The Quercy Local October-January 2013

October – January 2013 Issue 9

uercy Local The

The Region’s FREE English Magazine

Inside: Auvillar a village with a trading past Christmas in France Prune D’Agen Quercy’s Roman Roads, part 4 Rugby – Agen Tax Reforms for 2012

London-basedCards theatre company returns CharityTheChristmas artes

reative.fr/c

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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4 • contents

W

ell so much has happened since our last issue. France is always busy during the height of summer, the time when people also have their families staying; so it can be quite exhausting. Late nights with visiting grown-ups, early starts with grandchildren and endless cooking for those lazy al fresco meals – it doesn’t all happen by magic – does it?

Wider afield, it’s been an amazing summer for admirers of the Union Jack and I now feel even prouder of the little flag on our front cover! Those that came from Britain to live or spend a great deal of time in France, have on-the-whole a strong allegiance to the British flag.

It wasn’t so many years ago that displaying a Union Jack was seen as nationalistic, stirring up possible unrest and unnecessary guilts. Hopefully, this summer’s Diamond Jubilee, Wimbledon, Tour de France, Olympics, Paralympics and the stunning US Open Tennis-Final; have finally allowed us to ditch the stigma of possibly appearing nationalistic and allowed us to just simply celebrate good old-fashioned patriotism.

The Union Jack seems to have been designed to adorn the shoulders of this year’s stars, space doesn’t allow me to list them all, but because I can, I’m going to mention and congratulate my personal favourite – Andy Murray, a stunning example of how determination can get you there in the end.

Back here in France we’re about to go back into winter and many people will be waiting, with some trepidation, to see what the climate has in store this year!

People will be coming and going over the Festive Season often to spend some time with their families. Others will be staying here, away from their family, but hopefully making the most of their time in France; amid the acres of ploughed fields, falling oak leaves and inevitably very chilly nights – all of which can add up to the sort of tranquility that actually many can only dream of.

Whatever you are doing, everyone involved with the magazine wishes you all the very best for a peaceful winter and Happy Christmas and New Year.

Anna

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CONTENTS Rugby – Agen Book Reviews Quercy Food and Wine Quiet Reflection History Business, Insurance and Finance

8 12-13 16-32 40-45 46-55 57-63

54 For all enquiries please email – info@quercylocal.com Do remember that a directory or our advertisers can be found on our website – www.quercylocal.com This magazine is entirely funded by advertising, please do try and support our advertisers whenever possible and do mention that you saw their advert in The Quercy Local.

NOTE – Copy deadlines for the February edition: Editorial – 29th December, changes and renewal of existing adverts – 6th Jan. New Advertising deadline – 11th Jan (or sooner if lack of space dictates).

Cover picture: Auvillar, Tarn et Garonne

ARBRESERVICES Matt Strawbridge Tree Surgeon Elagueur Arboriste

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The Quercy Local ISSN: 2116-0392. No part of this publication may be copied, used or reproduced without the written consent of the proprietors.

No responsibility is accepted for any claim made by advertisers. All content accepted and printed in good faith. The Quercy Local is published by Red Point Publishing Ltd, (reg. in Eng. and Wales, No. 761556) redpointpublishing@gmail.com.

Editing in France – Anna Atkinson; French admin – Melinda Aldous/Rachel Verne; Distribution managers (47) – Lorraine & Pete Knowles; UK admin/accounts – Vicky Byram. Contributors; Angela Clohessy, Lisa Stanton, Colin Ley, Paola Westbeek, Angie Richards and Anna Atkinson.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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Rugby as it was meant to be played Rugby writer Colin Ley talks about the ‘old world’ thrill of watching Top 14 games at Agen, where there’s always an international star, or two, on display. He also previews an October clash with leading English team Bath, who are due to be given the Stade Armandie experience.

T

he lights are blazing, the music’s thumping, the pitch is a deep rich green and the crowd is at least 98.5% for the home team. From under the centre of the main stand, to a crescendo of noise and a thrill of anticipation for what lies ahead, enter the men of Agen, echoing a scene which has been played and replayed for more than 100 years of great rugby tradition in the Prune Capital of France.

Waiting to greet the home team’s arrival will be one or more world stars. It could be England’s Jonny Wilkinson, James Hook of Wales or Scotland’s Max Evans. There might also be a chance of seeing Australia’s Matt Giteau, Argentina’s Juan Martín Hernández or Italy’s Sergio Parisse, plus at least a handful of French stars, such as Morgan Parra, Dimitri Yachvili or Thierry Dusautoir. They all pass through Agen’s vibrant Stade Armandie ground during a season of Top 14 games, facing a hugely combative challenge which even the world’s top performers never take lightly.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

For rugby enthusiasts living in Gascony or Quercy who maybe grew up watching top quality games at Bath, Leicester, Kelso, Llanelli or Dublin, the Stade Armandie experience will be like stepping back in time. I once sat in the grandstand at Kelso in the Scottish borders watching Scotland flanker John Jeffrey in his prime, entertaining a passionate home crowd.

It’s an experience I thought had gone forever until I discovered Agen a few years back, entering a compact 12,000 capacity stadium, full of equally passionate local supporters, drawn together into a rue family atmosphere.

Sporting Union Agen Lot et Garonne, to give them their full title, is one of the great clubs of French rugby.

Founded in 1908 and with eight national titles to their name, the team has spent all but three of its playing seasons in the top flight of French rugby. That qualifies them to face and beat the best players the world game has to offer.

The town itself has also played a key part in French rugby history. Maybe this isn’t true, but the story is that there was a time when the national selectors would gather in a bar in Agen to pick the French team. Those were the days!

Down through the years, of course, the Agen team has contributed many great international stars to the French team. Current Agen head coach, Philippe Sella, who won 111 caps for France, started his career at Stade Armandie, while Jean-Jacques Crenca, also part of today’s coaching team, is another who had an enormous international career from his playing base in Agen. As they say; to name but two.

The arrival of the World Cup, and the professional era which followed, means that today’s game is a far cry from 1988, the last time Agen won the national title.

France’s preparation for hosting the World Cup in 2007 also had a long-term impact on teams such as Agen in that the game’s national leaders used the tournament to push through a cut in the size of the top league from 16 teams to 14. That’s made life tougher for Agen,

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Restaurant ‘La Sirene’ Place de l’Hotel de Ville Montaigu de Quercy (82150) Varied cuisine and a warm welcome guaranteed in this beautiful 16th century Quercy timber & stone building.

Pretty terrace overlooking old square and pretty local houses From Oct 12:

and a few others, who don’t have individual big money backers or a big city fan base to call on.

However, the beauty of Agen rugby, with its old world charm and enthusiasm, is that the club today is backed by 480 local businesses who share the financing of the team and its ambitions. A strong academy system also plays a part in keeping the team in the top flight.

For that reason, Jonny Wilkinson and James Hook both tasted defeat at Stade Armandie last year, as did Juan Martín Hernández and Sergio Parisse.

Agen also have some stars or their own, of course.

Team captain, Jean Monribot, is a class performer in the back row. Capped at under-20 level, he would have been a full international by now if he’d played during a less competitive back-row era. There’s also Ben Blair, the former All Blacks fullback who joined Agen at the start of this season, plus the powerful Scotland prop, Euan Murray.

It would be wrong, however, to suggest you should expect the Prune capital to deliver Toulouse-style rugby triumphs all the time, or the French equivalent of prawn sandwiches at half-time. To be in the stadium on a warm autumn night, however, as the local team extracts a win and four points from the mighty Stade Français or the fabulously-funded Toulon, is an experience not to be missed.

BATH COME CALLING! In addition to their Top 14 action, Agen also have an Amlin Cup home game against Bath scheduled for Thursday, October 18. That could be a chance to see England internationals Lee Mears, Matt Banahan and Olly Barkley all strutting their stuff at Stade Armandie.

One word of warning, however, for any Gascony or Quercy -based Bath supporters, or travelling family members; when arch-rivals Gloucester visited Stade Armandie in the same competition in 2010 they finished up on the wrong end of a 26-19 score line.

Sounds like you should be there.

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English Builder with 23 years experience

Robert Atkinson Estimates freely given Work can be seen References available Roofing l Stonework l Plastering l Tiling l Paving Blocking l Concreting l Door/Window openings Las Razes, Touffailles (82190), 05 63 94 32 80 robert@lasrazes.com, Siret: 499 560 654 00026

What do you get somebody who loves donkeys this Christmas?

You could make a donation on their behalf and help the donkeys over the winter Please help us with the enormous costs involved in looking after these animals: • Vets, medication, worming, vaccinations, dentists, farriers, micro-chipping and passports.

• Hay and straw for eating and sleeping on – all very expensive.

Please be generous and contact us if you feel you can assist. We’ve a variety of ways you can help us, including attending special events and open-days and several direct contribution schemes. Other fundraising

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

ideas are always welcome. Become a ‘friend of Liberté des Anes’ for just 25e pa (5e children). Or, why not become a full member, for 10e a month?

Any donations always most gratefully received. Cheques (£ or e) payable to: Liberté des Anes, La Volvene, Belvéze, 82150.

Alternatively, you can make a oneoff or regular donation via the society’s bank account FR76 1120 6201 3509 2864 3616 657. www.libertedesanes.com

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the quercy local • 11

Brigitte Basquet and Trui Seys have been working as estate agents in Agen, the Lot, Lot et Garonne, Tarn et Garonne and the Gers departments since 1998. They have a French and international clientèle and are known for their quality work, personal approach and multi-lingual service (French/English/Dutch/German spoken).

Brigitte Basquet et Trui Seys mettent à votre disposition leur expérience (depuis 1998) en tant qu’agents immobiliers dans les départements du Lot, Lot et Garonne, Tarn et Garonne, du Gers et dans la ville d’Agen. Elles sont à l’écoute de leur clientèle nationale et internationale et proposent un service multilingue de qualité.

More information on their properties and services can be found on the following websites – Pour plus de renseignements, veuillez consulter les sites internet:

www.winners-immo.com

www.immo-loustal.com

Contact: T. SEYS IMMOBILIER & CONSEIL Trui SEYS: Quercy Blanc – Tarn et Garonne, Lot, Lot et Garonne: Tel: 06 84 09 99 10 (from abroad: 00 33 6 84 09 99 10) e-mail: contact@immo-loustal.com Brigitte BASQUET: Agen, Lot et Garonne, Gers: Tel: 05 53 48 20 99 or 06 62 16 67 31 e-mail: winners47@gmail.com

Les amis des chats – 2013 Calendar The hugely successful Les amis des chats annual calendar is now in production. This year the Association has enlisted the help of Rosemary Latham who has kindly provided charming illustrations for each month.

As ever the professionally designed and printed calendar will allow space for users to insert their own appointments, anniversaries and other noteworthy events.

Why not pre-order now on www.les-amis-des-chats. com and make sure you get your Christmas shopping off to a good start whilst supporting a worthwhile local charity which actively improves the lives of stray and pet cats.

The calendars will also be on sale from October in the three Les amis des chats shops in Roquecor (82), Lauzerte (82) and Beauville (47).

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Reflections on the Quercy, A Timeless Paradise

By Peter B. Martin “The indigenous population is made up of very resilient people that had to resist numerous invasions and repulsed domination over the centuries, reaching all the way back to the times of the Sarrazins up to the Nazi occupation. They are hard working, adaptable, tractable and have a fervent attachment to their region. …[A] land adorned with more ancient chapels than villages, enhanced with an immense variety of wildlife and vegetation, featuring some exceptional wildflowers – a few qualified as rare or unique to the region. It is a land with hardly any fences and numerous unrestricted footpaths.

It is renowned for the overall richness of its architecture with its many chateaus, fortresses and unspoiled rural dwellings. This is the Quercy, in the South West of France, the subject of this book.”

N

o matter how long you have lived in (or how many times you’ve visited) the region known as Quercy, you probably still have unanswered questions about your surroundings.

Maybe when you walk or travel amongst the region’s splendours you’d love to have a passionate, informed fellow-traveller to point out the abounding treasures and evident history.

After reading Peter Martin’s book you’ll feel like you’ve met that ideal, sage-like companion. You may start to see things that you never saw before and begin to understand the many natural wonders as well as the man-made history that surround you.

Prolific numbers and varieties of birds, flowers, insects and wildlife have made the Quercy region their home and this book gives everyone the chance to understand, just a little bit better, their wild neighbours. We shouldn’t forget the people that have worn their own tracks through the region’s history and pathways; Peter Martin helps to explain how all this fits together and how the region has evolved alongside generations of its guardians, aggressors, worshipers and visitors.

Not a novel and not a formal text of local history but an informal companion to understanding more of what you didn’t realise you should in fact know.

If you have an interest in the geography, history, flora, fauna or the people of this region then we highly recommend this book to you.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

Peter Martin is a long time resident of the Quercy region and has had a life-long interest in natural history, previously working for the Museum of Natural History in New York. His book can be purchased from CHIMERA in Montcuq (46800) or the Tourist Office in Lauzerte (82110) alternatively it can be ordered via Amazon (either UK or USA).

English Library Cahors Did you know that there is an English library in Cahors which is part of the Association FranceGrande Bretagne? The library has a large selection of books to suit all tastes and new books are regularly purchased.

In order to use the library, membership of the association is necessary which costs 28 euros a couple or 15 euro single for 1 year and a small contribution will be asked per book. Becoming a member enables you to take part in many of the events and activities the association organises during the year.

The association also offer French and English language workshops which run throughout the year. The library is open every Weds and Sat from 1030 – 1230.

If you are interested in using the library you will find us in Room/Salle 22 Espace Clement Marot, Cahors.

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the quercy local • 13

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“Let me die a Frenchman’s death” These are words from part of one of Jeff Price’s poems featured in “A Toe in the Tarn” Jeff’s second collection which brings together a series of poems about his life in Newcastle and the Tarn et Garonne where he has a holiday home.

“Let me die a Frenchman’s death Not a stiff upper lip, clenched buttocks English death Let me be found by one of my seven illegitimate sons On the night before I am to be given the Legion de Honor Slumped over a plate of Foie Gras and truffles Having choked on a roasted songbird”

Jeff’s poetry is thoughtful, often humorous and occasionally irreverent, but manages to encapsulate all the little issues and observations that touch (at one time or another) all of our lives.

Jeff launched his book this Easter at Cafe du Commerce in Lauzerte. 70 people came along and enjoyed a great night. Mike Jones of Quercy Unplugged was there and commented “Jeff has the wordplay of Roger McGough delivered with the voice of a Geordie Adrian Mitchell. Great entertainment – count me in, I’m a fan”. This was followed in July by two sell-out nights at La Sirene in Montaigu de Quercy.

Kate Fox, Poet in Residence on BBC Radio Four’s “Saturday Live” reviewed the book and said “Great storytelling and a sharp eye for human foibles with powerful images... Highly recommended” Jeff will be returning to the South West of France next year and plans more events if you’d like to contact Jeff about performing his poetry then please email him. You can also order a copy of “A Toe in the Tarn” from www.zebrapublishing.co.uk Jeff Price, jeffprice@radikalwords.com, Tel: 0191-284-0836 (UK), Tel: 05 63 29 28 77 (France) To advertise with us email info@quercylocal.com

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Hello and thank you for taking the time to read this, my name is Mark Wilson and I moved to France with my family ten years ago and have since then continued my profession as a tree surgeon in France.

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the quercy local • 15

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

16 • quercy food and Wine

Exploring more French History and Culture (and not forgetting the Gastronomy!)

N

ow that life has quietened down and family and friends have left for another year.

Maybe you’ll have a time to plan visits other areas of France, something firmly on the ‘to do’ list of most people when they first come to France. Or, maybe next year, you can bear this article in mind and send your visitors off for the day! Hopefully, Paola Westbeek’s article on the joys of historical Duras will provide the perfect incentive.

Duras: My Heart’s Home The medieval town of Duras located about 30 kilometres to the south-west of Bergerac in the department of Lot-et-Garonne, has warmth that captivated us from the very first time we visited. We love its history, its people, its neighbouring villages and being food and wine lovers, we simple adore its exceptional wines and regional cuisine. It is a beautiful little corner of the world stole that has stolen our hearts and inspired us in so many ways. Allow me to take you through some of my most memorable moments and show you a few of my favourite places in Duras. Perhaps my stories about this wonderful The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

place will inspire you to plan a trip and discover its charm firsthand.

Breakfast in Duras & Market Days on Monday In Duras, there’s nothing better than beginning the day with a panoramic drive into the centre ville for breakfast.

We pass rolling vineyards and in the summertime, when we take a little detour, golden fields of sunflowers stretching out into the horizon. For some reason, the deep blue of the sky and the vivid yellows of the large blooms always make me feel as though I am actually inside a Van Gogh painting. It’s a little surreal at times.

‘Breathtaking’ is perhaps a better word.

The first place we visit when we arrive in the village is the bakery on the Rue Paul Persil. We purchase some of their buttery croissants or huge, plate-sized pain au raisins and take them to Le Tip Top, a bar on the main square. There, we order a grand crème and have a leisurely breakfast while reading the newspaper or simply watching the world go by. On Mondays, market day, some fresh fruit is part of the breakfast repertoire.

And speaking of the market, just like all the other markets in the area, this one offers a wide variety of

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quercy food and wine • 17

seasonal fruits and vegetables, fresh meat, all kinds of spices, tasty olives, fat roasted birds and even toiletries and house-wares. Whenever I hear people claim they can’t cook, or they don’t know what to cook, I always wonder what would happen if they visited a market like this one. There is so much inspiration! Yet, even a food writer keeps it simple sometimes. Toulouse sausages or a plate of charcuterie (either from the meat stand in front of the small supermarket or from the butcher Alain Evrard) with a green leafy salad and a baguette make both a fuss-free and delicious meal. There are a few local wines on offer and the sellers are always more than happy to give you advice or a little dégustation.

Mid-Morning Shopping & the Château de Duras Being a food and wine fan, my favourite places to shop are undoubtedly the gourmet kind.

When it comes to wine, I’m very lucky because there is a wine bar, Le Chai et Rasade located in the centre, on the Place du Marché, where you can sit down for a drink and a nibble in the summer and even buy wine straight from the wine grower himself. One summer in July, we spent a memorable afternoon sampling wines and enjoying an artfully prepared tapas selection including Pata Negra ham, dry-cured duck sausage, chorizo, Brebis cheese and bread. I especially loved his red wine (2009 Château Molhière “Les Maréchaux”) which was dark, full-bodied and bursting with luscious, ripe fruit. Thanks to the wine, food and extremely friendly service, it was one of the best afternoons we ever spent in the village. Before we left, my husband asked about the wine and the owner proudly told him that it was his own. We had to take some bottles home and curious as we are, the next day we took a drive through the vineyards of Château Molhière which are found approximately five minutes away from the centre, to the north-east.

Another treasure is the Maison Guinguet. They specialise in the famous regional prunes (Pruneaux d’Agen) and in fine chocolates. Agen prunes are sweet, wrinkly treats, very healthy on their own but sinfully delicious as chocolate-covered delicacies, in jams, creams or my absolute favourite — preserved in wine or liqueur. These make a fast and easy dessert when served over vanilla ice cream. The pretty chocolates from Maison Guinguet are ideal to give as presents or to indulge in with a cup of coffee after dinner.

Of course, Duras’ main attraction is its imposing château which originally dates back to the 12th century.

With the help of Pope Clement V and his nephew, Bertrand de Got, it served as a fortress starting in the 14th century and later as a luxury residential accommodation. The château, which was partially destroyed during the Revolution, was purchased by

the people of the village in the late 1960’s and completely renovated.

We’ve visited the castle twice and I would definitely encourage anyone discovering Duras to do the same.

There are many beautiful rooms including a kitchen and an original bakery. I’m not very daring, though I was still brave enough to climb up the rounded tower for a magnificent view over the Dropt Valley.

Lunch at Don Camillo

How I love Don Camillo, that wonderfully cosy restaurant located on the Rue Paul Persil! They actually call themselves a ‘pizzeria’ and their pizzas are certainly something to be proud of, but they also have an excellent traditional French kitchen, and a great, reasonably priced wine selection.

Here’s a particularly memorable eating experience which might just give you a clue as to how much we enjoy eating there. We had booked a table for lunch and once there, we ordered a bottle of local Merlot and three of their pizzas, completely oblivious as to how filling they are. Well, we nearly had to roll ourselves home that afternoon; especially Hans, he had the Texan Pizza which probably could’ve served all of Texas — chicken wings, chorizo, ground beef, even a fried egg!

At that point, we were swearing never to eat again.

Later that day, however, we walked back to the village for a drink and temptation got the best of us. We were lucky to find a table and treated ourselves to a meal at Don Camillo yet again. This time, it was not only sumptuous, but also rather romantic as we ate under a sky filled with stars and a sultry, much-welcomed evening breeze. Highlights included the escargots and the café gourmand with minis of crème brûlée, riz au lait, tarte aux pommes and a rum-drenched and utterly perfect canelé.

The food and service at Don Camillo are great and the experience is certainly enhanced when sitting outdoors in a shady spot under the big trees. We’ve learned that it’s a good idea to reserve a table, as they do tend to get very busy, especially during the summer season.

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18 • quercy food and wine

Drinks at Cafè de la Paix

opposite, in fact, Le Cabri offers both regional and bistro-style dishes and boasts a nice selection of moderately priced local wines. If you’re looking for a good, honest meal, whether it is a perfectly crispy confit de canard (a dangerously addictive choice) or a nice steak, this is definitely the right address. The dining experience is complete with the care of the most attentive of hosts, Peter and Eileen Marston. No matter how busy they are, they always stop by to ask how your day was or share a friendly word. For a full review of Le Cabri, please see page 12.

To the locals it’s known as ‘Chez Régine’, for us it’s simply, ‘the little cafè on the corner’. Cafè de la Paix is a wonderful place to have a drink, whether that is a Pastis before dinner or an Armagnac and a coffee after. When we sit outside, we have a great view of the château.

I love the welcoming, laid-back atmosphere, which most certainly has everything to do with the owners.

They really make you feel at home and always receive you with pleasure and a pleasant disposition. Even on their busiest of evening, during the summer, the cafè organises a concert on Wednesday evenings. The last one we attended was sheer joy. Many people made their way to the area where the band was playing and proudly showed off their best dance moves.

Dinner at Le Cabri

Just outside of the village, following the Route de Savignac, is our favourite restaurant, Le Cabri. It is part of a campsite, but don’t let that fool you into thinking that their menu consists of pizza and chips. Quite the The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

Duras Wines The vineyards of Duras were one of the first to obtain the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée certification in 1937. The appellation produces a variety of wines with an exceptional quality. There are reds (53%), whites (32%), rosés (11%) and sweet wines (4%) made by over 200 passionate wine growers.

Some of my favourites include the wines of Château Molhière (mentioned above), Domaine de Laulan (especially their sauvignon blanc) and Domaine Chater.

The wines are very similar in quality to the ones of Bordeaux. In fact, renowned wine authority Jancis Robinson once said the following about the wines of the region: “It is history more than geography that excludes these vineyards from the cosy umbrella of the Bordeaux appellation and I would take my hat off to any blind taster who could unerringly distinguish between the Bordeaux, Bergerac, Côtes de Duras and Côtes du Marmandais appellations.”

A Lovely Gesture Perhaps my warmest Duras memory involves everything this charming village is defined by: great food, amazing wine and friendly people. One evening, we were lucky enough to have a lovely couple sit next to us during the summer market held on Thursdays. The focus of this particular market is not only selling beautiful food, but also enjoying it in good company and with good music. Long tables are set out in the centre of the town and you can put a meal together from the many stands selling everything from roast chicken to paella to garlicky escargots.

At the time, we had our little Daschund, Pastis, with us. We had a brief chat with the couple about our dog, they showed us a photo of their lovely Spaniel and we all carried on with our meal. Just as I poured my husband and I the last of our bottle of wine, the man reached over and offered us theirs. It was such a lovely gesture and at that moment I fell in love with Duras and its people even more. Is it any wonder that I refer to this magical place as ‘my heart’s home’?

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quercy food and wine • 19

Restaurant Review

Le Cabri – Duras, Lot et Garonne Le Cabri, Route de Savignac, Duras 47120, Lot-et-Garonne For reservations call: T. +33 5 53 83 81 03

T

here are food memories that stay with you forever. Experiences that are savoured and never forgotten. For me, one of them is eating perfect rounds of the creamiest foie gras spread on warm, thin slices of toast. It was a simple but sublime starter at Le Cabri – a hidden gem of a restaurant nestled between Duras’ beautiful rolling hillsides.

The restaurant is part of a campsite run by the friendly English couple, Peter and Eileen Marston. At Le Cabri, you can choose from three menus or order à la carte. There are typical bistro-style dishes to choose from such as bavette with assorted sauces, pastas and fish, yet the restaurant prides itself in serving regional specialities. In this part of France, one of them happens to be duck – something Le Cabri does exceptionally well – from their buttery foie gras to their confit de canard (a personal favourite), which in fact, should come with a warning: ‘try once and become eternally addicted’. Under the crisp skin of the tasty duck legs, is tender, flaky meat that simply melts in the mouth. Combined with their perfectly cooked potatoes and a nice bottle of wine, it’s a meal that will have any palate swooning.

The wine list is small but includes a good selection of local wines. You’ll find reds, whites and rosés from Berticot, Domaine Les Hauts de Riquets and Domaine de Laulan, to name a few. Especially recommended is the Domaine Chater 2007 Merlot Cabernet — a round, nicely balanced blend, beautifully velvety and bursting with ripe forest fruits.

If you want to end your meal off on a sweet note, try their dessert du jour which is always a pleaser, or opt for a plate of cheese to go with the last of your wine.

It isn’t just the food that makes Le Cabri so special.

It’s the relaxed ambiance, exceptional service and cosy setting. There’s nothing more romantic than dining out on their terrace during sultry, moonlit evenings, and when it gets chilly, the inside of the restaurant offers convivial warmth with its rustic, French countryside interior. The hosts, Peter and Eileen, always ensure that their guests’ experience is one to remember. And that is definitely one of the many reasons that makes Le Cabri a place to keep coming back to.

Paola Westbeek is a food and travel writer with a good dose of joie de vivre. She is passionate about French cooking, wine, Rembrandt and life. For more information visit: http://inmylife-paola.blogspot.nl/. The photos are the work of her husband, Hans Westbeek, a photographer, filmmaker, epicure and of course, Francophile. For examples of his work, visit: http://mediamediaweb.blogspot.nl/.

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

20 • quercy food and wine

The road from Damascus – leading to a world-wide reputation for quality, being soaked in Armagnac and hailed as a super-food – Prune D’Agen

By A Atkinson

A

s we approach the festive season and hopefully consider those not enjoying the same peace and bounty we are able to take for granted; it’ll be hard to ignore the plight of the Syrians as they endure continued violence and destruction. We’re fast becoming hardened to the almost common-place television snippets of a virtually derelict and dusty land; devoid of calm and beauty. Syria’s capital, Damascus, is one of the oldest cities in the world, it was once a fertile garden-city where fountains played, streams ran and were “… the orchards form(ed) a circle around Damascus like a halo round the moon.”*

‘Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;’ [Keats] Many may recall reciting this ode during their school years, perhaps never envisaging that we’d end up living quite so close to so much of this ‘mellowing fruit’.

We’ve all grown accustomed to a plentiful supply of fruit and nature’s abundant bounty, a bounty that’s shaped cultures, fed folklore and created a historical gastronomy that’s internationally renowned.

The orchards that once surrounded the now war-torn Damascus mirror the endless valleys and hillsides in south-western France, fruit trees that encircle hamlets and villages and form floral rows; straight, static and endless, as if they were an army laying siege. There’s much more than this visual similarity to unite these two distinct regions. A huge part of this region’s agricultural tradition owes its success to the skills and dedication of the plum growers of Syria many centuries ago.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

In the 12th century, Monks from the Benedictine Clairac Abbey (between Agen and Villeneuve) sought to improve their plum trees (then probably more like damson trees and from the original crops planted by the Romans) and crossed their local plum trees with Damascene plum trees brought from Syria. In this way they produced a new variety of plum called ‘prunier d’Ente’ (from the word ‘enter’ meaning to graft).

This new plum evolved with a thin purple/blue skin and proved perfectly adapted to the region’s climate and drying conditions. The fruit was larger than the previous varieties with a delicate flavour and smell.

The Monks pioneered the process of drying the plums to make prunes and the Abbey soon became renowned for its prunes. It was a Frenchman who in 1856 smuggled cuttings from these trees to California;

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quercy food and Wine • 21

California soon became the largest producer of prunes in the world.

The name Prune D’Agen doesn’t mean that the plums were grown in or immediately adjacent to Agen.

It was the river port at Agen that was used to ship the product to Bordeaux and the wooden boxes (also known as palox) were stamped with name of the first port of departure, so they soon became referred to as Prune d’Agen. In reality you can find qualifying orchards in the Lot et Garonne, Dordogne, Gironde, Tarn et Garonne, Gers and Lot departments. To be called a Prune D’Agen strict rules for its production and drying process must be observed, the fruit must also be grown exclusively from an ‘prunier d’Ente’ orchard, located in specific geographical areas. Furthermore, the fruit must be dried and packaged within that same qualifying area.

Originally the exact time for harvesting the plums (usually between mid-August and mid-September) was determined by watching for the fruit to start to drop naturally or to fall with only a gentle shake of the boughs. More modern techniques allow for the testing of the sugar content of the fruit (after collecting several drops of juice) and then picking the fruit at the optimum sugar level. Each orchard can need up to four pickings to strip it successfully. This picking can be done by hand but is more often undertaken by a machine, which is faster and more efficient as it damages less fruit. A mature plum tree is expected to produce 100 kg of prune; 3 to 3.5 kgs of fresh Ente plums are required to produce 1 kg of prunes The harvested fruit are washed, sorted (to remove any damaged fruit) and then graded by size. Then they are placed on large wooden trays to be dried. These trays are then placed on trolleys to be moved into the drying tunnels. These tunnels are highly ventilated and after a drying phase of 20 to 24 hours they are placed in ovens at 70-80°C. Prunes are stored on the farm in palox then they’re put in special dark rooms at a constant temperature and moisture level. The crop is later sent to the processing factory where the quality is checked. The quality control regulations are very strict, only the best fruit are selected and they’re then graded by passing the fruit over sheets covered with calibrated hole-sizes.

A moisture level of 23% maximum is allowed, a perfect shape and the absence of flaws is essential.

Before being packaged the prunes are rehydrated in water at a temperature of 75°/80°. After soaking for 15 to 30 minutes, the prunes reach a maximum moisture rate of 35%, making them softer to eat. A higher rehydration (over 40%) produces a super moistened prune but it cannot then be labelled as Prune D’Agen.

Prune D’Agen are also sold with their stones still in place (unlike many of the Californian prunes), it is

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22 • quercy food and Wine

ENT. MARCO JEAN Plomberie Sanitaire Plaque de Plâtre Isolation Carrelage

MARCO & MIRANDA SCHORREN Bouysett 82160 ESPINAS 05 63 24 07 33 marco-jean@wanadoo.fr (English Spoken)

thought that the presence of the stone enhances the prune’s flavour.

Prunes are known to have the highest anti-oxidant vitamin capacity of any tested fruit or vegetable. Their high iron, magnesium, potassium and fibre content and the fact that they are easy to store and keep for long periods made them, historically, the perfect provisions on board naval and merchant sailing ships.

Prunes D’Agen are sold all over the world just to be eaten simply as a healthy snack or as an ingredient for the many regional pruneaux recipes but can also be prepared as special treats where they are filled with a prune-based cream or covered in chocolate. In Gascony it’s normal to soak the fruit in Armagnac (pruneaux à l’Armagnac) and then serve this sweet and very potent treat after dinner, or indeed at any suitable opportunity.

Eight hundred years ago (as an early example of globalisation) the actions of a few Monks created a gourmet dynasty and a hugely important local commercial enterprise that they could never have foreseen. Travelling from Damascus with live plants, ready to graft, can’t have been easy and much is owed to their persistence. They would have been leaving behind a very different Syria to the one we are currently witnessing, how things change!

Les CADURQUES (SARL), Métal 82190 LACOUR DE VISA 05 63 95 23 22 cadurques@wanadoo.fr www.cadurques.net Quality Products including: Foie Gras, Confit, Magret, Paté, Cassoulet de Canard, Chili de Canard, Magret Façon Jambonneau, Canard en Civet au Cahors, Canard aux Pruneaux.

Find us on the market – Roquecor, Lauzerte & Montaigu de Quercy Or visit our shop in Lacour de Visa or shop on-line.

* Ibn Jubayr (after visiting Damascus 1184) The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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quercy food and Wine • 23

Celebrating Prunes & Armagnac

Just like duck, the south-west of France is known for its Agen prunes and its Armagnac. Here are two recipes using both of these regional delicacies. The brochettes are simple yet very delicious. In order to create harmony in the array of flavours, the sweet prunes pair beautifully with the robust taste of the duck, while the orange balances its richness. And if you thought that ice cream was only meant for children, be sure to try this variety. I promise – you will not be disappointed!

Bon Appétit !

Brochettes de Magret These hearty brochettes de magret combine many of the ingredients the southwest is known for: duck, Pruneaux d’Agen and Armagnac. They are incredibly easy to make and are perfect for a quick, filling lunch. Cook the brochettes over a hot grill or on the barbecue, taking care to turn them frequently so that the sugars in the fruit won’t burn. A green salad and perhaps some good bread is all you’ll need to serve alongside. Of course, wine is essential.

Choose a full-bodied Madiran or a Pomerol.

Makes 4-6 brochettes, depending on the size of your skewers 18 pitted Pruneaux d’Agen 2 tbsps Armagnac 1 large orange, sliced and cut into small triangles 2 sprigs of rosemary 1 tsp fleur de sel 2 tsps pink peppercorns 2 duck breasts of about 200-250g each, cut into large sections

Method 1. Soak the prunes in the Armagnac for at least 30 minutes.

2. Finely chop the rosemary, pink peppercorns and salt. You want to end up with a fine spice rub.

Divide the rub in two equal amounts.

3. Sprinkle half of the rub over the pieces of duck.

3. Thread on skewers starting with an orange section, then a piece of duck and then a prune.

Finish off with an orange section.

4. Before grilling the brochettes, squeeze a little orange juice over them and sprinkle with the rest of the rub.

5. Grill to your liking, taking care to turn the brochettes frequently.

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24 • quercy food and wine

Glace aux Pruneaux et Armagnac Forget the usual rum-raisin variety, the flavour of this Armagnac-infused ice cream is definitely more elegant.

Together with an espresso, it makes the perfect ending to your meal. Or serve a single boule over a warm, fondant au chocolat for a taste of heaven on earth!

15 Pruneaux d’Agen, chopped 105ml Armagnac 800ml single cream 1 vanilla pod. split in half and seeds scraped out 4 egg yolks 170g caster sugar

Method 1. S oak the chopped prunes in 75ml of Armagnac overnight. The following day, heat the prunes and the rest of the Armagnac (in a covered saucepan) gently for about 3 minutes. Allow to cool.

2. Place the cream, vanilla seeds and vanilla pod in a large saucepan. Heat the cream gently for 3 minutes taking care not to boil the cream. Remove from the heat, take out the vanilla pod and set aside.

3. Beat the egg yolks and the sugar until pale and creamy.

4. Add a little of the egg mixture to the cream and whisk well. Pour the rest of the eggs into the saucepan with the cream, start whisking immediately and return to the heat. Cook over a very low heat, whisking constantly.

Once the mixture is thickened (10-15 minutes) remove from the heat, stir in prunes and Armagnac and pour into a bowl set over iced water. Allow to cool and refrigerate overnight.

5. Churn (in batches if necessary) in an ice cream machine.

Should you not have an ice cream machine, the freezer works fine, too. In that case, you won’t need to refrigerate overnight.

‘Francophile to the core, Paola Westbeek is a food writer and recipe developer. Besides writing, she also offers cooking lessons and organizes culinary/creative vacations in Burgundy together with her husband. For more information visit: www.ladoucevie.nl.

Hans Westbeek is a photographer, filmmaker and epicure. For examples of his work, visit: www.mediamedia.biz’ The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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quercy food and Wine • 25

Making Sales While the Wine Pours!

D

omaine des Sangliers is an independent, organic vineyard located in the hills of picturesque Puy-l’Eveque, one of the best terroirs of the Lot valley. We produce AOC, vin de Pays du Lot and vin de Table wines. Family run, we personally undertake every step of the wine making process, from pruning to corking, all on the estate. Our aim is to achieve the highest quality product, naturally and ethically produced, at fair prices. For further information please visit our website www.domaine-des-sangliers.com As I write, summer is once again drawing to a close, the “canicule” is over and the days are drawing in.

The “vendange” is looming and before we know it, Christmas will be upon us, followed by vine pruning.

A life lived in agriculture is always on fast forward, speeding by at an alarming rate!

Welcome Chez Nous!

After many hours of pointing, laying floors, woodwork and painting, we finally managed to finish (well almost!) our new tasting room. Now officially open to customers, you can actually sit down to taste and there is a bar to prop you up! It’s actually nicer than the house and I’m thinking of moving in!

Market Madness Summer has been a whirlwind of fayres, salons, exhibitions and markets (there’s a market for everyone: organic markets, gourmet markets, farmers’ markets etc, etc). Work begins at 5am; loading, lifting and lugging stock and stall into place (Gray, you’re a little gem, thank you!), then follows a frenzy of sales and “degustations”. The packing up and returning home is usually done by about 2pm, an hour or so for

paperwork and domestic stuff, before heading off to the next event at 3pm, repeating the whole process and home by 10.30pm.

After several years of trying, I was lucky enough to be offered a place at the “Marché des Producteurs de Pays” at Souillac. This is a great, little market in a beautiful town. Other stall holders are (for the most part!) a friendly, helpful lot; helping out with forgotten essentials or changing large notes, ready with a quick witted comment and an easy laugh.

It’s all the people you meet along the way, who make your day a great one (Emmanuel Jacquin, you’re one of these!).

Where are the Brits?

One of the fantastic things about living in the Lot, is the surprising variety of nationalities that find their way here. This season we have met lots of Australians, Canadians, Belgians and Danes (just a few of the countries represented here this year). The Brits, however, have been noticeable in their absence!

Impressive Jubilee celebrations and the London Olympic Games, seem to have boosted patriotism to an all time high and kept the Brits at home!

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26 • quercy food and wine

Come Back!

A question that I am often asked, by all nationalities, is “What is the hardest part of living in the Lot?” Integrating?

Paperwork? Language issues?

Homesickness? No, none of those.

The hardest thing by far, for me anyway, has been making new friends and then losing them when they leave. So many people come here to experience the lifestyle on a temporary basis: taking a year out, an extended holiday, passing through, living here for a few years etc. Because the population is so low out of season, we all inevitably get to know each other. Occasionally there is a diamond or maybe two amongst the transients; you fall in love with these new friends and bang, a year later, they up and leave, back to their real lives, leaving you a little bit heart-broken.

That’s tough. I should really work as an estate agent as I seem to spend half my life trying to persuade people to buy a house here!

Language Laughs Once again, I have managed to embarrass myself whilst speaking French (no surprise there!). Fortunately, I was talking to a female friend, when overwhelmed by the heat I told her “Je suis chaude”. Clearly I meant “J’ai chaud”, a schoolgirl mistake, with distinctly adult implications!

I really must take the time to have some lessons this winter!

You are welcome to visit us for tastings and sales. If we are at the property, we are open (between 2pm and 8pm).

However, as we are working across 10 hectares of land and often at markets, please call ahead if you want to be certain of a reception!

Domaine des Sangliers, Les Sarrades, 46700, Puy-l’Eveque Kim-Louis & Lisa Stanton, 05 65 31 61 25 06 04 03 34 12 info@domaine-des-sangliers.com www.organicfrenchblackwine.com

Busy B&G

B – Helps with all sorts of jobs

around the house – regular or one-offs. House-sitting, cleaning, de-cluttering, ironing.

G – Helps with gardening, maintenance, rubbish removal, odd jobs.

05 63 95 79 92 Bridget & Glenn Jackson (82150) busybusyb@hotmail.co.uk The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 27

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28 • the quercy local

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 29

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30 • quercy food and wine

A French Christmas

- a move from ‘all the trimmings’ to Le Réveillon

By Charlotte Buckingham

C

hristmas time is a time for family, celebration, food, love and merriment.

And although every family has their own unique way of celebrating Christmas, Christmas time is generally a very special time of the year which touches everyone.

After moving to France permanently last August I spent my first Christmas in France last year. It was a huge family affair (as it is every year), an oversized Christmas tree bursting with baubles, a mountain of mince pies and an explosion of colourful Christmas cards covering every surface. Not to mention the carol singing, crackers, present wrapping, fake snow, sparkly tinsel and party spirit!

Christmas planning started in September, guests coming from England had been ordered to stuff their suitcases full of British Christmas delights like ‘bisto’ gravy granules, cranberry sauce and Marks and Spencers’ Christmas puddings.

In my family the way we celebrate Christmas has never changed. My first Christmas was probably not so different from my last, and it occurred to me that even though we spent Christmas in France last year it was no different than our usual British Christmas, except for the fact we ate foie gras on Christmas day as a starter.

This year I would like to do Christmas slightly differently, I would like more of a French Christmas.

Not knowing an awful lot about French Christmas traditions I decided to do some research to find out if there are any differences and if possible, find a few ways to celebrate Noel, French style!

Here are my findings: Although Christmas in the UK and in France is very similar, there is one main difference between the two cultures; “Le Réveillon”. Le Réveillon (from the verb réveiller, to wake up or to revive) happens on Christmas Eve and is a symbolic awakening, meaning Christ’s birth. It is the culinary high point of the season, which may be enjoyed at home or in a restaurant.

Each region in France has its own traditional Christmas menu. The feast (which takes place in the evening) boasts the most luxurious produce. High The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

quality and expensive food is served, for example; oysters, fruits de la mer, foie gras, boudin blanc (similar to white pudding), goose, venison, turkey with chestnut stuffing, rabbit terrine, brouillade de truffes (omelet with truffles), roasted capon (a small bird), Aigo-boulido (garlic soup), papillottes (small chocolate candies wrapped in shiny paper) are all typical of the kind of food served as part of Le Réveillon.

Many families serve the “Buche de Noel” or yule log; a log-shaped cake made of chocolate and chestnuts.

Representative of the special wood log burned from Christmas Eve to New Year’s Day in the Périgord, which is a holdover from a pagan Gaul celebration.

At midnight, some French families attend la Messe de Minuit on Christmas Eve, which, for some, is still an important part of Christmas. After Réveillon, it’s customary to leave a candle burning in case the Virgin Mary passes by.

Interestingly, in France in1962, a law was passed decreeing that all letters written to Santa would be responded to with a postcard. For example, when a class writes a letter, each student gets a response.

Like English children with stockings, French children put their shoes in front of the fireplace, in the hopes that Père Noël (or, Papa Noël) will fill them with gifts. Traveling on a sleigh powered by reindeer, he wrestles with chimney pots in order to carry out his special deliveries.

In France, candy, fruit, nuts, and small toys will also be hung on the tree overnight. In some regions there’s also Père Fouettard, Father Christmas’ alter ego, there for the children who are not so well behaved!! (It is sort of the equivalent of Santa Claus giving coal to the naughty). As in the UK, French children wake up to open their presents on Christmas morning.

Christmas day is very similar. There’s a Christmas meal much like Le Réveillon and the day is spent enjoying time with family and close friends. Many people spend Christmas Day quietly and some attend a special church service.

In terms of Christmas decorations, the sapin de Noël or the Christmas tree is the main decoration in homes, streets, shops, offices, and factories. The sapin de Noël

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quercy food and Wine • 31

Christmas Vocabulary:

appeared in Alsace (before this region was incorporated into France) in the 14th century; decorated with apples, paper flowers, and ribbons, and was then introduced in France in 1837.

Another important aspect of French Christmas celebrations is the crèche filled with Santons, which is displayed in churches and many homes. “Santons” (manger figures) represent not only the holy family and wise men but local merchants too; they are often passed down through generations.

Mistletoe is hung above the door during the Christmas season to bring good fortune throughout the year.

So, in order to add a little French style to my Christmas this year, I am determined to introduce Le Réveillon. I have also decided that this year I am to set myself the challenge of cooking a traditional French feast. I have already scoured the internet looking for recipes (below is a recipe for chestnut stuffing for the turkey), I have started developing my Christmas vocabulary (as noted here) and I am determined to learn at least one Christmas carol in French. It makes Christmas all the more exciting this year! However, as willing as I am to embrace the French Noel, there is one tradition I am leaving for the French! I can wholeheartedly say that I will not be leaving a mince pie and glass of brandy out for Père Fouettard, he will definitely not be on my Christmas card list.

Advent calendar: Un calendrier de l’Avent Angel: Un ange Bad Father Christmas: Père Fouettard Candle: Une chandelle Christmas: Noël Christmas card: Une carte de Noël Christmas carol : Un noël, un chant de Noël Christmas Day: Le jour de Noël Christmas Eve: La veille de Noël Christmas feast: Le Réveillon Christmas loaf: Le pain calendeau Christmas party: La fête de Noël Christmas present: Un cadeau de Noël Christmas tree: Le sapin de Noël, l’arbre de Noël December: Décembre Epiphany, Twelfth Night: La Fête des Rois Happy Holidays!: Meilleurs vœux!

Manger: La crèche Merry Christmas!: Joyeux Noël ! (listen) Midnight Mass: La Messe de Minuit Miracle: Un miracle Mistletoe: Le gui New Year’s Day: Le Jour de l’An New Year’s Eve: La Saint-Sylvestre Present: Un cadeau Reindeer: Un renne Ribbon: Un ruban Santa Claus: Père Noël, Papa Noël Season’s greetings!: Meilleurs vœux !

Shepherd: Un berger Sleigh: Un traîneau Snow: La neige Snowball: Une boule de neige Snowman: Un bonhomme de neige White Christmas: Noël sous la neige Yule log: La bûche de Noël

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32 • quercy food and wine

Vive le Vent/Jingle Bells

French chestnut dressing

A French Carol – Un Chant de Noël Français

Enough to stuff a 12 to 14 pound turkey with extra to bake on the side.

Vive le vent, vive le vent, vive le vent d’hiver Qui s’en va, sifflant, soufflant Dans les grands sapins verts, Oh !

Vive le temps, vive le temps, vive le temps d’hiver Qui rappelle aux vieux enfants Leurs souvenirs d’hier !

Sur le long chemin Tout blanc de neige blanche Un vieux monsieur s’avance Avec sa canne dans la main

• 6 cups torn small pieces of baguette • 2 onions, chopped • 4 stalks of celery, chopped • 1 cup (250 grams) fresh chestnuts, shelled and peeled, chopped coarsely, or 2 cups vacuum-packed or jarred whole chestnuts, chopped coarsely • 7 ounces (200 grams) cubed lardons (pork fat), fried until crispy • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves • 3.5 tablespoons (50 grams) unsalted butter • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves

Et tout là-haut le vent Qui siffle dans les branches Lui souffle la romance qu’il chantait petit enfants.

Method Preheat oven to 400 degrees 1. With a sharp knife cut a slit on the round side of each chestnut or pierce with a fork.

2. Spread chestnuts in one layer on an oven tray and bake in a hot oven at around 400°F until skins break open, usually in about 10 minutes.

3. Remove the chestnuts a handful at a time. Shell and peel while still hot.

4. In a shallow baking pan arrange the bread pieces in one layer, bake in the oven, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes, or until they are golden, and transfer to a large bowl.

5. In a large pan, fry the lardons until crispy then remove.

6. In the same large pan, melt butter and cook onions, celery, sage and thyme over moderately low heat, stirring, until the onions are softened.

7. Add chestnuts to the large pan mixture and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

8. Add the chestnut and vegetable mixture to the bread pieces in the large bowl and toss the mixture well.

Stir in the parsley.

9. Add salt and pepper to taste, and let the stuffing cool completely.

Stuffing may be made one day in advance and kept covered and chilled.

(Courtesy of www.bonjourparis.com)

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 33

TAC PROPERTY SERVICES ‘Think of us as part of you – working in partnership’ We are a property maintenance and cleaning company registered in France. We can provide a complete range of services to clients who either live here permanently or who own a second property in France.

TAC Property Services has had many years of experience as Property Managers; we provide a service that is competively priced, reliable and respectful of your property.

Siret No. 502 126 550 000 16

Please visit our website to see the full range of services that we provide Contact: 05 63 39 55 97 email: tacservices@orange.fr www.tacpropertyservices.com

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34 • the quercy local

Customise your home with ancient doors, decorative friezes & antique furniture...

V

iviane has always worked with and appreciated antique wooden furniture. Her interest started with the importation of antique doors, heavy furniture, sideboards/dressers and desks (all with the character and patina that only time can create) and so Bastide Gallery was born! The shop, crammed with delights for those that love the look and feel of real wood, has been developed in an old barn next to Viviane’s home, just on the outskirts of Tournon D’Agenais; (mid-way between Cahors and Agen).

If you are looking for an original object to customise your house’s interior, perhaps an ancient door reflecting your rural area setting or a wooden frieze that you can transform into a one-off bed-head. Or, if you are thinking of creating a cupboard and you want to respect the age and character of your home then do call and see Viviane and see her cupboards or the cupboard doors she has restored.

Viviane has already done the travelling and searching to find the items to help you complete your project or enhance your home. In naming her shop Bastide Gallery, Viviane hopes that people will realise that they are welcome to call in and have a look, you are welcome to browse.

Displayed amongst all the Gallery’s larger wooden treasures you’ll find a great selection of intriguing gifts and accessories, something for all budgets and a great selection of ideas for great Christmas presents.

You can contact Viviane via her website: www.bastidegallery.com or Tel: 05 53 41 36 92

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 35

Gifts, Furniture & Antiques Just outside Tournon in a converted barn, Viviane has an amazing display of furniture, antiques, and many different gift ideas (large and small). You are welcome to come and just have a look around.

The gallery’s interior both welcomes and inspires – so for that perfect present or pieces of furniture for your French home do come and have a look.

Planning a project? Viviane imports antique doors, furniture, interior trims and friezes, many are on display in the gallery.

See the website for more information: www.bastidegallery.com

route de Cahors 47370 Tournon d’Agenais tel: 05 53 41 36 92 info@bastidegallery.com

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

36 • the quercy local

A young man’s check list for avoiding being invited back to visit his parents’ friends’ house in France!

By Ginnie Brett

Most people will have had family and friends to stay over the summer months. Each group presumably bringing with it, its own set of joys and horrors! Here, Ginnie who has clearly had a ‘less than commendable’ experience puts pen to paper to express (rather tongue-in-cheek) the plan she felt her rather rude visitor must be following to make a truly bad impression. Maybe some of what Ginnie has experienced will resonate with you!

I

never want to go back anyway – they didn’t give me my own bedroom, and always threw me out of the bathroom, which disturbed my creative process greatly.

And my host banished my guitar-playing to the village viewing platform up the hill. I gave their children each a toy upon arrival, and gave my hosts some Brie that I found in the local Carrefour just before I left.

I’ve been a perfect guest – but here are some tips to ensure that I’m never embarrassed by an invitation for a return visit to this boring village and no-fun parental friends.

1. Don’t say ‘hello’ or ‘goodbye’ when entering or exiting a room.

2. Talk only about yourself and do not feign interest in your hosts’ lives, discuss current affairs or topics of intellectual interest. They are boring old people and it would be hypocritical to do so.

3. Raid your hosts’ refrigerator between meals – take food from shelves and/or refrigerator without first asking. Sneak your hosts’ children’s ice cream bars when hosts are not looking. Do not purchase any replacement when you inexplicably find yourself in a grocery store. If you’re really hungry, peruse any other guests’ shopping bags – I found some tasty things myself!

4. If your hostess asks you to please put the toilet seat down and flush the toilet after a pee because she’s trying to train her boys’ to do the same, just ignore her and continue to leave the toilet un-flushed and the seat up – it saves water if one doesn’t flush every time, and why should females always expect to have the seat down?

5. After being offered food on a plate, take all that is left on the plate and transfer to your own plate. I’m a growing young man with a ravenous appetite.

6. Do inspect each piece of fruit that is on a plate, checking to see which is perfect for you. If your host suggests cutting out a bruised spot from the fruit you have been inspecting, politely decline and pick up the other pieces of fruit one by one to examine for any imperfections.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 37

7. If someone is passing a plate at the dinner table in front of you, don’t help pass it along to the intended recipient – why bother? You are not the final destination for this plate of food.

8. If you are offered something to eat for breakfast and don’t like it or can’t eat it, just forage around and make something else for yourself. I was offered cereal and milk for breakfast, but informed my host that I was lactose-intolerant. She suggested that I eat toast and jam instead, but I fooled her – the next morning I woke up early and made myself a stellar breakfast of fried eggs and toasted French bread with butter with nectarines on the side.

Couldn’t locate a skillet, so just fried them up in a saucepan. By the way, don’t do any dishes – it might set a precedent!

9. Do not notify your parents’ friends’ or cancel your visit to their home if you just contracted bed bugs in Spain – they won’t notice until after you leave anyway.

10. Refresh yourself frequently in the only bathroom – do not notice that your hosts are frantically trying to get ready for a reservation for a birthday dinner, late because you were a tiny bit tardy coming down from a hike in the hills, leaving your hostess sitting in her car below in a parking lot, wondering when you would return.

11. Entertain your hosts by singing in the bathroom while they wait out in the corridor.

12. Wear only your boxer shorts around the house – why not?

You’ve got a great physique!

13. Go into the children’s room and take their electric guitar out to play. Don’t bother trying to teach the boys’ any new chords – that would take far too much time, and disrupt your creative flow. Your time is better spent entertaining the household with your delicate strumming and haunting lyrics. (My host took me to hear some local rock bands – they were singing songs in English, but couldn’t even say the words properly! My singing is so much better!) Playing guitar at the breakfast table is best,

but next best is the garden where all the neighbors can hear.

For some bizarre reason my hostess asked me not to play in the garden – something about their immediate neighbors only being in residence two or three weeks of the year, but I think my music must surely help them relax and entertain them.

14. Don’t offer to pay for any groceries or contribute to the household food supply. Even though I’m their fourth guest this summer, they’re old enough to be my parents and so should take care of me as my parents would. I mean, they took me to a really expensive restaurant (8 euro for a meal!) the day my hostess drove another guest and me an hour away to see an expensive castle (9 euro entrance fee – outrageous!) I told the others I wasn’t hungry, and would just drink water – I obviously didn’t have any money. They offered to lend me money for the lunch or take me to an ATM machine, but really now, I’ve got to save for my trip to Italy. Luckily, there was a basket of bread on the table, which accompanied the other guest’s salad, so I ate all that, and my hostess didn’t eat all her lunch, so I ate that, too. I don’t find French food that exciting – I don’t know what all the fuss is about.

I mainly eat ham and cheese sandwiches when I’m out on the road, between hosts – boring.

15. When my hosts are cleaning the house and preparing dinner for 8 guests and desserts for 25 guests, I offer to set the table, but was turned down – something about the wind in the garden blowing things about. The other guest, a 60-year-old woman with bad knees, hauled a bag of glass bottles to a glass recycling center to help out. What a chump!

16. Do not say ‘thank you’ to your hostess when she sees you off – she might mistakenly think that you had a good time!

Anyway, she could have driven me to the train station instead of making me a take a bus! Bummer – the bus was late and I missed my train! Also realized that I left my flip-flops behind as well as my toothbrush and toothpaste – wonder if my hosts will mail them to me? Already planning my next trip to Europe – I’ve met so many people this trip, I bet I can stay for free the entire summer!

For all your events, weddings, or simply for a great evening of music – JAZZMAGNAC is available to perform throughout the SW of France.

Made up of highly experienced and seasoned performers from all over the region – JAZZMAGNAC can guarantee a great time and atmosphere.

Contact Jean-Claude on Tél: 05.62.65.62.85 or email: escalejc@gmail.com www.jazzmagnac.com To advertise with us email info@quercylocal.com

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

38 • the quercy local

ROBERT GREY l ac hé tour non d’ a genais 47370 0553400489 0675518913 mo b 0635935347 mo b grey. robert@orange.fr

G R EY S

for

Carpentry, joinery, roofing, bespoke kitchens and furniture, stairs, doors, flooring.

Timber-frame houses, property renovation and barn conversions.

Charpentier * Menuisier * Couverture * Maison Bois

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 39

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

40 • quiet reflection

La Toussaint (All Saints Day)

By Angela Clohessy

N

ovember 1st is a very important date in the French calendar, also called La Toussaint or All Saints Day: in fact, the whole of the week leading up to November 1st is often referred to as La Toussaint.

This Catholic holiday honours all the saints recognised by the Roman Catholic Church.

Many Christians attend special church services on All Saints’ Day. La Toussaint is usually celebrated in France by the bringing of flowers to the graves of deceased loved ones. Chrysanthemums are an important symbol of All Saints’ Day, grief and funerals.

They are often laid on graves, but rarely given as gifts. It is very important for the non-French to understand this as it is considered a social ‘faux pas’ to give chrysanthemums at anytime other than La Toussaint – taking them as a dinner party gift is a huge no-no.

All Saints Day is a day for celebrating the lives of departed relatives and praying for the happiness of their souls. Women in mourning often clean and decorate the graves of their family members during this week. Churches are also specially decorated around November 1st, as many people pay an extra visit to church at this time, even those people that rarely attend church at other times of the year.

In France, this holiday falls during the autumn school holidays, so it is a popular time for families to take a short holiday and visit relatives living in other areas; to generally spend time with family members and close friends.

Public life in France is generally very quiet on All Saints’ Day. Post offices, banks, shops and other businesses are closed. Outside of tourist areas, restaurants and cafes may also be closed for one or more days.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

If you don’t have deceased relatives in France, but you are in the country on this holiday, take advantage of the beautiful free flower displays in the cemeteries.

Places like Père-Lachaise cemetery (Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, where you can also stop by and see the decorated grave of Jim Morrison) and Montparnasse cemetery in Paris are great places to walk around, people-watch and take photographs.

Although it may sound like a sad day, La Toussaint is actually seen as a very positive date – people celebrate the lives of their loved ones and it is not really a sad occasion, more of a respectful and happy day.

Auberge de Miramont (Chez Bernadette) 82190

A very popular restaurant serving local specialities in lovely, cosy dining-room and in summer on the beautiful terrace.

Great atmosphere and food.

Popular for Great value lunches and special evening meals – reservations recommended Stephane & Karen look forward to welcoming you.

Miramont de Quercy

0563946557

www.aubergedemiramont.com – check opening hours

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quiet reflection • 41

Borne de Memoire – road side memorials

By Angela Clohessy

H

istorically, roadside memorials were personal, but there is a modern trend toward public memorials of an increasingly large size. A roadside memorial is a marker that usually commemorates a site where a person died, away from home, suddenly and unexpectedly.

Unlike a grave headstone a memorial marks the last place on earth a person was alive. These borne de memoire are increasingly evident along the roadsides in France.

The phenomenon of roadside memorials may be associated with another trend; the public outpouring of grief for celebrities. The death of Diana, Princess of Wales, for example, precipitated an avalanche of flowers and wreaths at the Pont de l’Alma road tunnel in Paris (the site of her death) Kensington Palace and Buckingham Palace. While most car-crash victims are rarely so well-known, this outpouring of public emotion may be partly responsible for the growing popularity of roadside memorials.

Usually the memorial is created and maintained by family members or friends of the person who has died. A common type of memorial is simply a bunch of flowers, real or plastic, taped to street furniture or a tree trunk. A handwritten message, personal mementos etc. may be included. More sophisticated memorials may be a memorial cross or a plaque with an inscription, decorated with flowers or wreaths.

The roadside memorial may also support the family and friends of the deceased. Families want others in the community to remember what happened and a roadside memorial becomes a daily reminder to all who see it. Additionally, getting together to decorate it aids the healing process for those involved. Roadside memorials have become a grassroots method for communities to share their grief publicly – an extension of the grief process.

Roadside memorials serve a variety of purposes.

Firstly, they remind motorists to slow down and or to watch for pedestrians, children playing and cyclists.

Perhaps flowers are a less invasive or hazardous road-safety message than road signs saying ‘X people killed on this road in X years’ commonly used by the authorities themselves.

In some areas, black silhouettes are installed on the roads to symbolize the victims of road accidents and

serve as a reminder to drivers against risky behavior.

These black silhouettes are installed on the roadside by the authorities in various (but not all) departments in France. The silhouettes indicate the location of a life wasted on the road. It may be shocking but it can make drivers more attentive and even slow down. However, we have to also accept that there is another view about this and sometimes the sight of a silhouetted figure can revive a family’s suffering.

There is an argument that temporary or permanent road-death memorials are a distraction, but this is moot point when you consider how many other distractions there are on the edge of our roads, some of them floral (for example, colourful flower beds planted on verges and on roundabouts by local authorities, sometimes spelling out the name of a town or a message).

Are you distracted by these memorials or do you find them a timely reminder of the grief caused by speed?

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

42 • quiet reflection

Seasonal Information from the Anglican Church in Cahors Harvest Festival “We plough the fields and scatter the good seed on the land, But it is fed and watered

by God’s almighty hand” And so stirs memories of childhood, school assemblies and tins of baked beans, fruit and vegetables in boxes to be taken to school or church. This much loved and very popular festival is actually pagan in origin and often more people attend church at Harvest than Easter or Christmas!

The Harvest Service at Terre Rouge – the Anglican Church in Cahors – takes place on Sunday October 14th at 10am and is Holy Communion followed by a bring-and-share lunch afterwards. All are welcome and being in France we celebrate the wine harvest too!! Our donations go to Secours Catholique – the homeless charity in Cahors.

All Saints and All Souls Day – Sunday 4th November 2012 – Terre Rouge Two years ago at Terre Rouge in Cahors, the Anglican Church held a very special service for the first time – the All Saints and All Souls Service. This coincided with our French Catholic friends’ celebration of la Toussaint when the dead are remembered all over France by the placing of chrysanthemums on family graves.

We named aloud all those people who had died in the previous 10 years and those whom members of the congregation wished to remember. There were over 70 such named people and every name received a white rose to symbolise peace. These white roses were then placed in a large container holding a single red rose to symbolise the love of Christ. After the service, several of the white roses were taken by relatives and friends to be kept and dried as a memoire.

Many people had thought the service would be unbearably sad but there was a certain joy as we prayed and remembered our loved ones.

Remembrance Sunday At Terre Rouge we always have a traditional Remembrance Sunday service with the 2 minutes silence, but it is worth remembering that France, our The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

adopted country suffered horrendous casualties and deaths too – on their own soil. Remembrance Day (11 November) is a national holiday in France.

It commemorates the armistice signed between the Allies and Germany at Compiègne, for the cessation of hostilities on the Western Front, which took effect at 11:00 a.m. in the morning—the “eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month.” Armistice Day is one the most important military celebrations in France, since it was a major French victory and the French paid a heavy price in blood to achieve it. The First World War was considered in France as the “Great Patriotic War”.

Almost all French villages feature memorials dedicated to those fallen during the conflict. In France the blue cornflower (bleuet) is used symbolically rather than the poppy.

A month of wonders We know – we know it’s only October and Christmas is a long way away – 3 months in fact! Although the build up to the commercial Christmas is much later in France (thank goodness), many other Associations have to start making their Christmas arrangements and the Congregation at Terre Rouge are no exception.

December announces Advent, the beginning of the Church Year and the celebration that follows with the birth of Jesus is celebrated here by the Anglican church with four Carol Services before Christmas and an Epiphany Carol service after Christmas – throughout the area of Cahors, north, east south and west – hopefully somewhere for everyone to celebrate the joy of Christmas. There is also an Ecumenical Service where all the churches get together for a carol service.

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quiet reflection • 43

Is drinking costing more than money?

Please put these dates in your diary now!

Most of the Carol Services have carols and readings in French and English, they follow the traditional 9 Lessons and Carols format and everyone is welcome – there is wine and mince pies afterwards – a delightful way to spend an afternoon or an evening. The dates and venues are as follows – Remember to wrap up warmly – church buildings can be chilly places, but the welcome will be as warm as toast.

Alcoholics Anonymous

If you or someone you know has a drinking problem, there are now a number of English-speaking meetings of A.A. in the SW of France. Our primary purpose is to stay sober and help other alcoholics to achieve sobriety. Contact: Ewen 05 53 05 76 62, Ken 09 67 01 74 60 E-mail Publicinfo.swfrance@aa-europe.net Or check our website at www.aafrancesud-ouest.com.

December 9th – Ecumenical Service Cahors – Sacré Coeur 15.00 December 13th – Carol Service Belveze 15.00 December 16th – Carol Service Terre Rouge, Cahors 10.00 December 18th – Carol Service Le Vigan 19.00 January 11th Epiphany – Carol Service Prayssac 15.00 There will also be a service of Holy Communion on Christmas Day at Terre Rouge at 10am.

For further details on all the above services please visit our website www.escotc.com – (the Service Diary page for Cahors) or contact Martin Milnes on martin.milnes@alsatis.net

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

44 • quiet reflection

The Poppy ¶ Remembrance Day

Y

ou may wonder, as we again approach Armistice Day, what were the origins of the Poppy emblems that appear each year.

Strangely enough, whereas today the Poppy is construed as being a typically British construct, its origins were the initiatives of four WW1 allies from Canada, America, France and England. Firstly, a Canadian Military Doctor, Colonel John McCrae, during a short lull at the front in 1915 scribbled the following poem.

In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks still bravely singing fly Scarce heard among the guns below.

We are the dead. Short days ago We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, Loved and were loved, and now we lie In Flanders fields Take up our quarrel with the foe; To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high.

If ye break faith with us who die We shall not sleep, though poppies grow In Flanders fields.

This was published anonymously in Punch and it greatly impressed an American lady, Miss Moira Michael, who replied to it with another poem and decided that the poppy should become the symbol of Remembrance for those who had given their lives. Then a French lady Madame Guérin had the idea of getting artificial poppies made to sell to help war victims.

In 1921, the year of the first Poppy Appeal, Field Marshal Earl Haig (who had been Commander in Chief in France) became the Founder President of the British Legion (which became Royal in 1971). He wanted to help the ex-servicemen, women and their families, not only financially but also to try and provide them with work. The first poppies sold were obtained from a French organisation which used its profits to help children in the war-devastated areas. However, in 1922 Earl Haig started making poppies with a team of five disabled ex-servicemen, today more than one hundred people are employed in the manufacture of millions The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

of poppies, thousands of wreaths and hundreds of thousands of wooden crosses.

Poppy sales and donations have today reached more than £37 million, which has allowed numerous people to benefit in some way from RBL help. Providing this help remains the aim of the RBL and that is why we are so faithful to our little poppies and are proud to wear them. www.britishlegion.org.uk/branches/bordeaux/

The Royal British Legion in France (Bordeaux Branch) – more volunteers needed This Branch (which covers most of the region covered by The Quercy and Gascony Local magazines) is one of the most successful overseas branches in the annual Poppy Appeal collection; with over 150 collectors visiting well-over 300 places every year. Whilst many areas are well covered by our band of volunteer ‘Poppy Sellers’ there are many other areas where it is not possible for British residents to be able to obtain a poppy at Remembrance Time. It only takes up a few days and is very much appreciated by those who wish to contribute to the appeal. To find out more about how you can help, please do get in touch with Gordon Merrett on gordon.merrett@wanadoo.fr

Remembrance Services Sunday 11th November

1. RBL Remembrance Service, at the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery, Talence, Bordeaux.

This is the official RBL remembrance service for SW France and includes Commonwealth and US Forces.

2. Church Service at Monteton, 47120, near Duras.

Both services starting at 10.30 am

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the quercy local • 45

QUERCY GASCOGNE IMMOBILIER www.quercycascogne.fr

Welcome to the beautiful and sought-after Quercy region of South West France.

DO YOUR BIT – HELP OUR HEROES www.helpforheroes.org.uk Registered charity number 1120920

Airport Transport Gardening Holiday Changeovers Washing & Ironing

The FOURNIER-SABATIER family and their colleagues at QUERCY GASCOGNE offer a bi-lingual service and have all types of houses for sale from traditional stone-built houses to manor houses, châteaux and presbyteries, village and modern houses. We have offices in both Montcuq and Montaigu-de-Quercy covering a vast area including the Lot, Lot-et-Garonne, Tarn-et-Garonne and the Tarn. www.quercycascogne.fr Agence de Montaigu de Quercy 2 place du mercadiel, 82150 MONTAIGU DE QUERCY Tel : 05.63.39.54.59 Agence de Montcuq 10 rue de la promenade, 46800 MONTCUQ Tel : 05.65.22.90.31 Valérie SABATIER , agent immobilier ,carte prof N° 46183.

FRENCH PROPERTY ASSISTANCE 05 63 31 78 51 06 04 48 05 24

Building & Maintenance Key Holding Security Pool Maintenance

Full time resident or holiday home owner? French Property Assistance exists to help you, to provide every assistance to you in the maintenance of your house, pool and garden. First established in France in 1993. Give us a call – let us know your requirements and we will help you with just about anything! (82160) www.frenchpropertyassistance.com

chloe@frenchpropertyassistance.com

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

46 • history

Auvillar

a historical village with a colourful trading history

By A Atkinson

S

ituated on a rocky outcrop and over-looking the powerful and sweeping Garonne River, Auvillar is one of France’s most beautiful villages and has been in existence since GalloRoman times. The main part of this village with its stunning circular halle, unique clock tower and beguiling church, can be found high up above the river’s flow. It’s the important lower ‘port’ area, however, that has proved critical to the prosperity of this village. Situated between Toulouse and Bordeaux (with its access onwards to the colonies and the world at large) Auvillar was perfectly located (during the centuries of transportation by river) to produce and distribute its wares. Tolls were collected on the river at Auvillar and this meant that all vessels had to stop there; evidence shows these payments being made as far back as 1204.

The Quercy Local • June-Sept 2012

Boats from Bordeaux (batellerie) would arrive, sailing upstream, originally pulled by men in harness and then later by oxen and horses; these would bring salt from the sea. The boats sailing down-stream would be carrying primarily wine, grain, pottery, goose feathers and even the precious crop of woad. To illustrate how busy this little river port was (in 1841) 411 tons of goods were passed daily and, in 1837, there were a total of 2256 vessels travelling between Agen and Auvillar! Today, if you sit on the grassy riverbank it’s hard to envisage the noise, smells and activity that must have prevailed then.

At the port there remains a chapel, now sadly dilapidated, which was dedicated to the patron saint of river mariners and philosophers; Saint Catherine of Alexandria. This chapel is believed to have been built in the ‘Carolingian’ period. It’s just possible to see, a monogram of Christ dating from the 9th century, above the main chapel door.

By 1789 there were 49 boating families living in the village and forming a settled-core amongst the additional transient river-folk. Since the middle ages Auvillar has attracted artists, serving as a centre for poets (and in the medieval times – troubadours), painters, calligraphers, sculptors, musicians and ceramicists. If you then add to this mix the many pilgrims that would halt here on their pilgrimage, following the route of Saint Jacques of Compostella, you can start to imagine the sort of atmosphere that would have filled the narrow streets and crowded taverns.

Importantly, by 1700 there were between 300 and 400 potters in Auvillar, fulfilling a new national demand for earthenware pottery. This national demand had been instigated by Louis X1V (who’d created a large budget deficit with his war-mongering) and so he raised money by insisting that all the nobility, clergy and middleclasses hand over their gold and silverware, which included a large number of items used as crockery to be smelted for funds. Replacement crockery was, therefore, needed all over France!

Having an efficient transport system wasn’t the only factor that encouraged the development of this industry here in Auvillar – there was also a good supply of the

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history • 47

The museum in Auvillar exhibits examples of this pottery and it makes a great starting point for anyone interested in the fascinating development of this locally produced antiquity. A quick search on the internet will produce a selection of items for collectors, this is also a great way to familiarise yourself with the different designs, all of which could tempt any reformed pottery collectors back to their art.

For more information on the Museum de Faience (and all other aspects of local history – particularly ‘life on the river’) do see www.auvillar.com.

15th April – 15th Oct 2.30 – 6.30 (except Mon) 16th Oct – 14th April 2.30 – 5.30 (weekends only) Dec and Jan (by appointment).

If you still need a reason to visit Auvillar – here are a couple of seasonal excuses for you: 13th and 14th Oct – Pottery Market – see over 60 exhibitors in the Place de Halle.

This is the 20th anniversary of this very popular market.

basic raw ingredients. Clay and chalk were waiting to be quarried from the ground immediately surrounding Auvillar. This was then purified, kneaded, washed and sifted before being stored for up to 5-6 months.

Over a period of over 200 years different illustrative styles of this earthenware pottery were produced, the earliest were coloured simply with blue and then other colours and glazes were gradually introduced; after the French Revolution the palate opened up even further with the additions of particularly red and orange.

There are typical styles of Auvillaraise-illustration, most obviously is a common floral design, often with roses or tulips, and normally in the centre of the plate or piece.

Other designs included simple birds or landscapes, often a river-scene. Huge quantities of this earthenware were produced, indeed in 1848, some 1,300,000 items were manufactured.

Once you have examined a few pieces of this faience pottery you’ll soon find you can recognise it again. Faience was the name given to the tinglazed earthenware, found across France, Germany, Scandinavia and Spain. Similar items, produced in Italy, were called majolica and those produced in England and the Netherlands were known as delft. The last of the factories closed in 1905; unable to compete with the new larger mass-producing centres such as those found in Limoges.

Sat. 8th Dec 3.00 – 10.00pm – The Christmas Market in the Place de Halle. With lots of local artisans and stalls offering gift ideas, illuminations and a great Christmas spirit, if you love Christmas, this is something not to miss.

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

48 • the quercy local

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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history • 49

QUERCY’S ROMAN ROADS PART IV

By Angela Richards

T

he short loop with modern villas on the outskirts of St Amans de Pech runs parallel to the D656 then crosses over at about 500 metres from the village. On the other side of the road the voie is no longer visible being ploughed out. We were able to travel on to park the cars and picked up the voie on the edge of some woods.

This part of the voie is marked on the local IGN (Ordnance Survey) map as the old Chemin d’Agen a Cahors.

We came out of the woods across the plateau between the fields. Photo (c) shows a clear Y junction, the route on the right leads on towards Roquecor passing near the Windmill, and is probably medieval.

The one on the left is the voie romaine which we followed till it disappeared in ploughed out fields. As you can see from the many photos and maps, the voie romaine follows the higher areas of the plateaux and ridges. It is interesting to note that in doing so there are fewer small streams, brooks, or rivers to cross. We were informed by Michel Daynes that all the rain falling to the left of the voie works its way into the various streams ends up in the Lot river and to the right into the river Garonne.

A

D

We picked the voie up again on the other side of the road near the hamlet of Falgayras, only to lose it at La Tuque on the brow of the hill.

B

We believe the chemin we followed through the woods is more recent, the actual voie with occasional glimpses of the ditches either side, runs parallel to the left of photos (a) and (b).

We were able to see the trace of the road using www.flashearth.com where the trace in the field was a clearly visible crop mark.

Using the modern map we parked at the intersection of the voie with the modern road that comes up from Roquecor (just before it junctions with the D656) and followed it along the side of an orchard arriving at a large ploughed field showing white traces of smashed stones, but no obvious voie.

C

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E

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

50 • history

As we surveyed the fields in front of us freshly ploughed and very muddy, we realised that even with walking boots if we attempted to cross the field we would end up totally bogged down.

We checked our maps again, and decided to take the cars and park at the car park near the Montaigu/ Valeilles/Tournon roundabout to approach from the other direction. We walked along what we were sure was the right track-way to get opposite to where we had stopped and although no traces were visible we are confident, using the evidence of old maps, that we were still following the voie.

H

The group surveying a pile of nicely shaped stones and wishing for a trailer!

I

F

You can follow the voie and pin-point the photos on the hand drawn map above.

The section covering photos (g), (h), and (i) leads up to the D47 where the voie continues on the other side of the D47 and crosses over the D656 to La Gardette and is clearly visible on modern maps a short distance to the north from the Montaigu/ Valeilles/Tournon roundabout.

From here for a couple of kilometres we were unable to park the cars or find much trace of the voie, though parts are marked on both old and modern maps.

G

So confident that the track-way was on or beside the original voie we turned round and walked back to the D42. There were indications of long parallel ditch lines from time to time in the ploughed fields indicating that in certain areas the voie is beside and not under the current track-way.

Somewhere along this stretch there is a divide in the voie where a medieval road continues on towards Tournon d’Agenais (which did not exist at the time of the Romans) and the voie crosses over the D656 again and after a short distance goes uphill swinging off to the right in the area of Laboissiere.

Inside the scrub land and woods beside the current track-way we found distinct channels in the undergrowth indicating that the voie is again not under but beside the modern track. This is hard to distinguish in photos.

In photo (h) you can see Fiona standing in the bottom of one of the ditches.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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1878 Map

history • 51

We are still studying this area and Fiona has ‘volunteered’ to walk here again to try and tie down the exact point where the road forks. This area of the voie is shown on part of the 1878 map sourced from the Archives of Lot & Garonne.

NOT TO BE MISSED! ST DAUNES nr MONTCUQ, 46800 KOOL FOR KATZ – for the third year, an evening of blues, folk and country with Mark Newman and Hartstring in aid of Chats du Quercy. Sat. 24th Nov. at 7pm. Tickets 20e to include apero and 2 course supper. For reservations contact: Pat Nordon-Angus 05 65 35 18 92 or patricia.lockett@orange.fr

BARN BOOK SALE

J

This photo shows the group following a modern chemin having just crossed over from the other side of the D656 from what we believe is a medieval track-way that went to Tournon. The actual voie Romaine can be see half way up the photo to the right as a dark raised line covered the entire length with trees. This crosses over another old ‘voie’ (probably Medieval that has come up from the Seoune Valley ) and goes up hill to join the modern road that comes from Anthé to Gouts (north of Montaigu de Quercy).

To be held at Beliben, a tiny hamlet next to Sauzet, Lot, (look out for the balloons) on Sat 20th Oct, 10am to 3pm (ish). All books and dvd’s 1e each.

Yummy scrumptious cakes to eat there or take away. All proceeds to go to Poorpaws Dog Rescue (and other refuges) and Cancer Research.

For more details contact Sue on 0565245303 / susan.glibbery@orange.fr. If you have books to donate please contact for collection and please come along and stock up on your winter fireside reading.

Sand, Gravel and Crushed Limestone – available from 3 sites (St Denis Catus, Cahors & Crayssac).

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This last photo shows David and Brian at this junction, where we will start from in Part V. Members of the group on the outings for Part IV of the survey were Michel Daynes, Brian Gauntlett, David Marshall, John Massey (with Harley), Fiona and David Neville, Romain Raphael-Leygues, Angie Richards, Pat and John Richardson.

Anyone interested in joining us on our survey or hearing about our progress can be added to our mailing list. Please contact Angie Richards 05 53 67 66 39 angerichards@aol.com To advertise with us email info@quercylocal.com

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

52 • history

Through a rather ancient keyhole!

I f you’ve ever travelled from Valance D’Agen in the direction of Auvillar you may well have noticed the gradual transformation that has been taking place of the Chateau de Lastours at Espalais (82400). Visitors to the golf course at Espalais may well have noticed the Chateau and its grounds which adjoin the golf course.

The Chateau de Lastours dates back (in part) to the 13th century and remained in the same noble family (De Carmentran D’Espalais) from its early creation to the early 1900s. The structure includes a magnificent 4 storey round tower which was added during the era of Napoleon 11 in approximately 1845. The east wing houses its own unique chapel and the stunning Salon Dore which was designed by Violett-le-Duc (famous for amongst other things – the renovation of Carcassonne) in the 1840s.

The last century saw many changes for the Chateau; it was occupied during the Second World War by German SS forces, but thankfully it was left undamaged. After the war, the property was purchased by a local farmer during which time the building fell into a state of extreme disrepair. The turn of the century saw a potential rescue when a European banker and his family bought the Chateau and attempted to rescue the structure and bring new life to the ancient buildings, these works ceased when the family experienced financial difficulties.

Then, nine years ago, Joe Muscat (whose maternal family originated from the Albi region of France but who was himself raised and schooled in London) purchased the Chateau and has been overseeing its renovation ever since. Joe (whose British business interests started in silk screen printing and moved onto commercial property development) has transformed the Chateau into a French home for his family but also as a facility enhancing the tiny village of Espalais.

Lastours is now welcoming visitors to its self-catering apartments and bed and breakfast rooms and will soon be offering a stunning venue for wedding receptions and business conferences. Whilst these are new ventures, you cannot help considering how much business has been conferred over during the last 700 years and also how many weddings the building has witnessed during this same period. It is clear that this redevelopment and the commitment to renewing and repairing the fabric

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

of this old building will breathe new life into this great example of local history.

Joe can be contacted on: contact@chateaudelastours.eu. www.chateadelastours.eu Have you an old property which has been restored or renewed – why not let us know?

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history • 53

Quercy Builders (82150) Stone work and all aspects of renovation Subcontractors to the trade and a professional service to the public References available No obligation quotations

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

54 • history

Occitan

a waning romanticism

By Charlotte Buckingham

The French regions Occitan covers include: Limousin, Auvergne, Midi-Pyrenees Languedoc-Roussillion, Aquitaine, Provence Alpes, Cote d’Azur

Occitan cities include: Nice, Marseilles, Montpellier, Clermont Ferrand Limoges, Toulouse, Pau, Bordeaux

O

n the corner of the street next to where I live there is a sign; which shows the name of the road in two languages. Every time I noticed the sign I wondered what the second unfamiliar language was (I presumed it was Spanish) and why it was written there but I never really questioned beyond this.

Until, when one day my 4 year-old daughter, Poppy, came home from school singing a song in what sounded like a mixture of French and Spanish, I questioned again this mysterious language. When I asked Poppy what she was singing she quite simply said “Mummy it is Occitan!” Occitan, I later found out was taught weekly at the primary school. Since then I have started to research this language, look at its roots and origins and question its existence.

Occitan is an official language. It also known as ‘Lenga d’Oc’ by its native speakers, its name derives from the word ‘Oc’ which means ‘Yes’ in Occitan.

The Romance language is a result of the evolution of spoken Latin after the fall of the Roman Empire.

With striking similarities to Catalan, it is not only spoken in our region of France, but in many other parts of Southern France, Italy’s Occitan valleys, Guardia Piemontese (Calabria) Italy, Monaco and Catalonia’s Val d’Aran. These regions are sometimes unofficially known as Occitania.

The Quercy Local • June-Sept 2012

Occitan is not a primitive form of French, Occitan and French are two distinctly different languages which formed themselves independently out of Latin.

Well into the 20th century Occitan was still an everyday language for most of the population of rural France, however this has been replaced by the systematic imposition of the French language (which is considered the language of the state).

According to the 1999 census, there are 610,000 native speakers (almost all of whom are native French speakers) and perhaps another million with exposure to the language.

A group of Occitan activists (Occitanists) have been campaigning to reintroduce the language to the young population, Occitan is also taught in some primary schools (although this is not a legal requirement). Indeed, in some Occitan areas street signs are marked with Occitan to remind people of the traditional language.

Unfortunately however, the use of Occitan is in serious decline and is considered an endangered language according to UNESCO Red Book of

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history • 55

Endangered Languages. This means that only the elderly population speaks the language fluently and is not passing the language to their children or grandchildren.

Due to its geographical location, the language of Occitan has been preserved. This Romance language is spoken in areas surrounded by mountains, rivers and arable land. The region is naturally isolated and population constant with some Occitan speaking folk descending from people living in the regions since prehistory.

The oldest written fragment of the language ever found dates back to the year 960 AD; an official text, mixed with Latin. Other famous pieces of Occitan include The Boecis, a 258 line long poem written between 1000-1030 AD and inspired by Boethius’ Consolation of Philosophy.

Occitan was a language much celebrated throughout most of educated Europe and considered a language of great influence and great value in literature and for writing poetry in particular. The troubadours used Occitan as a vehicle to compose and perform their lyric poetry during the High Middle Ages. The troubadours’ songs and poems dealt mainly with themes of courtly love and chivalry. The French word troubadour was first recorded in 1575 in an

historical context to mean “langue d’oc poet at the court in the 12th and 13th century”.

However, with the increase in strength of French Royal power over its territory the Occitan language declined in status. Also during the French Revolution, the diversity of the Occitan language was thought to pose a threat which led to its degeneration.

During a period of literary renaissance in France in the late 19th Century, Occitan enjoyed a revival.

In addition, the First World War also brought Occitan speakers in to contact with other French speaking comrades and the language was given new life.

The internet is a good source of information on Occitan. The local mediatheque will also have a wealth of material on the subject. If you are interested in Occitan here are a few web links to have a look at. And of course you could try looking for evidence of Occitan around town, engravings and street signs, they are a great introduction to the language.

Links: Orbilat.com: Overview and grammar of Occitan Occitanet.free.fr: A guide to the language Globegate.UTM.edu, Troubadour and Early Occitan Literature Ostaldoccitania.net The house of Occitan associations of Toulouse

Mick Bates – Monflanquin (47150) General Electrician

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The Quercy Local • June-Sept 2012

AJK Paving & Masonry AJK Paving & Masonry work with both French & British specialists & have developed a reputation for quality, reliability and service.

Works undertaken pool builds, retaining-walls, block-work, natural stone, stone-cladding, pointing, jointing, rendering, renovation, paving, concreting, floor-tiling, wall-tiling, stud-walls, plaster-boarding.

Based in the South West of France, I mainly operate in the Lot et Garonne, Lot, Dordogne and Tarn et Garonne.

However, I am prepared to travel further afield for suitable jobs.

Adrian Knox – Builder 05 53 71 73 38 info@aquitaineservices.net www.aquitaineservices.net La Frugiere, Sauveterre-la-LÊmance, 47500 Siret no. 50333265200018

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01/2012 – Édité par Crédit Agricole S.A., agréé en tant qu’établissement de crédit – 91-93, bd Pasteur, 75015 Paris – Capital social : 7 494 061 611 € – 784 608 416 RCS Paris. Crédit photo : Getty Images.

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58 • Business, Insurance and Finance

End of another season how was it for you?

By Andy Sayle, Studio Creative

W

ith most gites and rental properties now sitting empty, has this season lived up to your expectations and most importantly your business plan. Many owners have seen a decline in the number of weeks of occupancy during 2012, is this due to the market or due to other factors, as equally some owners have enjoyed their best season to date.

After 25 years of running my own design and marketing agency back in the UK and also developing a successful holiday rental property here in Tarn et Garonne, my wife Ann-Marie and I are now resident here and able to help other owners get the most out of their properties.

Whilst many things are beyond your control, marketing your gite or holiday home is very much within your control and making it desirable isn’t just down to how much money you throw at it.

Marketing is so much more than a few token adverts and a listing on a few holiday rental websites! Every aspect of your property needs to be considered, how can you make it stand out from the crowd in an ever more crowded marketplace.

Just like us, properties get tired, and often it’s the owners that don’t see the warning signs. Customers’ demands and expectations move on, Wi-Fi is no longer a luxury, its expected. Some properties have the WOW factor and don’t have to try too hard, but can easily shoot themselves in the foot if the general cleanliness and quality is not there and then miss out on the easiest sell of all, ‘the repeat customer’.

If your property doesn’t have the kerb appeal, then perhaps you need to look at other ways of making your mark, try appealing to a ‘niche’ market. This means creating a specialism, whether it is aimed at artists due to its magnificent views, or groups, clubs and associations due to having suitably large social The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

spaces (i.e.: utilising the old barn for out of season group activities).

Think outside the box, not everyone is looking for a holiday sat by the pool in the sweltering heat of August! Our region of France has beautiful long spring and autumn seasons with the perfect weather for more active holidays. Consider mid-week to mid-week bookings out of peak season, so guests can have a free weekend in the middle of their stay and you don’t have to suffer the usual ‘manic’ Saturday.

Even the colour of your shutters could turn people away, stick with favourites, flick through the latest French lifestyle magazines, you may find trends have moved on since you last refurbished your property.

Equally you can waste large amounts of money developing parts of the property that just will not make any extra income, where perhaps all that’s needed is a small investment in some professional photography, to properly show off what’s already there.

Flower Power – a beautifully planted frontage, again photographed well may be all that’s needed to get that ‘2 second’ grab of attention, as the holiday seekers, flick through the world wide web at the speed of light.

Are you advertising on the right websites, there are numerous holiday rental websites, some excellent and some not. Whichever is best for you, you need to make sure that every photograph does your property justice, otherwise don’t show it. Most people will choose a property based on the photos alone. And remember in most cases it’s the female in the family that makes the holiday booking decision, so an image of a nicely planted patio, may be better than an image of an old antique tractor!

Through the use of good images and carefully considered wording you can rise to the top, as the websites are littered with properties that just do not help themselves. If you develop a ‘niche’ then you’ll have to advertise this to your niche market, easier in that they are also more likely to be looking for you, but a niche market is a much smaller market, however the conversion rate can be significantly higher.

What about your own micro website? An attractive micro website can complement your listings on the large holiday rental portals, which usually provide a link through to your own website. If done properly it can give

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Business, Insurance and Finance • 59

your property much more of a personality and allow you to give more information and images of your property and the surrounding area. Don’t expect to be top of page one on Google if someone searches under ‘holiday rental France’ but if someone is searching online specifically in your locality, then with the right search engine optimisation built into the site, you can be top of the tree!

It goes without saying that pitching the rental price of your property is key, but this does not mean it always has to be cut-price. By developing a niche and focussing away from the ‘mass market’ we managed to increase our rental charges above the norm for our type of property by 70% over a three-year period.

If you feel the time is right ‘post season’ to review your property and make sure you start 2013 with a more focussed and professional approach, then contact Andy on +33 (0)5 63 94 58 31 or email andy@studiocreative.fr and you can arrange to have a marketing survey carried out. The average cost for a survey is e175 and Andy will visit your property and check out existing marketing activity, then provide you with a review with recommendations, observations and actions to help you make the most of your property investment.

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

60 • Business, Insurance and Finance

Debt recovery in France This is governed by a law of Latin origin, as opposed to the British Common Law. Debt collection can be amicable or judicial. When amicable, it consists of the sending of simple letters of reminder or registered letters, combined with telephone messages and emails.

For European citizens, the easiest and cheapest way to recover money is to go through a debt collection agency who’ll attempt to recover a debt for you, and if they’re unsuccessful, they’ll seek judicial recovery.

Debt recovery is in fact not only done through bailiffs,

it is also done by debt recovery agents which work out cheaper than bailiffs, who are ministerial officers.

In addition, debt collection agencies can act throughout France and even abroad, through their partners.

There is a debt collection agency in Quercy, ABC Creancialis, whose details are as follows and who can answer any questions you may have, preferably by email: ABC CREANCIALIS, 40 Rue Saint James, 46000 CAHORS. creancial@orange.fr, www.creancial.fr, 09 79 05 78 30.

Contact: Benjamin Cuzange, Law Graduate.

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Business, Insurance and Finance • 61

Costing you more to keep warm over winter?

Following a recent decision by the European Court of Justice, pensioners living outside the UK who are in receipt of a state pension may now also qualify for a Winter Fuel Allowance. Previously this was paid only to pensioners who had qualified for the allowance before they left the UK. This allowance currently amounts to £200 or £300 for anyone over 80. The allowance is not means-tested and is different from the Cold Weather Payment.

The new ruling will mean that anyone with a ‘genuine and sufficient’ link to the UK may qualify.

This may be assessed with reference to how long an applicant has lived and worked in the UK and whether they are in receipt of a UK pension or other benefits.

There has been some consternation expressed in the UK press about this ruling, assuming that all expats are wealthy and living where there is no ‘winter cold’. It is quite possible that the UK Government may respond to this ruling with the introduction of a ‘temperature qualification’ which may not deter applications for ex-pats living in many regions of France, where the temperature may be lower than much of the UK. It will be necessary to apply for this allowance and the application forms can be found and downloaded from the website www.direct.gov.uk (Retirement and Pension Planning). You need to submit your claim before the 31st March 2013.

You can also call for more information on 00 44 191 218 7777. It has got to be worth a quick call to find out if you qualify.

Living in Montauban (82000 )a French lady (who used to live in London – and misses it greatly) wishes to meet English speakers to help her keep alive her memories of England and forge new friendships. lachal.b@hotmail.fr

Benjamin Cuzange Real Estate, low cost and debt collection agent (Cahors) 09 79 05 78 30 / 06 86 78 31 25 www.minicomimo.com www.creancial.fr

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

62 • Business, Insurance and Finance

THE 2012 FRENCH TAX REFORMS

W

e are all generally aware of the need to raise taxes to help reduce France’s budget deficit.

With François Hollande’s Socialist party gaining a majority in both houses of parliament, the way is clear for overhauling the tax system.

The recently adopted Loi de Finances Rectificative 2012 (2), is the first piece of legislation. Whilst it did not contain everything that had been predicted; the next round of recently announced tax changes and likely adoption as the Loi de Finances 2013 will bring further changes. However, for now there were a number of important changes in the already adopted Loi de Finances Rectificative 2012 (2) legislation, which could have a direct impact for many of you.

INHERITANCE TAX As a result of this new legislation, the amount that can be left to children by their parents on death has been reduced from e159,325 to e100,000 (per child by each parent).

The new law also has reduced the amounts that can be gifted during a parent’s lifetime without an immediate tax charge to e100,000. Previously such gifts could be renewed every six years, although this was increased to ten earlier this year and has now been increased again to fifteen years.

This also means that in the event of death during the fifteen year period after any gift, the value of the gifts will “come back into the account” for inheritance tax purposes.

This means that it has become even more important than previously to invest in ways that can help reduce future inheritance tax bills.

INCOME & “SOCIAL TAXES” The increase in “social taxes” (Contributions Sociales) on investment income and gains to 15.5%, which was planned by the previous government, has unsurprisingly been maintained!

The one change that has grabbed all the headlines is the decision to impose “social taxes” on property income earned by non-residents (on both rental income and capital gains).

These changes have partially been reversed and whilst the threshold remains at e1.3 million, the bands used to calculate the tax due are the same as those used last year. This has been called an “exceptional” tax for 2012, leading us to think that a further review of this tax will be announced in due course.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD? There are two potential changes to income tax which are unlikely to affect many of you. The presidential campaign was dominated by talk about a 75% income tax band for earnings over e1 million pa. This has not featured in the legislation just passed, but it certainly has not been forgotten, nor has the addition of a 45% tax band for earnings over e150,000.

Other future changes are likely to affect the capital gains tax rules for property and the removal of taxation at source at fixed rates (prélèvements libératoires) on bank interest, dividend income, capital gains and withdrawals from assurance vie policies within the first eight years after the initial investment.

With the tax changes already adopted and prospect of further changes, we recommend you review your situation, to ensure you maximise all available options to mitigate the potential impact of these tax changes.

Importantly, do not hesitate to contact us for an update on the additional changes to be adopted in the Loi de Finances 2013.

If you have any questions on the above, or should you have any other financial areas you wish to confidentially review, please contact us for the name of your local advisor on 05 56 34 75 51.

Peter Wakelin is a Regional Manager of Siddalls France, Independent Financial Advisers specialising in investment, pension, tax and inheritance planning for the British community in France since 1996.

Contact us on 05 56 34 75 51 for the name of your local advisor or visit us at: www.siddalls.fr

WEALTH TAX Last year there was a significant review of the rules regarding the Impôt de Solidarité sur la Fortune (ISF), increasing the threshold to e1.3 million and reducing the number of tax bands to two.

The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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the quercy local • 63

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The Quercy Local • October-January 2013

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