PERIOD OVERVIEW

POLITICAL Preceding the second world war, one of the most regular patrons of Bulgari was Count Vittorio Cini of Venice. It is stated that he purchased a fine pink diamond of 24.44 carats. Another customer who regularly purchased the acquisition of Bulgari diamonds and jewels was Count Galeazzo Ciano di Cortellazzo – minister of Foreign Affaris in Italy from 1936 to 1943. Ciano and his wife Edda, Mussolini’s daughter, purchased lavish goods of 300,000 lira. Monarchs and members of royalty from all around the world have visited Bulgari in Rome. Bulgari also held historical American patronage from members such as Barbara Hutton, Florence Gould, Henry Ford II, Nelson Rockefeller and Samuel Henry Kress. The United States ambassador to Italy, Clare Boothe Luce, was also an admirer of Bulgari as she appointed President Eisenhower in 1953 as the first woman to be an envoy to a major country.

ECONOMIC During the 1940’s – Bulgari was forced to reduce the production of jewelry due to World War II. The outbreak of the war caused a standstill throughout Europe which created a climate that was not suitable for the opulent display of jewelry. The legislation forbid the purchase and sale of precious metals, pearls, and gemstones. However, the 1950’s gained economic prosperity and there was a comeback in high jewelry with lavish designs set with diamonds and gemstones. It was during this period in time when the song, Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend, was sung by Marilyn Monroe in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

SOCIAL Bulgari has been committed to the tribute of femininity. The Roman jewels trace the associations between creative approach and the evolving tastes of women which parallel in social and cultural trends. Through the gemstones and diamonds, Bulgari has created timeless and sparkling designs. Bulgari has also searched the world to find the rarest gemstones of magnificent color and cut to perfection. In addition, Bulgari has remained bound for creativity by mastering designs that are unexpected and daring. In fact, one of the legendary designs is that of the serpent. The Serpenti is said to symbolize seduction and strength which is the fearless spirit animal of the modern woman. Since the Dolce Vita era – Bulgari has been known to beautify fascinating woman and has become the jeweler to the stars. These jewels have historically been worn by legendary female icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Julia Roberts, Reece Witherspoon and Anne Hathaway.

Bulgari has also supported environmental causes for the World Wide Fund for Nature in 1991 through the support of the Biological Diversity Campaign. During this time, Bulgari launched the Naturalia line as a tribute to Nature’s beauty and richness. This entailed a range of motifs from flowers, plants, birds and fish.

During the 125th anniversary of Bulgari – the company supported the Save the Children – Rewrite the Future Campaign. This fund provided education and a better future for millions of children.

TECHNOLOGICAL One of the major technological shifts for Bulgari was in 1980. During this time – Bulgari set up a means of centralization in which the company could spread their product in a universal and coherent manner. In doing so, Bulgari set up “Bulgari Distribuzione.” the purpose was to conceive, design, manufacture, and distribute jewels and objects to Bulgari outlets throughout the world. This completely changed the ways in which Bulgari was run from a creative and structural standpoint. This ensured the Bulgari products were innovated in a uniform way and distributed through shops with a consistent image and decor. The designers used were skilled and advanced industrial designers that first created the 1982 Parentesi collection. This particular line is said to be the most copied jewelry design of all time. The 1980’s were also the time in which Bulgari came out with the BVLGARI-BVLGARI wristwatch - as wearable jewels and timepieces became ever so popular. This was in effort to fit the dynamic lifestyle of the modern woman.

ART & LITERATURE Bulgari has a close connection to art and their roots in Rome. In 1884, Sotirios opened his first shop on top of the Spanish Steps and inaugurated his second boutique at 10 Via Condotti. In 2014 during the 130th anniversary – Bulgari adopted the Spanish Steps as tribute to the successful Maison. In 2016, Bulgari and the Roma Capitale celebrated the restoration of the stairway with a memorable art and music event. In 2015, Bulgari also restored the floor of the western entrance palestra of the Baths of Caracalla. The mosaic on the floor is inspired by the Diva’s Dream collection.

The colored gemstones of Bulgari are the DNA of the brand. With rich color combinations – the gem is said to be the soul and spirit while the gold represents the skeletal body. The American artist, Andy Warhol, was obsessed with the design, color, shape and texture of Bulgari. As this was also essential to his own aesthetic. Andy Warhol collected the jewels by Bulgari. Warhol believed Bulgari to be the best exhibition of contemporary art.

Bulgari was also big to film directors and producers. Carlo Ponti and Roberto Rossellini shopped at Bulgari for their wives, Sophia Loren and Ingrid Bergman. It is known that Vittorio De Sica was a client of Bulgari since 1939. Bulgari’s associations with the film industry were strengthened in the 1970’s as Jessica Lange was seen wearing Bulgari jewels on the American magazine cover of Interview as well as in the 1976 film, King Kong. The Quadrato watch was featured on Glenn Close in the film, The Paper (1994). The Parentesi necklace was featured as the first prize of winning the lottery in the film, Il Conte Max (1991). This film starred Christian De Sica and Ornella Muti. Director, Robert Altman, featured a scene in the 1994 film, Pret-a-Porter. This scene launched the Chandra collection at Bulgari in Paris. Ever since the 1990’s, Bulgari has loaned jewels to film stars for occasions such as the Academy Awards.