August 2016 by Make It Better

Marin AUGUST 2016

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MORE MYSTERIOUS A FRONTIER

THAN THE MOON

Now open

In the depths of the ocean’s twilight zone—a region scientists know less about than the surface of the Moon—every dive yields new discoveries. Explore these deep reefs and the fascinating marine life found hundreds of feet below. Get tickets at calacademy.org Generously supported by

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Contents

AU GUST 2016

Features 41 Best of the County Where to eat, drink, shop and play your way through Marin.

64 Breakfast Club Gather around the table at Fred’s Place.

JACK WOLFORD

56 Point Reyes Days The national park that almost didn’t happen.

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Contents In Marin

26 On the Job Meet a Stinson Beach lifeguard. 28 Made by Marin Paddling with Desolation Outdoors. 30 Reading List Former mayor’s life with the birds. 32 FYI Dredging the San Rafael Canal. 36 Conversation AIM’s Brigitte Moran talks markets.

Destinations 95 Go Tasty food trends on Oahu. 100 Journey Three warm and exotic fantasy islands.

Out & About

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107 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond. 114 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area. 118 Flavor Salmon tail from Scoma’s. 123 On the Scene Snapshots from events in Marin and San Francisco.

Marin Home 129 Backstory Going downtown in Mill Valley.

107

COLUMNS 14 View From Marin 16 POV 170 Looking Back

You might recognize the name of the illustrator who produced our Best of the County cover this month, James van Kriedt. We liked the work he submitted for our May cover contest so much, we asked him to make a return appearance.

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129

100

TIM PORTER (TOP LEFT AND RIGHT); ART BY KIM FORD KITZ (MIDDLE)

23 Currents Seaplane Adventures, Marin Olympians and more.

AU GUST 2016

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THE DATEJUST The archetype of the modern watch has spanned generations since 1945 with its enduring functions and aesthetics. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood

Editorial EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mimi Towle MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett SENIOR WRITER Jim Wood ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kasia Pawlowska COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jim Calio, Peter Fish, Laura Hilgers, Tom James, Tim Porter, Nate Seltenrich, Sherrie Strausfogel, Calin Van Paris, Mike Waltze

Art CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR Robin Briskin PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French ILLUSTRATOR James van Kriedt CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Mo DeLong, Tim Porter, Joseph Schell, Debra Tarrant, Jack Wolford

Administration / Web CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh WEB/IT MANAGER Peter Thomas DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER Leigh Walker OFFICE MANAGER Kirstie Martinelli

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Volume 12, Issue 8. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Open Sky Media. All rights reserved. CopyrightÂ©2016. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Open Sky Media. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Marin (USPS 024-898) is published monthly by Open Sky Media, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sausalito, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

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By 2033, a private college education will cost half a million bucks. It feels awfully good to start planning now. If your wealth manager’s not driving the process, find someone who will. Don’t stay stuck in a loveless relationship — download our Practical Guide to Finding Happiness at www.privateocean.com/guide.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Advertising ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Debra Hershon ext 120 | dhershon@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Michele Geoffrion Johnson ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Leah Bronson, ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com Lesley Cesare, ext 113 | lcesare@marinmagazine.com

I see a I see half a future CEO or million dollars tech entrepreneur in education I or see a senator! I see half a debt. future CEO or million dollars tech entrepreneur in education or senator! debt.

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dana Horner, ext 107 | dhorner@marinmagazine.com Kirstie Martinelli ext 100 | kmartinelli@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Alex French

Regional Sales Offices WINE COUNTRY Lesley Cesare | lcesare@marinmagazine.com SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Leah Bronson | lbronson@marinmagazine.com NEW YORK Karen Couture, Couture Marketing | 917.821.4429 HAWAII Debbie Anderson, Destination Marketing | 808.739.2200

Reader Services MAILING ADDRESS One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965 PHONE 415.332.4800 FAX 415.332.3048 SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES subscriptions@marinmagazine.com 818.286.3160 INTERNSHIP INQUIRIES / STORY IDEAS editorial@marinmagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Please send letters to editorial@marinmagazine.com. Be sure to include your full name, city, state and phone number. Marin Magazine reserves the right to edit letters for clarity, length and style. SUBSCRIPTIONS Rates are $12 for gift subscriptions or free for general subscribers. To subscribe, manage your subscription or change your address visit marinmagazine.com/subscribe. BULK ORDERS For information on bulk orders of Marin Magazine, please call 415.332.4800.

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View From Marin

From left: Mimi Towle, Nikki Wood and Dan Jewett

You’ll love reading about the best wraps, the best burgers, the best drinks, the best yoga and so much more.

obstructing the San Rafael Canal and the progress being made on a proposed $20 million centralized Marin Farmers Market. In Destinations, we’re off o Oahu to explore the culinary evolution that continues with Hawaii’s next generation of chefs and show you who (and what) is cooking at the sixth annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival. And if you like islands, you’ll love our look at three exclusive international hot spots for dipping your toes in the sand. It’s a fun issue for those who like to eat, hike, drink, stretch, shop and play. We hope you enjoy it and to see you at one, or all, of the places highlighted in our Best of the County issue. Marin Magazine Staff Editors

JACK WOLFORD

UGUST IS A LWAYS a fun month because it is when we can reveal our Best of the County picks. This time around we ditched the 101 items format and organization by town and decided to just focus in on what makes Marin great. We love the results. And you’ll love reading about the best wraps, the best burgers, the best drinks, the best yoga and so much more. We continue with a feature by Peter Fish about the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service and the wonder that is Point Reyes National Seashore. Earning a national park designation for this area wasn’t a slam dunk; it took some local heroes to make it happen. Learn the history and find out what the next 100 years hold. Features wrap up with a story on a group of folks who have shared more than 10,000 breakfasts at Fred’s Place in Sausalito. Tom James gets the scoop on why attendees (almost) never miss the morning meal. Up front we introduce you to a lively lifeguard, a paddleboard purveyor and a brilliant birder. We also take a look at a regional plan to solve the dredging issues that are

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POV

My list of Marin’s most influential residents. BY JIM WOOD

Marin’s five county supervisors wield considerable influence in addition to overseeing the county’s unincorporated communities.

ERE, CURRENTLY A ND strictly

from my point of view, are 16 of Marin’s most accomplished and influential people. In recent months, three of Marin’s political leaders took strong stands on the nationwide issue of gun violence. Gavin Newsom, California’s lieutenant governor and a Ross resident, got a gun (and bullet) control initiative placed on the November ballot; Marin Congressman Jared Huffman helped stage a congressional sit-in demanding commonsense gun control legislation; and Marin Assemblyman Marc Levine had a bill signed into law closing a loophole on assault weapon ownership in California. Marin’s five county supervisors wield considerable influence in addition to overseeing the county’s unincorporated communities. Supervisor Steve Kinsey is also chairman of the powerful California Coastal Commission, which recently dismissed its executive director over concerns he was overly detail-focused and slow to make the coastline accessible to people of all income levels. Supervisors Judy Arnold and Kate Sears serve on the boards of SMART (Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit), set to begin service within 90 days; and the Golden Gate Bridge, Highway and Transportation District, which deals with bridge tolls, ferry routes and bus service. And Damon Connolly, in addition to being a county supervisor, is a voting member of Association of Bay Area Governments (ABAG), a ninecounty and 101-city regional planning board currently considering merging with the Metropolitan Transit Commission (MTC), a similar planning group concerned with transportation issues. Supervisor Katie Rice is Marin’s representative on the Bay Area Air Quality Management District, which sets Spare the Air days, when wood fires are prohibited and bus fares are free. And here’s my alphabetical list of other notable Marin leaders: • Jean-Jacques Bienaime, chairman and CEO at BioMarin Pharmaceuticals. BioMarin is a major and growing presence in downtown San

Rafael; its operations now contribute more than half a billion dollars to the local economy. • Mary Jane Burke, Marin’s superintendent of schools. Her office supports Marin’s more than 36,000 students. She’s also the force behind SchoolsRule Marin, a countywide organization that’s raised more than $2 million in auxiliary funding for local schools. • Russ Colombo, president and CEO, Bank of Marin. Born in Marin, Colombo also chairs SMART’s citizens oversight committee. With the recent purchase of Bank of Alameda, his bank now has 21 branches, 10 in the county. • Lee Domanico, CEO, Marin General Hospital. Last week, a $550 million project to rebuild and seismically retrofit MGH began construction and will take three years to complete, while the hospital remains open. Domanico is making this happen. • Michael Krasny, host, Forum on KQED-FM. Krasny, a Ph.D., English professor and Greenbrae resident, has a daily Bay Area following of 85,000 (and a worldwide online audience) who listen to discussions of critical topics with influential people. His 2016 guests include former CIA chief Michael Hayden, author E.O. Wilson and actor/comic Billy Crystal. • Farhad Mansourian, general manager, SMART. After others made a rocky start of it, Mansourian took over management of the 38-mile commuter line between Santa Rosa and San Rafael five years ago and will deliver it on time, this fall. • Thomas Peters, president and CEO, Marin Community Foundation. Started in 1987, MCF manages $1.6 billion in assets — half from the Buck Family Trust and half from Bay Area individuals — and distributes $65 million annually to worthy causes, mostly in Marin County. • Dawn Weisz, CEO, Marin Clean Energy. Created to deliver renewable energy to Marin at costs just above those of PG&E’s nonrenewable sources, MCE now serves Richmond, Napa County and East Bay cities. Weisz was CEO from the get-go. If I overlooked (or overrated) someone, let me know. That’s my point of view. What’s yours? Email pov@marinmagazine.com The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the policy or position of Marin Magazine and its staff.

RICHARD WHEELER

Moving and Shaking

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POV

Your Letters

Contributors

Row Your Boat Jim Calio Writer, “Fantasy Islands” (p. 100) A Los Angeles–based travel writer, Jim Calio has visited more than 50 countries and written about everything from the Great Wall in China to walking safaris in Africa to a cooking school in Oman. He is a former Life magazine West Coast bureau chief and writer for Newsweek and People magazines in New York. His dream trip is to go into space with the first tour company that will book him.

Thanks for making Marin Magazine such a fine publication. I always read it cover to cover. Even the ads are attractive. I want to compliment you on the cover for the annual 2016 cover contest (May, 2016). As the originator of recreational rowing in Marin back in 1967, I had no idea it would eventually became the Marin Rowing Association. Created with the help, insight and skills of Greenbrae’s Bob Cummings, a 1932 Olympic sculler representing Canada (the Boat House is named in his honor), and many other former oarsmen and scullers, the success of the sport in Marin is good to see and perfectly expressed by artist Barrie Barnett. HOWARD LEVENSON, SAN RAFAEL

Baby on the Bridge Peter Fish Writer, “Point Reyes Days” (p. 56) Peter Fish has been writing about national parks and the American West for 30 years, for Sunset magazine, the San Francisco Chronicle and AFAR, among other publications. His Sunset article on the reintroduction of wolves to Yellowstone National Park, “Howl,” won a 2013 Lowell Thomas Award gold medal for environmental journalism. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and son.

Tom James Writer, “Breakfast Club” (p. 64) Tom James is the owner and founder of Overall Social, a San Francisco–based digital marketing agency. Previously he spent 20 years as a media executive, most recently as VP of content and strategy at Bonnier Corporation, overseeing more than 40 national magazine brands, including Saveur, Transworld Surf, Scuba Diving and others. He lives in Mill Valley with his wife, Sarah, and 16-month-old daughter, Sadie.

Thanks for your article on the Golden Gate Bridge and the babies born there (Summer Guide, 2016). There was also, in 1968, a little girl delivered on the bridge. My father, Capt. Edward Moore, was present at her birth. MARILYN MOORE DINEEN, SAN RAFAEL

Corrections

I enjoy your magazine, and that is not at all lessened by finding a mistake in the recent issue. The photo on page 146 (Looking Back, June) is taken at the intersection of Princess Street and Bridgeway (aka Water Street) looking north, not south. You can see in the distance the stone elephants that mark the park. They are still there, as is the new ferry landing. Much of the text in the article is turned around in the labeling of what is in the photo. IAN SOBIESKI, VIA EMAIL In our July Journey about Ethiopia we called the country the most populous in the world. We intended to say it is the most populous landlocked country in the world. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine.com. Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

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P R OMOT I O N P R O MOT I O N

Connect

WITH US

64TH ANNUAL SAUSALITO ART FESTIVAL WHEN

Sept. 3–4, 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sept. 5, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

WHERE

Marinship Park/Bay Model Visitor Center, Sausalito

WHY YOU SHOULD GO

Set against the magnificent Sausalito waterfront and the San Francisco Bay, the Sausalito Art Festival has steadily grown, attracting more than 30,000 patrons and 260 award winning international artists over Labor Day weekend. The featival also features a world-class entertainment lineup, unique special exhibits and a cornucopia of food, beer, specialty drinks and wine.

COST FIND OUT MORE

• online Time to Plan After the engagement comes the wedding planning, but where to begin? Marin Magazine’s online Wedding Resource Guide can help you get started. This recently updated online guide has information on venues, florists, photographers, cakes, planners and much more. Launch your search today at marinmagazine.com/weddings.

Marin At Home Have you checked out the latest issue of Marin At Home yet? The summer/fall issue has stunning architecture and interior design content, info on the latest home trends and much more. Editor-in-Chief Zahid Sardar led the process of bringing the stories to light; read them all at marinmagazine.com/marinathome.

$25, seniors $20, kids under 12 free, VIP $100 415.332.3555, sausalitoartfestival.org

• in person Cling On

Friend us to share and view RSVP Hot Ticket photos at facebook.com/marinmagazine Want to see all the images from our RSVP Hot Ticket events? marinmagazine.com/hotticket

You’ll find more than 80 food, shop, recreation, drink and just plain fun honorees in this 2016 Best of the County issue — places well worth checking out and activities well worth pursuing. Look for these window clings in local stores, shops, studios and restaurants; find one and you’ll know it’s a place you definitely need to try. Head to marinmagazine. com/bestofthecounty to view the complete list online.

VINH NGUYEN PHOTOGRAPHY (FLOWERS); JOE FLETCHER (AT HOME); JAMES VAN KRIEDT (BEST OF)

Bay Area events you’ll want to attend

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WHERE THE FITTEST SURVIVE, IT’S NO SURPRISE THE BEST IS EXPANDING. MODERN LUXURY LIVES HERE.

Now with three stunning ships, six unique itineraries, and new ports of call in the Galápagos Islands, we offer more comprehensive, all-inclusive vacations than ever. To learn about our latest offers, visit CelebrityCruises.com, call 800 CELEBRITY, or contact your travel agent. © 2016 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador.

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lifestyle boutique

EMBRACE YOUR MAGNIFICENCE 800 Redwood Hwy. Ste. 216, Mill Valley, Ca. 94941 | 415.383.3223 | www.evo-spa.com Photo by Karen Wiles

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In Marin

CE L E B R AT I N G T H E PEO PL E , PL ACE S A N D C AU S E S O F T H I S U N I Q U E CO U N T Y

BLUE SKIES

A unique local company celebrates a milestone.

TYSON RINNINGER

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA

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In Marin / CURRENTS

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23

The company behind SEAPLANE ADVENTURES has undergone many iterations through the years. Originally established in 1945 as Commodore Seaplanes by Bob Law, a returning veteran World War II seaplane pilot, it has provided (at one time) a home base for the largest flight school in the United States and the largest regional air carrier going to Lake Tahoe, as well as rehearsal space for the Grateful Dead, Jefferson Airplane and Carlos Santana. These days it holds another designation — the only remaining seaplane company in California. Currently operated by Sausalito residents Aaron and Tiffany Singer, Seaplane Adventures offers five tours that give passengers bird’seye views of Alcatraz, the Golden Gate Bridge, Stinson Beach and more. The company is also celebrating a big anniversary this year — and chalking up some other impressive numbers. seaplane.com K.P. BY THE NUMBERS

100,000+ FLIGHTS TAKEN

3,500+ IN-AIR

PROPOSALS 150+ YEARS COMBINED

PILOT EXPERIENCE

70 business

2,650-mile flighttaken

years of

STYLE COUNCIL

Our county draws all kinds of talented individuals: entrepreneurs, artists and top athletes. In honor of the 2016 Rio games, here are Olympians who have at one point or another called Marin their home. K.P. Andre Agassi Tennis (Tiburon) Mike Altman Rowing (Kentfield) John Bertrand Sailing (San Rafael) Will Baylis Sailing (Tiburon) Molly Carapiet Sailing (Belvedere) John Cashman Rowing (Kentfield) Paul Cayard Sailing (Kentfield) Ann Curtis Cuneo Swimming (San Rafael) Rick DeMont Swimming (San Rafael) Richard Draeger Rowing (Novato) Brad Gilbert Tennis (San Rafael) Craig Healy Sailing (Tiburon) Pam Healy Sailing (Tiburon) Fred Honebein Rowing (Tiburon) Michael Johnson Track and Field (San Rafael) John Kostecki Sailing (Tiburon) Mary McConneloug Mountain Biking (Fairfax) Jonny Moseley Freestyle Skiing (Tiburon) Russ Silvestri Sailing (Tiburon) Alex Tarics Water Polo (Belvedere) Archie Williams Track and Field (Fairfax)

In the past 40 years the American Craft Council’s San Francisco show has grown to be the largest juried fine craft show on the West Coast. This year, from August 5 to 7, the Fort Mason event is hosting more than 220 artists, who will be displaying jewelry, apparel, furniture and home decor. In a Style Slam showcase, also featured as part of the show for the first time on the West Coast, stylists demonstrate how handmade pieces can enhance an outfit to create current seasonal looks. One of the four stylists chosen to participate, Greenbrae resident Betina Baumgarten, started her business Best Foot Forward in 2012 and will offer makeovers to attendees. craftcouncil.org, bffbybetina.com K.P.

TYSON RINNINGER (SEAPLANE); TIM PORTER (SWIMMER)

BY THE NUMBERS

Community Champions

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In Marin / CURRENTS

Rescue Me

When people need help in the ocean, here’s the person they most want to see. BY TIM PORTER

F YOU FIND yourself in trouble in the water at Stinson Beach,

ON THE JOB How do people get in trouble in the ocean? The biggest problem is people who just aren’t used to being in the water. I rescued a guy last weekend who was on a boogie board and the current was pulling him out. I asked him if he knew how to swim and he said no. I told him, “You probably shouldn’t be in the water up to your chest, dude.” You’re not a big person. How much strength do you need for this job? I’m a short female and all the people I’ve rescued have been males. You have to have the strength to swim somebody in. As a female, you have to be strong and be willing and able to do most of the stuff hat the men can. My mom always used to say, “Some people are made to pull the cart and some people are made to sit in it.” I was made to pull it. I have to bring up Baywatch. It’s OK. Is there anything you actually do here that resembles that TV show? We wear red and we have rescue tubes. That’s it. We don’t run in slow motion and it’s not ever pretty when we go to rescue someone. m

TIM PORTER

maybe caught up in a powerful rip current, you may meet Jen Glazier. At 32, the ocean rescue specialist is highly experienced at pulling people safely out of places they shouldn’t be. In less stressful moments, she coordinates the National Park Service’s summer Junior Lifeguard program. When did you start lifeguarding? I became a lifeguard when I was 15. You’ve worked here for how long? Four years. I am a full-time, seasonal employee. I work from the beginning of May through the end Jen Glazier, lifeguard, of October. How often do you need to help Stinson Beach people in the water? More this year than we have the last three years, because the beach has changed and there are a lot more rip currents. I’ve gone in already twice, maybe three times this year. Have you ever been unable to rescue someone? In 2012, I was guarding for a triathlon on the Russian River and I had to pull this lady out and give her CPR, but she died on me. She’d had a heart attack. How traumatic that must have been. It focused me on wanting to take care of people. I got my EMT. I got certified in ocean rescue. I’ve gone back to nursing school and I hope one day to be a flight nurse. Flight nurse? Work on a helicopter during urgent rescue situations.

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Get back to the active life you love! We know you want the very best orthopedic care and are willing to go the distance to get it. With Sutter Novato’s comprehensive orthopedic services in Marin County there is no need to travel. Sutter Health Novato Community Hospital‘s growing program features prominent Bay area surgeons. Whether you need one of our fellowship-trained orthopedic specialists or advanced imaging, we make it convenient to receive the excellent care you deserve. Specialized Orthopedics Care

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In Marin / CURRENTS

MADE BY MARIN

Desolation Outdoors

Founder Torben YjordJackson out on the water.

ERTAIN ACTIVITIES A RE synonymous with Marin life: hiking, mountain biking and now more than ever, stand-up paddleboarding. It should come as no surprise, then, that the vehicles for this pursuit would have local roots, too — and they do. The founder of Desolation Outdoors, Torben Yjord-Jackson, 25, was born and raised in Tiburon and is a lifelong outdoor enthusiast. Yjord-Jackson was able to combine his love of sailing, stand-up paddleboarding and longboarding (better for cruising downhill than skateboards) and his passion for restoring, enhancing and customizing boats when he founded Desolation Outdoors in December 2014. The company manufactures and markets premium stand-up paddleboards and longboard skateboards that were designed here in Marin by leading naval architects and marine engineers. Desolation paddleboards are made using a sandwich laminate of carbon fiber and Innegra cloth, a kind of construction that offers the best strength-to-weight ratio. In addition to a full line of stand-up paddleboards and paddles, the company also produces longboard skateboards that are handcrafted from Canadian maple wood. PHILOSOPHY Desolation Outdoors, named after the Desolation Wilderness in the Lake Tahoe Basin, is focused on producing premium outdoor gear and making that gear affordable for the masses. THE SCOOP “By selling direct, we market our stand-up paddleboards, paddles and longboards at an unrivaled price point but still communicate with customers 24/7 by live chat, email and phone,” says Yjord-Jackson. The company warehouses its products in California and Texas and independently ships products to the customer’s door within three days of an order being placed. BEYOND MARIN Desolation Outdoors hopes to eventually open showrooms in areas like San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver. WHAT THEY SAY “Our products are derived from passion and experience,” says Yjord-Jackson. “Marin County is a venue where we can easily test and enjoy all of our products by simply walking out the front door. You can find us out testing a new stand-up paddleboard along the Tiburon shoreline, or up on Mount Tam bombing down a hill on one of our 38-inch Speed Freak boards in the early morning.” desolationoutdoors.com KASIA PAWLOWSKA

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10’6” KO LIPE, $1,099

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In Marin / READING LIST

Author Talk We sat down with Novato’s Peter B. Logan to discuss his new book, Audubon: America’s Greatest Naturalist and His Voyage of Discovery to Labrador.

MM: You have a law practice in Novato and were once mayor of Tiburon — impressive resume. Is this your first stab at writing? PL: As a civil litigator, I’m writing all the time in the guise of legal briefs. So it’s a different kind of writing, but writing nonetheless. I also started birding at a very young age and have had a number of essays on the topic published in the past. But I never thought about writing a book. And before I discovered that longforgotten news article, I thought everything there was to say about John James Audubon had been said. MM: What news article? PL: I found a clipping from The San Francisco Call — an old city newspaper — from 1896 in a scrapbook kept by the Audubon family. It recounted the memories of a man named Joseph Coolidge who, at 18 years old, had journeyed with Audubon to Labrador in Canada in the summer of 1833. This was a critical time period in Audubon’s life: he was in the middle of the production of The

Birds of America, his magnum opus, and he was recovering from a stroke. I’ve been interested in Audubon for most of my life, and Audubon is pretty much the patron saint of bird-watchers. So I had heard about the Labrador expedition but had never heard any of these stories. MM: What was your biggest takeaway from researching this portion of Audubon’s life? PL: The expedition taught him more about himself than I think any other journey into the wilds had. He began to recognize that he was facing the end of his life and he had this massive publication to finish. After his stroke, he needed this return to wilderness in order to recover from the trauma. And, lastly, he began to understand, based on what he observed in Labrador, that mankind had the ability — even at that rather early stage in our [modern] history — to completely wipe out species of wildlife. So he returned as a nascent conservationist. CALIN VAN PARIS

Local Page Turners Audubon: America’s Greatest Naturalist and His Voyage of Discovery to Labrador by Peter B. Logan (Novato), Ashbryn Press, $40. The Birds of America was one man’s dream to illustrate and publish a work depicting all of the birds of North America. Midway through the nearly 12-year project, the French-American painter and naturalist John James Audubon was beset by obstacles and began to doubt if he could complete it. Peter B. Logan recounts the unforgettable story of the famed American woodsman. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on August 25, 7 p.m.

The Shaking Reeds by John Pedersen (San Anselmo), Amazing Grace Media, $15.95. When Soren Rauhe accidentally dumps his coffee in the lap of Jenny Farrar, his life of vintage motorbikes, NorCal surf and Irish tunes gets seriously complicated. The Shaking Reeds is jam-packed with musical references, unexpected twists and lots of humor. What else would you expect from John Pedersen, owner and operator of San Anselmo’s Amazing Grace music store? Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on August 6, 4 p.m.

Dropping the Struggle: Seven Ways to Love the Life You Have by Roger Housden (Larkspur), New World Library, $19.95. The latest short book from teacher and anthologist Roger Housden is an antidote to the anxiety and stress of constantly feeling that you have to battle your way toward a life of meaning, love and personal significance. It offers an alternative view of and vocabulary for the language of struggle and competition that is so commonly used in any conversation about career, purpose, intimate relations and even spiritual practice. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on September 8, 7 p.m.

Let There Be Laughter by Michael Krasny (Greenbrae), William Morrow, $19.99. From the host of KQED’s Forum with Michael Krasny comes a compendium of Jewish jokes that packs the punches with hilarious riffs. Krasny delves deeply into the themes, topics and form of Jewish humor. Borrowing from traditional humor and such Jewish comedy legends as Mel Brooks, Joan Rivers, Larry David, Jerry Seinfeld and Amy Schumer, Let There Be Laughter is a pleasure for members of the tribe and the goyim alike. Appearing at Book Passage Corte Madera on September 27, 7 p.m. Book picks by Book Passage Marketing Director Zack Ruskin.

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In Marin / FYI

A new regional partnership could be the answer to reestablishing a dredging schedule for the San Rafael Canal and other local waterways. BY NATE SELTENRICH PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

Shallow Waters

HE PADDY WAGON, a 24-foot Skipjack fishing boat, sits in two feet of water

outside the San Rafael Yacht Club. At the wheel is Jerry McNulty, a former commodore of the club and all-around competent skipper. He knew, at least, to park the boat here overnight; any trip to the upper reaches of the San Rafael Canal earlier in the morning would’ve been cut short. “At low tide, the chances of getting stuck are 100 percent,” he says. Even now, the Paddy Wagon is at its low-water limit. McNulty turns the key, the engine comes to life, and the half-buried propeller churns up a smudgy black cloud that billows behind the boat. A pungent, sulfuric smell fills the air: bay mud. The boat slowly pulls off, leaving a putrid plume in its wake. McNulty couldn’t have orchestrated it better if he’d tried. He helps lead a local group called Friends of the Canal, whose 150-or-so members hope to call attention to the importance of dredging San Rafael’s central waterway — not just up here at the yacht club, effectively the canal’s terminus, but all the way down to San Pablo

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Opposite: Canal docks with Mount Tamalpais in the background. This page from top: Bay mud can be seen as the canal exits into the bay; Jerry McNulty pilots the Paddy Wagon.

Without any alternative funding source in place, the clock is ticking on the canal as more silt trickles in each year. Bay and the two Marin Islands, about 2.5 miles away. Traditional funding streams have all but run dry, and without significant local support, group members believe the canal could too. “We’re at a crossroads, where if we don’t get together as a community and find a solution, there’s a good chance we could end up like Bahia,” says fellow Friends of the Canal member Sam Ferguson, referring to the Novato neighborhood whose lagoon filled with silt due to a lack of dredging. “It can happen, and I do think there’s a lack of belief that it can happen.” Yet unlike Bahia and most other narrow channels fringing the bay, the San Rafael Canal was designated a federal waterway in 1919. This special distinction means the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers pays to keep it navigable, and the corps has funded dredging of the canal 13 times since 1930, an average of once every 6.6 years — most recently in the winter of 2011–2012, at a cost of $1.4 million. That’s just about when things started to go downhill, say McNulty and Ferguson. During this most recent dredge, not only did the corps fail to dredge the upper 40 percent or so of the canal due to a lack of funds for handling contaminated soils concentrated in and around the turning basin, just outside the yacht club, but it also dredged the remaining portion to a shallower depth than usual — fiveand-a-half feet.

“We have to do our boat moves at high tide,” says Matt Butler, who runs the 160-slip San Rafael Yacht Harbor just down the canal from the yacht club, also within the area that hasn’t been dredged since 2002. “If you draw more than 24 inches of water, you’re going to have a hard time getting up the channel at low tide.” Outside the harbor the water is about three-and-a-half feet deep at zero tide, Butler says; ideally it’d be closer to six. Despite the challenges posed by the incomplete dredge, something else happened in 2011 that sent even bigger ripples down the canal: a House-passed ban on federal earmarks that eliminated the mechanism through which the dredging was funded in both 2011 and 2002. Today, without any alternative funding source in place, the clock is ticking on the canal as more silt trickles in each

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In Marin / FYI

The mud encroaches so much on boats in the Petaluma River that sometimes a temporary island forms.

year, primarily through storm water runoff, and the canal gets ever shallower. But businesses like Butler’s and boaters like Ferguson, who also owns a home on the water, have reason to be optimistic. A new, first-of-its-kind regional partnership is taking shape that could spell an answer to San Rafael’s dredging problems, and to those of a couple of North Bay neighbors. Like the San Rafael Canal, the Petaluma River (actually a tidal slough) and the Napa River are federal waterways that have been dredged by the Army Corps of Engineers for decades. And they, too, have been impacted by the disappearance of dredging funds in recent years. These so-called shallow-draft waterways don’t have the clout to compete with a deep-draft port like Oakland for the corps’ attention, so they’ve lost out on whatever dredging funds have been allocated by Congress in the intervening years. The idea behind the nascent regional partnership, explains Congressman Jared Huffman (D-San Rafael), who’s been angling for dredging funds since his election in 2013, is to elevate these North Bay waterways from a series of small-time jobs to a single, larger project with significant regional value. All three waterways — and potentially others as well — would be dredged together on a regular schedule, improving efficiencies and economies of scale. “This is the best alternative there is, I believe, short of getting some line-item appropriation that we will continue to fight for, but it may not happen in the time frame we need,” Huffman says.

Richard Landis, San Rafael’s Public Works administrative manager, says the city supports the idea, too. “The corps has been very clear that shallow-draft channels are a low priority,” he says. “This partnership seems to be the only chance of moving forward.” In the works for about a year, the plan is still in its early stages, and many important details have yet to be decided — like the extent to which local governments will chip in. Yet the corps’ response to date has been encouraging. “They’ve very interested,” Huffman says. “There’s no other proposal like this anywhere in the country under development. This really would be new and interesting to the top brass at the Army Corps of Engineers.” An independent consultant will spend time this summer developing a proposal for the corps. If it’s approved, dredging won’t commence any sooner than late 2018, says Dan St. John, director of public works and utilities for the City of Petaluma and de facto leader of the coalition. By then the San Rafael Canal will likely have taken on at least another foot of mud, posing even greater challenges for boaters. But David Wells, who co-owns 101 Surf Sports directly across the canal from Matt Butler’s harbor, says he’s one of the few who will get along just fine until then — the business rents kayaks and stand-up paddleboards that require inches, not feet, of water. And in the short term, dredging would actually hurt his business by keeping people off he water. Still, he says, it’s clear the present situation isn’t sustainable. “If banding all together makes money appear, then that’s good,” he says. “Having a more vibrant marine industry down here as a regional point of pride would, over the long term, serve us well.” That collective benefit came starkly into view as the Paddy Wagon approached the yacht club and turning basin on its return from a brief trip down the canal. A small sailboat sat motionless in the water about 20 feet from shore, sails down: stranded in the same mud that nearly snagged McNulty’s boat a few hours before. McNulty pulled up close and tossed a rope to the man aboard, who rigged it to his bow. Then the Paddy Wagon reversed course, towed its charge to deeper water, and set the boat free. Just another day on the San Rafael Canal. m

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3 1 S T A N N UA L

P R E S E N T E D B Y T H E N O R T H L A K E TA H O E R E S O R T A S S O C I AT I O N

INDULGE IN THE SEASON

September 9th - 11th, 2016 at Northstar California

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

VER MARIN MAGAZINE ’S 11-year

Brigitte Moran

The San Rafael resident is spearheading an effort to bring a $20 million permanent farmers’ market to Marin. BY JIM WOOD • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

history, Brigitte Moran is one of only a few who have been featured twice in Conversation. She first appeared in the July 2010 issue. Why again? Because Moran is now heading up a $20 million project at the Marin County Civic Center that reflects the changing nature of farmers’ markets throughout Marin, California and much of the United States. Over the past 28 years, Moran has played a key role in the development of Marin’s enormously popular farmers’ markets — those spring, summer and fall coming-togethers that reflect Marin’s healthy, outdoor- and community-oriented lifestyle. She’s the CEO and executive director of the Agricultural Institute of Marin (AIM), a nonprofit that’s been around for seven years and currently manages seven large-scale farmers’ markets: on Clement Street and at Stonestown Galleria in San Francisco; in Oakland, Hayward and Newark; and the Thursday and Sunday morning markets at the Marin County Civic Center. The Canadian-born Moran, 59, made her way to the U.S. after living in France’s Brittany and Pyrenees regions. She attended Marin Catholic High School, where she met Herb, her husband of 38 years. The couple lives in San Rafael’s Dominican neighborhood, and their three adult children and four grandchildren reside nearby. Before getting to AIM’s $20 million project, let’s discuss the organization that hopes to make it happen. The Agricultural Institute of Marin is a nonprofit currently operating on a $2.4 million annual budget. Ninety-five percent of our income comes from the $55 we

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as similar organizations are doing statewide. It isn’t right to have our farmers burn out on the selling side of their way of earning a living — which could very well happen. And, by the way, 25 of the 240 farmers who sell at our civic center farmers’ markets are from West Marin. The others come from throughout Northern and Central California, and they travel considerable distance to get their products to market.

MARIN FA R M E R S M A R K E T

COURTESY OF BACKEN GILLAM KROEGER

03/06/16

our chief development director, which is simicharge for use of each stall at our seven farmlar to the role she previously held for Marin ers’ markets. We have 16 full-time employees, C ONC EP T U A L R E N D E R I N G Academy and Marin Country Day School. plus eight part-timers, and we operate 24/7 because markets often take place on weekIn the Marin Magazine Conversation of six ends. Our offices are on Smith Ranch Road years ago, AIM was managing farmers’ marnear the San Rafael airport and we have a kets in San Rafael, Novato and Fairfax as well 15-member board of directors, half of whom as the two at the civic center. Now, in Marin are farmers and dairy ranchers, like Lynn County, AIM manages only Thursday and Giacomini Stray of Point Reyes Farmstead Sunday morning markets at the civic center. Cheese, Doug Stonebreaker of Prather Why the reduced number of markets? When I started working in farmers’ markets 28 When I started working years ago, there were 60 regularly operating in farmers’ markets 28 years in California; now there are 850. That’s not because there are that many more farmers ago, there were 60 regularly who want to market directly to consumers. operating in California; now It’s because there are many more consumers there are 850. who want a convenient farmers’ market near their home. But farmers who sell direct are simply spreading themselves too thin. And in Ranch and David Lewis of UC Agricultural recent years they’ve been basically telling us, Extension, and half are members of Marin’s “Look, having all these small markets, spread business and civic community, like Jenny around like Starbucks, isn’t helping us. Our Callaway of Congressman Huffman’s office, primary job is farming; let’s have one regional, Pat Kendall of Kaiser Permanente and Ed centralized market where the people can come Levine of Levine Solutions. Our mission is “to to us on a regular basis and we can sell at fewer connect and support communities and agrimarkets and make a decent living at it.” So culture.” Two years ago, in anticipation of our our board decided to move in that direction, capital campaign, we named Vicki Buder as

This sounds like a lead-in to your major project at Marin County Civic Center. It is. And what’s primarily behind AIM’s project is the need for a feeling of permanence. Our Sunday farmers’ market draws 10,000 people and involves as many as 240 vendors. But our lease with the county allows the county, if need be, to insist that we move to a different location on 30 days’ notice. For instance, we have moved to Northgate mall for the next five months due to needed road repairs in the area surrounding the civic center. And it’s not easy to move 10,000 people and 240 businesses on short notice, which happens three or four times a year. And a lot of these businesses depend on us for much of their income — and every time we move, we lose a certain percentage of our customers until they can find our new location. There’s also the matter of inclement weather; B

a r c h i t e c t s

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

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when it rains or it’s real windy, our current temporary facilities aren’t adequate and our customer base drops by as much as 50 percent. And then, as I mentioned earlier, there’s the desire on the part of farmers, ranchers and dairy people that they have a more centralized location to sell their products.

building plans and now we’re about to begin the active phase of the fundraising campaign.

It isn’t right to have our farmers burn out on the selling side of their way of earning a living — which could very well happen.

Walk us through the proposed Marin Farmers Market. On the five-acre parcel — it’s been mostly a parking lot for many years — we’ll have a public market hall that’s open seven days a week; we’ll have two canopies that cover 90 of our 240 vendors; we’ll have a compound of three buildings that will include a butcher shop run by a rancher, a dairy shop that will be operated by a dairyman, and 28 “day tables” where farmers can sell their produce any day of the week. We’ll also have a restaurant with a demonstration kitchen and a cafe, a working greenhouse and a children’s play area. For generations, there’ve been public market places like this throughout Europe and Asia; now it’s the future here. But we’ll need the visionaries of Marin to make it happen.

As of now, where does your project stand? Two years ago, after several months of planning, we were required by a county civic center mandate to go to Marin voters and get permission to build a permanent public market hall and canopies on a five-acre parcel next to the 101 freeway often referred to as the “Christmas tree lot.” The response was 82 percent in favor of approving our request. But it didn’t provide for any funding; it just allowed us permission to build within the civic center area. And since getting voters’ permission we’ve been negotiating a permanent 40-year lease with the County of Marin, with two 10-year options to renew. We’ve developed our

What is the cost of the proposed public market hall and canopies? It will cost $20 million; right now we are calling it the Marin Farmers Market. That may change.

That sounds great, but one might ask why the community should provide a marketplace for farmers and ranchers? They are businesspeople; shouldn’t they be providing

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their own marketplace? First, I believe this project is for us, the community, not just for the farmers. It’s a place for us to gather as a community around the food from our community. We, Marin, need this, a public place that’s free where we can gather. As for the farmers, honestly, I don’t know how to say this, but our farmers and ranchers are people who for the most part have chosen a lifestyle that really doesn’t make a lot of money. What they do, they do out of a love of the land and a love of the products they produce for us, their community. Their profit margins are very low. This is not the Dole family growing pineapple; it’s Jesse and Moira Kuhn of Marin Roots Farm, who grow organic kale, chicories and radishes, then sell them at our markets. These folks are good businesspeople, but they aren’t wealthy; they don’t live the Marin lifestyle. And they do need our support, which is one of the reasons the Agricultural Institute of Marin does what it does. What is your optimum timeline for the $20 million Marin Farmers Market? Our ideal timeline is to raise $10 million by the end of this year. Like similar endeavors involving this amount of money, the first money is the hardest money to raise. And we’ve been silently getting interest, so it looks like we could get that first $10 million by year’s end. Then, assuming we are able to hit this pace, we would be able to break ground by late spring or early summer of 2018. I think a Marin Farmers Market would bring a new and possibly needed energy to the entire Marin County Civic Center. It will be a permanent public farmers’ market close to the freeway and the new SMART station, so it will be easy to reach. And we’ll have a restaurant where people can dine before or after an event at the civic center. Plus, it will be more than a place for people to gather; it will be a place where, with a few hundred dollars, a person can start a business. Sol Food, Novato’s Flour Chylde Bakery, Donna’s Tamales and Nicasio Cheese all are businesses that started at a Sunday farmers’ market. Our AIM staff s so committed to this project we just bought two dozen lottery tickets and, if we win, we agreed to donate the first $20 million to building the Marin Farmers Market, then split what’s left over between us. That’s how we feel about this project. m M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 39

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WELCOME. For the last eight years, the August issue has been synonymous with Editors’ Choice, in which we highlight facets of Marin that make our home such a remarkable place to live. For many of those years, we choose 101 items — a nice number and a nod to our famous freeway. Last year we used a new name, Best of the County, and 2016 marks yet another change. Gone are the days of 101 — this year we are simply homing in on the top people, shops, restaurants, services, activities and gatherings that make Marin so outstanding. Instead of focusing on each town and finding the best burger or kids’ dance class there, we wanted to go deeper and explain why we think a particular pick is worthy of your time and attention. Did we miss something in the following pages? As always, let us know — we love feedback … and we love Marin. P H O T O S B Y T I M P O R T E R // I L L U S T R A T I O N S B Y J A M E S V A N K R I E D T M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 41

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PHOTO CREDIT

With so many restaurants, delis and breakfast spots in Marin, there is plenty of dining competition. Here we spotlight dishes and experiences that keep us coming back for more.

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WORTH THE WAIT Restaurant lines are not created equal — some are markers of quality, while others symbolize ephemeral hype. One of the most relentless lines that’s worth it, however, is the one at Fish. Whether it’s Sausalito locals stopping by for some ceviche and fries or those traveling across bridges to nab a crab roll and show their visitors a not-to-be-missed Marin experience, the hordes are not deterred by the patrons pouring out the door. If you’ve been, you understand. If you haven’t, bring cash, wear comfortable shoes and strike up a conversation. 331fish.com

THINK THIN If you crave a slice of New York City–style pizza, head to Manhattan, but don’t forget the antacid. If you don’t want to travel to the East Coast (or the drugstore), head to Larkspur for the ultimate thin-crust pizza, made from locally sourced organic ingredients and baked in a wood-burning oven. At Pizzeria Picco, diners choose from more than a dozen different pizzas or build their own. Patrons have the option of bellying up to the bar or dining alfresco while getting cozy under a heat lamp. Alternatively, pick up an assortment of flash-frozen pizzas and cook your favorite pie at home. Should you decide to pass it off as homemade, well, that’s your choice. pizzeriapicco.com

BETTER BACON If you can’t marry up, eat up with two slices of Millionaire’s Bacon at Fred’s Place in Sausalito. This recipe is borrowed from sister

Toast the Toast restaurant Sweet Maple in San Francisco. To be clear, they didn’t create the concept of bacon made better, aka Million Dollar Bacon, but they did improve on it. Most joints use presliced hunks that yield 12 pieces per pound; here, each pound yields five super-thick slices, which are then baked in a convection oven for more than three hours with a secret sauce that combines sweet and heat. You could try to make it at home, but why bother? 415.332.4575

DINE AND DANCE If we told you that there was a spot in West Marin that featured food prepared by an Iron Chef champion, tasty barbecue, outdoor seating and live music, would you believe us? Well, there definitely is. That place is Rancho Nicasio, that chef is Ron Siegel and the music is from favorites like Kronos Quartet, Zydeco Flames, Danny Click and Tommy Castro. Come for any and all of it, but stay for the locally sourced, farmfresh dishes that the Michelin-starred chef is serving up. ranchonicasio.com

For those late to the avocado toast trend, the good news is that it has been perfected at Shoreline Coffee Shop in Mill Valley in the form of Tennessee Valley Toast. Served on bread made up the street at Green Gulch Farms, topped with eggs laid down the street at Woolly Egg Ranch and finished with organic kale and avocado sprinkled with chile flakes, this is one top toast. shorelinecoffeeshop.com

JACK WOLFORD (TOP); DEBRA TARRANT (RIGHT)

It’s a Wrap

Off ighway 101’s Sausalito exit, an unassuming strip mall hides one of Marin’s best-kept foodie secrets. Served at Davey Jones Deli — a modest sandwich and salad counter inside the New Bait Shop — the Vulcan Wrap offers a kaleidoscope of color rolled into a spinach tortilla for your consuming pleasure. Packed with hummus, almonds, avocado, quinoa, and the “Twerks” (spinach, arugula, cucumber, carrots, radish, beets, bean sprouts, toasted sesame salt and garlic), this creation is understandably a best seller, and it’s easy to see why it’s named as it is. Live long and prosper. daveyjonesdeli.com M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 43

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LOAFING AROUND Two runners raising money to open a bakery might sound like the plot to a goofy romantic comedy, but that’s the real story at husband-and-wife-owned M.H. Bread and Butter in San Anselmo. Considering the bakery sells upwards of 200 loaves daily, it’s safe to say they are doing something right. Why is the food so popular? It likely has to do with Nathan Yanko’s eight-year tenure at Tartine or Devon Yanko’s specialty croissants and rolls, or maybe it’s the iced coffee made with coffee ice cubes. The origin of the bakery’s name, however, is not so mysterious. It pays homage to Nathan’s great-grandfather. mhbreadandbutter.com

VILLAGE PEOPLE Lucky for Fairfax, the beloved former Sushi Ran chef Scott Whitman and a group of talented Marin-based restaurateur partners opened Village Sake, an izakaya (a Japanesestyle community pub) on Bolinas Street. Not so lucky are the folks trying to get one of the 12 tables any time after 6 p.m. Here’s the hack: show up at 5 p.m., give your cellphone number, get a drink somewhere in town and they’ll text you when your table is ready. villagesake.com

L.A. NORTH

Salad Addiction

The Chinese chicken salad, when done right, is a crunchy, light and slightly sweet treat/meal that becomes a craving. Fun fact: the origins of this popular dish can be traced to Marin’s Cecilia Chiang, who opened the Mandarin restaurant in San Francisco in 1961. For a perfected version of the dish, ask anyone and you’ll find Comforts in San Anselmo tops the list. And for those in the southern part of the county, Kitti’s Place in Sausalito serves up a just-as-tasty option. comfortscafe.com, kittisplace.com

DEBRA TARRANT (THIS PAGE)

Farmshop — which was started in Santa Monica — has been bringing the farm-totable movement and all its trappings to Larkspur’s Marin Country Mart since 2013. And sure, the avocado hummus, crispy artichokes and crispier pizza have people coming back again and again, but the atmosphere might just be the real attraction. If you’ve been to Farmshop on a weekend evening, enjoying drinks on the patio while a band plays in the courtyard, you know what we mean; if not, we know what you are doing next weekend. farmshopca.com

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A Parisian Patty

How does a French bistro in San Anselmo get the award for something as American as a cheeseburger? It’s all about the accoutrements. L’Appart Resto serves up its one-third-pound organic grass-fed burgers with carefully selected ingredients like caramelized onions, butter lettuce, tomato and Morbier cheese. All this deliciousness gets wedged inside a ciabatta bun slathered with aioli. Bon appétit. lappartresto.com

HIGH-FLYING FRY

Establishments that have made a delicious departure from the basic fry. F3 Dauphines, Sausalito Farmshop Crispy Marble Potatoes, Larkspur HopMonk Tavern Sweet Potato Fries, Novato Molina Kennebec Fries, Mill Valley Super Duper Garlic Fries, Mill Valley Terrapin Crossroads Sweet Potato Latkes, San Rafael

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Liquids are key to survival. Some make us healthier while others seem to make us more interesting, beautiful and hilarious. However, as with anything in excess, too much can have negative effects, so imbibe these vetted picks with caution.

Buckeye Roadhouse has been around since, well, since roadhouses were a thing. And a martini tastes best when prepared by a classic bartender (read: clad in vest with tie) in a classic gin joint (read: clad in oak wood paneling). So, once again, we choose Mill Valley’s Buckeye Roadhouse bar for high honors. Score a seat at one of the six red-leather booths, and the taste improves exponentially. buckeyeroadhouse.com

TWO, PLEASE A cocktail doesn’t have to break the bank, and at Smitty’s in Sausalito bar-goers have appreciated their well-priced well drinks for decades. While the prices have gone up just a bit since the opening in 1938, it’s hard to beat the value of a vodka-and-soda here. You can buy two cocktails and “dinner” (beer

nuts or chips) with a $20 bill and still have plenty of change for a game of pool and a generous tip. smittysbar.com

HOME BREWED In the past decade myriad companies have started making and selling kombucha, and that increase in production shouldn’t come as a big surprise — kombucha has been touted as a magical elixir, with claims asserting that it does everything from reducing gray hair growth to helping prevent cancer. So naturally, it was only a matter of time before Marin got its own subtly effervescent, vinegary panacea, and last year it did, with San Rafael–based Marin Kombucha. The company sets itself apart from competitors by aging the tea in charred oak barrels to enhance the flavor and healing properties of the drink. The kombuchas come in versions like original oak, apple juniper, pinot sage,

ginger lemongrass and seasonal varietals like melon rose. All teas are brewed and distributed locally, with a limited capacity of 2,000 gallons per month in order to maintain small batches throughout the fermentation process. marinkombucha.com

BOOZE FLOATS Even after a burger, fries, side salad and beer, dessert can look enticing, but you just don’t have room. So sometimes it comes down to sacrifices: nix the beer and opt for a milkshake, or vice versa. But the geniuses at San Anselmo’s Farm Burger have put an end to that debate with a line of adult floats. Consolidate your desire for a buzz and a treat and order a Golden State Cider, complete with a generous dollop of ice cream on top, or move even closer to dessert with a Young’s Chocolate Stout or Wells Banana Bread beer. Sometimes you can have it all. farmburger.net

COURTESY URBAN REMEDY (JUICE)

A TRUE CLASSIC

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Thirst Games Enjoy your liquid calories and burn them off t the same time.

DRINK THE RAINBOW

GREEN Hulk Bayside Cafe Sausalito TERRAPIN CROSSROADS Bocce, anyone? If the draw of Phil Lesh, a vibrant music venue and an expansive outdoor space aren’t enough to bring you to this San Rafael venue, then perhaps a game of bocce is. terrapincrossroads.net

PELICAN INN Beer, bangers and a round of darts — what more do you need? Not a thing. But a location that’s but a stone’s throw from the Pacific in Muir Beach, well, that’s a bonus. pelicaninn.com

BREAKERS CAFE Cornhole and pool enthusiasts take the games — and their drinking — seriously. So if you love cocktails and competition on a lazy Sunday afternoon, this Stinson Beach classic is for you. stinsonbeachcafe.com

BAR BOCCE Come for a spirited game of bocce ball in Sausalito, but stay for one of the constantly changing selection of craft beers and a delicious meal served up with sweeping views of Richardson Bay. barbocce.com

PHOTO CREDIT

State Room

Sports fans adore Alex and Lisa Stricker’s Flatiron Saloon. But after four years of running this beloved local haunt on San Rafael’s B Street, the husbandand-wife duo upped their game and opened sister restaurant State Room Brewery earlier this year. The new pub right up the street offers patrons close to a dozen beers on tap, all of which are brewed in house. Foodwise, classic pub fare is punched up to fulfill the Strickers’ idea of a farm-totable gastropub. The classic fry basket, for example, features organic hand-cut potatoes dressed with green garlic, herbs and dry Jack cheese served with a side of housemade harissa hot sauce. Stately indeed. stateroombrewery.com

PURPLE Firmly Rooted Juice Girl Mill Valley YELLOW Apple Lemon Ginger drink Juice Shop Corte Madera RED Beet Apple Ginger drink Whole Foods Novato ORANGE After Party Urban Remedy San Rafael

PINK Grapefruit Mint Pressed Juicery Larkspur

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What makes a house a home and a county a community? The following establishments, locales and activities give us a place to congregate and enjoy the company of fellow Marinites. READ AND WRITE Started by Bill and Elaine Petrocelli in 1976, Book Passage, the Corte Madera bookstore and outright community institution, has possibly exceeded even its initial goals. Sure, the selection of books is impressive, but it is everything else the store does that puts it on top. A huge staff helps facilitate more than 700 author events a year — you heard that right — in every conceivable subject. The Martian author Andy Weir and HGTV stars the Property Brothers were recent crowd pleasers. And as if that isn’t enough, the store even gives you the tools to publish your own books with conferences and classes on writing, editing and the business of books. bookpassage.com

SWEAT NOW There are very few parking lots that fill up before dawn, especially here in Marin, but Susan Hauser’s New Om World in Corte Madera changes all that starting at 6 a.m. As most of us are still sleeping, Hauser, famous for her rock ’n’ roll approach to yoga and/or Lori Holscher, who teaches a more traditional, shoes required, butt burner, pack the house. And for good reason — after walking in dronelike, carrying a rolled-up mat and possibly a coffee, the crowd leaves chatting, dripping sweat and ready for the day. newomworld.com

GAME NIGHT You’d be hard-pressed to find a more packed event calendar than the one at Gamescape North in San Rafael. Weekly gaming meet-ups range from Dungeons and Dragons (D&D for the initiated) to Magic the Gathering and include board game demos too, putting reclusive gamer stereotypes to rest. And that’s barely scratching the surface. With a focus on building community and expanding creativity, store owners Andre Sisneros and Darren Layne bring together a diverse group of people every night of the week for all kinds of conversation, inspiration and fun. gamescape-north.com

Standing O

We were saddened to learn that Once Around made its last lap as we were wrapping up the August issue. However, it was the perfect time for us to give Julie Stanton and her crew a well-deserved standing ovation for helping the community of Mill Valley (and beyond) to make Pinterest-worthy crafts for nearly a decade. The impressive stock of textiles, quirky doodads and art supplies was only a small part of why we loved this place. The true value came from the store’s ongoing papier-mâché, knitting or needlepoint classes. It was a place for kindred crafters to gather. oncearound.com

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Up ’n’ Over

Hitting both marks on the “oldie and goodie” designation, this century-old race is much more than a competition to see who can run from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach the fastest. Every second Sunday in June, more than 1,500 run the Dipsea, dozens volunteer and hundreds wait at the finish line as longtime announcer Barry Spitz welcomes the finishers. You don’t have to be in any of these aforementioned categories to enjoy the fun — there’s always the joy of people-watching. dipsea.org

LARKSPUR LIVING GREEN There’s a transit revolution taking place in Larkspur. Of course there’s the ferry, but this year marks three more earth-friendly additions: the newly completed bike-pedestrian bridge over East Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, the arrival of the New Wheel electric bike shop and the SMART train that’s due to start running at the end of the year. With all these alternatives in place, encouraging people to ditch the car has never been more enticing. Who knows, the lower traffic volume might even help convince those of us who haven’t yet made the switch. newwheel.net, sonomamarintrain.org

BIRDS OF A FEATHER Every December since 1975, a group of people has been gathering in southern Marin to participate in the Marin Audubon Society’s annual Christmas bird count. The count, which is open to all and free, is a part of a larger census of birds in the Western Hemisphere and helps scientists track populations. So whether you’re an avid birder or are looking for a new holiday family tradition, check out this long-running one. marinaudubon.org

EVERYONE LOVES A PARADE

And Marin has its share of heartwarming community pride processions. These top the list. Bolinas Fourth of July Parade Corte Madera Fourth of July Parade Mill Valley’s Memorial Day Parade San Rafael Lighted Boat Parade Sausalito Lighted Boat Parade

Take the Mic

PHOTO CREDIT

We all have to start somewhere. These open mics offer anyone the chance to be a star for the night. FENIX In San Rafael at the Pro Blues Jam, the Fenix Band pays tribute to a famous artist or genre. Guests are invited to join and can get a video of their performance for $25. fenixlive.com

HOPMONK TAVERN Every single Wednesday, burgeoning performers head to HopMonk Novato’s Session Room and try to make it big. Artists get eight minutes max or two songs, whichever comes first. hopmonk. com/novato

PERI’S It’s only fair that this Fairfax bar known for nightly music performances gives the community a chance to show what they can do, and every Monday, it does. perisbar.com

SWEETWATER MUSIC HALL Austin de Lone hosts this open mic night most Mondays in Mill Valley. Contact the venue before 4 p.m. to sign up. sweetwater musichall.com

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In a county known to have a bit of discretionary income, it’s no surprise people love to shop. These spots have what you need or what you didn’t know you needed.

THE SPICE OF LIFE Fairfax Variety more than lives up to its name. Need something for the kitchen (a spatula, mixer, place mats)? Something for the kids (school supplies, party hats, science projects)? How about matching goodie bags, paddleballs, a Mrs. Potato Head, rubber chickens, key rings or a broom? You’ll find it all here. 415.457.2580

HAPPY TOES Soxalito of Sausalito has fun gifts that actually have a purpose. This place stocks socks in every imaginable color in styles that appeal to every imaginable personality. Plus, as gift-giver you sidestep the awkward question of size, since choices here are mostly one fits all. soxalito.com

ORGANIC OASIS If any store could exemplify Marin at its best, it’s Good Earth Natural Foods, which from a Fairfax storefront in 1969 became one of the county’s first retailers devoted to locally

sourced organic food. Recently owners Mark Squire and Al Baylacq opened a second location in Tamalpais Valley, an area that’s been without a grocery store since DeLano’s market shuttered in 2010. Good Earth’s commitment to community takes many forms: donations to local schools, lobbying for transparency about products made with GMOs, hosting educational speakers and culinary demos. Oh, and the hot-bar foods are a lifesaver for timecrunched families. genatural.com

HOMESPUN TREASURE

ADORBS ABODE Good things are worth waiting for, and after 13 months of construction, Abode Marin has opened its 112-inch-tall glass doors on Larkspur’s Magnolia Avenue. Founder and Marin-based interior designer Julia Robberts (two b’s) started the shop geared to home-dwellers and the professionals who help them create their dream space. Our favorite part of the showroom is the buildyour-own-pillow station, like Build-a-Bear for adults. abodemarin.com

Mill Valley resident Margaret O’Leary began selling her hand-loomed knitwear to Bay Area boutiques in 1990 when she emigrated here from Ireland. Within a year, Barneys discovered her and orders multiplied. The knitwear line grew into a full collection, which led O’Leary to open her first store on San Francisco’s Claude Lane. Now there are 14 Margaret O’Leary boutiques on the East and West Coast, including the Mill Valley flagship store. “My motto is ‘Live every day in style,’ and by that I mean the Marin lifestyle, which so often involves a blend of activities, from work to kids,” O’Leary says. margaretoleary.com

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Great Gifts Need that notion or potion for your next fete? Here are our top picks in six towns. LARKSPUR HUDSON GRACE They have done the thinking for you; you just have to put down your card and take home the gift of grace. hudsongracesf.com MILL VALLEY TERRESTRA Brightly colored home goods, sparkles and more. terrestra.com WEATHERED NEST Everything from metallic tattoos to housewarming

Creative Curation

“Beach This Way” signs to sparkling rings galore. weatherednest.net

Composed of 7 on Locust, Kress, Henrybuilt, Poet and the Bench and the Parlor, this newly formed area — christened the Mill Valley Design District — features everything from clothing, jewelry, vintage goods and antiques to an eco-friendly hair salon. In no other place in the county could you design your kitchen and bath, then walk next door and try on some equestrian-inspired fashion. Regular events include launch and block parties, talks and trunk shows.

POINT REYES TOBY’S FEED BARN Give the essence of West Marin with a pick from Toby’s well-curated range. tobysfeedbarn.com SAN ANSELMO FIG GARDEN Surprisingly great prices and lots of fun

Bustling Boutiques

items like jewelry, candles and capes. 415.457.9443

Look your best with help from any one of the only-in-Marin retailers. BRANDED Natalie Boatright, a Marin Catholic and Academy of Art University alumna, opened this boutique with Kannyn January, owner of San Francisco's Ambiance stores. 415.888.2135

FAMOUS4 This Mill Valley men’s and women’s store began in 1986 as Famous For Our Look and spotlights local designers alongside fine international labels. famous4.net

KOZE Led by Darla Fisher, this Tiburon shop offers more than 50 years of combined staff retail expertise. Look for labels with a heart-shaped flag indicating the product is made in America. getkoze.com

UKO Known for clothes by designers from Europe, Japan and Korea as well as the U.S., UKO originated in San Francisco in 1988 and now has a Mill Valley store. ukoboutique.com

VIVA DIVA Since 1997, owner Amy Anderson has run this downtown San Rafael shop aiming to provide an honest, encouraging and “girl-friendy” space. vivadivaboutique.com

SAUSALITO SAUSALITO FERRY COMPANY Unique toys and goods to make you laugh and possibly blush. sausalitoferry.com TIBURON CHRISTOPHER’S HOME Unique nautical-themed gifts and much more. christopher-salon.com M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 51

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In a studio, outside, on the water or on the roads, Marin has many exciting, fun and often scenic exercise options. Here are some you won’t want to miss.

FORE The best golf spot in Marin County is a championship course with lush greens, fairways and practice facilities, including the county’s only all-grass driving range. Peacock Gap Golf Club in San Rafael also earns high marks for being less hilly than others and offering beautiful vistas. Throw in a new fleet of golf carts equipped with GPS yardage systems and the ability to order food at the touch of a button, and you have a true duffer’s dream. But that’s not all: there’s a clubhouse perfect for meetings or weddings, along with daily food specials and occasional live music at RangeCafe Bar and Grill. peacockgapgolfclub.com

the way to seasoned vets. Prizes go to the top three finishers in each division and age range, but the emphasis is more on fun. A post-race brunch includes salads, pastas, hot dogs and local beer. Friends hang out and friends are made. What’s not to like? 101surfsports.com

HANDLEBAR HEROES Mike’s Bikes doesn’t exist simply to sell bikes — the company works tirelessly to bolster all aspects of the cycling community. This means free maintenance workshops, organized group rides and the work of the Mike’s Bikes Foundation, which helps bring bikes to communities in Africa where walking is the only transportation. That the Bay Area stores, including two in Marin, are staffed by friendly

NAMASTAYING OUTSIDE Outdoor yoga is all about harmonizing with nature, and to that end there’s no better studio than Marin’s great outdoors. Yoga Ventures has classes combining yoga with a hike from Rodeo Beach that ends on a hilltop platform overlooking the Tennessee Valley beach. Prefer to stretch at sea level? Swap your mat for a stand-up paddleboard and find your balance on the water at OnBoardSUP yoga. Classes launch daily from behind the Bay Model visitor center in Sausalito. yogaventures.org, onboardsup.com

and knowledgeable salespeople — well, that’s

WIN THE RACE

the icing on the cake. mikesbikes.com

This small business of the year recently opened a shop in the South Bay, but it’s also still business as usual at 101 Surf Sports in San Rafael. On any given day you’ll find a group of good people living a fun, healthy life out on the water; here you can buy the gear or goods needed to join them. Best of all are the races: for the past four years, folks with outrigger canoes, surf skis, kayaks, prone paddleboards and SUPs have all been gathering at the start of fall to traverse 2- to 7-mile courses — competing in races for beginners all

TREKKING TAMALPAIS With seven state parks and about 18,500 acres of open space, the opportunities to explore in Marin seem endless, possibly overwhelming. But there’s a good guided resource for at least one locale: the Friends of Mt. Tam hold hikes for all levels on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, with weekly themes and a special Saturday moonlight hike that occurs, you guessed it, under a full moon. friendsofmttam.org

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Flex, Bend, Twist

We asked, you answered, we vetted and now we share. Here’s a sample of some of the classes taught by Marin’s top instructors. Exercise your mind by matching these instructors with their studios.✽ TIME

SUNDAY

MONDAY

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

6 a.m.–9 a.m.

8 – Wendy 8:30 – TJ 9:45 – Maggie

6 – Susan 6:15 – TJ 6:30 – Ed, JT 7 – Steph

6 – Lori, Steph 6:15 – TJ 6:30 – Becca, JT

6 – Susan 6:15 – TJ

6 – Steph, Lori 6:30 – Anne-Marie

6 – Susan 6:15 – TJ 6:30 – JT 7 – Steph 8 – Lori 8:30 – Ed

7:30 – Steph 8 – JT, Mandy

9 a.m.–noon

9 – Jessica 9:30 – Susan 11 – Christian, TJ 11:45 – Steph

9 – Susan 9:15 – Mandy 9:30 – Nikki, TJ 10:30 – Mandy

9 – Annie, Nikki, Rich 9:30 – Lesley 10:15 – Heather 10:30 – Nina 11:15 – Nikki

9:30 – Nikki 10 – JT 10:15 – Valerie

9 – JT, Susan, Nikki 9:30 – Ana, Lesley 9:50 – Anne-Marie 10 – Annie 11:30 – Becca

9 – JT, Heather 9:15 – Jessica 9:30 – Nikki, Grace, TJ 9:50 – Anne-Marie 10:30 – Mandy 11 – Anne-Marie

9 – JT, Susan, Mandy 10 – Becca 11 – Christian

12 – Nina 1 – Becca

12 – TJ

12 – Lori 1 – Becca

12 – Ed, Mandy

12 – Becca

4:30 – Ed, Christian

Noon–3 p.m.

3 p.m.–6 p.m.

4 – Nina, Steph 4:30 – Ed, TJ

5:30 – TJ

5 – Susan

4:30 – Ed 5 – TJ

4:30 – Wendy 5:30 – TJ

4:30 – Ed 5 – Christain

6 p.m.–plus

7 – Nina

6:30 – Ed 7 – Nina

6:30 – Becca

6:15 – Christian 7 – Nina

6 – TJ 6:30 – Becca

6 – Ed

NEW OM WORLD (Corte Madera) newomworld.com Susan Hauser, Yoga Christian Allaire, Yoga Lori Holscher, TRXFuse Heather McKenzie, SHRED RIPPED BODY FITNESS (Mill Valley) rippedbodyfit.com JT Peterson, Cardio Strength Training

RED DRAGON YOGA (Mill Valley, San Rafael) reddragonyoga.com Ed Levinson, Yoga Becca Sogge, Yoga Wendy Medeiros, Yoga YOGAWORKS (Larkspur, Novato) yogaworks.com Lesley Desaulniers, In Studio Nikki Estrada, Yoga

ROCO DANCE STUDIO (Mill Valley, Fairfax) rocodance.com Annie Rosenthal Parr, Parr Technique Ana Hyatt, Pilates Mat Class PURE BARRE (Mill Valley, San Rafael) purebarre.com Mandy Goepp, Pure Barre Nina Falls, Pure Barre

LOLA (Mill Valley) teamlola.com Rich Juarez, Fast Pass

MARIN POWER YOGA (San Anselmo) marinpoweryoga.com Grace Yu, Yoga

NOVATO YMCA (Novato) ymcasf.org Valerie Harbidge, INSANITY

THE DAILEY METHOD (Novato) thedaileymethod.com Anne-Marie McMahan, Dailey Interval Maggie Calegari, Dailey Barre

SOULCYCLE (Larkspur) soulcycle.com Steph Peters, SoulCycle

✽

BAY CLUB MARIN (Corte Madera) bayclubs.com Jessica Frangione, Rhythm Ride TJ’S GYM (Corte Madera, San Rafael, Mill Valley) tjsgym.com TJ Belger, Crossfit

CLASS TIMES VARY. ORANGE INDICATES A FREE CLASS.

Play Date

As the name implies, Playland of Sausalito is nonstop fun for young children. Besides four inflatable jumpy houses, it features an air-hockey table, cars, a toddler zone and big bouncy balls. Just off he main area, a quieter alcove serves as an art room with reading tables, coloring books and three train tables. There’s free coffee for parents, and children receive a balloon animal on departure. mttamadventures.com/playland-sausalito M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 53

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We’ve all heard that beauty is only skin deep and is in the eye of the beholder, but that doesn’t mean we can’t help it along a bit. Here are a few top spots for healthy pampering and a few of our favorite products.

Take the Day

Splurge on your well-being at Cavallo Point’s Healing Arts Center and Spa in Sausalito. The 60-minute signature facial will set you back $165, a chakra cleansing and balancing $250, and a two-hour Thai massage $350. But it’s money well spent, especially if you take advantage of the day-use amenities, which include a heated meditation pool, eucalyptus steam, fitness room and morning yoga class. Alternately, you can buy a day pass for just $65 — it doesn’t cover any spa services but does provide access to the amenities. Not a bad way to spend the day. cavallopoint.com

MASSAGE CLUB Sausalito resident Kayse Gehret did not come up with the concept of massage at affordable, accessible prices, but she is working to perfect it. Her first Soulstice Mind + Body Spa location in Santa Rosa employs the same folks as the big-name wine country spas at half the cost to the client, and now, at her Sausalito location therapists have already created their own followings. Membership starts at $69 a month for a one-hour massage whenever you want it — if you don’t use it, the hour rolls to the next month and can even be gifted to a friend. 415.729.9121

NOVATO NATURAL Andalou Naturals is not just the best-selling natural skin care brand in the nation — sold in more than 11,000 retail locations and in more than 22 countries worldwide — it also started right here in Novato. Husband-and-wife Marin natives Stacey and Mark Egide, the co-CEOs and

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Color Me Healthy

founders, have made it their mission to raise the bar in the natural beauty industry for the past 30 years and counting. Andalou products are Non-GMO Project verified, certified organic, fair trade, gluten free, cruelty free, and certified vegetarian and vegan … and 100 percent good for you to use daily. andalou.com

ONE-STOP SALON Modern life is complicated. There’s always a bill to be paid, car maintenance to be done or a relative’s birthday you forgot about till a Facebook reminder popped up. And maintenance extends beyond vehicles and yards; we require it, too. Lots of different kinds. Fortunately, Milvali salon — in, you guessed it, Mill Valley — does a good job of simplifying that process. Here myriad beauty needs are met: hair styling and waxing, facial and lash treatments, tanning and makeup application. Operating for more than a decade, Milvali has also amassed numerous awards (including this one), most notably for hair extensions. Truly a full-service spot for a complete tune-up. milvali.com

Evo Spa, pronounced “eh voh,” as in evolution, belies its strip mall exterior. For more than two decades, Gail Ann and her crew have treated Marin’s tired, sore and weary with a variety of modalities. The Mill Valley spa offers unique treatments such as a FarInfrared Sauna, said to not only remove heavy metals and fat-soluble toxins but burn up to 600 calories per session; BioMat, included with every massage and developed by NASA, which employs negative ion therapy to vitalize cell metabolism and an amethyst quartz crystal to detoxify; and for the face, the multihued LED light treatment, intended to rejuvenate, stimulate collagen production, address bad acne and promote a more vibrant and youthful complexion. evo-spa.com

Noteworthy Nails

CLEAN ’N’ GO No one said beauty comes cheap — but it can come easy. And with the opening of International Orange Spa at Marin Country Mart, it just got even easier. Besides the large new space offering facials and massage, here you can buy Preserve Pads, the brainchild of IO estheticians Jennifer Gallegos and Jennie Hearn. The duo created these easy-to-use disposable pads to encourage their busy clients to wash their faces — apparently an important step in maintaining the benefits of a facial. And for those worried about waste, these pleasantsmelling discs are 100 percent biodegradable and made with natural ingredients. A jar of 45 pads retails for $38; refill packages are $31. internationalorange.com

The tip of your finger is a great place to show a little style. Here are five places that will keep your nails looking their best. DOLLS & DANDY This new Mill Valley salon offers services for men and women (as the name implies) as well as a monthly membership where unused services roll over and don’t expire. dollsanddandy.com

FAIRFAX NAIL SALON Whether it’s a manicure, a pedicure or a gel manicure, the quality of work here is first-rate. With an expansive polish selection and rose-petal footbaths, you can’t go wrong. 415.456.9701

NJ NAILS SPA Pricing is competitive at this Novato salon, but no corners are cut — all the tools come in wrapped sterile packages. High standards, plus catering to clients’ needs and a winning hospitality, make NJ Nails tops. 415.717.9775

POLISH NAIL SALON Offering gel extensions — a less toxic and longer-lasting alternative to acrylics — Polish is one of San Rafael’s best salons. Expect water, tea and courtesy. 415.258.9218

SAUSALITO NAIL SALON At this establishment you’ll find a professional and friendly staff and an even better quality of service. The cleanliness and the skill of manicurists are also exemplary. 415.332.1689

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Point Reyes Days

As the national park system celebrates its centennial, Marin’s incomparable national seashore faces promise and controversy. BY PETE R FISH • PHOTOS BY JACK WOLFORD

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o experience summer morning at its most beautiful, Point Reyes National Seashore’s Estero Trail is hard to beat. You park at the trailhead, you follow the path through grasslands. A rabbit leaps out of your way. California quail skitter. Cattle stand silhouetted on a far hillside and above them spreads a John Constable sky: white, buxom clouds, flashes of sunlight. In 10 minutes you’re there: the estero, gray mudflats ribboned with silver water flowing toward Drakes Bay. As the place name indicates, there’s history here — it’s said that somewhere along this inlet Sir Francis Drake became the first European to bump into California. There is also an abiding sense of serenity. That serenity may be deceptive. The San Andreas Fault runs a few miles to the east; this entire peninsula is being yanked away from the North American continent. Sir Francis Drake? The location of his landing spot has sparked ferocious arguments for decades, even if the park service is commemorating him with a marker here later this year. The national seashore itself was the product of fierce debates. And those cows? They’re a controversy all to themselves. It’s a beautiful place, Point Reyes National Seashore. But this year, as the National Park Service celebrates its 100th birthday — the official date is August 25 — it faces big questions about what the next century will hold. JOHN DELL’OSSO IS HAPPY to enumerate all the ways Point Reyes National Seashore is special. “There’s the abundance of human and natural resources,” he says in his office at park headquarters in Bear Valley. “Eighteen percent of all the flowering plant species in California are found here. Fifty-two percent of the bird species in all of North America have been seen here. We have 60 species of mammals, both marine and terrestrial. Then you go to the human history side with the Coast Miwok people, who have been here

Limantour Beach is a long and narrow spit of sand between Drakes Bay and an estuary.

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Eighteen percent of all the flowering plant species in California are found here. Fiftytwo percent of the bird species in all of North America have been seen here.

This page: The winding path to Kehoe Beach. Opposite, clockwise from left: The historic Point Reyes Lighthouse; an aerial showing Tomales Point; horseback riding at Wildcat.

for 3,000 to 5,000 years. Do you have that diversity in other national parks? In some. But not many.” Dell’Osso may be biased. As Point Reyes’ chief of interpretation and resource education, he’s in charge of the helping the public understand the seashore. And this slice of California has been his life: he’s worked here for 30 years. Still, Dell’Osso isn’t indulging in hyperbole. The seashore is a special place. Its 70,000 acres include 33,000 acres of wilderness and 80 miles of coastline that range from sheltered to craggy. Its high points may not wow with sheer elevation (Mount Vision rises only 1,280 feet) but the views are to die for. So beautiful is this place that it’s easy to think, well, of course it’s been protected. In fact, the battle to bring Point Reyes into the national park system was hard-fought. To understand why, you have to travel back in time to 1960. The years previous had been boom ones for Marin County and for the entire Bay Area. Between 1950 and 1960, Marin grew f rom

87,700 residents in 1950 to 148,800, and many hoped for even faster growth in the future. Much of the new development was concentrated along Highway 101. But builders looked at West Marin and said, why not develop there too? Suburban dreams blossomed. Marincello, the 150,000-person city planned for the Marin Headlands, was the most famous. But in Point Reyes projects like Drakes Bay Estates — “an exclusive recreational and residential beach development” — were nearing approval. Citizen groups like the Point Reyes National Seashore Foundation rose up to f ight the plans — by making Point Reyes a national park. It wasn’t easy. One challenge: the park service itself. Traditionally, national parks had celebrated singular natural wonders like Yellowstone’s geysers or Sequoia’s giant redwoods. However ecologically important, the more subtle beauties of an unspoiled coastline were a new priority. And local opposition was fierce. Point Reyes had a century-old heritage of cattle and dairy ranching. W hile many

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TIM PORTER (LIGHTHOUSE); COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE (AERIAL)

Point Reyes Essentials

THE POINT REYES LIGHTHOUSE The 1870-vintage light station has insane Pacific views and now the small but engaging Ocean Discovery Center to go with its existing exhibits. West end of Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, 20 miles west of Bear Valley Visitor Center. Open Friday– Monday, but check nps.gov/ pore for current hours.

RCA COAST STATION On Sir Francis Drake Boulevard 10 miles west of Bear Valley Visitor Center — watch for North District Operation Center sign. Open noon–4 p.m., Saturdays.

POINT REYES YOUTH HOSTEL Park access is unparalleled, the price is right — from $29 for a dorm bed to $105 for a private room — and the ambience is IKEAinviting, not aged hippie. norcalhostels.org/reyes

ESTERO TRAIL The seashore is laced with good trails, but this one is especially appealing — it’s short (two miles round-trip if you go only to the bridge over the estero) and easy, and the views are lovely. Off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard about two miles past Pierce Point Road; follow signs to trailhead.

KAYAKING Blue Waters Kayaking leads tours of Tomales Bay and Drakes Estero; bluewaterskayaking.com. Other outfitters running tours include Point Reyes Outdoors, pointreyesoutdoors.com.

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BY MIDMORNING, POINT REYES is busy. At the Bear Valley trailhead, a Union City Boy Scout troop is putting on backpacks, ready for the trek to Sky Camp, one of the seashore’s three backcountry camps. At Point Reyes Hostel, Nancy Reynolds directs guests to the Laguna Trail. The backpackers and the hostel guests are spending the night, of course. But most of the seashore’s 2.5 million annual visitors are daytrippers, here for only two to six hours. “That’s always been a challenge for us,” Dell’Osso says. How do you get people to appreciate the park, when they’re so pressed for time? The seashore depends on educational showmanship, like the new Ocean Exploration Center that opened at Point Reyes Lighthouse in June. And on the cadre of volunteer docents who explain everything from whales to wildflowers. Point Reyes can grab your attention all on its own, of course. It may not have geysers or giant sequoias, but it has its subdued grandeur. Walk Limantour Beach or hike Inverness Ridge, and you find yourself thinking, this is

The seashore is a special place. Its 70,000 acres include 33,000 acres of wilderness and 80 miles of coastline that range from sheltered to craggy.

Opposite: A tree-lined path near Wildcat Beach. This page: John F. Kennedy signs the bill establishing Point Reyes National Seashore.

NATIONAL ARCHIVES

ranchers supported the seashore, others saw an unwanted federal takeover of their lands. The Marin Independent Journal ran a commentary entitled “Point Reyes Seashore? No!” and San Francisco radio station KCBS broadcast its own editorial saying that scrubby Point Reyes wasn’t pretty enough to preserve. Working with sympathetic representatives like Congressman Clem Miller and Sen. Clair Engle, the preservationists fought back. One potent weapon was a book, Island in Time: The Point Reyes Peninsula, by science journalist Harold Gilliam with photography by Philip Hyde. In his introduction, Gilliam wrote, “By some incredible aberration, this area has escaped, thus far, the frenetic tides of human activity that elsewhere in the region have erased the evidence of history, the plant and animal life, the natural forms of the land. This is the Point Reyes Peninsula — Island in Time.” It must have helped: President John F. Kennedy signed the bill establishing Point Reyes National Seashore on September 13, 1962.

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why I live in Northern California. You realize that Point Reyes offers that most valuable travel experience of all: when you’re there, you aren’t thinking about anyplace else.

This page: Sand and surf at Limantour Beach. Opposite: Point Reyes is the only U.S. national park where tule elk can be found.

POINT REYES IS BIG enough to contain surprises. There are the well-known attractions: Point Reyes Lighthouse, the tule elk that graze at the seashore’s north end. But there are also quirkier finds. The poignant Life-Saving Service Cemetery. The stable of Morgan horses. (“They’re getting on,” Dell’Osso says. “But the head of the park service rode one of them in the Rose Parade this year.”) And, on the way to the lighthouse, one particular treasure: the old RCA wireless receiving station. From 1929 into the 1990s this station handled communications for ships all across the Pacific. Stop by on Saturday af ternoon and you’ll see headphone-wearing volunteer radio operators working as if it were 1938.

Chief Operator Richard Ullman will show you an impressive array of radio equipment and artifacts like the copy of the logbook in which the station transcribed the first news of the attack on Pearl Harbor — the Day of Infamy announced in Morse code. THAT’S THE THING about Point Reyes — as much as it might not want to be, it is connected to the rest of the world. It’s an island in time, but time washes over it, and changes in the outside world eventually make themselves known here, like messages f loating on radio waves across the Pacific. One recent 21st-century challenge, Dell’Osso says, was the crowd-sourced crisis at the trailhead in Palomarin, in the south end of the park. “We started getting overwhelmed with visitors.” Social media sleuthing revealed the cause. “It turned out when people Google-mapped ‘How do I get to Point Reyes National Seashore’ from

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What’s Next? The National Park System looks at the the next hundred years.

JOSEPH SCHELL

The National Park System celebrates its 100th birthday this month. But the NPS — and all the people and groups who love and use national parks — are also asking questions about what the parks’ priorities for the next century should be. These are the most important trends.

anyplace in San Francisco or south, they were told to go to Palomarin Trailhead,” Dell’Osso explains. “We had to contact Google and ask, ‘can you direct people to Bear Valley instead?’ ” There have been other, more serious conflicts — notably how to balance the seashore’s mandate to preserve the natural environment with its tradition of allowing agriculture use. Two years ago, the battle over Drakes Bay Oyster Company made headlines as the park service refused to extend the lease of the oyster farm on the grounds that it harmed the environmentally sensitive bay. Now a new fight is brewing over ranching operations. Dairy and cattle ranching have a long history here, and the legislation that established the seashore allowed it to continue. Ranching draws support both from area politicians and from groups like the Marin Agriculture Land Trust. But a trio of environmental groups — the Resource Renewal Institute, the Western Watersheds Institute and the Center for Biological Diversity — have brought suit against the park service, arguing that in the 21st century ranching may no longer be the best use of the land. The person in the hot seat over these issues is park superintendent Cecily Muldoon. She has an unusual perspective on Point Reyes. While her park service career has taken her all over the country, she grew up in Sausalito

— so coming here was a homecoming. Even the controversies, she says, have their upsides. “One thing you don’t find in Marin is apathy over public lands. It’s good to have a lot of passion around the parks, even when people disagree. Whatever one’s position on any subject might be, it’s rooted in the love for this extraordinary landscape.” IF YOU’RE LOOKING to experience evening at its most beautiful, a good place is on a kayak in Tomales Bay. The dusk light is different from the morning’s, with a soft mist blurring the bay, the calm shoreline and the forested slopes of Mount Vision — not Constable so much as Monet. We’re on a Blue Waters Kayaking trip led by guide Liz Wilhelm. She’s proof of the passion that Point Reyes can inspire — she has the outline of the peninsula tattooed on her calf. “Paddle now,” she says to the novice kayaker in the front of her boat. She says to be on the lookout for rays in the water and waterbirds like diving ducks. You paddle, you peer, you think that if any place deserved to be commemorated with a tattoo it’s this one. All the congressional fights, the arguments over oysters and cows were about this: the water, the shoreline, the distant mountain. You think, you may want to return tomorrow. And that when you do Point Reyes seashore will still be there. m

Make Parks More Relevant Traditionally, the prime audience for national parks has been white, middle class and middle aged. That no longer reflects California or the U.S., says Scott Gediman, chief public information officer at Yosemite. “It’s our responsibility to reach out to the next generation — to show them the value of parks. Otherwise, there’s no guarantee parks will still be protected.” One organization working hard to reach out is San Francisco–based NatureBridge, which offers educational programs in many California national parks. In Yosemite, its WildLink program takes kids from underserved populations and leads them on weeklong treks into the Sierra backcountry. “These are kids who haven’t been to a national park before, haven’t hiked before,” says Yosemite NatureBridge Director Kristina Rylands. “We provide all the gear and the food and they go out with our educators for a week. We want to connect them with the values of wilderness.” Citizen Science Parks are vital centers for environmental research and now, more than ever, ordinary citizens are helping out. “Citizen science has become a very powerful way for people without advanced training to help save nature,” says San Francisco environmental writer Mary Ellen Hannibal, whose book Citizen Scientist: Searching for Heroes and Hope in an Age of Extinction comes out this month. The California Academy of Sciences sponsors programs in many Northern California parks, using its iNaturalist mobile app. Restore, Restore, Restore Some of the best park news comes when the park service fixes damage done in the past. At Point Reyes National Seashore, restoration of the Giacomini Wetlands has increased the population of shorebirds like the least sandpiper; directors hope the seashore’s current dune restoration project will have equally beneficial effects. In Yosemite, restoration of the iconic Mariposa Grove of sequoias is scheduled for completion next year.

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PHOTO CREDIT

People have been walking through this Sausalito door for 50 years. One group has been doing so daily for a good portion of that time.

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K F A AST E R B

C L U B

Old and new friends have shared more than 10,000 morning meals at the same table.

★★★ BY TOM JAMES • PHOTOS BY JACK WOLFORD M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 65

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NEARLY HALF OF ALL meals in America are now eaten in solitude. Think about that number from the Food Marketing Institute for a minute. Because no doubt, you’ve contributed to that statistic. Eating, especially at breakfast, often means grabbing a quick bite solo and eating while standing up. It’s more utilitarian than social. But that’s not the case for a group of Marin locals. Almost daily, for at least 35 years, they’ve been meeting for breakfast at the unassuming Fred’s Place in Sausalito. Every weekday at 7 a.m. more or less the same attendees are in the same seats at the same round wooden table overlooking Bridgeway, where they eat pretty much the same meal as they had the day before. Every day. 7 a.m. For 35 years.

WHO IS AT

THE TABLE? ★★★

• DIETER RAPP is an interpreter and translator. Rapp, a child of post–World War II Germany, came to Sausalito at age 30 because it reminded him of French towns on the Mediterranean and stayed to enjoy the weather and liberal scene. He’s been at stammtisch some 40-odd years. • JOHN LIBBERTON, born in New Jersey in 1924 and raised in Chicago, is the oldest at the table. Currently he’s doing some jewelry making and is a sculptor but has been an advertising agency executive and a TV and radio voice-over artist. • RUTH SHELBY was born in Michigan, spent time in the Peace Corps, taught English in Turkey, came to San Francisco in 1966 and began teaching English as a

second language. She found her current partner Rodger on eHarmony in 2007 after he mentioned his long friendship with a group of men he meets for breakfast every day. She was impressed. • RODGER MARCH, an Ohio native, arrived in San Francisco in 1962 fresh from the navy. He moved to Sausalito in 1974 and lived on and built floating homes. After just a few weeks in Sausalito, he made Fred’s part of his morning routine. • JEFFREY K. WINN, born in Illinois in 1942, grew up in Ohio. In 1969 he moved to San Francisco to be manager of National Car Rental’s truck division, then moved to Sausalito in 1971. By 1972 he had his own truck rental company, which he sold in 2010. • WALTER G. WESTER was born in 1930 in Santa Rosa and moved to San Francisco in 1960 after a stint in the navy. He traveled extensively for various international business companies until 1982, when he semi-retired and began flying seaplane tours out of Mill Valley.

The regular cast of characters gathers around the stammtisch table in the corner; somebody has to get there first.

Imagine going to a restaurant today, then again tomorrow, and pretty much every day until 2051. That’s what’s happening at Fred’s Place. It must be the most incredible restaurant in the world, right? Well, Fred’s Place is good — people do love it. But it’s not every-day-for-35-years good. Nowhere is. Clearly, this gathering isn’t about the food. It is about the company.

THE HISTORY

That’s just how Fred Peters wanted it. Fifty years ago when the fine-hotel-and-restaurant-trained immigrant from Germany started a Sausalito hamburger joint called Fred’s Place, he wanted to create a social center as much as an eating establishment — so he also imported the German concept of stammtisch, or shared tables. He wanted a place someone could come in and comfortably sit down with strangers, stay a while and make a few new friends. Back in the mid-’60s when Fred started his place, Sausalito was a small waterfront-focused happy hippie haven of artists and revelers. It was a bunch of wharf rats mingling with local, soon-to-be-national icons such as Bill Graham, Francis Ford Coppola, the Grateful Dead and Janis Joplin. It was a scene. Fred himself was a big personality, “a force of nature” on the docks, as one of the current breakfast club member recalls. Those who came to Fred’s at first were just a funloving group who knew each other from the houseboat scene in Sausalito. Since Fred lived on a houseboat, the partygoers often ended up at Fred’s Place for breakfast. Fred’s was their dining room, living room and social hall all in one. “Fred had the foresight to have round tables — perfect for group gatherings and making everyone equals,” the regular says. “Plus there was always room for one more.” Nowadays, those revelers aren’t out all night and Fred has since passed away, succumbing to cancer in 1988 at age 53, but they’re all still coming into this one-room eatery at 1917 Bridgeway.

THE TABLE

If you get to Fred’s early enough, many people at the counter or at scattered tables are wearing baseball hats, hiding groggy faces and messy hair, hoping the day doesn’t find them. But no one at the stammtisch table wears that look anymore. Every person at the table is neatly groomed, bright-eyed and ready to go. “One of the best benefits of the early morning meal is that no one is drinking,” a stammtisch

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PHOTO CREDIT

Almost daily, for at least 35 years, they’ve been meeting for breakfast at the unassuming Fred’s Place in Sausalito.

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Above: This collage was made by Cynthia Lake and shows the membership from 1985 to '95. Below: Fred Peters photographed in the 1980s.

regular named Rodger notes. “People are at their brightest at the start of the day.” Other than the sturdy metal sign that says “Stammtisch,” you’ve seen tables like this before: round, heavy-worn oak, surrounded by a cast of characters that could easily be mistaken for poker tournament contestants. And like the poker players, those around the stammtisch are in many ways very much alike — all drawn to Sausalito via San Francisco in the ’60s as part of the baby boomer generation that defined San Francisco and later Marin. Now, all wiser, mellower and exuding a confident sense of having been there before: you get the feeling in their faces that

there is nothing they didn’t see when they were younger. It was after all, the ’60s and ’70s. This crowd was Marin before Marin was. As far as I can tell, there’s never been, until now, a photo of a meal taken at this table. That’s not to say the group is tech-averse. Phones are used to Google facts or show pictures previously taken. John Libberton, at 92 years old, has his complete sculpting portfolio on his iPhone, which he shows off frequently. But no one is texting, emailing or posting to Instagram. Any news these folks are getting is likely coming from one of the many newspapers littering the table, not from a Facebook feed on a smartphone. They go stretches without talking but it’s a comfortable quiet, with their eyes down in their respective New York Timeses, Wall Street Journals, Marin IJs and San Francisco Chronicles, eating their eggs. Then someone will put his paper down, his eyes will light up, and with a little introduction about what he just read, all the papers will be set aside and a new conversation will begin. So are they a group of burnt-out lonely hippies? Hardly. Among the roster are a Ph.D., a medical doctor, a plastic surgeon, a lawyer, an architect, a sailor, an interpreter, a houseboat builder, an inventor, a realtor, a builder, a craftsman, a teacher and many other professionals. There are no rules for the table. Anyone can talk about anything. One day a stammtischer mentioned to me that he records Rush Limbaugh daily and is a Trump supporter. This proclamation didn’t cause a single head to lift. The liberal side of the table kept reading and the conservative voice kept pushing: “Rush has been the most consistently intelligent voice on the radio for years.” Again, no one responded. They’ve heard it all before. One stammtischer confides that

EDDY ERA: THE FR

“WHAT DID YOU HAD?” ★★★

•

“Somehow, after 50 years, the spirit of Fred still endures,” longtime customer Dieter Rapp recalls laughingly. “But there are big differences — Fred’s never used to have checks. Fred would come around and in his thick German accent ask, ‘What did you had?’ after you were done eating. You’d tell him and he’d tell you what to pay.” Fred’s has never been that lonely coffee shop immortalized by Edward Hopper’s painting “Nighthawks.” Fred’s widow Christine saw to that. As the building owner, she made sure new leaseholders didn’t change things like pictures on the wall or the seating policy. “When the current owner of Fred’s bought the building we were scared,” Dieter admits. “Luckily he was smart enough not to change the character of the place. He made it better — new windows, new chairs, more food options ... but the spirit is the same.”

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STAMMTISCH

DISH ★★★

• WHAT DOES BREAKFAST AT THE STAMMTISCH TABLE PROVIDE FOR YOU? Dieter: Friendship, entertainment, feedback, information and a sounding board for ideas. Rodger: I like to have someone to talk to and share the morning paper — someone who will listen to my stories and laugh at my jokes. I like bright, witty, topical conversation with friends who know my history, and I know theirs. While I have that at home with Ruth, I still come in for the communal chats. Jeff: Friendship and stimulation. There are some good minds at this table. Ruth: A sense of belonging to an elite club of intelligent people who are a source of friendship and information. • ARE YOU FRIENDS OUTSIDE OF BREAKFAST AND WERE YOU FRIENDS BEFORE THE STAMMTISCH? Rodger: In times past, for 10 years or so we had group Christmas dinners, canoe trips, summer solstice picnics on Mount Tam and significant birthday parties. I met all of these people at Fred’s. Dieter: Years ago we sometimes went on camping trips together; now contact is mostly limited to the get-togethers in the morning. But we played together quite a bit. For me, most of the friendships developed at the stammtisch table. John: Not in my case. Ruth: I met everyone when Rodger and I got

together. We occasionally see each other outside of breakfast — we may have dinner together with another couple. I do email several of them as well, either to send an interesting forward or on some stammtisch business. In years past we used to go to Dieter’s house for a pumpkin-carving evening with dessert afterwards, and for many years we had a Christmas dinner together in a nice restaurant.

• DO YOU FEEL GUILTY IF YOU MISS A BREAKFAST? DO YOU FEEL LIKE YOU ARE MISSING ANYTHING? Dieter: Yes! Coming home to Fred’s from anywhere in the world feels right. Jeff: I don’t if I just miss a couple of days. Everyone sometimes has things to do. Rodger: Yes, the table is a continuous movie, quite current and topical, and something is always happening. Ruth: I know Rodger does. It’s a big part of his social scene. I don’t like to miss when someone comes back from a trip. Dieter especially has interesting stories to tell.

• WHAT ARE CONVERSATION TOPICS? Ruth: We tell stories from our past and bring up problems we have with our neighbors, dogs, government, etc. We ask things like “where can I get my brakes, toaster, shoes fixed?” Asking if you saw the game yesterday is common, but • HOW HAS IT CHANGED? sports aren’t big. There is a lot Dieter: Fred’s has pretty much of “how was your trip.” There stayed the same over the is never any swearing, offdecades. Owners changed, color jokes, complaints about personnel changed, but the aches and pains or grumbles essence of the place remained about our spouses. — a local hangout with a cozy Dieter: I grew up with a stamfeel and good food. The “we mtisch. When Mom said go share tables” motto brings get Dad I knew where to go. people together. Sausalito has The concept of gathering at changed as well. There are a public place is something I more young families with kids. was born with. You talk about Also, now there are more tourThis sign was crafted for Dieter Rapp by events, health concerns, perists and many more bicycles. Audi machinists in Germany. sonal experiences, local and Rodger: There was some international events — pretty change in atmosphere when much everything except politics if I can avoid it. Fred died, some change in decor when Steve took Jeff: The news, responsibilities, projects. over, as well as the menu. But most notably, the table Rodger: Travel, news about our jobs, law problems, is getting smaller (at one time we had a mailing list real estate, movies, art shows and museums, some of 45) and now there are fewer women at the table. construction stories and problems. We reminisce Ruth: When I joined the table there were other about the past, sailing and boats. Little is said women coming from time to time. Now I’m the lone about sports, aches and pains or politics. female unless Dieter’s wife comes.

they used to argue some about politics but they’ve learned that no one’s mind is ever changed. During the month since I first met the group, one member unexpectedly died at age 84. Dieter Rapp, the group’s unofficial leader, acknowledges that at their ages, this is an increasing possibility. Their friend’s immediate absence begged the question, ‘How is this stammtisch sustainable?’ There isn’t new, young blood coming into the group and everyone is over 65. Rodger, a longtime member who now travels f rom Berkeley three days a week to join the table, concurs that indeed, there is not much human inf lux. “If Dieter ever leaves, that would leave a big hole.” Ruth, his partner of 10

years, adds, “If Dieter goes, the group will fall apart.” Dieter, however, says he hopes it will never end. On any given day members of the group arrive and leave nearly as unnoticed as a server refilling waters. This particular day, by 7:15 a.m., Larry, the plastic surgeon, finished his breakfast, quickly got up and was through the back exit wearing his scrubs. Soon after, Jeff packed up, Dieter had to run and even John was paying his bill in preparation to leave. There were no real good-byes nor any “when will we see each other agains,” as normally happens when diners at a table go their own ways. These guys already know where and when. Tomorrow. At Fred’s. Somewhere, Fred is smiling. m M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 69

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PROMOTION

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that is extremely knowledgeable, highly-skilled and take great pride in their work and the service we provide.”

“We believe our strength is our people. With some of the finest employees in the industry, we have a powerful team

2100 Redwood Highway, Greenbrae, CA 415.924.3300 • bayareawindowfactory.com

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From the initial in-home consultation all the way through the installation process, Rachel and Jaclyn are committed to making each window replacement project a positive ex perience. A s mothers, communit y members, loca l business owners and woman in construction, this pair treats every client like a family friend and each home as if were their own.

7/11/16 11:40 AM

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Body Kinetics Health Clubs Michael Hoeber Jenkins, John and Joey Hoeber, Owners, Body Kinetics, LLC We grew up in a large family, working together in our pa rents’ g rocer y store, so operating a fa mily-ow ned neighborhood business has been natura l to us. Body Kinetics opened in 1990 with the purpose of transforming the health and well-being of our members. Our intention is to inspire and educate people to take on their own health for the rest of their lives.

wellness within a supportive community.

We believe in an integrated approach to your health and well-being. Not only are muscle strength, f lexibility and cardiovascular endurance emphasized in our approach, we also highlight the importance of nutrition, mindfulness a nd rest a nd recover y. We f ocus on these a spects of

We want to be your fitness partner for life!

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We provide many exercise options: personal training, small group training, Pilates, yoga, Zumba, group cycling and more! Please stop by our newest location in San Rafael at 1800 Second Street (the old Yardbirds). Mention you saw us in Marin Magazine and we will give you a complimentary 7-day pass to any of our 3 locations.

Mill Valley 415.380.8787 • San Rafael 415.457.2639 Novato 415.895.5965 • bodykinetics.com

7/11/16 11:40 AM

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Raising the Bar for Success in School and Life Dr. Peg Sandel, Head of School, Brandeis Marin I g r e w up i n M i s sion V iejo, C A , w it h p a r ent s w ho encouraged my questions – big questions about the world, about how to live a purposeful, meaningful life. I chose a career in education because of its impact. People tend to see Jewish day schools as parochial; I think it’s really the opposite. Brandeis Marin’s superior academics are steeped in universal values. We set a higher, more meaningful bar for success in school and in life. Our students develop a moral compass to light their way, no matter what their Jewish or non-Jewish background. Whether in science lab, writer’s workshop, robotics, visual/media arts, rock

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band, or on the fields of our beautiful campus – our kids are known and guided by exceptional faculty to become thinkers, questioners and collaborators. Brandeis Marin a lumni go on to be leaders and change-ma kers. They graduate with the vision, confidence and tools they need to fulfill their greatest potential as community members, global citizens and above all, as human beings. To me, it’s a gift to know I’m part of their story. 180 North San Pedro Road, San Rafael, CA 415.472.1833 • brandeismarin.org

7/11/16 11:40 AM

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High End Swim Spas, Hot Tubs and Fireplaces David Kasten, John Kasten Sr. and John Kasten Jr., Creative Energy Founded in 1976, Creative Energy has a long history in the Bay Area. We’re proud to say that, since the beginning, our core va lues have rema ined the sa me: of fer hig hquality products, maintain a knowledgeable and dedicated sta f f, prov ide excellent customer ser v ice and exceed expectations.

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Today, Creative Energ y of fers the best in rela xation, including hot tubs, fireplaces, Endless Pools and fire pits. We serve the entire Bay Area in our three showrooms, located in San Rafael, San Mateo and Pleasanton. 4100 Redwood Highway, #B, San Rafael, CA 415.472.7727 • creativeenergy.com

7/11/16 11:46 AM

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Sports Medicine in Marin David H. Goltz, MD, Head Team Physician, U.S. Freestyle Ski Team - Mt. Tam Orthopedics “I understand you. Your interests are your passions. You are the Dipsea runner looking for one more black shirt, the soccer player with dreams of college athletics, the national team skier with sights set on the 2018 Winter Games- you are my people! Like you, I am of these trails, these fields, this coast. You don’t just want to get better, you want to be better. Lets get there together!”

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Dr. Goltz is an orthopedic sports medicine specialist with a practice focus on injuries in athletes and children. His emphasis is on highly personalized care to athletes of all levels. 18 Bon Air Road, Larkspur, CA o: 415.927.5300; c: 415.328.7079 • mttamorthopedics.com

7/11/16 11:46 AM

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Marin 2016

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Marin’s Active Aging Movement Etta Allen, Board Vice President, Dennis Ryan, Board President, Joe O’Hehir, CEO, Whistlestop The Marin Senior Coordinating Council, better known as Whistlestop, has a 62-year history ensuring that every adult has the opportunity to age with grace, dignity and independence by pioneering the “Active Aging” Movement in Marin. Today, Marin seniors are facing similar challenges as the seniors of 60 years ago: hunger, isolation and access to transportation. Whistlestop provides solutions to these challenges with an integrated hub of county-wide, special needs mobility options, including volunteer drivers; nutrition programs like Meals on Wheels; problem-solving referrals and hundreds of daily active aging classes.

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Seniors in our community are not a special case. They are people who have invested in our neighborhoods, our retail centers and our schools by living, working and raising their families here. Now it’s our responsibility to honor and respect those who have been part of the fabric of Marin for decades by both paying them back and paying it forward for others who will need these services someday, maybe even you. Please get involved by visiting whistlestop.org to see how you can support Whistlestop. 930 Tamalpais Avenue, San Rafael, CA 415.456.9062 • whistlestop.org

7/11/16 11:46 AM

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Energy Medicine Tiffany Hunter, PhD, Clinic Director, Co-Founder; Chyna Honey, Jim Honey, Co-Founders (not pictured) Hea ling for People is a n energ y medicine clinic that helps reduce or eliminate symptoms of pain and disease, including those caused by pa st ex per iences. Energ y medicine is a newly recognized branch of healthcare that helps people recover from migraines, depression, pain, stress, sleeplessness, menopause, anxiety and similar. It also supports people looking to make changes in their lives from addiction, abuse or stagnation.

to discover you’ve been trying to use a hammer for a job that requires a screwdriver, but the first step is recognizing that and finding the right tool for the job,” says Dr. Hunter, Cl i n ic Di rec tor a nd C o -f ou nder. “ No one shou ld be resigned to a life of pain or unfulfilled potential because they feel they’ve failed or don’t know where to go. Energy medicine offers solutions that are simple, straightforward and usually produce relief in three sessions.”

Energy medicine is often found to be the missing piece to their healthcare puzzle that people seek. “It’s frustrating

7 Mount Lassen Drive, Suite B257, San Rafael, CA 415.380.8600 • healingforpeople.com

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7/11/16 11:46 AM

PROMOTION

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HomeStreet Bank Serena Greening (front), Martin Iglesias, Angela Hoover, George Rosenfield, Allison Ward Home St reet Ba n k i s a lead i ng home lender w it h outstanding expertise. We have been making great things happen for our customers for more than 90 years. Whether you’re buying your first home, moving up or refinancing, we have a program for you. Our local decision-making and underwriting help streamline the process. Applying is easy, and many loans are pre-approved at the time of application, subject to f inal underwriting approval. So take a deep breath — we’ll be right beside you every step of the way. Founded in 1921, HomeStreet Bank offers mortgage loans products for residential, construction and commercial real estate financing. HomeStreet Bank offers a broad range of

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purchase and refinance loan options as well as specialized portfolio lending. W hether you are looking to buy a home, build a home, or refinance and existing residence, HomeStreet Bank as the perfect loan option to f it your needs. Let one of experienced and knowledgeable loan officer’s work with you to create the financing structure that helps you make homeownership a reality not a dream. 1111A Street, San Rafael, CA 415.489.7703 • homestreet.com

7/11/16 11:46 AM

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Excellence in Aesthetic Surgery Robert Aycock, MD, FACS, Board Certified Plastic Surgeon S i n c e 1 9 8 8 , D r. R o b e r t Ay c o c k a n d h i s s t a f f h a v e devoted themselves to helping patients look and feel their best through aesthetic plastic surgery. Dr. Aycock understands that each patient is an individual and treats each with empathy and patience while taking the time to understand specific needs and concerns. Dr. Aycock specializes in breast enhancement; body contouring; facial surgery; mommy makeovers; and with a MedSpa and Laser Center that offers a variety of skin rejuvenation procedures including injectable f illers, medical grade peels, laser treatments, CoolsculptingÂŽ and NeoGraf t Hair Restoration.

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Dr. Aycock and his staff are dedicated to enhancing each patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance with the finest result. Call or visit Dr. Aycock today. 575 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, Suite 2, Greenbrae, CA 415.925.1700 1855 San Miguel Drive, Suite 4, Walnut Creek, CA 925.937.8377 1700 California Street, Suite 280, San Francisco, CA 415.689.6908 aycockmd.com

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Classical Ballet Training and Performance A glimpse of Marin Ballet’s annual Nutcracker Classical ballet training comes in many shapes, sizes and ages here at Marin Ballet. From portraying characters in Marin County’s treasured production of Nutcracker, starting at age 8, to performing Balanchine excerpts as an advanced student, Marin Ballet has been home to students of the art form for over 50 years. The Marin Ballet family is one of legacy, tradition and mentorship. Our dancers enjoy training in a facility where 4-year olds taking a Creative Movement class can peek in the studio of teenage dancers training en pointe and, in

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turn, all are inspired...and touched...by the excitement over another’s very first pair of pointe shoes. We are proud of our commitment to promoting the art of dance through the daily work of training to performance. For a dancer, the thrill of sharing one’s passion for dance with an audience is an unforgettable experience. It is a gift to be shared...we invite you to come see us dance. We love being a part of the cultural community here in Marin County! 100 Elm Street, San Rafael, CA 415.453.6705 • marinballet.org

7/11/16 11:47 AM

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Curated Collections and Cool Finds Heidi Blair and Patricia Rudd, partners Office Hours Office Hours in downtown Mill Valley offers a fresh twist on retail. Partners Heidi Blair and Patricia Rudd, teamed up to create a unique concept that combines the best of old and new. This one of a kind boutique offers a stand out collection of vintage office furnishings for that workspace “wow factor”. But the cool vibe doesn’t stop with a shiny aluminum WWII field desk. This veritable museum also carries tech and trendy items, fine leather and paper goods, office essentials like quality pens and pencils, as well a great selection of gifts for men and the hip readers, “eyebobs”.

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Open only since November, the team has already acquired a second location in San Rafael and will be expanding their collection beyond the office. The new loft space will offer a photo shoot venue, house their collection of rental furniture and bygone era props, as well as hosting pop-up artist and artisan shows, a design talk series and monthly designer gatherings focused on sharing gifts and talents with others who simply love good design. 18 East Blithedale Avenue, Suite 12, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.6800 • office-hours.com

7/11/16 11:47 AM

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Cutting Edge Skin Techniques Tracy Evans MD, MPH, Board Certified Dermatologist I am a Board Certif ied Dermatologist and Fellowship Tra ined Mohs Su rgeon specia li zing in cut ting edge techniques a nd persona lized treatments that create he a lt hy, r ad i a nt sk i n . I h ave ex t en sive t r a i n i ng i n rejuvenation techniques w ith lasers a nd injectables that make a dramatic difference improving the signs of aging. I have focused on the perfection of the minimally invasive “Liquid Lift” for face and neck rejuvenation. I take a holistic approach to patient care to restore my patient ’s natura l looks a nd boost their conf idence. I believe that people should always look healthy and rested and the health of a patient ’s skin is a ref lection of the

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health of their body. I recommend regular skin checks to monitor for signs of skin cancer. My Mohs Fellowship concentrated on the surgical removal of skin cancer and reconstruction techniques. After two years of research for the National Institute of Health, I am an expert at detecting, treating and managing skin cancer. I founded my private dermatology practice in San Francisco in 2008 and in 2016 opened a new office here in Marin County. 770 Tamalpais Drive, Suite 403, Corte Madera, CA 415.924.2055 • tracyevansmd.com

7/11/16 2:58 PM

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Plastic Surgery / Med Spa Yngvar Hvistendahl, MD, Stanley G. Poulos, MD, Aric Aghayan, MD, Plastic Surgery Specialists Pla stic Su rger y Specia lists Drs. St a n ley Pou los a nd Yngvar Hvistendahl Marin County plastic surgeons with over 40 years combined surgical experience, share the technical expertise and artistic vision necessary to achieve exceptional results. To better serve our busy practice, we are excited to introduce Dr. Aric Aghayan. We want you thrilled with your results. W hether it â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a smidge of Botox and filler to combat wrinkles or volume loss, or a full Mommy Makeover, we have an experienced team and in-house surger y center to ma ke it happen.

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Newest nonsurgical offerings include CoolSculpting, the Halo laser and Venus. PSS now of fers Vaser HiDef Liposculpture; we are one of the few practices in the Bay area to offer this exciting new procedure that sculpts you body to remove unwanted fat and create curves where you want them. Our highly trained team provides one-of-akind patient experience. Please visit us to learn more. 350 Bon Air Road, Suite 300, Greenbrae, CA 415.925.2880 â&#x20AC;˘ psspecialists.com

7/11/16 11:47 AM

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Meet Art with Seek Fine Art App Karolis Karalevicius, Emma Peter, Agne Christensen, CEO with daughters Bea and Aya, Molly Moses, Kaylyn Balmoria and Bill the dog “Art is for everyone!” Christensen says. She runs a gallery in Mill Valley and launched a digital art gallery guide last year, called Seek Fine Art. “Seek Fine Art is my way to bring the joy of discovering art to the masses and to turn art lovers into collectors. I’m thrilled to continue growing our platform which already includes 38 countries and over 11,000 gallery and museum listings. Being a gallery guide is just a start. We want to educate and soften the perception people have about art galleries,” Christensen says.

company founder. Yet she’s determined to make Seek Fine Art travelers’ best friend when exploring the world of art around them. The app has already changed her own experience of enjoying art, hopefully it changes yours too.

A mom of two, Christensen says it was not easy to juggle the roles of mother, artist, gallery owner and now tech

86 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 415.483.0223 • seekfineart.com

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Seek Fine Art can be found in the iTunes store for your next visit to San Francisco, New York, Seoul and dozens of other cities.

7/13/16 10:49 AM

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Marin

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Creating Exceptionally Beautiful Livable Spaces Ruth Livingston, Ruth Livingston Studio Ruth Livingston, an award-winning designer, has been creating unique eclectic interiors since 1980. Her work combines simplicity of form, references to nature and a passion for handcrafted furniture. Trade showrooms n at ionw ide r epr e s ent t he Rut h L i v i n g s t on St ud io Collection, recipient of eight Design Excellence Awards. The collection is known for Ruth’s collaborative work with Bay Area artists in wood, steel, hand-woven rugs and accessories.

On display are items from the Ruth Livingston Studio Collection, gifts and accessories for the home in glass, ceramics and wood, as well as unique objects handpicked on travels to Asia and Europe. An array of unique jewelry handcrafted by local artists is also featured.

Ruth Livingston’s storefront studio occupies an elegant gallery space on Ark Row in downtown Tiburon, California.

74 Main Street, Belvedere Tiburon, CA 415.435.5264 • ruthlivingston.com

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“I’d love to discuss your next project, so we can realize your vision for your home and lifestyle”, Ruth Livingston

7/11/16 11:48 AM

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Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery David A. Laub, MD Laub Dermatology & Aesthetics located in Mill Valley, has been ser ving the North Bay for many years. David A . Laub, MD, is a Ha r va rd tra i ned, Boa rd Cer ti f ied Dermatolog ist specia lizing in medica l, surg ica l a nd aesthetic dermatology. Dr. Laub’s ex per tise is ba sed on ex tensive tra ining , experience, artistry and attention to detail. Asked why he became a dermatologist, his response was simple. “Having skin issues personally, I can understand and relate to my patients.” His compassion is what drives his practice today: “We want everyone who comes to our office to feel comfortable and cared for. I feel fortunate to be a

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dermatologist and love what I do”. A recognized leader in his field, he is an expert in pigmentation, rosacea, psoriasis and skin cancer. He utilizes his artistic eye to treat signs of aging and sun damage with aesthetic treatments. Their office provides excellence in dermatological care for all ages. The professional staf f of David Laub, MD, Kate Ratto, NP and Christina Chan, RN look forward to assisting you with all of your skin care needs. 591 Redwood Highway, Suite 2210, Mill Valley, CA 415.381.6661 • laubdermatology.com

7/11/16 11:48 AM

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Sutter Novato Community Hospital Dan Solomon, MD, Director of Surgical Services, Peter Callander, MD, Director of Joint Replacements Bone & Joint Program At Novato Community Hospital’s Bone & Joint Program, we get you back to the active life you love. Dr s. Peter Ca l la nder a nd Da n S olomon lead a tea m of prominent or thopedic surgeons, spor ts medicine physicians and physical therapists, who specialize in treating the knee, hip, back, spine, shoulder, hand, arm wrist, foot and ankle—all right here in Marin County. We believe in patient-centered care. Our top-rated team offers more than just a hospital stay. We partner with you through your entire healing process, from start to finish.

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W hether it ’s physica l therapy, a minor procedure or surgery, we help you determine the best treatment. We then use our expertise, the latest technology and minimally invasive techniques to give you qua lit y care. A nd we monitor your progress through your entire recovery. Attend a free physician-led seminar to understand what’s causing your pain, treatment options and what to expect from joint replacement surgery. Visit us to learn more. 180 Rowland Way, Novato, CA 415.209.1460 • novatocommunity.org

7/11/16 11:52 AM

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Changing Young Lives for More Than a Century Joy Phoenix, Blye Faust, Jacqueline Spielberg, Jay Cahan, Lydia Cameron, Bill Caroli, Mary Denton (stairs); Dave Egan, Suzie Pollak, Elizabeth Kulavic; (not pictured) Peter Breen, Mendy Calegari, Jennifer Gotti, Natalie Tovani-Walchuk Sunny Hills Services has dedicated itself to improving the lives of the most vulnerable children and youth in our community since 1895. Given our long history in Marin, many residents have fond memories of family members who volunteered for a Guild or raising funds and awareness for the agency. Broad communit y suppor t for the past 121 yea rs has ensured that Sunny Hills remains a beacon of help and hope for thousands of troubled children and youth.

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Early intervention and an array of programs and services help these young people learn self-confidence, resilience and other skills to meet lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s challenges. We are grateful to our Board of Directors, pictured here and to the generations of community members who have walked beside us to help change young lives. 300 Sunny Hills Drive, San Anselmo, CA 415.457.3200 â&#x20AC;˘ sunnyhillsservices.org

7/11/16 11:52 AM

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Agents of Change Matt Hughes, Assistant Manager and Cyd Gardner, Managing Broker At Paragon Real Estate Group, we have a simple philosophy – do what ’s best for our client. A rmed w ith extensive experience, our agents help guide you through your real estate process by providing the best market research, marketing and transaction resources available. With any real estate decision, knowledge is power. Paragon has become the premier source of market analytics for the Bay Area real estate market. Our reports are regularly quoted in media including The Wa ll Street Jour na l, San Francisco Business Times, San Francisco Chronicle and KQED.

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Founded in 2004, we focus on what we know best: San Francisco, Marin and the Bay A rea. Like you, we are part of our community. Ranked top 5 in the U.S. for the highest average sales price, we’ve shared our success with donations totaling more than $600,000 from the Paragon Community Fund. Recently, we’ve contributed to the Marin Realtors for the Redwoods, Center for Domestic Peace, Brandeis Hillel Day School, and most recently, the Italian Street Painting of Marin benefitting EveryLife Foundation for Rare Diseases. 300 Drakes Landing Road, Suite 120, Greenbrae, CA 415.805.2900 • paragon-re.com

7/11/16 11:52 AM

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Neurosurgery in Marin Rishi Wadhwa, MD, Tarun Arora, MD, MSPT, Jeremy Graham, NP and Keith Quattrocchi, MD, PhD UCSF’s Depa r tment of Neurologica l Surger y, pa r t of UCSF Weill Institute for Neurosciences, is home to some of the country ’s leading physicians. With three UCSF neurosurgeons practicing at Marin General Hospital, Marin residents have direct access to nationally recognized neurosurgical care. In fact, US News & World Report ranked UCSF one of the top four neurosurgery programs in the country—and the best program on the West Coast. Neurosurgeons Tarun Arora, MD, MSPT, Rishi Wadhwa, MD and Keith Quattrocchi, MD, PhD provide cutting-edge care at both Marin General Hospital and UCSF Medical Center. This unique arrangement allows for outstanding

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treatment in collaboration with Marin’s premier medical community, as well as seamless care for patients who may need specialized resources available only at UCSF. A fully staffed neurosurgery clinic in Marin allows patients to be seen quickly and easily while staying close to home. Specialized treatment is of fered for all ty pes of adult neurosurgical disorders, including brain tumors, spinal d isorder s, br a i n a nd spi na l t r au m a , neu rova sc u la r disorders and more. Greenbrae, CA • Ph 415.514.6868, Fx 415.502.5550 ucsfhealth.org/clinics/specialty_care

7/11/16 11:52 AM

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Orthopaedic Surgery and Sports Medicine Mohammad Diab, MD, Shane Burch, MD, Carlin Senter, MD, Daniel Thuillier, MD (front) We are the department of ORTHOPAEDIC SURGERY AT UCSF: a team of orthopedic surgeons, sports medicine physicians and cer tif ied athletic trainers, who bring patient-centered orthopaedic care to the North Bay. At the UCSF MARIN CLINIC in Greenbrae, we provide ex per t treatment f or a ll a spects of muscu loskelet a l injuries and rehabilitation. Specialties include pediatric orthopaedics, primary care sports medicine, spine and foot/ankle. Within the community, our team of UCSF physicians and certified athletic trainers is dedicated to providing

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sports medicine care and health education to athletes at Tamalpais High School, Redwood High School and Sir Francis Drake High School. By educating students, coaches and parents with up-to-date medical knowledge, we aim to keep youth performing both on and off the field. We are continuing UCSF’s pioneering multidisciplinary approach to clinical care, education and outreach. We strive to work with our patients to improve function and quality of life by tailoring plans to individuals’ goals. 1300 South Eliseo Drive, Suite 204, Greenbrae, CA 415.353.2299 • orthosurg.ucsf.edu

7/11/16 11:52 AM

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Marin 2016

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Custom Jewelry Design Sophie Priolo and Lucas Priolo, Sofia Jewelry The new face of SOFIA JEWELRY... after 22 years Mom and Dad are stepping back and brother and sister, Lucas and Sophie Priolo, are carrying on the family tradition w ith the same qua lit y, st yle and professiona lism the community has come to expect from Sofia Jewelry. They are an experienced and talented team with a lifetime of exposure to the jewelry world. Mom and Dad are not letting go of the reins completely. Susan continues her executive oversight and Carl continues to provide exceptional custom design with Lucas by his side. Carl’s creative eye and extensive ties to the Bay Area

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jewelry world guarantee you a custom piece of jewelry that won’t disappoint. Lucas and Sophie bring a youthful look to Sofia Jewelry. T hey a re t u ned i nto t he loc a l com mu n it y a nd t hei r enthusiasm and dedication to customer service and high standards provide a sure generational transition for the family business into the next era. Stop by and visit! 80 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.8776 • sofiajewelry.com

7/11/16 11:53 AM

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7/7/16 12:08 PM 7/7/16 3:34 PM

Destinations

T H E L AT E ST LO C A L T R AV E L D E A L S A N D G E TAWAYS PLU S J O U R N E YS A RO U N D T H E G LO B E

TASTY TRENDS ON OAHU The next generation of chefs perpetuate Honoluluâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary stardom.

CRAIG FUJII

BY SHERRIE STRAUSFOGEL

Farmers Pho at the Pig and the Lady.

M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 95

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Destinations / GO

A HU’S NEXT WAVE of maverick

fare that’s more accessible in presentation and price and giving food lovers yet another reason to visit Honolulu.

• Breakfast

Koko Head Cafe, a brunch-all-day eatery, is tucked away in the eclectic Waikiki-adjacent neighborhood of Kaimuki. WHY POPULAR Hipsters love chef Lee Anne Wong’s take on Hawaiian home cooking. A New Yorker, she trained at the French Culinary Institute; worked in kitchens all over the world; garnered TV cred on the Food Network, the Cooking Channel, Bravo’s Top Chef and its spin-off Top Chef Masters; and wrote a cookbook, Dumplings All Day Wong. WHAT TO ORDER Kimchi bacon cheddar scones; $5. Dumplings All Day Wong

(dumplings of the day); price varies. Breakfast Bibimbap with bacon, Portuguese sausage, heritage ham, kimchi, soy-mirin shiitake mushrooms, ong choy, sesame carrots, bean sprouts and sunny-side-up egg, served over crispy garlic rice in a hot skillet; $15. INSIDER TIPS Walk-ins only, worth the wait. ✱ 1145c 12th Avenue, 808.732.8920, kokoheadcafe.com

• Lunch

The Pig & The Lady is chef Andrew Le’s talkof-the-town Chinatown restaurant. WHY POPULAR Born in Honolulu to Vietnamese parents, Le serves updates of his mother’s Vietnamese street food recipes. He attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York, was 2014 James Beard Foundation

MAKAHA STUDIOS

chefs, finding inspiration in a rich culinary heritage and an abundance of surf-to-table seafood and just-picked produce, are turning Honolulu into the next foodie frontier. The pig, poi and pineapple luau long synonymous with the Hawaiian Islands is certainly fun, but did leave some room for innovation. And 25 years ago that’s just what happened when a band of 12 chefs created Hawaii Regional Cuisine — the beginning of one of the most exciting culinary scenes in the country. These stellar chefs freely mixed local ingredients with cooking styles from all the immigrant cultures. It was as if they took the flavors and cooking traditions from the Japanese, Chinese, Filipinos, Thai, Vietnamese, Koreans, Portuguese, Polynesians, French and Italians and threw them into a giant pot. These culinary champions, among them Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi and George Mavrothalassitis, began building relationships with local farmers, fishermen and aquaculturists, promising they would buy Hawaiian if the farmers produced more variety and promised top quality. The cooks have since gone on to enormously successful careers — books, TV shows and critical acclaim, including prestigious James Beard Foundation awards — and their Oahu restaurants continue to get rave reviews, also providing the training ground for the next generation of chefs. Yamaguchi and Wong chair the annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where local and international celebrity chefs celebrate the islands’ bounty with signature dishes containing grown-in-Hawaii ingredients. In its sixth year, the festival takes place over three weekends in October on multiple islands and features more than 100 chefs, vintners and distillers from around the world. Today, new farm-to-fork pioneers are adding twists to an ever-evolving cuisine with more local flavors and more traditional Hawaiian foods than ever before. They’ve amped up their commitment to sustainability, to local farmers, fishers and ranchers and almost-forgotten ingredients. They’re cooking 96 A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 M A R I N

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CHRISSY LAMBER (ALFESCO); OLIVIER KONING (KENNEY)

Opposite: Presenting dishes at the HFWF. This page, clockwise from top: Alfesco dining at Mud Hen Water; MHW chef Ed Kenney; chef Andrew Le and his mom (the eponymous pig and the lady); the Pig and the Lady's pho French dip banh mi.

with barbecue sauce, Thai basil chimichurri, charred bean sprouts, onion and cilantro, meant to be dunked into pho broth; $15. INSIDER TIP Reservations are a must; go after visiting Pearl Harbor or if you get off our flight hungry. ✱ 83 N. King Street, 808.585.8255, thepigandthelady.com

Rising Chef of the Year semifinalist, and earned his toque as sous chef to chef George Mavrothalassitis of Chef Mavro. WHAT TO ORDER P&L Pho is brisket roasted for 12 hours, rare beef, smoked bacon, fresh ginger, Tokyo negi, sawtooth herb, pickled chili and black pepper; $14. Pho French Dip is a 12-hour-roasted brisket sandwich, glazed

• Dinner

Mud Hen Water in Kaimuki (the name is the Hawaiian translation of “Ka imu ki,” or the “ti root oven”) is run by native son chef Ed Kenney, whose mantra is “local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha always.” WHY POPULAR This casual restaurant and Kenney’s others — Town, Kaimuki Superette, and the newly opened Mahina & Sun’s — are

all lively gathering places. Tune in to his latest venture, Family Ingredients, a new PBS-TV series he hosts that traces the origins of Hawaiian dishes to their roots around the world. Not quite a documentary or a cooking show, it features Hawaii’s communities, diverse cultures and culinary adventures. WHAT TO ORDER Beet salad with beets, avocado, gorilla ogo and smoked macadamia nuts; $8. I’a Lawalu is a’uku (swordfish) buried in coals, served with steamed green banana and seasonal veggies covered in coconut cream; $26. INSIDER TIP Millennials love the bar scene; the bartenders muddle fresh turmeric, arugula and sage into cocktails. ✱ 3452 Waialae Avenue, 808.737.6000, mudhenwater.com M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 97

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Destinations / GO

From SFO to HNL Immerse yourself in Hawaii’s beach culture.

The Hawaii Food and Wine Festival features notable Bay Area culinary talents. H AVING A H A RD TIME getting into Liholiho Yacht Club, State Bird Provisions or Commonwealth in San Francisco? Consider an October trip to Oahu for the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival, where chefs from those hot spots will be serving up handheld snacks for all to enjoy. Ravi Kapur of Liholiho Yacht Club offers a locally inspired dish at the Urban Luau on October 26. You’ll sample bites from Jason Fox of Commonwealth and Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski of State Bird Provisions at the Hawaiian Convention Center on October 28. The three-weekend festival also features returning Bay Area chefs Nancy Oakes (Boulevard, S.F.), Charles Phan (Slanted Door, S.F.) and Martin Yan (Yan Can Cook, San Mateo) along with event hosts Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong and more than 100 other internationally renowned culinary personalities. Here we speak with three participating chefs. MIMI TOWLE

Jason Fox

Ravi Kapur

How often have you been to

Nicole Krasinski and Stuart Brioza

Hawaii? This will be my fourth

Hawaii? I grew up on Oahu,

How often have you been to

time going out there.

and much of my family now

Hawaii? Stuart went to Hawaii

lives on Maui. I don’t get back

every summer as a kid and we

to Oahu as often as I would like.

have been many times together.

I have really enjoyed the north

Learn to surf by world champions.

shore of Kauai and on Oahu,

Where do you like to stay? We

I like Ko Olina.

always stay with aunties and

surf to shore. There are many Waikīkī

Favorite Hawaiian ingredi-

uncles depending on which

hotels, but none that captures

ents? The abalone from the Big

the heart of the ocean quite like

Island is amazing, as well as

Jump into an outrigger canoe and

Outrigger Hotels and Resorts.

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the first time being there for the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival. Where do you like to stay? With

hearts of palm, and the large

ing story.

our friends at Wailea Agricultural

array of local seaweeds.

Favorite Hawaiian ingredi-

excited to go back to Ethel’s,

16-0627_GM - Marin Ad_1over3.indd 1

married on the Big Island. This is

on the lanai, eating and talk-

Restaurants to try? I am

Find out at Outrigger.com

island. It’s all about hanging

We love it so much we were

ents? Kukui nut, apple bananas and taro.

Group, on their beautiful heartsof-palm farm on the Big Island. Favorite Hawaiian ingredients? We like hearts of palm and mac-

a hole-in-the-wall restaurant

Restaurants to get back to?

by the Honolulu airport serv-

Ono’s and Helena’s on Oahu.

ing great Hawaiian food, and

Pipikaula, luau stew and lau lau

Restaurants to try? Ma‘Ona

Town, Pig and the Lady, and

at Helena’s and kalua pig and

Musubi, for the Japanese-style

Mud Hen Water restaurant.

everything at Ono’s.

musubi, in downtown Honolulu.

adamia nuts.

ORLANDO BENEDICTO (TOP)

Where do you like to stay?

6/29/16 10:44 AM

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CATCH A WAVE

with surf legends and the beach boys of Waikīkī.

Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort

Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort

Where can you be welcomed like family in a paradise far from home?

Find out at Outrigger.com O ‘A H U

M AU I

K AUA‘ I

H AWA I ‘ I I S L A N D

FIJI

THAILAND

G UA M

M AU R I T I U S

MALDIVES

See your travel agent or call 800.688.7444

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6/29/16 10:37 AM 7/6/16 10:57 AM

Destinations / JOURNEY

They come in many forms and exist all over the planet; here we bring you three of the best island escapes. Journey to the home of a former Hollywood legend, to a surfersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; paradise and to an expansive estate on a once-private island now open to all (who can afford it).

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Destinations / JOURNEY

Marlon Brando originally intended Tetiaroa to be his back-to-nature retreat

THE BRANDO ● TAHITI

“P

RIVACY IS NOT something that I’m merely entitled to,” said Marlon Brando; “it’s an absolute prerequisite.” To that end, he bought Tetiaora in 1967 after visiting while filming Mutiny on the Bounty in French Polynesia. It was a private island hideaway, far, far from Hollywood. Today The Brando, which opened in July 2014, continues his vision of privacy in the lushness of an island paradise — away from the public’s prying eyes. It’s a super-luxury resort and the ultimate secluded escape. (Other movie stars have already discovered the island paradise, but no one is saying who.) The price tag for a stay in Tetiaroa, an atoll of 13 little islets or “motus” 50 miles north of Tahiti, is high. But the rewards are beyond measure — bone-white sandy beaches fringed by coconut palms, a lagoon of crystal-clear water ringed by unspoiled coral. It’s a castaway’s dream, and a lovely one at that. Part of The Brando’s attraction is its remoteness — it’s not easy getting there, and you can only arrive by helicopter or the twicedaily 20-minute flight on an eight-seater from Tahiti. So hidden are the 35 villas that you can only see their thatched roofs when you come in low for a landing.

HISTORY Marlon Brando originally intended Tetiaroa to be

his back-to-nature retreat, and it remained that way for most of the 30 years he went there. The accommodations at first were rudimentary — 12 wooden bungalows, a kitchen, dining hall, bar and sinks made from seashells. Friends and family who didn’t mind the Robinson Crusoe ambience were happy to visit him, but it was never intended to attract a crowd. Enter Richard Bailey, a well-respected Tahitian developer with a sensitivity to the environment. The two developed a plan to turn Tetiaroa into a high-end luxury eco-resort. Unfortunately, Brando, who died in 2004, never lived to see its completion: it opened July 1, 2014, the 10th anniversary of the actor’s death.

TIM MCKENNA (OPENER)

ACTIVITIES There’s a fitness center, tennis and water sports,

but for many the high point of The Brando experience is the spa, set among coconut palms at the center of a spiderweb of raised walkways. Couples can reserve a three-hour treatment in a wood-latticed cocoon high in the trees. Chef Guy Martin, owner of two-Michelin-star Le Grand Véfour in Paris, provides the exquisite cuisine, with specialties like salt-encrusted scallops and mahi-mahi in ginger. The Beachcomber, the more informal

of the two restaurants, is a great place for breakfast or lunch. Les Mutines (“mutineers,” as in the Bounty crew) is more formal and romantic, especially when candlelight flickers in the cool ocean breeze. At sunset, guests tend to gather at Bob’s Bar for the famous “Dirty Old Bob,” a bourbon-based concoction with just a touch of Tetiaroa honey from hives right there on the island. Most of the resort’s produce is also homegrown.

ROOMS A one-bedroom villa, hidden from its neighbor thanks to the careful planning of architect Pierre-Jean Picart, is “open plan,” with a main living room flanked on one side by a raised bedroom and bathroom plus outdoor bathtub; on the other side, a media room has Wi-Fi and and a foldout bed. The two- and threebedroom villas offer separate bedroom wings and are popular with families, although there are no formal children’s activities at the resort. There is 24/7 room service, and the minibars are stocked with drinks including champagne. Honey macaroon cookies await guests on arrival, with bicycles provided to pedal around the paved paths or to and from the main lodge. Brando conceived of using coconut oil as a source of biofuel, which now supplements power from 2,800 solar panels alongside the airstrip. The actor, often ahead of the technology curve, also thought of using deep-sea water for air-conditioning before that method existed; today a $6 million plant built on the island does just that. RATES Prices vary by season, from 2,400 euros (approximately

$2,700 per night) for a one-bedroom villa during the low season (April–June) and up to 9,000 euros ($10,000 per night) for a three-bedroom during the Christmas holidays. The rates are all-inclusive. BY JIM CALIO M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 101

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had the main ingredient, an island paradise surrounded by some of the best ocean conditions on the planet, but were missing one thing: drinkable water. To get water, they built tanks under every bure and structure on the island to collect rain runoff. Twenty years later, the loamy sand now supports a thriving tropical forest with coconut palms and native Fiji flora.

ACTIVITIES Surfers from all over the globe

NAMOTU ● FIJI

four-acre island surrounded by a national marine reserve, perched on the edge of a barrier reef, six miles off the coast of Fiji. While one can literally walk around this pebble of paradise in seven minutes, don’t be fooled; there’s plenty to do. Most guests will either be out in the water enjoying one of the many aquatic activities, including five world-class surfing wave breaks or the equally impressive diving and fishing. Lounging is big here too, under an umbrella either by the pool, out on the beach or on a balcony of one of the private bures (villas). The island holds 24 vacationers at a time, and usually the entire resort is booked by a group. Many of the clients are returnees converging for an annual tropical surf, sail, kiteboa rd or f ishing adventure. W hy? The g in-clea r water? Aforementioned world-class water sports? Probably, but according to TripAdvisor it’s the people. “The service for such a small place is excellent. Great, very friendly people. It’s like staying at your close friend’s place, only much better equipped and wellstaffed,” one commenter wrote. It’s a relatively simple trip: 11-hour flight from SFO to Nadi (pronounced Nandi) on Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu; quickish shuttle in a private van to get breakfast at the Sofitel; then a 25-minute boat ride to the resort. Oh, and once you step off the boat and into the sand, shoes are optional the rest of the week. ICTUR E A TIN Y

HISTORY In 1994, Namotu Island was nothing more than a sandbar with one coconut tree. Enter three visionary watermen with a goal to create the ultimate water sports retreat. They

consider the famous waves of Namotu and its neighboring island Tavarua a mecca. The five breaks (Cloudbreak, Restaurants, Swimming Pools, Namotu Lefts and Wilks) are so admired they are part of the world surfing tour every year. The area is likewise great for windsurfing and kiteboarding and features some of the best conditions for both. The South Pacific is also a legendary fishing and diving attraction for guests at the big resorts on the mainland. Namotu guests are welcome to jump on the island’s fishing boat at sunrise or sunset to help catch the next meal.

EATS Every four to six weeks, a different private chef from somewhere on the planet, usually Australia or the U.S., comes to Namotu to prepare the meals, which include steak, fresh-caught fish, chicken, tacos, pizza and fresh sushi and sashimi. There is always a vegetarian option and each meal of the day is accompanied by a healthy salad of Fijian-grown produce. NOT TO MISS After a day of surfing, windsurfing, snorkel-

ing or just skull draggin’ (getting slowly towed behind a boat for a motor-assisted snorkeling tour of the reef), nothing compares to sunset at the Waqa Bar. As the sign says, “Happy Hour 4–7 p.m., Same Price — Extra Happy!”

RATES The island’s infrastructure was built in 1995 but a twoyear renovation has just been completed of half the bures. Eight individual private bures are now available, as well as a threebedroom house with two bathrooms and a family-style dorm bure that sleeps up to six. Rate packages include three meals a day, all water activities including boat rides to the surf breaks and trips on and off the island. Prices start at $2,400 per person for a week’s stay. namotuislandfiji.com BY MIKE WALTZE

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PHOTO CREDIT

After a day of surfing, nothing compares to sunset at the Waqa Bar.

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Destinations / JOURNEY

VALLEY TRUNK ● BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

U R E , YOU COU LD go to the British Virgin Islands and stay at a high-end resort, but wouldn’t you rather rent a secluded, lush estate with its own 68-foot yacht? Recently opened to the public, Valley Trunk is the very private getaway of a wealthy French art-dealing and horse-breeding family on the island of Virgin Gorda — a slice of paradise in an archipelago where the water is so blue it feels insulting to call it aquamarine and the residents are so wealthy it’s been dubbed “Billionaire’s Playground” (Sir Richard Branson and Google’s Larry Page own islands nearby). The 19-acre estate — which can be rented out whole and sleeps 16 — includes its own white-sand boulder-strewn beach, tennis court, and discreet and attentive staff, with a French Michelinstarred chef. Offering lunch at the estate’s beachfront Bali House and sunset cocktails by the pool, overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel, it’s decidedly laid-back and unpretentious in that one-percenter kind of way. Virgin Gorda itself is also laid-back, far from the hustle of Caribbean tourist centers or cruise line stops, with only one

major luxury resort (Little Dix Bay, currently under renovation) and not a single building taller than a palm tree, as per the official building code. One of the BVIs’ more than 60 islands, Virgin Gorda is accessible only by boat or small airplanes, which take off from nearby St. Thomas or Tortola and land on the island’s hillside dirt runway.

HISTORY Reportedly named by Christopher Columbus for resembling a fat woman lying on her side, Virgin Gorda was originally settled in the 17th century by the Dutch and Quakers, who imported slaves for agriculture before realizing the island has very little freshwater. It does, however, have loads of gorgeous beachfront, which caught the eye of Daniel Wildenstein, the now-deceased patriarch of the (sometimes colorful) Wildenstein family, who own Valley Trunk. Wildenstein purchased the property, located in the secluded Valley Trunk Bay, in 1981 and spent the next four years constructing the estate, including importing the Bali House — a teak structure that stands less than 100 feet from the water and doubles as both cabana and open-air dining

PHOTO CREDIT

This page from top: The Kinkaku-ji temple; the walk to the Kiyomizudera temple. Opposite page: Celebrating cherry blossoms at Maruyama Park.

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Virgin Gorda itself is also laid-back, far from the hustle of Caribbean tourist centers or cruise line stops. One word of warning: the family decided to preserve parts of the original 1980s decor, so it’s a little like visiting the estate of your very rich Lily Pulitzer– wearing grandmother (especially the bathrooms). But its charms grow on you over time.

room — from Bali, as well as the laborers to build it. Daniel’s grandchildren, Diane and Alec Wildenstein Jr., who rent Valley Trunk out to the public 20–25 weeks a year, now own the estate.

ACTIVITIES Throughout the entire BVIs, it’s all about the

water. Guests can take out the yacht Xanadu for a day of snorkeling, kayaking and paddleboarding (all equipment provided) or sign up for private tennis, scuba or poolside yoga lessons. Though the estate has no formal spa, massage, acupuncture and other treatments are available. Off the estate, there’s minimal sightseeing or shopping, but there’s one trip-worthy tourist stop: The Baths National Park, a stunning beach accessible only via hiking through a series of boulders, ladders and grottoes. Be sure to wear water shoes and bring a bathing suit. When the water is calm, it’s a great place to snorkel and swim.

NOT TO MISS The view from Hog Heaven, atop one of Virgin Gorda’s highest peaks, is spectacular. Owned by a guy named Blondie — he’s also the captain of Xanadu — Hog Heaven is a barbecue joint with jaw-dropping views of distant Anegada, as well as the much closer islands Mosquito and Necker (owned by Branson) and Eustatia (owned by Page). If the views don’t take your breath away, Hog Heaven’s signature drink, the Painkiller, will: a concoction of rum, pineapple, coconut and orange juices, topped with fresh grated nutmeg. The name pretty much says it all. RATES Full estate buyout rates start with a four-guest min-

imum at $6,000 a night ($1,500 per person per night), plus a nightly $1,200 for each additional person. Rates are all-inclusive, including food and drink, in-house water sports, use of Xanadu and crew, and a full staff and chef. Guests do have to pay fuel costs for the yacht. The estate also offers “Escape Weeks,” when rooms rent individually at $2,500 per night and up. valleytrunk.com BY LAURA HILGERS m

EATS Restaurant options are limited on Virgin Gorda, but Valley Trunk has its own chef, Bernard Guilhaudin, who’s worked in Japan and Morocco and earned two Michelin stars at the Parisian restaurant Laurent. His international fare might include, for dinner, a lettuce and avocado salad topped with a spring roll, filet mignon with side of fennel, snap peas and tomatoes, and a basil sorbet for dessert. And for in-between meals, minibars in the suites are stocked with trail mix, sodas, bottled water, wine, beer and — what else? — small bottles of Veuve Clicquot. If you want to venture off the estate, check out Maya, a beachfront restaurant and cocktail lounge serving a blend of Asian and Latin cuisines, just a short drive from Valley Trunk. ROOMS Valley Trunk sleeps 16 in eight very private individual yet roomy suites. Each has its own bay-view terrace, large master bath, walk-in closet and Frette linens and Hermès bath amenities. M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 105

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Out & About C A L E N DA R / O N T H E S CE N E / D I N E

GALLERIES

Seager Gray Gallery Rodeo Beach Study by Kim Ford Kitz

LISTING ON PAGE 110

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Calendar

T H E AT E R / CO M E DY / M U S I C / G A L L E R I E S / M U S E U M S / E V E N T S / F I L M

E D I T E D B Y C A L I N VA N PA R I S

AUG 26–SEP 25 Othello Marin Shakespeare presents the classic tale of deceit, jealousy and love. Former California State Prison inmate Dameion Brown makes his stage debut in the title role. Dominican University Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marin shakespeare.org

DANCE AUG 5–7 LV Dance Collective presents Lorena Vey Travel to the foreign planet of Lorena Vey with this incredibly unique dance performance. Dance Mission Theater (SF). 415.826.4441, dancemission.com

MUSIC AUG 16 Culture Club Boy George and Culture Club transport you directly to the 1980s with their brand of danceable pop performed by the unique and flamb yant front man. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, thewarfieldtheatre.co THEATER THRU AUG 21 Twelfth Night The Bard’s classic gender-bending comedy celebrates love in all its wonky guises. Dominican University Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

AUG 5 The Little Mermaid Throckmorton Theatre presents a production of Disney’s The Little Mermaid in conjunction with Music Theatre International (MTI). Follow Ariel, a mermaid who yearns for legs and an understanding of the human experience. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley).

415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

location (SF). thespeakeasysf.com

AUG 12–OCT 1 The Speakeasy Experience the old-timey mystery of a 1920s speakeasy with this interactive theater experience. Choose a starting point — cabaret, bar or casino — don your finest clothes and enjoy an evening in the Prohibition era. Secret

AUG 17 The Puppet Company presents: Rabbit & Coyote Are Friends Celebrate the season with a bilingual puppet show designed to entertain local families of all backgrounds. Public library (Novato). 415.473.2050

AUG 12–14 Bay Area International Deaf Dance Festival Antoine Hunter’s Urban Jazz Dance, in partnership with Dance Mission Theater, presents an annual array of performances and workshops highlighting the important contributions deaf and hard-of-hearing artists make to the community. Dance Mission Theater (SF). 415.826.4441, dancemission.com

AUG 19–21 PERSpectives Dance Company Presents: What’s Your PERSpective This summer showcase offers up the collective works of artistic director Lindsey McLevis and the PDC company members, as well as talented guest companies and choreographers from around the Bay Area. Dance Mission Theater (SF). 415.826.4441, dancemission.com

COMEDY TUESDAYS Tuesday Night Comedy Funnies An evening of hilarity. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

MUSIC THRU AUG 21 Stern Grove Festival Celebrate Saturdays all summer at San Francisco’s storied Stern Grove Festival. Sigmund Stern Grove (SF). 415.252.6252, sterngrove.org AUG 1 Jerry Garcia 74th Birthday Celebration: Stu Allen and Mars Hotel Ring in the late Jerry Garcia’s birthday in rock ’n’ roll fashion with Stu Allen and Mars Hotel. Terrapin Crossroads (San

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Rafael). 415.524.2773, terrapincrossroads.net

415.383.9600, throck mortontheatre.org

AUG 5–7 Outside Lands One of San Francisco’s biggest music events is back with three days of unforgettable performances, this year from bands like Radiohead, Lana Del Rey, Duran Duran and Zedd. Golden Gate Park (SF). sfoutsidelands.com

AUG 21 Here Comes the Sun ... More Beatles Singers Marin’s allages summer chorus performs some of your favorite tunes from the Beatles, accompanied by a potluck picnic. Community Congregational Church (Tiburon). 415.383.3712, singersmarin.org

AUG 6 La Misa Negra This eight-piece Oakland-based group turns any evening into a party. The group’s unique blend of 1950sand ’60s-style cumbia and high-energy, AfroColombian dance music is powered by instrumentals and a vintage Colombian sound. Enjoy a pre-concert Latin dance class and food from El Huarache Loco. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org AUG 6 Natural Wonder This Stevie Wonder tribute band pays homage to the famed musician with a full band and high energy. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.3850, sweet watermusichall.com AUG 6 Petaluma Music Festival Jackie Greene, Steve Kimock, David Nelson and the Mother Hips headline. SonomaMarin Fairgrounds (Petaluma). petaluma musicfestival.org AUG 7 Jazz Sundays with Nathan Bickart Trio Enjoy original compositions and jazz standards performed by pianist, composer and educator Nathan Bickart and crew. Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley).

AUG 21 Moonalice This psychedelic roots-rock band melds a variety of genres to create an authentic San Francisco ’60s sound. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley). 415.388.3850, sweetwater musichall.com AUG 26 LaTiDo Enjoy an evening of salsa music from this Oakland-based Latin band. Part of the Pacheco Plaza summer music series, which also features alfresco dining, dessert and coffee. Pacheco Plaza (Novato). 415.883.4648, pachecoplaza.com AUG 29 MY2K Tour Take a trip back to the early aughts with an evening of performances from iconic era acts 98 Degrees, O-Town, Dream and Ryan Cabrera. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, the warfieldtheatre.com

GALLERIES MARIN Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com Art Works Downtown Phases A survey of works by Raylene

once around an arts & crafts store www.oncearound.com

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Out & About / CALENDAR

Room Art Gallery Works by both Bay Area artists and major masters; the largest collection of Picasso, Chagall and others in Marin County. 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.380.7940, roomartgallery.com Seager Gray Gallery California Works by Kim Ford Kitz, August 16–September 15. 108 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.384.8288, seagergray.com

Mother Hips at Petaluma Music Festival

Gorum, through August 5. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, art worksdowntown.org Bolinas Gallery Celebrating the Bolinas Surf Shop, established in 1963, through August 14. 52 Wharf Road, Bolinas. 415.868.0782, bolinas-gallery.com Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neo-Victorian and steampunk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506, bubblestreetgallery.com Claudia Chapline Gallery and Sculpture Garden Works by Claudia Chapline, Jim Garmhausen, Etta Deikman and others. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com Desta Gallery The Way of Art. 417 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.524.8932, destagallery.com

di Rosa Equilibrium: A Paul Kos Survey Western landscapes from San Francisco– based Paul Kos, through October 2. 5200 Carneros Hwy, Napa. 707.226.5991, dirosaart.org Falkirk Cultural Center 3D/3Seasons An exhibition of outdoor sculptures presented by Art Contemporary Marin, through September 20. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3328, falkirk culturalcenter.org Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, fineart tc.com Gallery Route One The Box Show This popular annual show benefits the gallery and features 150 artists who demonstrate what can be created with a simple wooden box, August

5–September 18. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org Headlands Center for the Arts Summer Project Space Exhibitions Two artists in residence present their work in the Project Space, through August 14. 944 Fort Barry, Sausalito. 415.331.2787, headlands.org Marin Society of Artists Featured Artists A member-juried show, August 13–27. 1515 3rd St, San Rafael. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyof artists.org Masterworks Kids’ Art Studio Youth art classes. 305B Montecito Drive, Corte Madera. 415.945.7945, master workskidsart.com Mine Gallery Original contemporary art. 1820 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Fairfax. 415.755.4472, gallerymine.com O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Bay Area Women Artists A 2016

exhibition of works by female artists from around the Bay Area, through August 25. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org Petri’s Fine Arts Featuring contemporary works in various mediums. 690 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.2626, petrisfineart .com Robert Allen Fine Art Group Exhibition Abstract works on canvas, August 4– September 30. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robert allenfineart.co Robert Beck Gallery Early California and contemporary plein air paintings. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org Robert Green Fine Arts Between Two Worlds Work by Charlotte Bernstrom. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfineart .com

Smith Andersen North Waking Dream Art by William Binzen, through August 27. 20 Greenfield Ave, San Anselmo. 415.455.9733, smith andersennorth.com Studio 333 Art and events. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info Studio 4 Art Work by local artists, classes and workshops with materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net The Blissful Gallery Oils, watercolors and prints by painter Emmeline Craig. 3415 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach, 415.868.2787, emmelinecraig.com Zener Schon Contemporary Art Contemporary works in various mediums by Eric Zener, Paige Smith, JD Wilson and others. 23 Sunnyside Ave, 415.738.8505, zener schongallery.com

SAN FRANCISCO

ArtHaus The Lake Art by John Wood. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Caldwell Snyder Gallery New works. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com California Historical Society Native Portraits: Contemporary Tintypes by Ed Drew A series of portraits of members of the Klamath, Modoc and Pit River Paiute tribes, through November 27. 678 Mission Street, SF, 415.357.1848, california historicalsociety.org Fouladi Projects Ongoing contemporary art — with a dash of whimsy — in a range of mediums. 1803 Market St, 415.621.2535, fouladiprojects.com George Lawson Gallery Four Photographers Works by Tama Hochbaum, Fabiola Mencheli, Susan Mikula, Paul Rickert, through August 27. 315 Potrero Ave, 415.703.4400, georgelawson gallery.com Gregory Lind Gallery Group Exhibition, through August 27. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com Hackett-Mill Original art. 201 Post St, 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com John Berggruen Gallery New works. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com Meyerovich Gallery Ongoing work in various mediums from modern and contemporary masters. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

RIC RUDGERS

Roberta English Art by Cheung Lee, Mayumi Oda, Li Huayi, Ju Ming and Toko Shinoda. 1615 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.2975, robertaenglish.com

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Pier 24 Photography Art from the Pilara Foundation collection. Pier 24, 415.512.7424, pier24.org Rena Bransten Projects Works by Lawrence Ferlinghetti, through August 21. 1639 Market St, 415.982.3292, rena branstengallery.com Thomas Reynolds Gallery Pieces by contemporary painters, most addressing the intersection of realism and abstraction. 2291 Pine St, 415.441.4093, thomasreynolds.com

MUSEUMS MARIN Bay Area Discovery Museum Imagine, create and transform while exploring the unique museum’s ongoing exhibits (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org Bolinas Museum Human Impact on Bolinas Lagoon: A Timeline, through August 14 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org Marin Museum of the American Indian The Land of the Ancestors Photographs of ancestral Puebloan sites by Tom Benoit, through August (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Juried Artists of MarinMOCA Member Show More than 170 artist members fill both the Main Gallery and the Ron Collins Gallery, through August 28 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Extracted: A Trilogy by Ranu Mukherjee Mukherjee draws inspiration from California’s Gold Rush, the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, the ancient text The Classic of Mountain and Seas and the museum’s own collection in this exhibit, commissioned for the museum’s 50th anniversary, through August 14 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org

Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu Legion of Honor California BookWorks Modern and contemporary artists’ books and portfolios allow viewers to see the state from the vantage point of creators, through October 16 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionof honor.famsf.org

California Academy of Sciences The past, present and future of our solar system, narrated by George Takei. (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

Museum of Craft and Design Lines That Tie Works by Carole Beadle and Lia Cook, through August 7 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

Conservatory of Flowers The Wild Bunch: Succulents, Cacti and Fat Plants The conservatory celebrates the world’s water-hoarding plants in this roughand-tumble exhibit, through October 16 (SF). 415.831.2090, con servatoryofflowers.org

Oakland Museum of California Altered State: Marijuana in California The first-ever museum exhibition to focus on marijuana in California today, through September 25 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org

Contemporary Jewish Museum Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition A comprehensive look at the full breadth of the work of the legendary filmmaker, with production photography, set models, costumes, props and more, through October 30 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

Sonoma Valley Museum of Art Surf Craft: The Design and Culture of Board Riding Examine the evolution of surfboard design, featuring American makers and shapers of all kinds of wave-riding boards, through September 25 (Sonoma). svma.org

de Young Ed Ruscha and the Great American West Works that reveal the artist’s engagement with the American West and its starring role in our national mythology, through October 9 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

The Walt Disney Family Museum Mel Shaw: An Animator on Horseback The first-ever retrospective of the life and work of Disney animator, creative and master horseman Mel Shaw, through September 12 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Murmur Wall Designed by Future Cities Lab, the Murmur Wall is a combination of sculpture, light and data collection along the wall at the main entrance to YBCA, through 2016 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

SPOTLIGHT

EVENTS THRU AUG 31 Wild Flowers Head to the San Francisco Botanical Garden to observe a wide and varied selection of seasonal blooms, from dogwood to blue puya. S.F. Botanical Garden (SF). 415.661.1316, sf botanicalgarden.org AUG 5–7 American Craft Show The American Craft Council’s weekend event is specially curated for craft collectors and design enthusiasts alike. See handcrafted jewelry, furniture, apparel and home decor created by more than 220 artists from across the country. Also, get interactive with the Style Slam. Fort Mason Center (SF). 612.206.3100, craftcouncil.org AUG 6 Novato Space Festival Five legendary astronauts from the Apollo moon missions and space shuttle program head to Novato for this unique and educational festival, which also features exhibits from NASA and the Space Station Museum. The Space Station Museum (Novato). 415.524.3940, thespacestationca.org AUG 7 The Leukemia SUP Cup Participate or watch as stand-up paddleboarders race in a fundraiser for

Dog Days

Dick Bright’s canine-centric release.

UGUST 31 M A R KS NATIONA L

Dog Day, and this year there’s a sou nd track to match t he festivities. Canine Classics, Volume 1 features Dottie, an American bulldog, on the cover and celebrates all things dog inside. The man behind the music is none other than longtime Greenbrae resident Dick Bright, who has played with the likes of Huey Lewis, Bonnie Raitt, Carlos Santana and more. Af ter successfully presenting some dog-themed ly rics while play ing Sa n Fra ncisco SPCA’s Bark and W hine Ball, Bright and his production partner decided to put out an official record. The CD’s song titles include “SPCA” (a take on “YMCA”), “Walk Like a Dalmatian” (rif f ing on “Walk Like an Egyptian”) and “Turning Pekingese” (echoing “Turning Japanese”). caninicaproductions.com KASIA PAWLOWSKA

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Out & About / CALENDAR blood cancers research. Corinthian Yacht Club (Tiburon). 415.625.1139, llsupcup.org AUG 7 Opera Guild Champagne Gala Enjoy champagne, hors d’oeuvres and performances by upand-coming opera stars at this benefit for opera education programs in the Marin schools and the public lectures previewing the 2016–2017 season. San Domenico Music Conservatory (San Anselmo). 415.924.9352, sfopera.com AUG 13 Summer Carnival Help close out the Novato Public Library’s summer learning program with a carnival-style celebration. Games, face painting and a circus

show. Public library (Novato). 415.473.2050 AUG 13 Glide’s Legacy Gala Glide’s annual gala this year celebrates half a century of love, leadership and community with music, food and drink, and honors for three individuals who are important local agents of change. Regency Ballroom (SF). 415.674.6060, glide.org AUG 13–14 Gravenstein Apple Fair Enjoy live music, arts and crafts, activities, local food and wine and — of course — Sebastopol’s famous heirloom Gravenstein apples, which will be celebrated in many forms. Ragle Ranch Park (Sebastopol). 707.837.8896, graven steinapplefair.com

AUG 14 The French Market This outdoor antique market features art, books, textiles, vintage and estate jewelry, furniture, prints and much more, along with French music and crepes. Marin Civic Center (San Rafael). 415.383.2252, golden gateshows.com AUG 18–22 Ringling Brothers and Barnum and Bailey: Out of This World The traditional circus experience is heightened by spaceage themes as the Circus Space Fleet takes audiences on an imaginative futuristic journey. Oracle Arena (Oakland). ringling.com AUG 25–28 Eat Drink SF Eat, drink and be merry at San Francisco’s premier

S E C A P S SAN FR ANCI

| NA SCO | MARIN

PA | SONOMA

food, wine and spirits festival. Four days of events highlight the city’s unique and vibrant culinary cuisine. Various locations (SF). eatdrink-sf.com

FILM AUG 3–20 Teatro alla Scala: The Temple of Wonders Journey through time and space to Milan’s Teatro alla Scala, which has long been a home to the greatest artists in music, opera and ballet. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net AUG 4–6 Romeo and Juliet Kenneth Branagh reunites the stars of his film Cinderella — Richard Madden and Lily James

— onstage in this classic Shakespearean play about forbidden love. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

NATURE WALKS & TALKS ONGOING First Tuesday ArtWalk Join the Mill Valley Arts Commission’s monthly stroll through town to view exhibits by local artists. Various locations (Mill Valley). cityofmillvalley.org ONGOING Free First Wednesdays Visit the Bay Area Discovery Museum the first Wednesday each month for an outing full of exploration and fun. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito).

415.339.3900, bay kidsmuseum.org ONGOING Sunday Hikes on Mount Tam Cap off our weekend with a three- to fivemile group hike up Mount Tamalpais, led by a Friends of Mount Tam volunteer. Various locations (Mill Valley). 415.258.2410, friendsofmttam.org AUG 1 Hungry Owl Project The whole family can learn about local owls from an expert, with a live owl on hand. Inverness Library (Inverness). 415.669.1288 AUG 5 Kent Island Restoration To help restore the unique ecosystem of Kent Island in Bolinas Lagoon, remove invasive species and

SAME MAGAZINE, NEW NAME. Marin At Home will now be called SPACES to reflect our expanded editorial coverage region. Join Editor-In-Chief Zahid Sardar as he discovers stunning homes and outstanding designs throughout San Francisco, Marin, Napa and Sonoma; with expanded distribution into San Francisco and Wine Country, and a select mailing to local interior designers. On newsstands January and July 2017.

C MARIN MAGI ING OUTDOOR LIV CITY STYLE E PIED-A-TERR Y WINE COUNTR RETREATS WINT ER/S PRIN

Advertising space reservation: November 3, 2016 Contact: Associate Publisher Debra Hershon dhershon@marinmagazine.com

G 2017

NEXT ISSUE JANUARY 2017

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learn other protective measures. Public dock (Bolinas). 415.473.3778, marincountyparks.org AUG 6 Aramburu Island Enhancement Join Richardson Bay Audubon Center in its effort to covert this island from a forgotten, eroding area to a thriving habitat for shorebirds and wildlife. Richardson Bay Audubon Center (Tiburon). 415.763.2977, richard sonbay.audubon.org AUG 7 Art in the Park At McNears Beach Park, a day of observing the scenery and painting and drawing what you see. All skill levels are welcome; snacks are provided. McNears Beach Park (San

Rafael). 415.446.4424, marincountyparks.org AUG 7 Redwoods, Climate Change and Citizen Science Join Marin County Parks and Save the Redwoods League to learn about the coast redwood. Discuss the potential effects of climate change and work together to document the wealth of biodiversity within this ecosystem. Roy’s Redwood Preserve (San Geronimo). 415.893.9508, marin countyparks.org AUG 8–11 Angel Island Summer Photo Excursion for Kids This four-day intermediate-level summer photography workshop for kids ages 11–14 includes a day trip to

Angel Island and postprocessing sessions. The Image Flow (Mill Valley). 415.388.3569, theimageflo .com AUG 13 Astronomy Viewing Night: Perseids Meter Shower An evening under the stars: study the night sky through a telescope and witness the Perseids meter shower, which will be at its height. Mount Burdell Preserve (Novato). 415.473.2816, marincountyparks.org AUG 17 Olompali in the 1960s: The Grateful Dead, the Chosen Family and More Breck Parkman, senior state archaeologist for California State Parks, discusses the Olompali site, home to the Grateful Dead in 1966 and later home of the

Chosen Family commune. Public library (Novato). 415.473.2050 AUG 20 Family Hike at Roy’s Redwoods Bring the entire family for a hike amid picturesque bay trees interspersed with towering redwoods. Roy’s Redwoods (Woodacre). 415.456.7283, wildcarebayarea.org AUG 27 Nature Walk at King Mountain Explore the King Mountain trail loop with a ranger and learn about the area’s unique natural resources on this moderate hike. King Mountain Preserve (Kentfield). 415.473.2816, marin countyparks.org

AUG 27 Tour de Fox 2016 Series Cyclists can opt for a 73-mile, 51-mile, 31.5-mile or 10-mile ride in support of Parkinson’s Disease research. Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens (Santa Rosa). tourdefox. michaeljfox.org AUG 27 Ring Mountain Grassland Restoration A day of volunteer trail work designed to keep Ring Mountain thriving. Protect the endangered Tiburon mariposa lily by finding and removing invasive tocolote and yellow star thistles, and finish the day with storytelling for the kids. Ring Mountain (Tiburon). 415.473.3778, marin countyparks.org

AUG 28 Lake Fishing for Kids Practice sinking lines with a ranger, no experience necessary. Bait and fishing poles are provided by the Department of Fish and Wildlife; a fishing license is required for ages 16 and over. Stafford Lake Park (Novato). 415.897.0618, marincountyparks.org AUG 31 The Bay Trail and the New Hamilton Wetlands Walk along the newly restored wetlands of the Hamilton Airfield; restoration began in 2014 when water from San Pablo Bay was sent through a levee to flood a square mile of land. Hamilton Wetlands Preserve (Novato). 415.893.9508

The Tiburon Peninsula Foundation will soon bring yesterday into today—and you can be a part of it. Trestle Trail, overlooking Blackie’s Pasture, will stretch over 600-feet and feature 40-feet of historic track. There will be 60 “Donor Ties,” each with a bronze plaque reflecting the donor’s thoughts, memorial or favorite quote. Also available are “Donor Spikes,” an integral part of the historic rail exhibit. This is your chance to a part of the history of the Tiburon Peninsula. In the above photo, circled in white are the only remaining timbers of the 130-year-old trestle.

Donor Ties with bronze plaques: $2,000 donation Donor Spikes: $900 Gold, $600 Silver, $300 Bronze, $150 Original Trestle Trail • Walk Your Railroad History • 415.435.1853 • trestletrail.org The “Big Four Plus One” committee: railroad historian Phil Cassou, architect David Holscher, businessman Tom O’Neill, community leader Peyton Stein and Marin Magazine co-founder Jim Wood.

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Dine A N I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E T O R E S TA U R A N T S A N D G O O D F O O D I N T H E B AY A R E A

E DITE D BY MIMI TOWLE

CORTE MADERA BOCA PIZZERIA Italian This Italian-inspired pizzeria utilizes Northern California’s bounty of seasonal ingredients and showcases local microbreweries and wine country’s boutique varietals. The menu includes large selections of appetizers to share, organic salads when available, pastas, local free-range poultry and meats, desserts and Neapolitan-style pizzas with house-made mozzarella. 1544 Redwood Hwy, 415.924.3021, bocapizzeria.com s $$ s ∞ C LD º

Pork bowl with papadum

• DABBA Indian Inspired by the Indian-Mexican restaurant Avatar’s in Mill Valley, this latest twist on the concept comes from tech entrepreneur Andy Mercy and former French Laundry and Spruce chef, Walter Abrams. Applying Abrams’ precision, palate and creativity to global culinary traditions, Dabba offers worldly flavors “wrapped in a California state of mind.” 71 Stevenson St, 415.236.3984, dabba.com b $$ ∞ LD

BRICK & BOTTLE California Seasonal selections made with local ingredients are the specialty here, with service also available for private parties and catered events. Enjoy signature dishes like orzo mac ’n’ cheese with smoked Gouda and petrale sole and tomato-braised short ribs. The restaurant has been voted “Best Happy Hour,” by Marin Magazine readers. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com s $$$ s ∞ C D º

IL FORNAIO Italian This upscale Italian restaurant franchise’s menu offers, aside from the pizzas and pastas, a variety of salads and carb-free entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR MARIN JOE’S Italian This Marin mainstay has been around for over 50 years. Choose from a menu of soups, salads, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and a plethora of pasta options. For a fun addition to your dining experience, order the Caesar salad — the server will prepare the dressing at your table. Not looking for a meal? Enjoy a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marin joesrestaurant.com s $$ s C LD PIG IN A PICKLE American Fresh local ingredients and the highest-quality brisket, pork, ribs and chicken comprise the menu of this Town Center eatery. Sauces are crafted to represent the best American barbecue regions, from Memphis to South Carolina. House-made pickles,

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buns and sausages will keep you coming back. 341 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.891.3265, pig inapicklebbq.com b $$$ s ∞ BLD

FAIRFAX 123 BOLINAS California Created by four friends wanting to showcase seasonal fare in a relaxing, intimate environment, this cozy, one-room eatery offers locally brewed beer, small-production wines and seasonal food along with the view of Bolinas Park through the floorto-ceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com b $$ s ∞ D º GRILLY’S Mexican If you’re looking for a quick, fresh meal, Grilly’s is an easy and delicious stop. Pick up a couple burritos and the much-loved chicken taco salad and you have a lunch or dinner to please the whole family. 1 Bolinas Ave, 415.457.6171, grillys.com $ s ∞ C BLD SORELLA CAFFE Italian Run by sisters Sonia and Soyara, Sorella, which means “sister” in Italian, serves fresh Italian food with a northern influence. Customer favorites include the cioppino, butternut squash ravioli and Pollo alla Sorella. Another highlight is the giant wheel of Grana Padana cheese. And if that isn’t enough, stop by for live music every second and fourth Thursday of the month, as well as accordion music every Friday and a piano, bass and drums combo every Saturday. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520, sorellacaffe.co b $$$ s D

LARKSPUR AMALFI RISTORANTE Italian Antonio Volpicelli, of Don Antonio in Tiburon, has taken over the old Fabrizio space and filled it with more traditional Italian cuisine. The menu offers an assortment of classic dishes like orgonzola gnocchi, veal parmesan, carbonara and an extensive wine list. Guests are welcome to enjoy any one of these items on the spacious outdoor patio. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, amalfi ristorantelarkspur.com b $$ ∞ LD EL HUARACHE LOCO Mexican The menu has gained quite a following for the authentic Mexico City dishes. From mini huaraches (filled corn masa cakes) to the foot-long huarache with two salsas, crema, queso fresco and two toppings of your choice, you’re sure to get a true taste of a homemade Mexican meal. Marin Country Mart, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.1403, huaracheloco.com b $ s ∞ BLD FARM HOUSE LOCAL California This downtown Larkspur gem is sure to please with simple, healthy food in a warm, cozy atmosphere — both inside and outside on the covered patio. The seasonal menu follows what is fresh and local with dishes such as fluffy omelets stuffed with local meats, cheeses and vegetables. 25 Ward St, 415.891.8577, farm houselocal.com b $$ s ∞ BL

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Out & About / DINE Pan-Pacific Seafood Trio at Michael Mina, S.F.

MARIN BREWING CO. American Grab a cold beer made on site and pair it with fish ’n’ chips — in this case fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. Marin Country Mart, 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com b $$ s ∞ LD º PERRY’S American The San Francisco mainstay has opened another new location, this time across the bridge in Larkspur, bringing with it its wide selection of salads, steaks and comfort favorites like French onion soup. Replacing the Lark Creek Inn, the skylights bring in plenty of natural light and an expanded bar is ideal for sipping the restaurant’s famed bloody mary’s. Valet parking is offered and brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.1877, perryssf.com s $$ LD º

PICCO California Popular since its inception, Picco has a seasonally driven menu featuring items such as risotto (made every half hour) that keep patrons coming back. Pizzeria Picco next door is famous for its wood-fired pizzas, wine selection and softserve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com s $$$ s ∞ C D RUSTIC BAKERY California This homegrown bakery is known and loved the world over. In fact, Pope Francis famously requested Rustic Bakery flatbread and crostini when he visited the United States in 2015. Bread that’s baked fresh each morning in addition to granola, cookies, muffins and croissants make this a local staple. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556; 2017 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.9900; rusticbakery.com b $$ s ∞ BLD BR

MILL VALLEY BALBOA CAFE MILL VALLEY California The San Francisco institution has become a place to see and be seen in Mill Valley, especially after 142 Throckmorton comedy nights. Menu includes Niman flatiron steak, braised beef brisket risotto and classic burgers. 38 Miller Ave, 415.381.7321, balboacafe.com s $$$ ∞ LD BR º

addicting ones at this Tam Valley eatery. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to return to sample the Chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl. A casual lunch spot and great for takeout, Cafe del Soul now offers a range of quinoa options. 247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net $ s ∞ LD

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and Chili-Lime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm, dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com s $$ C LD BR

EL PASEO American This award-wining eatery in the heart of downtown Mill Valley has been voted most romantic restaurant in Northern California. Built from Mount Tam railroad ties and brick in 1947, El Paseo was restored by owner Sammy Hagar in 2009. The menu offers California and European fare and an extensive wine list. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com b $$$ ∞ C D

CAFE DEL SOUL California Healthy options become

HARMONY Chinese Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this

restaurant, nestled in the Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is filled with housemade roasted meat in a savory sauce, and fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Be sure to check out the weekday lunch special for an excellent deal. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmony restaurantgroup.com b $$ s LD

MOLINA California Focusing on woodfired, California coastal cuisine, the menu features items cooked in the famed Alan Scott oven and selected from Marin County’s farmers’ markets, including shellfish, oysters, rabbit, pig, quail and cattle. Both the menu and the music change nightly. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, molinarestaurant.com b $$$ ∞ D BR

INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite with the takeout crowd; eating on site is also a treat. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350, india palacemillvalley.com b $$ s LD

PIZZA ANTICA Italian This Italianinspired restaurant in Strawberry Village offers much more than impeccably prepared thin-crust pizzas. The seasonal dishes are created with local ingredients and include chopped salads, housemade pastas, and meat, fish and fowl entrees, such as the Tuscan fried chicken and roasted pork chop. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com b $$ s LD BR º

LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth here can take awhile. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff s also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224, laginestramv.com s $$ s D PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff rides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com s $$ s ∞ C LD BR

PRABH INDIAN KITCHEN Indian Owned and operated by the Singh family, this restaurant is dedicated to serving healthy, organic and sustainable food, including gluten-free and vegan options. Dishes include chicken pakora, vegetable biryani and basil garlic nan. Try the thali menu (offered at lunch), a selection of several Indian dishes served at once. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.384.824, prabhindiankitchen.com b $$ s ∞ LD ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fireside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fire and served in appetizer-size

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portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entree from the menu. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com b $$ s LD SHORELINE COFFEE SHOP American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a funky diner with a smalltown feel. Check out the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085 b $$ s ∞ BL BR SOL FOOD Puerto Rican This Marin favorite has opened in Mill Valley, still serving up everyone’s favorite Puerto Rican cuisine. The line can get long, but the food is well worth it. 401 Miller Ave, 415.380.1986, solfoodrestaurant.com $$ s ∞ BLD TAMALPIE Italian Owner Karen Goldberg designed this restaurant with a large group seating area, indoor and outdoor fireplaces, and a small casual bar. The food is Italian home cooking with the daily modern inspiration of locally sourced seasonal ingredients found in the salads, house-made pastas and crispy Neapolitan style pizza, with a selection of beer and wine to match. 477 Miller Ave, 415.388.7437, tamalpiepizza.com s $$ s ∞ C LD THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch.

615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com s $$ s ∞ LD URBAN REMEDY Juice With a selection of juices, snacks and bowls including plenty of gluten-free, grain-free, and low-glycemic-index options, this is a popular stop. Raw desserts round things out. Try the namesake salad or give the cashew milk with cinnamon and vanilla a shot to see what Urban Remedy is all about. 15 E Blithedale Ave, 415.383.5300, urbanremedy.com $$ ∞ BLD VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience in this one-room trattoria. Try one of the pasta dishes or thincrust wood-fired pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vasco millvalley.com s $$ s D

NOVATO BOCA PIZZERIA Italian Enjoy authentic pizza prepared with fresh mozzarella made in-house daily and tomatoes imported from Italy. Other menu items include grilled rosemary chicken sandwiches and braised beef short rib pappardelle. Enjoy weekly specials, such as 50 percent off all wines by the bottle on Wednesdays and half off raft beers on Thursdays. 454 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.2302, bocapizzeria.com b $$ s ∞ C LD HILLTOP 1892 California In a historic country estate in Novato with sweeping views, enjoy classic favorites with

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With Marin At Home editor-in-chief Zahid Sardar embark on an unforgettable cultural adventure by plane, boat, and private coach, that will unfold in January, against India’s exciting backdrop. Travel from Delhi to Mughal Agra and the Taj Mahal to princely Rajasthan, see 2nd Century Ajanta/Ellora Buddhist caves, visit colorful Kochi, languid Kerala backwaters and exhilarating Mumbai. We’ll stay in luxurious 5-star comfort in palace hotels yet go off the beaten track. Limited to 14. So, book now. For details contact ZSATours@gmail.com

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Out & About / FLAVOR

RECIPE

Salmon Tail and Chimichurri a la Scoma SERVES 1–2 PEOPLE

Ingredients 3 tablespoons fresh garlic, minced 6 tablespoons fresh peeled ginger, minced ¾ cup rice vinegar 4 teaspoons Red Boat fish sauce (or other quality brand) 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons fresh black pepper 1 cup gently packed chopped cilantro or parsley 1½ cups gently packed chopped mint 1 cup gently packed thin-sliced scallions (equal amounts white and green) 1 cup rice oil ¼ cup water 2 limes 1 salmon tail, cut about 3 inches up into the meat Ligurian olive oil (to coat) Maldon sea salt (to taste) Seasonal farmers’ market vegetables (baby Nantes carrots, French breakfast radishes, pickled ramps, baby turnips with tops) 1 lemon, sliced

This Sausalito restaurant serves seafood you can feel good about eating.

H AT’S GREAT A BOUT being part of the Scoma’s family is having a soapbox to talk about responsibility,” says chef Gordon Drysdale. Drysdale, of Gordon’s House of Fine Eats and Bacchus Management Group fame, has been Scoma’s culinary director for nearly two years; the responsibility he’s referring to is environmental. Since the beginning of his tenure he’s been committed to serving seafood that follows the guidelines of the Seafood Watch Program, helping the iconic Bridgeway restaurant stay relevant in the process. “The Scoma’s boat is approved for salmon and Dungeness crab and fishes seasonally, going out from Pier 47,” Drysdale says. “Millennials are concerned about where their food comes from,” but so are others, he adds, noting that diners today are more knowledgeable in general. Scoma’s is famous for being a longtime family-run business: In 1969, partners Al and Joe Scoma and Victor and Roland Gotti purchased the site that became Scoma’s Sausalito, and the collaboration between the families continues to this day, with second- and third-generation members running the show. This recipe for fresh salmon tail and chimichurri is an example of the revamped fare under Drysdale’s leadership. scomassausalito.com KASIA PAWLOWSKA

DEBRA TARRANT

“W

Gone Fishing

To Prepare For chimichurri 1 Add garlic and ginger to the vinegar, fish sauce, salt and pepper; let macerate for one hour. 2 Add cilantro or parsley, mint, scallions, rice oil, water and zest of two limes. 3 Stir well and adjust seasoning if necessary. 4 Cover tightly and place in the refrigerator. For salmon tail 1 Take salmon tail, rub lightly with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt, and reserve refrigerated until one hour before serving. 2 Prep vegetables: wash everything thoroughly and carefully, and dry as much as possible; the vegetables could be the ones pictured or any mix of fresh, pickled, sautéed or steamed vegetables that go well with salmon. 3 Just before serving time, light a fire in the grill; let fire burn down to a medium-hot level so salmon skin doesn’t burn or stick. 4 Clean grates thoroughly, then oil them well. 5 Add the salmon tail and cook about 5–7 minutes first side. 6 Flip and cook about 4–5 minutes on second side. 7 Let tail rest for 5 minutes, then plate it surrounded by lemons, vegetables, chimichurri and olive oil and serve.

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a California flair. There’s a private banquet room for special events. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º MARVIN’S RESTAURANT American Voted “Best Breakfast in Novato,” this spot is known for serving up generous portions of Americanstyle breakfast and lunch fare at a great value. The corned beef hash, benedicts and superb service attract a consistent crowd all year round. 1112 Grant Ave, 415.892.4482 $s∞ RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic pastries, breads, salads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including daily seasonal specials. Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com b $$ s ∞ BLD BR THE SPEAKEASY American There’s nothing like the comfort of a solid burger and beer when you’re kicking back and watching the game, and the Speakeasy provides you with just that. In addition to the 10 beers on tap, you can go beyond traditional pub grub with treats like a deconstructed salmon salad. 504 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.7793, thespeakeasynovato.com bº

SAN ANSELMO COMFORTS CAFE American Established

in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down patio and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. A large take-out section offers fresh bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and even entrees for dinner at home. Besides the famous and popular Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stuffed pecan-crusted French toast, flavorful scrambles, Chicken Okasan ( nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans) and wonton soup. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com b $$ s ∞ BL BR L’APPART RESTO French French specialties, local favorites and a $35 three- course prix fixe menu are served up in an energetic yet sophisticated environment. Check out the live music on Thursdays. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com b $$ s ∞ LD BR M.H. BREAD AND BUTTER California This one-stop shop offers everything from coffee and pastries to artisan bread and braised meats. High-quality ingredients and a comfortable atmosphere make MH worth checking out. 101 San Anselmo Ave, 415.755.4575, mhbreadandbutter.com $$ s ∞ BL BR VALENTI & CO. Italian This bright and cozy space is the ideal environment for authentic Italian dishes made with local ingredients. A seat at the chef’s table gives a prime view of the open kitchen. 337 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.7800, valentico.com b $$$ D

SAN RAFAEL GREEN CHILE KITCHEN Mexican Don’t let the name fool you; while green chilies are present on the menu, many other varieties are also featured. From the organic, house made, blue corn tortillas to the red chile chicken wings, this restaurant located in downtown San Rafael offers a cornucopia of hues and flavors. 1335 Fourth St, 415.521.5691, greenchilekitchen.com b $$ s LD FLATIRON American The remodeled Flatiron is where refined American bar food lives happily in its ideal environment – among a bevy of craft beers. Owned by the Strickers, a husband and wife duo, this polished sports bar offers food like chili lime cauliflower, classic sandwiches, as well as truffle and waffle fries in a space that also features classic arcade games. 724 B St, 415.453.4318, flatironsanrafael.com s $$ LD º IL DAVIDE Italian The large selection of innovative and classic Tuscan dishes and house-made pasta has kept locals coming back for years. Ingredients are organic and locally sourced where possible, and there’s a vast selection of both Italian and California wines by the glass. Don’t leave without trying the limoncello. 901 A St, 415.454.8080, ildavide.net s $$$ s ∞ C LD RANGE CAFE American With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grand Peacock Gap lawns, the Range Cafe is the perfect place for

comforting American classics with an elegant twist. This inviting lunchtime cafe with its ice-cold lemonade and refreshing chardonnays makes a great dinner spot once the sun sets. 333 Biscayne Dr, 415.454.6450, rangecafe.net s $$ s ∞ C BLD º VIN ANTICO American Vin Antico, “where passion meets the plate,” serves seasonal marketinspired cuisine like stone-oven-baked flatbreads, handmade pastas and organic salads, all innovatively prepared. The kitchen is open to the dining room and there’s a full bar with artisan cocktails. 881 Fourth St, 415.721.0600, vinantico.com s $$ s C LD º

SAUSALITO BAR BOCCE American Food just tastes better on a bayside patio with fire pits and a bocce ball court. Order one of the sourdough bread pizzas and a glass of wine and you’ll see why this casual eatery, overseen by Robert Price of Buckeye and Bungalow 44, has become a local favorite. 1250 Bridgeway, 415.331.0555, barbocce.com s $$ s ∞ LD BARREL HOUSE TAVERN California Stop by Barrel House for great local food enhanced by fantastic bay and city views. The relaxed urban setting is a perfect match for the barrel-aged cocktails. 660 Bridgeway, 415.729.9593, barrelhousetavern.com s $$$ s ∞ LD º

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FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS Opening of Hawai‘i Island Coast to Coast Birding Trail Guest speakers including Dr. Sam Gon III (The Nature Conservancy of Hawai‘i) Guided field trips on land and sea Trade show for outdoor and birding equipment Bird-themed arts and crafts fair Photography and painting workshops

For more information and registration: hawaiibirdingtrails.com FOLLOW HAWAII ISLAND BIRDING TRAIL ON

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Out & About / DINE

• TOMATINA Italian Tomatina takes a modern approach to traditional Italian recipes. Offering housemade pasta, pizzas and signature piadine: fresh, hot flatbreads topped with cool salads, ready to fold and eat. 5800 Northgate Mall, 415.479.3200, tomatina.com s $$ s ∞ LD º

Mama’s Spaghetti and Meatballs

DAVEY JONES DELI American Stationed in the New Bait Shop Market, Davey Jones Deli offers houseroasted sandwich meats, healthy condiments and local, organic vegetables; the deli serves sandwiches, veggie-wiches, wraps and salads with vegetarian, vegan and meat-lover options. Because the sandwiches are so generous, this easy stop is great during a day of boating, biking, hiking, and general adventuring around Marin. Gate 6 Rd, 415.331.2282, daveyjonesdeli.com b $$ s ∞ L F3/FAST FOOD FRANCAIS French Owned and operated by the owners of Le Garage, F3 serves brunch, lunch and dinner featuring “Frenchified” American

comfort food. A rotating menu includes items like the Luxe burger (Diestel turkey, brie, lettuce and a fried egg topped with truffle aioli). Enjoy with a side of Brussels sprout chips or pommes dauphines (tater tots). 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, eatf3.com s $$ s ∞ LD BR KITTI’S PLACE Thai/ California This homestyle family restaurant has been in Sausalito 20 years and features favorites like lettuce cups, soft spring rolls and weekly specials. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com b $$ s ∞ LD LE GARAGE French Escape the tourist crush for an indulgent Sausalito brunch right on the water. The

atmosphere is animated with light French music (à la Amélie), and the much-adored croquemonsieur is under $10. Indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com b $$$ s ∞ BLD BR MURRAY CIRCLE American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Stop by Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR POGGIO Italian Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates Northern

Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients. Private dining rooms above the restaurant can accommodate larger parties (10 to 150 guests). 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD SCOMA’S OF SAUSALITO Italian The Scoma’s boat fishes seasonally, going out from Pier 47 and is approved for salmon and Dungeness crab resulting in fresh catches year-round. The menu regularly features whole crabs, chowders, grilled fish and house specialties. 588 Bridgeway, 415.332.9551, scomas sausalito.com s $$ C LD SUSHI RAN Japanese Sample innovative small plates just big

enough to share before enjoying some of the best sushi the Bay Area has to offer; the prices don’t deter the herd of enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake. Just stopping by? The wine, cocktail and sake lists keep even the pickiest barfly satisfied. Reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com s $$ ∞ LD

TIBURON CAPRICE California Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in this romantic dinner spot. Take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $25, and don’t miss prime rib Mondays. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com s $$$ D RUSTIC BAKERY California The newest location of this beloved bakery offers the same menu as the other locations as well as outdoor dining. Enjoy a wide selection of fresh salads, sandwiches and pastries on the boardwalk. 1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.797.6123, rusticbakery.com b $$ s C BLD BR SALT & PEPPER American This sunfilled one-room restaurant, featuring hardwood floors and blue-checkered tablecloths, is an area favorite. Popular items include scallops, ribeye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594 b s ∞ LD

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American Sam’s deck is a popular spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Sample a seasonal menu served all day, every day. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian Chef and owner Angelo Servino highlights organic ingredients in an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas, and seasonal specialties. Located on the bay in Tiburon, Servino also prides itself on itsextensive sustainable seafood program. Savor la dolce vita on the waterfront patio. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º

WEST MARIN NICK’S COVE American Nick’s Cove offers a coastal escape on Tomales Bay, serving famous barbecued local oysters, Dungeness crab mac ’n’ cheese and cocktails using home-grown ingredients. Large windows in the 130seat restaurant provide picturesque views of Tomales Bay and Hog Island. (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR OSTERIA STELLINA California Whether it’s to cap off a ay of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osteria Stellina suits any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired and features local, organic

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ADVERTISING PR O MOTIO N

Serving Marin County since 1954, Marin Joe’s offers award-winning food, a full bar, live music and a classic ambience. Known for our Italian cuisine, we also serve up fan favorites: steak, cheeseburger and table-side Caesar salad. We have a festive banquet room available for parties.

Why choose a single cut when you can feast on a dozen specialty cooked meats on live embers presented by dashing servers? Pikanhas Brazilian Steakhouse has developed a faithful following, ranked amongst the best local steakhouses. Come visit our cozy restaurant for an outstanding experience!

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Serving Lunch, Dinner and Weekend Breakfast. RangeCafe Bar and Grill, located on the course at Peacock Gap Golf Club, offers a delicious array of dining options to satisfy the whole family. All items are freshly prepared and served in a relaxed and inviting environment.

On the Bay with unobstructed views, Scoma’s delights with incredibly fresh, creative food and warm, personal service. We offer steaming whole crabs, hearty chowders, clams, perfectly grilled fish and specialties. Seasonal offerings and perennial favorites keep the menu as lively and colorful as the daily catch.

RangeCafe Bar and Grill 333 Biscayne Drive San Rafael, CA

Scoma’s Sausalito 588 Bridgeway Sausalito, CA

bar and grill

415.454.6450 rangecafe.net

415.332.9551 scomassausalito.com

A block away from the Rafael, Vin Antico for pre movie oysters, or small bites after the movie. Our chef’s counter is specifically designed for dinner and a show. San Rafael’s only Farm to Table restaurant. Lunch and dinner. Happy Hour Mon-Fri, full bar, private dining space. Speakeasy open upstairs. Dining in? Try one of the great recipes in Organic Marin. Produced by Marin Magazine, this seasonal cookbook celebrates the organic farmers of Marin County and over 40 delicious recipes from local restaurants. Go to marinmagazine.com/organicmarin

Vin Antico 881 4th Street San Rafael, CA

415.721.0600 vinantico.com

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ingredients and seafood on its everyday menu. 1090 Point Lobos, 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.com s $$ s BLD MICHAEL MINA Japanese/French Michael Mina has clearly mastered the fine line between award-winning art and Alaskan halibut. Each brilliantly crafted dish gives diners a delicate blend of flavors that add up to a distinctive, luxurious dining experience. 252 California St, 415.397.9222, michaelmina.net s $$$ LD

ingredients. If you’re up for something unusual, try the goat shoulder, a hit with both tourists and locals (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com b $$ s LD PARKSIDE CAFE American Perfect for a sit-down alfresco meal or for grabbing a burger to enjoy on the beach. Beautiful patio garden seating, ocean views, and private wood-fired dinners make this café a relaxing retreat. If you’re on the go, check out the new market and bakery. Choose from an array of organic, locally grown produce, artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD RANCHO NICASIO American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab cakes

to garlic-rosemary lamb medallions, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. Be sure to stop in for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday. 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com s $$$ s ∞ C LD BR º SAND DOLLAR American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant was floated to Stinson that same year. Enjoy live music along with barbecued local oysters and New England clam chowder. The sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com s $$ s ∞ LD STATION HOUSE CAFE American Fresh local homegrown foods are showcased for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop in on weekends (5 p.m. on

Sundays) for live music and wine, beer and cocktails (Point Reyes Station). 11180 Highway 1, 415.663.1515, stationhousecafe.com s $$ s ∞ C BLD BR º

SAN FRANCISCO /EAST BAY AQ RESTAURANT & BAR California AQ takes seasonal to a new level, not only adapting the menu but also transforming the decor of the entire venue to match the weather outside. 1085 Mission St, 415.341.9000, aq-sf.com s $$$ ∞ D BENU Asian/French Plan on a formal and sophisticated evening. The compositions on the tasting menu provide a full experience of this restaurant’s unique Asian fusion cuisine. 22 Hawthorne St, 415.685.4860, benusf.com b $$$ C D

BOULI BAR American/ Mediterranean Head to Boulettes Larder’s bar and dining room for the savory flavors of spicy lamb, feta and mint or the bittersweetness of salad topped with barberries, bulgur and pomegranate, all in a setting with handsome wood tables and an open kitchen. The dining room can be reserved for small private parties of up to 24 on request. The views of the Bay Bridge punctuate an unmistakably San Francisco setting. 1 Ferry Building, 415.399.1155, bouletteslarder.com s $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR CLIFF HOUSE California Great food, beautiful view and lots of history — what else could you want? An awardwinning wine list? They have that too. Not only does Cliff ouse boast a popular Sunday champagne brunch, it also focuses on local, organic, sustainable

NAMU GAJI Asian/ California A clean and natural design in a streamlined setting, where housemade shiitake mushroom dumplings and succulent grilled beef tongue are among the many options to discover. 499 Dolores St, 415.431.6268, namusf.com s $$ s LD BR º NOPA California The easy California menu shows off oasted chicken and pork chops, with a bouquet of appetizers to set the mood. Although this S.F. destination is busy

almost every night (a good sign), the wait at the legendary bar is half the fun. 560 Divisadero St, 415.864.8643, nopasf.com s D BR PERRY’S American Perry’s, for over 45 years an institution on Union Street in San Francisco, is known for its classic American food, its warm personable service and its bustling bar. Signature dishes include traditional Cobb salad, prime steaks and, of course, the renowned hamburger. Perry’s also serves a weekend brunch. Hotel Griffon, 155 Steuart St, 415.495.6500, perryssf.com s $$ s ∞ C D º PIKANHAS BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE Steakhouse This all-you-can-eat steakhouse located in Point Richmond offers different cuts of beef, pork, lamb and chicken that are slowly cooked with special grills to preserve all the natural juices and flavors. 25 W. Richmond Ave, Richmond 510.237.7585, pikanhassteak house.com b $$ s LD

KEY TO SYMBOLS s b $ $$ $$$ s ∞ C BLD BR º

Full bar Wine and beer Inexpensive ($10 or less per entree) Moderate (up to $20) Expensive ($20 and over) Kid-friendly Outdoor seating Private party room Seating: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch Happy hour

For even more local restaurant listings, vistit us online at marinmagazine.com

DEBRA TARRANT

Beignet at Salito’s, Sausalito

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On the Scene

S N A P S H OT S F R O M S P EC I A L E V E N T S I N M A R I N A N D S A N F R A N C I S CO

E D I T E D B Y DA N I E L J E W E T T

Andrea Schultz, Reide Baxter and Amy Breeding

Mike Stone, Radha Stern and Gary Maxworthy

Robert Herbst and Sally Shekou

• MARIN GENERAL HOSPITAL FOUNDATION More than $700,000 was raised for the Braden Diabetes Center and nearly 600 people enjoyed dinner and dancing at the May 14 event held in Corte Madera.

KEN FRIEDMAN (BREAD AND ROSES); KATHLEEN HARRISON (MCIL)

• MARIN CENTER FOR INDEPENDENT LIVING Patrick Coll of San Anselmo’s Marinitas restaurant hosted a Cinco de Mayo party benefiting the organization.

Michael Pritchard, Dave Perron, Jason Rezaian and Barry Zito

• BREAD AND ROSES More than 150 people attended the May 26 benefit at Terrapin Crossroads featuring Michael Pritchard, Dave Perron, Jason Rezaian and Barry Zito.

Rosie Feeney and Megan Feeney

TO SEE MORE EVENT PHOTOS VISIT MARINMAGAZINE.COM/HOTTICKET M A R I N A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 123

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From our treasure trove, to your collection…

Marin’s Original Reclaimed Wood Company Visit our San Rafael Showroom Large selection of reclaimed and sustainable hardwood flooring www.blacksfarmwood.com 415.454.8312 1595 Francisco Blvd., East - San Rafael

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Mark Bowles, Formation, 2016; photo: courtesy the artist

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THE CAKEBREAD RANCH. 300 ACRES OF ULTIMATE LUXURY, INCLUDING A WAGYU CATTLE RANGE, ORGANIC GARDEN, PRIVATE RESTAURANT, AND 4.5 MILES OF PRIVATE, ON-PROPERTY BLUE RIBBON RIVER. LOCATED NEAR JACKSON HOLE. $40,000,000. 435-640-7441.

184 WHITE PINE CANYON. THE MOST ARCHITECTURALLY FORWARDTHINKING MOUNTAIN ESTATE IN PARK CITY. MODERN, SKI-IN/SKI-OUT, AND TRULY UNIQUE. LOCATED INSIDE THE COUNTRY’S LARGEST SKI RESORT. $14,900,000. 435-640-7441

VILLA DEI TRAMONTI. LAGUNA BEACH’S PREMIER OCEANFRONT ESTATE. LOCATED WITHIN THE PRIVATE IRVINE COVE COMMUNITY, OPENING ONTO THE PRISTINE BEACH $51,000,000. 949-701-5554.

WE ARE WHERE OUR CLIENTS ARE. I N T H E B E S T L O C AT I O N S . ENGEL & VÖLKERS SAUCALITO 415 - 8 72 -7 72 9 | S A N F R A N C I S C O @ E V U S A .C O M

SAN FRANCISCO SAUCALITO PARK CITY LAKE TAHOE TRUCKEE NEWPORT BEACH BEVERLY HILLS LA SOUTH BAY LOS ANGELES MONTECITO SAN DIEGO SANTA BARBARA SANTA MONICA SHERMAN OAKS SOLANA BEACH WESTLAKE VILLAGE WORLDWIDE ©2016 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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Marin Home FRO M TO U R S A N D M A K EOV E R S TO D ECO R AT IV E D E TA I L S A N D R E A LTO R I N S I G H T S

GOING CENTRAL A 19th-century Mill Valley cottage is right downtown. BY LAURA HILGERS • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

A cluster of West Elm outdoor chairs is the perfect place to lounge in the home’s bucolic yard.

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Marin Home / BACKSTORY

HEN IN VESTOR/entre-

preneur Tina Sharkey was growing up in New York City, she loved the independence of an urban adolescence, taking the subway or walking to restaurants on her own. As her own two boys became teenagers, she wanted to give them the same. But Sharkey, a single mom, lived on the waterfront in Mill Valley, with kayaks and seals. “It was beautiful,” says Sharkey, “but I wanted to get back to a village and community.” So a year-and-a-half ago, Sharkey started putting out feelers among her Mill Valley friends. “Everyone was looking for her,” says Sharkey’s realtor, Marilyn Rich (along with Tracy McCulloch). “She has a wide network of friends and told everyone, ‘I want to be downtown.’ ” Just as Sharkey was about to buy a large condo in downtown Mill Valley, her best friend, Lily Kanter (co-founder of Serena and

Lily), sent her a text, saying that the 1890s cottage across the street from her house was for sale. Sharkey visited and knew immediately she’d found her home. It had not only plenty of room for the boys — including a “man cave” upstairs — but also plenty of wall space for Sharkey’s extensive art collection, which includes pieces by Marin native Zio Ziegler, Laurie Simmons (writer/director Lena Dunham’s mom) and Josh Gosfield. The house itself is something of an artwork. Built on a bucolic lot with soaring redwoods, it’s retained nearly all of its original charm, with oak floors, crown molding and detailed window framing. A few years ago, the previous owners hired Mill Valley–based Richardson Architects to create a very organic addition, including a family room and master bedroom. Now the airy house, with a stunning kitchen/great room, straddles that pleasing tension between old and new, a juxtaposition

echoed by Sharkey’s own approach to design. With the help of Cleaveland and Kennedy Interior Design, Sharkey has created an eclectic style, pairing unlikely items from different decades, such as a long wooden table with white modular chairs and Donald Baechler art (the dining room) or contemporary Serena and Lily bedding with a sculptural white chandelier and an 1840s federal sofa (her bedroom). On the wooden porch out front, Sharkey, who loves to entertain, has placed a Swedish folk art table, surrounded by Serena and Lily chairs. She even installed a professional-grade outdoor heater above the table so she and her boys can dine outside on chilly Mill Valley nights. But often, they’re not there, since their new home is right downtown, which is exactly what the former city girl wanted. “My sons can walk everywhere, and I can walk to the store or into town with the dog,” says Sharkey. “I’m so happy.” m

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THE DETAILS WHAT SHE BOUGHT A four-bedroom renovated cottage WHERE SHE BOUGHT Mill Valley’s Sycamore Park LISTING AGENT Candace Nordstrom, Coldwell Banker SELLING AGENTS Marilyn Rich and Tracy McCulloch, Pacific Union/ Christie’s International Real Estate THE STATS Price per square foot for homes in the neighborhood: $1,150

Opposite page: The living room has lots of wall space for art. This page, clockwise from top left: The porch swing; the updated kitchen with modern chandelier; Sharkey and her sons; the kitchen’s coffee nook; the master bedroom; Sharkey’s books and art.

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Marin Home / STYLE

Poufs

Space-saving seating for any room. BY PJ BREMIER

EED A CON VENIENT footrest, a tuckaway seat, a place to set a tray or simply a pop of color? Consider the versatile, popular, portable pouf. These useful items can be stacked, grouped, slid under tables or, poof, just like that, stored in a closet until needed. Not as structured as an ottoman nor as compact as a footrest, the pouf rests somewhere in between the two and comes in a variety of versions, from fun to fancy, indoor to outdoor, child to adult size.

1 Childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Faux Leather Pouf in various colors, $79, Land of Nod (Palo Alto), 650.681.1662, landofnod.com 2 The Hill-Side Grey-Navy Stripe Pouf for CB2, $149, CB2 (San Francisco), 415.834.9370, cb2.com 3 Big Joe Stop faux fur pouf, $198, Sunrise Home (San Rafael), 415.456.3939, sunrisehome. com 4 Outdoor Pouf in Red Trellis by Threshold, $39.99, Target (San Rafael or Novato), 415.299.6112 or 415.892.3313, target.com 5 Lind Cowhide Square Cocktail Ottomans with removable legs and casters, $849 each, Room & Board (San Francisco), 415.252.9280, roomandboard.com

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LIFE BEGINS AT HOME The Costa Group delivers home listing and sales experience with hands-on availability, to elevate your Real Estate sale or purchase and bring you home.

YOUR HOME AWAITS Profit from The Costa Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 30+ years combined experience as a top-producing Real Estate team ranked in the Top 1% of San Francisco area Realtors. From Mission Bay to Richardson Bay, experience our extraordinary service; involvement and concern for you and your lifestyle; and commitment to bringing you the best value for your home.

Franck Costa & Sara Werner Costa SAN FRANCISCO & MARIN REAL ESTATE

415.730.2604 www.thecostagroup.com info@thecostagroup.com BRE# 01853603 | BRE# 01772972

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AT TENTION TO DE TAIL When every single one matters in selling your home.

The Bowman Group

Building Relationships

TheBowmanGroupMarin.com

415.717.8950 BRE# 1933147

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FORWARD THINKING RE AL ESTATE

Selling the Best of Marin

Corte Madera Ross Valley San Francisco Wine Country Palm Springs

vanguardproperties.com BRE # 01392561

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ExquisitE Luxury EstatE with stunning ViEws Elegance, luxury, sophistication; this exquisite 7 bedroom 8.5 bath Tiburon Estate has it all including access to a rare private sandy beach. The 6 bedroom main residence features stunning design, walls of windows, a gourmet kitchen, media room and spacious family room that opens to the inifinity edge pool and spa. Guest house. Sauna. Gorgeous grounds with gated entry, meandering pathways, stone walls, putting green and bocce ball court. See the Bay. Hear the waves. Enjoy swimming, boating and water sports from the beach. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss this rare opportunity for Paradise.

Offered at

KATHLEEN STRANTON (415) 497-3410 3636ParadiseDrive.com

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$7,250,000

WAYNE STRANTON (415) 261-8413

WayneBradleyStranton.com

7/8/16 1:51 PM

Stunning Bay Views from Tiburon Breathtaking views of the San Francisco skyline, Corinthian Yacht Harbor, downtown Tiburon and San Francisco Yacht Harbor. Recently transformed, this rare and unique home was originally Zone R-2, a legal non-conforming duplex. This single family home, 4 bedrooms, 3 baths with additional attic space is on Mar West, just steps from downtown Tiburon.

Offered At $2,400,000

Lyndasue Johnson (415) 515-7010

Natural Setting in Wild Horse Valley Lovingly cared for 5BR/2.5BA home with a two car garage, waiting for your personal touch. Enjoy the family room, formal dining room, living room and updated kitchen. Relax on the deck and enclosed outside spa! HOA includes tennis courts, club house, pool and kiddie pool. Wild Horse Valley is a beloved neighborhood close to town but away from it all in a park like setting.

Offered At $1,199,000

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Toni Shroyer (415) 640-2754

Stunning City and Serene Hillside Views Spacious multilevel townhouse in a convenient location, provides easy access to Tiburon shops, restaurants, ferry, theater & schools. A spacious living room with a fireplace opens to a quiet deck with panoramic views. The entry level features a large dining room and updated kitchen with granite counters, center island and breakfast bar. The master suite opens to a private deck with sauna. 3BR/2.5BA.

Offered At $1,699,000

C.Jay Key (415) 699-5747

Large Home in Prime Location Spacious 4BR/3.5BA split level home with a bonus room/office/ in-law area. Located on a quiet street, this approximately 2635 sq.ft. home offers a large living room with fireplace, open kitchen, family room that leads to the level yard area and four bedrooms all on the upper level including the large master suite with walk in closet and views. Downstairs features a bonus room, bathroom and kitchenette.

Offered At $899,000

Jennifer Bowes (415) 717-1632

7/8/16 1:51 PM

THINK ATTENTIVE & ASTUTE Think Zephyr.

Highly competitive and nuanced, the Bay Area real estate market can be both challenging and rewarding. Zephyr turns local clients into successful home sellers, buyers and investors.

350 Bon Air Center #100 Greenbrae, CA 94904 • 415.496.2600 • ZephyrRE.com

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ZEPHYR REAL ESTATE ALL OVER MARIN

61 Broadmoor Ct., Novato Offered for $1,895,000 04 |

BED

4.5

| BATH

KATHERINE FONG 415.720.1365

541 Northern Ave., Mill Valley

Offered at $1,695,000 04 | BED 04 | BATH CHRIS DENIKE 415.250.8052

MARK MACHADO 415.298.7027 STEPHEN PRINGLE 415.720.7832

BED

SOLD for $2,210,000 04 |

BED

| BATH

JENN PFEIFFER 415.302.3198

75 Florence Ave., San Anselmo SOLD for $2,420,000 05 |

82 Berens Dr., Kentfield

| BATH

165 Wild Horse Valley Dr., Novato

861 Greenberry Lane, San Rafael

SPIRO MARIN 415.385.4258

DAVID Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;BRIEN 415.342.1968

Represented Buyer SOLD for $1,729,000

SOLD for $1,320,000 04 |

BED

| BATH

Member of

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COLDWELL BANKER OFFERS YOUR HOME THE POWER OF INTERNATIONAL EXPOSURE Backed by the strength of Coldwell Banker, the Previews® program offers our clients strong global coverage, more office locations and more Independent Sales Associates than any other company specializing in luxury real estate today. These advantages ultimately mean our listings reach the greatest possible number of qualified affluent buyers, resulting in a more expedient sale. Coldwell Banker

SALES VOLUME*

$225.28 billion

Christie’s Int’l

$118 billion

Sotheby’s Int’l

3,000 Coldwell Banker

1,200 Christie’s International

84,793 Coldwell Banker

835 Sotheby’s International

32,000 Christie’s International

$95.6 billion

18,000 Sotheby’s International

47 Coldwell Banker

45 Christie’s International

63 Sotheby’s International

3,000

84,000

OFFICES WORLDWIDE

INDEPENDENT SALES ASSOCIATES WORLDWIDE

COUNTRIES & TERRITORIES

COLDWELL BANKER (NRT) GLOBAL PARTNERS: The Corcoran Group, with 25 offices in New York, The Hamptons and South Florida.

Hamptons International, with over 85 offices in and South of London.

United States

Dominican Republic

Puerto Rico

Andorra

Egypt

Romania

Argentina

France

Spain

Aruba

Guatemala

St. Kitts/Nevis St. Martin

Australia

India

Bahamas

Indonesia

Turkey

Belize

Ireland

Turks & Caicos

Bermuda

Italy

United Arab

Brazil

Jamaica

Emirates

Canada

Japan

Uruguay

Cayman Islands**

Kenya

Venezuela Virgin Islands

China

Malta

Colombia

Mexico

(British)***

Costa Rica

Monaco

Virgin Islands

Czech Republic

Panama

(U.S.)****

©2016 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker® is a registered trademark licensed to Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Each Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage Office is Owned by a Subsidiary of NRT LLC. Real Estate Agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage are Independent Contractor Sales Associates and are not employees of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC, Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage or NRT LLC. CalBRE License #01908304. Data Source: *Data Source RFG and company websites. Sales volume is for time period January 1 - December 31, 2015. **Cayman Islands consists of the islands of Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman.***British Virgin Islands consists of the islands of Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada and Jost Van Dyke, plus an additional 50 smaller cays and private islands.****U.S. Virgin Islands consists of the main islands of St. Thomas, St. John, St. Croix.

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Carol Ann E Case 415.860.3572 ccase@cbnorcal.com carolcaserealestate.com CalBRE #00708767

Another Day In Paradise

301 E STRAWBERRY DRIVE MILL VALLEY PRICE UPON REQUEST

Spectacular, sweeping views of San Francisco/Tiburon/Belvedere/ Sausalito. Magnificent gated property is approx.1.69 acres located on coveted Richardson Bay deep water channel. Boat house, dock, launching ramp. This home boasts a flexible floor plan with 4-5 bedrooms/3.5 baths. Family room; workshop/artist studio; sunroom/ yoga room. Distinguished schools.

©2016 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Coldwell Banker®, Previews® and Previews International® are registered trademarks licensed to Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Owned by a Subsidiary of NRT LLC. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC, Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage or NRT LLC. CalBRE License #01908304.

Andy Gellepis

415.380.4617 AGellepis@cbnorcal.com CalBRE #00858743

A Rare Home of Distinction

31 GIRARD AVENUE SAUSALITO $3,750,000

Family-owned for 50+ years. A Tudor Style 5 bedroom home featuring: a gorgeous gardening masterpiece, new irrigation system throughout, “Gardener’s Guild” of California Trees, new fencing, private yard, stunning grand entry walkway, and high curb appeal exceeded by the property itself.

LOVE WHERE YOU LIVE

ColdwellBankerHomes.com

e T

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I needed a place to savor the moment.

•

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3 3 S A N D Y C R E E K WAY | N O VATO, CA

Price Upon Request

www.33SandyCreek.com Elegant and sophisticated yet relaxed and inviting. Ideal floor plan features the Master Suite on the main level. Perfectly situated on a cul-de-sac street, this gorgeous home backs to acres of rolling hills for privacy & serenity.

• Over 3,600 sq ft

• Jacuzzi Tub

• Formal Living & Dining Room

• Maple Floors

• Plantation Shutters

• Master Suite

• 2 Family Rooms

• Granite Kitchen

• Junior Suite

Cj SPIELMAN

415.378.7955 cjmarinhomes@gmail.com

Lic# 01399864

300 DRAKES LANDING RD., SUITE 120 / 415.805.2900 GREENBRAE, CA 94904 PARAGON-RE.COM

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23 PALMER DRIVE

| N O VAT O 9 4 9 4 9

ELEGANT AND GRACIOUS POINT MARIN HOME

Cj Spielman 415.378.7955

cjmarinhomes@gmail.com www.cjmarinhomes.com Lic# 01399864

150 TIOGA LANE

www.23Palmer.com | Offered at $ 1,245,000

| GREENBRAE 94904

RESORT LIFESTYLE WITH GORGEOUS VIEWS

Shenna Moe 415.846.9538

moe@agentmoe.com agentmoe.com Lic# 01854690

150TiogaLane.com | Offered at $1,950,000

144 A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 M A R I N

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Dream It, See It, Live It!

$6,499,000

Contemporary lines perfectly frame the views of SF, the Belvedere lagoon, three bays, Mt. Tam & the GGB. With all the finest finishes, features & appliances, this home reflects its caliber in the details.

The Narodny Team

415.265.7488 or 415.847.0309

With over 800 sq. ft. of gorgeous decking, the indoor/outdoor lifestyle perfectly captures the benefits of living in one of the most amazing places in the world. 4 beds/3.5 baths, approx. 4,231 sq. ft.

team@marinrealestate.net MarinRealEstate.net

all we do are mortgages.

(and we’re really good at what we do.)

Jill Friedlander NMLS# 282311 415-506-0200

Marian Jung

NMLS# 304076 415-602-3689

Judy Stern

R. Scott Webster

Vincent Ferrer

Jorge Almaguer

NMLS# 299111 415-518-2205

Regional Manager NMLS# 238323 415-524-0709

We know there’s more to serving your needs than securing the best interest rate — that’s why we listen carefully and earn your business every step of the way. Curt Humphrey

NMLS# 1017849 415-385-9044

Cassie Penn

NMLS# 236751 415-328-0068

NMLS# 332375 415-524-0780

NMLS# 340379 415-524-0797

Call or visit us today! 415-755-4466 www.allwestern.com NMLS# 985336

851 IRWIN AVENUE #100, SAN RAFAEL, CA 94901

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Alain Pinel Realtors®

WE’RE LOCAL SAN FRA N C I S C O

$8,700,000

3249 Jackson Street | 6bd/4.5ba John Adlam | 415.515.4779 3249Jackson.com

C ORTE MA D E RA

$1,788,000

T IB U RO N

$4,150,000

2457 Mar East Street | 6bd/4.5ba H. Carter/C. DeRouen | 415.730.9445 2457MarEast.com

GREENBRAE

$1,750,000

M IL L VAL L EY

$3,495,000

120 Hillside Avenue | 4bd/3.5ba Margritha Fliegauf | 415.999.7310 120HillsideMillValley.com

SAN RAFAEL $1,695,000

1413 Casa Buena Drive | 4bd/3ba Barbara Brown | 415.747.5076 1413CasaBuenaDr.com

57 Paseo Way | 4bd/2.5ba The Jampolskys | 415.308.5126 apr.com/cjampolsky

80 Terrace Avenue | 3+bd/3ba Theresa Spindler | 415.717.9389 80TerraceAve.com

MILL VALLEY $1,195,000

SAN ANSELMO PRICE UPON REQUEST

SAN GERONIMO PRICE UPON REQUEST

281 Morningsun Avenue | 3bd/2ba Dennis Naranche | 415.496.2927 281MorningsunAve.com

30 Morningside Drive | 3bd/2ba Donna Goldman | 415.509.2427 LifestyleMarin.com

48 W Nicasio Road | 5bd/4.5ba Donna Goldman | 415.509.2427 LifestyleMarin.com

APR.COM

O 6

Over 30 Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 6 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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Alain Pinel Realtors®

WE’RE GLOBAL SAN C L E ME N T E , C A , U SA

LO N DO N , U N IT E D K IN G DO M

N A PL ES , F L , USA $ 8 , 9 8 0 , 0 0 0

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: GHTB8 $17,900,000

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: GBJU $17,552,878

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: LCVW $8,980,000

BRU S S E L S , BE L G I U M

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND

K UAL A L UM PUR , M AL AYSI A

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: PQSY $5,071,565

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: NHEC $4,290,617

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: LVDY $3,600,000

MORNINGSIDE, SOUTH AFRICA

P ROV IDE N C IA LE S , T U R K S & C A IC O S

MYKONOS, GREECE

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: WMUJ $3,056,047

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: KAYY $2,980,000

LuxuryPortfolio.com | WEB ID: FEXY $2,444,172

APR.COM

Over 30 Offices Serving The Bay Area Including 6 Offices in Marin County 415.755.1111

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O L S

77 OLEMA ROAD, BOLINAS | OFFERED AT $9,500,000 | SEADRAGONESTATE.COM

O L S

The Sea Dragon Estate is comprised of 18 hidden acres situated perfectly above the dramatic beauty of west Marinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastline. The estateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s architecture and design reflects and embraces the natural beauty that surrounds it. The breathtaking main house is the core of the estate where massive stone slabs, hand tooled wood beams, stylistically weathered-patina steel and burnt concrete define its aesthetic. An array of additional buildings and spaces allow for private and separate guest quarters, art studio, equestrian facilities and plenty of outside entertaining venues. With its sizable acreage, desirable location, impressive main house and additional buildings, the Sea Dragon Estate can easily serve as a family compound or gathering place for extended family and friends.

O D

Neal Ward 415.269.9933 or Glen Williams 415.465.442

MARIN

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SAN FRANCISCO

PENINSULA

EAST BAY

7/13/16 1:24 PM

260 DEL CASA DRIVE

285 HILLSIDE AVE

Offered at $3,600,000 Lotte Moore 415.412.7471 or Sarah Kowalczyk 415.464.7484

Offered at $3,195,000 Sharon Faccinto 415.272.3799

2517 MAR EAST STREET

52 CRESCENTE AVE

31 MAGDALENA COURT

Offered at $2,995,000 Lotte Moore 415.412.7471 or Sarah Kowalczyk 415.464.7484

Offered at $1,995,000 Marla Moresi-Valdes 415.971.2535

Offered at $1,950,000 Ann Murphy 415.317.6731

214 RICHARDSON STREET

PRIVATE LISTING

10 MAIN DOCK

Offered at $1,695,000 Darwin Tejada 415.351.4632

Offered at $935,000 Lotte Moore 415.412.7471 or Sarah Kowalczyk 415.464.7484

Offered at $749,000 Steve Sekhon 415.480.4562

WINE COUNTRY

GLOBAL

25500 STATE ROUTE 1 HIGHWAY Offered at $3,000,000 Neal Ward 415.269.9933 or Glen Williams 415.465.4423

MCGUIRE.COM INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATE

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7/13/16 1:24 PM

Now Open in San Rafael!

902 Irwin Street at 3rd, San Rafael, CA 94901 | 415.456.1200 | deckerbullocksir.com

Our Experts are Here to Serve You

Fred Angeli, VP Sales 415.528.5088

B.G. Bates 415.706.1026

Joe Bondanza 415.246.5549

Missy Crowe 415.264.7823

Kathi Elliott 415.235.4024

Justine Fairey 415.264.6643

Alva Falla 415.518.1930

Karla Farrell 415.828.1584

Jennifer Falla Firkins 415.602.5768

Vince Gramalia 415.246.5924

Lynn Gray 415.235.3532

Janice Guehring 415.717.9636

s Kathleen Hilken 415.606.9368

Abby Kagan 415.450.0060

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Jason Lewis 415.971.6868

Christina McNair 415.613.5563

Margo E. Schein 415.271.5325

Kathy Schlegel 415.699.7406

7/7/16 12:02 4:46 PM 7/11/16 PM

Ramzi-Mar

/16 4:46 PM

BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

Tiburon

$10,500,000

4 Santa Ana Court

Breathtaking views and classic elegance define this

Golden Gate Bridge to downtown San Francisco to

world class property in the hills of Tiburon. Custom

Mt. Tamalpais. Residence includes a grand foyer,

built in 2001, the ornate residence offers luxury living,

gourmet chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen, two master suites, outdoor

spectacular vistas and grand outdoor entertaining

kitchen, swimming pool, pool house, six bedrooms, six and

spaces. Views abound from every room, from the

one-half baths, three-car garage.

Sherry Ramzi |

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415.902.7344

s.ramzi@deckerbullocksir.com

4SantaAnaCt.com

MarinExclusiveHomes.com

7/7/16 12:02 3:58 PM 7/11/16 PM

ACTIVE

3+ BEDS

BATHS

Seadrift Oceanfront

$5,000,000

162SeadriftRoad.com

SOLD

3+ BEDS

BATHS

Listed at $5,950,000

10 Sonoma Patio

Stinson Beach

The Sherfey Group 3605 Shoreline Highway, Stinson Beach, California Cell | 415.302.9408 Office | 415.868.9200 SherfeyGroup@deckerbullocksir.com

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ACTIVE

BEDS

ACTIVE

121 Seadrift Road

$2,900,000

121Seadrift.com

BATHS

BEDS

45 Laurel Avenue

$1,895,000

45LaurelAvenue.com

BATHS

ACTIVE

CONTINGENT

BEDS

355 Belvedere Avenue

$1,575,000

355Belvedere.com

BATHS

COMING SOON!

$1,150,000 Undeveloped Lots

281, 283, 285 Seadrift Road Stinson Beach

Recent Sales 路 25 Belvedere Avenue, Stinson Beach List Price $1,279,000 路 63 Dipsea Road, Stinson Beach Off Market Sale (represented buyer) 路 150 Lincoln Avenue, Stinson Beach Off Market Sale (represented buyer and seller)

BEDS

BATHS

Price Upon Request

25 Calle del Sierra Stinson Beach

路 161 Seadrift Road, Stinson Beach Off Market Sale (represented buyer)

The Sherfey Group 3605 Shoreline Highway, Stinson Beach, California Cell | 415.302.9408 Office | 415.868.9200 SherfeyGroup@deckerbullocksir.com

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SOLD

Cool Factor of 10 $2,495,000

Nicasio

Country Escape Sold at Full Price

Rancho Santa Margarita

Inverness

Bay View Beauty $1,500,000

85HighlandWay.com

5675LucasValley.com

Private Oasis Next to Park $1,625,000

71Dover.com

Nicasio

Inverness

Coming Soon: · Dream Farm Estate in Inverness · Stunning Coastal Estate in Bolinas

B.G. Bates

More West Marin sales than any other agent over the last 20 years!

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415.706.1026

bg.bates@sothebysrealty.com bgbates.com

7/7/16 12:03 4:09 PM 7/11/16 PM

Kouros-Ma

SOLD

REPRESENTED BUYER

$12,500,000

Tiburon SOLD

/16 4:09 PM

REPRESENTED SELLER

Tiburon

$9,950,000

Kouros Tavakoli 415.518.2439

k.tavakoli@ deckerbullocksir.com ExclusiveMarinHomes.com

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BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

$1,595,000

Novato

117 Laurelwood Drive

Just Listed â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Located in the highly desired Pointe Marin neighborhood in southern Novato. This well-appointed 3862Âą sf. luxury home features 5 bedrooms and 4.5 baths. The open floor plan is designed around an intimate courtyard. The fabulous kitchen has all the whistles and bells, and adjoins the large family room. The impressive master suite opens to a beautifully landscaped rear yard and patio. A beautiful oak tree provides just the right amount of shade on warm summer days, the perfect setting.

2 s C f e p B C h le in w

117Laurelwood.com

Rick Trono 415.515.1117

rick.trono@sothebysrealty.com LivingMarin.com

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Henthorne-

BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

$2,150,000

Mill Valley

TheArtofLivingMarin.com

The Art of Living—Zen-Like Retreat in Mill Valley 239½ Cleveland Avenue, Mill Valley. A true work of art, this spectacular Mill Valley home was conceived by architect William Cullen with the connoisseur of life in mind. The environmentallyfriendly home evokes a harmonious zen quality throughout with each level opening out to contemplative outdoor rooms boasting panoramic views of the Richardson Bay, San Francisco, and the Bay Bridge. Completed in 2012 and perfect for entertaining, this stunning home offers artistry, views and comfort on every level. The top level features a dramatic entry complete with a koi pond, an indoor/outdoor living area and a spacious guest/au pair suite with a private entrance.

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The main level features an open concept floor plan including a modern kitchen with stainless appliances opening onto a family room and outdoor entertaining/dining patio. The lower level offers 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms including a retreat-like master suite with an indoor/outdoor shower and a private viewing deck with hot tub. This home also has a large basement/bonus room perfect as a kids playroom, workshop, gym or additional storage and a rooftop garden with viewing patio. A pneumatic vacuum elevator efficiently transports residents and guests to all three main living levels. 239½ Cleveland Avenue is minutes to downtown Mill Valley while enjoying easy access to Hwy 101. TheArtofLivingMarin.com

Thomas Henthorne

415.847.5584

thomas@thomashenthorne.com thomashenthorne.com

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Trying to Keep Up With the Marin Market? Call One of Our Local Experts

Brian Byers

Lindy Emrich

Lisa Garaventa

415.602.7915

415.717.4005

415.518.2772

Margaret Monaco 415.608.2120

brian@brianbyers.com BrianByers.com

Lindy@sir.com LindyEmrich.com

lgaraventa@sothebysrealty.com FineMarinLiving.com

mmteam@ deckerbullocksir.com MMTeamMarin.com

Megan Pomponio

Sherry Ramzi

Margo Schein

415.827.9229

415.902.7344

415.271.5325

415.847.0459

megan@ sothebysrealty.com MeganSellsMarin.com

s.ramzi@ deckerbullocksir.com MarinExclusiveHomes.com

meschein@ comcast.net WebSite.com

r.weigle @ deckerbullocksir.com RosalieWeigleHomes.com

Lei Ann Werner

Julie Widergren

Alisa Knobbe Wynd

Sylvie Zolezzi

415.710.0117

415.827.8727

415.298.4037

415.505.4789

leiann@sothebysrealty.com WebSite.com

j.widergren@deckerbullocksir.com MarinRealEstateNow.com

a.wynd@deckerbullocksir.com AlisaWynd.com

Sylvie@YourPieceofMarin.com YourPieceofMarin.com

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Rosalie Weigle

7/11/16 3:49 PM

JUST LISTED

BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

JUST

$10,500,000 TIBURON

Sherry Ramzi | 415.902.7344

4SantaAnaCt.com s.ramzi@deckerbullocksir.com | MarinExclusiveHomes.com

BEDS

$2,595,000 KENTFIELD

BATHS

Brian Byers | 415.602.7915 brian@brianbyers.com | BrianByers.com

641Goodhill.com

JUST LISTED

S JUS

THREE PARCELS THREE HOMES

$2,189,000 S A N R A FA E L

Lindy Emrich | 415.717.4005

260LindenLane.com

BEDS

BATHS

$1,549,000

1/2 BA

N OVAT O

Lisa Garaventa | 415.518.2772

125LaurelwoodDrive.com

lgaraventa@sothebysrealty.com | FineMarinLiving.com

Lindy@sir.com | LindyEmrich.com SOLD OVER ASKING!

JUST SOLD

REPR B

REPRESENTED SELLER

$1,325,000 L ARKSPUR

Margaret Monaco | 415.608.2120 mmteam@deckerbullocksir.com | MMTeamMarin.com

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REPRESENTED BUYER

$1,320,000 N OVAT O

Megan Pomponio | 415.827.9229 megan@sothebysrealty.com | MeganSellsMarin.com

7/7/16 12:05 4:48 PM 7/11/16 PM

Mill Valley

$4,450,000

Sausalito

$5,495,000

Sausalito

$2,750,000

KentďŹ eld

$4,995,000

Tiburon

$2,750,000

KentďŹ eld

$4,850,000

Tiburon

$4,585,000

Modern-day Heritage | 5 BD | 4.5 BA

Chic Contemporary | 3 BD | 3.5 BA

Point Tiburon Pied-a-terre | 2 BD | 2 BA

The Entertainer | 4 BD | 4.5 BA

Mountain-side Retreat | 4 BD | 3.5 BA

Hillside Grandeur | 4 BD | 4.5 BA

Bill Bullock

Lydia Sarkissian

GLOBALESTATES .COM

Above and Beyond | 4 BD | 3.5 BA

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Tiburon

Belvedere

$7,995,000

Belvedere

$6,995,000

Timeless Paradise | 4 BD | 4.5 BA

French Allure | 5 BD | 5 BA

Contemporary Art Collector | 4 BD | 5.5 BA

$12,900,000

Tiburon

$39,000,000

St. Helena

$25,000,000

Nicasio

$15,000,000

The Dreamer on San Francisco Bay | 14.5Â± Acres

Napa Valley Retreat | 7 BD | 9 Full & 3 Half BA

Equestrian Estate | 62Â± Acres | 3 Barns | 2 Arenas

Bill Bullock

Lydia Sarkissian

Tiburon

Japanese Lifestyle | 5 BD | 7 BA

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$6,500,000

GLOBALESTATES .COM

10:17 PM AM 7/11/16 12:06

BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

$4,995,000

Tiburon

16OldLandingRoad.com

Gated Waterfront Compound in Tiburon. Vintage waterfront living meets Hamptons beach house at this sprawling family compound in Tiburon. Located within a sheltered cove with dock and boat lift, beach and waterfront swimming pool, this recently renovated,

gated estate oﬀers privacy and resort-like living rarely found in the Bay Area. The verdant hillside grounds include a main residence,

guest house, pool house, motor court, and both attached and detached garages able to house seven vehicles. The main residence features open plan living and dining areas with vaulted, exposed beam ceilings, four ﬁreplaces, large picture windows and French

doors overlooking the water. Two bedrooms, two full baths, and a master in its own private wing accessible by stair and elevator. Separate, one-bedroom, two-bath guest house with ﬁreplace and kitchenette, detached pool house, and bocce ball court further this compound’s time-honored charm.

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or.

Bill Bullock

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GLOBALESTATES.COM

Lydia Sarkissian

7/11/16 12:06 9:08 AM 7/11/16 PM

Modern Hillside Retreat. What if the view never ceased? If you lived on the edge of all the beauty and wonder you have aspired to? This contemporary residence high in the Tiburon hills embodies that possibility. Nestled in a dramatic slope with panoramic, sweeping views overlooking Belvedere Lagoon, Richardson Bay, and spanning from Mount Tamalpais to Oakland, this modern, approximately 4,900 square foot home is one of a kind. Intelligently designed for both entertaining and privacy, the residence comprises two levels with four bedrooms all on the view side, three full and two half-baths, and three fireplaces. The most dramatic, architecturally significant highlight is the copper roof, which undulates in reference to the wind swept, grassy hilltops of Tiburonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic profile. This modern abode invites you to settle in and savor the eternal view.

BEDS

BATHS

1/2 BA

$6,495,000

Tiburon

117Sugarloaf.com

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Bill Bullock 415.384.4000

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GLOBALESTATES.COM

Lydia Sarkissian 415.517.7720

10:11 PM AM 7/11/16 12:06

17 Ce har spe sch

65 Ken in m out

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17 West Shore Road, Belvedere JUST LISTED

17 West Shore Road, Belvedere - Offered at $3,495,000. Enjoy living the resort life-style every-day! Unique and lovely MidCentury Modern home situated on the Richardson Bay with gorgeous views, boat dock, beautiful architecture, fireplace, hardwood floors, indoor/outdoor living, spacious rooms, large enclosed front yard and garden area. Southwest facing with spectacular Mt. Tamalpais & water views, two car garage, front and back landscaped yards. Easy access to town, ferries and schools. The land is included in the sale! www.17WestShore.com

SOLD IN 7 DAYS!

IN ESCROW

65 Rock Road, Kentfield - Offered at $5,895,000. Gated & private Kent Woodlands hillside estate. This 5BR/6BA Italian-style villa is set in magnificent gardens with a Southwest facing patio, infinity pool, outdoor kitchen, and conversation fire-pit. www.65RockRoad.com

154 Trinidad Drive, Tiburon - Sold at $2,295,000. Traditional 4 bedrooms and 3 bath home in coveted Paradise Cay all with your very own deep water boat dock and fully fenced in yard, a rare find in the Cay! www.154TrinidadDrive.com

Penny Wright-Mulligan Team 415.601.8191 penny@pacunion.com pennywrightmulligan.com License #01495932

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Looking Back

DATED 1917

Before the T Bridges Many present-day landmarks are on this (almost) 100-year-old aerial map. BY JIM WOOD

attempting to answer a few questions. What you’re looking at is a 1917 view of the Bay Area (it was called “Bay Country” back then) that appears on a 1925 brochure archived at the Anne T. Kent California Room of the Marin County Free Library. Here are the questions: 1 Is Stinson Beach on the map? 2 Are the Standard Oil tanks in Richmond, so visible now, on the map? 3 Are San Quentin Prison, the Mountain Theatre and all of Marin’s 11 incorporated cities on the map? The brochure in which the map appears was promoting the Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway, which between 1896 and 1930 ran from downtown Mill Valley to the top of Mount Tamalpais and then, beginning in 1907, down into the then recently dedicated Muir Woods National Monument; it was known as “The Crookedest Railroad in the World.” The answers: 1 In a way, yes: at the time, Stinson Beach was called

Willow Grove. 2 Yes. 3 Yes, yes and yes (except Novato).

The brochure in which the map appears was promoting the Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway.

COURTESY OF ANNE T. KENT CALIFORNIA ROOM, MARIN COUNTY FREE LIBRARY

A KE A GOOD look at the above rendering before

170 A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 M A R I N

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Radhi Ahern Luxury Property Specialist

Scott Kalmbach Luxury Property Specialist

Contact 415.531.2981 Radhi@ahern-kalmbach.com License #01411471

Contact 415.350.7911 Scott@ahern-kalmbach.com License #01795204

7/8/16 1:45 PM

OSKA 153 Throckmorton Mill Valley, CA 94941 415 381 1144 OSKA 310 Center Street Healdsburg, CA 95448 707 431 7717 Shop online millvalley.oska.com

Beverly Hills / Chicago / Edina / Healdsburg / Mill Valley / New York / Pasadena / Seattle / Calgary / Vancouver / Sydney London / Paris / Munich / Amsterdam / Stockholm

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