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Something for everyone
Words Jonathon Burford
Why the Speedmaster Ref 145.022 could be the only vintage watch you may ever need or want
MARCH 2022’S OMEGA X Swatch MoonSwatch launch was something of a phenomenon. By combining the historic Speedmaster chronograph aesthetic with the Swatch brand’s affordability and playfulness, all for around $260, it created unprecedented demand. The world’s 110 Swatch-brand boutiques were mobbed for the opportunity to buy one. This caused an immediate opportunity for those lucky enough to acquire one, with watches being re-advertised by dealers and flippers in the secondary market at many multiples of the original cost. For a short time, you could even buy a vintage Speedmaster at an almost comparable price point. Initially powered by one of the best manual-wound movements, the calibre 321, the Speedmaster is among the most storied, historic and evocative watches of the postwar period. It has been in continual production since 1957, when it was introduced as the Ref CK2915 (alongside the original Seamaster 300 Ref CK2913 and Railmaster Ref CK2914) with its iconic threeregister black dial, broad-arrow hands, steel bezel and curved lugs. The first model that introduced the classic Speedmaster aesthetic still recognised today was the Ref 2998, with its slightly enlarged case size, black acrylic bezel and updated Alpha-style hands. Of course, the watch really hit popular consciousness when NASA chose it to be worn by the Apollo 11 astronauts, with Lyre (twisted) lugs and an asymmetrical case design incorporating crown guards. The Professional watches have been the
backbone of Omega for 50 years, with the Lemania-based calibre 861 still providing the base for today’s Moonwatch as calibre 1861. Given the number produced, there really is a Speedy for everyone – and at every price point. While my favourite is the early Ref 2998-1, it’s the Ref 145.022 that gives the most varied choice. In production from 1968-83, its twisted lugs, black dial/bezel and the like make it probably the most recognisable and classic-looking Speedmaster. As with all things Omega, the many variations and editions can seem impenetrable, but these details are important when buying. The earlier versions had a suffix -XX indicator (eg 145.022-68), although this didn’t signal the production year, which is discoverable only via the serial on the movement. From 1968-74, the dials displayed a ‘step’ between the main centre dial and the outer track of the dial, similar to those found on the calibre 321-powered predecessor. The bezels are black acrylic, with the most desirable being the Dot Over Ninety ‘DON’ variants from the Ref 145.022-68 Transitional and the 145.022-69 only. There are also case-back variations, such as the straight text of ‘First Watch Worn on the Moon’ (145.022-69, 1970-73) and Omega Seahorse engraving and ‘Speedmaster’ written (145.022-68/69). There was a gold version, too; 1014 were produced, with No 1 and 2 being offered to (and declined by) President Nixon and VP Spiro Agnew. The next 19 were given to astronauts at a commemorative banquet on November 25, 1969,
Magneto
RIGHT Vintage Speedmaster was available in numerous variations and editions – and even in gold.
