the jumper - the creation processproduct development
1
2
-technical specification packfront view back view non colour/colour- options technical drawing pantone reference/colour balance /fabric samples fabrics and trimmings
4 5 6 8 10 11
-toile development and experimentationfinal in motion
12 19
-master pattern-final patterns (envelope)-
3
Brand: Vertical
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
Season: A/W 12
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: front
coldblack速: Sun Reflector - UV Protector Dark colours are known to heat up in direct sunlight more than light colours because they absorb both the visible and invisible elements of the sun's rays. coldblack速 is a special fi nishing technology for textiles that reduces heat build-up on dark fabrics.
raglan sleeve 3.5c 3x 1.5cm red butons contrasting colour eyelets
lockstitchopening end point
Pattern: j-001
Many textiles that are worn in summer or in the sunshine offer poor protection from damaging UV rays. The new coldblack速 generation now guarantees a minimum UV protection of UPF 30 when applied for any textile* in any colour without affecting the look or feel of the product.
4cm
16cm fully zipped welt pocket Connected Pocket on the inside
from: http://www.schoellertextiles.com/en/technologies/coldblac k.html
19cm
cover stitch straight front hem
Stitch Type
17cm
Used section
contrasting colour topstitch
Thread Colour
cover stitch
cuffs, hem
matching colour
top stitch
front
contrasting colour
Main Materials Schoeller - dryskin
Item No. 61912/ 068900
gray thick elastic cotton
Sub Material
Used section Main body
Size Chest (at armhole lower point) Waist Shoulder to shoulder (back) Front Lenght (without collar) Centre Back Lenght Front Arm Hole Sleeve Length (from crown) Cuff Opening
88cm 47cm 61.5cm 76cm 27cm 67cm 29cm
front and back panel
Item No.
Used section
heat sealed reflective tape
back collar
3x zip No. 4 in different colours 3 x Buttons
front pockets, back pocket
detail
side opening front
36 polyfil thread col: 9927
eyelet
Aditional
114cm
Item No.
Used section
red button
Care Label Info Schoeller - dryskin
Notes
40
Schoeller - dryskin properties: . 4 ways stretch . UV stop . abrasion resistant . water repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
4
f
w
Brand: Vertical
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
Season: A/W 12
Pattern: j-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: back
13.5 cm heat sealed reflective tape
3.5cm 14cm
contrasting colour eyelets
7cm
raglan sleeve 58cm
16cm fully zipped welt pocket
cover stitch longer back
Stitch Type
Used section
Thread Colour
cover stitch
cuffs, hem
matching colour
top stitch
front
contrasting colour
Main Materials Schoeller - dryskin
Item No. 61912/ 068900
gray thick elastic cotton
Sub Material
Used section Main body
Size Chest (at armhole lower point) Waist Shoulder to shoulder (back) Front Lenght (without collar) Centre Back Lenght Front Arm Hole Sleeve Length (from crown) Cuff Opening
88cm 47cm 61.5cm 76cm 27cm 67cm 29cm
front and back panel
Item No.
Used section
heat sealed reflective tape
back collar
3x zip No. 4 in different colours 3 x Buttons
front pockets, back pocket
detail
side opening front
36 polyfil thread col: 9927
eyelet
Aditional
114cm
Item No.
Used section
red button
Care Label Info Schoeller - dryskin
Notes
40
Schoeller - dryskin properties: . 4 ways stretch . UV stop . abrasion resistant . water repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
5
f
w
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
Pattern: j-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: n/c, colour ways
6
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
View: n/c, colour ways
7
Pattern: j-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
Pattern: j-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: technicalities- front
3 button system opening for extra ventilation contrasting colour eyelets for ventilation
comfort raglan sleeve for performance activities
16cm fully zipped welt pocket Connected Pocket on the inside
straight front hem for comfort in cycling posture
stilish colour detail
Schoeller - dryskin properties: . 4 ways stretch . UV stop . abrasion resistant . water repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
8
Brand: Vertical
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
Season: A/W 12
Pattern: j-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: technicalities- back
reflective stripe on back collar for easy recognition
stretch back panel for freedom of movement during cycling performances and extreme body postures
contrasting colour eyelets for ventilation
16cm fully zipped welt pocket on the back for easy acces during cycling
Longer back for comfort
Schoeller - dryskin properties: . 4 ways stretch . UV stop . abrasion resistant . water repellent . heat retention . moisture controlling
9
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
Pattern: j-001
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
View: pantone reference- colour balance - fabric samples
a
b
c
-Pantone reference- a: 446c/ b: 1795c/ c: 5565/ d: 425c
-fabric samples10
d
Brand: Vertical Season: A/W 12 View:
Factory: CR
Style No: 003 Style Name: Class jum o3
margarita ruiz/active sportswear.y 3
fabrics and trimmings
c
d
e
f
a
b
a- Schoeller - dryskin b- gray elastic cotton c- botoms d- 1cm reflective stripe e- metallic zip f- Polyfil thread 75
11
Pattern: j-001
-toile development and experimentation-
12
the evolution step by step
13
1- creating the lines
flat back side- back panel development
14
2- first fitting
Successful first fitting - shape, size and fit were looking good. Measuring opening system and performing basic cycling postures to check comfort. It was noticed that the sleeve was a bit too small. The sleeve line has to be dropped down without compromise the back. Some engineer has to be done on inner sleeve to avoid excess of fabric. Lines are placed correctly. Highly comfortable back panel for extended back postures was noticed.
15
2- second fitting
It was noticed that the sleeve was not restricted anymore and that back was not compromised during the change. Inner sleeve looked slimmer and fitted. Confirming side front opening depth and checking collar height. Front side and back pockets were marked to be placed correctly with the right size.
16
3- combination and experimentation
17
4- the prototype
Pockets development and opening system. The front pocket was engineered to be an inside fully connected bag pocket for comfort and space. The opening system was fully developed to match with the different colours/fabrics and lines in the collar and panels. To create a balance and a visual continuations of elements
18
5- final in motion
19