the jacket - the creation processproduct development
1
2
-technical specification packfront view back view details non colour/colour- options technical drawing pantone reference/colour balance /fabric samples fabrics and trimmings
4 5 6 7 8 10 11
-toile development and experimentation-
12
-production management reportthe final in motion
20 22
-master pattern-final patterns (envelope)-
3
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: front 11.5cm
8cm 1,5cm inner draw cord channel 8cm 6cm
19cm
7cm from Front Neck Drop
5cm length dart
1,5 cm Welt pocket 15cm length
9cm length welt pocket
2cm from CF 24.5cm 10cm 12.5cm Ribbing cuff 17cm 4cm visible hand warmer
5cm 7cm Ribbing band
67cm 2 ways open zip No. 6 on CF
Stitch Type Cover stitch
Used section -see drawing-
Main Materials Schoeller WB-400
Sub Material
5.5cm
Thread Colour matching colour
Item No. 5807-299/74960
Used section Main body
Item No.
Ribbing
Used section
Reflective Pipping
Waist band, cuffs, hand warmers Arms (back)
2 ways open zip No. 6
CF
Plastic zips
Pockets
press fasteners
hood- collar
Item No.
Aditional Draw cord Reflective strap
Notes
2cm Zipped Welt pocket
Used section Inner Hood CB, Chest pocket
Size Chest (at armhole lower point) Waist Shoulder to shoulder (back) Front Lenght (without collar) Centre Back Lenght Front Arm Hole Sleeve Length (from crown) Cuff Opening Hood Hight at CF Hood Depth Stand Collar
114cm 88cm 47cm 61.5cm 76cm 27cm 67cm 29cm 35cm 21cm 5cm
Care Label Info Schoeller WB-400:
40
Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
4
f
w
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: back
5 panels hood
Twin Needle at collar
7cm 4cm
5cm length dart
Box Pleat 35cm openning
16 cm Reflective strap
13cm
Back pocket: 17cm openning with zip
Stitch Type Cover stitch
Used section -see drawing-
Main Materials Schoeller WB-400
Sub Material
Thread Colour matching colour
Item No. 5807-299/74960
Used section Main body
Item No.
Ribbing
Used section
Reflective Pipping
Waist band, cuffs, hand warmers Arms (back)
2 ways open zip No. 6
CF
Plastic zips
Pockets
press fasteners
hood- collar
Item No.
Aditional Draw cord Reflective strap
Notes
Used section Inner Hood CB, Chest pocket
Size Chest (at armhole lower point) Waist Shoulder to shoulder (back) Front Lenght (without collar) Centre Back Lenght Front Arm Hole Sleeve Length (from crown) Cuff Opening Hood Hight at CF Hood Depth Stand Collar
5
88cm 47cm 61.5cm 76cm 27cm 67cm 29cm 35cm 21cm 5cm
Care Label Info Schoeller WB-400:
40
Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
114cm
f
w
Brand: Vertical
Factory: CR
Style No: 001
Season: A/W 12
Style Name: Masc jack o1
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: Hood and Collar removable system
1,5cm inner draw cord channel
Reflective Pipping
press fasteners
Hood attatches to collar through metallic
Twin Needle
6
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1
View: n/c, colour ways
7
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: technicalities- front
Reflective piping
Detachable hood
Drawcord adjustable hood High protective collar zip guard
2 ways opening CF zip
Zipped chest pocket with headphones’ internal access system.
Articulated elbows
Zipped pocket on inner sleevecuff for small essentials
Front zipped pockets
Hand warmers with thumb opening
Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
8
Brand: Vertical
Factory: CR
Style No: 001
Season: A/W 12
Style Name: Masc jack o1
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: technicalities- back
Detachable hood
structured fit Box pleat for freedom of movement
Reflective piping for easy recognition on cycling posture
Articulated elbows
Reachable zipped back pocket
Reflective stripe
Longer back for comfort on the bike
Schoeller WB-400 properties: . 4 ways stretch . water repellent . breathable . wind repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
9
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1
Pattern: J-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: pantone reference- colour balance - fabric samples
a
b
c
d
e
-Pantone reference- a: 4985c/ b: 7503c/ c: 430c/ d: black c/ e: 7503c/ f: 411c
-fabric samples10
f
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 001 Style Name: Masc jack o1
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: fabrics and trimmings
a
h e
d f
g
c
k
i
b
j
a- Schoeller WB-400 b- linning c- linning d- Ribbing e- 2 ways open zip No. 6 f- Brown plastic zip g- Red plastic zip h- press fasteners i- Reflective strap j- Draw cord with stopper k- Reflective Pipping 11
Pattern: J-001
-toile development and experimentation-
12
the evolution step by step
13
the jacket- modifications
14
analysis: existing cycling performance jacket
the details . cycling features -reflective line on the back -across back and arms for visibility when cycling- shape- longer back for protection-reflective detail on collar-Ventilation openings on back- removable hood with reflective details- hood’s adaptability system: poppers elastic to modify face shape- inner pocket with headphone system for accessibility.
15
1- the sleeve
Engineering the sleeve: -4 darts on elbow line for articulation and shape Hand warmers and cuff: started as a 5 pieces sleeve where the hand warmer was locked with the lining. It was developed to a 3 pieces sleeve with hand warmer coming from the cuff joining line. This modification does not compromise the lining behavior.
2- the shape
Noticed: box pleat on the back is essential to allow movement during cycling body posture.
16
3- the details
Applying the pockets and experimenting with pockets sizes and types In the first design – draft- the jacket has front envelope pocketsIt was noticed that these elements changed the balance of the front jacket. Fully zipped welt pocket were applied to the design maintaining the balance of the elements on the overall garment
4- the balance
Re-shaping the collar. Modifying the toile’s size and angle based on existing products characteristics.
17
5- the pockets
Box pleat on CB should have a security top stitch in both sides - beginning and end- to control the pleat’s opening and to avoid the box pleats’ back layer to get out of place.
6- the hood
Engineering the hood for maximum comfort for cycling performance
18
7- final toile
Moving zip guard and facing to keep verticality on CF line.
... in motion
Fitting- confirming shape, size, pockets (sizes, place and reach ability), box pleat opening, longer back and hood for comfort during cycling body posture
19
8- the prototype production management report This stage had the advantage of having assistance from a college’s Technician. After having everything cut, organized and ready for production, the technician collaborated during the completion of the product. The process lasted two and a half days and the finalized product was beautifully made. As the final toile and technical drawings were clear due to previous intensive experimentation, the jackets’ manufacture process was straightforward and few decisions had to be taken. It was noticed that the best system to be applied to the chest pocket with internal opening for headphones was to open a bottom hole locking the lining and the pocket bag together. This system would connect the pocket bag with the inner jacket through a small jet pocket placed on the jacket’s inner facing. The technicians’ experience and ability contributed to develop and finalize this important and elaborated stage of the garment with no delay. New ways to connect layers were noticed during this highly collaborative experience. The experience of the stage: working with technicians is important for the effectiveness of the product.
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9- final in motion
1