Winter by M27 Editions LLC

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WINTER by Pascale Beale Foreword by Tracey Ryder

M E N U

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WINTER

by Pascale Beale Foreword by Tracey Ryder

Published

M27 Editions LLC

3030 State Street Santa Barbara, California 93105 phone (805) 563-0099 fax (805) 563-2070 email publish@m27editions.com www.m27editions.com For cooking classes and merchandise: www.mckcuisine.com email info@mckcuisine.com A Menu For All Seasons 4: Winter A Montecito Country Kitchen Cookbook by Pascale Beale Copyright 2011 by Pascale Beale Foreword Copyright 2011 by Tracey Ryder All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from the author and publisher.

First Edition ISBN 978-0-9659227-3-9 Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2011920715 Design and Production by Media 27, Inc., Santa Barbara, California www . m e d i a 27. c o m

Printed and bound in China

For My Parents with Love and Gratitude î Ż

menu 1 contents

8 10 12 13

Foreword Introduction Creating a Menu The Essentials of Timing

winter menus 14

menu 1 Endive, Apple and Roquefort Salad with a Warm Nut Vinaigrette Monique’s Succulent Beef Shank Winter Stew Pan Roasted Pears with Vanilla and Cloves

menu 2 Smoked Trout Salad Herb Stuffed Roast Chicken with Roasted Root Vegetables Chocolate Pots de Crème with Espresso Salt Meringues

menu 3 Roasted Parsnip and Cumin Soup with Sautéed Chanterelles Whole Baked Fish in a Salt Crust Israeli Herb Couscous with Pine Nuts and Golden Shallots Tea-Infused Winter Fruit with Marmalade Shortbread

menu 4 Watercress Salad with a Sauté of Truffle Potatoes Lamb Tagine with Winter Vegetables in a Saffron Broth Blood Orange and Meyer Lemon Tart

menu 5 Golden Cauliflower Curry Soup Salmon Coulibiac with a Herb and Chive Coulis Lemon Thyme Financiers, Cognac Ice Cream and Olivia’s Dark Chocolates with Sel de Mer

menu 6 Caramelized Shallots, Goat Cheese and Smoked Salmon Tartlets Wild Mushroom Ragout Apple and Pear Spice Layer Cake with Meyer Lemon Cream

menu 7 Home-Cured Salmon Gravlax with Dill Crème Fraiche and a Micro-Greens Salad Duck Confit Red Onion and Pomegranate Relish Persimmon Salad Crystalized Ginger Crème Brulée

menu 8 Winter Citrus Salad Halibut Za’atar with Red Quinoa Herb Salad Apple Crumble

68 69 70 72

Suppliers/Sources Conversion Table Index Acknowledgments

foreword

I ’ll be t h e f i r st to a d m it that I have one of the best jobs in America. I have the extreme good fortune of being able to access a never-ending resource of information about our nation’s most talented chefs, winemakers, brewers, foragers, fishers, and food producers. And while my job does require that I spend most days in an office in front of a computer, it also affords dozens of opportunities each year for taking trips and eating the fresh, seasonal, local specialties from each of the regions in which we publish. Of the hundreds of places visited and the tens of hundreds of chefs I’ve encountered, one of the most memorable standouts is Pascale Beale. The recipes in Winter, the fourth in her seasonal series of cookbooks, offer exquisitely fresh takes on classics such as Herb Stuffed Roast Chicken and Lamb Tagine, as well as entirely new surprises such as Wild Mushroom Ragout and Marmalade Shortbread. All organized into menus that make you want to run to the nearest farmers market, then rush home to start cooking, this collection is a constant reminder of how vibrant and fulfilling the seasonal dishes of winter can truly be. While infused with French and Mediterranean flavors, this collection, at its core however, is a reflection of all that is everpresent in authentic California cuisine.

In addition to gathering the recipes into useful menus that highlight the nuances of the winter season, which then become easily organized blueprints for entertaining, I find the “Origins,” installments especially appealing. Following the end of each menu, Pascale has taken the time to enlighten her readers on the history of one of the primary ingredients used — from smoked fish, to endive, to parsnips — these mini-histories are precious jewels that allow the reader a glimpse into knowing where their food really comes from. As an avid cookbook collector with nearly 2,000 titles clogging my shelves — many of which providing only one or two recipes that are regularly used — it is a true delight to find a book so full of recipes I find myself returning to over and over again. Already a dedicated fan of Pascale’s Spring, Summer, and Autumn, books, which are regularly used as tools for entertaining in my own

Tracey Ryder is cofounder of Edible Communities — a network of nearly 70 regional food magazines, all locally owned and operated by passionate publishers who are deeply tied to their local food communities.

home kitchen, what Winter continually reminds me of is this: to slow down, to enjoy the process of cooking, and to savor the depth of flavor inherent in the dishes the winter season has to offer.

Cheers and good eating, Tracey Ryder

men

Cooking Schedule

Starting 3 hours before you plan to eat your first course: • Make the meringues • Prepare the roast chicken and put in the oven 1 hour- 45 minutes before you plan to eat it • Make the pots de crème and refrigerate them • Prepare and cook the roast vegetables • Make the trout salad

Smoked Trout Salad Herb Stuffed Roast Chicken with Roasted Root Vegetables Chocolate Pots de Crème with Espresso Salt Meringues

Smoked Trout Sal ad

One of my favorite things to do in Paris, particularly on wintery days, is to go wandering about the weekend antique markets with family and friends, ensconced in a warm coat with a scarf wrapped around my neck. After having, hopefully, discovered a few treasures, we adjourn to a good bistro and squeeze into benches behind often narrow tables. Sometimes a little nibble will be popped on the wooden tabletops accompanied by a glass of wine as we ponder the menu. This dish is inspired by those days and what could be more classic French bistro food than a smoked trout salad? Serves 8 people 1/2 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 4 tablespoons shallots — peeled and finely diced 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or white balsamic vinegar Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 lemon — quartered Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon fennel seeds — pan roasted for 3–4 minutes 8 oz smoked trout — remove skin and any little bones 1 lb fingerling potatoes — cooked with 1 teaspoon of four-peppercorn mix, a bay leaf and 2 allspice berries 1/2 bunch chives — finely chopped (this

equals about 3 tablespoons) 1/2 bunch dill — finely chopped (this equals about 3 tablespoons) 1/2 bunch parsley — finely chopped (this equals about 3 tablespoons)

8 oz mache salad

1 Pour the olive oil into the bottom of a medium-sized salad bowl. Add in the mustard and vinegar and whisk so that you have a thick vinaigrette. Add in the shallots, toasted fennel seeds, juice and zest of the lemon, a large pinch of salt, 5–6 turns of a peppermill, and whisk again. Place salad utensils over the vinaigrette. 2 Cut the fingerling potatoes into small thin disks. Add the potatoes and all the remaining ingredients (except the mache salad) into the bowl placed on top of the serving utensils. 15 minutes before you are ready to serve the salad, toss all the ingredients together. 3 To serve, divide the mache salad equally amongst 8 dinner plates and drizzle with a little olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Spoon the trout salad into the center of each plate on top of the mache greens. Serve with a fresh or toasted baguette.

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Origins Smoking fish has existed as a preservation method for thousands of years. Remains of ancient smokehouses have been found in Ireland, Italy and Eastern Europe. The ancient Greeks were well known for their smoked Black Sea tuna which they packed in jars for transport and trade. From medieval Europe, where it was prevalent, to Native American tribes in the Pacific Northwest, whose smoked salmon was well regarded, each region has developed its smoked specialties. Thanks to the advent of refrigeration, smoking is now used for flavor rather than preservation, but techniques have changed little over time, using either hot smoking (up to 180 degrees for a shorter period of time) or cold smoking (from 60â&#x20AC;&#x201C;110 degrees for more than 24 hours) to preserve the fish. Oily species such as salmon, trout, black cod and tuna are well-suited to these methods. î Ż

menu 2

Herb Stuffed Roast Chicken with Roasted Ro o t Vegetables

This entire menu pays homage to my French roots and Sundays spent together cooking, eating, laughing and going for long walks. This meal reminds me of buying fresh chickens in the market square in Provence; chickens the local farmer raised naturally. To my great delight there is now a purveyor of wonderful organic, healthy chickens at our local Santa Barbara markets, whose birds are full of flavor. They are delicious roasted and this makes a great Sunday meal. Serves 8 people 4 large sprigs rosemary — leaves removed 4 sprigs thyme — leaves removed 1 bunch chives — finely chopped 1 small bunch parsley — finely chopped 4 spring onions — finely chopped Zest of 1 lemon — quarter the zested lemon and set aside 3 cloves garlic — peeled and minced 1 tablespoon olive oil Salt and pepper 2 organic chickens

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2 Combine all the ingredients (except for the chickens and the lemon quarters) in a small bowl and mix well to form a thick herb mixture. 3 Using a small spoon which you slip under the skin of the chicken, carefully spoon a little of the herb mixture under all the skin (between the skin and the breast meat). Do this carefully so as not to break the skin. Salt the inside and outside of the chicken, then place the lemon quarters inside. 4 Place the chickens in a large roasting pan and rub the outside with a little olive oil. Roast in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and roast for a further 1hr 15 minutes, turning the chickens once or twice so that all sides are evenly browned. When the chickens are cooked, remove them from the roasting pan and place on a carving board. Loosely cover with foil and set aside to rest for 10 minutes before carving. 5 Cut the chickens and serve on hot plates with the vegetables. Remember to spoon some of the pan juices over the chickens as well.

menu 2

Origins

Harvested for millennia from the Roman Empire to Native Americans, from the nomadic traders of the Sahara to the ancient Egyptians, all cultures around the world have depended on the salt trade at some point in their economic development. The Republic of Venice rose to economic dominance in the 11thâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;13th centuries in large part because of its salt monopoly. It has also led to bloody upheavals and contributed to revolutions in India and France. Salt has also featured heavily in US history where key battles during the American Civil War were fought to capture strategic salt mines. The US is now the largest producer of sodium chloride in the world, but only 3% of that is for table salt. î Ż

menu 2

Cho col ate Po t s de Crème

Espresso Salt M eringues

I mention pots de crème to my family and hear sighs of contentment. What is it about these little heavenly desserts that so attracts everyone? I have a friend who supposedly did not eat desserts. She literally licked these clean. This recipe multiplies easily too, so it is wonderful for a large party.

Good meringues are ethereal with a thin shell on the outside, then soft on the inside, almost like a marshmallow. These have salt in them. The salty-sweet combination is fantastic. Salt seems to have undergone a bit of a revival in recent years with access to different types of salts from around the world. I came across this salt infused with espresso and it is wonderful in this dessert.

Serves 8 people 2 cups cream (do not use ultrapasteurized cream as it will separate when combined with lemon juice) 3/4 cup sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons espresso coffee 2 1/2 oz dark chocolate — chopped into little pieces

1 tablespoon lemon juice 2–3 turns of black pepper 1 Bring the cream and sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Pour in the espresso and stir to combine. Whisk in the chocolate pieces and stir continuously until all the chocolate has melted and is smooth. 2 Remove from the heat and pour in the lemon juice and grind in the black pepper. Stir to combine and then pour the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a pouring jug. 3 Divide the mixture evenly between 8 espresso cups or small ramekins. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Serve with the meringues.

Serves 8 – 10 people 3 egg whites 7 1/2 oz sugar

(1 cup less 2 level tablespoons)

th e key:

The key in cooking with salt is to achieve the right balance. Too much salt and food is inedible, too little, and it is bland. Salt enhances the natural flavor of food and suppresses bitterness. A salad made with bitter greens will be tempered with the addition of salt in the greens. Vegetables, when cooked in salty water, will cook faster than in just plain water. Salt also enhances the sweet tastes in food as with these meringues.

1 teaspoon Espresso Salt 1

Preheat the oven to 225 degrees.

2 Place the egg whites in a mixing bowl and beat until they hold soft peaks. Gradually add the sugar, a tablespoon at a time and whisk until the whites are stiff and very glossy. Add in the espresso salt and beat a few seconds more so that it is evenly distributed in the meringue mixture. 3 Drop large tablespoonfuls of the mixture onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours or until they are dry and crisp. They should not turn golden, but rather should be a pale cream color when finished. You can also pipe the meringue mixture using a normal round nozzle attachment to create evenly shaped meringues. If they are smaller in size, they will need less time to cook. Check the oven frequently to ensure that they are not overcooked.

menu 3

Whole Baked Fish in a Salt Crust

Pythagoras wrote in 550 bc, “Salt is born of the purest of parents: the sun and the sea.” This dish is the perfect complement to that thought. There is something exhilarating about cooking fish this way, perhaps because you cannot see it baking. You have to break open the salt crust to discover the fish beneath. It’s a treat every time! Serves 6–8 people (depending on the size of the fish) 1 whole fish (scaled and gutted) You can use pretty much any fish. Whole striped bass, salmon, snapper, mullet, trout, etc. Coarse sea salt — you will need a lot of this but the amount depends on how big your fish is — usually about 3–5 lbs Zest and juice of 2 lemons 1 bunch parsley 1 bunch dill 1 bunch fennel tops (the tops cut off 2 or 3 fennel bulbs)

6 After baking, allow the fish to rest for 10 minutes (the fish will cook a little more) then gently break and remove the salt — be careful not to pierce the skin of the fish as this will make the fish too salty. You can serve the fish in its baking dish on the table as the presentation is dramatic and unusual. Serve with the couscous and some of the green sauce.

Green Sauce Serves 8 as an accompaniment

2 lemons cut into thin slices

1 Meyer lemon — cut into eighths 1/3 cup olive oil

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.

3 tablespoons chives — finely chopped

2 Combine the lemon zest, lemon juice and all the salt in a large bowl. Set aside.

2 tablespoons crème fraiche 1/3 cup saffron-infused vegetable stock

3 Rinse the fish and pat dry. Stuff the belly of the fish with all the herbs and lemon slices. The herbs should be bulging out of the cavity to stop the salt getting in.

4 Mound 3/4-inch of sea salt on the bottom of a large baking pan or baking tray. Place the fish on top of the salt. Cover the fish entirely with a layer of salt about 3/4-inch thick.

(page 39, step 3)

Salt and pepper 1 Place all the ingredients in a blender and process until you have a fine sauce (it will still have some texture to it and will be pale green in color).

5 Drizzle a little water over the top of the salt. This will help form the crust. Bake in the middle of the oven for 10 minutes per pound of fish.

menu 3

Tea- Infused Winter Fruit with M ar m al ade Shor tbread

My grandmother, Geneviève Fay, loved to play bridge. Her bridge partners would take turns hosting their afternoon games. Although I did not play with them, I was allowed to help prepare the ‘gourmandise,’ the treats my grandmother set out when it was her turn to host. She invariably included a seasonal fruit salad on these occasions, served in a beautifully decorated glass bowl. I loved those salads, and this version is a tribute to her. Serves 8 people 1 teaspoon butter 1 teaspoon light brown sugar 2 apples — Pink Lady or Granny Smith — peeled, quartered and sliced 1 blood orange — zest set aside, then peel and slice the orange crosswise 12 dried prunes — pitted 12 dried apricots 1 stick cinnamon 2 cloves 2 pieces crystallized ginger — chopped 1/2 cup brewed Earl Grey tea Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 Melt the butter and sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Once completely melted add in the orange zest and the apple slices. Cook for 3 minutes turning occasionally so that the apples are slightly browned. 2 Add in all the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Cook for 5 minutes over low heat. Then let the fruit infuse for at least 30 minutes — in the saucepan but off the heat — before serving. 3 Serve the fruit in small glass bowls as the colors are very appealing, with the shortbread alongside.

M ar m al ade Shor tbread

My family loves shortbread. I have been experimenting with different versions and thought I would give it a try with some marmalade inside. The result was wonderful with pieces of the orange zests captured in the buttery shortbread dough. They are great alongside a cup of tea too. Makes 24–30 shortbread sticks 4 oz (1 stick) butter 2 oz (just under 1/4 cup) sugar 6 oz flour 2 tablespoons thick orange marmalade 1

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

2 Place the butter in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Beat, on medium speed, until soft and fluffy. Add in the sugar, and beat again until well combined, scraping down the sides of the mixing bowl occasionally.

menu 3

Origins Earl Grey tea is named after a British lord, Charles Grey, 2nd Earl Grey, who was the British Prime Minister in the early 1830s. He was a great social reformer, but his works are overshadowed by the tea that carries his name. It is traditionally a black tea whose distinctive aroma is defined by the addition of essential oils from the bergamot orange, a small acidic fruit. î Ż

3 Add in the flour and mix until the dough has just come together. Add in the marmalade and mix again so that the marmalade is well distributed throughout the dough. Remove the dough from the bowl and form into a ball. 4 Lightly flour a countertop or clean work surface and place the dough in the center. Gently roll out the dough until it

is approximately 1/4-inch thick. Using a knife, cut out the shortbread into 1/2-inch wide by 3-inch long sticks and then place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. 5 Bake the shortbread for 45 minutes in the center of the oven. They should be a pale golden color. Place them on a wire rack to cool. They will keep for several days in a sealed container. 35

menu 4

B lo od O r ange and M e y er Lemon Tar t

Both fruit were sitting in a basket on my kitchen counter, a gift from a friend who had a plethora of both in her garden. I used them to make marmalade and this tart which celebrates the sweet, zesty nature of Meyer lemons, paired with the sweet-sour nature of blood oranges. Serves 8–10 people For the dough:

For the filling:

7 oz unbleached all-purpose flour

Grated zest and juice of 2 blood oranges

3 oz almond meal or almond flour

Grated zest and juice of 3 lemons

1/4 cup pistachios — chopped

4 whole eggs

Zest of 1 lemon

3 egg yolks

Zest of 1 blood orange, plus 1 tablespoon of orange juice Pinch of cardamom 6 oz slightly softened butter — cut up into small pieces. 1 large egg Pinch of salt 1

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2 Butter a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. 3 Place all the ingredients into a food processor and use repeated pulses until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then use longer pulses until the dough forms a ball in the bowl of the food processor. 4 Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes before rolling out. 5 Place the unwrapped dough on a lightly floured work surface. Roll the dough out to a 1/4-inch thickness. Line the tart pan with the dough, trimming any excess from the edges. 6 Bake the dough blind (lined with parchment and filled with pie weights or beans) for 20 minutes. The dough should be a pale golden color. Remove from the oven and remove the parchment paper and pie weights. 40

6 oz sugar (3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon) 3 oz butter — melted (3/4 stick) 1 Place the orange juice , lemon juice and zests in a large bowl. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and heat up the lemon and orange juice until warm to the touch. 2 Whisk in the whole eggs and then the egg yolks, being careful not to let the mixture boil as this will cause the eggs to curdle. Add in the sugar and melted butter, stirring until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. This will take a little time, be patient and do not turn the heat up. 3 Pour the lemon/orange mixture into the partially baked tart and bake a further 10 minutes or until the tart is golden brown.

Origins Oranges originated in Southwest China centuries ago. Over the course of the last two millennia, as trade routes developed, orange seeds were transported around the world. Once considered a great luxury in medieval Europe, they are now a common part of the Mediterranean landscape. Columbus introduced the citrus seeds to Central America where they flourished in the local climates. They arrived in California with the Catholic missionaries in the mid-1700s where they thrived. Blood oranges, whose most common varieities are Moro, Sanguinello and Tarocco, are thought to have originated in 17th century Siciliy. Their remarkable color comes from anthocyanins, or red pigments, whose development is enhanced by a climate with cold nights and mild days. î Ż

menu 5

Sal mon Coulibiac with a H erb and Chive Coulis

Coulibiac were all the rage in the fifties and sixties. Unfortunately, as with all fads, they pass. What a huge shame in this case as it is a wonderful dish, particularly for a special occasion. I often make it on Christmas Eve as the presentation is beautiful and festive and as the pastry is filled with wild rice and spinach you do not need anything other than the herb sauce to serve alongside. Serves 8 people 1 whole side salmon — approx. 4 lbs — cut crosswise into 1/2-inch wide strips 1 tablespoon Herbes de Poisson 1 tablespoon lemon olive oil Olive oil 1 lb spinach 4–5 green onions — finely chopped 2 cloves garlic — chopped 3 cups cooked wild rice or wild rice mix Freshly ground pepper 2 batches of the dough recipe 2 eggs — beaten in a small bowl 1

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2 Place all the salmon strips in a bowl with the Herbes de Poisson and lemon oil. Coat the salmon well. Set aside. 3 Pour a little olive oil in a large skillet placed over medium-high heat. Add in the green onions and garlic, cook for 5 minutes then add in the spinach and cook for 2–3 minutes or until it has just wilted. Remove from the heat. 4 Put all the spinach in a large mixing bowl, add in the pre-cooked rice, a teaspoon of salt, 4–5 turns of peppermill and mix together well.

5 Lightly flour a clean work surface and roll out one piece of the dough into a rectangle that is 16 x 10 inches. Center this piece of dough on a parchment-lined baking sheet and brush with some of the beaten eggs. 6 Spread out half the rice mixture over the dough leaving a 2-inch wide border. Lay all the salmon strips side by side over the rice mixture, recreating the shape of the whole side of salmon. Cover the salmon with the remaining rice/spinach mixture. Fold up the dough to cover the sides of the salmon. The dough will not reach over the top of the top layer of rice. Brush the outside edges of the dough with more of the beaten egg mixture. 7 Roll out the second piece of dough into a rectangle that is 16 x 8 inches. Place this strip of dough on top of the rice mixture so that it drapes over the sides and covers the bottom part of the dough. Seal each end by crimping the dough together. The salmon and rice should now be completely encased in dough. Brush all of the dough with the remaining egg mixture. 8 Bake for 20–25 minutes. The dough will be golden brown. Remove from the oven. Cut inch-wide slices and serve on warmed plates with the herb and chive coulis.

menu 5

For the pastry dough: 9 oz (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 5 1/2 oz (1 1/3 sticks) slightly softened butter — cut up into small pieces

Zest of 1 lemon 1 large egg Pinch of salt 1 Place all the ingredients in the bowl of the food processor fitted with a metal blade. Use repeated pulses until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Use longer pulses until the dough has formed a ball. The texture is very smooth and slightly moist. Wrap up the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes. For the herb and chive coulis: Serves 8 as an accompaniment 1 bunch dill — finely chopped 1 bunch chives — finely chopped 2 tablespoons flat Italian parsley — finely chopped 1 tablespoon cilantro — finely chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice Zest of 1 lemon 1/4 cup vegetable stock Salt and pepper 1 Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until you have a fine sauce. If it is still a little thick, then add some additional vegetable stock, one tablespoon at a time. Check the seasoning and add some coarse sea salt and pepper if needed. The coulis should be bright green. You can make this up to 2 hours ahead of time.

Origins Once a dish that graced the Russian Tsars’ tables, Coulibiac, or in its original Russian form, ‘kulebyaka,’ is traditionally fish — usually salmon — cooked inside a pastry case with rice, mushrooms and hard boiled eggs. It was a dish that became all the rage in France, masterfully adopted by Auguste Escoffier who had numerous recipes for it in his extensive writings. Anton Chekhov wrote in “The Siren” (1887) ‘The kulebyaka should be appetising, shameless in its nakedness, a temptation to sin’ — in other words serve it simply, as it is delicious that way. 

Origins These delightful little cake-cum-moist cookies originated in Paris. Their traditional rectangular shape was said to resemble gold ingots, a nod to the bankers and brokers (financiers) that worked at the nearby Parisian stock exchange. 46

î Ż

menu 51 menu

These three desserts combine to make an elegant end to any evening. The cognac ice cream is light and airy, the financiers scented and moist, and the salted chocolates, just delicious. Serves 8 people

Lemon Thyme Financiers 3 egg whites 1 cup confectioner’s sugar 1/2 cup almond flour 3 tablespoons unbleached flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 sprigs thyme — leaves removed Zest of 1 lemon 4 oz butter — melted until just brown — then set aside 1

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2 Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl and whisk until light and frothy. Gradually add in the sugar and then the almond flour, regular flour and salt. Add in the thyme leaves and lemon zest and stir to combine. Add in the melted butter in a slow stream, stirring all the while so that you have a smooth batter. It will look quite liquid. 3 Pour the batter into buttered molds. You can use a mini muffin pan for this. Bake for 20–22 minutes. A toothpick inserted into the financiers should come out clean. The financiers should be golden brown when ready. Serve with the ice cream.

Co gnac I ce Crea m 1/4 cup cognac 2 1/2 cups heavy cream 7 tablespoons sugar 1 vanilla bean — split 2 egg whites

1 Combine the sugar and the split vanilla bean in a bowl. Make sure you scrape out all the seeds and mix them into the sugar as well. Leave for 1 hour. Remove the vanilla bean itself and store in another jar of sugar for future use. 2 Beat the cream until stiff but still glossy, then gradually mix in the cognac and half the sugar. 3 Beat the egg whites until stiff, and then beat in the remaining sugar. 4

Fold the egg whites into the cream.

5 Spoon the mixture into a bowl and freeze. (In a shallow bowl the ice cream takes 2–3 hours to freeze.) It will keep covered in the freezer for 5 – 6 days.

O livia’s Dark Cho col ates with Sel de M er

Having discovered some small chocolate molds in our kitchen, my daughter, Olivia, announced one morning that she was going to make chocolates. I started telling her about tempering chocolate and other technical things and she looked at me the way only a thirteen-year-old can. “Step aside Mum, I know what I’m doing.” In the space of the next 20 minutes she produced these delicious small chocolates, no tempering in sight. The little piece of salt inside each one is delectable. Makes 20 chocolates 8 oz dark chocolate — use at least a 60% cocoa

1 Place all the chocolate in a bowl placed over simmering water or a bain marie (if you have one). Stir until the chocolate has completely melted. 2 Using a tiny bit of olive oil, wipe the molds into which you are going to pour the chocolate. Place one or two pieces of the coarse salt into the bottom of each mold. Then carefully spoon or pour the chocolate into the molds. Allow the chocolate to set in a cool place or in the refrigerator. Unmold the chocolate and serve. They are really excellent with a good cup of coffee!

Coarse sea salt Olive oil

menu 6

A pple and Pear spice L ay er C ake with M e y er Lemon Crea m

I have to say that my gastronomic leanings are more Gallic than AngloSaxon. Growing up in the 60’s in London may have been bohemian and full of fab-four music, but food wise it was still a pale, tepid, overcooked shadow of the glories from across the Channel. There were exceptions of course and luckily for me, my mother’s kitchen was one of them. The food of Provence reigned in our household and I delighted in every morsel. There was and is to this day an exception — that of English puddings and cakes. This cake is a tribute to those freezing afternoon walks across London’s Hampstead Heath. Serves 10–12 people For the spiced apples:

2 oz butter

2 In a large saucepan, melt the butter with the sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Add in 2 cups of the applepear purée. Stir to combine. Remove from the heat and let it cool slightly.

4 large Granny Smith apples — peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes 4 large pears — peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon allspice 1 In a medium-sized saucepan heat the butter and add the apples, pears, sugar, cinnamon and allspice, stirring frequently. Cook for approx. 10–15 minutes. You should have a chunky purée. Set aside. For the lemon cream: 1 cup cream 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup mascarpone — whisked well Juice and zest of 1 lemon 1 Beat the cream and sugar in a large bowl to form peaks. Using a spatula, fold in the mascarpone cream with the lemon juice and zest. Set aside. For the cake: 8 oz (1 cup) sugar 8 oz butter (2 sticks)

5 large eggs (yolks and whites separated — whites beaten to form stiff peaks) 8 oz (1 2/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

3 Add the egg yolks one at a time into the apple/pear mixture, making sure the mixture is not too hot — it will cook the egg yolks otherwise. 4 Stir in the flour until well incorporated. You should now have a smooth batter with chunks of apples and pears in it. 5 Gently fold in a third of the egg whites at a time. When all the egg whites have been added you will have a smooth, homogenous batter. 6 Pour the batter into a pre-buttered cake mold (use a 9-inch round or square tin). Place in the middle of the oven and bake for 25–30 minutes or until a knife inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean. 7 Let the cake cool to room temperature and then cut in half horizontally to create two layers. 8 Spoon the remaining apple-pear sauce over the bottom half of the cake. Cover with the top layer. 9 Using a spatula, cover the top and sides of the cake with the lemon cream.

• Prepare the gravlax a minimum of 36 hours before you plan to eat it

Serves 8–10 people (with lots of leftovers)

men

Home Cured Salmon Gravlax with Dill Crème Fraiche and a Micro-Greens Salad Duck Confit Red Onion and Pomegranate Relish with Persimmon Salad Crystalized Ginger Crème Brulée

Co okin g Schedule

This is a meal that calls for some advance planning but each of the dishes can be prepared in a relatively short amount of time. The advance planning part allows for dishes to cure:

• Prepare the duck for the duck confit 24 hours before you plan to eat it • Make the crème brulée up to step 6 at least 4 hours ahead of time — it can be made the day before if you prefer • Make the pomegranate and red onion relish • Slice the gravlax 30 minutes before you plan to serve it • Place the duck confit in the oven 30 minutes before you plan to eat your main course • Make the micro-greens salad • Make the persimmon salad • Finish the crème brulée just before serving it

H ome Cured Sal mon Gr avl a x with D ill Crème Fr aiche and a M icro - Greens Sal ad

Once you have cured your own salmon and tasted its incredible buttery, almost silken texture, you will never want to have anything else. It is that yummy. It also keeps well so you can use it in a number of dishes. I used the trimmings (as the first slices tend to be small) in a salmon soufflé and also in the salmon tartlets on page 48. 1 1/3 cups sugar 3/4 cup salt 1 tablespoon four peppercorn mix — coarsely cracked with 1 juniper berry 3–3 1/2 lbs extremely fresh wild salmon 2–3 large bunches fresh dill 1 Combine the sugar, salt and cracked peppercorns in a small bowl and mix well. 2 Line a large shallow dish (large enough to hold the whole salmon) with plastic wrap with a good length of the wrap extending over each side — you will need this to wrap up the whole fish. Place a third of the dill in the bottom of the dish. Place the salmon on top of the dill. Cover the salmon with the sugar/ salt mixture and then top with the remaining dill. Tightly cover the dish with plastic wrap and let stand for 1 hour in a cool place. Then refrigerate to cure for 36 hours. 3 After 36 hours, remove the salmon from the marinade (the salt will have melted by then) and rinse in cold water, then pat dry. Slice the gravlax on the bias (starting at the tail end of the fish) into very thin slices.

4 Serve with thinly sliced whole wheat toasts, accompanied by yogurt or crème fraiche mixed with fresh dill and lemon zest and a little of the micro-greens salad on the side.

M icro - Greens Sal ad Serves 8 people 1/4 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon lemon juice Zest of 1 lemon Salt and pepper 8 oz micro-greens salad 1 Whisk together all the ingredients (except for the micro-greens) in the bottom of a medium-sized salad bowl so that the vinaigrette is well combined. Place serving utensils over the vinaigrette and place the salad greens on top of the utensils. When you are ready to serve the salad, toss so that all the ingredients are well combined.

Origins Gravlax is a method of preserving fish that dates back to medieval times. The word Gravlax literally means ‘salmon grave’ in Swedish. The fish used to be buried in the earth while curing. This ‘grave’ maintained a continuous cool temperature during the curing process which lasted for many days to months. With the advent of refrigeration, modern gravlax is a method of curing the fish using a salt/sugar dry rub, which turns into a brine through osmosis. 

menu 7

D uck Confit

I love duck confit. It is one of my favorite things to eat and the wonderful thing about making it yourself is that any leftovers can be warmed up and put into a salad the next day which is equally delicious. Serves 8 people 8 duck legs — trimmed of any excess fat 6–8 tablespoons coarse salt 2 teaspoons peppercorns — slightly crushed 5–6 sprigs fresh thyme 4–5 bay leaves — broken into pieces 3 lbs duck fat — melted 1 In a small bowl combine the salt, peppercorns, thyme and bay leaves and mix together well. Rub each duck leg with some of the salt mixture, place in a shallow dish, cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 12 hours. 2 After 12 hours, rinse the salt from the duck legs and dry on paper towels. Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Lay the duck legs, skin side down in a frying pan placed over low heat. Cook for 15–20 minutes so that the pieces are goldenbrown, turning them over once.

3 Transfer the legs to a large flameproof casserole or oven-proof dish and add enough of the melted duck fat to cover the legs completely. Cover tightly with a lid or foil and cook in the oven until the duck has rendered all of its fat and is so tender, it is almost falling off the bone — this will take approximately 2 1/2 hours. 4 To preserve the duck, place some of the duck fat in the bottom of a preserving jar. Carefully place the legs on top and then cover the legs completely with more duck fat. Be sure there are no air bubbles. Cover and refrigerate for 1 week. The fat encasing the legs will preserve the meat. 5 To serve, remove the legs from the duck fat, scraping off as much fat as you can. Place the pieces in a roasting pan and roast in a 325 degree oven for 30 minutes. Serve with the pomegranate relish and the persimmon salad. note: The longer you leave the duck in the salt mixture, the saltier it gets, so be careful not to leave it in for more than 24 hours.

Origins Confit, a delicacy from Southwestern France, is one of the oldest methods of preserving food, usually meat, although the term can also be applied to fruit that have been preserved in sugar. The word stems from the noun confir â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to preserve â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in French. The meat, once seasoned and salted for a period of at least twelve hours, is then slowly cooked in rendered fat. Once cooked and cooled it can be stored in the same fat for many months. î Ż

men

Winter Citrus Salad Halibut Za’atar with Red Quinoa Herb Salad Apple Crumble

Co okin g Schedule

Winter Citrus Sal ad

Starting 2 hours before you plan to eat your first course:

Winter is often seen, in food terms, as a time for warm hearty dishes and yet it is prime time for lots of citrus fruit, Meyer lemons and blood oranges in particular. Inspired by the classic orange and red onion salad of Spain and the North African tradition of preserved lemons, this salad is a nod to both. Meyer lemons, which are so delicately skinned, lend themselves marvelously to this dish.

• Make the apple crumble • Make the quinoa salad • Prepare the fish • Make the winter citrus salad • Place fish in the oven when you sit down to eat the main course

Serves 8 people 4 oranges — peeled and thinly sliced 4 blood oranges — peeled and thinly sliced 1 Meyer lemon — very thinly sliced with the skin on 1/4 cup olive oil Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon orange flower water 1 pinch cumin 1 pinch sumac 1 pinch cinnamon Coarse sea salt Black pepper 2 tablespoons chives — finely chopped 2 tablespoons cilantro leaves — left whole

1 Place the sliced oranges, blood oranges and Meyer lemons on a platter and arrange them in an appealing pattern. 2 In a separate bowl mix together all the remaining ingredients except for the cilantro and chives. Whisk the mixture together well to form an emulsion. 3 Pour the vinaigrette over the oranges and then dot with the chives and cilantro.

menu 8

Halibut Z a’atar with Red Quinoa H erb Sal ad

We are fortunate to have an abundance of fresh, locally caught, sustainable fish literally just off our coastline. Be it black cod, local red rock fish or some wonderful halibut, it is all delicious. Fish this fresh smells of the ocean and the halibut cooked with these spices is moist and delicate. It pairs especially well with the quinoa salad whose herbs and spices complement the za’atar blend. Serves 8 people 1/3 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon sesame seeds — dry roasted in a pan for 2 minutes 1/2 tablespoon dried thyme 1/2 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon ground sumac 1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt 1 tablespoon chives — finely chopped 1 tablespoon parsley — finely chopped 8 sprigs fresh thyme — leaves removed and chopped 1 2 /2–3 lbs halibut filets 1 lemon — quartered 1

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2 In a small bowl combine all the ingredients except the filets of halibut. Stir to combine well so that you have a thick herb/spice paste. Place the halibut filets on a roasting pan or sheet pan and then spoon the herb/spice mixture all over the fish. Make sure all the filets are well coated. Leave for 15 minutes before baking. 3 Roast the fish filets in the oven for 12–15 minutes. Remove from the oven, squeeze some fresh lemon juice over the cooked filets, and then serve with the couscous alongside on warmed plates.

Red Quinoa H erb Sal ad with a Curry Vinaigret te Serves 8 people 2 cups red quinoa — rinsed and drained 1/3 cup olive oil 3 shallots — peeled and finely diced 1/2 tablespoon curry powder (see page 42) 1-inch piece fresh ginger — peeled and finely grated 1 small garlic clove — minced Salt and pepper Juice and zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or Jerez vinegar 1 bunch chives — finely chopped 1/2 bunch cilantro — finely chopped 1/2 bunch parsley — finely chopped 1/2 bunch dill — finely chopped 1 Place the quinoa in a saucepan with 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover and cook until the quinoa has absorbed all the water. You can also cook the quinoa in a rice cooker, using the same proportions. 2 Whilst the quinoa is cooking, prepare the vinaigrette. Pour 1 tablespoon of the olive oil into a small saucepan or skillet placed over medium heat. Add in the shallots, curry powder, fresh ginger, garlic, a large pinch of salt and some black pepper. Cook for 3–4 minutes so that the shallots are lightly golden and the aroma from the spices is released. Set aside.

Origins Zaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;atar is the Arabic name for wild thyme, but also means a herb-spice mix popular in the countries that ring the Eastern Mediterranean. It usually includes thyme, ground sumac and sesame seeds. Other herbs such as savory and oregano can be added to the mixture but as with Ras al Hanout, recipes for the spice mix are closely guarded. It has been a prominent feature of Arabic cuisine since medieval times and is referred to in the Hebrew bible. Pliny the Elder wrote of its use by Parthian kings, and remnants of the spice were purportedly found in Tutankhamenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tomb. î Ż

3 In a medium-sized salad bowl combine the lemon juice, zest, vinegar and the remaining olive oil and whisk everything together so that it is well combined. Add in the spiced shallots and stir to combine well. Place utensils over the vinaigrette and add in all the chopped herbs.

4 Once the quinoa has cooked let it cool down a little, then add it to the salad bowl. 15 minutes before you are ready to serve the salad, toss and combine all the ingredients well.

menu 8

A pple Crumble

I cannot think about winter without thinking about apple crumble. More particularly the apple crumbles my mother taught me to make as a child in London. The recipe was handed down to her by my father’s mother, Ilse. If ever there was a dish to warm you up on a winter’s day, this is it. In those days we would go for great long walks across London’s parks, returning home with chilled fingers and toes and everything else in-between. A hot cup of tea and apple crumble would instantly thaw us out and we would delight in the crumble’s spices and buttery crust. Coastal California may not be as cold or damp, but the pleasure we derive from this dessert is undiminished. Serves 8 people For the apples:

For the crumble:

6–8 large apples — peeled, cored and chopped into 1-inch pieces

10 oz unbleached all-purpose flour

Chopped zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/3 cup raisins 1/4 cup sugar 1/3 cup water 1

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2 Place all the ingredients in a deep baking dish (at least 1 1/2 inches deep) and toss to combine them well.

9 oz butter — cut into little pieces 1/3 cup sugar 1 To make the crumble, place all the flour in a large bowl. Add 8 oz of the butter and mix it with the flour, using the tips of your fingers, until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Don’t worry if you have little lumps of butter left — it should look like that! Add in the sugar and mix to combine. Cover the apples with the crumble mixture. Sprinkle a little extra cinnamon and sugar over the crumble. Dot the surface with the remaining butter. Bake in the center of the oven for 40 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with vanilla ice cream or a dollop of crème fraiche, or both.

index

Apple crumble 66 endive and roquefort salad with 14 spiced layer cake with pears and 52-53 tea-infused winter fruit with 34 Apple Crumble 66

Apple and Pear Spice Layer Cake with Meyer Lemon Cream 52-53

Beef shank stew 16 Butternut Squash roasted root winter vegetables, with 25 Blood Orange meyer lemon tart with 40 tea-infused winter fruit with 34 winter citrus salad 62 Blood Orange and Meyer Lemon Tart 40

Caramelized Shallot, Goat Cheese and Smoked Salmon Tartlets 48 Cauliflower golden curry soup with 42 origins 43

Chanterelles sautéed with parsnip and cumin soup 28 Chicken roasted herb stuffed 22 Chocolate dark chocolates with sel de mer 47 pots de crème 27 Chocolate Pots de Crème with Espresso Salt Meringues 27

Cloves with pan roasted pears and vanilla 19 Cognac Ice Cream 47 Confit duck 56 origins 57

Couscous Israeli herb 32 Crystalized Ginger Crème brulée 61 Crème Brulée crystalized ginger 61

Cumin origins 29 parsnip soup with 28

Halibut Za’atar with Red Quinoa Herb Salad 64 Herb and Chive Coulis 45

Herb Stuffed Roast Chicken with Roasted Root Vegetables 22

Curry Powder 42

Home-Cured Gravlax with Dill Crème Fraiche and a Micro-Greens Salad 54

Duck Confit 56

Earl Grey Tea origins 35 tea-infused winter fruit with 34 Endives origins 15 apple and roquefort salad with 14 Endives, Apple and Roquefort Salad with Warm Nut Vinaigrette 14 Espresso Salt Meringues 27

Financiers lemon thyme 47 origins 46 Fish halibut za’atar 64 home-cured gravlax 54 salmon coulibiac 44-45 smoked salmon tartlets 48 smoked trout salad 20 whole baked fish in salt crust 31

Ginger crème brulée with crystalized 61 Goat Cheese caramelized shallot, smoked salmon tartlets with 48 Golden Curry Cauliflower Soup 42

Gravlax home-cured with dill crème fraiche 54 origins 55 Green Sauce 31

Ice Cream cognac 47 Israeli Herb Couscous with Pine Nuts and Golden Shallots 32

Lamb Tagine with Winter Root Vegetables in a Saffron Broth 39 Lemons financiers with thyme and 47 meyer lemon cream 52 winter citrus salad 62 Lemon Thyme Financiers 47

Marmalade Shortbread 34-35 Meringues with espresso salt 27

Meyer Lemon blood orange tart with 40 winter citrus salad 62 Micro-Greens Salad 54

Monique’s Succulent Beef Shank Stew 16 Mushrooms chanterelles, parsnip soup with 28 wild mushroom ragout 51

Nuts pine nuts with Israeli herb couscous 32 warm vinaigrette with 14

index

Olivia’s Dark Chocolates with Sel de Mer 47

Oranges blood orange and meyer lemon tart 40 origins 41 tea-infused winter fruit with 34 winter citrus salad 62

Parsnips origins 24 roasted root winter vegetables, with 25 soup, roasted with cumin 28 Parsnip and Cumin Soup with Sautéed Chanterelles 28 Pan Roasted Pears with Vanilla and Cloves 19

Pears apple spice layer cake with 52-53 pan roasted with vanilla and cloves 19 Persimmon origins 58 salad 59 Persimmon Salad 59

Pine Nuts Israeli herb couscous with 32 Pomegranates red onion relish with 59 Potatoes sautéed with truffles 36 Pots de Crème chocolate 27 Prunes lamb tagine with 39 tea-infused winter fruit with 34

Quinoa red, with herbs and curry vinaigrette 64-65

Ragout origins 50 wild mushroom 51 Ras al Hanout lamb tagine with 39 origins 38

Shortbread sticks with marmalade 34-35 Soup golden cauliflower curry 42 parsnip and cumin 28

Red Onion and Pomegranate Relish 59

Smoked Fish origins 21 trout salad 20

Roasted Parsnip and Cumin Soup with Sautéed Chanterelles 28

Red Quinoa Herb Salad 64-64

Roasted Root Vegetables 25

Roquefort apple and endive salad with 14

Salads endive, apple and roquefort 14 mache 20 micro-greens with home-cured gravlax 54 persimmon 59 smoked trout 20 watercress with sauté of truffle potatoes 36 winter salad 62

Smoked Trout Salad 20

Tagine lamb with roasted winter root vegetables 39 Tart meyer lemon and blood orange 40 smoked salmon tartlets 48 Tea-Infused Winter Fruit with Marmalade Shortbread 34-35 Trout salad, with smoked 20

Truffles origins 37 potatoes sautéed with 36

Salmon coulibiac with 44 gravlax 54 tartlets with smoked 48

Vanilla crème brulée, with 61 origins 18 roasted with pears and cloves 19

Salmon Coulibiac with Herb Chive Coulis 44

Salt espresso salt meringues 27 Olivia’s dark chocolates with origins 26 whole fish in a salt crust 31 Sauces & Vinaigrettes curry vinaigrette 64 green sauce 31 herb and chive coulis 45 meyer lemon cream 52 saffron broth 39 warm nut vinaigrette 14

Watercress Salad with Sauté of Truffle Potatoes 36 Wild Mushroom Ragout 51 Winter Citrus Salad 62

Whole Baked Fish in a Salt Crust 31

Za’atar halibut with 65 origins 64 red quinoa salad with 65

Shallots caramelized with goat cheese and smoked salmon tartlets 48 golden with Israeli herb couscous 32