Explore Magma Geopark!
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Geologi and landscape Nature in Magma Geopark Cultural inheritance Mining in the region Geological Phenomena Legends of Stone Pytten of Guddal Outdoor activities About Magma Geopark
Geology and landscape 3 4-5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Definitions Magma: A molten fluid formed beneath the surface of the Earth. May consolidate to form an igneous rock. Intrusion: A body of igneous rock forced into existing rocks. Anorthosite: A coarse-grained plutonic igneous rock (a large intrusion formed at depth). Contains > 90 % plagioclase. Anorthosite containing some olivine is called troctolite. Norite: Gabbro (the coarse-grained equivalent of volcanic basalts) with labradorite plagioclase. Contains >35 % dark minerals (orthopyroxene and ilmenite) and no olivine. Leuconorite: 10-35 % dark minerals (mainly orthopyroxene) and plagioclase. Jotunite: Similar to norite, but in addition to orthopyroxene and plagioclase, it also contains an element of potassium feldspar. Mangerite: ‘Granitic’ light rock with equal amounts of plagioclase and potassium feldspar, and a small amount of quartz. Mangerite containing larger amounts of quartz is called quartz mangerite. Charnocite: Granite crystallised of magma at great depths (without water). The dark minerals are mainly orthopyroxene. Granulite facies: Regional metamorphic rocks with granular texture, created at moderate pressure and high temperature (20-30 km depth). Xenolith: The presence of pre-existing rock in an igneous rock. Drumlin: An elongated whale-shaped hill formed by glacial action. Its long axis is parallel with the movement of the ice. Esker: Deposits left by streams flowing within or beneath glaciers. Peneplain: Final stage of the erosion process.
The Rogaland Anorthosite Province
The Rogaland Anorthosite Province (RAP), which makes up Magma Geopark, is located along the coast of south-western Norway. It covers an onshore area of about 1750 km², and an offshore area of a similar size. The area features a wide range of different types of rocks and minerals. The RAP comprises massif-like bodies of anorthosite that go by the names of Egersund-Ogna, Håland-Helleren and Åna-Sira, and the Bjerkreim-Sokndal layered intrusion (BKSK). Noritic, jotunitic and charnockitic intrusions can also be found. An intrusion is a body of igneous rock, forced into existing rocks. Some of the noritic intrusions, such as those found in Tellnes and Storgangen, constitute unrivalled deposits of ilmenite. The whole province was shaped during a brief period of time between the emplacement of the massive anorthosites 932-929 million years ago (Ma), and the emplacement of the Tellnes norite (rich in ilmenite) in the Åna-Sira anorthosite at 920 ± 3 Ma. The host rocks are granulite facies quartzo-feldspathic and mafic Sweconorwegian gneisses, which also contain a number of deposits of molybdenum. The layered intrusion in Bjerkreim-Sokndal (BKSK) is the largest of its kind in Western Europe. It covers 230 km² and includes a thick layered series of more than 7000 m. The layered series consists of rocks belonging to the anorthosite kindred: andesine anorthosite, leuconorite, troctolite, norite, gabbronorite, mangerite and quartz mangerite. The BKSK intrusion is positioned in gneisses as well as anorthosite massifs. Xenoliths, the presence of already existing rocks in igneous rocks, are common within the intrusion itself. The BKSK intrusion and the various anorthosite massifs are intersected by members of a suite of small plutons and dykes of jotunite. It is also cut across by Egersund basaltic dykes emplaced at 600 Ma. The effects of glaciers can be seen all over the RAP. The landscape has been extensively shaped by ice ages and warmer intermediate periods, resulting in a peneplain (the final stage of an erosion process). Some places have few sedimentary cover rocks, and other parts have no forests or agricultural areas. The bare landscape provides us with the opportunity to gain insight into geological structures and provides excellent examples of magma chamber processes. Anorthosite gives rise to plateau-shaped mountains, often separated by narrow valleys. Thus, the Rogaland Anorthosite Province is like a natural laboratory in which past and present geological processes are particularly well exemplified. Around 250 scientific works about the geology of the area have been published. RAP defines the area of Magma Geopark.
Nature in Magma Geopark The short distance from the high mountains in the inland areas and down to the skerries and cliffy shorelines features an impressive variety of climates, topographies and vegetation types. The vegetation backdrop includes striking coastal heathlands, birch, pine and oak forests, boreal zones, woodless highlands, as well as overgrown fallow heathlands. The rugged terrain is host to thousands of lakes and waterways of various sizes. This distinctive scenery also contains fertile agricultural areas. Traditional and modern farming combined to make up a complex mosaic landscape. The area bears testimony to rich biodiversity and is home to numerous plant and animal species. Looking back 50 to100 years, the scenery consisted mainly of treeless coastal heathlands, hayfields and smaller cultivated strips of land. In the rough and rocky anorthosite landscape in the south-western part of the region, rocks and mountains have nevertheless divided the many acres of land, making it difficult to rationalise farming. However, there are long farming traditions in the area. Farming in the upland areas and sheep farming have both played a decisive role for agriculture and settlements up to the present day. Today few people work the labour-intensive coastal heathlands in a traditional manner. Large fallow areas are now deserted and the forest is gradually reclaiming its lost land, thus altering the landscape of the region dramatically. Even though these changes pose a threat to many of the species that have adapted to their surroundings over several centuries, the expansion of the forest now provides a habitat for a new influx of species such as deer (capreolus capreolus), red deer (cervus elaphus), moose (alces alces) and beaver (castor fiber). The insect and bird populations are also evolving and many species, like white-backed woodpecker (dendrocopus leucotos), woodcock (scolopax rusticola), sparrow hawk (accipiter nisus) and goshawk (accipiter gentilis), have all adapted well. Golden eagle (aquila chrysaetos) and eagle owl (bubo bubo) are still common and both take advantage of the open landscape when hunting for prey. Even though the eagle owl is the biggest of the owls in Europe, it is very hard to catch a glimpse of it, as it is very secluded and is
Making a Living
mainly active at night. The willow grouse (lagopus lagopus) can be found nesting around the highest peaks, while the black grouse (tetrao tetrix) is common in the upper parts of the heathlands. Apart from small rodents, the hare (lepus timidus), the red squirrel (sciurus vulgaris), the red fox (vulpes vulpes), the badger (meles meles), the mink (mustela vison), the pine marten (martes martes) and the stoat (mustela erminea) are the most common mammals. From time to time, the lynx (felis lynx) breeds in the region, however it roams over a much larger habitat and it is rarely observed in its natural environment. Changes in policies on
predatory mammals have led to frequent observations of stray grey wolves (canis lupus). The retracting heathlands are resulting in the decline of plant life in the area. Marsh gentian (gentiana pneumonanthe) and heath spotted orchid (dactylorhiza maculata) are among the most prominent plants in the barren upland areas. The marsh gentian is now on Norway’s list of endangered species, a list made by the Norwegian environmental authorities. There are still numerous plants left in the remaining coastal heathlands, but they are becoming increasingly threatened as the heathlands decline.
Acid rain
Acid rain has led to a reduction in the diversity of the flora and fauna around lakes and watercourses. A lack of deposits in combination with the oligotrophic rocky ground means that acid precipitation cannot be neutralised. Consequently the effects of the acidification are amplified. The presence of lime in rivers and lakes has therefore been essential for the survival of the remaining fish stocks and other water bound species.
Forest growth
In order to restrict forest growth and protect heatlands, it is common practice to burn certian areas in winter time. Financial incentives are given to farmers to encourage sheep farming. The original wild sheep stock can now be found several places in the area.
Cultural inheritance Fishing, hunting, shipping and agriculture have all traditionally been important trades for the Dalane region. Traces of humans in the area go as far back as the last ice age 10 000 years ago. Settlements from the Stone Age are scattered all over the region. In Helleren in Jøssingfjord it is likely that there have been permanent settlements more or less continuously from the Mesolithic period (4000 BC) up until the 1930s. The people were hunters and lived mainly by the sea. They preferred living near fjords and watercourses that could easily lead them to their seasonal habitats in the inland areas. Here they would hunt in the woods and the mountains. The connection between nature and culture is clearly evident in the Dalane region. The first traces of agriculture are found in glacier deposits that twist through the landscape. Moreover, there are numerous traces of the distinctive long houses from the Iron Age and the Viking period, particularly in the Storsheia uplands in Bjerkreim.
The Mountain as a Shelter
Other important cultural monuments are Stoplesteinan, a circle of 16 stones with a diameter of about 21 meters, and the sacrificial altar at Rossland, both probably from the same period. Furthermore, the harbours in Dalane were of great significance for the Vikings, as they were the only points of safety between northern Jæren and the distant Agder counties. Kings and other prominent men came here with their war ships and trade vessels. As the Black Death reduced the population by more than 50%, many of the farms in the area were left deserted. Some of these farms were revived in the 17th and 18th century, while others remain disused to this day. In the 1700s and 1800s shipping grew to be a vital industry for the region. The buildings in Sogndalsstrand, Rekefjord and Egersund still bear signs from this era. Around 1850 the pottery industry came to Egersund. The local clay deposits were utilised, however, already in the 1860s most of the clay was imported from England. The 20th century saw the birth of industries like mining, woodwork, fishery, mechanics and electronics. Even though most people today are employed in the service industries, agriculture nevertheless plays an important part for the region, which is renowned for its extensive sheep farming.
Mining in the region The first newspaper articles about mineral deposits in the Dalane region were by a Stavanger newspaper in 1745 and outline iron and copper occurrences. Between 1785 and 1790 active mining in the region took place in the iron mine located in Eigersund municipality. The iron content of the ore was relatively low, however it contained a high level of titanium. The low grade of iron and the long journey to the smelter meant that the project was short lived and of little significance to Norway. In early 1860 a new mine was established in the same area. A large titanium-iron deposit
had also been located following earlier prospecting in the region. The Blåfjell mine was established in the Sokndal municipality near the town of Hauge i Dalane. The titanium rich iron ore proved to yield steel of superior quality. Due to the enhanced properties of the titanium rich steel, steel producing companies from England began to secure this raw material from Sokndal to blend in with their own production. All of the titanium rich iron ore from the Blåfjell mine was exported to England for treatment. No production facilities were established in Norway. The demand for good quality ore from mine operations in Eigersund and Sokndal reached their peak in the early 1870s. The entire Norwegian iron ore export came
exclusively from the Blåfjell mine in Dalane during this period. The commercial demand for local titanium rich iron ore sank around 1875. However, titanium caught the interest of other actors during the early part of the 1900s as it was discovered that it could be used to make white pigment, the basic ingredient in paint. In 1902 a company named Titania AS was formed to exploit the known titanium resources in the area. In 1916 it opened up an underground mine called Storgangen, which ran until 1965 when its production was replaced by Titania’s open pit mine from 1960. In early 1900s, a company began mining molybdenum and tungsten in a valley called
Ørsdalen in the Bjerkreim municipality. The mine had a series of shutdowns and a series of owners until its operations ceased in 1954. Tungsten was the most commercially viable mineral during the life of the mine. World War I brought renewed interest in the molybdenum deposits in the area located near the town of Moi in the Lund municipality, specifically the areas of Gursli and Liland on the far west side of the region. Since the end of World War II, Norway’s largest mine operation, Titania AS mine operations located near Hauge i Dalane, has generally been an economic success. The economic success of the region is a result of the deposits of industrial minerals and the unique natural stone found in the municipalities of Hå and Eigersund.
Geological Phenomena Some of the most striking features about Rogaland Anorthosite Province are the distinct signs of glacial geology. Evidence of the mechanical and chemical erosion processes can be found everywhere. Large parts of the area are covered with glacially transported rocks and in several places potholes of various sizes can be found, ranging from a few centimetres to several meters. In the northern part of the region there are various types of moraines. You can trace the movements of the ice by following the moraines northwards. You also find eskers, which are deposits left by glacier streams, and drumlins, which are hills shaped by glacial movements. One of the more spectacular eskers is St. Olavsormen (the St. Olav Serpent), which is now protected under the law. What makes this esker unique is that the streams flowing beneath the glacier were so strong that the deposits were moved uphill about 40 meters! The area features historical treasures from early magmatic activity, like anorthosite with orthopyroxene megacrysts, measuring up to one meter, plagioclase fenokrysts with illumination effects, modal layered rocks with evidence of several different magma chamber processes, xenoliths from the surrounding rocks and numerous bodies of iron titanium and deposits of sulphides. There are also several types of dykes and dykes from different eras, ranging from a few millimetres to tens of metres wide and several kilometres long.
From Open Seas to Deep Forests
The St. Olav Serpent is a gravel ridge, measuring 1 kilometre in length and 4-6 metres in height. An old legend has it that a sea serpent attempted to travel from the fjord to a lake, but was stopped by the holy St. Olav. Today the ridge is a symbol of this incident.
Prestepino. A legend tells the story of a priest heading for Åna-Sira from Sokndal. As he was walking in the mountains, he got himself into a fix as his cassock got stuck. That is why today this route is called Prestepino, literally meaning “the Priest Fix”.
Stoplesteinan: According to oral tradition the circle of stones is a place of assembly from the Viking period, suggesting that it was built during the period from 800-1000 BC. Another theory according to archaeologists is that this could be a cemetery.
Legends of Stone Whether or not the stone altar at Rossland was linked to a fertility cult is hard to ascertain. However, the findings of a human head and the chalices found in the nearby stone talus strongly suggest that this was the case. If the chalices are pre-historic, it is probable that they were used for sacrifice. In the cult of the Norse god Frøy, the sacrifice of horses was common practice. According to the 13th century Icelandic writer Snorre, the horse blood was poured into a chalice and then used to dye the altar. People would then drink of the Frøy chalice to ensure peace and prosperity for the year to come. Also, local historical monuments and place names support the idea that Rossland was a centre for fertility cults in the late Iron Age.
Outdoor activities
Get into Shape with Nature
Magma Geopark covers an area featuring everything from deep valleys to high mountains. There are a variety of outdoor activities for the whole family to enjoy, and the scenery is breathtaking. WATER SPORTS Lund municipality has a hire center where you can hire boats, canoes, kayaks, life jackets, tents and field cookers etc. In other words you have everything you need for a couple of days of enjoyable recreation in the open air. INLAND FISHING In Magma Geopark there are more than 6000 fresh water lakes of various sizes. The internationally renowned Bjerkreim River can be found in the area, and is one of the best salmon rivers in Norway with a total length of 54 kilometres. The most common catches are salmon, trout and even eel. SALTWATER FISHING Salt water fishing is unrestricted in Norway and there are plenty of opportunities to try your luck from land or boat. The most common fish are cod, mackerel, salmon, trout, coalfish and pollack.
Pytten of Guddal Guddal farm in Sokndal is situated in a particularly secluded little place and is not easily accessible. However, this made it the ideal hiding place for catholic priests after the Reformation. A cave in the talus served the purpose of a church and does to this day still go by the name of Guddal Church. The owner of the farm was himself an avid catholic, and like many others he refused to convert. The Danish government kept sending new priests to the village, but many were chased away or even killed. Under these circumstances did the young son on the farm grow up. His Christian name was Jo, but people just called him Pytten because he always said “Pytt, pytt!” (a Norwegian expression meaning “oh well, that’s alright, it doesn’t matter”) whenever something didn’t go quite according to plan. As he was the only son in the family, his parents adored him and he therefore grew up having his way most of the time. He grew to be a big, strong
man; yet farming was of no interest to him. He preferred hunting and instead he became a blacksmith, having sharp weapons at his disposal. His criminal record began when the Danish bailiff wanted to take away his beloved fiancée Thora, or the Mydland rose as she was called. It all came to a scuffle, leaving the bailiff and one of his men dead. The court ruled that Pytten was to be executed, something Pytten was not prepared to accept. So he pulled his knife and forced his way out of there. Many attempts were made in order to arrest him, but none were successful. Through an underground tunnel at the back of the house, he managed to hide in a cave. Thora was the only one who knew about his hideaway. All was well for a while, but then one day he found himself attacking a couple of men who were out to catch him. One was killed, and the other ran away with the words: “No-one can
fight the Devil of Guddal!” Jo was declared lawless and a price was put on his head. But he just laughed and said: “Pytt, is that all?” Pytten trusted his neighbours and was not worried about being killed. Nevertheless, it so happened that one of his best friends made an attempt, and that is supposedly when something snapped in his head. He laughed out loudly in a frantic manner and said: “You, of all people! Pytt, pytt!” In the time that followed he turned more and more insane. Jo robbed and killed many people, but was then finally surrounded on a mountaintop and thrown down the hillside. But as it were he landed in a tree and survived. His wife was loyal and she hid him and healed his wounds, while everyone else thought that Pytten was dead. Then one snowy night, two girls got lost while they were out walking and ran astray to Guddal. They were later found killed. Rumours that Pytten had returned from the dead spread rapidly. But this time Thora had had enough.
Terrified, she took her children and left Guddal. She went crying to the local priest, telling him everything, and a large force was mobilised to arrest Pytten. This time nothing would get in the way of catching him. It turned out they could have saved all their troubles, because he didn’t resist. He was just sat there by himself, oozing with madness as they came to fetch him. When he was told to come with them, he just said: “That’s alright, I don’t mind. I can’t find Thora and the others anyway. Pytt, I’m freezing cold!” Pytten confessed to all his misdeeds and more, and he was sentenced to be torn to death by four horses. His hands and feet were tied together before he was bound to the four horses, each pulling in separate directions. The last words coming from Pytten were: “Pytt, pytt, now they’re pulling the living crap out of me!”
ON TOP IN DALANE Over the years, a number of trails in the area have been marked. Some of the paths are challenging, others are more suitable for leisurely strolls. In total there are more than 20 marked trails that are frequently used by the local inhabitants. VELOCIPEDE CYCLING Flekkefjordbanen (Flekkefjord railway) is a 17 kilometres long branch of the Sørlandsbanen (Southern line) with 13 tunnels. In 2000 the line was pronounced a site of heritage and is now used for velocipede cycling. Velocipede cycling on stretches of the line has become very popular among tourists and businesses. The activity is suitable for all ages. Flekkefjordbanen runs through a beautiful and varied landscape and is an impressive construction. DIVING The coast off Magma Geopark is a popular diving area. It is biologically diverse and there are a large number of wrecks to visit. The water is very clear, visibility is between 20 and 40 metres, and there are few coastal areas in Europe to rival it!
About Magma Geopark MAGMA GEOPARK will be situated in a region traditionally based on fishery, farming and other industries. The establishment of the geopark will be a valuable tourist magnet in Dalane. The region and the surrounding municipalities are in need of rejuvenation: A geopark will attract entrepreneurs and motivate the current actors in the tourism industry, and will counteract population decline in the municipalities. FINANCIAL SUPPORT Magma Geopark is a development project supported mainly by Rogaland county municipality, but also by VestAgder county municipality and the six municipalities Bjerkreim, Eigersund, Flekkefjord, Hå, Lund and Sokndal. POSITIONS A Project Manager is engaged in a 50 % position and regional development organisation hold the remaining 50 %. Additionally, the national service Geological Survey of Norway has a 15% position supporting the Magma Geopark project. THE BOARD The board of Magma Geopark has representatives from the supporting counties and municipalities, Dalane friluftsråd (recreational organisational body), Dalane folkemuseum (regional museum) and Næringssjefen i Dalane (The Business Development Manger in Dalane). The board of Magma Geopark normally meets every other month, and the chairman is represented by Lund municipality. THINK TANK In addition to the board, Magma Geopark has a think tank that meets twice a year. Its main task is supporting the Magma Geopark project with s uggestions and ideas. The group consists of board members, as well as representatives from Reisemål Sydvest BA (local tourist organisations), Geological Survey of Norway, Gea Norvegica and Dalane videregående skole (local upper secondary school). BUDGET The budget for 2006 is 1.1 million NOK (approximately 140 000 EUR).
THE OFFICE The office of Magma Geopark is situated in Dalane Business Garden, which is a local business community of 25 entrepreneurial industries and organisations. Many of these have valuable know-how and experience that will be beneficial to Magma Geopark. CENTRAL PEOPLE IN THE MAGMA GEOPARK ORGANISATION
Inger Christensen, Business Development Manager, is liable for the project.
OSLO STAVANGER
Egil Normann Eek, Chief Executive for Culture and Education, is the board director.
MAGMA GEOPARK KRISTIANSAND
NEWCASTLE
STOCHOLM
HANSTHOLM COPENHAGEN
LONDON
Valentin Svelland, Technology Consultant, is responsible for technical support.
Mogens Marker, Henrik Schielerup, Gurli B. Meyer, Brian Robins and Oliver Bolle
PARTNERS:
BJERKREIM
Pål Thjømøe, Project Manager, is a geologist.
AMSTERDAM
EIGERSUND FLEKKEFJORD
HÅ
Dalane Dalane Friluftsråd Folkemuseum
LUND
SOKNDAL
ROGALAND
Nordsjøløypa
NORDSJØVEGEN
The North Sea trail
VEST-AGDER
Reisemål Syd Vest
Contact: Magma Geopark Norway, Spinnerigaten 15, N-4370 Egersund Layout: Sogndalstrand Media as Print: Gunnarshaug Trykkeri as Photo: Pål Thjømøe, Jone C. Omdal, Jan Ove Grastveit, NGU, Anne Lise Grastveit, Tidspress, Dalane Folkemuseum, Lund Kommune, Knut Bry and Ole Jakob Vorraa Text: Pål Thjømøe, Finn Nesvold, Jone C. Omdal and Leif Dybing