el Restaurante JanFebMar 2021 by MaidenNamePress

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JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

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SWEET POTATO LENTIL TORTILLA SOUP

Soupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On! HOT COCKTAILS An el Restaurante Exclusive:

MEXICAN MULTI-UNIT RESTAURANT REPORT

PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID BOLINGBROOK, IL PERMIT NO. 467

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In This Issue 18 24

HOTLINE

FROM THE FIELD—A COVID Update

COVER STORY—Soup’s On! By Kathleen Furore; cover image by Alanna Taylor-Tobin

24 BETTER BASICS—Dish Up Take-out Friendly Fare (In English and Spanish) 31

AT THE BAR—Hot Cocktails Fire Up Sales (In English and Spanish)

FROM MEXICO—Pintha: A Taste of Italy in a Mexican Pueblo (In English and Spanish)

44 A EL RESTAURANTE EXCLUSIVE—2021 Mexican Multi-Unit Report 50

MARKETPLACE (In English and Spanish)

RECIPES

56 MY FAVORITE RECIPE—Gringo’s Carne Guisada

38 54

56 96

ON WEBWEB AT www.elrestaurante.com ONTHE THE AT www.elrestaurante.com

Want more great recipes? Visit elrestaurante.com/recipes to find something for every section of your menu!

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

editor’s note

elRestaurante | w w w.elrestaurante.com |

IT’S 2021—AND I’M FOCUSING ON THE POSITIVE. So, I’m starting my first note of the new year with one of the most positive, uplifting stories I’ve recently read—one I hope is a harbinger of things to come as we haltingly move toward a COVID-free (or at least COVID-contained) future. Here in Chicago, in many

I haven’t been to TaKorea Cocina, but it’s now on my list of restaurants to try! Continuing on a positive note… Technomic, a leading foodservice industry research and consulting firm, recently released

are a common site. As you might

whitepapers with predictions for

imagine, between the pandemic

the US, Canada and global mar-

and the winter weather (predicted

kets. All three share an overarch-

to hit sub-zero temperatures this

ing prediction: “A clearer road to

weekend), they’ve really taken a

recovery” is on the horizon. “With the approval and distribu-

Enter Robert Magiet, owner

tion of vaccines, we’re able to see

of TaKorea Cocina, who’s stepped

a light at the end of the tunnel…”

up to help. He’s buying out

Technomic says.

neighborhood tamale vendors’

And here’s the great news for

inventory, then delivering the

Mexican restaurants: The US

food to local homeless shelters

whitepaper foresees a renewed

and encampments.

interest in Mexican cuisine. The

It all started when Magiet saw

reason? Travel restrictions, posits

a vendor “bundled in at least five

Technomic, have sparked interest,

layers of clothing selling her tamales

not only in Mexican fare, but in

in 15-degree weather,” Blockclub

Italian and Chinese cuisine, too.

Chicago reported on January 28.

“These craveable cuisines are

As Magiet told Blockclub, “I just

more likely than other interna-

pulled over and said, ‘If I buy all your

tional fare to survive the veto

tamales, will you go home?’ The ven-

vote among families ordering food

dors are so grateful. They’re honestly

and drink for home consump-

in disbelief that it’s happening.”

tion,” Technomic explains, noting

The effort has become a daily

that menus will move beyond

ritual: Magiet wakes up at 5:30 a.m.

“tried-and-true consumer picks

and buys out a different tamale

to new twists on these classic

vendor every day. “Buy-outs average

offerings”(think churros in savory

$350 for 20 to 25 dozen tamales, and

formulations). “Operators will

Magiet always leaves a $50 to $70 tip

spotlight less familiar ingredients,

— for the vendors and for the people

dishes and beverages, such as…

making the tamales,” Blockclub

Mexican sotol spirit.”

reported. He’s even formed a part-

organizations to help the cause.

neighborhoods, tamale vendors

one-two punch to profits. Kathleen Furore, editor

and hopes to partner with more

Enjoy our first issue of 2021—

nership with Breakthrough Urban

here’s to a much better year

Ministries and Franciscan Outreach

ahead!

el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Ed Avis PUBLISHER Kathleen Furore EDITOR Ala Ennes ART DIRECTOR Elyse Glickman, Karen Hursh Graber, Joseph Sorrentino CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MAIN OFFICE phone: 708.267.0023 PRESS RELEASES TO: kfurore@restmex.com MAILING ADDRESS P.O. Box 13347 Chicago, IL 60613 SHIPPING ADDRESS 1317 W. Belden Ave. Chicago, IL 60614 AD SALES/ENGLISH Ed Avis 708.218.7755 edavis@restmex.com Suzanne Bernhardt 678.880.9282 suzanne@restmex.com AD SALES/ESPAÑOL Alfredo Espinola alfredo@elrestaurante.com Published by Maiden Name Press, LLC Volume 24, Number 1

el Restaurante (formerly el Restaurante Mexicano) (ISSN 1091-5885) is published five times a year by Maiden Name Press, LLC 1317 W. Belden Ave., Chicago, IL 60614 el Restaurante is distributed by subscription at the cost of $40. All contents copyright© 2021 Maiden Name Press, LLC. Nothing in this issue may be reproduced in any form without publisher’s consent.

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National Restaurant Association TRACKS TRENDS THROUGH 2021 “2020 WAS A YEAR UNLIKE ANY OTHER FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY.” In one sentence, the

National Restaurant Association (NRA) succinctly summed up what the past year was like for everyone in the restaurant industry.

1. STREAMLINED MENUS. Fullservice operators got lean fast, reducing inventories and developing menu items they could make well with a smaller staff. These items had to travel well and be what customers craved. Expect menus to stay trimmed in coming months.

up. More than half of consumers surveyed would buy groceries (fresh, uncooked food items such as meat, produce, dairy, bread or pasta) if restaurants offered them.

age items predicted to heat up menus in

2. OFF-PREMISES TAKES PRECEDENCE.

the coming year), the organization instead

Prior to the pandemic, 80 percent of fullservice restaurant traffic was on-premises. Then in March 2020, most restaurants were forced to shut down on-premises dining. In what’s likely the fastest pivot in industry history, focus quickly shifted to off-premises, via takeout and delivery.

8. ALCOHOL TO GO. A third of off-premises customers (ages 21+) say they included an alcoholic beverage with a takeout or delivery order since the beginning of the COVID-19 outbreak, and they’ll continue to in the future. Thirty-five percent of off-premises customers—with millennials leading the category at 53 percent—are more likely to choose a restaurant if it offers the option of including alcoholic beverages with the to-go order.

Top Restaurant Trends” report, based on

3. BLENDED MEALS, A TEAM EFFORT.

9. COMFORT FOODS. Consumers say

a survey of 6,000 restaurant operators and

Homebound customers like to mix up meals—maybe make the main dish but order appetizers, sides or dessert from a restaurant. Millennials are especially big fans of the blended meal.

menus that offer a good selection of comfort foods influence their restaurant choice. From haute to homey, a third of fine dining operators surveyed are adding more comfort items—think burgers, pot pies, lasagna, soups, curries, sandwiches, pizza and noodle dishes. Thirty-eight percent of on-premises and 33 percent of off-premises customers say their restaurant choices will be influenced by whether the menus include the comfort foods they crave.

This year, in its annual trends survey (which traditionally includes specific food & bever-

explores “how restaurateurs demonstrated resiliency, innovation and commitment” in the year just passed, as well as “the food and menu trends likely to stick around” as we move beyond the pandemic in 2021. Here are highlights from the NRA’s “2021

1,000 consumers:

4. BUNDLED MEALS? CONSIDERED DEALS! Customers’ restaurant choices can be influenced by the offer of a bundled meal that perhaps includes an appetizer, entrée and dessert in either family packs or for individual meals. 5. MEAL KITS MAKE COOKING FUN. More than half of adults surveyed say they’d likely purchase a meal kit if it was offered by one of their favorite restaurants. That percentage rises to 75 percent for both millennials and Gen Z adults. Kits package pre-measured ingredients and instructions to make the restaurant meal at home. 6. MEAL SUBSCRIPTIONS. Customers sign up to get meals during the month for pickup or delivery—at a discounted price. More than half of consumers surveyed say they’d sign up if their favorite places offered this option. 7. SELLING GROCERIES. Seems like

anything that saves a trip gets a thumbs

10. HEALTHY AND DIET-SPECIFIC FOOD. To the same degree the availability of comfort foods influences restaurant choice, so do healthful menu options. Diet-specific items (gluten-free, vegan, etc.), however, are less important right now. Thirty-eight percent of on-premises customers say healthy choices would impact their restaurant choice.

For more information about the NRA’s trend report, or to download a copy, visit restaurant.org. And see our story about streamlining menus and adding some of customer’s favorite comfort foods in “Dish Up Take-Out Friendly Fare” on page 24.

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NEW CONTEST HONORS OWNERS OF Independent Mexican/Latin Restaurants OWNERS OF INDEPENDENT MEXICAN

on the owners of local, independent

AND OTHER LATIN-CUISINE RESTAU-

restaurants who are champions of

RANTS ARE VITAL MEMBERS OF THEIR

culture in their communities and

COMMUNITIES—they employ people,

who deserve to be recognized and

serve remarkable food, contribute

celebrated.”

their time and money, and otherwise make their communities better.

The contest is open to any owner of

But they rarely receive the recogni-

a Mexican or other Latin-cuisine res-

tion they deserve. A new contest

taurant with 10 or fewer locations.

co-sponsored by el Restaurante

Restaurant owners are welcome to

magazine and Jarritos will honor

nominate themselves and nomina-

these key individuals and families.

tions are being encouraged from restaurant customers, employees,

“Jarritos proudly supports the communities we come from, live in and do business with. This contest will shine a light on the owners of local, independent restaurants who are champions of culture in their communities and who deserve to be recognized and celebrated.” –ERIC DELAMARE, Marketing Director, Jarritos

“We have admired the strength,

and other people who know of a

talents and integrity of Mexican/

deserving restaurant owner. There

Latin restaurant owners since we

is no cost to nominate, and the nom-

launched el Restaurante magazine

ination form and rules can be found

more than two decades ago,” says

at www.elrestaurante.com/2021-

Ed Avis, the magazine’s publisher.

Independent-Contest. The deadline

“So, we are delighted to partner

for nominations is July 9, 2021.

with Jarritos in this special contest that will recognize their contribu-

First, second and third place win-

tions to society.”

ners will be selected. The winners will receive recognition through

The el Restaurante/Jarritos Inde-

articles in el Restaurante magazine

pendent Mexican/Latin Restaurant

and www.elrestaurante.com and

Owner of the Year Contest will

through social media. They also

honor three owners of Mexican/

will receive a cash prize of $5,000

Latin restaurants who exhibit a

for first place, $2,500 for second

commitment to serving their com-

place and $1,000 for third place,

munity, supporting their employees,

as well as a Jarritos cooler and a

and creating culturally authentic

supply of Jarritos.

cuisine. “We know that owning a Mexican/

el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

“Jarritos proudly supports the com-

Latin restaurant is a labor of pas-

munities we come from, live in and

sion for many people,” Avis says.

do business with,” says Eric Dela-

“And this new contest is designed to

mare, marketing director for Jar-

highlight owners who truly exhibit

ritos. “This contest will shine a light

that passion.”

hotline

NUEVO CONCURSO PREMIA A DUEÑOS DE restaurantes mexicanos/latinos independientes LOS PROPIETARIOS DE RESTAURANTES

rantes locales independientes que

INDEPENDIENTES DE COMIDA MEXI-

son campeones de la cultura en sus

CANA Y DE OTROS PAÍSES LATINOS

comunidades y que merecen ser

SON MIEMBROS IMPORTANTES DE SUS

reconocidos y homenajeados”.

COMUNIDADES: ofrecen empleo, sir-

ven comida extraordinaria, apor-

El concurso está abierto a cual-

tan su tiempo y dinero, y mejoran

quier dueño de un restaurante de

sus comunidades, sin embargo,

cocina mexicana o latina con 10

rara vez reciben el reconocimiento

sucursales o menos. Los propi-

que se merecen. Un nuevo concur-

etarios de restaurantes pueden

so copatrocinado por la revista

nominarse a sí mismos y alentamos

el Restaurante y Jarritos premiará

nominaciones por parte de los cli-

a estas personas y familias funda-

entes, empleados y otras personas

mentales.

que conozcan a un dueño de algún

“Admiramos la fuerza, el talento

“En Jarritos apoyamos con orgullo a las comunidades de las que venimos, en las que vivimos y con las que hacemos negocios. Este concurso destacará a los dueños de restaurantes locales independientes que son campeones de la cultura en sus comunidades y que merecen ser reconocidos y homenajeados”. –ERIC DELAMARE, director de marketing, Jarritos.

nar no tiene costo, y el formato de

restaurantes mexicanos/latinos

nominación y las reglas se pueden

desde que lanzamos la revista

encontrar en www.elrestaurante.

el Restaurante hace más de dos

com/2021-Independent-Contest.

décadas”, comentó Ed Avis, editor

La fecha límite para las nominacio-

de la revista. “Por eso nos entusias-

nes es el 9 de julio del 2021.

ma colaborar con Jarritos en este

Se seleccionarán los ganadores

concurso especial que reconocerá

del primer, segundo y tercer lugar.

sus aportes a la sociedad”.

Los ganadores recibirán un recono-

El concurso, Independent Mexi-

cimiento mediante artículos en

can/Latin Restaurant Owner of the

la revista el Restaurante y www.

Year, organizado por el Restaurante

elrestaurante.com, así como en

y Jarritos premiará a tres dueños

redes sociales. También recibirán

de restaurantes mexicanos/latinos

un premio en efectivo de $5000

que demuestren un compromiso

para el primer lugar, $2500 para el

de servir a su comunidad, apoyar a

segundo lugar y $1000 para el tercer

sus empleados y preparar comida

lugar, así como una hielera de Jar-

culturalmente auténtica.

ritos y un suministro de Jarritos.

“En Jarritos apoyamos con or-

10 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

restaurante que lo merezca. Nomi-

y la integridad de los dueños de

“Sabemos que ser dueño de un

gullo a las comunidades de las que

restaurante mexicano/latino es

venimos, en las que vivimos y con

una pasión para muchas perso-

las que hacemos negocios”, afirmó

nas”, comentó Avis. “Y este nuevo

Eric Delamare, director de market-

concurso está diseñado para de-

ing de Jarritos. “Este concurso

stacar a los dueños que realmente

destacará a los dueños de restau-

muestran esa pasión”.

It’s just a fact

hotline

Latino Restaurant Association Steps Up During COVID THE LATINO RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION (LRA), a Los Angeles-based trade group

include 2 to 3 hours of instruction per

founded in 2018, stepped up to help res-

week, will help owners create a business

taurants during the COVID-19 pandemic

plan, prepare financial paperwork, learn

and has big growth plans for 2021.

social media basics, and develop other

“We hope to even-

Our Drink Mixes will get you more re-orders

Margarita Mango Strawberry Passion Fruit Pineapple Pina Colada Rumrunner Peach Watermelon

Call for a Free sample

will be focused on restaurants. The first

organization with chap-

boot camp will be held in the spring and

ters in different states,

the second in the fall; registration opened

but now we are based

in January.

in California,” notes Lilly Rocha, one of the

www.stevesfrozenchillers.com

12 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

COVID-RELATED ACTIVITIES

group’s founders. Rocha also sits on the

The LRA has managed three programs

board of the Latino Food Industry Asso-

since the pandemic hit with devastating

ciation and owns the Sabor Latino trade

consequences for so many Latino restau-

show. She says she helped found the LRA

rant businesses.

because the needs of restaurants differ from other food industry businesses. “There are some needs in the Latino

The Feedling Frontliners program— sponsored by Walmart, Socal Gas, and other organizations—provided 8,090 meals

restaurant community that are unique

to individuals in the Los Angeles area.

to Latino restaurant owners and we

The meals were purchased from 27 Latino

wanted to address those needs and offer

restaurants; each received an average of

resources,” she says. “Since COVID, we’ve

$4,655 in business from the program. Dine Latino, which ran from September

response we’ve developed our program-

29 to October 4, encouraged residents

ming for 2021.”

to eat out at Latino restaurants. The LRA

Rocha says one thing she noticed dur-

promoted special deals being offered by

ing COVID was that many Latino restau-

34 restaurants in Los Angeles. Rocha says

rant owners did not have robust web

the association plans to hold two Dine

sites that could easily support takeout

Latino events in 2021.

and delivery service, which hurt those

“We’re now doing 12 Days of Takeout,”

restaurants’ ability to tap that revenue

Rocha said in December. “We’re encouraging

stream. “Another issue was that Latino

the public to order takeout at least once a

restaurant owners weren’t necessarily

day in the 12 days leading up to Christmas.”

prepared with their business paperwork,

Latino restaurants with five or fewer lo-

and when they applied for the PPP loans,

cations can join the LRA for $99 per year;

that was a problem,” she says. “Many also

right now, the association is offering two

don’t have established relationships with

years for the price of one. Members can

banking professionals.”

participate in all of the LRA’s programs,

In response to these issues, the LRA

(800)572-2252

skills. Everything in the training program

tually be a national

seen a lot of what those needs are, and in

Most popular flavors:

ness skills. The virtual event, which will

including the Boot Camps and the monthly

is sponsoring two sessions of a six-week

social mixers. Corporate memberships

“Business Boot Camp” to help restau-

are also available. For more information,

rant owners improve their basic busi-

visit https://latinorestaurantassociation.org/

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From the field

A COVID

UPDATE BY KATHLEEN FURORE AND ED AVIS

EDITOR’S NOTE: Editor Kathleen Furore and Publisher Ed Avis reached out to three el Restaurante readers to find out how they weathered the COVID-inflicted challenges of 2020 and how they’re moving ahead with hope in 2021.

AGAVE & RYE

When the pandemic hit,

Yavonne Sarber, founder and CEO

we took a step back, then got

Yavonne Sarber acknowl-

running. When we saw the

edges that COVID presented

demand was strong, we went

challenges for her and her

full steam ahead. Our Lou-

team at Agave & Rye. But the

isville location was already

brand quickly pivoted, and

open at that point, and we

actually opened new restau-

found our Troy, Ohio location

rants in 2020. Papi Jocho’s,

around the time we opened

a new concept featuring

the restaurant in Rookwood.

authentic Mexican hot dogs

Shortly thereafter, we signed

and street tacos, opened in

to open our sixth restaurant

Covington, Kentucky. And

in New Albany, Indiana.

our carryout back up and

new locations of Agave &

another Agave & Rye coming

ER: How did the restaurants manage to keep business thriving when other establishments struggled? Did they get PPP funding? Tweak the menu or the concept? YS: We did receive a PPP

to Albany, Indiana soon.

loan, but it was quite small,

Rye debuted in Rookwood and Troy, Ohio, joining their sister restaurants in Covington, Lexington and Louisville, Kentucky and Liberty Township, Ohio. And there’s even

allowing us just enough mon-

14 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

el Restaurante: Did Agave & Rye have plans in place to open those new locations before the pandemic hit? If so, how far along were they with the planning and how did those plans change as a result of COVID? Yavonne Sarber: While we

etary support to open back

didn’t plan on opening our

adapted the menu to offer

newest locations before the

only six items. Business grew

pandemic, we did already

quickly and we were able to

have growth plans in place.

expand to our full menu in

Before we had chosen to

about 30 days. Ultimately,

open a restaurant in Rook-

menu items that didn’t travel

wood, we had another

well were discontinued and

up. At that time, we had just self-funded the opening of the Louisville restaurant and our working capital was low. With the shutdown, our bank accounts were hemorrhaging. However, when we began offering carryout options, we

location selected; Rookwood

new “Not a Taco” menu items

became a better opportu-

were added, including our

nity that we decided to take

Epic Chicken Sandwich, our

advantage of.

Epic Burger and our Street

Tacos, which are performing well to this day. It was important to us that we adjust our business to fit the times. We had to rethink packaging to include better containers that were more breathable, and the way we processed carryout orders was refined. Today, each order is signed by the team member who packaged it, placed into a clear bag that’s sealed, then signed again by the team member who pre-

The interior and patio at Maria’s Mexican & Latin Cuisine

pared the order. amazing and one-of-a-kind. It’s

ER: What advice do you have for restaurants still struggling to stay afloat? YS: This is always a challeng-

anticipated that guests will

ing question. I wouldn’t rec-

standard for ourselves now.

struggle after the pandemic is over, so we’re setting an unprecedented and high

ommend considering opening a restaurant concept if it’s already a commodity business. Your restaurant should

MARIA’S MEXICAN & LATIN CUISINE

be a destination and an

Mary Mones, owner

experience guests can’t get

Mary Mones opened Maria’s

anywhere else. Similarly, if

Mexican & Latin Cuisine in

your guests can recreate your

Nesconset, New York nearly

work at home, it won’t make

18 years ago. COVID has

what to do. Then my good

as big of impact as it could. If

taken a toll, but from May to

friend Tony called me and

you truly have created a des-

October, 2020 she discovered

said, “Listen, you better do

ER: Did you have some outdoor seating prior to that? MM: No, I always had a garden

tination, you’ll foster loyalty

that business was actually up

something. I’ll help you.”

out there, but I never envi-

and guests will continue to

over the previous year.

So, we decided to put in an

sioned a patio there. New York

outdoor garden patio. We

State is tough with seating ca-

ordered the stuff and had

pacity and other restrictions,

it up and running in a week

but luckily the Town of Smith-

and a half. We set it up with

town gave us the permits. I

tables for four or eight people

think having the garden patio

“playground.” We’re creating

el Restaurante: Why was your business up when so many other restaurants were suffering? Mary Mones: I had closed

each in their own little area,

has set a precedent—when

something that causes guests

down completely for the first

separated by palm trees. That

this is over, a lot people might

to want to leave their homes

month because everybody

really brought our business

not want to go back inside. I

to experience something

was scared and didn’t know

to another level.

think it’s going to be 50/50.

visit your restaurant—even in the most challenging times. We truly feel we’ve created an escape, and we’ve started calling Agave & Rye a

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

From the field

ER: Do you have some indoor seating now? MM: Yes, we can seat 50

definitely a lot more now. At

unsociable business.”

I feel for those people. And

the beginning we were doing

What I mean is that in the

we have a 10 o’clock curfew.

our own deliveries, but I felt

restaurant industry, you try

I was taught never to kick

percent now. I made these

that was too much liability, so

to bend over backwards to

anyone out, but when I heard

neat little dividers between

I partnered with DoorDash.

make people feel welcome.

the authorities go around

the tables. We didn’t use

They take a pretty hefty

Now I feel we always have to

checking, I knew I couldn’t let

plexiglass—we used a special

chunk of change, so I’m going

be on our guard. We have to

people stay later. I lower the

plastic that’s used in green-

to shop around. My cousin

tell people about the masks,

music—we try to do it softly.

houses. People like it. It gives

has two restaurants and we

and we’re taking their tem-

And no one has complained.

them privacy and makes them

did a deal with DoorDash that

peratures. Some people you

The only issue I’ve had is

feel safe. A lot of people ask if

they were supposed to charge

can’t say anything to—you

when people come with eight

I’m going to keep them. We’ll

us 20 percent instead of 30

don’t want them mad at you,

people, we just don’t have

see—it does cut down on ca-

percent, but they haven’t

you want them to come in

the room for that. They say,

pacity. Maybe I’ll leave some

done that.

and have a good time. That’s

“We used to be able to come

to make a romantic table area.

ER: Is your take-out and delivery business up this year? MM: We’ve always done a certain amount of that, but it’s

the stressful thing. Going

here with this many people.”

ER: How are you feeling about the future? MM: What bothers me is that

out to eat is the only thing

I say, “I know, but we can’t

people can do right now.

now.” You just keep plugging.

You can’t go to a show, you

You just keep going forward.

running a restaurant is what

can’t go to Manhattan, you

I think we’re one of the fortu-

I’ve been calling the “social,

can’t go to a movie.

nate ones.

The patio at Monica’s Mex-Tex Cantina

MONICA’S MEX-TEX CANTINA

Monica Greene, owner Monica Greene opened Monica’s Mex-Tex Cantina in Dallas three years ago. She’s been in the restaurant business since 1974 and knows the ups and downs of being a restaurateur—a fact that helped guide her through the fears and uncertainty the past year brought.

el Restaurante: How are things going in your restaurant? Monica Greene: To use the word “mediocre” would be good. COVID started in March and we were advised to serve only to-go. Then on May 28 we got the first BLM protests, which shattered our streets more than a few times. Then

16 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

they put in a curfew. Those things combined made it impossible for us to do business. For three years previous to that we were attracting a lot of customers in the downtown. Now downtown is a void space. People aren’t working downtown, and people are no longer living there.

ER: What have you done to stay in business? MG: We did a lot of things. We changed our hours so we’re only open from Wednesday to Saturday. Monday and Tuesday were slow anyway. This reduced labor costs and allowed us to keep all of our permanent employees. We also reduced the menu to [include only] everybody’s favorites, meaning we utilize less inventory but get the

The Optimal Automatics Autodoner is ideal for preparing cones of al pastor and other stacked meats. Comes in many sizes and models, including natural gas, electric, and LP.

same results—people continue to get what they are looking for. This is a Mexico City restaurant more than Tex-Mex. And I live in a city where Tex-Mex reigns. I understand what customers want. For example we have a Mexican lasagna—layers of corn tortillas with roasted corn and black beans. And fajitas always sell well. But we continue

Se habla espanol Se habla espanol 847-439-9110 847-439-9110 www.optimalautomatics.com www.optimalautomatics.com

to enjoy customers who come here for special dishes like cochinita pibil and jicama tacos.

ER: Do you have outdoor dining? MG: Yes, I had the square footage to set up outdoor dining. We allocated money to redo the patios so they are as attractive to the customer as dining inside.

ER: How are you feeling about the future? MG: We are hoping that in 2021, with the vaccine and people having a responsible attitude toward the pandemic, that in six months we’ll return to some semblance of what used to be. Right now, we’re at 50 percent capacity, but even if we were allowed 100 percent, people are not going to want to sit next to each other. So, I think we’ll have to live with the 50 percent capacity. All of us have to collectively work together to make this environment safe. We have to convey to people that without their support, restaurants will not be able to make it. We’re not an abstraction. We are always there for the community. JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

Sou p's

Smoky Sweet Potato and Lentil Tortilla Soup PHOTO BY ALANNA TAYLOR-TOBIN (BOJONGOURMET.COM)

18 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

On! | BY KATHLEEN FURORE | Soups might not be the first thing your customers think of when they’re deciding what to order. But it is, in fact, one of the first and most traditional courses in Mexican cuisine. “Here in Mexico, the practice of eating soup as the first course of the main meal was introduced during the colonial period,” says writer and Mexican food expert Karen Hursh Graber in a story at mexconnect.com. In fact, she adds, it is “a first course that is required on any comida corrida menu…most Mexicans do not consider their main meal complete without a bowl of soup to start it off.” If you haven’t paid much attention to the soups on your menu, now is a good time to consider the category. “As we all adjust to our new COVID-19 reality, there’s one

Chilled Avocado & Roasted Poblano Soup PHOTO COURTESY OF CALIFORNIA AVOCADO COMMISSION

and downright comforting food

avocadoes, crema, queso fresco,

than the bowl of soup.”

cilantro and lime wedges is the

thing that will continue to shine

classic familiar to most custom-

through…our need for comfort

TORTILLA SOUP

ers. But putting new twists on

during such uncertain times,” Chef

Tortilla soup is an almost ubiqui-

this traditional dish is one way

Steven Winka notes in Culinary

tous offering on Mexican restau-

to boost interest in your soup

Chronicles, an online platform

rant menus.

menu—and in the process,

from Syrmise Flavor that offers in-

The version made with chicken

possibly boost soup sales, too. According to Winka, Masa Ball

formation about food and beverage

broth, roasted tomatoes, onion,

trends. “There is arguably no more

garlic, chiles and tortillas, and

Soup (a “twist/word play on the

nostalgia-inducing, approachable

garnished with ingredients like

classic Ashkenazi Jewish Matzo JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

| COVER STORY |

Cold Case: Chilled Soups for Warm Weather Menus EDITOR’S NOTE: While hot soups can be popular on menus yearround, adding cold soups gives customers a light, refreshing option during warm-weather months when a steaming bowl of tortilla soup might not sound that appealing. Here, in this excerpt from a story at mexconnect.com, Mexican food expert and el Restaurante contributing writer Karen Hursh Graber explores the history of cold soups in Mexico. Here in Central Mexico, where the weather is cool for most of the year, hot soup seems appropriate, but there are warm times, too. That’s when cold soup makes a wonderfully refreshing first course or light supper. There is also something elegant about cold soup, perhaps because one of the first ones that come to mind is vichyssoise, the French favorite brought to Mexico with the ill-fated Maximilian and Carlotta, whose meals at Chapultepec Castle were nothing if not elegant. The Spanish gazpacho was also perfect for Mexican menus and underwent several revisions in its home country thanks to the New World natives, tomatoes. One wonders how different Mediterranean cooking would be today without the introduction of tomatoes. It was Alice B. Toklas, in discussing the variations on gazpachos, who observed that “recipes, through conquests and occupations, have traveled far.” Certainly, the conquest of Mesoamerica was a perfect example of this, and Mexico has put its own spin on gazpacho with the addition of characteristic ingredients like tomatillo and cilantro. Another tasty Mexican adaptation of a European dish is a cold goat cheese soup, gaining in popularity as goat cheese has become more common in supermarkets than it has been in

Red and Green Pozole

Ball Soup”) is one example of

small, corn ball dumplings

can add different herbs and

smoked paprika and chipotle

a recipe that highlights “some

with a crater in the center—

even fill them with cheese!”

that the recipe’s creator, cook-

new and exciting trends” that

that are typical in the south

Gencaerlli explains on her blog

book author and former pastry

Syrmise has been tracking in

and middle of Mexico.

at eatyoli.com. “I like to make

chef Alanna Taylor-Tobin,

the world of soup. “[It] simply

Marissa Gencarelli, who

them as part of my soup, and

says “add vibrant flavor to a pi-

replaces the matzo meal with

owns Yoli Tortilleria in Kansas

I make a nice size of batch so I

quant, brick red broth studded

masa harina, yielding a won-

City, Missouri with her hus-

can have leftovers for work.”

with chunks of creamy sweet

derfully hearty Mexican dish,”

band Mark, says chochoyotes

he reports.

can be cooked in a broth or be

ian rendition can also enhance

an ultra-nourishing vegetarian,

pan fried. “You can make sev-

your soup menu. One option:

vegan, and gluten-free sweet

interesting yet still-traditional

eral varieties depending on the

Sweet Potato Lentil Torti-

potato lentil tortilla soup

touch is to add chochoyotes—

type of oil you use [and] you

lla Soup. The dish features

topped with all the fixings.”

Another way to add an

20 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Adding a vegan and vegetar-

potato and tender lentils for

(continued on page 22)

local mercados. Using a base of chicken broth, with the surprising addition of a tart green apple, this is a sophisticated soup, put together in short order using that Mexican kitchen stalwart, la licuadora—the blender. An immersion blender is also handy for preparing these soups. Then there is the walnut cream soup that I first had many years ago at the Hacienda de los Morales in Mexico City, and which has remained on the menu, always available served hot or cold, according to the diner’s preference. I’ve made it both ways, depending upon the mood and season. There are several variations on cold avocado soup, a Mexican classic open to many interpretations. There is the version from Tabasco, which includes fresh green chiles; Western Mexico’s avocado soup flavored with tequila; and from the Costa Maya, a soup that uses ginger root and cilantro leaves and seeds, giving it a Southeast Asian taste (not surprising, considering that Mexico and Southeast Asia have so many culinary ingredients in common). Another coastal Mexican cold soup is a shrimp soup reminiscent of gazpacho, but with a base of shrimp stock rather than tomatoes. This is a good lunch dish, an appetizer, or a satisfying late supper in hot weather. Countless Mexican soups, cold as well as hot, call for a base of chicken stock or broth. With cold soups, it is especially important to make the stock ahead of time and chill it to bring all the fat to the top, and thoroughly remove it. Several of these soups get a bright, fresh flavor from a squeeze of lemon or lime. Always use fresh citrus, since the squeeze bottle lemon and lime juices give food an “off” taste. It is also important to serve cold soups just that way—cold— rather than tepid. They should be chilled in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Chochoyotes PHOTO COURTESY OF YOLI TORTILLERIA

| COVER STORY |

POZOLE

in all three varieties: green

While pozole is included in a

(verde), red (rojo) and white

list of the Top 7 Most Popular

(blanco)—the colors of the

Mexican Stews on TasteAtlas.

Mexican flag.

com, it is sometimes de-

Green pozole—which

scribed as a cross between

can include ingredients

a soup and a stew—and it

like tomatillos, cilantro and

is typically included on the

jalapeños—is popular in

soup or appetizer section of

Guerrero, where green toma-

restaurant menus.

toes are sometimes used in

Pozoleria San Juan in

the broth. Red pozole, which

Chicago describes it as “a

relies more heavily on chiles

ritually significant, tradi-

such as the guajillo, ancho or

tional pre-Columbian soup

piquin, is the characteristic

or stew from Mexico…

dish in Jalisco.

mentioned in Fray Bernardi-

Birria

While the dish is tradition-

no de Sahagún’s General

ally made with pork, chicken

History of the Things of New

is also often used. Avila’s res-

Spain circa 1500 CE.” The

taurant in Dallas, for example,

restaurant offers its pozole

features chicken and hominy

neHUB COLLECTION

JERKY SLICER VEGETABLE CUTTER

STUNNING DESIGN FOR ANY KITCHEN

22 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

MEAT CUTTER MEAT GRINDER

ONE MOTOR MULTIPLE ATTACHMENTS

MEAT TENDERIZER

SAVE LABOR COSTS INCREASE PROFITS

in a cascabel broth, served

cooked goat stew from Jalisco.

and vegetables such as corn

with garnishes that include

Cascabel Mexican Patio in San

and Mexican squash; it can

chopped onions, radishes,

Antonio offers a homemade

include potatoes, green beans,

purple cabbage, oregano, fresh

version with shredded goat

and xoconostle. Cascabel

jalapenos and lime.

meat cooked in the restaurant’s

Mexican Patio’s version is a

And at Los Arroyos in Santa

special cascabel sauce, served

bone-in beef soup cooked

Barbara, California, diners can

with cilantro, onions and limes

with cascabel sauce, zucchini

opt for homemade red pozole

along with two corn tortillas.

and corn (on cob), served

with chicken or pork, served

MANCHAMANTELES, which

with a side of rice and two

with homemade tortillas plus

translates to “tablecloth

corn tortillas.

avocado, cilantro, radishes

stainer,” includes meat,

CHURIPO, a spicy combination

and onions on the side.

chiles, vegetables and fruit.

of beef, vegetables and chiles

Some typical ingredients

that hails from Michoacán.

MEATY SOUPS AND STEWS

include turkey, chorizo, pork,

Restaurants that want to

pineapple, apples, pears,

include a heartier selection

bananas, chiles, almonds,

of soups and stews have

cinnamon, lard and tomatoes.

many options to consider.

MOLE DE OLLA, a traditional

Among the top contenders:

Mexican dish made from a

BIRRIA, the traditional, slow-

base of dried chile sauce, beef,

See recipe for Sweet Potato Lentil Tortilla Soup on page 53. To find more recipes for hot and cold soups to add to your menu, visit elrestaurante.com/recipes/soup.

“[SOUP] IS A FIRST COURSE THAT IS REQUIRED ON ANY COMIDA CORRIDA MENU…MOST MEXICANS DO NOT CONSIDER THEIR MAIN MEAL COMPLETE WITHOUT A BOWL OF SOUP TO START IT OFF.” –KAREN HURSH GRABER

Kathleen Furore is the editor of el Restaurante.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

better basics

TRANSFORMED MENUS FOR A TRANSFORMED MARKETPLACE That Old Pueblo’s cheese crisp has done so well isn’t a surprise—nor is it an anomaly. In 2020, convenient dishes that traveled well proved the lifeline that helped many restaurants hang on through what The NPD Group calls “one of the most unpopular years in history”—one that brought with it “the steepest declines the industry has experienced since the Great Recession.” Businesses that already had strong carryout and delivery menus (think pizzerias and QSRs), as well as those that New to the neighborhood: Old Pueblo Cantina’s Pancho’s Pick-Up window

pivoted to add those options, weathered pandemic challenges most successfully; those that didn’t, not so much. Take pizzerias, for example. According

DISH UP

to a report from Pizza Today magazine released in November, they have fared far better than the overall restaurant

Take-out Friendly Fare

industry. And although 60 percent of

| BY KATHLEEN FURORE | The pick-up

quickly—and it’s never been off since,”

more over 2019 sales.

window carved out of the brick at Old

says Ashleigh Englenton, Old Pueblo’s

Pueblo Cantina isn’t what you’d expect

manager.

to find at an upscale Mexican restaurant

The Carne Seca version with green chile, pico de gallo and cotija “is the

Lincoln Park neighborhood. But there

owner’s favorite and the

it is—Pancho’s Pick-Up, added just

one we always recom-

after COVID brought inside dining to a

mend,” Englenton adds,

halt. One menu item customers have

noting that the take-andbake option is best for

waxed and waned? The Sonoran Cheese

carryout customers be-

Crisp, available in cooked or take-and-

cause baking the cheese

bake form.

crisps at home best recre-

“We took it off the menu in the first early lock-down, but brought it back

24 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

ates the dish the way it is served in the restaurant.

crease in sales, the report showed that 50 percent of those that experienced sales growth were up by 16 percent or Based on data from the National Restaurant Association’s 2021 State of

in the heart of Chicago’s very gentrified

carried out as dining restrictions have

pizza restaurants experienced a de-

the Restaurant Industry Report, which

Old Pueblo’s Carne Seca Sonoran Cheese Crisp

(continued on page 27)

your gateway to latin food & beverage buyers No matter what equipment, ingredients, beverages or restaurant and grocery store supplies you offer, you’ll connect with a booming market of buyers at Cocina Sabrosa Trade Expo. At the only U.S. trade expo and wholesale market dedicated to the Latin Food and Beverage Industry, you’ll meet in-person with the industry’s most influential foodservice distributors, retail stores, chefs, restaurants, taquerías, bars, panaderías, carnicerías and local grocers. Don’t miss your best opportunity to build lasting relationships with restauranteurs with more than $45 billion in buying power, who are responsible for the fastest-growing restaurant segment in the nation.

book your booth ! | cocinaexpo.com @CocinaSabrosaExpo

@CocinaSabrosaTradeExpo

better basics

WHAT CUSTOMERS WANT So, the question for restaurants that want to retool menus to incorporate more carryout and delivery items is this: “What kind of food do my customers want?” According to the NRA’s report, “a good selection of comfort foods”—which respondents said “influenced their restaurant choices”—is the answer. The following list ranks the popularity of specific menu items based on the responses from 6,000 operators contacted for the survey when asked what the No. 1-selling item on their menus was “right now.” FULLSERVICE

LIMITED SERVICE

(fine dining, family and casual dining)

(Quickservice, fast casual, coffee & snack)

1. Burgers

1. Sandwiches/subs/wraps

2. Seafood

2. Pizza

3. Pizza

3. Burgers

4. Steak

4. Chicken (excluding wings)

5. Chicken (excluding wings)

5. Ice cream/cookies/cake

6. Breakfast items

6. Baked good

7. Pasta

7. Breakfast items

8. Mexican food

9. Sandwiches/subs/wraps

9. Barbecue

10. Chicken wings

10. Seafood

How can you get customers craving burgers, pizza, sandwiches and other favorites on those lists to order from your restaurant? Here are a few suggestions: Latin-ize burgers. Jalapeño bacon burger with cheese, onion, jalapeño and pineapple at Tequila Grill in Huntington, West Virginia; The Gringa topped with al pastor pork marinated in guajillo, achiote and species with grilled onions, queso, grilled pineapple and chipotle aioli at VTP Grill in Chicago; Brisket Sliders at Socalo in Santa Monica, California. Tempt with ethnic-themed pizzas. Old Pueblo’s Sonoran Cheese Crisp in Queso (with chihuahua, cotija and longhorn cheddar), Green Chile (with cotija and longhorn cheddar), Carne Seca (with green chile, pico de gallo and cotija), and Spicy Chorizo (with escabeche, cotija and cilantro); the Elotero topped with queso Oaxaca, guajillo-braised pork shoulder and corn Requeson—the recipe that took top prize in the 2020 Real California Pizza Contest/Cal-Mex category, sponsored by the California Milk Advisory Board (see the recipe on page 54). Wing it! Brinker International, the parent company of Chilis, recently launched the virtual brand It’s Just Wings. Consider following suit by adding wings to your menu, and pair them with creative Mexican- and Latin-inspired sauces. Honey Chipotle, Santa Fe, and Mango Habanero are three sauces It’s Just Wings offers.

Have you added new “comfort” foods to make your carryout and delivery menus more appealing? If so, email editor Kathleen Furore at kfurore@restmex.com— we might feature your new menu item in a future issue.

26 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

The Brisket Slider at Socalo in Santa Monica, California (@socalorestaurant)

The Elotero—1st Place Winner in the 2020 Real California Pizza Contest (recipe on page 54)

measures the coronavirus’s impact on the

pandemic and 53 percent of consumers

dent, Research and Knowledge Group, in

industry and examines current trends,

say takeout and delivery is essential to

a statement about the report. “We’ve also

demand for carryout and delivery likely

the way they live,” the report says.

found that even as the vaccine becomes

will remain even as pandemic fears

“Restaurants are the cornerstone of our

more available and more social occasions

communities, and our research shows a

return to restaurants, consumers will

clear consumer desire to enjoy restaurants

continue to desire expanded off-premises

part of people’s routines, with 68 percent

on-premises more than they have been

options going forward. Both will continue

of consumers more likely to purchase

able to during the pandemic,” said the

to be key for industry growth.”

takeout from a restaurant than before the

NRA’s Hudson Riehle, senior vice presi-

Kathleen Furore is editor of el Restaurante.

and restrictions subside. “Takeout and delivery have become a

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

better basics

o disminuyeron? El Sonoran Cheese Crisp, es un plato de quesadillas de cara abierta hechas con tortillas que está disponible en dos versiones, cocinada o para llevar al horno. “Lo eliminamos del menú en el primer cierre, pero lo recuperamos rápidamente, y desde entonces no ha vuelto a suspenderse”, dice Ashleigh Englenton, gerente de Old Pueblo. La versión de Carne Seca con chile verde, pico de gallo y queso cotija “es la favorita del propietario y la que siempre recomendamos”, añade Englenton, quien señala que la opción de llevar y preparar es la mejor para los clientes de comida para llevar, ya que cocinar las

La ventanilla de servicio en Old Pueblo

Brinda servicio de comida para llevar agradable Carne Seca Sonoran Cheese Crisp de Old Pueblo

patatas fritas de queso en casa recrea mejor el plato tal y como se sirve en el restaurante.

MENÚS TRANSFORMADOS PARA UN MERCADO RENOVADO Que el crujiente a base de queso de Old Pueblo haya fun-

| POR KATHLEEN FURORE |

cionado tan bien no es una sor-

La ventanilla de servicio de

presa, de hecho, tampoco es

comida para llevar incor-

algo raro. En 2020, los platos

porada en el edificio de Old

prácticos que se transportan

Pueblo Cantina no es lo que

con facilidad fueron el sal-

uno esperaría encontrar en un

vavidas que ayudó a muchos

restaurante mexicano de lujo en

restaurantes a sobrevivir a lo

el corazón del prestigioso bar-

que The NPD Group denomina

rio de Lincoln Park de Chicago.

“uno de los años más poco

Pero ahí está: Pancho’s Pick-Up,

populares de la historia”, uno

instalda justo después de que la

que trajo consigo “los descen-

COVID pusiera fin a las comidas

sos más pronunciados que ha

en el restaurante. ¿Cuál es el

experimentado el sector desde

plato del menú que los clientes

la Gran Recesión”. Aquellos

siguen consumiendo a pesar de

negocios que ya contaban con

las restricciones aumentaron

sólidos menús para llevar y (más en la página 30)

“Nuestra publicidad en la revista el Restaurante fue muy positiva.

LO QUE QUIEREN LOS CLIENTES Por lo tanto, la pregunta para los restaurantes que desean reestructurar sus menús para incorporar más artículos para llevar y entregar es la siguiente: “¿Qué tipo de comida quieren mis clientes?” De acuerdo con el informe de la NRA, la respuesta es “una buena selección de alimentos confortables”, que según los encuestados “influye en sus elecciones de restaurantes”. La siguiente lista clasifica la popularidad de elementos específicos del menú basándose en las respuestas de 6.000 operadores consultados para la encuesta al preguntarles cuál era el elemento número 1 en ventas de sus menús “en este momento”. SERVICIO COMPLETO

SERVICIO LIMITADO

(cena fina, familiar y casual)

(Servicio rápido, casual y rápido, café y meriendas)

1. Hamburguesas

1. Sandwiches/submarinos/envueltos

2. Mariscos

2. Pizza

3. Pizza

3. Hamburguesas

4. Bistec

4. Pollo (excluyendo las alas)

5. Pollo (excluyendo las alas)

5. Helado/galletas/pastelería

6. Artículos para el desayuno

6. Productos horneados

7. Pasta

7. Alimentos para el desayuno

8. Comida mexicana

9. Sandwiches/subs/envueltos

9. Barbacoa

10. Alitas de pollo

10. Mariscos

¿Cómo puede conseguir que los clientes que tienen antojo de hamburguesas, pizzas, sándwiches y otros productos favoritos de esas listas ordenen en su restaurante? Aquí tiene algunas sugerencias: Hamburguesas Latin-ize. Hamburguesa de tocino jalapeño con queso, cebolla, jalapeño y piña en Tequila Grill en Huntington, West Virginia; La Gringa cubierta con cerdo al pastor marinado en guajillo, achiote y especies con cebollas asadas, queso, piña asada y alioli de chipotle en VTP Grill en Chicago; Brisket Sliders en Socalo en Santa Mónica, California. Tiente con pizzas de temática étnica. La Old Pueblo’s Sonoran Cheese Crisp in Queso (con chihuahua, cotija y longhorn cheddar), Green Chile (con cotija y longhorn cheddar), Carne Seca (con chile verde, pico de gallo y cotija), y Spicy Chorizo (con escabeche, cotija y cilantro); la Elotero cubierta con queso Oaxaca, paleta de cerdo braseada al guajillo y maíz con Requesón, la receta que se llevó el primer premio en el Concurso de Pizzas Real California 2020 en la categoría Cal-Mex, patrocinado por la Junta Asesora de la Leche de California (ver la receta en la página 54). ¡Alas! Brinker International, la empresa matriz de Chilis, lanzó recientemente la marca online It’s Just Wings. Considere la opción de añadir alitas a su menú y acompañarlas con salsas creativas de inspiración mexicana y latina. Chipotle con miel, Santa Fe y Mango Habanero son tres de las salsas que ofrece Its Just Wings.

¿Agregó nuevos alimentos “agradables” para hacer más atractivos sus menús de comida para llevar y entregar? Si es así, envíe un correo electrónico a la editora Kathleen Furore a kfurore@restmex.com—para que incluya su nuevo menú en un próximo número.

Hemos experimentado un aumento en la demanda de nuestros productos y en el conocimiento de la marca entre restaurantes mexicanos/latino s desde que comenzamos con la publicidad, y creemos que es el resultado directo de nuestro trabajo con el editor Ed Avis y su equipo. Siempre sentimos que el personal de el Restaurante se preocupa por nuestro crecimiento en el mercado y trabaja para beneficiar nuestro negocio.” Gordon, Sales Manager, American Eagle Food Machinery, Inc.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

better basics

The Elotero Pizza (receta en la página 54)

“LA COMIDA PARA LLEVAR Y EL SERVICIO DE ENTREGA SE HAN CONVERTIDO EN PARTE DE LA RUTINA DE LA GENTE…” –ASOCIACIÓN NACIONAL DE RESTAURANTES

Brisket Slider de Socalo, Santa Monica, California

entregar (como las pizzerías

2021 de la Asociación Na-

piedra angular de nuestras

y los QSR), así como los que

cional de Restaurantes, que

comunidades, por lo que

se adaptaron para añadir

mide el impacto del coronavi-

nuestra investigación muestra

esas opciones, superaron

rus en la industria y examina

un claro interés de los con-

con éxito los desafíos de la

las tendencias actuales, es

sumidores por disfrutar de los

pandemia; aquellos que no

probable que la demanda

restaurantes en sus locales

lo hicieron, no tanto.

de comida para llevar y

más de lo que han podido

entregar se mantenga incluso

durante la pandemia”, dijo

zerías. Según un informe

cuando los temores y las

Hudson Riehle, vicepresidente

de la revista Pizza Today

restricciones de la pandemia

senior del Grupo de Investig-

publicado en el mes de

disminuyan.

ación y Conocimiento de la

Por ejemplo, con las piz-

noviembre, les ha ido mucho

“La comida para llevar y

NRA, en un comunicado sobre

mejor que al sector de la

el servicio de entrega se han

el informe. “También hemos

gastronomía en general. Y

convertido en parte de la

comprobado que, incluso

aunque el 60 por ciento de

rutina de la gente, con un

cuando la vacuna esté más

las pizzerías experimentaron

68 % de consumidores más

disponible y los restaurantes

un descenso en las ventas,

propensos a comprar comida

vuelvan a tener más ocasio-

dicho informe mostró que el

para llevar en un restaurante

nes sociales, en el futuro los

50 por ciento de las que ex-

que antes de la pandemia y un

consumidores seguirán de-

perimentaron un crecimiento

53 % de consumidores que

seando ampliar las opciones

en las ventas aumentaron un

dicen que la comida para

fuera del local. Ambas cosas

16 por ciento o más respecto

llevar y el servicio de entrega

seguirán siendo clave para el

a las ventas de 2019. De

a domicilio son esenciales

crecimiento del sector”.

acuerdo con los datos del

para su forma de vida”, dice

Informe sobre el Estado de

el informe.

la Industria del Restaurante

30 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

“Los restaurantes son la

Kathleen Furore es editora de el Restaurante.

at the bar

| BY ELYSE GLICKMAN | Yes, Virginia, there is life after the

industry pros say. “As people are going to be

Miller, head bartender for

tive to a dessert, especially

Bodega Taqueria y Tequila i

if the diner doesn’t want to

holidays—along with more

outdoor dining year-round for

n Miami, Florida. “Although

end the meal with something

reasons for your customers

the indefinite future, I think

I relocated from the Midwest

heavy,” Hinojosa says. “[A]

to savor heated cocktails.

hot cocktails will be a welcome

to South Florida, where the

warm peach and ginger toddy

presence along with heaters

difference in climate is no-

also pairs beautifully with

bar drinks are poised for a

and heat lamps,” says bartend-

ticeable, there is something

familiar desserts like flan. In

comeback in 2021, according

er and Licor 43 brand ambas-

special and evocative about

the spring or summer, the

to “Do The Hustle,” a report

sador Mike Nardelli. “[And]

a warm cup of something

beautiful spices in the drink,

about 2021 food, beverage

after a long day at the beach

wonderful on a cool patio.”

along with a seasonal fruit,

and hospitality trends from

surfing or paddle boarding any

af&co and Carbonate. That

time of year, one of my favorite

global brand ambassador

spring evening, or actually

report, which says classics

things to do is go into a local

for Tequila Cazadores and

cool one off in the summer.”

like the Hot Toddy, Hot But-

watering hole and have a hot

Tequila Corzo, also believes

tered Rum and Irish Coffee

toddy before I head home just

adding seasonal ingredients

Toddy and Hot Chai Spice are

will outlast the holidays, also

to warm up,” he adds.

and flavors can prompt cus-

examples of other hot cock-

tomers to rediscover warm

tails Hinojosa has created.

Hot versions of favorite

predicts creative new cock-

“While cool weather is the

Bar master Manny Hinojosa,

can take the chill out of a

The Hot Apple & Orange

tails that incorporate hot tea,

best sales pitch for a warm

mulled wine, cider and coffee

drink, if the season does not

will emerge.

match the simple sell, there

restaurant setting, a warm

NEW TWISTS ON TRADITIONAL BEVERAGES

are other reasons [to order a

drink made with seasonal

Mexican and Latin restau-

hot cocktail],” echoes Hayden

fruit can be a lovely alterna-

rants—long go-to destinations

And their popularity won’t depend on the weather,

cocktails any time of year. “In a fine dining Mexican

The heat is on

HOT COCKTAILS FIRE UP BAR SALES

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

at the bar

Manny Hinojosa’s Hot Apple & Orange Toddy (right) and Hot Chai Spice (below)

favorite: Vasquez uses it in his

PHOTOS COURTESY OF PERFECT PUREE

Agave Hot Toddy, a cocktail he believes will catch on “because of everything that makes it different from other mezcal drinks being served right now.” This decidedly “different”

“In a fine dining Mexican restaurant setting, a warm drink made with seasonal fruit can be a lovely alternative to a dessert, especially if the diner doesn’t want to end the meal with something heavy.” —MANNY HINOJOSA, global brand ambassador, Tequila Cazadores and Tequila Corzo

cocktail is made with a threetimes distilled mezcal, tea Vasquez imports from Oaxaca, plus cinnamon, honey and a slice of lemon. “The way the mezcal is made is not too smoky [so it] allows the natu-

for icy Margaritas, Palomas

for Taco Cabana. Remolina’s

says that’s important to note

ral flavors of the tea to shine

and Mojitos—already have the

version starts with a base of

since people are spending

through,” Vasquez explains.

ingredients and flavor profiles

black tea to balance out the

more time at home and order-

“It’s also a great way for

to create compelling warm

sweetness that comes from

ing brunch to go this year.

customers who love mezcal to

cocktails.

the fruit in the cocktail.

In addition to offering “the

experience it hot, and in a way

“We wanted to create a

comforting aspect of the heat,”

they have not tried before.”

inventive riffs on hot coffee

version of the ponche that not

Lietz notes that adding ingredi-

drinks, according to Nardelli,

only speaks to holiday season

ents like fresh fruit and spices

nering well with tea, Bodega

who says bartenders can use

festivities but also what things

the way Taco Cabana does

Taqueria y Tequila’s Miller

traditional, non-alcoholic Mexi-

are actually in season in Mexico

makes hot cocktails “a new

says some gins and softer

can drinks as starting points.

through the winter months,”

experience for many of our

whiskies also are good back-

Nardelli’s colleague Juan Marti-

Remolina explains. “Our recipe

customers who did not grow

drops for botanicals with

nez, for example, has jazzed up

includes guava, cinnamon, or-

up with Mexican traditions.”

hints of citrus. He also likes

champurrado—a thick, warm

ange peel as well as fruits more

chocolate-based atole made

commonly found in Mexico,

SPIRITED CHOICES

as they open “a window of

with masa harina, piloncillo,

such as tejocotes (crab apples)

Ivan Vasquez, owner of Los

funky flavors to experiment

and water or milk—with Licor

and tamarind pods.”

Angeles’ Madre Oaxacan Res-

with, [as well as] the savory

taurant & Mezcaleria, embraces

notes from other bottlings.”

And their options go beyond

In addition to the Rum Tea

43. Another example Nardelli

In addition to mezcal part-

Mexican rums as a base,

has seen popping up in Los

Ponche, Taco Cabana also

the chance to craft hot cock-

Hot coffee also pairs well

Angeles restaurants is the

offers Café de Olla—both

tails that use popular spirits

with mezcal, notes Vasquez,

quintão, a traditional Brazilian

“rooted in Mexican traditions,”

in creative new ways. Take

who says staff members

grog made with cachaça and

Remolina says. “You’ll find Café

mezcal, a current customer

sometimes suggest hot coffee

spiced cider.

de Olla, traditionally made

The Agave Hot Toddy from Madre Oaxacan Restaurant & Mezcaleria

with a shot of mezcal—just

Ponche—a hot fruit punch

in a clay pot sweetened with

the way it’s served in Oaxaca.

typically served during the

piloncillo, served in Mexico all

“With customers who don’t

holidays in Mexico—is anoth-

year-round. It has found its way

like mezcal, we can offer the

er example. Chef Sergio Remo-

into Texas, where it is served

Oaxacan coffee with a shot of

lina, vice president of culinary

throughout the winter months.”

tequila or whiskey added and

for Taco Cabana in Dallas,

“The Café de Olla also works

start a conversation about

says childhood memories of

great in the morning,” adds

the ingredients of the finished

drinking ponche inspired him

Chef Chelsea Lietz, corporate

cocktails,” he adds.

to create a cocktail version

chef for Taco Cabana, who

32 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

(continued on page 34)

at the bar

A PRIMER ON TO-GO COCKTAIL PREP With to-go cocktails becoming a way of life for restaurants during this era of COVID-19, it’s important to know how to best prepare and package all of the cocktail ingredients. Here, Manny Hinojosa, global brand ambassador for Tequila Cazadores and Tequila Corzo, explains how to make the experience a safe and tasty one for customers who order hot cocktails for at-home consumption. “You have to package the drink for to-go orders using two different containers. One will contain the spirit-based ingredients such as the base tequila, rum or whiskey along with additional spirits or liqueurs. The other will hold the nonalcoholic parts of the mix,” Hinojosa says. “Supply the customer with verbal and printed instructions, cautioning them not to heat the alcohol. The only thing that should be reheated is the mix in a microwave-safe coffee mug, and for only the period of time written in the instructions. After about 30 seconds, the customer can add the liquor portion and enjoy.”

ALTERNATIVES TO CREAM

sell beyond dessert.

Many hot cocktails—especial-

One new trend brewing in

ly coffee-based creations—rely

that space is a move toward

on dairy products for smooth-

plant-based dairy alternatives.

ness and flavor. But using

At Sobre Mesa in Oakland,

your tea flavors,” he says. With availability and cost of

option, according to Taco Cabana’s Chef Lietz, who says

fresh ingredients also a major

they are right in line with the

concern, some establishments

return in popularity of morn-

are turning to shelf-stable cor-

ing or brunch cocktails, espe-

dials, shrubs and fruit purees

cially as winter chill lingers in

to create seasonal creations,

some places.

especially in times where to-

Making drink names “awe-

go drinks are the rule. Nardelli

some and catchy” is another

says tea-infused spirits and

approach, Nardelli says.

tea-based ingredients are

“Furthermore, with everyone

becoming more commonplace

spending so much time at

to achieve fresh flavored cock-

home in the past year, the idea

tails, either hot or cold.

of being out and having that

“There’s a lot of versatility

hot drink served in cool glass-

when you get into infusions

ware or with a memorable

in base spirits,” Nardelli

backstory will make people

explains. “You can infuse

want to order it,” he adds.

20 bottles of tequila with

Presenting warm cocktails

different teas, add lime juice,

as a “special of the day” also

and you’ll have 20 different

can help.

cocktails as a result, including

“Make sure you have all

some that taste best heated.”

the information about regular

According to Remolina,

warm cocktails and specials

health-conscious consumers

on your online menus to grab

are steering themselves to-

their attention,” Hinojosa says.

dairy-based ingredients can

California, for example, the

wards more interesting spice

“When customers get to the

create challenges: they aren’t

Cremosa de Cocoa cocktail

combinations. “In addition

restaurant, encourage them to

shelf-stable and often impart a

blends spiced rum, red wine,

to cinnamon, we’re talking

try these cocktails and explain

heaviness many customers no

sweet potato liqueur, chocolate,

about star anise, cardamom,

what makes the special of the

longer enjoy.

toasted marshmallow, ginger,

peppers and other spices that

day truly special. I like to call

and [non-dairy] coconut crema.

warm us up,” he says.

the warm cocktails ‘night caps’

MARKETING TIPS

cream,” says Vasquez. “While

CONCENTRATES, INFUSIONS AND SPICES

Even with many curious cus-

a cozy note, made more beauti-

the final result was great, it

For bars looking to reconcile

tomers looking for something

ful with the mix of fruit, teas

was too labor-intensive, and

quality and convenience in

new, there will be others hesi-

spices and spirits. In addition to

we found out that the whipped

their to-go offerings, Miller sug-

tant to get beyond their cold

citrus fruits, which are always

cream expired after a day. Be-

gests preparing a concentrate

comfort zone. Those preach-

go-to ingredients for Mexican

cause of the necessity to keep

from tea to make your syrup

ing the wonders of the heated

cocktails, you can keep interest

things fresh, our recipes have

and simply introducing a lower

cocktail have a few effective

up throughout the year with

to be simpler, with less sugar

temperature water to the cock-

strategies to get them to

peaches, cherries, berries and

and heaviness.”

tail. “This ensures you will not

warm those customers up

other fruits—in the shelf-stable

be over-heating the spirit, giv-

to the concept.

forms like puree, of course.”

“We tried to create a warm cocktail with Oaxacan coffee and our house-made whipped

And as Miller notes, heavy drinks made with cream and

ing the nose too much bite from

alcohol are usually a harder

fumes while still incorporating

34 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Promoting warm cocktails on brunch menus is one

as they can end a meal and an evening—on or off premise—on

See recipes for hot cocktails starting on page 53.

en el bar

| POR ELYSE GLICKMAN |

con una simple venta, hay

Sí, Virginia, hay vida después

otras razones [para pedir un

mexicano de alta cocina, una

NUEVOS ENFOQUES PARA LAS BEBIDAS TRADICIONALES

de las fiestas, además de más

cóctel caliente]”, se hace eco

bebida caliente hecha con

Los restaurantes mexicanos y

razones para que tus clientes

Hayden Miller, cantinero jefe

fruta de temporada puede ser

latinos, que han sido durante

saboreen cócteles calientes.

de Bodega Taqueria y Tequila

una alternativa encantadora a

mucho tiempo destinos de

en Miami, Florida. “Aunque

un postre, especialmente si el

Margaritas, Palomas y Mojitos

las bebidas favoritas de los

me trasladé del Medio Oeste

comensal no quiere terminar

helados, ya tienen los ingredi-

bares están preparadas para

al Sur de Florida, donde la

la comida con algo pesado”,

entes y los perfiles de sabor

volver en 2021, según “Do The

diferencia de clima es notable,

dice Hinojosa. “Un ponche

para crear cócteles calientes

Hustle”, un informe sobre las

hay algo especial y evoca-

caliente de melocotón y jen-

atractivos.

tendencias en alimentación,

dor en una taza caliente de

gibre también combina muy

bebidas y hostelería para

algo maravilloso en un patio

bien con postres familiares

de la invención de bebidas de

2021 de af&co y Carbonate.

fresco”.

como el flan. En primavera o

café caliente, según Nardelli,

verano, las hermosas especias

que dice que los cantine-

Las versiones calientes de

Este informe, que afirma que

El maestro de ceremonias

“En un restaurante

Y sus opciones van más allá

clásicos como el Hot Toddy, el

Manny Hinojosa, embajador

de la bebida, junto con una

ros pueden utilizar bebidas

ron caliente con mantequilla

global de la marca Tequila

fruta de temporada, pueden

mexicanas tradicionales

y el café irlandés sobrevivirán

Cazadores y Tequila Corzo,

quitar el frío de una noche de

sin alcohol como punto de

a las fiestas, también predice

también cree que añadir

primavera, o incluso refres-

partida. El colega de Nardelli,

que surgirán nuevos cócteles

ingredientes y sabores de

carla en verano”.

Juan Martínez, por ejemplo,

creativos que incorporarán té

temporada puede hacer que

caliente, vino caliente, sidra

los clientes redescubran los

Toddy y el Hot Chai Spice son

—un atole espeso y caliente a

y café.

cócteles calientes en cual-

ejemplos de otros cócteles cali-

base de chocolate hecho con

quier época del año.

entes que ha creado Hinojosa.

masa de harina, piloncillo,

Y su popularidad no de-

El Hot Apple & Orange

ha mejorado el champurrado

penderá del tiempo, dicen los profesionales del sector. “Como la gente va a cenar al aire libre durante todo el año en un futuro indefinido, creo que los cócteles calientes serán bienvenidos junto con los calentadores y las lámparas de calor”, dice el cantinero y embajador de la marca Licor

El fuego está encendido

LOS CÓCTELES CALIENTES DISPARAN LAS VENTAS EN LOS BARES

43, Mike Nardelli. “Después de un largo día en la playa surfeando o haciendo surf a remo en cualquier época del año, una de mis cosas favoritas es ir a un bar local y tomar un ponche caliente antes de volver a casa para entrar en calor”, añade. “Aunque el tiempo fresco es el mejor argumento de venta para una bebida caliente, si la estación no encaja

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

en el bar

Miller, de la Bodega Taqueria y Tequila, dice que algunas ginebras y whiskies más suaves también son buenos telones de fondo para los productos botánicos con toques de cítricos. También le gustan los rones mexicanos como base, ya que abren “una ventana de sabores curiosos con los que experiHot Chai Spice

COURTESY PERFECT PUREE

Hot Apple & Orange Toddy COURTESY PERFECT PUREE

Agave Hot Toddy de Madre Oaxacan Restaurant & Mezcaleria

mentar, [así como] las notas saladas de otras botellas”. El café caliente también

agua o leche— con Licor 43.

más comunes en México,

ELECCIONES ESPIRITUOSAS

combina bien con el mezcal, se-

Otro ejemplo que Nardelli ha

como los tejocotes (manzanas

Iván Vásquez, propietario de

ñala Vásquez, que dice que los

visto aparecer en los restau-

de cangrejo) y las vainas de

Madre Oaxacan Restaurant

miembros del personal a veces

rantes de Los Ángeles es el

tamarindo”.

& Mezcaleria de Los Ángeles,

sugieren un café caliente con

aprovecha la oportunidad de

un trago de mezcal, tal y como

quintão, un brebaje tradicional

Además del ponche de Té

brasileño hecho con cachaça y

al Ron, Taco Cabana también

elaborar cócteles calientes que

se sirve en Oaxaca. “A los cli-

sidra especiada.

ofrece Café de Olla, ambos

utilizan bebidas alcohólicas

entes a los que no les gusta el

“arraigados en las tradiciones

populares de forma creativa.

mezcal, podemos ofrecerles el

frutas caliente que se sirve

mexicanas”, dice Remolina.

Por ejemplo, el mezcal, uno de

café oaxaqueño con un chupito

durante las fiestas en México—

“Encontrará el Café de Olla,

los favoritos de los clientes:

de tequila o whisky añadido e

es otro ejemplo. El chef Sergio

hecho tradicionalmente en una

Vásquez lo utiliza en su Agave

iniciar una conversación sobre

Remolina, vicepresidente

olla de barro endulzada con pi-

Hot Toddy, un cóctel que cree

los ingredientes de los cócteles

culinario de Taco Cabana en

loncillo que se sirve en México

que se pondrá de moda “por

terminados”, añade.

Dallas, dice que los recuerdos

durante todo el año. Ha llegado

todo lo que lo hace diferente

de su infancia cuando bebía

a Texas, donde se sirve durante

de otras bebidas de mezcal que

ALTERNATIVAS A LA CREMA

ponche le inspiraron para

los meses de invierno”.

se sirven ahora”.

Muchos cócteles calientes —

El ponche—un ponche de

“El Café de Olla también fun-

crear una versión de cóctel

Este cóctel decididamente

especialmente las creaciones a

para Taco Cabana. La versión

ciona muy bien por las mañanas”,

“diferente” se elabora con un

base de café— dependen de los

de Remolina comienza con una

añade la chef Chelsea Lietz, chef

mezcal destilado tres veces, té

productos lácteos para obtener

base de té negro para equili-

corporativa de Taco Cabana, que

que Vásquez importa de Oaxaca,

suavidad y sabor. Pero el uso

brar la dulzura que proviene

dice que es importante tenerlo en

además de canela, miel y una

de ingredientes lácteos puede

de la fruta en el cóctel.

cuenta ya que este año la gente

rodaja de limón. “La forma de

suponer un reto: no son es-

“Queríamos crear una

pasa más tiempo en casa y pide

hacer el mezcal no es demasiado

tables y a menudo aportan un

versión del ponche que no

el brunch para llevar. Además de

ahumada [por lo que] permite

aspecto pesado que a muchos

se limitara a hablar de las

ofrecer “el aspecto reconfortante

que los sabores naturales del té

clientes ya no les gusta.

festividades de la temporada

del calor”, Lietz señala que añadir

brillen”, explica Vásquez. “Tam-

navideña, sino también de las

ingredientes como fruta fresca

bién es una forma estupenda

caliente con café de Oaxaca y

cosas que realmente son de

y especias como lo hace Taco

de que los clientes a los que

nuestra nata montada casera”,

temporada en México durante

Cabana supone que los cócteles

les gusta el mezcal lo disfruten

dice Vásquez. “Aunque el

los meses de invierno”, explica

calientes sean “una nueva expe-

caliente, y de una forma que

resultado final era estupendo,

Remolina. “Nuestra receta in-

riencia para muchos de nuestros

no han probado antes”.

requería demasiado trabajo

cluye guayaba, canela, cáscara

clientes que no crecieron con las

de naranja, así como frutas

tradiciones mexicanas”.

36 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Además de que el mezcal combina bien con el té,

“Intentamos crear un cóctel

y descubrimos que la nata montada caducaba al cabo de

UNA INTRODUCCIÓN A LA PREPARACIÓN DE CÓCTELES PARA LLEVAR

un día. Debido a la necesidad

ductos de temporada, sobre

de mantener las cosas frescas,

todo en una época en la que las

Ahora que los cócteles para llevar se están volviendo una

nuestras recetas tienen que

bebidas para llevar son lo más

forma de vida para los restaurantes en esta época de covid,

ser más sencillas, con menos

habitual. Nardelli afirma que

es importante saber cómo preparar y envasar mejor todos

azúcar y menos pesadas”.

las bebidas espirituosas con

los ingredientes del cóctel. Aquí, Manny Hinojosa, embajador

Y como señala Miller, las

infusión de té y los ingredien-

global de marca de Tequila Cazadores y Tequila Corzo, explica

bebidas pesadas hechas con

tes a base de té son cada vez

cómo hacer que la experiencia sea segura y sabrosa para los

nata y alcohol suelen ser más

más habituales para conseguir

clientes que piden cócteles calientes para consumir en casa.

difíciles de vender más allá

cócteles con sabores frescos,

“Hay que envasar la bebida para los pedidos para llevar

del postre.

ya sean calientes o fríos.

Una nueva tendencia que se

con dos envases diferentes. Uno contendrá los ingredientes

“Hay mucha versatilidad

con alcohol, como el tequila, el ron o el whisky de base, junto

está gestando en este ámbito

cuando se introducen infusio-

es la de las alternativas lácteas

nes en licores básicos”, explica

con otras bebidas alcohólicas o licores. El otro contendrá las

de origen vegetal.

Nardelli. “Se pueden infusionar

En Sobre Mesa, en Oakland

20 botellas de tequila con

(California), por ejemplo, el

diferentes tés, añadir zumo de

cóctel Cremosa de Cacao com-

lima y tener como resultado 20

bina ron especiado, vino tinto,

cócteles diferentes, incluidos

licor de batata, chocolate,

algunos que saben mejor

malvavisco tostado, jengibre y

calentados”.

crema de coco [no láctea].

partes no alcohólicas de la mezcla”, dice Hinojosa. “Proporcione al cliente instrucciones verbales e impresas, en las que se le advierta que no debe calentar el alcohol. Lo único que debe recalentarse es la mezcla en una taza de café apta para microondas, y solo durante el tiempo indicado en las instrucciones. Después de unos 30 segundos, el cliente puede añadir la porción de licor y disfrutar”.

Según Remolina, los consumidores preocupados

sonancia con el retorno de la

dice Hinojosa. “Cuando los

CONCENTRADOS, INFUSIONES Y ESPECIAS

por la salud se orientan hacia

popularidad de los cócteles ma-

clientes acudan al restau-

combinaciones de especias

tutinos o del brunch, especial-

rante, anímeles a probar estos

Para los bares que quieren con-

más interesantes. “Además

mente cuando el frío invernal

cócteles y explíqueles lo que

ciliar calidad y comodidad en

de la canela, hablamos de

persiste en algunos lugares.

hace que el especial del día

sus ofertas para llevar, Miller

anís estrellado, cardamomo,

Hacer que los nombres de

sea realmente especial. Me

sugiere preparar un concentra-

pimientas y otras especias que

las bebidas sean “impresion-

gusta llamar a los cócteles

do de té para hacer su sirope

nos calientan”, dice.

antes y pegadizos” es otro

calientes ‘tapas de noche’, ya

punto a favor, dice Nardelli.

que pueden poner fin a una

y simplemente introducir agua a menor temperatura en el

CONSEJOS DE MÁRKETING

“Además, dado que el año pas-

comida y a una velada, dentro

cóctel. “Esto garantiza que no

Aunque haya muchos clientes

ado todo el mundo ha pasado

o fuera del local, con una nota

se sobrecaliente la bebida es-

curiosos que busquen algo

mucho tiempo en casa, la idea

acogedora, con una mayor

pirituosa, y resulte demasiado

nuevo, habrá otros que duden

de estar fuera y tomar esa

belleza gracias a la mezcla de

desagradable para el olfato a

en salir de su fría zona de

bebida caliente servida en un

frutas, tés, especias y licores.

causa de los vapores, a la vez

confort. Los que predican las

vaso fresco o con una historia

Además de los cítricos, que

que se incorporan los sabores

maravillas del cóctel caliente

de fondo memorable hará que

siempre son ingredientes im-

del té”, afirma.

tienen algunas estrategias

la gente quiera pedirla”, añade.

prescindibles para los cócteles mexicanos, se puede mantener

Dado que la disponibilidad

eficaces para conseguir que

Presentar los cócteles cali-

y el coste de los ingredien-

esos clientes se aficionen al

entes como “especial del día”

el interés durante todo el año

tes frescos también son una

concepto.

también puede ayudar.

con duraznos, cerezas, bayas

cuestión importante, algunos

Fomentar los cócteles cali-

establecimientos están recur-

entes en los menús del brunch

información sobre los cócteles

estables como el puré, por

riendo a los cordiales, los

es una de las opciones, según

calientes habituales y los

supuesto”.

jarabes ácidos y los purés de

el chef Lietz de Taco Cabana,

especiales en sus menús en

frutas estables para crear pro-

que afirma que están en con-

línea para captar su atención”,

“Asegúrese de tener toda la

y otras frutas, en formas

Vea las recetas de cócteles calientes a partir de la página 53. JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

from Mexico

Karina Precoma shows off a recent batch of pintha at her bakery in Chipilo.

PINTHA:

A taste of Italy in a small MEXICAN PUEBLO

Dominga Zanella puts the finishing touch on the unbaked pintha.

| BY JOSEPH SORRENTINO,

included a recipe for a

pintha—and it’s a bread

writing from Mexico | When

bread made with polenta. In

made nowhere else in

38 families from the

Italy, that bread is known as

Mexico.

Veneto region in northern

pinza, a sweet bread stuffed

“Pinza is Italian. Pintha

Italy arrived in Mexico in

with dried fruit and flavored

is Venetian,” says Antonio

1882, eventually settling

with grappa and fennel

Zarain Garcia, a local resi-

in Chipilo, a small pueblo

and usually made only at

dent who is knowledgeable

about ten miles southwest

Christmas and Easter. When

about the history of Chipilo.

of Puebla, they brought their

the bread arrived in Chipilo,

When the first families

customs, language and, of

the recipe, and the name,

arrived, “they changed

course, their cuisine—which

changed. Here it’s called

the recipe because they did

38 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

(continued on page 40)

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

| el restaurante

from Mexico

not have all the ingredients

are left plain—no toppings

and they were much poorer,”

or added sugar. The bread

he explains “They make a

bakes for about an hour

bread in northern Italy that

under Minutti’s watchful

is much larger than what

eye and she turns the loaves

is made it Chipilo. It is

frequently to ensure even

also sweeter. Here, pintha

baking. The baked loaf weighs a

is considered as a bread

bit under a pound and sells

of poor people.”

for $16 pesos (about 80¢).

VISITING A PINTHA BAKERY

It tastes like cornbread or

A couple of blocks off of

a corn muffin and makes

Chipilo’s main street is a

a tasty breakfast bread or

small bakery that’s the only

a treat to accompany an

one in the pueblo and, really,

afternoon cup of coffee.

all of Mexico, baking pintha.

Start to finish, it takes

“This is a family business,”

about two hours to make

says Karina Precoma, the

the bread and Zuri Merlo,

owner. She and her two

a regular customer, is happy

employees, Isabel Minutti

to buy it at the bakery rather

and Dominga Zanella, typi-

than make it at home. “It is

cally turn out 200 loaves

easier now to have the bread

a day.

[from the bakery],” she says.

Precoma is a bundle of

“The measurements are very

energy, hustling between the

ESPERANZA SEVENELLO STEFANONI and her husband

precise—it takes a long time

batter she’s mixing, the sales

grind corn for the polenta that Karina Precoma uses in

and there is always a secret

counter and the oven while

her Chipilo bakery to make pintha. She says the machine

to making it.”

talking continually on the

(pictured) is over 100 years old. “Three generations have

But Edith Merlo Stefanoni

phone and answering ques-

used it,” says Stefanoni, who’s also certain that the recipe

still makes it at home. “I make

tions about the bread.

for the bread came to Mexico via Veneto.

it because it is a family tradi-

“There are people who

“No one knows for sure because it’s been here for

still make it in their homes,”

so long,” she explains. “The legend is: ‘I learned from my

Precoma says, “and every

nonna who learned from her nonna.’ It has changed now.

family has their own version

We use milk and it was originally made with water. The

of the bread. I learned how to

people who arrived here were poor. They had no ovens,

make pintha from my mother-

they put [polenta] in a big pan and put it over a fire.”

in-law. The recipe was passed

tion,” she says. “It has a homemade flavor, is more economical to make it and nothing compares to the taste of the original [family] recipe.” Although pintha isn’t made, or even available, in the small pueblos surround-

down to me from her and an Precoma spoons the batter

ing Chipilo, it can sometimes

aunt; handed down through

flavor. In most homes, people

generations. I changed it a

only use polenta.” Precoma

into small metal pans while

be found in nearby cities like

little: a little more of this, a

uses a mixture of polenta

Zanella tops the unbaked

Puebla or Cholula. “When it

little less of that. I use milk.

and wheat flour to keep the

loaves with raisins, almond

is,” says Merlo, “it is called

Before, they did not use milk,

cost down but, she says, the

slivers or chocolate chips

pan originál de Chipileño.”

they only used water. The

most important ingredient

and then gives them a slight

milk gives the bread a richer

is the polenta.

dusting of sugar. Some loaves

40 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

See recipe for pintha on page 55.

Desde México

Karina Precoma con pintha en su panadería en Chipilo

PINTHA:

Un sabor de Italia en un pequeño PUEBLO MEXICANO | POR JOSEPH SORRENTINO,

incluía una receta para un

y es un pan que no se hace en

escribiendo desde México | Cu-

pan hecho con polenta. En

ningún otro lugar de México.

ando 38 familias de la región

Italia, ese pan se conoce como

de Véneto en el norte de Italia

pinza, un pan dulce relleno

Pintha is veneciana”, dice

llegaron a México en 1882,

de fruta seca y sazonado con

Antonio Zarain García, un

estableciéndose finalmente en

grappa e hinojo, y que, por

residente local conocedor de

Chipilo, un pequeño pueblo

lo general, solo se prepara

la historia de Chipilo. Cuando

aproximadamente diez millas

en Navidad y Semana Santa.

llegaron las primeras familias,

al suroeste de Puebla, trajeron

Cuando el pan llegó a Chipilo,

“cambiaron la receta porque

sus costumbres, idioma y,

la receta, y el nombre, cam-

no tenían todos los ingre-

por supuesto, su cocina, que

biaron. Aquí se llama pintha,

“La Pinza es italiana. La

(más en la página 43)

Dominga Zanella en la panadería

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

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Desde México

dientes y eran mucho más

azúcar. El pan se hornea por

pobres”, explica. “En el norte

alrededor de una hora bajo la

de Italia hacen un pan que es

mirada vigilante de Minutti,

mucho más grande que el que

que voltea las hogazas con

se hace en Chipilo. También

frecuencia para asegurar un

es más dulce. Aquí, la pintha

horneado uniforme.

se considera un pan de la

La hogaza horneada pesa

gente pobre”.

un poco menos de una libra y se vende por $16 pesos

VISITAR UNA PANADERÍA DE PINTHA

(aproximadamente 80¢). Sabe

A un par de cuadras de la

de maíz, y es un pan muy sa-

calle principal de Chipilo, hay

broso para el desayuno o una

una pequeña panadería que

delicia para acompañar una

es la única en el pueblo y, en

taza de café por la tarde.

como pan de maíz o panqué

De principio a fin, preparar

realidad, en todo México, en la que se hornea pintha. “Este

el pan se tarda unas dos horas,

es un negocio familiar”, dice

y Zuri Merlo, una clienta ha-

Karina Precoma, la propietar-

bitual, se alegra de comprarlo

ia. Ella y sus dos empleadas,

en la panadería en vez de

Isabel Minutti y Dominga

hacerlo en casa. “Es más fácil

Zanella, suelen preparar 200 hogazas al día. Precoma es un manojo de

ahora conseguir el pan [en la

ESPERANZA SEVENELLO STEFANONI y su esposo muelen

panadería]”, dice. “Las medi-

el maíz para la polenta que Karina Precoma usa en su

das son muy precisas; tarda

energía, corriendo entre la

panadería de Chipilo para hacer pintha. Ella dice que la

mucho tiempo y siempre hay

masa que está mezclando, el

máquina (en la foto) tiene más de 100 años. “Tres genera-

un secreto para hacerlo”.

mostrador y el horno mien-

ciones la han usado”, dice Stefanoni, que también está se-

Pero Edith Merlo Stefanoni

tras habla continuamente por

gura de que la receta del pan vino a México desde Véneto.

aún lo hace en casa. “Lo hago

teléfono y responde pregun-

“Nadie sabe a ciencia cierta porque ha estado aquí por

porque es una tradición fa-

mucho tiempo”, explica. “La leyenda es: ‘Aprendí de mi non-

miliar”, dice. “Tiene un sabor

“Hay personas que aún lo

na, que aprendió de su nonna’. Ahora ha cambiado. Usamos

casero, es más económico de

preparan en sus casas”, dice

leche y originalmente se hacía con agua. La gente que llegó

preparar y nada se compara

Precoma, “y cada familia tiene

aquí era pobre. No tenían hornos, ponían [la polenta] en

con el sabor de la receta origi-

su propia versión del pan. Yo

una sartén grande y la ponían al fuego”.

nal [de la familia]”.

tas sobre el pan.

Aunque no se hace pintha,

aprendí cómo preparar pintha

o está siquiera disponible, en

de mi suegra. Ella y una tía me enseñaron la receta;

En la mayoría de los hogares,

con una cuchara en pequeñas

los pequeños pueblos alrede-

que ha sido transmitida de

las personas usan únicamente

cacerolas de metal, mientras

dor de Chipilo, a veces puede

generación en generación.

polenta”. Precoma utiliza una

Zanella cubre las hogazas sin

encontrarse en ciudades cer-

Yo la cambié un poco: un

mezcla de polenta y harina

hornear con pasas, astillas de

canas como Puebla o Cholula.

poco más de esto, un poco

de trigo para mantener bajo

almendra o chispas de choco-

“Cuando se encuentra”, dice

menos de aquello. Uso leche.

el costo, pero, dice ella, el

late y luego les da una ligera

Merlo, “se llama pan original

Antes, ellas no usaban leche,

ingrediente más importante

espolvoreada de azúcar. Al-

de Chipileño”.

únicamente agua. La leche le

es la polenta.

gunas hogazas se dejan solas,

da al pan un sabor más rico.

Precoma vierte la masa

sin aderezos y sin añadirles

Vea la receta de la pintha en la página 55.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

chain report

2021 MEXICAN MULTI-UNIT REPORT:

COVID Takes a Toll, but MANY MULTI-UNITS THRIVE as part of their store design,

ABOUT OUR DATA: The information that allows us to create the Top 50 Mexican Multi-Units list comes from several sources. It starts with data from restaurantdata.com, which compiles multi-unit information year-round. In many cases, we further refine the data by visiting the multi-units’ websites, reviewing their press or investors’ material, and talking with company representatives. The numbers are not 100 percent accurate—chains open and close locations constantly—but we believe they are the most accurate available.

which allowed them to serve clients on-premise even when dining rooms were shut down. Bubbakoo’s Burritos and Fuzzy’s Taco Shop are two of those Mexican multi-units that thrived during the past year.

BUBBAKOO’S: Continuing to Grow Bubbakoo’s Burritos leapt from 42nd place in the 2020

| BY ED AVIS | COVID has

they were easily serving

Top 50 list to 34th in this year’s

dominated the headlines

customers during even the

list. The New Jersey-based

across the restaurant indus-

worst days of the pandemic.

chain added 15 locations in

try over the past year. The

And a majority of them—

2020, a remarkable feat given

crisis hit many multi-unit

34 out of 50—have patios

the conditions.

Mexican restaurants hard; but for many of the 50 largest Mexican multi-units, the damage was less than for many smaller operators. In fact, 15 of the top 50 added units in 2020, by our counts. Why? The fact that many of them are quick service or fast casual restaurants that were already set up to offer to-go and delivery service is one obvious answer. Seventeen of the top 50 have drivethroughs at most or all of their locations, which means

44 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

“Initially, we paused all

municate with our guests on

development strategies and

a daily basis, whether it was

focused on our employees’

safety standards, promo-

safety, customers’ safety and

tions, or updates, we were

our franchise partners get-

able to speak to our custom-

ting the PPP monies in their

ers directly.”

hands to maximize liquidity

The new year has started

as the whole world was try-

well for the company. Three

ing to figure out what would

new locations debuted in

be next,” says Chris Ives, the

January, and 30 more are set

company’s vice president

to open before the end of the

of finance. “Once business

year. The goal is to build at

normalized mid-summer, we

least 80 more units in the next

re-engaged on the develop-

three years, Ives says. That

ment side and we have been

would bring store count to

fortunate enough to grow

about 130 locations, which

internally with our current

would launch them into the top

partners wanting more, as

20 largest Mexican multi-units.

well as prospects in new mar-

“Our partners and employ-

kets looking to diversify. We

ees continue to drive our

closed the year with a record

business with their passion for

year for us on sales comps

the brand, as well as executing

greater than 30 percent.”

on our operational excellence,

Bubbakoo’s, known for its customized burrito offerings,

which is what really gets us excited,” Ives says.

The list of steps Fuzzy’s took to get revenue flowing is

currently has 47 locations,

FUZZY’S TACO SHOP: Grateful for Patios

long: The company improved

eastern states. The restaurant had a strong off-premise

When COVID crashed the res-

launched curbside pick-

program pre-COVID, and

taurant world in March, the

up, and greatly expanded

overhauled its digital ordering

leaders of Fuzzy’s Taco Shop

relationships with third-

platforms to make it easier

took decisive action.

party delivery providers.

most in New Jersey and other

for the burrito chain’s fans to customize orders online.

“The first week of the

its online ordering platform,

Prior to COVID, only about 40

pandemic we made two goals

percent of locations offered

for our team: One, we weren’t

delivery; now 80 percent use

mained consistent pre- [and]

going to panic and we were

DoorDash and 40 percent

“Overall, operations re-

“WE CLOSED THE YEAR WITH A RECORD YEAR FOR US ON SALES COMPS GREATER THAN 30 PERCENT.” –CHRIS IVES, vice president of finance, Bubbakoo’s

post-COVID. We were already

going to control our own des-

use UberEats. It’s no surprise

doing delivery, order ahead

tiny; and two, we would re-

then that off-premise sales

and third-party marketplace,

lease one or two programs a

jumped from 22 percent in

but we shifted our focus to

week until our dining rooms

2019 to 82 percent in 2020.

executing on the delivery/

were full again,” says Jessica

take-out part of the busi-

Wescott, the company’s chief

the pandemic took its toll.

ness,” Ives says. “We used

operating officer and chief

Wescott says the company

our loyalty program to com-

financial officer.

saw significant revenue

Still, in the early months,

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

chain report

el Restaurante

TOP 50 MEXICAN CHAINS 2021 Rank

2020 Rank

Restaurant

Units

2021 Rank

2020 Rank

Restaurant

Units

TACO BELL

7437

TACO MAKER

CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL

2616

PANCHERO’S MEXICAN GRILL

QDOBA MEXICAN EATS

744

ROBERTO’S TACO SHOP

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL

647

FREEBIRD’S WORLD BURRITO

DEL TACO

580

FILIBERTO’S MEXICAN FOOD

EL POLLO LOCO

480

CHRONIC TACOS

TACO TIME

400

BARBERITOS

TACO JOHN’S

386

WAHOO’S FISH TACO

TACO CABANA

166

34 (tie)

42 (tie)

BUBBAKOOS BURRITOS

10 (tie)

BAJA FRESH MEXICAN GRILL

158

34 (tie)

POLLO REGIO

10 (tie)

ON THE BORDER MEXICAN GRILL & CANTINA

158

JIMBOY’S TACOS

RUBIO’S COASTAL GRILL

157

CALIFORNIA TORTILLA

13 (tie)

FUZZY’S TACO SHOP

140

38 (tie)

PLAZA AZTECA MEXICAN RESTAURANTS

13 (tie)

TACO BUENO

140

38 (tie)

UNCLE JULIO’S MEXICAN FROM SCRATCH

TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO COMPANY

131

40 (tie)

50 (tie)

EL NOPAL

18 (tie)

CAFE RIO

130

40 (tie)

PEPE’S MEXICAN RESTAURANTS

TACO DEL MAR

101

42 (tie)

ABUELO’S MEXICAN FOOD

18 (tie)

COSTA VIDA FRESH MEXICAN GRILL

42 (tie)

45 (tie)

EL TORITO AUTENTICO

CHUY’S

42 (tie)

50 (tie)

WILLY’S MEXICANA GRILL

TACO MAYO

42 (tie)

RUSTY TACO

TACO CASA TEXAS

46 (tie)

SANTIAGO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT

25 (tie)

TORCHY’S TACOS

46 (tie)

TACO PALENQUE

SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA

48 (tie)

AMIGOS KINGS CLASSIC

25 (tie)

ALBERTO’S MEXICAN FOOD

48 (tie)

LUPE TORTILLA

HOT HEAD BURRITOS

48 (tie)

45 (tie)

TACO MAC

ALCOHOL SERVICE

SERVES BREAKFAST

HAS A DRIVE-THRU

PRIMARY DISTRIBUTOR

(Among Top 50 Multi-Units):

None = 38%

Yes = 30%

Full Bar = 22% No = 70% Beer/Wine Only = 40%

46 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Yes = 34% No = 66%

• Sysco............. 28% • US Foods........ 22% • McLane/MBM.... 6% • Reinhart.......... 4% • Gordon............ 4% • Other............. 36%

declines at first. But, like many

That large swath of geography

Mexican restaurants, Fuzzy’s

means its stores—136 of which

got a huge boost from Cinco

are franchise locations—re-

one in Minneapolis in March,”

de Mayo.

covered at different paces.

Wescott says. “We’re looking

“Cinco de Mayo was a huge

“For example, in the South-

to favorites. “We’re opening the first

at opening four total this year,

turnaround for us,” Wescott

east we’ve recovered more

and we hope to get to about

says. “We got killed in the

quickly than in the Midwest,”

40 percent of our openings be-

kitchens, but in the good way.”

Wescott says. “In the Texas

ing taquerias. We expect them

market, we’re actually up so

to be more heavily to-go, but

up, the fact that all Fuzzy’s

far in 2021 over last year and

it’s still going to be the great

locations have patios proved

flat compared to 2019, and

experience Fuzzy’s offers.”

a great advantage.

that’s with Texas still at 50 to

As the weather warmed

Optimism among Fuzzy’s

OTHER MUTLI-UNITS: Redesigned Formats on Tap

to coming to our patios and

leadership is strong enough

Fuzzy’s isn’t the only member

enjoying margaritas,” Wescott

that the company is trying

of the el Restaurante Top 50

says. “And with everyone

out a new concept this year.

list to try something new. At

being home so much more,

Fuzzy’s Taco Shop Taqueria

least two other big multi-units

we started seeing the Thurs-

will be 1,500 to 2,000 square

recently announced new store

day happy hour bleed into

feet, about half the size of a

designs.

Wednesday, and eventually

normal Fuzzy’s, which will

into Taco Tuesday.”

“We already had a strong customer base that was used

75 percent capacity.”

“IN THE TEXAS MARKET, WE’RE ACTUALLY UP SO FAR IN 2021 OVER LAST YEAR AND FLAT COMPARED TO 2019, AND THAT’S WITH TEXAS STILL AT 50 TO 75 PERCENT CAPACITY.” –JESSICA WESCOTT, chief operating officer and chief financial officer, Fuzzy’s

El Pollo Loco, which has 480

allow the company to take ad-

units, announced in December

Fuzzy’s has 140 locations

vantage of smaller real estate.

that the company is launching

spread in a giant triangle from

The recipes will be the same,

two new designs. One nixes the

Texas to Minnesota to Florida.

but the menu will be limited

dining room altogether, instead JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

chain report

“THE OPERATIONAL ENHANCEMENTS IN THE KITCHEN AS WELL AS IN THE FRONT OF THE HOUSE STRENGTHEN OUR FOUR-WALL ECONOMICS.” –CHAD GRETZEMA, chief operating officer, Del Taco

serving customers with a

“To compete in a COVID

and an open kitchen format

take-out window, a dual drive-

world, we knew we needed to

help customers see the “Fresh

through, dedicated curbside

create a unique concept that

as Del” concept. The company

pick-up parking spaces, and

is anchored in technology, ac-

is offering various buildout

patio seating. The other design

cessibility, and modern design

options to franchisees ranging

is similar but includes

elements infusing our brand

from 1,200 to 2,400 square feet.

a small dining room that opens

history to make it easier

up to an expansive patio.

and more rewarding to be a

on optimizing kitchen ef-

“We put a major emphasis

customer,” Brian Carmichall, El

ficiency. It is the production

an enhanced digital experi-

Pollo Loco’s chief development

engine of our brand, so each

ence, including cubbies for

officer, said in a press release.

new restaurant size scales

mobile to-go orders, digital

Del Taco announced its

around the kitchen,” said Del

menu boards in the drive-

new Fresh Flex store design

Taco Chief Operating Officer

throughs, and GPS-enabled

in January. It includes third-

Chad Gretzema in a press

curbside pick-up. Murals,

party delivery pick-up stations,

statement. “The operational

imagery and city maps on the

double drive-through lanes

enhancements in the kitchen

exterior and interior walls

and dedicated parking lots for

as well as in the front of the

will honor the brand’s Los

pick-up orders. On the inside,

house strengthen our four-

Angeles roots.

built-in transparent coolers

wall economics.”

Both new designs feature

48 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

marketplace/el mercado

Steve’s Frozen Chillers. For more than 20 years, Steve’s has been supplying Mexican and Spanish restaurants with shelf-stable Frozen and On The Rocks Drink Mixes (the Margarita, Mango and Strawberry are the company’s most popular). Many restaurants have reported an increase in the number of customers re-ordering Margaritas since they switched to Steve’s! All mixes guaranteed fresh for one year. For a free sample, call 800-572-2252 or email orders@stevesfrozenchillers.com

Steve’s Frozen Chillers. Durante más de 20 años, Steve’s se ha dedicado a suministrar a los restaurantes mexicanos y españoles, mezclas estables de bebidas congeladas y a base de hielo (la Margarita, el Mango y la Fresa son las más populares de la empresa). Desde que se cambiaron a Steve’s, muchos restaurantes han informado de un aumento en el número de clientes que vuelven a pedir Margaritas. Se garantiza la frescura de todas las mezclas durante un año. Si desea una muestra gratuita, llame al 800-572-2252 o envíe un correo electrónico a orders@stevesfrozenchillers.com

BE&SCO’s New Tortilla & Flatbread Machine. The revolutionary design of the new 12M-18 Wedge Press offers the ability to transform from a manual to automatic press, without the need to invest in new equipment. Complete with patented non-stick plates and industry leading auto-eject technology, making it one of the safest presses on the market. Watch the video at https:// bit.ly/39EUfCS or visit https://www.bescomfg.com/ for more information. La nueva máquina para elaborar tortillas y panes planos de BE&SCO. El innovador diseño de la nueva prensa de cuña 12M-18, brinda la posibilidad de pasar de ser una prensa manual a una automática, sin necesidad de invertir en nuevos equipos. Está equipada con placas antiadherentes patentadas y tecnología de expulsión automática líder en la industria, convirtiéndola en una de las prensas más seguras del mercado. Vea el vídeo en https://bit. ly/39EUfCS o visite https:// www.bescomfg.com/ para obtener más información.

50 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

Primera’s Label Printer and Applicators. If you’re making and labeling food for your restaurant, or to sell off-site, the LX600 Color Label Printer and AP360 and AP362 Label Applicators offer a quick, low cost-per-label solution. Restaurants can print and apply high-quality, full-color labels for specialty foods including salsas, hot sauces, dressings, spices, juices, bottled and canned cocktails, beers, wines, prepared foods, and much more. 763-475-6676; primera.com

Impresora de etiquetas y aplicadores de la marca Primera. Si está preparando y etiquetando alimentos para su restaurante, o para vender fuera de él, la impresora de etiquetas a color LX600 y los aplicadores para etiquetas AP360 y AP362 ofrecen una solución rápida y de bajo costo por etiqueta. De esta forma podrán imprimir y aplicar etiquetas de alta calidad a todo color, para alimentos especiales tales como salsas, salsas picantes, aderezos, especias, zumos, cócteles embotellados y enlatados, cervezas, vinos, alimentos preparados y mucho más. 763-475-6676; primera.com

InHarvest Aztec Blend. Ancient amaranth grains combined with InHarvest’s exclusive Colusari Red Rice, whole grain brown rice and multi-colored peas make Aztec Blend an ideal side dish for Mexican restaurant menus. The blend also can be used to make meatless burgers, salads and other Mexican dishes. It’s gluten-free and kosher, too. 800-346-7032; inharvestfoodservice.com.

Aztec Blend de InHarvest. La combinación de granos de amaranto antiguos, el exclusivo arroz rojo Colusari de InHarvest, el arroz integral de grano entero y los guisantes multicolores hacen de Aztec Blend una guarnición perfecta para los menús en los restaurantes mexicanos. Esta mezcla también puede utilizarse para hacer hamburguesas sin carne, ensaladas y otros platos típicos mexicanos. Además de no contener gluten, es kosher. 800-346-7032; inharvestfoodservice.com

Optimist Botanicals. Created with a master distiller in Downtown LA, these “spirits” are designed to be mixed with sparkling water or a good tonic, or used as a non-alcoholic ingredient in cocktails. Because they contain no alcohol, they’re ideal for customers embracing the “sober curious” movement. Available in 3 flavors: Bright (drinks like a lemony vodka); Fresh (drinks like a botanical gin); and Smokey (drinks like a smotth tequila). Available wholesale for bars and restaurants. optimistdrinks.com Optimist Botanicals. Creadas por un maestro destilador en el centro de Los Ángeles, estas “bebidas espirituosas” están diseñadas para mezclarlas con agua carbonatada o con una buena tónica, o para utilizarlas como ingrediente no alcohólico en cócteles. Al no contener alcohol, son ideales para los clientes que adoptan el movimiento “sober curious”. Disponible en 3 presentaciones: Bright (con sabor a vodka con limón); Fresh (con sabor a ginebra botánica); y Smokey (con sabor a tequila suave). Disponible al por mayor para bares y restaurantes. optimistdrinks.com

All Souls Tortilleria Corn Products. Tortillas, masa, hominy, and chips made from scratch every week in a bakery in the Old North End of Burlington, Vermont are this tortilleria’s specialty— and its Hearty Heirloom Corn Tortillas recently were named a winner in the 2021 Good Food Awards! The only ingredients in the company’s tortillas are corn, water and lime. All items available for wholesale, retail, and foodservice accounts throughout the Northeastern US. 802-373-7212; allsoulsvt.com

Productos de maíz de la Tortillería All Souls. Tortillas, masa, maíz y patatas fritas preparadas de manera artesanal cada semana en una panadería en el Old North End de Burlington, Vermont, son la especialidad de esta empresa tortillera, ¡y sus tortillas de maíz tradicionales fueron nombradas recientemente ganadoras en los premios Good Food 2021! Los únicos ingredientes de las tortillas de la empresa son maíz, agua y cal. Todos estos productos están disponibles para la venta al por mayor, al por menor y a los servicios de alimentación en todo el noreste de Estados Unidos. 802-373-7212; allsoulsvt.com

Before the Butcher Plant-based Meats. Plant-based dining is heating up at restaurants…and Before the Butcher is answering the call with its family of plant-based burgers, grounds, chunks and shreds. The uncooked Uncut Chorizo and fully cooked Uncut Taco Crumble are perfect for Mexican/Latin restaurants looking to add plant-based items to their menus. They’re 100 percent plant-based, vegan and gluten-free. btbfoods.com

Carnes de origen vegetal Before the Butcher. Las comidas de origen vegetal están revolucionando a los restaurantes... y Before the Butcher está atendiendo a este llamado con su familia de hamburguesas, bases, trozos y tiras de carne de origen vegetal. El Uncut Chorizo y el Uncut Taco Crumble totalmente cocidos son perfectos para los restaurantes mexicanos/latinos que buscan añadir elementos a base de plantas a sus menús. Son 100% vegetales, veganos y sin gluten. btbfoods.com

Culinary Software Service’s ChefTec Software. Want to save money on food costs? ChefTec offers inventory control, purchasing and ordering, recipe and menu costing, and nutritional analysis that can help. The software even comes with a money-back guarantee. Free bonus ingredient pack for Mexican restaurants also included. 800-447-1466; cheftec.com Software ChefTec de Culinary Software Service. ¿Desea ahorrar dinero en los costos de los alimentos? ChefTec le ofrece control de inventario, compras y pedidos, cálculo de costos de recetas y menús, y análisis nutricional que pueden ayudarle. Este software tiene además una garantía de devolución del dinero. Incluye un paquete gratuito de ingredientes para restaurantes mexicanos. 800-447-1466; cheftec.com JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

resource guide

52 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

recipes

Cover Recipe

Smoky Sweet Potato and Lentil Tortilla Soup (Gluten-free and vegan) Recipe and photo by Alanna Taylor-Tobin (bojongourmet.com) Makes 6 to 8 servings

The Soup: 1 T. sunflower oil (or other neutral oil) 1 medium onion, peeled and diced 2 large garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 2 t. toasted cumin powder 1 t. smoked paprika ½ t. fine sea salt (more or less depending on saltiness of vegetable stock) 3 T. tomato paste 2 medium carrots, scrubbed and diced 2 medium-sized jewel or garnet sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into a large dice 1 c. French green lentils, rinsed 4 c. vegetable stock 4 c. water 1 T. chipotle puree* 14 oz. canned diced tomatoes The Garnish: 4-6 (6-in.) corn tortillas, halved and cut into strips 2-4 T. sunflower oil Large handful cilantro leaves, chopped 4 oz. cotija or queso fresco, crumbled 1-2 limes, cut into wedges Avocado chunks (optional) Sour cream (optional) In a large, heavy soup pot, warm the oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the onion, and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, cumin, paprika, and salt, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Work in the tomato paste, then add the carrots, sweet potatoes, lentils,

Sign up for el Restaurante’s Recipe of the weekemail! EMAIL Kathy Furore, kfurore@restmex.com, with ‘Recipe’ In the subject line

stock, water, chipotle, and tomatoes. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, partially covered, until the lentils and sweet potatoes are tender but still holding a shape, 30 to 40 minutes. Taste, adding more salt or chipotle if you like.

JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

| el restaurante

recipes

To make the tortilla strips, heat a thin layer

The Guajillo Pork:

Hot water

of oil in a wide, heavy skillet over mediumhigh heat. When the oil shimmers, add

2 ½ lbs. pork shoulder, chopped into 1 ½ inch cubes

2 lemon wheels and 1 cinnamon stick for garnish

enough tortilla strips to fit in a single layer,

20 dried guajillo peppers, stems removed

and cook, stirring and tossing occasion-

Add the first three ingredients to an Irish

6 cloves garlic, diced

coffee mug. Top with hot water, stir to

½ t. ground black pepper

combine, and let steep for five minutes.

½ t. Piment d’Espelette pepper

Remove the tea bag and garnish with

ally, until golden and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and let drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining tortilla strips and oil.

½ t. ground cumin

Serve bowls of soup topped with a good

¼ t. ground clove

squeeze of lime, a nest of tortilla strips, and

½ t. Mexican oregano

a bit of cilantro and cotija (and avocado

½ t. ground coriander

and sour cream, optional). The soup keeps

1 T. salt

well, refrigerated, for up to 3 days. *You can add more chipotle puree, or use ½ to 2 chipotles in adobo, seeded and chopped (taste before adding as they can be hot)

Elotero Pizza

2 ½ c. water Bring water and guajillo peppers to a boil. Turn off heat and let peppers steep for 15 minutes. Put water, peppers, and remain-

lemon wheels and a cinnamon stick.

Champurrado de Tito’s Recipe courtesy of Tito’s Handmade Vodka

2 oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka 3 c. water 2 c. milk 3 oz. piloncillo, chopped ¼ c. masa flour

ing ingredients other than the pork into a

½ disk Mexican chocolate, chopped

blender and blend until very smooth. Using

2 cinnamon sticks

Recipe by Lars Smith, State of Mind Pizza, Palo Alto, California; Cal-Mex Category Winner – 2020 Real California Pizza Contest

a fine strainer, strain mixture into a large

1 anise star

Makes 1 pizza

45 minutes to 1 hour or until meat is tender,

13 oz. prepared pizza dough at 65% hydration 5 oz. Real California Oaxaca cheese 6 oz. guajillo braised pork shoulder (instructions below) 3 oz. sliced jalapeño peppers 6 oz. Corn Requesón (recipe below) 2 ½ oz. Real California Cotija cheese

saucepan and boil for five minutes. Add pork and continue to simmer uncovered for adding water as necessary to keep pork barely covered. Let pork cool with sauce. The Pizza:

are dissolved. Pour mixture into mug

peppers evenly over pizza. Spoon Corn Re-

with the Tito’s vodka.

quesón into a pastry bag fitted with a star

6 minutes. Remove from oven and crumble

¼ c. Real California heavy cream Put all ingredients into a food processor and process until smooth.

Cotija cheese evenly over pizza, followed by the micro cilantro. Pour lime juice into

Peach & Ginger Toddy Crafted by Manny Hinojosa, Global Brand Ambassador, Tequila Cazadores

1 ½ oz. Perfect Puree Peach & Ginger

a spray bottle. Lightly mist the top of the

1 oz. Tequila Cazadores Anejo

pizza, including crust, before serving.

½ oz. Disaronno 4 oz. hot water

Agave Hot Toddy

Orange peel

Recipe courtesy of Ivan Vasquez, Madre Oaxacan Restaurant & Mezcaleria

Cinnamon stick

1 oz. mezcal

Garnish with orange peel and cinnamon

1 tea bag of your choice (the house favorite at Madre is chamomile peach)

stick.

1 bar spoon honey

54 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

late, and piloncillo. Heat over medium

stretched dough. Scatter pork and sliced

The Corn Requesón:

2 c. Real California requesón cheese (unsalted)

combine. Once dissolved, add milk, choco-

to simmer until chocolate and piloncillo

deck oven at 570°F for approximately 5 to

2 T. Real California Estero Gold Reserve or Asiago cheese, diced

anise. Slowly add masa flour, stirring to

heat until almost boiling, then reduce

1 oz. lime juice

1 t. salt

for 1 hour. Remove cinnamon and star

pinches of Oaxaca cheese evenly over

tip. Pipe evenly over top of pizza. Bake in a

½ t. Piment d’Espelette pepper

anise. Remove from heat and let steep

Stretch dough to a 14-inch circle. Scatter

2 oz. micro cilantro

2 ½ c. roasted corn kernels

Boil water with cinnamon and the star

In a mug, combine the first four ingredients.

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Hot Apple & Orange Toddy Crafted by Manny Hinojosa, Global Brand Ambassador, Cazadores

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1 oz. Tequila Cazadores Reposado ½ oz. Perfect Puree Blood Orange Puree 1 cup apple cider 5 oz. hot water 2 star anise In a mug combine apple cider, hot water, blood orange puree and mix well, add the rest of the ingredients and serve. Garnish with orange peel.

Espresso 433 Recipe courtesy of Mike Nardelli, Licor 43

1⅓ oz. espresso 1 oz. Licor 43 Original 1 oz. vodka Ice cubes Pour a hot espresso in a cocktail shaker. Add Licor 43 Original, vodka and ice cubes. Shake well & double strain Bartender’s Note: Best served after dinner

Pintha Recipe courtesy of Karina Precoma Makes about 10 1-lb. loaves

3 eggs 14 oz. sugar 1 ½ T. baking powder ½ t. baking soda 16 oz. flour 16 oz. polenta 16 oz. lard or shortening Pinch of salt Vanilla (approximately 2 t., or to taste) 16 to 24 o.z milk or water (or a mixture) Pre-heat oven to 350°F. Beat the eggs with the sugar. Add the baking powder and baking soda, beat. Add the flour and polenta, mix thoroughly. Add the lard or shortening. Add the milk/ water and vanilla. Mix thoroughly. The dough should be between watery and thick. Pour into greased pans; leave plain

To subscribe quickly and easily online, visit www.elrestaurante.com to start your free subscription today. Or fill in all mailing information and answer the questions on the form below. PLEASE REMEMBER TO SIGN THE FORM. Mail it to el Restaurante PO Box 13347, Chicago, IL 60613, Or fax the form to 708-406-1609

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1. My business is: ❏ Restaurant ❏ Caterer ❏ Institutional Foodservice ❏ Restaurant Headquarters ❏ Consultant ❏ Other_________________ 2. Do you serve liquor? ❏ Yes, a full bar ❏ Yes, beer and wine only ❏ No, we don’t serve any liquor 3. Our restaurant is: ❏ Quick Serve/Fast Food ❏ Fast Casual ❏ Sit-Down Family Dining ❏ Fine Dining

or top with raisins, almond slivers, chocolate chips, etc. Bake at 350°F for 40 to 60 minutes. *Amounts converted from metric units

4. Do you make purchasing decisions ? ❏ Yes ❏ No

my favorite recipe

“MASTER ENCHILADA ROLLER” RUSSELL YBARRA

Gringo’s Tex-Mex THE YEAR WAS 1992, AND RUSSELL YBARRA HAD A BIG DECISION

“The Original,” remains the

TO MAKE. He had grown up in the restaurant industry,

most successful of the

washing dishes and learning the ropes at his father’s

Gringo’s Mexican Kitchen

company, El Toro Mexican Restaurants—and he now had

chain (known colloquially

the chance to take over a failing restaurant in Pearland,

as Gringo’s Tex-Mex), which now

Texas, a small town south of Houston. Four different

includes 14 Gringo’s and four Jimmy Changas locations.

concepts had failed on the property, and his friends and

The success, says Ybarra, is due to the philosophy he em-

family were advising against it. But he was having none

braced early on—one that continues to guide the owner and his

of the negativity.

staff today: “To serve the highest quality Tex-Mex at the lowest

“I’ll do it!” he recalls saying, confident his business would succeed. He launched into a remodeling process,

price possible.” It is something he credits the late Juan Martinez (aka “Mr. John”),

doing all he could on what he describes as a non-existent

the executive chef Ybarra’s father hired when he opened his first

budget. And on January 11, 1993, the new Gringo’s Mexi-

El Toro restaurant, with instilling in him.

can Kitchen opened on the site. That location, Gringo’s

“Mr. John’s keen palate, as well as his desire to use only the highest quality ingredients

Gringo’s Carne Guisada Makes enough for 6 to 8 servings 3 ¾ lbs. beef short ribs 3 t. salt

2 c. yellow jumbo onions, diced ½-inch

2 ½ t. garlic powder 1 c. green bell peppers, diced ½-inch 1 ½ t. black pepper 1 c. red bell peppers, diced 1 T. ground cumin ½-inch 1 ½ c. crushed tomatoes ½ T. fresh garlic, chopped

To prep the meat:

available, is something that

Trim excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes. Blend spices and rub meat, ensuring it’s fully covered in the spices. Refrigerate and let it sit for at least 1 hour.

I consider myself extremely

To make the Carne Guisada: Heat a stainless steel pot on high for at least 1 minute. Add seasoned meat and cover for 10 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes. Add crushed tomatoes, mix well and cover. Keep heat on high, bring to a boil and stir occasionally for 5 minutes. Turn heat to low and simmer. Mix well and cover.

fortunate to have witnessed firsthand,” Ybarra wrote in 2019 in his annual Year of Gratitude blog, noting how deeply the chef had impacted his view on the importance of quality and hard work. The chef’s memory lives on at Gringo’s in many

Set a timer for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Stir often until meat is tender.

dishes, including the Carne

Add onions, green bell peppers, red bell peppers and fresh garlic. Mix well, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Continue to stir often. Turn off heat and allow it to cool. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

made with braised short

Serve with guacamole, pico de gallo, beans, rice, and tortillas.

go’s to make a rich, flavorful

Note: For the best flavor, refrigerate for 24 hours. To serve, stir and reheat to desired temperature.

Guisada—a guest favorite ribs simmered in tomatoes, pepper, onions, and a special Mexican blend of spices made exclusively for Gringravy. Here, Ybarra shares the recipe, adapted from the original recipe Chef Martinez created many years ago.

56 el restaurante | JAN/FEB/MAR 2021

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Request a FREE sample and see recipes at www.simplotfoods.com!

Now Serve Delicious Authentic Tacos EVERY DAY!

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el Restaurante JanFebMar 2021

Articles inside

AT THE BAR—Hot Cocktails Fire Up Sales

MARKETPLACE (In English and Spanish

RECIPES

MY FAVORITE RECIPE—Gringo’s Carne Guisada

BETTER BASICS—Dish Up Take-out Friendly Fare

COVER STORY—Soup’s On

FROM THE FIELD—A COVID Update