EL ESTILO 7 draft by Mark McGough

SS12 DESIGNER FOCUS SPA GUIDE LONDON’S MOST LUXURIOUS SPA TREATMENTS BACK TO BASICS HOW TO RECREATE THIS SEASON’S NATURAL BEAUTY

SPRING BREAKS CITY, SKI & SUN

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Available from amazon

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EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

his Spring we see a modern take on the BEAUTIFUL across the artistic board – from the luring husky tones of our ONE TO WATCH, Allman Brown, to the stripped bare Beauty on the SS12 catwalks. Makeup takes natural to the extreme with only the slightest injection of embellishment through a kohled eye or a cherry-popping lip (see BACKSTAGE BEAUTY) and as such, we GO BACK TO BASICS with skincare and unearth the very best products for the essential Cleanse, Tone, Moisturise regime…with a little bit more. Hair is scraped back and pinned with pearls, scooped into a bun or let loose in tousled tresses. On the catwalks, designers seemed to be playing with a Lolitaesque beauty with hyper-feminine yet subtly sexual collections (see the SS12 TREND REPORT). The overarching theme was a precious yet playful form of prettiness with cropped and bandeau tops, cut-out waists and a focus on the décolletage (see FOCUS ON…). If there’s one thing the catwalks told us with their dipping into and crossing of the boundaries of the elements of nature, it is that we need to let go and revel in a BEAUTIFUL DREAMWORLD – we bring you the best escapes to city, snow and sand...but also the finest Spas in London where you can while away the hours being pampered in luxury. It’s time to take care of Number One – embrace femininity and play with it, let go of customs and follow the dream, treat yourself whether it’s to the most exquisite flowers (see SAY IT WITH FLOWERS), to the finest coffee (see ANTIPODEAN COFFEE REVOLUTION) or to the wonderful extreme of a concierge closet (see CLOSET QUEEN). SPOIL YOURSELF this Spring…

THE TEAM OLIVIA BURTON Editor HELEN PENFOLD Designer AMANDA OBEROI PR & Marketing Director CHRISTIE PHEDON Head Talent Scout ADAM STEER Head Writer MODELS Heather Kennedy Heidi Stuttard XIARM EVIA Photographer LOUIS JULIEN Art Director HAIR & MAKE-UP Ayesha Mubarak Published by Mark McGough To feature in the next issue or to join the EL ESTILO* team get in touch! editor@elestilo.co.uk

OLIVIA BURTON | EDITOR EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

ONE TO WATCH Allman Brown Music Q&A by Olivia Burton

First record bought? The First record I ever bough was actually a tape! Bad by Michael Jackson. I would watch Moonwalker all the time when I was little. Song that changed your life? I have to choose two here, my Mother loved Lionel Richie and played Dancing on the Ceiling a lot... but the first song that really grabbed me and that I played on repeat endlessly much to the dismay of my roommate at the time was “With or Without You” by U2. There is a real and simple perfection to that song that never fades. Inspires you to write music? The people in my life inspire me and the way they make me feel. Also, writing music is a way for me to deal with all my emotions, memories and everything that is happening in my life, the good, the bad… all of it. Musician you most admire and why? Bon Iver for me are the band (headed up by Justin Vernon) that I most admire today. Their output is organic, ambitious and just utterly beautiful. It’s the type of music that cuts straight through me and envelops me. Bob Dylan also for just never stopping, always evolving 4

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‘‘Writing music is a way for me to deal with all my emotions, memories and everything that is happening in my life” and writing some of the greatest poetry. Other artists like Radiohead, Feist, Marvin Gaye... the list is endless but all of them have a gift of revealing themselves to the listener and creating music that infuses itself into you. Definition of success? At the moment success means honesty, longevity and always growing musically. Obviously money and excitement would be great, but at the end of the day it’s just you in a room asking yourself ‘do I feel proud of myself and of what I’ve made?’ Favourite drink? White Russian no question. Vodka, Kahlua, Full fat Milk served on the rocks. Stir and repeat until buzzed.

Favourite film? Oh, way too hard. I’m a film geek so I’ll have to give you a cross section: The Royal Tenenbaums, Heat, The Fountain, The Proposition, Grosse Point Blank, Oldboy, Kung Fu Hustle, The Lives of Others, The Dark Knight, Munich, He Got Game, The Thin Red Line, Annie Hall, The Curious Case of Benjamin Button... Favourite book? I have several....Cloud Atlas (David Mitchell), Silk (Alessandro Barrico), True History of the Kelly Gang (Peter Carey), The English Patient (Michael Ondaatje), Everyman (Philip Roth), Brideshead Revisited (Evelyn Waugh), The Warlord Chronicles (Bernard Cornwell), Schindler’s Ark (Thomas Keneally), The Interpreter of Maladies (Jhumpa Lahiri) etc Guilty pleasure? Noodles. Specifically the Beef Flavour from Demae Ramen. This brand was the original brand of instant noodles created by Momofuko Ando which I feel gives my guilty pleasure a little more gravitas... Personal motto/philosophy? “Whatever Works”. If you can find happiness in any shape without hurting others or yourself, go for it.

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‘‘The people in my life inspire me and the way they make me feel”

Inspired you to write Woman? Would it be boring to say a Woman? I know this one person - all of her complexity and potential, and how she makes me feel, both about myself and about her, went into the song. Vision for the future? To get signed, learn more, do more and to tour the world. Dream? My dream is to always be able to do this, to write and perform music because it is what I love to do.

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Gone are the days when a neatly-labelled, colour-coordinated, walkin wardrobe meant that you’d ‘made it’ in the fashion stakes… these days, with women becoming more dominant in the workplace, there’s a new demand for the ‘invisible’ wardrobe – one that you can access from any corner of the earth. Olivia Burton unveils Mounissa Chodieva’s Vault Couture - a phenomenon that is taking the fashion and business industries by storm. ‘‘Mounissa Chodieva sought to establish a modern-day solution to the age-old travelling wardrobe crisis”

s an avid collector of fashion, self-confessed perfectionist and globe-trotting business woman, it is no wonder Mounissa Chodieva sought to establish a modern-day solution to the age-old travelling wardrobe crisis. Chodieva and New York real estate heiress Ruth Barinstein carefully thought out every aspect of wardrobe management and came up with a logistics and concierge service, designed to eliminate even the most meticulously organized of members’ wardrobe worries. Vault Couture literally handles everything – from storing, managing, organising,

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transporting, collecting and even styling your wardrobe. Vault Couture is aimed at jet-setting business men and women whose hectic travelling schedules leave them little time to manage their day-to-day wardrobe needs. The Vault Couture service works effectively like a wardrobe electronic PA – it provides a cataloguing service of your entire wardrobe, whereby each piece is professionally photographed from different angles, and immaculate storage. There are even temperature-controlled vaults to ensure that no pieces are damaged. Vault Couture also allows you to view and style your wardrobe collection on their website and state-of-the-art iPad app from anywhere around the world. You can even create ‘looks’ for your virtual PA to put together and pack ahead of your

‘‘Vault Couture is aimed at jet-setting business men and women”

upcoming business trip. Once you have selected your desired outfits, Vault Couture handles the transport and collection in a fast and efficient manner, delivering your selected wardrobe in pristine condition within the selected timeframe.

For those who are too time-pushed to pick out their own selection of outfits and would prefer assistance, Vault Couture also has a team of expert stylists is hand to put looks together for you and will save them onto your online wardrobe app. Vault

Couture also offers an online, boutique marketplace, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Vault Boutiqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, which allows members to buy and sell pieces from past collections. * The service is membership only EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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‘‘It provides a cataloguing service of your entire wardrobe, whereby each piece is professionally photographed from different angles”

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Displays collection in Selfridges window

An outfit from Alex’s 2012 collection.

ne million people a week are seeing the work of a fashion graduate from the University for the Creative Arts (UCA) at Rochester having been given his own window display at a world famous department store. Alex Mattsson, who graduated from BA (Hons) Fashion Design in 2007, is one of 15 emerging designers who was recently named one of Selfridges Bright Young Things for 2012. As well as showcasing his collection in the famous Oxford Street windows until the end of February, the 27-year-old has also been given the unique opportunity to sell his work in store and via Selfridges.com. Alex, who is from Gothenburg, Sweden, said: “I feel very privileged to win this amazing talent project.

‘‘One million people a week are seeing the work of a fashion graduate from the UCA at Rochester” “The purpose of the Bright Young Things project is to give young designers like me a big break and to help raise our profile - I now have my collection being seen by millions in the windows of one of the world’s best-known department stores as well as on sale in the shop and online. “The publicity has already given me a huge boost – just days after I was announced a winner, I had a double-page spread in The Metro, which really shows the scale of this project and the potential benefits involved. Donna Ives, Associate Dean of Fashion at

Alex Mattson’s window display at Selfridges, London – photo by Andrew Meredith

UCA Rochester, said: “Millions of people will see Alex Mattsson’s designs in the window of one of the most illustrious department stores in the world. It’s every aspiring designer’s dream come true.”

UCA Rochester graduate, Alex Mattsson

Bright Young Things is a pioneering project by Selfridges which aims to seek out and champion the most exciting young creators in the UK. Alex stood out for his ‘razor-sharp tailoring and progressive masculine silhouettes.’ He plans to continue developing his own fashion label from his East London studio with this new exposure but remembers where he learned his craft. Alex added: “During my degree at UCA, I went from knowing nothing about garment construction or design, to making a graduate collection which I’m still proud of. The guest tutors we had were really inspiring and part of the reason I have got to where I am now.” UCA has a long history in producing talented fashion designers - graduates include Karen Millen, Zandra Rhodes and 2009 Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award winner Myrto Stamou. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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Olivia Burton explains how gone are the days of the giant-sized American latte... smooth, rich Antipodean artisanal coffee has taken London by storm. Once you’ve had this fresh-tasting, velvety, bubbleless coffee, there’s no turning back... ‘‘Only the freshest of Arabica beans are used for their coffee”

WHO?

WHAT?

DKD Café in Auckland, which revolutionized New Zealand’s coffee culture in the 1980’s, is recognized by many to have developed the flat white coffeemaking technique, but the term “flat white” itself was apparently already in use in Sydney to describe a similar style of coffee.

The art of the Flat White lies heavily in steaming and pouring the milk. The taste of milk is said to change above certain temperatures. Most ‘normal’ forms of coffee making involve scalding the milk, whereas the ideal flat white is made with milk around 60 to 70 degrees Celsius, at which

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temperature the fats and proteins in the milk retain their sweet flavour. The milk must be ‘stretched’ (warmed gradually) in a metal jug. Steam to create a gentle foam. Foaming the milk whilst steaming creates a creamier consistency essential to the Flat White. Gently swirl the jug to mix the bubbles back into the milk. Slowly pour the velvety milk into a cup with the espresso shot, holding the cup at a slight angle and ‘layering’ the milk in sideway movements as you pour from side to side. Then pull straight with the last lick of creamy milk to create the smooth patterned ‘head’. WHY? Because we’re fed up with tasteless milky lattes and burnt bean brews by coffee house chains.

WHERE? ST Ali 27 CLERKENWELL RD, LONDON 020 7253 5754 The first ST ALi coffee shop opened in Melbourne and was named after the 15th century Yemeni, “patron saint of coffee”, Ali ibn Umar al-Shadili. They are dedicated to green coffee purchasing – sourcing, roasting and serving coffee that adheres to its quality, travel ability and seasonality requirements. The result? Only the freshest of Arabica beans are used for their coffee. ST ALi pride themselves on paying higher than Fair Trade prices to ensure that their Arabica beans are hand-picked and delivered for them to roast on-site. While attention to roasting, brewing and serving excellent coffee is always at the fore, to complement this ST ALi serve a fresh and constantly evolving breakfast, brunch and lunch alongside a range of pastries, cakes and biscuits which are baked on-site each morning. EE* particularly likes their almond croissants and lemon friands. KAFFEINE 66 GREAT TICHFIELD STREET, LONDON 020 7580 6755 Located in Fitzrovia, just north of Oxford Street, and owned by a New Zealander, Kaffeine is a trendy little café, light, spacious and with slick attention to detail. Their coffee philosophy is based on the notions of quality, care and responsible sourcing of beans. We love their mint and lime infused complimentary water CARAVAN 11-13 EXMOUTH MARKET, LONDON 020 7833 8115 Owned by New Zealander Miles Kirby, Caravan is a restaurant, bar and coffee

roastery and can be found on the corner of Farringdon’s busy Exmouth Market. The interiors have a cool urban feel with glazed frontage overlooking the bustling market. Miles is Caravan’s head roaster and takes inspiration from his extensive travels to develop seasonal blends and unique flavoured coffee. A distinction is made between espresso coffees (made from a blend of beans that changes with the seasons) and single estate coffees, which tend to be served as filter coffee due to their unique flavour characteristics. They roast their coffee onsite daily using 100% Arabica beans that have been ethically source from around the globe. LANTANA CAFÉ 13 CHARLOTTE PLACE, LONDON 020 7637 3347 Priding himself on bringing a little bit of Australia to Fitzrovia, owner, Aussie Shelagh Ryan, set up Lantana Café after bemoaning the lack of decent cafés in the London. The intimate café has a takeaway outpost next door (the former marked as ‘In’, the latter ‘Out’). The atmosphere is the relaxed and hip with a great soundtrack and plenty of typical Aussie amenability. TAYLOR STREET BARISTAS 110 CLIFTON STREET, LONDON 020 7929 2207 This Antipodean-run operation has expanded with exceptional pace, and it is no wonder: their philosophy is ‘coffee porn’ – coffee that looks too good to drink. And it tastes that way too. The espresso blend is a complex mixture of several varieties of coffee beans (a collaborative effort from Taylor Street Baristas and its supplier Union Hand Roasters), and they use a coffee machine, the Dalla Corte Evolution

2003, which has been World Barista Championship-approved. FLAT WHITE & SISTER CAFÉ MILK BAR 17 BERWICK STREET, SOHO, LONDON 020 7734 0370 3 BATEMAN STREET, LONDON 020 7287 4796 Flat white is located in the heart of Soho and prides itself on producing excellent quality espresso inspired by the artisanal style coffee prevalent in Australian and New Zealand cafes. Here you’ll experience a coffee ‘culture’ rather than just coming for the coffee itself thanks to a culmination of food, art and music aswell. Both cafes offer deliciously sweet, creamy coffee with aromatic flavours served by passionate and friendly staff. ALLPRESS ESPRESSO 58 REDCHURCH ST, LONDON 020 7749 1780 In 1996 Michael Allpress, who established one of New Zealand’s first specialist coffee companies, joined forces with lifelong friend and well-known Sydney restaurateur, Tony Papas to create Allpress Coffee. In 2010 they expanded overseas and brought their artisanal coffee to Shoreditch, London. They carry out their sourcing in fair and equitable trading and only source the highest quality available. To obtain this quality they trade with small estates and co-operatives that are sustainably managed with high standards of agricultural practice and they spend time roasting and tasting samples of Specialty beans to evaluate and perfect the aroma of the chosen beans. Images provided by St.ALi EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

WHY? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Three Floor provides modern, simple designs for the fashion forward without the extortionate price tag. Think clean lines, a minimalist yet edgy aesthetic and bold cuts. Little more than 3 months old and already causing a stir amongst the fashion pack. We love their sugar sweet pastels for spring/summer 2012. Available at

www.threefloorfashion.com 14

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‘‘This company prides itself on caring about its blooms”

f you’re looking for a gift for a loved one or just a treat for yourself, look no further than THE REAL FLOWER COMPANY – their natural, beautifully scented, fresh garden roses are a cut above your bog standard bouquet. Birth child of Rosebie Morton, Tim Hobbs and Karen Watson (previously the Buying Director for Harvey Nichols), this company prides itself on caring about its blooms. Beds are tended by hand and stems are individually hand-cut and prepared by those who grow them. Beribboned or boxed, their roses are the pinnacle of perfection. Available online at www.realflowers.co.uk, at Selfridges or their new Pop-Up shop at The Bluebird.

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ALEXANDER McQUEEN

The life aquatic

Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SS12 show was architectural in its majesty. An underwater world of jawdroppingly sculptural pieces â&#x20AC;&#x201C;goddess glamour and babydoll femininity took on an otherwordly quality thanks to a preciosity bordering on couture. Empire lines exaggerated by waves of ruffles, froth pleating, waists cinched by conch-like belts, wafer-fine lace, beaded soft armoury, a waterfall of pearly silk. This fragile yet strong collection, so exquisite in its artistry, transported us to a marine utopia. 20

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“An underwater world of jawdroppingly sculptural pieces.”

“This fragile yet strong collection, so exquisite in its artistry, transported us to a marine utopia.”

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ETRO

Art Deco Veronica Etro ditched the customary paisley print this spring and opted instead for an eclectic mix of art deco graphics inspired by the patterns of the futurist graphic designer and artist Fortunato Depero. This may indeed have harked back to the Jazz Age with its bold block colour contrasts, silver tassles, drop waists and gold fringing, but Daphne Groeneveld appearing in a sheer black underwear-exposing dress brought the eye towards the collectinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contemporary edge with bared midriffs, plunging necklines and cut away waists. A beautifully bold and artistic exposition of the past made modern.

The Chairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Party, by Fortunato Depero (1927)

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Haider Ackermann She Walks In Beauty

Haider Ackermann aimed to create an aura of ‘Rockabilly Lord Byron’ in his collection for spring/summer and poetic it certainly was. Byron once said of himself “I am such a strange mélangé of good and evil that it would be difficult to describe me” and the same could be said for Ackermann’s woman. There is a delicate fragility to his long flowing dresses which drape to veil the face, but the sheer torso adds a touch of the risqué. Once again Ackermann has produced an enigmatic and beguiling collection – at once sexually alluring and yet boyishly nonchalant – tapered cigarette pants teemed with low-slung lame, slouchy trousers mixed with breast-binding silver straps which drape in folds around the waist. But what else would we expect from this master of opposites. After all, his very source of inspiration is a game of conflicting factors – the hard edge of rock comingled with the soft romance of Byron. Hence the opalescent palette of jewel silks mixed, for example, with the hard burgundy patent of an Oxford slipper. The result is a lustrous collection of dizzyingly beautiful colours and cuts which are at once daringly sexual yet have the appearance of having slipped into a male lover’s clothes 26

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SHE WALKS IN BEAUTY AS THE NIGHT OF CLOUDLESS CLIMES AND STARRY SKIES; AND ALL THAT’S BEST OF DARK AND BRIGHT MEET IN HER ASPECT AND HER EYES...

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JASON WU SS12

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TAILORED

PRECIOSITY

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JASON WU

Tailored Preciosity Crystal collars and pussy bow ties. Lightas-a-feather outerwear in pink and lemon. Sharp, black, crow-like hair accessories. Metallic eyelash fringing. Skinny bow belts. Waspish waists, bell sleeves and billowing skirts. Sheer blouses with falling petal prints, tailored knicker-shorts and fish-tails…Jason Wu’s SS12 collection was structured yet fluid, pretty with dark undertones, elegant with a touch of risqué, proper with a dash of eccentricity. Wu’s slate grey, black, pink and lime palette was soft but eye-popping. His beautiful floral prints which dominated the collection, were a result of a collaboration with 90s graffiti artist KAWS. This was a lesson in tailored preciosity. Take his black leather pleated jacket fastened with skinny bow belt and zipped up to a metallic green flecked collar for example. We loved Arizona Muse’s white shirt with crystal-embellished collar, bell-waisted and slope-shouldered white jacket teemed with tailored black cigarette trousers. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

JASON WU SS12

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CHANEL

Graphic seascape Karl’s Spring/Summer collection for Chanel was a refreshing and innovative step away from the house’s more quintessential style. The scene at the Grand Palais was set with underwater shapes of shells, corals, sea horses and stingrays…not to mention Florence Welch singing What the Water Gave Me from an open shell. Models paraded pastel and pearlescent tweeds, ruffled swathes of tulle, smooth oil-slick black leather, structural waves of cream and white silks and cotton. Every detail plunged us deeper into the sea with pearl studded spines, conch clutches, fish net tops intertwined with shimmering metallic pearls, skirts ruffling like sea wash, layer upon layer of scallop edging…even the metallic booties looked fit to slip into the water. But there was a graphic edge to the designs with zig-zagging lines, voluminous sleeves and pockets and fins of tulle fanning skeleton-like from the breastbone. Karl never ceases to amaze with his ability to transport us through his designs into a more beautiful and dazzling dreamworld. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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CHANEL SS12 EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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PRADA

It’s Grease Lightning! Miucca’s vision for Spring/Summer was an American dream of duke boxes, flaming exhausts, nights at the drive-in and days cheering at the Varsity…. Models with slicked roots and curled hair paraded flame-heeled stilettos, Cadillac emblazoned silk bombers and elastic high-waisted pleated skirts. Miucca went matchy matchy with some of her kaleidoscopic prints, but clashed others with mismatched printed bandeau tops teemed with patterned and car-motifed leather pencil skirts. Despite the playful and eccentric side to the collection, the pieces have surprising wearability – sheer icecream pink dresses, elegant 1950s pleated skirts, belted one pieces in stunning prints, coats in crochet and lace and slimline bowling bags. The collection is at once forward-thinking in its daring innovation, yet harks back to an era of too-cool-for-highschool Pink Ladies. It has an air of the playful tongue-in-cheek and yet still maintains a sophisticated wearability. 40

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“Despite the playful and eccentric side to the collection, the pieces have surprising wearability.”

EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Miucca went matchy matchy with some of her kaleidoscopic prints, but clashed others with mismatched printed bandeau tops teemed with patterned and car-motifed leather pencil skirts.â&#x20AC;&#x153;

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MARY KATRANTZOU Print intoxication

Mary Katrantzou offered us a different vision of the ocean-meets-plantlife theme: this was an altogether more extravagant affair with bold computer-generated colour and digital underwater prints of tropical fishes swimming amidst the underwater fauna of a lagoon, of row upon row of neatly ordered brightly colour flower fields…Bright blue oceans were pulled into asymmetrically gathered swathes of bubble hem, honeycomb-esque trompe l’oeil was moulded tightly to the chest and ran gold and molten like into waves at the knee. Crayon colour florals are interspersed with graphic sealife prints. The effect went beyond mesmerizing and took on a 3D quality with metallic paint cans and bands of colourful crystallized applique flowers, which the designer described as “a whirlwind of metal.” This was a collision of art and fashion in the most spectacular form – where the more you look the more you see…shiny metallic golden-stemmed flowers weaving their spindles into a bodice piece…optical illusions of bubbles allowing you to peer in at a scene otherwise blended indistinguishable into the whole.

“Crayon colour florals are interspersed with graphic sealife prints.”

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GUCCI

Jazz Age revival Frida Giannini architectural and androgynous collection for Spring/Summer was a modern take on the Jazz Age. This was no girly 1920s coquettishness; it was strong, sculptural and decadent with masculine tailoring and soldierly embellishments. Hair was scraped severely back in a slick bun. Colours were bold and graphic with blocks of green, white, black and gold. Lines zigzagged and crossed in Art Deco splendor. The devil was in the detail, with jackets sculpted from black and gold leather fringe, laser-cut leather shift dresses, boxy silk jackets in dazzling prints, python skins, navel-plunging necklines, gaping backs, metallic heels, gold button fastenings on trouser hems, chains connecting lapels and jackets made from shimmering metallic scales of snake skin. The look was pure, unadulterated luxury. 48

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“Frida Giannini architectural and androgynous collection for Spring/ Summer was a modern take on the Jazz Age”

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ALBERTA FERRETTI Girl warrior

Alberta Ferretti’s designs for SS12 were cool, sophisticated and contemporary with a modern tribal twist. Chiffon paneled dresses revealed slivers of skin through sheer detailing, creating a refreshing new take on graphic print by making it sexy. A palette of black and white was interjected with bright colours – fushia pink, orange and purple. But the real attraction of this collection lies in the air of sexy insouciance the clothes afford – white sheer dresses like slips, seductively suggestive thin trenches cut deep to the breast bone and tied loosely at the waist, waists and hips seen through beaded and sheer peekaboo paneling, Focus is most definitely on what lies beneath. 52

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RAG & BONE

New Age Athleticism David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have made sportswear sexy with their stunning SS12 collection. This was a lesson in tailoring and layering. Halter bikini tops were glimpsed through mesh oversize hoodies, which in turn were teamed over stretch-woven skirts. Open shirts and blazers were teemed with slit-fronted pencil skirts. Loose oversized silks billowed over tailored trousers and topped with a cropped, fitted blazer. The overall look was a cool, modern athleticism. Neon orange and bright turquoise paired with navy and white screamed sport, whilst sunrise knits added a softer edge. We love the billowing drawstring skirt with peekaboo neon knickers beneath. Be inspired and chain a clutch to your wrist or tie a halter bra or top in a choker band around the neck. 56

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“David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have made sportswear sexy with their stunning SS12 collection.”

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PETER PILOTTO

Geometric exoticism Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilottoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SS12 collection dipped us into a tropical world where jungle meets oceanic underworld. Fish-like scales and scubaesque sculpturing ,with sporty racer backs and haltering, were mixed with Indonesian inspired exotic print of vibrant flora and fauna. As a whole it was busy, exciting and enticing. Laser-cut tailoring and snaking lines within the print accentuated the female form. From afar this was a collection to daze and amaze, but the real enchantment happened up close where one could appreciate the extraordinary attention to detail in each piece of the collection - sporty neoprene, industrial zips, broderie anglaise, lattice work, intricate embellishment, metallic threadwork â&#x20AC;Ś The collection was unique in its ability to appear disciplined and structured whilst also able to transport the viewer to a land where the elements merge and the senses explode. We love the perspex heeled Nicholas Kirkwood shoes. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

â&#x20AC;&#x153;From afar this was a collection to daze and amaze, but the real enchantment happened up close where one could appreciate the extraordinary attention to detail in each piece of the collection.â&#x20AC;?

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MARK FAST

Sunsets and sandstorms Mark Fasts’ SS12 show was a striking indication of the intimacy between the body and knitwear. The Canadian designer’s collection revealed more than it concealed with lattice knit, fringing and cropped tops drawing the eye to the skin. His sandy hues and sheer wool seemed like the models bodies had been clothed with a sheath of desert sand. The collection was sensual and romantic, poetic and suggestive. It had an air of being swept up in a sand storm amidst desert dunes before the setting sun turns into darkness. The 1920’s crimped bobs and golden hues gave it a glamorous and elegant edge and conjured images of Kristen Scott Thomas being carried through the desert in The English Patient. Quinta Witzel with her blonde bob and sheer floor-length knitted dress had us dreaming of tropical far-off lands… 62

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FELDER FELDER Punk soft

Twins Daniela and Annette Felder have deftly steered their SS12 collection away from their customary punkrock aesthetic to a new, fresher spin on strong femininity. Yes there are skinny leather harnesses, choker necklaces, metallic stud detailing and gold chainsâ&#x20AC;Ś but the soft, fly-away chiffons, silk tulle and jersey dresses in pastel prints and delicate cuts, with skater skirts and feminine cardigans imbue the collection with an overriding female fragility. Felder Felderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s woman is poised and confident in her prettiness. We love the open-toe studded shoe boots and sheer black, skin and silver print leggings. 64

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“Felder Felder’s woman is poised and confident in her prettiness.”

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“We love the opentoe studded shoe boots and sheer black, skin and silver print leggings.”

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CHLOE

A cool nonchalance British-born designer Clare Waight Keller had fairly big shoes to fill taking the helm of Chloe after the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Phoebe Philo, but her SS12 collection was a refreshing lesson in the art of restraint. There were no fireworks here, no striking turning point for the house, but instead a sense of continuity and fluidity. From pleated mid-length skirts, full lowslung trousers, loose dresses belted at the hip or flowing a-line from the neck, Waight Keller gave us a modern take on androgyny â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a pretty boyishness. White crisp cotton shirts speckled with embroidered flowers buttoned at the neck and cuffs, elegant sheer dresses with t-shirt roll-up sleeves, three quarter length trousers turned up at the ankle, loose blazers and study belts. This was the floating form of the Chloe we know and love. But if the cut was seemingly lacking structure, the pure colour palette injected a sense of form into the collection with blocks of terracotta, sand and foundation. Stripes and mosaicked print, meanwhile, gave the pieces a touch of art-deco glamour. 68

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“This was the floating form of the Chloe we know and love.”

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PRABAL GARUNG Flower fetish

Never has a designer made florals quite so alluring … Prabal Garung’s SS12 collection which was inspired by the Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki’s ‘Sensual Flowers’ series was lustful, fresh and strong. Each piece was a feast of colour, texture and structure: purple, black and turquoise bloom prints which upon close inspection appear already wilting, leather and latex belted corsetry, naked waists, sleeves and skirts of sheer tulle and mesh, dresses slashed to the upper thigh, trousers with lace paneling, leather bound tops aflush with feathers, metallic neons on black borders…. Femininity reigned supreme, but this was no wishy washy girlishness, it was dominating and womanly. Dresses nipped at the waist and parachuting at the hips. Shoes bound ankles in a multitude of leather and perspex straps. Hair was slick, mouths bold. Garung’s collection was subversive, beautifully crafted and subtly audacious.

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“Femininity reigned supreme, but this was no wishy washy girlishness, it was dominating and womanly”

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JONATHAN SAUNDERS

A not-so-desperate housewife Jonathan Saunders’s SS12 collection transported us to Miami Beach – to a world of sparkling swimming pools, bright blue skies and dazzling sunshine. His palette was a cacophony of bright and shimmering pastel colours. His Fifties-inspired cuts were a far cry from the prim Bree Van de Kamp; Saunders’ was a relaxed take on the ‘housewife’ with a large dose of wonderfully girlish candied prettiness. Sheer blouses were teemed with puff skirts, falling just below the knee. Silk cardigans hung loosely open, knitted jumpers were worn over silk skirts. Neon shades atop pastel bases created a sensorial effect close to those moments when you catch a yellow sun gleaming on the surface of an ocean. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

“Saunders’ was a relaxed take on the ‘housewife’ with a large dose of wonderfully girlish candied prettiness”

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THE SECOND EVER RUNWAY SHOW FOR MARCHESA AND IT DIDN’T FAIL TO DELIVER… GEORGINA CHAPMAN AND KEREN CRAIG HAVE PROVED THAT THEY DOMINATE IN THE LUXURY GOWN STAKES. EXQUISITE EMBROIDERY SCULPTED TO THE SKIN, SHIMMERING SWISHES OF METALLIC HORSE HAIR, FINELY DRAPED BEADING, CRYSTAL EMBELLISHMENT AND SWATHES OF TULLE. THE DESIGNER DUO’S S/S COLLECTION WAS ELEGANT, PRECIOUS AND BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL. THESE ARE PIECES TO BE TREASURED…

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footwear Bold, structured and daring â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the more straps and buckles the better...

Felder Felder

Prabal Garung

Jason Wu

Peter Pilotto

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feminine Sheer, floating and floor length â&#x20AC;&#x201C; release your inner goddess

Haider Ackermann

AKRIS

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off duty clutch Large, hard-wearing and nautical – we love Acquascutum’s paireddown clutch bags

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neck pieces Large, hard-wearing and nautical – we love Acquascutum’s paireddown clutch bags

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waists Tone up those abs because S/S adores crop tops and bandeaus

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flowers In any shape or form - from bright and bold, graphic and digital to demure English garden

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95 BLUEMARINE

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hoodies For a touch of cool athleticism pull up that hood

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rdem Moralioglu’s signature floral prints for this season were youthful, elegant, precious and more importantly romantic. With so many designers opting for a more artistic and graphic take on the floral trend, it was refreshing to see wistful prints in wedgwood china blue, nude lace and bright light yellow blooms. We love the graceful accessories too – pastel gloves and shoes in matching prints and pretty hats. This was a show of florals at their most delicate and decadent.

“This was a show of florals at their most delicate and decadent.”

“It was refreshing to see wistful prints in wedgwood china blue, nude lace and bright light yellow blooms.” EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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Olivia Burton brings you the best of Spring/Summer’s new fresh and romantic take on skin, hair and makeup

‘‘For problematic skin opt for a cleanser with soothing ingredients to purify and calm”

ith fast-living, easy travel and ever less time on our hands, it’s all too easy to get into a routine of simpleswiping facial wipes and a small dollop of moisturiser to do the job. As a result, makeup residues are left to clog pores and serums or moisturizers ‘sit’ on the skin, having little to no benefit on the crucial epidermal layers beneath. It’s time to go back to basics and rediscover the 3-step rule with EE*’s pick of the best cleansers, toners and moisturizers and that optional extra step …

‘‘The most important thing is to know and understand the brand’’

People vary greatly in what they look for in their Cleansing ritual – some skin types require ultra gentle, organic products; others will react well to a cocktail of carefully tested acids, extracts and vitamins. The most important thing is to know and understand the brand, follow their recommendations for use and switch if your skin is not reacting well to it. Choosing a brand that works with one’s skin type perfectly can be a long and arduous process of trial and error. EE* is here to narrow it down: 100

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cleansers, Bobbi Brown’s Hydrating Rich Cream Cleanser removes makeup and purifies the skin without leaving it feeling ‘stripped’ or dry. Zelens Hydrating Cleanser with camellia oil and brightening pearl extracts leaves skin feeling clean, soothed and soft.

CLEANSE Cleansing the skin is an essential part of your daily routine and should be done both morning (to clean and refresh skin for the day ahead) and evening (to ensure all makeup is removed). By omitting cleanser, or substituting it with a facial wipe, you risk leaving dirt and makeup to clog pores and congest the skin. For dry skin, Antonia Burrell’s Natural Glow Cleansing Oil is deeply nourishing and removes stubborn makeup. For those who prefer cream-based

For sensitive skin we recommend Ila’s super-gentle damascena rose and argan oil Beyond Organic Cleansing Milk. Wei Chinese Rose Foaming Cleanser forms an emulsion when you add water and is also gentle enough to wash eye makeup away without stinging the eyes. Vaishaly’s Cleansing Balm for dry/sensitive skin feels so wonderful when applied to the skin that you will be encouraged to spend a few minutes simply massaging it in.

is super gentle and scent free. Liz Earle’s Instant Boost Skin Tonic, meanwhile, has a delicious floral scent and contains organic aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber and Vitamin E to soothe skin without drying it out.

‘‘Toners should work to ensure any excess cleanser or residue makeup is removed and to refresh skin, tighten pores and retain moisture’’ For sensory heaven, Shiffa’s Aromatic Facial Cleanser smells divine thanks to a composition of varied citrus oils, as does the rose-based Wild Rose Exfoliating Cleanser by Korres. Shu Uemura pure:nu Gentle Cleansing oil-in-gel smells delicious and is best used by massaging onto dry skin and then rinsing with warm water. For problematic skin opt for a cleanser with soothing ingredients to purify and calm the skin, such as Alpha-H’s Balancing Cleanser with Aloe Vera or Clear Skin Daily Face Wash with tea tree and eucalyptus. For those who suffer from blackheads or clogged pores, look no further than Omorovicza’s Thermal Cleansing Balm; a thick, mineral based balm that acts to decongest pores and remove deep-set impurities. For balanced skin Liz Earle’s awardwinning Hot Cloth Cleanser is failsafe. For a cleanser which goes that extra mile by doubling up as a mask and rescue balm we love Emma Hardie’s Professional Cleansing System – the silky consistency melts away makeup

and grime and leaves skin feeling clean, soft and smooth.

TONE Toners should work to ensure any excess cleanser or residue makeup is removed and to refresh skin, tighten pores and retain moisture. Choose a gentle toner, preferably one with a natural humectant such as rosewater. We love Lubatti Clear Skin Tonic in Rose, Elemental Herbology’s Flower Harmonising Mist Facial Tonic with pure rose damask water, Ila Hydrolat Toner for Hydrating the Skin with damascenca rose water. SkinCeuticals’ Equalizing Toner

MOISTURISE Moisturiser is the hardest skin regime component to get right and arguably the most important. Your moisturizer needs to either work to keep skin glowing and protected throughout the day, or else to penetrate and heal the skin overnight whilst you sleep. Choosing the correct moisturizer for your skintype is essential. If you find your skin oily or combination, choose a light moisturizer such as Omorovicza’s Balancing Moisturiser (can be used day and night), Emma Hardie’s Hydrating Lighter Lotion or the Lubatti Honey & Almond Gorgeous Day Moisturiser. Oskia Nutri-Active Day Cream is packed with vitamins, prebiotics, omegas 3, 6 and 9 and milk peptides and leaves skin feeling wonderfully nourished, and Jo Malone’s Vitamin E Daily Moisturising Cream which is rich but penetrates quickly and doesn’t leave a residue. It contains plant extracts to help fight free radical damage, SPF

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‘‘Moisturiser is the hardest skin regime component to get right and arguably the most important”

great: thanks to plant and algae extracts, it works to regenerate the skin and improve elasticity.

15, wheat germ to hydrate and caffeine to sooth sensitive skin. For those with dry or mature skin who require more than a cream based product, Estelle & Thild offer an ecorganic rose otto Facial Oil with the purest organic oils (including the ultra nourishing plukenetia oil), essential fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants. A little goes a long way to banish dry skin. For those who specifically look for anti-aging properties in their moisturiser, Zelens 3t Complex cream is

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Korres Magnolia Bark Day and Night Creams are perfect for those in their twenties whose skin doesn’t yet require the deeply penetrating ingredients of your typical anti-aging cream. These Korres moisturisers work to combat the first signs of ageing thanks to a mixture of hyaluronic acid, vitamins C & E as well as nourishing jojoba and apricot oils. They are nourishing whilst not feeling too ‘heavy’ on the skin. For tired skin or those with uneven skin tones, Nubo White Diamond Radiance Cream is a wonder-cream. It contains ‘micronized’ diamonds with proprionic acid and vitamin C to fight age spots, correct and even out skin tone and bring luminosity to your skin.

Our favourite innovative moisturiser is Dr. Bragi’s Marine Enzyme Age Management Moisturiser which is completely different to any moisturiser we’ve tried before. The consistency is that of a gel but it quickly sinks into the skin leaving it feeling deeply gleaming and not at all greasy. We recommend avoiding mixing the product with other creams creams at least 15 minutes before or after application as this may deactivate the enzymes.

‘‘Korres Magnolia Bark Day and Night Creams are perfect for those in their twenties”

‘‘Kate Somerville’s Quench hydrating serum is fantastic” The beads are so gentle that your skin feels squeaky clean without that taut feeling you so often experience after exfoliation. For a fantastic facial mask try Nubo’s White Diamond Ice-Glow Mask, which, thanks to its oxygen delivery system, leaves skin plump and glowing. It has a cooling sensation that immediately perks up the skin and upon application you can feel it tingle as the ingredients set to work on the skin. We recommend using it twice a week. For a facial mask with

THE ADDED STEP If the 3-step rule doesn’t feel like it is providing enough chutzpa to your skin, then add an extra step by using an exfoliator, mask or wonder-serum. Our favourite exfoliator for daily use is Decleor’s Life Radiance double radiance scrub. Apply it to dry skin and massage in with fingertips before washing off.

‘‘To even out skin tone and add luminosity, Estee Lauder’s Idealist serum is perfect” added exfoliating benefits, choose Dr. Sebagh’s Deep Exfoliating Mask. Used once or twice a week this through cleansing mask will remove impurities and deepclean pores.

After cleansing and toning you may wish to add a serum to lock in moisture and work on wrinkles before adding your moisturiser. Kate Somerville’s Quench hydrating serum is fantastic and you only need apply one pump a day either in the morning or evening so it lasts a long

‘‘Puffy eyes can be caused by lack of sleep, stress or a diet too rich in sodium”

time. Another great serum for plumping skin and reducing fine lines is Rodial’s Glamoxy Snake Serum. This oxygenated, viper-inspired serum contacts a neuro peptide called syn-ake that mimics the effect of a viper’s venom to lift the face, freeze muscles and plump wrinkles. A personal favourite is SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator This serum has a lovely silky texture and harnesses two polar mechanisms — exfoliation and hydration — to boost the skin’s regeneration response and visibly diminish surface lines. Use 4-6 drops morning and or/ evening on face, neck and décolleté before moisturising to EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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transform your skin into a softer, smoother texture. To even out skin tone and add luminosity, Estee Lauder’s Idealist serum is perfect. Use after toning and before moisturiser to lighten and brighten the skin. For those concerned about aging, UV damage and dehydration, look no further than Carol Joy’s IV EVER NIGHT serum. This luxury serum boasts golden millet and diamond dust amongst its ingredients and promises to brighten skin and fade irregular pigmentation.

BRIGHT EYES

‘‘Omorovicza’s Reviving Eye Cream contains Vitamin K, which is a great anticoagulant, arnica to reduce puffiness and cucumber extract to sooth and refresh’’

Eye creams are tough to get right. ‘Loaded’ eye creams can actually have a worse effect than no cream at all. There are two important factors that need to be considered when using an eye product. One is properly identifying what you need to target, as there are many different ways that the eye area can get tired, from puffiness and bags to dark circles and fine lines. The second is knowing how to apply the product and where. Puffy eyes can be caused by lack of sleep, stress of a diet too rich in sodium. To sooth and de-puff eye bags look for a cream or tonic with caffeine or arnica. Omorovicza’s Reviving Eye Cream contains Vitamin K, which is a great anti-coagulant, arnica to reduce puffiness and cucumber extract to sooth and refresh. Dark undereye circles are a sign of stress and are caused by leaking capillaries. Whilst enzymes work to break down the

ALBERTA FERRETTI SS12 BACKSTAGE

hemoglobin in the fragile skin around the eyes, the remaining components are blue-black in colour, like a bruise. Zelens Triple-Action Advanced Eye Cream works to target all three problem areas, but is one of the best at diminishing dark eye circles thanks to its blend of anti-inflammatory and soothing plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, but most of all, it’s caffeine content which increases blood flow and increases circulation Wrinkles or sagging skin around the eyes can be cause by age, lack of sleep or dehydration and is caused primarily by a decrease in glutathione. Perricone MD Acyl-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum topically replenishes the skin’s Glutathione levels around the eye and is especially targeted to the upper lid. This ultra light, fastabsorbing serum dramatically tightens and firms droopy eyelids and smoothes out creases. It also doubles up as an eye primer to help keep make-up’s staying power throughout the day. Dry skin around the eyes is a sign of dehydration and can lead to fine lines and sallow skin. To plump and rehydrate, Bobbi Brown’s Hydrating Eye Cream is ultra-gentle and light enough not to weigh down the under eye circles - it works perfectly to restore essential fatty acids naturally found in the skin and lock in moisture.

HOW TO APPLY: Use your fourth (ring) finger and with a tear drop sized amount of lotion or serum dab gentle around the eye socket. Avoid loading the inner undereye area as the cream will naturally gravitate towards this region from the outer corner of the eye. If this area gets too loaded with product it can cause little white dots of excess sebum. 104

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TIP ANYTHING THAT STINGS YOUR EYES IS NOT GENTLE ENOUGH FOR YOUR SKIN. SKIN SHOULD FEEL SMOOTH, CLEAN AND SUPPLE – NEVER TIGHT FACT HUMECTANTS ARE SUBSTANCES THAT HELP TO KEEP THE MOISTURE IN THE UPPER LAYERS OF THE EPIDERMIS BY PREVENTING IT FROM EVAPORATING TIP USE SURPLUS LOTION ON THE BACKS OF HANDS TO HELP COUNTERACT AGEING, SUN DAMAGE AND DEHYDRATION. FOR THOSE WITH SENSITIVE SKIN LOOK FOR MOISTURISERS WHICH ARE FREE FROM PARABENS, SLS’s, SYNTHETIC FRAGRNACES OR COLOURS AND PETROCHEMICALS. MAKE SURE YOU ADD AN SPF ON TOP OF YOUR DAILY MOISTURISER IF YOUR MOISTURISER DOESN’T ALREADY CONTAIN ONE DID YOU KNOW: PLUKENETIA OIL IS THE ONE OF THE RICHEST SOURCES OF OMEGA 3, 6 AND 9

‘‘Make sure you add an SPF on top of your daily moisturiser if your moisturiser doesn’t already contain one”

TREAT YOUR MAN IS YOUR BOYFRIEND OR HUSBAND STEALING YOUR PRECIOUS CREAMS? PUT A STOP TO IT BY TREATING HIM TO SKEEN+ SERUM REVITALISANT. SKEEN+ PRODUCTS ARE DERMATOLIGICALLY TESTED, FRAGRANCE AND COLORANTFREE, NON-GREASY, WEIGHTLESS AND EASILY ABSORBED. THE L-ASCORBIC ACID IN THIS SERUM COMBATS SIGNS OF AGING AND INJECTS RADIANCE INTO THE SKIN. FOR ANTI-AGING CHOOSE SKEEN+ CONCENTRE CORRECTEUR ANTI-AGE WHICH CONTAINS PURE RETINOL TO CORRECT FINE LINES. HE WON’T LOOK BACK. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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ANTONIA BURRELL A BRIEF INSIGHT INTO THE BEAUTY AND BRAND PHILOSOPHY OF SKINCARE GURU By Olivia Burton. • What is your brand philosophy?

Pure, Highly active, 100% natural, holistic skincare which combines the potency of pure plant bio-actives with sensuous, mood-enhancing organic extracts to give flawless, younger looking, trouble-free skin. The finest chemical free luxury for your skin, that gives the haute couture in facial therapy and improves the quality of your skin and well being.

• What inspired you to start your skincare line?

It was a dream I have always had since I qualified over 18 years ago. However, the real inspiration came from clients (some very distraught with their skin), who were looking for natural products that worked! Solutions to their skin troubles like pigmentation and acne and also anti ageing. The green light went on in my head and I began researching with a deep desire to help and provide solutions to my clients needs.

• How do you go about choosing your skincare ingredients? Research, research, research. Proven clinical studies and trials

• What do you consider to be a key product from your range? The Natural Glow Cleansing Oil. Its the worlds first 100% natural, emulsifying cleansing oil that also treats the skin by helping to reduce any inflammation, reduce blemishes and marks on the skin, brightens the skin and deep cleans without upsetting the natural pH balance of the skin. It smells amazingly refreshing and is a pleasure to use.

• Which beauty products could you not live without? My Cream Supreme moisturiser.

• What is your top tip for a glowing Spring complexion?

I’m a firm believer of facial massage. It brings the blood to the skin and plumps the skin too. An easy and quick way to incorporate this into your routine is to gently tap all over your skin for about a minute after moisturising. 106

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• Are there specific skincare techniques that you would recommend people adopt as part of

their daily routine? Ensure that you cleanse your skin very well. Cleansing is an important part of your routine. Ensure you are using the right cleanser for your skin type and cleanse twice at night time. The first cleanse removes ‘the day’ and the second cleanse really deep cleans and conditions the skin.

‘‘Ensure you are using the right cleanser for your skin type and cleanse twice at night time.”

EDITOR’S

ORIBE HAIR BRAND OF THE MONTH

Delivers on its promises, smells HEAVENLY, and has the most beautiful packaging. I can’t get enough of it right now.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2012

BEAUTY TREND REPORT Olivia Burton speaks to makeup artist Edel Finn about how to recreate Spring’s new take on HAUTE NATURE using Laura Mercier

f there’s anything the fresh faces on the s/s 2012 catwalks told us, it’s that LESS IS MORE. This season the focus is on creating a flawless finish with airbrushed-looking skin, foundation colours and minimal light gleams. Ditch the garishly gothic lips and vamp-kohled eyes of winter and welcome instead the pale blushes, nude lips and subtle contouring of a fresh ‘no makeup’ spring beauty.

‘‘Use a light moisturizer such as Flawless Skin Repair Day Crème to ensure that makeup doesn’t slide during the day’’. STEP 1: NOURISH • Add a little water to Laura Mercier’s oil-based Purifying Cleansing Oil and gently massage into the skin to break down impurities and makeup pigments.

‘‘Laura Mercier’s Lip Silk has AHA acids in to dissolve dead skin’’. 108

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*Edel recommends using Clarisonic brushes for a thorough cleanse and to ensure that any lotions applied after cleansing penetrate as deeply as possible into the skin

• Taking Laura Mercier’s Multivitamin Serums add 2-3 pumps of each serum into the palm of your hand and mix them together to activate the ingredients. Dab the serum mixture gently into the face, neck and décolleté. The serum will sink is straight away to nourish and repair • Use a light moisturizer such as Flawless Skin Repair Day Crème to ensure that makeup doesn’t slide during the day. Avoid the eye area and instead, using your ring finger, pat a small drop of Repair eye serum around the eyes avoiding the inner corner– one pump will do both eyes. *Note that you shouldn’t ‘feel’ that you are wearing cream around the eyes – if you do, there is a high chance you are using too much serum • Laura Mercier’s Lip Silk has AHA acids in to dissolve dead skin – use this morning and night to ensure lips are kept smooth and hydrated

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‘‘Edel recommends avoiding thickening mascaras which will dry out quicker due to the additional fibres’’. STEP 4: EYES

STEP 2: BASE • If you find that makeup usually slips away from the center of your face during the day, make sure you use an oil-free primer such as Oil Free Foundation Primer. *If you prefer a slight gleam rather than a matte look, you can opt for Foundation Primer – Radiance • Using a sponge and ensuring that you have the correct colour match (by dabbing first onto the jawline) apply Laura Mercier’s new Moisture Supreme Foundation to all areas of the face.

of undereye circles • Add Eye Basics in Wheat to the eyelids to form a base for eye colour or simply to wear on its own to correct any discolouration or to hide small veins • Set the base by using the fan brush to sweep Laura Mercier’s new Invisible Loose Setting Powder over the face. This will prevent makeup from sliding • Use a small flat powder brush and dust Illuminating Powder in Starlight lightly over the face, concentrating particularly on setting the undereye concealer

‘‘Choose a blusher which mimics the natural flush of your cheeks and which will lift your skintone, such as Rosepetal’’. STEP 3: CHEEKS *Make sure that there is minimal colour differentiation between face and neck • Take the Secret Camouflage Brush and press it into the Secret Camouflage palette to warm up the pigments – this concealer is oil-free so it require warming up before applying. Dab the concealer onto broken capillaries, breakouts or to redder skin around the nose • Using the same brush, dab a small amount of the Secret Camouflage undereye concealer into the inner sections 110

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• Choose a blusher which mimics the natural flush of your cheeks and which will lift your skintone, such as Rosepetal. Using the cheek colour brush, shake off excess powder and cup the apples of the cheeks with the brush. *Avoid taking the brush out too far as this can have a ‘widening’ effect on the face • Use the angled cheek colour brush and Dune Bronze (for medium to light skintone) to contour the face. Sweep along the jawline, under cheekbones, around the upper forehead and down the nose

• Dampen the flat eye liner brush with water and work into the Tightline Cake Eye Liner (Black Ebony). Looking down, lift the upper lid of the eye and dab the eye liner brush against the inner lash line right out to the edge. Repeat on the upper outer lash line of the lid • Use the pointed eye liner brush with the same liner to create Audrey Hepburn flicks on the outer corners of the eyes *ensure that the brush is thickly loaded with colour to avoid watery lines

• Using the ponytail brush and looking straight ahead, add eyeshadow in Coffee, Bamboo or Café au Lait to the socket of the eye to create definition • Curl lashes and slick on a coat of Defining Mascara (Edel recommends avoiding thickening mascaras which will dry out quicker due to the additional fibres)

STEP 5: BROWS

STEP 7: FINISHING TOUCH • Dab a pea-sized amount of Secret Finish to the top of cheekbones, under outer brows, and to the bow of the lips to sculpt and highlight. You can use this throughout the day to maintain radiance

Makeup Artist Edel Finn is a professional makeup artist with 10 years of experience in the industry. She trained at the prestigious London College of Fashion in Specialist Makeup Artistry and featured in Vogue’s May 2011 wedding edition as gosee Makeup Professional at Laura Mercier in Harrods for wedding makeup advice. She works at the Urban Retreat at Harrods as well as doing freelance work.

• Comb brows • Use the brow definer brush and the waxy textured Brow Definer in Warm to create brow definition, avoiding the inner brow as this can look ‘heavy’. Use brow gel for unruly brows

STEP 6: LIPS • For a natural lip colour use Plum Berry lip pencil and lightly define the lips before filling them in • Add a coat of Lip Stain in Shy Pink • Coat with Gloss in Lilac if you prefer to have a light sheen

‘‘Use the pointed eye liner brush with the same liner to create Audrey Hepburn flicks on the outer corners of the eyes’’. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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BACKSTAGE

BEAUTY

Backstage make-up at the Spring/Summer 2012 shows was a feast for the eyes... face upon face of soft pearlescent skin and nude bases, bare lips and tousled tresses.

ccessories and bold statement makeup were left to do the talking, with pearls at Chanel, bleached brows at Gucci, black liner blocks or ‘panda’ eyes at the likes of Ungaro and Armani, sequins at Givenchy, statement earrings at Prada and Blumarine, eye paint in fluoro and pastel swipes at Balenciaga and Miu Miu, headscarves, tiaras, hoodies and hats. Plaits and pony tails, bows and veils... The general theme for the face, however, was a soft, feminine, fresh look with a modern touch…

- Chanel Natural Finish Pressed Powder in 150 Jasmin

BEAUTY EDITOR FAVOURITES FOR RECREATING SPRING’S MODERN BEAUTY:

When applied, this mousse quickly disappears into a soft sheen. It is perfect for wearing under SPF-free moisturizer (such as Murad’s Hydro-Dynamic Ultimate Moisture cream) to add UV protection.

- Murad Skin Perfecting Primer

It’s easy to load up ‘layers’ on the skin with serum, moisturiser, primer and foundation. If your skin feels too heavy, try skipping moisturiser for a primer with moisturizing benefits . Murad’s Skin Perfecting Primer leaves a dewy finish whilst minimizing the appearance of pores. Skin feels smooth and looks radiant.

This satin finish compact powder is great to take in your handbag to freshen up your makeup during the day. It adds a slight shimmer whilst being light enough not to sit on the skin. I advise sweeping across cheekbones and under the brow.

- Shu Uemura UV Under Base BB Mousse

- Tom Ford Traceless Foundation Stick

Use sparingly to areas of discoloured skin or redness such as round the nose. Overuse will result in foundation creased, but used only where necessary this foundation sits perfectly and covers skin seamlessly.

- Christian Dior Couture Colour Eyeshadow Palette Garden Edition

This will be my failsafe eye palette for Spring. The compact itself, with its shimmering flower embossed colours, looks almost too pretty to use. Use the greens towards the outer corners of the lid to brighten and modernize eyes, and the cream and white shimmer in the inner corners to awaken eliminate the appearance of fatigue.

- Laura Mercier Eye Brow Pencil in Warm Brunette

Focus is very much on the brow this season. If you wish to take a bold step and reach for the bleach, make sure that you use plenty of dark eye makeup and lashings of mascara to make eyes stand out rather than look small and pale. For a less bold but equally contemporary look, fill out your brows in a slightly darker shade than your natural brow colour. This looks great with blonder hair too. I suggest Laura Mercier’s Eye Brow Pencil for its staying power and ease of application, but if you want something longer-lasting, ask for a tint when you have your next eye brow threading. The effect is immediate and really brings out the eyes. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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- Shu Uemura Liquid Eye Liner in Black This is perfect for creating feline flicks on the outer corners of the eyes as seen at Jonathan Saunders. Sweep the liner from the very inner corner of the upper lid out to midway between your outer eye and your eyebrow and wear only with an eye base or foundation. Avoid mascara.

- MAC Paint Pot in Blackground

This highly-pigmented eye colour is perfect for recreating the Gucci ‘panda eye’ . It has a creamy consistency but dries on the lid to a long-lasting and vibrant finish. The slightly pearlescent sheen to this black-grey colour makes the eyes pop. Blend using Sigma’s Blending E25 brush and line the lids with liquid eyeliner. Best worn in the evening to make a statement.

- NARS Lip Gloss in Born This Way

I love the tiny brush to this gloss – it allows for a seamless application. The consistency is sufficiently glossy without the stickiness you can find in a lot of other lip glosses. The colour gives a perfect pale pink-nude sheen. For those who prefer a shimmer in their lip gloss I highly recommend Chanel’s Levres Scintillantes Gloss in Bonbon.

FOCUS ON BLUSH - Kjaer Weis Cream Blush in Blossoming

Kjaer Weis products come in beautiful silver compacts which look too nice to throw away, which is why they offer ‘refills’ for their compacts. This light creamy blusher creates a peach blush and can be swept up the cheek towards the temple for a fully radiant glow as seen at Preen.

- Tom Ford Cheek Colour in Frantic Pink

When applied to the apple of the cheeks this blusher gives a pastel flushed radiance.

- Bobbi Brown’s Nude Peach and Nude Pink Blushes The texture is perfect for a soft matte spring cheek and both create a subtly muted, doll-like blush.

‘‘Bopeep’s underwear sets - Chanel are girlishly Rouge pretty and COCO fabulously soft lipstick in Destinée to wear.” This creamy lipstick is the perfect colour to replicate Spring’s brighter lip as seen at the likes of Dolce & Gabanna, Prabal Garung and Jason Wu. Dab on lips for a bitten look or layer for dramatic colour. 114

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‘‘Lubatti’s Wonderlip keeps lips perfectly hydrated: apply three times a day for smooth and soft lips.”

Olivia’s fail-safes for Spring: For Valentine romance look no further than Jo Malone Rose Bath Oil, Diptyque’s Rosamundi bougie parfumée and Jurlique’s hand cream in rose. Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Spray in purse size is the best dry shampoo out there and fits neatly in my handbag. Chanel’s Sublimage face mask is divine – paint it on before bed, twice a week, and leave it to soak in. You’ll wake up to soft, gleaming skin. Essie polish in Sugar Daddy is perfect on hands and toes for baby doll freshness. Lubatti’s Wonderlip keeps lips perfectly hydrated: apply three times a day for smooth and soft lips whilst the anti-aging ingredients work their magic to prevent and diminish fine lines. Muji’s unbleached cotton wool is my most treasured recent discovery. There is simply nothing that matches this in the softness stakes – perfect for removing stubborn mascara without even the tiniest cotton scratch.

‘‘Most skin brands now offer travel sizes of their winning products – perfect for those who aim to travel light.” Serena Linley soaps are created for both hard and soft water so as to provide perfect nourishment. Ormonde Jayne’s Eau de Parfum in Osmanthus is romantic and deliciously fresh without smelling too sweet. Bopeep’s underwear sets are girlishly pretty and fabulously soft to wear.

Spring Take-aways: Most skin brands now offer travel sizes of their winning products – perfect for those who aim to travel light. Sarah Chapman’s Skinesis Trio of cleanser, serum and moisturiser. It comes in a chic soft white leather case. Sophyto’s Daily Skin Essentials Collection is great for those who prefer a more holistic brand – this kit provides 5 essential skincare steps – cleanser, exfoliator, toner, serum and moisturiser. Sophyto products are based on phytotherapy – sourcing the goodness of botanicals to naturally nourish the skin.

Aromatherapy Associates’ Ultimate Bath & Shower Oil Collection provides an oil to suit your every mood. Murad’s Eye Lift Illuminator has a violet formula to brighten dark circles. It also firms the skin by 50% within 15 minutes – perfect when coming off the airplane. Ormonde Jayne’s purse size perfume sprays so you don’t have to forgo your favourite scent.

Plug in to: Florence and the Machine

‘‘Sophyto’s Daily Skin Essentials Collection is great for those who prefer a more holistic approach to skincare.” EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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EE*’s FAVOURITE NEW FIND:

SERENA LINLEY ‘‘Serena Linley’s products can be purchased at her beautiful shop on 156 Walton Street, London’’.

WHY – because her products transport us to the lavender fields and rose gardens of Provence

WHAT

home sprays and traditionally made lavender balls to keep your clothing scented all year long. The Serena Linley products are free from parabens or phenoxy ethanol and have been enriched with plant extracts to nourish and protect both skin and hair.

STAR PRODUCT - the unique virgin soaps. Noncracking, non-slipping and formulated for specific levels of hard or soft water. Made from pure and naturally soured materials. Form the perfect lather to remove dead skin cells and leave skin strong, radiant and healthy.

– an exquisite product range created with the finest, locallygrown ingredients, tested rigorously and produced in a laboratory at the foot of the Luberon Mountain.

Why virgin? Because as the soap is made, the residue is not reused – instead it is made into a second soap which is given to local charities.

The fragrances are developed in the perfume centre of the world, Grasse, and are based on the dreamy Provencal scents of iris, orchid and lavender.

WHERE

THE PRODUCT RANGE

– Serena Linley’s products can be purchased at her beautiful shop on 156 Walton Street, London. Be transported to Provence in the small garden at the back where you can sit and sample the products and perfumes.

– The Serena Linley range includes soaps, fragrances, hand creams, scented bath oils, shower gels, body lotions, skin care products, misty water sprays and a home collection with scented candles,

‘‘The fragrances are developed in the perfume centre of the world, Grasse’’.

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‘‘An exquisite product range created with the finest, locallygrown ingredients, tested rigorously and produced in a laboratory at the foot of the Luberon Mountain’.

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HAIRCARE the edit

ALBERTA FERRETTI SS12 BACKSTAGE

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styling:

he general theme for Spring is fresh and feminine with a slick twist. Be inspired by our pick of the designers’ new take on

THE UP-DO

-WHERE: Chanel. Louis Vuitton. Valentino. Dolce & Gabanna. -HOW TO: Scrape hair into a low-set bun and slick over with sculpting gel or a generous dose of Moroccan Oil. Be inspired by Chanel and add pearls. Avoid conditioner and use a beach wave spray, such as Oribe’s Apres Beach Wave and Shine Spray, on wet hair. Pull hair into a high set bun, set with grips and secure with a thin alice band, as seen at Louis Vuitton. Pull a few stray hairs loose for an undone look. Plait over one side of your hair parting as at Valentino and pull the rest of your hair into a midset bun, secured with grips. No need for sculpting or spray – this look should be as natural as possible.

o SCRAPED

-WHERE: Stella McCartney. Gucci. Balmain. Dries Van Noten. -HOW TO: Using half a dollop of Oribe Gel Serum Radiance, Magic and Hold, comb through hair and scrape back and pin to hold. This gel serum gives a sleek and sophisticated hold. Frederic Fekkai Coiff Super Sculpt Gel will also hold well. Finish with super hold hairspray.

THE EXTREME

-WHERE: Thakoon. Narcisso Rodriguez. Mulberry. -HOW TO: Not for the faint-hearted. Follow suit from Mulberry and backcomb wildly a la Winehouse, using Philip B Jet Set Precision Control Hair Spray to set, or slick hair back with fluro colour as seen at Thakoon and Narcisso Rodriguez.

THE DOLL

-WHERE: Emilio Pucci. Victor & Rolf . Cacharel. -HOW TO: Use Redken Body Full Volume Amplifier on towel-dried hair and pull up at the roots when blow-drying. Set straight or tousled at the ends and tie with a bow or a printed silk scarf. For extra lift, spray Klorane’s Shampooing Sec ultra-doux onto the roots when hair is dry.

o LAISSÉ-FAIRE

-WHERE: Chloe. Isabel Marant. Mary Katrantzou. Hakaan. Givenchy. -HOW TO:

Use a cleansing shampoo and conditioner (such as Philip Kingsley’s Moisture Balance shampoo and conditioner) to make sure hair is squeaky clean and shiny. Pin back into a ‘messy’ low-set ponytail as seen at Mary Katratzou or opt instead for loose-flowing bedhead hair as seen at Hakaan. For a less lived-in look and an air of nonchalant glamour, be inspired by the sleeker looks at Chloe, Isabel Marant and Givenchy – hair should be tousled not straight and should hang in a soft centreparting. To recreate the tousled, loose-curl look take a section of hair and pull taut, lightly spray Bumble and bumble BIG Bb.Shine hair spray over the section before using hot rollers or curling tongs. Roll the whole section and spray Bumble and bumble BIG Bb.Shine hair spray once again with curlers on. Let the hair set in the curlers. Take curlers out and brush through to style.

o TEXTURIZE

-WHERE: Alexander Wang. Michael Kors. Proenza Schouler. Prada. Lanvin. Elie Saab. -HOW TO: For Alex Wang’s wetlook use Shu Uemura Extreme Urushi Lacquer, mixed with a pea-sized amount of conditioner and sleek through hair. Use the same on roots only and sweep to a side parting to recreate the modern 50’s look at Prada. Alternatively, apply the lacquer or a sculpting gel to roots and comb into a centre-parting to recreate the sleek look at Lanvin and Elie Saab. For a Kors matted twist, tease hair around a curling tong, avoiding any uniform direction, then pin together in several loose falling layers from the half-pony down. For a stiff quiff, as seen at Proenza Schouler, finish with a sculpting wax and Elnett Extra Strength hairspray.

o BOMBSHELL

Where Christian Dior, Zac Posen, Mark Fast. Salvatore Ferregamo. -HOW TO: Add a dollop of Shu Uemura Tasai Cream

and/or Shu Uemura’s Essence Absolue Nourishing Oil to the hair and, using curlers, set hair in semi-tight curls – either into a centre-parting as seen at Zac Posen, or to into a side-sweep as seen at Mark Fast and Dior. Use plenty of hairspray to hold. For longer hair which isn’t as easy to pin up, take inspiration from Ferregamo’s SS12 look and curl hair into semi-tight curls from the midlength to the ends and sweep over to one side of the head in a dramatic side-parting. Hair needs to be healthy to avoid fly-aways – we advise nourishing the hair with Philip B’s White Truffle Ultra-Rich Moisturizing Shampoo.

Philip B’s tip for Haircare this Spring: KEEP YOUR HAIRBRUSH CLEAN

“People don’t really think about it, but using a clean hairbrush makes a huge difference in the styling process: A good clean brush always gives you a better finish. That’s because brushes tend to trap a lot of dust. Especially if you have styling products on your hair, like mousse or gel or pomade, your hair will tend to pick up dust from the brush. By cleaning your brush and getting all the hair out, you clear away all the dust particles and product buildup, too. A hairbrush should be cleaned on a regular basis -- it’s just common sense. Besides, it’s nicer hygienically. To have something you use every single day and not clean it?? Think about it: If you’re a hairstylist and an inspector comes into the salon and finds one hair in your hair brush, you get written up in a citation. Cleanliness is next to godliness!!”

‘‘A good clean brush always gives you a better finish’’. CHANEL SS12 BACKSTAGE TAKEN BY BENOIT PEVERELLI

SPAS London’s Top Luxury Hotel

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Treat yourself this spring and enjoy your post-winter detox in London’s most luxurious hotel spas…

The Connaught ‘‘The Aman Spa prides itself on catering for Aman Spa The intimate 500-square metre spa in the legendary Connaught Hotel’s West Wing is the Aman’s first urban spa destination and features five candle-lit treatment rooms, a 60 square-metre swimming pool and a fitness studio. The Aman Spa prides itself on catering for each individual’s needs. You can simply book in the amount of time you wish to spend with one of the Aman therapists and, after a consultation, treatments will be tailored to achieve your own personal health goals. The core of the Aman Spa’s menu is focused on your holistic wellbeing, and as well as massage and body treatments, they offer healing therapies drawing from traditions from around the world, such as India Chakra balancing treatments. 122

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each individual’s needs.”

EE* recommends:

It has been proven that an ever increasing number of people suffer from sleep deprivation or stress-induced insomnia so what better than to enjoy the Aman Goodnight WATSU. Specially designed to alleviate fatigue, this treatment employs Shiatsu therapy to restore your mind and body to a state of equilibrium and involves you floating in skin-temperature water. A series of waves encourages spinal elongation whilst acupressure allows for

total relaxation of the muscles. They say that an hour of weightless floating has the same restorative effects as four hours’ deep sleep.

The Spa at The Berkeley The boutique spa on the 7th and 8th floors of The Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge prides itself on pioneering alternative health and beauty therapies, as well as boasting the city’s only rooftop swimming pool with beautiful views over Hyde Park. The pool area is the focal point of the spa and is surrounded by a courtyard where you can enjoy afternoon tea or healthy smoothies. In warmer months guests can enjoy swimming in the sunshine as the

‘‘Muscle tension is melted away.” swimming pool has a specially designed retractable roof for warm weather. Get in shape for summer by visiting The Berkeley’s workout guru Stephen Price who has created the ‘Fashionista’s Workout’, designed to focus specifically on toning areas which are most revealed in the current trends

EE* recommends: La Stone Body Therapy – one stroke of massage with a stone is apparently equivalent to 10 European massage strokes so this treatment, using deep penetrating heated stones will leave you totally revitalized. Created by Mary Hannigan, this concept combines volcanic basalt stones for their ability to retain heat aswell as their smooth texture, together with cooling marble carved from geological rock. Muscle tension is melted away by long, penetrating movements with the hot stones and circulation is invigorated using frozen marble.

The Spa at The Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane

‘‘The city’s only rooftop EE* recommends: swimming pool with The Spa boasts specially-trained beauty practitioners by world-renowned Vaishaly beautiful views over who have been taught by Vaishaly herself how to recreate her signature facial. Hyde Park.” The sleek 10th floor rooftop spa at The Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane is an oasis of calm with breathtaking 360-degree views over the city. Each treatment room as its own relaxation pod where you can listen to music, read magazines, or simply while away the hours in blissful peace. The Spa lounge is open 24 hours and is a welcome retreat for jet-lagged travellers arriving at early hours of the morning. It also doubles up as an excellent nightspot with its balcony overlooking the London Eye, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. This private and exclusive lounge area is also available for hire for up to 30 people for drinks and canapés.

We particularly favour, however, the lesserknown Omorovicza facial treatments. The Omorovicza products smell divine and are formulated from Hungarian mineral-rich thermal waters, which have been proven to penetrate much deeper than other products into the skin.

‘‘It also doubles up as an excellent nightspot with its balcony overlooking the London Eye.”

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The Gold Hydrating Facial was created exclusively for the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane and leaves your skin with a soft golden glow. A copper-enriched lactic-acid peel boosts collagen and removes impurities, an anti-inflammatory gold serum soothes distressed areas and a moor mud mask provides a deep cleanse. We love their Gold Shimmer Body Oil which is massaged into hands and arms whilst the mud mask works its magic. *For those who prefer purely organic treatments choose from any of the Spa’s Organic Pharmacy facials.

Claridges Health Club and Spa Located on the 6th floor of this eponymous hotel and offering stunning views across the skyline, Claridge’s luxurious spa offers high quality treatments in impeccable and discreet surroundings. It is here that you will find the renowned French company, Sisley’s, only hotel collaboration in London. 124

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Indulge in Sisley’s skin brightening and anti-aging facials or their Phyto Aromatic body treatments and be transported into a sensual world of revitalization and pure relaxation.

‘‘Indulge in Sisley’s skin brightening and anti-aging facials.”

EE* recommends: The Claridge’s Signature Supremÿa AntiAgeing Ritual - a breakthrough anti-ageing facial with sophisticated deep acting procedures. Fine lines and wrinkles are smoothed out for a toned and firmer complexion. This luxurious facial includes Sisley’s hand and foot treatment so that hands and feet are left supple and soft.

The Spa at Brown’s Hotel Situated in Mayfair’s Rocco Forte Hotel, The Spa at Brown’s offers a wide range of treatments for ladies, gentlemen and even children, each of which can be tailor-made around guests’ specific requirements. Brands include Natura Bissé, NuBo, Carita and Aromatherapy Associates. Tucked away in the basement of the hotel, this minimalist and intimate space has only 3 treatment rooms, one of which caters for two people for couples’ treatments. Look out for their Spa Indulgencies – 2-3 hour package rituals – for the ultimate in pampering.

EE* recommends: For those who don’t yet want to let go of the festive spirit, choose the limitedtime only NuBo Diamond Peel and Reveal Luxury Pedicure to celebrate the collaboration between Brown’s Hotel and Garrard. Sip on Ruinart champagne whilst your feet are buffed with the unique NuBo Diamond Peel and Reveal exfoliation and then immersed in a milk bath infused with natural mineral mica. The frankincense foot wrap and pressure point massage will leave your feet feeling soft and supple before nails are shaped and painted in your choice of colour. *Only available until 31 March

‘‘Sip on Ruinart champagne whilst your feet are buffed with the unique NuBo Diamond Peel.”

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Spring Breaks

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CITY BREAK AMSTERDAM

More than just a coffeeshop stop... By Olivia Burton

msterdam is all too often mistakened as being the destination of young hedonists or roadworn travellers eager for some ‘coffeeshop culture’…EL ESTILO* reveals the true Amsterdam home to some of the world’s best art, upcoming designers, innovative cuisine, and arguably one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

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This is no ordinary metropolis, this is a city where black brick canal houses with vast paned windows reflect the waters of interweaving canals, where the cobbled streets are abuzz with gentle whirring of bicycles, where the markets are awash with row upon row of multicoloured tulip bulbs. An exceptional and unusual city, steeped in history and yet leading the way in contemporary design.

‘‘Home to some of the world’s best art, upcoming designers, innovative cuisine, and arguably one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.”

EL ESTILO* brings you a luxury guide to Amsterdam …

WHERE TO STAY CANAL HOUSE HOTEL Keizersgracht 148-152 +31 (0)20 622 51 82 This 23 bedroom boutique hotel is ideally located on the Keizersgracht, close to all the City’s main attractions. The hotel is designed as a contemporary, 21st century canal house home with a palette of dark purple and black velvets and silks and crisp white.

The hotel comprises three 17th century merchants’ houses replete with large garden and summer house. Sleek modern interiors are comingled with original beams, fireplaces and ornate ceilings, recalling the influence of Dutch art and history. Bedrooms are equipped with Blu ray players and Bose iPod docks. Most of the luxurious bathrooms are incorporated cleverly into the bedroom itself and are stocked with full size Green & Spring bath and body products. The warmly lit bar area gleams with mirrored walls, chrome lighting, glass tops and black leather seating and over looks the Keizersgracht canal. The Great Room, meanwhile, where you can relax with a book or eat from their breakfast, lunch or dinner menus, looks over the garden and is a relaxing bright space with high ceilings. The Canal House’s breakfast is one of the best hotel breakfasts you will find!

WHERE TO EAT CAFFÈ TOSCANINI Lindengracht 75 +31 (0)20 623 2813 Caffè Toscanini was first opened in 1985 as a tiny Italian restaurant in Goudsbloemstraat in the Jordaan, but thanks to its relaxed atmosphere and excellent authentic Italian cuisine, the restaurant has grown into the buzzing empire that it is today, frequented by locals and trendy travellers alike. Food is prepared with great love for the traditional art of Italian cooking and is served by friendly and welcoming staff. Home-made Italian bread is prepared in Toscanini’s own bakery. All ingredients are chosen with the utmost care and are in large part organically sourced. The fresh pastas are home-made. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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YAMAZATO Ferdinand Bolstraat 333   +31 (0)20 - 678 74 50

Tucked away from the hubbub of the city streets, Yamazato is housed within the Hotel Okura Amsterdam and offers the very finest in Japanese Haute Cuisine. The restaurant is designed in the zen Buddhism-inspired Sukiya style: following rules of minimalism, symmetry and simplicity. Rice paper screens and lanterns, waitresses dressed in the traditional kimono and breathtaking views of their Japanese garden transport you away from Europe into the very heart of Japanese culture. The food prepared by Masanori Tomikawa and his team is unrivalled - produce is sourced from the waters and soil in Holland or elsewhere in Europe with a guarantee of perfect freshness. Certain items are even flown in directly from Japan with special care, if necessary.

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INCANTO Amstel 2 +31 (0)20 42 33 681

Venetian chef Simone Ambrosin offers classic and simple Italian cuisine in this intimate restaurant located on Munt Square. There is a third floor lounge where smoking is allowed and the main restaurant on the second floor has beautiful views overlooking the flower market and canals.

WHERE TO SHOP Head to De Negen Straaties (‘The Nine Little Streets’) for a mix of designer boutiques, cosy cafes, privately owned concept shops and vintage stores. Pieter Cornelisz (P.C.) Hoofstraat,

‘‘Take a boat trip over the canals in the evening and watch as the bridges light up.”

meanwhile, is Amsterdam’s answer to New Bond Street and offers everything from Cartier to Chanel. EE* particularly likes Azzurro where you can find a stunning handpicked selection of the likes of Prada, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Moncler.

‘‘Stop off for a coffee and visit the EYE Film Institute for cinematography.” EE* also likes Van Ravenstein (359 Keizersgracht), a short walk away from the Canal House Hotel, where you will find pieces by Carven, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Mary Katrantzou among others.

WHAT TO DO For rainy days, Amsterdam’s world-famous museums such as the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Hermitage and the Hendrikje Museum provide unparalled art and design collections. Visit the Anne Frank House but be sure to book tickets in advance to avoid long queues. For sunnier skies, take a boat trip over the canals in the evening and watch as the

bridges light up. In the daytime, explore the city by bike (hotels will recommend a nearby bike rental shop) and head to one of the beautiful parks such as the Vondelpark where you can cycle round the winding paths for miles in blissful silence.

‘‘Make sure you see the city’s famous bridges including the iconic Skinny Bridge which has been featured in several films.” Stop off for a coffee and visit the EYE Film Institute for cinematography, which is located in a large villa in a corner of the park. The institute not only has an archive of thousands of films, ranging from the very first silent movies to contemporary digital film, but also organizes daily screenings of classic and art-house movies as well as open-air screenings in the summer. Make sure you see the city’s famous bridges including the iconic Skinny Bridge which has been featured in several films and the Python Bridge – an unusual 93-metre red snake-like bridge between Sporenburg and Borneo island. EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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SKI BREAK GENEVA/MEGÈVE A luxury take on ski-in, ski-out

If you’re thinking there’s no time to squeeze in your customary skitrip this year, think again. Le Richemond Hotel in Geneva brings you a door-to-slope service to ensure that you get your fill of the mountains - however brief – in luxury style. This Exclusive Ski Butler service is perfect for high-flying businessmen and women or simply time-pressed travellers who are thirsty for some mountain air. OLIVIA BURTON brings you a luxury ski escape to Megève … THE LOWDOWN: Exclusive Ski Butler at Le Richemond, Geneva Le Richemond Hotel in Geneva is offering a unique ‘Ski Butler’ package for guests who are big on ski, but short on time. Even if you are only in Geneva for a few days, perhaps on business or for a quick weekend getaway, you can still take full advantage of the glamorous ski resort of Megève. Le Richemond is offering their own personal ‘Ski Butler’, who will chauffeur guests to and from the stunning ski village of Megève, just 45 minutes away, providing all equipment and lift passes, so that you can take full advantage of the 300km of pistes with minimal hassle. Before going home, you can admire the mountains as you are driven by Calash (horse-drawn carriage) through the beautiful village and lavished with champagne and Swiss chocolates. Back at the hotel, a 30-minute spa treatment is also included, so you can relax and unwind before the journey home. 132

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‘‘Relax and unwind’. DETAILS: Date: from the 3rd December - 30th March 2012 Package: One night at Le Richemond Hotel, for 2 people: from 1,539 CHF Included in the package: Transfer with chauffeur, ski pass, equipment, ride by calash, a Champagne Deutz box, La Cuillère Suisse chocolate, back to the hotel, a 30-minutes treatment at The Spa Le Richemond and dinner in Le Jardin restaurant

LE RICHEMOND SPA: The elegant 400 sq metre Spa at Le Richemond offers everything from aromatherapy and chromotherapy to beauty treatments and massages, for

‘‘Le Richemond is offering their own personal ‘Ski Butler’, who will chauffeur guests to and from the stunning ski village of Megève.”

both men and women. Their team of experienced therapists work with the world-renowned brand Shiseido to deliver immediate and lasting results.

GENEVA HIGHLIGHTS: O’SAVEURS – a short walk from the hotel where you will find the world’s most delicious chocolates – must try the passion fruit truffles BRASSERIE LIPP - housed in the centrally-located Confederation Centre, a perfect spot for lunch to enjoy wonderful food amidst the glamorous crowd BONGENIE – Geneva’s miniature answer to Harvey Nichols, here you can find small collections of the likes of Balenciaga, Chanel, Helmut Lang, Iro, Maje, Sandro … VILLAGE – a one-stop concept store and a feast for the eyes. Here you can find quirky feats of interior design, vast glossy coffee table books, eclectic jewels, a sumptuous collection of Isabel Marant and Givenchy amongst other well-known brands, as well as Serge Lutens perfume and NARS makeup APOLLINAIRE

– just set back from the lake on rue de Rhone here you can find jawdropping designs by Jil Sander and Tsumori Chisato as well as other lesser-known designers

‘‘Before going home, you can admire the mountains as you are driven by Calash through the beautiful village and lavished with champagne and Swiss chocolates.” LE SOLEIL ROUGE – a tiny tapas bar

with delicious food, excellent wines and a fantastic atmosphere around the 7pm mark

L’ENTRECOTE – world-renowned for their no-nonsense approach to good steak and THE ‘secret sauce’, Geneva’s L’Entrecote is arguably the best of the group: be transported back in time to a traditional French eaterie where the waitresses in their white aprons take orders in military fashion and no menus are required. Be prepared to queue outside in peak hours GLOBUS – Forget the floors of fashion and beauty, come here for the food halls – extortionately expensive but simply too exquisite to resist JAVA – descend as a VIP into the depths

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ISLAND GETAWAY

COCOA ISLAND

Nothing short of paradise … Fed up with the blistering cold and desperate to escape to a far-off island where you can lie in the heat of the sun, swim in turquoise waters or stroll along deserted white beaches? Look no further than the exclusive and wonderfully private Cocoa Island. OLIVIA BURTON brings you the COMO resorts answer to heaven on earth…

THE VICINITY – THE MALDIVES The Maldives is made up of a string of tiny pearly white islands amidst turquoise waters – each island no more than a few kilometres across, most even smaller. Other miniature islands sit just beneath the surface of the ocean and form frothy smudges amidst the blue.

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THE ISLAND Cocoa Island, known locally as Makunufushi, is located among South Malé’s coral atolls. One great advantage to the resort is that guests don’t need seaplanes to access the island; instead one can take a 40-minute speedboat transfer directly from the international airport on Malé (the main island). In addition, Cocoa is located in the opposite direction to the majority of resorts (concentrated in the North Malé atoll), which makes for a quieter and more peaceful area.

The island is long and thin – about 350 metres long – with sand snaking out into a perfect spit that disappears with the evening tide. The natural landscape has not been interfered with, and the island features palms, wild sea grapes and hibiscus. The house reef, which encircles Cocoa, delineates a gin-clear lagoon that’s rich with sealife, including ray and baby sharks. It is a sea without currents, making Cocoa Island an ideal choice for families.

‘‘The natural landscape has not been interfered with.”

THE RESORT Cocoa Island is no rustic island hideaway. Singaporean architect Cheong Yew Kuan (who has also designed for two new COMO Hotels and Resorts, Uma Ubud in Bali, and Uma Paro in Bhutan) has deliberately kept the design sophisticated and restrained and has created clean-lined, contemporary interiors more reminiscent of a Hamptons beach hut than your usual Maldivian hotel.

offshore on the southern side of Cocoa, overhanging the lagoon, looking out upon calm indigo waters. They offer spacious living areas and private sundeck s for lounging in the sun in privacy or eating al fresco. Some have full length glass windows looking out over the lagoon. Villas come with a personalized butler service and all rooms are granted access to their own book, CD and DVD library.

The rooms are reached by planked walkways and the rooms themselves have high raftered ceilings, glossy teak flooring and sleek interiors.

‘‘look out upon calm indigo waters.”

‘‘Contemporary interiors more reminiscent of a Hamptons beach hut than your usual Maldivian hotel.” Each of the 33 rooms – which include eight Dhoni Suites, nine Dhoni Loft Suites, ten Loft Villas, four One-Bedroom Villas and two two-bedroom COMO Villas, sit

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‘‘The COMO Hotels and Resorts consider cuisine to be a crucial part of the guest experience.”

EAT, DRINK AND UNWIND The UFAA restaurant (meaning ‘happy’ in Maldivian) – The COMO Hotels and Resorts consider cuisine to be a crucial part of the guest experience and, as such, you will not be disappointed in UFAA. Chef Raffaele Dadone serves the finest of modern Indian and Mediterranean

‘‘It is a sea without currents, making Cocoa Island an ideal choice for families.”

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cuisine, using fresh local produce. The FARU Bar - sits adjacent to the stunning 25 metre infinity-edge lip pool. While away the hours, with a cocktail to hand, watching the sun go down over the crystal clear waters. The COMO Shambala Retreat – Cocoa

‘‘The Maldives is made up of a string of tiny pearly white islands amidst turquoise waters.”

‘‘The rooms are reached by planked walkways and the rooms themselves have high raftered ceilings, glossy teak flooring and sleek interiors’’.

There is an open-air yoga pavilion where you can learn from yoga master Pramod Kumar, a stunning hydrotherapy pool, steam rooms (separate male/female), meditation and relaxation areas, as well as a gym which is fully equipped with weights and cardio equipment. The Dive Centre, meanwhile, caters for all levels of SCUBA enthusiast, but you can also go snorkeling in the marine-rich lagoon. Cocoa Island has highly qualified instructors on island to lead dives, as well as provide tuition for beginners. State-of-the- art equipment is provided. Beyond Cocoa,

there are a number of private excursions available. Island-hop and enjoy beachside picnics. Follow dolphins from the prow of a privately chartered dhoni. explore Malé, its markets and shopping possibilities. Or simply rest and relax amidst the calming silence.

‘‘Sand snaking out into a perfect spit that disappears with the evening tide.”

island’s luxurious spa offers Asian-inspired holistic therapies developed by COMO Shambhala, which includes reflexology, Ayurveda, massage and facials.

FACILITIES For the actively inclined Cocoa Island offers an extensive, and exotic, range of activities:

‘‘While away the hours, with a cocktail to hand, watching the sun go down over the crystal clear waters.” EL ESTILO* / MARCH 2012

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Chanel SS12 Backstage by Benoit Peverelli