Maria Claudia Galli MARIA CLAUDIA GALLI FASHION MARKETING
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contents
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TRENDS AND FORECASTING TOBE REPORT SUSTAINABILITY [BLANK] SWIMWEAR CREATIVE DIRECTION/EDITORIAL RUSSH MAGAZINE GLOBAL SOURCING CIRCE RETAIL SPACE RALPH LAUREN STYLING ALL SAINTS GRAPHIC DESIGN TEXT AS AN IMAGE
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TRENDS AND FORECASTING
TOBE REPORTS - one of the most important aspects in life is color and how it affecs the phisical and physicological responses of human and their environment. The tobe reports were created for a trends and forecasting class with the purpose of analyzing, researching past and present trends in order to forecast future tendencies.
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Tobe Report FW 15/16 La vie est Belle
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ACCENT
SECONDARY
POP
PRIMARY Tobe Report FW 15/16 La vie est Belle 8
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HOW SHE WEARS IT
Tobe Report FW 15/16 La vie est Belle 8
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9 Tobe Report FW 15/16 La vie est Belle
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SUSTAINABILITY
BLANK SWIMWEAR [blank] was the vision of four active, fashion forward and independent women that wanted to provide the surf and swim world with an ethical and transparent lifestyle option. The [blank] line is the answer for the modern woman with the desire for a brand that cares to the core. Inspired by a life spent traveling and innovating through self expression, [blank] aims to be the best we can be ethically. Our practices in textiles and pro-duction are designed to create surf and swimwear that is both stylish and sustainable.
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[
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blank swimwear
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[mission] We are based on sustainable business practices that focus on principles of transparency, waste reduction and cyclical business models. We impose a design process that works to incorporate all leftover scraps and recycled materials into new original garments.
[vision] As we move towards our goal, we will grow by providing a sustainable swimwear brand that encourages and inspires woman to do and feel better.
[values] First and foremost, we care not about the garment on our woman, but the woman in our garment. We strive to supply swimwear to powerful, sexy women who disregard the opinions of others, choosing instead to rely only on the opinions of themselves. However, our second most desire is that the garments we put on those women do no harm to their bodies or the environment through chemicals, and, through a transparent business model, showing those women exactly where that perfect bikini comes from.
[our company] 12
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[psychographic segments] In order to supply our swimwear to the areas it would be desired most in, we must find groups of people who want it. Our main segments feature lifestyle groups including Urban Achievers, Young Digirati, the Bohemian Mix, and Money and Brains (Prizm, Claritas). The first segment, Urban Achievers, feature middle class, younger women without children. These consumers are informed, and well educated. The Young Digerati are not only educated, but both tech conscious and savvy. These customers are shoppers and travelers. The Bohemian Mix are slightly older, but fluent in current trends, and slightly more wealthy (Prizm, Claritas). According to Prizm, residential areas surrounding the first of our two target areas, Los Angeles, California, include Culver City and Melrose. In Culver City, our main segment is the Urban Achievers. Because our brand aims to target the health and tech conscious middle to upper class, this segment fits our market perfectly. In Melrose, the segments spread further out to the Bohemian Mix and the Young Digerati, both of which are well informed in technology and environmental advancements. Melrose is a prime location to sell [blank] swimwear because of its appeal to shoppers as well as the desirable Melrose avenue, featuring dozens of small boutiques. Our second target area is Miami, featuring Urban achievers, the Young Digerati, and the Bohemian Mix. Miami is a vacation spot and home to beach goers looking for sexy swimwear to wear practically year round (Prizm, Claritas).
[demographic segments] In women’s clothing, fit is hands down the most important factor for purchases, with a staggering 81% relevance in buying. Also impactful to purchases are comfort [71%], price [63%], and towards the center of the spectrum, style and color, both at 46% (Cotton Inc Survey, see Appendix). In terms of sustainability, 33% of women are willing to pay more for an environmentally friendly purchase, and 53% would pay extra for the guarantee of natural fibers. However, to most women, how sustainable the garment is does not effect their purchase entirely, having only 14% importance in total purchase decision making (Cotton Inc Survey, see Appendix). It is likely that this number could rise if the environmentally friendly options had better fit or style.
[target customer] 13
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[mood board//color story]
[product development and sourcing] 14
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[f] vita [w]$62.51 [mu]60% [r]$100.00
For the surfboard and beyond, this eye catching rash guard blends design with function. This bodysuit’s edge comes from its geometric cut, allowing the arm to be less constricted in active water sports. The suit is completely reversible, allowing for both left and right handed gals to perform more efficiently in the water.
[f] vita [w]$64.24 [mu]60% [r]$102.78
Who said basic black was boring? Netta is our sexy, high neck cap sleeve bodysuit for performance swim. This suit is anything but boring, flattering every curve while you hit the waves in total confidence.
[f] vita [w]$64.54 [mu]40% [r]$90.36
Surface is the bikini for comfort. This piece embraces the body with it’s simplicity in design while accentuating your body’s natural curves. The Surface includes straps from the trimmings of the fabric, which then transforms the bikini for low-impact beach sports like yoga and swimming laps by providing more support for the top.
[f] vita [w]$62.82 [mu]40% [r]$87.95
The Sitra is the definition of reserved with an edge. This bikini was made with the purpose of empowering our gals by creating the perfect fit for various body types. Sitra’s extra top straps hug a woman’s curves perfectly, making her feel sexy and confident.
[product development and sourcing] 15
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[garment life cycle] 1 design
2 production
3 distribution
4 use
5 post-life
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[blank] swimwear focuses on the the practical design of the gaments as a crucial part of our waste management approach. The fabric cutting stage focuses on constructing new garents from the extra fabric such as rash guards and other bikini sets that work s puzzle-like pieces that will be put together afterwards.
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For the production of our fabrics we chose a company with the same ethics, transparency, and environmental care. Carvico is an Italian company that focuses on the ideal creation of a sustainable swimwear while also being highly commited to respecting and helping to improve the environment.
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[blank swimwear goods will be mainly distributed through the e-commerce while also distributing them in select retail boutiques in Miami and California.
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[blank] swimwear focuses on garments that are form-fitting and functional for water sports while also appealing wearing outside of the water. The laundering of our swimwear is designed to reduce the amount of water used in each wash.
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[blank] swimwear believes in extending the life span of each garment with proper care while reducing waste impact. However, if the garmers life can no longer be extended, we highly encourage our customers to send the garment back for recycling in order to reduce landfill impact. If we cannot further repurpose or reuse the garment material, [blank] swimwear will send the garment to Cycla for recycling.
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[hangtags]
The [blank] swimwear hangtags will be made from 100% post consumer waste material. Each hangtag will be identified with garment specifications such as the environmental impact of each garment, fabric usage, tracking code number and specific customizations. cost - [300/$245]//$0.82
[care instructions] The fabric care labels are heat transferred onto each piece with simple instructions for proper garment treatment. While helping raise consumer awareness, this also serves as a way to extend the life cycle of each piece.
[] care instructions
cost - [500/$95]// $0.19
[branding and messaging] 17
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CREATIVE DIRECTION/ EDITORIAL
RUSSH MAGAZINE - Was created in 2014 by SCAD Students for a trends and forecasting class. RUSSH magazine was produced with the purpose of acting as a professional and regional publication. russh magazine contains articles all the way from school news to every day trends and photoshoots done by russh team.
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Form Over Function Finally Takes Precedence
Fashion is a trend-driven industry. That’s the premise of the whole business. New collections indicate the fads of the world at the current moment. But, when you take a step back and look at the bigger picture, there a few aesthetic strands that most designers follow, or at least acknowledge. Recently shoe trends have taken a drastic change. Remember Alexander McQueen’s 09’ Armadillo heels towering at 10 inches? Compare that to Chanel’s spring 2014 athletic sneakers, Isabelle Marant’s sneaker wedges, or Celine’s “furkinstocks.” Function and comfort seems to be the new aesthetic. The foundations were paved long ago. Adidas can claim to be the first sportswear brand to gain high-end fashion status. The Y-3 line, featuring sneakers, launched with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto 13 years ago. It was the first brand of its kind, shown on the catwalk with Yamamoto’s autumn/winter 2001 collection. And even before that, according to history, and to Lagerfeld in a video interview posted on Chanel’s website “In the history of fashion, around 1800 to 1840 or 1845, women had flat shoes. Even with a ball gown, they had flat shoes.” Everyone is on board with this trend it appears. One is hard pressed to find a photo of Rihanna not wearing a pair of Nike sneakers. Mary Kate and Ashley were even both seen in Birkenstocks with socks underneath. Vogue even using Adidas shower sandals in shoots. The trend has now evolved main stream accessible as Teva’s has collaborated with Opening Ceremony and Birkenstock with J. Crew.
But this trend may be a good thing after all, a reflection of the positive direction of our economy. Usually, in an economic downturn, heels go up and stay up, as consumers turn to a more flamboyant fashion as a means of fantasy and escape. At the height of the economic crisis in 2009 the height of women’s heels peaked at seven inches and by 2011 dropped all the way to two inches. Much like the “lipstick effect” heel height has become an economic indicator. Historically, heel heights noticeably grew during the Great Depression of the 1930’s, and the Oil Crisis of the 70’s. It is in human nature to respond to the attitudes of the surrounding environment they live in. In today’s zeitgeist and forecast of tomorrow’s, one should expect to see this trend continue to emerge. 32
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Left: Sunglasses, Alexander McQueen; Lipstick Chanel. Front: Earrings, Giorgio Armani; Necklace, BCBG Maxazria. Back: Earrings, Henri Bendel; Lipstick, Christian Dior; Right: Sunglasses, Miu Miu.
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JUNE
{street style}
AUSTRALIA FASHION WEEK 62
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GLOBAL SOURCING
CIRCE -is a company that specializes in trendy separate and affordable women’s work wear. Our brand is known for providing high quality, well-tailored suits, blazers, jackets, blouses, trousers, skirts and dresses. As a company, we aim to offer separates in order to give versatility to our clients. Although we aim to design trendy garments, our company processes in long lead times and plans future orders in advance for longevity and quality of the garments. The goal of the company is to achieve maximum sustainability and empower women. Our values consist of personal growth, prosperity, honesty, stability, aesthetic, intellectual growth, creativity and integrity. This is why we have chosen to name our brand after the goddess Circe who embodies all of these values.
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introduction
Circe is company that specializes in trendy separates and affordable women’s work-wear. Our brand is known for providing high quality and well-tailored suits, blazers, jackets, blouses, trousers, skirts and dresses. As a company we aim to offer separates in order to provide versatility to our clients. Although we aim to design trendy garments for our customers, our company processes in long lead times and plans future purchase orders in advance for longevity and quality of the garments. The goal of the company is to achieve maximum sustainability and empowering women. Unfortunately, we live in a world where not all women are given equal opportunities to be put in a higher position. Women are often given unequal pay, unequal growth opportunities and overall unequal treatment. According to data provided by Catalyst. org, there is currently a 19.2% share of board seats for women in the U.S Stock Index Companies. Female full-time workers only made 78 cents for every dollar earned by men, a gender wage gap of 22% (Institute for women’s policy research). Women’s empowerment is an integral part of our business plan. Our values consist of personal growth, prosperity, honesty, stability, aesthetic, intellectual growth, creativity and integrity.
target market
Name: Nicole Parson Age: 25 Status: Single Location: Washington DC Education: Bachelor’s in Finance Occupation: Accountant Drives: a Scion TC Salary: 50 k Favorite things: • Coffee with her frineds from college • Organization • Her historic apartment • TED talks In her spare time she is a part of the American Business Women’s Association and donates to women centric organizations when she can. She likes classic, polished clothes with subtle, feminine, special details and a pop of color that will set her apart in the workplace while still being taken seriously.
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products and price range
curie $23.87
amal $34.37
amelia $33.13
belva $33.13
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textile industry
CHINA. For the past decades, the scenario in China has changed drastically due to its expansion in the industrial sector that has lead to an increase in the economy. The textile industry in China is recognized as one of their ma jor contributors to China’s economy, this being one of the main highlights for Circe’s picking China’s as one of their key countries for production. The textile industry in China is ranked as one of the top when compared to other countries. It has earned this recognition due to its high diversity in manufactures, which in turn, has opened many doors for companies since it enables them to search for competitive prices while still benefiting from having high standards.
MAURITIUS. The textile industry for the past four decades has only been a positive addition to the restoration of the Mauritian economy. Although Mauritius exports worldwide, their main exports are to the United States, Europe and South Africa. The Mauritian industry has been designed to please the many different buyers located around the world in terms of volume, price and diversity putting Mauritius in a very important position in the South African region. Although their manufacturers may vary depending on the type of product, Mauritius main exports range from work wear, t-shirts, pullovers, lingerie, swim and sportswear
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.
With a 2.5% of growth rate, the DR is one of the largest import and export markets for US textile products in Central America and the Caribbean region. The Dominican Republic textile industry is expected to continue growing as well as importing fabrics from different countries, primarily fabrics from the United States. One of the main and best advantages over any other countries is the delivery time to especially to the US that competes with the low prices. The ma jority of the apparel manufacturers prefer to use good quality materials at the lowest price possible. Dominican republic best sales are woven garments and knit products. 7
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final placement
Circes’ first work wear collection was created for fall/winter 2015. Circe will be producing one million units of women’s blouses. In the future, we plan to extend our assortment to blazers, pants, skirts and dresses. The Amelia peplum and Belva wrap fashion blouses have 240,000 units each. Our basic best seller, which is the long sleeve Amal button down, has the most units of 290,000. The short sleeve Curie button down top is also a basic but with the least amount of units at 230,000. We plan for this basic top to not sell as much as the long sleeve or the fashion tops because it is more of a seasonal basic. The final placement was determined by having our fashion blouses manufactured in China. They are not a basic product that needs to be replenished as often. The long sleeve collar button down, which we plan to be our best seller, will be manufactured in the Dominican Republic, closer to the US. Our short sleeve collar button down, which has the least units but is still basic, will be manufactured close to home in Mauritius.
Final Placement & Margins Country
China
Supplier
Lu Thai Short Sleeve Pepum 240,000
Style Total Units
1,000,000
Wholesale Cost per Unit Margin %
$ $ $
Total Wholesale Total Purchase Total Margins
$ $ $
31,359,800 9,407,900 21,951,900
Avg Wholesale Avg Purchase Avg Margins Avg Margins % Avg Cost/Unit
$ $ $
31.36 9.41 21.95 70.00%
$
21.95
$ $ $
Long Sleeve Wrap Blouse 240,000
33.13 $ 9.94 $ 23.19 $ 70.00% 7,951,200.00 2,385,600.00 5,565,600.00
Dominican Mauritius Republic Samsew S.A. Esqual Long Sleeve Short Sleeve Button Button Down Down 290,000 230,000
$ $ $
33.13 $ 9.94 $ 23.19 $ 70.00% 7,951,200.00 2,385,600.00 5,565,600.00
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$ $ $
34.37 $ 10.31 $ 24.06 $ 70.00% 9,967,300.00 2,989,900.00 6,977,400.00
$ $ $
23.87 7.16 16.71 70.00% 5,490,100.00 1,646,800.00 3,843,300.00
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RETAIL SPACE
RALPH LAUREN - A pop up shop created for the brand with the purpose of gaining new clientele and building loyal customers from the Asian market. The Ralph Lauren pop up shop is located in Hong Kong’s most famous horse race track.
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FASM 410 - Prof, Alessandro Cannata Natalia Colichon, Maria Claudia Galli, Monica Martinez, Gavin Walters.
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
At Ralph Lauren, our goal is to reach and penetrate as many markets outside of our United States roots, and grow strong relations with markets abroad. A specific focus of the brand is penetrating the constantly growing and changing Asian market, specifically that of China. We hope to gain the high luxury market position we proudly hold in the U.S. Our position as one of the leading American luxury lifestyle brands is a strength we hope to educate and engage the consumers of the Asian market. We plan to integrate this implementation in the international business capital of Hong Kong, China with a pop-up shop in the Hong Kong Jockey Club. Hong Kong is a financial playground, home and workplace to many of the key figures among the business, art, fashion and financial industries. We have chosen the Hong Kong Jockey Club, for not only the central location the social environment, but also to help resonate the equine elegance and heritage of the brand. The popup shop will take place within the Club, equipped with a full bar, and traditional polo lounge to fully engage the consumer, enveloping them into not only the brand history, but also fully engaging them into the specific lifestyle the brand represents. In addition, we face high levels of competition from the surrounding 547 retail operations comprised of luxury international brands and 67 flagship stores.
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MARKET ANALYSIS Name Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Government Type: Limited Democracy
Life expectancy 83.8 years (total population) 82 (male) Ethnic Composition Chinese (95%) Filipino (1.6%) Indonesian (1.3%)
Head of State President of China Xi Jinping Head of Government Chief Executive Leung Chun-yinh Population 7.18 (2013) Currency Hong Kong dollar (HK$) GDP (purchasing power parity) 38,123.52 USD (2013)
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THE LEADING EDGE Offers racing watching and dinning, equipped with Plasma televisions and more than 200 tables. It also has self-ticketing machines offering betting assistance.
WINS CAFE Betting facility for a racing and dining experience. It is equipped with private televisions units at each table and Ipad rental service. It is reserved just for Priority Silver Customers and above.
THE GALLERY Venue choice for a happy Wednesday (racing nights) experience. It offers view to the racetrack, horse racing dĂŠcor and digital experiences. It serves bistro-style Mediterranean semi-buffet and a bar with cocktails.
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• The Hong Kong Happy Valley Racecourse is located in the ma jor housing and business area of Happy Valley on the Hong Kong Island. • The happy Valley Racecourse offers flat races which are regularly packed, with and electrifying atmosphere that is rarely seen on other racecourses. • The Happy Valley racecourse location is one of the two most popular horse racing facilities in Hong Kong. • It is close to Hong Kong’s Central district which is famous for its international hob of businesses and culture. • As many as 40,000 people go on Wednesday nights during the racing season that extends from September to early July. • Horse Racing is the only legal form of gambling in Hong Kong. Which is famous among locals, international residents and tourists. • Happy Valley is an upmarket Hong Kong neighborhood that holds a big percentage of expats which favors the attendance of internationals to the racecourse. • Wednesday nights in the racecourse are particularly interesting, with bright lights, a frantic atmosphere and big winning payouts. • Billions are spent every year at the Happy Valley Racecourse, as large bettors are attracted to the high class racing. • The racecourse is centrally located in the middle of Hong Kong Island. So it can be reached by MTR (subway), TRAM, Bus and Taxi. • Horse Race in Hong Kong is a pivotal part to many people’s life and to the city’s economy, horse racing in Hong Kong is followed far more passionately than anywhere else in the world. • Ralph Lauren Black Label target customer is a keen on self-indulgent leisure and lifestyle spending. He has invests in expensive hobbies, clothing, personal computers, cars, and independent holidays. The target customer is most likely to spend a Happy Wednesday evening in a private box or in one of the most exclusive race viewing restaurants. • This customer is inside the most popular age segments in Hong Kong and will remain in the future in the short-term. Numbers in this group have been growing for a while as life expectancy continues to rise in the territory.
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before
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after
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STYLING
All Saints - Is a lookbook designed for a Digital presentation techniques class. All Saints lookbook was created by SCAD students with the purpose of developing a lookbook for the brand All Saints mimicking its aesthetic along with the editorial design of the lookbook that represents the aesthetics and style of the brand.
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DEPARTED WOMENSWEAR
SHOT
ON
LOCATION GEORGIA
AUTUMN
IN 02
SAVANNAH, 22
2014
WWW.ALLSAINTS.COM
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2014
GEORGIA
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WW - 1 AND WW - 2 1 - SHEER BIKE DRESS, MOULEON PENCIL SKIRT, ROULETTE PUMP 2 - CHAR FUNNEL, OLYMPUS WHITE CIGARETTE PANTS, BLOCK HEEL STRAPPY SANDAL
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WW - 7 ZULIA DRESS, RIVES BOOT
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GRAPHIC DESIGN
WORD AS AN IMAGE - Was created for Introduction to Graphic Design class with the purpose of representing the meaning of a word through images. the word “Spring� was done with melting ice cubes filled with plants in order to represent the transitions of seasons from Winter to Spring.
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Maria Claudia Galli www.mariaclaudiagalli.com mariaclaudiagalli@gmail.com 48