November 2012 by Make It Better

Marin Rescue, Survival and Loss Part 2 of 2

The Aftermath of the Farallones Sailing Disaster Winter Beaches A Look Inside the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition goldman Prize Marin Filmmakers Document the Winners

+ brenda chapman Brave Writerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Cinderella Story

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Contents

Novemb er 2012

Features 40 Eight Souls Aboard Part two of the story behind one of yachting’s worst tragedies.

56 The New Environmentalists Sausalito’s Goldman Prize filmmakers travel the world.

ben davidson

48 Through the Looking Glass Marin’s iconic images as you’ve never seen them before.

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Free PeoPle j. crew Kate SPade loFt Madewell the North Face

Pottery barN reStoratioN hardware SPleNdid SuNdaNce toMMy bahaMa true religioN

Explore the very best in retail nestled along a beautifully landscaped walkway, whimsical fountains - and even a firepit! Come enjoy the sophisticated shopping experience that The Village has to offer.

Macyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, NordstroM aNd More thaN 50 specialty stores & restauraNts paradise drive exit off the 101 | 415.924.8588 VillageatcorteMadera.com

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Contents

NOVEMB ER 2012

101

26 In Marin 23 Currents Food bank needs, Marin artists go national, a new building for the Buck and Mayacamas spring water. 30 Q&A The Mill Valley resident behind Brave.

69 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.

34 Conversation Keeping up with a 92-year-old integrative dance pioneer.

78 Dine An insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.

Destinations

Marin Home

63 Go Behind the scenes of the famous Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue.

101 Backstory A Sonoma County transplant finds charm and serenity in small-town Marin.

67 Travel Buzz Visiting Napa Valley in November.

Out & About

COLUMNS

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TIM PORTER (TOP RIGHT); ART BY WILLI SIBER (MIDDLE)

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Designs for every room. Editorial Editorial Director Nikki Wood executive Editor Mimi Towle Managing Editor Daniel Jewett senior writer Jim Wood Editor-At-Large Tim Porter Copy Editor Cynthia Rubin Editorial Assistants

Melissa Gardner White, Sophie Shulman, Calin Van Paris contributing writers

Eve Pell, Jennifer Woodlief Contact editorial@marinmagazine.com

Art Art Director Veronica Sooley Production Manager Alex French

ext 111 | production@marinmagazine.com Contributing Photographers

Mo DeLong, Ben Davidson, Barbara Ries, Nike van der Molen

Administration Controller Maeve Walsh ext 104 | mwalsh@marinmagazine.com Office Manager Sophie Shulman ext 100 | sshulman@marinmagazine.com

Web Web/IT Manager

Peter Thomas ext 120 | pthomas@marinmagazine.com

Proud to be your local, family-owned business with over 30 years expertise. Call us today for a complimentary in-home design consultation.

Ma r i n ( U S P S 02 4 - 8 9 8) i s pu bl i s he d mont h l y by O p en S k y Me d i a , O ne H a r b or D r i ve, Su it e 2 0 8 , S au s a l it o, CA 9 496 5 . Per iod ica ls Post age Pa id at Sausa lito, CA , a nd at add itiona l mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

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Volume 8, Issue 11. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Open Sky Media. All rights reserved. CopyrightÂŠ2012. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Open Sky Media. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $12 per year. phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, email editorial@marinmagazine.com, website marinmagazine.com.

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A RARE OPPORTUNITY FOR RAREFIED LIVING.

Let The Residences at Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas envelop you with the legendary service and unsurpassed amenities of the award-winning hotel group. Live on the Las Vegas Strip. Indulge in an effortless life. Enjoy VIP access through M life Curated Living from MGM Resorts InternationalÂŽ, the developer of the hotel and residences.

Limited-time Ownership incentives 866.950.2489 / MandarinOrientalResidencesLasVegas.com No statement should be relied upon except as expressly set forth in the Purchase and Sale Agreement or the Nevada Public Offering Statement. This is neither an offer to sell, nor a solicitation of offers to buy, any condominium units in those states where such offers or solicitations cannot be made. WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED, OR QUALIFIED THIS OFFERING. This condominium project does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, disability or familial status. Specifications, amenities, pricing, inventory, and owner privilege programs are subject to change without notice. ÂŠ 2012 CityCenter Land, LLC. Unauthorized use or reproduction is strictly prohibited. The Residences at Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas (The Residences) are not developed, sponsored, owned, offered or sold by Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group or any affiliate thereof (MOHG), and MOHG makes no representation, warranty or guaranty of any kind regarding The Residences. The developers and owners of The Residences use the Mandarin Oriental name and trademarks subject to the terms of revocable licenses from MOHG which may expire or be terminated.

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Advertising Publisher Stephanie Ericson ext 108 | sericson@marinmagazine.com Advertising Director Michele Geoffrion Johnson

ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com

senior Account Manager Leah Bronson

ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com Account Manager Dana Horner ext 107 | dhorner@marinmagazine.com

Advertising Art Director Alex French

ext 111 | afrench@marinmagazine.com marketing intern Mackenzie Mock

Dine Out / OptLOCAL Account Manager

Matt Clifford ext 113 | mclifford@marinmagazine.com 415.370.9464

Regional Sales Offices Wine Country

Tognetti & Associates | Wendy Tognetti 707.544.3643 Southern California

Leah Bronson ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com New York

Couture Marketing | Karen Couture 917.821.4429 Hawaii

Destination Marketing | Debbie Anderson 808.739.2200

Marin Magazine president/cofounder Nikki Wood ext 105 | nwood@marinmagazine.com

Marin Magazine One Harbor Dr, Suite 208, Sausalito, California 94965 ph 415.332.4800 fax 415.332.3048 web marinmagazine.com e m a i l advertising@marinmagazine.com TO SUBSCRIBE marinmagazine.com/subscribe

member of the BPA WorldWide

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View From Marin

“The only way to get closer to the Bay would be to dive in.”

From left: Mimi Towle, Nikki Wood, Dan Jewett

– Sunset

Davidson explains the technique and the gear used to create these shots and then takes us on a miniature tour of Marin.

30 El Portal, Sausalito 415.332.9535 www.innabovetide.com panoramic bay views fireplaces • private decks deep soaking tubs

e go back to the water

this month with the second installment of our two-part story on the Farallones sailing disaster that claimed the lives of five yachting crew members in April. Writer Jennifer Woodlief shares the rest of the gripping tale as she heard it from one of the survivors. She also writes about the aftermath, the published report on the incident and safety changes made (or not made) since the tragedy. Next up we indulge in a little photographic fun. Photographer Ben Davidson uses a technique called selective focus to bring Marin icons down to size —making them look not unlike children’s toys. Davidson explains the technique and the gear used to create these shots and then takes us on a miniature tour of Marin. You’ll also recognize his work on the front cover. We wrap up features with a story on the Mill Valley Film Group, three men who travel the world shooting short films on Goldman Environmental Prize winners, then return to their office on a Sausalito

houseboat to put together the footage. The film series, hosted by Robert Redford, is shown annually on KQED TV. Up front in the magazine we meet such interesting characters as a shoe-storeowner who’s also a comic book artist and the Mill Valley woman behind the movie Brave. And we know you’ll get as much of a kick out of meeting 92-year-old Marin dance pioneer Anna Halprin as we did. But good luck trying to keep up with her. In our travel section, we bring you beaches as we never have before — through the eyes of the Sports Illustrated writer with the tough assignment of providing text for the magazine’s famous swimsuit issue. With fall upon us, we invite you to settle into your coziest big chair and join us in celebrating all things Marin and beyond. Marin Magazine Staff Editors

mo delong

Top US Seaside Inns – Travel & Leisure Michelin Recommended

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today at canyon ranch childhood friends reunited, talked about their journeys and came together again on a mountain hike.

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POV

Here are my observations on the November 6 ballot. By Jim Wood

’ll vote on November 6, but I’m not

I feel life without the possibility of parole is a penalty that’s more humane and more compatible with a nation that values human rights.

as excited about it as I have been in previous elections. There are too many confusing propositions and it appears Obama already has California won. Frankly, I’d be more motivated if an exciting candidate were on the ballot. Imagine a smart, low-key presidential candidate who’s had successes in business and politics. Someone who’d immediately get us out of Afghanistan and work to end the death penalty, the Patriot Act and the ineffective war on drugs. Someone who’d reduce the federal bureaucracy (including defense spending) and be pro-choice and pro-gay rights. And to make it sound really good, let’s say he’s a world-class triathlete who’s summited Mount Everest. Memo to Jim: There is a candidate like that on the ballot. He’s Gary Johnson, a former two-term Republican governor of New Mexico who’s the Libertarian Party’s nominee for president. Adding to the picture, Johnson wants to cut Social Security, Medicaid and Medicare by 43 percent, eliminate the IRS and audit the Federal Reserve. Gary Johnson is worth a close look; he’s on the ballot in all 50 states. His running mate is James Gray, a former Superior Court judge from Southern California. Marin’s race for the state Assembly is also worth looking into. Marc Levine is a San Rafael city councilman with mostly local experience who’d be a fresh face in the Assembly. Rival Michael Allen has served a term in the Assembly and has key endorsements, but only recently moved to Marin. Both are Democrats. Your choice is between Levine, a dedicated local, age 38, and Allen, a savvy politician, age 65.

Barbara Ries

It’s Time to Vote

Easy calls: Dianne Feinstein and Jared Huffman in their races for the U.S. Senate and the U.S. House of Representatives, respectively. As for the Marin Healthcare District, which oversees Marin General Hospital, I’m going with the two incumbents. Regarding the 11 propositions on the ballot, here are some highlights. Governor Jerry Brown warns that to avoid a state budget meltdown, we need to vote yes on Proposition 30. I agree. It will raise state sales tax by one-fourth of a cent for seven years and increase income taxes on those earning more than $250,000 a year. In turn, $6 billion a year will help shore up the states’ K–12 schools (vote no on schoolfunding measure Proposition 38, as it conflicts). Vote yes on Proposition 34; California’s death penalty has been a colossal and expensive failure. I feel life without the possibility of parole is a penalty that’s more humane and more compatible with a nation that values human rights. The $100 million in savings generated from the death penalty’s elimination would go to law enforcement. Also vote yes on Proposition 36 — it revises California’s questionable Three Strikes Law by imposing life sentences only when the third conviction is for a crime that’s violent or serious in nature. The concept of labeling genetically modified foods is worthy, but this matter should be resolved in California’s Legislature, not on a state ballot. So I’d vote no on Proposition 37. Also attractive at first glance is Marin’s Measure A, calling for $90 million over nine years to acquire and maintain the county’s parks, open spaces and farmlands (the measure’s wording is vague). The money comes from adding yet another one-fourth of a cent to the county’s sales tax. With Marin’s rate already at 8-plus percent (San Rafael, Novato and Fairfax pay 8.5) and passage of Brown’s tax proposal (Proposition 30) adding another one-fourth of a cent, Measure A is a tough call. Whatever your opinions, be sure to express them on the ballot on or before November 6. That’s my point of view. What’s yours? Email pov@marinmagazine.com.

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POV

Your Letters Eight Souls Aboard

Still More on Roadside Blight

PETERSON, TIBURON

I recently spoke with the Caltrans employee in charge of the adopt-a-highway program that has been defunct for several years. When I spoke with him, his department was in the process of fi nding out which of the areas currently signed as being adopted were actually being worked on. When I asked specifically about Highway 101 in southern Marin, he said they have assessed the area, and basically everything (with minor exceptions) from the Golden Gate Bridge to Novato

Like many others, I’m eagerly awaiting the concluding episode to “Eight Souls Aboard” (October 2012) in Marin Magazine. One little factoid I didn’t notice before: What is the origin/significance of the boat’s name? My personal hunch is that it’s a takeoff on O.J. Simpson’s slow drive through Los Angeles after the murders were discovered and he was considered the prime suspect. Is that true, or does it mean something else? HERB

Eds.: According to Bryan Chong, the name of the boat was indeed a Simpson-chase reference. There was even an Interstate 405 decal on the side of the craft.

We continue to receive numerous emails and letters about Jim Wood’s July 2012 POV on roadside blight. Since this is obviously a hot topic, here is more of what readers have to say on the issue.

ONLINE, WE ASKED YOU

What were your plans for a weekend in September? 101

“Blues Festival at Russian River.” Michele Geoffrion Johnson, Novato

“Talking to folks about the importance of voting.” Brooke Langston

“Listening to Revolver play Beatles tunes.” Alicia Chin

“Tennis event at Harbor Point.” Katharine Fisher, Larkspur

“Giants game on Saturday.” Jennifer Clevenger, San Francisco

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POV

is not adoptable because of safety concerns. They consider issues such as slope, distance to traffic, etc. I asked why the old signs were still up, and he said maybe this fall they would get around to removing them. Their safety guidelines are federal as well as state. So this is indeed frustrating news. I don’t know where to go from here with the litter problem on 101, other than to contact our state representatives. To use Jim Wood’s phrase, “That’s my point of view. What’s yours?” By the way, I want to thank Jim for continuing to write about the litter problem. Vicky Dehnert, via email

I couldn’t agree with you more about the condition of our public landscaping and the tall stalks of fennel everywhere. What an eyesore. San Quentin inmates used to help with maintenance but I haven’t seen this lately. I recently visited my daughter in Los Altos and was struck by the tidiness you could see everywhere. I realize it is flatter there and perhaps easier to maintain but still. … Beverly

Armstrong, via email

CMY

redefining holiday gift giving

I know that you have been discussing roadside litter and the generally poor condition of our roadway shoulders and medians. My observations are targeted to the abundant litter along the roadsides. Have you noticed that most of the pickup trucks are open in back and are often filled with debris, heavy equipment and lunch leftovers? As I drive along, I literally see stuff flying out of the backs of these vehicles. We’ve all heard traffic reports that tell us to be careful of large debris blocking lanes, including furniture, buckets, lumber and garbage bags. Paper and wrappers are swept up and out along the roads. I think that requiring open-back trucks to cover their cargo area would go a long way toward curtailing our roadside mess. Karen Bert, Mill Valley I’ve read two of your articles in Marin Magazine about the condition of our roadsides. Couldn’t agree more. Whom should I contact at the State of California about this? How about a Marin County representative? Are there any petitions circulating about the problem? Do you know if prisoners could be

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used to clear weeds on state right-of-ways? I have long been aware of the disgusting look of our rights-of-way. What are the limitations of Marin County residents — surely we can’t get out and clear the mess ourselves because of liability issues? Thank you for writing your articles about this. Gaille Grissom, Corte Madera

Long-Distance Hoops

The basketball backboard photo essay in the September issue of Marin Magazine (“A Slam Dunk”) was great. I thought you might enjoy seeing some photos of backboards in Yap, Federated States of Micronesia. Basketball is the sport in Yap, as there are no soccer fields, baseball/softball fields or swimming pools in the country to speak of. Most villages field a local team and many small village corners and individual houses have a backboard. The weather is severe and nets don’t last long. I usually take several used nets (from Redwood and Dominican schools) to hand out. I consult with the department of education there, mentor teachers and do quite a bit of photography. Thanks again for a great photo presentation. Duncan MacSwain, San Rafael

Photos, clockwise from top: Michael O’Neal & Sarah Peet, Ken Viale, Kodiak Greenwood

‘Tis the Season to Celebrate!

Savor the Holidays

at Cavallo Point Lodge

Celebrate Thanksgiving and Christmas Day at Cavallo Point – always a great place to gather. Besides our traditional breakfasts and dinners, this year there’s something new to savor: an expansive holiday buffet in our grand Callippe banquet room. We’ll serve you at ﬁve food stations, including prime rib, a raw bar, pasta, salads and more. 12–6:30 pm, $85 adults / $30 kids Ring in 2013 with us & stay the night. Our festivities include New Year’s Eve Dinner & New Year’s Day Champagne Brunch – with seating preference given to those who spend the night.

FOR DETAILS, VISIT: cavallopoint.com/holidays

Hoop Responses

I am responding to an email that was sent in by a reader (“Your Letters,” October 2012) regarding the basketball hoops in Marin.

601 MURRAY CIRCLE FORT BAKER SAUSALITO, CA 94965 1.888.651.2003 CAVALLOPOINT.COM

continued on page 21

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p r o mot i o n

Bay Area events you’ll want to attend Friend us to share RSVP Hot Ticket photos at facebook.com/marinmagazine.

Connect

with us

•online

[upcoming events] 48tH annual gHirardelli square tree ligHting ceremony WHen November 23, 5:30 p.m. WHere Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point Street, San Francisco

WHy you Enjoy free, live entertainment for sHould the entire family throughout the go day culminating in the lighting

of the new Ghirardelli Square tree at 5:30 p.m. in the West Plaza. Visitors can take part in Ghirardelli Square’s gift to the city at this very special event that has become a tradition for many Bay Area families. The attendance of this event is typically about 5,000 people. It is estimated that 80 percent of attendees are locals from the San Francisco Bay Area. This year’s festivities will include live music, children’s entertainment and a visit from Santa Claus.

cost Free Find out ghirardellisq.com more

Halleck creek rancH annual Fundraiser Honoring Buck Brannaman WHen November 16, 6 p.m. VIP, 7 p.m. general WHere Rancho Nicasio Restaurant, 1 Old Rancheria Road, Nicasio WHy you This year Halleck Creek Ranch sHould is honoring legendary horse go trainer Buck Brannaman for his work helping horses and people overcome the barriers in their lives. Guests will enjoy a full dinner, a live auction featuring one-of-a-kind vacations, exceptional wines and unique gift items. Dancing to follow with music provided by Doug Adams and Bravo. Proceeds go to provide tuition scholarships for youth with disabilities who participate in the ranch’s therapeutic riding program. cost $125 per person Find out 415.662.2488, more halleckcreekranch.org

Want to see all the images from our RSVP Hot Ticket events? Visit marinmagazine.com/hotticket for the latest.

Enter to Win The Scottsdale-area Sonoran Desert is one of the world’s most spectacular natural playgrounds. Discover it for yourself by entering to win “Scottsdale’s Great Adventure Getaway,” which includes roundtrip airfare, three nights at the luxurious Phoenician Resort and an action-packed itinerary of outdoor adventures with activities such as rappelling, hiking, hot air balloon rides and off-road adventures. Enter today. marinmagazine.com/experiencescottsdale

Talking with Jamie Redford Go behind the scenes with filmmaker Jamie Redford — featured in the October issue — as he discusses his latest film projects, living in Marin, how he met his wife and, of course, a little about his famous dad. marinmagazine.com/videos

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POV

How elitist and racist of this person. I have lived here my whole life (46 years) and I am a fourth-generation Mill Valley resident and I want to ask her to “show some class.” Tania Kennedy, via email

In response to the “No More Hoops” letter (October 2012), I would say this is a perfect example of why those of us who live up north really love Mill Valley. Walter Dods, San Rafael

Fuzzy Math?

I read your article (POV, October 2012) and I beg to differ. You are stating that the $75 each resident is paying a year will add at least $75,000 to the value of each of our homes — I would like to know how you arrived at this number. We are all paying property taxes and other add-on fees, and our government still can’t make ends meet. Our roads and sidewalks look like something from a third world country; do we have to pay for their cleanup too by a special fee? Do we have to pay this in order to feel community pride? I would like your take on that. Nina Thomsen, via email

Correction

My mother and I were reading the October 2012 issue and — both enjoying the cover art — we wanted to know more about the artist. On further inspection, we found that not only did the issue not name the artist in the “Meet Our Cover Artist” blurb, but it never named her anywhere within the magazine. Sure, it would have been easy enough to go search for her online, but I thought this was very inappropriate and I was not pleased by the lack of editing in such a nice magazine. I hope you do a better job next time reading through your articles before sending out another issue. Emily Newell, via email Eds.: Our apologies to the artist and the readers who were confused by the lack of mention. The artist whose work graced our October 2012 cover was Phoebe Brunner. letters to the editor Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine.com. Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

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Meet with the experts from:

Come join us for our annual

Eminence ❖ Epicuren Arcona ❖ Cosmedix Urban Remedy and more

CLIENT APPRECIATION DAY

Special Discounts available November 14 - November 20 Go to www.evo-spa.com for more details.

November 13, 2012 2pm - 6pm We celebrate YOU with our special once a year discounts!

Design your own package of services and receive 20% off 15% off ALL Skincare Products Spa & phone orders accepted all day Demos, Raffles & Fun!

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10/5/12 2:14 PM

In Marin

ce l e b r at i n g t h e peo pl e , pl ace s a n d c au s e s o f t h i s u n i q u e co u n t y

Most-needed items include soup, chili, baked beans, canned vegetables, tuna, canned meat, cereal, peanut butter and granola bars.

tim porter

Food for Thought In Marin County, one in five faces the threat of hunger on any given day. That’s a statistic based on a common marker of need — the number of people living at or below 185 percent of the federal poverty level. The numbers don’t surprise the folks at the recently merged San Francisco and Marin County food banks, who work to distribute more than 5 million pounds of food a year (12,000 meals per day throughout both counties). “For many, because of prolonged

economic distress, it’s more than a meal; it’s a lifeline,” says Leslie Bacho, deputy executive director. Four new farmers’market-style pantries have opened this year in Marin (Corte Madera, Fairfax, Marin City and the Hamilton area) bringing the grand total to 32. Want to help? While food donations at the more than 30 donation sites around the county are appreciated, cash is still king. One dollar stretches to six dollars’ worth of food. sffoodbank.org MELISSA GARDNER WHITE m a r i n n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 23

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In Marin / currents

books

Reading List Mount Tamalpais and the Marin Municipal Water District by Jack Gibson, Arcadia Press, $21.95. Here’s how it all works and when and where it all started. Did you know the MMWD was chartered 100 years ago? More than 200 vintage photos; author is an attorney and former Marin history teacher.

Nothing But the Truth So Help Me God: 51 Women Reveal the Power of Positive Female Connection by

Leon: Baking & Desserts by Claire Ptak and Henry Dimbleby, Octopus Books, $29.99. This is as taste-tempting and arty as a cookbook can be. Authored by a cofounder of London’s Leon restaurant and the former pastry chef at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse (who was raised in West Marin). It adds class to any cook’s or aspiring cook’s library. JIM WOOD

Marin Artists With National Appeal

Inspired by the beauty of the place they call home, these three Marin artists have found commissions around the country. M.G.W.

Archie Held

This Novato-based artist’s work includes more than 500 pieces, including a bronze water installation in the Village at Corte Madera and sculptures on the Genentech South San Francisco campus and in the lobby of the Michael & Susan Dell Foundation building in Austin. archieheld.com

Latchezar Boydjiev

A sculptor of vividly colored, sensuous cast-glass pieces, Boydjiev lives and works in Novato. His work appears in the healing garden of the oncology department of Lahey Clinic in Boston; new sculptures are on display at the National Liberty Museum in Philadelphia and at the Oakland Museum of California through March of next year. latchezarboyadjiev.com

Ian Ross

Known as the “tech/start-up artist,” this third-generation artist from Mill Valley paints murals (one as tall as 45 feet) for companies like Facebook. His latest, a rendering of colorful deer, was commissioned as part of Google’s “Building a Healthier Google” initiative and appears in the new wing of the Mountain View campus. ianrossart.com

Bernie weiner (opposite page top); Rapt Productions (opposite page bottom)

A Band of Wives, edited by Christine Bronstein and Carol Pott, NBTT, LLC, $14.95, e-book $9.99. Inspired by the power of the written word and the friendship and support of women, Christine Bronstein brought together 51 women and created the first in a series of edited anthologies that includes essays, poetry and artwork.

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10/11/12 1:48 PM

At Financial Connections we align your investments with your values. Onstage Featuring appearances by Marin residents Robin Williams, Peter Coyote, Anna Halprin and Larry Eilenberg, the awardwinning film Stage Left: A Story of Theater in San Francisco, documents the history and influence of the San Francisco theater movement. Using archival footage, art, photos and exclusive interviews, Stage Left offers an inside look into the socially conscious performances that influenced both theater and Bay Area culture. The film will air on KQED TV Sunday, November 11, at 10 p.m. stageleft -movie.com SOPHIE SHULMAN Above: S.F. Mime Troupe in front of city hall. This photo: Peter Coyote gives a firsthand account.

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10/11/12 12:56 PM

In Marin / currents

The Buck Institute’s Next Evolution

An alternative energy option known as a geothermal heat pump system kicks into high gear this month at the Buck Institute’s new Regenerative Medicine Research Building, which opened on the Novato campus in April. Not only does this system save power, reducing the aging-research institute’s carbon footprint by 53 percent, it also conserves more than 18,000 gallons of water a day. The San Francisco–based architectural and lab design firm Perkins+Will picked up where original architect I.M. Pei left off. David Bendet, of the firm, says the unique, open design of this third building promotes connection to the outdoors and collaboration between the biologists, geneticists and computer scientists who would otherwise be walled off from one another. “It’s almost like a Zen experience,” says Bendet, “and that’s bound to accelerate scientific discoveries.” The California Institute for Regenerative Medicine provided half the funding for the $41 million building — one of 12 stem cell facilities approved for funding throughout the state. buckinstitute.org M.G.W. Marin Magazine April issue - half pg spread

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10/11/12 3:55 PM

on the JOB Charles Yoakum, Marin Running Company

tim porter

722 San Anselmo Avenue, San Anselmo, marinrunningcompany.com You would never know upon entering the Marin Running Company in San Anselmo that Charles Yoakum, the cheerful 46-year-old proprietor, leads a double life. In public, he sells running gear. In private, he draws graphic novels teeming with violence and superheroes. He once drew Batman for DC Comics. Are you an entrepreneur with a secret life? In a way. But both activities are two sides of the same coin. I use my knowledge of physiology and anatomy to correct a runner’s stride and my imagination to see how that stride will be up- and down-hill. My art requires those same skills when I draw a figure in action. In both activities, you look for the Zen state where you cease to think about anything — you just react and do. Which came first, running or comics? My grandmother bought me my first comic book when I was 7; that was when I knew I wanted to be an artist. Running came at 12 when I realized I couldn’t catch a ball or throw a ball, so cross-country was my best option. Do your running customers know that you draw? A few do. But because this is retail, I prefer to keep my focus on my customers instead of on me. My younger athlete friends thought I was strange for wanting to be an artist. Do your artist friends know that you run? Yes. Oh God, to them I’m an oddball. You know, artists think sports are for meatheads and jocks. To me, my life is the perfect balance between intellectual and physical. Who are your best customers? Mostly people who feel out of shape. We are the bartenders of the athletic set — we unwrap a pair of shoes for them and we make them feel good. A good bartender gives people not what they want but what they need. EVE PELL

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10/11/12 3:56 PM

Announcing the birth of a world-class prenatal diagnostic center in Greenbrae

UCSF’s exceptional women’s services just got closer to home. Designed for Marin moms-to-be, UCSF’s newest Prenatal Diagnostic Center offers the most technologically advanced screening and diagnostic tests to determine the risk for birth defects or genetic disorders, many with same-day results. Our genetic experts provide compassionate counseling to help guide you and your doctor through your options. To make an appointment, talk to your doctor or call (415) 476-4080.

What’s on Tap? Apparently the term locavore can also apply to spring water. Thanks to 31-year-old Josh Tyhurst and his wife, Linn, who moved to Novato in January, Marin County now has its own local distributor: Mayacamas Mountain Spring Water, sourced from Lake County and delivered in BPA-free plastic bottles. And the bottles, like the water, come right from Sonoma. “Only the big guys — Arrowhead and Alhambra — were servicing this area and not with the kind of quality spring water we would want,” Josh Tyhurst says. Banking on the notion that Marin residents care not only about their health and the environment but about supporting local businesses that provide a personal touch, the couple began distributing the water in May. mayacamaswater.com JILLIAN RODRIGO

UCSF Prenatal Diagnostic Center 1300 S. Eliseo Drive, Suite 200 • Greenbrae www.ucsfhealth.org/pdc

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10/10/12 2:45 PM

In Marin / currents

Culinary Caverns Is your kitchen feeling cramped? Start digging. Corte Madera residents Zdravko Terziev and Ellen Freeman prove there is no such thing as wasted space. A skilled culinary cave architect, Terziev constructed a 5-by-5-foot cave for food storage behind Freeman’s retaining wall beneath her chicken coop. He has built a number of culinary caves, including a few on his own property. Construction takes about a month and costs around $15,000 per project. The caves can serve as storage for many types of items but are especially popular for keeping cheese and wine, curing meat and drying fruit. S.s.

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10/10/12 2:45 PM

In Marin / CURRENTS

16 QUESTIONS FOR

Brenda Chapman Brenda Chapman’s life is the stuff fairy tales are made of — so to speak. In her real-life version, the talented and creative female thrives in a male-dominated industry and then returns home each day to her own fairy-princess daughter and Prince Charming husband. Indeed, Chapman has seen great success, Writer/ initially as the first woman to direct an animated Director feature, 1989’s The Prince of Egypt from DreamWorks MILL VALLEY and later working on films such as The Lion King and Beauty and the Beast. Her husband of 24 years, Kevin Lima, is also a successful Hollywood director, with films like Enchanted and Tarzan under his belt. The plot twist came in 2010 as Chapman, Pixar’s first female feature writer/director and creator of this summer’s blockbuster Brave (ironically, a girl-power princesses tale), was suddenly replaced as its director — by a man. She shrugged off the controversy, is happy the final version (coming out on DVD this month) mostly reflects the story she wrote and is now working with Lucasfilm and lecturing around the country. MIMI TOWLE Why Marin? I received a job offer at Pixar back in 2003, and I thought, I want to live someplace cool (not trendy cool but temperature cool — I hated the heat of Los Angeles). I also wanted good schools for our daughter and I wanted to be near nature. Mill Valley was the perfect fit.

Where did you get the confidence to make storytelling and art your career? My mom. Her backstory fascinates me: born in 1922, raised by her grandparents and educated in a oneroom schoolhouse in White County, Illinois. Her grandfather believed a woman’s place was in the home — so despite her recognized artistic skills she was taken out of school in eighth grade, along with her teacher who had dared encourage her.

Where did you learn to draw? Again, my mom. She did great fashion drawings (Coco Chanel style) for me all the time — I just loved it. We would play the game where you scribble on a piece of paper and give it to the other person to make something out of the markings.

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Your daughter is in eighth grade; could you imagine taking her out of school to become a homemaker? No, and ironically she loves sewing and creating beautiful things out of all kinds of stuff — but for her it’s a creative process, not domestic slavery. She loves singing and acting. I look forward to seeing what she chooses to pursue.

Any mentors? After looking at the storyboards for my third-year film at CalArts college, the late Joe Ranft — a great story man from Disney and later, Pixar, and a very dear friend — encouraged me to consider story. I took his advice and was lucky enough to land at Disney as a story trainee. I went on to work with work with Roger Allers, who was my mentor on The Little Mermaid, Beauty and the Beast and others. He later asked me to be his head of story on The Lion King. Both Joe and Roger encouraged and inspired me.

Was there ever a chance the princess in Brave, Merida, would be anything other than a redhead? No. The wild curly red hair was always part of her

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In Marin / currents

Creating Independent Learners

character, and it was planned to really pop out on the screen against all the green of Scotland.

Did you model any characteristics of Merida after your own daughter? Her personality — and that she had a girl’s healthy body, not an anorexic supermodel body.

Which has the best cafeteria — DreamWorks or Lucasfilm? Well, DreamWorks’ cafeteria food is free and good, Lucasfilm grows its own produce and they have great chefs — that’s a tough one. I eat too much at them either way.

Inspirational animated films? I absolutely remember the rerelease of Cinderella in 1973; they had me with the opening scene.

Would you say your life is a Cinderella story? No, I love those old movies, but waiting for the prince to come and save you — give me a break. Brave was meant to break that mold.

Was it love at first sight when you met your husband? Ha ha, sort of. On the first day of school, at CalArts in Valencia, I had a work-study job at the registrar’s office, checking everyone in. I met every single student that day, including Kevin. He said he knew I was the one as soon as he saw me. Sadly, I don’t remember meeting him that day.

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What’s downtime like for you? Sleeping! Just kidding — sort of. Reading, movies, hiking and spending time with family and friends. Although right now, I don’t seem to have much time for any of these things, except family.

Favorite pizza? I have fallen in love with Tamalpie, but I also love Frantoio — besides loving the pizza, I send the olive oil to my family.

15 16

Best drink and where do you like to drink it? The lemon drop at Frantoio. Are you working on your next story? Always. m

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9/26/12 11:12 AM

In Marin / conversation

Left: Anna Halprin in the yard of her Ross home. Below: Halprin dancing Intensive Care in Paris.

he yea r is 1947, it’s Saturday

Anna Halprin

Keeping up with this 92-year-old dance pioneer is no easy task. By Jim Wood • Photos by Tim Porter

morning and at the Holy Innocents Church on historic Old Corte Madera Square a dance class for youngsters has just started. This is, well, a different kind of dance class. It’s not formalized; the children wear whatever costume fits their morning mood; it’s operated collectively by the children’s parents, and its purpose is to help the young people live their lives creatively. The instructor is a 27-year-old sprite named Anna Halprin. Classes at All Innocents ran from 8 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. and involved children of all ages. Halprin was there the entire day. She and her husband, Larry (the late Lawrence Halprin, who would later become an internationally renowned landscape architect), had only recently moved to Marin. Previously Anna, who had enjoyed dancing since age 5, studied the art form under the famed Margaret H’Doubler at the University of Wisconsin and appeared with Burl Ives in the Broadway musical Sing Out Sweet Land. Settled in Marin, she began creating, teaching and performing what she now calls “integrative dance” to audiences and students throughout the world, eventually teaming with her two daughters to form the Tamalpa Institute in San Rafael.

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10/10/12 12:59 PM

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In the 1960s, Halprin’s dances were staged in Venice, Paris, Stockholm, Warsaw, New York City and Los Angeles. Her themes ranged from the Watts Riots and racial integration to planetary peace and world understanding; some were staged nude, others in costume and many simply in street clothes. Later performances touched on AIDS, her personal battle with cancer and the death and dying of Larry

Before there were books, dance was a way of storytelling. Dances were performed at marriages, at harvest time and before going into battle. Halprin, the love of her life. Some involved experienced dancers, others utter neophytes; some brought together international guest performers, many Halprin did solo; some were performed with audience participation, others for just one or two people or nobody at all. Getting an in-depth interview with Anna Halprin is no easy task; this energetic and strikingly down-to-earth 92-year-old teacher/ choreographer/performer is constantly on the go, whether making an extended visit to her beloved Sonoma Coast home at the Sea Ranch, treating a minor occupational foot injury or juggling a weekend schedule “overly crowded” with classes. Something always seems to be calling Anna Halprin to action.

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10/10/12 12:59 PM

the center of it all!

A grove of redwoods outside Halprin’s home.

“Integrative dancing.” What do you mean by that? Many, many years ago, before there were books, dance was a way of storytelling. Dances were performed at marriages, at harvest time and before going into battle. Rising up on your toes was a way of elevating one’s self from earthly concerns. It was a very personal and expressive process and, in a way, I want to get back to that. To integrate, of course, means blending various parts into a functioning whole, and that’s what I like to do — both for myself and for others. And, within that context, dance can be transformative — meaning it can create change in appearances, in character, even in mental and physical health. Can you give an example? When I was 50, I was ill and depressed and I thought I was going to die. I drew a self-portrait that showed a round, gray object the size of a golf ball in my pelvic area. I immediately crossed it out. But after an exam, my doctor said it was cancer and he operated. Three years later it reoccurred and I did another portrait that showed I had considerable rage and anger. This time, I came up with a ritual-like dance involving shouting and whimpering. It wasn’t something that would be done before an audience to entertain. I had no idea what the movements would be before I started dancing. I just knew it needed to show the relationship of imagery to movement and what was going on in my body. It was a very real and emotional experience that I required

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10/11/12 3:28 PM

Your health care, close at hand.

of myself to release the destructive power that was within me. It eventually arrested my cancer. Before cancer, I lived life for my art — after, I lived my art for my life. Was there a dance performance that had an especially emotional impact on an audience? In the late 1980s, we did a performance that revolved around the AIDS epidemic. At the time, no one knew what caused AIDS, only that you would probably die from it. There

It wasn’t something that would be done before an audience to entertain. I had no idea what the movements would be before I started dancing. Sutter Pacific Medical Foundation doctors offer personal primary and specialty care in more than 50 neighborhood locations. And, as part of the Sutter Health network, you’ll have convenient online access to view medical records, renew prescriptions, check lab results, e-mail your doctor and book appointments – even same day visits. To experience health care on your terms, find a Sutter Pacific doctor near you by calling 1-888-699-DOCS (3627) or visit sutterpacific.org.

were 100 people dancing; half had the disease and half were caregivers. Over a thousand people came to see it. One of them was a young man who had AIDS, but his parents didn’t know about his illness — and he’d invited them. At the end of the performance, people in the audience who had AIDS were invited to come forward and shout, “I want to live.” One was this young man, who wanted his parents to learn of his illness in this context. He wanted his folks to see the healing environment he was part of — it was very emotional for all of us. You created a dance to work through the emotions of losing your husband? Yes, that would be Intensive Care, which involved reflections on death and dying. I based it on seeing Larry,

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10/10/12 1:00 PM

In Marin / conversation

my late husband, in the hospital’s intensive care unit, where I visited him every day for over a month — never knowing if he would live or die each day. I was in my late 80s at the time and the dance movements are based on my watching him trying to talk, scratching at his throat and constantly fidgeting with his hands. I connected it to my utter sadness and fear of loss. There were several talented dancers in the performances that we did at the Pompidou Theater in Paris and the Cowell Theater in San Francisco. The costumes were very stark; so was the makeup; and, yes, there was a lot of screaming. I wanted to depict the courage that is needed when you are facing death.

My passions haven’t changed. I just have more time to

pursue

them.

What do you consider your greatest accomplishment? That’s easy; it’s the International Dance for Peace, which I created in the 1980s. It started right here on Mount Tam in response to the dreaded Trailside Killer and it’s now being done in over 46 countries. Has dance contributed to your longevity? And vitality? (Long pause) Yeah, I think so. I think dancing is very healthful and helpful towards having a strong mind-body connection. Dance certainly builds that — especially if you’re dancing for a deeper purpose. And look, I’m still aboveground. m

For retired lawyer and resident, Neal McNamara, The Tam’s maintenance-free lifestyle means more time to pursue his passions. The Tam provides a secure home base for Neal’s travel to fishing and golf venues around the world. He’s happily cast-off his “have-to’s” for his “want-to’s.” Enjoy a world of inspiring choices while managing your future health care costs. To learn more about the peace of mind shared by Neal and all of our wLife Care residents, please call Nancy Martin (415) 464-1754 and ask about our new contract options.

Opposite page: The view from Halprin’s home. This page: Halprin sits with a gift from George Lucas.

A Life Care Community (415) 461-2300 | www.thetam.org 501 Via Casitas, Greenbrae, CA 94904 This not-for-profit community is part of Northern California Presbyterian Homes and Services. License# 210102761 COA# 099.

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10/10/12 3:40 PM

Tragedy, rescue, loss and the aftermath of the Full Crew Farallones sailing disaster. by Jennifer Woodlief m a r i n oc to b e r 2 0 1 2 41

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10/10/12 3:40 PM

“So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

n the long history of yacht racing few boats have ever seen the loss of life as was experienced by the Low Speed Chase on April 14. There a re at least two tragedies with higher death tolls than in the Apr il Fu ll Crew Farallones Race, but those disasters both involved mu ltiple boats in hu rricane-strength winds. The weeklong, 605-mile Fastnet Race through the Irish Sea is considered one of amateur yachting’s greatest challenges. In the 1979 race, 300 boats set sail in fine weather, but within 48 hours the sailboats were pounded by a vicious and entirely unpredicted Force 10 storm that swept across the north Atlantic. For nearly 24 hours the approximately 2,700 crew members on the boats were battered by monster waves and 60-knot winds. In the end, five yachts sank, dozens of boats capsized, and 136 sailors were rescued by helicopters, merchant ships and the navies of at least three countries. Incredibly, only 15 sailors perished. In the annual Sydney Hobart Yacht Race, sailboats traverse the infamously rough 630-mile stretch of Bass Strait and the Tasman Sea between Sydney, Australia, and Hobart, Tasmania. During the 1998 race, a freakish, unseasonal storm with squalling winds and 60-foot waves resulted in five boats sinking, seven boats abandoned at sea, 57 sailors requiring rescue and a total of six deaths.

—Mark Twain

A Treacherous Path It is virtually unprecedented for a single sailboat in a race to lose five crew members, and just as extraordinary for the fatalities to occur at the hand of a set of two individual waves rather than during a penetrating storm with gale-force winds. Yet the wave patterns at the Farallon Islands are particularly treacherous. Close to the islands pounded by seas kicked up by the edge of the continental shelf, volatile waves can form very rapidly. The lee shore is especially brutal, with jagged rocks and swells that intensify near the coastline. The contour of the bottom of the ocean can dramatically affect wave height, as at the famous Mavericks surf break, and the area around the Farallones has some fairly major water

depth changes. Deepwater waves increase in height and begin breaking as they reach shallow water. Around the northwest corner of Maintop Island, there is a four-fathom shoal that extends hundreds of yards offshore. This reef is capable of generating plunging breakers, also known as classic surfing waves — extreme formations in which the wave face becomes vertical, curls, then collapses into the trough. When Low Speed Chase sailed toward the Farallon Islands on April 14, as anticipated, the crew encountered swells of 10 to 12 feet with larger sets as high as 15 feet. The mood on the boat was relaxed, with scattered, light conversations over the rush of the wind. Bryan spent some time getting to know Elmer. Alan, the captain, allowed Jay, Jordan, Nick and Bryan to take turns driving, and as they changed positions there was various chatter about which sail would be safest for the ride home. While it is strenuous work to sail upwind to the Farallones from San Francisco due to prevailing coastal winds, the reward is in the ride back. Equivalent to hiking uphill carrying skis and then skiing down the mountain, once a sailboat rounds the islands, the trip home is downwind the whole way, with the boat, on occasion, almost planing across the top of the water. As the crew neared the midpoint of the race, they were looking forward to that payoff. Low Speed Chase approached the Farallones around 2:30 p.m. Bryan, who had never seen the islands before but had always thought of them as mystical, was struck by their desolate beauty. Up close, there was nothing hospitable about them. The crew was near enough to smell the strong odor of birds and marine animals wafting over the water. Alex and Elmer, who commented that the islands looked like something out of Lord of the Rings, were both feeling a little seasick. As the boat sailed around the first craggy point on the northwest corner of the Farallones, there were clear swells in the open ocean, while the whitecaps closer to the rocky coastline were breaking at about 15 feet. Alan began to round the islands heading toward the second point of Maintop Island, choosing a route that took them slightly closer to the shore. Bryan kept an eye on the drop-off where the break line ended abruptly, afterward estimating that the craft was around 10 boat lengths, or 128 yards, outside of the breakers. According to GPS coordinates reviewed after the accident, the boat was approximately 400 yards, or a quarter mile, from the coastline. Their line had them crossing the shallow shoal at a depth of only about 28 feet.

The Wall of Water No one on the boat expressed any concerns about their proximity to the islands. The crew had seen another boat sail around Maintop Island a few minutes earlier on an outside track, and as they looked behind them, one boat was also outside of them while another appeared to be on the same line. Alan was at the wheel, Bryan was trimming the main, and the rest of the crew was bent over on the starboard rail.

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Brant Ward/ S.F. Chronicle/Polaris (opener); U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (this page)

At that point they encountered the largest surge they had seen all day, but the boat sailed safely over it before the wave broke. Less than 30 seconds later, the crews’ attention was drawn by another wave coming from the same direction. Springing up dozens of feet above the ocean surface, this one was a colossal wall of water, a plunging wave straight out of a surf contest. As the rogue wave headed for the sailboat, its face began flattening as it crested, seemingly in slow motion. If the boat had been positioned at that exact location seconds earlier, the wave would have merely existed as a massive swell that they could have ridden out, and if it had been there a moment later, the wave would have already broken and dissolved harmlessly. As it was, there was nowhere, and no way, for Low Speed Chase to escape the confluence of dynamics at that specific place at that precise time. Although Bryan remembers focusing on the thought, “this is going to be bad,” it is possible that it was something in the tone of Alan’s voice as he steered directly into the wave that instinctively signaled Bryan to grip his own wrist as tightly as he could, securing the bottom lifeline between his arms. The 38-foot, 15,000-pound sailboat pointed unswervingly into the wave, climbing vertically up the cresting wall of water. Although the official report issued by U.S. Sailing calculated the wave afterward, according to various charts and graphs, to be about 31 feet high, Bryan has a clear memory of the doomed yacht fully climbing up the inside of the wave with a band of water still above the boat, a scenario that would put the wave height at something like 40 feet. The experience was so overwhelmingly disorienting that it is still not completely clear to Bryan — and never will be — whether Low Speed Chase actually rolled at that point or, like a particularly macabre carnival ride, whether it reached a tipping point and swung back down. Nick, who was clinging to a stanchion, later stated that the wave rotated the sailboat 90 degrees counterclockwise before finally barrel-rolling it, a scenario that explains how the boat ended up pointing back in the same direction it started. Either way, the effect was that Alan and five of the crew members on the rail were swept into the frigid, churning ocean, leaving only Bryan and Nick on board, but underwater, as the boat spun. When the sailboat bobbed back up, it was floundering — the mast was snapped, the sails were in tatters and all of the flotation devices had been yanked off. As torrents of water gushed off the deck, Bryan and Nick reached for Alan and Jordan in the roiling water on the port side and attempted to pull them back onto the boat. Alan’s personal flotation device (PFD) was not inflated. Alex was in the ocean about 10 feet off the bow, and Nick screamed her name repeatedly, yelling at her to swim to the boat. In response, she gave him a thumbs-up.

When the second wave hit just a moment later, Bryan’s back was to it. He had his hands on Jordan at the time, and, focused on trying to save his crewmate, he never even saw the wave that f lowed over the boat and f lung him overboard into the break zone. The second wave that shattered Low Speed Chase likely wasn’t as large as the first one and didn’t f lip the boat upside down. As the boat had been carried in much farther toward the shore, however, the timing and viciousness of the second wave not only ripped Bryan off the boat but also tossed the boat up onto the rocks. Nick managed to stay on board, his leg broken and tangled in various lines, and ride the boat onto the island. According to the GPS track, only 90 seconds elapsed from the time the boat capsized until it ran aground on the rocks.

In the Sea Between the adrenaline and the shock, Bryan

never registered the temperature after being plunged into the 51-degree water. Utterly focused on trying to control his panic as best he could and hold his breath until the waves flipped him up and allowed him to snatch a brief breath, it didn’t occur to him to notice the cold. Once in the water, Bryan described the experience as being in “a washing machine filled with boulders.” He was wearing an inflatable PFD, but even so, the currents forced him underwater and pinned him there. In addition, his PFD continually rode up on his chest, compelling him to use his hands and arms to keep it in place, sapping his energy and concentration. With no control over which way he was moving, Bryan was powerless to swim to the rocky shore, but the surf drove his body both underwater and toward the island. Unable to direct the randomness of which stretch of coastline

Views of Low Speed Chase washed up on the rocks from news coverage (opener) and from U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service salvage efforts (below).

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he was headed for, he floundered while the waves slammed his body against jagged outcroppings as he frantically tried to grab onto the rocks and scramble out of the water. The rock formations were incredibly sheer as well as slippery with moss and seaweed while the terror of the situation combined with the hammering waves rendered the possibility of survival increasingly remote. Bryan experienced the helpless sensation of losing his breath while accidentally swallowing mouthfuls of water. He thought about giving up, he thought about his wife and baby son. He, and almost certainly the rest of the crew as well, was likely suffering from cold water shock, the body’s initial reaction to immersion in frigid water. The responses include reflex gasping, uncontrolled rapid breathing and an inability to breath-hold. Stress on the heart can also occur, reducing the blood supply to the brain and resulting in confusion, disorientation or a sudden loss of consciousness. Time after time Bryan partially pulled himself up to safety just as a wave pitched over him and hurled him backward, locking him underwater. “It was so steep and the waves kept hitting me,” he says. “It was a constant struggle to get on the rocks.” After ultimately dragging himself half out of the whipping blender of the roiling ocean onto some low rocks, Bryan instantly felt the full force of having been submerged for 15 minutes in the icy water. Sprawled on a ridge about 200 yards from where the boat had come ashore, he was in danger of hypothermia, and in addition was suffering from rib contusions and a huge bruise on his arm where the lifeline had jerked him around. Bryan could hear Nick shouting at him to climb to higher ground. His legs collapsed when he tried to stand, so he crawled on his hands and knees to the rocks above him. In searching the area for their crewmates, Bryan and Nick discovered that Jay had pulled himself onto a ledge about 200 yards farther down the shoreline. Marc had been next to Jay when they first washed into the rocks. Jay had seen him standing in the shallows as they both tried to lunge up the vertical cliff, then a wave cruelly smashed into Marc, separating them.

sophie webb

Rescue and Loss The U.S. Coast Guard, summoned by

Mayday distress calls from five other boats in the race, immediately diverted a helicopter to respond. After stopping to refuel, the chopper arrived on the scene within 57 minutes. The helicopter first flew over the area scanning for other possible survivors, but as Bryan says, “between the waves, foam, rocks and the sea lions that were everywhere, it was like looking for a needle in a haystack.” Rescuers were able to locate Marc floating facedown in the water about six miles offshore and pulled his body from the water. He was pronounced dead at the scene. The Coast Guard had sent an 87-foot cutter as well as a helicopter, but since it couldn’t get close to the wrecked boat, the Coast Guard, along with the California Air National Guard, conducted a helicopter rescue. While the Coast Guard

generally practices rescues from heights of 30 to 50 feet, due to the wind and the turbulence of the water, they picked up Bryan, then Nick, each with a 210-foot line. As the helicopter hovered overhead, each of the survivors was loaded into a litter and hoisted inside. Jay’s location, stranded on a rock surrounded by sheer walls, didn’t allow the same space for a basket landing, so he had to be plucked off the cliff face by a rescuer lowered on a rope from an Air National Guard helicopter. The Coast Guard had also received a signal from the EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) on Low Speed Chase, but as it was not GPS-enabled, the location was four miles off and the signal wasn’t “heard” for 40 minutes (a delay and location mistake that did not affect the rescue given the multiple calls already coming in to the Coast Guard). Due to poor radio protocol and overlapping transmissions from the other boats in the race, there was initial confusion about which craft was in trouble versus which boats were calling to report the incident. In addition, Coast Guard personnel, working off the preliminary crew list, didn’t have Bryan’s name on their passenger list, and were initially concerned that more than one boat had crashed. While these miscommunications didn’t end up hampering the search and rescue operation, they did create havoc back at the SFYC. At the club, friends and family of the crew members initially received reports that an Olson 30 (not a Sydney 38 like the Low Speed Chase) with a specific sail number had washed up on the rocks. Even when Jordan’s parents received a call that his personal locator beacon had gone off, members congregating at the SFYC didn’t necessarily think that he was in jeopardy but that perhaps he had thrown his beacon in the water to summon help for another boat. A little while later, friends and family learned that the EPIRB for the Low Speed Chase itself had gone off, a fact that didn’t fit into the scenario they had constructed. The boat’s EPIRB had initiated an emergency contact call to Jay’s brother in the city, who in turn called Berkeley Riley at the St. Francis Yacht Club, where he was still waiting for Low Speed Chase to return. Berkeley immediately contacted the Coast Guard and was connected to a captain who confirmed that Nick and Jay were ashore on one of the Farallon Islands. Their friend assumed that they would be heading home mortified for wrecking the boat, until the captain uttered the following phrase: “We received four persons, three survivors.” Berkeley paused, stunned. “Do you mean that one is not alive?” he finally asked. The answer, in the affirmative, came quickly, and that was the point at which everything began to unravel for the loved ones of the Low Speed Chase crew. It was early, still daylight on a beautiful, sunny day, a factor that somehow made the situation seem even more surreal. Having heard no word about the other members of the crew, their friends and family initially managed to maintain the expectation that they were fine. They were still desperately trying to get more information when Berkeley’s cellphone rang with a call from Nick. For a brief moment he allowed himself to experience a flood of relief that the whole thing had been one

Sophie Webb, a Point Reyes Bird Observatory researcher, photographed this image of Air National Guard personnel being lowered to the crash site on April 14.

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a boat twice since the Farallones catastrophe — once in the memorial flotilla honoring the victims, and once to attend Alex’s memorial at AT&T Park. His mind-set about getting back out on the water is as follows: “Baby steps, right? To sail, probably. To race — maybe.” The wreck prompted the Coast Guard’s temporary suspension of races outside San Francisco Bay to allow the offshore racing community to determine whether changes were needed to improve safety. The “stand down” period lasted a few weeks, during which one ocean-water race was moved into the bay and the San Francisco Police Department concluded that there was no criminal negligence involved in the incident. Almost four months after the tragedy, U.S. Sailing issued a The Aftermath In the days following the accident, 90-page report, ultimately finding that the primary cause of mourners saturated the entrance of the SFYC with cards the accident was the course Low Speed Chase sailed in proxand flowers. A week afterward, friends of the Low Speed imity to the islands, while also confirming that at least one Chase organized a flotilla in Belvedere Cove and Raccoon other boat in the race passed over exactly the same area just Strait. More than a hundred boats, all with their running 11 minutes after Low Speed Chase capsized and did not have lights on, congregated near Elephant Rock in Tiburon and any trouble with the waves. In addition, GPS tracks proved fell in line behind the Tiburon fireboat, which led the prothat Low Speed Chase had sailed even closer to the islands in cession with its spinning lights. In a powerful and somber the race the previous year without incident. ceremony, sailboat crews dropped f lowers and wreaths For the most part, the response of the sailing community into the bay, the fireboat sprayed five plumes of water to has been to blame pure there-but-for-the-grace-of-God-go-I represent the lost crew members, eight bells sounded off bad luck for the disaster, as well as to support increased safety (a nautical way of saying that a sailor’s watch is over), a practices and procedures. lone bagpiper played bleak renderings of “Danny Boy” and With regard to accident prevention going forward, the U.S. “Amazing Grace,” and a moment of silence was followed Sailing report pointed to inadequate personal safety gear by the shatter of five gunshots, the Navy Hymn and a horn among the Low Speed Chase crew, specifically citing the lack blast from all the participating boats in a final tribute to of tethers to keep sailors on the boat and insufficient PFDs the dead sailors. to survive in the freezing water. Although each of the crew The day of the flotilla, a biologist on the Farallones spotmembers was wearing some type of life jacket or a PFD (some ted a body clad in an orange life vest floating offshore, but by more effective than others), none of them was tethered to the the time a Coast Guard recovery vessel arrived, it had disapboat at the time the wave hit it. peared. Jordan’s body was found five days after that sighting, Tethers were optional in the race according to OYRA 12 days after the accident. On May 2, Elmer’s body, initially rules, and most of the racers on other boats had not clipped in identified by his clothing and his watch, was also recovered. that day. The general consensus among sailors, at least prior Alan and Alex remain lost at sea. to this event, is to reserve Nine days a f ter Low their use for sailing at night Speed Chase capsized, its or in exceptionally high seas. tattered w reckage — surWhile tethers can theoretir ou nde d by hu nd r e d s of More than a hundred boats, all with seals, sea lions and elephant their running lights on, congregated near cally save lives by keeping a sailor on board, the point of seals on a rocky ledge just a Elephant Rock in Tiburon and fell in line them is to prevent someone few feet above the surging from falling off a perfectly waves — was lifted off the behind the Tiburon Fireboat. good boat, not necessarily a island by a salvage helicopboat that is being rolled in the ter. By that time, tributes ocean. In a case like that, it is had been pa id to the v icpossible for a tether to trap someone underwater or cause a tims throughout the Bay Area. Bryan’s speech at Alan’s sailor to be crushed by the boat. Still, in retrospect, Bryan memorial captured the special relationship he had with his states that “it’s obvious to me now that I should have been friend, their late nights spent together, his intriguing way clipped into the boat at every possible opportunity.” As a of talking, and included the poignant amalgam of old Irish result of the U.S. Sailing report, a new organizing body called poems that Alan had read at Bryan’s wedding. the NorCal Ocean Racing Council has been formed to develop Bryan, who took several months off to travel with his new safety guidelines for races in Northern California. wife and newborn son following the accident, has been on

Christine Weaver/norcalsailing.com

big mistake, until he processed the fact that Nick was calling him from an ambulance on the way to the emergency room. Simultaneous with the rescue of Bryan, Nick and Jay, the Coast Guard mounted a massive search for survivors that involved three cutters, a 47-foot motor lifeboat, three helicopters and a C-130 aircraft. Finally, on Sunday night, after spending 30 hours scouring the 50-degree currents and jagged rocks over 5,000 square miles of ocean, the Coast Guard called off its search for Jordan, Elmer, Alan and Alex, stating that the “window of survivability” had closed. The four sailors seemed to have simply vanished beneath the waves.

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Two remarkable women have endured the agony of losing their children: for Anne Kasanin, her firstborn son, and for Lori, her only child. Both mothers experienced the conflicting emotions of having their boys finally come home to them — Marc that day, Jordan nearly two weeks later. “I would have hated to have Marc not found,” Anne says. She sent a note to Lori after Jordan’s body was discovered, writing that she hoped Jordan’s recovery had provided, while not closure, perhaps at least some measure of peace. Months have passed since the accident, but from the deck of the SFYC, it is still possible to look up and see, in a sort of modern-day widow’s watch, Anne pacing across the deck of her home, gazing out over the expanse of water that claimed the life of her son. m

A man plays the bagpipe aboard the Farallon during the flotilla honoring the wreck victims.

Photo Credit

Those Left Behind In the end, Low Speed Chase lost the two men from Ireland, the only woman on board and two local sailors whose deaths have left a yawning chasm in their mothers’ souls. “I never thought that the thing that brought Jordan so much joy would take his life,” Lori Fromm says. While Jordan and Marc’s time was ended far too soon, their lives were truly lived — good lives, in every sense of that phrase — marked by painting and building and sailing and racing and friends and predominantly, family. They had a reach. Last spring, Dominican University posthumously awarded Jordan his college degree. His parents have established a scholarship at the university in his name to provide opportunities for disadvantaged students (see dominican.edu/about/giving and click on the Jordan A. Fromm Memorial Scholarship Fund link).

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Through the

Looking Glass Marin’s iconic images as you’ve never seen them before.

I Photo Credit

Story and photos by Ben Davidson

’ve a lways loved selective focus photographs. In an instant, the technique can add a miniaturized, almost storybook feel to certain scenes or subjects. The effect makes objects look like small-scale “toyland” replicas, as if you’re viewing them up close on your hands and knees. I’ve used tilt-shift lenses and a medium-format Hasselblad Flexbody film camera to create selective focus images before, but I shot these images of Marin landmarks and landscapes using a higher-end digital point-and-shoot camera with an excellent lens and a miniature effect setting. I look for subjects that translate well to the look: classic buildings, cars and landmarks and vintage icons like Mill Valley’s turn-of-the-century Mount Tamalpais gravity train or the art deco–era towers of the Golden Gate Bridge. When it works, it’s like having a magic wand in the palm of your hand.

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When it works, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like having a magic wand in the palm of your hand.

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Opening spread: A late afternoon view of the fogkissed Golden Gate Bridge from Battery Spencer in the Marin Headlands. Clockwise from far left: The Bottle House at Marin Art and Garden Center; a replica (in Mill Valley) representing one of the 32 gravity-powered cars operated by the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway from 1896â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1929; a gazebo, also at MAGC.

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Clockwise from top left: An ornate fountain in Sausalitoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Plaza ViĂąa del Mar designed for the 1915 PanamaPacific Exposition; a vintage truck at Nicasio Land Company; Mount Tamalpais from the Worn Springs fire road.

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Clockwise from far left: The glowing steel sails of Tiburonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Coming About sculpture; a 172-foot gold spire punctuates the Frank Lloyd Wrightâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; designed Marin County Civic Center in San Rafael; horses in a field outside Nicasio; Corinthian Island hugs the shore of the Tiburon Peninsula.

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Destinations / tktktktk

The New

Environmentalists

Photo Credit

Local Goldman Prize filmmakers travel the world. Edited by Mimi Towle

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or nea rly 25 years, the Goldman Environmental Prize, founded by Richard and

Photo Credit

Rhoda Goldman, has honored one environmental activist each from Asia, Africa, North America, South America, Europe and the island nations. In an annual ceremony at the San Francisco Opera House, the six recipients — in recognition of their courage, creativity and drive — individually receive $150,000, which is typically spent to further their causes. For the past decade, John Antonelli, Will Parrinello and Tom Dusenbery of the Mill Valley Film Group, currently working out of a modest houseboat in Sausalito, have been commissioned to travel to the winners’ homelands to document their stories. The filmmakers feel somewhat like prizewinners themselves each November as they gather their gear to head out to another far-flung corner of the world. Although the team members wouldn’t trade their good fortune for anything, there are some rather daunting challenges to the assignments. Antonelli more than once has had to enter an African country as a tourist in order to film a subject the government didn’t approve of and then smuggle the raw footage out of the country. Parrinello contracted dengue fever in Argentina this year, and Andy Black, one of their trusted directors of photography, caught malaria. Two years ago, Dusenbery, his crew and equipment got stuck in Russian customs for several days trying to get onto Sakhalin Island and had to trek across the frozen tundra in subzero weather to film their subject. This year Dusenbery wanted no part of the Russia story.

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Opposite page: Sofia Gatica in the GMO soy fields of Argentina. This page: The 2012 prizewinners at the San Francisco Opera House. Inset: The Goldmans. m a r i n n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 57

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Each member of the trio spends about a week on the ground in a location, then heads back home to edit the story and prep the next one. It all works in kind of a tag-team fashion. When one returns, another leaves. “It’s a gross understatement to say that the stories deserve much more than a week of shooting, and the final pieces, which are under four minutes, could easily be much longer,” Antonelli says. Prizewinners share “an unbridled optimism about the work they are doing and have made sacrifices that are unthinkable to most of us,” he adds. “They are engaged in their cause purely for their love of the planet and their drive to leave a better place than they were born into.” The complete series of some 60 short documentaries is called The New Environmentalists. Hosted by Robert Redford and shown annually on KQED TV, it has won three regional Emmy Awards. The following are first-person accounts from filmmakers describing how their subjects were able to make impacts in the areas where they live.

Left to right: Filmmakers Tom Dusenbery, Will Parrinello and John Antonelli

At first glance Evgenia Chirikova, a well-educated Russian mother, seems an unlikely environmental activist. She and her husband, Mikhail, ran a successful engineering firm in Moscow. But they wanted to give their young daughters a better life, so they moved the family to Moscow’s northern suburb of Khimki to be near the forest. When Chirikova discovered that the government planned to route the Moscow–St. Petersburg highway through the old-growth Khimki forest, destroying it in the process, her life changed forever. “At first we thought it was some kind of a mix-up. We were politically naive,” she says. “We said, ‘If we simply write to Putin he will fix this problem.’ ” Utilizing social media, Chirikova organized protests in the forest. She and other activists threw themselves in front of bulldozers to defend the trees, often getting injured and arrested in the process. The movement peaked in 2010 when 5,000 people attended a rally in Moscow’s Pushkin Square, the largest environmental protest in Russian history. This led to President Dmitry Medvedev’s announcement that he would halt construction of the highway and instead study alternate routes. While Medvedev ultimately reinstated the highway’s construction, some environmental concessions were made. More important, the huge rally was the beginning of what has become a broader popular movement to fight corruption in Russian politics.

As a mother, Evgenia Chirikova cannot, under Russian law, be subjected to administrative arrest or jailed for longer than three hours.

all photos courtesy of the goldman environmental prize, except tim porter (above), Anton Belitsky (below)

Russia: Parrinello

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Alaska: Dusenbery

Argentina: Parrinello

GMO soy fields surround Sofia Gatica’s barrio in Córdoba, Argentina. The crop has become the economic engine driving Argentina’s boom. But there’s a high cost for Argentina’s poor, who are exposed to dangerous levels of the agrochemicals used to grow the genetically modified soy. Crop dusters spray the soy fields near Ituzaingó, Gatica’s neighborhood, with thousands of gallons of Monsanto’s Roundup product. When she discovered the death of her infant daughter was due to pesticide poisoning, she went door-to-door and organized the Mothers of Ituzaingó, who launched a “Stop Spraying” campaign. The mothers led demonstrations and published materials warning the public about the dangers of agrochemicals. After 10 long years, the president ordered the minister of health to investigate the effects of pesticide use in Ituzaingó. A definitive study by the Department of Medicine at Buenos Aires University linked glyphosate, the key ingredient in Monsanto’s Roundup, to birth defects in amphibians. The doses used in the study were far lower than those the residents of Ituzaingó were exposed to. As a result, Gatica and the mothers were able to get a municipal ordinance passed prohibiting aerial spraying at distances of less than 2,500 meters from their homes. In an unprecedented victory, a 2010 ruling from the country’s supreme court not only banned agrochemical spraying near populated areas, but also reversed the burden of proof — instead of residents proving that spraying causes harm, the government and soy producers must now prove the chemicals are safe.

From San Francisco, no fewer than four flights on progressively smaller airplanes carried me and my crew to Tikigaq, better known as Point Hope. The single paved runway stood out like a black line in a sea of white ice and snow as we made our final approach. Remnants of sod huts and whale bones left over from ancient gatherings punctuated the landscape on either side of us. Around 700 people call this rugged settlement home. For hundreds, perhaps thousands of years, hearty and determined native Inupiat Alaskans have lived off the Arctic Sea. But recent efforts to open up the Chukchi Sea to oil exploration and drilling have put the land, the people and the biodiversity of the region in grave danger. Not only would a spill or leak like the one in the Gulf of Mexico be disastrous to the area, but getting to the site in the long, dark winter would be nearly impossible. The U.S. Coast Guard itself admits that no feasible plan to do so even exists. Caroline Cannon was tagged by community elders to spearhead efforts to stop any future plans to drill or any new leases by the federal government. They told her, “It’s your job to save our land and the ocean, which is our garden.” With those orders in hand and heart, she has led a determined fight from her coastal home, taking her to law offices in Anchorage and finally to the halls of Congress in Washington. Above: Sophia Gatica organizes concerned mothers in Argentina. This photo: Caroline Cannon’s people chose her to lead the fight against oil drilling.

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The Philippines: Dusenbery

When I met up with Rev. Edwin “Edu” Gariguez in Manila, we began our journey by car south to the industrial port of Batangas. From there, a threehour ferry trip took us past a mere sampling of the Philippines’ more than 7,000 islands, then to our final destination of Mindoro. It is a genuine tropical paradise whose indigenous peoples, fisheries, agriculture, water supply and rain forests had been endangered by a proposed nickel mine. The eventual salvation of this island had culminated in one final desperate push by Gariguez and his supporters in the form of a 12-day hunger strike, back where our trip had begun, at the front door of the nation’s environmental agency. The government finally relented by denying mining permits on Mindoro. A rare combination of tenacious determination and bravery tempered by a pure love of and devotion to those of lesser means made Gariguez not only a success in his struggle to stop the mine, but also a hero among many on the island.

Kenya: Antonelli

In February, I traveled to Africa to produce the story about the prizewinner in Kenya. Ikal Angelei, a 31-yearold Turkana native, was fighting to stop a massive dam from being built in Ethiopia that would severely impact Lake Turkana, the largest desert lake on the planet. Kenya-born, U.S.–educated Angelei was elated about several important victories she had recently achieved that seemed to at least slow down the $60 billion dam. Due to efforts made by the group she formed, Friends of Lake Turkana, the African Development Bank withdrew its money from the project, the Kenyan Parliament (her dad had been a member years ago) decided to stall its support of the project and UNESCO declared Lake Turkana a World Heritage site. Once I set foot over there, the gravity of the situation was shockingly clear. The lake is massive and it is the lifeblood of the indigenous people who live near it. Other than the lake, the entire region is a parched, brittle, unrelenting landscape. Without the vital water source, the native people feel they will have no chance to survive. Despite Angelei’s triumphs, the dam is currently under construction and Angelei is still fighting the fight.

Top: It took a hunger strike for Edwin Gariguez to stop the planned nickel mine on his island. Bottom: Ikal Angelei continues to fight efforts to build a dam in Ethiopia.

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China: Antonelli

Ma Jun is the man behind the website that mobilized millions of his fellow Chinese residents to influence companies like Apple to clean up their supply chain, which has severely polluted waterways and air quality. What is so impressive about Jun is his ability to work with the government. Through IPE (Institute for Public and Institutional Affairs), he set up a web-based interactive water pollution map giving people access to information not only about how polluted their water is, but where the toxins are coming from. His main source for the data is the Chinese government. He equipped the population with the information they needed to participate in putting pressure on international corporations like Walmart, Nike and Apple to clean up their acts. While we were in China shooting the piece, the story about Appleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s toxic supply chain was hitting the media here in the United States. A news story broke about one of Appleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major suppliers, Foxconn, reporting that employees were committing suicide due to the dismal working conditions in the massive factory. For the next two months, while we were editing, the story began to build until virtually every major news outlet was reporting on the issue. Coverage hit a high point when The Daily Show did a piece about Foxconn. As each new story broke in the media, I was acutely aware that Jun was the pebble in the lake that caused ripples across the entire planet.

This page: Ma Jun created a website that gave millions of his fellow Chinese residents valuable environmental information.

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THE ROAD TO HĀNA CAN BE SHORTER. FLIGHT FROM MAUI'S KAHULUI TO HĀNA INCLUDED WITH SELECT PACKAGES.

FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO EARN THEIR UMBRELLA DRINKS.

tr av a a sa .co m ADV EN T U R E / C U L I N ARY / C U LT U R E / F I T N E S S / S PA & W E L L N E S S

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Destinations

t h e l at e st lo c a l t r av e l d e a l s a n d g e taways plu s j o u r n e ys a ro u n d t h e g lo b e Sandy Lane, the location of the 2003 Petra Nemcova shoot.

beautiful beaches

Around the world with a Sports Illustrated swimsuit writer. By mimi towle

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Destinations / go

or some of us, autumn’s brisk

arrival brings wistful fantasies of distant beaches where summer is year-round. One guy who gets to go to such places is Austin Murphy, a San Rafael–based Sports Illustrated senior writer in his 29th year at that magazine. Murphy’s beats over the years have included college football and the NFL, hockey, cycling, adventure sports, the Olympics and, oh yes, the SI swimsuit issue. We recently sat down with Murphy to draw him out on that rough duty.

of my three brothers and me. My point was, “Mom, if these urges are so impure, how come so many of us have them?” What was your most memorable swimsuit assignment? By ’99 we’d seen Cheryl’s, umm, mesh; we’d seen string bikinis and thongs; we’d seen hapless models missing their tops forced to cover themselves with their hands. How else to, umm, titillate? The new frontier was body paint. In 1999 I was dispatched to Richard Branson’s private island — he’d built a sybaritic Balinese villa that now rents for $54,000 a day — to chronicle the body-painting of the naked supermodels, including Rebecca Romijn, Heidi Klum and Yamila Diaz.

Also in the house was Joanne Gair, the Botticelli of body-painting — she’d painted a business suit on Demi Moore for Vanity Fair. It was my job to write about the process as she decorated supermodels. It was a delicate balance, standing around with a notebook, posing questions to goddesses in their birthday suits while trying very hard to not creep them out. Once they began to think of the paint as a layer of clothing — which I encouraged — they became comfortable with my presence, and my victory was total. Do you strike up friendships with the models? It’s such a small crew that, yes, we all end up working and playing and taking meals together. You do make friends. The vast

tim porter

Give us a brief history of the issue. Well, SI was founded in 1954. A decade later, as an antidote to the post-NFL editorial doldrums of February, managing editor Andre Leguerre asked an editor named Jule Campbell to find a beautiful model, and we’d put her on the cover in a swimsuit. In the intervening decades the suits have gotten smaller, while the “attributes” of the models have gotten bigger, as my former colleague Walt Bingham has noted. The swimsuit issue has evolved into a kind of 800-pound gorilla in a halterkini, throwing off tens of millions in ad sales, DVDs, calendars and its own TV special. As racy some of the shots are (“Oh, look, I’m here at the surf’s edge and my top came off! How could this have happened?”), they’re pretty tame compared to what people are two clicks away from on the Internet. But in the ’70s the swimsuit issue still had the power to scandalize, which happened with the famous ’78 shot of Cheryl Tiegs under a waterfall in a mesh top that ... left less to the imagination than any picture SI had ever run. I was one of eight children in a traditional Irish Catholic family. My mother didn’t cancel our subscription, like several hundred other outraged Americans, although she did take a pair of scissors to the issue, to the dismay 64 n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 m a r i n

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Opposite: Austin Murphy inspects his work. This page, clockwise from top: Turtle Inn; the Grand Wailea Resort; Te Tiara Beach Resort.

majority of the models I’ve met have been very friendly and really bright. I remember treading water in the deep end of the pool at Necker Island, talking to Heidi about the Brandenburg Gate and the fall of the Berlin Wall. She was floating on an inflatable crocodile like Cleopatra on the Nile, the only difference being I think Cleopatra was wearing a top. I must have appeared to be out of breath or something, because at one point Heidi made this generous offer: “Austin, do you want my crocodile?” I demurred. Chatting with Diaz at lunch that day, I learned that she was from Argentina. Eager to display my command of current events, I asked about the volatile currency in her native

country, which had lately been in the news. “Maybe you mean the Brazilian currency,” replied Yamila, who studied economics at the University of Buenos Aires. “The currency in Argentina is fairly stable.” What was the most opulent resort you’ve stayed at? That would be Sandy Lane in Barbados. In happier times, Tiger Woods took the whole place over for his wedding to Elin Nordegren. I recall being met at the airport by a resort employee who ushered us through customs, then handed us off to another who drove us in a Bentley to the hotel, where we were greeted by still more staff bearing chilled washcloths and daiquiris.

At one point my ex-wife, Laura, attempted to plant an umbrella in the sand ... by herself. An attendant strode urgently toward her. “Here at Sandy Lane,” he said, taking over the task, “you don’t have to do anything for yourself.” Which is was not exactly true. I served myself prawns at the lunch buffet, and was vaguely surprised that no liveried attendant came sprinting across the dining room to help me peel them. The cold reality dawned: I was on my own. Sandy Lane had a couple of Tom Fazio– designed golf courses, but I spent most of my time on the beach, swimming out to a distant floating dock. Swimming back in, I thought of Aristotle Onassis, who according to hotel lore was rowed ashore from his yacht while Maria m a r i n n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 65

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Destinations / go

Callas breaststroked alongside, a pet marmoset on her back. The rich are different from you and me. At all these resorts, there comes the moment of leave-taking, where the nice employees trill, “Come see us again.” And I smile and think, the only way I’ll ever get back to this place is if I’m reincarnated as a gecko. No offense, but it doesn’t sound like your work on these islands is ever especially taxing, if it can be described as work at all. You think? The deal with writing for the swimsuit issue is, you can’t keep it short enough. The hierarchy on the island is this: the photographer is god. The hair and makeup people are demigods. The models are goddesses. The writer ranks somewhere below the busboys. This point was hilariously underscored by my friend Steve Rushin in his self-deprecating masterpiece in the ’97 swimsuit issue, “I, Cabana Boy.” Tell us the difference between a model and a supermodel. Funny, I once posed that exact question to then–swimsuit editor Diane Smith. She answered as if it was obvious: “Well, I only work with supermodels.” Which was her way of saying, once you’re in the swimsuit issue, you’re a supermodel. Congratulations. What was your last swimsuit assignment? That’s confidential. The editors insist that

The Moorings Village

we keep our shooting locales a secret until the issue lands. I can tell you that the journey entailed crossing the international dateline, then a small plane, followed by a yacht trip, followed by a five-minute journey on one of those little shopping mall choo-choo trains to the reception area. If you tell us more, will you have to kill us? No, but I’d run the risk of getting no more of these assignments, which would be infinitely worse. m

Super Getaways

Want to retrace the steps of the Sports Illustrated crew? Grab a bikini (or board shorts) and book that plane. CALIN VAN PARIS Grand Wailea Resort, grandwailea.com

Te Tiara Beach Resort, tetiarebeachresort.com

Turtle Inn, coppola resorts.com/turtleinn

The Moorings Village, themooringsvillage.com

Sandy Lane, sandylane.com

Necker Island, neckerisland.virgin.com

Where

Maui, Hawaii

Huahine, Tahiti

Belize

Islamorada, Florida

Barbados

British Virgin Islands

Distance from SFO

2,400 miles

4,200 miles

2,400 miles

2,601 miles

4,193 miles

3,707 miles

cover model/ issue

Irina Shayk, 2011

Veronica Varekova, Elle Macpherson, Rebecca Romijn, Rachael Hunter, Daniela Pestova, Elsa Benitez, Carolyn Murphy and Yamila Diaz, 2006

Carolyn Murphy, 2005

Veronica Varekova, 2004

Petra Nemcova, 2003

Rebecca Romijn, 1999 tim porter (bottom)

Venue

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Destinations / travel buzz

Napa in November

We’ve found everything you need to rejuvenate in Napa Valley this month. From culinary to cultural, here are three suggestions for an early winter escape. SOPHIE SHULMAN Spa Villagio is

debuting new treatments this season, notably the Skin Quencher — a “mimosa immersion” scrub and wrap featuring champagne grapes and raw sugarcane. The 13,000-square-foot spa has separate men’s and women’s wings and a design that blends Mediterranean and classic wine country touches. villagio.com

Five Days of Flavor, a celebra-

tion of wine and food, runs November 14–18 at St. Helena’s newly renovated Harvest Inn. Celebrity chefs from the Culinary Institute of America will conduct seminars, workshops and tastings, and the inn is offering a two-night package that includes accommodations, breakfast, goodie basket, cookbook and wine tasting for two. flavornapavalley. com, harvestinn.com

SOMM, a documentary about the intense challenge of preparing for the Master Sommelier exam, premieres at the second annual Napa Valley Film Festival on Wednesday, November 7. The film follows four students getting ready to take a test with one of the lowest pass rates around. napa valleyfilmfest.org The tubs at Spa Villagio

Sometimes it’s the little, unassuming moments

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Aston Mahana at Kaanapali

AstonHotels.com

FINAL AH 78-146-12 Father/Son Surfboard Marin Magazine 1/2 Pg, H, 7.875" x 4.75" 4C, Non-Bleed (Nov’12) m a r i n n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 67

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Celebrating Fifty Years Cynthia Lucas

Artistic Director

Nutcracker

Saturday & Sunday, December 8 & 9, 2012 One Weekend Only ~ Marin Veteransâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Memorial Auditorium Tickets: 415.473.6800 ~ tickets.marincenter.org

visit marinballetblog.com for anniversary/alumni events & information

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Out & About C A L E N DA R / o n T H E S CE N E / D I N E

eat this now

The Lion King at Orpheum Theatre, S.F.

Theater

The Lion King joan marcus

listing on page 70

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Calendar

ed i ted by S op h i e S h u l m a n

NOV 9–DEC 23 The White Snake A classic romance from Chinese legend about a bride who must reveal her magical powers to save her love. Roda Theatre (Berkeley). 510.647.2949, berkeleyrep.org NOV 15–DEC 16 You Can’t Take It With You An off-the-wall comedy by George Kaufman and Moss Hart. Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com NOV 23–DEC 16 It’s a Wonderful Life: A Live Radio Play Set in the 1940s. George Bailey learns that “no man is a failure who has friends.” Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org NOV 24–DEC 15 A Christmas Carol Charles Dickens’ classic with music by Andrew Klein and Blanca Florido. Novato Theater Company Playhouse (Novato). novato theatercompany.org

Music NOV 3 Alison Levy’s Big Time Tot Rock The popular children’s performer plays favorite songs from her album World of Wonder with the Tot Rock band. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org THEATER Thru NOV 11 An Iliad An ancient tale filled with wit and wisdom, adapted from Homer. Thrust Stage (Berkeley). 510.647.2949, berkeleyrep.org

Thru NOV 11 Nunsense A musical comedy about a convent cook accidentally poisoning several little sisters of Hoboken. Novato Theater Company Playhouse (Novato). novato theatercompany.org NOV 1–3 Carmelina 42nd Street Moon’s rendition of the comedy

about an Italian widow and three American soldiers. Eureka Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org NOV 1–JAN 13 The Lion King The popular classic returns, featuring a score by Elton John and Tim Rice.

Orpheum Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com NOV 9–11, 16, 18 Legally Blonde The Marin Youth Performers present a family production of a comedy about Elle Woods’ law degree pursuit. 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

NOV 27–DEC 30 The Book of Mormon A performance featuring lyrics by the four-time Emmy Award–winning creators of South Park. Curran Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, shnsf.com NOV 28–DEC 16 Pal Joey The story of Joey Evans’ climb to the top of the nightclub business, starring wellknown Bay Area actress

Deborah Del Mastro. Eureka Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org

Comedy Tuesdays Mark Pitta and Friends A favorite comedy event. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

MUSIC Tuesdays Swing Fever The band pays tribute to jazz artists and composers with selections from its roster of more than 1,000 tunes, every first and third Tuesday. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com NOV 3 Grace Potter and the Nocturnals The American rock band performs songs from its self-produced albums. Fox Theater (Oakland). 510.302.2250, apeconcerts.com NOV 7 Asia Featuring bassist/vocalist John Wetton, guitarist Steve Howe, keyboardist Geoff Downes and drummer Carl Palmer. The Regency Ballroom (SF). 888.929.7849, goldenvoice.com NOV 8–11 The 13th Annual San Francisco World Music Festival A celebration of music from around the world with performances by musicians from Azerbaijan, India, Korea, Tibet, Spain, Italy and China. Jewish

Danny Plotnick

T h e at e r / Co m e dy / M u s i c / G a l l e r i e s / M u s e u m s / E v e n t s / F ILM

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Community Center (SF). 415.292.1233, sfworldmusic festival.org NOV 9–11 Music from the Nordic Circle Mill Valley Philharmonic presents music from Finland, Norway, Estonia, Denmark and Iceland. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). mill valleyphilharmonic.org

courtesey of the walt disney museum

NOV 10 Steve Winwood The award-winning English songwriter and musician rocks out with a blues and R&B flair. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, goldenvoice.com NOV 16–18 New Frequencies Fest 2012 A mini-festival of music from around the world. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org NOV 17 Fairfax Indie Festival Bill Hansell presents Allen Clapp and his Orchestra, the Hollyhocks, the Corner Laughers and

San Francisco Ballet in Tomasson’s Nutcracker (© Erik Tomasson)

Drawings at the Walt Disney Museum, S.F.

William Cleere and the Marvellous Fellas. Sleeping Lady (Fairfax). 415.485.1182, sleeping ladyfairfax.com NOV 18 Takacs Quartet with MarcAndre Hamelin One of only two quartets in Gramophone magazine’s Hall of Fame, Takacs Quartet performs with pianist MarcAndrew Hamelin. Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.392.2545, sfperformances.org NOV 19 Rachael Yamagata The soulful singer/songwriter performs. The Independent (SF). 415.771.1421, theindependentsf.com NOV 27 Alice Cooper The revolutionary rock 'n’ roll artist comes back to San Francisco. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, goldenvoice.com

DECEMBER 7–28 ORDER EARLY FOR BEST SEATS AND SAVINGS!

Call or click today! 415.865.2000 or sfballet.org GET THE V.I.P. TREATMENT Enjoy SF Ballet’s most exclusive holiday experience! The best seats in the house, a private reception, gifts for the children, and more! Learn more at sfballet.org/vipclub.

NUTCRACKER LEAD SPONSORS:

NUTCRACKER SPONSORS:

The Herbert Family The Swanson Foundation

Yurie and Carl Pascarella Kathleen Scutchfield The Smelick Family

NUTCRACKER MEDIA SPONSORS:

OFFICIAL BAKERY OF NUTCRACKER:

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Out & About / calendar

• NOV 9 Ballet Folklorico Traditional Mexican music, dance and costumes. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org

NOV 30 Yellowcard Rock out with the pop punk/alternative rock band. The Fillmore (SF). 415.346.6000, thefillmore.com

GALLERIES MARIN Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Oil paintings by Gabriella Spina Drake and classes for artists. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com Bubble Street Featuring genres of fantastic art, imaginary realism, neoVictorian and steam punk. 565 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.339.0506 Falkirk Cultural Center Falkirk’s 100 Annual auction preview exhibition featuring 100 small artworks by Marin artists, November 17–December 14. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3436, falkirkculturalcenter.org Fine Art Etc. Featuring a collection of sculptures and paintings by artists from Northern

California and around the world. 686 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1107, fineartetc.com Gallery Bergelli A Moment in Flight Art by Greg Ragland, through November 21. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, bergelli.com Gallery Route One Wild Book Show Benefiting GRO’s Artists in the Schools program, November 16–December 23. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org Marin Society of Artists 85 Years A nonjuried member show celebrating the MSA’s 85th anniversary, through December 10. 3501 Civic Center Dr, San Rafael. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org Mona Lease Gallery Sculpture by Deborah Childress and art by gallery artists, through December. 39 Greenbrae Boardwalk, Greenbrae. 415.461.3718, monalease.net

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Marin A multimedia juried show. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org Robert Allen Fine Art Transitional Landscapes A group exhibition of works on canvas and paper. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robertallenfineart.com Robert Green Fine Arts American Masters Group exhibition by gallery painters Sam Francis, John Grillo, Paul Jenkins and Gustavo Rivera. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfinearts.com Rock Hill Gallery Scenes Near and Far A landscape-themed show presented by the Marin County Watercolor Society, through November 28. 145 Rockhill Dr, Tiburon. 415.435.9108, ccctiburon.net

Smith Andersen North Art by Charles Wong and Irene Poon Andersen, through November 17. 20 Greenfield Ave, San Anselmo. 415.455.9733, smithandersen north.com Studio 333 Ongoing exhibition featuring more than 40 Bay Area artists’ work in different mediums. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info Studio 4 Art Work by local artists; classes and workshops with materials included. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net

San Francisco ArtHaus Candid Moments New encaustic paintings by Jhina Alvarado, through December 22. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Berggruen Gallery Art by Tom McKinley. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Caldwell Snyder Art by Jupp Linssen and Willi Siber. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com Gregory Lind Gallery Art by Jim Gaylord, through December 22. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com Katz Snyder Gallery La Habana A photographic exhibit representing the architecture, people and details of Jewish life in modern Cuba, through November 17. 3200 California St, 415.292.1200, jccsf.org

Rena Bransten Gallery Photographs from pictures of magazines by Vik Muniz, through November 10. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, rena branstengallery.com

MUSEUMS MARIN Bolinas Museum Reflections from The Lake Art by Morris Graves and Kay Russel (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org Marin History Museum Justice and Judgment Three-part exhibition about Marin’s law enforcement and judicial system, through June 2013 (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org Marin Museum of the American Indian Explore Native American history, languages, art and traditions (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com

Meyerovich I Am Not Done with My Changes Art by Matt Phillips in celebration of his 85th birthday, through November 29. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com Mishin Fine Arts Gallery Celebrating Women in Art Featuring works from six artists from around the world, through November 24. 445A Sutter St, 415.391.6100, mishingallery.com

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BAY AREA California Academy of Sciences Nightlife Enjoy music, creatures and cocktails for adults only and take some time to explore the exhibits and aquarium displays every Thursday night (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org Chinese Historical Society of America Remnants: Artists Respond to the Chinese American Experience Works from five artists that highlight personal narrative, memory and family, through December 15 (SF). 415.391.1188, chsa.org Conservatory of Flowers Boomtown: The Barbary Coast A garden railway exhibition

celebrating San Francisco’s Gold Rush boomtown era and Barbary Coast neighborhood, November 16–April 14, 2013 (SF). 415.831.2090, conserv atoryofflowers.org Contemporary Jewish Museum The Radical Camera: New York’s Photo League, 1936–1951 An exhibit exploring New York’s Photo League’s history, artistic significance and culture, through January 21, 2013 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org de Young The William S. Paley Collection: A Taste for Modernism Paintings, sculpture and drawings from the late 19th century through the early 1970s, through December 30 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

Holiday Concerts by Candlelight

PREVIEW To the Mothers of Brazil: Salve Regina – Jansson/Eriksson Lo! How a Rose E’er Blooming – Distler Cloth of Glory – Brunner There Is No Rose of Such Virtue – Caracciolo A Savior from on High – Paulus Two John Rutter Carols Two Medieval Carol Settings

SATURDAY DECEMBER 1 7:30 PM & SUNDAY DECEMBER 2 4:00 PM

PHOTO © ERIC BRANDON

Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Legends of the Bay Area Art by David Maxim, through November 18 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org

Share the glow with us! Start your holiday season off with a favorite tradition when our community gathers in the Church of Saint Raphael in San Rafael. Add your voice to the celebration and sing along with our Marin Symphony Chamber Chorus directed by Steven McKersie. Holiday Concert tickets: $25 in advance, $30 at the door Purchase online at marinsymphony.org, or by phone: 415.479.8100 Concert sponsor: Marin Pacific Company, Inc.

Where great music comes to life.

Natural Phenomena #101 by William Leidenthal at Robert Allen Fine Art

marinsymphony.org • 415.479.8100 • facebook.com/marinsymphony msym_mmag_holiday_nov12_A.indd 1

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Out & About / calendar coinage, sculptures, antiques and textiles, reflecting the 2012 Summer Olympic Games, through January 27, 2013 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org Museum of the African Diaspora Exhibitions that blend art and innovative technology with the African tradition of storytelling are the focus at this unique museum (SF). 415.358.7200, moadsf.org Oakland Museum of California Ken and Melanie Light: Valley of Shadows and Dreams Featuring 31 black-andwhite photographs of California’s Central

Winter Whites by Sally Robertson at the Bolinas–Stinson Beach Open Studios

Exploratorium Ongoing interactive exhibits exploring science, art

and human perception (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu

Legion of Honor Gifts from the Gods: Art and the Olympic Ideal Featuring ancient T:7.875” Greek and Roman

we are all marine mammals

Valley, through December 31 (Oakland). 510.318.8400, museumca.org San Francisco Museum of Craft and Folk Art Fiber Futures: Japan’s Textile Pioneers Featuring art melding Japanese artisanal and industrial textile-making, through December 29 (SF). 415.227.4888, mocfa.org SFMOMA Six Lines of Flight: Shifting Geographies in Contemporary Art An exhibit by artists from six cities around the world, through December 31 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

The Walt Disney Family Museum Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs: The Creation of a Classic Featuring more than 200 works of conceptual art, model sheets, layouts and animations, through April 14, 2013 (SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

EVENTS Thru NOV 4 SF Open Studios Explore studios all over the city and see work from more than 900 artists. Various locations (SF). 415.861.9838, artspan.org NOV 3 Celebrating 100 Years of Mountain Play Music A reception with drinks, gourmet tapas-style cuisine, an auction and a two-act

Life saved by volunteers

Life changed by volunteering

fig. 5

fig. 2

Nose produces deep, loud roar fig. 3

5 grandkids fig. 1

5O grand - pups fig. 4

T:4.75”

Visit with your coastal cousins. We share a lot with our coastal cousins. In fact, ocean and marine mammal health teaches us volumes about our own. Visit us today for a life-changing introduction to your not-so-distant relatives.

MarineMammalCenter.org/visit

Ducis Docens (Volunteer Docent)

Mirounga Angustirostris (Northern Elephant Seal)

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Sudha Pennathur to benefit Bread & Roses and Angel Island Conservancy. Town Center (Corte Madera). pennathur.com

• NOV 17 Wilson Phillips The four-time-Grammy-nominated group performs songs from its new album. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

Broadway revue. Marin Osher JCC (San Rafael). 415.383.1100, mountainplay.org

NOV 3 Hospice by the Bay’s Annual Ball A celebration benefiting programs and community care efforts. Marin Center Exhibit

An active, yet relaxed lifestyle permeates through every Member and aspect of Marin Country Club. Located in the tranquil Ignacio Valley, the illustrious clubhouse sets the scene for an impeccably groomed 18-hole championship golf course. Collaborating with the challenging course to enhance the lifestyle, recreational facilities include: four lit, plexi-cushion tennis courts; a fully equipped fitness center; and a family focused aquatic facility–with programs for children and adults alike. Enjoy numerous, year-round social activities for the opportunity to create lasting family memories and lifelong friendships.

Hall (San Rafael). 415.526.5580, hbtb.org NOV 3 Jewel Ball Reception, dinner and dancing to

benefit the Lucile Packard Children’s Hospital at Stanford. Fairmont Hotel (SF). 650.245.3060, sfjewelball.org

NOV 10 San Francisco Author Luncheon Listen to stories of best-selling authors such as Emma Donoghue and chef Hubert Keller, organized by the National Kidney Foundation. Marriott Marquis (SF). kidney.org

NOV 9–11, 17–18 Sudha Sale Thinks Globally, Acts Locally Purchase holiday home decor items designed by

NOV 11 San Francisco Fall Chocolate Salon Taste artisan, gourmet and premium chocolates and confections in time for the holidays. Fort Mason (SF). fallchocolatesalon.com

Experience the

Lifestyle

Contact the Membership Director at 415.382.6712 for information on our New Membership Programs.

415.382.6712 WWW.MARINCOUNTRYCLUB.COM

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Marin Country Club is proudly managed by Troon Privé.

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Out & About / calendar Art by Willi Siber at Caldwell Snyder

NOV 11 Veterans’ Day Music, military exercises and a brief address in honor of those who have served our country. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincounty.org NOV 15 Cirque du Soiree A fundraiser for UCSF Partners in Care benefiting patients and their families undergoing treatment at UCSF Medical Center and UCSF Benioff Children’s Hospital. Robert Fountain Studio (SF). 415.353.1366. NOV 16 Do Good Lab Gala Join philanthropists, corporations, start-ups and businesses from around the

Bay Area for an evening of cocktails, dinner and dancing for a cause. The City Club (SF). do-good-lab.org NOV 16 Halleck Creek Ranch Fundraiser Dinner, wine, music and a live auction in honor of legendary horse trainer Buck Brannaman. Rancho Nicasio (Nicasio). 415.662.2488, halleckcreekranch.org NOV 17 Festa Italiana Italian food, wine, entertainment and auctions to raise money for the Rotary Club of TiburonBelvedere. St. Stephen’s Church (Belvedere). 415.435.7386

NOV 17–18 San Francisco Vintners’ Market Showcase of top wineries and boutiques from Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Mendocino and more. Fort Mason (SF). fortmason.org NOV 18 Royal Drummers and Dancers of Burundi A percussion ensemble rooted in rituals and traditional techniques passed from father to son. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org NOV 23 Ghirardelli Square Tree Lighting Ceremony Family-friendly live entertainment during the day and the lighting of the tree at 5:30 p.m.

Ghirardelli Square (SF). ghirardellisq.com NOV 23 San Rafael Parade of Lights and Winter Wonderland Celebrate the holidays with arts and crafts, live entertainment, snow sledding and children’s activities. Fourth Street (San Rafael). 800.310.6563, sresproductions.com NOV 23–25 Bolinas– Stinson Beach Holiday Open Studios More than 25 artists working in different mediums, including painting, ceramics, sculpture and furniture. Various locations (Bolinas, Stinson Beach). 415.868.0784, coastalmarin artists.com

Celebrate the Holidays!

Buy one 1 mL syringe of Restylane-L or Perlane-L and get each additional syringe for $100 OFF. Call The Laser Center at 415-945-9314 to schedule a free consultation

Regular price per 1mL syringe is $500 for Restylane-L and $575 for Perlane-L. Advertised prices are for Restylane-L or Perlane-L only and do not include fees for additional services. Not valid with any other offer. Offer expires 12/31/2012.

The Laser Center of Marin Medical Group, Inc. Dr. Karron Power 770 Tamalpais Drive Suite 301 Corte Madera, CA 94925 www.marinlaser.com 415-945-9314

Important Safety Considerations for the Restylane Family of Products The Restylane family of products includes Restylane®, Restylane-L®, Perlane®, and Perlane-L®. These products can be used to add volume and fullness to the skin to correct moderate to severe facial wrinkles and folds, such as the lines from your nose to the corners of your mouth (nasolabial folds). Restylane may also be used for lip enhancement in patients over 21 years. Ask your doctor which is right for you.

Products in the Restylane family should not be used by people with previous bad allergies, particularly to microorganisms known as gram-positive bacteria, or by people with serious allergies to drugs that have previously required in-hospital treatment. These products should not be used by people with bleeding disorders. Products should not be injected anywhere except the skin, just under the skin (Perlane and Perlane-L only), or in the lips (Restylane only). Restylane-L and Perlane-L should not be used by anyone with a known allergy to lidocaine. Use at the site of skin sores, pimples, rashes, hives, cysts, or infection should be postponed until healing is complete. In these instances, product use could delay healing or make your skin problems worse. After treatment, you might have some swelling, redness, pain, bruising, or tenderness. These are typically mild in severity and normally last less than 7 days in nasolabial folds and less than 14 days in lips. Swelling may be more likely in patients under 36 years, and bruising may be more likely in patients over 35 years. Rarely, the doctor

may inject into a blood vessel, which can damage the skin. Although rare, red or swollen small bumps may occur. If you have had facial cold sores before, an injection can cause an outbreak. To avoid bruising and bleeding, you should not use the products if you have recently used drugs that thin your blood or prevent clotting. Products should not be used during pregnancy, when breastfeeding, or in patients under 18 years for nasolabial folds. Treatment volume should be limited to 6.0 mL in wrinkles and folds, such as nasolabial folds, and limited to 1.5 mL per lip (Restylane only), as greater amounts significantly increase moderate and severe injection site reactions. The safety or effectiveness of treatment in areas other than nasolabial folds and lips (Restylane only) has not been established in controlled clinical studies. The Restylane family of products is available only through a licensed practitioner. Complete product and safety information is available at www.RestylaneUSA.com.

Restylane, Restylane-L, Perlane, and Perlane-L are registered trademarks of HA North American Sales AB. (All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.) APB 11-025C 03/31/13

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film

Untitled (Brooklyn Bridge) by Alexander Alland at the Contemporary Jewish Museum, S.F.

Welfare Institute, discusses humancoyote coexistence in our community. The Outdoor Art Club (Mill Valley). 415.383.2582, theoutdoorartclub.org

Thru NOV 10 Italian Film Festival Popular films depicting Italian culture. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org

NOV 5 Cheryl Strayed The author of Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail discusses her brave journey. Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, cityarts.net

NOV 7–11 Napa Valley Film Festival A five-day celebration of film, artisan food and boutique wines, starting with the world premiere of the widely anticipated documentary SOMM. Various locations (Napa). napavalley filmfestival.org

NOV 5, 8 Douglas Brinkley The Rice University professor gives his perspective on the state of our society in light of the upcoming presidential election. Marin Veterans' Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 650.340.7004, speakerseries.net

nature walks & talks NOV 23–DEC 23 The Great Dickens Christmas Fair and Victorian Holiday Party

Feasting, dancing, shopping and performances in a lamplit city built like Charles

Dickens’ London. The Cow Palace (SF). 800.510.1558, dickensfair.com

NOV 1 Coyotes in our Midst Camilla Fox, wildlife consultant with the Animal

NOV 10 WildCare Family Adventures Birding at Stafford Lake Search for waterfowl and birds while strolling along Stafford Lake. 415.453.1000, wildcarebayarea.org NOV 14 Marin Scuba Club Art Haseltine and Virginia Bria discuss their experiences exploring the tundra. Flatiron Saloon (San Rafael). marinscuba.org NOV 30 Jon Meacham The Pulitzer Prize winner discusses his book Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power. Angelico Concert Hall (San Rafael). 415.485.3202, dominican.edu

TOWN CENTER CORTE MADERA SOUTH END

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Dine e dite d by mimi towle

happy hour all day on Monday, free corkage on Tuesday, martini night on Wednesday, and live jazz on Thursday. 18 Tamalpais Dr, 415.927.2316, benissimos.com

Insalata Caprese at Vasco in Mill Valley

Brick & Bottle California Sourcing local and artisanal ingredients, executive chef Scott Howard brings simple California cuisine to Corte Madera’s Brick & Bottle. The restaurant features a large bar area, an outdoor patio and family-friendly dining. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com Champagne Bakery French This casual bakery displays freshly made pastries, croissants, tarts, cookies and cakes, to be enjoyed indoors or out on the patio. Brioche French toast and French dip sandwich with Swiss cheese are among the many menu options. Catering is also available. 103 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.5470, champagnebakery.com

Corte Madera

• Vasco Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. Try one of the restaurant’s pasta dishes or thincrust pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vascomillvalley.com

Benissimo Italian “Benissimo” means “really really good” in Italian. Besides the daily 4-to-7 happy hour when drinks are $3 to $5 and small plates $5 to $7, specials include

Il Fornaio Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu offers a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com

Marin Joe’s Italian Authentic Italian dishes have been served here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood, mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and more than 10 pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. Have a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com Pacific Catch PanAsian The well-priced menu here offers a bounty of fresh-grilled items and Pacific Rim—inspired small or main plates, including generously portioned wasabi bowls filled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of chicken, beef and cooked or raw fish. It’s modeled after the Paia Fish House on Maui, down to the chalkboard menu and Hawaiian music. 133 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com Rick’s Wine Cellar California This oneroom bar and wine shop is owned and operated by Marin natives Rick and Candy Mendell. You can order by the glass, flight or bottle, all of which pair nicely with the cheeses, salami and hot paninis. 207 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.9466, rickswinecellar.com SEA Thai Bistro Asian SEA stands for Southeast Asian, and co-owner and executive chef Tony Ounpamornchai

Tim POrter

A n i n s i d e r ’ s g u i d e t o r e s ta u r a n t s a n d G o o d F o o d i n t h e b ay a r e a

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Out & About / dine Greenbrae Bistro Vis à Vis California This Bon Air Shopping Center eatery features the cooking of Michelinstar-rated chef Mike Fredsall. 282 Bon air Ctr, 415.925.4370, bistrovisavis.com Jason’s California The menu includes seafood dishes with an Asian and Italian flair. Try the ceviche, crab cakes or blackened salmon; seating options include a covered outdoor patio. 300 Drakes Landing Rd, 415.925.0808, jasonsrestaurant.com

infuses his cooking with Thai and other Asian flavors to create innovative dishes. The menu features sustainable and local ingredients when possible and includes an extensive wine list. 60 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.8333, seathaibistro.com The Counter California/American The folks at the Counter have taken the “have it your way” motto to a new level. Mostly known for all-natural Angus beef, turkey, chicken or veggie burgers, the restaurant also offers options like a bowl (all the ingredients without the bun) or salads. And if you want a martini with your burger, no problem; there’s a full bar. 201 Corte Madera Town Center 415.924.7000, thecounterburger.com

Fairfax 123 Bolinas California Known for farm-fresh, organic cuisine, 123 Bolinas was created by four friends who aimed to showcase seasonal fare in a relaxing, intimate environment. Enjoy locally brewed beer and smallproduction wines as you take in the view of Bolinas Park through the floor-to-ceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com Fradelizio’s Italian Family-owned for 15 years, Fradelizio’s blends Northern Italian cuisine with California-inspired healthy flare using the freshest ingredients possible. The homemade gnocci is a crowd favorite. 35 Broadway Blvd, 415.459.1618, fradelizios.com

Iron Springs Pub & Brewery American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich — which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted.” 765 Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com Pancho Villa’s Mexican A Fairfax favorite for over 30 years. Since 1976, head chef Francisco has been turning out treats like chile relleno stuffed with jack cheese, cilantro and onion and crab enchiladas topped with a mild tomatillo sauce and sour cream. 1625 Sir Frances Drake Blvd, 415.459.0975, panchosfairfax.com Sorella Caffe Italian Open for over six years and run by sisters Sonia and Soyara, Sorella, which means “sisters,” serves up fresh Italian food with a northern

influence. Customer favorites include cioppino, butternut squash ravioli and eggplant parmesan. Another highlight is the giant wheel of Grana Padana cheese, which is passed around the tables. Easy place to bring the kids. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520, sorellacaffe.com Steakhouse Grill & Bar American Celebrating its 90 year anniversary, this steakhouse at Deer Park Villa is more than just a restaurant serving signature Angus steaks and prime rib. It is a gathering place with daily happy hour, live entertainment and a large heated deck. Events include Ladies’ Night, Prime Rib Weekend and the Redwood Music Series. 367 Bolinas Rd, 415.456.8084, deerparksteakhousegrill.com

Wipeout Bar & Grill American The family-friendly hot spot has surfboards hanging from the ceiling, fun-in-the-sun music, a full bar and large televisions displaying surfers riding waves. Menu includes fish tacos, salads and burgers.The only thing missing is the sand at this surf-style, upbeat eatery. Kids eat free on Tuesdays with each purchase of an adult entrée. 302 Bon Air Ctr, 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com

Larkspur Emporio Rulli Italian Pastry chef Gary Rulli is renowned for his Northern Italian specialties and treats. The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a favored spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com

Fabrizio Ristorante Italian Traditional Italian dishes with an extensive wine list from regions all over Italy; outside seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, fabrizioristorante.com Left Bank Restaurant French Known for award-winning French cuisine and a lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot on Magnolia Avenue has rated high with locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite or budget can opt for happy hour (4–6:30 p.m., M–F) for appetizers, most of which are priced under $6. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com Marin Brewing Co American Grab a cold beer made right on site and pair it with fish and chips — fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com Rustic Bakery California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com The tavern at Lark Creek American The next chapter in the 1888 Victorian Murphy House, formerly known as Lark

Nourish Images

Goat Cheese Stuffed Artichoke at Sweetwater Cafe in Mill Valley

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Creek Inn, is being written by chef Aaron Wright. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, tavernatlarkcreek.com Yankee Pier American This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beer-battered fish ’n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

Mill Valley Beerworks Brewery and Beer Cafe American With a beverage menu of handcrafted beers made on site, imported and local microbrews and house-made kombucha and root beer, this Mill Valley brewery is set to keep the local palate pleased. Don’t miss the small beer hall selection of pretzels, salumis and cheeses. 173 Throckmorton Ave, 415.888.8218, millvalleybeerworks.com Boo Koo Asian Finally Mill Valley has an Asian street food restaurant and best of all, dishes are $10 and less. The menu offers something for every eater — vegan, gluten-free, vegetarian, carnivore. Menu items include chicken pho, vegan summer rolls, pad thai and fivespice pork satay — all made with organic, locally produced veggies and proteins from vegetarian-fed, sustainably raised sources. 25 Miller Ave, 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com

Buckeye Roadhouse American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com Bungalow 44 American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipid-laden dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and truffle fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, known for tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com

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Champagne Bakery French Enjoy a croque-monsieur alfresco, linger over a flaky, buttery croissant with a cappuccino, or pick up chocolatedipped strawberries for your dinner party. 41 Throckmorton Ave, 415.380.0410, millvalley.champagne bakery.com Dipsea Cafe Comfort This longtime breakfast spot has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Lunch specialties include BLTs and tuna melts and generous Cobb salads. Now offers Greek-inspired dinners. 200 Shoreline Hwy, 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com

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Out & About / dine Frantoio Ristorante Italiano Italian Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this spot is a great location for an intimate dinner, large groups and anything in between. Owned by Roberto Zecca and chef Duilio Valenti, both from Milano, the kitchen uses local and organic ingredients. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. The popular happy hour starts at 4:30. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com Hawk’s Tavern American Pop into this country-style tavern for a quick snack —a fresh-baked pretzel or sautéed red kale — or settle down for a farmto-table meal. The 18 dishes on the menu include bangers and mash (here done with organic pork sausage and buttermilk mashed potatoes) and Scottish salmon with black-eyed peas and garlic aioli. A private dining room is available for parties of 12. 507 Miller Ave, 415.388.3474, hawkstavern.com India Palace Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite among the takeout crowd; however, eating on site is a treat too. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350, india palacemillvalley.com Grilly’s Restaurant Mexican Both the Mill Valley and Fairfax locations offer “healthy Mexican food” like grilled chicken, steak or veggie-filled

burritos with glutenfree and vegetarian options. 493 Miller Ave, 415.381.3278, grillys.com Harmony Chinese Dishes here are an infusion of many flavors. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce; fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com Pearl’s Phat Burgers American Dubbed a silver-spoon alternative to a greasy spoon diner by The New York Times, Pearl’s has a loyal following for the big juicy all-natural patties (vegetarian, turkey, beef, buffalo or grilled chicken) served up with tasty sides such as garlic or sweet potato fries, shakes and seasonal smoothies. Eat in if you can get a seat, or take out. 8 East Blithedale Ave, 415.381.6010, pearlsdeluxe.com Piazza D’angelo Italian It’s always a party at this longstanding hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce or pollo novello, or make some new friends at the bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com Piatti Ristorante and Bar Italian The staff prides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria.

Rhubarb Cake at Picco in Larkspur

• Picco California This has

been a popular place ever since opening in 2005. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, have kept people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fired pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com

Try for a table at the window for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Take a peek at the impressive collection of Italian wines to go with your rustic seasonal Italian meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com Pizza Antica Italian Although a recent Yelp reviewer praised it for having “by far the best thin-crust pizzas in Marin,” this Strawberry shopping center spot also offers antipasti and hearty salads. Wine is served by the glass, half carafe or bottle. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com

Robata Grill and Sushi Japanese Robata translates as “by the fireside” — fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fire and served in appetizersize portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entrée from the menu. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com Shoreline Coffee Shop American Tucked away in a parking lot at Tam Junction, this Mexican coffee shop is (to quote one Yelper) a “funky diner” with a small-town feel. Mexican grilled cheese, open-face meat loaf sandwich and local/ organic tuna tostadas are just a few of the menu selections, a mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast

fare. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085 Super Duper Burger American “Fast food burgers, slow food values” is this burger joint’s motto.. Pies and cookies are baked in house, and shakes, in such flavors as cookies and cream and double chocolate and chips, are made with organic Straus Creamery soft-serve from Petaluma. Sit at one of 20 indoor or outdoor tables or take away in environmentally friendly compostable containers. 430 Miller Ave, 415.380.8555, superdupersf.com

Sweetwater Music Hall Cafe American Located at the entrance of Sweetwater Music Hall, the cafe is a small oasis of calm dedicated to the F.L.O.S.S. philosophy: Fresh, Local, Organic, Seasonal and Sustainable. 19 Corte Madera Ave, 415.388.3850, sweet watermusichall.com Tamalpie Italian Traditional pizzas from a 1,500-year-old recipe, with organic ingredients gathered from the farmers’ market twice weekly. Sit indoors or out; enjoy starters like creamy polenta, salads, and pies with names like Hoo-kooE-koo and Railroad Grade. 477 Miller Ave, 415.388.7437, tamalpiepizza.com

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Hilltop 1892 California Situated in a historic estate in Novato, with sweeping views, Hilltop 1892 offers traditional favorites with a California flair. Open from breakfast through dinner, as well as Sunday brunch. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com Rickey’s Restaurant & Bar American Besides a full service restaurant and bar (with banquet/ meeting rooms) this comfort food classic offers poolside dining and a garden patio overlooking green lawns. During the summer, dine while listening to jazz by the pool from 6:30–9:30 p.m. 250 Entrada Drive, 415.883.9477. rickeysrestaurant.com

Thep Lela Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com

Novato Chianti Cucina Italian “This cozy eatery features an array of Italian and American choices, including a penne pesto described by one Yelp contributor as a “hot creamy bowl of heaven.” Another standout menu item is the house-made ravioli cooked up by chef Edgar DeLon. 7416 Redwood Hwy, 415.878.0314, chiantinovato.com

Rustic Bakery California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1407 Grant Avenue, 415.878-4952, rusticbakery.com Tavola Italian Kitchen Italian A neighborhood gathering place for friends and family, Tavloa Offers locally sourced and sustainable produce, meats and decor. Traditional favorites like heirloom tomato and zucchini Panini and minestrone soup pay homage to its Italian roots. Open for Sunday brunch. 5800 Nave Dr, 415.883.6686, tavolaitaliankitchen.com

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Out & About / dine Ceviche Trio at Pacific Catch in Corte Madera

Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com Taj of Marin Indian Delicious North and South Indian cuisine, from the $8.95 lunch special to dinners that include goat curry, spinach, lentils and tandoori. Gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options available. 909 4th Street, 415.459.9555, tajofmarin.com

San Anselmo Insalata’s Mediterranean Awardwinning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com L’Appart Resto French It’s the second Marin restaurant for the team behind Le Garage Bistro in Sausalito. Owners Bruno Denis and Olivier Souvestre are offering a menu most Francophiles would be proud of, complete with items like smoked herring, bone marrow and cassoulet de legumes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com Marinitas Mexican The sister restaurant of Insalata’s, Marinitas continues to flourish as a bastion of creative Latin cuisine in Marin.

It may not be as lowpriced as most Mexican restaurants in the area, but this is not your typical south-of-theborder spot. The festive atmosphere and funky decor complement the excellent food for a classy, lively experience. Finish with the rich tres leches cake. This place gets packed, so make reservations. 218 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.454.8900, marinitas.net

San Rafael Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria California The array of pizzas includes gluten-free crust options and the new Siciliano, an enticing mix of mozzarella, slow-roasted garlic, sausage, broccoli and crushed red pepper flakes, sans tomato sauce. 1242 Fourth St, 415.455.9777, amicis.com

Chalet Basque French This familystyle restaurant serves dishes inspired by the Basque regions of France and Spain, including frog legs in a garlic butter and lemon sauce, a veal calf liver sauté and rack of lamb. On a warm Marin night enjoy alfresco dining on the outdoor patio. 405 North San Pedro Rd, 415.479.1070, chaletbasquemarin.com Il Davide Italian A large selection of both Italian and California wines by the glass along with the dolci menu’s tiramisu have kept locals coming back for years. Don’t leave without sampling the limoncello. 901 A St, 415.454.8080, ildavide.net Lotus Restaurant Indian Lotus Restaurant has earned Hall of Fame kudos from Pacific Sun readers for nearly a decade. Family owned and operated, it serves up North Indian cuisine with vegan and

vegetarian options in a casual pink-tablecloth setting. 704 Fourth St, 415.456.5808, lotusrestaurant.com Mulberry Street Pizzeria Italian Chef Ted Rowe won first place in the Food Network Television Pizza Challenge with his Mushroom Lover’s Pizza — sautéed mushrooms in a creamy garlic sauce atop a fresh pizza crust. Located across from the Smith Ranch Road movie theaters, it’s a great place to grab dinner and a movie. 101 Smith Ranch Rd, 415.472.7272, mulberry-streetpizzeria.com San Rafael Joe’s Italian Guido and Theresa Farina run this Marin institution, which has been famous for sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. Great for large parties, the dining room holds 240. The Pacific red snapper meunière and roast sirloin of beef are standouts. 931

Theresa & Johnny’s Whipper Snapper Restaurant California/Caribbean Owner and chef Bill Higgins serves reasonably priced and delicious tapas. Save room for delicious fish tacos and yummy chocolate bread pudding. On Sundays, try the $3 glasses of sangria. 1613 Fourth St, 415.256.1818, whipsnap.biz Yet Wah Chinese Named after the founder’s wife (“Yet” refers to the moon, “Wah” to brightness), this beloved mainstay offers dim sum daily along with the traditional Chinese menu. Groove to live music in the Kung Fu Lounge. 1238 Fourth St, 415.460.9883, yetwahsanrafael.com

Sausalito Angelino Restaurant Italian Father-and-son chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant, which has been featuring cuisine of the Campania region for the past 24 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com

Aurora Ristorante & Pizzeria Italian The three-year-old Aurora Ristorante in Novato finally has a counterpart in southern Marin. Aurora offers traditional Italian food, a full bar and friendly service. Great for families, groups, dates and sports enthusiasts, who can keep up to date on the game via large flat-screen TV. 300 Valley St, 415.339.8930, aurora-sausalito.com Avatar’s Indian Looking for “the best meal of your life”? Let owner Ashok Kumar order for you. One-room casual dining for lunch and dinner. 2656 Bridgeway, 415.332.8083, enjoyavatars.com Bar Bocce American Food tastes better, your company becomes funnier and issues of the day seem trivial when you’re dining on a bayside patio with fire pits and a bocce ball court. Throw in sourdough bread pizzas and a glass of wine, and you’ll see why this casual eatery, whose co-owner and executive chef is Robert Price of Buckeye and Bungalow 44, has become a local favorite. 1250 Bridgeway, 415.331.0555, barbocce.com Caffé DiVino Tuscan Locals come for the tasty pastas and salads as well as coffee drinks, served in a funky one-room setting. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.com Cibo Cafe Husbandand-wife team Alfredo and Tera Ancona offer a menu of tarts, croissants, cookies, paninis and soups. Every dish

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is made from scratch with local and seasonal products. And now Marinites no longer have to drive over the bridge to get famous Blue Bottle coffee. Located in the historic brick building at 1201 Bridgeway. 415.331.2426, cibosausalito.com

Justin Lewis

Feng Nian Chinese Busy at lunch and dinner, this spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup, pot stickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat order the Szechwan crispy calamari or honey-glazed walnut prawn. Free delivery. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com

Fish Seafood It is all about the fresh catch here. You can dine at one of the picnic tables or purchase fish to cook at home. Casual, and bring cash (lots of it!). 350 Harbor Dr, 415.331.3474, 331fish.com Kittiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Place Thai/ California Known for the tasty Chinese chicken salad and spring rolls. Owner Kitti Suthipipiat was the cook at Comforts in San Anselmo for many years. Try weekly specials like the Thai Toast: crispy sliced baguette topped with shrimp and chicken. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com La Hacienda Bar & Grill Mexican Get your Mexican food fix any time of day: This festive

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Out & About / dine 23-table new location with a well-stocked bar is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Owner Jose Sahagun recently decided to set up in Sausalito after years in the business (he also owns La Hacienda Taqueria in San Rafael). Check out the $7.99 lunch special, complete with a soft drink. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.332.1677 Le Garage French Escape the touristy Sausalito spots and grab brunch right on the water. The atmosphere is animated with light French music (think Amélie). The Kobe Burger, though not as Parisian as the other menu items, is to die for. And the much-adored croquemonsieur is under $10. Opt for indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistrosausalito. com Lighthouse American Blueberry pancakes, omelets and

Danish-influenced dishes are the draw here. It’s a small space, so be prepared to wait or get there early. 1311 Bridgeway, 415.331.3034, light house-restaurants.com Murray Circle American Enjoy the sun on the deck of this Cavallo Point restaurant. Locals say they come back for the fresh seasonal specials like wild sturgeon and Wolfe Ranch quail. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com Napa Valley Burger Company American Serving local all natural and organic meats, produce and wines, this burger joint offers classic burgers (glutenfree buns available), fries, salads, tacos and root beer floats. With outdoor and indoor tables, the space can accommodate up to 100 people. 670 Bridgeway, 415.332.1454, napavalleyburgercompany.com

Pizzeria Rossetti Italian Traditional Italian fare made with locally sourced organic ingredients, including organic San Marzano tomatoes and Giusto flour. With a small offering of appetizers and salads, Pizzeria Rossetti has a wide pizza menu with options like the traditional Margherita and the burrata pizza. 45 Caledonia St, 415.887.9526, pizzeriarossetti.com Plate Shop California If the seasonal menu and 14 large vegetable beds outside the kitchen door aren’t telltale signs, the menu is — the Plate Shop is all about fresh, local and all-organic cuisine. Choose from an extensive wine list and an assortment of cocktails. 39 Caledonia St, 415.887.9047, plateshop.net Poggio Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter

McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com Salito’s Seafood In a well-known location on Richardson Bay that was most recently home to Paradise Bay, Salito’s features a new look and casual ambience. Enjoy a Nick and Nora’s Cocktail Special or a signature dish, including whole roasted Dungeness crab, housemade kettle bread served with Straus butter and sizzling iron-skillets of mussels. 1200 Bridgeway, 415.331.3226, salitoscrabhouse.com Saylor’s Restaurant and Bar California/ Mexican Marin’s first tequila bar offers over 100 tequila options. Nightly meal specials include chicken potpie, roasted salmon,

baby back ribs and traditional meat loaf. If you’re up for wilder entertainment there are frequent events like margarita night and flight night tequilatasting parties. The private dining room is perfect for large parties. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylorsrestaurantand bar.com SEAFOOD PEDDLER Seafood New location, new partners (along with original owner incluindg executive Sidel ChaconA great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of east and west coast fish are flown in daily. 303 Johnson St, 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com Seahorse Italian The spacious dining area, stage and dance floor make Seahorse perfect for both small and large celebrations. Enjoy a modern twist on classic Tuscan coastal cuisine while

• Comforts Cafe

American This cozy spot features local ingredients and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com

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shaking your booty to the nightly live music and entertainment. 305 Harbor Dr, 415.331.2899, sausalitoseahorse.com Sushi Ran Japanese Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good, and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barfly well satisfied. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake; reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com Sweet Ginger Japanese Owner and chef Edna and Wayne Chiang know their way around good sushi. Try fresh sashimi, the classic Dragon Roll, 49er’s Roll or Rock ’N Roll, or be adventurous and have Wayne whip you up something off the menu. Good sake and a comfortable setting round out the reasonably priced meal. 400 Caledonia St, 415.332.1683, sweet gingersausalito.com Taste of the Himalayas Himalayan Born in the foothills of the Himalayas, siblings Pemba, Dawa and Pasang serve up favorites from Nepal, Tibet and India. The restaurant focuses on blending different cultures and cuisines: spices from India, spirituality from Tibet, hospitality from Nepal and the freshness of ingredients from California. 2633 Bridgeway, 415.331.1335, himalayaca.com

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Tommy’s Wok Chinese Scrupulously fresh ingredients and free-range chicken make the yellow coconut milk curry here divine. Nice atmosphere and good takeout. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.332.5818, tommyswok.com Wellington’s California British transport Jeremy John and his wife, Jill, have created an expansive (2,400-square-foot) wine bar with a homey feel, board games, views of the bay and a worldly cellar featuring affordable bottles and special reserves. The menu offers wines by the glass for $5 to $20 and tasting flights of any three wines for $12. 300 Turney St, 415.331.9463, wellingtonswine.com

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Tiburon Caprice California Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in what one Yelp reviewer called “the perfect romantic dinner spot.” Midweek take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than

$25. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com Don Antonio Trattoria Italian Located in Tiburon’s historic Ark Row, this trattoria offers authentic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. The menu includes traditional courses with selections such as chicken piccata, organic roasted rack of lamb and housemade pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, donantoniotrattoria.com Guaymas Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront. The touchit-you’re-so-close city views and outdoor seating make it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy hour is 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday. Menu includes specialties like puerco macho — pork loin chop with grilled plantain, topped with an ancho chile, garlic and onion sauce. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com

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Milano Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. A good place to take the kids — or catering option for your next birthday party. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100, tiburonmilano.com Salt & Pepper American This sun-filled, hardwoodfloored one room restaurant with bluecheckered tablecloths is a local favorite. Popular items on chef Abraham Monterroso’s menu include scallops, rib-eye steak, a beef burger and traditional crab cakes with jalapeno dipping sauce. 38 Main Street, 415.435.3594 Sam’s Anchor Cafe American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole,

but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy transfat-free calamari, fresh fish, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com Servino Ristorante Italian Executive Chef Massimo Covello comes to the kitchen via Frantoio and Piazza D’Angelo, where he cooks up an array of rustic Italian dishes, including house-made pastas, wood oven pizzas and seasonal specialties.9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com Tiburon Tavern California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting, with two outdoor patios, two indoor fireplaces and candlelit tables at dinner. No item is more than $20, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to $18 range. Happy hour is Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. 1651 Tiburon Blvd,

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415.435.5996, tiburontavern.com

West Marin Drakes Beach Cafe American If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). Walk on the beach after lunch. 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakescafe.com Nick’s Cove American Large windows open the 130-seat eatery to the picturesque Tomales Bay and Hog Island. Menu consists of the freshest available local seafood, oysters and bounty from nearby West Marin farms, including Bodega Bay Dungeness crab cake and Tomales Bay clam chowder (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com Parkside Cafe American Most people know it as the ultimate breakfast spot (think Guatemalan scramble or waffle with blood orange–strawberry compote and whipped cream — served alfresco) but lunch and dinners are popular here too. Choose from an array of organic locally grown produce and artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com Pine Cone Diner American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade

curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare. A favorite for locals as well as tourists (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com

Luxury Retirement Living in Marin County In the natural splendor of Marin County there is a 30-acre community for people of independent minds who require homes reflecting their own expressed wishes and active lifestyles. Where distinctive quality, attention to detail, access to health care providers and the abundance of services provide a truly remarkable value.

Rancho Nicasio American Known for live music and an extensive menu featuring everything from Dungeness crab burgers to walnut-crusted goat cheese, Rancho Nicasio is open seven days a week. Be sure to stop by for happy hour, 4–6 p.m. 1 Old Rancheria (Nicasio) Rd, 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com Sand Dollar American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant was floated to Stinson that same year and it’s still there today. Enjoy live music along with local barbecued oysters and New England clam chowder. Sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com Station House Cafe American Fresh local homegrown foods, served when available, are showcased on the chef’s menu. Stop in on weekends for the live music and enticing wine and beer lists. 11180 State Route One, 415.663.1515, stationhousecafe.com

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ADVERTISING PR OMOTIO N

DINE out

EALS DEALS ON M

Deals on Meals Enjoy local restaurants and save 30 percent on meals. Check out the participating restaurants in our “Deals on Meals” section and experience big

savings. Spend only $35 for a dining certificate worth $50. Simply go to marinmagazine.com/dineout to purchase a dining certificate from a restaurant in this section and we will mail it to you. Try a new restaurant or purchase a certificate for an old favorite. A perfect gift for any occasion. Limited supply each month.

Dine local — save big time!

Amici’s offers a taste of the Northeast’s distinctive Italian fare, including authentic thin-crust pizzas, and freshly made pastas and salads. Amici’s offers dine-in and takeout as well as delivery of their entire menu to local homes and businesses. A Gluten Free menu is also available at the San Rafael location.

Gather Together for Thanksgiving Dinner. Traditional to chef-inspired, join us for a locally-harvested dinner with your family and friends. Enjoy cuisine stations celebrating the season, vegan selections, and Chef Scott’s family recipes for dessert. The table is set, no dishes to be done. Call for details and reservations.

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Brick & Bottle 55 Tamal Vista Blvd Corte Madera, CA

415.455.9777 amicis.com

415.924.3366 brickandbottle.com

The holidays have arrived at Comforts, and we’re preparing wonderful seasonal menus, featuring local and organic produce. Contact our catering department to place your order for an easy and memorable holiday feast, or come and enjoy comforting fall dishes in our full-service café or take-out department. Open 7 days.

Come celebrate Deer Park Villa’s 90th year at our new Steakhouse Grill & Bar. Marin’s most tender certified Angus steaks & prime rib, 150+ wines, artisan cocktails, outdoor dining and entertainment in our historic redwoods - have a deliciously good time. Real Food. Real Friends. Real Marin.

Comforts Cafe 335 San Anselmo Avenue San Anselmo, CA

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415.454.9840 comfortscafe.com

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Serving Marin for over 25 years with delicious Szechwan, Mandarin cuisine. Always fresh food and friendly service, nice decor, and easy parking. Also offer delivery to Southern Marin, and private parties for any occasion.

Specialties include mesquite-grilled steaks and fish, house-made pastas, fresh salads and soups, a wide variety of desserts, and fresh baked bread along with artisan cocktails and a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list. Each month, a special regional dinner menu is featured. Groups of all sizes are welcome!

Feng Nian 2650 Bridgeway Sausalito, CA

Il Fornaio 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr Corte Madera, CA

415.331.5300 fengnian.com

415.927.4400 ilfornaio.com

The Napa Valley Burger Company brings a taste of Napa Valley to Sausalito. We offer fine wines, fresh gourmet burgers and gluten free options in one of Sausalito’s oldest brick buildings. Come down, grab a bite and compete in our Name that Burger Contest!

The Napa Valley Wine Train is one of Napa’s most distinctive restaurants. Enjoy gourmet dining, exclusive Napa Valley winery tours, and special wine events all aboard beautifully restored antique rail cars. Lunch trains leave at 11:30 am and return at 2:30 pm. Dinner trains leave at 6:30 pm and return at 9:30 pm.

Napa Valley Burger Company 670 Bridgeway Sausalito, CA

Napa Valley Wine Train 1275 McKinstry Street Napa, CA

415.332.1454 napavalleyburgercompany.com

800.427.4124 winetrain.com

Pearl’s Phat Burger, a Marin County tradition! In addition to 1/4 lb and 1/2 grass-fed burgers, Pearl’s offers grilled chicken sandwiches, turkey burgers, veggie burgers, and grass-fed buffalo burgers. Pair them with our famous hand battered onion rings, and thick shakes blended with home made ice cream. Now serving beer and wine. Hurry in today!

The Counter offers all-natural, humanely-raised beef and 312,120+ combinations to build your own burger. The Counter is a great place for family, friends, great music and a full bar. Voted best burger in Bay Area by SFGate.com readers on Baylist 2011. ‘LIKE’ us on www.facebook.com/ TheCounterCorteMadera !

Pearls Phat Burgers 8 East Blithedale Ave Mill Valley, CA

The Counter 201 Town Center Corte Madera, CA

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Giovanni Bondoc and Frank Sheets

Lisa Sheets and Lisa Brenner

• Wine, Women and Shoes Guests were treated to a day of food, wine and shoes at the Campodonico Estate in Kentfield September 15. Proceeds benefited Sunny Hills Services, providing services to vulnerable youth and their families. Cece McGrain, Karen Turrini, Nancy Ghillotti and Cheryl Bacchi

• Film Night at the Shop Guests enjoyed popcorn and the cycling movie Overcoming at City Cycle in Corte Madera September 16. Proceeds from the evening benefited Access4Bikes.

Ansley Majit

• Vino and Vinyasa It was a day of yoga followed by a reception with wine and hors d’oeuvres and music by MC Yogi, all celebrating the opening of The Pad in Greenbrae’s Bon Air Center September 13.

Cory and Lisa Farrer, John and Katerine Mathews, Dorette and Duane Franks

mo delong

Joan Kermath, Andrew and Lily Riesenfeld

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Eric Silva

Tom Killion

• Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival More than 140 fine artists were featured at the 56th annual Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival held among the redwoods in Old Mill Park September 15–16. Attendees also enjoyed live music and food. Tarrin Dougery, Drew Betzner, Henry Bustamante, Jeff Davidson and Travis Terrell

• Ohlhoff Recovery Programs Golf Tournament Golfers enjoyed barbecue, a round of golf and a reception dinner at the Marin Country Club in Novato September 17 in support of Ohlhoff Recovery Programs.

Mo delong

Mike Sturgis

Fred Watanabe, Mark Kramer and Tony Lazaro

Cindy Miracle, Tim Gibbons and Susan Kirsch

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p r omot ion

adlib

m a r i n

a dv e r t i s e r s

Chris Manning, president of Travaasa

s p e a k

What is your competitive edge?

Experiential Resorts

We execute an industry-

Travaasa Experiential Resorts is unique because of its inspirational,

experienced and flexible

irreplaceable locations and the Five Pillars of experiences offered: adventure, culinary, culture, fitness and wellness. The incredible programs take guests someplace new and incredible, bringing magic to travel.

u p

leading vision with a smart, team. We are all focused on delivering something unique to our guests. Our internal culture is our competitive edge and our

What is your business philosophy? If you deliver what guests want, you will be rewarded. Our inspiration for Travaasa began with our travel — too often we stayed in cold, soulless concrete towers. We all want a place embodying a destination’s culture, cuisine and adventures, its heartbeat and sense of well-being.

results show it is working.

Five years from now, what changes will your business experience? Experiential travel will continue

What makes your work worthwhile? Every day I get the opportunity to see the happiness of our guests as they explore everything we have to offer — I love hearing what they’ve learned and how much they’ve enjoyed the whole concept of the Travaasa experience.

to become more mainstream, making it harder to stand out by offering local, authentic experiences. Hotels will get smarter about having conversations with their guests. This will be good for travelers and force hoteliers to keep innovating. TRAVAASA EXPERIENTIAL RESORTS, INFO@TRAVAASA.COM, TRAVAASA.COM

Genevieve Custer Weeks,

founding director of Tutu School

love that we are raising our preschooler with an entrepreneurial spirit. We believe the lessons you learn growing up in a family business are invaluable. I am grateful for the pride our son takes in simple things like helping us touch up paint in the studio and, also, that he gets to see both of his parents working hard at something they truly love.

With locations in both Larkspur and San Francisco,

What makes your work worthwhile?

Tutu School offers ballet-

At the end of every class, we all stand together and say “thank you for the

based creative movement

music, thank you for the dancing” the way dancers and ballerinas do with

classes for children 18

their curtsies and bows. Then we whisper “thank you for the magic.” That

months to 8 years old, as

moment is the one that makes it all worthwhile.

well as ballet birthday parties and a summer day

What is the funniest thing that’s happened recently in your business?

camp program.

This summer one especially adorable 3-year-old announced to the class, with complete confidence, that her name was Sparkly Brave. Frankly, I

What is your business philosophy?

thought it was everything one could want in a name, but her parents seemed

Our mission is to give every child who walks through our door a magical

to prefer the one they gave her.

experience in the world of ballet. We believe that exposing children at the earliest possible age to creativity, movement and classical music will serve

Five years from now, what changes will your business experience?

them well in whatever they choose to do with their lives and that twirling

You will see a lot more of us. I see so many potential homes for new Tutu

should be a fundamental part of any childhood.

Schools. In almost every place I visit I think, Tutu School would be such a great neighbor in this community.

What are your thoughts regarding working with family? My husband, Andrew, is my business partner (although he is also a photographer with his own business, Andrew Weeks Photography) and I

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TUTU SCHOOL, SAN FRANCISCO and LARKSPUR, 415.734.8840, GENEVIEVE@TUTUSCHOOL.COM, TUTuSCHOOL.COM

10/10/12 1:19 PM

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Marin Home fro m to u r s a n d m a k eov e r s to d eco r at iv e d e ta i l s a n d r e a lto r i n s i g h t s

Soaking Up San Anselmo

A Sonoma County transplant finds charm and serenity in small-town Marin. by PJ Bremier â&#x20AC;˘ photos by Tim Porter

The inviting front porch of Donna Burkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home.

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Marin Home / backstory

onom a County wa s the perfect spot for Donna Burk when she first moved to California from Indianapolis and took a job in the Napa wine industry. For eight years, she appreciated the area’s warm climate and enjoyed her comfortable Sonoma home just blocks from the town’s vibrant plaza, but after her recent retirement she wanted to make a change. “I love to golf and a lot of my golf buddies — and my favorite courses — are down in this direction, so I thought moving closer to Marin, the city and the East Bay would make it easier to do spontaneous things,” she says. “Besides, while Sonoma has a lot of great things going for it, it gets to be a little sleepy.” A friend referred her to realtor Judy Smith and “we clicked instantly,” Burk recalls. “I’m pretty particular; I wanted a home with character, something that wasn’t cookie-cutter, and I wanted it to be in a warm area.”

Clockwise from top left: Donna Burk; many furnishings were reused from Burk’s Sonoma home; the front yard features plants attractive to pollinators.

Last March, after Burk had viewed about 40 houses, Smith showed her a spacious but compact two-story 1940s-era home with high ceilings, three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a sylvan view. Although the two had looked extensively in southern Marin, “after I saw this home, I encouraged Donna to broaden her search to San Anselmo and she knew right away she had found her new home,” Smith says. The home is set on a hill in the quiet Seminary area. “It wasn’t even on the market but she got me in and I made an offer that night,” Burk says. “It had such a good feel to it that the minute I walked in, I got the sense I was home.” The home was so ideal that Burk has only made a few cosmetic changes such as painting the walls in her favorite shade (Benjamin Moore’s “Powell Buff”), adding a built-in wall unit in the family room and replacing the front lawn with colorful perennials to attract pollinators. “I feel so close to nature here even though I can walk to town,” she says, adding that she hears coyotes and owls in the deep dark of the nearby hills. When she does head to town, Burk enjoys stopping in at Coffee Roasters, Taco Jane’s, Comforts or Insalata’s, and if she’s on her bike, she might take a spin on one of the local bike trails. “I go whichever way the wind blows,” she says, smiling. “I like to cruise around looking at the beautiful neighborhoods and the charming architecture.” m

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the details Where she purchased San Anselmo’s Seminary area What she bought A three-bedroom home with a woodland view Listing agent Jimmy Wanninger, Pacific Union International–Christie’s International Real Estate Selling agent Judy Smith, Frank Howard Allen Realtors Stats Average cost per square foot for homes in neighborhood: $634

It had such a good feel to it that the minute I walked in, I got the sense I was home.

Clockwise from top left: A view of the step-down family room through the dining room; a sitting area; the step-down; updated kitchen with pot filler; a spacious deck.

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Woodside: $39,500,000

Ross: Price Upon Request

KentďŹ eld: $2,895,000

San Anselmo: SOLD $2,350,000

10/8/12 2:34 PM

PACIFIC UNION INTERNATIONAL

Pacific Union International is proud to welcome

Bjorn Sandberg

to our team of luxury professionals

415.730.5354

bjorn.sandberg@pacunion.com pacunion.com

A Member Of Real Living

901 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Kentfield

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PACIFIC UNION INTERNATIONAL

Pacific Union International is proud to welcome

Stacy Achuck

to our team of luxury professionals

415.233.2009

stacy.achuck@pacunion.com pacunion.com

A Member Of Real Living

1550 Tiburon Blvd, Ste U. Tiburon, Ca 94920

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Howard Wynn Presents

60 Mount Tiburon Road, Tiburon

Incomparable World-Class views set the stage for this thoroughly remodeled, private, gated, preeminent Mount Tiburon estate property. Perfectly sited, this exceptional residence features the finest in materials and contemporary design. 6BR/7.5BA

MountTiburon.com - Offered at $7,495,000

4 Midden Lane, Tiburon

Stunning Custom Contemporary with a sophisticated, bright and open design. Picturesque S.F., Sausalito & Bay views complement quality craftsmanship. Fabulous kitchen/family “great room”. Plentiful access to terraces & lush yard. 5BR/5.5BA

4Midden.com - Offered at $3,600,000

1 Windward Road, Belvedere

Mid-Century Contemporary in a splendorous, sunny, southwest-facing setting on the Belvedere Lagoon. 5BR/3BA

1Windward.com Offered At $2,095,000

92 Via Los Altos, Tiburon

Exquisite, custom Mediterranean Contemporary estate, with sweeping views of S.F. & the Bay. This distinctive residence combines elegant design & dramatic architectural detail with the comfort of casual living in a resort-like setting. 5BR/7BA

92ViaLosAltos.com - Offered at $5,295,000

477 Summit Avenue, Mill Valley

Impeccable home in a sunny, gorgeously landscaped setting on coveted Middle Ridge, blending a traditional exterior with splendid custom contemporary design. Many rooms bring the outdoors in, opening to decks, balconies, patios & yard. 4BR/3.5BA

477Summit.com - Offered at $2,895,000

198 Stanford Avenue, Mill Valley

Immaculate Contemporary in an idyllic knoll top setting with a luscious yard and gardens, and superlative views of S.F. Bay. 6BR/3.5BA

198Stanford.com Offered At $1,950,000

30 Elm Avenue, Larkspur

Extensively and meticulously remodeled home in lower Palm Hill with contemporary style, sophistication and warmth. 4BR/2BA

30ElmAvenue.com Offered At $1,835,000

Howard Wynn ESTATES DIRECTOR

415.828.9966

DRE #01211772 www.HowardWynn.com

A Member Of Real Living

Exceeding Expectations. Consistently. • Top 1% in Marin County • hwynn@pacunion.com

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Jim Fraser

Knowledge | Reliability | Integrity

740 Edgewood Avenue Mill Valley

An amazing European style villa situated on 1.2 acres featuring panoramic views from Mount Diablo accross the bay to San Francisco. Grand space that includes a striking master suite and three additional en suite bedrooms. Add to this an office, world class chef’s kitchen, formal and casual dining areas, living room, three fireplaces, multiple decks, pool, spa, and an exercise room too. Elevated celilings, hardwood floors, in home music system throughout main living area and master suite, and a gated driveway entrance add to the extensive attention to detail in this 4,500 square foot family villa.

www.740EdgewoodAve.com Offered At $2,595,000

190 Gilmartin Drive

T w a

Tiburon

Breathtaking, inspirational and truly “one of a kind” bridge to bridge views from the summit of one of Tiburon’s most revered locations. This custom designed family estate boasts space, functionality and flow, enabling a grand family environment. There are three separate and private living areas, with seven or more bedrooms, depending on your individual needs. Three of the bedrooms are large suites, all with compelling views west and south. Additional features include a designer kitchen with a high end Viking range, casual and formal dining areas, living room, dining room, large family / recreational room, au-pair quarters, sauna with adjacent respite area, pool, spa and a four car garage.

A l d c a l i

•

www.190GilmartinDrive.com Price Upon Request

Jim Fraser LUXURY PROPERTY SPECIALIST

415.254.0253

www.MarinIsMyHome.com DRE# 01383288

A Member Of Real Living

1550 Tiburon Blvd, Ste U • Tiburon, CA 94920

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Kathleen Clifford

Magical Magee

s o t al s g d d g y n

32 Magee Avenue, Mill Valley The essence of Mill Valley, this vintage home has a commanding presence inside and out. High ceilings walls of windows, carved molding, exposed beams, stained glass and crystal chandeliers are only but a few of the fine features that await you in this elegant home. An updated kitchen leads to the sunny, flat, grassy yard with beautiful gardens, arbor and a dining and lounging deck. The main living area also boasts a grand living room with exceptional detail, formal dining, a sitting room (or den/office/playroom) and 2 bedrooms and a full bath. Up the curved staircase is the master suite with a delightful bath that looks out onto the redwoods. A second unit includes a full kitchen, bath, bedroom and sitting areas, and separate laundry room. Interior access to lower level provides flexibility for those who simply desire a larger 4 bedroom home. Well located, 32 Magee is close to town and trails, and feels like a welcome retreat from everyday life. • 4 bedrooms, 3 full baths • Classic, vintage home, full of character and detail • Sunny flat backyard

Offered at $1,399,000

Kathleen Clifford LUXURY PROPERTY SPECIALIST

415.314.6466 DRE# 01321467

A Member Of Real Living

Kathleen@KathleenCliffordRealEstate.com | MakingMarinHome.com

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a p r. c o m

RECOGNIZED LOCAL LEADER Alain Pinel Realtors is an established market leader and has a reputation for expertise in representing some of the finest homes in the Bay Area. Due to our powerful local brand, we were selected to be a founding member of Luxury Portfolio InternationalTM, the luxury face of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World® – the largest global network of premier companies, dominated by many of the world’s most powerful independent luxury brokerages. Our affiliation with this influential organization allows us to market your unique property to nearly 200 well respected firms in 45 states and 27 countries. This relationship gives our properties additional domestic and global exposure, and has proven to be the most effective luxury real estate marketing system in the world.

Montecito Road, San Rafael

Walnut Avenue, Ross

Mariposa Court, Tiburon

4-Season Resort Living! Twice selected as Marin Designer’s Showcase. 1.6+acre estate offers private mature grounds, remodeled single-story home, 6bd/6ba, pool, tennis court & panoramic vistas across the Bay.

Shingle-style home in the “flats” off of Lagunitas. Superb, traditional floor plan, four bedrooms on same level, gracious entry, formal living and dining rooms, huge kitchen/ family room, high ceilings and level lawn.

Elegant European home, 4bd/6ba with an abundance of natural light and captivating views designed for indoor and outdoor entertaining. Maple hardwood floors and many architectural features.

$4,975,000

30Walnut.com $4,200,000

7Mariposa.com $3,900,000

Lindy Emrich 414.717.4005

Donna Goldman 415.509.2427

Toni Abruzzo-Ramirez 415.827.8280

Square footage, acreage, and other information herein, has been received from one or more of a variety of different sources. Such information has not been verified by Alain Pinel Realtors. If important to buyers, buyers should conduct their own investigation.

CORTE MADERA 415.755.1111 | ROSS 415.755.1111 NOVATO 415.798.8111 | TIBURON 415.889.2000 | MILL VALLEY 415.384.1111

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Red des to c law Ove

Fou roo mo Sch

an ing oor and

a p r. c o m

Vineyard Avenue, San Anselmo

Prestwick Court, Novato

Ichabod Court, San Anselmo

Reduced! Gracious 6bd/4ba Craftsman in desirable Seminary area with views. 2 blocks to charming downtown. Spacious veranda, lawns and patio are perfect for entertaining. Oversized family/recreation room. Views.

Unique, 4bd/3.5ba, 3900+/-sf, custom home. 700+/-sf guest house, beautiful landscaping, privacy, pool, golf cart garage. End of a cul-de-sac, surrounded by holes 5, 6 and 7 of the Marin Country Club.

Extensively remodeled, 4bd/2.5ba, Colonial. Gorgeous setting on a nearly one-half acre, level lot with pool. A fantastic location on a quiet cul-de-sac and just a few blocks to San Domenico School and the “Club House.”

26Vineyard.com $1,999,999

33Prestwick.com $1,999,000

17ichabod.com $1,895,000

Marti Grossman 415.250.3446

Lorraine Watkins 415.328.6797

Craig Burnett 415.847.8616

Bridge Road, Kentfield

Paseo Mirasol, Tiburon

De Silva Island, Mill Valley

Four bedroom, three bath home with family room. Vintage Craftsman with chef’s kitchen, modern upgrades and amenities in Kentfield School District. Close to shops and schools.

Lovingly maintained, 4 bedroom, 3 bath home in a fantastic Tiburon neighborhood. Kitchen with sunroom, family room, formal living room and dining area.

One-level, 2bd/2.5ba, D floor plan unit with 2-car attached garage and elevator. SF and water views, sophisticated interior with exceptional finishes, high ceilings, crown molding and an elegant master suite.

9BridgeRoadKentfield.com $1,795,000

52PaseoMirasol.com $1,665,000

32DeSilvaIsland.com $1,649,000

Susan Van Liere 415.302.7173

Dennis Naranche 415.496.2927

Suzanne Shelhart 415.613.0100

CORTE MADERA 415.755.1111 | ROSS 415.755.1111 NOVATO 415.798.8111 | TIBURON 415.889.2000 | MILL VALLEY 415.384.1111

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17 Alpine, Novato • $1,449,000 Nearly new 3 bedroom/3.5 bath Craftsman’s home situated on an acre in the coveted Atherton area. Cathedral ceilings, chef’s kitchen, open floor plan, and 3-car garage. Enjoy the country but be close to 101 and Hwy 37.

Atherton Area, Novato • $1,489,000 Comfortable elegance abounds in this 4 bedroom + office/3.5 bath home of +/- 4,300 s.f. situated on a level acre.

Toni Shroyer tshroyer@fhallen.com 415.640.2754 DRE #01876201

Modern Design. Sophisticated Comfort. This stunning, 5bd/4.5ba home was rebuilt in 2003. The result is striking design, attention to detail, and relaxed elegance. Its open floor plan is a confirmation of modern living that distinguishes this home from other Mill Valley offerings. The kitchen is state-of-the-art, the large windows offer stunning views of Homestead Valley and Richardson Bay. 15 Circle Way’s location, on a peaceful cul-de-sac, is the epitome of convenience, schools, shopping nearby & an easy commute to the city. 15Circle.com

Offered at $2,285,000

Cathy & Myriam 415.730.4958 l 415.272.5899 cyoungling@apr.com myriam@apr.com

Innovative Marketing I Exceptional Results Square footage, acreage, and other information herein, has been received from one or more of a variety of different sources. Such information has not been verified by Alain Pinel Realtors. If important to buyers, buyers should conduct their own investigation.

a p r. c o m | M I L L VA L L E Y 3 2 M i l l e r Av e n u e

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210 Sunset Way, Muir Beach $1,350,000 • 210SunsetWay.com 2BR/2BA renovated 1-level “Dwell” home with separate studio.

6 White Way, Muir Beach $1,400,000 • 6WhiteWay.com 3BR/2BA “Sea Ranch” style on approximately ½ acre.

Debra Allen, Realtor 415.279.3751 dallen@fhallen.com muirbeach.com • deballen.com DRE #01002768

341 Sunset Way, Muir Beach $1,500,000 • 341SunsetWay.com 3+BR/3BA oceanfront 1930s “Captain’s” cottage.

Southern Marin off the beaten path!

35 Locke Lane, Mill Valley • $1,895,000 35LockeLane.com Located in coveted Sycamore Park, this light filled 5BD/3.5BA home opens to the living room, dining room and large open kitchen with breakfast area. The family room and master suite each have decks overlooking the level yard. Wonderful proximity to schools, Community Ctr, parks and shopping.

190 Via Lerida, Greenbrae • $1,295,000 190ViaLerida.com Wonderful, spacious move-in ready home. This 4BD/3BA welcomes you with a grand entry foyer and sliding doors from both the living room and kitchen which open to an expansive deck with views. Great location close to many amenities.

Judy LeMarr 2012 Secretary, Marin Association of REALTORS 415.793.5030 • judy@marindreamhome.com MarinDreamHome.com • DRE #1242589

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Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Realty Would Like to Welcome Camara Scremin to our Sausalito Ofﬁce!

J US T L I S T E D & P E NDING!

Camara Scremin 415.902.7183 c.scremin@deckerbullocksir.com •

Over the last 5 years Camara ranks as one of the top 1% of agents for Sausalito sales.

•

Camara has professionally represented over 50 properties in Sausalito during her career.

•

Camara has been honored as a Top Producer at her previous firm over the last 3 years.

•

Camara has over 12 years of real estate experience in Southern Marin.

Newly Constructed in 2007

$1,500,000

4BD/3BA in Sausalito; 2,270 sq. ft. (per tax records); 2 Car Garage; 2 Master Suites; Private w/Bay Views.

Gorgeous Greenbrae Home New Listing

Tasteful Tudor-style home on a lovely tree-lined street in the desirable ﬂats of Greenbrae. 4 Bedrooms, 3.5 baths, formal dining room, eat-in kitchen, family room, sparkling pool, attached garage, and master suite on street level. Patio, decks and garden for gracious indoor/outdoor entertaining. Attention to detail is evident from the vaulted ceilings, to the updated ﬁnishes, to the built-in storage. Convenient to shopping, schools and transportation. The combination of location, features and so much warmth and charm make this truly the home you have been searching for.

“B

www.7LosCerros.com Price upon request

Kimberly Strub 415.218.4255

Kimberly.Strub@SothebysRealty.com

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);

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/12 5:17 PM

Stylish Resort Living www.AthertonAvenue.com

Offered at $1,675,000

Exceptional craftsmanship and style are the foundation for this newly constructed, one-level contemporary home. Built under the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Build it Greenâ&#x20AC;? requirements of Marin County, this property offers everything for the most discriminating buyer. Five bedrooms, four full baths, a generous kitchen/great room, formal dining and living room, high-end appliances and finishes throughout, a two-car attached garage, and a laundry/mud room. Zoned for equestrian use. A huge level backyard with excellent space for entertaining, wonderful indoor/outdoor flow, and fantastic weather will leave you feeling like you are on vacation 365 days of the year!

Chelsea E. Ialeggio 415.300.6881

chelsea@sothebysrealty.com ChelseaInMarin.com Redefining Service in Real Estate

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Luxurious Family Home in Novato’s Greystone Gardens www.40dorothyway.com

$1,045,000

Sophisticatedlivinginthisnewlyremodeledhomeinsought after neighborhood, this four bedroom, three bath plus bonus room/au pair delivers in making this a home for generations to come.Formallivinganddiningareasfeaturesoaringceilingsand magicalJuliettebalcony.Brazilianhardwoodsrunthroughout tofamilyroomwithgourmetkitchen,Thermadorappliances, granite slab counters, pot filler, gas cooktop, granite island withbar,thatareallopentoexpansivefamilylivinganddining. Luxuriousmasterretreathaswalk-incloset,spa,dualvanities, and spacious shower. Truly inspired design deliver tranquil outdoor living spaces that offer privacy forthesaltwaterpool,built-inhottub, fireplace, and dining area.

G i

Keith Conaway 415.260.3437

keith.conaway@sothebysrealty.com

Kentfield Contemporary www.30Stetson.com

$1,595,000

Contemporary four bedroom, three and one half bath home on a private lot seamlessly integrates the amenities of today’s Californialifestyle.Anopenkitchenflowsintothespacious family room, yet remains separate from the formal living and dining rooms for ease of entertaining. A spacious Master withwell-appointedbathandgenerouswalk-inclosetflanks oneside,whileattheotheraretwobedroomsandanensuite guest room. The ample lot provides plenty of room toplay,withapatio,privategardens,secludedsittingareas, and decks with views of Mt. Tam. Located close to shops andacclaimedKentfieldschools,witheasyaccessto101and theLarkspurFerryterminal.Thishomeprovidesawelcome retreat at the end of a busy day.

Melissa Crawford 415.302.0057

m.crawford@deckerbullocksir.com

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Gorgeous 5+BR Craftsman in Kent Woodlands www.107Diablo.com $3,875,000 Beautiful 5+ bedroom, 5 bath Craftsman in the flats of Kent Woodlands. Built 2007 in prime cul-de-sac location within walking distance to market, schools and transportation. Bright, sunny with highly desirable traditional family-friendly layout. Huge kitchen and family room opening to garden, with formal living room, dining room, and office. All five+ bedrooms upstairs with separate kid’s wing and master bedroom wing with attached nursery/office. Gated and private with Mt. Tam and San Francisco Bay views.

Stunning Modern Jewel in Kent Woodlands www.650Goodhill.com $4,950,000 The property was designed in 1994 by Joseph

Esherick, famed California architect and recipient of

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the AIA Gold Medal. Sited in a private two acre oasis of lush gardens, with nature trails and waterfalls, ponds and pool, the contemporary home is spacious and bright, with 12’ ceilings and abundant glass affording breathtaking views of Mt. Tam, the surrounding hills, San Francisco Bay and East Bay.

Max Applegarth 415.298.7600 max@maxapplegarth.com

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Make every day feel like a

holiday.

♦ Beautiful one-, two- and three-bedroom condominiums for sale from $150K to over $1M ♦ Independent living in a secure community ♦ Meals, housekeeping and parking included ♦ Five-star medical facilities on site

save the date:

holiday Open House

Saturday, December 1 1:00 - 3:30 p.m. 100 Thorndale Drive San Rafael, CA 94903

View all of our available homes at www.villamarin.com

Cozy & comfortable

This charming one-bedroom home is in a great central location on the first floor with a western view from the bonus enclosed sunroom. It’s move-in ready with fresh carpet and paint. Monthly HOA fee is $2,535. For one person only. Condo #138 A Asking $160,000

Spectacular view

This one-bedroom home is located on the third floor with gorgeous eastern views. Convenient access to the north elevator. Monthly HOA fee is $2,714 for one person and $4,129 for two. Condo #351 B Asking $274,900

Bright & beautiful

This one-bedroom beauty gets bright morning sunshine through its southeast-facing windows. It’s located on the second floor with easy access to the south elevator. Monthly HOA fee is $2,554. For one person only. Condo #212 A1 Asking $189,000

415-492-2408

www.villamarin.com

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203 Santa Rosa Avenue 203 Santa Rosa Avenue Sausalito Sausalito www.203santarosa.com www.203Santa Rosa.com

Offered Offeredatat $1,595,000 $1,595,000 This magnifi cent three bedroom, three bath, view home perched a private, lot, is conveniently This magnificent three bedroom, three bath, view home on perched on protected a private, protected lot, is convelocated minutes to the Golden Gate Bridge. The open, airy feeling of its contemporary design maximizes the niently located minutes to the Golden Gate Bridge. The open, airy feeling of its contemporary design breathtaking views Richardson Bay from to Bay Strawberry, looking over the hills and the Sausalito maximizes theof breathtaking views ofBelvedere Richardson from Belvedere to Strawberry, looking over the marina.hills A 35’and living room area hasliving a fireplace flankedroom by 17’area highhas walls of glass with sliding glass theroom/dining Sausalito marina. A 35’ room/dining a fireplace flanked by 17’ high doors walls leadingof toglass a sheltered deck that spans the length of the house. This home provides an ideal California with sliding glass doors leading to a sheltered deck that spans the length of the indoor/outdoor lifestyle for Expansive views can be enjoyed from every room, including house. This homeperfect provides anentertaining. ideal California indoor/outdoor lifestyle perfect for entertaining. the breakfast room and offi ce. Expansive views can be enjoyed from every room, including the breakfast room and office. The master suite onsuite the upper level is it’s own enough forenough a sittingfor area, also with sweeping The master on the upper level isenclave, it’s ownlarge enclave, large a sitting area, also with views, sweeping fireplace,views, wet bar, and dressing area.and A sliding glass doorAopens to aglass private deckopens that feels like being fireplace, wet bar, dressing area. sliding door to a private deck on top that of the world. feels like being on top of the world. is interior at level street to side-by-side a 2 car, side-by-side garage. Two additional There There is interior accessaccess at street tolevel a 2 car, garage. Two additional bedrooms bedrooms and a full and a full “jack-and-jill” bath complete “jack-and-jill” bath complete this level. this level.

Stunning StunningViews Views Contemporary Contemporarydesign design Sophisticated SophisticatedLiving Living

Linda Mayne, Broker Linda Mayne, Broker Office 415-460-0900 Ofﬁ ce 415-460-0900 Cell 415-847-1346 Cell 415-847-1346 DRE # 00843231 DRE #00843231 mayneco@comcast.net mayneco@comcast.net mayne & company R E A L

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Looking Back

A Big Move

From Strawberry Point to Tiburon, a historic residence has had two homes. By Sophie Shulman

hree yea rs before this picture was taken in 1960 of the Lyford House in Tiburon, the structure stood on a dairy farm on Strawberry Point. It was built in 1876 and originally inhabited by Benjamin Lyford, who came to San Francisco from the East Coast with his wife, Hilarita, to practice medicine. Her father, John Reed, was the first white settler in Marin. Lyford pioneered the technique for embalming a body to be shipped overseas, though his formula was lost when he died.

In 1957, David Steinhardt, a retired surgeon, found the house in the midst of a demolition area on Strawberry Point. To save the home from destruction, he arranged for it to be barged across Richardson Bay. Rosie Verall, a reclusive woman with a small herd of goats, offered to put the house on her land. Verall, known locally as “the goat lady,” inherited the land from Hilarita Lyford’s nephew, with whom she had been romantically involved. Later, she donated nine acres and the home to the National Audubon Society, and the property is now used for tours and events; her ghost still reportedly sometimes greets nighttime visitors. In 2000, the Lyford House was added to the National Register of Historic Places and has since undergone renovations — most notably after a 75-foot cypress tree fell on its roof in December 2002. The mahogany spiral staircase escaped damage, but 90 percent of the interior walls had to be replaced. m

Courtesy of Lyford House

circa 1960

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reconnect re

Romance me Maui It´s time for a romantic getaway on Maui. Steal away amidst the beauty and enchantment of the Grand Wailea, lush Hawaiian gardens fronting the spectacular Wailea Beach. Indulging you and your significant other to a tropical retreat just got easier with Grand Wailea’s Romance me Maui package. Includes: • Five (5) days and four (4 nights) in luxurious accommodations • Duo 120-minute pampering at Spa Grande, Hawaii´s top hotel spa. • Four-course with exclusive wine-pairing dinner for two at Grand Waileas signature restaurant, Humuhumunukunukuapua´a. • Romantic turndown with Hawaiian flower petals on the bed and in the tub on arrival night • Complimentary bottle of champagne For full offer details, visit www.grandwailea.com/specials-and-packages • For reservations dial 800-888-6100 • Subject to availability. Certain restrictions apply.

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