November 2019

Coastal BOUNTY SATISFY YOUR HUNGER WITH SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, CHEF TIPS, WINE BARS AND LISTINGS FOR LOCAL RESTAURANTS

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Contents

NOVEMB ER 2019

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Features 44 All Locked Up California is still addicted to prisons.

52 Sustainable Seafood Locally caught food from the sea tastes great and makes better sense for the environment.

JOY COAKLEY

48 Facing Death Why do we avoid talking about the end of life?

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Contents

36 Fashion Mix and match for a layered fall look.

38 FYI California’s new Chief Service Officer.

40 Conversation Keeping your finances in order with James Demmert.

Destinations 67 Go Escape the cold in one of these five faraway places.

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In Marin 33 Currents Save the newts, local elections and more.

NOVEMB ER 2019

Out & About 73 Calendar A roundup of things to do in Marin and beyond.

80 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and food in the Bay Area.

90 On the Scene Snapshots from events in Marin and San Francisco.

Marin Home 97 Backstory A forever home in Tiburon took six years to update.

Noche Flamenca’s You and I at Z Space, S.F.

73

18 Editor’s Note 22 What’s Inside 130 Looking Back

For our cover image and also the opening of the table of contents, art director Rachel Griffiths worked with photographer Joy Coakley and stylist Stella Kim at Rule & Level Studio to produce these painting-like images.

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LENNY GONZALEZ (TOP LEFT); ALFRED YAN (TOP RIGHT); PETER GRAHAM (MIDDLE)

COLUMNS

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Sometimes unplugging can make you feel a whole lot more connected.

Timeless happens here.

M AUNAKE ABE ACHHOTEL .COM

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Grateful for 25 years

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

as Mill Valley’s destination jewelry store

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood

Editorial EDITOR Mimi Towle MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Jewett ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kasia Pawlowska ASSISTANT EDITOR Christina Mueller DIGITAL EDITOR Jessica Gliddon COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin SENIOR WRITER Jim Wood FASHION EDITOR Leah-Marie CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Diane Cirincione, Jeanne Cooper, Joe Eskenazi, Maria Finn, Melanie Haiken, Jerry Jampolsky, Kirsten Jones Neff, Dawn Margolis Denberg

Art ART DIRECTOR Rachel Griffiths PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French

Come celebrate with us this holiday season!

ILLUSTRATOR María Hergueta, Sam Rowe CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Marla Aufmuth, Joy Coakley, Mo DeLong, Lenny Gonzalez, Alfred Yan

Administration / Web CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh

CHIEF VISIONARY OFFICER Susan B. Noyes, Founder

80 throckmorton avenue mill valley, ca 94941 415.388.8776 w w w.sof ia jewelry.com

Volume 15, Issue 11. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine Inc. owned by Make It Better Media LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2019. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine Inc. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County.

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Advertising ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Debra Hershon, 415.332.4800 ext 120 | dhershon@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Michele Geoffrion Johnson ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Leah Bronson, ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com Lesley Cesare, ext 113 | lcesare@marinmagazine.com ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Alex French

Regional Sales Offices WINE COUNTRY Lesley Cesare | lcesare@marinmagazine.com SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA / TAHOE Leah Bronson | lbronson@marinmagazine.com NEW YORK Karen Couture, Couture Marketing | 917.821.4429 HAWAII Debbie Anderson, Destination Marketing | 808.739.2200

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Editor’s Note

Fest-of-Us

How can we learn to celebrate the passing of loved ones and see it as a positive part of life?

For me, the change of personnel (via death, divorce, moving) is felt most deeply as I unpack holiday decorations.

kicks off he holidays, we are all reminded that it’s a time of appreciating family, friends and community. Unfortunately, we can often lose focus on the part where the holidays are supposed to be fun; instead, we might pile on expectations so high we feel like a human Jenga tower. Or is that just me?

Around the county, there are food drives to make sure local at-risk families have enough to eat, toy drives run by firefighters and churches, and then there’s the kids. It’s safe to say many humans under the age of 12 are amped up with the prospect of endless sugar, school vacation and presents. However, it’s also a notoriously stressful time for many, especially if it’s the first time going through the holidays without a loved one.

For me, the change of personnel (via death, divorce, moving) is felt most deeply as I unpack holiday decorations. There’s the ceramic mini Starbucks cup that brings back my standing date with Lisa Bacino as we waited to drop off ur girls at Tamalpais Preschool (now they are off o college); the one-legged glass ballet dancer (tape never held); and the elegant handmade beaded bulbs a great-grandmother made for her tree nearly a century ago in San Francisco. And finally there’s the pine wreath from Mrs. Z at St. Hilary school. I even have a gorgeous porcelain nativity scene I erect every year in honor of my grandmother, as well as one made out of coconuts and shells from Hawaii, not because I am religious, I’m not, but because it brings back a deep sense of peace and belonging.

Basically, every ornament or knickknack connects me to loved ones.

The topic of death surprised me this summer at a lovely lunch hosted by my friend Paige Peterson. I usually don’t take the time for lunch on a weekend, but if you get an invite to one of Paige’s, say yes. One time I sat next to Jay Levy and casually learned he had discovered the

AIDS virus, and another time I was seated next to Secret Service agent Clint Hill, who climbed up onto the back of JFK’s car after he had been shot. It’s that kind of table.

At this particular meal, I sat with the Jampolskys, Jerry and Diane, frequent contributors to the magazine, including in a feature in this issue. The topic of dying came up out of the blue, and I squirmed. I didn’t want to mention that my precious dog had died the day before (huge kudos to all at San Rafael’s Pet Emergency, who made the process of letting go so gentle and loving). At lunch, sitting there in the benign beauty of a Belvedere garden, I couldn’t breathe. “This sucks,” I thought, looking for an exit.

However, I got out of my head and listened to Diane tell stories, smiling, about patients she and Jerry had worked with during the AIDS pandemic, how they trained not only the doctors but family members and entire hospital staffs to view death without so much fear or judgment.

That allowed both the Jampolskys and their dying patients to have peace of mind as their main goal and be open to the soul’s next adventure. Death is not an ending, Diane emphasized that day at the table; it’s a beginning. Absorbing this perspective, I felt a deep comfort despite our family’s loss of a treasured pet, followed by gratitude for the 12-plus years we’d spent with this creature on the planet together.

I asked the Jampolskys if they would share their experiences and findings with our readers.

They agreed, and we settled on the November issue for their story, in honor of the Mexican holiday Day of the Dead. And it didn’t hurt that it would also be a nice message for those starting the holiday season without a departed loved one.

As we start this holiday season, let’s all lift a glass and toast those souls who have shaped our lives and are no longer with us — and then let’s make another toast to the Restofus.

Mimi Towle, Editor

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What’s Inside

W

E KICK OFF features this month with a compelling look at California’s prisons and incarceration rates. Writer Joe Eskenazi asks why it is that with more than 125,000 men and women currently jailed here, this deep-blue state can’t seem to stop locking people up. He also points out that the amount paid to guards is larger than any other category of state salary spending.

We continue with a story that isn’t always people’s first choice of topic: death and dying. But maybe it should be. Writers and Attitudinal Healing founders Jerry Jampolsky and Diane Cirincione discuss how we can move beyond end-of-life fear and anxiety to focus on gratitude for all that life offers.

Finally, a writer with years of experience fishing in Alaska addresses the matter of why, even though we live right by the Pacific Ocean and the largest estuary on the West Coast, we still find imported, farmed fish here. Maria Finn (yes really, Finn) offers tips for finding local, sustainable choices — it’s better for the environment and the flavor can’t be beat.

Up front we’ve got stories on what you can find on your local ballot this November, how some locals are saving the newts, and fall fashion advice. We talk to former Novato mayor Josh Fryday, recently appointed California’s Chief Service Officer by Gov. Gavin Newsom, about goals for making public service more a part of our lives, and to Tiburon’s James Demmert, whose recent book explores how nonprofits, foundations and individuals can mitigate risk in a volatile economy. And for tantalizing winter escapes, Destinations dishes details on five exotic places far, far away from the cold. Bora Bora, anybody?

It’s a big issue covering a range of topics.

We hope you enjoy it and all the year-end activities ahead — whether close to home or off n a tropical paradise.

Daniel Jewett, Managing Editor

cover photo celebrating the bounty of local seafood, art director Rachel Griffiths called on photographer Joy Coakley and stylist Stella Kim. They all went to Rule & Level Studio to create the beautiful images you see on the cover and in the table of contents. Our staff loved how the main image looks like a painting.

Here is the crew working behind the scenes.

BLINK INC

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Contributors

María Hergueta Illustrator, “All Locked Up” (p. 44) What did you find most challenging about this assignment? What I enjoy the most about my job is the variety of assignments I get, especially learning from new subjects and topics from the articles and essays I have to illustrate. I knew very little about San Quentin prison before this commission, so I watched some interesting videos I found online. There wasn’t anything particularly challenging about this commission, but it was important to me to emphasize the overcrowding in prisons and be able to reflect the feeling of lack of space in cells.

How did you initially get into illustrating?

I studied fine arts and discovered illustration the last year of school. That’s when I realized it could actually be a profession. Since then I’ve been working as a freelance illustrator, working mainly in editorial and books.

Where has your work appeared before? The New York Times, Wired, Vanity Fair and several university magazines and medical journals.

Joe Eskenazi Writer, “All Locked Up” (p. 44) What was the most interesting thing you learned from this assignment? While I’d known about the meteoric rise in prison population through the years, I had no idea how extreme it was, even within my own lifetime. Also, Professor Pfaff’s revelation that nonviolent drug criminals comprise just 15 percent of the inmate population was a real surprise.

Have you visited San Quentin? What strikes you the most about it?

I have not. I have always been surprised by the Disney-castle-like architecture of death row. What is the goal here?

Where has your work appeared before? My work has appeared in SF Weekly, the San Francisco Chronicle, San Francisco magazine and the London Guardian, among other publications. I am the managing editor and columnist for Mission Local (missionlocal.org).

Writer, “Sustainable Seafood” (p. 52) What sparked your interest in fishing? After college, I wanted to travel around the world and be a writer, so I thought I’d go work in Alaska in the canneries. The canneries weren’t hiring, so I got a job cooking on fishing boats and then crewing on an all-female salmon seining crew. My first long, hard, wet day out there, I thought, “What have I gotten myself into?” I worked in Alaska for nine years, traveling in the winter months. I came to deeply respect salmon and fell in love with the Pacific Ocean. This love has shaped my life and writing.

Favorite local fish recipe? I love to cook spot prawns over a fire at Muir Beach.

Where has your work appeared before? I’m the author of five books, including Hold Me Tight and Tango Me Home and The Whole Fish. I’ve written for Sunset Magazine, the San Francisco Chronicle, The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, Saveur, Eating Well, Women’s Health, Gastronomica, Civil Eats, Edible Marin & Wine Country and many others.

MATT PERRY (MARIA FINN)

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The moment you escaped the holiday stress.

New in Town E AT & DRIN K Soccarat, the golden crunchy rice that underpins the seafood paella, invokes the Mediterranean at San Rafael’s Revel & Roost Kitchen, located downtown in the former Atalaya spot. The buttermilk fried chicken, artichoke salad and avocado hummus, however, are pure American. revelroostkitchen.com Sausalito resident Blair Warsham is chef at San Francisco’s Wildseed, the latest entrant in the plantbased restaurant fray. Part of Adriano Paganini’s Back of the House restaurant group (Super Duper Burgers, Uno Dos Tacos), it serves impeccably sourced cocktails, two burgers and a sizable menu of shareable plates (the Belga fries are named for the former restaurant occupant) and entrees. wildseedsf.com

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COME ENJOY ALL OF OUR HOLIDAY EXPERIENCES: Thanksgiving Brunch – November 28th Tree Lighting Celebration with Santa – December 6th Frozen Holiday Tea with Princess Elsa – December 14th Christmas Brunch – December 25th

Tucked into the Red Hill Shopping Center in San Anselmo, Jillie’s Wine Bar opened quietly this summer. Jill Cordova-Holt and Michael Holt’s venture offers wines from Italy, Spain and France by the bottle, a rotating bar list of more than 20 by-the-glass choices from around the globe, and small bites like a cheese and charcuterie board and black truffle potato chips. jillieswine.com With a built-in bar, integrated lighting and sound, a disco ball and two bubble machines, Hornblower Party Trolley debuted this summer and now redefines “motorized cable car” just in time for the holidays. hornblowercablecars.com

For more information about our holiday events, visit: www.fairmont.com/claremont SHOP The Mill Valley Lumber Yard recently welcomed Mad Dogs & Englishmen, the second location of the Carmel-by-the-Sea favorite from Jennifer Blevins and her British husband, Martin. It offers unique bikes, New in Town is an ongoing bulletin on new businesses throughout the Bay Area. To be considered for future listings, email christina@marinmagazine.com.

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e-bikes, bicycle sidecars, accessories and apparel.

Shop dog E.J. is our online dog of the month for November. maddogscarmel.com Longtime local Cheryl Popp launched Sausalito Books by the Bay on the waterfront, using the same community-centric model as area CSAs to help keep bookstores both local and independent and paperbacks available. sausalitobooksbythebay.com European- and American-sourced sustainable kitchen and garden items, made without a stitch of plastic, are the focus of Sundry, the latest from Kelly Scott, who also owns and curates for The Goods in downtown Mill Valley. sundrymv.com

B E AUT Y & WE LLN ESS Trained in integrative, Eastern and Western methods, Christina Lisac opened Apricot Forest Chinese Medicine in Mill Valley to help adults and children overcome insomnia and other sleep disorders through acupuncture and Chinese herbal treatments. apricotforest.com

DESIG N Kim Eagles-Smith recently moved and rebranded his San Francisco gallery to Mill Valley, where he’s lived since 1976. Kim Eagles-Smith Gallery features rotating exhibits, represents emerging and established artists, and buys and sells work with an emphasis on modernist, abstract expressionist and Bay Area figurative art. kesfineart.com

Kim EaglesSmith Gallery

The Workroom is a Mill Valley design studio and shop where co-founders Stephanie Thill and Jennifer Tidwell offer a collaborative project workspace and a selection of furniture, custom upholstery, lighting, kitchenware and items for home decor. theworkroommv.com

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CONNECT WITH US TOP GRAM

Our top Instagram post this month is

by Nate Rogers, @natethaaaagreat.

“Before sunrise, I met up with a few friends at the trailhead. At first light, some of the heavy fog began to lift and revealed a group of elk grazing in the grass next to the trail. I felt it was a great scene to capture and the fog and early morning atmosphere provided a dreamy feel to the moment.

This entire hike was stunning all the way to the end but witnessing elk run across the fields showcased how powerful but peaceful they are. It was an unforgettable experience.” Want to see your photo in print? Tag us @marinmagazine with your best snap.

Top Five Online Stories 1 “Tupac Shakur’s Life in Marin” (September 2019) On the 23rd anniversary of his September 13 death, we look at the rapper’s short but meaningful time as a Bay Area resident.

2 What’s Hot: Presidio (September 2019) A neighborhood just over the bridge offers a plethora of new dining options.

3 “Trial Separation: Trailside Killer” (September 2019) A first-person account by the son of one of the defense attorneys working on the serial killer’s case.

4 New in Town (September 2019) The latest happenings in Marin, including the newest eateries, shops and wellness establishments.

5 Corinthian Island (September 2008) Marin’s tiniest community is a true tale of two cities.

(A Corinthian Island resident is in the news after being charged with manslaughter.)

Follow Us on Social Media Do you receive our weekly Better Letter in your in-box?

It’s filled with tips, things to do on the weekend and other fun surprises. Sign up for our e-newsletters at marinmagazine.com/newsletters and follow us online. facebook.com/marinmagazine instagram.com/marinmagazine twitter.com/marinmagazine

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9/23/19 12:30 PM

In Marin

CE L E B R AT I N G T H E PEO PL E , PL ACE S A N D C AU S E S O F T H I S U N I Q U E CO U N T Y

STROLLALONG

An interactive family walk at Bothin Marsh.

TINA TORRESAN

BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA

WHAT’S BETTER THAN spending time with your loved ones? Doing so while simultaneously being active, learning and enjoying nature — and thanks to a recent powerhouse creative/public partnership, you’ll be able to do just that. Until the start of 2020, people walking the path at Richardson Bay’s Bothin Marsh will be able to read A Stone Sat Still, a new book by award-winning children’s author and illustrator Brendan Wenzel.

Enlarged book pages have been posted near the path, beckoning passersby to look, listen and interact with the area while they learn about the stone in the book. And there’s plenty to take in — the 106-acre marsh hosts a wide range of wildlife, including over 400 species of migratory birds traveling on the Pacific Flyway. The half-mile walk is not strenuous and takes about 10 to 15 minutes to complete. marincounty.org

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In Marin / CURRENTS

Probation Help

KASIA PAWLOWSKA

Delivery Deconstructed At the end of a long workday, the last thing many of us want to do is start chopping veggies and preheating the oven. Here are some details about popular delivery services to help you decide what’s best when cooking is out of the question. K.P. Service

CAVIAR

DINE IN MARIN

DOORDASH

POSTMATES

UBER EATS

Pros

Some restaurants deliver through Caviar only.

Easy and unique category sorting options.

No service fees.

Phone ordering available.

Free delivery with DashPass subscription on orders $15 or more for $9.99 a month.

Restaurant, fast food, grocery and convenience store options. Free delivery on orders $15 or more with $9.95 monthly Postmates Unlimited membership.

Restaurant, fast food, grocery and convenience store options. Uber Rewards members can apply credit toward Uber rides or food orders.

Cons

Varied delivery fees of up to $8.99, service fees up to 18 percent. Higher order minimum for busy times.

$8.95 phone delivery fee, $6.95 online fee. A 22 percent surcharge for orders from non-partner restaurants.

11 percent service fee.

Small cart fee for orders under $12.

Varied service fee, up to 19.99 percent, for non-partner restaurants.

Small $2 fee for orders under $10; 15 percent service fee added to all orders.

For more info

trycaviar.com

415.927.9007, dineinmarin.com

doordash.com

postmates.com

ubereats.com

*Keep in mind that service fees are used to cover company operating costs and do not replace tips.

NATU RE ’S CORNE R

Save the Newts

Newts are not only cute, but they’re pretty astonishing creatures. These small salamanders can live up to 20 years, produce a strong toxin — which is only dangerous if they’re ingested — and are even fire resistant: when California newts are close to fire, their skin foams up and crusts over, creating a protective insulation from the flames. While statewide they are not protected, they are considered a “species of special concern,” and local ones are in trouble. Every winter newts migrate from the Chileno Valley hills to Laguna Lake, where they breed, but they have to cross Chileno Valley Road in order to do so. After seeing dozens of dead newts smashed by cars on the road, Chileno Valley residents Sally and Mike Gale decided to act, starting the Chileno Valley Newt Brigade. The group consists of volunteer environmentalists, scientists and North Bay residents who will be helping the newts this season, ferrying them across the road during peak migration time. Similar efforts have been taking place in New York’s Hudson Valley for over 10 years. K.P. ISTOCK/TOP VECTORS (BOTTOM)

In September of this year the County of Marin received a large grant to help expand restorative justice services. Restorative justice helps offenders take responsibility for their wrongdoings, make it right for those hurt or affected, and engages the community in helping both the victim and the offender. The program acknowledges that those convicted need healing as well. Another benefit is the possibility of more case resolutions outside of courtrooms. The probation department, the district attorney’s office and the public defender’s office all collaborated on procuring the three-year $439,515 grant. Research shows that restorative justice reduces recidivism, saves counties money and results in positive outcomes for those directly involved. New legislation in California is expanding the role of restorative justice, and the grant will help Marin’s probation department meet the new goals set by the state.

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10/8/19 10:37 AM

Be Heard

If you live in Fairfax, Novato or San Anselmo, you have some decision making to do. On November 5 residents will have the opportunity to vote on candidates for local open council seats and local measures, including these below. marincounty.org K.P.

MEASURE E, TIBURON To maintain excellent academic programs and high-quality 21st-century education by attracting and retaining highly qualified, experienced teachers; maintaining and enhancing science, technology, engineering and math for all grades; supporting art, music and library programs; and minimizing class size increases, shall a Reed Union School District measure be adopted renewing the existing $589 annual parcel tax, providing $2.5 million annually, for 12 years, with senior exemptions, 3 percent annual adjustments, no money for administrator salaries and funds staying local?

ISTOCK

MEASURE F, FAIRFAX Shall an ordinance be adopted approving an 11-year extension of Fairfax’s special municipal services tax of $195 in the first year and increasing $5 annually to a maximum of $250 for each business occupancy and dwelling unit, raising approximately $711,000 to $912,500 annually, to: keep the local police station open 24/7; maintain/ enhance local fire services and wildfire prevention efforts; fund public works/safety projects; maintain youth/senior programs; and continue the Citizens Oversight Committee?

MEASURE M, SAN ANSELMO To restore and provide ongoing maintenance of 93-year-old Memorial Park, including replacing/repairing fields and playground equipment for safety, installing drainage, irrigation systems and new restrooms, improving senior accessibility with safe walkways, and providing picnic areas, benches and shade trees, shall the Town of San Anselmo’s measure authorizing an annual tax of $98 per residential unit, with a senior discount, or per 1,500 square feet of nonresidential use, providing approximately $500,000 annually for 30 years, with independent oversight, be adopted?

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In Marin / FASHION

Winter Trends

Get in touch with your wild side, or take a tamer approach. BY LEAH-MARIE

ANIMAL

Siviglia coat, $890; Richard hat, $305; Rampante scarf, $230, all at Luisa Spagnoli (Palo Alto) luisaspagnolistanford.com; Rosalind large link bracelet, $8,900, and Vine photo charm, $4,300, both at Rali Couture (San Francisco) ralicouture.com; Remi Leopard sneaker in tan, $150, at Vionic Shoes (San Rafael) vionicshoes.com; Gold spangle earrings in tourmaline and gold by J.A. Lindberg, $1,900, made to order at Marin Jewelers Guild (San Rafael) marinjewelersguild.com

STYLIST TIP

Mix and match the latest trends around Époque Évolution’s work-to-out dress. Layer a turtleneck under it to stay warm during winter months.

PLAID

Double breasted plaid jacket in navy plaid, $430, at Margaret O’Leary (Mill Valley) margaretoleary.com; Burmese sapphire and ruby ring, price upon request, at Sofia Jewelry (Mill Valley) sofiajewelry.com; Bentley bar cuff in blue, $132, at Crash Jewelry (Los Angeles) crashjewelry.com; Lady Maverick boot in black, $295, available at Samuel Hubbard (Mill Valley) samuelhubbard.com

Work-to-out dress in black, $238, at Époque Évolution (Mill Valley) epoqueevolution.com

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Hey Marin, Did you hear the news?

You can now shop local for Adult Use sales with ONA! (must be 21 & up)

Servicing Marin County + San Francisco

City of San Rafael License No: 2018-08-ONA Bureau of Cannabis Control: C9-0000100

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In Marin / FYI

Call to Service

A former Novato mayor is head of a new state volunteering effort aimed at building community and solving problems.

N

BY KIRSTEN JONES NEFF OVATO RESIDENT JOSH Fryday believes public service is

the most American and patriotic of endeavors. And as of September 3, the former Novato mayor has a position in Sacramento to help promote that message. In July, Gov. Gavin Newsom announced Fryday would become California’s Chief Service Officer, charged with establishing and promoting community volunteer opportunities across the state.

“In a democracy, you have a responsibility to be engaged and involved at every level,” Fryday says. “If you read the work of our founding fathers, you know that we must go way beyond our current sense of service — voting, jury duty and paying taxes — in order to have a vibrant democracy. Everyone carries responsibility; that is the way democracy works.”

Over the past year, presidential hopefuls have rolled out various service platforms built on the idea that civilian public service is essential to address our most pressing social and environmental problems.

These include Pete Buttigieg’s far-reaching New Call to Service, Elizabeth Warren’s proposed 10,000-person Civilian Conservation Corps, and many candidates’ ideas for a national Climate Corps.

In California, Newsom has openly praised and modeled himself after Sargent Shriver, the influential ’60s and ’70s politician and founder of the Peace Corps and Head Start as well as other socially minded programs. While running for governor, Newsom spoke of plans to encourage service and volunteerism and thereby make California a national model for civic engagement. Fryday caught the governor’s eye as someone suited to drive this effort, and the new post puts him in charge of California Volunteers, the state office that oversees programs like Americorps, disaster relief groups, and community corporate and nonprofit partnerships.

“Josh is a leader with a lifelong commitment to service and will be an invaluable partner as we work to increase service and volunteerism

in California,” Newsom said in announcing the appointment. Fryday grew up in Marin, aware of how living here came with privileges like a clean environment and good public schools, and he has spent his life actively giving back. As a teen he joined Amigos de las Americas and helped build an aqueduct to bring clean water to a village in the Dominican Republic. After graduating from UC Berkeley, he was a lieutenant in the U.S. Navy, stationed in Japan and at Guantanamo Bay. Returning to Novato, he joined the city council and became mayor while also working as full-time COO of NextGen Climate and then as president of Golden State Opportunity, a nonprofit assisting low-income Californians.

As Novato mayor, Fryday co-created a program with Dominican University President Mary Marcy that could serve as a template for the Sacramento work. Reimagining Citizenship provides a $100,000 Dominican academic scholarship to qualifying high schoolers who complete two summers of public service with the city. It’s a form of public-private partnership he thinks could be replicated statewide.

“We want to give young people the opportunity to serve, and also the opportunity to further their own careers and their own lives, which is something the military did for generations of Americans,” Fryday says. Since

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9/11, he notes, fewer than 1 percent of the population has registered for military service.

“I would argue that today individuals feel very disconnected from society and each other.

There’s no sense of shared experience, and that is something service has created in our country in the past.”

The Trump administration has tried to cut funding for civil service programs, unsuccessfully pushing in its last three budgets to eliminate Americorps and the Senior Corps.

Since the ’90s, when Americorps flourished,

Over the past year, presidential hopefuls have rolled out various service platforms built on the idea that civilian public service is essential to address our most pressing social and environmental problems. funding shortfalls have left tens of thousands of would-be volunteers unable to serve and needy communities across the country without a program. Here in California, Fryday and Newsom will bolster student-debt-relief stipends for Americorps volunteers and expand it and other programs into the most underserved areas. After a month on the job, Fryday says, priorities are becoming clear. “We know we will focus on civic engagement in the Central Valley and other inland communities that have historically been left behind and left without resources.”

Besides overseeing service programs, Fryday will join the Alzheimer’s Prevention and Preparedness Task Force led by California former First Lady Maria Shriver.

It teams research scientists, business and nonprofit leaders to address issues faced by an aging population (California’s older adults will increase by 64 percent by 2035). The task force “is a perfect example of our [state-level] approach,” Fryday says. “We want to engage citizens in finding solutions to our state’s biggest challenges.” m M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 39

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

James Demmert

With talk of a potential recession coming, what can nonprofits, foundations and individuals do to mitigate risk?

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A

CCORDING TO THE San Rafael–based Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership, Marin County is home to 1,543 nonprofits contributing approximately $950 million to the economy and donating the time of 115,000 volunteers to those in need. Still, even though Marin is one of the most affluent counties in the country, the Great Recession of 2008 left one-third of Marin County nonprofits running a deficit, with many still struggling to recover five years later, according to a 2013 CVNL report — over one-quarter of local nonprofits surveyed reported that they did not have a reserve. Small and midsize nonprofits are the most vulnerable of organizations during a recession, struggling to stay afloat right when services are needed most.

Now, with whispers of another looming recession swirling, nonprofits and individuals are getting prepared. Thirty-year veteran financial adviser and Tiburon resident James Demmert specializes in working with nonprofits and is founder and managing partner of Main Street Research investment advisers in Sausalito. He recently published his second book, The Sustainable Endowment, offering investment strategies for nonprofit endowments, and the Tiburon Peninsula Chamber of Commerce named him 2018–19 Citizen of the Year, citing his firm’s philanthropy and his personal dedication to the community. We asked him to comment more about the financial landscape of nonprofits and foundations.

What is the most important thing a nonprofit or foundation can take from your book? New generations don’t remember that in 2008 [many] people lost 50 percent of their wealth.

There are a couple chapters about how foundations can mitigate the risk of catastrophic decline. It reminds people that markets go in cycles and every seven or eight years you get horrendous declines. That’s one thing if you’re an individual — not a good thing, of course — but if you’re a foundation and your assets fall 30, 40, 50 percent, a few things go wrong: one, you can’t give as much money away; two, your donors get really upset and typically stop donating; and three, if your value falls and you are still sending money out, your recovery time takes twice as long because your asset base is being nicked away as you try to recover. There is a cataclysmic amount of bad stuff hat happens. I call this the “ugly math” of catastrophic decline. But there are tools you can use to mitigate loss.

What types of alternative investments do you suggest for nonprofits and foundations when the stock market is volatile? Given the potential downside risk in stocks historically, foundations and nonprofits should avoid being in 100 percent stocks at any time. Alternatives such as bonds and real estate investment trusts, as well as defensive stocks (less vulnerable to economic downturns) such as utilities, can protect the assets from being fully exposed to the stock market, while generating positive rates of return. Foundations and nonprofits, like with family wealth, should determine their required rate of return and invest accordingly. This rate of return should be a result of determining annual expenses and withdrawals and the effect of inflation over time.

If your value falls and you are still sending money out, your recovery time takes twice as long because your asset base is being nicked away as you try to recover.

Do you have any specific recommendations for an election year? Historically, election years are positive for stock market returns. However, investors should be careful to not have expectations based on that statistic alone. In our view, the upcoming election year should be viewed through the lens of what’s happening with the global economy and policy makers. The global economy has slowed quite a bit over the last 18 months and many investors and the media fear a recession is in the offing — recessions bring about the worst in stock markets: think 2008 (with minus 50 percent losses). However, our research suggests M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 41

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In Marin / CONVERSATION

the odds of a recession are quite low over the next 12 months. Keep in mind that stocks today are pretty much at the same level they were 18 months ago, which reflects quite a bit of the recent slowdown in the economy and corporate profits. Fed policy and the potential for a mitigation of the tariff ar may make

The older generation gives back more. I would like to see younger generations give more. stocks the winner in 2020, particularly companies that can deliver consistent growth, such as technology, health care and consumer staples. We would be wary of long-term bonds as interest rates may rise at some point in the coming election year, and we favor real estate investment trusts with a focus on health care, technology and storage.

By law, foundations are only required to give away 5 percent of their wealth. What is the justification for this low percentage?

Though the 5 percent figure may sound low, we think it is a practical number based on historic financial market returns and [the task of] managing these funds in a prudent manner. Foundations and nonprofits have a fiduciary duty to protect these assets while pursuing risk to grow the assets. We [advisers] also have a similar fiduciary duty. If you consider that the long-term annual return of stocks is approximately 9 percent, the 5 percent withdraw rate, plus annual administrative expenses and inflation, is attainable without taking undue risk. One of the biggest mistakes we have seen over the past 30 years is a result of endowments or families taking undue risk — particularly having too much stock exposure at the wrong time. All investors should take risk management more seriously to avoid getting hurt in the next inevitable, and highly unpredictable, big drop in stock markets. We do this for foundations and families by being flexible about the allocation to stock exposure, using alternatives such as bonds, and employing risk management 42 N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 M A R I N

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M I L L

VAL L EY

tools such as stop-loss orders. Stop-loss orders automatically sell securities before declines become catastrophic. By employing these kinds of risk management strategies and tools, investors can be prepared for unexpected and significant risk and sleep well at night.

As someone who works closely with our local nonprofits, how would you say Marinites are doing in terms of giving? I feel like we can do better. We have pockets of underserved areas — like Marin City — that need more attention.

People may give back more here in Marin than in other places, but it’s still not enough. The older generation gives back more. I would like to see younger generations give more. There are some parts of Marin where people are maybe too obsessed with what they have and are unwilling to give back. We always try to inspire families who are clients of ours to give back. Try to create a culture and a process of giving back to the community, and you gain the satisfaction of being good community members. We are doing OK, but I think we can do better.

How did you become a financial adviser? I am from upstate New York. I was lucky, my parents sent me to boarding school even though they could barely afford it, and that got me into a better college. I went to Harvard and when I was there as an economics major, math minor, I decided to do an internship. This was 1985, when internships were unusual, but I chose to do it at an investment firm called L.F. Rothschild. That was a life-changing moment.

That got me inspired and I worked there for two and a half years while I was still in school.

When I got out of college, I already had my licenses, so it was a great head start.

What brought you to the West Coast? It was 1987 when I graduated from college, the year the movie Wall Street was popular. All of my graduating class was going to New York and I said, “I’m going to do something different.”

My parents brought me to San Francisco when I was 14 and I thought, “This is so beautiful. When I have my own thing, I’m going to San Francisco.” I arrived here with just a suitcase. m

Book your holiday party with us today!

Contact Kristin Lehmkuhl at klehmkuhl@piatti.com

Daily Market Menus Views of Mt Tam & Richardson Bay Private Dining & Special Events 625 Redwood Hwy, Mill Valley | 415.380.2525 | piatti.com M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 43

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ALL LOCKED

BY JOE ESKENAZI

N E W S A N A LY S I S

UP Why deep-blue California, self-styled capital of “the resistance,” is still addicted to prisons.

ILLUSTRATION BY MARÍA HERGUETA

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Q

Quentin, the namesake of San Quentin, was not a saint. But, fittingly enough, he was a prisoner.

In 1824, Quentin (or Quintin), a righthand man of the Coast Miwok Licatuit tribe’s Chief Marin, was taken in battle during a failed revolt against the mission system. He was transported in chains to Mission Dolores, but his incarceration was brief: two years, “at the end of which he was set at liberty, there being no longer any doubt the whites could rely on his promises,” Californio honcho Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo told the Marin Journal in December 1874.

The rocky outcropping where Quentin suf fered his defeat and capture became known as “Punta de Quintin,” and, later, “Punta de San Quentin.” Why the ersatz canonization? Vallejo politely told the Ma r in newspaper that A ng los simply thought Latins put “San” in front of every place name.

S o it w a s a n odd conc aten at ion of events that led to this land and prison being named after this non-saint. And the oddness continues.

Nearly 200 years after Quentin’s loss on the battlefield, the prison named after him and built atop the land where he surrendered

his freedom houses more than 4,000 inmates in a facility designed to hold only 3,000. Up and down this state, more than 125,000 men and women are incarcerated — just a shade fewer than all the prisoners incarcerated in France and Germany, which together have four times California’s population.

California, self-styled capital of the resistance, is still locking people up at an alarming rate. Even lifelong state residents may be shocked to learn that between 1976 and 2006, our prison population skyrocketed from a shade over 21,000 to roughly 173,000.

And while the state’s prison population is now declining, it’s still orders of magnitude higher than in the not-too-distant past (when law-and-order Republicans were politically relevant and actually ascendant — yet even then we locked up far fewer people).

California’s decadelong inmate population decline, incidentally, came only after the U.S. Supreme Court in 2011 affirmed that conditions in the state’s overcrowded prisons were so bad it constituted “cruel and unusual punishment,” with an inmate “dying needlessly every six or seven days.”

Cruel and unusual or not, our prisons are certainly costly. Twenty-one have been built

since 1985 alone; decommissioning any of them remains a political pipe dream. This summer, our (Democratic) Legislature and (Democratic) governor handily approved a new contract awarding our state’s prison guards a raise. That added an estimated $195 million to the $5.7 billion this state was already putting into guard salaries — far and away the highest category of state salary spending.

The raise was approved 34–4 in the Senate and 75–0 in the Assembly. Democrats hold 90 of the 120 seats. A California Legislative Analyst report bluntly stated there was “no evident justification” for this raise.

“Most public-sector unions are pretty steadily Democratic,” notes Joshua Page, a University of Minnesota sociology professor and author of The Toughest Beat, a pioneering analysis of California’s prison guard union. “But the CCPOA is bipartisan. They’re perfectly happy to prop up Democrats or Republicans. Or take them out.”

In 2011, the California Correctional Peace Of f icers Association infamously posted a video on its website boasting that “of the 107 candidates endorsed by CCPOA this election, 104 were victorious.”

(Following media scrutiny, the CCPOA took that video down.)

The California prison guard union, incidentally, was born in Marin at San Quentin.

That was in 1957, and according to Page, the guards were disgusted that an obit for a colleague who’d killed himself noted that he had earned less than the guppy keepers at San Francisco’s Steinhart Aquarium. In 1957, fewer than 17,000 men and women were incarcerated in California, and the nationwide total of 195,000 prisoners was only slightly higher than the tally would be in California alone several generations later.

Both Page and John Pfaff, a Fordham Un iver sit y l aw pr of essor a nd aut hor of Locked In: The True Causes of Mass Incarceration and How to Achieve Real Re for m, say t he r ole of pr i son g u a r d unions in the nation’s imprisonment of some 2 .3 million A merica ns has been overstated. (Not in California, however.

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Up and down this state, more than 125,000 men and women are incarcerated — just a shade fewer than all the prisoners incarcerated in France and Germany, which together have four times California’s population.

They rea lly are that power f ul here, as have been the victim’s rights groups they founded and funded.)

Page sees the relationship between the guard union and California’s mass incarceration as symbiotic, rather than a situation in which the former triggered the latter.

“The CCPOA really gained their power in the mid-1990s,” he says. “But what we think of as mass incarceration started taking off in the ’80s.” Between 1982 and 1992, the union’s membership roughly tripled, from 5,000 to 15,000. By 2002, that number had doubled again, to some 30,000. It’s now closer to 40,000. “They were right there when some of the most important legislation came around,” Page says. “As the tough-oncrime regime was taking off, they really helped solidify it.”

And, lately, entrench it.

In many ways, California’s drive to mass incarceration — and cruelly and unusually crowded prisons — mirrored the nation’s.

But, this being California, we did it bigger.

To start w ith, the rise in A merica’s prison population coincided with a rise in crime. The nation’s current crime levels are dwarfed by those of the 1970s and ’80s — but, in turn, dwarf those of earlier decades.

And yet, Pfaff points out, incarceration levels shot to infinity and beyond in the 1990s, even as crime began to decline.

Why? Partly because Americans react to crime and punishment on an emotional rather than a wholly rational level. For decades, no politician suffered for espousing a tough-on-crime message. A nd in California, with our well-oiled direct democratic system, we got to vote on a lot of it.

As such, in 1994 we approved Proposition 184, our “three strikes” law. And in case

you’re wondering, there is no scientif ic reason why a third felony ought to trigger a lengthy sentence. “They literally thought it was catchy because of the baseball analogy,” Page says. (In our national pastime’s primordial days, it actually required four strikes to register an out; had that rule stuck, the ramifications on the criminal justice system could’ve been significant.)

Prior to a 2012 ballot proposition, that third strike — triggering a mandatory term of at least 25 years — needn’t even have been a violent felony. California’s was one of the harshest three-strikes laws in America; UC Berkeley law professor Franklin Zimring estimates our state was responsible for more than 90 percent of three-strikes sentences nationwide.

The “tough on crime” attitude extends to the death penalty as well. After a failed effort by voters to abolish the death penalty in 2016, Gov. Gavin Newsom announced a moratorium on it in March, citing its high cost among other factors. But the question remains open: the California Supreme Court has refused to block capital cases, and San Quentin’s death house may yet be reassembled under a future administration.

So, we voted for all that. And we voted for district attorneys who prosecuted more and more cases as felonies. California DAs became immensely more powerful when “determinant” sentencing became state law in 1977. Open-ended sentences (indeterminate sentences with no fixed time spelled out) were largely curtailed, and prosecutors, rather than judges, were essentially given control of sentencing decisions — right in the midst of a national crime wave.

“That put a ton of power in the hands of prosecutors,” Page says. “They could use

severe sentencing laws to hammer people and get plea bargains.” And 19 out of 20 criminal cases are handled via plea bargains.

The pendulum has only begun to swing the other way. But it’s not swinging commensurately hard. Proposition 47 in 2014 reclassified nonviolent property crimes as misdemeanors, and California has, for all intents and purposes, legalized marijuana, but as Pfaff has written extensively, undoing the misbegotten legacy of the drug war, while potentially meritorious, will not ma ke much of a dent in the prison population totals.

You might be surprised to learn that only around 15 percent of America’s prisoners are doing time for a drug rap; polls reveal Americans guess it’s closer to 50 percent.

A full 25 percent of American inmates, however, are in for murder, sexual assault or manslaughter. Around 55 percent, Pfaff has found, are imprisoned for violent crimes.

And this is where the story of Quentin — the man, not the prison — may be illustrative. He was imprisoned for the violent crime of taking up arms in an insurrection.

But he was, for good or ill, rehabilitated.

He was released af ter a sane amount of time ser ved. He subsequently ea r ned a living sailing General Vallejo’s barge from Sonoma to Yerba Buena, later known as San Francisco.

No real solution to prison overcrowding can be accomplished merely by ushering out nonviolent and/or drug criminals. At some point, Pfaff notes, you’re going to have to take a different approach to violent crime and violent felons. And that’s a politically fraught thing to do. Even in a state where the Democratically controlled Legislature didn’t just vote by a 109–4 count to give the prison guards raises without any “evident justification.” As this one did.

“In a general sense, we’re very supportive of criminal justice reform,” says San Francisco state Sen. Scott Wiener, one of the four lawmakers to vote against the guards’ raises. “But when we get to specific proposals” — and with this, he sighs — “the politics get very hard.” m

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Fa c i ng Death LOCAL AUTHORS AND AT TITUDINAL HEALING CO-FOUNDERS ASK WHY DO WE SO OF TEN AVOID THINKING AND TALKING ABOUT THE END OF LIFE?

BY J E R RY J A M P O L S KY A N D D I A N E C I R I N C I O N E I L LU ST RAT I O N BY SA M ROW E

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A man named Bill once told us that every single morning when he opened his newspaper, the first place he looked was the obituaries. We assumed he was wondering whether someone he knew had passed, but he quick ly corrected us. “Oh no! I read the obits every day just to be sure that my name is not there!”

We all know that we are going to die someday, but unlike Bill, few of us consciously think about dying, and often we avoid talking about it or planning for it. Why is that? What are we afraid of?

There is an underlying fear shared by many of the whole subject of death. We may not even recognize our own avoidance until someone close to us is sick and possibly facing his or her own death. When someone we love dies or when we are close to death ourselves, it’s normal to have all the feelings associated with fear of loss. Underlying that fear, and actually all fears, is the fear of separation from something or from someone.

Think about it. When you are feeling fear for any reason, ask yourself the simple question, “Who or what am I afraid of being separated from?” Your answer could help you begin a process of alleviating the paralysis of fear and replacing it with a clearer, honest view of what you are really facing and feeling. It could be loss of financial security, loss of a loved one, loss of a job — all fears of such events are rooted in that fear of separation.

DISCUSSING

It is our experience that even those with strong religious beliefs, ideas meant to prepare us to face the end of life, an afterlife or even reincarnation, can find it difficult to talk about death. Many who are not religious but consider themselves spiritual also find ways to sidestep the topic. Agnostics are not sure there is anything after death and atheists are quite positive there is nothing — that death is the end of the line. With all the myriad beliefs about the afterlife or lack thereof, the only thing everyone can agree upon is that you have to die to get there.

It’s noteworthy how rarely death is talked about in our homes and in our communities. The subject touches us on emotional, physical, psychological, spiritual and metaphysical levels. Because many of us have fears about dying, we often treat it as taboo for discussions.

And yet: at a recent luncheon for 12 on the Belvedere Lagoon, one guest of fered the following question for

consideration: “What are your thoughts about death?” Not surprisingly, each well-pondered response differed from the others. Some of the guests may have been surprised by their own answers, but all seemed to feel positively about the fact that the subject was brought up.

PL ANNING

Some people evade the subject of their own death by not having a will or trust nor financial and medical directives to follow if they are incapacitated or die. We decided to use LegalZoom. com as an economical and efficient way to handle our affairs.

Most of us have heard someone say, “After I die, I don’t care.

Let everyone else deal with it.” That may sound hostile or unfeeling toward the survivors, but deep down such remarks generally spring from fear and avoidance, an unresolved relationship with one’s own mortality.

“As a boy, I remember vividly, I saw that my parents feared death and suffered greatly from this their entire lives. While leaving a funeral, my father would always wash his hands with a hose at the cemetery. When I asked why he did that, he shared his belief that washing his hands would prevent him from being the next one to die. I picked up some of my parents’ fears, which lasted until 1975. It was then that I was guided to start the first Center for Attitudinal Healing, in Tiburon, for children facing critical, life-threatening illnesses, realizing that I still carried a lot of fear about my own death. My work with these children, who were facing death head-on, helped me to recognize and to heal my own fear and to prepare me to die in peace. I will always be grateful to them.” — Jerry “In a head-on approach to the reality of living and dying, my amazing mother, Phyllis Cirincione Girard, initiated what is affectionately known in our family as The List.

Whenever any of us visited her in the decades before she passed, she would take note of a comment about any item in her home and invariably say, “Put it on The List. You

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may not get it in the end, but at least I will know to consider you because you like it.” In our hearts we never wanted her to die, so we joked with and cajoled with her for years about her list. After a decade or so, she gradually wore us down and we participated. I can remember her saying that she did not want her kids to fight over a saltshaker and that she would name the destination of everything she owned before she died. Well, let me tell you, as her executor, what a favor she did for us all. In her own caring way, our beloved mother prepared each of us for her death and gave us much to consider about our own. Her transition at 94 was beautiful and filled with peace and connectedness, surrounded by all who loved her.” — Diane

One woman we remember well had stage 4 cancer and was told by her doctor in June that she had only two or three months to live. The woman said, “This isn’t possible. My daughter is getting married at Christmastime and I am going to attend her wedding.” As it turned out, shortly thereafter, her physician died of a coronary, but the woman lived to see her daughter married.

CHOOSING

There is something quite poignant about entering the last decades of our lives. There is a renewed sense of time, and whereas we cavalierly crossed off the seemingly endless days from our calendars in the past, the current days become more and more precious. It often seems that somewhere along the way we come to a fork in the LET TING GO road of choices on how we are going to Our work in Attitudinal Healing, which FEW OF US live the rest of our lives. began in 1975, demonstrates the many CONSCIOUSLY THINK One choice follows our fears of stagbenefits we experience when we let go nation, of being diminished physically, of the judgments we’ve made about ourABOUT DYING, AND emotionally, mentally and, consequently, selves and others, often because of our OFTEN WE AVOID spiritually. As we experience loss and unhealed relationships. Forgiveness TALKING ABOUT IT OR being “less than,” our fears can culmiplays an essential role in our ability to experience peace of mind and, clearly, PLANNING FOR IT. WHY nate in not only the fear of death, but the paralyzing fear of the experience of dying. it is peace of mind that we want when IS THAT? WHAT ARE Thus, we often close our hearts like a forwe are dying. tress to secure against further loss and to WE AFRAID OF? protect what we do have.

KNOWING The other choice is cultivating a renewed sense of gratitude Some people have some foresight regarding their destiny with death. Eleven-year-old Paul Johansen was in the hos- for all that life has offered on the journey of learning and therepital very close to death from advanced cancer and he hadn’t fore growing past our perceived limitations. We have stopped eaten in several days. He suddenly woke up and asked for a holding on to grievances, suspended judgments on others, and Big Mac and then shared his dream. He was talking to God striven to forgive all that holds us negatively to the past. This and asked if he could stay here a littler longer because he frees us to live fully in love and appreciation in the present. We wanted to help other people who were facing death like he have a more contented sense of self, all the while remaining open to how we can be helpful to and acknowledging of others was. God said that it could be arranged.

His energy and appetite returned and he truly felt that he as well as the generations that follow us.

As our number of days inevitably grows shorter, it feels had good reason to be alive a little longer. Not long thereafter, 60 Minutes was doing a segment on our first Center for like going with the latter choice — to forgive unconditionally, Attitudinal Healing and they decided to feature Paul and to be grateful for everything, to love fully, and to be truly another boy, Tony Bottarini. The result was that millions of present wherever we are — truly serves us well. m viewers, both inside and outside the U.S., were inspired by Paul and Tony’s desire to be helpful to others. Paul’s legacy Gerald G. Jampolsky, M.D., and Diane V. Cirincionewas the message that as long as he was alive, it was his job to Jampolsky, Ph.D., are co-founders of Attitudinal Healing International (ahinternational.org), which has centers in 31 be helpful and loving to others.

Indeed, it seems our attitudes can change everything and countries on six continents. They are co-authors of numereven possibly impact how long we live. Motivation inspiring ous bestsellers, including A Mini Course for Life, Love Is the Answer, and Change Your Mind — Change Your Life. the will to live can oftentimes be beyond measure.

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PHOTO CREDIT

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Locally caught seafood is not just the environmentally friendly choice; it tastes better too.

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD

PHOTO CREDIT

{ B y M a r i a Fi n n • P h o t o s b y M a r l a A u f m u t h }

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Marin County is bordered by the Pacific Ocean, with its nutrient-rich, cold-water upwellings, and the San Francisco Bay, the biggest estuary on the West Coast.

We should be a seafood-savvy region, but walk into many restaurants or grocery stores and you’re likely to find farmed salmon from Chile or Scotland, shrimp and tilapia from Asia or other imported seafoods of quality far inferior to what we harvest in our own backyard.

Imported seafood is cheaper and farmed sea food is reliably ava ilable yea r-round, whereas many of our local, wild species are seasonal. You may pay more for the quality: our fishermen and women often live in Marin and elsewhere in the Bay Area, so their living and operating costs are higher than in countries that rely on cheap or slave labor to produce seafood.

The West Coast of the United States sets standards in sustainable practices that the rest of the world would do well to emulate. Our fishermen and women are limited in when and where they take fish and how much they are allowed to catch. They collaborate with scientists and environmental groups to keep our waterways healthy. Many other nations often have very low or no environmental standards — some places still dynamite fish and chase tuna with helicopters and drop bombs on them. With no observers on board, the bycatch, or species unintentionally caught and discarded — including whales, turtles and seabirds — is estimated to be 43 billion pounds a year globally. That’s far less of a problem with most fisheries here.

Local fishermen and women use gear like hook-and-line or baited traps, they fish in designated areas, and some have observers on board to monitor bycatch. By eating local seafood, we not only eat sustainably and help the ocean, but also support our local fishermen and women, who in turn spend their money in our community. We also get the pleasure of eating the freshest, highest-quality seafood available

while enjoying a visceral connection to our natural world. Here are simple routes to doing just that.

GO LOCAL

Ask your server or fishmonger, “What’s local?”

If they know the name of the fishing vessel it came from, even better. Nick Krieger, who lives in Strawberry, grew up in Bolinas and

owner of Fradelizio’s, Paul, drives to Bolinas and buys straight from the boats. He gets a good price and his customers get a great product.”

HEED THE SEASON

While everyone in Marin knows when asparagus season ends and tomato season begins, there’s a lot less known about the best times for sand dabs and salmon. And while “organic” tells you something about your produce and “pasture raised” about your eggs, those labels don’t apply to seafood. If it’s in the middle of the winter and there’s no wild king salmon, order local black cod instead — it’s richly delicious and has even more omega-3 than salmon.

“Pick a few local favorites and learn the seasons and origin,” advises Kelly Collins Geiser, who heads Slow Food San Francisco and organized Slow Fish there a few years back. “Halibut and salmon in the summer, crab in the winter, and lingcod spring through fall. If it’s not local, make sure it’s domestic and buy frozen.” Her home in Petaluma is a pickup site for the Gypsy

It takes three pounds of ocean forage fish to produce one pound of farmed salmon, and 22 pounds of ocean fish to produce one pound of tuna. in summer still teaches at a surf camp there when he’s not running his salmon sportfishing charter company or heading offshore to commercially pot-fish for black cod or Dungeness crab. With pot fishing (using a baited trap) rather than using nets or hooks, there’s virtually no bycatch. “Most of what I catch goes to Scoma’s and Fish Restaurant in Sausalito and the Coast Cafe in Bolinas,” he says. “This year the halibut bite in the San Francisco Bay and king salmon catches out off Duxbury Reef have been so strong that the prices are low and fish plentiful. Restaurants that don’t sell local seafood are really just lazy,” he adds. He also likes Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes and Fradelizio’s Ristorante in Fairfax for local seafood. “The

Fish Company, founded by Christopher Wang, a California fisherman who travels to Bristol Bay each summer to catch sockeye salmon, which he cuts into dinner-size portions, freezes immediately, and then delivers to drop sites throughout the year. “Frozen is often more fresh than fresh,” Collins Geiser notes. The process of freezing keeps the fish intact and healthy, whereas a “fresh” fish, local or not, may spend three to seven days at the bottom of a boat, one to three days in a warehouse, one day in transport, and one to four days in a market or restaurant. By the time you get it, it’s not so fresh anymore. “This is why buying directly from the fisher and understanding the seasons makes everything more delicious,” she adds.

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THINK SMALL

ISTOCK/VLADA YOUNG

Little fish like herring, mackerel, anchovies and herring are sustainable choices because they’re low on the food chain. By contrast, the farmed tuna or salmon that consume these little fish have a high conversion rate: it takes three pounds of ocean forage fish to produce one pound of farmed salmon, and 22 pounds of ocean fish to produce one pound of tuna.

Smaller fish are also full of omega-3s and low in mercury and PCBs. Yet even though herring and anchovies live in the bay and smelt are along the coast, these aren’t always easy to find in stores and restaurants. Kirk Lombard, aka Sea Forager, leads tours teaching people how to harvest local seafood, has written a book on the subject and stocks CSF (community supported fishery) pickup boxes with local choices around the Bay area (including at the New Village School in Sausalito). He sings the praises of the night smelt and surf smelt: “These you might see in a restaurant as ‘fries with eyes.’ But, Americans really don’t eat small fish,” he adds.

“They want a big piece of protein with no bones.

If this was Denmark, when the herring arrive each winter, they wouldn’t call it January, but rather, ‘herring time.’ ” But while Bay Area fishermen “catch herring by the tons, there’s only one buyer in the area, and he sends them to the Central Valley to get processed and shipped to Japan. There’s just not a system to get them to local chefs.” He recommends catching your own fresh herring in the bay — follow him on twitter @seaforager to learn when — and buying live anchovies behind Scoma’s in S.F. at Pier 47: get the small scoop for $20 cash and fry them up for dinner or preserve them in salt and lemon. The Herring Festival in Sausalito, held every winter to raise funds for the Sausalito Community Boating Center, is another place to sample little fish.

A GREAT CATCH { w i ld s e a fo o d} Coon-Striped Shrimp

YEAR ROUND

May through October

Rockfis Petrale Sole

S U M M E R T O FA L L

Black Cod

May through October

King Salmon

Albacore Tuna

Sand Dabs

June/July through October

SPRING TO E A R LY FA L L

White Seabass June to October

Lingcod California Halibut

FA L L T O W I N T E R

Dungeness Crab

November through April

Herring –

Anchovies

May through October {S.F. Bay}

December through March {S.F. Bay}

out naturally occurring algae so that sunlight reaches the bottom of the bays where eelgrass grows. That’s habitat for crab, herring and other creatures. Hog Island Oyster Co. in Tomales Bay has been working with UC Davis Bodega Bay Marine Laboratory to monitor acid levels and temperature changes in Tomales Bay and with UCSC scientists to plant and monitor seagrass that pulls carbon out of bay water, making it slightly less acidic. In 2018, the owners of Salt Point Seaweed launched a pilot program with Hog Island Oyster Farm to collaborate on cultivating culinary seaweed among the shellfish beds, which might also sequester carbon and mitigate acidification. “Our strategy has always been to minimize our impact,” Hog Island coowner Terry Sawyer adds. “Oysters require virtually no inputs like fertilizer and fresh water to start with. We want to study and understand our impacts and improve every year.”

Market Squid

April through October {Monterey Bay}

Spot Prawns

Early spring and fall

Mackerel

December through March {Coast}

{fa r me d} OYS T E R S , M U S S E L S , C L A M S

These are available year round, though sometimes winter rains will shut down harvest for a few weeks. The adage that oysters are only good during months with an “R” in them comes from a time when there was no refrigeration.

If you keep them cool, they do fine.

During summer spawning season you may find a milky liquid inside A BA LO N E

There are abalone farms in Central California that have the shellfish ear round. Wild abalone are no longer available for recreational harvesting due to low North Coast numbers.

G E T R E G E N E R AT I V E

TROUT

Regenerative foods aren’t just sustainable; they improve the habitat where they’re produced.

Oysters, clams and mussels, for example, filter

Trout are freshwater fish that a e cultivated inland and available year-round.

DIVERSITY

Tr y something new. Uni f rom purple sea urchin, shortspine thornyhead, coon-striped shrimp, McFarland Springs trout, smoked mussels — there are many more fish in the sea than we see on most menus. If you check the specials board at Fish restaurant in Sausalito, you might well find salmon roe on snap pea salads or fish skin chicharrones dusted with fennel pollen.

Executive chef Douglas Bernstein has tips for getting seafood into a diet in creative ways: “Roast or char fish bones, like black cod, and make a broth out of it for dashi. Use seaweeds in your salads for ocean minerals. Sand dabs are great — pan-sear them until they are crispy and they come right off the bone. Serve them over farro salad with almonds and fresh herbs and winter squash and finish with lemon and pickled onion.” And local wholesaler TwoXSea now sells sustainably farmed McFarland Springs trout, which have an algae-based diet so no fish are taken from the ocean to feed them.

With so many choices and industry pioneers in our midst, it’s easier than ever to feed ourselves and our community in sustainable ways. m

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PROMOTION

201 9 R E STAU R A N T P RO F I L E S

Kitchen Tips

November to December, high season for parties and get-togethers, calls for a lot of cooking.

We asked some of our partner chefs and restaurant people, whose profiles appear in the following pages, how they rise to the occasion, whether it’s a quick meal at home or a last-minute fete.

Joseph Offner, executive chef at The Trident/Ondine Events A good meal always starts with quality ingredients.

Build a relationship with your butcher and fishmonger and they will give you the best cuts and freshest fish. Second, use brines and marinades. They impart flavors and improve the tenderness of the final product.

Luis Martinez, chef at Vin Antico When I cook at home, I make extra caramelized onions to have on hand for the week. It’s perfect for adding to sandwiches, omelets, pasta or pizza. They are an easy way to enhance the flavor of a simple weeknight meal.

Julian Colli, chef at Piazza D’Angelo It’s always a good idea to think ahead on what sort of pasta shapes to pair with your sauces. For instance, pappardelle or a thin flat pasta is great with ragus and Bolognese so you can have enough pasta for the sauce.

Spaghetti is great with carbonara, as it doesn’t overpower the sauce and dry it out.

Roland Passot, chef at Left Bank Brasserie Get a great chicken at the farmers market from Mark at Devil’s Gulch. Add a bunch of thyme and some garlic, salt and pepper to the chicken’s cavity. Lift the skin from the back of the breast and rub with butter and some minced fresh herbs. Make a bed of roughly chopped turnips, parsnips, carrot and rutabaga. Roast at 375°F for an hour or until the juices run clear. Let the bird rest for a few minutes while you open a bottle of pinot noir. Serve with a salad or mashed potatoes. Then serve cheese!

Daniel Tellez, executive chef, Copita Tequileria y Comida When making fresh masa for tamales, add a pinch of baking soda to the masa. It makes them fluffy instead of dense.

Donna Seymour, owner at Cucina SA A quick and easy tip for making a great entree on short notice: get a beautiful piece of fish like a side of salmon or halibut and turn the oven up hot, hot, hot. Roast the fish until it’s almost cooked through. Remove

the fish from the oven and coat with a crust of panko breadcrumbs, spices, salt and pepper. Then finish in the oven until golden.

Serve with lemon wedges.

Erin Miwa, co-owner at Comforts Around holiday time when friends visit or we want something easy, I’ll make a familystyle chirashi sushi and bring home some store-bought roast chicken to accompany it.

Chirashi sushi is mixed vegetable, egg and whatever leftovers you want to add to it.

José Carillo, chef at Boo Koo We rarely throw away produce, as we use the ends and stalks to make our vegetable broth and utilize the stalks of herbs to juice them for our salad dressings and marinades. The easiest and most flavorful way to drop fat content in sautéing is to replace at least 50 percent of typically used oils with vegetable broths and herbal juiced infusions.

Gave Charpentier, executive chef/partner at Bungalow 44 In my house I make the pies. I make extra pie dough and make

potpies with the leftovers. A turkey dinner has everything you need for potpie: turkey, gravy, veggies and mashed potatoes for the top. Bake at 350°F until the potatoes are light brown. You can even add a touch of cranberries.

Ben Balesteri, executive chef at Poggio White truffles make everything better.

With a little butter, it’s the perfect pairing for fresh pasta. Look for a firm white truffle with no blemishes and a strong aroma.

With a truffle shaver from Williams Sonoma, shave as thin as possible just before serving.

Reggie Hunter, chef at Cafe del Soul I often have a batch of cooked apples on hand, as it makes a great topping on a dessert or bowl of oatmeal, or a stand-alone treat that feels like a hug on a cold night.

I simply cut up a couple apples and sauté them in butter until they start to soften.

You can add sugar, but I opt to let the apples’ natural sweetness shine with a little sprinkle of cinnamon.

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The Trident

RESTAURA N T PRO FILES

558 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.331.3232, thetrident.net

JOSEPH OFFNER AND RICHARD ENOS Executive Chef and General Manager The Trident has a rich history as an entertainment venue and fun dining location on the Sausalito Waterfront since 1966 when originally opened by The Kingston Trio. Today the Trident continues to offer a varied, satisfying and creative menu featuring the best of seasonal local, organic, and sustainably produced ingredients that Chef Joseph Offner curates with a focus on unami and global flavors.

Long-time Marin resident and restauranteur, Rick Enos, manages the operation which includes Events Ondine, a private dining, meeting, and entertainment venue located above The Trident, boasting breathtaking panoramic views of The City, Angel Island, Alcatraz, and the Bay Bridge. Whether guests are looking for a relaxing lunch, weekday Happy Hour cocktails and appetizers, or dinner set against the glittering San Francisco skyline, The Trident is FUN dining with elevated food, beverage, and service, in a space that is original and unique.

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Copita Tequileria y Comida 739 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.331.7400, copitarestaurant.com

JOANNE WEIR AND DANIEL TELLEZ Chef and Executive Chef Copita is the vision of legendary restaurateur Larry Mindel and James Beard award-winning cookbook author and renowned chef, Joanne Weir. Located in downtown Sausalito, Copita’s Executive Chef Daniel Tellez serves contemporary Mexican cuisine in a lively, festive atmosphere. His impressive culinary resume includes time spent at Anona Neobistro, The Westin Santa Fe Hotel in Mexico City, and earlier on in his career, Tellez staged at the renowned three Michelin-starred restaurant, Quinzi e Gabrielli.

At Copita, Tellez offers inspiration from his own Mexico City roots to provide an authentic Mexican menu featuring the traditional flavors and spices of Mexico and utilizing modern techniques. The menu is 100% gluten-free. Copita’s bar program features over 120 tequilas and innovative tequila cocktails. Copita has been voted Best Mexican Restaurant in the Bay Area by 7x7 magazine and featured as one of the best Mexican restaurants in San Francisco Magazine. Copita was voted best Mexican Restaurant by Marin Magazine in 2019.

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Piazza D’Angelo

Parranga Taqueria & Cerveceria Strawberry Village, Mill Valley, CA 415.569.5009, parranga.com

RESTAURA N T PRO FILES

22 Miller Ave, Mill Valley, CA 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

FELICIA FERGUSON AND LUIGI PETRONE Owners Piazza D’Angelo, a family owned Italian restaurant in the heart of downtown Mill Valley was established in 1981 by brothers Domenico and Paolo Petrone from Calabria, Italy.

Today, the tradition continues as Domenico’s daughter, Felicia, and Paolo’s son, Luigi, carry on the family business.

Piazza D’Angelo evokes a traditional trattoria dining experience with a unique sense of home comfort.

JOSE MIGUEL SMITH Executive Chef Chef Smith’s passion for cooking was first sparked during his childhood in Mexico. His 13 years of culinary experience brings a diverse cuisine of Mexico to the table at Parranga, combining the rich tastes of his Mexican heritage with the freshest ingredients from Northern California. At Parranga, freshly made tortillas, along with hormone-free meats and non-GMO ingredients are sourced from local farms.

Cucina s|a

510 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA 415.454.2942, cucina-sa.com

ARMANDO LOPEZ AND DONNA SEYMOUR Chef and Owner Cucina s|a is a friendly neighborhood spot that has been satisfying locals and visitors for over 20 years. Owner Donna Seymour recently renovated the dining rooms, enhanced the menu and expanded the space to include a full bar with a fine selection of spirits and craft cocktails - highlighting Italian Amaros. These new offerings complement award winning dishes cooked in a wood fired oven, house made pastas, and a seasonally changing, organic-focused menu of Southern and Central Italian dishes. Chef Armando Lopez, brings fresh spins on classic dishes and innovative, seasonal fare such as goat cheese and fig salad and pan seared scallops with saffron risotto. During warmer months, guests can enjoy outdoor dining on the bridge overlooking the San Anselmo Creek. For small gatherings, an upstairs lounge is available, and the two main dining rooms are perfect for larger private functions. Cucina s|a serves lunch Tuesday-Saturday, and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

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Comforts

Bungalow 44

44 E Blithedale Ave, Mill Valley, CA 415.381.2500 bungalow44.com

RESTAURA N T PRO FILES

335 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com

GLENN, LAURA AND ERIN MIWA Owners

JASON SIMS AND GABRIEL CHARPENTIER

Comforts began 33 years ago as a small family restaurant.

Built on the success of delicious, comfort food, friendly service, and seasonal offerings, Comforts has grown into a thriving business, offering catering, take-out, a full-service breakfast, lunch and brunch, as well as holiday specials.

Husband and wife, Glenn and Laura Miwa, now pass the legacy on to daughter, Erin, and grandson, Quinn.

General Manager and Chef Along with partners PETER SCHUMACHER and BILL HIGGINS continue to lead one of Mill Valley’s favorite places for delicious food, warm service and one of the best bars in Marin. They are excited to build a new tradition in downtown Mill Valley, expanding service to include Sunday Brunch this fall. Kickin’ Fried Chicken and Waffles anyone?

Poggio Trattoria

777 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.332.7771, poggiotrattoria.com

BENJAMIN BALESTERI Executive Chef Poggio is a classic Italian trattoria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Executive Chef Benjamin Balesteri sources local ingredients from the best purveyors and highlights these quality products in the daily changing menu.

Chef Balesteri offers a menu that features soulful classics of Northern Italy including a variety of antipasti, house-made pasta, spitroasted meats, and wood-fired pizzas. Poggio offers a special Tuesday Night Supper menu, a series of family-style meals reminiscent of the Italian-American tradition. The notable wine list emphasizes vintages from Italy and Northern California. Poggio has earned multiple 3-star reviews from the San Francisco Chronicle and once again awarded a Bib Gourmand from Michelin and a Marin IJ Readers’ Choice winner in 2019. In 2019, Poggio was voted best Italian Restaurant by Marin Magazine.

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Left Bank Brasserie

Vin Antico

881 4th Street, San Rafael, CA 415.721.0600, vinantico.com

RESTAURA N T PRO FILES

507 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur, CA 415.927.3331, leftbank.com

LUIS MARTINEZ AND KELLY PHU ROLAND PASSOT

Chef and General Manager

Propriétaire/Chief Culinary Officer

Housed in a romantic antique brick building in downtown San Rafael, Vin Antico serves California/Italian inspired farm to table cuisine. Chef Martinez brings experience and passion while sourcing local organic ingredients. General Manager, Kelly Phu focuses on creating a new bar/ event space perfect for private events. “The Loft Bar” with an intimate speakeasy vibe serving craft cocktails and a sophisticated curated wine selection.

Internationally acclaimed for his exceptional French cooking, Chef Passot has designed a simple, seasonally changing, French brasserie style menu. As the New York Times says, “Left Bank Larkspur represents Chef Passot’s long-time passion for a simple, friendly place where people can drop in and just have oysters and a glass of wine, or a full brasserie experience.”

Boo Koo

25 Miller Ave, Mill Valley, CA 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com

JOSÉ CARILLO AND MATT HOLMES Chef and Owner Nine years ago, owner Matt Holmes created an urban inspired street food joint that can best be described as fresh, fun, and affordable. All entrées begin vegan. Dishes are inspired equally by the abundance of local produce and the classic recipes and cooking techniques of South East Asia. For those who desire a protein, a full gamut of steak, chicken and fish can be added to each dish for diners to create customized concoctions. Boo Koo’s inspirations and influences are immeasurable. “We are as influenced by chefs like Mai Pham (Lemongrass) and David Chang (Momofuku) as we are with Dr. Colin Campbell’s novel, The China Study. Our staff s having fun creating healthy seasonal dishes and new specials paired with the best craft beers.”

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S P EC I A L

A DV ERT I S I N G

Cafe del Soul RESTAURA N T PRO FILES

247 Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley,CA 415.388.1852

S ECT I ON

Seafood Peddler

303 Johnson Street, Sausalito, CA 415.332.1492, seafoodpeddler.com

1408 4th Street, San Rafael, CA 415.457.5400 cafedelsoul.net

RICHARD MAYFIELD AND FIDEL CHACON CHYNA KENNEDY HONEY AND REGGIE HUNTER

General Manager/Owner and Executive Chef

Owner and General Manager

Craving local, fresh-caught seafood and stunning views of Angel Island, Tiburon and Mt. Tamalpais? Located on the bay, we are a five-time winner of the Pacific Sun award for Best of Marin: Seafood Restaurant and the Marin IJ’s 2017 Best Happy Hour in Marin. Our seafood is delivered daily with an emphasis on sustainable, and ethically sourced seafood. Stop by from 4-7pm for happy hour featuring oysters and drink specials.

For 15 years, Chyna and Reggie have worked together serving quality, organic ingredients in an award-winning, one-ofa-kind quick-serve menu. She is the visionary and he is the master of daily operations. Together, with the help of an exceptional team of employees, they operate two locations and will unveil a new logo and a new look later this fall.

Maybeck’s

3213 Scott Street, San Francisco, CA 415.400.8500, maybecks.com

COURTNEY HUMISTON Wine Director/General Manager Located just over the Golden Gate Bridge, Maybeck’s is a classy and classic San Francisco restaurant in the trendy Marina neighborhood. Serving up great food (think farmers market produce, fresh seafood, housemade pasta) in a warm, convivial atmosphere, the team brings the high standards of the Michelin-starred Chefs they have worked with at the likes of Cyrus, Ame and Petit Crenn. Daily specials make it a destination, indeed. Tuesday is Local’s Night: three courses (that change weekly) for $40… wow! Don’t miss Maybeck’s world famous Beef Wellington every Wednesday, including the Ceremonial Slicing in the kitchen at 7:00.

Half price bottles of Champagne? Yes, please!

Sommelier Courtney Humiston is slinging it every Thursday all night long. Let’s meet at Maybeck’s!

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S P EC I A L

A DV ERT I S I N G

S ECT I ON

337 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA 415.454.7800, valentico.com

DUILIO VALENTI Chef/Owner Located in charming downtown San Anselmo, Valenti & Co serves farmfresh Northern Italian cuisine and small production wines in a casual yet classy setting. Everything is house made and thoughtfully sourced, from the crusty olive oil focaccia served at the beginning of your meal, to the specialty dessert made every day by Chef Valenti, a master pastry chef.

A favorite of local food lovers who value the freshness of its cuisine and impeccable service, Valenti & Co offers more than 25 wines by the glass ready to be paired with house made specialties like fresh pastas, impeccably fresh seafood, and locally raised meats. Sit at the chef’s tables by the display kitchen and see how passionately Chef Valenti and his crew prepare your meal.

RESTAURA N T PRO FILES

Valenti & Co

Angelino Restaurant

621 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com

ALFREDO ANCONA Executive Chef/Owner Chef Ancona was born in San Francisco and raised in Marin County. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After working for Don Alfonso in Sorrento, Italy and at Roy’s Bar and Grill on Maui, Hawaii, Chef Ancona returned home to the appeal of Marin County to join his family in Sausalito at Angelino Restaurant.

These experiences have helped develop a well-rounded, mature understanding of the possibilities of flavor combinations. Chef Ancona maintains a strong commitment to using local, sustainable, and seasonal ingredients in his kitchen.

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R E L A X. R E T R E AT. R E C O N N E C T. Escape to the best of Carmel Valley, designed for your pleasure.

415 West Carmel Valley Road • Carmel Valley, CA 93924 • (831) 658-3400 reservations@bernarduslodge.com • bernarduslodge.com

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Destinations

T H E L AT E ST LO C A L T R AV E L D E A L S A N D G E TAWAYS PLU S J O U R N E YS A RO U N D T H E G LO B E

WINTER ESCAPES Five faraway places to get out of the cold.

BY JEANNE COOPER, MELANIE HAIKEN, MIMI TOWLE AND KASIA PAWLOWSKA

Bora Bora

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Bora Bora

All islands have a certain mythic mystique. Isolated, enigmatic, they beg to be explored, or to be mined for storytelling — see Fantasy Island, The Blue Lagoon, Cast Away and countless other shows and movies for proof. The fascination with tropical paradise knows no bounds, and there’s no better synonym for said paradise than Bora Bora.

HISTORY Called Pora pora mai te pora (“created by the gods”) in ancient times, Bora Bora is northwest of Tahiti in French Polynesia.

Actually, the letter B doesn’t exist in the Tahitian language: when Dutch explorer Jakob Roggeveen landed on the isle in 1722 he misheard the two words. The island was a Polynesian kingdom until the French took over in 1888. In World War II the United States used it as a supply and seaplane base, storing upwards of 20,000 tons of equipment and housing some 7,000 men; the base was closed in 1946. In the 1960s the overwater bungalow concept was born here, and a great way to experience that form of heaven is at the Conrad Bora Bora Nui hotel, where the bungalows were refurbished in 2017.

ACTIVITIES A nine-hour flight from SFO lands you in a turquoise aquatic playground featuring every imaginable toy. Guests at the

Conrad, considered the crown jewel of the Hilton brand, have access to guided jet-skiing, sailing, paddleboarding, snorkeling and sightseeing tours. Other adventures include glass-bottom-boat trips, fishing and South Pacific scuba diving. While the abundant ocean life includes over 150 species of coral, 1,000 species of fish, and even sharks, none of these are considered dangerous to humans. That peace of mind continues on shore: the insects and snakes here are not poisonous, and the Conrad’s private white sand beach is the island’s longest, stretching over half a mile. For those more interested in having muscles moved for them than in doing it themselves, there’s the Hina Spa: seven bungalows and an open-air treatment space atop a verdant slope with a lagoon view called, appropriately, the Hina View.

NOT TO MISS A five-minute boat ride away is Motu Tapu, the most photographed islet in the South Pacific and home to what was once the private beach of Polynesian Queen Pomare IV. Today it’s exclusively for Conrad guests. You can book trips to explore the beaches, have private lunches, or launch from here to go snorkeling or stingray viewing.

RATES Starting rates are $690 per night including taxes and breakfast for two in a Lagoon View Suite; rates are $1,050 per night in an Overwater Villa and also include breakfast.

JEANNE COOPER (BOTTOM RIGHT)

This page: Overwater villas on Bora Bora.

Opposite: Lodging and beach fun in Tuamotus.

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Tuamotus

It’s not often that an idyllic getaway begins with a traffic jam in the airport parking lot. But in the case of Ahe — one of nearly 80 coral atolls (lagoons surrounded by reefs) and isles in French Polynesia’s Tuamotu archipelago — the hourlong flight from Tahiti lands you near a handful of boats jockeying for position at the edge of a 53-squaremile turquoise lagoon. After the exhilarating ride to Cocoperle Lodge, on one of many motu (islets) that form the atoll, willing castaways will find a welcoming committee of silvery fish, the occasional black-tip reef shark and southern stingrays.

HISTORY Claimed by France since the mid-19th century, the Tuamotus include Ahe’s neighbor of Manihi and Rangiroa, whose 558-square-mile lagoon makes it one of the largest atolls in the world. Ahe’s 550 residents, scattered across the motus, account for only 3 percent of the Tuamotu population. Some 4,000 Tuamotuans still speak the native Polynesian language, Paumotu, similar to the more widely spoken Tahitian. French is the language of education, though, so brush up on your français, or bring a pocket dictionary (remember those?); any translation apps will need to work offline.

ACTIVITIES Guests staying in one of Cocoperle Lodge’s six open-air bungalows have free use of paddleboards, kayaks and snorkel gear; for an additional fee, go fishing or snorkeling in the atoll’s lone ocean pass, teeming with marine life, or try wakeboarding or waterskiing.

Owner Franck Testud Faatau prides himself on a Survivor-inspired beach barbecue called Cocolanta, which broadens the definition of finger food to include fire-charred reef fish and fluffy sprouted coconut.

Guests can also arrange a visit to Kamoka, an environmentally sustainable operation run by a couple with Marin roots. Joshua Humbert and Celeste Brash met in the late 1980s at Redwood High School in Corte Madera; after reconnecting in their college years, they eventually began raising lustrous black pearls in Ahe’s lagoon and designing jewelry with it. Although the farm isn’t licensed as a hotel, Brash notes, guests are welcome to stay on a casual basis, with advance notice. “We ask that people pay for food and gas, and lend a hand, and that’s it,” she says.

RATES Cocoperle Lodge bungalows with private bathrooms cost $134 per person per day, including breakfast and dinner; bungalows with external bathrooms run $111 per person. It’s about half off or children ages 3 to 12. Add another $18 per adult for lunch, and plan to pay for most beverages, too.

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Belize

Imagine slowing down time and inhabiting an intimate island where your only neighbors are your traveling companions, exotic birds and attentive caretakers who prepare your meal, pour your wine or chop a fresh coconut. Sheltered behind the world-famous Belize Barrier Reef, Coral Caye is a completely private island that can be yours alone for a romantic, restorative or adventurous getaway. The twoacre isolated, private island is a 25-minute boat ride from Turtle Inn, both of which are part of Francis Ford Coppola’s Hideaways collection. The island features a coral sand beach and fascinating mangrove ecology. Once used as a commercial fishing camp, it has now been enhanced for travelers who want a once-in-a-lifetime experience in a place with lovingly preserved natural local flavor.

HISTORY In this Caribbean Sea setting, with panoramic views of the sunrise, stars and a few smaller cayes, guests feel a million miles away, though they are only 25 minutes away from the shoreline of Placencia, Belize. The island was acquired by the Coppola family in fall 2016 and feels like an extension of the charming, barefoot elegant experience of Turtle Inn. ACTIVITIES Fishing rods, canoes, snorkeling equipment and musical instruments are just a few of the on-island amenities provided on Coral Caye. Guests can do as much or as little as they please in complete privacy and solitude with customized experiences (at extra charge) such as alfresco massages or a guided fishing tour.

RATES Prices start from $1,899 per night for two guests and $200 additional per person for more than two guests. Rates include all meals and the round-trip boat transfer between Coral Caye and Turtle Inn.

St. Barth

Dipping so low it appears to ruffle the hair of bystanders below, the Tradewinds Air 12-seater slips onto St. Barth’s tiny airstrip, confirming descriptions of this landing as one of the “most exhilarating” and “scariest” in the world. But from that point forward all worry vanishes, as this tiny Caribbean island proves its status as one of the chillest island hideaways around.

HISTORY Named by “discoverer” Columbus for his brother Bartolomeo, St. Barth (officially St. Barthélemy) was passed back and forth between French, British and Swedish colonists for 300 years, all the while providing a hospitable hangout for pirates plundering Spanish galleons. Today, with the official status of a French state, it retains a decidedly Old World vibe despite making headlines for celebrity high jinks during the holiday high season.

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Clockwise from top: Coral Caye in Belize; infinity pool in El Salvador; a private deck at Hotel Manapany in St. Barth.

ACTIVITIES St. Barth doesn’t overwhelm with places to go or things to do. In fact, your biggest decision will be choosing among the island’s more than 10 powdery sand beaches. Rebuilt from the ground up to embody its historical role in St. Barth’s early bohemianism, Hotel Manapany opened in April 2018 celebrating a return “back to the roots of St. Barth.” From its open-air spa and bleached-wood yoga pavilion to the 42 color-splashed suites that stairstep up the hill, every aspect of Manapany’s decor and service reflects je-ne-sais-quoi simple and understated sophistication.

RATES Manapany’s Ocean Deluxe Suites start at $600 weekday and $710 weekend with seasonal discounts and packages available, while the fiveperson Villa Creole will set you back $2,300 a night. Breakfast included.

El Salvador

Beloved for the string of right-hand point breaks that stud the craggy shore, the area known as the Balsalmo Coast boasts two world-class waves, Punta Mango and Punta Roca, and 300 days a year of excellent surfing conditions. But if you’re coming in search of a less adventuresome beach vacation, El Salvador has that on offer as well, with secluded coves, warm water and a tropical climate all year long. One of the prettiest and most private beaches is El Zonte, where two-year-old boutique hotel Palo Verde scales the bluff ust steps from the sand.

HISTORY Since the end of its brutal 12-year civil war in 1992, El Salvador has struggled with poverty and violence, its economy so devastated that currently 17 percent of the country’s GDP comes via remittances from Salvadorans living abroad — including many here in Marin. In addition, the country’s international image has been tarnished by scenes of migrant caravans heading for the U.S. border.

But when it comes to visiting, such headlines can be misleading; with the current government taking significant steps to boost and enhance tourism, the areas popular with visitors such as the volcano parks and coastal hot spots feel safe, well-maintained and well-supervised.

ACTIVITIES The bustling fishing port of La Libertad is well worth a visit for its sunny, strollable Malécon promenade, craft market, and pier where fishing boats are winched up to unload glittering cascades of squid, lobster, fish and shrimp. Sea turtle conservationists are active in El Salvador, working to tag, study and protect the endangered leatherbacks and hawksbills and vulnerable green sea turtles that feed in the mangrove marshes of Jiquilisco Bay. Sign up for a day trip with highly rated tour company GreenBlueRed and help wrangle and tag the majestic creatures, thereby supporting the work of ProCosta and other groups.

RATES El Salvador is a traveler’s bargain; rooms at Palo Verde start at $125 with weekday and seasonal discounts, while rooms at nearby hotel Acantilados start at $150. m M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 71

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a r c c t k u e r N December 14th & 15th 1:00 pm & 5:00 pm

@ Marin Center tickets.marincenter.org 415.473.6800

Delight in the Magic

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Out & About

A R O U N D U P O F T H E H O T T E S T L O C A L E V E N T S , S O C I A L G AT H E R I N G S A N D P L A C E S T O E AT

MARTIN GIRARD

THEATER

Amaluna, Cirque du Soleil

LISTING ON PAGE 74

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Calendar EDITED BY CHRISTINA MUELLER

director Diane Paulus.

Big Top at Oracle Park (SF). 877-924-7783, cirquedusoleil.com NOV 3 Motown The Cole Porter Society celebrates the defining sound of the Motor City with tributes to Aretha Franklin, the Supremes and many more in this sing-along event.

Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org

THEATER

Stomp THEATER THRU DEC 8 Testmatch Colonialism, gender and power pull apart two cricket teams in India and England in this time-traveling tale.

Strand Theater (SF).

415.749.2228, act-sf.org

THRU MAY 17 Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The exclusive West Coast premiere of the eighth story in the Harry Potter series.

Curran Theater (SF). harrypotteron stage.com THRU NOV 2 The Speakeasy: All Hallows’ Eve Don your best 1920s costume and enjoy an

interactive theater experience, including tap-dancing skeletons and a playlet of ghost stories, all in Jazz Age fashion. Boxcar Theatre (SF). boxcartheatre.org NOV 2–DEC 1 Champions of Magic Five illusionists take the stage with interactive magic, an impossible escape from

Houdini’s water torture cell, and a see-it-tobelieve-it levitation.

Golden Gate Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, broadwaysf.com NOV 3–JAN 12 Amaluna The latest show from Cirque du Soleil is a celebration of love and a tribute to the voices of women from Tony Award–winning

NOV 5–10 Stomp The British street performance turned global percussion sensation drops by with its high energy, idiosyncratic instruments and inimitable beats.

Geary Theater (SF).

415.749.2228, act-sf.org NOV 7–17 Cutting Ball Variety Pack From play workshops and director-driven shorts to roundtable readings, this festival is for the

curious, intrepid theatergoers and anyone who ever wanted to explore the inner workings of theater. EXIT (SF). 415.525.1205, cuttingball.com NOV 10 Diane Barnes The Best of San Francisco Solo Series, in partnership with Brian Copeland, presents My Stroke of Luck, in which a single adoptive mom forges a new identity after a health crisis.

Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org NOV 13–DEC 22 She Loves Me Georg, Amalia and their co-workers at the perfumery remind us that the important thing in life is to take care of the people you love. Ross Valley Players (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com NOV 14–DEC 8 Mother of the Maid Joan of

GUY FURROW

T H E AT E R / CO M E DY / M U S I C / M U S E U M S / E V E N T S / F I L M / TA L K S

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Arc’s epic tale is seen through the eyes of her mother, Isabelle, who confronts a mother’s fear and faith as she watches her headstrong daughter change history. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5200, marintheatre.org NOV 22 Diaries Mandy Patinkin, the actor known as Saul in Showtime’s Homeland and Montoya in The Princess Bride, returns to the stage to belt out classic American show tunes and songs from his latest album. Sydney Goldstein Theater (SF).

415.392.4400, feinsteinssf.com

DANCE NOV 3 Exploring Nutcracker Join the San Francisco Ballet in discovering the backstory of how this little-known Russian ballet became a holiday phenomenon. War Memorial Opera House (SF).

415.865.6670, sfballet.org THRU NOV 16 Entre Tú y Yo Legendary flamenco dancer Soledad Barrio stars in Noche Flamenca’s You and I, exploring the possibilities and constraints of relationships through Spain’s most famous dance style. Z Space (SF). 415.626.0453, zspace.org NOV 5 Great Russian Nutcracker In what might be the holiday season’s earliest rendition, the Moscow Ballet drops by to present the holiday classic, complete with 36 Russian dancers and a life-size Russian nesting doll.

Palace of Fine Arts (SF).

833.215.5121, palaceof finearts.org NOV 24 So You Think You Can Dance Live Based on the longrunning TV series, this show features the hottest moves from Season 16 as well as pieces choreographed for this tour.

Luther Burbank Center (Santa Rosa). luther burbankcenter.org

MARINSYMPHONY19|20 ALASDAIR NEALE | MUSIC DIRECTOR

NOV 29–DEC 8 The Velveteen Rabbit The transformative power of love brings a beloved pet rabbit to life in this classic story from Margery Williams. Yerba Buena Center (SF).

415.863.9834, odc.dance

COMEDY NOV 14 The Great American Sh*t Show Charlie Varon and Brian Copeland return with a tag-team presentation designed to draw laughs about Donald Trump.

Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org NOV 30 Home for the Holidays San Rafael’s own Anne and Jon Fox each highlight four past alumni in this seasonal rendition of the San Francisco Stand-up Comedy Competition.

Showcase Theater (San Rafael). marincenter.org

MUSIC NOV 2 Lucinda Williams The Southern crooner will perform her Car Wheels on a Gravel Road album in full to celebrate the 20th anniversary of its release. Fox Theater (Oakland). thefox oakland.com

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Ice, Ice Baby

Grab a pair of skates and make your way to one of these spots to celebrate the season.

NorCal Ice San Rafael The former Marin on Ice rebranded last year and added after-school skate instruction, but the feel-good vibes, piping-hot cocoa, and all-day family-centered skating remain the same. Northgate Mall (San Rafael). officialnorcalice.com, Nov 6–Jan 5 DO THIS

Holiday Ice Rink Watch the Union Square tree-lighting ceremony from the ice, spin with your headphones on for the Silent Skate Party, or take free lessons every Saturday and Sunday from professionals. Union Square (SF). unionsquareicerink.com, Nov 6–Jan 20 The Winter Park On Sunday mornings, instructors from Granite Curling Club of California will visit this S.F. Civic Center landmark to give lessons in the broom-driven sport. Or stop in for the Holidaybreaker yoga and dance party on December 7. winterparkicerinksf.com, Nov 22–Jan 5 Recently renovated Snoopy’s Home Ice in Santa Rosa offers year-round skating, and Yerba Buena Ice Skating and Bowling Center’s NHLsize rink in San Francisco has extended hours during Thanksgiving week and December. snoopyshomeice.com; skatebowl.com

NOV 2 Petty Theft The Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers tribute band joins up with Super Diamond to support Marin Homeless Aid with proceeds benefiting Ritter Center of San Rafael.

Veterans Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.473.6800, marincenter.org

NOV 2, 4–5 Madonna The shape-shifting songstress tours in support of her 14th studio album, Madame X. Golden Gate Theatre (SF). 888.746.1799, broadwaysf.com NOV 3 Buzzy Martin and the Trespassers The star of the movie Guitar Man, about

NOV 3 What’s Going On Top Shelf Classics brings the songs of two giants of American music, Marvin Gaye and Aretha Franklin, to life.

Feinstein’s at the Nikko (SF). 866.663.1063, feinsteinssf.com NOV 7 Charley Crockett/Rhett Miller The Texas blues artist joins with the author of the children’s book No More Poems in this one-of-a-kind, holidaythemed show. Great American Music Hall (SF). slimspresents.com NOV 8 Jerry’s Middle Finger The L.A. band celebrates the music of the Jerry Garcia Band.

Terrapin Crossroads (San Rafael).

415.524.2773, terrapin crossroads.net NOV 10 Chick Corea The renowned jazz pianist sits down at the keys to play music from Mozart to Monk. Davies Symphony Hall (SF).

415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org NOV 10 New Century Chamber Orchestra Pianist Simone Dinnerstein headlines an all-Bach program of keyboard concerti highlighted by the composer’s popular Brandenburg Concerto No. 5. Kanbar Center (San Rafael).

415.444.8000, marinjcc.org NOV 10 Susan Werner The gal who grew up on

a hog farm in eastern Iowa pays tribute to her home and her countryrock roots with Hayseed.

HopMonk Tavern (Novato). 415.892.6200, hopmonk.com NOV 11 Max The singer of the smash hit “Lights Down Low” makes his first appearance in the Bay Area. Rickshaw Stop (SF). 415.861.2011, rickshawstop.com NOV 15 Preservation Hall Jazz Band Playing music from the documentary A Tuba to Cuba, the New Orleans jazz band pays tribute to the music of its hometown. Luther Burbank Center (Santa Rosa).

707.546.3600, luther burbankcenter.org NOV 15–DEC 7 Hansel & Gretel Fans of the Brothers Grimm fairy tales and their updated Disney versions will appreciate this rendition in a magical, fairy-filled forest where a candy house sits quietly amid the trees. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com NOV 21 Cher With special guests Nile Rodgers and Chic, the Goddess of Pop stops by on her Here We Go Again tour.

Chase Center (SF). chasecenter.com

Atrium Theater (SF).

415.864.3330, sfopera.com NOV 23 Eddie Spaghetti The Supersuckers lead singer and bass player goes solo to share his love of roots music; J.D. Pinkus of the Butthole Surfers is also performing. HopMonk Tavern (Novato). 415.892.6200, hopmonk.com NOV 24 Aquila & Tres Hermanicas Combining Christian and Sephardic, this program from the San Francisco Early Music Society celebrates the sacred and secular delights of both cultures through storytelling, song and dance. Church of the Advent (SF).

510.528.1725, sfems.org NOV 24 Cherry Poppin’ Daddies The masters of swing/jazz touch into ska/punk on their new tour. Slim’s (SF). slimspresents.com NOV 24 Sweet Dreamz In addition to their ever-popular a cappella stylings, the Marin Golden Gate Barbershop Chorus performs a variety of songs all about dreaming. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). marincenter.org

NOV 21–22 Zero The long-running jazz/ rock fusion jam band keeps on jammin’ with surprise special guests aplenty. Great American Music Hall (SF). slimspresents.com

NOV 25 Lukas Nelson & Friends Willie Nelson’s son, who is Neil Young’s band leader and lead guitarist, invites listeners to turn off he news and tune into something more meaningful. Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley).

415.388.3850, sweet watermusichall.com

NOV 22 San Francisco Opera Chorus The ensemble takes center stage for an evening of works by Verdi, J. S. Bach, Berlioz, and many others. Taube

NOV 29 The Chainsmokers The Grammy-winning duo are joined by 5 Seconds of Summer and Lennon Stella. Chase Center (SF). chasecenter.com

MUSEUMS MARIN Bay Area Discovery Museum The interactive, STEM-focused, indoor-outdoor space encourages tots, toddlers and older children to play, learn and engage their senses and explore their world (Sausalito).

415.339.3900, bayareadiscovery museum.org Bolinas Museum Twenty-fi e years of collaboration between aerial dancer Joanna Haigood and rigging designer Wayne Campbell are celebrated with video, artistic props and theater ephemera, through November 17 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org Marin Museum of Contemporary Art 50 Faces Contemporary mosaic artwork from the Scuola Mosaicisti del Friuli in Italy allows young artists to redefine the a e-old tradition of mosaic art with innovative methods and materials, through November 10 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.org The Museum of the American Indian Thousands of Native American regional and cultural items are displayed, with a focus on Marin and Sonoma (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Noguchi and Hasegawa in Postwar Japan Together, the duo sought to understand the fragmented postwar world and the potential of art in reassembling it.

These 80 works express their ongoing dialogue.

RED APPLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Martin’s efforts to teach music at San Quentin State Prison, pairs with a bluesy, country rock band in a concert to benefit kids at risk. HopMonk Tavern (Sebastopol).

707.829.7300, hopmonk.com

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Through December 8 (SF). 415.581.3711, asianart.org Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive Hinges: Sakaki Hyakusen and the Birth of Nanga Painting The fir t North American exhibition focused on the work and legacy of the influential apanese artist who established Japan’s Nanga School of painting in the 18th century, through February 2 (Berkeley).

510.642.0808, bampfa.org California Academy of Sciences Skin This new exhibit explores the color-changing, toughyet-fragile, ever-evolving epidermis of humans and other creatures, through January 20 (SF).

415.379.8000, calacademy.org Charles M. Schulz Museum Thanksgiving Feast with Snoopy Make toast, pop popcorn and scarf down a few jelly beans, just like Snoopy does in the classic television special featuring the Peanuts gang, November 16 (Santa Rosa).

707.579.4452, schulz museum.org Contemporary Jewish Museum Annabeth Rosen: Fired, Broken, Gathered, Heaped The fir t major museum survey of the work of Davis-based sculptor Annabeth Rosen, a pioneer in contemporary ceramics whose works are often described as theatrical, through January 19 (SF).

415.655.7800, thecjm.org de Young Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power 1963–1983 Organized by London’s Tate Modern, this exhibit looks at issues

of race and identity, November 9–March 15 (SF). 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org di Rosa Viola Frey: Center Stage Known for her larger-than-life figurati e ceramic sculptures, the Bay Area artist had a career spanning fi e decades and worked in a range of media, through December 29 (Napa). 707.226.5991, dirosaart.org Exploratorium This learning laboratory offers experiences an a chance to explore the world through science, art and human experience (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu Legion of Honor James Tissot: Fashion & Faith Co-organized with Musée d’Orsay of Paris, this exhibition reexamines the artist’s society paintings and cloisonné enamels to reveal a complex commentary on 19th-century society, through February 9 (SF).

415.750.3600, legionof honor.famsf.org Museum of the African Diaspora Rashaad Newsome The New York artist explores video works inspired by vogue, a dance phenomenon that emerged from Harlem’s queer ballroom scene, through March 1 (SF). 415.358.7200, moadsf.org Museum of Craft and Design Dead Nuts: A Search for the Ultimate Machined Object What started as a question on an online forum — What is the ultimate machine object/mechanism?

— evolved into a crowdsourced list of favorites that inspire these makers, through December 1 (SF). 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

SAN DOMENICO SCHOOL Independent, K-12, Day and Boarding

Join us for

November 2 Kindergarten

Preview Days December 8 High School

January 11 Grades K-8

Exceptional Education and a Sense of Purpose San Anselmo, CA

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Out & About / CALENDAR Madonna, Golden Gate Theatre, S.F.

unforgettable homes.

Sonoma Green (Sonoma). 707.939.7862, svma.org NOV 16 Pinot Fest The bacchanal to all things pinot noir returns with over 50 Oregon and California vintners and a special pop-up from New Zealand with hors d’oeuvres to match.

Farallon (SF). farallon restaurant.com

SFMOMA Far Out: Suits, Habs and Labs for Outer Space This exhibit examines how both applied and theoretical design can advance new models for life beyond Earth, with real and conceptual ideas for space suits, habitats and laboratories and a selection of films and visua art, through January 20, 2020 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

(SF). 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

Sonoma Valley Museum of Art Bingo: The Life and Art of Bernice Bing The San Francisco native reclaims the style of abstract expressionism and redefines its ties t non-Western philosophies, through January 5 (Sonoma). 707.939.7862, svma.org

THRU NOV 20 Día de los Muertos With more than 60 works by artists including Isidoro Angeles, Daniel Camacho and Sandy Coronado, this exhibit pays tribute to life and death and celebrates the essence of transformation through art.

Marin Civic Center Bartolini Gallery (San Rafael). 415.473.6014, marincenter.org

The Walt Disney Family Museum A Powerful Force: Working to End Homelessness Through Art Featuring original works created by youth experiencing homelessness, this exhibit is open to the public to help foster community engagement with the arts, through January 6

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Leading-edge contemporary art and cultural programs that support societal movement are the emphasis of this cultural institution (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

EVENTS

NOV 2 Elegance at Sea Cocktails, dinner and dancing, in a scene set to resemble the golden era of travel aboard a grand ocean liner, are on tap for Hospice

by the Bay’s annual ball. The Seminary at Strawberry (Mill Valley). (415) 526.5500, hospicebythebay.org NOV 2 John Byrne Barry The author of When I Killed My Father reads from his book, then discusses the challenges and unexpected rewards that can occur at the end of life, as part of Reimagine End of Life Week. Tam Valley Cabin (Mill Valley). letsreimagine.org NOV 3 EcoSail Climb aboard the schooner Freda B for a trip around the Marin Headlands and a naturalist-guided tour of local wildlife on land and in the sea.

Sausalito Yacht Harbor/ Slip 465 (Sausalito).

415.331.0444, sfbay adventures.com NOV 12 Dare to Lead This two-part series, led by Mickey Porter, will give you the skills to engage in difficult conversations

and develop trusting relationships built on empathy and vulnerability. Marin County Office of Education (San Rafael). marin schools.org NOV 14 Holiday Jam Featuring a special performance by Grammy Award–winning singer Lisa Fischer, this annual fundraising gala helps ensure Glide can provide 750,000 meals to the hungry each year. The Masonic (SF).

415.674.6145, glide.org NOV 15–17 Arts & Crafts Market Over 150 artists convene to showcase and sell handcrafted works of art, jewelry, ceramics and more. Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). marin center.org NOV 16 The Art of Accessibility Also known as Journey No. 3, this series guides you on a unique art-, design- and food-filled trip through some of Sonoma’s most

NOV 17 The Occupation of Alcatraz Commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Alcatraz Occupation, this panel discussion with original occupiers Eloy Martinez (Ute) and Dr. LaNada War Jack (ShshoneBannock) explores why it remains relevant today. Presidio Theatre (SF). presidio.gov NOV 18 Mo Rocca The CBS Sunday morning correspondent and frequent panelist on NPR’s Wait Wait … Don’t Tell Me! discusses his podcast “Mobituaries,” an appreciation of the things of the past, with Adam Savage. Sydney Goldstein Theater (SF).

415.563.2463, cityarts.net NOV 20–DEC 22 The Great Dickens Christmas Fair During weekends, this immersive adventure-land takes visitors on a deep dive into a London Charles Dickens would recognize, complete with historically appropriate costumes, foods, games, streets and dance halls. Cow Palace (Daly City). dickensfair. com

NOV 22 Art Angels A day of festive food, music from Operation Encore’s veteran and active-duty military singers, and holiday shopping benefits Operation Encore and Homeward Bound. St. Stephen’s Church (Belvedere).

415.435.4501, artangelsfair.org NOV 22 PNOC Foundation Gratitude Gala Enjoy a seated dinner and cocktails and dance the night away to Notorious in support of Pacific Pediatric NeuroOncology Consortium’s efforts to beat children’s brain cancer.

Sweetwater Music Hall (Mill Valley).

323.696.5639, pnocfoundation.org NOV 22–JAN 5 Night Bloom The Conservatory of Flowers lights up its iconic facade and infuses its interior landscape with sound. Conservatory of Flowers (SF).

415.831.2090, conserv atoryofflowers.org NOV 29–DEC 1 Bolinas Open Studios View art by diverse artists and craftspeople in the studios where it is made and pick up a treasure or two. Various locations (Bolinas). coastalmarin artists.com

FILM NOV 1–2 Coco The Academy award–winning film about a boy who journeys to the Land of the Dead to reunite with his greatgreat-grandfather is enhanced with live accompaniment by the San Francisco Symphony. Davies

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Symphony hall (SF).

415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org NOV 9 Timeless Warren Miller Entertainment’s 70th film celebrates the thrill of skiing and snowboarding with California athletes Jonny Moseley, Amie Engerbretson, Connery Lundin and Glen Plake. Marin Veterans’ Auditorium (San Rafael). marin center.org.

NOV 16–17 Shakira This documentary follows the Colombian songstress as she toured the world in support of her 2018 album El Dorado. Lark Theater (Larkspur).

415.924.5111, larktheater.net

NOV 21 Spirits in the Forest Filmed at Berlin’s famed Waldbühne, this documentary follows Depeche Mode on its Global Spirit Tour and weaves together fan stories with performance footage. Rafael Film Center (San Rafael).

415.454.1222, rafaelfilm.cafilm.org NOV 23 Christmas Vacation Watch the 1989 comedy, then ask questions of one of its stars, Chevy Chase.

Marin Veterans’ Auditorium (San Rafael). marin center.org

NOV 23–24 Treasure Wine Fest Sip wines from four of the island’s winemakers after exploring Treasure Fest, a monthly gathering of local makers.

Winemaker Studios/ The Winery SF (Treasure Island, SF). winemakerstudios.com

Night Bloom at the Conservatory of Flowers, S.F.

All listings are correct at the time of printing.

Please be aware that events may occasionally be canceled or postponed. We always suggest contacting the promoter or venue to confirm details haven’t changed since publication.

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Eat & Drink A N I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E T O R E S TA U R A N T S A N D G O O D F O O D I N T H E B AY A R E A

EDITED BY CHRISTINA MUELLER

by the Larkspur tasting room at happy hour, Tuesday to Friday, 4 to 6 p.m. backstagewines.com

What’s Hot

Raising the Bar

Zestier than sit-down restaurants and classier than most watering holes, wine bars inhabit a special place on the dining scene. Here are some that opened in the past two years. BY KASIA PAWLOWSKA West Coast Wine and Cheese After a few successful years in San Francisco, West Coast Wine and Cheese owners Chris and Lindsey Wanner were ready to add a location, but wanted it close enough where they could handle both shops and a newborn son. Mill Valley proved just the place. With 24 upscale rotating wines by the glass, a world-class West Coast bottle list and a menu of local cheeses, charcuterie and baguettes from Jane Bakery in S.F., they’ve seen to every detail. And after one year in its new location the wine program here won a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Cheers! westcoastsf.com Backstage Winery Tasting Room Opened in November 2017, this place makes its wines from the grapes of 19 small vineyards it manages in different appellations throughout California. All wines are produced at the winery in Morgan Hill and are very limited in supply. For special rates on by-the-glass and small plates, swing

Jillie’s

offer a variety of wines from all over the world with a focus on smaller producers, many using biodynamic, organic and

certified organic methods. Check out the weekly tasting events on the website. jillieswine.com

GATHER Want to sample wines inexpensively or find a quality bottle at a fair price? Head to this Larkspur shop that offers $5 or $10 tastings and over 300 wines, most under $50. 415.461.4475

KRESCENT CARASSO (WEST COAST WINE AND CHEESE)

West Coast Wine and Cheese

Jillie’s Jill Cordova-Holt likes to take care of people. After a career in health care, including 12 years as a hospice social worker at Hospice by the Bay, she decided to pursue her other passion — wine — and opened Jillie’s Wine Bar and Shop in San Anselmo this past June. She and husband Michael Holt

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Out & About / DINE CORTE MADERA BENISSIMO Italian “Benissimo” means “really, really good” in Italian. Aside from the daily 4 to 6:30 p.m. happy hour, the menu offers a large selection of pizza, pasta and large plates, like cioppino, fresh fishes of the day, T-bone steaks and the signature Benissimo Burger or portobello burger. Specials include all-day happy hour on Mondays, no-corkage Tuesdays, Wednesday night martinis and live music on Thursdays.

415.927.2316, benissimos.com s $$$ S D º BOCA PIZZERIA Italian The Italian-inspired pizzeria utilizes Northern California’s bounty of seasonal ingredients and showcases local microbreweries and wine country’s boutique varietals. The menu includes appetizers, salads of organic produce when available, pastas, local free-range poultry and meats, desserts and Neapolitan-style pizzas with house-made mozzarella. Wine half off n Mondays. 1544 Redwood Highway, 415.924.3021, bocapizzeria.com s $$ Í C LD º CAFE VERDE California This revamped cafe offers wraps, paninis, salads, tea and more nearly all day long.

Enjoy any of these items inside or out on the patio and be sure to inquire about the German and Belgian beer samplers. 502 Tamalpais Drive, 415.927.1060, cafeverde marin.com b $ Í BLD º

FLORES Mexican With an emphasis on regional Mexican dishes and flavors sourced from family recipes, the menu is based on California seasonality and revolves around masa. The daily-made tortillas are featured in dishes such as duck confit enchiladas, Dungeness crab tostadas, and chili-braised beef short ribs. There’s a full bar to boot. 301 Corte Madera Town Center, Corte Madera, 415.500.5145, floressf.com s $$$ S C LD BR º LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese Dine on family-style Vietnamese fare in the Town Center.

The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring rolls and pho options are popular picks. 346 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.0288, lamaisondelareine.com b $$ S Í C LD VEGGIE GRILL Vegan/ Vegetarian Veggie Grill is a fast-casual restaurant chain that celebrates the veggie by offering a variety of hot sandwiches and burgers, entree salads, bowls, home-style plates, shareable sides, organic teas and housemade desserts prepared with vegetables, fruits, grains and nuts. 147 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.945.8954, veggiegrill.com b $ S Í LD WORLD WRAPPS California Owners Keith Cox and Matt Blair have revamped this “fast food” joint to feature healthy and flavorful items like a Hawaiian poke wrap and a tahini tofu summer roll that’s vegan-friendly. Exotic

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Out & About / DINE

LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French This authentically classic brasserie has been serving the Larkspur community for more than two decades.

Whether on the patio, at the European-style bar or in the casually elegant main dining room, it’s a fun and French experience. 7 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com s $$$ S Í C LD BR

Grilled Corn at Arguello, S.F.

housemade beverages include boba tea, mango lassi and Vietnamese iced coffee. 208 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3663, worldwrapps.com $ S Í LD ZINZ WINE BAR California Zinz is an upscale wine bar, retail store and art gallery with a cozy, sophisticated atmosphere, an eclectic array of boutique wines and craft beer, and light appetizers. The quaint neighborhood space also holds events and happy hours. 207 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.9466, zinzwinebar.com b $$ Í º

FAIRFAX 123 BOLINAS California Created by four friends wanting to showcase seasonal fare in a relaxing, intimate environment, this cozy one-room eatery offers locally brewed

beer, small-production wines and seasonal food along with a view of Bolinas Park through the floor-to-ceiling windows. 123 Bolinas St, 415.488.5123, 123bolinas.com b $$ S Í D º BAREFOOT CAFE American Chef Tony Senehi prepares fresh California dishes with local organic ingredients from sustainable sources. A popular brunch spot, this quaint restaurant in the heart of Fairfax serves locals and tourists everything from eggs Benedict to panna cotta dessert.

1900 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.460.2160, barefootcafe.com b $$ S BLD TAMAL Mexican The regional cuisine here highlights coastal regions of Oaxaca and the Yucatán Peninsula.

Dine inside or on the patio and enjoy craft Mexican cocktails or some of the Bay Area’s best craft

beer. 23 Broadway, 415.524.8478, tamalfairfax.com s $$$ LD THE LODGE American From the owners of S.F.’s Big Swingin’ Cycles comes this rider-friendly stop along Fairfax’s main drag. With a menu designed to power you up, The Lodge features all-American eats like a breakfast burrito stuffed with eggs, spinach and salsa; share plates like a sausage board served with Lodge tots and slaw; and pour-over coffee and draft beer for riders and hikers alike. 1573 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Fairfax, 415.991.5625, thelodgefairfax.com b $$ BLD

LARKSPUR BACKSTAGE California Nestled in downtown Larkspur, Backstage is a comfortable, sociable setting for wine tasting and light appetizers.

Flights of exclusive picks from small-scale California vineyards bring wine country closer to Marin. Happy hour Tuesday through Friday 4 to 6 p.m.

295 Magnolia Ave, 415.898.6778, back stagewines.com b $$ º EMPORIO RULLI Italian Renowned for its Northern Italian specialties and treats, the Larkspur location (there are four others) is a favored spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet treat.

464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com $$ S Í BL GIA RISTORANTE Italian Italian Fabrizio Laudati, former owner of San Francisco’s Bella Trattoria and Panta Rei, has brought his Italian style to Marin. With cochef Stefano Guasco, he offers a menu of simple, authentic dishes with a modern twist from central Italy’s Lazio region. 286 Magnolia

POSIE American This hip artisan ice cream shop opened by Kyle Caporicci, former pastry chef of Michelinstarred Commis, is making a name for itself with seasonal flavors, homemade gluten-free cones and vegan ice cream.

For lunch you’ll find meticulously prepared open-face tartines and Instagram-ready pastries. Menu changes weekly. 250B Magnolia Ave, 415.891.8395 $L

just a few of the dishes that reflect the regional Roman ingredients and style of this sister restaurant to the San Francisco original. In Marin, look for fresh seafood pastas on the day’s specials menu, too. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.896.4002, romasf.com b $$ LD RUSTIC BAKERY California The homegrown bakery is known and loved the world over: Pope Francis famously requested Rustic Bakery flatbread and crostini when he visited the U.S. in 2015. Organic bread, croissants and pastries baked fresh each morning and salads, sandwiches, and soups for lunch make Rustic a local staple. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556; Marin Country Mart, 2017 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.9900, rusticbakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

MILL VALLEY

R’NOH THAI Thai This cozy place by the Corte Madera Creek has a reputation for clean and tasty dishes. From curries and Thai barbecue to noodle dishes and the classic tom ka (coconut lemongrass soup), R’Noh is bound to satisfy your Thai cravings. For an indulgent treat, try the fried sweet potato appetizer.

1000 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.0599, rnohthai.com b $$ S Í LD

BOO KOO Asian This locally owned restaurant creates healthy meals that blend equal parts California fresh with Southeast Asian–inspired street food. Boo Koo offers a vibrant bar with wines and kombucha on tap as well as one of the best craft beer offerings in town. Vegan, GF and vegetarian-friendly menu. 25 Miller Ave, 415.888.8303, eatbookoo.com b $ Í LD

ROMA SF Italian Ovalshaped pizza, fried rice balls, burrata with artichoke hearts, and pasta with fresh pear and Gorgonzola are

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and ChiliLime “Brick” Chicken are a few of the

KIMBERLEY HASSELBRINK

Ave, 415.891.3979, giarestaurant.net b $$ Í LD

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satisfying comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Highway, 415.331.2600, buck eyeroadhouse.com s $$ C LD BR BUNGALOW 44 American One of Mill Valley’s neighborhood hot spots, featuring contemporary California comfort food, signature cocktails, fine wine, and one-dollar oysters from 5 to 6 p.m. every day.

44 E Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com s $$$ S Í C D CAFE DEL SOUL California Healthy options become addictive at this eatery that now has locations in both Tam Valley and San Rafael. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh quinoa wrap, you’ll want to return to try the chipotle rice bowl. A casual lunch spot and great for takeout, Cafe del Soul also serves smoothies and pressed juices. 247 Shoreline Highway, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net $ S Í LD DIPSEA CAFE American A longtime breakfast favorite, the Dipea has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Lunch specialties include BLTs, tuna melts and generous Cobb salads. 200 Shoreline Highway, 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com b $$ S Í BLD

FLOUR CRAFT BAKERY American The brainchild of pastry chef Heather Hardcastle, this second location, in the bright and airy renovated Lumber Yard, offers not only gluten-free baked goods but sandwiches, salads and takeout. The first location is in San Anselmo. 129 Miller Ave, 415.384.8244, flourcraftbakery.com b $$ S Í BL GRAVITY TAVERN American Updated with ingredients to reflect modern tastes, American classics like grilled chicken Waldorf salad with pickled grapes, lobster roll with toasted challah and veggie slaw, and a land and sea pasta with house made egg pasta, pork belly and crab may have also been familiar fare for passengers of the gravity car for which this saloon was named. 38 Miller Ave, 415.888.2108, gravity tavern.com s $$$ Í LD HARMONY Chinese Enjoy a lighter take on Chinese at this restaurant, nestled in Strawberry Village. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce, and signature prawns are wok seared with scallions. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea and be sure to check out the weekday takeout lunch special.

401 Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com b $$ S LD INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite with the takeout crowd;

eating on site is also a treat. 707 Redwood Highway, 415.388.3350, indiapalace millvalley.com b $$ S LD JOE’S TACO LOUNGE Mexican Joe’s serves up fish tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu tostada and crab tostadas. A colorful interior and quick service make this a fun, easy stop.

If there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. If you stay, grab a selection of hot sauce bottles from the wall and find your perfect match. 382 Miller Ave, 415.383. 8164, joestacolounge.com b $$ S Í BLD PARRANGA TAQUERIA & CERVECERIA Mexican Mill Valley’s Parranga serves as a gathering spot for affordable southof-the-border bites and beverages in the heart of Strawberry Village. The eat-in or takeout menu offers standouts such as rotisserie chicken and an extensive taco selection, along with made-to-order tortillas, ceviche and churros, washed down with whole-fruit juices, aqua frescas, Mexican craft beer or a margarita.

Strawberry Village, 800 Redwood Hwy, Ste 801, 415.569.5009, parranga.com b $$ S Í LD º PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff rides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Get a table by the window or on the outdoor deck for a truly exceptional view right

on the water. Peruse the impressive selection of Italian wines to accompany your rustic seasonal meal.

625 Redwood Highway, 415.380.2525, piatti.com s $$ S Í C LD BR

Concierge Match Making

PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian Family owned for over 35 years, Piazza D’Angelo evokes a traditional trattoria dining experience. Enjoy a variety of house-made pastas, meat and seafood dishes, wood-fired pizzas, and gluten-free offerings with organic and locally sourced ingredients. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com s $$ S Í C LD BR º ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fireside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fire and served in appetizer-size portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entree from the menu.

591 Redwood Highway, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com b $$ S LD SHORELINE COFFEE SHOP American This coffee shop is a funky diner with a small-town feel. Check out the mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare.

221 Shoreline Highway, 415.388.9085, shoreline coffeeshop.com b $$ S Í BL BR VASCO Italian You can expect an intimate dining experience in this one-room trattoria.

Try one of the pasta dishes or thin-crust wood-fired pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343, vasco millvalley.com s $$ S D

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Innovative Match Cassie Zampa-Keim 415.259.8714 innovative-match.com M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 83

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Out & About / DINE they’re happy to try and prepare dishes off menu. The pot stickers are the best around.

120 Vintage Way, 415.892.8838, jennielow.com b $ S LD

Chopped Salad at Maybeck’s, S.F.

WATERSHED California Gather round the firepit in front of the restaurant or hang out at the long bar for a pre-dinner glass of wine before sampling one of the many dishes curated to reflect the bounty of Marin. The Stemple Creek Ranch burger and fresh pastas are matched with a bevy of simply prepared, easy to share dishes (like spicy rock cod lettuce cups or lamb riblets) that reflect chef Kyle Swain’s careful sourcing and focus on local flavor. 129 Miller Ave, 415.888.2406, water shedmv.com b $$$ LD WEST COAST WINE CHEESE California Focused on small production winemakers, the wine menu features a bottle list with over 300 selections, wines by the glass that change weekly as well as California, Oregon and Washington beers on draft and by the bottle.

A rotating cheese and

charcuterie menu, served with bread from San Francisco’s Jane Bakery, is also offered.

31 Sunnyside Ave, 415.758.3408, westcoastsf.com b $$ D

NOVATO

or the braised beef short rib pappardelle. Weekly specials include half off all wines by the bottle on Wednesdays and half off raft beers on Thursdays. 454 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.2302, bocapizzeria.com b $$ S Í C LD

BESO BISTRO AND WINE BAR California This Hamiton Field bistro highlights locally sourced organic produce, fresh sustainable seafood, and pastureraised and free-range meat. Wine lovers can embrace their inner Dionysus — Beso offers more than 20 selections by the glass and more than 50 by the bottle.

502 S Palm Drive, besobistro.com b $$ Í LD

BOCA TAVERN American Bring a date here or celebrate a special event. Favorites at this classic restaurant include bigeye tuna poke, Dungeness crab cakes, mac ’n’ cheese croquettes and duck-fat fries. From the woodburning grill there’s fresh fish, shrimp and dry-aged ribeye.

On Tuesdays wine is half off. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com s $$$ S Í C LD º

BOCA PIZZERIA Italian Enjoy authentic pizza prepared with fresh mozzarella made in house and tomatoes imported from Italy, or go for a grilled rosemary chicken sandwich

JENNIE LOW’S Chinese Choose from Cantonese, Mandarin, Szechuan and Hunan cuisines, and if you don’t see your favorite, let the restaurant know; whenever possible,

RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic pastries, breads, salads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including daily seasonal specials.

Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952, rusticbakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

ROSS MARCHE AUX FLEURS French A local favorite known for cuisine showcasing locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch, accompanied by a lengthy wine and beer list (bacon, wine and beer are available for sale). Thursday night is hamburger night; requesting your burger with your reservation is recommended (quantities are limited). 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxfleurs restaurant.com b $$ S Í D TONY TUTTO’S Pizza After nine years in Mill Valley, owner Greg DiGiovine relocated to Ross, bringing his familiar pies and kidand dog-friendly vibe to downtown. The vegan pies are still here and a gluten-free crust is now available. 16 Ross Common, 415.383.8646,

tonytuttopizza.com b $$ S LD

SAN ANSELMO BAAN THAI CUISINE Thai Known for its mango sticky rice, this restaurant is committed to serving fresh, local and seasonal food.

Warm up with the tom kha soup or stave off he heat with a lychee iced tea. 726 San Anselmo Ave, 415.457.9470, baanthaimarin.com b $$ LD COMFORTS CAFE American Established in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down patio and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. A large takeout section offers fresh bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and even entrees for dinner at home.

Besides the famous Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stuffed pecan-crusted French toast, flavorful scrambles, Chicken Okasan (nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans) and wonton soup.

335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com b $$ S Í BL BR CUCINA SA Italian Cucina SA recently renovated and expanded its space to include a full bar that seats 30 with an upstairs mezzanine area that will eventually become a lounge.

Along with two dining rooms, a private dining option and outdoor tables on the adjacent bridge, the restaurant is a solid bet for casual after-work drinks or hosting large parties.

The menu has woodfired pizzas, homemade pastas, modern takes on Italian classics

and lots of vegetarian, gluten-free options and now a full bar.

510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942, cucina-sa.com s $$ S Í LD º JILLIE’S WINE BAR Californian A rotating list of more than 20 globally-sourced and Californian wines and a few beers are on tap at owner Jill CordovaHolt’s eponymously named bar and retail shop in the Red Hill Shopping Center. Savor small bites like a cheese and charcuterie board or black truffle potato chips while sipping in the lounge, at the bar or one of the indoor/ outdoor tables. 906 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo, 415.521.5500, jillieswine.com b $$ Í LD SUSHI 69 Japanese Opened in 2001 in San Anselmo, Sushi 69 has been a favorite for locals looking to get their fill of no-frills sushi. The owner hails from Japan and has created an extensive menu featuring traditional tempura and the popular Hiro’s roll (spicy tuna with avocado, salmon and ponzu sauce wrapped in sushi rice). 69 Center Blvd, 415.459.6969, shallwego69.com b $$$ Í D TACO JANE’S Mexican Taco Jane’s full bar features a robust tequila and mezcal selection.

Its regional Mexican cuisine includes Oaxacan mole, fish tacos and vegetarian options. Black Gold salsa arrives with complimentary chips and is created using charred blackened tomatoes and roasted chilis.

Live music Thursdays, enclosed patio seating

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all year round, weekday happy hour 4:30 to 6 p.m. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com s $$ S Í LD BR THE HUB American The delicious burgers and fries, like the #1 Hub Burger with white cheddar and special sauce, and seasonal focus at the former Farm Burger in the Red Hill Shopping Center haven’t changed, but the addition of an array of big salads like Thai spinach and keto cobb necessitated a rebranding. The chicken burger with sriracha-chile mayo is a new fave. 882 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.785.4802, hubsananselmo.com b $$ Í LD

SAN RAFAEL BOGIE’S TOO American Relocated from the Civic Center to downtown San Rafael after 29 years, this second coming of Bogie’s highlights breakfast, brunch and lunch. Free range, organic eggs anchor a breakfast and lunch menu of omelets, sandwiches and salads that Humphrey Bogart himself might recognize. 1335 Fourth St, 415.492.1530, bogies too.com b $$ S BL BR LE COMPTOIR French The owners of San Francisco’s Gamine have opened their second restaurant, this time in the heart of San Rafael. The bistro serves up traditional

French favorites like beef cheeks bourguignon and onion soup gratinée in a chic and cozy setting. If you’re planning to go, call ahead. 1301 Fourth St, 415.454.5454, lecomptoirsr.com b $$ Í C D LOS MOLES Mexican Nestled centrally on Lincoln Avenue, Los Moles offers traditional pueblo Mexican cuisine, with — you guessed it — a variety of different moles to enhance your dish. Offering brunch, lunch, dinner and party options, Los Moles’ menu includes enmoladas, tacos, pollo al horno, carne asada, flan and much more. Don’t miss Taco Tuesday night for all-you-caneat tacos. 912 Lincoln Ave, 415.453.5850,

Homegrown food and wine

losmoles.com s $$ LD BR º LOTUS CUISINE OF INDIA RESTAURANT Indian A “Best of Marin” poll winner since 1999, family-owned and -operated Lotus serves up organic North Indian cuisine with many vegan and vegetarian options. It is a certified green business with an energy-efficient kitchen and features a retractable rooftop and exotic interior decor. The reasonably priced dishes are made with local, non-GMO and gluten-free ingredients. 704 Fourth St, 415.456.5808, lotusrestaurant.com b $$ S C LD MAGNOLIA PARK KITCHEN American This American bistro

features lots of farmfresh salads and sandwiches to choose from. The outdoor patio is well suited to sipping a glass of wine or enjoying a signature fried chicken bomb sandwich. 1016 Court St, 415.521.5591, magnolia parkkitchen.com b $$ Í C BL MICHAEL’S SOURDOUGH American The bread is made on site and is said to have magical qualities. It better as it is the only holder for the overstuffed wonders served at this Best of the County winner.

Fans return over and over to the San Rafael and Novato locations for their faves, ordered by number, then swoon over the huge sandos piled with meat, cheese

and enough shredded lettuce to ooze out the sides and onto your lap,.

999 Andersen Drive, Ste. 165, 415.485.0964, michaelssourdough sanrafael.com $$ S Í BL RANGE CAFE American The cuisine is local, seasonal, made with naturally raised ingredients and served in a casual, comfortable and refined setting, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grand Peacock Gap lawns. An inviting cafe at lunch with ice-cold lemonade and refreshing chardonnays makes a great dinner spot once the sun sets.

333 Biscayne Drive, 415.454.6450, rangecafe.net s $$ S Í C BLD º

Makers.

Lou and Susan Preston, owners Preston Farm and Winery in Dry Creek Valley

A town built by inspired craftspeople and visionaries. The perfect blend of agricultural heritage and trend-setting experiences. Join us in Healdsburg and dig into our roots, enjoy the fruits of our labor, and discover why we’re the tastemaker of Sonoma wine country.

Plan your stay at stayhealdsburg.com M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 85

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SAUSALITO ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian Authentic Italian eatery with handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti, showcasing cuisine of the Campania region for more than 20 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelino restaurant.com s $$$ S BLD

Squid Ink Spaghetti with Salmon at Palio, S.F.

REVEL & ROOST Californian The sunflower-bedecked tables hint at the Spanish and French flavors to come from the seasonally driven, locally sourced menu at this corner spot in downtown San Rafael. Artichoke salad with grilled radicchio casts an eye to Italy while a diver scallop with red curry and Thai basil looks far beyond the Mediterranean.

901 B St, San Rafael, 415.870.9946, revel roostkitchen.com b $$ S LD

SHIRO KUMA Japanese Shiro Kuma, which means polar bear, takes its inspiration from chef Yasuo Shigeyoshi’s childhood in a small rural town in the south of Japan and offers traditional-style sushi and wagyu A5 and Kobe beef to cook over ishiyaki grilling stones. Popular weekly specials include hamachi jalapeño and the omakase (chef’s choice) dinner. 1518 Fourth St, 415.295.7464, sushishiro kuma.com b $$ S LD

ROCKET ROLL Japanese There are plenty of fusion restaurants around, but not many that blend Mexican and Japanese.

Rocketroll offers everything from a spicy tuna rice bowl to yellowfin or salmon sashimi “sushi burritos.” Smoothies like the avocado fresher round out the menu. 1109 Fourth St, 415.866.0537 $ LD

THERESA & JOHNNY’S COMFORT FOOD American A favorite with both the kids and the foodie set, this charming eatery serves food like Mom used to make. Drop by for eggs Benedict, tuna melts, coffee and some of the best milkshakes around. 817 Fourth St, 415.259.0182, theresaand-johnnys.com b $$ S Í BL BR

VIN ANTICO American Vin Antico, “where passion meets the plate,” serves seasonal marketinspired cuisine like stone-oven-baked flatbreads, handmade pastas and organic salads, all innovatively prepared. The kitchen is open to the dining room and there’s a full bar with artisan cocktails. 881 Fourth St, 415.721.0600, vinantico.com s $$ S C LD º

AVATAR’S Indian If you’re on the hunt for innovative Indian fare, head to Avatar’s. Sip masala chai sweetened with brown sugar in this casual one-room restaurant, ideal for a quick lunch or dinner. 2656 Bridgeway, 415.332.8083, enjoyavatars.com b $$ S LD

VN NOODLE & GRILL Vietnamese Located in Montecito Plaza, the restaurant has a robust menu of standard Vietnamese fare, including a wide selection of rice plates, pho and of course, iced coff e. 421 Third St, 415.306.8299 $$ S C LD

COPITA Mexican Co-owner Joanne Weir, along with chef Daniel Tellez, presents fresh Mexican fare in the heart of downtown Sausalito. The ever-changing menu is 100 percent glutenfree, and the in-house tequila bar serves over 100 varieties and fantastic cocktails.

Dine at the bar or on the outdoor patio for great people-watching. 739 Bridgeway, 415.331.7400, copita restaurant.com s $$ S Í LD BR

YET WAH Chinese Named for the founder’s wife (“Yet” refers to the moon, “Wah” to brightness), this beloved mainstay has

DARIO’S RESTAURANT Italian Dario’s, a 40-year-old pizza joint in Sausalito, is shaking things up by updating the menu with a

Mediterranean flair.

In addition to the thincrust pizzas, you can now order items like lamb meatballs, chicken shawarma and falafel wraps. 2829 Bridgeway, 415.332.6636, darios sausalito.com b $$ Í LD LIGHTHOUSE American A great spot to grab a classic breakfast — the fruit pancakes, omelets and Danish-influenced dishes will make you a return customer. It’s a small but popular space, so arrive early or be prepared for a wait. 1311 Bridgeway, 415.331.3034, lighthouserestaurants.com $$ S BL MURRAY CIRCLE American Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant features local seasonal fare by executive chef Justin Everett, with pairings from an extensive wine list and tempting desserts. Stop by Farley Bar for cocktails with a view. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com s $$$ S Í C BLD BR OSTERIA DIVINO Italian Osteria Divino offers authentic Florentine cooking inspired by the finest local, organic, seasonal produce, meat and fish available, along with an extensive artisan pasta selection. Live music Tue-Sun. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, osteriadivino.com b $$ S Í C BLD BR º POGGIO Italian Executive chef Benjamin Balesteri creates Northern Italian fare using fresh and local ingredients.

Private dining rooms above the restaurant

can accommodate larger parties (10 to 150 guests). 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggio tratoria.com s $$$ S Í C BLD SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR Mexican Chef/ owner Sean Saylor uses fresh local ingredients and seafood to create a distinctively Cabo combination of California and Mexican cuisine.

Choose from more than 200 varieties of tequilas that are even better when enjoyed in the private Cabo Wabo room, named for (and approved by) Mill Valley’s own tequila master, Sammy Hagar. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylors restaurantandbar.com s $$ S Í C LD º TOMMY’S WOK Chinese Fresh ingredients, free-range chicken and traditional dishes fulfill the Chinese food craving with a nice atmosphere for dining in and great takeout for a night at home. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.332.5818, tommyswok.com b $$ S Í LD THE TRIDENT Seafood Set in a turn-of-thecentury building constructed for the San Francisco Yacht Club, this waterfront restaurant is a shoein for date night. The restaurant, a famous 1970s hangout, is now known for supporting local farmers, fishers and organic food producers. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, the tridentsausalito.com s $$$ S Í LD BR º

TIBURON CAFFE ACRI Italian The

KRISTEN LOKEN

a traditional Chinese menu and daily dim sum. Expect live music in the Kung Fu Lounge. 1238 Fourth St, 415.460.9883, yetwah sanrafael.com s $$ S Í LD

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FLAVOR

Dining in Style

The table may or may not be covered in white linen, but these spots have a new take on the meaning of “haute cuisine.”

Punch It Up

Selby’s

SELBY’S, ATHERTON A marble entry staircase, crackling fire and abstract art on black-paneled walls set the tone; the cuisine by Michelin-starred executive chef Mark Sullivan is equally sophisticated. There is Kaluga caviar perched atop a cured Hokkaido scallop, and the texture of the Alaskan halibut in beurre rouge sauce is as rarefied as the surroundings. After dinner, adjourn to the card room with a glass of rare bourbon or a martini served from a trolley. selbysrestaurant.com

THE TABLE AT MERCHANT ROOTS, SAN FRANCISCO Step into culinary history in a room bedecked with a glowing candelabra, custom ceramics and peacock-feather fans to honor Victorian opulence. Swan-shaped gougères, prawn consommé cooked tableside, foie gras torchon and snail caviar on the Snail Wellington all lead to the 21-layer chai Napoleon cake, a fitting ending to this 19th-century-inspired meal. merchantroots.com

Day of the Dead Comes to Life Community is the driving force behind Taco Jane’s second annual Dia de los Muertos celebration in San Anselmo.

Festivities begin October 26, when the team builds an altar in the restaurant’s driveway “to celebrate life while honoring the departed,” owner Matteo Boussina says.

On November 1, a group of Aztec dancers will perform a cleansing of the spirits ceremony at Imagination Park, then parade down the avenue to the restaurant, where the altar is cleaned using copal resin or incense “to push the bad things out,” Boussina says. While the festival comes from Mesoamerica, you don’t need a Mexican background to celebrate. “It comes from the heart; you can feel the spiritual,” says Boussina. After the dancing, savor the restaurant’s Day of the Dead tamales or keep an eye out for the tamale cart making the rounds on San Anselmo Avenue. tacojanes.com

Punch is having a comeback. It’s easy to make, requires no fancy ingredients (unless that’s your thing), serves a crowd, and gussies up in a flash with fresh fruit or inventively shaped ice. Jeff urkhart, the Marin IJ’s Barfly columnist and author of Twenty Years Behind Bars Volume II: Parole Denied (at Book Passage and jeffburkhart.net), shares some insider tips.

What is punch? Punches were the first cocktails, but they weren’t made individually; they were made in bulk. There are many classic recipes for all kinds: flips, eggnogs, grogs and punches.

What makes a great punch? Start with great ice. Use only water you like to drink to make your ice. Small ice will melt too fast and dilute your punch. Try making a frozen ring using a Bundt pan. Large cubes or spheres are visually attractive.

What do I serve punch in? Nothing is as retrocool as a crystal punch bowl and matching crystal ladle, but pitchers are also a great idea.

A slotted spoon helps, too.

Look on our Food & Drink page online for extended holiday restaurant listings. Burkhart’s Ginger Berry Sangria and Spiced Blackberry Daisy Bowl recipes and suggested garnishes can be found at marinmagazine.com/recipes.

BY CHRISTINA MUELLER

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well-lit corner cafe in Tiburon is a go-to for bikers, city commuters and locals. Diners will find Italian roast espresso drinks, freshly baked pastries and eggs for breakfast and a selection of soups, salads and paninis for lunch. 1 Main St, 415.435.8515, caffeacri.com b $$ Í BLD DON ANTONIO TRATTORIA Italian Located in Tiburon’s Ark Row, this trattoria serves authentic Italian cuisine in a quaint setting. Traditional selections include chicken piccata, veal marsala and housemade pesto. 114 Main St, 415.435.0400, don antoniotrattoria.com b $$ D MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service.

Favorites like the cheesy garlic bread and pesto keep customers coming back.

1 Blackfield Drive, 415.388.9100, italian restaurantin tiburonca.com s $$ S Í LD RUSTIC BAKERY California This location of the beloved bakery offers the same menu as the other locations in Novato and Larkspur, as well as outdoor dining. Enjoy a wide array of fresh salads, sandwiches and pastries on the boardwalk.

1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.797.6123, rustic bakery.com b $$ S Í BLD BR

SAN FRANCISCO /EAST BAY ARGUELLO Mexican Opened inside the Presidio’s Officers’ Club

by Traci Des Jardins, the restaurant serves California-inspired Mexican food and drinks. Here, Chef de Cuisine Jose Alvarez works closely with Des Jardins’ and the two draw inspiration from travels to Mexico to build the food program.

International wine is

served but it’s the over 120 agave spirits that are truly worth checking out. 50 Moraga Ave, 415.561.3650, arguellosf.com s $$ Í LD º AUGUST 1 FIVE Indian A seasonal menu inspired by the regional cooking of northern and central India breaks away from staples like curry. The interior makes an inviting atmosphere for modern interpretations of Indian cuisine. 524 Van Ness Ave, 415.771.5900, august1five.com s $$ LD º GATHER American Nicknamed the “omnivore’s solution,” this gem gets its menu inspiration from local farmers, ranchers and artisan food producers, but executive chef Anthony Lee’s microseasonal fare attracts vegans too. Brunch here is a weekend favorite (Berkeley). 2200 Oxford St, 510.809.0400, gather restaurant.com s $$ S Í LD BR

LA FOLIE French Chef Roland Passot serves critically acclaimed fare in this intimate, familyrun restaurant. It’s located in Russian Hill, but the menu highlights ingredients from farms in Marin and Sonoma and all along the Pacific Coast and the greater Northwest. 2316 Polk St, 415.776.5577, lafolie.com s $$$ D MAYBECK’S American Erik Lowe and Aaron Toensing serve inventive American standards, including fried chicken and bubbly on Tuesday and resurrection of Beef Wellington on Wednesdays. The chefs explore regional

culinary traditions and translate them into a Northern California lexicon, as evidenced by their playful menu and a Negroni-centered bar. 3213 Scott St, 415.939.2726, maybecks.com s $$ C D MERCHANT ROOTS American During the day Merchant Roots offers pastries, sandwiches, salads, pasta, cheese, and charcuterie, as well as gourmet pantry items. By night the space turns into The Table at Merchant Roots, an experience featuring a tasting menu. 1365 Fillmore St, 530.574.7365,merchant roots.com b $$$ BLD

PALIO Italian After closing down to undergo an extensive renovation, Palio d’Asti has been reimagined as Palio, and now offers a brand-new dining space, expanded bar and lounge, as well as private dining rooms.

The menu features different regions of Italy while maintaining an emphasis on seasonal, sustainably sourced California ingredients.

Dishes include housemade pastas, whole Mediterranean sea bass and numerous woodfired pizza options.

640 Sacramento Street, 415.395.9800, paliosf.com s $$ LD º

KEY TO SYMBOLS s b $ $$ $$$ S

Full bar Wine and beer Inexpensive (entrees $10 or less) Moderate (up to $20) Expensive ($20 and over) Kid-friendly

Í C BLD BR º

Outdoor seating Private party room Breakfast, lunch, dinner Brunch Happy hour

These listings are not intended to be a full review of the business, rather a quick guide to some of the most popular restaurants in the county.

For more restaurant listings, visit us online at marinmagazine.com/dine.

P R O M OT I O N

Consistently voted “Best of Marin,” Comforts offers fine city and home-style food. Our menus change frequently to refle t what is fresh, local and in season. We offer breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch, as well as take-out and catering services. The holidays are around the corner - let Comforts provide you with an easy and delicious holiday feast! For more information, contact Comforts Catering.

COMFORTS

335 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, CA 415.454.9840 comfortscafe.com

Pizza Antica combines the centuries-old traditions of Italian cooking with California’s freshest and fine t ingredients, creating a unique style of pizzeria in a class of its own.

PIZZA ANTICA

800 Redwood Hwy, Mill Valley, CA 415.383.0600 pizzaantica.com

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Marin Matters LO C A L PEO PL E M A K I N G A D I F F E R E N CE

Reading the Signs

Dr. Jei Africa, director of behavioral health and recovery services (BHRS) for the County of Marin, shares his thoughts on what steps can be taken to help prevent tragedy in our community.

BY SUSAN NOYES

How did you become an expert on depression and gun violence? My interest in mental health stems from being personally impacted by having loved ones that have mental health conditions. In spite of all the medical breakthroughs, the stigma of mental illness remains a barrier to many for seeking help. Unfortunately, mental illness has been solely blamed for the gun violence in this country. The reality is that most people with mental illness are not violent and are more likely the victims, and not the perpetrators, of violent acts. Research has shown that having a history of violence is the single best predictor of who will commit future violence.

Having access to more guns, and deadlier means, makes the situation more dangerous. A study in the American Journal of Public Health found that about 30 percent of the people with mental illness surveyed were a victim of violence within the six months prior to the study.

Please tell us about your hopes for the Marin County Suicide Prevention Plan. The suicide prevention strategic planning process started in November of last year with a comprehensive needs assessment to identify gaps and assets in systems and supports. This is the first time we are developing a plan like this — bringing different stakeholders together, seeing what we can do as a community.

We have to continue talking about suicide and bring it out in the open to prevent these tragic events. We anticipate that the final plan will be released by the end of the year.

What warning signs should parents, friends and others watch out for to prevent suicide attempts and gun violence against others? There’s no single cause for suicide. Warning signs to look out for in general include any changes in the way an individual talks or shifts in their behaviors or mood. These may include talking about or making plans for suicide; expressing hopelessness about the future; talking about feeling that they are a burden to others; displaying severe/overwhelming emotional pain

or distress; withdrawal from or changing social connections/situations; noticeable changes in sleep (increased or decreased); anger or hostility that seems out of character or out of context; recent increased agitation or irritability; increased use of alcohol or drugs; giving away prized possessions.

How do guns factor in? Suicide and gun violence warning signs sometimes overlap. It is important to look at social media posts and pay attention to the signs; 80 percent of school shooters told someone about their violent plans prior to the event. Additional signs may include a strong fascination with firearms or excessive study of mass shootings; excessive overreactions and/or aggressive behavior; extreme feelings of isolation or social withdrawal; being the victim or perpetrator of bullying; sudden change in academic performance; gestures of violence.

What resources are currently available locally to help teens and others who might be considering suicide or violence against others as a result of mental health issues? Don’t be afraid to talk about it. If you are worried that someone is thinking about suicide, ask them. It’s important for youth to tell an adult who can help, and to know that they are not alone.

Anything else you want to tell us? We have to work together to prevent suicide. We need to be informed about warning signs, how to reach out, to ask for help and be aware of available resources to support those who are in need. We can’t do this alone. m

Susan B. Noyes is the founder and chief visionary officer of Make It Better Media Group, as well as the founder of Make It Better Foundation’s Philanthropy Awards.

A mother of six, former Sidley Austin labor lawyer and U.S. Congressional aide and passionate philanthropist, she has also served on many boards.

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On the Scene

S N A P S H OT S F R O M S P EC I A L E V E N T S I N M A R I N A N D S A N F R A N C I S CO

E D I T E D B Y DA N I E L J E W E T T

Paul Hawken

Jennifer Siebel Newsom, Gibson Thomas and Kimberly Bakker

Helen Russell, Paul Coletta, Julia Jackson and Jennifer Bushman

• LIFEHOUSE More than 65 guests attended the September 5 launch of the campaign to a find a permanent home for Lifehouse. More than $1 million was raised.

Steve Talan, Sara Gallagher and Elisabeth Setten

• ART WORKS DOWNTOWN DJ music, libations and a plush VIP lounge were the highlights of the AWD Full Moon Dance Party held September 13 in San Rafael.

Jared Huffman, Mary Jane Burke and Jenny Callaway

MO DELONG (FUTUREWELL); RICHARD WHEELER (LIFEHOUSE, ART WORKS DOWNTOWN)

• FUTUREWELL This one-day educational summit held September 6 at Stemple Creek Ranch offered guest speakers an immersive experience related to human and planetary health.

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Bridgit Bewley, Milinda Lommer, Ashley Vellejo and Ivan

• MARIN HUMANE An evening of fun, food, fundraising (and lots of furry friends) was enjoyed by all at the September 14 event held in Novato.

Kathryn Horton, Bob and Sue Sauter, Gail Grossman and Bill Grossy

MO DELONG (MARIN HUMANE); RICHARD WHEELER (SAUSALITO ART FESTIVAL)

• SAUSALITO ART FESTIVAL More than 260 artists, food and drink and live music were all part of the fun over Labor Day weekend.

Daryl Thetford and Dolan Geiman

Suzanne, Craig and Keith McAllister

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John Wick and Riley Binford

Clara Yourman, Greg Lapierre, Tom and Nicole Bachman

• MILL VALLEY FALL ARTS FESTIVAL Attendees gathered under the Mill Valley redwoods September 14 and 15 for a weekend of art, crafts, music storytellers and more.

Eileen Goldenberg, Annemarie Cassidy, Leonard Nunez and Parviz Payghamy

TO SEE MORE EVENT PHOTOS VISIT MARINMAGAZINE.COM/HOTTICKET

MO DELONG (HALLECK CREEK); BARRY TORANTO (FALL ARTS FESTIVAL)

Dan Steadman, Sandy Webster, Brenda Falco and Molly Scannell

• BUCKLES AND BLING Guests enjoyed music by Buck Nickels and Loose Change, auctions offering unique items and dinner September 13 at the annual Halleck Creek fundraiser held at Rancho Nicasio.

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• Gucci • Ulla Johnson • Prada • Vince • Chanel

Open Mon–Sat 10–5 EncoreConsignment.com 11 Mary Street, San Rafael 415.456.7309

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8 0 0 -5 5 8 -5 8 5 7 Not valid with other offers.

Offer expires 12/5/19.

Marin Magazine Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation, PS Form 3526-R. 1. Publication Title: Marin Magazine. 2. Publication Number: 024-898. 3. Filing Date: September 27, 2019. 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly. 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: Twelve (12). 6.

Annual Subscription Price: $12.00. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Contact Person: Nikki Wood; Telephone: (415) 332-4800. 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor: Nikki Wood, President/Editorial Director, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965; Mimi Towle, Executive Editor, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965; Daniel Jewett, Managing Editor, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. 10. Owner: Fawkes Marin LLC, a Delaware limited liability company, c/o Make It Better Media, 1150 Wilmette Ave., Ste. 2, Wilmette, IL 60091; Susan Noyes, Sole Member, 1150 Wilmette Ave., Ste. 2, Wilmette, IL 60091. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. (Does not apply.) 13. Publication Title: Marin Magazine. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data: October 2019.

15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average Number of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months; Number of Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: A. Total Number of Copies: Average: 38,099; Actual: 38,174. B. Legitimate Paid and/or Requested Distribution: 1: Outside County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: Average: 0; Actual 0. 2. In-County Paid/ Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: Average: 20,871; Actual: 20,752. 3. Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid or Requested Distribution Outside USPS: Average: 279; Actual: 250. 4. Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes Through the USPS: Average: 0; Actual: 0. C. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: Average: 21,150; Actual: 21,002. D. Nonrequested Distribution: 1. Outside County Nonrequested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541: Average: 13,632; Actual: 13,833. 2. In-County Nonrequested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541: Average: 0; Actual: 0. 3. Nonrequested Copies Distributed Through the USPS by Other Classes of Mail: Average: 0; Actual: 0. 4) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail: Average: 2,790; Actual: 2,852. E. Total Nonrequested Distribution: Average: 16,422; Actual: 16,685. F. Total Distribution: Average: 37,572; Actual: 37,687. G. Copies not Distributed: Average: 527; Actual: 487. H. Total: Average: 38,099; Actual: 38,174. I. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: Average: 56%; Actual: 56%. 16. Electronic Copy Circulation. (Does not apply) 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the November 2019 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager or Owner: Nikki Wood, President / Editorial Director. Date: September 27, 2019.

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Marin Home FRO M TO U R S A N D M A K EOV E R S TO D ECO R AT IV E D E TA I L S A N D R E A LTO R I N S I G H T S

LABOR OF LOVE A six-year project transforms a teardown into a forever home.

BY DAWN MARGOLIS DENBERG • PHOTOS BY ALFRED YAN

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Marin Home / RENOVATION

O

VER THE COURSE of their 32-year marriage, Kathy and Miles Kilburn have set down roots in more than half a dozen cities and they spent a few years in Mill Valley in the ’90s. In 2012, after five years in Seattle, they decided to return to Marin.

As empty-nester house-hunters, though, they now had a wish list considerably different from when they lived in Marin before. “Last time our kids were babies, so priorities were distance to the store, nearby parks, and being in the good school district.”

When a hillside Tiburon house with killer views showed up on the MLS, in an area with a desirable microclimate, they contacted their realtor. “He said, ‘Oh you don’t want that one, it’s basically a teardown,’ ” Miles recalls. “We wanted to see it anyway.”

Immediately, they were enamored of the majestic views and how the lot seemed to be perpetually bathed in sunshine. “We were looking for something with enduring value, and willing to see past the flaws,” says Miles.

The Kilburns, seasoned remodelers, knew that with help from the right creative partner, the space could be outstanding. And as it happened, they’d already discovered the work of interior designer Caitlin Jones. “We toured a Kentfield house that she’d designed,” says Kathy.

“We loved it, but we were looking for a project, and that one was move-in ready,” adds Miles.

So they bought the “teardown” and engaged Jones to work on what they knew would be a multiphase project. Phase one was a “BandAid” remodel. “We did just enough to make it livable,” Miles says: shoring up the foundation, replacing the old sewer lines and remediating dry rot. They also tasked Jones with a few cosmetic upgrades. Most of these were benign — refinishing the existing hardwoods, replacing old carpet, painting interior walls.

The next step: sit tight and live. “We wanted to wait until we had a better sense of how we were using the space before taking on additional renovations,” Miles says. Then, in years two through six, the home was perpetually under construction. Redoing the kitchen

was an early priority; other upgrades included a down-to-the studs makeover of three bathrooms, demolishing the wall between front entry and living room, and carving out a laundry area. Over time, nearly every window, door and fixture in the home got replaced.

As did every stitch of furniture. The living room is a homage to high-low design.

Sophisticated yet straightforward Room and Board pieces — a dining table, sectional sofa and swivel chair — pair seamlessly with accent pieces such as a Jonathan Browning chandelier, a Meridiani cocktail table and A. Rudin chairs.

With just small interior details left to complete, the couple shifted focus to outside. For added curb appeal they ripped off a attered pergola over the garage, repainted the garage and replaced its doors. “We also widened the steps down from the garage to our existing front courtyard and added outdoor furniture and a gas fire pit,” Kathy says.

The six-year transformation was a labor of love that’s kept paying off ong since the construction dust settled. m

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THE DETAILS WHAT THEY OWN A four-bedroom, four-bath midcentury modern WHERE THEY BOUGHT The Hill Haven neighborhood of Tiburon CONTRACTORS Tracy Anthony of Lafayette and Denis Murphy of Connden Construction of San Rafael DESIGNER Caitlin Jones of Caitlin Jones Design in San Rafael FAVORITE DETAIL “The view from our living room swivel chair,” Kathy says. “I love how I can spin around and take in our surroundings from every angle.”

Opener: New garage doors and updated colors add curb appeal. Opposite: Unobstructed views in the living room. This page from top: The kitchen is small, but sleek and functional; Miles and Kathy enjoying their spectacular microclimate; a master bedroom bathed in sunshine; a bathroom with a view.

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GO OUT OF YOUR WAY TO (THEY WENT OUT OF THEIR WAY TO SUPPORT YOU)

Bowman Real Estate Group Vanguard Marin (415) 755-1040

BowmanGroup@VanguardMarin.com BowmanRealEstateGroup.com

Marin Home Team Compass (415) 819-6463

Sarah Wagner Rayburn Mary Thomson Victoria George Diane Wagner Michelle Reynolds

team@marinhome.team marinhome.team

Kathleen Clifford Compass (415) 314-6466

kathleen@kathleencliffordrealestate.com MakingMarinHome.com

Lita Collins Coldwell Banker (415) 515-5006

Andrea Dyer Coldwell Banker (415) 786-7997

Kathi Elliott Golden Gate Sotheby’s International Realty (415) 235-4024

Bitsa Freeman Vanguard Marin (415) 385-8929

Katrina Kehl Compass (415) 378-9267

Joan Kermath Compass (415) 233-3031

Sharon Kramlich Marin Compass Founder (415) 609-4473

Kathy Schlegel Golden Gate Sotheby’s International Realty (415) 699-7406

Michelle Steinhart Coldwell Banker (415) 531-1384

Katie Beacock Seadrift Realty (415) 868-1791

Chris Backer Zephyr Real Estate

Beth Fernbacher Compass

Conrad Gregory Coldwell Banker

Gary Newman Holmes Burrell Real Estate

Holly Welch Zephyr Real Estate

The Marin Association of REALTORS® works to ensure the business success of our members. We provide political advocacy, education, and ethics/dispute resolution services to 1,400 REALTORS® who work in 240 real estate offices across the county. The association, which was founded in 1920, is headquartered in San Rafael.

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Cover Represented by JOHN HAMMER The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage are independent contractor agents and are not employees of the Company. Š2019 Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Owned by a subsidiary of NRT LLC. Coldwell Banker, the Coldwell Banker logo, Coldwell Banker Global Luxury and the Coldwell Banker Global Luxury logo are service marks registered or pending registration owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. CalBRE License #01908304

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C O LD WELL B AN K E R RESIDENT IAL BROKERAGE

Truckee | Price Upon Request Beautifully crafted luxury lakefront property with top-of-the-line upgrades, private pier, Donner Lake Views from great room, kitchen & more!

Anna McGee 530.559.1296 anna.mcgee@cbnorcal.com | team@truckee-tahoe.com CalRE#01947697

Novato | $2,695,000 Extraordinary Verissimo Valle estate with pool and guest house.

John Hammer 415.971.4769 jhammer@cbnorcal.com CalRE#00975220

Kentfield | $2,585,000 4br/4.5ba Mediterranean home with 4,000(+/-) square feet of elegant living!

Peter Pickrel 415.385.8800 ppickrel@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01156183

COLDWELLBANKERLUXURY.COM

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COLD W E LL B AN KE R R E SI D E N T I AL B R OKE R AGE

San Francisco | $2,500,000 Prime location duplex + unwarranted unit.

Colleen Cornell 415.215.6346 Karyn Kambur 415.516.3221 CalRE#01489999 | CalRE#01785669

Belvedere | $1,975,000 Tastefully updated 3br/2ba home w/ wonderful views.

Randi Brinkman 415.602.0300 Sally Spencer 415.272.5763 CalRE#00997180 | CalRE#01204357

San Anselmo | Price Upon Request Idyllic 4br/2.5ba estate w/rustic charm in coveted Sleepy Hollow.

Novato | $1,495,000 Spacious 4br/3ba in Wild Horse Valley.

Abby Tanem 415.497.9542 atanem@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01301798

Sondra Oczkus 415.806.6064 sondra.oczkus@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01445455

Novato | $1,475,000 Architecturally majestic abode with stunning water & mountain views.

Abby Tanem 415.497.9542 atanem@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01301798

Novato | Price Upon Request Welcoming 6br/2.5ba private oasis with pool and dramatic views.

Abby Tanem 415.497.9542 atanem@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01301798

COLDWELLBANKERLUXURY.COM

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Tiburon | $1,495,000 Beloved 2br/2ba home with fruit trees.

Corte Madera | $1,450,000 Bright & spacious 3br/2ba single-level in desirable Mariner Cove.

Marika Sakellariou 415.713.8848 Marikadzine@gmail.com CalRE#01486869

Arnold Buckman 415.258.4105 arnold.buckman@cbnorcal.com CalRE#02090466

Novato | $1,189,000 Traditional Hamilton 5br/3ba home with lawn and garden patios.

San Anselmo | $1,175,000 Peaceful & private New England style custom home with 5br/3ba.

Marie Hoch 415.515.6040 marie@mariehoch.com CalRE#01981086

Sue Pence 415.269.0417 sue.pence@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01745825

San Rafael | $1,125,000 Dominican 2br/2ba single-level gem nearby downtown San Rafael.

San Rafael | $1,095,000 Remodeled 4br/3ba home with detached unit & private deck with views.

Jola Marra 415.257.2016 jolamarra@outlook.com CalRE#01710099

Rose Capurro 415.690.6762 rosecapurro@yahoo.com CalRE#01911774

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

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Novato | $978,000 Private 3br/2ba split-level home with vaulted ceilings and decks.

San Anselmo | $799,000 Quaint 2br/1ba in the sunny flats of coveted Sequoia Park.

Kristie Martinelli 415.412.4720 kristie.martinelli@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01943588

Abby Tanem 415.497.9542 atanem@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01301798

Novato | $725,000 Enjoy indoor/outdoor California lifestyle with beautiful two-story,

Novato | $339,000 Beautiful 1br/1ba condo, move-in ready w/ indoor washer & dryer.

Jennifer A. Palacio 415.601.3130 jennifer.palacio@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01208501

Toni Shroyer 415.640.2754 tonishroyer@hotmail.com CalRE#01876201

Tiburon | $789,000 Charming condo with view in coveted Tiburon.

Michelle Steinhart 415.531.1384 michelle.steinhart@cbnorcal.com CalRE#00957034

Novato | $679,000 Pacheco Valle 3br/2.5ba townhome/ PUD. Carol Courtney 415.608.6105 Marie Hoch 415.515.6040 CalRE#00995136 | CalRE#01981086

San Rafael | $589,000 Single Level 3bd/2ba End Unit Condo.

Carol Courtney 415.608.6105 ccourtney@marinhomesforsale.com CalRE#00995136

Novato | $448,000 Turn-key 2br/1ba home with community pool.

Kristie Martinelli 415.412.4720 kristie.martinelli@cbnorcal.com CalRE#01943588

COLDWELLBANKERHOMES.COM

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PRESENTING

E L E VAT E D LU XU RY. LISTED BY VANGUARD PROPERTIES

135 BELVEDERE AVENUE

WOLFBACK RIDGE ROAD

665 GOODHILL ROAD

233 ROUND HILL ROAD

BELVEDERE | $14,995,000

SAUSALITO | $10,000,000

KENTFIELD | $9,995,000

TIBURON | $8,950,000

SCOTT WOODS 415.419.4510

ALLISON SALZER 415.297.2110

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881 JEFF MOSELEY 415.602.7272

SCOTT WOODS 415.419.4510

2270 PARADISE DRIVE

8 TURTLE ROCK COURT

6 LIVE OAK WAY

TIBURON | $4,495,000

115 HIGHLAND LANE

TIBURON | $5,695,000

MILL VALLEY | $3,495,000

SAN RAFAEL | $3,463,000

KAREN Z. HARDESTY 415.265.3344

CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

TYLER STEWART 415.519.2434

THE BOWMAN GROUP 415.755.1040

7 TOWER DRIVE

16 BLITHEDALE TERRACE

902 VENTURA WAY

792 BOLINAS ROAD

MILL VALLEY | $2,795,000

MILL VALLEY | $1,995,000

MILL VALLEY | $1,849,000

FAIRFAX | $1,649,000

JANEY KAPLAN 415.272.0726

KAREN Z. HARDESTY 415.265.3344 CHELSEA E. IALEGGIO 415.300.6881

LORI SAIA ODISIO 415.747.6707

HOWARD WYNN 415.828.9966

MARIN OFFICES 352 Miller Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 | 1118 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 DRE# 01486075 | vanguardproperties.com

S A N

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M I L L V A L L E Y | Offered at $2,795,000 | 106GreatCircle.com Located in coveted Strawberry Point, this stunning home’s clean architectural lines, open spaces and sleek planes of glass create a home that showcases spaciousness, views and light. The exterior’s classic modernist lines and exquisite landscaping announces the impressive design that awaits inside. Expansive walls of windows throughout frame stunning Richardson Bay views and an open concept floor plan and direct access to the outside offer a sense of seamless indoor/outdoor living, ideal for entertaining and enjoyment.

Exclusively represented by

Chelsea E. Ialeggio | 415.300.6881 chelsea@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01394011

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DELIVERING

DREAMS

3 1 L O C K S LY D R I V E

3 9 L O C K S LY D R I V E

JUST SOLD | San Rafael

JUST SOLD | San Rafael

2 HOMES ONE DOOR APART, SIMIL AR CURB APPE AL

WHAT’S THE BEST STR ATEGY? . . . MAKE THEM DIFFERENT! 31LockslyLn.com | 39 LockslyLn.com

Serving Marin Clients

for 16 years

through impeccable ser vice, integrity and knowledge.

B

B

Christine Christiansen, MBA | 415.259.7133

M

christine@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 01393098

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C O R T E M A D E R A | Offered at $2,195,000 Sweeping panoramic views f rom the top of Mt. Tam all the way out to the Bay f rom dining room, living room and master suite. Beautifully constructed with high quality finishes, 4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, plus loft office and roof top deck. Gracious eat-in chef ’s kitchen has stainless steel appliances, glass tile, custom cabinetry and countertops. Open family room with French doors to lovely stone patio.

Attached two car garage with Tesla hook up. Close to trails and charming downtown Corte Madera.

www.9Fairview.com

Bowman Real Estate Group | 415.755.1040 BowmanGroup@VanguardMarin.com DRE# 01933147

MARIN MATTERS Providing Marin families more of what they want

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R E S U LT S

WE

ARE

AGAIN

AND

AGAIN

EXCITED ABOUT OUR NEW VENTURE W I T H VA N G U A R D P R O P E R T I E S

With over 50 years of combined experience, we know that every client is unique and every transaction is different. We’ve learned to listen, lead, and implement effective results. We are now excited to announce our new location at 1690 Tiburon Boulevard.

Vanguard has proven to us they are skilled experts, leading the real estate industry as a team, and taking everyone, including their clients, to new creative heights. Now, with our new downtown Tiburon location, we are even more accessible day-to-day to better serve your real estate needs. Stop by and see us!

Exclusively represented by

Nan Allen | 415.828.1500 Link Allen | 415.302.8877 nan@vanguardmarin.com DRE# 00823336

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L A N D M A R K WAT E R F R O N T E S TAT E

1 3 5

B E LV E D E R E

AV E N U E

O F F E R E D AT $ 1 4 , 9 9 5 , 0 0 0 | 1 3 5 B E L V E D E R E AV E N U E . C O M This project offers the opportunity to develop a state-of-the-art, six bedroom, 12,506 sq.ft. modern estate set on 1.24 acres of private waterfront on the coveted west side of Belvedere Island. Included are fully approved, permit ready construction drawings. San Francisco and Golden Gate Bridge views are featured from this incredible property. A private beach, boat storage facility and boat dock offer unparalleled access to San Francisco Bay.

Scott Woods | 415.419.4510

Bill Smith | 415.902.4456

VANGUARD PROPERTIES

COMPASS REAL ESTATE

scott@vanguardpmarin.com DRE# 01863705 www.ScottCWoods.com

bill@billsmithrealestate.com DRE# 012299135

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Making Real Estate Dreams Come True

Ranked in the Top 1% of more than 1.4 million Realtors Nationwide by REAL Trends

ÂŽ

Megan Pomponio meganpomponio@gmail.com 415.827.9229 megansellsmarin.com DRE: 01884035

Follow me on Instagram @meganpomponio

Compass is the brand name used for services provided by one or more of the Compass group of subsidiary companies. Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California and abides

by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. License Number 01866771. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been verified. Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footage are approximate.

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A BESPOKE APPROACH TO HOMEBUYING SINCE 1977 WE ARE ENGEL & VÖLKERS.

With a history of innovation in real estate and handcrafted attention to detail, our advisors offer expert local market insights and one-of-a-kind experiences, aimed at crafting a homebuying process that is inspired by creativity and individually tailored to every client. Our ultimate goal is not just client satisfaction, but well exceeding clients’ expectations. Engel & Völkers is the ultimate platform to deliver on that promise.

Engel & Völkers can only be as good and successful as its advisors. We concentrate our efforts on hiring the best and fostering their development on an ongoing basis. We are extremely proud that our managers and advisors give rise to such an open, pleasant, warm and respectful culture. We live by our core values: passion, competence and exclusivity.

We are proud to be a part of the large Engel & Völkers family. Licensed partners are invited to apply.

MONICA YA ZBEK Marin Count y Manager & Global Real Estate Advisor +1 415 480-9424 monica.yazbek@evrealestate.com DRE# 02063023

SAU

©2019 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. All information provided is deemed reliable but is not guaranteed and should be independently verified.

©201

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31 WILDOMAR STREET M I L L VA L L E Y

81 MADRONE AVENUE WOODACRE

504 & 506 SAUSALITO BLVD SAUSALITO

4 B D | 4 B A | 2 , 6 5 5 S F | 0 . 24 ± A C R E S O F F E R E D AT $ 2 , 3 0 0 , 0 0 0

3 B D | 3 B A | 1, 8 4 9 S F | 0 . 3 5 ± A C R E S O F F E R E D AT $ 8 6 5 , 0 0 0

D E S I G N E R S U P L E X | 0 .15 ± A C R E S O F F E R E D AT $ 2 , 0 9 5 , 0 0 0

George Cagwin +1 415 388-2629 DRE# 00329059

Michelle Clein +1 415 686-8544 DRE# 01194117

19202 TWIN OAKS L ANE SONOMA

38 WOODWARD AVENUE SAUSALITO

260 MACARTHUR L ANE SONOMA

2 B D | 2 B A | 1, 6 4 0 S F | 0 . 5 3 ± A C R E S O F F E R E D AT $ 1, 5 3 0 , 0 0 0

4 BD | 3.5 BA | 3,585 SF | 0. 22± ACRES O F F E R E D AT $ 4 , 5 9 5 , 0 0 0

3 B D | 3 B A | 2 , 4 8 7 S F | 0 .14 ± A C R E S O F F E R E D AT $ 1, 2 2 5 , 0 0 0

Marjie Orton +1 415 279-5510 DRE# 01096842

Catherine Cook +1 415 260-0453 DRE# 01241641

Carol Scott +1 415 971-5676 DRE# 01117957

Mike Monsef +1 415 828-3100

DRE# 01780760 STYLISH & CHARMING CRAFTSMAN

260 Macarthur Lane • Sonoma, California

Engel & Völkers evokes a real estate experience with the utmost competence, exclusive expertise and passion for all that we do. Handcrafted attention to every detail and meticulous white-glove service is what each and every one of our clients deserves. It’s our standard of service that truly sets Engel & Völkers apart.

SAUSALITO

53 9 BRIDGE WAY

KENTFIELD

636 CO LLEG E AV E

NOW OPEN • SAN AN SELMO

FAIRFA X

M ILL VALLEY

8 5 0 S I R F R A N C I S D R A K E B LV D

4 4 B O L I N A S R OAD

2 0 6 E BL ITH ED AL E AVE

SAUSALITO, CA 94965

KENTFI ELD, CA 9 4 9 0 4

FA I R FA X , C A 9 4 9 3 0

M IL L VAL L EY, C A 9 4 9 4 1

+1 415 887-9925

SAN ANSELMO, CA 94960

+1 415 847-4904

+1 415 675-1263

+1 415 870-4411

+1 415 634-5577

m a r i n c o u n t y.ev r e a l e s t a t e.c o m ©2019 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principals of the Fair Housing Act. All information provided is deemed reliable but is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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9/30/19 12:22 PM

Coming Soon to a Neighborhood Near You...

ZEPHYR: MILL VALLEY

Zephyr agents have already helped countless buyers and sellers in Mill Valley, but soon we’ll be opening our doors here to better serve your needs.

Keep an eye out for our new Mill Valley location, opening soon.

Don't miss the premiere!

415.496.2600 • ZephyrRE.com

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Real estate with integrity.

90 Adams Avenue, Mill Valley

124 Paseo Way, Greenbrae

Team O'Brien | 415.342.1968 | LIC #1832087, 1990538

117 Hillside Avenue, Kentfield

Stephen Pringle | 415.720.7832 | LIC #1326676

82 Paseo Way, Greenbrae

Kimberly Hering | 415.699.1617 | LIC #1917958

59 Berens Drive, Kentfield

Mark Machado & Erinn Millar | 415.298.7027, 415.328.4143 | LIC #1449763, 1327024

Jenn Pfeiffer & Holly Welch | 415.302.3198, 415.730.6168 | LIC #1339863, 2003709

142 Calumet Avenue, San Anselmo

Stephen Pringle | 415.720.7832 | LIC #1326676

415.496.2600 • 350 Bon Air Center, Suite 100, Greenbrae • ZephyrRE.com

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N E W C O N ST R U CT I O N

Digital

25Gilmartin.com Tiburon

5

4

BEDS

BATHS

2

1/2 BA

$8,995,000

Digital

Tech Savvy Experts at All Price Points 40 Years Combined Experience Exclusive Access to Off-Market Listings

Susan Hewitt & CJ Nakagawa 415.407.8349 | 415.407.2151 susan@sothebysrealty.com | Lic.# 00996144 cj.nakagawa@ggsir.com | Lic.# 01913564

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N E W C O N ST R U CT I O N – N OT O N M L S

Digital Rendering

Digital Rendering

Mill Valley | 346Laverne.com | $5,995,000 N E W C O N ST R U CT I O N – C O M I N G S O O N

A

0 Digital Rendering

Digital Rendering

Mill Valley | 216Ethel.com | Price Upon Request

Specializing in New Construction + Development Trusted to Sell Your Most Valuable Asset

Susan Hewitt & CJ Nakagawa 415.407.8349 | 415.407.2151 susan@sothebysrealty.com | Lic.# 00996144 cj.nakagawa@ggsir.com | Lic.# 01913564

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10/4/19 10:05 2:39 PM 10/7/19 AM

In Escrow in 12 Days 31 Gold Hill Grade Road San Rafael

5

BEDS

4

BATHS

1

1/2 BA

$3,995,000 Newly-Constructed Modern Farm House in Prestigious Dominican Neighborhood 31GoldHill.com

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10/7/19 10:05 AM

Thomas Henthorne

415.847.5584

thomas@thomashenthorne.com ThomasHenthorne.com

Lic.# 01892608

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10/4/19 10:05 2:41 PM 10/7/19 AM

Sun-filled, Bay View Contemporary Home

4

BEDS

3

BATHS

$1,198,000

Sun-filled contemporary house, nestled on Lincoln Hill with Bay views. Open living, dining and kitchen area with vaulted, open-beam ceilings, fireplace and Teak hardwood floors. The kitchen has an island, stone countertops, gas range, wine refrigerator and skylight. The master bedroom has a slider to the yard and a remodeled bathroom with tile shower, floors and skylight. 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom finish off the top floor. Downstairs has a spacious family room with fireplace and small front patio, 4th bedroom and a full bathroom.

Laundry room and access to the 2-car garage. The backyard has a nice brick patio off the kitchen and small deck with overhang for a hot tub. There is a large deck up the hill with a panoramic view of the Bay, Richmond bridge and East Bay. A great commute location just moments from downtown.

105Graceland.com

Contemporary Coveted Glenwood Home

3

BEDS

2

BATHS

$976,000

This contemporary house is in coveted Glenwood. Located up the hill, this 3 BD/2 BA home has an open floor plan, raised ceilings, views, fireplace and dark floors throughout. The kitchen has custom cabinets, movable island and opens to the family room. Updated master bathroom has a walk-in closet and hall bathroom has a Jacuzzi tub. Situated on a corner lot with a 2-tier level backyard that is great for entertaining or adding a pool. Bring your imagination. Large 2 car garage with laundry and work space/storage. Near award winning school, Golf Course, Yacht Club, parks, trails, McNear’s beach & China Camp. Highly desirable.

45WoodsideWay.com

John Zeiter 415.720.1515

j.zeiter@ggsir.com www.MarinFineProperty.com Lic.# 01325942

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Stafford-Ma

0

h d, e e o s p e m. d h h y. n. m

0

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/19 2:17 PM

5

BEDS

4

BATHS

1

1/2 BA

$1,949,000

5Rebelo.com

5 Rebelo Lane, Novato Exquisitely designed estate with spectacular privacy in the most coveted neighborhood in West Novato. This home features beachwood floors, cherry cabinets, three fireplaces, three car garage, and dramatically high ceilings.

The Epicurean kitchen contains a center island and breakfast area, covered with granite counters. This 5 bed, 4.5 bath house has amazing panoramic views and a beautiful level backyard with lush landscaping, patio, & pergola.

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Jim Stafford

415.706.6025

j.stafford@ggsir.com JimStafford.net

Lic.# 01372158

10/4/19 10:05 2:15 PM 10/7/19 AM

SOLD

SOLD

Kentfield

SOLD OFF- MARKET

$2,995,000 Tiburon

Private Family Retreat | 5 BD | 4 BA | 1 Half BA Represented Buyer and Seller

$3,495,000 Tiburon

Hillside Family Retreat | 4 BD | 3 BA | 1 Half BA

SOLD OVER ASKING PRICE

San Rafael

B

P

SOLD OVER ASKING PRICE

$2,795,000 Mill Valley

Resort Living on the Green | 4 BD | 3 BA | 1 Half BA

$5,000,000

Elegant Tiburon View Home | 4 BD | 4 BA | 2 Half BA

$3,250,000 Tiburon

Serene Sanctuary | 4 BD | 3 BA | 1 Half BA

$4,450,000

Elegant Tiburon View Home | 4 BD | 4 BA | 2 Half BA Represented Buyer and Seller

B

T

SOLD OVER ASKING PRICE

Napa

$2,250,000 Tiburon

Chic Wine Country Living | 5 BD | 3 BA

$3,250,000 Tiburon

Water View Gem | 3 BD | 3 BA

$3,999,000

Casual Mediterranean | 6 BD | 5 BA | 1 Half BA

GLOBALESTATES .COM

Lydia Sarkissian

Bill Bullock

Magda Sarkissian

l.sarkissian@ggsir.com

bb@ggsir.com

m.sarkissian@ggsir.com

Lic.# 00837358

Lic.# 02028978

415.517.7720 Lic.# 01159670

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415.384.4000

415.847.7913

10/7/19 10:05 AM

S

S

SOLD

SOLD OFF- MARKET

0

Belvedere

A

Prime Waterfront | 4 BD | 3 BA | 1 Half BA

$5,995,000 Belvedere

$95,000,000

Easton Point AKA Martha Property | 110± Acres

SOLD

0

Belvedere

A

The Tech Escape | 4 BD | 4 BA | 1 Half BA

0

$8,495,000 Tiburon

Waterfront Grandeur | 5 BD | 6 BA Represented Buyer and Seller

$5,495,000 Tiburon

$7,750,000 Tiburon

Grand Gated Estate | 8 BD | 7 BA | 1 Half BA

$25,000,000

Bluff Point Estate Lot | 14.5± Acres

SOLD

San Rafael

$5,495,000 Tiburon

Sprawling Country Club Estate | 6 BD | 6 BA

$6,495,000 Belvedere

Modern Hillside Estate | 5 BD | 6 BA | 1 Half BA

$19,500,000

Timeless Elegance | 7 BD | 6 BA | 2 Half BA

GLOBALESTATES .COM

Lydia Sarkissian

Bill Bullock

Magda Sarkissian

l.sarkissian@ggsir.com

bb@ggsir.com

m.sarkissian@ggsir.com

Lic.# 00837358

Lic.# 02028978

415.517.7720 Lic.# 01159670

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415.384.4000

415.847.7913

10/4/19 10:05 2:27 PM 10/7/19 AM

4

2 Mora Avenue, Fairfax

BEDS

3.5 $3,250,000

BATHS

Spectacular Custom Contemporary Home with Amazing Views Seamless indoor/outdoor flow in this impeccably maintained home.

3+bedroom, 2.5 bathroom house with a legal 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom unit.

2Mora.com

Dubie Breen

Black Mountain Ranch Point Reyes Station

2

BEDS

2

BATHS

$9,500,000

Black Mountain Ranch serves as the gateway to beautiful West Marin and is located between Nicasio and the town of Point Reyes Station. The iconic ranch spans nearly 1,200 acres to an elevation (1,334± ft.). Experience spectacular views in every direction, enjoy the historic, 13,400± sf, 3-story, redwood barn, or take a swim in the 25 acre-foot, spring-fed pond.

TheBlackMtnRanch.com

Rick Trono

415.640.4927

d.breen@ggsir.com DubieBreen.com Lic.# 01079071

1

1/2 BA

Broker Associate

415.515.1117 r.trono@ggsir.com | RickTronoSellsMarin.com | Lic.# 01045523

STINSON BEACH We have the beach house of your dreams. In Stinson Beach and Seadrift.

Call us.

Seadrift AT STINSON

415.868.1791 www.seadrift.com

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128 N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 M A R I N

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M A R I N N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 129

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Looking Back

DATED 1943

A Fine Ship

Liberty ships and Peter Donahue have history in Marin. BY JIM WOOD

T

has double the Marin County history. First, the shipyard is Marinship, a rapidly constructed facility on Richardson Bay in Sausalito. A typical day at Marinship saw 20,000 workers, many of them women, reporting for work on one of three eighthour shifts. During three-plus years of around-the-clock production, Marinship produced 93 oceangoing vessels, most of which were Victory and Liberty ships (the restored Jeremiah O’Brien, berthed at Fisherman’s Wharf, is a Liberty ship).

Liberty ships were 440 feet long, traveled at 11 knots and brought cargo, food and ammunition to various theaters of war. President Franklin D. Roosevelt nicknamed them the “Ugly Ducklings” of World War II. Regardless, the 12th of 15 Liberty ships launched at Marinship was christened the Peter Donahue — the second Marin County tie-in in the photo.

Donahue was born in 1822 in Glasgow, Scotland, of Irish parents, who brought him to America as a youngster. When he was 30 he started a San Francisco gas company that eventually became PG&E. His Marin endeavors involved launching the Northern Pacific Railroad, which starting in 1884 was based in Tiburon. Donahue was behind the building of not only many of the railroads that connected Marin County with points as far north as Eureka, but also huge ferryboats, such as the Eureka, which could transport more than 1,000 passengers and 10 freight cars from Tiburon to San Francisco (the restored Eureka is berthed at the Francisco Maritime National Historical Park). With such an important maritime history, it is fitting that a World War II Liberty ship be named the Peter Donahue. m

When he was 30 he started a San Francisco gas company that eventually became PG&E.

COURTESY OF THE MARIN HISTORY MUSEUM

HIS 1943 PHOTO

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10/7/19 12:34 PM

5953 Shoreline Hwy, Bolinas Offered at $3,995,000

8 Ocean Ave, Bolinas Offered at $5,500,000

115 3rd St, Sausalito PENDING | Offered at $1,395,000

2 Drakes Cove Rd, Larkspur Offered at $1,975,000

99 Quisisana, Kentfield SOLD OFF MARKET | $1,925,000

Exceptionally Cool Homes Jon DiRienzo 415.744.4161 | jondirienzo@gmail.com | DRE 01354297 Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California operating under multiple entities. License Numbers 01991628, 1527235, 1527365, 1356742, 1443761, 1997075, 1935359, 1961027, 1842987, 1869607, 1866771, 1527205, 1079009, 1272467. All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been verified. Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footage are approximate. Equal Housing Opportunity.

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10/8/19 8:45 AM

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10/3/19 2:29 PM