WEDDING Hook up a right royal cushion
LITTLE & LARGE CROCHET!
Congrats! Favour envelo
cushion,centrepiece, toppers & more
Florabelle C R O C H E T
S H AW L
De s i g n e d by Anna Nikipirowicz
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST VISIT
WWW.WYSPINNERS.COM TEL: (0)1535 664500 · EML: SALES@WYSPINNERS.COM
With a certain royal couple tying the knot soon, we’re well and truly swept up in wedding fever. Place cards? Favour bags? Cake toppers? The best cushion ever? Check, check, check, and OH yeah, look – check. We don’t have our invitation yet, but dontcha think we all deserve a spot on the guest list…?
Find me on page 38 ISSUE SEVENTY
CONTENTS
24CheVron CarDigan Psst Wow ‘em with st ipe thi sea on!
Lace and FavOur P14
ExcIting CroChet IdeAs to InsPire you 14 WEDDING DECORATIONS 24 CHEVRON CARDIGAN 31 FLOWER CARD 38 AMIGURUMI PANDA 43 HEART CUSHION 51 RUDE BOY CAP
56 BABY SET 59 HOOK TO HOOK 62 SLEEVELESS TOP 67 EMBELLISH AN OUTFIT 78 LACY SHAWL 95 HOOK ‘N’ LEARN
rochet wo k hop, p80
win
check out ou Tu n to page 59 and u could de igne challenge – yo win go geou ya n!
43
67
56 baby blisS
78 All aBout OrangE
62 95
new! P69
Good ReaDs
how to...
09 HOOKED 32 EMMA FRIEDLANDER-COLLINS 48 PROFILE: AMANDA PERKINS 69 COLOUR CLASS: ORANGE 76 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE
36 SUBSCRIBE Never miss an issue!
74 YARN REVIEWS Six bright cotton wonders
80 THE WORKSHOP Sleeve styles
87 THE GUIDE Essential step-by-steps
93 CHARTS
CotTon YarNs P74
51
Love actually
Love is in the air this month as, with Harry and Meghan’s big day on 19 May, we have the perfect excuse to get unashamedly romantic. Emma Leith’s royal cushion (p43) is a splendid way to mark the occasion. And if you’re planning a wedding or other special occasion, take inspiration from our cool blue ideas on p14 or send a handmade greeting with this issue’s free gift. We’re also getting ready for warmer weather with plenty of cool knits this issue. We love Matt’s colourful hat (p51); we might even make it essential Simply Crochet attire – squad goal!
Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Art Editor Kimberly Price Technical Assistant Cara Medus Digital Editor Matthew Spiers Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Dave Caudery Group Art Editor Louise Bambridge Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor
AdvErTisInG Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Account Sales Manager Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Alexandra Johnson
MarKeTing & SubScRipTions Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones
CirCuLatIon
ConTrIbuTors Ring out the bells for this month’s brilliant crafters…
Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Juliette Winyard International Account Manager Rebecca Hill
ProDuCtiOn Production Co ordinator Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell
BuyIng Team Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup
LicEnSing Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson
PubLiShiNg
“I AM TOTALLY OBSE SSED WITH CROC HET! ”
“I’M AN ARTIST AND CROCHET IS MY LANGUAGE”
Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau
MATTHEW SPIERS
ELISABETH DAVIS DE HERRAIZ
SubScRipTions
Matthew aka One Man Crochet is a crochet addict and a total colour iend – whatever he designs, it’s sure to feature some eye-popping shades. Check out his rude boy cap on p51.
Elisabeth stumbled upon crochet by accident a decade ago and has never looked back – she says a day without crochet isn’t a full day! She’s designed a beautiful shawl for us on p78.
Call 03330 162 146 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft
Need to get in TouCh? EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplycrochet@buysubscriptions.com 03330 162 146
Next IssUe on Sale TueSday 15 may 2018 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.
“I HAVE A PROPE NSITY TO SEE THING S UPSIDE DOWN”
“I STI LL FIN D CRO CHET GR TO UN WIN D WITH” EAT
ILARIA CALIRI
PAT STRONG
Queen of amigurumi, Ilaria is the blogger behind Airali Design. She loves to draw quirky characters and turn them into cute crocheted toys, like the adorable panda on p38.
Pat loves yarn so much she opened a yarn shop. She believes that simple shapes are the key to success when designing in knitwear. Take a look at her snuggly baby suit on p56.
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Rebecca Armstrong, Kate Bruning, Esme Crick, Lucy Croft, Hannah Cross, Judy Darley, Anne Egan, Emma Friedlander-Collins, Bryony Hitchcock, Catherine Hood, Jenny May Forsyth, Emma Leith, Fran Morgan, Margaret O’Hara from The Crochet Classroom, Becca Parker, Adam Rees, Lynne Rowe, Kate Rowell, Becky Skuse, T B Ramsden
Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered oice of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.
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INTRODUCING
A
NEW
MAL
FROM
#RoyalWeddingMAL #MeghansMomentMAL
Join the Scheepjes Make-A-Long and create a beautiful beaded shawl to celebrate the marriage of HRH Prince Harry to Meghan Markle
Welcome to Meghan’s Moment MAL from Scheepjes, designed by Kirsten Ballering. The pattern we’ll be making together is an elegant shawl worked in Scheepjes Alpaca Rhythm yarn, with glass seed beads of your choice.
“ The pattern for the shawl that we’ll
Join the MAL from April 3rd 2018, via our Facebook group (details below).
be making during the MAL is the one I
When the royal couple marry on May 19th we’ll host a virtual catwalk on our Facebook page, sharing photos of everyone wearing their completed shawls!
designed for my own wedding day. I felt like a million dollars!” Kirsten
Scheepjes Alpaca Rhythm is available in 20 shades, (80% Alpaca, 20% extra fine wool, 25g/200m)
All the information for Meghan’s Moment M-A-L and the FREE PATTERN is available from: https://haakmaarraak.nl/meghans-moment Share your progress with other makers in the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ScheepjesCAL.International
WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM
The lovely world of
RICORUMI
www.rico-design.co.uk
100 % Cotton
Unravel your creativity
Ideas
Inspiration
Accessories
Websites
Events
Stuff
Summer breeze Behold the loveliness that is the Vanaja rucksack, from Rowan’s latest Magazine 63. It’s just perfect for sunny Sundays when you can throw your stylish bag over your shoulder and make a dash to the nearest field for fresh air and country walks. This Lisa Richardson design uses Rowan Creative Linen (50% linen and 50% cotton), along with embroidered details in Rowan Summerlite 4ply (100% cotton). For more details and to see the rest of the Magazine 63 patterns, visit www.knitrowan.com Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 9
INStylecraft IT TO WIN! want W
INDIAN ROSES
J
ane Crowfoot has joined forces with West Yorkshire Spinners to create this stunning Indian Roses blanket, which uses three DK yarns: Bluefaced Leicester, Aire Valley and Bo Peep. Jane has used crochet layering techniques to achieve a gorgeous 3D effect on the flowers. The kit costs £135 from www.wyspinners.com.
Trend alert
We Love... New crochet kits from We Are Knitters alert, hooksters… oh happy day! We are drooling over the whole collection, but top of our wish list is the fabulous Horus Cardigan (bottom left) – so stylish and taking stripes into a whole new territory. We are also loving the Nile Sweater (top left) – perfect for summer evenings – and the casually chic Dyed Cardigan (top right). And, as if that wasn’t enough, as well as these beauties, WAK have also just brought out three new crochet blanket kits, including the rather gorgeous Kukicha Blanket (bottom right). From £30. Head on over to www.weareknitters.co.uk to see the whole range.
10 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
to hear from you! They are running a survey to find out more about what yarn consumers want and the ways they pursue their craft. Everyone who completes the survey will be able to choose a free PDF pattern as a thank you and four lucky respondents will win the yarn to make the pattern they choose. To have your say go here: www. surveymonkey. co.uk/r/XQJJSML.
MYSTERY CAL The excitement is building for TOFT’s second Ed’s Animals Mystery CAL. Order a yarn pack for £39 and from 1-20 May you will get part of a pattern sent to your inbox every day. The CAL makes two animals, one for beginners and one more challenging, and you’ll get enough DK yarn to complete them both. Visit www.toftuk.com for more details.
HOOKED
INSPIRING BOOKS CUTEST CROCHET CREATIONS ALISON NORTH (£15.73, Tuva Publishing)
The clue is in the title with this book from Alison North, as you’ll find heaps of the most adorable characters to make inside, including a fox, bird, dog, sheep, bunny and many more. You can also personalise your cute creations with the little extra designs such as flower crowns and dresses. Sweet!
mini profile
THE CROCHET MAN Lee Griffiths, aka The Crochet Man, told us: “My love of crochet was born from my failure with knitting. I started around three years ago as I needed something to focus my mind as a distraction. I watched countless tutorials on YouTube as I knew no one who worked with yarn. I joined online crochet groups where everyone is so generous with advice, hints and tips, then I absorbed all the information I could get and pretty soon I just fell in love with the craft. Somehow I just understood the language and it wasn’t long before I began making little toys which then became an obsession. “I find animals’ vast differences an endless source of inspiration. When I design my creatures I imagine their personalities and try to convey that in their faces as much as possible. My favourite make so far has to be my alpaca – it was a triumph when I finally captured that aloof expression. “I have a few confessions. I am so in love with this craft I have a crochet-themed tattoo on my hand. Also, although I am from the UK,
CROCHET LACY SHAWLS ROHN STRONG (£17.88, Stackpole Books)
I crochet using US terminology. I had no idea they were different until I purchased an English pattern and thought ‘this makes no sense to me!’. “I began designing my own patterns in January this year. I have so many ideas my head is buzzing. I just wish I had ten pairs of hands and endless hours. I will be at my first ever show along with some of my creations at Wool@J13 in May. Come and say hello!” Find The Crochet Man on Facebook at https://m.facebook.com/Thecrochetman/
Sock designer extraordinaire and author of Step Into Crochet, Rohn Strong, has turned his hook to shawl making in this inspiring book packed with 27 patterns. The projects are divided by skill level so you can start in the beginner section with a basic pi shawl, triangle, stole or poncho and work up to the more complicated patterns.
MINI CROCHET CREATURES LAUREN BERGSTROM (£14.99, GMC)
Quick to hook up and full of personality, these gorgeous little amigurumi animals make great gifts for friends and family – or it’s fun to build up your own collection. You’ll find 30 cute creatures, from a chicken and a squirrel to a sloth and a caterpillar.
SUBS STARS! Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty. This month, the winners (below) will each receive Kat Goldin’s Hook, Stitch & Give book, with the perfect project for every occasion, and worth £14.99! Pattie Jarvis, Birmingham Patricia Caldwell, Oldham Christine Gallacher, High Wycombe Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is inal and no correspondence will be entered into.
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
MODERN MACRAMÉ EMILY KATZ (£17.92, Ten Speed Press)
The queen of macramé, Emily Katz, shows you how to create 33 of her stylish projects, from boho wall hangings and driftwood art to macramé rugs and plant hangers. Each project also comes with lifestyle tips showing how you can use macramé to give the perfect finishing touch to the modern home. We are seriously drooling over the oh-so stylish interiors in this book.
FUN DAY OUT
SUMMER STYLE
S
tylecraft’s latest yarn, Linen Drape, is a lovely mix of 70% linen and 30% viscose, and it’s perfect for your summer makes. It comes in eight sophisticated, muted colours and costs £4.80 per 100g ball. There’s a great pattern collection available for the new yarn, including some fab crochet designs. We love this cool green and white top (9513) – this pattern also includes a design for an elegant matching cardi. Find out more at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk
W Get yourself over to Ragley Hall in Warwickshire from 11-13 May and enjoy some crafting inspiration at The Handmade Fair. Presented by the inimitable Kirstie Allsopp, the fair includes demos and Q&As with some of Britain’s top crafters, workshops, Grand Makes, and of course the opportunity for a little shopping spree… Tickets start at £12. See page54 and www. thehandmadefair. com for more.
YARN SHOW
A woolly weekend! CheCk This out Hey, did you know Aldi have a range of yarn and other craft goodies? Now you can pick up some DK along with your weekly shop. Aldi have created their own five yarns, including an aran, chunky, DK, baby and fancy yarn choices (prices range from £2.99-£3.99). There are also crochet kits, including a super-cute Pug (£3.99). Hurry though, as this special range is only available while stocks last. www.aldi.co.uk 12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Yarnies are in for a treat on 12-13 May as Wool@J13, the show that celebrates anything and everything to do with wool, is back at Penkridge, Staffordshire. Enjoy workshops, talks, a stash swap, an exhibition of wool-crafted hats… even a sock fashion show! Plus, with over 80 stalls there’ll be plenty to spend your pennies on. Tickets are £10 or make a weekend of it for £16. www.wool-j13.uk
WEDDINGBELLS With Prince Harry and Meghan’s big day on 19 May, Scheepjes are celebrating with a special make-along called Meghan’s Moment. Go to www.haakmaarraak.nl. to find a free pattern for a gorgeous beaded shawl, plus information on how much Alpaca Rhythm yarn and beads you will need. You can share your progress and see how everyone else is getting on in the Scheepjes Facebook group, and then watch the royal wedding suitably attired in a beautiful shawl fit for a princess!
HOOKED
5 FAB FINDS We’re keeping it royal Celebrate in style with our right royal wedding round-up.
1
BLOOMING MARVELLOUS Hot on the heels of their new Bo Peep 4ply launch, West Yorkshire Spinners have released a new range of their Signature 4ply: The Florist Collection. There are 13 delicious shades – six variegated and seven solid – all inspired by garden favourites, from the vibrant pink Foxglove to the classic blue Cornlower. £7.20 per 100g. There’s also a Florabelle Shawl pattern available using the new yarn, priced £2.40. Go to www.wyspinners.com for more.
THE CROWN JEWELS The perfect accessory for your own little prince or princess, this beaded crochet baby crown comes in various sizes from 0-3 to 12-18 months. Just don’t go putting it on the cat! Go to Tuttolv on etsy.com
2
TIME TO SHINE Go all-out glamour with this statement crochet necklace which features ceramic and pearl beads. Find it at AyamCraft on etsy. com. Yes please…
out & about
HighlAnd fliNg Get your diaries out hooksters… How do you fancy joining editor Sara, and Kirstie and Louise from Simply Knitting magazine, for a Highland adventure later in the year? We’ve hooked up with Arena Travel to arrange a three-night trip from 18-21 October, including two days at the Loch Ness Knit Fest, a visit to Johnstons of Elgin Woollen Mill, time to explore Inverness, and lots of crochet and natter with fellow yarnies and Sara, Kirstie and Louise. Prices start from £579. Visit www.arenatravel.com
Skills, shows & events MAY14 Beginners Crochet Workshop,£50, Leith Hill Place, Surrey leithhillplace@nationaltrust.org.uk, 01306 711685
MAY19 Crochet Linen and Leather Bag, £52.39,
4
MAY25 Beaded Crochet Workshop, £54.95, with JaneCrowfoot,BlackSheepWools,Warrington www.blacksheepwools.com
Toberbunny, Dublin, www.woollinn.com
JUNE2 Beginner Crochet Workshop,£35, Jenny Wren’s Yarns, Ipswich, Suffolk www.jennywrensyarns.co.uk/classes
3
ROYAL BABY Perfect for a christening, this baby’s shawl and pillowcase set has a hand-crocheted crown edging. Go to PetiteNPrecious on etsy.com
Mercato Metropolitano, London, www.twome.co.uk/workshops
MAY25-27 Woollin, 10 euros,
Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
TOTO-LLY FAB We think the Queen herself would rather like to have one of these cute amigurumi corgis! Head over to www.snacksies.com to find the Toto the Corgi pattern.
ON THE BUTTON Give your latest crochet cardi a regal finishing touch with these fabulous wooden crown buttons. Available from www.myvintage charms.co.uk
5
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 1013
WEDDING IDEAS
Lace and favour Mix rustic hessian with elegant linen for the prettiest handmade wedding ever.
Take This Ring Give the most important moment of the ceremony a traditional feel with a modern twist, with this simple Irish crochet-inspired pattern, adorning a hessian cushion.
at the top TabLe Not only is this loral table runner a clever alternative to traditional centrepieces, but it gives guests more room for their glasses of wine!
WEDDING IDEAS
the ShoWsTopPer RouNd Show the world how much you love your beau with a trio of lacy cake toppers. Go for a simple but elegant cake design with fresh lowers for the perfect base to show of your heart(s). Sweet.
EveRyThiNg in its PlaCe Wedding guests love a memento of the day, so give your place cards a special touch with a crocheted edging, and they’ll be little treasured keepsakes. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 17
WEDDING IDEAS
PocKet PreSent Whether it’s something to eat, drink, read or play with, these smart little hessian envelopes are perfect for presenting your wedding favours. They’re sure to last longer than whatever treat is inside them, too.
ace of Vase Using leftover jam jars and other glass containers is a popular hack for cool weddings, so why not tie them into the theme of the day with a quick bit of crochet decoration? They make great mats, too. 18 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
WEDDING IDEAS
RING PILLOW Make a hessian cushion and adorn it with an Irish crochet-style motif. Wedding rings have never been so spoilt. Designed by Anne Egan. Q Namolio linen yarn (100% linen, 25g/130m), 1 ball of Glacier (018) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Hessian cloth 22x41cm (8½x16in) Q Matching sewing thread Q 70cm (28in) silk ribbon Q Stitch marker Q Toy stuffing
MEASUREMENTS Motif measures 17.5x17.5cm (6¾x6¾in) Finished cushion measures 18x18cm (7x7in)
NOTES The central Flower Motif is made first, then the Leaves and Circles are made and joined in their final rounds before adding the Outer Border. MOTIF FLOWER Ch32, ss to first ch to join into a loop. Round 1 *4dc into loop, ch9, dc into 2nd ch from hook and each of next 6 ch, ss in last ch; repeat from * 11 times more, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 *Ss in each of next 2 dc, skip next dc, working along opposite side of ch-9, dc
in next 4 ch, htr in next 2 ch, tr in next 2 ch, 6tr in ch-1 sp, rotate to work back towards centre tr in next 2 dc, htr in next 2 dc, dc in next 4 dc, skip next dc on ring, repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Block Flower to approx 12cm diameter before completing Motif. LEAF (MAKE 4) Each Leaf is attached between 2 petals of the Flower so they sit at the 4 corners of the Motif. Leave 1 petal unattached between each Leaf. Ch17. Round 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each of next 14 ch, 3dc in last ch (mark centre of these 3 sts), rotate to work along opposite side of ch, dc in next 15 ch, turn. Round 2 Ch1, skip 1st dc, dc in each st to marked st, 3dc in marked st, move marker up to centre of these 3 sts, dc in each dc across to last 3 dc, turn leaving 3 dc unworked. Rounds 3 to 5 Repeat Round 2 three times more. Round 6 Ch1, skip 1st dc, dc in next 8 dc, ss to outer tip of a petal in the Flower motif so Leaf will sit between 2 petals, dc in each st to marked st, 3dc in marked st, dc in next 2 sts, ss to outer tip of next petal in the Flower motif, dc in each dc across to last 3 dc, ss to next dc, fasten off leaving 2 dc unworked.
SMALL RING (MAKE 4) Ch32, ss to first ch to join into a loop. Round 1 30dc into loop, ss to top of any unattached petal, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off.
OUTER BORDER Round 1 of the Outer Border is attached on opposite sides of each Small Ring, then at the five central points of each Leaf (see image). Another chain ring is worked in Round 2, and then the two chain rounds are enclosed by 1 round of dc sts in Round 3. Round 1 With RS of Motif facing, join yarn at side of one of the small rings, *ch9, ss in opposite side of same ring, ch13, working around next Leaf, ss in first point, ch4, ss in next point, ch6, ss in top point, ch6, ss in next point, ch4, ss in last point, ch13, ss in nearest side of next small ring; repeat from * 3 times more. Round 2 Ch35, ss in top point of next leaf, *ch61, ss in top point of next leaf; repeat from * twice more, ch26, ss to first ch to join. Round 3 Incorporating the ch-sps of Rounds 1 and 2 into all dc of this round, *dc in each dc of the Small Ring between the 2 ss, adding in extra dc if required to ensure the ring lays flat, 17dc in next ch-13 sp of Round 1, 4dc in next ch-4 sp of Round 1, 6dc in next ch-6 sp of Round 1, dc in top point of leaf, 6dc in next ch-6 sp, 4dc in next ch-4 sp, 17dc in next ch-13 sp; repeat from * 3 times more, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Weave in all ends, block to size and shape using the image as a guide. Fold the hessian rectangle to make a cushion 18x18cm with a central seam at the back. Press flat with an iron (but don’t sew the seam at this stage), sew the Motif to the front. Sew the back seam, then the sides using matching thread, adding stuffing before closing the final edge. Stitch ribbon into place firmly at centre of cushion ready for your rings.
TABLE RUNNER Set a scene of twisty floral elegance with flowers and foliage trailing along your table for a super pretty, spring centrepiece. By Fran Morgan. Q Namolio linen yarn (100% linen, 25g/130m), 2 balls of Glacier (018) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook 20 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
WEDDING IDEAS
MEASUREMENTS Each Rosette measures approx 8cm (3¼in) Each Small Flower measures approx 5cm (2in) The assembled Table Runner measures approx 125x18cm (49x7in) ROSETTE (MAKE 11) Ch6, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 Ch6 (counts as tr, ch3), *tr into ring, ch3; repeat from * 4 times more, ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join. [6 ch-sps] Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), *(dc, htr, 3tr, htr, dc, ch1) in each ch-3 sp. [6 petals] Round 3 (Ch5, dc in next ch-1 sp) 6 times. Round 4 Ch1, *(dc, htr, 5tr, htr, dc, ch1) in each ch-5 sp. Round 5 (Ch7, dc in next ch-1 sp) 6 times. Round 6 Ch1, *(dc, htr, 7tr, htr, dc, ch1) in each ch-5 sp, fasten off.
Round 2 Ch2, 2htr in same st, (ch3, skip next st, 3htr in next st) 5 times, ch3, skip next st, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [6 ch-sps] Round 3 Ch1, (dc, htr) in first st, 3tr in next st, (htr, dc) in next st, dc in next ch-3 sp, *(dc, htr) in next st, 3tr in next st, (htr, dc) in next st, dc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 4 times more, ss to first dc to join. Do not fasten off.
STEM AND LEAF Row 1 Ch10, ss to dc3tog of Joining Strip, turn. Row 2 Ch1, htr into next 5 ch, ch5, dc in
2nd ch from hook, htr into next ch, 3tr in next ch, ss to next ch, htr in next 5 ch of stem, ss back into Flower, fasten off.
CAKE TOPPERS Top your wedding cake with a trio of lacy keepsake hearts. By Becca Parker. Q Namolio linen yarn (100% linen, 25g/130m), 1 ball of Glacier (018) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Three wooden skewers Q Strong craft glue
JOINING STRIP *Ch19, ss to first Rosette between two outer petals. Row 1 Ch1, dc in each ch across, ss to next Rosette between two outer petals, turn. [19 dc] Row 2 Ch1, dc in next 8 dc, dc3tog, dc in next 8 dc, fasten off. Repeat from *, joining the ch to the Rosette just joined, leaving two petals in between. Add another Rosette on Row 1. Continue until they are all joined. SMALL FLOWER (MAKE 10) Ch6, ss to first ch to form a ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 12dc into ring. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
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WEDDING IDEAS
0.5cm from the outer edge around the place card. Carefully push the needle through each mark. Work a blanket stitch around the edge using the holes. Round 1 With RS facing join yarn to any blanket stitch around edge, ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in each blanket st around, ss in 1st dc to join. Round 2 *Ch3, skip next st, ss in next st; repeat from * around. Fasten off and weave in ends.
FAVOUR BAG
MEASUREMENTS
PICOT DETAIL (ALL HEARTS)
Small Heart measures approx 6.5x7cm (2½x2¾in) Large Heart measures approx 9.5x10cm (3¾x4in)
Final round Join yarn in centre of foundation ring, 3dc in first ch-3 sp, picot in each st around to last ch-3 sp, 3dc in last ch-3 sp, ss to centre of ring. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Guest will love these envelope-style gift bags almost as much as they’ll love what you’ve hidden inside – and they make a wonderful memory of the happy day. By Hannah Cross. Q Namolio linen yarn (100% linen, 25g/130m), 1 ball of Glacier (018) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Hessian cloth 14x20cm (5½x7¾in) Q Tapestry needle Q 1cm glass button
MEASUREMENTS Motif measures 12cm (4¾in) diameter Pouch measures 12x9cm (4¾x3½in)
ABBREVIATIONS Picot Htr, ch2, ss to htr SMALL HEART (MAKE 2) Ch4, ss into 4th ch from hook to form ring. Round 1 Ch3, (2tr, ch2, 3tr, ch2, dtr, ch1, ttr, ch1, dtr, ch2, 3tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1, ss) into centre of ring. Round 2 Ch3, tr in 3rd ch of beg ch-3 of Round 1, 2tr in next 4 sts, htr in next 7 sts, ch1, tr in ttr, ch1, htr in next 7 sts, 2tr in next 4 sts, tr in next ch-1, ch3, ss to centre of ring, fasten off. LARGE HEART Rounds 1-2 Work as for Small Heart. Round 3 Ch3, htr in 3rd ch of beg ch-3 of Round 2, 2htr in each of the next 5 sts, dc in next 12 sts, ch2, dtr in tr, ch2, dc in next 12 sts, 2htr in each of the next 5 sts, htr in 3rd ch of last ch-3 of Round 2, ch3, ss to centre of ring. Round 4 Ch3, tr in the first htr of Round 3, 2tr in each of the next 6 sts, htr in next 18 sts, ch1, tr in dtr, ch1, htr in next 18 sts, 2tr in each of the next 6 sts, tr into last htr of Round 3, ch3, ss to centre of ring. Fasten off. 22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
TO FINISH Block the Motifs and use spray starch to hold their shape. Glue each Heart to the top of a wooden skewer and leave to dry.
PLACE CARD Make sure everyone knows where to sit with Hannah Cross’ lovely place cards. Start with a simple blanket stitch to make a base for the lacy trim. Q Namolio linen yarn (100% linen, 25g/130m), small amounts of Glacier (018) Q A 0.75mm (US 14 steel) hook Q Place cards of your choice Q Ruler Q Pencil Q Sharp needle
MEASUREMENTS The Lace Edging will work around any size or shape of place card. LACE EDGING Prepare the place card by measuring and marking dots with pencil 0.5cm apart and
ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch4, ss to 4th ch from hook POUCH Fold in a 1cm seam along the short edges of the hessian, and sew with yarn. Press in a 1cm seam along the long edges, fold in half and sew the side seams. MOTIF Ch2. Round 1 12tr in 2nd ch from hook, ss to 1st tr to join. [12 tr] Round 2 Ss into sp between 1st and 2nd sts, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in same sp, work 2tr in each sp between stitches around, ss in 1st tr to join. [24 tr] Round 3 *Ch5, ss in same st, ss in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, ss in 1st ch-5 sp. [12 ch-5 sps] Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), (dc, htr, tr, htr, dc) in each ch- 5 sp around, ss in 1st dc to join. [60 sts] Round 5 Ss across to first tr, *ch3, ss in same tr, ss in next 2 sts, ch3, ss in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. [24 ch-3 sps] Round 6 Ss in 1st ch-3 sp, *ch3, ss in next
WEDDING IDEAS
ch-3 sp; repeat from * around. Round 7 Ss to first ch-3 sp, (ch3, tr, ch1, 2tr) in same sp, ss in next ch3-sp, *(2tr, ch1, 2tr) in next ch-3 sp, ss in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 8 Ss across to 1st ch-1 sp, (ch3, 2tr, picot, 2tr) in ch-1 sp, ch1, tr in next ss, ch1, *(3tr, picot, 2tr) in next ch-1 sp, ch1, tr in next ss, ch1; repeat from * around, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join.
Round 2 Ch3, (ch1, tr in next st) 15 times, ch1, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [32 sts] Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in same st, ch2, (dc into next tr, ch2) 15 times, ss to first dc. [48 sts] Round 4 Ss into first ch-sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-sp, (ch1, 3tr in next ch-sp) 15 times, ch1, ss to top of beg ch-3. [16 3-tr groups] Round 5 Ss across to first ch-1 sp, ch1, dc in same ch-sp, ch3, (dc in next ch-sp, ch3) 15 times, ss to first dc to join. Round 6 Ch1, dc in same st, *(dc, tr, dtr) in next ch-3 sp, ch2, (dtr, tr, dc) in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * 7 times more omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Round 7 Ss across to next ch-sp, ch1 (does not count as st), (dc in ch-sp, ch8) 8 times, ss to first dc. Round 8 Ch3, (9tr in next ch-sp, tr into dc) 7 times, 9tr in next ch-sp, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [80 sts] Round 9 Ch3, 3tr in st at base of ch-3, (ch7, skip 9 tr, 4tr into next st) 7 times, ch7, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Round 10 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in next 2 sts, 2tr in next st, (ch6, skip ch-7 sp, 2tr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, 2tr in next st)
7 times, ch6, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [96 sts] Round 11 Ch1, (dc, tr) in same st, *tr in next st, ch2, dc in next st, ch2, skip next st, tr in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, 2dc in next ch-6 sp, (working in front of same ch-6 sp, tr in ch-7 sp in Round 9, dc in same ch-6 sp in Round 10) twice, dc in same ch-6 sp in Round 10, (dc, tr) in next tr; repeat from * 7 times more omitting last (dc, tr), ss to first dc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
YARN STOCKISTS A Yarn Story www.ayarnstory.co.uk
TO MAKE UP Sew half the Motif into place on the Pouch to create an opening flap. Sew button in place to secure using a ch-1 sp of Round 7.
Doily This pretty mandala also has a practical use as a table mat. Hook up a whole set in favourite colours. By Bryony Hitchcock. Q Namolio linen yarn (100% linen, 25g/130m), 1 ball of Glacier (018) Q A 2.25mm (US B/1) hook
MEASUREMENTS Motif measures approx 10x10cm (4x4in) MOTIF Make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 15tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [16 sts] Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23
P s s t w av e
the Hook y in c e a ing w i t h e a d e c e a i n g and
ch vron cardigan
It’s that time of the year, so have fun and show of your style with this gorgeous cardigan. By Fran Morgan.
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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 25
Ch vron cardigan With stripy sleeves, wavy chevrons and eye-popping colour, we all know someone who would suit this fabulous cardigan. Whether it’s for you or a friend, be inspired by the amazing shades.
GO PRO 4 PLY WEIGHT
3MM 3.5MM
NOTES YOU WILL NEED
Beg ch3 does not count as a st throughout. Remember not to work into the beg ch3 when you reach the end of the next row. The Stripe Sequence runs from Yarns A-E throughout, working 2 rows of each colour.
DROPS Safran (100% cotton, 50g/160m) Yarn A Lime (31) Yarn B Raspberry (13) Yarn C Turquoise (30) Yarn D Strong Yellow (11) Yarn E Dark Heather (15) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q A 3.5mm (US E /4) hook Q 5 small buttons For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q
CHEVRON STITCH PATTERN Multiples of 12 + 2 sts Row 1 (RS) Ch3 (does not count as st), tr in st at base of ch, *2tr in next st, 3tr, (tr2tog) twice, 3tr, 2tr in next st**; rep from * to last st, tr in last st, turn. The Stitch Pattern repeat is from * to ** on each row. Row 1 sets pattern. BACK Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch92 (104: 116: 128). Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [92 (104: 116: 128) sts] Row 2 Repeat Row 1. Rows 3-8 Continuing with Yarn B, and the Stripe Sequence, work 6 more rows of dc as above. Row 9 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [90 (102: 114: 126) sts] Rows 10-12 As Row 1.
TENSION 19 sts and 7.5 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 3.5mm hook over Chevron Stitch Pattern 20sts and 12 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 3.5mm hook over Sleeve Stitch Pattern
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
SIZE TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST (APPROX) SLEEVE LENGTH b
c
LENGTH
a
Width a: 47.5 (53.5: 60: 66.5)cm 18½ (21: 43½: 11½)in Sleeve Length b: 44cm 17¾in Length c: 27 (27.5: 28.5: 29)cm 10¾ (10¾: 11¼: 11½)in 26 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Rows 13-20 Rep the last 4 rows, twice more. [86 (98: 110: 122) sts] Change to 3.5mm hook. Work in the Chevron Stitch Pattern, (7 (8: 9: 10) patt repeats + 2 sts) continuing the Stripe Sequence until the work measures 33cm, ending with a WS row. Fasten off.
ARMHOLE DECREASING With RS facing, rejoin yarn to 7th st from side seam. Row 1 (RS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr2tog, 3tr, 2tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 3tr, (tr2tog) twice, 3tr, 2tr in next st; rep from * to last 13 sts, 2tr in next st, 3tr, tr2tog, tr in next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [5 (6: 7: 8) full patt repeats and 7 sts at each end of the row] Row 2 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog, 2tr, 2tr in next st, work Chevron Stitch Patt repeat from * to last 7 sts, 2tr in next st, 2tr, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [5 (6: 7: 8) full patt repeats and 6 sts at each end of the row] Row 3 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog over next 2 sts, tr in next st, 2tr in next st, work in Stitch Patt to last 6 sts, 2tr in next st, tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [5 sts at each end of the row] Row 4 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog, 2tr in next st, work in Stitch Patt to last 5 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [4 sts at each end of the row] Row 5 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, 2tr, work in Stitch Patt to last 4 sts, 8-10
12-14
16-20
22-24
cm
81-86
91-97
102-112
117-122
in
32-34
36-38
40-44
46-48
cm
95
107
120
133
in
37¼
42¼
47¼
52¼
cm
44
44
44
44
in
17¾
17¾
17¾
17¾
cm
54
55
57
58
in
21¼
21½
22½
22¾
YARN A LIME (31)
50g
2
3
3
3
YARN B RASBERRY (13)
50g
2
3
3
3
YARN C TURQUOISE (30)
50g
2
2
3
3
YARN D STRONG YELLOW (11)
50g
2
2
3
3
YARN E DARK HEATHER (15)
50g
2
2
3
3
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.
ch vron cardigan 2tr, tr2tog, turn. [3 sts at each end of the row] Row 6 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr2tog, work in Stitch Patt to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [2 sts at each end of the row] Row 7 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, work in Stitch Patt to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn. [1 st at each end of the row] Continue working in Stitch Patt on these 62 (74: 86: 98) sts until armhole measures 19 (20: 22: 23) cm, ending on a WS row. Work 1 row in Pattern. Last row Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, *2dc, 3htr, 2tr, 3htr, 2dc; rep from * to last st, dc in last st, fasten off. LEFT FRONT Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch47 (53: 59: 65). Work as Rows 1-20 of Back, but replace Row 9 with the following: Row 9 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end, turn. [44 (50: 56: 62) sts after Row 20] Change to a 3.5mm hook.
SIZES 8-10 AND 16-20 The stitch multiple for the Stitch Pattern is a multiple of 12 sts + 8 for these sizes, so you will need to modify the Stitch Patt as follows: Row 1 (RS) Work as for Chevron Stitch Pattern as set to last 7 sts, 2tr in next st, 3tr, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. Row 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr2tog, 3tr, 2tr in next st, work Stitch Pattern repeat to end, turn. These 2 rows set patt. Work in pattern until you have worked the same number of rows as the Back to the armhole. Fasten off.
Row 3 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog over next 2 sts, tr in next st, 2tr in next st, work in Stitch Patt to end, turn. [5 sts at armhole edge] Row 4 Work in Stitch Patt to last 5 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [4 sts at armhole edge] Row 5 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, 2tr, work in Stitch Patt to end, turn. [3 sts at armhole edge] Row 6 Work in Stitch Patt to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [2 sts at armhole edge] In the following row, the Neckline shaping begins at the neckline edge: Row 7 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, work in Stitch Patt to last 7 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [2 (2: 3: 3) full patt reps + 1 (7: 1: 7) sts]
SIZES 8-10 AND 16-20 Row 8 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, turn. Row 9 Work in Stitch Patt to last 4 sts, (tr2tog) twice, turn. Row 10 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, work in Stitch Patt to end, turn. [1 (2) full patt reps + 8 sts] Continue working in patt until there are the same number of rows as the Back, finishing with Last row as follows: Last row (WS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next st, 3htr, 2dc, *2dc, 3htr, 2tr, 3htr, 2dc; rep from * to last st, dc in last st. Fasten off.
Work the stripes in dc before starting to work the Chevron Stitch Pattern for the main body.
SIZES 8-10 AND 16-20 Row 1 (RS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr2tog, 3tr, 2tr in next st, work Stitch Pattern repeat to end, turn. Row 2 Work as for Chevron Stitch Pattern as set to last 7 sts, 2tr in next st, 3tr, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. These 2 rows set patt. Work in pattern until you have worked the same number of rows as the Back to the armhole. Fasten off.
SIZES 12-14 AND 22-24
SIZES 12-14 AND 22-24 Work in Chevron Stitch Pattern as set until you have worked the same number of rows as the Back to the armhole. Fasten off.
ARMHOLE AND NECKLINE DECREASING, ALL SIZES
Row 8 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog, 2tr, work in Stitch Patt to end, turn. [4 sts at neckline edge] Row 9 Work in Stitch Patt to last 4 sts, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [2 sts at neckline edge] Row 10 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, work in Stitch Patt to end, turn. (2: 3) full patt reps + 2 sts] Continue working in patt until there are the same number of rows as the Back, finishing with Last row as for Back. Fasten off.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to 7th st from side seam. Row 1 (RS) Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr2tog, 3tr, 2tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 3tr, (tr2tog) twice, 3tr, 2tr in next st; rep from * to last st, tr in last st, turn. [7 sts at armhole edge before start of first full repeat] Row 2 Work in Stitch Patt to last 7 sts, 2tr in next st, 2tr, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [6 sts at armhole edge]
RIGHT FRONT Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch47 (53: 59: 65). Work as Rows 1-20 of Back, but replace Row 9 with the following: Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [44 (50: 56: 62) sts after Row 20] Change to a 3.5mm hook.
Sizes 12-14 and 22-24 Work in Chevron Stitch Pattern as set until you have worked the same number of rows as the Back to the armhole. Fasten off.
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ARMHOLE AND NECKLINE DECREASING, ALL SIZES Row 1 (RS) Work in patt as set to last 7 sts, tr in next st, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [7 sts at armhole edge after last full patt repeat] Row 2 Ch3, tr2tog over st st base of ch and next st, tr2tog, 2tr, 2tr in next st, patt to end, turn. [6 sts at armhole edge] Row 3 Work in patt as set to last 6 sts, 2tr in next st, tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, turn. [5 sts at armhole edge] Row 4 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog, 2tr in next st, patt to end, turn. [4 sts at armhole edge] Row 5 Work in patt as set to last 4 sts, 2tr, tr2tog, turn. [3 sts at armhole edge] Row 6 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr2tog, WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27
ch vron cardigan patt to end, turn. [2 sts at armhole edge] Fasten off and rejoin yarn with facing in the 8th st (not counting beg ch3) from neckline edge.
SIZES 8-10 AND 16-20 Row 7 Ch3, starting in st at base of ch, the patt will start from the beginning of the patt repeat as from * in the original st patt, patt to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn. [2 (3) full patt reps + 1 st] Row 8 Patt to last 6 sts, (tr2tog) twice, 2tr, turn. Row 9 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog, turn. Row 10 Patt to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn. [1 (2) full patt reps + 8 sts] Continue working in patt until there are the same number of rows as the Back, finishing with Last row as follows: Last row (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first st, *2dc, 3htr, 2tr, 3htr, 2dc; rep from * to last 7 sts, 2dc, 3htr, 2tr. Fasten off.
SIZES 12-14 AND 22-24 Row 7 Ch3, tr2tog over st at base of ch and next st, 3tr, 2tr in next st, patt to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn. (2: 3) full patt reps + 7 sts] Row 8 Patt to last 6 sts, 2tr, (tr2tog) twice, turn. Row 9 Ch3, over st at base of ch and next st, tr2tog, patt to end, turn. Row 10 Patt to last 2 sts, tr2tog, turn. [(2: 3) full patt reps + 2 sts] Continue in patt until there are the same number of rows as the Back, finishing with last row as for Back. Fasten off. SLEEVE (MAKE 2) Using a 3mm hook and Yarn A, ch44 (48: 54: 58) sts. Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc into each ch to end, turn. [44 (48: 54: 58) sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rows 3-16 Continue working in dc as set in stripe sequence. Change to a 3.5mm hook. SLEEVE STITCH PATTERN Row 1 Ch3 (does not count as st), tr in each dc to end, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in each tr to end (not including beg ch-3), turn. These 2 rows set pattern.
Match the cuffs to the stripes at the base for a professional fiinish.
Inc row Work 2 sts in the first and the last sts of the row. Work in patt for 2 rows. Rep the last 3 rows 8 more times until there are 62 (66: 72: 76) sts. Cont until Sleeve measures 45cm, ending on a Row 2. Fasten off.
SHAPE ARMHOLE With RS facing, rejoin yarn to 7th st from side seam. Row 1 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch and in each st to last 6 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. [50 (54: 60: 64) sts] Row 2 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [48 (52: 58: 62) sts] Continue decreasing 1 st at each end of every row, working either tr2tog or dc2tog for decrease according to patt row, until there are 20 (22: 30: 34)sts left.
SIZES 8-10 AND 16-20 Fasten off.
SLEEVE INCREASES
SIZES 12-14 AND 22-24
Cont in patt and stripe sequence over the following rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of next (3: 4) rows. Fasten off. [(24: 26) sts]
28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
BORDER Using a 3mm hook and Yarn D, rejoin at bottom hem of Right Front ready to work up Right Front centre edge. Row 1 (RS) Dc into each dc row end, 2dc into each tr row end, 3dc into corner, dc in each st to neckline side edge, 2dc into each tr row end up side of neck, dc in each back neck st, work down other side to match first side, fasten off at bottom edge. Row 2 Rejoin Yarn E at bottom hem of Right Front and work 1 row of dc in each st. Mark 5 places for buttonholes evenly spaced along Right Front Edge. Row 3 Repeat Row 2 with With Yarn A, working (ch2, skip 2 sts) at each marked place for buttonholes, fasten off and weave in all ends. TO MAKE UP Sew Sleeve cap into armhole. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Sew 5 buttons to Left Front opposite buttonholes.
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your fr gift EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT
3.5MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Use your free gift or oddments of yarn to make the flower Q 2m of Yarn A White Q 4m of Yarn B Green Q 3m of Yarn C Lime Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q Card and envelope
MEASUREMENTS Flower measures 9cm diameter
ABBREVIATIONS 2-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook 3-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 4 loops on hook Picot Ch3, ss to third ch from hook For a full list, see page 92
Sent with love Make someone’s day with a pretty flower card, designed exclusively for us by Tilly Flop. We had a fabulous time working on this month’s free gift with Julie Nelson Rhodes from Tilly Flop Designs – it includes not only this card, but message stickers and fun tattoos to use as well. Add a lovely crochet flower by Lucy Croft (you can make it in a couple of hours) and ta-da! FLOWER Using Yarn A, ch5, ss to first ch to join in a ring. Round 1 (RS) Ch2, 2-tr cluster into ring, Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
ch3, (3-tr cluster into ring, ch3) 5 times, ss to top of first cluster to join, fasten off. Round 2 (RS) Join Yarn B in any ch-3 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), (4dtr, tr) in same ch-3 sp, (tr, 4dtr, tr) in next ch-3 sp 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 3 (RS) Join Yarn C between any 2 tr, *ch1, skip next tr, dc in next dtr, ch2, dc in next dtr, picot, dc in next dtr, ch2, dc in next dtr, ch1, ss in sp between next 2tr; repeat from * 5 more times, fasten off. Weave in all ends. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 31
EMMA’S JOURNAL
o i d u t s e h t m o r f ...
Emma Friedlander-Collins has decided to make her crochet career more of a social occupation, connecting with people on a global scale… oday I want to celebrate everyone who makes up this incredible community. I’ve been a cro-pro for three years now, and my biggest concern when I decided to leave the comfortable, corporate world of government planning was “who am I going to hang out with all day?” (well that and “will we be able to eat?”). Initially I was very happy sitting with all the yarn, under a blanket, watching box sets. Who wouldn’t be? But I knew I’d need to find a daily network of people to connect with, otherwise I’d end up shopping in my pyjamas and talking to myself.
T
SOCIAL NETWORK I’m quite an anxious sort, but I’m blessed with a misplaced, fearless ability to message literally anyone. It’s a very specific superpower, but one I’d definitely recommend practising. No one was safe: people I followed on Instagram, magazine editors, yarn companies, anyone I thought might like to meet up, or would like to make something together, I emailed. Most of them were only a sentence or two long, starting “I hope you don’t find this weird, but…”, and saying who I was,
“I’m blessed wit h a fea rless abi lity to message litera lly anyone.”
what I do, and “if you’d like to get together for a chat that would be ace!” Professional to the core, right? But most people responded, and now I’ve made some genuine friends. SPINNING A YARN On one occasion, fellow crochet designer Kath Webber and I ended up in a hotel in Birmingham with nothing but a double bed. I have had the pleasure of working with some genuinely delightful people, and getting to meet and do stuff that I’d never imagined – the double bed adventure for example. What’s even more incredible are the relationships I’ve made and the people I’ve met because of yarn and Instagram. INSTANT UPS AND DOWNS Instagram became a lifeline when I first started working for myself, as it gave me daily contact with like-minded people. I never set out to build a big account or get heaps of followers, I was just sharing pics of things I was making and yarn I loved, and chatting with people who loved it too. Three years on I’ve learned a lot of lessons about the perils and pitfalls of baring
re “I have had the pleasu working with some genuinely delightful people .”
“A little hook and b us all.” of yarn connect your soul on social media, trusting people just because they have a similar passion to you. But the most enduring thing I’ve learned, is that the world is full of wonderful people. WOOLLY CHAT Last week, on a beautifully sunny, slightly chill morning, I met with Emily of makeE at the glorious Bateman’s manor house in East Sussex. It’s almost exactly halfway between where we both live, and having missed out on meeting up at a HobbyCraft do, we decided to just make a date and meet there. It’s always a bit tense when your only common ground is crochet, but I can chat for England, and once you have a cup of tea and dig your yarn out, then what could go wrong? It was just lovely, and I hope we get to meet up again because I have a feeling we could sit with our yarn and chat indefinitely.
INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY Instagram has put me in touch with a world of people. I’ve met Pony McTate from New Zealand, corresponded with Fiona @ thedizzylimits and Skyped with Mandy @crochetbyredagape, both in Australia, and run workshops with Christine @ sewyeah, @sincerelylouise and Kath Webber nearer home. What is wonderful is that it’s a little hook and a ball of yarn that connects us all. Keep up with Emma via her blog at https://blog.lovecrochet. com/author/emmafcollins and on Instagram @steelandstitch In issue 69 we wrongly attributed Emma Friedlander-Collins’ column to Kate Bruning. We apologise to Emma, Kate and our readers for any confusion caused.
A look at my month We got ma ied thi time la t yea , so the e will be bunting making, cake baking and flo al c own making ready fo an annive a y picnic. But mo tly the e’s heaps of homewo k, re ea ching how making i good fo eve yone and eve ything, and how it can be u ed to tackle su tainability.
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isSue sIxty-Nine Issue 69 is brought to you by the colour teal – which features in the new series on colour from Kate Bruning, our stylish Desk Pop office collection and a cute amigurumi peacock. We’re also going all glam with beads, gems and sequins. Plus, there’s an amazing elephant head from Vanessa Mooncie.
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Pandamonium You’ll be able to make this cute bamboo-carrying character with your ‘bear’ hands. By Ilaria Caliri.
amigurumi PANDA EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT
2.5MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Yarn and Colors Must Have (100% cotton, 50g/125m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A White (001) Yarn B Anthracite (099) Q Yarn and Colors Must Have Minis (100% cotton, 10g/25m), 1 ball of each: Yarn C Mustard (015) Yarn D Lettuce (081) Yarn E Peony Leaf (86) Q Stranded cotton, pink Q A 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2) crochet hook Q 2 safety eyes or black beads approx 6mm diameter Q Stitch markers Q Toy stuffing For yarn stockists contact Yarn Plaza www.yarnplaza.com
Ever wondered how a chap would carry his bamboo snacks when he’s going about his important panda business? Well, Ilaria Caliri’s friendly little bear has the answer – her panda comes complete with a bag for his tasty bamboo treats. He’s fun to make, with just a few techniques bringing this adorable chap to life.
Q
MEASUREMENTS Panda measures approx 18cm (7in) tall
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
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NOTES The Panda is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work. EYE PATCH With Yarn B, ch4. Round 1 Dc in second ch from hook and next ch, 5dc in last ch, rotate to work along opposite side of starting chain, dc in next st, 4dc in last st. [12 dc] Round 2 (3dc, 2dc in next 3 sts) twice. [18 dc] Round 3 3dc, (2dc in next st, dc) 3 times, 3dc, (2dc in next st, dc) 3 times. [24 dc] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. HEAD With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 3dc) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (2dc in next st, 4dc) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 (2dc in next st, 5dc) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 8 (2dc in next st, 6dc) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 9 (2dc in next st, 7dc) 6 times. [54 sts] Round 10 (2dc in next st, 8dc) 6 times. [60 sts] Round 11 (2dc in next st, 9dc) 6 times. [66 sts] Rounds 12-19 Dc in each dc around. Round 20 (Dc2tog, 9dc) 6 times. [60 sts] Round 21 (Dc2tog, 8dc) 6 times. [54 sts] Round 22 (Dc2tog, 7dc) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 23 (Dc2tog, 6dc) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 24 (Dc2tog, 5dc) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 25 (Dc2tog, 4dc) 6 times. [30 sts]
Work from the base up to create the panda’s rotund (aka cuddly!) two-tone body.
Round 26 (Dc2tog, 3dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 27 (Dc2tog, 2dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Insert one of the safety eyes into the Eye Patch (into the starting ch) then insert both safety eyes between Rounds 15 and 16 approx 14 sts apart using the image as a guide. Fasten off and weave in ends. MUZZLE With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 4dc, 4htr, 8tr, 4htr, 4dc. [24 sts] Round 6 Dc in each st around. [24 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Embroider the nose onto the Muzzle using the pink thread making long stitches to create a triangle between Rounds 3 and 5. Stitch the mouth using the image as a guide. Sew the Muzzle to the Head between the eyes, stuff slightly as you stitch. EARS (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rounds 3-5 Dc in each dc around. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 39
amigurumi PANDA Do not stuff. Fasten off leaving a long tail. Sew the Ears on either side of the Head between Rounds 7 and 11. BODY The Body is worked from the base up. Using Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 3dc) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 6 (2dc in next st, 4dc) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 7 (2dc in next st, 5dc) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 8 (2dc in next st, 6dc) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 9 (2dc in next st, 7dc) 6 times. [54 sts] Rounds 10-18 Dc in each dc around. Round 19 (Dc2tog, 7dc) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 20 Dc in each dc around. Change to Yarn A. Round 21 Dc in each dc around. Round 22 (Dc2tog, 6dc) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 23 Dc in each dc around. [42 sts] Round 24 (Dc2tog, 5dc) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 25 Dc in each dc around. [36 sts] Round 26 (Dc2tog, 4dc) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 27 (Dc2tog, 3dc) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 28 (Dc2tog, 2dc) 6 times. [18 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. ARMS (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Rounds 3-7 Dc in each dc around. [12 sts] Round 8 Dc2tog, 10dc. [11 sts] Round 9 Dc in each dc around. [11 sts] Round 10 Dc2tog, 9dc. [10 sts] Round 11 Dc in each dc around. [10 sts] Round 12 Dc2tog, 8dc. [9 sts] Round 13 Dc in each dc around. [9 sts] Round 14 Dc2tog, 7dc. [8 sts] Round 15 Dc in each dc around. [8 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. LEGS (MAKE 2) With Yarn B, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc 40 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
into the loop. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (partial) 1htr, 3tr in each of next 2 sts, 1htr, 1dc, leave remaining sts unworked. [9 sts] Move stitch marker to next st for new start of round. Rounds 4-5 Dc in each st around. [16 sts] Round 6 7dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog, 1dc. [14 sts] Round 7 7dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 1dc. [12 sts] Rounds 8-13 Dc in each st around. [12 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Give your panda a characterful face with pink stranded cotton and black safety eyes.
BAG With Yarn C, ch7. Round 1 Dc in second ch from hook and next 4 ch, 3dc in last ch, rotate to work along opposite side of starting chain, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in last st. [14 dc] Rounds 2-7 Dc in each dc around. Do not fasten off. STRAP Row 1 Ch46, skip next 7 sts from Round 7, ss in next st, turn. Row 2 Dc in each ch of Strap. Fasten off and weave in ends. BAMBOO STICK (SHORT) With Yarn D, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into the loop. [5 sts] Rounds 2-4 Dc in each dc around. [5 sts] Change to Yarn E. Round 5 1dc, ch3, dc in second ch from hook and next ch, 4dc. [5 sts and 1 leaf] Change to Yarn D. Rounds 6-7 Dc in each st around. [5 sts] Change to Yarn E. Round 8 3dc, ch3, dc in second ch from hook and next ch, 2dc. [5 sts and 1 leaf] Change to Yarn D. Rounds 9-10 Dc in each dc around. [5 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. BAMBOO STICK (LONG) Rounds 1-10 Work as Bamboo Stick (Short). Rounds 11-13 Repeat Rounds 5-7 of Bamboo Stick (Short). Fasten off and weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Stuff the Head and Body and use the long tail to sew the Head onto the Body. Stuff the Arms and use the long tail to sew
Use Mustard, Lettuce and Peony leaf yarn to make0 bamboo and a bag in which to hold it.
them between Rounds 26 and 27 on either side of the Body. Stuff the Legs and use the long tail to sew them to the base of the Body using the image as a guide. Place Bag across Body and add Bamboo.
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With the royal wedding on its way, this colourful cushion by Emma Leith will help you celebrate in style!
h art cushion EASY PEASY DK ARAN
3MM, 3.5MM 6MM
YOU WILL NEED Rico Creative Reflection Print (46% wool, 46% acrylic, 8% polyester, 50g/240m), 1 ball of Candy (001), used doubled Q Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran (100% wool, 50g/100m), 1 ball of Black (090) Q Rico Creative Lamé (62% polyester, 38% polyamide, 25g/135m), 1 ball of Gold (002) Q Rico Fashion Light Luxury (74% alpaca, 22% wool, 4% polyamide, 50g/130m), 2 balls of Neon Fuchsia (022) Q Rico Ricorumi DK (100% cotton, 25g/58m), 2 balls of White (001), 1 ball of each: Black (036), Pale Pink (011), Yellow (006), Orange (026), Deep Red (029), Pale Blue (033), Pale Green (046) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook Q Heart-shaped cushion pad, 40cm (16in) (available from www. cushionwarehouse.co.uk) For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk Q
MEASUREMENTS To fit a heart-shaped cushion pad measuring 40x40cm (16x16in)
ABBREVIATIONS 5-trcl (5-tr cluster) (Yrh, insert hook in sp/st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and pull through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting the hook in the same sp/st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook 4-dtrcl (4-dtr cluster) (Yrh twice, insert hook in sp/st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and pull through 2 loops twice) 4 times, inserting the hook in the same sp/st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook For a full list, see page 92
44 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
The event of the summer? For sure. The event of the year? Could be… Emma Leith’s amazing flowery cushion is the ideal way to mark the occasion. It’s also a chance to try out a host of different stitches and techniques as you piece together this ode to Harry and Meghan. Make all the elements separately and stitch them together to create this gorgeous floral, gold-trimmed delight.
Row 37 Ch1, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [15 sts] Row 38 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end, turn. [14 sts] Row 39 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [12 sts] Rows 40-43 Repeat last row. [4 sts] Fasten off. Rejoin yarn in the next unworked st of Row 34 and repeat Rows 35-43.
NOTES
HEART BORDER
Make all the elements of this piece before sewing any of it together. Candy is used held doubled, so you will need to wind off half of the ball to be able to hold 2 strands together. Alternatively, pull out the end of the ball from the centre and use the beginning and end of the ball at the same time.
The Border is worked around the Front Heart only. Rejoin Neon Fuchsia at the bottom centre of one Heart. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in point of Heart, work a further 57dc evenly around outside edge to top centre of Heart, dc3tog over centre ‘indent’ of Heart (centre st), 57dc evenly around other side of Heart, working (2dc, ch2) into base of first st, ss to top of first dc, fasten off. [119 dc, ch-2 sp]
HEART (MAKE 2) Using Neon Fuchsia and a 6mm hook, ch2. Row 1 2dc in second ch from hook, turn. [2 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc into each st, turn. [4 sts] Row 3 (Inc row) 2dc in first st, dc in each st to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [6 sts] Row 4 As Row 3. [8 sts] Row 5 (Plain row) Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Row 6 As Row 3. [10 sts] Row 7 As Row 3. [12 sts] Row 8 As Row 5. Row 9 As Row 3. [14 sts] Row 10 As Row 5. Row 11 As Row 3. [16 sts] Row 12 As Row 5. Row 13 As Row 3. [18 sts] Row 14 As Row 3. [20 sts] Row 15 As Row 5. Row 16 As Row 3. [22 sts] Row 17 As Row 3. [24 sts] Row 18 As Row 3. [26 sts] Row 19 As Row 5. Row 20 As Row 3. [28 sts] Rows 21-24 As Row 5. Row 25 As Row 3. [30 sts] Rows 26-27 As Row 5. Row 28 As Row 3. [32 sts] Rows 29-30 As Row 5. Row 31 As Row 3. [34 sts] Rows 32-34 As Row 5.
CURVES AT TOP OF HEART Row 35 Ch1, 17dc, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. Row 36 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each st to end, turn. [16 sts]
Change to Soft Merino Aran Black, and a 4.5mm hook. Join in ch-sp at bottom of Heart with a ss. Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next 35 sts, (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 10 times, dc in next 3 sts, dc3tog over next st, centre st, and next st, (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 10 times, dc in each st to end, 2dc in ch-2 sp, ch2, ss to first dc. [141 dc, ch-2 sp] In the following round, use 2 strands of Candy held together for the cluster sts only. Continue with Black for the other sts, changing between Candy and Black in the last yrh of the previous st. Round 3 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in next 2 sts, 5-tr cl in next st, (htr in next 3 sts, 5-tr cl in next st) 8 times, (htr in next st, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, 5-tr cl in next st) 7 times, (htr in next 3 sts, 5-tr cl in next st) htr in next st, htr3tog over next 3 sts, htr in next st, 5-tr cl in next st, htr in next 3 sts, (5-tr cl, htr in next st, 2htr in next st, htr in next st) 7 times, (5-tr cl in next st, htr in next 3 sts) 9 times, (5-tr cl, ch2, 5-tr cl) in ch-2 sp using Candy for all. Round 4 With Black only, ch1, 7dc, (2dc in next st, 4dc) 7 times, 12dc, (2dc in next st, 4dc) 7 times, 2dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, ss to first dc, fasten off. Round 5 Using 2 strands of Candy, ss into ch-2 sp, ch1, dc in each st around working (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, ss to first dc. Fasten off.
h art cushion SASH
MAIN PART Using White and a 3.5mm hook, ch3, turn. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, turn. [2 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in first st, 1dc, turn. Row 3 Ch1, dc in first 2 sts, 2dc in next st, turn. [4 sts] Row 4 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same st, dc in next 3 sts, turn. [5 sts] Row 5 Ch1, dc in next 4 sts, 2htr in last st, turn. [6 sts] Row 6 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next 3 sts, turn. [7 sts] Row 7 Ch1, dc in next 5 sts, htr in each st across to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [8 sts] Row 8 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [9 sts] Row 9 Repeat Row 7. [10 sts] Row 10 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in next 3 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [11 sts] Row 11 Repeat Row 7. [12 sts] Row 12 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in next 5 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [13 sts] Row 13 Repeat Row 7. [14 sts] Row 14 Ch2, 2htr in next st, htr in next 7 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [15 sts] Row 15 Ch1, dc in next 5 sts, htr in each st across, turn. [15 sts] Row 16 Ch2, htr in next 9 sts, dc in next 5
sts, turn. [15 sts] Rows 17-30 Repeat Rows 15 and 16 seven times more. Rows 31-46 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 47 Ch2, htr in next 9 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [15 sts] Row 48 Ch1, dc in next 5 sts, htr in each st across, turn. [15 sts] Rows 49-60 Repeat Rows 47-48 six times. Row 61 Ch2, htr2tog, htr in next 7 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [14 sts] Row 62 Ch1, dc in next 5 sts, htr in each st across to last 2 sts, htr2tog, turn. [13 sts] Row 63 Ch2, htr2tog, htr in next 5 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [12 sts] Row 64 Repeat Row 62. [11 sts] Row 65 Ch2, htr2tog, htr in next 3 sts, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [10 sts] Row 66 Repeat Row 62. [9 sts] Row 67 Ch2, htr2tog, htr in next st, dc in next 5 sts, turn. [8 sts] Row 68 Repeat Row 62. [7 sts] Row 69 Ch2, htr2tog, dc in next 4 sts, turn. [6 sts] Row 70 Ch1, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [5 sts] Row 71 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts, turn. [4 sts] Row 72 Ch1, dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [3 sts] Row 73 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next st, do not fasten off. [2 sts]
BORDER Round 1 Using White ch1, dc evenly around edge of Sash, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Round 2 Join Gold in first st, ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. SASH ENDS (MAKE 2) Using White and a 3.5mm hook, ch16, turn. Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [15 sts] Rows 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each dc across, turn. [15 sts] Row 5 (RS) Ch1, dc in first 7 dc, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [7 sts] Row 6 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each dc across, turn. [6 sts] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each dc across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [5 sts] Rows 8-9 Repeat Rows 6-7. [3 sts] Row 10 Repeat Row 6. [2 sts] Row 11 Ch1, dc2tog, fasten off. With WS facing, join yarn in first st of Row 4, repeat Rows 5-11, do not fasten off.
BORDER Round 1 Using White, ch1, dc evenly around edge of Sash End working (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into each point and skipping the unworked dc in Row 4 in the centre of the Sash End, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Round 2 Join Gold in first st, ch1, dc in each dc around working (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into each ch-2 sp, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. LETTERS ‘H’ AND ‘M’ All elements of letters are worked with Ricorumi Black and a 3.5mm hook with WS facing when positioning to form letters.
LEFT SWIRL OF ‘H’ AND ‘M’ Ch58, ss in 3rd ch from hook to make picot, skip next 2 ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in next 24 ch, ss in next 2 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Sash.
RIGHT VERTICAL OF ‘H’ Ch39, ss in 3rd ch from hook to make picot, skip next 2 ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in next 11 ch, ss in next 11 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Sash.
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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 45
h art cushion HORIZONTAL OF ‘H’ AND RIGHT VERTICAL OF ‘M’ Ch20, ss in 3rd ch from hook to make picot, skip next 2 ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in next 11 ch, ss in next 2 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Sash.
RIGHT SIDE OF THE ‘V’ IN ‘M’ Ch16, ss in 3rd ch from hook to make picot, skip next 2 ch, tr in next ch, dc in next 7 ch, ss in next ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Sash.
Round 3 Working with the back of the Flower facing, join Deep Red around the post of any stitch in Round 1 with a 3.5mm hook, ch1 (does not count as st), dc around same post, *ch2, skip next post, dc around next post; repeat from *4 times more, ch2, ss to first ch-2 sp to join. [6dc and 6 ch-2 sp] Round 4 Ch2 (counts as htr) 3htr in same ch-2 sp, (4htr in next ch-2 sp) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. Round 5 *Ch3, 4-dtrcl in next st, ch3, ss in each of next 2 sts; repeat from *7 times more, fasten off. [8 petals] With RS facing, turn all petals so they curve into the centre of the Flower.
Make this shimmering heart with a Gold Creative Lamé border to take centre stage.
LEFT SIDE OF THE ‘V’ IN ‘M’ Ch15. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Sash. SMALL HEART Using Deep Red and a 3.5mm hook, make a magic ring. Round 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), 9htr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [10 htr] Round 2 Ch3, (tr, 2dtr) in same st, 2tr in next st, htr in next st, 2dc in next st, htr in next st, ch3, ss to 3rd ch from hook, htr in next st, 2dc in next st, htr in next st, 2tr in next st, (2dtr, tr, ch3, ss) in last st, fasten off. Round 3 Join Gold in first st, (dc, ch1) in each st around, working (dc, ch3, ss to 3rd ch from hook into point at bottom of Heart, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Sash. SMALL FLOWERS (MAKE 11) Make 11 Flowers, varying the colours of Petals in Round 2 using the image as a guide. Using Ricorumi Black and a 3.5mm hook, make magic ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout) 11tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. [12 sts] Round 2 Join your choice of Ricorumi yarn in any st, *ch3, 4-dtrcl in next st, ch3, ss in next st; repeat from * 5 times more. [6 petals] Fasten off and weave in ends. Using Gold and a tapestry needle, embroider 6 French knots into the centre of the Flower using the image as a guide. LARGE FLOWERS (MAKE 2) Make 2 Flowers using Deep Red for the petals. 46 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
LEAF (MAKE 19) Make 6 in Pale Green and 13 in Gold. With a 3.5mm hook, ch11, ss in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in each of next 3 ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in in last 3 ch, rotate to work along opposite side of starting ch, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in each of next 3 ch, tr in next ch, htr in next ch, dc in in next ch, ss to next ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. LARGE ROSE Using Deep Red and a 3.5mm hook, ch27, turn. Row 1 Dc in 3rd ch from hook, (ch2, skip next ch, dc in next ch) 12 times, turn. Row 2 Ch2 (counts as htr) 4htr in next ch-2 sp, ss in next dc, (5htr in next ch-2 sp, ss in next dc) 4 times, (5tr in next ch-2 sp, ss in next dc) times, turn. Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in same st, (2dc in each of next 5 sts, ss in next ss) 12 times. Fasten off, leaving a 20cm tail for sewing Rose together. Row 4 Join Gold in first st, ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 4 times, spike st in dc directly below in Row 1, *(dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 5 times, spike st in dc directly below in Row 1; repeat from * across. Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP ROSE Starting with the small petal in the middle wrap the strip around itself to form the Rose. Carefully turn the Rose over, thread yarn needle with long tail and sew Row 1 together to keep the rose in shape. TO MAKE UP Take the Front Heart (main piece with the Border), with RS facing, work surface
These two ends cleverly give the impression of a sash that covers the whole cushion.
crochet around the perimeter of the Pink Heart using Gold and a 3.5mm hook, Fasten off. Using the image as a guide and with all pieces of the Letters with WS facing up, pin the Letters into place on the Main Sash leaving a central space for the Small Heart. Using the tails of the Letters, sew securely into place and weave in all ends. Sew Small Heart to the centre of the Sash and the Large Flowers and 4 green Leaves at either edge. Position the Sash across the Front Heart ensuring the edges meet up. Sew securely into place. Position the Sash Ends, using the image as a guide, and sew securely into place. Position the Flowers and Leaves onto the Heart using the image as a guide and sew securely into place. Weave in all ends. Using Neon Pink and a tapestry needle, sew the Front and Back Hearts together around the perimeter with WS facing leaving an opening for inserting the cushion pad. Insert pad and sew the remaining edge closed.
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We post internationally from Australia. We stock a range of quality Australian & UK yarns.
3c East Market St, Richmond, NSW 2753, Australia
banksiayarns.com.au
GOOD READ Amanda’s fave thing is designing colourful beautiful blankets.
Amanda Perkins crocheted blankets to showcase her vivid yarns before her designs took on a life of their own. We discover her brilliant life. ecoming addicted to the process and beauty of yarn dyeing was a ‘eureka moment’ for crochet designer Amanda Perkins. It all started with a bit of hand dyeing that ended up becoming a yarn company in 2001. “I became hooked very early on and dyed far too much yarn for me to use, so put some up for sale on eBay. It sold like hot cakes and The Natural Dye Studio was born,” Amanda explains. With so much self-dyed yarn at her fingertips, the next step was to devise her own crochet creations. “I started designing patterns as pattern support for The Natural Dye Studio yarn,” she recalls, in what was the obvious next step in a life that had long been dedicated to crochet. “My Granny
B
48 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
taught me to crochet when I was so small that I don’t remember learning. It feels as though crochet is something I’ve always been able to do.” Much as she loved dabbling with different colours and dyes, demand for her patterns meant that Amanda had to close the studio in order to focus fully on coming up with new crochet designs. “My designs sold so well that my patterns stopped being pattern support for my yarn and my yarn turned into yarn support for my patterns,” she says. Running the business with her daughter Daisy, Amanda was also immersed in writing her book Rainbow Crocheted Blankets, which was swallowing acres of time. “We just couldn’t cope with the workload,” she says. “We were both constantly exhausted and
arguing with each other. I decided that it was time to close Natural Dye Studio as it was far more important to have a good relation ship with my daughter, plus I needed to dedicate my time to concentrating on the book.” A FOCUS ON DESIGN When it comes to gathering ideas for her popular designs, Amanda says that she doesn’t really use any tools. “Instead, I spend a lot of time experimenting with shape and colour on Photoshop. I guess you could call it sketching.” The online world also feeds Amanda’s thirst for image and colour. “I follow a lot of talented designers on Instagram,” she says. “I’m also a Pinterest addict and have to limit my time on it. I definitely prefer visual to written.”
GOOD READ
From the vibrancy of Amanda’s blankets, it’s clear that she has an innate penchant for colour. “I don’t really think about it – it’s just there – but I do get really excited if I see a colour combination I haven’t previously discovered,” she says. “I love to see all the colours together at the same time, like tubes of paint in art shops, paint charts and so on.” Amanda’s days have developed a pleasing rhythm we can’t help but envy a little. “I spend the mornings in my wool room working on designs and admin, surrounded by shelves of yarn and pin boards with swatches and pictures,” she says. “The crochet part of the day is spent on my sofa in the living room with my dogs and the TV on in the background. The walls are white and the room quite minimalistic – the only other thing it contains is a set of bookshelves. I like it that way as it focuses my concentration on the colours and design that I’m making.” THE SCHOOL OF ART A background in art has helped to shape Amanda’s design preferences, while her home on Exmoor in south-west England is possibly the biggest influence on her output. Each of her creations sizzles with shade combinations chosen for the impact they have when placed side by side. It’s a powerful effect. “I think art college taught me to look at the world in more depth and not be afraid to experiment,” Amanda says. “I’m normally inspired by the colours of the landscape and small snippets of time in my life, such as my ‘Cote de Lynmouth’ blanket.” The text accompanying the blanket pattern says: “When I was a teenager, my parents had a house in the south of France on the Côte d’Azur. I live on Exmoor, high on a sea cliff overlooking the small seaside village of Lynmouth. On a sunny summer’s Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
day when the temperature is hot, the sea is turquoise and the palm trees are gently swaying in the wind, Lynmouth feels like I am back in the south of France again.” It’s a nostalgic idea, crossing eras and geography. It’s no surprise, then, to learn that blankets are a perfect showcase for these designs, inspired by nature. “I love designing and crocheting blankets because they give me a big flat canvas to work on, which enables me to focus on colour and shape,” she explains. “I don’t design or crochet anything else.” MAKING AND DOING Amanda prefers high quality yarns, as you’d expect given her background as a yarn wrangler herself, only using natural fibres. “I mainly work with two yarn companies: Fyberspates (www.fyberspates.com) and John Arbon Textiles (www.jarbon.com), which are run by friends from my Natural Dye Studio days,” she says. “My favourite yarns at the moment are Scrumptious 4ply by Fyberspates and Devonia 4ply by John Arbon Textiles, but I also love DROPS Alpaca and use Cascade 220 fingering as it has a huge palette I can work with.“ Crochet itself is, for Amanda, a fairly instinctive process. “I make motifs, which I think of as jigsaw pieces,” she says. “I can use
lots of colours in the same motif, enabling me to create movement of colour in a blanket.” The trick, she says, is to not be afraid of mistakes, which she readily admits to making. “All my blankets have motif mistakes hidden somewhere. They normally become apparent on the last round, so I tend to fudge the number of stitches. If a design or colour isn’t working, I frog or pin it on my swatch board and start again. It’s important to accept that there will be mistakes and that they’re not the end of the world.” It’s this enthusiasm and unflappability that has equipped Amanda to create such a dazzlingly appealing library of patterns for colourful blankets that will bring beauty to any home. It’s also the reason why Amanda’s website isn’t necessarily all that straightforward to find. “My website’s URL is www.amandasperkinscrochetblankets.com. Notice anything strange? Please note the extra ‘s’ – it happened because I’m an idiot and can’t spell my own name!” An extra ‘s’? No problem. We’re pretty sure it stands for sensational, stunning, striking or spectacular, and who could argue with that? Written by Judy Darley Find out more on Amanda’s website – go to www.amandasperkinscrochetblankets.com
“I LOVE TO SEE ALL THE COLOURS TOGETHER AT THE SAME TIME, LIKE PAINT CHARTS”
A few of her favourite things When Amanda’s not crocheting…
“I love gardening, reading and driving. I love road trips and exploring the moor, and have a Land Rover, so fords, flooded roads and snow are really exciting. I am very lucky to live on Exmoor, North Devon in the UK – the place and landscape I live in has always been very important to me and heavily influences my work.”
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 49
IS NE SU W E! OWL PICNIC SET
SWEET SUNHAT
LACY CUSHION
PRETTY BE ACH DRESS
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£n4clu.d9in9g i
In the latest jam-packed issue of Love Crochet, we have stacks
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of fantastic projects to get you in the mood for summer including a gorgeous little girls' sunhat, sizzling beach dress and an adorable pair of baby sandals. And if it's homeware you fancy making, we have a stylish, lacy cushion, pretty picture frames, useful hanging bathroom basket and cute little lavender bag to keep your home smelling sweetly fresh. Plus, we also have expert advice, kit reviews and an easy-tofollow tutorial. Don’t miss out – order your copy today!
AT JUST £4.99 THIS ISSUE INCLUDES: ■ Quick & easy projects ■ Advice & tutorials ■ Designer Q&A Plus! We have all the latest news, kit reviews easy-to-follow step by steps with every project, and pages of gorgeous shopping inspiration to get you in crochet frame of mind!
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CALL 03330 162 138 and quote ‘Love Crochet May 2018 print 1’ ONLINE www.buysubscriptions.com/craftspecial †Calls from landlines will cost up to 9p per minute. Call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 55p per minute but are included in free call packages. Lines are open 8.00am -6.00pm weekdays and 9.00am – 1pm Saturday for orders only *Free delivery available on UK orders only. Overseas please call +44 (0) 3330 162 138. EUR price £6.99, ROW price £7.99. All prices include p&p. Please allow up to 14 days for delivery.
RUD BOY CAP
However you wear it, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll certainly catch some eyes with this colourful hat. By Matthew Spiers.
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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 51
RUD BOY CAP EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT
3.5MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Patons Fab DK (100% acrylic, 100g/274m), 1 ball of Fruity (02324) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook Q 1mm aluminium craft wire, approx 3m (1¼yds) Q Wire cutting pliers For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
This cap has been designed in a cycling hat style, which you can wear at a jaunty angle and is shallower than most sorts of baseball caps. As the peak contains wire it can be moulded into your preferred style: curve it upwards for a cycling hat, straighten it flat, or just give it a slight arch for a normal cap look.
Q
MEASUREMENTS Circumference (not including stretch) at base is approx 56cm (22in); depth 14cm (5½in)
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
NOTES The main part of the Cap is worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. The pattern has been split into three sections to make it easy to keep track of where you are in the design, but the Cap as a whole is made in one piece. For a more classic baseball cap style simply increase your hook size to 4.5mm and add extra rows as indicated after Row 28. To avoid any sharp edges at start and end of wire, wrap duct tape around ends before crocheting over it. When you turn the wire at the end of each row on the Peak, you can give the wire a pinch with the pliers, which should help it stay in place a bit better. If, at the end, there are still parts of wire visible at the edges of the Peak, cut a length of yarn and sew cross stitches over the visible wire – this will not only help conceal them, but will also keep the wire in place. CAP
CROWN Ch2. Round 1 6dc in second ch from hook. [6 sts] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts] Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts] Rounds 6-16 Continue in same fashion, increasing by 6 sts evenly each round until there are 96 sts. Rounds 17-28 Dc in each st around, do not fasten off after Round 28. For a more classic baseball cap style, repeat Round 28 two times more.
PEAK Row 29 Working in front loops only: ch1 (does not count as st throughout), ss in 52 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
Go wild with multicoloured Patons Fab DK Fruity for a cap with a striking appearance.
next 3 sts, ch1, dc in same st, (from this point start working over wire, once you have done the next st twist wire end around itself so it is attached to work), dc in next 9 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts, turn. [34 sts] Stretch out the stitches just made so wire and crochet sit naturally and aren’t bunched up. At the end of each row bend wire towards underside of Peak so it is ready to be worked over on next row. As you progress remember to stretch work at end of each row. You may get your wire turns sticking out a bit, try to keep this to a minimum but you will cover over these on the last row. Rows 30-32 Ch1, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [34 sts] Row 33 Ch1, dc in first st, skip next st, dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog, skip next st, dc in last st, turn. [32 sts] Rows 34-36 Ch1, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [32 sts] Row 37 Ch1, dc in first st, skip next st, dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog, skip next st, dc in last st, turn. [30 sts] Rows 38-40 Ch1, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [30 sts] Row 41 Ch1, dc in first st, skip next st, dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, skip next st, dc in last st, turn. [28 sts] Row 42 Ch1, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc in
RUD BOY CAP next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn. [28 sts]
You can arch the peak or keep it straight if you prefer the traditional cap style.
EDGING ROW Work your edging stitches over any exposed bits of wire to cover them and hold them in place. Row 43 Repeat Row 42 but do not turn at end, cut wire leaving 3cm at end and work over the end with the following sts; working into row ends, 3dc in next st, dc in next 12 sts, dc in next available st of Row 16 of Crown and in next 63 sts around (when you get to the last 3 sts dc into same place as ss from Row 17), working evenly up unworked side of Peak, dc in next 12 sts, 3dc in next st, ss to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK DOUBLE CROCHET IN A SPIRAL
1 Make a foundation ring (see p89) and work the t-ch (1ch for dc). Now work 12 dc stitches into the ring, but do not join the last stitch and first stitch of this first round with a slip stitch.
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2 Instead, work the first dc stitch of the second round into the first stitch of the first round. To do this, insert the hook into the stitch, yrh, pull yarn through, yrh and pull the yarn through both loops.
3 You’ll now be working in a spiral. Continue to work more rounds of dc stitches in a spiral, according to your pattern instructions.
4 On the last round, after you’ve worked the last dc stitch, you’ll need to finish off the spiral with a slip stitch for a neat edge: insert the hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull through both loops.
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11-13th May 2018, Ragley Hall, Warwickshire 22nd-24th June 2018, Bowood House, Wiltshire The Handmade Fair is back this summer with not one, but two Fairs! With hundreds of sessions to choose from, book today and bag your spot on a hands-on workshop...
Skills Workshops
mash-ups
The Handmade Fair’s Skills Workshops are the best way to nurture your creativity and learn new skills. This year’s sessions include must-try crafts such as macramé, hoop screen printing, willow weaving, calligraphy and jewellery making. Led by some of the best makers across the country, you’ll take away a finished project from every workshop.
Call us biased, but the Mollie Makes Mash-Ups are our favourite event of the day! Our sister magazine Mollie Makes challenges two craft celebs to upcycle a mystery item on stage in the Super Theatre, against each other and against the clock. You’ll be inspired and entertained by designer-makers such as Katie Jones, Christine Leech and Chloe Hardisty.
EXCLUSIVE TICKET OFFER! Book your tickets at www.thehandmadefair.com using code CROCHET3 for your special offer* Q FULL EXPERIENCE TICKET
Grand Makes
don’t miss..
There’s nothing better than crafting with fellow enthusiasts, making friends while learning a new skill. In the Grand Make tent, you’ll create something beautiful alongside 200 other like-minded people, and get to take your make home. Sessions include origami, needle felting, making a butterfly brooch and learning the art of Indian block printing.
In between events, you’ll also get to shop from hundreds of the UK’s best makers and sellers in the Shopping Village, and indulge in the foodie delights and drinks on offer in the Artisan Marketplace. Plus, don’t forget to pay a visit to the Mollie Makes café!
super Theatre Super Theatre sessions are your chance to find out the latest craft trends, learn insider secrets from top experts, and see first-hand how designer products are made. Kirstie Allsopp, Keith Brymer Jones and Edith Bowman will be hosting the creative line-up at Ragley Hall, while Kirstie, Liz Earle and Sarah Raven will host at Bowood House. 54 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
STANDARD PRICE £29 SIMPLY CROCHET OFFER £26 + FREE CREATIVE BOOKAZINE WORTH £9.99*
Our most popular ticket, this includes entry to the fair, one Super Theatre session, one Skills Workshop and one Grand Make
Q V IP TICKET STANDARD PRICE £90 SIMPLY CROCHET OFFER £85*
Includes a Full Experience ticket, a goodie bag, access to the VIP lounge, lunch, free-flowing bubbly and more!
You can also choose the option of an Entry Only ticket, which costs £12 when booked in advance.
Plus! CraFt cafÉ
BOOK YOUR TICKETS AT WWW.THEHANDMADEFAIR.COM USING CODE ‘CROCHET3’ OR VIA THE TICKET HOTLINE ON 0871 230 7153** *Booking fees apply, offer applies only to adult VIP and Full Experience tickets. Offer ends 28 April 2018 or when sold. You will receive one of a selection of three Mollie Makes books (RRP £8.99 or £9.99), subject to availability. **Calls cost 13p per minute plus network extras.
Darling duo This cool combo will help your little one shine for days out and playdates in. By Pat Strong.
Baby s t The right jacket and trouser suit will fit any occasion, and that’s the certainly the case with this natty little two-piece. In timeless white trimmed with soft grey, it’s as stylish as it is snug. Fit for a royal baby, perhaps?
EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT
3MM HOOK
NOTES YOU WILL NEED
The Jacket is worked in one piece from the bottom up and the Sleeves are worked flat before being sewn into the armholes.
WYS Bo Peep Luxury Baby 4ply (52% Falkland wool, 48% nylon, 50g/112m), Tooth Fairy (11), Tin Man (305) See table for yarn amounts and measurements Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Elastic, 4.5mm wide, approx 50cm (20in) for trousers Q Stitch markers Q 3 buttons, 6mm diam For yarn stockists contact WY Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com Q
The Tin Man edging adds a warm contrast to the soft white of the Tooth Fairy yarn.
JACKET
HEM DETAIL Using Tooth Fairy, ch119 (129: 135). Row 1 (RS) 2htr in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch count as st), *skip 1 ch, 2htr in next ch; repeat from * across, turn. [119 (129: 135) htr] Row 2 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), 2htr in each sp between htr groups across to beg ch-2, 2htr in sp before beg ch-2, turn. [119 (129: 135) htr] Repeat Row 2 until work measures 5 (6: 7) cm.
TENSION 25 sts and 19 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using a 3mm hook
BODY Row 1 Ch2, htr in each htr across, turn. [119 (129: 135) htr] Repeat Row 2 until work measures 10 (11: 12) cm, ending on a WS row.
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
Repeat Row 2 until work measures 17.5 (19.5: 20.5) cm from hem ending at outer edge of work.
NECK SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Working from the edge, ss in first 9 (10: 10) sts, ch2, htr in each htr across, turn. [21 (23: 24) htr] Row 2 Ch2, htr in each htr across to last st, turn leaving last st unworked. [20 (22: 23) htr] Row 3 Ch2, skip next st, htr in each htr across, turn. [19 (21: 22) htr] Repeat Rows 2-3 once more, fasten off. [17 (19: 20) htr]
BACK DIVIDING FOR FRONTS AND BACK FIRST FRONT
b
Row 1 Ch2, htr in next 28 (31: 32) htr, turn. [29 (32: 33) htr] Row 2 Ch2, htr in each htr across, turn.
SIZE
Rejoin yarn in next unworked st of last row of Body. Row 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in next 59 (63: 67) htr, turn. [60 (64: 68) htr] Row 2 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each htr
0-3 months
3-6 months
6-12 months
a
cm
41-43
44-46
47-49
in
16¼-17
17¼-18
18½-19¼
cm
48
52
54
in
19
20½
21¼
cm
20
22
23.5
in
7¾
8¾
9¼
ACTUAL HIPS
cm
50
54
57
in
19¾
21¼
22½
TROUSER LENGTH
cm
22
25
28
in
8¾
10
11
TO FIT CHEST
d
ACTUAL CHEST (APPROX) c
Jacket Width a: 24 (26: 28)cm 9½ (10¼: 10½)in Jacket Length b: 20 (22: 23.5)cm 7¾ (8¾: 9¼)in Trouser Length c: 22 (25: 28)cm 8¾ (10: 11)in Trouser Width d: 25 (27: 28.5)cm 10 (10¾: 11¼)in Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
JACKET LENGTH
YARN – TOOTH FAIRY
50g
3
4
4
YARN – TIN MAN
50g
1
1
1
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 57
Baby s t across, turn. Repeat Row 2 until work measures 1 row less than First Front.
NECK SHAPING FIRST SIDE Row 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in next 17 (18: 20) htr, fasten off. [18 (19: 21) htr]
NECK SHAPING SECOND SIDE Row 1 Skip next 24 (26: 26) sts of last row of Back, rejoin yarn in next st, ch2, htr in each st across, fasten off. [18 (19: 21) htr]
edge to correspond with each button.
EDGING With RS facing, join Tin Can in first st to work around hem, dc in each st around hem, sides and neckline working 3dc into each corner and skipping sts where appropriate around the neckline to allow for the curve. When you reach a st marker, create a buttonhole by working a ch-6 loop between 2 dcs, ss to first st to join. Fasten off. Repeat edging on Sleeve cuffs.
SECOND FRONT Rejoin yarn in next unworked st of last row of Body. Row 1 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. [30 (33: 34) htr] Row 2 Ch2, htr in each htr across, turn. Repeat Row 2 until work measures 17.5 (19.5: 20.5) cm from hem and matches First Front before Neck Shaping.
NECK SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ch2, htr in next 21 (23: 24) htr, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [22 (24: 25) htr] Row 2 Ch2, skip next st, htr in each htr across, turn. [21 (23: 24) htr] Row 3 Ch2, htr in each htr across to last st, turn leaving last st unworked. [20 (22: 23) htr] Repeat Rows 2-3 once more, fasten off. [18 (20: 21) htr]
TROUSERS
TROUSER LEG (MAKE 2) HEM DETAIL Ch53 (57: 61). Work as Hem Detail of Jacket until work measures 5 (6: 7) cm [53 (57: 61) htr]
LOWER LEG Row 1 Ch2, htr in each htr across, turn. [53 (57: 61) htr] Row 2 Ch2, htr in same st, htr in each htr across to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [55 (59: 63) htr] Repeat Rows 1-2 four times more. [63 (67: 71) sts] Repeat Row 1 until work measures 11 (12.5: 14) cm, do not fasten off. PM at each end of last row worked.
UPPER LEG Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in
each htr across to last 2 sts, htr2tog, turn. [61 (65: 69) sts] Rows 2-5 Repeat Row 1 four times more. [53 (57: 61) sts] Row 6 Ch2, htr in each htr across, turn. Repeat Row 6 until work measures 21 (24: 27) cm, fasten off.
ELASTIC CASING Row 1 With RS facing, join Tin Can in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st across, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [53 (57: 61) sts] Repeat Row 2 until Casing measures approx 1.5cm or waist elastic can be encased once folded. TO MAKE UP Fold trouser legs in half, lengthways, and sew leg seams to markers. Sew front and back seams. Fold down casing inside the trousers and sew into place leaving a gap to insert the elastic. Insert elastic into casing, sew the ends of the elastic together so that they are barely under tension without ruching the waistband. Sew opening of Casing closed and weave in ends.
EDGING With RS facing, join Tin Can in first st to work around hem of trouser legs, dc in each st around hem, ss to first st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
HEM DETAIL Ch37 (39: 41). Work as Hem Detail of Jacket until work measures 5 (6: 7) cm. [37 (39: 41) sts]
ARM Row 1 Ch2, htr in each htr across, turn. [37 (39: 41) htr] Row 2 Ch2, htr in same st, htr in each htr across to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [39 (41: 43) htr] Repeat Rows 1-2 three (four: four) times more. [45 (49: 51) sts] Repeat Row 1 until work measures 20 (23: 26) cm, fasten off. TO MAKE UP Sew shoulder seams. Fold Sleeve in half and match mid point to shoulder seam. Sew shoulder seam, sleeve seam and side seam. Position buttons on chosen side of Front, using image as a guide, and sew into place. Place a st marker on opposite front 58 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
The buttons and contrasting trim add a smart touch to this cosy little jacket.
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win
hook to hook
Beautiful bunting
We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?
Kate Rowell “The inspiration for my bunting came from my love of granny clusters, they are my go-to crochet stitch! The mercerised DK cotton felt really delicate to work with, so I designed some bunting which would suit it. I usually work with bright pinks and rainbow colours so these primary colours made a pleasant change and really inspired me to use more red in my crochet designs.”You can ind Kate’s crochet designs on Instagram @jellybean_junction or on her website www.jellybeanjunction.co.uk
Rebecca Armstrong “Balloons say ‘party’, to me, and these days we know we really need to cut down on waste – and so the idea of eco-friendly, reusable balloon bunting was born. I set to experimenting with diferent increases and decreases and soon came up with a workable design. The cotton yarn makes the bunting hard-wearing so you’ll be able to keep it for many years and many occasions.” Find more of Rebecca’s patterns at www.ravelry.com/ designers/rebecca-armstrong-2
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hook to hook
Psst Celebrate with cla ic red, white and blue
From left: each flag starts from the bottom up, culminating in the tidy rows of treble stitch; Kate’s bunting turned out just as she imagined it (though tassels were originally part of the plan); join the triangles together with the white ‘rope’, using a combination of dc and ch stitches.
Celebration Bunting There’s something about primary colours and bunting that works so well together. Taking a basic flag bunting design and adding this cute, lacy pattern will give you fab bunting for any occasion. Street party, anyone? By Kate Rowell. Q Patons 100% Cotton DK (100% cotton, 100g/210m), 1 ball of each: Red (2115), Royal (2751), White (2691), Vanilla (2745) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
MEASUREMENTS Each Flag measures approx 10x15cm (4x6in)
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92 FLAG Ch4. Row 1 2dtr into the 4th chain from the hook, turn. Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in st at base of ch-3, ch1, skip next st, 2tr in last stitch, turn. Row 3 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1 throughout), 3tr in ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next st, tr in last st, turn. Row 4 Ch3, 2tr in next ch-1 sp, ch2, skip 3 60 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
repeat from * until you have joined all triangles, ch50. Fasten off.
tr, 2tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in last st, turn. Row 5 Ch4, skip next 2 tr, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in ch-2 sp, ch1, skip next 2 tr, tr in last st, turn. Row 6 Ch3, 2tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next 3 tr, 3tr in ch-2 sp, ch1, skip next 3 tr, 2tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in last st, turn. Row 7 Ch4, skip next 2 tr, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch2, skip next 3 tr, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next 2 tr, tr in last st, turn. Row 8 Ch3, 2tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next 3 tr, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch-2 sp, ch1, skip next 3 tr, 2tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in last st, turn. Row 9 Ch4, skip next 2 tr, 3tr in ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next 3 tr, 3tr in ch-2 sp, ch1, skip next 3 tr, 3tr in ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next 2 tr, tr in last st, turn. Row 10 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st and ch-sp across to end, turn. [16 sts] Row 11 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch-3, tr across to end, turn. [17 sts] Rows 12-14 Repeat Row 11 three times more, fasten off. [20 sts] Weave in ends and block lightly.
For a full list, see page 92
JOINING FLAGS Using White, ch50. Row 1 Dc in each tr across top of first Flag, *ch3, dc in each tr across top of next Flag;
These Balloons are made from the top down. Leave a longish tail at the beginning to attach the Balloons to the ribbon.
Balloon party What would a party be without balloons? We’re all trying to be environmentally friendly these days, so why not hook up a length (or more) of your own reusable balloon bunting? It’s reusable and will still look good if it rains. Designed by Rebecca Armstrong. Q Patons 100% Cotton DK (100% cotton, 100g/210m), 1 ball of each: Red (2115), Royal (2751), White (2691), Vanilla (2745) Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
MEASUREMENTS Each Balloon measures approx 10x13cm (4x5in)
ABBREVIATIONS NOTES
hook to hook
Clockwise from left: Rebeccaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s balloon shape came from experimenting with increases and decreases when she came up with her design; a chain forms the string of the balloon; the rounded shape means you need to be very neat when attaching it; Rebecca started with a sketch.
BALLOON (MAKE 12) Make 3 each in White, Red, Royal and Vanilla. Leaving a long tail, ch4. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, turn. [3 dc] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 3dc in first dc, dc in next dc, 3dc in last dc, turn. [7 dc] Row 3 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in next st, 2dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in last st, turn. [11 dc] Row 4 Ch1, dc in first st, (2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in next st) twice, turn. [15 dc] Row 5 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 11 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in last st, turn. [17 dc] Row 6 Ch1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 9 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 3 dc, turn. [19 dc] Row 7 Ch1, dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc, turn. [21 dc] Row 8 Ch1, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, turn. [23dc] Rows 9-17 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. [23dc] Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
Row 18 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 19 dc, dc2tog, turn. [21 sts] Row 19 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 20 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 17 dc, dc2tog, turn. [19 sts] Row 21 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 22 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 dc, dc2tog, turn. [17 sts] Row 23 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 24 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 13 dc, dc2tog, turn. [15 sts] Row 25 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 26 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 11 dc, dc2tog, turn. [13 sts] Row 27 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 28 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 9 dc, dc2tog, turn. [11 sts] Row 29 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog, turn. [9 sts] Row 30 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 dc, dc2tog, turn. [7 sts] Row 31 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc2tog, turn. [11 sts] Row 32 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in next dc, dc2tog, turn. [3 sts] Row 33 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 34 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in next st, 2dc in next dc, turn. [5 dc] Row 35 Ch1, 2dc in first dc, dc in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next dc, turn. [7 dc]
Row 36 Ss in first 4dc, ch10 (this forms the string that ties the balloon up). Fasten off. RIBBON Using Red, ch260. Row 1 Ss in next 40 ch (this forms tie), dc in next 180ch, turn leaving next 40 ch unworked (this forms tie). Row 2 Ch1, dc in next 180 dc, fasten off. TO MAKE UP Block the Balloons to dimensions given. Arrange the balloons at equal intervals along the ribbon. Using the starting tail, sew each Balloon in place on the ribbon and weave in ends.
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Psst
Th i i v e atile such a goe with top â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it ev e ythin g!
S v ss top
Feel the warmth This understated vest top from Wendy is an endlessly useful, stylish summer make that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll love to wear.
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S v ss top EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT
4MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Wendy Love It (100% acrylic, 100g/220m) in Navy (5012) See table for yarn amounts and measurements Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists contact TB Ramsdens 01943 872264 www.tbramsden.co.uk Q
TENSION 3 pattern repeats measure 11cm (4¼in) wide by 7cm (2¾in) tall
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
Cool in every sense of the word, this top will go with just about anything. It has a relaxed feel, making it ideal to pullover a tee or under a cardi on breezy evenings. Wendy Love It is great value – you can make the biggest size for under £15! BACK Using a 4mm hook, ch116 (125: 134: 143). Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch5, skip 5 ch, dc in next ch, ch2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * across to last 6 sts, ch5, skip 5 ch, dc in last st, turn. Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in first dc, *6tr in next ch-5 sp, dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * to last ch-5 sp, 6tr in ch-5 sp, dc in last dc, turn. [13 (14: 15: 16) 6-tr groups] Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), *ch3, skip next 2 tr, dc in each of next 2 tr, ch3, skip next 2 tr, tr in next dc; repeat from * across, turn. Row 4 Ch1, dc in first dc, ch5, skip next (ch-3 sp and 2 dc), dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch2, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch5, skip 2 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * across to end, working last dc in top of beg ch-3, turn. Rows 2-4 set pattern. Repeat Rows 2-4 until Back measures 32cm, ending with a Row 4.
The front and back feature the same lacework pattern with variations at the neckline.
FRONT Work as Back to end of Row 6 of armhole shaping. Rows 7-12 Repeat Rows 2-4 of Back twice.
NECKLINE SHAPING FIRST SIDE ARMHOLE SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss in first dc, ss in each ch of ch-5 sp, ss in next dc, ss to next ch-2 sp, ch1, dc in same ch-2 sp, *6tr in next ch-5 sp, dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across ending in last ch-2 sp, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [11 (12: 13: 14) 6-tr groups] Rows 2-3 Work as Rows 3-4 of Back. Row 4 Repeat Row 1 of armhole shaping. [9 (10: 11: 12) 6-tr groups] Rows 5-6 Work as Rows 3-4 of Back. Work Rows 2-4 of Back for 14 (14: 15: 16) cm, fasten off.
SIZE b
TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST (APPROX)
a
Width a: 43 (45.5/46.5: 51: 53.5/56)cm 17 (18/19: 20: 21/22)in Length b: 50.5 (50.5: 51.5: 52.5)cm 20 (20: 20¼: 20¾)in 64 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
LENGTH YARN – NAVY
10
Row 13 (RS) Ch1, dc in first dc, *6tr in next ch-5 sp, dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * twice more, 3tr in ch-5 sp, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [3 (3: 3: 3) 6-tr groups and 1 (1: 1: 1) 3-tr group.] Row 14 Ch1, dc in first st, ch3, skip next 2 tr, tr in next dc, *ch3, skip next 2 tr, dc in each of next 2 tr, ch3, skip next 2 tr, tr in next dc, repeat from * twice more, turn. Row 15 Ch1, dc in first dc, ch5, skip next (ch-3 sp and 2 dc), *dc in next ch-3 sp, ch2, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch5, skip 2 dc; repeat from * once more, skip next ch-3 sp, dc in next tr, turn leaving remaining
12/14
16
18/20
cm
86
91/97
102
107/112
in
34
36/38
40
42/44
cm
95.5
102.5
110
117.5
in
37½
40½
43¼
46¼
cm
50.5
50.5
51.5
52.5
in
20
20
20¼
20¾
100g
4
4
4
5
To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.
s v ss top sts unworked. Work Rows 2-4 of Back until Front measures same as Back, fasten off.
NECKLINE SHAPING SECOND SIDE Rejoin yarn in first st of Row 12 with WS facing to work across row. Work as first side until Front measures same as Back. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP With WS held together, sew Front and Back together at shoulder seams and side seams to armhole shaping.
NECK BORDER Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, rejoin yarn at shoulder seam, ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around the neckline with even number of stitches, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip next st; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around, skipping every 5th or 6th st, ss to first dc to join. Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off.
Shaping the neckline is the key to getting a comfortable fit.
evenly around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off.
HEMLINE BORDER Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, rejoin yarn at side seam, ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around the hemline working 1dc in each ch, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip next st; repeat from * around, ss to first dc to join. Rounds 3-4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc
ARMHOLE EDGINGS Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, rejoin yarn at underarm, ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around the armhole, working 1dc in each ch, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc evenly around, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off.
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO MAKE A TREBLE
1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.
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2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh), and pull the yarn through the stitch only.
3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through the first 2 loops on the hook.
4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through the remaining 2 loops on the hook. Your treble crochet will be complete.
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mb ish an outfit
Fanfare These flamboyant bell-shaped sleeves will add a stylish flourish to any top or shirt. By Bryony Hitchcock.
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mb ish an outfit A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT
3MM HOOK
Big sleeves are still having a moment, which makes these crochet accessories such a trendy touch. Stitch them to the cuffs of a top or blouse, making them to match or give a contrasting edge.
NOTES YOU WILL NEED Bergère de France Merinos 2.5 (100% Merino wool, 50g/225m), 2 balls of Rose Bebe (20038) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Elastic (optional) For yarn stockists contact Bergère de France www.bergeredefrance.co.uk Q
TENSION 30sts and 14 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over alternating rows of back and front treble crochet using a 3mm hook
MEASUREMENTS Small Cuff measures 24cm (9½in) circumference at rib and 25cm (10in) in length
ABBREVIATIONS Picot Ch3, ss in 3rd ch from hook For a full list, see page 92
The expanding pineapple lace is what gives these sleeves their distinctive bell shape. 68 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
The Ribbing is worked back and forth in rows before turning to work the Sleeve in the round following the Chart for rounds. You’ll find the Chart on page 93. RIBBING Ch12. Row 1 Tr in 4th ch from hook and next 8 ch, turn. [10 sts] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in bl of next 8 sts, turn. [10 sts] Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in fl of next 8 sts, turn. [10 sts] Rows 4-33 Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 15 times more. Row 34 Repeat Row 2. Fold to join the first and last rows with a ss seam, do not fasten off. PINEAPPLE LACE Turn work to crochet into row ends. Foundation round (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 3dc in each row end around, ss to first dc to join. [102 sts] The Lace section is worked on the RS. The first st of each new row is worked as ch3 for a tr, or (ch2, tr in next st) for a tr2tog. From Row 6-17, ss across the top of sts in the previous row to reach the next ch-2 sp, to start the new row. From Row 18-26, ss across the top of sts in the previous row to reach the next ch-3 sp, to start the new row. Round 1 (RS) Ch2, tr in next dc (counts as tr2tog), (ch1, skip next dc, tr in next dc) twice, ch1, skip next dc, tr2tog, ch2, skip next 2 dc, tr in each of next 2 dc, ch2, tr in each of next 2 dc, ch2, skip next 2 dc, tr2tog; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join. Round 2 (RS) Ch2, tr in next ch-1 sp (counts as tr2tog), ch1, skip next tr, tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next tr, tr2tog over next ch-1 sp and next tr2tog, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch4, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp, ch2, skip next 2 tr and ch-2 sp, tr2tog over next tr2tog and ch-1 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join. Round 3 (RS) Ch2, tr in next ch-1 sp (counts as tr2tog), ch1, skip next tr, tr2tog
For removable sleeves, stitch some elastic inside the top edge beneath the ribbing.
over next ch-1 sp and next tr2tog, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp, skip next 2 tr and ch-2 sp, ch2, tr2tog over next tr2tog and ch-1 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join. Rounds 4-25 Continue following Pineapple Lace Chart, working each repeat 6 times and reading the Chart from right to left. Round 26 (RS) Ss across to first ch-3 sp, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in same ch-3 sp, *skip next 2 tr2tog, 3tr in next ch-3 sp, ch3, skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr, 3dc in next ch-3 sp, skip next ss, 3dc in next ch-3 sp, (picot, skip next tr, 2dc in next ch-2 sp) 4 times, picot, skip next tr, 3dc in next ch-3 sp, skip next ss, 3dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next tr, ch3, skip next 2 tr, 3tr in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last 3 tr, ss to top of first tr to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Block Sleeves. To wear with any top or blouse, stitch a length of wide elastic inside the cuff, to fit comfortably round your arm just below the elbow. To customise a particular top, sew in place to hang at your desired length.
NEW!
CROCHET COLOUR CLASS
IMPRO YOUR SKIVE LLS
s e n e s s i a r t i n o u n S
every issue and learn how to use it. B n i r u lo y Kat r a co e Br e v o uni c s ng Di .
hUe, shaDe, tone and Tint ‘Hue’ means a colour, and ‘shade’, ‘tone’ and ‘tint’ apply to variations on that colour, adding black, grey or white to achieve specific effects. This info will help you find the right colours and make decisions on choosing colours for projects.
Shade Adding black to the original hue will give a rich, intense appearance.
Tone
Tint
Add grey to the original hue for subtle, sophisticated results.
Adding white to the original hue will make a softer, pastel palette.
Made in association with Yarn and Colors. For stockist information see www.yarnandcolors.com
The colour
Kate Br uning aka @greed yforcolou r
O ange T
COLOUR THEORY Analogous lours like red d yellow sit de-by-side on the olour wheel; omplementary colours sit opposite each other.
he most edible segment on the colour wheel, orange shines vividly. Golden light, vitamin C, glorious free-range eggs, sweet potato, pumpkin, carrots, it’s the signature colour of vitality. While, these days, I’m a pushover for orange cardigans and kitchen utensils, it hasn’t always been so. Perhaps its presence during my 1970s childhood – a time when (and this hurts to write) brown and orange were often paired together – may have had more than a little to do with it. Even back then I knew it was not OK! Orange can be a wonderful and colourful friend. Even though it has an ability to dominate the conversation, it’s equally happy to step back and a take supporting role in a colour scheme. This very reason is why I chose an analogous selection of yarn for this month’s project. In a sherbet palette (pastel with a
Analogous co o t side by side on the colour wheel. In this case, orange is flanked by red-orange and yellow-orange. A complementary colour sits directly opposite a chosen colour on the wheel, offering maximum contrast and vibrancy. Split complementary colours sit either side of a complementary colour and also make for an effective combination. In this case, the split complementary colours are blue-green and blue-violet.
The three colours chosen this month are all tints. They have white added, to lighten them. Clockwise from left: Old Pink, Sunglow, Cantaloupe.
MORE COLOUR SCHEMES TO TRY Kate’s blanket is worked in shades of orange, but you can create an entirely different style by changing the yarn colours. Here are some colour maths to tempt you...
+
Papaya
+
Mustard
+
Pacific Blue
Tropical fruits
=
Moroccan magic
fizzy pizzaz), Papaya, Salmon and Mustard create a bright, in-your-face harmony. Watch out though, they’re so mouthwatering together, like a bowl of sunrise!
COLOUR FACTS: ORANGE Orange was named most sensibly, after the citrus fruit, in the early 16th century. Nestled between red-orange and yellow-orange on the colour wheel, it was often referred to as red (hence red hair) or saffron. Because of its vibrancy, black boxes on planes are actually orange. ‘Realgar’ was the name of an orange paint pigment from ancient to Medieval times. Beta carotene is the orange pigment found in fruit and veggies, and converts to Vitamin A when eaten. Vitamin A (though toxic in high quantities) helps support eye health, so that old saying ‘eat your carrots so you can see in the dark’ has more than a ring of truth to it.
h ow I lovnege has so a this oru ch d epth . m
Lemon
+
Larimar
=
Orange
Get more inspiration from the Yarn and Colors range at www.yarnandcolors.com
ANALOGOUS COLOURS ORANGE + RED
Bl ue pops of colou r are a magnificent contrast to the rich hues of orange.
Du sky evenings can be a mood y mix of deep blues and red -tinged oranges.
Golden sunshine Indulge yourself with a cocktail of orange colours and hook Kate Bruningâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gorgeous blanket.
ORANG B ANK T EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT
4.5MM HOOK
Kate has designed a richly coloured blanket using the colour orange as a base and mixing it with analogous red-based colours. We’re loving the cheerful vibrancy of the geometric shapes – just like a brilliant sunrise.
YOU WILL NEED
NOTES
Yarn and Colors Must-Have (100% cotton, 50g/125m), 12 balls of Papaya (17), 3 balls of each: Mustard (15), Salmon (39) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook For yarn stockists contact Yarn and Colors www.yarnandcolors.com LoveCrochet www.lovecrochet.com
The Blanket is made up of 40 square motifs and 20 triangles crocheted together in a diamond pattern.
Q
MEASUREMENTS Each square motif measures approx 14x14cm (5½x5½in) Blanket measures approx 100x100cm (39x39in)
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
SIMPLY MUST-HAVE YARNS! All the projects in our new Crochet Colour Class series are made using the Yarn and Colors Must-Have range, one of eight ranges the brand now carries. (We love the matching 10g Must-Have minis!) Owner Koen says, “With lots of love and care we have created a colour range of 100 different shades, forming the foundation of Yarn and Colors. All our ranges are based on this colour palette, creating an assortment where not only colours can easily be combined but the different yarns can be effortlessly mixed, too.”
SQUARE Using Mustard, make a magic ring. Row 1 (WS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), 6tr into ring, turn. [7 tr] Row 2 (RS) Ch3, 2tr into each st across, turn. [13 tr] Row 3 Ch3, (tr in next st, 2tr in next st) 6 times, turn. [19 tr] Row 4 Ch3, (tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st) 6 times, turn. [25 tr] Fasten off. Row 5 Join Salmon in first st, ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr same st, dtr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, dtr in each of next 2 sts, ch2, dtr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, htr in next st, tr in each of next 2 sts, dtr in each of next 3 sts, turn. [26 sts, 1 ch-sp] Row 6 (RS) Ch3, 2tr in same st, tr in each of next 12 st, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each of next 12 st, 3tr in last st, do not turn. [34 sts, 1 ch-sp] Fasten off. Rotate to work into row ends. Row 7 (RS) Join Papaya in first row end, ch1, 2dc in first row end, 3dc in next row end, 2dc in next row end, (3dc into next row end) 6 times, 2dc in next row end, 3dc in next row end, 2dc in last row end, turn. [32 sts] Row 8 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc2tog, dc in each st across to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [30 sts] Rows 9-21 Repeat Row 8. [4 sts] Row 22 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc2tog twice, turn. [2 sts] Row 23 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), dc2tog, do not turn.
BORDER Next round Ch1 (does not count as st), work 16 dc into each edge of the square and (dc, ch2, dc) in each corner, ss to first dc to join. [72 dc and 4 ch-2 sps] 72 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
The blanket is a mix of geometric shapes: squares, circles and triangles.
TRIANGLE Using Papaya, ch33. Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [32 dc] Rows 2-17 Repeat Rows 8-23 of Square.
BORDER Next round Ch1 (does not count as st), work 16 dc into each short edge of the triangle, 30dc along the long edge and (dc, ch2, dc) in each corner, ss to first dc to join. [68dc and 3 ch-2 sps] TO MAKE UP Using the image as a guide and with the sun motif at the top of each square, join the squares and triangles together using dc seams on the RS. BLANKET BORDER Once all Squares and Triangles are seamed you will have 2 ch-2 sps at each corner of the Blanket and 3 ch-2 sps at each seam along the edges of the Blanket. Join Papaya in any st along the edge of the Blanket, ch2 (counts as htr), htr in each st around, working 3htr in each ch-2 sp at the Blanket corners and 2htr into each of the 3 ch-2 sps at the seams, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join.
C
het
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YARN REVIEWS
n y o a t r t ns o C
ez y yarns to help you plan your summ e r b d n er pro g ht a i r jects b . Six SASSY SUNBURST Ch4, join with ss to first ch to join into a ring. ROUND 1 Ch3 (counts as treble), 11tr in ring, join with ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [12tr] ROUND 2 *Ss in next st, ch5, dc in second ch from hook, (ch3, dc in second ch of 3ch), tr in 3rd ch of 5ch, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, ss in same place as previous ss, ss in next st* repeat 6 times. FASTEN OFF and weave in ends.
Pe fect motif fo summe bunting!
Yarn r vi ws Scheepjes softfun
Rowan Summerlite 4ply
WEIGHT DK CONTENT 60% cotton, 40% acrylic BALL 50g/140m HOOK 4mm RRP £3.09
WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 100% cotton BALL 100g/175m HOOK 3mm RRP £3.99
With such a descriptive name, you won’t be surprised to hear that this yarn is soft... and fun! Whereas lots of cotton yarns can create quite firm stitches, squidgy Softfun has a beautiful bounce that makes it a pleasure to work with. The yarn makes well-defined stitches, but also
remains surprisingly light considering it’s a DK yarn which borders on the chunky side. The result is a softly draping fabric. There are a huge 63 shades to choose from, so there really is one for everybody. Machine wash at 30°. www.scheepjes.com/en
With two new shades added to the existing 23 colours, this 100% cotton is certainly a favourite for those special projects. It’s a good reliable yarn that has a uniform twist, which sits perfectly in the middle: not too tight and not too loose. This not only means
RICO Design Ricorumi
Wendy anaphora
WEIGHT DK CONTENT 100% cotton BALL 25g/57.5m HOOK 4mm RRP £1.09
WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 50% cotton, 50% acrylic BALL 150g/600m HOOK 3mm RRP £9.99
Looking to up your amigurumi game? Then this is the yarn you need! Available in a whopping 60-colour range, you’re covered for whatever sort of creature you’ve got in mind. The super-cute balls may look small, but with over 50 metres in each one, there’s more than enough
for most small toys, especially if you’re mixing colours. What makes it perfect for amigurumi is the firmness of the final fabric, which is excellent for retaining its shape, as well as giving crisp and clearly-defined stitches. Machine washable at 30°. www.rico-design.de/en/home
The Anaphora yarn cake is unlike any cotton you’ve used before. It’s a 4ply yarn with an almost non-existent twist, and one of the strands is in a different colour to the others. Although this means you need to take a little extra care when hooking it up to make sure it
it remains relaxed and doesn’t split easily, but it also has a lovely drape and is remarkably airy when worked up, making it perfect for summer shawls and tops. Machine wash at 40° and iron on a medium heat. www.knitrowan.com 01484 950630
doesn’t split, it also means that you get a very unique speckled effect across the four shades, which when combined with the subtle colour graduation makes it a yarn packed full of character. Gentle wash at 30°. www.tbramsden.co.uk 01943 872264
SUBlime isla
bergère de france berlingo
WEIGHT DK CONTENT 50% cotton, 50% bamboo-sourced viscose SKEIN 100g/220m HOOK 4mm RRP £8.50
WEIGHT DK CONTENT 71% cotton, 24% polyester, 5% metallic polyester BALL 50g/165m HOOK 4mm RRP £3.95
There’s something special about Sublime’s Isla. Maybe it’s the sumptuous deep colours, maybe it’s the bamboo-sourced viscose, but what we know for sure is that it’s a beautiful yarn to work with. Its springy texture has a silky, soft feel that almost slides through your fingers, Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
making it perfect for summer garments. Available in 10 shades, with romantic names such as Love Bird and Rose Garden, it’s obvious that it’s not just us that think it’s dreamy! Machine wash at 40°. www.sublimeyarns.com 01924 369666
New this season, Berlingo gives your cotton an extra bit of glam. With metallic strands running through the nine different shades of yarn as well as the complementary tones of cotton, it’s really a yarn that is that little bit special. It produces a fabulous colour effect that
speckles and shines, and at the same time has a charming consistency. The fabric it produces has a featherweight quality to it, but also retains an element of sturdiness that you’d expect from a cotton yarn. Machine washable at 30°. www.bergeredefrance.co.uk WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 75
Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker
DOUBLE TAP
SNUGGLE BUNNY W
! ER N IN
ON THE TRAIL
W Lucy Naylor wasted no time in getting our baby blanket from issue 68 all finished – nine cute little bunny bottoms hooked up in a flash! We’re loving the soft, muted shades Lucy chose to stitch her blanket in, too.
M
ichelle Wiles has been busy hooking up issue 66’s trailblazer shawl, modelled by her daughter Megan. Designed by our very own @crochetdeli, aka Sara, this pretty shawl is made using just one ball of Scheepjes Whirl. Michelle went for the Liquorice Yumyum shade. Yummy indeed!
W
! ER N IN
HarRy PotTer RemAke Look at the wizard redesign @alittlechilly, aka Jane, made to one of our projects featured in issue 59. The original pattern was a filet skull jumper designed by Pony McTate. Jane has cleverly personalised it by swapping out the skull design for her own Harry Potter Deathly Hallows symbol. You made a great job of it Jane – go to the top of the class for your crochet wand skills.
We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker. SHORT ‘N’ SWEET @indiblue_makes is absolutely rocking the crocheted dungas she made using Fran Morgan’s adaptation of a 1970s Sirdar pattern in our issue 59. Now all we need is a little bit of sunshine! FRILL SEEKERS Ooh, nice colours! @thecatandwool has made our ruffle socks from issue 68 in this gorgeous pink and blue combo. Steve the cat already has his own pair of white socks on… MONSTER MAKE @craftsybianca has been putting her amigurumi skills to good use, making our mini monster, Mr Blue, designed by @diyfluffies for issue 68. We’re loving this shot of him guarding his own fleecy blanket!
THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning one of three great hooky prizes next issue! Show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 19 April 2018. For all terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules
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win
@SIMPLYCROCHET
AND RELAX…
Joanna Beswetherick aka @butterfly. bobbins found working on our stripy Fibonacci blanket from issue 67 turned out to be just what she needed. She said, “After a sleepless night with my youngest being sick, I’m grateful to be working on a relaxing pattern.” She was making the blanket for her colleague’s baby and chose some lovely neutral colours. Crocheting the repetitive stripes of a blanket is definitely a great way to relax. It’s lovely to see your work in progress, @butterfly.bobbins – looking good.
! NER N I W
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Tina West created her own version of Kate Alinari’s Bougainvillea shawl from issue 65’s Hook to Hook, using King Cole Riot in Autumn. Stunning to wear at any time of year!
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Berry beauty
Hook an efortlessly cool look with this design by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.
ACY SHAW A BIT TRICKY LACE WEIGHT
3.5MM HOOK
YOU WILL NEED Q Manos del Uruguay Marina,
(100% Merino wool, 100g/800m), 1 skein of Sangre (6422) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook For yarn stockists contact Tangled Yarn www.tangled-yarn.co.uk
TENSION 12 rows and 15 sts to measure 10x10cm (4x4in)
MEASUREMENTS Shawl measure approx 180x63cm (71x25in)
ABBREVIATIONS 2-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook. 2-tr cluster shell (2-tr cluster, ch1, 2-tr cluster) in same st Picot Ch3, ss in 3rd ch from hook For a full list, see page 92
The treble stitch panels give a floaty feel. Take the time to block the shawl to open up the lace. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com
Using wonderfully soft kettle dyed yarn, each skein signed by the artisan, this shawl has a real Latin American feel to it. The design requires just one skein, so you can create a stunning accessory for under ÂŁ20. SHAWL Make a magic loop. Row 1 Ch3 counts as tr), 11tr in loop, turn. [12 tr] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in same st, tr in each st across to last st, 2tr in last st, turn. [14 tr] Row 3 Repeat Row 2. [16 tr] Row 4 Ch3, tr in same st, (2-tr cluster in next st, ch1, 2-tr cluster in next st, ch3, 2tr in each of next 2 sts, ch3) 3 times, 2-tr cluster in next st, ch1, 2-tr cluster in next st, ch3, 2tr in last st, turn. [16 tr, 8 2-tr clusters] Row 5 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, (2-tr cluster shell in next ch-1 sp, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, tr in each of next 4 tr, ch3, skip ch-3 sp) 3 times, 2-tr cluster shell in next ch-1 sp, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [16 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 6 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, (2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in each of next 2 tr, 2tr in next tr, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2) 3 times, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [22 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 7 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, *2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, skip (ch-2 sp, dc, ch-2 sp), tr in each tr across to next ch-sp, ch3, skip (ch-2 sp, dc, ch-2 sp); repeat from * twice more, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [22 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 8 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, (2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, skip ch-sp, 2tr in next tr, tr in each tr across to last tr before ch-3 sp, 2tr in next tr, ch3, skip ch-sp) 3 times, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [28 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 9 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, (2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2, tr in each tr to next ch-3 sp, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2) 3 times, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [28 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells]
Row 10 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, *2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, skip (ch-2 sp, dc, ch-2 sp), 2tr in next tr, tr in each tr across to last tr before ch-3 sp, 2tr in next tr, ch3, skip (ch-2 sp, dc, ch-2 sp); repeat from * twice more, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [34 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 11 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, (2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, skip ch-sp, tr in each tr across to next ch-sp, ch3, skip ch-sp) 3 times, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [34 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 12 Ch3, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, (2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2, 2 tr in next tr, tr in each tr across to last tr before ch-3 sp, 2tr in next tr, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2) 3 times, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [40 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Rows 13-60 Repeat Rows 7-12, 8 times. [184 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells at end of Row 60] Row 61 Repeat Row 7. [184 tr, 4 2-tr cluster shells] Row 62 Ch3, tr in next tr, ch3, skip ch-3 sp, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, *tr in next tr, ch1, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in next st, (ch1, skip next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch1, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in next st) 9 times, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, ch3, skip next ch-3 sp; repeat from * twice more, tr in each of last 2 sts, turn. [30 shells] Row 63 Ch3, tr in next tr, ch3, skip ch-3 sp, 2-tr cluster shell in ch-1 sp of next 2-tr cluster shell, *ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2, dc in next tr, (ch3, (dc, picot dc) in centre tr of next 5-tr group, ch3, dc in next dc) 10 times, ch2, dc around ch-3 sps from previous 2 rows, ch2, 2-tr cluster shell in next 2-tr cluster shell, repeat from * twice more, ch3, tr in each of last 2 sts. [30 picots] Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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p o h s k Wor u the we show yo Eve y i ue to make you’ll need e u iq n ch te home. gs fo you in th l fu ti u bea
Sleeve styles
WE TAKE AN IN-DEPTH LOOK AT THREE
BASIC GARMENT SHAPES.
Have you ever wondered about how garments are constructed? The area where the sleeves meet the armholes of the back and front(s) can be a complicated marvel! If words like ‘dropped-shoulder’ and ‘raglan’ fill you with dread, don’t worry – we’ve put together this guide to explain three main sleeve styles and how they’re constructed. One of the best garment types for beginners is a dropped shoulder construction, which you can practise by making our mini striped jumper on page 83.
StripY jumpEr, p83
set-in sleeves With this type of sleeve you can get a perfect it. Garments with set-in sleeves usually create the best possible fit. You’ll need to carefully compare your measurements with the garment’s size, though, particularly the bust, the armhole depth and the ‘cross-back width’ (the distance across the back between the shoulders). A set-in sleeve has a sleeve cap (at the top, shoulder part of the sleeve) that’s shaped like
a bell – this outside edge of the sleeve cap will be approximately the same length as the armhole circumference. On the back and front(s), the armhole shaping will have a straight indent at the underarm, a curved section of decreasing (to make the width of the back or front match the cross-back width), and a straight portion that extends up to the shoulder seam at the top.
Bell-shaped sleeve cap
Curved armhole
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Psst
raglan and yoke These types of sleeves are best for loosely itting garments. It’s easy to recognise a garment with raglan construction – there will be distinctive diagonal lines running from the armholes to the neckline, creating an upside-down V-shape at the back and front(s). These diagonal lines are usually created by the seam that joins the sleeves to the back and front(s). A raglan sleeve has a cap with diagonal sides forming an upside-down V shape, with the top of the sleeve often forming part of the neckline. A raglan garment is usually worked from the top down, and the top neckline is ideally suited to working in the round. When working in the round, the raglan diagonal lines are created with shaping
When se win yo u te n g sea m , keep i o n l o o e n o n e it h e t oo too tigh t!
stitches (increases or decreases). In the round, you’ll need to ‘divide’ the work once you reach the armholes and then continue on the body only in the round. You can then work the sleeves directly onto the armholes later. In crochet, a ‘seamless yoke’ type of construction is very similar to a raglan worked in the round, but the shaping stitches of a ‘seamless yoke’ will be distributed evenly around instead of concentrated into diagonal lines. For both types of construction, it’s best to stick to garments that are a loose fit because it’s difficult to get the shaping precise enough for the different contours of the upper body.
raglan Straight diagonal seams or shaping
yoke Seamless yoke with even shaping
Ease and Fit The ‘roominess’ found in a garment is known as the amount of ease. To be more precise, it’s the difference between the measurement of the body that you are fitting (yours or someone else’s body), and the measurement of the actual garment. If the measurement around the bust of your garment (the width of the
front plus the width of the back) is bigger than your body’s bust measurement, then it is said to have positive ease. If the measurement around the bust of your garment (the width of the front plus the width of the back) is smaller than your body’s bust measurement, then it is said to have negative ease. Most garments need positive ease so that you can get them on! Occasionally, you’ll see a garment with negative ease and this will need to stretch to fit your body.
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hop
Works
Dropped-Shoulder Construction This simple design is great for loose styles of garment. The simplest type of sleeved garment construction is the dropped shoulder. The back and front(s) can be as simple as two rectangles with little or no shaping at the armholes, which are sewn together leaving openings at the bottom, the neck and the armholes. The sleeves can also just be as simple as two rectangles sewn onto each armhole opening, although it’s more common to taper the sleeves towards the wrists, with or without a cuff.
The sleeve on a dropped-shoulder garment has a straight sleeve cap so there’s no shaping at the top of the sleeve. That means the width of the sleeve top will be twice the armhole depth. To fit the sleeve, just fold it in half and join it directly to the side seam of the back and front(s). A dropped-shoulder garment is best suited to loose, casual styles due to the nature of the fit – there isn’t much (or any) shaping in the armhole, so there needs to be plenty of room here to give your arms freedom of movement.
Straight sleeve cap
modified Dropped-Shoulder A bit of shaping at the armholes can give a better it.
Straight portion to it into indent
Indent at underarm
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on a modified dropped-shoulder garment will have a very simple sleeve cap, with a straight portion at the top of the sleeve – the depth of this cap will be at least the same size as the indent at the underarm. When you sew the sleeve cap into the armhole, the top corner of each side of the sleeve will fit into the angle created by the indent. The width of the top of the sleeve will still be twice the armhole depth.
Written by Cara Medus and Becky Skuse
For a dropped shoulder with a slightly better fit (often a more comfortable one), you can introduce a bit of shaping to the armholes with an indent at the base of each armhole. Our project on p83 uses this type of construction. This shaping means that the shoulders will be slightly narrower than the bust, which creates a better fit on most people. The sleeve
stripy jump r
Bear necessities Practise making a dropped-shoulder garment on this pint-sized stripy jumper, designed by Cara Medus.
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stripy jump r EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT
4MM HOOK
Designer Cara Medus says: “To practise what you’ve learnt in the technical feature, here’s a half-sized version of a UK size 14, so the proportions will be exactly the same as if you were making a full-sized jumper, but with less work!”
YOU WILL NEED
NOTES
Scheepjes Merino Soft (50% wool, 25% microfibre, 25% acrylic, 50g/105m), 2 balls of each: Raphael (602), Mondrian (611)) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en
Always change colour in the last yrh of the previous stitch.
Q
TENSION 18 sts and 13 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over htr with a 4mm hook
ABBREVIATIONS fdc (Foundation double crochet) Work as a standard dc stitch, adding ch1 before last yrh of dc. *(Dc in ch-1 of previous st, adding ch1 before last yrh of dc), repeat until you have the number of fdc stated For a full list, see page 92
FRONT AND BACK (MAKE 2) Row 1 (RS) With Mondrian, ch2 and work a total of 48fdc beginning the first fdc in the second ch from the hook, turn. [48 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn, change to Raphael. Row 3 Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), htr in st at base of ch and in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Repeat Row 3 in Raphael. Change to Mondrian. Rows 5-29 Continue working in rows as Row 3, working 2 rows of Mondrian and 2 rows of Raphael throughout. Row 30 Continuing in patt as set, ss into each of first 4 sts, ch2, htr in st at base of ch and in each st to last 3 sts, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [42 sts] Rows 31-43 Cont in patt as set on these 42 sts. Row 44 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, fasten off. SLEEVES (MAKE 2) Row 1 (RS) With Mondrian, ch2 and work a total of 22fdc beginning the first fdc in the second ch from the hook. [22 sts]
When sewing on the sleeve, use the same colour yarn as your last row.
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Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st to end, turn, change to Raphael. Row 3 Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), htr in st at base of ch and in each st to end, turn. Row 4 Repeat Row 3 in Raphael. Change to Mondrian. Row 5 (Increase Row) Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), 2htr in st at base of ch, htr in each st to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [24 sts] Rows 6-29 Continue working in patt as set, in htr with 2 rows of each colour, and at the same time working an increase row on the third row and every following third row until there are 40 sts. Rows 30-34 Cont in patt as set on these 40 sts, fasten off. TO MAKE UP Sew the Front and Back together at the shoulder seams, joining 11 sts on each side and leaving 20 sts open in the centre for the neck opening. Fold each Sleeve in half lengthways to find the centre top, and align this with the shoulder seam on the Front and Back. Sew the Sleeve to the Front and Back along the top. Repeat for the other Sleeve. Align Front and Back and sew the side and sleeve seams.
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Crochet essentials Over the next few pages, you’ll ind simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK
HOLDING THE YARN
Try these methods and see which works best.
Even tension results in even stitches.
PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.
KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.
METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.
METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.
3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.
4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.
MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.
1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.
2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.
CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.
How to count chains
9
1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.
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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.
3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.
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1
SLIP STITCH (ss)
WORKING IN ROWS
This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.
Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.
1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.
2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.
1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.
2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.
DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.
1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.
2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.
4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.
HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.
1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).
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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).
4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.
YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.
1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.
2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.
DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.
TURNING CHAIN (t-ch) For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain.
3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.
4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.
TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2
loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.
How to count stitches Check your work is correct.
In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The
table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.
STITCH
Add to foundation chain before starting row
Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)
For turning chain (counts as first st)
Double crochet
1 ch
1 ch*
1 ch*
Half treble
1 ch
2 ch
2 ch
Treble
2 ch
3 ch
3 ch
Double treble
3 ch
4 ch
4 ch
Triple treble
4 ch
5 ch
5 ch
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Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
7
8
7
9
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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR
INCREASING AND DECREASING
Create stripes and other colour effects.
Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.
1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.
2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.
INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.
DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.
SEWING SEAMS You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.
1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.
2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.
How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.
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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.
4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.
YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING
WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING
Create a foundation ring for working in the round.
To make circles, tubes and other shapes.
1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…
2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.
1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.
2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.
3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).
4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).
MAGIC LOOP An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn
Tail end
1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.
2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.
JOINING ROUNDS Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.
Rounds or spirals
1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.
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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.
3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.
Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.
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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com
Check which technique you need to use.
Abbreviations across approx beg bl BPtr
ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 2-tr cl
cont dc dc2tog
dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FPtr
to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr
Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog
ttr WS yrh *
()
half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed
HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 92 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM
UK
METRIC
US
14
2mm
–
13
2.25mm
B/1
12
2.5mm
–
–
2.75mm
C/2
11
3mm
–
10
3.25mm
D/3
9
3.5mm
E/4
–
3.75mm
F/5
8
4mm
G/6
7
4.5mm
7
6
5mm
H/8
5
5.5mm
I/9
4
6mm
J/10
3
6.5mm
K/10½
2
7mm
–
0
8mm
L/11
00
9mm
M/13
000
10mm
N/15
Which hook do I use? Hook size
UK yarn weight
2.5-3.5mm hook
4ply yarn
3.5-4.5mm hook
double knitting yarn
5-6mm hook
aran yarn
7mm and bigger
chunky yarn
UK/US conversions UK
US
chain
ch
chain
ch
slip stitch
ss
slip stitch
ss
double crochet
dc
single crochet
sc
half treble
htr
half double
hdc
treble
tr
double
dc
double treble
dtr
treble
tr
triple treble
ttr
double treble
dtr
CHARTS
Charts & Diagrams Here is the chart youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to make the lacy bell sleeves in this issue. Row 26
Bell sleeves, page 67
Row 25
Row 24
Row 23
Row 22
Row 21
Row 20 These stitches marked in red are the irst stitches of the next pattern repeat
Row 19
Row 18
Row 17
Row 16
Row 15
Row 14
Row 13
Row 12
Row 11
Row 10
Row 9
Row 8
Row 7
Row 6
Row 5 Key Slip stitch
Row 4
Chain Double crochet Treble Crochet
Tr2tog
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Row 3
Row 2
Row 1
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beautiful blankets
circus of love cushion summer scarves frill up your jeans colourful braided belt And moreâ&#x20AC;¦
Anyone f o tenn i ?
ON SALE TUESDAY 15 MAY * Contents subject to change
HOOK’N’LEARN
s l t l it c h e h S
Ge
ing Luc t hook
y Croft’s third block for our beauti
NEW! GREAT FO BEGINNERR S
ful bla nket .
Made in association with Scheepjes. For stockists visit www.scheepjes.com
HOOK ’N’ ARN hiiiiiiiij
STONE WASHED XL
HOW-TO VIDEOS
Learnthisstitchatyoutube.com/ user/simplycrochetmag
This version of the blanket is made in Scheepjes Stone Washed XL. The shell stitch square is the third stitch you’ll learn in our Simply Crochet Hook ‘n’ Learn. There are nine more stitches to learn, which we’ll take you through step-by-step, making this a perfect project for a beginner.
This is the third pattern in our gorgeous Hook ‘n’ Learn blanket crochet-along, which we’ll be running over the year. Perfect for beginners and fun for more experienced stitchers, you’ll learn how to do 12 attractive stitches, then we’ll show you how to put it all together in the last issue. Choose between the beautiful soft shades of Stone Washed XL, or the bright tones of Colour Crafter (or go mad and make both!). This issue, have a go at Lucy’s striking Shell stitch. Please note: you’ll need to make two shell blocks if you are making the Colour Crafter version.
Stone washed xl Make one Shell Block Q Scheepjes Stone Washed XL (70% cotton, 30% acrylic, 50g/75m), 1 ball of each: Malachite (865), Peridot (867) Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) hook For yarn stockists for both versions visit Scheepjes at www.scheepjes.com/en
We want to see how you’re getting on! Join our group at www.facebook.com/ groups/hooknlearn and post your pics on Facebook and Instagram #SChooknlearn
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TENSION 3 Shells and 10 rows measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 4mm hook
ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92
MEASUREMENTS
NOTES
Shell Stitch Block measures 20x40cm (8x16in)
All even rows are worked on the RS. The instructions for the Colour Crafter blanket are shown in brackets.
TENSION 3 Shells meas 12cm (4¾in) and 11 rows meas 11cm (4¼in) over pattern using a 5.5mm hook
SHOW US YOUR HOOK ’N’ LEARN!
MEASUREMENTS Shell Block measures 16x32cm (6¼x12½in)
colour crafter Make two Shell Blocks Q Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% acrylic, 100g/300m), 1 ball of each: Block 1 Kortrijk (2009), Tilburg (1083) Block 2 Eindhoven (1114), Gouda (1081) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
SHELL BLOCK Using a 5.5mm (4mm) hook and Malachite (Kortrijk: Eindhoven), ch59. Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, *skip 2 next ch, 5tr in next ch, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, 3tr in last st, turn, fasten off. [9½ shells] Row 2 (WS) Join Peridot (Tilburg: Gouda) in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *skip next 2 tr, 5tr in next dc, skip
HOOK ’N’ ARN hiiiiiiij
COLOUR CRAFTER
Top: the Shell stitch square, worked in Stone Washed XL in Malachite and Peridot; Middle: worked in rich Colour Crafter Kortrijk and Tilburg; Bottom: worked in warm Colour Crafter Eindhoven and Gouda; Right: Colour Crafter creates a distinctively bright blanket.
next 2 tr, dc in next tr; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, skip next 2 tr, 3tr in last dc, turn, fasten off. [9½ shells] Row 3 (RS) Join Malachite (Kortrijk: Eindhoven) in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *skip next 2 tr, 5tr in next dc, skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, skip next 2 tr, 3tr in last dc, turn, fasten off. [9½ shells] Rows 2-3 set pattern.
Rows 4-17 (15: 15) Repeat Rows 2-3 seven times more or until Block measures 19.5 (15.5)cm. Next row Join Peridot (Tilburg: Gouda) in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, *htr in each of next 2 tr, tr in next dc, htr in each of next 2 tr, dc in next tr; repeat from * across to last 3 sts, htr in each of next 2 tr, tr in last dc, turn. [58 sts] Fasten off.
Chart
BUY YOUR YARN HERE! You can buy special Hook ‘n’ Learn kits for both Scheepjes Stone Washed XL and Colour Crafter yarns from www.black sheepwools.com, www.deramores.com and www. woolwarehouse.co.uk. If you’ve missed the first two block patterns, keep an eye on our website (www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk). Both the first block (Block stitch) and the second block (Waffle stitch) will be available to download soon.
Key Chain (ch)
Last row
Double crochet (dc) 3
Repeat
Half treble crochet (htr)
2 Treble crochet (tr) 1 Repeat
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HOOKY TREASURE
Love squared
Julie Nelson Rhodes aka Tilly Flop shares her favourite technicoloured dream throw, made for her by her sister. hen we moved from London to Manchester, my sister made me this beautiful crocheted throw as a generous housewarming gift. Not only was it the pattern I loved (from www.thepatchwork heart.co.uk/2015/05/the-story-of-grey-blanket. html), but she chose an Orla Kiely-type colour palette for it, too. She knows me very well! Being a new crocheter and starting to understand the mechanics of it all, I can see that it really was a huge undertaking for her to make it in time, even though it’s just a treble and three rounds. It also renewed my determination to learn to crochet. My little sister Shirley has been a crafter for many years and used to cross stitch. Coming from a family of knitters, she then finally picked up two needles, but discovered crochet about six or so years ago and hasn’t looked back. Having only ever knitted for years and years myself, she’s very patiently showing me the ropes (or yarn!). She’s taught
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me well, and I can now boast a very humble pile of similarly coloured small granny squares. To get started I ordered a pack of Stylecraft Special DK Limited Edition which I think is quite forgiving for a new crocheter – it certainly copes with being ripped back several times! The colours were appealing too. They’re not all my favourites but they all work well together: Duck Egg, Mustard, Grass Green, Boysenberry, Kelly Green, Empire, Pistachio, Lobelia, Fuchsia Purple and Cypress. The sum total of my crochet career thus far is rather small, but I am inordinately proud of them and believe that one day I will have enough to make a throw. I like the idea of small plain squares too, as it makes me think of pixels, which appeals to the graphic designer in me! Don’t miss our gifts this issue, featuring an exclusive card, stickers and tattoos designed by Tilly Flop, and you can ind Tilly Flop’s full range of designs on her etsy shop at www.etsy.com/uk/shop/tillylopdesigns
Cottonsoft DK
Crochet Pattern No 5145
T: 01756 703670, E: enquiries@kingcole.com, W: kingcole.com
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