BUILT IN 1935 RESTORED IN 2020
BUILT IN 1935 RESTORED IN 2020
Moazzam Jahi Market ©Copyright 2020 All photographics rights belong to Govt. of Telangana. Published by: MA&UD Govt of Telangana Printing by: Pragathi Offeset Archival Research Consultant: Madhu Vottery Design by:
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Shri K . CHANDR ASHEKAR R AO Hon’ble Chief Minister, Govt. of Telangana
MUNICIPAL ADMINISTRATION & URBAN DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
Shri ARVIND KUMAR , IAS Principal Secretary to Govt., MA&UD
Moazzam Jahi Market is as important a landmark in Hyderabad as Charminar or Golkonda Fort. My first association with MJ Market was in early nineties and I was instantly drawn by its quiet elegance and powerful majestic enigma just as it withstood the pressures of time and decay. It was during one of our inspections in the year 2018 that Minister of Municipal Administration and Urban Development Mr. K T Rama Rao asked me to adopt MJ Market so far as its restoration was concerned with a mandate to “bring it back to its original glory and pride”! I instantly accepted the challenge and there began my learning in restoring heritage structures. I was mistakenly under the impression that restoration would be completed in about 90 days. But we realized the intricate complexities and delicate nature of restoring a heritage structure once we started the actual work. The aspects included replacing the entire roofing, constructing underground drainage and water supply, replacing entire wiring and lighting, removing encroachments, cleaning the walls and taking up the flooring among others. The list of restoration activities is endless and one can on in detail. This book captures some of these succinctly. The restoration was a painfully slow process and that’s because utmost care was required to ensure that the original shape was restored and that no damage whatsoever was caused to the structure. We used to get occasional flak and ridicule on being unduly slow but all this period since 2018 was worth the wait to get the quality work done without compromising on the heritage aspects of the Market. We take pride in assuring that this renovation will last a lifetime and has given a new lease of life to what was once a near dilapidated structure. I wish to thank GHMC and all the officials and agencies for working relentlessly in this restoration effort. It’s been a great learning experience which shall hopefully be used effectively for taking up similar restorations of other heritage structures in Hyderabad.
Shri K .T. R AMA R AO Hon’ble Minister for MA&UD
Hyderabad is the fastest growing urban agglomeration in India for a while now. While the growth engines in IT, Pharma, financial services, construction sector and aeronautics among others provide the necessary impetus to growing urbanization, it is the well knit character of Hyderabad consisting of its rich culture, heritage, cuisine, language and lovely dignified etiquette (tehzeeb) that gives it a unique edge and distinct magnetic identity. Hyderabad has ranked number one in India consistently for last six years in Mercers quality of living index and it also is among the only two cities in India to have been honoured with UNESCO title of “creative city” in gastronomy category last year. There has to be a delicate balance between modernity and heritage as they complement each other perfectly so far as the brand Hyderabad is concerned. It is thus imperative that a concerted and consistent effort is taken up to restore and preserve our rich heritage and culture which is so vital for the growth and continuity and all the things which literally makes what Hyderabad is! The restoration of Moazzam Jahi Market is just the beginning. Hyderabad also is home to number of Stepwells (Baolis) and we are examining the feasibility of taking up their restoration in a phased manner. Likewise, restoration and preservation of some of the other heritage structures also are on the anvil. I thank all the officials and agencies involved in the restoration of MJ Market. Its been an interesting journey, a crucial learning experience and has given us confidence to take up similar restoration efforts in near future. The drive continues ….
VI Nizam Mir Mehboob Ali Khan
VII Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan Nawab Mir Shujat Ali Khan Moazzam Jah
HYDERABAD The City of Nizams
H
yderabad has many historic layers starting from pre-historic period. It was originally a part of the Kakatiya kingdom. Hyderabad was selected to be the capital of Qutb Shahi rulers, founded in 1591. It became an Asaf Jahi capital in the early 18th century. The Asaf Jahi rulers – the seven generations of the Nizams ruled for 228 years. With the floods in the city in 1908 and plague in 1911, the Seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan felt the need to work on the economic development and the improvement of the city, following the footprints of his father Mir Mehboob Ali Khan. This was the time when the Hyderabad Improvement Board was formed, later known as the City Improvement Board. The younger son of Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan, Nawab Mir Shujat Ali Khan Moazzam Jah was selected as the President of the City Improvement Board then called Araish-e-Balda. In 1913, the entire city was surveyed for the first time. The City Improvement Board worked on many public structures such as educational institutions, hospitals, market places, etc. These projects were planned not only in the capital city but also in the entire state to give it a distinct character.
City Improvement Board Members
Design of a Central Market in the city of Hyderabad was one of the important projects. The proposal was made in 1932 by the board and submitted for approval with a cost of Rs 3,00,000. The market structure was constructed on the lines of the squares in London. The building stands on a triangular site with three octagonal towers on three corners. The southern tower near the junction of two roads is the tallest one and has a pavilion on top. The imposing clock tower on it was set up by the Seventh Nizam at a cost of Rupees 7,000/- in late 1937. The staircases to access the market terrace were added in 1938-39 at a cost of Rupees 2,600/-. The entire structure is made of granite stone and the ceiling is built with Jack Arches that have iron beams. It has a flat terrace accessible by the spiral staircases. The interior circular courtyard forms an integral part of the building which was designed with natural materials keeping in mind the climatic changes in the Deccan Plateau. This market was designed to have been a landmark structure. The site was chosen close to the Station Road to benefit the business communities and also to integrate markets into the new urban fabric of the capital city that was just developing. The structure came up in the proximity of residential areas.
MOAZZAM JAHI MARKET A Jewel among the 20th century Hyderabad Markets
Construction of this market by the City Improvement Board has been a very important event in the history of Hyderabad. A beautiful silver model of the market was gifted to the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan by the Board during the opening of the market on 10 January 1935 along with the models of many other constructions of this period viz. Osmania University, High Court etc. This model is presently at the H.E.H. Nizam’s Purani Haveli Museum.
YEAR
1933
Construction of Moazzam Jahi Market
YEAR
1934
Construction of Moazzam Jahi Market
YEAR
1935
Moazzam Jahi Market after completion
Originally called the Central Market, it was later renamed Moazzam Jahi Market, after the VII Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan’s younger son Nawab Mir Shujat Ali Khan Moazzam Jah.
O
ver the years the stately market was, unfortunately, losing its glory due to neglect and apathy. As a result, the shop-owners and visitors had to face the perennial water logging issues. Huge chunks of concrete falling off the ceiling and poor drainage compounded the problem further. The clock on the tower was non-functional for over a decade due to poor maintenance, the domes and finials lost their shine. Dangling wires and huge hoardings began overshadowing the prominent monument that now cried for attention. The market’s desperate call for restoration was heard by Hon’ble Minister for Municipal Administration and Urban Development of Telangana KT Rama Rao who personally visited the market while becoming the pathfinder for concrete solutions and out of the box steps to bring back its lost grandeur. As advised by the Minister KT Rama Rao, Principal Secretary Shri Arvind Kumar, IAS further announced his adoption of the market. Under his leadership and guidance, the Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation undertook special efforts to complete this extensive task and proceeded to begin a unique and integrated approach in its process for restoration. Thus began the journey of transformation. The journey that demanded turning back the clock literally and reversing the effect of ageing on the structure without losing its architectural splendour.
THE STORY OF RESTORATION Conservation and Preservation of Moazzam Jahi Market
The market structure was in dire need of an in-depth detailed analysis of the prevailing issues and the traditional techniques and methods of construction, to prepare a comprehensive conservation plan required for addressing the issues and restoring the structure to its former glory using traditional methodology. The restoration works were carried out in a meticulous method taking a top-down approach of first restoring the Jack Arched roof in the market area and providing new waterproofing layer over the same, using traditional materials and methods of construction only carried out by skilled craftsmen who have thorough knowledge in the field. After structurally restoring the monument the restoration of the stone facades was carried out systematically cleaning all layers of years of pollution and weathering using micro-abrasive and scientific cleaning methods, and the ornamental details of the structure were carefully restored using traditional methods and materials. The newly restored domes were mounted with brass finials handcrafted carefully matching every detail to the original by gold Gilding, one of Hyderabad’s oldest techniques of manually beating gold foils. Repair works were also carried out on the water taps, platforms and staircases outside the building to ensure comprehensive restoration. Water-logging was a recurrent problem in the market. To solve it, drainage lines were replaced with stormwater drainage systems, both inside and outside of the heritage building. To ensure that the beauty of the building is not concealed by electricity and telephone poles, underground cables were laid to compliment the intricate design. The lights were installed to illuminate the framework of the site. The clock tower, one of the most significant designs of the building which was out of order for ages, was repaired and made functional. Now, it announces its presence in style with hourly chimes. A flag-post of Indian Tricolour at the centre of the courtyard is the recent addition to the structure and adds patriotic fervour to space. The entire restoration process was carried out in a very meticulous manner to ensure that the original integrity of the structure is not damaged in the process and the original authenticity of the monument’s design, appearance and material is not lost, thus reviving it to its true authentic glory.
Heritage buildings are increasingly accepted as important venues linking a new generation with an older one, and thus as places to be used for education and citizenship. Revitalizing old neighbourhoods, buildings ensure that our quality of life is improved and that community cohesion is maintained.
In The Bazaars of Hyderabad What do you sell, O ye merchants? Richly your wares are displayed, Turbans of crimson and silver, Tunics of purple brocade, Mirrors with panels of amber, Daggers with handles of jade. What do you weigh, O ye vendors? Saffron and lentil and rice. What do you grind, 0 ye maidens? Sandalwood, henna and spice. What do you call, O ye pedlars? Chessmen and ivory dice. What do you make, O ye goldsmiths? Wristlet and anklet and ring, Bells for the feet of blue pigeons, Frail as a dragon-fly’s wing, Girdles of gold for the dancers, Scabbards of gold for the king. What do you cry, O ye fruitmen? Citron, pomegranate and plum. What do you play, O musicians? Cithar, sarangi and drum. What do you chant, O magicians? Spells for the aeons to come. What do you weave, O ye flower-girls? With tassels of azure and red? Crowns for the brow of a bridegroom, Chaplets to garland his bed, Sheets of white blossoms new-gathered To perfume the sleep of the dead.
By Sarojini Naidu (1879-1949)
The journey that began in 2018 with months of planning and hard work by GHMC under the guidance of Principal Secretary Shri Arvind Kumar, IAS has come up to its fruition as the Moazzam Jahi market now welcomes the world to witness its magnificence as it reclaims its rightful place in Hyderabad’s heritage.
GREATER HYDERABAD MUNICIPAL CORPORATION
MUNICIPAL ADMINISTRATION AND URBAN DEVELOPMENT