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Valentina Roque @valentinaroque EMAIL: valentina@malviemag.com
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Letter from Valentina
I don’t know about you, but I see September as my personal New Year – it's Fashion’s New Year so I guess it makes sense, right? So many things will be happening at the same time in the next days, I get overwhelmed with excitment and joy just thinking about it.
Things even tend to get a little crazy, but in the best way possi ble. And that’s what I was thinking about a few days ago when deciding what to talk about it in this letter: what if we embrace crazy? What if we really take this month – or any other given opportunity – and set up all the new begginings we are looking for?
Let me make myself clear. Sometimes life gets a little crazy and we feel like we’re lost and won’t make it this time. But what if we don’t have to make it in the way we first thought of? Let’s restart and re-do everything and anything accordingly to the circunstances we have at the time – and try not to overthink it, sometimes the best you can do is just to get it done.
THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE
WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT FOR FASHION MAGAZINES? ALSO, IS IT STILL?
September, as you may know, is called ‘The Fashion Month’ along the industry workers and fashion lovers. The most important Fa shion Weeks are happening, new trends are coming and, of course, magazines are get ting a lot to work with. I’m not trying to say that fashion editors don't worry about the content of all issues – I can totally say that we do – but September is always something else, it’s bigger both in terms of editorial pic tures and advertising. But why? Let’s get de eper into it.
September issues have historically been considered the biggest fashion moment of the year for all magazines and fashion plat forms. Always packed with super glamoro us editorial shoots, prime advertisements and trends that will soon debut in stores, it really holds a special space in the industry. The September issue acts a big reset mo ment for people, they actually being in the industry as a fashion editor, model, designer or just by loving fashion. It marks the end of summer and it’s almost like it’s the first step in the direction of returning to “normal” life and routine for people. It also forecasts what's to come in the rest of the year and get us prepared for the new trends, styles and aesthetics – as Gen Z is saying these days, it's a way to show off the pull magazines have with advertisers as it's to be believed that the more pages an issue has, the better a publication is doing financially. We can un derstand why September is a much awaited month for fashion brands advertising, as it marks the beginning of the fall-winter se
ason, the most luxurious season of them all, full of the most in celebrities – that turn into sales for most cosmetic and fa shion brands.
All brands, they being already big and fa mous or just starting to make its way into the fashion pack, know that September is the highest season of fashion, so, as expected, they allocate large amounts of their annual budget to advertising in this month’s edition. You’ll notice that in the first weeks of the month we will be bom barded with advertising and previews of digital campaigns, and then we’ll find everything in magazines. For all of these reasons, the September Issue is always published by all fashion magazines, which coincides with the fashion week in New York, Milan, Paris, and London, the most famous ones and in which the most re levant collections of the most known desi gners are presented. At the time, all of the big, famous and important stores begin to exhibit their autumn-winter collections. Going from hot to cold weather makes new trends begin to emerge, so all ma gazines – like ourselves here in MALVIE – work on delivering the most memora ble, extensive and innovative issue of the year. It’s supposed to make people want to get the actual issue, not just the virtual edition of it. To make people excited to get it and read the stories, see the editorials. It’s supposed to be a real object of desire. In the regular calendar, September may be the ninth month, but in the fashion calen
dar it is the beginning of a whole new year, as it sets the mood for the next two seasons. We get to know which pieces are coming out, which ones are appearing, which colors will be must-haves during the spring of the follo wing year.
As it’s the end of summer, there's a back-to -school feeling in the air, summer holidays have ended and the mood shifts. It's a period of reinvention and fresh starts, both in fashion and in life – and your wardrobe must match your life, right? - when the summer dresses you wafted about in all season no longer feel like the right choice. It's the perfect time for shopping and getting new pieces for this new moment. Fashion at its best is a reflection of public desires, so consequently offers up more inspiration and style notes than usual this month to help you find what you need to reinvent yourself. Not that long ago, it t used to be normal that June, July and August issu es featured less fashion editorials because there were less new clothes in stores, and a lot was on sale as space was being made for the September collections, but it’s safe to say that this is changing as new drops land on shop floors throughout the year and with the rising popularity of seasonless collections, but still the power of the September issue re mains.
Of course, as social media changed every thing we used to know, things are a little diffe rent today. Last year, The New York Post even declared September issues "dead," pointing to a lack of publishing funds. While it seems publishers stopped reporting on ad page co unts a couple of years ago, saying that reve nue comes through many different channels now, there's no denying that the issues aren't as thick as they used to be. Not to mention the many print magazines that have shutte red over the last few years. But we do have a lot of industry insiders that think of brand ad campaings to be as beautiful as the fashion stories inside the magazine, so although now some of these carefully-crafted images appe ar online before they hit print pages, we can’t say that the issue has lost its importance and impact in Fashion.
Though some of the original hype of a Sep tember issue has faded, a very important thing for it to mantain it’s level of interest is the choice of the cover. Cover stars are often chosen because they have a certain fashion kudos, whether a top level model or a well known fashion influencer. This, along with the new autumn/winter edits, makes for a ripe advertising environment that its definitely a real statement time for all ma gazines. We always aim for a cover star with fashion clout, but also someone that has something interesting to say, someone who's really having a moment. A good co ver will capture the attention of the internet and people will share the image with the ir followers, usually with accompanying praise. Even though it’s in rare cases that they will actually read the story and in ra rer cases go out and buy an issue, it's the initial engagement that's important and no teworthy. A magazine cover is all at once a cultural statement, a conversation starter, a negotiating asset, a digital selling point, and most important, a mood.
No one can ignore the sheer numbers po wer that online offers, but advertisers still want in on the prestige. And that’s why the trend forecasting purpose of the Septem ber issue can never become irrelevant, even with the immediacy of digital and social media. The traditional point of a Septem ber print issue is to reveal that year's fall fashion, and even now that people no lon ger need a physical magazine to tell them what's about to be trending, the feeling of having it in our hands and being able to take a break and make our sceen times go down is unmatched. A publication can al ways tell them that they don't already know and make them think about what they are reading in different ways. For now, the re putation of the September issue remains.
Valentina Roque
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Photographer: Anastasiia Iliainen @iliainenanastasia Model: Vasilisa
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Racism goes against everything we believe here in MALVIE
Whether it comes in big gestures, like bullying and name-calling, or disguised as “jokes”, racism is violent. It is always aggressive and has the only purpose to oppress people. And that is something we can no longer tolerate.
As we live in a world where people are being discriminated and even murdered for their skin color and genetic features, it is our mission to try to make life a little less scary.
You deserve to be respected and appreciated for who you are, and nobody has the right or the power to say otherwise.
We know we cannot change everything on our own, but we are doing our best to help in any way possible and to show our support in the making of a society in which everyone is safe, respected and gets ev ery opportunity they deserve.
We know it will take time for us to make big chang es with worldwide im pacts, but we can try and start somewhere. That’s why we created MALVIE Noir, a special edition des tined to empower people of color and make their voices heard through the art. Also, in the immedi ate term, we are donating proceeds to a black led or ganizations that fights ra cial injustice.
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