FINE JEWELRY 2018
BENJAMIN MACKLOWE ben@macklowegallery.com
LARY MATLICK lary@macklowegallery.com
Macklowe Gallery invites you to our 2018 catalog. As the holiday season approaches, please stop in and celebrate this joyful time with us in our expansive new home at the corner of 57th Street and Park Avenue. This is an exciting year for us, as we welcome my wife Hillary as Creative Director. She discovered the brilliant jeweler Neha Dani and has made her Macklowe Gallery's first contemporary artist. A selection of Ms. Dani's work can be found on page 53 and her entire collection to date can be seen and purchased exclusively at Macklowe Gallery. We hope you enjoy this catalog of Fine Jewelry and Decorative Arts and look forward to visiting with you soon.
445 Park Avenue | New York City | 212 644 6400 | macklowegallery.com
LLOYD MACKLOWE lloyd@macklowegallery.com
HILLARY MACKLOWE hillary@macklowegallery.com
CAROL FEDERER carol@macklowegallery.com
NATASHA MAHDAVI natasha@macklowegallery.com
CARTIER PARIS, 18kt Gold, Platinum and Diamond Bracelet 4.2 carats, Circa 1940s – $85,000 2
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Attributed to JOHN RUBEL, PARIS, Retro 18kt Gold Brooch with 45 carats of Moonstones, Sapphires, Rubies and Diamonds, Circa 1950s – $32,000 Rubel began his career in 1939 as the head designer at Van Cleef & Arpels’ newly opened New York City branch. He was widely known and celebrated for his large scale brooches in delicate natural motifs with unexpected materials such as turquoise and coral, which were then accented with more traditionally employed gemstones. This piece is an excellent example of such a design, and was widely imitated in the years after its debut. 3
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, “Capillaire” Brooch 18kt Gold and 6 carats of Diamonds – $35,000
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BOUCHERON PARIS, Retro 18kt Gold and Sapphire Necklace, 2.25 carats, Circa 1940s – $48,500 The house of Boucheron has been a design innovator since the 19th Century. In the 1940s, their use of snake chain to create tassel-like three dimensional designs, like the lovely bow motif in the this sapphire studded necklace, became internationally popular.
REGNER PARIS, 18kt Gold Diamond Earrings, 3.7 carats, Circa 1950s – $21,000
Gold and Platinum Diamond Bracelet 4.8 carats, Circa 1950s – $25,000
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MAUBOUSSIN PARIS, 18kt Gold Half Hoop Earrings with 5.20 carats of Pave-Set Diamonds – $12,500
TIFFANY & CO., 18kt Gold Brooch with 5 carats of Platinum-Set Diamonds – $19,500
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CARTIER PARIS, 18kt Gold Diamond and Pearl Earrings, 2.5 carats of Diamonds and 8mm Pearls, Circa 1990 – $17,500
Edwardian 14kt Gold and Platinum Ring with Diamonds and Pearls Circa 1910 – $5,750
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 18kt Gold Diamond and Pearl Necklace 17 carats of Diamonds and 21 Pearls Averaging 7.75mm – $55,000
CARTIER PARIS, Retro 18kt Gold and Platinum Ring with Diamonds and Rubies Circa 1930s – $15,000 CARTIER PARIS, Retro 18kt Gold and Platinum Covered Watch with Rubies and Diamonds, Circa 1930s – $19,500
opposite HENRY DUNAY 18kt Gold “Sabi” Earrings 2.86 carats of Diamonds – $15,000 HENRY DUNAY 18kt Gold and Diamond “Sabi” Necklace 7.8 carats – $50,000 12
Tubular Link 18kt White and Yellow Gold Bracelet, Circa 1950s – $17,500 MARSH, Gold and Patinated Steel Bracelet with 20 carats of Citrine Quartz, Circa 1950s – $19,500
opposite European 18kt Gold Bracelet with 5 Raised and Striated Pillow Links – $19,500 14
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 18kt Gold Ring with 3.4 carats of Emerald and 1.10 carat of Diamonds, Circa 1960s – $39,500
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RENÉ BOIVIN, 18kt Gold Starfish Brooch with Sapphire, Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Accents Circa 1950s – $36,000 The house of Boivin is notable for its remarkable female designers who created bold, strong and beautiful jewelry for women of the day. The famous Starfish brooch was first designed by Juliette Moutard for actress Claudette Colbert in 1936, and since then the few variations on the original that exist have been highly sought after by jewelry collectors worldwide.
BOUCHERON PARIS, 18kt Gold and Platinum Drop Earrings set with 6.1 carats of Diamonds and 4.3 carats of Emeralds, Circa 1960s – $32,500
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DAVID WEBB, Hammered 18kt Gold Cuff Bracelet 5.39 carats of Diamonds – $50,000 DAVID WEBB, 18kt Gold Ring with 2.4 carat Emerald-Cut Diamond Center Circa 1970s – $47,500 opposite J.E. CALDWELL, 18kt Gold Earrings with Diamonds, Circa 1950s – $5,500 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, “Angel Hair” Necklace, 18kt Gold and 2.10 carats of Diamonds – $75,000 The famous “Angel Hair” designs by Van Cleef & Arpels are lauded for their elegance and craftsmanship. An identical example of this necklace was borrowed from Macklowe Gallery by Van Cleef & Arpels for an exhibition in Paris of their most historically important creations. 18
opposite VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 18kt Gold and Platinum Brooch, 5.65 carats of Diamonds and .60 carat of Emerald, Circa 1950s – $19,500 this page TIFFANY & CO., Retro 18kt Gold Illusion Bracelet – $15,500 20
Antique Japanese Shakudo Necklace, Copper and Gold, Circa 1890s – $9,500 Shakudo is a Japanese word that refers to a particularly alloyed metal meant to be overlaid in order to create decorative motifs. Shakudo jewelry is a piece of wearable art comprised of linked metal plaques that would once have adorned the swords of the Samurai warriors. After the Samurai were disbanded and no longer in armed service of the Emperor these plaques were created specifically for the export market, as European appetite for Japanese art exploded in the late 19th century. 21
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French 18kt Gold Bird Brooch with Diamond and Cabochon Ruby Accents – $12,500 23
Art Deco Platinum Plaque Brooch with Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphires, Diamond and Rock Crystal Approximately 4 carats of Colored Gems and 4.80 carats of Diamonds, Circa 1920 – $55,000
TIFFANY & CO., Rabbit Brooch in 18kt Gold, Enamel, Diamonds and Emerald Beads, Attributed to Donald Claflin – $24,500 This whimsical brooch exemplifies Claflin’s love of marrying only the most exceptional gem stones, materials and workmanship with designs that were far from serious in intent. The darling bunny rabbit, who peaks expectantly over his oversized diamond bowtie with emerald eyes, brings to mind beloved characters of children’s fables and picture books. Claflin was known and celebrated for bringing to life as wearable art such characters as cotton tailed Peter Rabbit and the mischievous cast of Alice and Wonderland. Art Deco Platinum Ring, 2.4 carats of Sapphires, 3 carats of Diamonds – $20,000 opposite Made for NEIMAN MARCUS, French 18kt Gold Link Bracelet with Malachite, Lapis Lazuli and Diamonds – $25,000 KUTCHINSKY, 18kt Gold Modernist Ring with 1.6 carat of Platinum-Set Diamonds – $17,500 26
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above Edwardian, Platinum and Diamond Drop Earrings, 5 carats total, Circa 1910s – $29,000 right Art Deco Platinum Diamond Drop Earrings, 5.2 carats total Circa 1920s – $25,000 27
CARTIER PARIS, Platinum Diamond and Conch Pearl Earrings, Circa 1980 – $42,500
DAVID WEBB, Platinum Hoop Earrings with Diamonds and Pearls, Circa 1950s – $9,500
Retro Platinum Earrings with 4.3 carats of Diamonds and 5.25 carats of Emeralds, Circa 1940s – $24,500 28
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, Platinum and Diamond Ring, 10.60 carats of Diamonds Circa 1960s – $110,000
OSCAR HEYMAN Pair of Art Deco Platinum Bracelets with 22.75 carats of Sapphires and 6.9 carats of Diamonds Circa 1922 – $115,000 (for pair)
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this page Classic Three Stone Ring, Centering on a 2.56 carat Burmese Ruby with Two Diamonds with a Total Weight of 5.0 carats, Circa 1960s – $75,000 LACLOCHE, Art Deco Platinum Brooch with 2.25 carat Central Diamond, 15 carats of Diamonds and 5 carats of Rubies, Circa 1930s – $55,000 Diamond, Ruby and Platinum Earrings 3.1 carats of Diamonds and 1.8 carat of Rubies, Circa 1930s – $17,500 opposite Platinum Diamond and Ruby Line Bracelet, 7 carats of Rubies and 10 carats of Diamonds – $80,000 32
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Art Deco Platinum and Aquamarine Drop Earrings with Diamond and Ruby Accents, 15 carats of Aquamarine, Circa 1920 – $23,500 33
Art Deco Aquamarine Pendant Necklace of 31.25 carats with Rubies and Diamonds Circa 1920s – $35,000
DAVID WEBB, Diamond Chandelier Earrings set in Platinum, 24.75 carats – $125,000
BULGARI, Platinum “Trombino” Ring with 2.6 carat Colombian Emerald and 3.15 carats of Diamonds – $110,000 A fine example of one of Bulgari’s most successful, celebrated and long-lasting designs, this “Trombino” ring centers on a Colombian emerald of exceptional color replete with a gemological certificate. The Trombino ring became immediately popular in the 1930s, as it allowed remarkable gemstones, such as the emerald featured here, to stand proud, and exemplified a boldness that appealed to women of the day. The ring was famously collected by many leading women throughout the ages, most notably by Elizabeth Taylor. 36
Belle Epoque Platinum and Gold Negligee Necklace with Diamond Accents, Featuring a 5.50 carat Garnet, 5.50 carat Yellow Sapphire, 5.75 carat Blue Sapphire Circa 1900 – $32,500
Edwardian 18kt and Platinum Ring featuring a Kite Shaped Peridot of 4.15 carats and 1.00 carat of Diamond Accents, Circa 1910s – $10,000
White Gold Earrings with 33.56 carats of Certified Natural Unheated Ceylon Sapphires and 2.60 carats of Diamonds, Circa 1950s – $45,000
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Art Deco Platinum and Diamond Earrings, 14.05 carats, Circa 1930s – $52,500
CHAUMET, French Belle Epoque Platinum-topped Gold and Diamond Double Riviere 68 carats, Circa 1900 – $225,000 One of the oldest known and established jewelry houses, French maker Chaumet was the preferred jeweler of Queen Marie Antoinette, the creator of Empress Josephine’s crown and architect of Pope Pius VII’s favored tiara. In the late 1800s when high quality white diamonds from the South African mines hit European markets for the first time, and platinum became newly available, Chaumet was among the first to use the superior materials in pieces such as this remarkable double riviere. Done in the house’s notably austere, and royally-minded style, this necklace would have been designed for the elite of Paris’ Golden Age. 40
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Edwardian Silver Topped 18kt Gold Halley’s Comet Brooch with 1.05 carat of Diamonds, Circa 1910 – $8,500 Antique Old European Cut Diamond Earrings, 18kt Gold and Oxidized Silver, 3.01 and 2.95 carats, GIA Certificates – $78,000
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Sasportass French Art Nouveau 18kt Gold and Platinum Snake Bangle Bracelet with Diamond and Emerald Accents, Circa 1900s – $12,500 42
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Georgian Silver topped Gold Convertible Diamond Earrings, 21.50 carats 4.61 and 5.08 carat Center Stones, Circa Late 18th Century – $250,000 43
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Antique 18kt Gold and Micro Mosaic Scarab Earrings, Circa 1890s – $9,500 45
Art Deco Platinum and 14kt Gold Ring with Diamonds and Rubies Circa 1920s – $7,500
Antique Silver Topped Gold Earrings with Emerald and Diamond, 1.4 carats of Diamonds and 1.54 carats of Emeralds, Circa 1890s – $16,500
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Antique 18kt Gold and Enamel Heart Locket Necklace with 4 carats of Diamonds Circa 1870s – $34,500 47
Antique Gold and Lapis Lazuli Earrings with Diamond Accents, Circa 1890s – $6,500
Etruscan Revival 18kt Gold and Lapis Lazuli Bracelet, Circa 1880s – $18,500
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Victorian Silver Topped Gold Heart Charm Necklace with Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Sapphire and Tourmaline, 3.15 carats of Diamond Accents Circa 1880 – $15,000 49
In Victorian times, jewelry of sentiment reigned supreme. Particularly popular were pieces of “acrostic jewelry,” or pieces in which the first letter of the set gemstone was used to spell out a loving message. For instance, the pattern of Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Tourmaline featured in each of this necklace’s charms are meant to spell out “Dearest.” Thus, we know this piece was given as a token of love, meant to be worn as a reminder of warmest regards.
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Art Nouveau Bat Ring, 18kt Gold, Enamel and Opal, Circa 1890s – $32,500
Art Nouveau 18kt Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Ring with Diamond and Pearls Circa 1890s – $7,500 Art Nouveau 18kt Gold Pendant Necklace with 2 Gem-Set Butterflies Circa 1900s – $14,500 51
presents the jewelr y of
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PINK MAGNOLIA RING 18 Karat Gold with White & Fancy Pink Diamonds totalling 15.78 Carats, $82,200 AMARANTE BANGLE 18 Karat Rose Gold with 18 Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamonds totalling 4.02 Carats & 11,611 Natural Pink Diamonds totalling 72.83 Carats, $3,000,000
TWIRLING SHIMMER EARRINGS 18 Karat Gold, Bronze Rhodium, Diamonds, $48,000
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EVOLVING HUES EARRINGS 18 Karat Gold, Yellow Diamonds, $71,000
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AIALIK CUFF, 18 Karat Gold, Diamonds, Moonstone, $48,000 GRINELL EAR CLIPS, 18 Karat Gold, Diamonds, Moonstone, $22,500
MARGERIE EARRINGS 18 Karat Gold, Diamonds, Moonstone, $15,800
BONITA CUFF, 18 Karat Gold, Custom Blue Rhodium, Sapphires and Diamonds, $46,000
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NITZA EARRINGS, 18 Karat Gold, Custom Blue Rhodium, Sapphires and Diamonds, $31,000
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ORABELLA RING 18 Karat Gold, Rhodium, Diamonds, Tahitian Pearls, $16,000 ORABELLA EARRINGS 18 Karat Gold, Rhodium, Diamonds, Tahitian Pearls, $16,000
DANCING GIRL EARRINGS, 18 Karat Gold, Diamonds, $69,000
We hope you have enjoyed these highlights from the Macklowe Gallery inventory. This is only a small portion of our stock so if you don't see what you're looking for please let us know at 212-644-6400 or, to look through a more comprehensive selection, visit us at www.macklowegallery.com Click to visit our Website.
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