Mango Metro – Volume 9, Issue 6 – May 2015

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MAY 2015 • VOLUME 9, ISSUE NO. 6

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Volume 9, Issue No. 6

MAY 2015

Published by

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Black

and White By Dave Stamboulis

Chiang Rai is one of Thailand’s sleepier cities, more noted for being a gateway to the northern mountain scenery, hill tribe trekking, and escapes to Myanmar or Laos. Yet, it has a couple of sights that are amongst the most striking in Thailand: the magnificent Wat Rong Khun temple and its more unknown counterpart, the Black House.

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While a lot of travellers will run the minute you mention the words “temple tourism,” these two gems in Chiang Rai are well worth a visit and are actually somewhat related. Known as the heaven and hell of architecture, Wat Rong Khun, also called the White Temple, and Baan Dam, or the Black House, were actually sculpted by two artists coming from the same school of thought, as the white wat is a project designed by an artist whose teacher built the black one! Thawan Duchanee was one of Thailand’s legendary art masters. He passed away last year at the age of 74 and was considered a pioneer of avant garde Thai art. Duchanee studied under famed artist Silpa Bhirasri (also known as Corrado Feroci), an Italian who came to teach art in Thailand in the 1920s, took Thai citizenship, founded Silpakorn University, and was considered the father of modern Thai art. Duchanee spent a decade in Europe perfecting his craft (even spending three years to paint murals on the ceiling of a German palace) and then returned to Thailand and began doing creative interpretations of traditional Buddhist art, taking influences from Tibetan, Burmese, and Lanna northern art, and creating phantasmagoric scenes of Buddhas, demons, and beasts in a metaphysical cosmology.

The Black House is a series of architectural art projects that Duchanee devoted his life to, and the quiet grounds, some 8 kilometers north of town, are filled with a variety of his temple structures, mostly made of intricately carved dark wood, which are surrounded and filled with bizarre sculptures, statues, and other artwork, with plenty of macabre additions like dead animal skulls and skins being incorporated into the building furnishings. While many of the buildings (which range from space-like domes to triangular shingle houses to one building that even resembles a submarine) cannot be entered, some of the larger temple-like complexes are open, and feature bone carvings, long snake skins, buffalo skulls, and antlers along with other occult-styled furniture


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ute to the message that Kositpipat is trying to send out. Wat Rong Khun was heavily damaged in the earthquake of 2014, and at the time, Kositpipat said he would demolish the entire structure. However, scientists found that there really was not any major structural damage, and this caused Kositpipat to do a full turn and declare that he would spend the rest of his life working on the temple. One of the chedi spires still hangs off the top, looking like it is about to fall off, but other than this, much of the white wat looks as glorious as ever.

that wouldn’t be too out of place in an Addams Family film or Disneyland’s Haunted Mansion/ Mystic Manor. Needless to say, taxidermists will love this place. Duchanee was the mentor, teacher, and idol of Chalermchai Kositpipat, another of Thailand’s top art-ists, and Kositpipat has his greatest opus on the south side of Chiang Rai. Wat Rong Khun is an on-going project meant to symbolize heaven on earth, with its gleaming white color everywhere standing for purity and shining brightness. Kositpipat started his career painting movie ads on billboards and became a controversial figure for a time mixing contemporary images with Buddhist temple art, but today is one of the country’s most revered artists. These days, thousands of visitors flock daily to Wat Rong Khun, which is a visual masterpiece.

Kositpipat has spent over 40 million baht of his own money to refurbish what was a decrepit, in disrepair local wat to what is now a stunning visual portrayal of classic Buddhist doctrine (human desire causes suffering, that is, money, materialism, greed, and passion) spiced up with lots of contemporary musings. The inner ubosot main building, where visitors may not take photos, is filled with bizarre mu-rals featuring terror and nuclear attacks and images of Freddy Kruger and the Terminator.

What is about as amazing as the architecture of these two stunning complexes is the fact that they are both completely and totally free! In a country where foreign visitors are often charged ten times the local price and where beautiful renowned temples are now charging whopping fees (Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace in Bangkok or the temple recreation park of Muang Boran in Samut Prakan being two of the most notorious examples), these two gems, which I find to be possibly the most beautiful and innovative human-made tourist attractions in the country, are completely feeless and most welcoming to the public. While Wat Rong Khun does get thronged with tour groups and can be a real zoo, Baan Dam is far lesser known, mainly popular with Thais, and the grounds are a meditative and reflective spot. Both of them are highly worthy of a pilgrimage, and a great reason to spend an extra day or two next time you’re in Chiang Rai.

To get into this complex, one must cross a bridge of rebirth, under which lie thousands of white hands all reaching out from the underworld and meant to depict human desire.

Wat Rong Khun – www.watrongkhun.org – About 15 kilometers south of Chiang Rai, just off of Highway 1 on Route 1208. Tel. 053-673579. Open daily, 6:30 a.m.-6 p.m.

While the temple resembles a rather surreal religious museum, it actually is far more than just a Gaudi-esque tourist attraction, as thousands of Thais come here to make merit and pay trib-

Baan Dam – thawan-duchanee.com/index-eng. htm – 9 kilometers north of town on Highway 1 and off a small side road on the left side of the highway. Tel. 053-776-333. Open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

Find us at Sukhumvit soi 11 Telephone: 02-651-1098 snappernz@snapper-bangkok.com www.snapper-bangkok.com www.facebook.com/SnapperNZ

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American BBQ – Featuring Barbecue Ribs, Burgers, Buffalo Wings & More

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HEALTH BRIEFS

Training toddlers to eat veggies should begin before the age of two

Walking more lowers heart attack and stroke risk

“My child does not eat vegetables.” This is a cause for concern for parents in many households worldwide. No matter how many tricks parents have up their sleeves, they find it difficult to get their children to say yes to those green leaves. Many have given up on trying, but a recent study by a cooperative effort at universities in England, France and Denmark has found the latest trick for parents to try: have your children eat vegetables as early and as continually as possible.

And the benefits came regardless of the participant’s body weight or level of activity at the start The study had 403 preschool children, aged 4 Reducing your risk of suffering a potentially of the program. months to 3 years, eat 100 to 200 grams of artideadly heart attack or stroke may literally be choke puree 5 to 10 times by serving it as meals steps away. A new study of pre-diabetes patients Vascular study 
confirms 
 or afternoon snacks and observed how much found significant benefits from walking more, in- it’s 
good
 to 
eat 
an 
apple 
a 
day cluding a much lower heart disease risk. A recently completed research study found clear evidence that an apple a day really does help The study involved over 9,000 adults in 40 coun- keep the doctor away. tries who were pre-diabetes and thus at greater risk of suffering heart attacks, strokes or other Researchers from the UK’s University of Oxford cardiovascular events. Results of the study were found that one apple each day was just as effective as taking statins in preventing vascular-relatpublished in a recent issue of The Lancet. ed deaths after age 50 as taking statins. Results of Each participant joined a 12-month program in- the study were published in the British Medical volving exercise, weight loss and dietary changes Journal. to cut fat intake. Researchers recorded the number of steps taken each day at the beginning of Statins are commonly prescribed to help lower each child ate. The result is 40 percent of all chilcholesterol and to prevent the reoccurrence of dren were likely to eat more vegetables each the program and again 12 months later. heart disease and strokes. Previous studies on time, 21 percent consumed most of what was ofThe study showed that a participant’s heart dis- statin usage have shown them to be beneficial fered every time, 16 percent still refused the food ease risk was affected both by their walking in reducing the risk of heart attacks, strokes and even after five attempts and the rest are those amount at the start of the program and by the other potentially deadly vascular conditions, no whose patterns were too variable to specify. extent of change during the 12 months. matter the patient’s individual risk profile. “Younger children are less picky about their Each additional 2,000 steps per day at the start The equally-beneficial results from an apple a day food,” a researcher involved in the study says. correlated to a ten percent reduction in future suggest that even small changes in nutrition and “We found that training children to eat vegetaheart disease risk. And each increase of 2,000 dai- lifestyle habits can deliver powerful health ben- bles should begin before the age of two. You ly steps during the 12-month period lowered the efits and cut the mortality rates of a number of also need to be consistent and the result should risk by an additional eight percent. deadly diseases. show after 5 to 10 times.”

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MAY 2015


Digestive health problems are found in people of all ages and in some circumstances are hard to treat. Accurate advice from experts can help you deal with the problems properly while also reducing anxiety.

Q: My daughter has diarrhea. Is it true that I should feed her yogurt instead of medications?

A:

Normally, doctors recommend that you avoid dairy products when having diarrhea. But fermented milk or yogurt is the exception, despite that it comes from milk. This is because yogurt has live or active cultures called Probiotics such as Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium. When eaten in adequate amounts these organisms appear to help establish a healthier balance of bacteria in the digestive tract. These live cultures help restore the good bacteria in your intestine and reduce stomachache or diarrhea caused by bad bacteria. However, only eating yogurt is not enough. First and foremost you should prevent dehydration and a keep a good balance of liquids and minerals in the body by drinking water or sport drinks. It is not always necessary to take medication. Excretion is the body’s natural way to ex-

Q: I tend to get traveler’s diarrhea and am quite worried about it. Should I preventatively take medicines before traveling?

A:

Anywhere from 20 percent to 50 percent of international travelers may suffer from the nightmare of traveler’s diarrhea at some stage during their travels. The onset of and recovery from traveler’s diarrhea usually occurs within a week of travel. Therefore, doctors generally do not recommend taking anti-diarrhea medicine because it may cause side effects such as flatulence. Normally, the primary source of infection is ingestion of fecal-contaminated food or water. Thus, travelers should pay careful attention to the food and water that they ingest, avoiding half-cooked, unusual and unclean food items.

pel germs and waste. Certain drugs that stop excretion may result in the body storing germs and cause harmful effects including slowing down the recovery process.

Q:

I just turned 50 and my doctor has recommended a colonoscopy for colon cancer screening. Will it hurt? Are there alternatives to colonoscopy that are equally effective?

A: The latest incidence statistics from the National Cancer Insti-

tute claim that among new cancer patients, colon and rectal cancer is second only to breast cancer. The incidence rates increase in people aged 50 and over and is more common among males than females. If you are at risk, you should consult a doctor or genetic counselor to get screened and analyze your risk of developing cancer. Nowadays, there are several methods to screen for colorectal cancer. Apart from a colonoscopy, the cancer can also be detected with a fecal occult blood test, sigmoidoscopy and computerized x-ray. Each method has pros and cons. Specialists choose the most suitable method for each patient. But generally, colonoscopy is a safe and highly precise way to detect colon and rectal cancer. Besides, before starting the test, patients are given a sedative so that they avoid the test’s discomfort.


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MANGO NIGHTS UP TO THE CROWD

Patronage in music has a long history dating back through medieval times to as long ago as Republican Rome. Johann Sebastian Bach, for example, famously wrote the Brandenberg Concertos as a type of offering to Christian Ludwig, Margrave of Brandenburg-Schwedt. The hope was that Ludwig would offer Bach a position as a kept man, a position Bach had hitherto held with Prince Leopold of Anhalt-Köthen. In more recent times, the Scottish singer-songwriter Momus, aka Nick Currie, was hurriedly compelled to generate some quick cash when he was successfully sued for libel by the transgender synthesizer pioneer Walter/Wendy Carlos. Momus invited his fans to send $1,000 each, and he would write a song about them. The result was a 30-track album called Stars Forever, a critical success. Now we live in the crowdfunding era, and in the spirit of Bach and Momus, the Bangkok-based Australian singer-songwriter Gabriel Lynch has penned an album based on a similar principle: He opened up the album to crowdfunding, where in return, the funders influenced the lyrics and direction of the album. According to Lynch, the crowdfunding idea started off as something more mundane, but evolved into something greater. “We crowdfunded the album by doing much what other bands had done in the past. We offered CDs and downloads of the record once it was completed. But we did two things that, I think, made it more interesting. One, we told people that we would literally put their names on the front cover if they contributed anything at

all and two, if they donated more than $30AUD, I would write them a personalized song. They would be able to choose the title and the topic.” “It’s been twelve months and I’ve just about finished all of the 35 songs I was commissioned to write. Some of the suggestions were very heartfelt, some were utterly ridiculous, and some were funny. It was a great opportunity to go outside of my comfort zone, and I was simply amazed by how many people got on board.” Anyhow, the result of the first batch of written songs is the album All of Us, launched this month in Bangkok at Mustache Bar and later in Malaysia where it was recorded. “The title was drawn from the fact that some of the best songs from the crowdfunding component made up the track list. Thematically, the title captures the essence of the record. This time around, I wasn’t writing about simply my own experiences or the things that mattered to me. I was writing, in many cases, for and about other people and their stories. I find the album to be quite dark and brooding in some respects. Yes, people do like a feel-good upbeat song they can dance to, but when given a chance to have something written for them, it seems that a person will choose something more delicate or sensitive. I’m much the same. I write about the dark in my life more than the light. It’s more interesting to me. It was just nice to feel connected to so many other people in the process.” Asked to describe the album, Lynch says “My favorite track on the record is probably the first song, “Scarlet”. The girl who made the suggestion for the song only had two requirements. It

had to be called “Scarlet”, and it had to be epic. I’m not sure how well we delivered on the second point, but I will say I’m immensely proud of the performance of the band on that track. The drums are virtually back to front. The bass line is enchanting. The ending is ginormous. It’s about the grandest journey I could hope to take someone on in a little over three minutes.” But the song that means most to Lynch is the last track, “Little One, Goodnight”: “I wrote it as part of my crowdfunding campaign. A mother of an 8- or 9-year-old girl who suffered with a tumor of the brain and whose future was very uncertain asked me to write her a song. I couldn’t think of what on earth I would write in such a sad situation. In the end, I decided to write a lullaby. Something pretty and calm and happy. We tried it with all kinds of instrumentation, but the song ended up being made up of only many layers of my voice in a peculiar, choral-like arrangement. It was the last song we recorded, and when I heard it for the first time, remembering the reason the song came to be, I was very moved.” As for future plans, Lynch says, “Right now, we’re getting ready to release the album online. The official online launch date is May 8th. We’ve got two launch shows planned at this stage. Before the year is out, I intend to take the record on the road throughout Asia, my homeland of Australia, and hopefully the U.S. But anything is possible. The most exciting thing is waiting to see the reaction to the album itself.”

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PARTY NIGHT

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MANGO NIGHTS

5 YEARS OF WTF! Bar years in Bangkok are a little like dog years - if you get to five you are essentially middle aged and ahead of the pack. And if you make it to five, you are entitled to a certain degree of self-congratulation. That is where WTF Bar and Gallery of Sukhumvit 51 finds itself. And, boy, will it be celebrating its fifth anniversary on May 29 and 30 with a requisite and appropriate degree of style. No one-off boozy night with feature act for them. Instead, WTF’s fifth anniversary sees no less than an art and sculpture exhibition, DJs, bands, a block party with neighbors and a film screening! Says a venue spokesperson, “Since WTF opened there have been two coups, three curfews, the mother of all floods, endless rain and unbearable heat, but Bangkokians have stood by us and together we’ve weathered them all at the neighborhood venue to take refuge, vent frustrations, and enjoy celebrations.” “The theme of the WTF festival (What The Festival) is AKA (Also-Known-As). WTF is a gallery, Also-Known-As a great neighborhood bar, and the aim of this year’s festival is to showcase Bangkok’s fast-growing arts and crafts scene by blurring the borders of celebrated local creative minds.” “We’ve handpicked amateurs, artists, and craftsmen to be Also-Known-As — to embrace their discomfort zone and cross the line into another area that they’re not normally familiar with or known for, in order to create a one-off art and craft product or performance with the extra spice of the unexpected and a sense of play. We want to challenge both creators and viewers to

unleash their imagination in an area of creativity creative output. unknown to the public.” “We’ve invited 13 participants who are not norWTF’s list of talent for their anniversary weekend mally known for making or exhibiting visual art to is incredible, most of all for their diversity. For interpret the theme in any way they want, using example, the former Futon auteur and rock god any media they wish. The exhibition aims to exsinger Gene Kasidit is deputizing as an art exhibi- periment with art created by non-trained artists tor. The restaurateurs behind Soul Food Mahana- within the unfamiliar (to them) environment of a korn and Appia, Candice Lin and Jarrett Wrisley, ‘white-cube’ exhibition space,” says WTF. will serve as funk and hip hop DJs for the event. And the guy who put the dude in the famous in- “We anticipate fresh perspectives and new depardie dance nights, Dudesweet’s Pongsuang Note tures from our novices, taking an un-jaded look at Kunprasop, is presenting a sculpture. Magazine the world around us, particularly in a climate so editors, food critics, bar owners, and others have antagonistic to serious social commentary from also been tapped to provide their artistic and ‘professional’ artists.”

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MAY 2015

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MANGO BITES El Diablo’s Burritos

Like any proper taqueria you would find in Texas, El Diablo’s is a bit out of the way, a bit hard to find, a bit rough around the edges, but worth all of this to enjoy some good, simple, affordable (Tex)Mexican dishes. The food and drink menu is basic, with just a handful of dishes, such as nachos, quesadillas, burritos, and tacos; and the same choices of pork, beef, chicken, or veggie on-hand for each group. There is basically one starter, a basket of fried corn tortilla chips served with a couple of delicious sauces (salsas), served free at the start of the meal, same as you would find at just about any Mexican restaurant in Texas. It’s a tasty, albeit oily, start to your meal. Guacamole (a creamy mashed avocado dip) is a good add-on option to this.

330 Sukhumvit 22 02 259 4140

The menu items are cheap, nothing exceeding 260 baht, including the margaritas, and the portions are satisfying – or

perhaps even over-satisfying in terms of the burritos, which are more than filling for one person. If you go the taco route, those are about 60 baht each, and you can mix and match different meats, including one different choice, a fried “Baja” fish taco. The meat and vegetable ingredients taste fresh, and in particular, the shredded pork taco is really good. The only complaint might be that the tortilla that holds it together often falls apart into a big mess, but again, the “real” experience is that TexMex is often a messy affair, so go with the flow. Alcohol is limited to Singha, Beer Lao, and regular margaritas, but for those not partaking, the thirst-quenching bottomless sweet tea is highly recommended. Now, if they could only serve that with a little something extra! The ambience is authentic as to what you would find in a Texas dive with

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wooden tables and chairs and rustic murals and cow skulls abound and a good mariachi soundtrack in the background. It’s located in a bit-difficult-to-see shophouse near where Sukhumvit 22 and 24 come together almost to Rama 4, about 1.2 kilometers from BTS Phrom Phong, so a bit of a hike from the Skytrain (delivery is quite popular from here). While you might long for a few things on the menu, such as baked dishes like enchiladas, a dessert option, or more drink choices (though do check out Tuesday’s Buy1/Get1 margarita night), the basic notes El Diablo’s does hit fit the bill. The owner is opening a new Mexican place this month called Casa Azul, with a deeper menu, larger and hipper space, and more mass-transit friendly location just steps away from BTS Ari.

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MAY 2015


MANGO BITES

Paste Gaysorn

Award-winning Australian chef Jason Bailey and his Thai partner, Bee Satongun, have been wowing diners for the past several years at their traditional Thai with a modern twist restaurant Paste, which features plenty of authentic and royal palace recipes created with plenty of attention to detail, with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Their latest endeavor is an upscale private dining experience in the luxury Gaysorn Mall, Paste Gaysorn, teaming up with the noble Hongsananda family, who share the royal Sanitwong bloodline, traceable back to Rama V, whose traditional Thai cookbooks are works of art. Aristocratic Thai menus and ancient cookbooks figure prominently in Paste’s refined cuisine. Satongun and Bailey create a beautiful balancing act, merging authentic Thai flavors with innovative fine dining, and the result is quite fabulous. While Paste’s original restaurant in Sukhumvit 49 is extremely popular with foodies and expats, Paste Gaysorn is focused on Thai clientele, and while one might think that Bailey might find it harder to please the local palates, he says this isn’t the case.

Gaysorn Shopping Mall, 3rd Floor, 999 Ploenchit Road 02-656-1003

As he says, the people behind the restaurant, along with those coming here, have time and money, not unlike the aristocrats of old. Bailey says, “Aristocrats by nature are innovators, they love to adapt, due to their travel and worldly experiences, and have been doing so for ages.” Thus, trying modern and cutting edge twists are not necessarily verboten.

While some of Paste’s original recipes are on the Gaysorn menu, there are new items as well. Standouts include entrees like roast duck, nutmeg, curry paste, and sawtooth coriander served on rice crackers or betel leaves topped with smoked mackerel, green mango and chili relish. Mains get even more elegant attention, with sumptuous dishes such as southern Thai-Muslim curry with salt brined four-hour sou vide chicken grilled over coconut husk with freshly squeezed coconut milk and homemade curry paste. Another winner is the steamed sea bass that is served with white turmeric, fennel, and lemongrass foam “lon” sauce. Everything here, from the fresh and colorful ingredients to the aromas, and exquisite presentation set the tone for a superb Thai dining experience. As expected, the venue is pretty dapper. Not too many restaurants get to call Gaysorn home, and the dining room here features plenty of stylish designs, with the centerpiece being a silk nest style sculpture, handcrafted by a team of artists from the north of Thailand. Needless to say, reservations are essential. While some want to call this type of cooking fusion, Paste is anything but. It is both traditional and innovative, authentic and creative, and it is most certainly one of Bangkok’s top Thai fine dining spots.

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MANGO BITES

22 Kitchen & Bar Most of the noted avant garde and cutting edge chefs in Bangkok tend to run their own standalone places. Think Nahm, Gaggan, Bo.lan, Paste, or Issaya Siamese and you get the picture. However, the recently renovated and revamped Dusit Thani in Silom bucks that trend, with a dynamic young culinary whiz running the show at the hotel’s novel new 22 Kitchen & Bar restaurant, which serves up divine Pacific Coastal cuisine. Nikolas Ramirez, a half-Hawaiian half-Mexican gastronome, has brought his amazing culinary skills to the Dusit Thani’s latest epicurean contribution to the Bangkok gourmet dining scene. From the 22nd floor overlooking Lumpini Park, Ramirez whips up succulent Pan Pacific dishes, featuring fresh seafood and flavors from Peru, Japan, Mexico, and Hawaii. Ramirez worked as Chef de Cuisine in the prestigious El Encanto by Orient Express in Santa Barbara, as well as at the California restaurant The Wine Cask, before deciding to bring his talents east. The young and extremely personable chef is quite proud of his heritage, and wanted to mix the flavors of where he grew up; traditional Hawaiian with those of the rest of the Pacific Rim. Ramirez has been given free reign of the kitchen, which is how it should be, according to him. As he says, “A chef should not have to cook someone else’s food.”

22 Kitchen & Bar, Dusit Hotel, 22nd Floor, 946 Rama IV Road 02-200-9000 ext 2345 www.dusit.com/dusitthani/bangkok/ dining-en.html

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This has obviously been a prudent move on the part of the Dusit, as Ramirez personally accompanies all dishes to each table, explaining where they come from, how they should be eaten, and giving ex-cellent insightful background on the cuisine, which may be new for many diners. The menu features lots of fresh seafood, all of it quite divine, but there are some real standouts.

The tapas sharing dishes are all knockouts, headed by fresh oysters served with kimchi puree and Asian pear sauce. There is a scallop carpaccio with spicy aioli and ponzu sauce, a set of Chinese “bao” buns served with confit pork, salsa verde, and avocado, and the best ceviche you’ll find this side of Peru, made with citrus marinade tiger’s milk, marinated calimari, and roasted sticky rice powder, normally used in Thai “larb” salads. Other delights include Japanese ramen burgers, kimchi quesadillas. Mains include langoustine with chimichurri sauce, and a whole deboned sea bass served with Peruvian seafood paella. There is also a slow-cooked duck, served with heart of palm ravioli, grilled pear, dark beer, and watercress salad. While the views of Bangkok at night from the elegant dining room are noteworthy, diners appear to be too wowed by the food to pay much attention, and it is great to have a normally staid fine dining hotel expanding its horizons into nouvelle, creative, and sumptuous epicurean frontiers. For dessert, make sure to leave room for the American-influenced s’mores dessert, made with chocolate mousse, marshmallow, and graham cracker crumbs. The signature drinks are no slouch either, with creative whiskey sours recommended for men, and the Passionate Thunderball, made from gold tequila, passion fruit and chilli, recommended for the senoritas. Ladies nights on Thursdays is a great opportunity to taste some of the tapas and free flow cocktails for the gals, and the restaurant has also been running a Hawaiian Night set menu dinner, with chicken adobe and oyster shots highlighting a colorful feast. You can be sure that 22 Kitchen will be hitting Asia’s top tables in the coming year.



Day-tripping: Ayutthaya imandan

nea S By Voicu Mih

Every year the rains come and go, the riverbanks overflow, the rice paddies get flooded, the rice grows and feeds us all, and life goes on as planned. But then there are the years when the rains won’t stop “on time” and the overflow of rainwater will flood the cities lying along the rivers in the central plains of Thailand and entire cities, villages, local neighborhoods, and century-old building structures will go under water. Destroyed. No one who has been in any way interested in Thailand for the past few years will ever forget the 2011 disastrous floods that lasted for months and destroyed not only crops, but ruined businesses and properties. Among the buildings that felt the grudge of nature were the many temples of Ayutthaya that suffered incredible structural damage. When the waters finally receded, the entire country helped out in a huge cleanup campaign, and even some international foundations and organizations donated money to help renovate some of the damaged temples. In subsequent years, Ayutthaya was flooded again and again with various degrees of damages to its national and world

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heritage sites, and the renovations are still an ongoing process. So, it’s not a bad idea to set aside one day to revisit Ayutthaya and witness yourself the progress made in returning the formal capital of Siam to its former glory. There are thousands of temples and ruins in Ayutthaya, but I recommend starting with the two most central temple complexes of Wat Mahathat and Wat Rajaburana, which were both on the front pages of newspapers when the floods submerged them in water. Tons of Ayutthaya-style tuk-tuks, plus fruit and souvenir vendors are stationed in the parking lot of Wat Mahathat. It is maybe the most famous destination in Ayutthaya due to its iconic Buddha head trapped in the roots of a banyan tree. When the floods reached the city center, the water levels rose to the eye level of the local statue and water marks are still slightly visible on the tree and the surrounding red brick wall. This 14th century temple that was sacked by the invading Burmese army in 1767, bringing thus the fall of Ayutthaya as the capital of Siam, is now a well-kept complex. The only invaders to be seen these days are the

hordes of tourists who come for a half-hour stop by busloads before being ushered off to their next destination. Patience is thus required to get to the front of the line and take a picture of the Buddha head, while, at the same time, dodging all the selfie-sticks that poke out in every direction, requiring even more patience! The rest of the temple grounds are more peaceful and are definitely worth exploring, getting away from the masses. Right next to Wat Mahathat is Wat Rajaburana, a royal temple built in 1424, which has, surprisingly, better survived both the invading armies and also the wrath of Mother Nature. The Royal Vihara, or the Assembly Hall, has all its walls still standing (no ceiling nor roof, though) with a decapitated Lord Buddha image at the back of the building. In their rush, the Burmese army had no time to take all the statues back to Burma but instead, took only the Buddha heads (which were also cut down to see whether the statue was actually made of gold, or just clay, throughout the inside). Although the red brick structures might seem very similar to those of the neighboring temples at Wat Mahathat or any of the


tailed mural paintings. To reach this chamber, you have to first climb halfway up the stupa and then go down a narrow flight of stairs deep inside the Parang. There are two chambers, an upper one and a lower one, both displaying images of the Buddha and of high lords at the court of Ayutthaya. If you’re claustrophobic, then you’d better stop at the first section, as the stairs to the lower level can only handle one person either way. The murals are clearly visible and are very much worth the excitement during the immense heat – together with extreme humidity – that one has to endure on the way down and back up.

other ruins around Ayutthaya, it’s worth dedicating more time to the exploration of Wat Rajaburana because of its mysterious Parang, or main stupa. Actually, the ruin is presently undergoing structural reconditioning with the help of a German foundation who donated money to help strengthen the foundation of the stupa. But why did this stupa receive such special attention and not one of the other hundreds of the other stupas that dot around throughout the city? The answer is simple: inside this Parang, researchers have discovered a secret chamber, a crypt, with highly ornate and de

Thais go in for free at both temples, while foreigners have an entry fee of just 50 baht. It closes at 5 p.m. The temples are very easy to find wherever you are in Ayutthaya. All you have to do is follow the signs. It’s highly recommended that you rent a bicycle from one of the many guesthouses and small hotels that rent them out, and it is enjoyable to cycle around the city. From Bangkok, you can reach Ayutthaya by bus from Mo Chit station, by train from Hua Lampong train station, or by minivan from Victory Monument. If you drive your own car, then Ayutthaya can be reached either by taking the highway towards Don Mueang airport or on the motorway to Suvarnabhumi Airport and Chonburi.

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