20/20 Europe - January by Rivista Sfogliabile

20/20 europe - January 2015

Brand profile Sama Eyewear In detail Markus T Interview Rolf Spectacles Lenses & Technology Hoya

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10 YEARS TITANIUM FOR MEN

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SUMMARY

What’s on in Europe

ÜBER ALLES

Brand Profile SAMA EYEWEAR

In Detail MARKUS T Shows & Fairs

Interview ROLF SPECTACLES

Editorial Wallpapers

Trends Paradeyes

News

European Lenses & Technology

EDITOR’S COMMENT

GERMANY: THE PERFECT BALANCE OF OPPOSITES Stefano Ampollini •

Editor in chief

•

s.ampollini@fgeditore.it

• In the last years German eyewear market has made great strides and OPTI has become a “must” appointment for all the opticians to date with trends and new technologies. The main factor to explain its steady growth is the German skill to combine the deep attention to technical and technological aspects with a bright creativity, a typical heritage of Mediterranean companies that few buyers in the past glimpsed in German producers. Black and multi-coloured, thin and strong, squared and round, tradition and innovation: the variety of proposal is the great strength of this market, but always without losing sight of craftsmanship (as quality) and ease of sale (as economical sustainability). Practical and creative, the balance of opposites is likely to be the winning formula to face and overcome the crisis. Germany has showed it’s possible and a fair like OPTI is the best showcase to view the market horizons.

what ’s on in europe

The Special Edition Felder Felder for Silhouette has been presented at the finale of the S/S 2015 show in the BFC Courtyard Space in London twice. Silhouette also called two Italian brand’s ambassadors to interpret its message

SILHOUETTE

For fashion-conscious sunglasses lovers After its career on the catwalk, the Special Edition, available in four remarkable colours – dark green classic brown, hip pink and bright (neon) orange – is assured of a career in selected shops internationally starting from January. There they will take fashion-conscious sunglasses lovers by storm as must-haves to become the It shades of 2015. Feedback on the extravagant, rimless sunglasses in the “Cat-Eye-AudreyHepburn-John-Lennon-Style” look was fantastic. “Crush of the Day”, “It shades” and other such descriptions were bestowed on the sunglasses, made in Austria, following their presentation. In Italy, on a day dedicated to the themes of fashion and style, Silhouette created a dialogue between them to understand if the style is actually an evolution of research and experimentation in fashion. For the occasion Silhouette called Lucia del Pasqua and Anja Tufina, brand’s ambassadors, to create different outfits, interpreting contemporary fashion and uniqueness of lifestyle with The Special Edition Felder Felder for Silhouette. Silhouette is the brand of the world’s lightest glasses, they are made in Austria and are exported to 100 countries worldwide. 8

what ’s on in europe

OKIA

DP69

A precious look

Upside down glasses

“Flawless Deco” is the name of the latest HDA concept developed by OKIA, the Hong-Kong based eyewear company worldwide renowned for its High Definition Acetate Technology (HDA). As a result of the ongoing improvement of this patent, the new OKIA collection combines state-ofthe-art design and technology in order to propose eyecatching frames for people who love standing out from the crowd. Surprising HDA patterns, three-dimensional effects, glitter materials: everything in this line is an expression of innovation and glamour. As its name suggests, the collection features extremely flawless decorations that, enriched by the sparkle of glitter, give each style a precious look. A wide range of trendy colours – black, purple, silver and gold complete these refined frames.

dp69 is a collection of optical and sun model with a sparkling and smart style, combining the quality of materials with a plucky and appealing look. dp69 displays all the success of a fully made in Italy design. The very best Italian craftsmanship skillfully shapes the most innovative raw materials, enhancing their strong points in the coolest and most fashion shapes of the moment. Extravagant color combinations, contrasts and nuances inclined to transgress and flaunt its originality, without ever relinquishing good taste and elegance. The dp69 glasses interpret a colored and lively mood, versatile and “easy to wear”. Careful and appealing packaging completes the presentation of this eyewear. 100 original faces have been chosen as spokespersons for the “upside down” photo shoot that will launch the dp69 brand.

WOOW

For people with a sense of humor

SUZY GLAM

WOOW, the brand with “mini-messages” strikes again and launches its first sunglasses, a very fashionable, graphic collection in a range of amazing colors. The WOOW styles speak to all women and men with a sense of humor: their little message inserted in the end tip of the frames will make the wearer smile anytime. SUPER is the code for the messages carried by the sunglasses. Messages that end with a surprise: SUPER DUPER, SUPER CHIC and SUPER LAZY. Two concepts for women, one for men. Every family has a unique style. SUPER DUPER is the most playful with its strong and regular lines. The fine lines of SUPER CHIC pay tribute to the lanky fashionistas drawn by the artist Kiraz, while SUPER LAZY, with its metal temples and retro rightness, fills with happiness all men whose only ambition is to engage in a very smart rest.

A new limited edition for Opti Suzy Glam strikes a new path when it comes to designing eyewear. The three-dimensional approach to the design, combined with the superb fit, produces styles that are perfectly balanced as object and accessory. For Opti, Suzy Glam will have 2 new models and one Limited Edition: shades with sharp edges and dark lenses that represents exactly how she feels when she ‘Goes Bananas’. It comes in matte Pearl with flat grey lenses. Suzy Glam produces her most outstanding designs only in a limited series of 50 pieces worldwide. Made in Italy and handfinished in Amsterdam. 9

what ’s on in europe

HOET COUTURE Frames turn into jewels

The 3D laser-printed HC collection already includes five models. These eyeglasses, which are available in various lens and bridge sizes, are equipped with adjustable temples and moveable nose pads for the best possible comfort. Hoet’s urge towards further innovation and comfort goes way beyond this... 3D handmade: a mounted ruby or brilliant, or a unique embroidery in gold or platinum thread, makes every Hoet Couture frame even more refined. The combination of hightech and the artisanship of the jeweler turns the frame itself into a jewel. The Hoet Couture eyeglasses fit in well with the ‘classical’ Hoet collection. They too, are modern and beautiful. Quality and comfort as always are the basic precepts. The eyeglasses are rust-free and anti-allergic, light, yet durable and well-fitting.

AREA98

A license partnership for Robert Rüdger brand Area98 announces the signature of a twenty-year agreement with Austrian designer Rudi Himmelfreundpointner for the eyewear license of Robert Rüdger brand. The Robert Rüdger collection was founded in 1989 by the three Austrian designers Robert Hüttmann, Rudi Himmelfreundpointner and Gerhard Lahner. Starting from 2004, Robert Rüdger was exclusively entrusted to Rudi Himmelfreundpointner. Area98, in collaboration with the designer, will be in charge of design, production and worldwide distribution of the Austrian eyewear brand. At first, the collection, for men only, will comprise 15 ophthalmic frames – one of these available in a limited edition of 300 pieces also with sun lenses. The new Robert Rüdger collection is launched in preview on the German market during Opti Munich. For Germany and Switzerland, Wolfgang Segel will assume the role of Sales Manager for Robert Rüdger and Coco Song, the two Area98 luxury brands. The Robert Rüdger eyewear collection is available in Germany from January 2015. At a later stage, it will be distributed worldwide starting from March 2015, after the presentation at Mido.

MODO

Paper Thin Titanium, 6.8 grams of comfort MODO’s Paper Thin Titanium collection is so light that it’s practically unnoticeable to the wearer. The Paper Thin frames combine lightness, high flexibility, and eye-catching colors with super-thin grilamid polymer rings. At 6.8 grams and measuring only 0.6 mm in thickness, the beta-titanium frames offer the wearer the highest level of comfort. By pairing ultraelastic polyamide TR 90 inserts with titanium, MODO is able to offer vibrant colors that are the ultimate in thinness and proportions. Customers can choose from 18 styles with 4-6 eye-catching colors, including fuchsia and turquoise. In the collection are now present 3 semi-rimless styles and MODO introduced also 7 sunglasses. 10

7, 8, 9 February 2015 Excel London

whAt ’s on in euroPe

OGI EYEWEAR Color & Charm

Ogi Eyewear introduces a fun and flattering combination frame in captivating colors. Bursts of watercolor inspired streaks harmonize with coordinating colored metal temples in the 9209 by Ogi Eyewear. Th is feminine combination frame features lively blends of color in the translucent tinted acetate front and tips. From the smooth swooping brow to the carved stainless steel temples, this charismatic style gives a cheerful impression.

CONSERVATOIRE INTERNATIONAL DE LUNETTES

ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR

Timeless shapes and contemporaneity

AWE is a complicated feeling that can be good or bad, standing for reverence, wonder, joy or fear and shock. It is able to make you feel overcome with great emotional power, giving you a whole new perspective. That is the approach ANDY WOLF EYEWEAR is starting this season with, to remind everyone to take in the wonders of our lives. To capture this feeling of awe, they’ve included several stories of personal awe in their lookbook. So many different characters choose ANDY WOLF to become a part of their lives and experiences. Since its founding in 2006, ANDY WOLF has always been about handcrafted frames made in Austria. In a world of mass production and fast-paced trends it sees this as a way to make a statement that opticians and people who wear these glasses appreciate. The attention to detail in every single frame, along with the human touch, results in very personal and distinct glasses.

The Conservatoire International de Lunettes project began in Milan when a group of artists, designers, philosophers and entrepreneurs, who were all passionate about glasses, came together to create an “international spectacles conservatoire”. The idea was to reinterpret spectacles drawing on contemporary archetypes that are part of the collective imagination. Tradition, contemporaneity, craftsmanship and innovation are skillfully combined to give life to a product which wants to “rewrite” a catalogue of rediscovered, lost glasses with memories of beautiful, often forgotten shapes. Conservatoire International de Lunettes’s aim is to build a repertoire of iconic shapes (from 1930s to the 1980s) by looking into the archives of history and taking inspiration from this excellence. Glasses of the Conservatoire International de Lunettes are entirely handcrafted in Italy, lenses are six anti-reflective and scratchresistant cover layers made, impact resistant with 100% UV protection, providing a clear and clean vision.

Emotional power

Paper-Thin Titanium

6.8 grams flexible colorful

WWW.MODO.COM / T +39 02 4399 8986 / E EUROPE@MODO.COM

BrAnD ProfiLe

SAMA EYEWEAR by Isabel Pereira

HUMANITY IS THE CORE OF OUR BUSINESS It’s not common to see a woman as president of an eyewear company, but Sheila Vance doesn’t fit the standards. As a designer and with almost thirty years of experience in the eyewear industry, she has founded Sama Eyewear, has created Sam Vance Foundation and has already conquered some awards always driven by love

heila Vance is the mentor of Sama Eyewear, a West Hollywood corporation that defines itself as “the world's finest and most exclusive luxury fashion eyewear company”. The concept may seem overkill, but the result meets expectations. “Sama is just under 20 years, but I have been in the market since 1986 and that makes me the most established designer and manufacturer of eyewear in luxury category. People and specially my dear clients trust me with delivering a product that has quality, integrity and level of design with Sama. After all this we have history, a track record and memories together. We are now family. Sama is home to my clients - they don't have to be worried or take a risk. It's about being comfortable and having trust”, says Sheila Vance with the utmost confidence. Born in mid 90s, Sama Eyewear positions itself in the eyewear market worldwide with no competition, driven by “truly fashion, forward designs and the use of technology” without forgetting those who work at Sama, as Sheila Vance explains. “I truly believe Sama really has no direct competition per say - not today or ever because I don't worry who does what

Sheila Vance, founder and president of Sama Eyewear

BrAnD ProfiLe

designs and what the fad is. I create styles with innovations, technology and design elements that are sometimes so advanced they do not catch on to the industry for seasons. It is the combinations of my collection and people that are both of the highest talent and quality. This combination make it a magical mix. The 2013/2014 releases, for instance, were over the top in creativity and craftsmanship”.

Alessandra Gold

HELPING OTHERS AS A DIFFERENTIATION FACTOR Sama’s business culture is also guided by one totally different from the strictly commercial. Helping others seems to be the company biggest advantage and the differentiation factor. “If by now we haven't learned that it's all about love then this chaos may never disappear. I don't believe in a life of ‘stepping up the ladder’ alone; we all go up together or I stay around until it does. The anger and jealousy amongst people needs to change to love and care. The future of our youth is being jeopardized so I for one am not just watching it but I want there to be a solution. Our motto is that you can look good, do good and feel good and it does give us an advantage over other companies”, clarifies Sheila. Following the same line of thought, Sama Eyewear is strictly linked to Sam Vance Foundation, whose main goal remains the same since the beginning in 1997. “I lost my only son but I have not forgotten how to be a mother. I believe they are all our children and we need to fight for their future. Sama is always the reason for Sam Vance Foundation”, recalls Sheila justifying

Hiro Sun Black

why Sama Eyewear donates a portion of its annual net profits to the Sam Vance Foundation, whose anti-drug effort joins other numerous humanitarian institutions, and why Sama Eyewear main cause for 2015 remains the same. “I lose sleep over the fact that kids trafficking is becoming worse than ever. I am desperate to be able to make an aggressive approach against this evil act with the right partners”, reveals Sheila Vance. And when she does it that will be one of the most striking moments of the company history along with the "Crusaders of the Last Decade" award received by Sama Eyewear and Sheila Vance as well as “Woman of the Year”.

I’D LIKE TO ANNOUNCE FOR THE FIRST TIME THAT AN IMPORTANT PART OF MY COLLECTION WILL BE NOW MADE IN THE USA. YOU WILL SEE A NEW COLLECTION SOON UNDER ‘SAMA LA’ 15

BrAnD ProfiLe

COMMITMENT FOR THE FUTURE Over the years, Sama Eyewear has deal with some challenges starting from having a woman as president, as Sheila Vance recalls. “I still believe that the challenges of being a woman in the position are unfortunately still relevant even in today's world. I did have some challenges being taken as seriously as a business leader in an industry predominantly run by men, but our product stood out and was noticed. Once the frames we designed took focus, things has changed”. Her passion for design lead her to specialized knowledge that stood out in this very competitive market and made Sama’s way to success. For the future don’t expect nothing less than commitment. “I was always driven to design - from arts, fashion and architecture - and early in my retail career I

OUR MOTTO IS THAT YOU CAN LOOK GOOD, DO GOOD AND FEEL GOOD AND IT DOES GIVE US AN ADVANTAGE OVER OTHER COMPANIES FASHION AND LUXURY FROM JAPAN AND USA As an exclusive fashion and luxury brand, the mark of Sama Eyewear success and creativity is directly linked to Japanese and from now on to North American technology, unveils Sheila Vance. “Because of materials I have introduced and the technology, I believe I've created a large expansion of design possibilities now available. Multi layered zyl, laser cut outs, metal and zyl combinations as well as wood, 24K gold lenses are all exclusive statements we have made and continue to make. This season our Monterey, Miranda and Hiro are really exceptional frames. Technology is still the most advanced in Japan however I’d like to announce for the first time that an important part of my collection will be now made in the USA. You will see a new collection soon under ‘Sama LA’".

Miranda Turquoise

THIS SAMA IS NOT FOR TRENDERS With two sunglasses on the “top 15 of the most expensive eyewear in the world in 2014” on second and third places, Sama has a special kind of audience target: “truly stylish people that don't usually want to follow a trend” as Sheila Vance defines it. It goes from royal families to high profi le socials that request customized couture edition at a price that can go as high as 100.000 dollars. “It's true that Sama Eyewear designs and styles are not for everyone. They are individuals that like to create a trend or wear something they have discovered as their own. For them the craftsmanship, materials, details and technology - than Sama is their favorite place to shop”, sums up Sheila Vance.

Monterey Pink Gold

realized that there was a real deficit in truly fashion designs and use of technology so I began to study the new design processes. I have found along the way some amazing male mentors, friends and associates and I am hoping to work with more top level industry leaders globally as I expand into the market. It is not always easy, but it is the challenges in life that have always made me more committed. I may redirect but I never give up”, attests the president of Sama Eyewear. 16

ULTRA POLARIZED THE ULTIMATE VISION & PROTECTION

ÜBER ALLES Photo by H2O

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

NEOSTYLE OWP DIETER FUNK Munic Eyewear Lunor i-spax

The â&#x20AC;&#x153;made in Germanyâ&#x20AC;? label has always been a guarantee of quality, reliability and durability. Over the years, other creative abilities have also been sparked that have given life to a series of brands that are truly cutting-edge

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by Alessandra Albarello

Traditional quality and reliability meet the boldness and creativity of brands that have already achieved cult status

hen talk turns to German companies, a special evening from the early nineties immediately comes to mind – when Cazal presented its eyewear to journalists and clients, with a futuristic atmosphere and a location worthy of Star Wars. Its glasses were also futuristic, so much so that they are still much sought-after by vintage lovers on the Internet, with truly stellar prices to match. At that time it was Cari Zalloni, the renowned designer and brand creator of Greek origin who did the honours, as he himself acted as brand ambassador for his creations, which he wore almost constantly. He is no longer at the helm, but he has left behind the myth of this brand that has been a permanent fixture on the international market since the 1970s thanks to its originality, dispelling the stereotypical view of German-crafted glasses, which, while certainly solid and extremely reliable in terms of quality (an unfailing bastion of German design), aesthetically at times left a little to be desired. It is no coincidence that Cazal still

makes the same designs today that made history both for the company and for contemporary eyewear as a whole, like model 644, launched for the first time in 1991. The “made in Germany” label, therefore, has always been a guarantee of quality, reliability and durability. Over the years, other creative abilities have also been sparked that have given life to a series of brands that are truly cutting-edge, always building, however, upon this solid, credible base.

DESIGN AND GLAMOUR One of the first ever designers to make German design fashionable was undoubtedly Wolfgang Proksch, whose current brand is ByWP (WP being the initials of his name), which is extremely popular with fashionistas the world over. ByWP glasses, with their screw-free hinge system, are created from wafer-thin stainless steel and acetate. They draw inspiration from iconic vintage shapes and predominately

focus

Fluo color, acetate frame and vintage shape for this ByWP pop model

ONE OF THE FIRST EVER DESIGNERS TO MAKE GERMAN DESIGN FASHIONABLE WAS UNDOUBTEDLY WOLFGANG PROKSCH, WHOSE CURRENT BRAND IS BYWP. BYWP GLASSES DRAW INSPIRATION FROM ICONIC VINTAGE SHAPES

worn when doing sport or simply during one’s free time. The brand’s enterprising ability has led it to embark on different partnerships in the world of fashion, such as its collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela on an eyewear collection that completely reflects the clothing and accessory line’s philosophy. Some firm's own shops and a recent move to a larger and more prestigious base in the Kreuzberg area of Berlin has been the cherry on the cake for this brand’s successful image. Fashionable style and design have always been key factors for Lunettes Kollection also. This brand makes glasses with heaps of personality that incorporate cultured references to the past, with an added touch of craftsmanship, which is now considered to be an important and essential intrinsic value. Substantial volumes and strong, bold shapes, almost an exaggerated play on iconic designs from the past, now form part of the collective imagination. It is no accident that the Berlin-based brand often works with emerging designers like Louise Gray, James Long, ODEEH, Christopher Shannon and Michael Van Der Ham.

Aeroplane and Cloud N° 9 sunglasses by Anderne are inspired to vintage pilot shapes

feature semi-rimless and combination styles. And then, of course, we have Ralph Anderl who, in the mid-90s, founded ic!berlin. Using his expertise in ground-breaking technology he designed an innovative play of proportions between the frame front and the temples, almost completely eliminating the screws and hinges. This is a feature that, combined with the lightweight quality of the glasses, has become the unmistakable and distinguishing style of the company. For the S/S 2015 season it is taking inspiration from nature, with special material effects. Mykita is another cult brand that, in around ten years, has been able to establish itself on the market thanks to its brave choices and a focus on research that has never abated, offering a holistic, 360° view of the eyewear world. Indeed, it has been daring in its choices of shapes and materials, even creating new materials, like the wonderful Mylon – lightweight, versatile and high performing, and so perfect for hybrid glasses that can be

An exclusive wood optical frame by Hoffmann Natural Eyewear 21

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MYKITA IS ANOTHER CULT BRAND THAT, IN AROUND TEN YEARS, HAS BEEN ABLE TO ESTABLISH ITSELF ON THE MARKET THANKS TO ITS BRAVE CHOICES AND A FOCUS ON RESEARCH THAT HAS NEVER ABATED, OFFERING A 360° VIEW OF THE EYEWEAR WORLD

Acetate Eldrige & Sullivan sunglasses from the Decades Sun Collection by Mykita. Panto frames and color gradient for a summery look

Acetate and metal Cazal 657 style features a clear and strong aesthetic, that has always been Cazal's trademark

A DIALOGUE BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT Revisiting the past, yet with a contemporary twist (but no nostalgia), using new thicknesses and materials - this is one of the most important trends for the S/S 2015 season. Anderne is one brand focusing on this trend. Only launched in 2013, the young brand is already establishing itself on the market with its bold, determined personality. The brand philosophy is instilled in its name, a contraction of Another Moderne, with clear references to the 1930s artistic and architectural movement. Indeed, Anderne reinterprets the vintage shapes of aviator glasses and snow goggles, and utilises flat lenses – typical of that time – and side shields. Camouflage and military colours dominate, while the materials often have a worn look. On the one hand, there are brands that go above and beyond tradition, establishing themselves on the international scene with a distinctly unique, distinguishable, glamorous and contemporary style. On the other hand, there are historic companies that have chosen instead to take a more classic route and expand their research into other sectors, while always staying within the field of eyewear. Rodenstock is one of these companies, founded way back in 1877, which has always focused heavily on lenses and treatments, offering a finished, highperformance product that satisfies both the needs of the end user and those of opticians. Hoffmann Natural Eyewear embarked on a very different path. Founded in 1978, it, as its name suggests, utilises exclusively natural materials, such as horn, wood and slate. Hoffmann’s philosophy also fits into the contemporary trend that sees the very pressing issue of environmental sustainability at the forefront. Ethics,

The MBS 6038 metal frame from the collection developed by Mercedes-Benz Style and Rodenstock appears in a panto shape in classical colours

therefore, form a vital part of aesthetics. The brand’s exclusive creations, which also enhance the beauty and perfection of the natural materials with unusual colours, are created in Asian water buffalo horn. However, as it is a protected species, the company only uses horn that is naturally shed by the animal when moulting. Every design is therefore unique and must be regularly treated with a special cream supplied by Hoffmann so that all the glasses’ features remain intact. The glasses therefore become genuine objects of desire. Made in Germany, of course! 22

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MARKUS T

by Isabel Pereira

Extremely light glasses with high wearing comfort and innovative technology, 100% handmade in Germany – these were the features of the first collection, Design, which made Markus T popular. The first design awards followed soon and built the starting point for further collections and new technological solutions. But the beginning of this eyewear brand was not planned

have always been interested in design and technology. However, I never really knew which profession allowed me to implement those two interests. Then, I ended up in optics by accident. Even during my apprenticeship I got the feeling that there are way better technical solutions and nicer shapes for glasses. Only after becoming self-employed, I was able to put these ideas into practice. With this decision I also settled with Westphalia as the location”, remembers Markus Temming, the mentor of Markus T eyewear brand. THINGS THAT DON’T CHANGE AND THINGS THAT WILL The story begins 15 years ago and there’s one thing that hasn’t changed: “build glasses based on technological ideas and innovations”. Markus Temming explains: “Th is is our formula for success and this is what makes us unique. I am always looking for the perfect solution for everything – this is who I am. Th is belief is also today’s technical engine. Only recently we developed a process that revolutionizes the coating of titanium and we applied for its patent. It allows us to color coat our frames indoors”. Far from being a “very loud brand”, Markus T is recently more aware of marketing benefits and planning to win over some new

Markus Temming, founder of Markus T

in DetAiL

markets. “We used the possibility to build up and strengthen our marketing constantly. As a result, we can show a pretty good combination of both – also because we are planning to become popular in markets that we have not yet conquered” reveals Temming. Betting on the strength of the product itself from the start, the “100% handmade in Germany” concept seems to have been an advantage. “I wholeheartedly support the concept of ‘100% Handmade in Germany’. The fact that we are one of the last frame manufacturers that have their complete production in Germany and that is run by the owner since its establishment, make the value of our frames comprehensible to the customers. We are transparent and we show real people who are working for us – we buck the trend but it feels right”, says gladly Markus Temming. Besides the product value goal, that German national concept also offers flexibility. “On top of this we also have the possibility to build technologies ourselves without having to fall back on standard solutions. Short paths are a great advantage in this case. Standard solutions often lead you to do things that already exist. The fact that we are always looking for new solutions make our frames so unique”, adds Temming.

The team of Markus T

become a classic and has been running for 15 years. Naturally, the essence of this collection could not be altered, but it was a task that I really enjoyed”. In the future, according to Markus Temming, plans embrace an old distillery. “We are taking another important step towards our vision of ‘100% Handmade in Germany’. The purchase of an old distillery site will provide us with a lot of room for our inventive minds, new technologies and to be creative. To bring new life to this heritage-protected ruin is a big challenge but a very exciting task for me. Gradually, we are going to bring as many production processes as possible under our roof. It is the perfect new home for our manufactory. We want to pursue our manufactory idea in a very special way and to give our customers an understanding of what we are doing”, unveils Temming. Despite the big plans, inside the German house one thing will remain the same: social responsibility. In Markus Temming’s opinion everyone should “have one”. “You should always consider the question ‘What can I personally do?’. Th is way you will fi nd something that you can change, even if it is only little things. In the short term, social engagement is not fi nancially profitable for a company upfront. Indirectly it is. There are many examples at Markus T. We employ mostly women. Therefore, the question on how to combine family and work, has the highest priority. We found creative solutions that have been awarded in the past and the many little success stories in our company show that social responsibility pays off “, he tells.

WHAT’S NEW? Markus T’s success and creativity for 2015 passes through new and old collections that going to be showed in January at opti, in Munich, Germany, as Markus Temming confesses. “There will not only be new shapes and colours for existing Markus T collections, but also the new release of the Design collection that, taking the opportunity of the 15 year anniversary, received a new look. It was a very exciting challenge to completely transform this collection that has

ONLY RECENTLY WE DEVELOPED A PATENT FOR A PROCESS THAT REVOLUTIONIZES THE COATING OF TITANIUM. IT ALLOWS US TO COLOR COAT OUR FRAMES INDOORS

Taking the opportunity of the 15 year anniversary, the Design collection received a new look. Shown here, the model D3

Ăź ber

alles

GERMAN FUNK EYEWEAR

CAZAL

Sashee Schuster, a new way of making frames

Extravagant design for a purist look

With the model "Leota" Sashee Schuster starts a new way of making frames, a new direction in her collection. Cellulose acetate which is made from 80% cotton combined with nature materials like leafs, feathers and many other natural materials. The shapes are very feminine and expressive but due to the fact that Sashee Schuster works with very transparent materials the shapes are anyhow very harmonic. The first collection is presented at opti. Laminated and handcrafted in Kinsau/Bavaria/ Germany

With its extravagant design in the 80s style, the Cazal model 4213 satisfies the wish for greater individuality. Delicately and elegantly the upper line envelops the striking lens shape, whose clarity creates a thoroughly purist look and leaves plenty of scope for styling. Available in red-black/ black-mint/gold-white/white. CAZAL eyewear is stylishly composed and beguile with its very own character, statement frames and sunglasses designed for people for whom individuality and extravagance are part of their life.

funk-eyewear.com

cazal-eyewear.com

IMAGO

MUNIC EYEWEAR

Pure understatement is cool

Fashion changes but style endures

Ultralight 1.0 has not nearly reached its peak of success, and Imago is already launching the second wave. For 2.0 they now use the ULTEM material for the complete frontÂ in harmonious contrast with metal temples made of Japanese stainless steel. The result is a ten-gram high-tech item - resistant against solvents, heat and other environmental influences. The frame is strong, flexible, and nearly unbreakable. All this topped off with a really cool look - pure understatement.

In a time of careless mass production, people seek the touch and feel of handmade objects and dedicated workmanship. For Munic Eyewear, style and quality are important values. Everything they do is perfectly designed, authentic and with a love of detail. Twin Style is an idea that is both simple and ingenious: one design - two frames - two different materials. Identical in design, size and fitting but different in style and expression: identical but different.

imago-eyewear.de

municeyewear.com

showcase

STYLE OWP

LUNOR

The women collection embraces modern art

A popular shape… among individualists

The OWP women’s collection embraces modern art: in January OWP launches five new women’s styles with exclusively made acetate materials. One of the highlights is style 2143: for this acetate frame with a two-tone front, plain colors such as fuchsia or red have been combined with new exclusive acetates used on the lugs and temples. The style is impressively feminine: a subtly-contoured front, the lugs edging out slightly, with rounded temples for unbeatable comfort. The style comes in six different color options.

Lunor Classic Rund makes a confident yet low-key fashion statement. Its eye-catching round design gives the frame a starring role. The circular shape is very popular, especially among individualists. 14 years of his life, Apple’s founder Steve Jobs wore a pair of Lunor Classic Rund glasses which became an iconic part of his overall look. Thanks to the “W”- shaped bridge, the rimless glasses rest on the nose without nose pads. The spectacles come in lightweight stainless steel handcrafted in Germany.

owp.de

lunor.de

MYKITA

NEOSTYLE

Personality enhancing designs

The return of the nerd

The ICAN 119 lady’s frame delivers a modern and feminine look through the fresh mix of colours and materials and the expressive design.The frame made of stainless steel and acetate fits in many faces and is available in 3 colour combinations. The chief designer Konstantin Livas has been designing for NEOSTYLE since the 1970’s and continues to focus on personality enhancing designs without compromising quality or comfort.

The two-tone MASON model from the Decades collection blends two style eras. The classic aviator frame sported by 1960s Hollywood movie stars meets the conservative eyewear fashion of the McCarthy era, a time of political intrigue, stiff suits followed by the Watergate scandal. This unconventional fusion combines daring coolness with a new objectivity. The stainless steel frame is available in Silver/Black, Silver/Basalt, Gold/ Midnight.

neostyle.de

mykita.com

shows

fairs

100% EXTRAVAGANZA 100% OPTICAL WAS INSPIRED BY A NUMBER OF INDUSTRY LEADERS WHO WANTED A FORWARD THINKING, DESIGN-LED OPTICAL EVENT IN LONDON AND NOW THE TRADE SHOW IS THE RESULT OF THE SUPPORT FROM LEADING BRANDS AND PROFESSIONAL ASSOCIATIONS

The request for show booth is already over 70% reserved, and the number of companies and buyers of domestic and foreign markets is growing

DIOPS, IN THE MIDDLE OF THE EYEGLASS INDUSTRY

00% Optical, which will take place at London’s Excel 7-9th February 2015, is promising an exceptional showcase in its Eyewear Halls with over 3,000 frames on display anticipated. This represents the biggest collection of eyewear ever seen in the UK and will eclipse the 2,000 frames on display at the inaugural 2014 100% Optical event, the success of which underlined the need for a major new optical industry event in London. 100% Optical will be showcasing the best of young British design talent: the Eyewear Design Competition was organised in collaboration with the world-renowned Royal College of Art and entailed its students being invited to submit designs for eyewear under two main categories, "Couture" or "Ready to Wear". The trade show has also unveiled an extensive Business Services section and one of the main features will be “Ask an Expert”, a forum for visitors from across the optical industry to meet experts from a variety of fields. Advice and tips will be on offer to help them in their day to day work and business growth.

fter the great success of 13th Daegu international optical show (DIOPS), over 30.000 visitors are expected to attend the 2015 edition (on April 22th-24th) from over 30 countries around the world, including 1.500 buyers. The last show was a largest ever held. During the 2014 3-day exhibition, a total of $8.8 million of export consultation was conducted, with a $30 million contract expected to be signed between participating companies from both Korea and overseas. Korea Optical Industry Support Center (DIOPS secretariat) is preparing for the next show a variety of things to see for the domestic and foreign visitors who are visiting DIOPS, an opportunity to market indigenous eyeglass brands to a global market by showing products with diverse designs, ideas and technologies. 2015 will be a meaningful year that commemorates the 70th year in Korea eyeglass manufacturing (1945-2015), and a variety of associated events are planned during the DIOPS, such as: "Night of eyeglass makers", a global networking party on the eve of DIOPS, "70th year of Korea eyeglass manufacturing" for merit award ceremonies, "DIOPS opening ceremony & VIP luncheon", 15th "Exhibition of Korea eyeglass design contest winners and award ceremony", "2015 Daegu eyeglass festival".

For 2015 the 100% Optical event will be 30% bigger than 2014. A number of new and improved features are going to be introduced 28

shows

fairs

ALL ROADS LEAD TO MUNICH Four halls filled with news, information, and great progress. That is how opti in Munich will be, from 9th to 11th January 2015

he foundation of opti is not the quantity but the quality. The 500 companies of the ophthalmic industry have promised a trade show with completeness, intelligent presentation, professional organisation and product depth. On board are a number of new exhibitors that enrich and refresh the international trade show for optics & design. In addition, the trade visitors can look forward to some new features. In all industry sectors, new names are being represented, for example, the following companies are celebrating their show debut at opti: RVS, Victoria Beckham, Apro spectacles (frames), Falco Linsen, Prolens (contact lenses), Asahi-Lite, Wetzlich, Visio Services International (lenses), Schneider GmbH, AGP, Tecoptique (optical Machines) and the area of optical machines is also growing in 2015. More than 23,000 trade visitors from Germany and abroad are expected. opti has an area of about six football fields (40,000 square metres), the 360 degree view of the entire ophthalmic spectrum, from lenses and contact lenses to frames and store design. opti presents a new section: a gallery with the sketches of the firmsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; designs presented at the trade show. Before everyone can experience the final versions of

the new designs in the showcases of the trade show, a white sheet of paper lies in front of every designer. Quite a few hours of sweat and effort elapse, numerous drafts are discarded and end up in the waste paper baskets of the design studios. Yet then comes the crucial creative thought, and the idea is captured in the form of a hand drawing or a computer graphic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; these are precious sheets of paper that are normally safely guarded in an archive, away from prying eyes. opti exhibits, in a visual gallery, a small selection of the masterpieces, all of which are signed by the designer: a truly artistic delight.

THE TRADE MARK OF OPTI IS THE HIGH AND RELIABLE RECOGNITION. AFTERALL, NEW AND FIRST TIME PARTICIPATING COMPANIES SPICE UP THE SHOW WITH NEW AND EXCITING ADDITIONS

opti takes place annually at the beginning of the year on the fairground Messe Munich, the first edition of the trade show was held in 1998. As an international exhibition it provides the professional audience in four exhibition halls with the entire ophthalmic spectrum

interview

ROLF Spectacles

SETTING NEW TRENDS

by Nicoletta Tobia

The small company based in the Tyrolean Alps creates elegant and innovative spectacles made of natural materials. With one goal in mind: to constantly develop new ideas. Interview with Roland Wolf, co-founder and Ceo of ROLF Spectacles When and how did you move the first steps in the eyewear market? From the first prototypes to your newest designs, how far have you gone? Roland Wolf: The story of ROLF Spectacles goes back over five years when it all started in our parents’ basement producing the first prototypes, which were presented at Opti Munich in January 2009. The first Silmo d’Or Award followed in September 2009, just a few months after having entered the market. To mark 5 years of ROLF Spectacles, we have introduced our new “evolved collection” in 2014 with a range of new designs and new wood combinations as well as stone. The newest addition to our collection sums up 5 years of eyewear design. Wood, pure horn, stone: your particular expertise is working with natural materials. Which are the main reasons of this choice? RW: We have started out using wood, as we wanted to produce eyewear frames out of natural materials and were familiar with the material and the machines and tools. So it was

WE INVENTED A UNIQUE WOODEN HINGE AND A SPECIAL LENS-GLAZING SYSTEM, WHICH ALLOWS US TO PRODUCE THIN, LIGHTWEIGHT AND ELEGANT EYEWEAR FRAMES

Roland Wolf, co-founder and Ceo of ROLF Spectacles

interview

an easy decision to be made, as time went on we wanted to set new trends and find new materials, the idea to combine stone and wood came up. The same goes for horn and the ultimate innovation at the time, the pureHORN made out of pure horn.

WE ARE DEEPLY ROOTED IN THE TYROLEAN MOUNTAINS WHERE WE GREW UP, HOWEVER WE LIKE TO VENTURE OUT AND WORK ON AN INTERNATIONAL LEVEL. WE HAVE FOUND A GOOD WAY TO COMBINE BOTH, TRADITION AND INNOVATION

What is the positioning of wood in the current optical market? Could it be considered only as a trend? RW: We can only speak for ourselves and we believe that wood as a material is far beyond any fashion trend, it is a material that has been used in many ways over the years and the centuries. Within the optical market, wooden eyewear is certainly a niche product. With our natural eyewear we do not only serve a niche market but also a premium market and if it should be a trend, then it may be a trend that will last for years to come. What does wood allow you to do or not to do, from a stylistic point of view? Which are the greatest technical “challenges” you have to face in working with wood? RW: Wood is a natural and a homogeneous material, it depends very much on the type of wood and its structure, but that structure and texture make every single frame so unique and working with wood so interesting. Plus we have mastered the challenges of the material inventing a unique wooden hinge and a special lens-glazing system, which allows us to produce thin, lightweight and elegant eyewear frames.

The Arabella 71 style, part of the “advanced|horn” collection that won the red dot award 2014 – product design (DE)

Where do you get the inspiration for new designs? RW: The designs are based on vintage cars and Marija “Mary” Iljazovic, one of the founders and the designer in the team, gets her inspiration from old car magazines as well as nature, where she likes to spend time with her horses and dogs whenever she finds the time.

How many people are involved in the design process of your collections? RW: It is still a small, family-run business and in particular the design process is pretty much left to Mary, who follows the process from the idea and the design to the programming and production, so it’s nearly a one-woman-show. With everything, from planning to designing and producing, based in our manufactory in the Tyrolean Alps, it’s always exciting to see the designs turn into actual frames within a short space of time. What new developments in terms of products are you working on? RW: That we cannot give away, but only so much that we are renowned for constantly creating something new. At the moment however the focus lies on the development of our new “evolved collection”. Craftsmanship, innovation, tradition, research… What are the keywords for your production? And how strong are the ties to your native region? RW: The keywords are pretty much craftsmanship, passion and strength, loving attention to detail and innovation. We are deeply rooted in the Tyrolean mountains where we grew up, however like to venture out and work on an international level. We have found a good way to combine both, tradition and innovation. Plus, something else that makes us unique is the fact that we are about “More than just frames”, as we do not only produce the frames in-house, but also our cases, sample trays, displays and exhibition stands, just to name a few.

The know-how of the last five years has gone into the new "evolved collection" which reflects continuous development, motion and growth. The result are ultra-light, delicate glasses with clear lines and a design which highlights the precise final sanding and different wood types

editorial

Photography Chiara Romagnoli Style Giuliano Deidda Hair and Make up Alice Fayre @ MKS-milano Models Lucas Mascarini @ Fashion and Dylan @ Pop Models Production Luigi Bruzzone

Spectacles L.G.R Jacket and shirt Blauer

editorial

Glasses Kirk and Kirk Dress Paul Smith Black Wallpaper Jannelli e Volpi

editorial

Specs Catuma Coat and dress Gallo Necklaces Katharina Litz

editorial

Eyeglasses Balmain Jacket Banana Republic Polo shirt Lacoste L!ve Trousers Massimo Rebecchi

editorial

Eyewear Tavat Dress Calvin Klein Collection Necklace (worn as a bracelet) Katharina Litz

editorial

Glasses Epos Jacket Bark Shirt Calvin Klein Platinum Tie Caruso

editorial

Spectacles Masunaga V-neck Hackett London Shirt PS Paul Smith Wallpaper Jannelli e Volpi

editorial

Specs Dolce&Gabbana Dress Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m Isola Marras Necklace Shourouk

trends

by Alessandra Albarello

his trend draws inspiration from the title of Jim Jarmusch’s wonderful 1984 film “Stranger than Paradise”, which is perfect for describing a few variations on the theme of sunglasses. As well as accessories that help you to see and protect your eyes from the sun, they are also made to be seen and to convey your personality at first sight. Either what we are or what we would like to be. The initial impact is undoubtedly strong, theatrical and ironic. The glasses are transformed into jewellery, adorned with stones, or actual works of art, at times featuring pop or punk influences. One thing is certain: they don’t go unnoticed. Indeed, they are reminiscent of Elsa Schiaparelli’s original 1951 Man Ray-inspired spiral creation, or the extraordinary sculptural eyewear produced by Pierre Cardin in the 1960s and 70s. They reclaim their symbolic meaning in order to leave space for dreams, becoming objects of desire that decorate the face, focusing attention exclusively on the gaze, on the eyes. However, it is not just the decoration that takes on a fundamental role in these accessories, but also the unusual, neverbefore-seen shape, which is at times almost incomplete, bestowing the look with its strong character and rhythm. And, while on the subject of rhythm, it is no coincidence that some of these brands have been chosen by rock stars and famous artists.

Kenzo, S/S 2015

model: BF680 WHITE ROCK Col.421 - BF681 DYNAMITE Col.422

produced and distributed by PRAMAOR.COM

product design: Corrado Rosson

art direction - graphic design: anidride\design

photos: Giovanni De Sandre

www.blackďŹ n.eu

trends

NEW DIRECTIONS The glasses are transformed into jewellery, adorned with stones, or actual works of art, at times featuring pop or punk influences. One thing is certain: they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go unnoticed by Alessandra Albarello

Raffaella di Montalban Raffaella Lizambri approached the world of eyewear by looking at it through the eyes of an architect. This led her to deconstruct the temples, rebuilding them as pieces of genuine jewellery and taking advantage of a subtle play of balances. The exclusive Raffaella di Montalban line was created using this approach, and this model with quartz briolette and amethyst temples forms part of it.

Theo A true piece of eyewear jewellery, created in four different versions, each one produced as a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Two models are coated in gold and two in palladium for a distinctly luxurious look. Called Hypnotic, it is an accessory that is destined to be noticed. For people who decide to dare, naturally. And to hypnotise.

trends

03 05 07

Mercura NYC Two real “Chelsea Girls” lie behind Mercura: Rachel Cohen-Lunning and Merrilee Lichtenstein Cohen, two artists that created sculptures for the legendary Hotel Chelsea in New York in the mid-70s, a place frequented by artists such as Andy Warhol. Their glasses are also works of art, whimsical and excessive pieces that are almost unique, such as this crystal-adorned model.

Dolce & Gabbana Part of the Enchanted Beauties collection, this limited edition model reinterprets the floral themes and colours of Sicily, a favourite topic of the designer couple. An oversized transparent acetate shape is the starting point, leading the imagination to an enchanted forest, where precious and colourful flowers decorated by Swarovski crystals blossom.

Sonia Rykiel An asymmetrical, unusual, half moon shape has been chosen for this Sonia Rykiel model that features a modern look with a vague hint of 1960s-70s vintage. The acetate frame is, of course, crossed by lines, a theme that runs through all of the French designer’s collections.

Dsquared2 This limited edition Ophelia model fully reflects the ironic and transgressive character of the two Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Caten. A cascade of topaz and crystal coloured leaf-cut Swarovski elements adorns the sides of the oversized acetate profile. Opulent and glamorous, Ophelia is also available in a Havana version with black lenses. For true stars.

Miu Miu The form of these sunglasses reinterprets the shape of a butterfly, which is broken abruptly by a sharp cut for a contemporary look. They are made of acetate and feature a distinctly thick top bar, which is illuminated by rhinestones, while the lower part is rimless.

Kenzo The logo is this model’s most important detail, which takes all its themes from the pop art movement – the transparent and fluorescent colour and the irregular script that recalls a neon sign. This model is available in three other colour combinations.

NE WS 44

SWISS EYEWEAR GROUP The 2015 INVU Premium Collection launch Following the big global success of the INVU launch in 2014, Swiss Eyewear Group (International) AG (SEG) is proud to launch in addition to its core INVU range its first ever INVU Premium Collection in 2015. The INVU Premium collection has classic styles for both men and women, and uses premium materials such as TR 90, acetate and carbon fiber as well as temple embellishments and innovative frame treatments. The INVU premium collection also features the ultra polarized lens technology from Swiss Eyewear Group, which gives consumers crystal-clear, glare-free vision with improved color contrasts as well as a best in class UV-400 absorber. INVU ultra polarized continues to be one of the only, if not THE ONLY fully polarized global brand in the impulse segment targeted at young and young-at-heart customers, positioned on an average price of 49 Euro. Positioned for retail from Euro 79 the new INVU Premium styles are aimed at the more discerning customer wanting something special. To effectively support optical retailers, the sought-after 2015 INVU Collection is backed by a state-of-theart marketing program that includes an INVU ultra polarized campaign and new color lens tester technology as part of the sleek, modern merchandisers and head-turning window displays. For the consumer, SEG has put a color lens technology tester into the attractive sunglass case to encourage word of mouth advertising with family and friends.

MYWOODY WooDone presents at Opti MyWoodi, wooden eyewear for everyone An extraordinary new collection of wooden eyewear debuts at Opti. Color, personality and an unbeatable price are key to describing the new brand. MyWoodi originated at WooDone, already widely-recognized around the world for its eponymous collection of wooden eyewear, and known for its superior quality and craftsmanship. With MyWoodi, entrepreneurs Klaus Tavella and Thomas Oberegger, and their new partner Alexander Fischnaller, intend to revolutionize the market for wooden eyewear, making it accessible to everyone. A challenge that was successfully tackled. After a year of trials and prototypes, the MyWoodi team constructed a wooden frame crafted by machines custom-engineered for this job. Manufactured in Italy, using wood from around the world, MyWoodi eyewear features a clean, linear style that is ultra-modern and extremely cool. The light, playful and totally tasteful wooden eyewear is priced aggressively, placing it within range of everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s budget. Featured in the first collection are 12 styles - 5 sun wear and 7 vision wear - in 6 different types of wood and colors. Composed of eight layers of wood, their exciting chromatic nuances are fresh and fashionable. Sixtyprocessing phases, 15 of which are carried out by hand, yield a feather-light product that weighs in at 13 grams (less than half an ounce). An invisible side hinge completes the whole.

Swiss Eyewear Group (International) AG is a registered privately held company with its headquarters in ZĂźrich Switzerland. INVU is a registered trademark of the Swiss Eyewear Group (International) AG

MyWoodi is a division of WooDone Eyewear. swisseyeweargroup.com invueyewear.com

mywoodi.com

view from the us

James J. Spina • VP Editor in Chief 20/20 USA

top the presses! Have you heard the latest news? Well…that’s not exactly accurate. Anyone having read 20/20’s USA edition for the last TEN years is well aware of the fact that there is a hot demographic out there stepping up to secure eyewear’s position and power in the realm of consumer consumption. We dubbed them GenEYE but to all intents and purposes most know this brood as the coming of age Millennial Generation and, trust me; these young folks are intent on replacing the baby boomer as the focus of any and everything when it comes to demanding a position of power in the global economic scenario. And because of their enviable position you can be assured that even the baby boomer is going to be hungry for the products craved by this fastest growing demographic. Want some added opti-insight? Here’s the current position we’re taking in an upcoming issue: “Decisions… Decisions… Divisions. So you think you have your own “brand” allegiance a ll worked out. You’re tota lly committed to t he rapidly emerging trend toward heritage eyewear coined as Our Eyewear in 20/20. OR…You’re strictly devoted to lush and lucrative independent eyewear aficionados lapping in luxury. And then there are those of you dedicated to the global consumer bent toward designer and lifestyle brands as delivered quite profusely in the eyewear arena. We l l…G u e s s w h a t? W h a t y o u r e a l l y n e e d t o concentrate on is how you will approach what is likely to be the biggest issue facing the dispensing of eyewear now and well into the next few years. We’re talking GenEYE, the core millennial generation that is likely the most fixated eyewear demographic EVER in the history of retailing glasses. GenEYE loves eyewear. It’s hip. It’s hot and it is in their sights as a must have object for seeing clearly i nto a ny t h i n g t he y lo ok at A N D t he i r f ut u re assessment of their very identities. This new GenEYE demographic is huge and growing. If you don’t “get” them you might think about getting out of optical. They are looking for a spec-feast and you need to be ready for them. What about those baby boomers? Don’t worry. They’re here since THEY are the biggest GenEYE wannabes on the planet. And if a GenEYE thinks its hip to get spec’d you can be sure there’s a boomer out there wanting that same guise. So… pick, choose and mix your brand-identities and simply GO FOR IT.” January’s 20/20 USA Edition. There you have it. And as I say in our 20/20…GO FOR IT. James J. Spina

48 - INTERVIEW Hoya Sports Lenses Made to perform better Sports glasses have been evolving at a rapid rate in recent years. Sports Vision researcher Geraint Griffiths MSc, MCOptom, talks about recent developments.

50 - CONTINUING EDUCATION The optics of free-form lenses A course supported by an educational grant from Carl Zeiss Vision

58 - INNOVATIONS News & Products An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market: Topcon, Frey & Winkler, Snapitscrew, Safilens

european lenses

technology

Hoya Sports Lenses

MADE TO PERFORM BETTER S

by Petrick de Koning

ports glasses have been developing at a rapid rate in recent years. These special sports glasses have significant advantages over “normal” (sun)glasses. They protect the eyes against dirt splashes, dust, wind, cold and harmful UV rays. There are also fewer high-impact risks from a squashball or striking stones. Through the use of contrast-enhancing tints, wrap-up glasses also enable optimum vision. And if the sportsperson is using prescription glasses, special lenses will ensure the best possible view in all angles. Finally, many sportspeople simply also believe sports glasses are cool. Special sports frames and lenses help to achieve the best sportive results by providing optimal visual performance. In the field this trend has also spurred many sports lenses innovations. Sports Vision researcher Geraint Griffiths MSc, MCOptom, talks about recent developments. What are the demands for sports lenses? Geraint Griffiths: Wrap-up frames offer sportspeople many advantages. Curved frames provide protection while offering a good view on all sides. A frame which follows the contours of the face imposes specific demands on the lenses. The high-base curve-wrap prescriptive lenses need to be able to translate corrections to vision deficiencies effectively into a sports lens. Certainly because athletes want to be able to see clearly from all angles, and want to perceive good contrasts.

an undesirable prismatic or power effect. Distortion can also occur in the peripheral areas of the field of vision. The visual system is driven by the peripheral retina. Certainly with sports like tennis and squash, it’s important to be able to track the ball’s route. Large, curved lenses can influence the focus. A lens surface that is optimised to follow the rotation of the eye can prevent these deviations. Freeform design technology helps to improve the sharpness and prism balance. Optometrists and opticians measure an extensive series of details for this, like the position of the eye, left and right, the distance from the nose, angle etc. But to achieve an optimum lens, lens producers perform a recalculation. A computer recalculates the power of the lens at more than 1,000 places, thus ensuring the perfect shape and curvature, so that the athlete can always perform at his or her best.”

What is the challenge in designing lenses for wrap-up frames? GG: Standard lenses don’t fit perfectly in curved frames. The dihedral angle effects influence the position of the lens in relation to the eye. There’s also a risk of distortion, for instance 48

interview

Then the eye receives less light information, and performances can be influenced negatively. Special tests can determine the best tint colour per individual: green, orange, yellow, brown, copper or purple, including the density for specific sports, indoors and outdoors. What is the importance of the lens material itself? GG: As I mentioned earlier, protection was one of the reasons for sportspeople to choose wrap-up frames. But along with impact resistance, the refraction properties are also important. PNX, refined from Trivex, meets both demands. It’s a thin, light and yet robust material which is also extremely suitable for freeform technology. Comfort can be improved further with a good coating. This ensures extra protection against scratches, dust, water droplets and any disturbing dazzle from incoming light. The Hoya Hi-Vision LongLife UV Control coating is the strongest coating in the market with 100% UV protection (both on the front and rear of the glass). This way sportsmen and women are assured of good and safe vision with maximum wearing comfort. This lets them concentrate fully on their sporting performance.

What’s the role of binocular vision in sports? GG: In daily life the coordination between both our eyes is generally not an issue. But for sport it’s important to know for the lens prescription, just which eye is dominant. Research has shown, for example, that a clay-pigeon shooter with a right dominant eye and divergence excess in his right eye, and shooting from his right shoulder, will probably shoot to the right of the target. In many instances a prism for

A COMPUTER RECALCULATES THE POWER OF THE LENS AT MORE THAN 1,000 PLACES, ENSURING THE PERFECT SHAPE AND CURVATURE, SO THAT THE ATHLETE CAN PERFORM AT HIS BEST

HOYA SPORTIVE SPORTS LENSES HOYA SPORTIVE TRUEFORM HIGH-CURVED LENSES OFFER SPORTSPEOPLE:

• • • • • • • •

the non-dominant eye is sufficient to correct this effect. Eye dominance is also important for the most important visual skills when aiming and anticipating in sport. The dominant eye is responsible for aiming. The position of objects is determined. Anticipating, catching or avoiding well requires a good estimation of depth. Then it will be possible to estimate the distance and speed. That’s why it’s important for optometrists and opticians to be aware of this and to incorporate it into their lens advice. Ultimately this could mean the difference between winning or losing: a ball hit perfectly or a brilliant play.

Availability in single and multifocal lens designs Improved binocular vision performance through the Binocular Eye Model Freeform back surface power optimisation for individual position of wear Prism compensation for the FFFA Two base curves available to match the frame curvature Diameter up to 95 mm to fit every frame

HOYA SPORTIVE TRUEFORM HIGH-CURVED LENSES OFFER SPORTSPEOPLE:

Hi-Vision LongLife UV Control – Anti-reflective, scratch-resistant, water, dirt and dust-repelling with 100% UV protection on both the front and rear of the glass; Hoya Special Sphere – Contrast-enhancing tints for optimal vision; Hoya Mirror – To provide additional glare reduction during extreme sports in snow and on water.

How do contrast-enhancing tints influence performance? GG: Research has shown that the traditional sunglassesbrown doesn’t always offer the best contrast. That means that not all the details are properly visible. If the filter has not been attuned to the eye characteristics, weather conditions and the environment, a background haze might distract the athlete. 49

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This course is supported by an educational grant from Carl Zeiss Vision

THE OPTICS OF FREE-FORM LENSES by Darryl Meister Unfortunately, the optical industry lost Darryl Meister in 2014. He was a Certified Master Optician and technical marketing manager for Carl Zeiss Vision. His contributions continue in the reprinting of his work here.

OBJECTIVES Describe and define freeform technology as used in progressive lenses.

Demonstrate how progressive designs are better delivered when using a computer engine that can optimize Rx’s and patient wearing conditions.

Describe the opportunities that free-form manufacturing has for future use in progressive lenses.

FREE-FORM TECHNOLOGY Free-form surfacing, also referred to as direct surfacing or digital surfacing, refers to a lens surfacing process that is capable of producing complex surface shapes, any aspheric, atoric, and even progressive addition surfaces. A typical free-form surfacing process begins by generating the lens surface using a three-axis, computer-numericallycontrolled (or CNC) generator. With three possible axes of movement, the incredibly precise, single-point cutting tools of these generators can produce virtually any lens surface shape with a high degree of accuracy and smoothness. The worked lens surface is then polished to a high luster using a f lexible polishing pad that is also dynamically controlled by a computer. With free-form surfacing technology, a prescription optical laboratory can now directly surface a variety of possible lens designs directly onto a semi-finished lens blank in addition to the prescription curves that are normally applied. With two separate surfaces to work with, the optical design and prescription components of a freeform progressive lens can be applied to the lens blank in variety of possible configurations. Each type of free-form lens represents a particular combination of factory-molded and free-form-surfaced lens curves. The lens surfaces involved range in complexity from simple spherical surfaces to optically enhanced progressive surfaces that have been combined with the prescription sphere and cylinder curves (Figure 1). Back-surface lenses employ a factory-molded spherical front surface and a free-form-surfaced progressive back surface that has been combined with the prescription curves; the progressive optics are directly surfaced. Enhanced semi-finished lenses employ a factory-molded progressive surface on the front and free-form-surfaced

FIGURE 1 Common free-form progressive lenses are available in three different configurations.

prescription curves that have been optically optimized on the back; the progressive optics are factory-molded. Dual-surface lenses employ a factory-molded progressive surface with a portion of the total addition power on the front and a free-form-surfaced progressive surface with the remaining addition power that has been combined with the prescription curves on the back; the progressive optics are split between both lens surfaces. Regardless of the type of free-form lens, the placement of the actual progressive optics, whether on the front surface, back surface, or split between both, has minimal impact on the magnitude of the inherent unwanted astigmatism of the lens design. Because a typical spectacle lens represents an “optical system” of fairly negligible thickness, the optics of each surface are essentially additive. Consequently, the inherent unwanted astigmatism of progressive lenses is not significantly inf luenced by placement of the progressive optics (Figure 2). 50

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using “average“ fitting parameters, for either “standard” or “small” frame sizes. This results in optical compromises for many wearers, preventing them from enjoying the best possible vision. Additionally, these compromises impose limits on the adaptation rates of traditional progressive lenses. Although modern progressive lens designs work quite well for most wearers, with acceptance rates of 90% or more, no single progressive lens design will deliver optimum performance for every possible combination of prescription, fitting, and frame size values. Each prescription requires a unique optical design to fully eliminate lens aberrations, which represent power errors from the desired prescription. Factors such as the position of the fitted lens can introduce additional power errors. Moreover, unless the corridor length of the lens design matches the ideal length associated with a given frame, visual utility is further compromised. Although certain wearers may enjoy the intended optical performance in traditional progressive lenses, many wearers must tolerate reduced optical performance (Figure 3).

FIGURE 2 The ray-traced optical astigmatism for a “dual surface” progressive lens design and a conventional front-surface lens design that has been similarly optimized are virtually identical.

Although the inherent astigmatism may not differ appreciably, placing the progressive optics on the back surface can minimize unwanted magnification effects. Skew distortion, which is an aberration that causes objects to appear sheared or “bowed” through the periphery of progressive lenses, is due both to magnification changes created by differences in curvature (or “shape”) across the front surface and to magnification changes as a result of the unwanted cylinder power produced by these differences in curvature. Placing the progressive optics on the back surface of the lens eliminates the contribution of the front surface to these magnification changes. Moreover, because the progressive viewing zones are brought physically closer to the eye, slightly wider fields of view may be obtained when the progressive optics are located on the back surface. Nevertheless, the inherent differences in optical performance due only to the type of free-form lens design—or the distribution of the progressive optics—are generally small. When free-form surfacing technology is utilized in conjunction with sophisticated optical design, it becomes possible to match the optics of each progressive lens exactly to the visual requirements of the individual wearer, prior to fabrication. Given the inherent limitations of traditional mass quantity progressive lenses, which are generally produced from a handful of factory-molded semifinished lens blanks, free-form technology offers the most meaningful visual benefit to wearers.

FIGURE 3 Plots of ray-traced optical astigmatism demonstrate that the optical performance of traditional progressive lenses is sensitive to the prescription and position of the fitted lens.

FREE-FORM CUSTOMIZATION The advent of free-form technology has freed progressive lens designers from the constraints of semi-finished lenses. Now, progressive lens designs can be fully customized to the visual requirements of individual wearers. In the 1990s, German lens designers first began customizing progressive lenses using free-form technology. They applied atoric lens designs to the back of progressive lens blanks using free-form surfacing. Today, in one of the more advanced applications of free-form technology available, a powerful optical design engine performs complex calculations online in a centralized server computer using parameters supplied by the eye care professional, including the wearer’s prescription, fitting geometry, and frame information. The final lens calculations are then transmitted directly to freeform surfacing equipment for fabrication. Each lens design is dynamically manipulated in “real time” by this powerful optical design engine using data specific to the wearer in order to create a truly unique and fully customized progressive lens design. The ideal geometry of the lens design is first determined for the wearer, including the best corridor length and appropriate near zone inset. The initial optical performance of the calculated lens is then compared against the performance of the ideal or “target” lens, while the optics of the actual lens design are fine-tuned

LIMITATIONS OF TRADITIONAL PROGRESSIVE LENSES With traditional progressive lenses, the progressive optics on the front surface are factory-molded by the manufacturer, and the back is surfaced to the desired prescription curves by a prescription optical laboratory. Each progressive lens design is typically available in twelve addition powers per eye, in up to a dozen lens materials, resulting in hundreds of lens blanks for each base curve offered. A second, “shortcorridor” version of the lens doubles the total number of lens blanks needed. Traditional, semi-finished progressive lenses necessitate massive product development and inventory costs. Consequently, changes to the basic lens design of these progressive lenses are limited to subtle variations in optical design across a handful of base curves in order to work sufficiently well over the relatively broad prescription ranges associated with each. Traditional progressive lenses are therefore designed for a few “average” prescription powers, 51

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on a point-by-point basis, using complex aspherization algorithms, until the final lens reproduces the desired optical performance of the target lens as closely as possible (Figure 4).

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The optical effects of lens aberrations are exacerbated in progressive lenses. Oblique astigmatism interacts optically with the surface astigmatism of the progressive lens design, causing the zones of clear vision to shrink. Lens aberrations can also cause the viewing zones of a progressive to become distorted and shifted from their ideal location as certain regions of unwanted astigmatism become more blurred while other regions of astigmatism actually become clearer. This distortion of the shape and location of the central viewing zones disrupts binocular vision through the lenses by moving the “sweet spots” of the lens from their ideal location. With sufficiently advanced software and a free-form delivery system, it becomes possible to customize the progressive lens design based upon the unique prescription requirements of each wearer (Figure 6). By fine-tuning the optical design of the progressive lens for the exact prescription using a sophisticated optical optimization process, residual lens aberrations are virtually eliminated. Wearers can therefore enjoy the widest fields of clear vision possible, regardless of prescription. Furthermore, the binocular utility of the lenses is maintained with wide, symmetrical fields of view.

FIGURE 4 In one application of free-form technology, a powerful optical design engine custom-designs each progressive lens online, in real time, before transmitting the final lens calculations to a free-form generator for fabrication.

CUSTOMIZATION FOR THE PRESCRIPTION When the wearer looks through the peripheral regions of a spectacle lens, aberrations occur that result in errors from the desired focus. Lens aberrations such as oblique astigmatism create unwanted sphere and cylinder power errors in the periphery, which degrade image quality and narrow the field of clear vision for the wearer (Figure 5). Eliminating these aberrations entirely would require a unique base curve or aspheric design for each prescription. Traditional semi-finished lenses, however, are only available in a limited number of base curves. These lenses will deliver optimum optical performance only for sphere powers located near the center of the prescription range associated with each base curve. Other prescriptions, on the other hand, will suffer from residual aberrations, particularly when the prescription includes cylinder power, since conventional lens designs cannot eliminate the errors produced by the sphere and cylinder power simultaneously.

FIGURE 6 This free-form progressive lens is precisely customized for the wearer’s exact prescription requirements, which ensures wide, symmetrical fields of clear vision.

CUSTOMIZATION FOR THE POSITION OF WEAR The position of wear is the position of the fitted lens relative to the actual wearer, as measured by pantoscopic tilt, face-form wrap, and vertex distance of the lens. Spectacle prescriptions are typically determined using refractor-head or trial-frame lenses that are positioned perpendicular to the wearer’s lines of sight. Once fitted to the wearer’s face, however, eyeglass frames generally leave spectacle lenses tilted with respect to the lines of sight. Lens tilt introduces oblique astigmatism, which results in an increase in sphere power and unwanted cylinder power. These unwanted power changes reduce the optical performance of a progressive lens, particularly the quality of vision through the central viewing zones (Figure 7). With sufficiently advanced software and a free-form delivery system, it is possible to customize the progressive lens design based upon the unique fitting parameters of each wearer (Figure 8).

FIGURE 5 For many prescriptions, the field of clear vision may be significantly reduced and distorted in shape by uncorrected lens aberrations. 52

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progressive lenses customized for the position of wear are designed to provide the wearer with the prescribed optical performance once the lens in the actual position of wear. As a result, small differences from the original prescription are required at the distance and near verification points of the lens. These sphere, cylinder, axis, and addition power adjustments are supplied as a compensated prescription, which represents the correct lens powers to verify when using a standard focimeter.

CUSTOMIZATION FOR THE FRAME SIZE The optical performance of a progressive lens is significantly inf luenced by corridor length, the progression that connects the distance to the near zone. If the corridor is too long for a small vertical frame size, reading utility is greatly reduced, since the near zone is essentially cut away. If the corridor is too short, on the other hand, the optics of the lens design must be essentially “compressed.” Due to the mathematical constraints of progressive lens surfaces, the rate of change in unwanted astigmatism across a progressive lens design must increase as the corridor length decreases, resulting in narrower central viewing zones, reduced intermediate utility, and higher levels of unwanted peripheral astigmatism. The corridor length of a progressive lens design should therefore be no shorter than necessary, within the limits of physiologically comfortable vision at least. Nevertheless, the corridor lengths of “standard” progressive lenses generally offer insufficient reading utility at shorter fitting heights. “Short-corridor” progressive lens designs are frequently designed to work at extremely short fitting heights, often resulting in significant optical compromises in all but the smallest frame styles. Consequently, unless the corridor length of the lens design happens to coincide with the optimal length required by the size of the frame, the wearer must tolerate unnecessary optical compromises and reduced comfort (Figure 10).

FIGURE 7 Vision may be significantly degraded by the position of the fitted lens.

FIGURE 8 This free-form progressive lens is precisely customized for the wearer’s exact fitting parameters in order to deliver clear vision through the central viewing zones.

FIGURE 9 Although traditional progressive lenses are often designed to exhibit the specified optical powers only when measured using a focimeter, free-form progressive lenses customized for the position of wear provide the specified optical powers when the lenses are actually worn.

If the wearer’s pantoscopic tilt, face-form wrap, and vertex distance are supplied, the position of wear of the fitted lens may be modeled using ray tracing in order to apply the necessary optical corrections across the lens surface during the optical optimization process. Wearers can therefore enjoy the best optical performance possible, regardless of their unique fitting requirements. Traditional progressive lenses are often designed to exhibit the specified optical performance only when measured using a focimeter, such as a lensometer (Figure 9). Free-form

FIGURE 10 Unless the corridor length of the lens design coincides with the optimal length required for a given frame size, the wearer must tolerate insufficient reading utility or smaller viewing zone sizes and higher levels of peripheral astigmatism.

With sufficiently advanced software, it becomes possible to customize the corridor length of the lens design to the fitting height required by the wearer’s chosen frame style 53

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(Figure 11). By matching the optics of the progressive lens design to the wearer’s frame size, the lens design can take full advantage of the available lens area. This maximizes the utility of the central viewing zones without unnecessarily compromising optical performance in other regions of the lens. Wearers can therefore enjoy sufficient reading utility with the largest viewing zones possible, regardless of frame size.

FIGURE 11 The corridor length of this free-form progressive lens varies continuously from 10 to 16 mm —in 0.1-mm increments— in order to precisely match the optics of the progressive lens design to the size and fitting height of the wearer’s chosen frame style. FIGURE 12 Head-tracking devices are utilized to determine whether a given individual is a “head mover” or an “eye mover” (photo courtesy of Carl Zeiss Vision GmbH).

ADDITIONAL FORMS OF CUSTOMIZATION Other forms of optical customization for the wearer are also possible. For instance, free-form progressive lenses that are customized to the wearer’s lifestyle and to the wearer’s head-movement propensity are currently available. These progressive lenses represent just a few of the possible forms of optical customization for the wearer, which ultimately promise to close the gap completely between the unique visual needs of each wearer and the optical design of the lens. The ideal progressive lens design for a given wearer will depend in no small part upon the visual demands specific to his or her lifestyle. It has been demonstrated that preference for progressive lens designs can vary with the unique visual needs of the wearer. If the relative visual demands of the wearer are first assessed using computer screening or a questionnaire, the ideal balance between the distance and near viewing zones of the lens design can be suitably tailored to the individual. Progressive lens wearers more frequently engaged in tasks associated with far vision may prefer progressive lens designs customized with larger distance zones, whereas wearers with greater near vision demands may prefer lens designs customized with larger near zones. It has also been demonstrated that individuals vary in their habitual head movement propensity. The total change in the wearer’s gaze is due to a combination of head movement and eye movement. Individuals who tend to exhibit more relative head movement are frequently referred to as “head movers,” whereas individuals who exhibit more eye movement are referred to as “eye movers” (Figure 12). Because the limited width of the viewing zones of a progressive lens may restrict lateral eye movement, “eye movers” may benefit from lens designs customized with wider viewing zones. “Head movers,” on the other hand, may benefit from lens designs customized with softer gradients of power and astigmatism in order to minimize image swim and similar magnification effects that can disrupt vision during the compensatory head movements.

CONCLUSION Some free-form lens suppliers claim that “free-form” or “digitally surfaced” progressive lenses are inherently superior to traditional lenses, due to the potential of freeform surfacing to replicate certain features of the lens design more precisely than traditional molding. Nevertheless, the use of free-form surfacing to deliver customized progressive lenses arguably represents the most meaningful visual benefit of this technology to wearers. In fact, because of the difficulties in maintaining accurate surface curvatures with the soft lap polishing process used in free-form surfacing, it is entirely possible to produce free-form lenses that fail to reproduce the desired lens design faithfully without extensive process engineering and ongoing quality control. The full potential of free-form technology will only be realized when utilized in conjunction with powerful software tools capable of “real-time” optical design using input specific to the individual wearer. It is possible, for instance, to use free-form surfacing technology to deliver traditional-type progressive lenses on demand, often by mathematically combining a fixed, predefined progressive lens design (or “points” file) with the prescription curves normally applied to the back of the lens blank. Free-form progressive lenses of this type essentially replicate the performance of traditional, semi-finished progressive lenses. Furthermore, free-form technology will not substantially improve a fundamentally poor lens design. If a given lens design offers only mediocre performance and wearer satisfaction, a free-form-customized version of that same design will only ensure that this mediocre performance is delivered consistently to all wearers. Ultimately, an advanced optical design and free-form delivery system promises to minimize non-adapts and maximize patient satisfaction. 54

Made to perform better

Hoya Sports lenses. For next level performance. Meet your sportive customers’ optical requirements with Nulux and Hoyalux Sportive lenses. Hoya’s new range of high-curved Sports lenses come in a variety of contrastenhancing tints and three eye-catching mirror coatings, offering: • Wide fields of vision at all distances • Continuous protection from wind, dust, glare and sun • High-contrast vision in all weather conditions

ADvertoriAL

RODENSTOCK

HAPPY BIRTHDAY ImpressionIST ! ®

EVEN BETTER IN 2015: IMPRESSIONIST® 3

mpressionIST® reaches its 10th anniversary milestone, and can look back at an incomparable success story. The innovative measurement technology from Rodenstock set new standards right from the beginning – in the literal sense. That is because ImpressionIST® is the world's only video centring system that works without a measuring clip-on. It provides measurement results quickly and accurately via its three-dimensional comfort technology.

The latest generation has been improved further and can be seen as of this spring. Via an online update, ImpressionIST® 3 will create image quality that is optimised even more according to aesthetic perspectives. On the occasion of its birthday, the Rodenstock Consulting program will be installed as a basis version on the devices as a standard feature.

INNOVATIVE, PRECISE, CUSTOMER-FRIENDLY

A DRAW AT THE OPTI

To the customer, it feels just like simply looking into the mirror. In reality, it is a complex, high-tech process that determines all the individual parameters and the unique Rodenstock design parameters with just one picture from two 3D highperformance cameras. They are the best prerequisites for the customer to choose the right lenses and design, because he is helped that way to have the best possible vision through the perfect spectacles. Hence, the ImpressionIST® helps opticians in their expert advice in a very professional and customerfriendly way. All the relevant parameters are recorded at a distance of just one arm's length without any bothersome aids. There are now three product generations available in more than 40 countries. Rodenstock still continues to develop the high-tech devices, and they are manufactured in Germany.

Although it has already won the iF design award for its lean and modern design, the ImpressionIST® 3 will have a special look at the 2015 trade fair. There will be a one piece only model which you can even win. It will be handed over during the course of an international draw to the lucky customer who can win over the Rodenstock jury or under impressionist_10years@ rodenstock.com with his extraordinary success story by end of March 2015. Expectations are high…

Rodenstock has endless success stories and many of them are based on the ImpressionIST®. Tell us your success story with Rodenstock and win this one piece only model. 56

VISIONARIES IN EDUCATION, FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY International Vision Expo is a highly anticipated international marketplace, welcoming more than 23,000 visitors from over 90 countries around the world.

International Vision Expo East has evolved, and extraordinary fashion is the focus of your 2015 experience.

Once again, International Vision Expo East opens its doors in the heart of New York City, where the world’s fashion leaders rub elbows with high finance and business visionaries. Luxurious boutiques, designer flagships and fashion emporiums offer style in every corner – and the city’s denizens provide the perfect inspiration for up-to-the-minute glamour.

The Galleria and The Underground have been reconceived and redesigned to deliver an unparalleled experience for high-fashion collections. This show within a show is now located on Level 3 of the exhibition to accommodate the growing number of international companies who participate. Specialty attractions include the French Loft and Italian Pavilion.

NYC’s offerings are too vast to cover during a single visit – which simply means you will always discover something new. Whether it’s the energy of a Broadway musical, the awe of internationally recognizable monuments like the Statue of Liberty or worldrenowned museums, only a destination as grand as New York City could house this global visionary event.

Working with the Accessories Council, we’ve added a new retail education track to provide a fresh perspective into how the broadening scope of brands, materials and technologies are shaping the fashion eyewear industry.

INTERNATIONAL VISION EXPO 2015

EDUCATION: THURSDAY, MARCH 19–SUNDAY, MARCH 22 EXHIBITION: FRIDAY, MARCH 20–SUNDAY, MARCH 22 JAVITS CENTER | NEW YORK, NY | VisionExpoEast.com | #VisionExpo PROUD SUPPORTER OF:

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Topcon TRK-2P, four instruments in one

The TRK-2P combines a refractometer, a keratometer, a non-contact tonometer and a pachymeter in one compact instrument. The TRK-2P features a fully auto alignment system with auto measurement function. The compact size and 8,5” rotating color touch screen control panel offers total flexibility for the operator and also for instrument location. With just one touch of the fingertip on the control panel, the TRK-2P will measure both eyes accurately due to Topcon’s exclusive Rotary Prism Technology. Cataract mode: The TRK-2P has a built-in function that allows measurement of patients who have a cataract or an opacity. This function works automatically or manually. Softer air-puff: Improved nozzle design and software control the optimal amount of air required for every IOP measurement. A softer air puff improves patient comfort and results in an improved measurement experience. Adjusted IOP: The built-in pachymeter function can be used to adjust the measured IOP value, depending on the cornea: if it is thicker or thinner than average. The integrated formula for IOP adjustment can be customized by the eye care practitioner.

Frey & Winkler Nose pads with more wearing comfort

From traditional nose pads, pad-arms and temple tips through to complete temple combinations, Frey & Winkler is known for innovations and often ground-breaking technical solutions. Focusing on high comfort and customer need, F&W invented a new type of nose pad with even more wearing comfort than regular silicone pads. Inside the anti-allergic silicone pad, there is a hollow chamber and an opening at one end. This creates an air cushion - the opening works like a valve enabling the pad to adjust itself automatically. Brand new within the Air-Family is the System 3 Air Tec: the air cushion pad with the little extra. Thanks to its typical stud this nose pad can be combined to all the System 3 pad arms, so that stylish frames made by chemical etching profit from this unique comfort as well.

innovations

An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market

Safilens fusion 1day presbyo, the new daily lens for presbyopia debuts at Opti

fusion 1day presbyo is the first daily lens for presbyopia based on the patented fusion technology. The fusion 1day presbyo project grew out of a quest to craft a soft lens for presbyopes that could be changed daily and ensure clear vision. It is designed for those who experience age-related close-up vision difficulties and who have trouble adjusting to “reading glasses”, but also for those who think they must relinquish wearing contact lenses because of unsatisfactory past experiences. fusion 1day presbyo ensures exceptional depth of field and sharp images for distance, intermediate and close-up vision, even for the most demanding myopes, and also stable images and well-defined contours under all light conditions. fusion technology™ incorporates a co-polymer made from Tamarind-Seed Polysaccharides (TSP) and hyaluronic acid (HA) into the contact lens and improves wearer comfort through normalization of the tear film. fusion 1day presbyo lenses ensure immediate results without a period of adaptation while offering excellent hygiene, comfort and practicality. They are available with 8.60 mm base curve, 14.10 mm diameter and powers ranging from + 8.00D to – 10.00D.

Snapitscrew Snapitscrew awarded European patent

Snapitscrew announced in November that its Snapit Frame Screw has been awarded European (EPO) patent #EP08782656. The Snapitscrew already has multiple patents granted across USA, Australia, South Africa, Philippines, Russia, Hong Kong and China as well as patents pending in various other territories. Innovative, time-saving Snapit screws – used in hinges and eyewires for repairs, assembly, and mounting – take the pain out of eyeglass repair. Optical professionals can now repair glasses (including those with a spring hinge) easily and quickly without the need for any tools. The company is already working with a number of optical chains, glazing labs and distributors and is starting to work with frame manufacturers who want to include the Snapit in their spare parts kit when distributing their products.

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Momenten der Unternehmensgeschichte, neben den Auszeichnungen wie „Crusaders of the Last Decade“ für Sama Eyewear sowie „Frau des Jahres“ für Sheila Vance. Mode und Luxus aus Japan und den USA Der Erfolg und die Kreativität von Sama Eyewear als exklusive Mode- und Luxusmarke stehen in direktem Zusammenhang mit japanischer und nun auch nordamerikanischer Technologie, wie Sheila Vance verrät. „Mit den von mir eingeführten Materialien und Technologien glaube ich, viele neue Möglichkeiten für das Design eröffnet zu haben. Mehrschichtiges Celuloseacetat (auch Zyl), Laserschnitte, Kombinationen aus Metall und Zyl sowie Holz und 24-karätiges Gold sind Zeichen, die wir gesetzt haben und auch weiter setzen werden. Die Highlights dieser Saison sind die Fassungen Monterey, Miranda und Hiro. Die japanische Technologie ist noch immer die Fortgeschrittenste, dennoch freue ich mich, anzukündigen, dass ein beachtlicher Teil meiner Kollektion jetzt erstmalig in den USA gefertigt wurde. In Kürze finden Sie eine neue Kollektion unter ‘Sama LA’.“ Diese Sama ist nicht für Mode-Geeks Mit Sonnenbrillenmodellen auf dem zweiten und dritten Rang der „Top 15 der teuersten Brillen der Welt 2014“ wendet sich Sama an einen ganz besonderen Zielmarkt: „an wirklich stilvolle Leute, die normalerweise keinen Trends hinterherlaufen“, wie Sheila Vance es ausdrückt. Dieses Target reicht von Königsfamilien bis hin zu anderen hochkarätigen Persönlichkeiten, die maßgefertigte Couture-Ausführungen zu Preisen von bis zu 100.000 Dollar beauftragen. „Zweifellos sind die Designs und Stile von Sama Eyewear nicht für jedermann. Diese Kunden sind Individuen, die selbst Trends schaffen und sich mit Objekten schmücken wollen, die sie selbst entdeckt haben. Für sie zählt nicht der Name Sama, vielmehr sind Handwerkskunst, Materialien, Details und Technologie die Kriterien für die Wahl des bevorzugten Shops“, fasst Sheila Vance zusammen. Engagement für die Zukunft Im Verlauf der Jahre hat sich Sama Eyewear einigen Herausforderungen gestellt, angefangen damit, dass an der Spitze des Unternehmens eine Frau steht, berichtet Sheila Vance. „Ich glaube, dass es leider auch heute noch eine große Herausforderung darstellt, sich als Frau in dieser Position zu behaupten. Ich hatte einige Probleme damit, als Geschäftsführerin in einer vorwiegend von Männern geführten Branche ernst genommen zu werden, aber unser Produkt hob sich ab und erlangte Aufmerksamkeit. Und als unsere Brillenfassungen erst einmal im Mittelpunkt standen, änderten sich die Dinge.“ Dank ihrer Leidenschaft für Design erwarb sie Expertenwissen, mit dem sie sich auf diesem wettbewerbsintensiven Markt von der Masse abhob und das für Sama den Weg zum Erfolg ebnete. Für die Zukunft ist nichts anderes zu erwarten als Engagement. „Ich habe mich schon immer vom Design leiten lassen, sei es Kunst, Mode oder Architektur. Bereits am Anfang meiner Laufbahn im Einzelhandel wurde mir klar, dass ein Mangel an echtem Fashion-Design und moderner Technologie besteht, und so begann ich, mich mit neuen Design-Verfahren zu beschäftigen. Auf meinem Weg habe ich einige großartige (männliche) Mentoren, Freunde und Partner gefunden und ich hoffe, weltweit mit noch mehr Top Level-Branchenführern zusammenzuarbeiten, wenn ich weiter expandiere. Es ist nicht immer leicht, aber es sind die Herausforderungen des Lebens, die mich dazu gebracht haben, mich immer mehr zu engagieren. Ich kann meine Richtung ändern, aber ich gebe nie auf“, beschwört die Geschäftsführerin von Sama Eyewear.

FROM SAMA EYEWEAR… WITH LOVE

Es gibt nicht viele Frauen an der Spitze von EyewearUnternehmen, aber Sheila Vance setzt sich eben gern über Standards hinweg. Die Designerin mit fast dreißig Jahren Berufserfahrung in der Eyewear-Branche gründete Sama Eyewear, die Stiftung Sam Vance Foundation und hat schon einige Auszeichnungen erobert, stets motiviert von ihrer Leidenschaft von Isabel Pereira

heila Vance ist die Gründerin von Sama Eyewear, einem in West Hollywood ansässigen Unternehmen, das sie selbst als „das weltbeste und exklusivste Luxusbrillen-Modeunternehmen“ definiert. Das mag sich etwas übertrieben anhören, aber das Ergebnis entspricht allen Erwartungen. „Sama gibt es noch keine 20 Jahre, aber ich bin seit 1986 auf dem Markt tätig und daher die etablierteste Designerin und Herstellerin von Eyewear des Luxus-Segments. Die Menschen und ganz besonders meine geschätzten Kundinnen und Kunden vertrauen mir, weil sie wissen, dass ich mit Sama ein Produkt liefere, das sich durch Qualität, Integrität und durchdachtes Design auszeichnet. Schließlich blicken wir auf eine gemeinsame Tradition, Erfolgsgeschichte und auf gemeinsame Erinnerungen zurück. Wir sind zu einer Familie zusammengewachsen. Sama ist für meine Kunden wie ein Zuhause, sie müssen sich nicht sorgen und kein Risiko eingehen. Es geht vor allem darum, sich wohlzufühlen und zu vertrauen“, sagt Sheila Vance mit größter Zuversicht. Das in den Neunzigern gegründete Unternehmen Sama Eyewear positioniert sich auf dem Weltmarkt der Brillenmode praktisch konkurrenzlos, gelenkt von „echter Fashion, vorausschauenden Designs und der Nutzung von Technologie“, sowie, nicht zu vergessen, den Menschen, die bei Sama arbeiten, wie Sheila Vance erklärt. „Ich glaube wirklich, dass Sama an sich keine direkte Konkurrenz hat und auch keine haben wird, weil ich mich nicht darum sorgen muss, wer welche Designs kreiert und wie sich die Mode entwickelt. Ich kreiere Styles mit Innovation, Technologie und Design-Elementen, die mitunter so fortschrittlich sind, dass sie von der Branche erst mehrere Saisons später verstanden werden. Was den Unterschied ausmacht, ist die Kombination aus meinen Kollektionen und den Menschen, die Spitzenqualität mit Spitzentalent verschmelzen lässt. Diese Kombination ist eine Art magischer Mix. Die Neuerscheinungen 2013/2014 beispielsweise haben in puncto Kreativität und Handwerkskunst alle Erwartungen übertroffen.“ „Die Seele und die Basis unseres Geschäfts ist der Mensch“ Die Geschäftskultur von Sama basiert auch auf einem anderen Konzept als dem rein kommerziellen. Das Streben, anderen zu helfen scheint der größte Vorzug und das Alleinstellungsmerkmal des Unternehmens zu sein. „Wenn wir auch heute noch nicht begriffen haben, dass es vor allem um Liebe geht, dann wird das Chaos nie verschwinden. Ich glaube nicht an ein Leben, in dem es darum geht, allein eine ‚Leiter hinaufzusteigen’. Entweder wir steigen gemeinsam hinauf oder ich bleibe wo ich bin, bis es soweit ist. Zorn und Neid zwischen Menschen müssen sich in Liebe und Umsicht verwandeln. Die Zukunft der Jugend ist gefährdet und ich will nicht einfach zusehen, sondern ich wünsche mir eine Lösung. Unser Motto ist: Du kannst gut aussehen, Gutes tun und dich gut fühlen. Und das verschafft uns einen Vorteil gegenüber anderen Unternehmen“, erklärt Sheila. Kohärent mit dieser Sichtweise ist Sama Eyewear eng mit der Stiftung Sam Vance Foundation verbunden, die seit ihrer Gründung 1997 das gleiche Hauptziel verfolgt. „Ich habe meinen einzigen Sohn verloren, aber ich habe nicht vergessen, wie es ist, Mutter zu sein. Für mich sind alle Kinder unsere Kinder und wir müssen um ihre Zukunft kämpfen. Sama ist der Existenzgrund für die Sam Vance Foundation“. So begründet Sheila, dass Sama Eyewear einen Teil seines jährlichen Nettoertrags der Sam Vance Foundation spendet, deren Antidrogen-Unterstützung sich vielen anderen humanitären Institutionen anschließt, und warum das Hauptanliegen von Sama Eyewear auch im Jahr 2015 das gleiche bleiben wird. „Es macht mich schlaflos, zu wissen, dass der Kinderhandel heute schlimmer ist als je zuvor. Und ich versuche verzweifelt, mit den richtigen Verbündeten gegen diesen teuflischen Akt anzukämpfen“, verrät Sheila Vance. Und wenn sie das tut, zählt es zu den bemerkenswertesten

DER UNWIDERSTEHLICHE CHARME DES MADE IN GERMANY

Eine für Qualität und Zuverlässigkeit bekannte Tradition trifft auf die Kühnheit und Kreativität von Marken, die mittlerweile zum Kult geworden sind von Alessandra Albarello

enn man von deutschen Unternehmen spricht, denkt man sofort an einen ganz besonderen Abend zu Beginn der Neunziger. Cazal präsentierte seine Brille Journalisten

german version

und Kunden und wählte dafür eine futuristische Atmosphäre sowie eine Location, die dem Film Star Wars würdig gewesen wäre. Auch seine Brillen waren futuristisch, in einem Ausmaß, dass sie auch heute noch unter Vintage-Liebhabern im Netz äußerst begehrt sind und zu astronomischen Preisen verkauft werden, um im Thema zu bleiben. Damals hatte Cari Zalloni, der legendäre Designer mit griechischen Wurzeln, die Marke geschaffen und erwies ihr die Ehre, selbst Testimonial der eigenen Kreationen zu sein, die er fast immer trug. Heute ist er nicht mehr unter uns, aber der Mythos dieser Marke, die sich dank ihrer Originalität seit den 1970er Jahren auf dem internationalen Markt behauptet hatte, lebt weiter. Mit ihr entkräftete er alle Stereotypen im Hinblick auf Brillen Made in Germany, die bis zu jener Zeit zweifellos als solide und sehr zuverlässig galten (ein unangreifbares Bollwerk), aber aus ästhetischer Sicht hier und da etwas zu wünschen übrig ließen. So ist es mitnichten ein Zufall, dass Cazal auch heute noch die gleichen Modelle anbietet, die nicht nur die Geschichte des Unternehmens sondern auch die der gesamten zeitgenössischen Brillenmode geschrieben haben, wie das Modell 644, das erstmalig 1991 auf den Markt kam. Das Made in Germany gilt seit jeher als Garantiesiegel für Qualität, Zuverlässigkeit und Widerstandsfähigkeit. Im Verlauf der Jahre wurde dieser solide Grundstein der Glaubwürdigkeit auch um andere, kreative, Faktoren erweitert, die eine Reihe unbestreitbar avantgardistischer Marken hervorgebracht haben. Design und Glamour Einer der ersten Designer überhaupt, der den Namen des Designs Made in Germany zum Gipfel führte, war mit Sicherheit Wolfgang Proksch, dessen heutige Marke ByWP (WP nach den Initialen seines Namens), von Modeliebhabern auf der ganzen Welt hoch geschätzt wird. Die Brillen von ByWP, bereichert um das technische Detail des integrierten Scharniers, sind aus extrafeinem Edelstahl und Acetat gefertigt, inspirieren sich an legendären Vintage-Formen und sind vorwiegend Semi-RimlessModelle oder kombinierte Designs. Ebenfalls nicht vergessen darf man Ralph Anderl, der Mitte der Neunziger die Marke IC!Berlin gründete. Er schuf, ausgehend vom Know-how über technologische Innovation eine neuartige Verbindung zwischen Fassung und Bügeln, dank der auf Schrauben und Lötstellen komplett verzichtet werden konnte. Diese Eigenschaft, gemeinsam mit der Leichtigkeit der Brillen, wurde zum unverwechselbaren Zeichen des Unternehmens, das sich für die Frühjahrs- und Sommersaison 2015 mit besonderen, stofflichen Effekten an der Natur inspiriert. Eine weitere Kultmarke ist Mykita. Ihr gelang es, sich innerhalb von 10 Jahren auf dem Markt zu etablieren, mit mutigen Designs und konstanter Forschungsarbeit, und sie bietet einen holistischen Rundumblick auf die Welt der Brillenmode. So wagte sich das Unternehmen an ungewöhnliche Formen und Materialien und präsentierte Neuheiten wie das wunderbare Mylon, das leicht, eklektisch und leistungsstark ist und sich ideal für Hybrid-Modelle eignet, die sowohl beim Sport als auch in der Freizeit getragen werden können. Der Tatendrang des Unternehmens brachte ferner verschiedene Synergien, auch mit der Modewelt, hervor, wie zum Beispiel die Kooperation mit der Maison Martin Margiela für eine Brillenkollektion, die vollständig auf die Philosophie der Kleidung und Accessoires des Modehauses abgestimmt war. Abgerundet wird die Erfolgsgeschichte dieser Marke durch eine Reihe eigener Markengeschäfte und den jüngsten Umzug des Unternehmens in eine größere Niederlassung in Berlin Kreuzberg. Schon immer auf Mode und Design gesetzt hat auch die Marke Lunettes Kollection, die Brillenfassungen mit starker Persönlichkeit und Bezügen zur Vergangenheit kreiert und diesen außerdem einen kunsthandwerklichen Akzent verleiht, der momentan als wichtiger und unverzichtbarer Wert gilt. Auffällige Volumen, entschlossene, mutige Formen und fast ein Überfluss an Modellikonen aus der Vergangenheit sind heute ein fester Bestandteil der kollektiven Vorstellungswelt. So ist es auch kein Zufall, dass das in Berlin ansässige Unternehmen oft mit jungen, aufstrebenden Designern wie Louise Gray, James Long, Odeeh, Christopher Shannon und Michael Van Der Ham zusammenarbeitet. Ein Dialog zwischen Vergangenheit und Gegenwart Die Neuinterpretation der Vergangenheit in einem zeitgenössischen Stil (aber ganz ohne Nostalgie) mit Hilfe neuer Materialien und Volumen ist eine der wichtigsten Tendenzen der kommenden Frühjahrs- und Sommersaison 2015. Auf diesen Aspekt setzt auch Anderne, eine junge, im Jahr 2013 entstandene Marke, die jedoch jetzt schon dabei ist, sich mit einer starken, entschlossenen Persönlichkeit auf dem Markt zu

etablieren. Die Philosophie der Marke wohnt bereits ihrem Namen inne, der Kompaktform von Another Moderne, mit eindeutiger Bezugnahme auf die Kunst- und Architekturströmung der Dreißigerjahre. Anderne nimmt die Vintage-Formen der Gletscher- und Pilotenbrillen wieder auf und verwendet die für jene Zeit typischen, platten Gläser sowie seitliche Abschirmungen. Im Vordergrund stehen Camouflage- und Militärfarben, die Materialien haben oft einen Used-Effekt. Das heißt, es gibt einerseits Marken, die über die Tradition hinausgegangen sind und die sich im internationalen Panorama mit einem definitiv einzigartigen, glamourösen, modernen Stil mit hohem Wiedererkennungswert etabliert haben, und andererseits traditionsreiche Unternehmen, die hingegen einen klassischeren Weg gewählt haben und ihre Recherche, natürlich auf dem Gebiet der Optik, auf andere Sektoren ausweiten. Ein solches Unternehmen ist Rodenstock, das 1877 gegründet wurde und auch stark auf Linsen- und Beschichtungstechnik setzt. Somit bietet es ein Komplettprodukt mit hoher technischer Performance, das allen Anforderungen sowohl des Endkunden als auch des Optikers gerecht wird. Einen völlig anderen Weg hat Hoffmann Natural Eyewear gewählt. Dieses 1978 gegründete Unternehmen verwendet, wie man bereits dem Namen entnehmen kann, für seine Brillenfassungen nur Naturmaterialien wie Horn, Holz und Schiefer. Das Konzept von Hoffmann fügt sich auch in einen heutigen Trend ein, der das sehr aktuelle Thema der ökologischen Nachhhaltigkeit im Vordergrund sieht. So wird die Ethik zum untrennbaren Bestandteil der Ästhetik. Die exklusiven Kreationen, die die Schönheit und Perfektion der Naturmaterialien auch mit extravaganten Farben unterstreichen, werden aus Horn asiatischer Wasserbüffel hergestellt. Aber da es sich hierbei um eine geschützte Art handelt, verwendet das Unternehmen nur das Material der Hörner, die die Tiere während des natürlichen Hörnerwechsels verlieren. Jedes Modell ist ein Einzelstück und muss regelmäßig mit einer eigens von Hoffmann gelieferten Paste behandelt werden, damit die ursprünglichen Eigenschaften erhalten bleiben. Auf diese Weise wird die Brille zu einem sprichwörtlichen Schmuckstück. Made in Germany, of course!

MARKUS T BLICK IN EIN DEUTSCHES „HANDMADE“UNTERNEHMEN IN WESTFALEN

Extrem leichte Gläser, hoher Tragekomfort und innovative Technologie. 100% Handmade in Germany. Das waren die Features der ersten Kollektion „Design“, mit der Markus T bekannt wurde. Bald folgten die ersten Design-Preise und dieser Erfolg legte den Grundstein für weitere Kollektionen und neue technische Lösungen. Aber eigentlich war die Geburt dieser Eyewear-Marke gar nicht geplant. von Isabel Pereira

„I

ch habe mich schon immer für Design und Technologie interessiert. Aber mir war nie ganz klar, in welchem Beruf ich diese zwei Interessen miteinander verbinden könnte. Dann kam ich eher durch Zufall zur Optik. Schon während meiner Ausbildung hatte ich das Gefühl, dass es doch wesentlich bessere technische Lösungen und formschönere Rahmen geben könnte. Aber erst, nachdem ich mich selbstständig gemacht hatte, konnte ich diese Ideen in die Praxis umsetzen. Gemeinsam mit diesem Entschluss wählte ich auch Westfalen zu meinem Standort“, erinnert sich Markus Temming, Gründer der Brillenmarke Markus T. Dinge, die sich nicht ändern und Dinge die es doch tun Die Erfolgsstory begann vor 15 Jahren und seitdem hat sich nur ein Aspekt nicht geändert: „Die Entwicklung von Brillen auf der Grundlage technologischer Ideen und Innovationen“. Markus Temming erklärt: „Dies ist unser Erfolgsrezept und das, was uns einzigartig macht. Ich suche immer nach der perfekten Lösung für alles - so bin ich eben. Und diese Denkweise ist auch der Motor moderner Technik. Erst vor Kurzem haben wir ein Verfahren

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entwickelt und zum Patent angemeldet, das die Beschichtung von Titan revolutionieren wird. Mit diesem Verfahren können wir unsere Brillengestelle in Räumen färben.“ Markus T ist alles andere als eine „schrille“ Marke. Erst seit jüngster Zeit achtet das Unternehmen etwas mehr auf den Nutzen von Marketing und plant, in einige neue Märkte zu expandieren. „Wir haben die Möglichkeit genutzt, unser Marketing allmählich aufzubauen und zu verstärken. Als Ergebnis können wir eine ausgewogene Mischung aus Beidem vorweisen, auch weil wir planen, uns auf Märkten zu etablieren, die wir noch nicht erobert haben“, verrät Temming. Das Konzept, von Anfang an auf die Stärke des Produktes selbst, also das „100% Handmade in Germany“, zu setzen, scheint sich nun als Vorteil zu erweisen. „Hinter dem Konzept '100% Handmade in Germany’ habe ich immer voll gestanden. Die Tatsache, dass wir zu den letzten Herstellern von Brillengestellen zählen, die ihre gesamte Produktion in Deutschland haben und obendrein ein Unternehmen sind, das seit seiner Gründung von seinem Eigentümer persönlich geführt wird, macht den Wert unserer Gestelle für die Kunden nachvollziehbar. Wir sind transparent und wir zeigen reale Menschen, die mit uns arbeiten. Damit weichen wir vom Trend ab, aber es fühlt sich richtig an“, sagt Markus Temming stolz. Neben dem Ziel, einen Produktwert zu schaffen, bietet dieses deutsche Nationalkonzept auch Flexibilität. „Allem voran haben wir die Möglichkeit, Technologie selbst zu bauen, ohne auf Standardlösungen zurückgreifen zu müssen. Kurze Wege sind ein großer Vorteil in diesem Fall. Standardlösungen führen oftmals dazu, dass man Dinge erfindet, die es längst gibt. Was unsere Brillenfassungen so einzigartig macht, ist die Tatsache, dass wir stets nach neuen Lösungen suchen.“, fügt Temming hinzu. Was ist neu? Der Erfolg von Markus T und die Kreativität für das Jahr 2015 erstreckt sich über neue und alte Kollektionen, die im Januar auf der Fachmesse Opti in München präsentiert werden, wie Markus Temming berichtet. „Dort werden nicht nur bestehende Markus T-Kollektionen in neuen Formen und Farben zu sehen sein, sondern anlässlich des 15. Jubiläums der Erstkollektion Design wird diese in einem völlig neuen Look präsentiert. Es war eine große und aufregende Herausforderung, diese Kollektion, die inzwischen ein echter Klassiker ist und sich seit 15 Jahren erfolgreich verkauft, vollkommen umzugestalten. Natürlich konnten wir die Essenz der Kollektion nicht ändern, aber es war eine Aufgabe, die mir wirklich sehr viel Spaß gemacht hat.“ Für die Zukunft plant Markus Temming, wie er berichtet, den Kauf einer alten Brauerei. „Wir sind dabei, einen weiteren großen Schritt in die Richtung unserer Vision '100% Handmade in Germany' zu wagen, den Kauf einer alten Brauerei, wo wir viel Platz für unsere einfallsreichen Köpfe, unsere neuen Technologien und unsere Kreativität haben werden. Den denkmalgeschützten Bau zu neuem Leben zu erwecken, ist eine große Herausforderung, aber auch eine aufregende Aufgabe für mich. So bringen wir nach und nach möglichst viele Produktionsprozesse unter unser eigenes Dach. Dieser Ort ist das perfekte neue Zuhause für unsere Manufaktur. Wir möchten diese Idee der Manufaktur auf ganz besondere Weise aufleben lassen und unseren Kunden eine klare Vorstellung von dem geben, was wir tun.“, verrät Temming. Und trotz der großen Pläne wird im „deutschen Haus“ eins immer gleich bleiben - die soziale Verantwortung. Markus Temming vertritt die Ansicht, dass jeder Einzelne soziale Verantwortung übernehmen sollte. „Jeder sollte sich fragen: ‚Was kann ich persönlich tun?' Auf diese Weise findet man immer etwas, das man ändern kann, auch wenn es nur Kleinigkeiten sind. Für ein Unternehmen ist im Voraus gezeigtes soziales Engagement kurzfristig nicht finanziell rentabel. Indirekt aber schon. Bei Markus T gibt es dafür viele Beweise. Wir beschäftigen zum Beispiel hauptsächlich Frauen. Daher hat die Frage, wie sich Beruf und Familie vereinbaren lassen, allerhöchste Priorität. Wir haben kreative Lösungen gefunden, die in der Vergangenheit ausgezeichnet wurden, und die vielen kleinen Erfolgsgeschichten in unserem Unternehmen zeigen, dass sich soziale Verantwortung sehr wohl auszahlt.“, sagt er.

ROLF SPECTACLES UNSERE MISSION: NEUE TRENDS SCHAFFEN Das kleine Unternehmen aus den Tiroler Alpen produziert elegante und innovative, handgefertigte Brillenfassungen aus natürlichen Materialien. Vor allem mit einem Ziel vor Augen neue Ideen umzusetzen. Ein Interview mit Roland Wolf, CEO von ROLF Spectacles von Nicoletta Tobia

ann und wie haben Sie sich erstmalig auf dem Markt der Eyewear präsentiert? Wie weit war der Weg vom ersten Prototyp bis zu Ihren neuesten Designs? Roland Wolf: Die Story von ROLF Spectacles begann vor über fünf Jahren im Keller unseres Elternhauses. Hier entstanden die ersten Prototypen, die wir im Januar 2009 auf der Opti in München präsentierten. Im September 2009 folgte die erste Auszeichnung - der Silmo d’Or Award - nur wenige Monate nach der Markteinführung. Zum 5. Jubiläum des Bestehens von ROLF Spectacles haben wir 2014 unsere neue „Evolved Collection“ herausgebracht, mit neuen Designs, neuen Holzkombinationen sowie Modellen aus Stein. Die neueste Erweiterung unserer Kollektion fasst praktisch fünf Jahre EyewearDesign zusammen. Holz, reines Horn, Stein: Ihre Spezialisierung besteht in der Verarbeitung von Naturmaterialien. Welche Gründe stehen hauptsächlich hinter dieser Entscheidung? RW: Begonnen haben wir mit Holz, weil wir Brillenfassungen aus natürlichen Materialien herstellen wollten und weil wir mit diesem Material sowie den Maschinen und Werkzeugen für dessen Bearbeitung vertraut waren. Daher fiel die Entscheidung leicht. Im Verlauf der Zeit wollten wir dann neue Trends schaffen sowie neue Materialien finden und so kam die Idee, Holz mit Stein zu kombinieren. Das gleiche gilt für Horn und unsere jüngste Innovation PureHORN aus reinem Horn. Wie positioniert sich das Material Holz auf dem heutigen Optikmarkt? Könnte man es als Trend bezeichnen? RW: Wir können nur für uns selbst sprechen und glauben, dass Holz über jeden Modetrend erhaben ist. Es ist ein Material, das seit Jahrhunderten für die verschiedensten Zwecke genutzt wird. Auf dem Optikmarkt ist Eyewear aus Holz auf jeden Fall ein Nischenprodukt. Mit unseren Brillenfassungen aus Naturmaterial bedienen wir aber nicht nur eine Marktnische, sondern auch ein Luxus-Segment und wenn es ein Trend sein sollte, dann könnte es möglicherweise einer sein, der sich auch in den kommenden Jahren halten wird. Was ist, aus stilistischer Sicht, mit Holz möglich und was nicht? Welche sind die größten technischen „Herausforderungen“, denen Sie sich bei der Arbeit mit Holz stellen müssen? RW: Holz ist ein homogenes Naturmaterial. Viele Aspekte hängen von der Art und Struktur des jeweiligen Holzes ab, aber dank eben dieser Struktur und Textur ist auch jede Brillenfassung ein absolutes Einzelstück, was die Arbeit mit Holz so spannend macht. Herausforderungen, vor die uns das Material stellt, haben wir gemeistert, indem wir ein einzigartiges Scharnier, ebenfalls aus Holz, sowie ein spezielles Verglasungssystem entwickelt haben, das es gestattet, dünne und sehr leichte, elegante Brillenfassungen zu produzieren. Woher nehmen Sie die Inspiration für neue Designs? RW: Die Designs inspirieren sich an Oldtimern. Marija „Mary“ Iljazovic, Mitgründerin und Designerin in unserem Team, holt sich ihre Inspiration aus alten Automagazinen, aber auch aus der Natur, wo sie mit ihren Pferden und Hunden gern Zeit verbringt, wenn es die Arbeit gestattet. Wie viele Personen sind am Design-Prozess für Ihre Kollektionen beteiligt? RW: Noch sind wir ein kleines Familienunternehmen und insbesondere das Design überlassen wir hauptsächlich Mary. Sie folgt dem gesamten Prozess von der Idee, über den Entwurf bis hin

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Position der Gläser im Verhältnis zu den Augen wird vom Raumwinkel beeinflusst. Außerdem besteht die Gefahr einer Verzerrung, was zum Beispiel unerwünschte Prismen- oder Stärkeeffekte zur Folge haben kann. Auch in den Randbereichen des Sehfeldes kann es zu Verzerrungen kommen. Unser visuelles System wird von der peripheren Netzhaut gesteuert. Bei Sportarten wie Tennis oder Squash ist es natürlich besonders wichtig, die Ballstrecke verfolgen zu können. Große, gewölbte Brillengläser können den Fokus beeinträchtigen. Eine Linsenoberfläche, die hingegen optimal der Augendrehung folgt, kann diese Abweichungen verhindern. Die Freiform-Designtechnologie trägt dazu bei, die Schärfe und den Prismenausgleich zu verbessern. Hierfür führen Optometristen und Optiker zahlreiche Detailmessungen durch, wie die Position eines jeden Auges, den Abstand von der Nase, die Winkelstellung usw. Um auf der Grundlage dieser Daten optimale Linsen zu realisieren, nehmen die Linsenhersteller jedoch eine Umrechnung vor. Ein Computer berechnet die Leistung der Linsen an mehr als 1.000 Stellen, um die perfekte Form und Wölbung zu erzielen, damit die Athleten jederzeit ihr Bestes geben können. Welche Rolle spielt das binokulare Sehen im Sport? GG: Im Alltag ist die Abstimmung zwischen beiden Augen in der Regel zweitrangig. Im Sport hingegen ist es für die Bestimmung der Korrekturgläser wichtig zu wissen, welches das dominante Auge ist. Studienergebnisse zeigten beispielsweise, dass ein Tontaubenschütze, dessen rechtes Auge das dominante ist und gleichzeitig eine positive Abweichung der Sehstärke aufweist, sein Ziel wahrscheinlich an der rechten Seite trifft, wenn das Gewehr auf seiner rechten Schulter liegt. In vielen Fällen ist ein Prisma für das nicht dominante Auge ausreichend, um diesen Effekt zu korrigieren. Die Augendominanz ist aber auch für die wichtigsten Sehfähigkeiten von Bedeutung, wenn es beim Sport um das Zielen oder Vorgreifen geht. Gezielt wird grundsätzlich mit dem dominanten Auge, das die Position der Objekte bestimmt. Aber auch zum Vorwegnehmen, Fangen oder Ausweichen wird eine gute Tiefenwahrnehmung benötigt. Damit können Entfernungen und Geschwindigkeiten abgeschätzt werden. Daher ist es sehr wichtig, dass Optometristen und Optiker dies berücksichtigen und in ihre Beratung zur Wahl einer Sehhilfe einbeziehen. Letztendlich könnte es über Sieg oder Niederlage entscheiden, über einen perfekt geschlagenen Ball oder ein brillantes Match. Wie beeinflussen kontrastverstärkende Tönungen die Leistung? GG: Studien zufolge gewährleistet das klassische SonnenbrillenBraun nicht immer den besten Kontrast. Das heißt, nicht alle Details sind immer ausreichend sichtbar. Ist der Filter nicht auf die Eigenschaften der Augen, die Witterungsverhältnisse und die Umgebung abgestimmt, können Dunsteffekte im Hintergrund den Athleten ablenken. Das Auge empfängt weniger Lichtinformationen und dies kann sich negativ auf die Leistung auswirken. Mit Hilfe von Spezialtests kann die optimale Tönungsfarbe, ob Grün, Orange, Gelb, Braun, Kupfer oder Violett, individuell bestimmt werden, einschließlich der besten Farbdichte für spezifische Disziplinen, für Hallensport oder Sport im Freien. Wie wichtig ist das Material der Linsen? GG: Wie bereits erwähnt, ist der Schutz der Augen einer der Gründe, aus dem Sportler Wrap-up-Modelle wählen. Neben der Schlagbeständigkeit sind aber auch die Eigenschaften der Lichtbrechung von Bedeutung. Das Material PNX von Trivex wird beiden Anforderungen gerecht. Es ist ein dünnes und dennoch widerstandsfähiges Material, das sich außerdem hervorragend für Freiform-Technologie eignet. Und mit einer hochwertigen Beschichtung kann der Komfort zusätzlich erhöht werden. Dies gewährleistet Extraschutz vor Kratzern, Staub, Spritzwasser und allen Blendeffekten des einfallenden Lichts. Hoya Hi-Vision LongLife UV Control ist die beste derzeit auf dem Markt erhältliche Beschichtung mit 100% UV-Schutz (sowohl an der Vorderseite als auch an der Rückseite der Gläser). Auf diese Weise können sich Sportlerinnen und Sportler auf sichere, klare Sicht mit gleichzeitig höchstem Tragekomfort verlassen und sich voll auf ihre sportliche Leistung konzentrieren.

zur Produktionsplanung, im Grunde ist das Ganze eine Art OneWoman-Show. Da wir alles, von der Planung über das Design bis hin zur Produktion, direkt in unserer Manufaktur in den Tiroler Alpen abwickeln, ist es immer sehr spannend zu sehen, wie sich die Ideen innerhalb kurzer Zeit zu echten Brillenfassungen materialisieren. An welchen Produktneuentwicklungen arbeiten Sie gerade? RW: Das kann ich nicht verraten, nur so viel: Wir sind dafür berühmt, dass wir konstant Neues schaffen. Im Moment liegt der Fokus auf der Entwicklung unserer neuen „Evolved Collection“. Handwerkliches Geschick, Innovation, Tradition, Forschung ... Welche Schlüsselwörter würden Sie für Ihre Produktion wählen? Und wie stark ist der Bezug zu Ihrer Heimatregion? RW: Die Schlüsselwörter sind vor allem Handwerkskunst, Leidenschaft und Stärke, Liebe fürs Detail und Innovation. Wir sind in den Tiroler Alpen, wo wir aufgewachsen sind, tief verwurzelt, dennoch wagen wir uns auch gern hinaus und arbeiten auf internationaler Ebene. Wir haben einen guten Weg gefunden, Tradition und Innovation miteinander zu verbinden. Und es gibt noch etwas, das uns einzigartig macht - die Tatsache, dass wir „mehr als nur Brillen“ kreieren, da wir nicht nur die Fassungen intern herstellen, sondern auch unsere Brillenetuis, Musterhalter, Aufsteller und Messestandausstattung, um nur einige zu nennen.

HOYA SPORTS LENSES GESCHAFFEN FÜR DIE PERFEKTE PERFORMANCE

In den vergangenen Jahren zeigte der Bereich der Sportbrillen eine rasche Entwicklung. Im Vergleich zu „normalen“ (Sonnen)brillen bieten spezielle Sportbrillen erhebliche Vorteile. Sie schützen die Augen vor Schmutzspritzern, Staub, Wind, Kälte und schädlicher UV-Strahlung. Außerdem schützen sie auch vor einigen schwerwiegenderen Gefahren, wie zum Beispiel Schlägen von Squash-Bällen oder geschleuderten Kieselsteinen. Durch den Einsatz kontrastverstärkender Gläser garantieren Wrap-upBrillen ferner optimale Sicht. Wenn Athleten Brillenträger sind, garantieren Speziallinsen auch in diesem Fall beste Sicht aus allen Blickwinkeln. Und schließlich finden viele Sportbegeisterte Sportbrillen einfach cool. Spezielle Rahmen und Gläser tragen dazu bei, bestmögliche Ergebnisse zu erzielen, da sie optimale Sicht garantieren. In der Praxis hat diese Tendenz auch bei den Sportbrillen diverse Innovationen hervorgebracht. Der Experte für Sportoptik Geraint Griffiths MSc, MCOptom berichtet über die neuesten Entwicklungen auf diesem Gebiet. von Petrick Konig

elche Anforderungen werden an Gläser für Sportbrillen gestellt? Geraint Griffiths: Wrap-up-Gestelle bieten Sportlern diverse Vorzüge. Umschließende Rahmen bieten einerseits Schutz und andererseits gute Sicht in alle Richtungen. Ein Rahmen, der sich der Gesichtskontur anpasst, stellt jedoch besondere Anforderungen an die Gläser. Umschließende High-Base Korrekturgläser müssen in der Lage sein, die Korrekturwirkung bei der Sportbrille effizient umzusetzen. Denn natürlich wollen die Athleten aus allen Blickwinkeln klar und kontrastreich sehen. Welche Herausforderungen birgt die Entwicklung von Wrap-upGestellen? GG: Standardgläser passen nicht gut in gewölbte Rahmen. Die 64

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