Designer: Charles-Frederick Worth Label: C. Worth Function: Dinner dress Year: 1892 Material: Off-white silk satin with woven chrysanthemum pattern; large velvet “gigot sleeves”; lace decoration on cuffs and collar. As the 1880s drew to a close, the bustle reduced in size. The lines of skirts were transitioning toward forming a clearer shape. In contrast to this, around 1890 the sleeves began swelling to such sizes that one may say it was the return of “gigot” sleeves. These large sleeves were called “elephant sleeves,” and they reached their maximum size around 1895. The chrysanthemum motif used in this ensemble substantiates the Japonism style of that period. In the middle of the 19th century, chrysanthemums brought from Japan to Europe were popular in the background of Japonism movement, and European countries created “Chrysanthemum Associations.” In 1887, Pierre Loti (1850–1923) published his “Madame Chrysanthème”, and the image of the chrysanthemum as a symbol of Japan was established.
Selected Garment
Look 1 Historical Garment Replica
For this project we were required to use upholtery fabric for the majority of our garments sponsored by Harvey Norman, a home decor & appliances franchise store in Singapore. The aim is to select a historical garment from a particular era and replicate it identically after researching and analyzing it’s construction techniques.
Historical Garment Replica
Look 2 Contemporary Interpretation Garment Upon completion of the historical garment, the next task is to apply the techniques used for look 1 into a second look. The 2nd look is a contemporary interpretation of the 1st look. I chose to focus on the technique of creating the gigot sleeve, a popular design feature in the late Victorian era but interpreting it in a modern way. My aim was to maintain a similar aesthetic of the voluminious sleeve but in an entirely different design.
Contemporary Interpretation Garment
Toile development of the historical garment.
Development Page
Development of undergarment (petticoat & cage) as foundation for the historical garment.
Development Page
Toile development of the contemporary interpretation garment.
Development Page
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : CFW Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10- 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Front
Back
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : CFW Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10- 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Front
Back
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : CFW Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10- 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Centre Back
IX
CF
II
VIII
VII
Fold Line
CB
I
CB
V VI XI
CB
I. CFW Dress Front Bodice, Cut on fold II. CFW Dress Side Front, Cut 2
CB
XIII
CF
- 1 cm seam allowance all around - 4 cm hem
Centre Front / Fold Line
X
Notes :
XII
III
Centre Front
Fold Line
IV
XIV
III. CFW Dress Top Skirt, Cut 2 on fold
VII. CFW Dress Collar, Cut on fold
XI. CFW Dress Back Skirt Panel, Cut 2
IV. CFW Dress Under Skirt, Cut 4
VIII. CFW Dress Under Sleeve, Cut 2
XII. CFW Dress Side Back Hem Panel, Cut 2
V. CFW Dress Centre Back Panel, Cut 2
IX. CFW Dress Middle Sleeve, Cut 2
VI. CFW Dress Side Back Panel, Cut 2
X. CFW Dress Top Sleeve, Cut 2
XIII. CFW Dress Front Under Skirt Hem Panel, Cut on fold XIV. CFW Dress Back Hem Panel, Cut 2
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : CFW Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10 - 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Seam Finishings
Boning Channel
Bias Binding
- There are 4 boning channels of 1.2 cm each on the front of the bodice.
- All other seams are finished with bias binding.
- Bones are 1 cm wide.
- Bias binding is sewn on both allowances of each seam, then press in the direction towards the centre back.
- All 4 channels are pressed towards the centre front.
Hem Finishing (Dress)
Hem Finishing (Sleeve)
Roll & Top Stitch
Blind Stitch
- This is applicable to only the hem inner panels.
- This is only application for the sleeve hem which is 4 cm wide.
- The bottom edge of hem panel and are sewn to the hem of the finished dress, then pressed under the dress.
- The hem pressed inwards and blind stitched.
- The top edge of the hem panel pressed inwards at 1 cm and top stitched on the edge.
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Cage
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10 - 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 45” Cotton Canvas, Beige
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Fabrics
45” Cotton Canvas Beige 100% Cotton 1M
Trimmings
Front
Back
1.5” Twill Tape
1.5” Rigilene
Beige
100% Nylon
100% Cotton
16 M
18 M
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Petticoat
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10 - 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 83” Bridal Tulle, Mushroom
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Fabrics
83” Bridal Tulle
45” Silk Satin
Mushroom
Taupe
100% Nylon
100% Silk
10 M
0.5 M
Trimmings
Front
Back
2” Elastic Waistband
13mm Bias Binding
White
Mushroom
1M
100% Acetate 20 M
Design Sketch & Details Design Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Interpretation Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10 - 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54” Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Fabrics
(Upholstery Fabric)
Silk Organza
54” Mannering, Ivory
Cream
2M
100% Silk 5M
Trimmings
Front
Back
22” Nylon Conceal Zip
13mm Bias Binding
Beige
Ivory
X1
100% Acetate 15 M
Design Sketch & Details Construction Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Interpretation Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10 - 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Seam Finishing
Bias Binding The allowances on the neck line and key hole on the centre back are finished with bias binding of 1.2 cm wide made from the same silk organza.
French Seam All other allowances are finished with a french seam. Horizontal french seams on the bodice and stripe panels are then pressed behind the opaque fabric and top stitched to avoid being seen.
Hem Finishing
Roll & Top Stitch
Front
Back
The width of the rolled hem is 0.5 cm. It is double rolled. This applies for both dress and frill hems. On the slit, sew a diagonal seam for both corners.
Design Sketch & Details Patterns Sheet
Pattern Drafter : Mark Heah
Category : Womenswear
Folder Approval Status : Neither Approved nor Rejected
Style Name : Interpretation Dress
Season : Fall / Winter 2015
Date Folder Created : 28 - 10 - 2014
Style Number : FW15 - 27506
Production Fabric : 54� Mannering, Ivory
Date Folder Modified : 11 - 12 - 2014
Notes :
- 1.5 cm seam allowance all around - 2 cm wide hem
IV. Interpretation Dress Front Bodice 3, Cut 2
IV
VI
CB
VII
VIII
IX
CB
CF / Fold Line
X
CF / Fold Line
XI
X. Interpretation Dress Skirt Panel 2, Cut 2 on fold
XII. Interpretation Dress Sleeve, Cut 2 on fold
II
CB
CF / Fold Line
VII. Interpretation Dress Back Bodice 2, Cut 2
XI. Interpretation Dress Skirt Panel 3, Cut 2 on fold
III
Centre Front / Fold Line
VI. Interpretation Dress Back Bodice 1, Cut on fold
IX. Interpretation Dress Skirt Panel 1, Cut on fold
CB
XII
V. Interpretation Dress Back Yoke, Cut 2
VIII. Interpretation Dress Back Bodice 3, Cut 2
V
Centre Back
III. Interpretation Dress Front Bodice 2, Cut 2
I Centre Front / Fold Line
II. Interpretation Dress Front Bodice 1, Cut on fold
CF / Fold Line
I. Interpretation Dress Front Yoke, Cut on fold