ACME by manfei li

C acme |akm| noun [ in sing. ] the point at which someone or something is best, perfect, or most successful

ACME Art Director Manfei Li Creative Director Shani Tsfoni Producer Faith Newton Editor In Chief Emily Cole Editionrial Director Lucia Dunlap Contributing photographers Contributing Stylists Contributing Writers Type design Publiser Pringt house Prepress International Distribution And a special thank you to: Max Condon Orielle Tsigelman Christina Calma Sabrina McCrackem Chloe Ayoub Theo Gough Julia Morgon Gyspy World

This season’s cover comes from Landed; an editorial based on the idea of taking traditional studio set-ups outside. The initial idea expanded into utilizing the environment around us. The Spring/Summer 2018 issue of ACME discusses what is considered the pinnacle of success in terms of fashion, but we are in times where traditions are being dismantled. Pierced features local artist Lucia Marti’s jewelry in a modern interpretation of a still life. We wanted to explore shapes, colors and how to transform a simple object into something more compelling and dynamic. Grey Matter highlights the designer Chloe Ayoub’s senior collection. The grey, white, and black clothing against the sweeping emptiness of an abandoned skatepark at sunset captures the garment’s beautiful lines. Dying Mall juxtaposes a part of the fashion industry that is dying to a part that is flourishing. With somewhat of a somber mood, we wanted to demonstrate how hollow American malls have become, but amongst that creativity and luxury fashion is being shifted.

Table of Contents

Dying Mall

Complexion

Noah Towne

Disparate Youth

58 80

No Type Grey Matter

92 104

Hong Kong Nikki Kaia Lee

98 110

S/S Trends

Directional Signs

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118

Pierced

Landed

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Letter

ACME accounts for all the points that intersect to reach a state of perfection. When approaching the S/S 18 issue for ACME, we thought about where fashion is today. Currently, we are in a state where things change faster than they begin. Part of the industry is failing in its attempts to dig itself out of a traditional hole, while another is beginning to flourish. So we ask, what is the pinnacle of success? What is perfection in the now? There are no concrete answers, rather layers upon layers of interpretations. This issue is simply a reaction to what seems like the untamable industry that is constantly keeping us on our toes. ACME aims to step outside predetermined lines and explore the beauty and creativity in the things yet explored.

Love

DYING MALL Photography

JESS FARRAN Model

SKYLER GUIDERA Written by

LUCIA DUNLAP

The American mall as we know it is disappearing. Like many things, this can largely be accredited to the power of the Internet. While online retailers like Amazon and Ebay have seen a continual growth in sales, America’s most iconic stores such as Macy’s and JC Penney are closing their doors across the nation. Because these department stores are going away, so are the specialty stores like Gap and J Crew. Many Americans visit a mall to go to department stores, then go to the smaller stores once they’re there. When retailers like Macy’s close, it’s difficult for owners to find tenants to replace them with such large spaces. These big closings directly correlate to the decline in foot-traffic at malls. In 2010, there were 35 million visits to malls in the US. By 2013, there were 17 million visits- a sharp 50% decline according to Business Insider. Today, Americans are more likely to spend on technology and experiences, leaving less money for clothing. This has led to a huge rise in discount retailers and fast-fashion chains due to their lower price points. When people do shop at traditional full-price retailers however, they increasingly prefer to do so online. “Online is cannibalizing the store business,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at the National Purchase Diary Group. The weight of the change may just be beginning. Online shopping has allowed customers to hunt for the best prices through comparison, which shrinks profit margins at many stores. Retailers have responded by getting stores to cut costs, leaving more malls empty and more people without jobs. According to The Business of Fashion, in 2000, for every dollar spent at physical stores, just 30 cents were spent online. Now, the online category makes up nearly 70 cents for every dollar spent at stores.

Another factor of the Internet and the decline of malls has to do with social media. People used to shop at malls to see what trends the mannequins displayed. Now, we look to social media for inspiration and to discover new brands. Apps like Depop are also on the rise where you become your own retailer- the service provides a mobile marketplace that enables individuals to buy and sell their items on iOS and Android platforms. Another threat to malls are anti-malls. The Lab in Costa Mesa, about 45 miles south of Los Angeles, is the first known anit-mall that was established in 1994. It has created the mold that has been copied throughout America. “The American mall tries to be all things to all people, which is hopeless,” says Shaheen Sadeghi, the founder of The Lab. Anti-malls are “outdoor strip malls that we see in many suburbs that create a walkable, treelined town center that combine community, thoughtful design, and carefully curated boutiques with specialty eateries. They are a far cry from the 80’s supermall and feel completely fresh.” Even though the idea of malls are becoming more and more outdated with the abundance of online shopping and anti-malls, there is still a sadness in the thought of them closing-not to mention the loss of many jobs. The mall is synonymous with American culture and it’s strange to think of teenagers not experiencing that first time to be dropped off at the mall to hang out unsupervised. Being in mall now almost feels like a time capsule, not much has changed in many of them since the 80’s. But, times change and we must adapt to look into the future of retail.

NOAH TOWNE Photography

EMMA CRAFT Interview by

LUCIA DUNLAP

What is your ritual before you start to work? I need to get into a mental and physical state of ‘flow’ whether the entire process becomes fluid and I can fully trust my intuitions, without directly thinking about or contextualizing exactly what it is I’m doing. I will work up until the last possible minute, so it’s not quite ideal to clean up the mess. I leave the mess until next time, which is quite a therapeutic segway back into the making process.

Can you talk about some of the things you have posted on the wall in your studio, what are they, what do they mean to you? And can you talk about some of the other things you have in your studio? The objects are very often found images, from postcards to pieces of the paper I pick off the street that I find to have a valuable history within them. The old white TV and record player, are analog technologies that I find much more personal and formally interesting that anything digital, and they help to keep me physically engaged with the space of the studio.

What is the inspiration behind the Newport series? What is the process of making it? The Newports are a series of painting that are representational examinations of crushed, neglected packs of Newport cigarettes that I find and take from the street. I take the exact silhouette of a pack, blow it up to 6x the size, build a custom stretcher to match, stretch the canvas over that, and proceed to paint the visible imagery of the pack as accurately as I can. The reason this series came about, was because I noticed that out of all of the discarded packs of cigs populating the ground, 9/10 would be Newports. Newport had been the first pack of cigarettes that I smoked as a 14-year-old. What will you miss the most about your studio space? What I will miss about having a studio upstairs at Alexander Hall, is all of the comraderies with fellow students and classmates, the everoccurring conversations and studio visits with professors, which all greatly contribute to my drive to make and consider things in the art context. What would be your ultimate end goal / where do you see yourself in the next 5 to 10 years? The ultimate end goal is to make and be concerned with Art until my last breath really, but it is very important to me as well to exist in communities of real people, in geographically close proximity, who care to examine things and learn in the same way that I do. In 5 years, potentially, I hope to be in or have completed grad school or be much more culturally involved in the arts wherever I am living. Also, working for not-for-profits organization using the Arts to assist impoverished youths in America.

GREY MATTER Photography

ANGIE STONG Designer

CHLOE AYOUB Model

EMMA CRAFT

COMPLEXION Photography LAURA MAE BECKERDITE Models ELISE LOWERY AJ FRANCE-SLUKA DULCE CORAZON MICHELA MAGNANI

NO TYPE Written by

FAITH NEWTON

From a young age, we are told we can be who we want to be. Who’s to say we aren’t all stereotypes, and we can only be what society tells us is acceptable for our race, culture, or social status. There are stereotypes for all facets of life and for all different types of people ranging from the angry black woman to the submissive Asian woman to the oppressed Muslim woman. It’s up to us to ask, will we let the world shape us or will we shape the world?

As Maya Angelou said, “Does my sassiness offend you?” Why do we have to cater to the stereotypes that we allow to define us? As a black woman with hopes of entering the fashion industry, it is important to recognize everyone’s plight. The definition of a stereotype is a widely held but fixed and oversimplified image or the idea of a particular type of person or thing. While blatant disregard for a race is no longer prominent, prejudice and stereotypes still thrive. It is always a choice of whether you want to end the stereotype or perpetuate the stereotype. Everyone faces challenges throughout their lives that could keep them from reaching their peak in life. When asking my friends about this topic, they had a few points they wanted to share. Sabrina McCracken, a senior at SCAD, informed me, “Oriental can only

The “model minority” as they are called. Model, or

describe the flavor for your ramen noodles. Not

a system or thing used as an example to follow or

only is it offensive, it is not even a place.” Christina

imitate. You’ve already thought of that minority.

Calma, a freshman from Navarre, Florida, then

The token ones that have skin as milky as cream,

added, “Yes, I am interested in college, and no, it

and the intelligence to take over the world, but

isn’t math or cosmetology.”

none of the assertiveness. Who is it? Your high school friend who excelled in math and science, or is it your college roommate who is an animation major? Don’t act as though you have never thought that way. This is where the prejudice comes into play. This prejudice turns into a bias, and thus, stereotypes are born. Stereotypes are like being put into a room under quarantine just because of a sneeze. Does it matter if the stereotype is positive or negative when you are still being labeled?

All forms of art are judged based on looks and the feeling that are invoked. Now, think of people as art. Everyone is different. There could be a deeper meaning, and no one but the artist knows the actual plight of the piece. Now, look at the person beside you. How would you describe them? Shakespearean drama always reads as if you consistently read. Moreover, as Juliet Capulet said it best, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose. By any other name would smell as sweet.”

DISPARATE YOUTH Photography KATIE WALKER Models MAX CONDON ALFONSSETTE MEDINA

HONG KONG Photography

EMMA CRAFT

S/S 2018 TRENDS Words by

ACME

//ELEVATED BLOUSE// A style that was once borrowed from the boys has become a staple in a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe. The classic white button down has come a long way and is reemerging as a trend this coming season. The iconic silhouette is updated to create a new and modern feel and comes in a variety of different sizes and styles. The sleeves alone are a statement piece. The oversized dress shirt is not new to the runway, but this coming season there will be an exaggeration to the size of the shirt with boxy silhouettes and elongated pockets. Nipped in shirts come into play, creating a more feminine approach by showing off the waist with a layered corset or hook and eyes sewn into the shirt itself. Voluminous balloon sleeves update the classic white shirt while a dropped shoulder mimics an oval shape, emphasizing the sleeves.

//URBAN UTILITY// Upcoming trends show that fashion will shift to utilitarian style and will focus on the idea of lifestyle. The construction of the clothes is practical and functional, where utility dressing is military inspired with large pockets and lapels. Styling is layered and oversized while accessories are functional and aesthetically advanced. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a new approach to construction with utilitarian themes and humble embellishments that are both raw and functional

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//HOME WORKER// This lounge, home-office story leads us into the winter months with cozy woolmix fabrics and comfort layering that sits between work and leisure dressing. Soft tailoring is a key element and essential wardrobe pieces are refined. Wide-leg trousers work perfectly with slim, high neck knits. This style element derives from The Thinker, which is retro, preppy and at times a bit awkward with a focus on the era of enlightenment where education is valued. Inspiration comes from the rebellious Beatniks with highlights on dissolving the boundaries between work and leisure.

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//PUFFER JACKET// The moment that fire-engine red puffer coat came down the runway from Demna Gvasalia’s debut at Balenciaga, it was destined to become the “it” coat. Soon after, the puffer was popping up in editorials and runways everywhere. The puffer coat is a key piece for the fall/winter season not only in its functionality for providing warmth but with its ability to make a statement. Functional fashion has never been more in than it is now.

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//INDUSTRIAL METAL// Textiles for A/W 18/19 focus on creating the look of brushed pewter and silver. Inspired from corrugated steel and wire mesh, the mimicked metal will be featured on Nylons and rubbed metal leathers with moldable steel and reflective filaments. Industrial metal is inspired by the construction of cities and the rough urban-dwellers that live there.

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NIKKI KAIA LEE Interview by

EMILY COLE

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When did you put the pieces together that you wanted to be in fashion? My parents are both architects so at a young age I was exposed to design and design theory. I moved from Switzerland when I was three and at first, we lived in this tiny little house. My mom didn’t buy me toys, but bolts of fabric to play with so I think I’ve been interested in fabric and manipulating it from that point on. It was just an easy transition. There was a brief point where I wanted to be an astronaut. What is the inspiration for the current collection you are working on? I’ve been pretty involved in the house music scene in Savannah and when I was in New York over the summer working. There is always this specific moment when you are leaving the club and the sun is starting to coming up and that always stood out to me. People would be going into work when others would be leaving the after hours of the clubs. I found that intersection really interesting. Both parties of people would be exhausted, but for different reasons. My collection is about merging those two worlds; so I’m recreating business pin striping with party wear elements.

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Tell us about your mentorship with Francisco Costa and how did you get it? The selection process was pretty complicated. We had to submit our projects to the dean and then he selected around 14 people who interviewed with Costa. He’s been down to Savannah around four times since then and it has honestly been one of the most rewarding experiences of my college career. I respect him so much. The way he designs has been so influential and he’s definitely helped me find my voice. What has been your biggest turning point as a designer? I knew I wanted to go somewhere in fashion, but I didn’t know which niche. One summer I was interning at Oscar de la Renta and I was randomly assigned to the textile designer. I finally realized that’s where my heart was. Honestly, designing garments isn’t what’s really exciting for me it’s the development of the textiles.

What do you do to help yourself find inspiration? Luckily for me, this concept merged a lot of the things I love in the terms of house music and keeping it textile focused. The inspiration wall never really grew dry for me. I look at a lot of art and textile development.

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How did your trip to Berlin play a part in this collection? The club scene is very prominent there. Everything is closed on Sundays for instance. I met this guy who said he would leave the office at the end of the week and not come home till Monday morning. That really led to the development of my storyline for my senior collection. I just found it so bizarre to live in that world. The aesthetic of Berlin spoke to me because it’s so minimal. We missed our flight because we left the club too late, so I thought maybe we should just stay here? Anything you would change about your experience as a designer so far? I would’ve done more research on where I think fashion is heading or what I could do to improve it. Honestly, I feel a sense of guilt. I’ve spent this whole year working on a collection that isn’t necessarily benefiting anyone. I wish I could’ve approached my collection to do so, but I’m planning on going into textile engineering. I’m going to work for a couple of years then apply to MIT for my MFA.

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DIRECTIONAL SIGNS Photography

AUGUSTO SILVA ALLIEGRO

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PIERCED Photography

JESS FARRAN Interview by

SHANI TSFONI

Lucia Marti is someone to look out for in the future. She is not only sweet and humble with a perfect laugh but also an extremely hard working and talented girl. At only 21 years old she has achieved so much not only in school but with other student collaborations, one of them leading her to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Panama. I had the chance to sit and interview this sweet girl and find out how she ended up where she is.

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Hi Lucia, it is so nice to finally meet you, how are you today? “I am good, good! I am sorry I am late but I am happy to be here!” Don’t worry! I am happy you are here. So, tell me how did you get to SCAD? Since you are from Puerto Rico, correct? “Yah, so I did program at RSID from my junior to senior year of high school that summer and I decided to try out jewelry. But I realized that RSID wasn’t for me, I didn’t love it. So, I decided to go to SCAD because it is the biggest student facility for jewelry. To study jewelry at SCAD is the top school.” So you are finishing up your junior year, how does it feel? Can you believe you are graduating in a couple years from now? “It’s kind of crazy to think to have only two years, I thought I only had one but I decided to take a minor in accessories. So, because I have two years I feel more chill about it, hopefully by senior year I will be in a good state. Because most of my friends are graduating next year I will be able to see what they are going through and learn from them.”

Going back, what made you want to learn and create jewelry? When did you discover your interest and passion for jewelry design? “Well, my mom is very into jewelry. We would always go together to jewelry stores and look around. She passed on her love of jewelry to me, it was something we bonded over. She thought me the way of loving jewelry. By high school I realized that I wanted to make jewelry, I knew I wanted to do something artistic and something I was passionate about. I didn’t realize I could make jewelry for a living until I had the experience at RISD.” And did anyone inspire you? “My mom was the inspiration to begin with but after I was inspired by designers. I really like Paula Mendoza. She is a wellknown designer who is Colombian and Latin like me. What I love is that she makes her jewelry in Colombia with single moms. I think that is very inspiring because I want to bring jobs to Puerto Rico where the economy and government is not good, it’s crazy. My dad is very supportive and wants to help me bring these jobs to Puerto Ricco and make my jewelry there, to help my country. I love Puerto Rico. My father is my inspiration as well, he brings me to understand the business side. I am excited to graduate and see what happens.”

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Do you have any icons you look up to or someone you aspire to be like?

So, now that you are here, do you feel like you have grown as a designer?

“In the future, I would like to work the same way as Paula Mendoza. Like Mendoza, I want my jewelry to be known worldwide but also know that I am making a difference. Sometimes jewelry seems superficial and I am not like that. I would like to make a tiny difference in my country.”

“Definitely, and my friends have helped me a lot. From the beginning back home is very closed minded and then coming here opens your mind. You are more open to everything and the people I made friends with have helped me open my eyes and see the world in a different site. Puerto Rico is a very small country and it’s like a bubble, I am so grateful that I came to states to study because it let me see things in a different light. The more I experienced since moving allowed me to continue to grow as a designer.”

Do you remember your first piece you made? How do you feel about it now? “So, the first piece I made was a bracelet with hammer nails, I called it the “Ines” Bracelet. I made it back home in my very first classes with a jewelry designer named Janet Pozza. We didn’t go to far and I only knew the basic things, nothing technical. There I made my first piece and I was obsessed with it. Later I started to look at RSID to find more opportunities. The original “Ines” bracelet is different than the current one but it led to the development of it. The older designers are something I want to alter because I want to make them more comfortable, comfort is something that I am thinking more about. I want to perfect everything before I sell anything. It’s hard to perfect with my busy school schedule and I want to make people happy.”

How would you describe your current aesthetic? And what led you to your current aesthetic? “Well, wow okay. I would say that I like very simple and minimalistic. I will always go for classics but I want it to still be modern. I want to always be current and classic at the same time. I don’t want to go all out there with my designs and I don’t want to be simple, I want to be balanced. Something you can keep forever and wouldn’t define a certain time. I want my jewelry to be timeless and modern, to be able to wear it forever. Also, all the jewelry that I make, I would wear, if I don’t wear it then who will?”

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What is the inspiration behind these collections?

“The gold was part of a collaboration I made with Juliana Luna (a senior fashion designer graduate at SCAD). A mutual friend of ours got us together and it led me to start working with her. She is Colombian so her style is big, bold, and gold. Her style is very organic as well, I felt like the perfect way was to manipulate the metal and not have much of a design. I wanted it to go well with the clothes. I learned a lot from this collection because my personal style is not organic, it made me venture into something new. It was cool experience to have!” “The silver collection is my baby. I collaborated with Ines Arimany for her senior capstone, she wanted to rebrand me and told me to make whatever I wanted. It was awesome to do my own thing and I was inspired by this competition from the Atlanta Jewelry show and the theme was “interactive spaces”. The way I interpreted is as if it was a museum that you can touch and play with the art. I really had fun! I want the jewelry to be moveable and innovative. For example, the earrings I am wearing now, you can rotate them and wear them two different ways! I wanted the pieces to be fun and be able to play with it. It was nice to create something that represents me and not to make something specific for someone else.”

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Can you tell me about a collection you are working on now? I am actually working on a collaboration with Estefania Alvarez, she’s working on her senior collection. With her I am doing something else. My minor is accessory so I am trying to merge jewelry and accessories together. I am making these clutches that are also a jewelry piece. I have always liked the idea of having your clutch that is also a piece of jewelry. The inspiration of her collection comes from India and spiritual aspect the country has, so I am currently working on it. It is going to be exciting! I have a week to go.” You have had some great success already, can you tell me about your experience with Carmela? “It was my first collaboration and I didn’t expect it because I was a freshman at the time. I met her at a dinner after the Oscar de la Renta exhibit through a mutual friend. She saw my ring that I made at RSID, it goes way back, after she saw it she asked me to make pieces for her senior collection. I never thought anything this big would happen to me because Carmela was invited to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Panama, and I flew out as well. My jewelry was shown and it was my big break, especially being a student. It was crazy! Carmela is my mentor and my sister, I look up to her. She saw something in me that I didn’t know I had. It was unbelievable and I love her, she doesn’t realize how much of an impact she made on me!” Looking into the future, where would you like to see yourself after you graduate? “Oh my god, to be honest I want to work under someone to learn everything in depth, you don’t know it until you are there. I really would love to work for Paula Mendoza in the future. Her aesthetic and values match mine. She doesn’t know it but she is a mentor to me too.” And now looking even further, where do you see yourself in 10 years? Would you ever want to own your own label? “In 10 years? I want to be realistic, I don’t think you can aim too high or too low because they are reachable and make it happen. Oh my god, I will be 31, I hope I have my own studio with a few employees. I want to do my own thing and start my own business. Go to jewelry shows and sell my work. But to be honest I don’t know. Goals are something you put yourself and you have to try to reach them.”

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LANDED Photography

KENDALL EAGER Model

CHANSUPA REINNOLDT

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