Table of content
01 ................ Choosing a designer 02 ................ Top 4 collections 03 ............... Krakoff introduction 04 ............... Krakoff Design DNA 05 ............... Krakoff Target Group 06 ............... Krakoff Collection plans 07 ............... Sacai Introduction 08 ............... Sacai Design DNA 09 ............... Sacai Target Group 10 ............... Sacai Collection plans 11 ............... Trend - Pre Fall/Autumn 2014 12 ............... Krakoff Inspiration 13 ............... Sacai Inspiration 14 ............... Krakoff Line-up 15 ............... Krakoff Spec drawings 16 ............... Sacai Line-up 17 ............... Sacai Spec drawings
TREND Comfort Nomad
Reed Krakoff vs. Sacai Luck
Margareta Sopkova - Collection development - 4th semester - TEKO 186226@viauc.dk teachers- Maj-Britt Jorgensen, Annemette Oxlund
01 Choosing a designer
I have chosen to work with Reed Krakoff and Sacai Luck. These brands represent different countries, styles and trends. Krakoff is a New York based label, it is elegant and minimalistic while Sacai, based in Japan, symbolize more playful and edgy European fashion. Sacai develops womenswear and menswear collections two times a year, Krakoff 4 times a year complete womenswear. I think it is a great example on how can be the same trend unfolded and understood differently within these fashion cities and brands itself.
New York 1. Reed Krakoff 2. Philosophy by Natalie Ratabesi
New York 1. Reed Krakoff
New York 1. Reed Krakoff
Paris 3.Carven 4.Isabel Marant 5. Alexis Mabille 6. Moon Young Hee 7. Cedric Charlier 8. ACNE 9. Sacai 10. Belstaff 11. Amanda Wakeley 12. Richards Nicoli 13. Aigner 14. Aganovich 15. Akris 16. Ann Demeulemeester 17. Gareth Pugh
Paris
Paris
London 18. Bora Aksu 19. Eudon Choi 20 Fashion East - Helen Lawrence 21. Marios Schwab 22. Mary Katrantzou 23. Osman 24. Paul Smith
London 18. Bora Aksu 19. Eudon Choi
6. Moon Young Hee 7. Cedric Charlier 8. ACNE 9. Sacai
7. Cedric Charlier 9. Sacai
14. Aganovich 16. Ann Demeulemeester
21. Marios Schwab 24. Paul Smith
London 19. Eudon Choi
Reed Krakoff Resort, Spring, Pre-Fall, Fall
Cedric Charlier Resort, Spring, Pre-Fall, Fall
Sacai Luck Spring M & W, Fall, Fall M & W
Eudon Choi Spring/Summer, Autumn/Winter
03
Reed Krakoff Introduction
His label creates somewhat a link between American simplistic and European edgy clothing.
Reed Krakoff is recognized in fashion industry as vice president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from 2006 to 2010. Krakoff studied at Parsons School of Design and had previously worked with Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger and until 2013 worked for Coach. Krakoff has also been honored as CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year three times, most recently for 2012 collection of his self-titled company Reed Krakoff, launched in 2010.
Reed Krakoff is a photographer, passionate collector, artist and mainly fashion designer and creative director of his recently launched company. Krakoff mission is to redefine American sportswear, combining his inherent design aesthetics with modern luxuries for the sensual and strong woman. His brand is an eye-catching label within American apparel. Krakoff creates a simplistic New-York-like clothing line underlined with contemporary beauty and luxury. .
Reed Krakoff Spring 2013
Reed Krakoff Resort 2012
Reed Krakoff Fall 2012
Reed Krakoff Pre Fall 2012
04 Design DNA Based upon collections: Resort 2012, Pre Fall 2012, Fall 2012, Spring 2013.
Prices
Materials cashmere, cotton, wool, cordovan leather, python skin, fur, sateen, silk
Bags (Totes, satchels, hobos, shoulder bags, clutches) -from $700.00 up to $5,000.00 Wallets, pouchettes, tech cases, hangtags, key fobs -from $60.00 up to $400.00 Shoes (boots, sandals, pumps, flats) -from $400.00 to $2,000.00 Ready-to-wear (outerwear, dresses, tops, knits, skirts, pants, accessories) -$1,000.00 to 5,000.00 Jewellery, watches, bracelets, earrings, ear cuffs, necklaces, rings -$200.00 to $2,500.00 Sunglasses -$275.00 Books -$95.00 to $375.00
Collections
Sizes
Womenswear, 4 times a year resort, spring, pre-fall, fall, ready to wear, acessories, bags, comprising of 20-40 outfits
-American – 02, 04, 06, 08, 10, 12 -European – 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 -Japanese – 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 28
Colors Pure, primary colors- beige, white, black, green, blue, red
Shops -5 main boutiques in NY, 3 boutiques in UK, small boutiques all around the US, Europe and Asia. - www.reedkrakoff.com
Inspiration Krakoff usually takes his inspiration from his wife, an interior designer, from the furniture he creates and from a daily life, utilitarian elements and women’s femininity and her functional needs.
“These pieces show how something can be modern, graphic, and architectural, “ Krakoff says,” and also have a romantic, feminine line.”
Product Reed Krakoff’s designs looks very relaxed, almost loose. They are very feminine, although they do not underline body curves. Trousers, dresses or pants usually hang down from the model’s hips and therefore appears to be meant for customer’s leisure time, however whole outfits are elegant and yet look a bit office-like. Silhouette is almost straight, with clean, and minimalistic inner cuttings with a hint of asymmetry.
User Krakoff’s customer is a woman that is practical, confident, looking for luxe, sensual and utilitarian clothes for her daily life. Accessories, especially bags and shoes, are the key. When creating, Krakoff has in mind his muse Delphine, his wife, an interior designer. Therefore his user is meant to be a bit sober, a bit artistic, a woman that want to be taken seriously, but needs to feel practical and sensual.
Krakoff uses a very few patterns. Collections are harmonious, simplistic, chic and relaxed, maybe also due to the primary colors used. Primary colors like white, black, skin tones beige, vivid red, Mondrian’s blue or grass green looks very fresh, sensible, luxe and modern. Choice of the materials is in tune of the luxe overview - leather, fur, cashmere, wool, cordovan leather or python skin – stealth luxury quality. All the products from ready-to-wear to bags that Krakoff is famous for, are perfectly tailored and fitted. The simplistic look is not even distracted by company’s logos or confusing prints.
Culture Reed creates clothes that fits elegant, upscale woman, inspired by American sportswear, offering a set of edgy yet tailored items. An emphasis is on materials and techniques combined with an architectural sensibility that he uses in both, fashion collections and in his art and design pieces.
The transparency Sheering fabrics used in layers underneath, above or in between the main garment line, creating a look of tights pulled on.
The biker’s jacket Krakoff spices up the classy and soft office look with a biker’s jacket (leather or chiffon)
The length Straight, flawy, simple skirts, dresses or coats are very often finished in knee or under knee lenght creating a classy, yet modern woman.
The mixed materials Mixin materials with different characteristics is very common. Sheering, fur, silk, chiffon, satin, leather or knitwear.
The office look Combination of tranquil pants with soft shirt and comfortable jacket creating a relaxed and sophisticated office look
The evening dress Not celebrational long evening dresses, relaxed, softly following the movement when walking and complimenting body curve.
G
TAR
ET ROUP
05
Chic, monochrome, self-conscious, smart, seductive, romantic and feminine, yet strong and soft.
Krakoff’s target group is an utilitarian woman, cool, grounded and downt-to-earth individual, that is ready for anything. She is pragmatic and functional, she likes basics and she is the fashion warrior.
Table of content Pre-Fall 2014 Product Categories Coats/jackets Skirts Dresses Trousers Shorts T-shirts Shirts Sweaters/jumpers
Base 1 1 2 -
Core 5 7 6 2 2 8 4
Profile 3 2 3 -
Total
Total 9 10 9 4 0 2 8 4 46
Table of content Pre-Fall 2012 Product Categories Coats/jackets Skirts Dresses Trousers Shorts T-shirts Shirts Sweaters/jumpers
06
Total
Collection plans
Base 1 1 4 -
Core 9 11 10 3 2 3 2
Profile 1 2 1 -
Total 11 12 12 7 0 2 4 2 50
07 Sacai Luck Introduction
Abe Chitose was preparing Sacai Luck since 1999. This Japanese based fashion designer presents her collection on Paris fashion week 2 times a year, as a womenswear and menswear. Abe started the brand as a knitwear focused label, while still working for Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe, one of the greatest
“ I dont have a specific person or culture in mind when creating. I believe fashion can be universal.�
Final launch in 2006 started as a lingerie collection slowly transforming into full-blown line. Abe is less concerned about creating new sillhouettes and more focused on having fun, creating playful and innovative designs. Abe creates freely, with no specific person or culture in mind. Her label does not differentiate between Japanese/Asian or Parisien/European style
Starting with a very little publicity Chitose grown her label into a strong brand known for finest quality knits, often used in unusual ways, combinations and fabrics, creating beautifully feminine pieces. .
08 Design DNA Based upon collections: Fall/Winter 2014, Spring/Summer 2014, Fall/Winter 2013.
Sacai Fall/Winter 2014
Sacai Spring/Summer 2014
Sacai Fall/Winter 2013
08 Design DNA Based upon collections: Fall/Winter 2014, Spring/Summer 2014, Fall/Winter 2013.
Shops Materials silk, wool, poplin, tweed, knit, dissecting traditional and familiar items and juxtaposing them with completely different elements to create a whole new item
Collections Womenswear and menswear, 2 times a year – spring/summer, fall/winter, ready-to-wear, comprising of 20-40 outfits
Colors
Prices ready-to-wear £100.00, to £1,200.00
Black, Mondrian’s blue, vivid red, white, green, grey, unexpected combinations and patterns
Sizes -XS, S, M, L, XL
- A-1F, 2F Minamiaoyama City House,5-4-44 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062 Japan - http://www.lagarconne.com, http://www.shopstyle.com, http://www.farfetch.com, http://www.polyvore.com …
Inspiration Sacai does not have a particular inspiration. She transforms what she sees on the streets of Japan into her design. However her inspiration is from Japan, she does not aim for a particular customer. Abe says, that she usually thinks about people's faces. What makes them interesting is that they are not symmetrical. The same, we can see in her models.
Product
User Even though Abe’s design seems to be a bit avant-garde, she always has in mind the functionality, and originality. All the garments are very quality tailored and therefore create a very strong emotional base for the customer, fulfilling hers/his practical need as well as the need to be different and unique.
Abe likes to combine unexpected. Either in material, shapes, or colors. Once she combines a traditional boucle jacket without sleeves with a silk blouse made with that matching boucle pattern. Other time, she made a dress that appears like a very simple rib-knit wool sweaterdress, but from the back is a poplin shirt with a wood-tweed miniskirt. The whole idea is to create a different sense of volume and shape by juxtaposing these different patterns and ideas. The outer silhouette is usually voluminous and layered with mixed, complicated inner lines, creating a second body silhouette. This is asymmetric and unique, even surprising – it differ from back and front. It is that kind of silhouette that should not work, but it does. Colors are also mixed to unexpected combinations and patterns, usually based on black, blue, white beige and green dull colors.
Culture Abe aims for a personality in four categories: the Trench, the Country Life, Sports, and the Biker. However her designs included a lot of knits from the beginning, the collection personality is developing a slightly different way. Lately it seems more grunge-like rather than country life.
The shape, 3D vs. 2D Sacai redefines silhouette by dividing graments to panels composed of different materials or colors. Very often used is a contrast between 2D and 3D shapes and items f.e. shirt with a pull-over look-like front, dress with a skirt look-alike skirt. Abe also likes to play with a bias-cut and assymmetry. Garments look like they are trying to follow the body silhouette but are usually pushed back underneath the layers and contrasting shapes.
The materials Materials used usually goes from fur, mesh, transparent chiffon, silk, knitwear or jacket insulation.
G
TAR
ET ROUP
09
“An independent minded woman who is drawn to interesting things. It’s not so much about their age or what they do as a profession.�
Abe Chitose never really designs with a specific person in mind. She believes that design can be appreciated universally. The woman that would be suitable for her clothes is, courageous, independent, utilitarian, pragmatic and yet a bit grungy and sticking out.
Table of content Fall 2014 Product Categories Coats Skirts Dresses Trousers Shorts T-shirts Shirts Sweaters/jumpers Knitwear(incl. mixed items)
Base -
Core 17 20 7 2 2 12 18
Profile 1 -
Total
Total 17 20 7 2 1 0 2 12 18 61
Table of content Fall 2013 Product Categories Coats Skirts Dresses Trousers Shorts T-shirts Shirts Sweaters/jumpers Knitwear(incl. mixed items)
10
Total
Collection plans
Base -
Core 23 16 7 7 10 13
Profile -
Total 23 16 7 7 0 0 0 10 13 63
11 TREND Comfort Nomad
Stylish urban nomad style of Autumn 2015 suggest to invest in just a few basic items. These can be layered, matched and re-matched. Fur, heavy knits and layering are the key elements for this trend. It predicts a return of maxi skirts with asymmetrical cardigans, hats and other layering elements. We have the possibility to dig into our old closet again and take layering to the whole different level. A modern nomad girl needs a jacket with atypical tailoring, generous volumes items, long cotton skirts, chunky knitted sweaters made of wool and urban jackets that can easily metamorphose through a simple styling. What might seem as an effortless look at first, is in truth a very well thought through combination of asymmetry, prints and layers. Nomad style suits a bohemian and sporty modern-day traveller. It was practical and stylish before, and can become modern again. It is chic, practical and cozy. Colors: undefined half-tones, greenish neutral, khaki, seaweed, earthy, pale, almost cosmetic neutrals, tinted white, fibrous beige‌ Fabrics: textured weave cottons, drills, rustic canvas, linen/cotton blends, bleached denims, washed twills, cotton sateens, bio tech, knits, bamboo, soybean, corn weaves, gummy treatments Details: hoods, giant pockets, loose sleeves, inner drawstrings, Velcro, XXL zips, pleats Accessories: raw, combination of leather, canvas and string,. Belts, shoulder bag, organic inspiration, long shell necklaces, roman sandals, moulding Keywords Tribalwear, carefree spirit, layering, long sweaters, warm, oversize plaid coats, shearling boots, cozy, chunk knits, faux fur vests, long skirts, exotic, bold prints, soft, pragmatic
12
Inspiration Reed Krakoff 2015
For the Krakoff’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection I was developing my ideas upon the fabric with a “wet” effect and its crumpling an sticking. It looks very soft, simple and feminine, yetit is very characteristic, the same way Krakoff’s collections are. The nomad trend is represented through colors (beige, white, brown, and other earthy and dusty colors) and leisure look, which supports Krakoff’s DNA.
13
Inspiration Sacai Luck 2015
For the Sacai Autumn/Winter collection I have chosen to work with the layering aspect of the nomad trend. I got inspired mostly by old cracked walls which I used in combination of dividing garments to parts and mixing them on top of each other. This is what Abe usually does in her collections. Nomad trend is very suitable for this brand in terms of layering and unfinished look.
Working sketch no.1 Sacai Luck A/W 2015
Working sketch no.2 Sacai Luck A/W 2015
Working sketch no.3 Sacai Luck A/W 2015
Working sketch no.4 Sacail Luck A/W 2015
Working sketch no.5 Reed Krakoff A/W 2015
Working sketch no.6 Reed Krakoff A/W 2015
Working sketch no.7 Reed Krakoff A/W 2015
Working sketch no.8 Reed Krakoff A/W 2015
Collection development 2 focus
-Trend and InspirationA second year (4th semester) project with focus on Trend and Inspiration used as an preparation for the final AP exam. This report reflects chosen designers which are: Reed Krakoff, representing NY fahsion and Abe Chitose for Sacai Luck representing Paris fashion week. The analysis is made upon their Design DNA, Target group, Trend for Pre Fall / Autumn 2015, individual inspiration for each of the designers, Line-ups and Spec drawings.
Margareta Sopkova - Collection development - 4th semester - TEKO 186226@viauc.dk teachers- Maj-Britt Jorgensen, Annemette Oxlund