Singapore Strait
SG50
INSPIRATION The idea is for the 6 looks to be designed using both his and my techniques. In the design and exploration process, I wanted to follow the three golden rules of his design philosophy.
THEME
CONCEPT
ICONIC GARMENT Column Dress The column dress is one of Giorgio Armani’s key garment types. It exists in almost every collection season after season in a different variety of designs. I’ve seen varieties of it that is pleated, gathered, cut on bias, structured on the bustier and etc. I personally much like the silhouette of the column dress. It appears to look comfortable, easy to wear, sexy without revealing too much and sensual. One of my first experiments was to create a column dress. It’s rather easy to make. Having found an appropriate fabric, I decided to use this iconic garment as 2 of my finale looks.
3D EXPLORATION
Bias Cut For me bias cut is ultimate form of fluidity in garments. It mould to the shape of it’s wearer, making it figure hugging yet comfortable as it moves with the body. Another great benefit about bias cut is that you can eliminate darts, which is what I did with this bias cut skirt. I realize it is because a bias cut garment will reduce in width but increase in length. For this semi straight skirt, I removed the darts by reducing the top width by half of the total width of the darts, leaving allowance for shrinkage. I iron the skirt downwards at the waist to speed up the shrinkage. I can apply the same technique to any vertical darts on garments such as pants.
3D EXPLORATION Simple & Complex Draped Design During the early stage of the design process, I was fascinated by this draped design I came across in Pattern Magic. I thought it portrays well the fluidity of water, kind of like a whirlpool effect. I experimented on both the simple and complex draped design. The simple draped design is made of 2 front panels. Both panels interlock before sewing both seams on either side of the bust line before sewing along the bottom half of the centrefront seam. The interlock creates the twist of the design which cause the surrounding fabric to fold. The complex draped design is similar to the simple draped design with exception of having a twist before both front panels are interlocked. When preparing the pattern, the bottom half of the bust seam is flipped to the other side. As you can see in the image, the twist causes the back of the fabric to show. An interesting design where both the front and back of a fabric is portrayed.
3D EXPLORATION
This design is also found in pattern magic, again this twist reminded me of fluidity. When you twist a fabric it becomes narrower and shorter, and when you release it, it returns to normal. This pattern has been manipulated so that the fabric is twisted round and round like a spiral. Twisting the fabric changes the shape of the neckline and the armhole in a complex way, I shifted the pattern both horizontally and vertically to create a more dramatic effect. I have found that this design requires the hips to hold the spiral of the twist otherwise the fabric will attempt to release the twist. One way to secure the twist is to add a lining where both side seams of the outer shell and lining are sewn together. I experimented on applying this technique to a skirt but the twist was unsuccessful.
LINE UP
Look 1
Spring / Summer 2016
Look 2
Look 3
LINE UP
Look 4
Spring / Summer 2016
Look 5
Look 6
RANGE PLAN
Spring / Summer 2016
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Full Lined Overcoat
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 26501
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Fabrics
54’’ Polyester Jacqard
45’’ Silk Satin
100% Polyester
100% Silk
Light Grey
Grey
3M
3M
Trimmings
PRYM Rockbund Hooks 20mm x2
Front
Back
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Full Lined Overcoat
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 26501
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Seam Finishing
Open seam / Raw edge Notes : - All seam allowances are pressed open and left raw.
Hem Finishing
Blind Stitch Notes : - Width of hem is 4 cm - Stitches are approx. 5mm intervals
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Full Lined Overcoat
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 26501
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
X. Coat FACING Left
X. Coat FACING Right
Notes : - PRYM Rockbud hooks are hand sewn onto the right side of pattern X facing inwards.
Front
Back
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Full Lined Overcoat
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 26501
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Notes :
- 1 cm seam allowance all around - 4 cm wide hem
XII
III. Coat BELT Cut on fold
IX
VIII
XVI
XIII X
Centre Back
Centre Back
I
Centre Back
II. Coat BACK BODICE Cut 2
II
Centre Front
I. Coat FRONT BODICE Cut 2
CF
Category : Womenswear
CB
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
XV
XI
XIV CF
III
Dart
SS
CB
V. Coat BACK SKIRT Cut 2
Dart
IV. Coat FRONT SKIRT Cut 2
VI. Coat TOP SLEEVE Cut 2
XII. Coat BACK LINING Right Cut 1
XIV. Coat SIDE BACK LINING Cut 2 XV. Coat UNDER SLEEVE LINING Cut 2 XVI. Coat TOP SLEEVE LINING Cut 2
Fold Line
XIII. Coat BACK LINING Left Cut 1
Side Seam
Side Seam
Centre Back Vent Opening
XI. Coat SIDE FRONT LINING Cut 2
Side Seam
X. Coat FACING Cut 2
IV
am Side Se
IX. Coat TOP COLLAR Cut on fold
V
Centre Front
VIII. Coat UNDER COLLAR Cut on fold
Centre Front
VII. Coat UNDER SLEEVE Cut 2
VI VII
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Full Lined Overcoat
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 26501
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
NAME : SEASON : DESCRIPTION :
DATE : SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 NECK DROP 2 NECK - WIDTH 3 NECK CIRCUMFERENCE 4 SHOULDER - LENGTH 5 ACROSS SHOULDER 6 LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21502
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 4 - 2015
Fabrics
54’’ Polyester Jacqard
45’’ Heavy Weight Fusing
Light Grey
White
100% Polyester
0.5 M
2M
Trimmings
Front
Back
13” Nylon Conceal Zip
13mm Bias Binding
Light Grey
Off White
x1
100% Acetate 4M
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21502
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 4 - 2015
Seam Finishing
Piping Notes :
Conceal zip until the top of the waistband on the left side of the trousers.
- All seam allowances are pressed open. - Bias binding is pressed in half then sewn on it’s edges, sandwiching the main fabric. - Bias binding is sewn on the edges of both allowances.
Hem Finishing Waistband outside
Waistband inside
1. Sew waistband to trousers outside facing outside.
2. Top Stitch along the gap of the seam
Blind Stitch Notes :
Front
Back
Sink Stitch
- Edge of hem is overlocked - Width of hem is 8 cm - Stitches are approx. 5mm intervals
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21502
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 4 - 2015
Notes :
SS
SS Side Seam
Inseam
IV. Palazzo Pants Back Waistband Cut 2 on fold at CB
Inseam
III. Palazzo Pants Front Waistband Cut 2 on fold at CF
Side Seam
II. Palazzo Pants BACK Cut 2
IV
CB
I. Palazzo Pants FRONT Cut 2
III
CF
II
k Centre Bac
I
nt Centre Fro
- 1 cm seam allowance all around - 4 cm wide hem
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21502
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 4 - 2015
NAME : SEASON : DESCRIPTION :
DATE : SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 6
NECK DROP NECK - WIDTH NECK CIRCUMFERENCE SHOULDER - LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Half Lined Jacket
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 25503
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Fabrics
54’’ Polyester Jacqard
45’’ Silk Satin
Light Grey
Grey
1.5 M
1M
Trimmings
Front
Back
3mm Elastic
13mm Bias Binding
White
Off White
0.25 M
100% Acetate 2M
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Half Lined Jacked
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 25503
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Seam Finishing
Piping Notes : - All seam allowances are pressed to one side. - Bias binding is sewn on the edges of both allowances.
Hem Finishing
Blind Stitch Notes : - Edge of hem is overlocked and folded inwards. - Width of hem is 4 cm - Stitches are approx. 5mm intervals
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Half Lined Jacked
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 25503
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
I. A - Line Jacket FRONT Right
I. A - Line Jacket FRONT Left
5 cm 20 cm
20 cm
Front
Diameter of the loop is 3 cm andthe length of loop is 6 cm
Allowance for the button loop is 1.5 cm
Back
Design Sketch & Details Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Half Lined Jacked
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 25503
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
IV
IX
Centre Back
I
CF
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
VIII
CB
Patterns Sheet
VII
X V II
XI XII
Side Seam
VI
Fold Line
Side Seam
Centre Front
Centre Front
am Side Se
Vent Opening
III
Notes :
- 1 cm seam allowance all around - 4 cm hem I. A - Line Jacket FRONT Cut 2 II. A - Line Jacket SIDE FRONT Cut 2
III. A - Line Jacket SIDE BACK Cut 2
VII. A - Line Jacket UNDER COLLAR Cut on fold
IV. A - Line Jacket BACK Cut 2
VIII. A - Line Jacket TOP COLLAR Cut on fold
V. A - Line Jacket TOP SLEEVE Cut 2
IX. A - Line Jacket FACING Cut 2
VI. A - Line Jacket UNDER SLEEVE Cut 2
X. A - Line Jacket FRONT LINING Cut 2
XI. A - Line Jacket TOP SLEEVE LINING Cut 2 XII. A - Line Jacket UNDER SLEEVE LINING Cut 2
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Half Lined Jacked
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 25503
Production Fabric : 54’’ Polyester Jacqard, Light Grey
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
NAME : MARK HEAH SEASON : FALL / WINTER 2015 DESCRIPTION :
DATE : 12 - 4 - 2014 SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 6
NECK DROP NECK - WIDTH NECK CIRCUMFERENCE SHOULDER - LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Pleated Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21404
Production Fabric : 45’’ Silk Satin, Smoke
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Fabrics
45’’ Silk Satin
48’’ Woven Chevron
Smoke
Fusing
100% Silk
Dark Grey
2M
0.25 M
Trimmings
Front
Back
13” Nylon Conceal Zip
13mm Bias Binding
Smoke
176 Smoke Grey
x1
100% Acetate 4M
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Pleated Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21404
Production Fabric : 45� Silk Satin, Smoke
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Pleat Line
Fold Line
Sewing line for pleat after folding
Centre Front
Pleat Line
4cm
Seam Finishing
Piping
Fold pleat towards centre front
Notes :
Pleated Palazzo Pants FRONT Cut 2
- All seam allowances are pressed open. - Bias binding is sewn on both allowances.
Hem Finishing Trousers outside
Trousers inside 1. Sew facing to trousers. 2. Top stitch on the facing along the gap of the initial sewing line.
3. Pipe the edge of the facing.
Front
Back
Blind Stitch Notes :
- Edge of hem is overlocked - Width of hem is 8 cm
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Pleated Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21404
Production Fabric : 45� Silk Satin, Smoke
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
SS
SS
Pleat Line
Fold Line
Pleat Line
k Centre Bac
II
Fold pleat towards centre front
I. Pleated Palazzo Pants FRONT Cut 2
I
Side Seam
Inseam
IV. Pleated Palazzo Pants Back Waistband Cut 2 on fold at CB
Inseam
III. Pleated Palazzo Pants Front Waistband Cut 2 on fold at CF
Side Seam
II. Pleated Palazzo Pants BACK Cut 2
IV
III
CF
Pleat sewing line
Centre Front
- 1 cm seam allowance all around - 4 cm wide hem
CB
4 cm
Notes :
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specification Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Pleated Palazzo Pants
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 21404
Production Fabric : 45” Silk Satin, Smoke
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
NAME : SEASON : DESCRIPTION :
DATE : SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 6
NECK DROP NECK - WIDTH NECK CIRCUMFERENCE SHOULDER - LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Twist Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 23405
Production Fabric : 54” Dutchness Satin, Metallic
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Fabrics
54” Dutchess Satin Grey 100% Silk 2M
Trimmings
Front
Back
30” Nylon Conceal Zip
13mm Bias Binding
Grey
169 Grey
X1
100% Acetate 3M
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Twist Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 23405
Production Fabric : 54’’ Dutchess Satin, Metallic
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Notes :
- 1 cm seam allowance all around - 4 cm wide hem
Lin e
IV
A
A
Neck Line
Neck Line
Ho le
m Ar
IV. Draped Dress BACK FACING Cut 2
III
le Ho
Centre Back
I
II B ere tH Cu
V. Draped Dress BACK FACING Cut on fold at CB
B A
Cu tH ere
A C
Side Sea m
C
Side Seam
Hem
Side Seam
Centre Front
Centre Front
Ar m
SS
Nec k
II. Draped Dress FRONT LEFT Cut 1
SS
I. Draped Dress FRONT RIGHT Cut 1
III. Draped Dress BACK Cut on fold at CB
CB
V
Hem
D
D
Hem
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Twist Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 23405
Production Fabric : 54’’ Dutchess Satin, Metallic
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Seam Finishing
Piping Notes :
- All seam allowances are pressed open. - Bias binding is sewn on both allowances.
Hem Finishing
Blind Stitch Notes :
- Edge of hem is overlocked then blind stitched - Width of hem is 8 cm
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Twist Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 23405
Production Fabric : 54’’ Dutchess Satin, Metallic
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
1. On pattern I, apply a small piece of interfacing along the back of the red dashed line to prevent fray, then cut along the line. 2. Apply stay tape along the neck line. 3. Sew together the area between A to B with a french seam. 4. Repeat steps 1 & 2 for pattern II.
5. Insert the A till B area of pattern II through the hole you have made in pattern I.
9. Sew the dart on patterns IV then pipe the hem of the lining.
6. Repeat step 3 for pattern II.
10. Sew darts on pattern III. Match side seams & shoulder seams of pattern III to patterns I & II then sew. Press open then pipe.
7. Sew the centre front from C to the hem D with a french seam. 8. Sew patterns IV to both sides of pattern V at the side seams & shoulder seams.
11. Sew arm holes & necklines of dress and lining then sew. 12. Flip lining outside in and top stitch along the back neckline.
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specification Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Twist Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 23405
Production Fabric : 54’’ Dutchess Satin, Metallic
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
NAME : SEASON : DESCRIPTION :
DATE : SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 6
NECK DROP NECK - WIDTH NECK CIRCUMFERENCE SHOULDER - LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54” Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Fabrics
54’’ Two Tone Dutchess Satin 54’’ Two Tone Dutchess Satin Blue Grey (Front Side)
Blue Grey (Back Side)
Polyester Blend
Polyester Blend
5M
5M
Trimmings
Front
Back
35” Nylon Conceal Zip
2mm Cording
Grey
100% Cotton
x1
4M
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Front
Back
Side (Left)
Side (Right)
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Notes :
- 1.5 cm seam allowance for dress - 4 cm wide hem - 2 cm seam allowance for corset Side Seam
I. Water Dress FRONT Cut on fold at CF II. Water Dress BACK Cut on fold at CB I
am
Waist Line
CF
CF
IX X
SS
Hem
Hem
XII CB
XI. Water Dress Corset SIDE BACK Cut 2
Side Seam
Side Se am
XI
VII
CB
X. Water Dress Corset SIDE FRONT Cut 2
VI SS
Side Seam
VIII
IX. Water Dress Corset FRONT 2 Cut 2
XII. Water Dress Corset CENTRE BACK Cut 2
V
Side Seam
VIII. Water Dress Corset FRONT 1 Cut 2
Centre Back
VII. Water Dress Corset Facing BACK Cut on fold at CB
IV
Sid
VI. Water Dress Corset Facing FRONT Cut on fold at CF
e S ea m
Centre Front
V. Water Dress BACK PANEL Cut on fold
III Centre Back
Centre Front
IV. Water Dress FRONT PANEL 2 Cut 1
II
Side S e
III. Water Dress FRONT PANEL 1 Cut 1
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015 Notes: The blue arrows indicate where the cord binding should be sewn.
Side Seam
2.Fold Line 1. Cut here
VI
III SS
eam Side S
V
SS
Centre Back
Waist Line
eam
Sew then gather
IV
Side S
Centre Front
CF
3. Sew then gather
CB
VII
Back Dress outside
Dress inside Facing
3. Pipe the edge of the facing & blind stitch to the corset. Cording Corset
1. Cut bias strips of 2.5 cm wide from the main fabric. 2. Sew the strips together into one continious piece. 4 m long will be sufficient. 3. Press the entire bias strip in half then insert the cording on the fold line. 4. The cording is now sandwiched by the binding. 5. Top stitch along the cording to permanently secure it.
VII
am
Dress
- The cord binding needed is 1 cm wide and 4 m long. - The cording used is 2 mm wide.
e Side S
2. Top stitch on the facing along the gap of the initial sewing line.
Cord Binding
Centre Back
1. Sew dress, lining, corset & facing together.
Notes: - The above illustrate how the end of the panel is finished with the cord binding.
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Edge Finishing
Cording & Baby Lock (Back)
Cording & Baby Lock (Front)
- This finishing is applied only on the previously specified edges of patterns III, IV, V, VI & VII. - The cording is first sewn on the right side of the fabric. - The allowance of both the cording and pattern is then baby locked together. - The baby locked allowances is then pressed to the back of the pattern, allowingthe cording to align on the edge.
Seam Finishing
Hem Finishing
Baby Lock - The seam alllowances are pressed open and baby locked on both edges.
BlindStitch - Width of the hem is 4 cm. - The edge of the hem is first baby locked all around, then rolled and sewn with a blind stitch.
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54” Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Trimmings
45” Power mesh
1” Grossgrain tape
Nude
Cream
1M
2M
Trimmings
Notes: - 2 cm seam allowance all around for all corset patterns.
Boning channel for CF & CB seams
Boning channel for remaining seams
- Zip is on the left side seam. - Boning is incorported on both sides of the left side seam before sewing in the zipper.
Allowances for the CF & CB seams are pressed open. It’s edges are folded inwards then stop stitched.
Allowances for the remaining seams are pressed to one side, in the direction towards the CB. It’s edges are folded inwards then stop stitched.
30” Nylon Open End Zip
5 mm Boning
Beige
Clear
x1
4M
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specification Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Water Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 30 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54” Poly blend Dutchess Satin
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
NAME : SEASON : DESCRIPTION :
DATE : SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 6
NECK DROP NECK - WIDTH NECK CIRCUMFERENCE SHOULDER - LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Column Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27607
Production Fabric : 54” PVC sequin, Gold & Silver
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Fabrics
54’’ PVC Sequin mesh Gold - 4 M
54’’ PVC Sequin mesh Silver - 4 M
54’’ Dutchess Satin Champagne, 100% Silk - 4 M
54’’ Dutchess Satin Ash, 100% Silk - 4 M
Trimmings
Gold - Front & Back
Silver - Front & Back
35” Nylon Conceal Zip Cream x 1
35” Nylon Conceal Zip Grey x 1
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Column Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27607
Production Fabric : 54� PVC sequin, Gold & Silver
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Notes :
- 1.5 cm seam allowance for dress - 4 cm wide hem - 2 cm seam allowance for corset I
Centre Back
III
CF
VI
Side Seam
Side Seam
Side Seam
Side Seam
SS
CB
V. Column Dress BACK LINING Cut on fold at CB
VII. Column Dress Corset FRONT Cut 2
IX. Column Dress Corset SIDE BACK Cut 2 X. Column Dress Corset BACK Cut 2
Hem
Hem
Hem
Hem
IX
Side Seam
VIII Sid e
VIII. Column Dress Corset SIDE FRONT. Cut 2
X
Centre Back
Centre Front
VII
S ea m
VI. Column Dress Corset Facing FRONT. Cut on fold at CF
SS
IV. Column Dress FRONT LINING Cut on fold at CF
V Centre Front
Centre Front
III. Column Dress BUST BAND Cut on fold at CF
IV
CB
II
CF
II. Column Dress BACK Cut on fold at CB
Centre Back
I. Column Dress FRONT Cut on fold at CF
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Column Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27607
Production Fabric : 54� PVC sequin, Gold & Silver
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Dress outside
Dress inside Facing 1. Sew dress, lining, corset & facing together.
Dress
2. Top stitch on the facing along the gap of the initial sewing line.
3. Pipe the edge of the facing & blind stitch to the corset. Lining
Front
Side
Back
Corset
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Column Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27607
Production Fabric : 54� PVC sequin, Gold & Silver
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Seam Finishing (Dress)
Seam Finishing (Lining)
Raw Edge
French Seam
- No finishing is applied to the dress.
- All lining seams except CB seam are finished with a french seam of 1 cm wide on the wrong side of the fabric.
- All seam allowances are pressed open and left raw.
- The wrong side of the lining faces the wrong side of the dress. Therefore, seam allowances of both layers are sandwiched in between.
Hem Finishing (Dress)
Hem Finishing (Lining)
Blind Stitch
Top Stitch
- On the dress, the edge of the slit is first finished with a diagonal seam.
- On the lining, the edge of the slit is first finished with a diagonal seam.
- The hem & slit is then rolled inwards and sewn with a blind stitch.
- The hem & slit is then rolled inwards and sewn with a top stitch on the edge.
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Column Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27607
Production Fabric : 54” PVC sequin, Gold & Silver
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
Trimmings
45” Power mesh
1” Grossgrain tape
Nude
Cream
1M
2M
Trimmings
Notes: - 2 cm seam allowance all around for all corset patterns.
Boning channel for CF seam
Boning channel for remaining seams
- Zip is on the CB. - Boning is incorported on both sides of the CB before sewing in the zipper.
Allowances for the CF & CB seams are pressed open. It’s edges are folded inwards then stop stitched.
Allowances for the remaining seams are pressed to one side, in the direction towards the CB. It’s edges are folded inwards then stop stitched.
30” Nylon Open End Zip
5 mm Boning
Beige
Clear
x1
4M
Design Sketch & Details
Measurements & Specifications Sheet Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Column Dress
Season : Spring / Summer 2016
Date Folder Created : 28 - 3- 2015
Style Number : SS16 - 27607
Production Fabric : 54” PVC sequin, Gold & Silver
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 5 - 2015
NAME : SEASON : DESCRIPTION :
DATE : SIZE :
STYLE :
FABRICATION : ACCESSORIES :
TRIMS :
FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 6
NECK DROP NECK - WIDTH NECK CIRCUMFERENCE SHOULDER - LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER LENGTH * a. HPS b. CF / CB c. SIDE 7 ACROSS WAIST 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 WAIST - LENGTH * a. CF / CB b. HPS 10 ACROSS WAIST a. Relaxed b. Extended 11 HIGH HIPS (10.16cm from waist) 12 LOW HIP (17.78 from waist) 13 BOTTOM EDGE OPENING 14 HPS TO UNDER ARM
LABEL :
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS
FRONT 15 ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE 16 UPPER SLEEVE - WIDTH 17 SLEEVE - LENGTH * a. Overarm b. Underarm c. CB d. HPS 18 ELBOW 19 SLEEVE HEM / CUFF OPENING a. Relaxed b. Extended 20 DEPTH OF SLEEVE HEM 21 CUFF HEIGHT 22 DART a. b. c. d. e. 23 BINDING WIDTH / HEM 24 BUTTON PLACEMENT
BACK
TOTAL
COMMETNS