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No. 6 (June 2012)
DIVING, SNORKELING, BEACHES AND ATMOSPHERE IN SUMATRA
ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER This Pulau Weh bulletin has been published regularly since 2007 by CV Penerbit Haloban (PBH) and is now in its 6th edition. The current edition is financed by the European Union, through its ADRF (Aceh District Response Facility) Project, which is implemented by the GIZ ( G es el l s c h a f t f端r Int ernational e Zusammenarbeit). Diving photos by courtesy of Rubiah Tirta Divers, Lumba Lumba Diving Centre, and their friends. Photos on land by Mahmud Bangkaru, Rega and friends. Redaction can be reached by phone: +62852 7686 9101 or by balohanhaloban@gmail.com Advertisements, critic, advice, and information are all welcome. For a small multi language dictionary, please visit www.sumatraecotourism.com Foreigners normally use the geographical name Pulau Weh or Weh Island. Indonesians normally use the administrative name, i.e. Sabang. Here we use Pulau Weh. In Acehnese it would be Pulo Weh. Weh means move or go away. It can also be derived from Ie (water). Tapak Gajah Beach
VISIT OUR WEB PORTAL: www.sumatraecotourism.com
This publication has been produced with the assistance of the European Union. The contents of this booklet are the responsibility of GIZ ADRF and can in no way be taken to reflect the views of the European Union.
AROUND PULAU WEH There is more to see on Pulau Weh than Iboih, Gapang, Sumur Tiga, and Kincir. Pulau Weh is a beautiful and very green island with lush vegetation and with breathtaking sceneries. The wildlife that you will see is a lot of monkeys, sometimes jumping on your bungalow roof, wild boars roaming for food in the late afternoon and monitor lizards running away when you drive along the roads. Colorful butterflies and birds are common. North of Iboih is a protected forest. A walk along the road to the northern end of Pulau Weh is recommended. It is here that Indonesia
officially starts . A monument has been built to commemorate that. The spot is called Kilometer Nol (Km 0). The real start of Indonesia is however Pulau Rondo. You can see it far out to the north. From there it is not too far from the Indian archipelago Nicobar. Pulau Rondo has reportedly excellent fishing. It has also snorkeling and diving, but nothing better than Pulau Weh. If you want to go there, ask any boat owner near your accommodation. The cheapest alternative would be to join a fisherman from Iemeulee near Sa-
bang town. There you can get a good deal, as long as the fisherman can fish during the trip.
careful, the mud is boiling and it can be very hot in between stones going there.
Renting a motorbike or bicycle is a good way to see Pulau Weh. There are many small roads through the forests, orchards, and remote villages where you will become the attraction of the week. Some roads are in a bad condition and a few are very steep, for example coming down to Balohan from the east. Be sure your bike has good brakes and be careful. Petrol can be found almost everywhere in small stands; only Rp. 6.000 per liter. To rent a motorbike is up to. Rp. 100.000 per day. Bargain!
Follow the main road a bit further to Pria Laot where a small river flows out. If you follow it upstream you will see the biggest waterfall on Pulau Weh. Just follow the cement path. It is a beautiful place perfect for bathing and relaxing.
Wisma Mentari, at ferry terminal, Balohan. Ph: 0852 329992. 6 rooms. Fan, outside bath: Rp. 90.000. Aircon: Rp. 180.000
When you drive over the mountain south of Gapang you will see lots of monkeys waiting for passersby to throw them bananas. On the southern foot of the mountain, in Siruit, on the waterfront is an accommodation and a coffee shop. It is a nice place to stop for a coffee and to feel a hot spring in the sea and to see a hot mud pool on the beach. You can swim to the hot spring outside the coffee shop, but you need to dive down to feel any warm water. The spring is on a depth of app. 6 m. To see the hot mud pool, just follow the stony beach to the left. Be Guest House Mardimi, Siruit. Ph: 0812 6941 3179, 0812 6091 929, mardimi@ planet.nl www.pulauwehguesthouse.com 4 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 250.000.
Driving over the mountain to the south is also very nice. There are a few small lakes and a volcanic area with lots of holes, gas and bad smell. The locals in the surrounding villages often have to extinguish fires. Do not smoke or use fire in this area. In the relaxed fishing village of Paya Keunekai is a sand beach called Pasir Putih. It
is very beautiful during the eastern monsoon season (roughly the second half of the year). Both coffee shops on the beach are recommended. Two km further is the beach Pantai Cum, a.k.a. Pantai Bango. The following coast is desolate and perfect for solitude and finding own secret spots. Cars and motorbikes cannot go through all the way to Balek Gunung and Iboihs. In Keunekai, at the only junction in this village, turn down to the sea and you will find some pools with warm spring water.
AROUND WEH BY BOAT Many of the villages on Pulau Weh are fishing villages so it can be a good idea to charter a boat for a day or less to explore the coastline of the Island. Sharing a boat with friends can be very economical. Various locations can be reached, for example the waterfall, volcanic bubbles spring, remote coral reefs and secluded beaches where you can relax and enjoy a BBQ lunch.
SABANG The cozy Sabang is an historical town and it shows. Many old colonial buildings are still standing, shadowed by huge trees that the Dutch once imported from Suriname. Sabang is one of the few towns in Indonesia which still has a sleepy old colonial atmosphere combined with a very social and friendly people. Due to its excellent harbor and good water supply Sabang became an important coal loading station for ships en route between Europe and Asia. The Merbabu Graveyard has many old and interesting gravestones. The main attraction is however the atmosphere and the people. Enjoy eating out, the coffee shops, the morning market and the nearby beaches. Pantai Kasih is a nice beach in walking distance. Further down are the beaches Pantai Tapak Gajah and Sumur Tiga. The reefs along Sabang Fair are also nice for snorkeling. Don’t miss the traditional Acehnese coffee shop. Order a cup of coffee and sit down. Traditional cakes on a plate will be placed in front of you. When you are finished just tell how many you had. A small glass costs normally Rp. 2-3.000. A nice coffee shop is Pantai Jaya in Iemeulee on the waterfront. Try the balcony in the back. Open: 05.00-22.00. Next door is the juice bar Jambu Itebe, open: 09.00-23.00. All kinds of Noodles, called "mie” , are popular in Sabang. “Mie Jalak” is a Sabang specialty. Pulau Baru on Jl. Perdagangan 29B has become famous for it. A portion is Rp. 10.000. For good Minangkabau food (West Sumatra style) try Lumbung Sari on Jl. Perdagangan 7 (Ph: 0658-22678). For Acehnese food try Perkasa Utama on Jl. Perdagangan 157 (Ph: 21185). Aneka Ria has nice and price worthy sandwiches. All the kaki lima (food carts) they used to congest the main street have been moved
to “Rek” a new eating area near the police station. Nice BBQ Chicken, Octopus Satay, duck and much more are sold in in stalls around a open square filled with chairs and tables. Due to renovation it has temporary moved to the promenade area near Sabang Fair. area Otherwise there are many restaurants along Jl. Perdagangan and its vicinity. Fresh fish is a specialty of Sabang Food Court in Pasiran. On the southern outskirts of Sabang, on the waterfront with a nice night view. Open 24 hours. Beyond the RSU hospital on the sea front are a few nice places serving juices and light food in the evenings. One of the nicer is Paradiso Cyber Café, popular amongst young people with laptops due to free WiFi. Beer or other alcoholic beverages are normally not available in restaurants, but are often available in places serving Westerners, (for non-Muslims). Sabang Hill, The classical hotel on Sabang Hill with the grand view over Sabang. Tel: 0652-21999, acehsabanghill@yahoo.com www.sabanghill-aceh.com 22 rooms. With aircon, bath: Rp. 400-1.000.000. Suite: Rp. 1.150.000. Incl. breakfast. Discount during weekdays and for longer stays. Meeting room for 30 persons. Karaoke bar. Wisma Zahira, Jl. T. Umar, near waterfront. Tel: 0813 4882 0811. 9 rooms. With aircon, bath, TV: Rp: 250-350.000. Free coffee and tea. Kartini Home Stay, Jl. T Umar 25. Tel: 0812 6925 510, 0852 27065 5169. 5 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 100.000. With aircon, bath: Rp. 200-250.000, incl. breakfast, coffee and tea. Sabang Guesthouse. Jl. T. Umar 23-25. Tel: 0652-21186. 9 rooms. With aircon, bath, TV: Rp. 325-350.000, incl. breakfast, coffee and tea. WiFi. Hotel Putra Salju, Jl. T. Umar 16. Tel: 0652-22747. 10 rooms. With aircon, bath, hot water, TV: Rp. 200-450.000. WiFi.
Guesthouse Pantai Kasih, Jl. Sultan Hasanuddin 10. Tel: 0652-21066, 0813 7734 7444 (Ayie), www.pantaikasih.com 8 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 200-225.000. With aircon, bath, hot water, TV: Rp. 300350.000, incl. breakfast. Nagoya Inn, Jl. Cut Meutia 34. Tel: 065222311, 0812 699 6068 (Mr. Parlan), www.nagoyainn.com 19 rooms. Aircon, bath, hot water, satellite TV: Rp. 300500.000, incl. breakfast, coffee and tea. WiFi. Meeting room for 50 persons Losmen Calok. Jl. Malahayati. Tel: 0852 6036 2584. calok@gmail.com 8 rooms. With aircon, bath: Rp. 150-225.000. Losmen Sabang-Merauke, Off Jl. T. Umar. Tel: 0652-21928 12 rooms 1-3 beds. Very basic.
Hotel Holiday, Off Jl. Perdagangan. Tel: 0652-21131, facebook.com/holidayhs 24 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 100-200.000. With aircon, bath: Rp. 250-350.000. Montana Hotel, Jl. Surapati 20. Tel: 065222817, 0852 6177 5831, hotelmontana@ymail.com 20 rooms. With fan, outside bath: Rp. 100.000. Aircon, bath: Rp. 225-500.000. Aircon, bath, 6 beds: Rp. 600.000. Wifi. Penginapan Pondok Tapak Gajah, Lingkungan Keramat, Jl. Agus Salim. Near Merbabu graveyard. Tel: 0652-22378, 0812 6954 5700, iskandarmuda62@yahoo.com 12 rooms. With fan, outside bath: Rp. 75.000. Fan, bath: Rp. 125.000. Aircon, bath: Rp. 200.000.
Pulau Jaya Hotel, Jl. T. Umar 21. Tel: 0652-21344. 23 rooms. With fan, outside bath: Rp. 40-85.000. With fan, bath: 125.000. With aircon, bath, TV: Rp. 180.000.
Losmen Kartika, Jl. T. Umar 17-19. Tel: 0652-22168. 14 rooms. With fan, outside bath: Rp. 80.000. With Aircon, bath, TV: Rp. 180.000. Losmen PUM , Jl. T. Umar 3. Tel: 065221148. 13 rooms. Most with fan, outside bath. Some with aircon, bath, TV.
Pantai Kasih
SOME FACTS The province of ACEH covers 60.000 sq.km and is populated by 4.200.000 inhabitants., divided on several ethnic groups: The Acehnese in Northern and western coastal areas, Melayu Tamiang in the eastern coastal area, the Gayo in the central highlands, the Alas in the southeastern highlands, the Pesisir in the south western coastal area and a few minor groups on Pulau Simeulue and Pulau Banyak. App. 10 different languages are spoken in Aceh. North eastern Inland dominated by Bukit Barisan mountain range. Highest peaks are Leuser: 3,466m, Ucop Molu: 3.187m and Abong-Abong: 3.015m. The regency of Sabang (mayoralty) has 26.000 inhabitants on an area of 153 sq.km. The town Sabang with its app. 10.000 inhabitants was founded by the Dutch because of its excellent harbor and good water supply. Between the world wars it was even more important than Singapore. The Forest Reserve on the northwestern point covers 1.300 hectares. The Marine Reserve covers 2.600 hectares.
IBOIH AREA KINCIR Kincir, also called Iboih Long Beach, but officially called Teupin Reudeup is a bay with a beach a couple of kilometers beyond the junction for Iboih beach (Teupin Layeu) towards Km. 0. This area has recently become more popular and already has two dive operators and four accommodations Some hundred meters before the beach is the small Tien’s Place in the forest on the rocks above the water and with a view towards Pulau Seulako. Down at the beach are both budget accommodation and a luxury dive resort.
Accommodation Tien’s Place. Tel: +6285277775212. Fb: Tien's Place. 2 km beyond the Iboih junction. 4 bungalows with bathroom, Rp. 300.000. Discounts for long stay. WiFi. Restaurant. Nice hideaway, bakes own
bread, strong on vegetables. Pulau Weh Dive Resort. Jl. Km Nol Iboih. Tel: +62652 33324999, fax: +62652 2324900. www.wehresort.com 13 rooms, aircon, hot water. Rp. 1.250-1.900.000. WiFi. Restaurant. Seulako View Cafe & Bungalows Just along the main road. Ph: 085260920505 Iswardani, seulako.view@gmail.com, fb: Seulako View Cafe & Bungalows. 3 bungalows w. fan, private or shared bathroom, Rp. 100150.000. 3 rooms, fan, shared bath: Rp. 5070.000. Accept camping. Restaurant. Small shop with essentials and swap books. Parking. Steffen Sea Sports Home Stay. Tel: +62081360811848. steffenseasports@yahoo.c om www.steffen-sea-sports.com www.steffenseasports.sumatraecotourism.co m 4 rooms above the dive shop. With fan, bathrooms: Rp. 200.000. One six bed dorm: Rp. 250.000. Has also 3-pin plugs.
IBOIH The beach area near Pulau Rubiah has become known as Iboih. Teupin Layeu is the official name. This area has more of a backpacker feeling than Gapang. Besides diving, snorkeling, swimming and relaxing the area is also nice for walks, either north to the Kincir beach and Km 0 or south along the path to Lhok Weing. The island Rubiah just outside is worth a visit. There are even a few bungalows on the eastern beach. It is possible to swim over, but only if you are a good swimmer. Use fins and remember that the current in between can be very strong. Don’t do it alone. Otherwise, go by boat. KLKP View Information at the parking lot is owned by a tourism community group. They arrange boat trips, motorbikes, bicycles snorkeling equipment etc. Internet is now available in several places.
Food Several restaurants and coffee shops can be found at parking area overlooking the fishermen’s beach. They serve mainly Indonesian food. Just beyond the gate to the bungalow area is Café’ Olala and at the second beach you find, Dolphin and Mama Restaurant. Dolphin has WiFi and also serves Acehnese food. Beyond is Home High restaurant. Several accommodations have their own restaurants. International and Western style food available in all places.
Accommodation Prices fluctuate very much with the length of your stay. The prices below are just indications. There are also a few bungalows on Pulau Rubiah.
Yulia’s Bungalow & Restaurant. Tel: 0821 6856 4383 (Mr. Randi). 18 bungalows. Outside bath: Rp. 60-70.000. Fan and bath: 150-200.000. Iboih Inn & Restaurant. Tel: 0811841570, 08126991659. iboih.inn@gmail.com www.iboihinn.com 16 bungalows. Budget room w bath: Rp. 100.000. With fan, bathroom: Rp. 250.000. W aircon, bath, hot water: Rp. 350.000. Incl. breakfast for nonbudget rooms. O’Ong Rest. & Bungalows. 10 bungalows. Outside bath: Rp. 40-50.000. With bath: Rp. 130-150.000. Price depending on length of stay. Olala Café & Restaurant . Tel: 085260607311, eka_olala@hotmail.co.uk. 8 bungalows. W fan, outside bath: Rp. 70.000. Fan, bath: Rp 150.000. WiFi.
Mama Mia Restaurant & Bungalows. basic budget bungalow.
1
Fatimah Bungalows. Ph: +626523324107. 6 bungalows. With bath: Rp. 120-200.000 depending on season and length of stay. . Iboih Hill Bungalows. Reception in Dolphin Restaurant. Tel: 081360189132. 7 bungalows, outside bath, fan: Rp. 150.000. Discounts for long stays. Ayub’s 2 rooms and 1 bathroom in one bungalow. Rp. 150.00/room. Discounts for long stay. Ask for Mr. Ayub at the parking area or ask in Erick’s next door. Erick’s Green House. Tel: 082167899876. 5 rooms. Some with attached bath, all with kitchenette. Rp. 60-150.000. Discounts for long stay. WiFi.
Fina Bungalow. Just before the gate. Tel: 085262111366. Fb: Fina Bungalow. 10 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 150-200.000. Aircon, bath: Rp. 250-350.000. Price depending on season. Cut Agam Guest house & Coffee Shop. First place when coming down to Iboih. Tel: 081360363480. 4 rooms. Fan, outside bath: Rp. 150-200.000. Discounts for long stay. Pasta restaurant. Jelita Bungalows. Tel: 0821 6446 8376. 3 rooms. Aircon, bath, TV: Rp. 250.000. Pele’s Ujung Patek Bungalows. At the Petek Point, 500m south of Iboih. Tel: 085260958990 (adun), 0852 5370 2209 (Wani). doktorkalkyl@gmail.com 2 bungalows. With fan, bath: Rp. 250.000. Pulau Rubiah, Can only be reached by boat. Ph: 0813 774 11125 (Mr. Samsul), 0852 7746 4764 (Mr. Yahya). 8 bungalows. Outside bath: Rp. 100.000. Big two room bungalow with bathroom, kitchen: Rp. 300.000. Restaurant. Call for pick up. From Iboih parking area: Rp. 50.000.
GAPANG Gapang is one of the two most visited beaches on Pulau Weh. It has a wider variety of bungalows than any other beach, from very simple huts to air conditioned and TV-equipped bungalows. Besides snorkeling, diving, hanging out and swimming you can also walk to Balek Gunung. It is not too far. For seeing flying foxes, waterfall and jungle; ask in Limbo Restoran.
Food There are several restaurants directly on the beach, such as Mama Jungle, Zero, Limbo, Barracuda’s, and Dang Dang Na. International and Western style food available in all places. Don’t forget to try Naguna Warkop & Nasi up on the main road. They serve both price worthy and nice Indonesian food.
Accommodation Guest House Obama, Jl. Sabang-Iboh, 1 km beyond Gapang gate. Tel: 0813 6027 2270 (Mrs. Minna). 14 rooms. With aircon, bath: Rp. 200.000, incl. breakfast. Restaurant. Agha Hideaway. 50m above/behind the Naguna restaurant at Gapang gate. Tel: 0852 7744 2222 (Mustafa), gpg_m@yahoo.com 1 roomy bungalow, bath: Rp. 150.000 if fan, Rp. 250.000 if aircon. Great view. Good for long stays. Gapang Resort Former Leguna and Flamboyan resorts. Government owned, to be leased. Tel: 0652-3324564. 21 bungalows with 27 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 150.000. aircon, bath: Rp. 250.000. 2 and 3 room aircon bungalows: Rp. 350-400.000. Restaurant not open yet. Meeting room for 200 people. Dang Dang Na Restaurant & Bungalow Tel: 0852 6041 8854 (Mr. Syukur). 6 bungalows. With fan, bath: Rp. 100.000. With aircon, bath: Rp. 200.000. No booking over phone. Popular. Lumba Lumba Living and Living Colors Tel/ Fax: 0652-3324133, 0811 682 787. www.lumbalumba.com 7 diver adapted duplex bungalows (11 rooms). With fan, bath, fridge: € 26-30 . In new extension 6 rooms with fan, outside bath: € 12. Fan, bath: € 18. Chephest Bungalows. Tel: 0853 5884 9551. 1 bungalow. With fan, bath: Rp. 100.000, free drinking water. Vira Bungalow. Tel: 0852 9747 0446. 6 rooms. With fan, outside bath: Rp. 100.000. For long stay: Rp. 50.000.
BALEK GUNUNG
Jroeh Bungalow, behind the souvenir shop. Tel: 0852 6060 7416 2 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 100 000. With aircon, bath: Rp. 250.000. Free drinking water. Beringin Bungalow. Tel: 0852 7780 8024. 5 rooms. Fan, outside bath or with bath: Rp. 100-150.000. If you plan to stay a week or two, you can get big discounts.
On The west coast, just opposite Gapang is Balek Gunung. There is normally a small seasonal beach the first half of the year. Otherwise a rocky coast. A few caves are nearby. Goa Sarang can only be reached by swimming or by boat at low tide. Goa Kamprek is three small caves a few hundred meters away. A new dive resort has recently been established here.
Accommodation The Pade Dive Resort. Tel: 0652-3322 4500, 0652-332400, sabang@thepade.com www.thepade.com. 13 rooms, aircon, bath, hot water: Rp. 950-1.200.000, incl. breakfast and tax. WiFi.
DIVE OPERATORS Rubiah Tirta Divers, Iboih Beach. Tel/fax: 0652 3324 555, tel: 0852 8841 5820 (Ifan) 0815 3402 0050, 0812 8436 308 (Yudi). www.rubiahdivers.com Lumba Lumba Diving Centre, Gapang Beach. Tel/Fax: 0652 3324133, 0811 682 787. www.lumbalumba.com Pulau Weh Dive Resort, Kincir Beach. Tel: 0652 3332 4999, fax: 0652 2324 900. www.pulauwehresort.com Steffen Sea Sports, Kincir beach. Tel: 0813 6081 1848, steffenseasports@yahoo.com www.steffen-sea-sports.com www.steffenseasports.sumatraecotourism.com (In Malaysia: Pulau Kecil -Coral Bay, Perhentian Island, Tel: 6-019-9111256). The Pade Dive Resort. Tel: 0652-3322 4500, 0652-332400, sabang@thepade.com www.thepade.com
DIVING AND SNORKELING The visibility, the number of species, the big fish, the clear blue water, and both beach and boat diving, make Pulau Weh perfect for both experienced divers and beginners. All the big ones have been spotted around Weh: Mega Mouth Shark, Orcas, Whales, Whale Sharks, Manta Ray, and Sun Fish. Pulau Weh is the place to get a diving certificate. The prices are still very attractive, especially if you also have to rent the equipment. Two guided fun dives from boat is app. 25 € including full equipment. A non-guided beach dive with full equipment it is app. 12 € and a certificate is about 280 €. (Prices are only indications.) You don’t have to be a full-fledged diver to enjoy the underwater world of Pulau Weh. You don’t even have to go far. Almost everywhere you find nice snorkeling and you don’t need to compete with other snorkelers about the space. If you snorkel you will probably see hawksbill turtles. Snorkels and fins are easily available for rent; normally Rp. 30.000 per day complete with mask and fins. Underwater cameras are available for rent at the dive shops. Note that the several of the dive shops can pick you up at your accommodation if you stay in in an area without a dive shop. In the end of May, one dive operator plan to start courses in free diving (without equipment). Look out for it.
THE ONE MILLION DONUT MAMA Divers coming back from the sea are a hungry lot. Mama Donut knows this for sure. Mama Donut is an institution in Gapang and one wonder what the diving would be without her delicious donuts. Everyone knows Mama Donut, but maybe few knows her real name; Nilawati. She looks much younger than her 63 years. Ibu (Mrs.) Nilawati was born in Banda Aceh, but came to Sabang looking for a job. She had children who needed food and schooling. Her solution was donuts! Around 27 years ago she started to make and sell donuts. Every day since she has walked around with her donut basket and few have been able to resist her offerings. Finally, one million donuts later, we got a chance to talk to her and taste her donuts. Ibu Nilawati told us that she has given birth to seven children. All have been through high school and three through University and a forth on his way to university. Selling donuts every day has paid for all this. School and university is not free in Indonesia and for most people university is just a dream. Now Ibu Nilawati has 12 grandchildren. They can all be lucky that their grandmother is good at both making donuts and at selling them. Next time you when eat a donut In Gapang, remember that every bite brings a kid further towards higher education. Ibu Nilawati confesses that she always has wished to see the corals and the fish, but when we asked why she didn’t, she said: “I have no time for that. I have to make my donuts.” Mama Donut loves her Gapang beach, but wish it would be a bit cleaner and that there would be some nice benches where one can sit and take a break.
SUMUR TIGA and the East Coast Pantai Sumur Tiga on the east coast of Pulau Weh is during western season the best beach on Pulau Weh, i.e. app. the second half of the year. For long it was kind of forgotten and only visited by locals living in the area and a few foreigners who knew about its solitude and good snorkeling. The corals are not as good as in the Iboih/ Gapang area; however when it comes to the fish there are no complaints. Dolphins are often sighted further out at sea. Two resorts have been built here now, both with tastefully designed bungalows, international food and good service. Also two simpler places have appeared up at the road. On the point at the southern end of the beach is a new resort being built, already receiving guests. What is known as Sumur Tiga is a short stretch of beach, but in reality the beach stretches from Iemeulee and two miles south, thereby forming the l o n g es t beach on Pulau Weh. Sumur Tiga means the third well. There are actually five wells along this beach. The first well (Sumur Satu) is south of I e m e u l e e (meaning trickling water) in the beginning of the beach. After the second well (Sumur Dua) and all the way to the far to the far end, the land behind the sand
beach is steep and the trees give a lot of atmosphere and shadow for those who prefer. At the third well, i.e. the Sumur Tiga itself, is the bungalows of Santai Sumur Tiga. At the forth well (Sumur Empat) is a Japanese bunker built with forced labor during WWII. Almost at the far end of the beach, is the fifth well (Sumur Lima). Here is the bungalows of Casa Nemo and The Point. By now you should be able to count to five in Indonesian.
5001, santaisumurtiga@yahoo.com.au www.santai-sabang.com 9 bungalows and 3 family rooms. With fan and bathroom, hot water: Rp. 240-300.000. Complete international restaurant and an ala carte restaurant on the beach. Access to meeting room for 60 persons. Wi-FI. Booking needed. Casa Nemo, Pantai Sumur Tiga, Iemeulee. Tel: 0813 6299 9942. casanemo@yahoo.com www.casanemo.com 8 bungalows w fan, bath: Rp. 230-295.000. Complete Indonesiam buffet style restaurant. Booking needed. Wifi. Monle, Jl. K.H. Agus Salim, Ie Meulee. Tel: 0853 7180 8274. 5 rooms. Fan, aircon, in– and outside bath: Rp. 100-200.000. Perdana Beach. Jl. K.H. Agus Salim, Ie Meulee. Tel: 0852 6207 1939. 20 rooms with bath, aircon, TV. Rp. 200.000.
A bit further down the coast beyond Sumur Tiga is Ujung Kareung with more bungalows. The east coast has some nice sand stretches in between rock formations. It can be nice to explore the coast with snorkel, mask, and fins. Check up the current before you start. The road south is good until Anoi Itam, a popular place amongst locals on weekends. It has a black sand beach, a big Japanese bunker and nice corals. There are a few nice coffee shops along this road.
Workshops Sumur Tiga has become a very popular place to do workshops. The relaxing atmosphere of the resorts here offers an environment that promotes creativity that is much appreciated.
Accommodation Freddie’s Santai Sumur Tiga, Pantai Sumur Tiga, Iemeulee. Tel: 0813 6025
The Point Sabang Resort, Jl. K.H. Agus Salim, Ie Meulee. Tel: 0652-22433, 0821 6483 5879 ( Mr. Chandra), t hepointsabangr esort@gm ail. com www.thepoint.sumatraecotourism.com 39 bungalows/rooms.With aircon, bath, hot water, TV, seaview: Rp. 420.000. Family suite: Rp. 720-850.000. Excl. tax. Incl. breakfast Ujung Kareng Conference Center, Ujung Kareung. Tel: 0813 6025 5001. Managed by Freddie’s Santai Sumur Tiga. Fully equipped and serviced. Capacity 60 persons. 6 rooms. With fan, bath: Rp. 200.000. Tuna Paradise Resort, Ujung Kareung. Tel: 0812 6908 0080 (Andre), momde_39@yahoo.com 9 bungalows. With fan and bath: Rp. 175.000. With aircon, bath, TV: Rp. 350.000. Big restaurant. Meeting room for 20-30 persons. Small private beach Rasa Seni Hotel Resort, Anoi Itam. Tel: 0652-7010245, 0813 9685 8460, www.rasaseniresort.com 10 rooms. With aircon, bath, hot water: Rp. 450-800.000, incl. tax and incl. breakfast.
FISHING
hoo can be up to 2,5m long, weigh up to 80 kilos and can swim at a speed of 75km per hour.
Pulau Weh offers ample opportunities for fishing. According to one visitor Pulau Rondo is one of the “Top Five world fishing sites”. If this is true or not, we cannot yet say, but we dare to say it must be good! Fish that you can catch there are Yellowfin and Bluefin tuna, Tenggiri (King mackerel), Giant trevally, Bonito, Sailfish, and Wahoo. Wahoo is also called Jack mackerel. A Wa-
To experience the fishing at Pulau Rondo and other places, you can join a local fisherman in his traditional boat. Either arrange yourself, ask for help where you stay. Do a JUNGLE TREK to Gunung Keris, the highest peak on Pulau Weh. See the protected forest, birds, butterflies etc. Contact Mustafa in Gapang on 0852 7744 2222.
HOW TO “BEHAVE” The people of Sumatra have in general strong traditions and religions. They very much appreciate visitors that respect their way of life. Small changes in your western behavior can make a big difference. Here are some tips for you on how to “behave”:
Use only the right hand to eat food. In Indonesia you will be treated according to how you dress.
If you visit a Government office, “dress up”. Use long trousers, shirt with a collar and shoes. You will gain a lot in respect and service.
Placing hands on the hips is a sign of anger or arrogance.
It is rude to place one’s feet in a way that the soles are facing another person.
Don’t throw things to anyone. It is more polite to hand it over directly, even if it involves moving yourself a bit.
A FEW USEFUL TIPS When asking for the way, you will always get help, even if they don’t know! Always ask several people in order to get an average direction.
Men touching men and women touching
The meaning of “just a moment” can be
women are common and completely normal; but touching between the sexes is rarely done in public.
frustrating when waiting for buses for hours. It is just a way to talk. Have a coffee instead.
Western style swimsuits are considered
After having been asked, “Where do you
outrageous in less touristy areas. Near villages and when locals are around, please be modest. You can always ask a local if you are unsure.
When visiting a home, don’t forget to take off your shoes.
Avoid visiting Muslim homes at prayer times.
Always use your right hand when receiving and giving things.
come from?” “Where are you going?”, “How old are you?”, “Are you married?” etc. about ten times a day it is easy to get irritated. Just remember it is only an expression of friendliness.
Often in the countryside locals ask for presents or souvenirs. Don’t take it too seriously and don’t become embarrassed. It is more just a way of talking.
HANDICRAFT Most of the handicrafts found on Pulau Weh are made from the coconut palm. Somehow they are not good at promoting it and as a visitor to Pulau Weh one almost has to search for it. What you probably will see are very beautiful necklaces and earrings made out of coconut shell, often combined with seashells. There are a handful of guys making these at home and selling them to foreign visitors. Recommended! The government organization Dekranas has a small showroom. (See town map). In Ujung Kareung on the east coast (see
map) is a small factory making handicrafts of coconut wood. Several women make embroidery at home. The shop Toko Sabang, Tel: 0652-21140, next to PUM Losmen sells souvenirs, mainly Acehnese embroidery from the mainland.
TRANSPORT ON WEH The local transportation on Pulau Weh has been criticized for over-charging. The main problem is that there are not enough passengers to run a regular service between Balohan and Gapang / Iboih. Hopefully it will improve along the road.
To Gapang and Iboih it is Rp. 50.000 (minimum 2 passengers). The busses take turns in talking tourists in order to avoid price war. Prices and rules are valid in the harbor area. A becak is Rp. 50.000/ passenger.
Minibuses are waiting in Balohan where the ferry arrives. Local fare in a sometimes packed minibus to Sabang town is Rp. 15.000 and in a taxi or similar Rp. 20.000. To Sumur Tiga it is Rp. 25.000. An “ojek:� (motorbike taxi) is Rp. 20.000 and a becak Rp. 25.000.
Motorized becak are available in Sabang . Min. Rp. 5.000 per ride. Market to Sumur Tiga is app. 15.000, but price is a matter between you and the driver. To rent a motorbike is Rp. 80-100.000 depending on type and bargaining. A bicycle is Rp. 50.000/day.
GOING TO PULAU WEH TIMETABLE
From Ulee Lhe (Banda Aceh)
From Balohan (Pulau Weh)
Fast Ferry
09.30 and 16.00
08.00 and 16.00
60-90.000
08.00
19-37.000
Car Ferry
Daily Daily Mon, Tues, Thu, Fri. Thu, Sat, Sun.
Price (Rp.)
14.00 11.00 & 16.00
13.30
High speed ferries take 45 minutes and the car ferry takes 1,5 hours. They all leave from the new ferry terminal in Ullee Lhe. There are no airplanes. Note that schedules can change without
prior notice.
OUR WEB PORTAL
In www.sumatraecotourism.com you can find all the information you need about Pulau Weh and links to all the dive centers and other facilities . www.sumatraecotourism.com is a constantly growing web portal for Northern Sumatra. Besides Pulau Weh you also find Lampuuk Lhoknga, Pulau Banyak, Tangkahan, Bukit Lawang, Tongging, Kuala Baru, Singkil, and more. More destinations are in the process, for example Banda Aceh and Medan. We make regular up-dates. The latest issue of this and other bulletins can also be downloaded as a pdffiles. “General” and “Practical” information, video clips, dictionary, etc. With other words, there are many reasons to make regular visits to www.sumatraecotourism.com
Banda Aceh Banda Aceh was heavily damaged by the tsunami. Big parts of the town just disappeared. Since then new houses has been built by different help organizations. Banda Aceh was once a lush town with lots of trees. Slowly new trees have grown up shadow the streets of Banda Aceh again. If you have a few hours left over in Banda Aceh there are a some interesting places to see, for example the Grand Mosque (Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman) in the center if the town and the market behind and next to it. The Tsunami Museum Aceh is also worth a visit. Lampu'uk and Lhoknga to the east have fantastic beaches and good surfing.
Going to Banda Aceh Several airlines fly to Banda Aceh from Jakarta and Medan (Garuda, Lion, Sri Wijaya, etc), from Kuala Lumpur (Air Asia) and Penang (Fire Flyz). The non-stop night busses between Medan and Banda Aceh are comfortable. The major bus companies are PMTOH, Pelangi, Kurnia, Pusaka, and Anugerah. In Medan they all have ticket offices on Jl. Gajah Mada. All becak and taxi drivers know the place. From In www.sumatraecotourism.com you can find complete info about Banda Aceh, Lampuuk/Lhoknga, and transportation
there the bus companies have free transfers to their respective bus depot. The journey takes 10-12 hrs. App. Rp. 120.000 in 2+2 seated bus, or Rp. 180-200.000 in 2+1 seated bus. In Banda Aceh all big bus companies can be found at the bus terminal. The route over the west coast of Aceh with all its beaches and the central route through the Leuser National Park are scenic alternatives. They take longer time, but recommended if you are traveling around.
Transportation in Banda You normally arrive in Banda Aceh by bus or by plane. From the airport is an airport bus and taxis available. Outside the gates there are also becak. A taxi to downtown is Rp. 70.000, but possible to bargain. To the ferry terminal in Ulee Lheue is a bit more. In town there are taxi, becak (motorbikes with sidecars), and labi-labi (public minibuses) available. The cost for a ride with a labi-labi in town is min. Rp. 3.000. Tell the driver where you are going to be sure that you get on the right one. Most of them end up at, or originate from, the new minibus terminal a couple of hundred meters behind, the Grand Mosque. Always bargain when you take a becak.
AROUND PULO ACEH If you are adventurous and want to see something untouched by tourism, visit Pulo Aceh. It is close to Pulau Weh and Banda Aceh, but still so different. It doesn’t have the diving and snorkeling Pulau Weh has, but the beaches are breathtaking. Lots of forest is still standing and the scenery is very beautiful. The locals are very friendly and very social. Pulo Nasi is easier to visit with more facilities and shorter distances. There are also more motorcycle taxis, so called “RBT”; compared to Pulo Bereuh. The best beaches on Pulo Nasi are Pasi Raye,
Nipah and Lamtadu. Pasi Raye is very secluded, as one has to climb a bit to reach it. The forest behind it has Rusa Deer that sometimes comes down to the beach. The village Lampuyang is the major entry point on Pulo Bereuh, but it is recommended to continue to Gugup or the villages beyond to the north. Lambaro, Baloh, Rinon and Meulingge have great beaches. In the far north is a unique historical remnant; the 110 year old light house “Willemstoren”. Well worth visiting,
Pulo Bereuh
Willemstoren Pulo Keureusik has an amazing beach on its eastern end. So far there is no accommodation, except for Pulo Batee, but most locals are happy to help you out. Another alternative is camping. If you feel insecure, just ask the village head “Kepala Desa” and he will arrange something. Very basic. After your stay, leave some money for house and board in a hand shake. Read more in www.sumatraecotourism.com
PULO BATEE The uninhabited island of Pulo Batee has a few bungalows. Pulo Batee is 4 km long, has a scenic beach and some bat caves. It is a perfect place to hide. Pulo Bate Bungalows, Ph: 0852 7099 4060 (Mr. Andy, speaks English), andy_pulobatee@yahoo.com By appointment only. Supplies are brought in together with you and your friends.
GOING TO PULO ACEH There is a car ferry from Ulee Lheue Ferry Terminal to Lamting on Pulo Nasi. Normally Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. morning to Nasi and back after noon. Rp. 15.000. Traditional boats leave Pulo Aceh at 08.00 for the market in Banda Aceh and return back to the islands after the noon prayers, app. 14.00. From Ulee Lheue (near the bridge and Mosque) to Deudap and to Lamting on Pulau Nasi, daily: Rp. 15.000. From Lampuloh (along the river) to Lampuyang on Pulau Breuh daily except Fridays: Rp. 15.000, motorbike: Boats can also be chartered on Pulau Weh. The cheapest from Keunekai or Paya Keunekai. On the islands, either walk or take a motorcycle taxi, called “RBT”, common on Pulau Nasi.