Autumn by M27 Editions LLC

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AUTUMN by Pascale Beale Foreword by Clifford A. Wright

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AUTUMN

by Pascale Beale Foreword by Clifford A. Wright

Published

Olive Tree Publications Santa Barbara, California 93109 phone (805) 965-5112 fax (805) 965-3377 For cooking classes and merchandise: www.mckcuisine.com E-mail: info@mckcuisine.com A Menu For All Seasons 3: Autumn A Montecito Country Kitchen Cookbook by Pascale Beale-Groom Copyright 2009 by Olive Tree Publications Foreword Copyright 2009 by Clifford A. Wright All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from the author and publisher.

First Edition ISBN 0-9749603-6-5 Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2009933876 Design, Digital Production and Printing by Media 27, Inc., Santa Barbara, California www . m e d i a 27. c o m

Printed and bound in China

For EB from PB With Love î Ż

menu 1 contents 8 10 12 13

Foreword Introduction Creating a Menu The Essentials of Timing

autumn menus 14

menu 1 Caramelized Fig and Goat Cheese Tart Roasted Black Cod with Herb Nut Crust and African Yogurt Sauce Confit of Shallots Orange and Macadamia Nut Shortbread Grand Marnier Pots de Crème

menu 2 Wild Mushroom Soup with Herb ‘Cloud’ Roasted Shoulder of Lamb Stuffed with Spiced Couscous Pomegranate Salad Peach and Red Onion Chutney Saffron Poached Pears with Spicy Meringues

menu 3 Roasted Golden Beet and Watercress Salad with Cilantro-Chive Vinaigrette ‘Slow’ Pork Tenderloins with Apples and Prunes Celeriac Purée Espresso Semifreddo

menu 4 Pear Salad with Pecan and Roquefort Crumble Harvest Strudel Roasted Parsnips with Watercress Grape and Fig Flambé with Lemon-Lavender Crème Fraiche

menu 5 Roasted Butternut Squash and Pumpkin Soup Duck Tajine with Peaches and Dates Spinach and Toasted Almonds Golden Phyllo Apple and Pear Pie

menu 6 Salade des Vendengeurs Poached Halibut with Cardamom Sauce Little Potato, Lemon and Roasted Almond Salad Sauté of Broccoli Raab Pear and Ginger Cake

menu 7 Leek and Stilton Soup Lavender and Honey Roasted Cornish Hens with Pear Chutney Carrot Purée Butternut Squash, Apple and Proscuitto Sauté Tartes aux Pommes

menu 8 Porcini and Chanterelles Salad Roasted Filet Mignon with Tapenade of Fresh Herbs and Saint Agur Braised Endives Flourless Chocolate Cake with Banana Ice Cream

66 68 69 70 72

Soup Suppliers/Sources Conversion Table Index Acknowledgments

foreword

I n t h is w o n d e r fu l new book, Pascale Beale-Groom

uses her culture-driven cooking to introduce us to a season of autumnal tastes that find their inspiration in the Mediterranean. Cooks are often uncomfortable when their cuisine is described by others. Saying that their style of cooking is California-Italian or California-Mediterranean is not a critique, nor does it imply that their cuisine is derivative; it simply means that their cuisine is inspired by a particular culture. There is a transcendental nature to good cooking. It is said that when cooks rely on good ingredients, the whole becomes greater than its parts. However true, the ingredients themselves do not constitute the soul of the cooking. I believe the best cooking is culture-driven rather than ingredientdriven. What I mean by this is that when a cook is inspired to a manner of cooking that derives from a particular culture, his or her creation will likely respect that culture; whether the dish prepared is an old standard or a new recipe, their cooking is culture-driven. Ingredient-driven cooking on the other hand, is enamored with the food itself, rather than the cultural origin of the cuisine, or the cook. By simply reading Pascaleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inviting recipe for Roasted Black Cod with Herb Nut Crust, we can understand the meaning of culture-driven versus ingredient-driven. If this preparation was derived from an ingredient-driven culinary style, we would focus on what? The cod? The herbs? Hers is not ingredient-driven; it is culture-driven.

Inspired by the cuisine from a number of Mediterranean countries, none of her selections fail — instead, they prove superbly complementary, something accomplished only by a caring, as well as, competent cook. Pascale looks towards North Africa for her spice considerations and towards Provence for her use of fish, herbs, and nuts, and she does so with inate expertise. Pascale’s cooking is natural, unforced, and free flowing, showing her love of cooking, a love equalled by her terrific respect for culture and taste. Her Caramelized Fig and Goat Cheese Tart begs to be made; merely reading her recipe will drive you to the kitchen. Her suggested menus are sensible, do-able, and enticing. Her cooking schedule — the game plan for each recipe — will give you a quick overview of what you’re doing, and when. Then you go on to read that figs are, ‘succulent and voluptuous,’ and you immediately think to yourself, ‘indeed.’ At every step, as you read her instructions for the fig and goat cheese tart recipe, your mouth will water. When the onions are caramelized, when the butter is melted with the honey and the quartered figs are coated, when the puff pastry is brushed

Clifford A. Wright is the author of A MEDITERRANEAN FEAST, winner of the James Beard/KitchenAid Cookbook of the Year Award and the James Beard Award for the Best Writing on Food in 2000. He is the author of 13 other books.

with egg, when the egg and mozzarella mixture is spread and the rows of figs laid down, you know you are in the hands of a true master. This is a book filled with wonderful memories and good food, a book you can cook from with confidence and joy. As autumn descends and nights become chilly, your hearth will be warmed by the evocative and delicious culinary inspirations of Pascale Beale-Groom.

—CLIFFORD A. WRIGHT

Origins Dating from the 16th century, shortbread, a Scottish specialty, is a buttery, rich, crumbly biscuit. Its traditional proportions of one part sugar to two parts butter to three parts flour have varied little over time. There are regional specialities throughout the British Isles — in Ayeshire, for example, they add cream and egg yolks for added richness. Queen Victoria’s Balmoral version has salt in it. Originally an expensive treat (due to the cost of butter) it was reserved for special occasions such as Christmas and Hogmanay (Scottish New Year’s Eve).



menu 1

O r ange and M ac ada mia Nut Shor tbread

Shortbread was something of an institution in our house in London. Nothing could be better after coming in from a chilly autumn day to a hot cup of tea and some freshly baked shortbread. There are few children who can resist them and my son is no exception. He loves shortbread plain and simple. I now like slightly more exotic versions and created this to accompany the Grand Marnier Pots de Crème. Both are a treat. Makes 40 small square shortbreads 8 oz (2 sticks) butter 4 oz (just under 1/2 cup) sugar

Gr and M arnier Po t s de Crème

Zest of 1 large orange (you can use blood oranges when in season)

Serves 8 people

4 oz macadamia nuts — roughly chopped 12 oz (2 1/2 cups) flour 1

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

2 Place the butter in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed until soft and fluffy. Add in the sugar, and beat again until well combined, scraping down the sides of the mixing bowl occasionally. 3 Add in the orange zest, the nuts and half the flour, and mix together at slow speed. Add in the remaining flour and mix again until the dough has just come together. Remove the dough from the bowl and combine into a ball. 4 Lightly flour a counter top or clean work surface, and place the dough in the center. Gently roll out the dough until it is approximately 1/4-inch thick. Using a square, fluted cookie cutter, cut out the shortbread and place on a parchmentlined baking sheet.

2 1/2 cups cream 5 oz (2/3 cup less 1 tablespoon) super fine sugar

1/3 cup lemon juice 1/3 cup Grand Marnier Zest of 1 small orange

Pascale’s children, Alexandre and Olivia, making shortbread.

1 Place the cream and sugar in a small saucepan and stir constantly over medium heat until the mixture boils. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon juice and let stand for 5 minutes. Add in the Grand Marnier and orange zest and let stand a further 5 minutes. 2 Strain the cream though a piece of muslin or a fine mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding the solids. 3 Divide the mixture evenly amongst 8 small cups or ramekins, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or until the mixture has set.

5 Bake the shortbread for 45 minutes in the center of the oven. They should be a pale golden color. Place them on a wire rack to cool. They will keep for several days in a sealed container.

Pear Salad with Pecan and Roquefort Crumble Harvest Strudel

Roasted Parsnips with Watercress

Grape and Fig Flambé with Lavender-Lemon Crème Fraiche

Cooking Schedule

Pear Sal ad with Pec an and Ro quefor t Crumble

Starting 2 hours before you plan to eat your first course:

There are many archetypal combinations in cooking that pair salty and sweet items together: proscuitto and melon; and Stilton and port are but two examples. Pears with Roquefort are another classic version. Creamy, nutty, butter-like Roquefort is the perfect counterpart to the velvet, sweet textured pears, and, in this salad, the crumble adds another savory-sweet dimension.

• Prepare the pears for the salad (step 1) and set aside. • Prepare the parsnips. Roast 1 hour before you plan to eat the main course. • Prepare the pecan crumble for the salad. • Make the harvest strudel. Bake 20 minutes before you plan to eat the main course. • Make the lavender-lemon crème fraiche. • Prepare the grapes and figs and set aside. • Assemble the salad. • Finish the dessert after the main course.

Serves 8 people 4 pears, peeled, cored and cut in half Salt and Pepper 8 – 10 oz mache (Lamb’s lettuce), very thoroughly washed. Be careful of the grit. 2 tablespoons really good olive oil 2 teaspoons of apple cider vinegar Salt and ground pepper to taste 1 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and carefully cut each pear half into thin slices, starting from just below the stem end of the pear to the bottom i.e. not cutting all the way through as you want to be able to fan out each pear half. Set aside. Place each pear fan onto the parchment paper. Sprinkle with some coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. 2 In the bottom of a salad bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Place the serving utensils on top of the dressing. Add the mache on top of the serving utensils. Set aside. 3 When you are ready to serve the salad, remove the serving utensils letting the mache drop into the dressing and toss until well coated (the reason for this is that if you leave the mache in the

dressing for too long it becomes wilted and limp). Place a little of the mache in the center of each serving plate and place a pear half on top of the salad. Spoon 1/8 of the crumble mixture on the end of each pear and serve. For the Pecan and Roquefort Crumble: 1/2 lb pecans — roughly chopped 1/4 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon sweet paprika

8 oz Roquefort cheese, crumbled 1 In a small bowl combine the sugar, cinnamon, sweet paprika and salt. Set aside. 2 Place the pecans in a cast-iron pan or heavy-bottomed pan placed over low heat and dry ‘roast’ them. After 3 – 4 minutes add in the spiced sugar mixture, stir the nuts frequently and cook for a further 2 – 3 minutes. They are ready when you can smell them! Set aside to cool. 3 To make the crumble mixture, combine the pecans and the Roquefort and mix together in a small bowl.

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Origins One of the most famous cheeses in the world, Roquefort can only be made from the milk of the Lacaune ewe in France. Set in a limestone plateau where the land is wild and difficult to cultivate, a marvel of natural science takes place deep in the caves of Combalou, near the village of Roquefort-Sur-Soulzon. After the ewe’s milk has been heated in large vats, spores from the fungus Penicillium Roqueforti that occur naturally in the soil of the caves, are added, allowing the milk to coagulate into curds. The curds are then placed in cheese molds. Each container is then pierced with about 40 thin holes, allowing air to circulate in the cheese and forming its famous blue veins. The cheese then matures in the caves for 3 – 10 months and develops its creamy, nutty, salty flavor. 

menu 4

Harvest Strudel

Long a fan of traditional strudel, I began experimenting with different, savory versions. This one combines the earthiness of wild mushrooms with autumnal greens, all encased in the light, golden phyllo dough. It is a great dish for a dinner party and multiplies easily. Serves 8 people Olive oil 2 large onions — peeled, halved and thinly sliced 4 – 5 sprigs fresh thyme 1 lb spinach 1 lb Swiss chard — stalks trimmed and leaves roughly chopped 2 oz butter 1 1/2 lbs wild mushrooms — sliced Salt and pepper 10 sheets phyllo dough — thawed 4 oz butter — melted 1/2 bunch Italian Parsley — very finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2 Pour a little olive oil in a large sauté pan, placed over medium heat. Add in the onions and thyme and cook until golden brown. Spoon the onions into a small bowl and set aside. 3 Return the same pan to the heat; add in a little more olive oil and sauté the spinach and Swiss chard together, stirring frequently so that they are just wilted. Place the spinach and chard in a bowl and set aside. 4 Add 2 oz butter to the pan and return it once again to the heat. Add the mushroom slices and cook until just browned — about 3 – 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

5 Place the phyllo dough on a flat surface and cover with a slightly damp cloth. Place one sheet of the dough on a baking sheet and brush some of the melted butter over the dough. Sprinkle some of the finely-chopped parsley over the dough. Place a second sheet on top of the first and brush again with butter and sprinkle again with the parsley. Repeat with three more sheets. Brush the top layer of dough with butter too. 6 Turn the baking sheet so that the longest side is in front of you. Spoon half of the sautéed onions onto the dough so that they cover one-third of the phyllo (lengthwise). 7 Squeeze any excess liquid from the spinach and spoon half of the spinach/ chard mixture over the onions. Spoon half of the mushroom mixture on top of the spinach. Carefully roll up the dough to create the strudel. Make a second strudel in the same manner. Place the second one along side the first and brush the top of each strudel with a little more melted butter. Place the baking tray in the middle of the oven. 8 Bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and slice each strudel into four pieces. Place each piece onto a warmed dinner plate.

th e key:

The trick with phyllo dough is to work quickly and not let the dough dry out — hence the damp cloth. Make sure you cover the dough each time you remove a sheet.

Origins Strudel is the name for the famous Viennese pastry of fine dough, rolled-up and filled with fruit and spices. It is thought that the pastry was inspired by Baklava and other similar Balkan dishes. There are some who argue that it was created by a Hungarian, although the oldest known written recipe for strudel dates from 1696 and can be found in Vienna. The actual word ‘strudel’ is German and means ‘whirlpool’ or ‘eddy’ — a reflection of the patterns in the nearby Danube perhaps, or more likely, the pattern made by the rolled up dough. 

Roasted Parsnips with Watercress Serves 8 people 2 lbs parsnips — peeled, quartered lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces Olive oil Salt Pepper 2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence 2 bunches watercress — cleaned and stems removed

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2 Pour some olive oil into a roasting pan and add the parsnips on top. Sprinkle with some salt, pepper and Herbes de Provence and toss to coat with the olive oil. 3 Bake in the oven for 45 minutes, turning the vegetables once in awhile. 4 Remove the parsnips from the oven and place them in a large salad bowl. Add the crème fraiche to the bowl and toss to coat. Add in the watercress and toss to combine. Serve immediately.

1 tablespoon crème fraiche 37

Origins

Crème fraiche is a type of thick soured cream that originated in Normandy, the dairy producing region of France. It is less sour than American sour cream and has a slightly nutty, tangy flavor. It is widely used in traditional French cooking. My grandmother, who came from this region, used it in many of her dishes, including a sensational Lapin à la Moutarde — Rabbit in Mustard Sauce. 

menu 4

Gr ape and Fig Fl a mbé with Lemon - L avender Crème Fr aiche

Caramelized grapes and figs are delicious. Set alight with Calvados or Grappa they are somewhat extravagant, but a little extravagance is a good thing once in awhile. Add the lemon-lavender crème fraiche and you have a luscious dessert which is easy to make and will always look spectacular when you flambé the fruit. Serves 8 people 1 oz butter

For the Crème Fraiche:

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

4 oz crème fraiche

1 lb grapes — de-stemmed 8 figs — cut in half 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup Grappa or Calvados 1 Place the butter in a large skillet or wok placed over medium heat. Once the butter is foaming add in the sugar and stir until melted. Add in the figs, grapes and salt and toss to coat. Cook for 3 – 4 minutes so that all the fruit are golden and beginning to render their juices.

2 oz mascarpone Zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon lavender flowers — roughly chopped 1 teaspoon honey 1 Place all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk together well. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

2 Add in the Grappa or Calvados and, if using a gas stove, slightly tilt the pan so that the juices are set alight (if using an electric or induction stove, you will have to ignite the alcohol with a match). Be careful as you do this. Let the flames subside completely and then spoon onto dessert plates. Serve with the LemonLavender Crème Fraiche.

Roasted Butternut Squash and Pumpkin Soup Duck Tajine with Peaches and Dates Spinach and Toasted Almonds Golden Phyllo Apple and Pear Pie

Cooking Schedule

Roasted But ternut S quash and Pumpkin S oup

Starting 2 hours before you plan to eat your first course:

I adore this soup. The aroma when the butternut squash and pumpkin are roasting is sweet and tantalizing. The color is beautiful and the taste is rich and evocative of everything to do with the flavors of the season.

• Bake the squash and pumpkin (step 1). This can be done well ahead of time. • Prep and cook the duck (step 1 and 2). This can also be done well ahead of time. • Prepare the dessert but do not put in the oven until the duck has come out. • Finish the soup. • Finish the tajine. • Make the spinach.

Serves 8 people 1 medium butternut squash — halved and seeded 1 small pumpkin — halved and seeded 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large onion — thinly sliced 5 cups vegetable stock (see page 66) Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

2 Brush a little olive oil on a baking sheet and place the squash and pumpkin cut-side down. Bake until tender, about 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, scoop the pulp out of the shell. You should have about 6 – 7 cups of pulp. Set aside. 3 Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the sliced onions and cook until soft and translucent, about 8 – 10 minutes. 4 Add the squash and pumpkin pulp and vegetable stock and simmer for 15 minutes. 5 Use an immersion blender to purée the soup or purée it in a blender or food processor and then strain through a medium strainer into a warmed soup tureen. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Origins Butternut squash is a type of winter squash. Sweet and nutty in flavor it is similar to a pumpkin. Its orange colored pulp becomes more pronounced as it ripens. Originating in Mexico, the ancient Indians called it ‘the apple of God’ as the seeds were believed to increase fertility. It was one of the first foods cultivated by Native Americans and the Inca. It was only introduced to Europe during the 16th century. 

Origins

Tajine is both the name of a dish and the actual cooking vessel. It comes from Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, although the word has a different meaning in each country. The tajine pot, which is usually made of heavy clay, has a shallow base in which the cooking ingredients sit, and a conical close-fitting lid which allows the dish to remain moist and fragrant. A tajine in Morocco is a slow-cooked stew which usually combines chicken or lamb, spices and fruit such as dates, figs and nuts. In Tunisia a tajine is a dish with eggs that resembles a frittata and is cooked in a shallow earthenware dish. These types of dishes have been cooked for centuries in North Africa. The word tajine comes from the Greek taganon, meaning frying pan. î Ż

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D uck Ta jine with Peaches and Dates

This entire menu is a treat for one of the first really cold crisp days of autumn. We love to take long walks on blustery days, and this is a delicious, heart-warming way to unwind. The slowly-cooked duck pairs well with the succulent and juicy peaches. The dates are rich with flavor, and the spices conjure up dishes that echo the tastes of the orient. Serves 8 people 8 duck legs Olive oil 4 yellow onions — peeled, halved and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons Ras al Hanout 6 oz golden or flame raisins 8 oz dates — cut into small pieces 8 peaches — sliced Pepper Coarse sea salt 1

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

6 Once the duck is ready, remove it from the roasting pan and remove all the meat from the bones. Place the duck pieces in the peach and onion mixture, carefully combining all the ingredients so as not to break the peach slices. Keep warm until ready to serve.

Spinach and Toasted A l monds Serves 8 people 4 oz sliced almonds or whole Marcona almonds

2 Place all the duck legs in a roasting pan and cook for 90 minutes. The duck will be golden brown and the meat will fall off the bones.

1 lb baby spinach — washed and trimmed of any large stalks

3 Whilst the duck is cooking, prepare the onions and peaches.

Pepper

4 Pour a little olive oil into a dutch oven or a tajine and add in the onion slices and cook over medium low heat for 5 minutes. (If you are cooking in the tajine, place it over low heat – unless it is a cast iron model.) Add in the Ras al Hanout, some salt and pepper and the golden raisins and cook covered, over low heat, for a further 15 – 20 minutes. 5 Stir in the date pieces and cook covered for 5 minutes more. Add the sliced peaches to this mixture and cook for a few minutes over low heat. Remove from the heat and set aside, leaving the mixture in the dutch oven/tajine with the lid on until the duck is ready.

Olive oil 1 teaspoon butter

1 Place the almonds in a heavybottomed pan set at medium heat. Toast the almonds until you can just smell them and they are lightly browned. This takes just a few minutes. Set aside. 2 Just before serving your spinach dish, heat a little olive oil and add the butter to a large frying pan or wok. Add the spinach. Cook briefly, the leaves should be wilted, and then add in the almonds and stir well to combine. Add some pepper to taste and serve alongside the tajine.

menu 5

Golden Phy llo A pple and Pear Pie

I adore dishes with phyllo dough and have long been inspired by Greek food. When we lived in Los Angeles, we spent many a Sunday lunch at a Greek restaurant owned by our lovely friend, Sofi, savoring the dishes of the Aegean. She made heavenly puddings such as ‘glactoboureko’ and ‘bougatsa.’ I was hooked, and as I started to explore the dishes of the islands I came across an apple pie called ‘milopita.’ From the traditional base I made this version that has pears added in it, and true to my Gallic origins I also added in some Grand Marnier. Serves 8 people 4 – 5 apples — peeled, cored and thinly sliced 3 – 4 pears — peeled, cored and thinly sliced Ground cinnamon 1 package phyllo dough — thawed 4 oz butter 1 cup sugar Grand Marnier 1

Preheat oven to 400 degrees

2 In a small saucepan, melt the butter and set aside. 3 Place the phyllo dough on a flat surface and cover with a slightly damp cloth. Place one sheet of the phyllo dough onto a large baking sheet and brush lightly with the melted butter. Sprinkle one tablespoon of sugar evenly over the dough and then drizzle a little of the Grand Marnier over that. Repeat this four more times, giving you a total of 5 layers of phyllo dough.

4 In a large bowl toss the apples, pears, cinnamon, two tablespoons of sugar and a good drizzle of Grand Marnier and mix well. Place all the fruit in the middle of the dough and form the fruit into a large round dome. 5 Cover the fruit with one layer of phyllo dough and brush lightly with some of the melted butter. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of sugar over the dough and then drizzle a little Grand Marnier over that. Repeat another 6 times, giving you a total of 7 layers of phyllo dough. Roll up the edges of the dough towards the fruit all the way around the dome. The finished cake will look like a domed hat with a thick rolled rim. Brush the top layer of the dough with a little of the melted butter and sprinkle with a little sugar. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Serve Hot. note: This is very good served with vanilla ice cream.

th e key:

The trick with phyllo dough is to work quickly and not let the dough dry out — hence the damp cloth. Make sure you cover the dough each time you remove a sheet.

menu 1

Salade des Vendengeurs Poached Halibut with Cardamom Sauce Little Potato, Lemon and Roasted Almond Salad Sauté of Broccoli Raab Pear and Ginger Cake

Cooking Schedule

Sal ade D es Vendengeurs The Grape Harvesters Salad

Starting 6 hours before you plan to eat your first course:

I have great memories of the ‘Vendanges’ (the grape harvest) in the South of France. Our house was surrounded by vineyards, and during the harvest the fields would come alive with a sea of people carefully picking grapes. There is something magical that occurs every year at this time with nature revealing its abundance in perfect synchronicity. This salad, with its origins in Provence, is made up of fresh, wild greens picked in the fields or alongside the vineyards. I added grapes to it as a tribute to the harvest itself. It makes a great lunch by itself, too.

• Freeze the banana slices. Starting 2 hours before you plan to eat your first course: • Make the banana ice cream. • Make the cake. • Prepare the poaching broth. • Make the sauce for the fish. • Prepare the broccoli raab but do not cook it. • Make the salad but only toss when you are ready to serve. • Put the fish in the poacher as you sit down to eat your first course. • Cook the broccoli raab between the first and second course.

Serves 8 people 1 1/2 lbs mixed greens, watercress, chicory and dandelion

1 Place all the greens in a large salad bowl and sprinkle with some pepper.

Freshly ground pepper

2 Sauté the pancetta in a large skillet until it is crispy. Pour the pancetta and the rendered fat onto the mixed greens. Pour the vinegar into the same pan so that it is warm and pour it over the mixed greens.

5 slices pancetta — cut into strips 3 tablespoons wine, apple bouquet or fig balsamic vinegar 5 slices proscuitto or thin smoked country ham cut into thin strips 1 tablespoon minced chives 1 tablespoon minced tarragon 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1 tablespoon minced mint 8 oz plain goat cheese — crumbled 8 oz grapes — de-stemmed and halved

3 Add all the remaining ingredients and toss the salad. Serve as soon as possible (otherwise the greens will be soggy). Serve with crusty fresh bread.

Origins The vendange are the annual grape harvests. They have taken place for centuries and have, until the advent of mechanization, usually meant the hand-harvesting of the grape crop (the term is also used for other fruit in France). The word stems from the Latin ‘Vindamiare’ — literally, to gather grapes. The vendange are hard work. Pickers are often migratory and come annually to harvest for certain growers who used to feed and house their crews during the harvest. 

menu 6

Poached Halibut with C arda mom Sauce

This dish is all about nuts. I love almonds and have a penchant for Thai peanut sauce, and there are elements of both here. The cardamom adds a sweet flavor to the dish. The lemon in the potato and almond salad adds an intriguing aspect to the dish and, in turn, complements the poached halibut. Serves 8 people For the fish:

For the cardamom sauce:

3 cups water

2 cups poaching liquid (from the fish recipe)

1 leek — carefully washed and cut into one inch pieces 2 carrots — peeled and chopped 2 fennel fronds — cut into pieces

Origins Cardamom is an aromatic plant from the Malabar region of India. It is used widely in Asian and Scandinavian cooking. The small paper-like pale green pods (they are sometimes bleached white) contain tiny black seeds. These are normally dried and used as a spice. The flavor is reminiscent of eucalyptus and citrus. Only a little at a time needs to be used, a good thing as it is the third most expensive spice after saffron and vanilla. The spice is part of the ginger family and has been part of India’s spice trade for more than 1,000 years. 

2 teaspoons cardamom pods 2 tablespoons peanut butter 1/4 cup crème fraiche

1 small bunch parsley — chopped

Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt 2 1/2 lbs filet halibut

Coarse sea salt

1 Place all the ingredients for the poaching liquid in a saucepan and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain into a large bowl and let cool. Set aside 2 cups of the poaching liquid for the sauce.

1 Using the flat side of a knife blade, press down on the cardamom pods until they crack open slightly. Dry roast the pods in a heavy-bottomed saucepan placed over medium heat for 3 – 4 minutes. Add in the poaching liquid and gently simmer for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to very low.

2 Place the halibut in a fish poacher and pour the cooled poaching liquid over the fish. (Larger fish need to be started in a cold liquid so that the heat will penetrate the fish slowly and it will cook evenly.) Bring to a strong simmer. 3 Cook for 10 minutes per inch of thickness of the fish. It will need approximately 15 – 18 minutes to cook.

Pepper

2 Whisk in the peanut butter, crème fraiche, lemon juice and zest. If the sauce is too thick add in a little more of the poaching liquid, if too thin, add in a little more peanut butter. Season with salt and pepper. 3 Strain though a fine meshed sieve into a medium-sized bowl. To serve: 1 Carefully remove the fish from the poacher. Cut the filet into 8 pieces. Place some of the broccoli raab mixture in the center of each warmed dinner plate. Place a piece of the poached fish on top of the broccoli raab and spoon the cardamom nut sauce over the top. Serve with the potato almond salad.

Origins Curiously, broccoli raab is not actually broccoli but is related to the turnip. It has a peppery flavor with varieties being more pungent than others depending on their country of origin. Chinese varieties are not as strong as the Italian. The vegetable is very popular in Italian, Portuguese and Chinese cuisines. 

Lit tle Po tato, Lemon and Roasted A l mond Sal ad Serves 8 people 2 lemons — very thinly sliced 2 lbs small potatoes — yellow, purple, red or fingerlings or a mixture of all of them 4 oz sliced almonds — dry roasted in a heavy-bottomed skillet until golden brown 1 tablespoon mustard 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon Jerez vinegar 1 bunch chives — finely chopped Salt and pepper

1 Place the thinly-sliced lemon on a plate and sprinkle with a little salt. Set aside for 30 minutes and then rinse out the salt. Pat dry and then cut into small strips. 2 Place the potatoes in a steamer and cook until just done. Remove from the steamer and slice into 1/2-inch thick disks. Set aside. 3 Place the mustard in a large salad bowl. Pour in the olive oil and whisk vigorously until the vinaigrette resembles a mayonnaise. Add in the vinegar and stir to combine. Place the serving utensils over the vinaigrette. 4 Add in the almonds, the cooked potatoes, the sliced lemon and the chopped chives. When you are ready to serve the salad, remove the serving utensils and toss the salad.

Sauté of B ro ccoli R a ab Serves 8 people Olive oil 1 lb broccoli raab (or rapini) — rinsed and roughly sliced 4 plum tomatoes — diced Coarse sea salt Black pepper 1 Pour a little olive oil into a large shallow pan placed over medium heat. Add in the broccoli raab and tomatoes and sauté for 4 – 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

menu 6

Pear and Ginger C ake

This cake came about as I had a plethora of pears in my kitchen. I made pear chutney, poached pears and still had a few left over, ripening away on the counter. It is moist and rich in flavor but not heavy. The pears add texture and flavor, and the cake looks enticing. It is also delicious with a cup of tea in the afternoon or, come to think of it, with a cup of coffee in the morning. Serves 8 people For the pears: 3 firm ripe pears — peeled and cut in eighths 2 tablespoons butter Once in the pan, arrange the pears into the spiral pattern on top of the parchment paper.

1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 Melt the butter and sugar in a large pan placed over medium-high heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the pears and cook for 10 minutes turning them carefully once or twice. (You want the pear slices to retain their shape — if they are very ripe, reduce the cooking time by 5 minutes.) Set aside. For the cake: 10 oz butter (room temperature)

th e key:

To get a completely smooth batter, take the time to gently fold in the egg whites until they are completely incorporated.

10 oz (2 cups) packed light brown sugar 8 oz (1 2/3 cups) unbleached flour 2 tablespoons ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon clove powder 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 4 or 5 twists of freshly-ground black pepper 2-inch piece fresh ginger — peeled and finely chopped 1 oz crystallized ginger — finely chopped 5 large eggs — separated, egg yolks lightly beaten in a small bowl

1 Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 10-inch cake tin with a removable bottom with parchment paper and set aside. 2 Place the butter and sugar in a large saucepan placed over medium heat. Stir until completely melted. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. 3 In a large bowl, mix together the flour, ground ginger, clove powder, cinnamon, fresh and crystallized ginger, baking powder, salt and pepper. Carefully fold the flour mixture into the melted butter and sugar. 4 Stir the egg yolks into the batter until well incorporated. 5 In a separate bowl beat the egg whites to stiff peaks and then gently fold them into the batter. 6 Slide the pear slices into the prepared cake tin and arrange into a spiral pattern in the bottom of the tin. Carefully pour the batter over the pears so that they are completely covered, smoothing the top of the batter. 7 Bake for 30 minutes. A skewer or knife inserted into the center of the cake should come out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before removing the outside of the cake tin. Carefully invert the cake onto a serving platter and slowly remove the parchment paper and the bottom of the cake tin.

Origins Originating in the Caucasus, pears have been successfully cultivated in temperate climates for millennia. The poet Homer considered pears to be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;a gift from the gods.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; The Romans were so enamored of them they developed more than 50 varieties, leaving detailed botanical instructions for their cultivation that survived for centuries. Seventeenth century European botanists used this information during the rapid expansion of the pear trade and created hundreds of additional varieties. They stem from the rose family, Rosaceae, as do apples. There are now more than 2,500 types of pears, most eaten as fresh fruit, but some are distilled to create liqueurs such as Poire Williams. î Ż 51

menu 7

L avender and H one y Roasted Cornish H ens

Thanksgiving is a holiday that I happily adopted when I moved to California, and we roasted stuffed turkeys as tradition warrants. Over the last few years, however, I have tried some new dishes and found that Cornish hens — stuffed or otherwise — are a great substitute for a huge turkey, particularly if you can find organically raised hens. We are fortunate to have at our local farmers’ market a lady who has just that. They are flavorful, succulent and moist. Glazed with the honey and lavender, they are fragrant and golden brown when cooked. Served with the carrot purée, the chutney and the butternut squash sauté, you have the makings of a scrumptious meal. Serves 8 people Olive oil

4 Cornish hens — rinsed in cold water and patted dry 1/3 cup honey — orange blossom or

2 Pour a little olive oil into a roasting pan that is large enough to hold all four Cornish hens. Place the hens in the pan.

wildflower works well

2 tablespoons water 2 teaspoons fresh lavender flowers 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary Salt Pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

3 Place all the remaining ingredients into a small saucepan over low heat. Stir to combine as the honey melts. You will have fragrant syrup. Using a pastry brush or a spoon, cover the 4 hens with the syrup. 4 Bake the Cornish hens in the center of the oven for 1 hour, turning them once or twice so that they are golden brown on every side. 5 Remove from the oven and set aside for 10 minutes before carving. Cut each hen in half and place one half on each dinner plate. Serve with the carrot purée, the chutney and the butternut squash.

menu 7

Tar te aux Pommes

Whereas I make a new soup and have tinkered with the main course for Thanksgiving annually, there is one dish I make without fail at the request of my godson Charlie and his brother William with whom we have shared this holiday since the year he was born. It is a dessert I learned to make with my mother when I was little, and I have loved it ever since. It is filled to the brim with apples and is, to me, the epitome of an autumnal dessert. Serves 8 people For the pastry:

6 oz plus 1 tablespoon (1 1/3 cup) unbleached all purpose flour 4 oz (1 cup + 1 tablespoon) almond meal or almond flour 6 oz slightly softened butter — cut up into small pieces. 1 large egg Pinch of salt 1

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2 Butter a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. 3 Place all the ingredients into a food processor and use repeated pulses until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then use longer pulses until the dough forms a ball in the bowl of the food processor. 4 Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes before rolling out. 5 Place the unwrapped dough on a lightly floured work surface. Roll the dough out to a 1/3-inch thickness. Line the tart pan with the dough, trimming any excess from the edges.

For the apples: 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons Calvados 1/3 cup apricot jam 8 large apples (Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Gala — a mixture is also fine) peeled, quartered and cut into thin even slices. 1 Place the sugar, Calvados and the jam into a small saucepan placed over low heat. Stir the mixture until all the ingredients have melted together and you have a thick glaze. Set aside. 2 Arrange the apple slices, standing upright, running perpendicular to the outside edge of the whole tart. Once the first round is complete, create a second round inside the first and so on until the entire dough is covered with the apples. You should have three concentric rounds of apple slices. 3 Using a pastry brush, coat all of the apples with the apricot glaze. 4 Bake for 25 minutes or until the dough is golden brown.

Origins Apples are the most widely-cultivated fruit in the world. They originated in Asia Minor and grew wild in Europe in pre-historic times. From Greek mythology — Zeus and his bride Hera are said to have received a tree with golden apples on their wedding day — to great classic poets such as Homer who wrote of apples in The Odyssey in 800 BC, the fruit has been part of the world’s cultural and gastronomical heritage. The ancient Greeks, Romans and Persians all cultivated, grafted and wrote about apples. Shakespeare spoke of them in his plays, and Sir Isaac Newton, inspired by watching falling apples, discovered the laws of gravity. Certain cultivars are closely associated with their countries of origin, Cox’s Orange Pippins and Russets in the UK for example and Golden Delicious in the US. Granny Smiths originated in Australia, McIntosh in Canada and Reinettes are a French specialty. One of the most scented apples known as Calville Blanche d’Hivers, a rare variety form Normandy that dates back to the 1500s, is said to be the most delectable of all. 

menu 8

Roasted Filet M ignon with Tapenade of Fresh Herbs and Saint Agur

There is something wonderful about fresh herbs, and in this dish, an abundance of freshly-chopped herbs encase the filet mignon. It creates a fragrant and visually refreshing dish. Try the spiral cut (it is not too difficult to do) and you will be thrilled with the results. Serves 8 people For the herb tapenade:

For the filet mignon:

2 long stems rosemary — leaves removed, stems discarded

1 whole filet mignon — if you are not going to do the spiral cut, ask your butcher to butterfly it and remove the rail. Ask for the filet to be left untied.

8 – 10 stems thyme — leaves removed, stems discarded 1 bunch chives — finely chopped 1/2 bunch oregano — leaves removed, stems discarded

1 bunch parsley — leaves removed, stems discarded 2 shallots — peeled and chopped Zest of 1 lemon 1/3 cup olive oil 1. Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse for a few seconds each time, until you have a coarse paste — you may need to scrape down the sides once or twice. Set aside.

6 oz Saint Agur (or another creamy blue cheese such as Roquefort) Olive oil 1

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2 Rinse, pat dry and spiral cut the filet mignon (see illustrations on the left). 3 Lay the cut filet mignon flat on a clean work surface. Cover the exposed surface with half of the herb tapenade and all the crumbled Saint Agur. Roll up the filet mignon as tightly as possible. 4 Using kitchen twine, tie the filet up at regular intervals (not more than 2 inches apart). Cover the whole of the outside of the filet with the remaining tapenade. 5 Pour a little olive oil into the bottom of a roasting pan that is just larger than your roast. Place the filet in the roasting pan.

Preparing the spiral cut: Make a cut along the filet lengthwise about half an inch from the bottom. Roll open the filet a little, then cut the length of the filet again. Keep repeating this, unrolling the filet a little with each cut. Take your time to ensure that you have an even thickness throughout.

6 Roast for 30 – 35 minutes for medium-rare meat. Do not overcook this type of meat; it will not taste as good. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 – 10 minutes before slicing. 7 Serve on warm plates with the endives.

B r aised Endives Serves 8 people 8 Belgian endives — halved Olive oil Butter Salt and pepper 1 Trim the ends off the endives and cut them lengthwise in half. Peel away the outer leaves.

2 In a large shallow saucepan (large enough to hold all the endive halves in one layer) add a little olive oil and a large knob of butter. Heat until sizzling. Place each of the endive halves in the pan and brown on both sides — approximately 3 –4 minutes each side. 3 Once browned, add salt and pepper and enough water to come 1/3 of the way up the side of the endives. Reduce heat and cook slowly for 15 – 20 minutes covered, turning occasionally. Serve alongside the filet mignon. 63

index

African Yogurt Sauce 16 Apples butternut squash and proscuitto sauté with 57 golden phyllo pear pie with 44 origins 59 ‘Slow’ pork tenderloins with prunes and 31 tarte 58

Banana Ice Cream 64 Beets origins 29 roasted golden, with watercress salad 28

Black Cod roasted with herb nut crust 16 Braised Endives 63 Broccoli Raab origins 49 sauté of 49

Butternut Squash origins 41 roasted, with pumpkin soup 40 sauté with apple and proscuitto 57

Butternut Squash, Apple and Proscuitto Sauté 57

Cakes flourless chocolate 64 pear and ginger 50

Caramelized Fig and Goat Cheese Tart 14 Cardamom origins 48 sauce 48 Carrots purée 57

Celeriac purée 31 soup with pancetta and crème fraiche 67 Celeriac Purée 31 Celeriac Soup with Pancetta and Crème Fraiche 67 Chocolate flourless cake 64 origins 65

Chutney peach and red onion 24 pear 57 origins 56

Cilantro African yogurt sauce with 16 chive vinaigrette with 28 herb nut crust with 16

Cilantro-Chive Vinaigrette 28 Confit of Shallots 17 Conversion Table 69 Cornish Hens lavender and honey roasted 54 Courgettes (zucchini) Soup 67 Couscous spiced, with stuffed shoulder of lamb 23 Cream espresso semifreddo 32 herb ‘cloud’ 21 pots de crème 19

Crème Fraiche celeriac soup with pancetta and 67 lemon-lavender 39 origins 38

Dates with peaches in duck tajine 43

Duck Tajine with Peaches and Dates 43

Endives braised 63

Espresso origins 33 semifreddo 32

Espresso Semifreddo 32

Figs caramelized, goat cheese tart with 14 flambé with grapes and lemonlavender crème fraiche 39 origins 15

Filet Mignon roasted with tapenade of fresh herbs and Saint Agur 62 Fish poached halibut with a cardamom sauce 48 roasted black cod with herb nut crust 16 Flourless Chocolate Cake 64

Ginger pear cake with 50

Goat Cheese tart with caramelized figs 14

Golden Phyllo Apple and Pear Pie 44 Grand Marnier pots de crème with 19

Grand Marnier Pots de Crème 19 Grape and Fig Flambé with LemonLavender Crème Fraiche 39 Grapes flambé with figs and lemon-lavender crème fraiche 39

Halibut poached with cardamom sauce 48

Harvest Strudel 36 Herbs ‘cloud’ 21 roasted black cod with nut crust 16 tapenade of 62

Honey roasted Cornish hens with lavender and 54

Ice Cream banana 64

Lamb stuffed shoulder of, with spiced couscous 23

Lavender crème fraiche with lemon and 39 honey roasted Cornish hens with 54 Lavender and Honey Roasted Cornish Hens with Pear Chutney 54 Leeks soup with stilton 52 Leek and Stilton Soup 52 Little Potato, Lemon and Roasted Almond Salad 49

Meringues spicy 27

Mushrooms harvest strudel with 36 origins 61 salad with porcini and chanterelles 60 soup with wild mushrooms 20

index

Nuts herb nut crust, with roasted black cod 16 little potato, lemon and roasted almond salad 49 orange and macadamia nut shortbread 19 pecan and Roquefort crumble 34 spinach with toasted almonds 43

Orange macadamia nut shortbread with 19 Orange and Macadamia Nut Shortbread 19

Parsnips roasted with watercress 37

Peaches duck tajine with dates and 43 red onion chutney with 24

Peach and Red Onion Chutney 24 Pears cake with ginger and 50 chutney 57 golden phyllo apple pie with 44 origins 51 poached with saffron 27 salad with pecan and Roquefort crumble 34

Pear Chutney 57 Pear and Ginger Cake 50 Pear Salad with Pecan and Roquefort Crumble 34 Poached Halibut with Cardamom Sauce 48 Pomegranates origins 25 salad with 24

Pomegranate Salad 24 Pork tenderloins with apples and prunes 31 Potatoes salad with lemon and roasted almonds 49 Pots de Crème Grand Marnier 19

Porcini and Chanterelles Salad 60 Proscuitto butternut squash and apple sauté with 57

Prunes pork tenderloins with apples and 31

Pumpkin roasted with butternut squash soup 40 Purées carrot 57 celeriac 31

Roasted Black Cod with Herb Nut Crust 16 Roasted Butternut Squash and Pumpkin Soup 40 Roasted Filet Mignon with Tapenade of Fresh Herbs and Saint Agur 62 Roasted Golden Beet and Watercress Salad with Cilantro-Chive Vinaigrette 28 Roasted Parsnips with Watercress 37 Roasted Shoulder of Lamb Stuffed with Spiced Couscous 23 Roquefort crumble with pecans 34 origins 35

Saffron poached pears with 27

Saffron Poached Pears 27 Salad ‘des vendengeurs’ 46 little potato, lemon and toasted almond 49 pear with a pecan and Roquefort crumble 34 pomegranate 24 porcini and chanterelles 60 roasted golden beet and watercress 28 ‘Salade des Vendengeurs’ 46 Sauces African yogurt 16 cardamom 48 Sauté of Broccoli Raab 49 Semifreddo espresso 32 Shallots confit of 17

Shortbread orange and macadamia nut 19 origins 18

‘Slow’ Pork Tenderloins with Apples and Prunes 31 ‘Slow Food’ Movement origins 30

Soup celeriac with pancetta and crème fraiche 67 courgettes (zucchini) 67 leek and stilton 52 roasted butternut squash and pumpkin 40 wild mushroom with herb ‘cloud’ 20 Spicy Meringues 27 Spinach harvest strudel with 36 toasted almonds with 43

Spinach and Toasted Almonds 43 Stock vegetable 66 Stilton leek soup with 52 origins 53 Strudel harvest 36 origins 37

Suppliers/Sources 68

Tajine duck with peaches and dates 43 origins 42 Tapenade fresh herb with Saint Agur 62

Tarts apple 58 caramelized fig and goat cheese 14 Tarte aux Pommes 58

Vendanges origins 47 ‘salade des vendengeurs’ 46 Vegetable Stock 66 Vinaigrette cilantro-chive 28 for pomegranate salad 24

Watercress roasted golden beets salad with 28 roasted parsnips with 37 Wild Mushroom Soup with Herb ‘Cloud’ 20

Yogurt African sauce 16