Lale may june 2017

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MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL

05 MAY-JUNE 2017

SUMMER BREEZE Cool off in Erdek

MARIJKE JORDENS

TRADITIONAL WEAVES MEET MODERN DESIGN

FRIENDSHIP OVER THE YEARS The friends you make, the friends you keep

Kiss, Bow or Shake Hands Cultural Challenges of Doing Business in Turkey



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CONTENTS MAY-JUNE 2017

LALE NEWS

4 SOCIETY Sirkeci, Rahmi Koç, Neda’s Storytime, Easter Egg Hunt, Picnic, French Baking Class 14 BUSINESS NETWORKING The Art of Doing Business in Turkey

16 SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITYC@rma Calling 18 LEGAL Wills and Trusts 19 WELLNESS Get Some Shut-Eye 47 EVENTS Spring into summer with our new activities

LALE FEATURES

22 INTERVIEW Shahla Raza is helping immigrants make

LALE REGULARS

3 LETTERS FROM THE EDITOR AND CHAIR 56 BOARD NEWS 57 COMMUNITY 58 MUMS ’N KIDS 60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS 62 SPECIAL OFFERS

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a new home

26 CITY Istiklal’s storied past 30 GOURMET A Taste of Italy in Moda 38 NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR Visit UNESCO World

Heritage site Balat

LALE LIFESTYLE

32 CLUBS IWI’s book clubs read the fine print 33 BOOKS Review of Euphoria and A Strangeness in My Mind

34 FASHION Designer Marijke Jordens 36 RELATIONSHIPS Make New Friends But Keep the

Old

42 TRAVEL Cool Off in Erdek 45 MUMS ‘N KIDS An Interview with Eden’s Garden

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LALE BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day Adres/ Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 705 6215 www.iwi-tr.org Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027 İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adres/ Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.04.2017 Sayı: 86 Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul Cover Picture by: Verena Ringe

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IWI BOARD MEMBERS Chairwoman

Anna Ilhan

chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

Vice Chairwoman

Vacancy

vicechair@iwi-tr.org

Treasurer

Leen Saket

treasury@iwi-tr.org

Secretary

Jeanette von AlvenslebenNiethammer

secretary@iwi-tr.org

Membership Coordinator

Elena Sklyarskaya membership@iwi-tr.org

Lale Editor

Monisha Kar

lale@iwi-tr.org

Advertising Coordinator

Leyla Stang

advertising@iwi-tr.org

Sponsorship Coordinator

Gülşen Şahin

sponsorship@iwi-tr.org

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

ncm@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (European side)

Ayşe Yücel

newcomerseurope@iwi-tr. org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side)

Gabriele Sailer

newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

Events Coordinator

Vacancy

events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Coordinator

Wendy Chan

charity@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Coordinator

Fiona Slay

programs@iwi-tr.org

Marketing Coordinator

Nadine Opitz

marketing@iwi-tr.org

Communications Coordinator Sibele Valsani

communications@iwi-tr.org

Business Networking Coordinator

Halima Hodzic

networking@iwi-tr.org

Schools Liaison Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

schools@iwi-tr.org

Volunteers Coordinator

Anna Mozejko

volunteer@iwi-tr.org

Mums N’ Kids Coordinator

Lyubov Gürler

mumsnkids@iwi-tr.org

Venue Coordinator

Merle Klehn

venue@iwi-tr.org

Advertising Administrator

Vacancy

advertising@iwi-tr.org

Newsletter Administrator

Suzy Kaluti

newsletter@iwi-tr.org

OTHER IWI TEAM MEMBERS

Website Administrator

Marketing Team

website@iwi-tr.org

Social Media Administrator

Marketing Team

socialmedia@iwi-tr.org

Lale Deputy Editor

Ruth Terry

lale@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Team Members

Olga Dundar, Kathleen di Giacomo, Alexis Harvey

programs@iwi-tr.org

Sponsor Support Administrator

Ginatare Nemanyte

sponsorsupport@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Administrator

Dusty Kara

charity@iwi-tr.org

Business Networking Administrator

Julia Bayram

networking@iwi-tr.org

Further vacant positions can be found on page 56


LALE

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Istanbul streets have always been alive with pedestrians, and you’ll notice that more people are emerging from their hibernation to enjoy the increasingly sunny days of early summer. When one thinks of Istanbul, the iconic Istiklal Street in Beyoğlu immediately comes to mind. Take a walk through history with our City feature on page 26. More than just a shopping destination, you’ll come away with a new appreciation on the area. One section of town is getting more foot traffic from locals and tourists alike. It isn’t unusual to run into multiple groups clicking away with their cameras in the picturesque Balat area on the historic Golden Horn. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, influences from Greek, Armenian and Jewish populations can be seen throughout the neighbourhood. Within Balat, you can find the Yusra Community Center serving the needs of local women and children, especially those displaced by war. Read about the inspirational Shahla Raza in our Interview piece on page 22. Through film and community activism, she has spent her life not only bringing awareness to the disenfranchised, but has actively created infrastructure and support to empower them. Warmer weather also means more outdoor festivals. The Handmade Istanbul Market has become a popular fixture in the city. Here is where you can find local artisans selling everything from homemade edible treats, to home décor to jewelry and clothing - all with their personal touch. Encouraging and supporting these talented artists is key to building and maintaining a vibrant and creative community. In our Fashion article on page 34, we talk to one of these handmade artists - Belgian designer Marijke Jordens - who has a passion for traditional textiles. She is helping keep these ancient arts alive by incorporating these materials into her accessories and clothing. Finally, check out the programmes lined up for May and June on page 48. The team has outdone themselves with a new roster of interesting classes, tours and treks. One of the highlights of the season will be our Annual Summer Lunch at the elegant and award-winning Topaz restaurant. We’ve been able to secure a special prix-fixe menu and it is sure to be memorable. We are certain you will find something in the calendar to pique your interest – sign up, tell your friends, bring a guest – we want to see you! MONISHA KAR Lale Editor

A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR

The tulips have bloomed and spring has sprung (as they say). This time of year in Istanbul is one of my favourites. The dark dreariness of winter has passed; and the bright green buds of leaves start to pop open. The local municipalities take great care in planting flowers for the season throughout the city; and the smell of freshly cut grass and sweet fragrance of lilacs makes me smile as a flood of childhood memories come to mind. In a way, the changing of the seasons represents the changing of the times; and we just need to stop for a minute and appreciate the beauty of the moment. Istanbul is truly a beautiful city that continues to amaze me. Spring does not last for long as summer will be here soon. With summer comes the heat but the evenings are perfect. I really enjoy having friends over for dinner and hanging out in our little garden oasis in the middle of Istanbul. There are many things to love about this city; and just as many to frustrate you. However, being the optimist, I focus on the good and see the tulips and daffodils in the well maintained boulevards as the car horns blare. I know many of our members will be leaving for the summer (or part of) to visit family and friends back home - which is fun and exhausting at the same time. Therefore, safe travels my friends; I look forward to seeing you again when you return. And for those like me staying the summer in this crazy, amazing city we currently call home; let’s meet up for an iced coffee soon. Warmest Regards, Anna ILHAN IWI Chairwoman

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: KATHERINE BAKER AND SUSIE ATEŞ

SIRKECI: SMALL MUSEUMS AND MORE

Sirkeci is one of Istanbul’s oldest quarters, and with its interesting small museums, it makes an ideal walking tour. Highlights included visiting the Turkish Republic’s first bank, which now exhibits oil paintings and objects and machines linked to the postOttoman economy. Participants also took in the elegant Post Office museum and surrounding areas

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

RAHMI KOร : MIRROR OF THE INDUSTRIAL LEGACY IWI members visited the Rahmi Koรง Museum, situated on the banks of the historic Golden Horn. The museum is the first in Turkey dedicated to the history of Transport, Industry and Communications. The collection contains thousands of items from graphomophone needles to olive presses to full-size ships and aircraft. Not to be missed, the group dined at the beautiful Cafe Levent,which is modeled after a Parisian brasserie and sits in an old stone lengerhane (a building used for casting anchors and chains for the Ottoman navy)

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR AND COURTESY OF EDEN’S GARDEN PRESCHOOL

STORYTIME AT NEDA’S AND EASTER EGG HUNT AT EDEN’S GARDEN The IWI Mums ‘N Kids have had a busy spring! They enjoyed storytime at Neda’s cosy storyshop, followed by painting and open play. With the scrumptious baked activities goods, no one left hungry! Eden’s Garden Preschool was hopping with activity during their Easter Egg Hunt in Yeniköy. Children and parents alike enjoyed the lovely green space and activities

Eden’s Garden

Neda’s

Neda’s

Eden’s Garden

Neda’s

Eden’s Garden

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Neda’s

Eden’s Garden


PHOTOGRAPHY: NCMs

LALE SOCIETY

WOMEN’S DAY WALKATHON IWI celebrated International Women’s Day with neighbourhood walks across the city. All 11 Neighbourhood Community Meetup (NCM) areas participated, and over 81 members took part in the event! Thanks to the generosity of the group and other donors, we raised 3,000 TL for Europa Donna. Europa Donna (Turkey) is part of a Europe-wide coalition of affiliated groups of women that facilitates the exchange of pertinent information concerning breast cancer through the different cultures it represents

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: NCMs

TIP-TOE THROUGH THE TULIPS AT EMIRGAN PARK

The Neighbourhood Community Meetup groups (NCMs) got together for a potluck picnic at Emirgan Park. They were graced with sunshine, good company and, of course, a colourful array of tulips

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www.dentbeaute.com

CLINIQUE DENT beauté Clinique Dent Beauté is one of the most advanced purposebuilt dental clinics in Istanbul and it is JCI, ISO 9001: 2008, DAR (Deutscher Akkreditierungs) certified. We have been providing world-class dental treatment since 1995. Our new clinic which opened in 2008 is conveniently located in Istanbul’s financial district, set amongst the city’s skyscrapers. The nearest metro station is just two minutes away which allows for ease of access. Clinique Dent Beauté specializes in cosmetic dentistry, smile design, implantology, sinus lifting, periodontal surgery, metalfree porcelain crown and bridges, bleaching, restorative dentistry, periodontal treatment and cosmetic solutions. Aesthetic dentistry entered a new period in the 2000s. The harmony between the facial tissue and dental structure became very important. Therefore, for a beautifully designed smile, Dent Beauté applies laser treatment in addition to common dentistry applications.

Our goal is to deliver the highest quality care in a relaxing environment. Upon arriving at the clinic, our guests will find a calm and stylish milieu. In our lobby, you will be welcomed with light colours and friendly décor. There is multimedia equipment and broad-band internet connection for your entertainment. You can combine your treatment with sight-seeing, exploring the wonders of Istanbul, participating in cultural events and of course – shopping. The best shopping malls in Europe are only a five-minute drive from our clinic. Our clinic is open 6 days a week and houses a team of professional dentists who treat patients from all over the world, especially from Europe and the United States.

Patients can feel confident that they will receive the best clinical care at Clinique Dent Beauté. We pride ourselves on our professionalism and top-quality work. Our highly-trained staff performs a thorough diagnosis prior to treatment and they use the latest techniques and clinical equipment during surgery to ensure the best outcome.

Bilim Sokak. Sun Plaza Zemin Kat Maslak - Istanbul - Turkey 0212 222 93 93 || info@dentbeaute.com

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNA SOELBERG

THE GREAT BAKE-OFF

The bakers among us had a wonderful opportunity to sample a taste of France with Sylvie during a hands-on French baking class. Sylvie has been sharing her talents across Istanbul and creating delicious and stunning patisserie offerings for many famous restaurants in the city. Participants learned how to make a Paris-Brest, Nutella Brioche and Canneles. You can check out Sylvie’s work on Facebook at “Symphonie Sylvie” and look for more opportunities through IWI to attend her popular classes

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LALE NETWORKING

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

CULTURAL CUSTOMS AND CHALLENGES OF DOING BUSINESS IN TURKEY

Recently, IWI hosted a Business Studio session discussing cultural customs and doing business in Turkey. The panel included Gizem Meral, an International Investment and Trade Adviser and Business Networking Coordinator for Internations; Ayla Akin, executive coach; and Şerif Yenen, Travel and Tourism expert and owner of Cultural Interactions Point. They provided insight on how to improve your cultural quotient and successfully navigate some of the challenges foreigners face in prospective business partnerships NETWORKING AND GETTING THAT FIRST MEETING If you are introduced to someone who could be a potential business partner, how do you follow-up and secure that initial meeting? It is something that many foreigner struggle with. “Turkish people are very relationship-oriented. So, you can’t expect that you will be able to ask for anything upon an initial introduction. You have to spend some time with this person and establish a rapport, and that gives you an opportunity to ask if they would be OK to meet and talk about a potential business relationship,” said Ayla. As a skilled networker, Gizem cited that to have a memorable conversation and interaction, you need to spend at least seven minutes with someone. “When you meet for the first time, mention your name, and as you wrap-up your conversation, mention your name again. In networking, your seed words are very important. Seed words can be your service, product, value, and they are expressed in the form of a story. So, whenever people think of these words – they will remember you. For example, one of the guests had a line of organic skincare products for mums and kids. An example of a compelling introduction could be ‘After becoming a mother, I found that it was difficult to

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find good organic skincare products for my child’ this tells a story, it shows you are a good mother, you are caring, and that you came up with the organic idea. Then, you could provide statistical information that drives home your seed words, e.g., ‘In Turkey, studies show that only 40% of people use organic skincare products, which is much lower than in Europe. I think this is a growing business, and one of my goals is for people to have access to organic products’”.

When you share your passion and values sincerely, it shows. You will see that before you ask someone for a meeting, the person you are talking to will ask you for a follow-up meeting. THE FIRST MEETING Once you get that first meeting, it is more about establishing that social connection than it is about making the business connection. “Guests are held in high esteem in Turkish culture - especially foreign guests. Let Turks invite you to their homes, or eat out together, or you invite them somewhere. If you start by offering your friendship, the rest will come easier”, said Şerif. Ayla added, “When you know the agenda before-hand – that you will be

discussing your product or service, you introduce yourself, make some small talk, then make your presentation. But if you are meeting with someone whom you just met at a networking meeting, then you need to find something in common with the person you are meeting with. For example, if you go to the person’s office – you scan the office and look for indicators that will help you to break the ice – whether it is a photograph, a book, a piece of artwork on their wall. Psychologically, when people see that they have something in common with another person, they feel more comfortable with them and are more likely to open up.” Do your research ahead of time and get a sense of what you may expect during your meeting. GIFT-GIVING The subject moved to gift-giving, as in eastern cultures, this is a common practice both socially and in business. Recently, the practice of giving gifts has changed in that you wouldn’t always necessarily bring a gift to someone in a business setting. If you are working with someone in the government or ministries, because they are accustomed to receiving gifts, it is OK to bring something small, like a box of chocolates or pen. If you have an established business relationship


LALE NETWORKING with someone, it is appropriate to send something at Bayram or New Year’s such as a promotional item with the company logo like an agenda. If you are close, then perhaps you can send a gift which is personalised and is something that the receiver values. If a particular topic came up during a meeting – whether music, food, history, sports– you can choose a gift that reflects that person’s interest. For example, a thoughtful gift could be (reasonablypriced) tickets to a sporting event, or a concert, or it could be a book. It could even be making a connection to someone else who could help them. These gestures show you care, and paid attention to what that person said. It shouldn’t be a calculated move and should come naturally. A small token can go a long way to win the hearts of potential clients. Keep in mind that the gift should not be too expensive as the receiver may feel obligated to reciprocate. Others may feel that you are flaunting your wealth and it could sour the relationship. EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE AND PROVIDING FEEDBACK While you find that the outward expression of emotions is very common in Turkey, giving feedback in a manner that does not offend someone’s feelings can be difficult. Going back to the idea of honouring your guests and making people comfortable, this extends to respecting your elders and being nice to everyone. As a result, you cannot be too direct in your communication style. Some people may misinterpret your feedback as wanting to start a fight, or that you are angry with them. Therefore, if you want to establish or improve your relationship with someone, you need to understand that there is not just one way to communicate. You need to adapt your communication style because you will not change a person or an entire culture. Ayla suggested, “When providing feedback, you should create an environment where the other person does not feel threatened. You should highlight the positive behaviour that you are observing, and remove any emotional or judgmental language by addressing how the consequence of their actions affects you or other people. Then, ask them to help you understand their logic or rationale for their decisionmaking process”. The subject of the feedback is the work – not them, so by understanding their thought process and point of view, you can determine a mutually acceptable solution together. If you go in with that approach, it

will help them do their job better and improve your working relationships. Another helpful suggestion is being very clear about expectations at the onset of a project or agreement. Taking time to summarise the request, how and when it will be completed and discussing any obstacles they may anticipate will go a long way in minimising misunderstandings or delays and allow for better collaboration and transparency.

funerals today, there are tables for nonprofit organisations, and if you make a donation, your name gets put on a board, and the funeral organisers take note of who donated. If you happen to make a product that is consumable – like food, or bakery items – it is a nice gesture to offer them. These are appreciated – especially at funerals where the family receives guests at their home and may not have time to prepare things in advance.

CLOSING THE SALE If you are used to closing deals quickly, the sales process in Turkey may frustrate you. Closing a deal can take up to a full year. So how do you know how many times to follow up and when to know you have a hit a dead-end? For some clients, they don’t have a clear answer in their mind, and out of politeness/not wanting to say ‘no’, they don’t commit or ask you to follow up later. If you want to extend the relationship without pressuring them, then call every 15 days or once a month. Invite them to lunch, and get their thoughts on your product or service and problem solve together. Everyone likes to be an advisor and this shows that you value their insight. Another catalyst for action is to share your other clients’ success stories as evidence of the value of your product or service.

PAYMENT Not getting paid right away can be a fact of life in Turkey. What is the best way to ask for payment? Gizem said “Don’t be shy – this is what you earned, but don’t expect that you will get an immediate answer. Depending on the sector, it could take two-three months to receive payment for a service”. Before someone accepts a product and service at a particular price, it needs to be written down. Once they accept the business, they accept the payment conditions. Then, when you follow up, you can refer to that written agreement. Since bartering and discounts are an important part of the culture, you have to approach the subject and ask in a way that is not insulting to both parties. Remember, oral promises are important in Turkish culture. If you verbally agree on a specific price for a product or service, and shake on it, you don’t retract your offer later. If you are unable to draw up the paperwork immediately to gather signatures, you can follow-up with an email. If you can, it is better to have a third-party handle payment details. If you want some assurance that the other party is serious, it is ok to ask for a deposit ahead of time, and remember that if you are paying for a service, set up payment terms that protects both parties. For example, don’t pay in full at once in case there are delays or mistakes. Consider retaining some of the payment at the end of a transaction in case something is not done properly. You can also put penalties if payment is late or insufficient, understand what is typically protocol in your sector and what your competitors are doing.

THE IMPORTANCE OF FAMILY As mentioned previously, relationships are very important in Turkish culture and in doing business, preference is given to family or friends. However, you can make a positive impression when it comes to special events. Births, weddings, even the death of a family member, are an opportunity to extend and deepen the client relationship. For example, funerals are a big deal here. “Many people advertise and announce the death of a family member because the number of people who attend indicates your social status in the community”, Serif said. It may be surprising to hear that you can also get business at a funeral that you attend. It is considered networking, because as a person representing a company, you are seen as serious, and thoughtful – that you are taking care of all of the client’s needs. It is possible that other guests will notice that as well, observe you interacting with someone important, and take note. In these situations, you would not send a bouquet of flowers– you send a large wreath of flowers. If you are part of a small company – you don’t have to do that, but you should go to the funeral to pay respects. At

Good Luck!

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LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY FEATURE: WENDY CHAN PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF HILANEH MAHMOUDI AND FAY MAGNUSSON

CONNECTING CHANGEMAKERS With an increased interest in social responsibility and civic-mindedness, more and more people are starting non-profit ventures and looking for ways to contribute their skills and talent to make a difference in their community. Enter C@rma, the brainchild of former investment banker Sandrine Ramboux. Through C@rma, resource-strapped organisations are connected with skilled volunteers to help drive mission-critical projects forward. Wendy Chan spoke with Sandrine to learn more

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onprofit organisations support a wide range of causes in Turkey, often with little in the way of resources and manpower. Most operate on shoestring budgets. As a result, small nonprofits often do not have the capacity to focus on internal strategy and operations that might help them grow, become more sustainable, and ultimately benefit more people.

C@rma was formed after Sandrine tried to find ways to volunteer and use her skills to help nonprofits in Istanbul. From her experience, Sandrine realised that small nonprofits had almost no resources to spend on analysing ways to foster organisational growth that would enable them to benefit more people. Even if they had ready and willing volunteers, many had little time to think about how to utilise and manage them.

To help bridge this gap is C@rma, an innovative social enterprise in Istanbul that harnesses the skills and expertise of volunteers to support organizations with diverse social missions.

Sandrine saw an opportunity to help nonprofits identify their organisational needs and find efficient ways that volunteers could help address these needs. And thus C@rma was born.

C@rma was founded by Sandrine Ramboux, an exinvestment banker originally from Belgium and currently living in Istanbul. Lale magazine profiled Sandrine last year in the May/June 2016 issue. Now, a year later we turn the spotlight to C@rma, which Sandrine launched in 2014. HELPING NONPROFITS GROW C@rma works closely with nonprofits to identify their organisational needs, and helps determine what projects are needed to address issues and facilitate growth. Once the projects are framed, C@rma connects the nonprofits with a network of skilled volunteers who help implement the projects. All for free.

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With a core team of just five volunteers including Sandrine, C@rma has worked with over 75 Turkish nonprofits in the three years since it was founded. To begin, C@rma typically conducts an overall organisational review, looking at the nonprofit’s finance, corporate governance, strategy, communications and customer relationship management system, website, information technology capabilities, and what the nonprofit hopes to achieve. As well, a stakeholder analysis and a review of the organisation’s strengths and weaknesses are done.


LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

Afterwards, C@rma works with the nonprofit to identify potential projects to help the organisation grow. C@rma ensures the projects are well defined and have clear scope. Usually, projects are framed so that they can be completed within one to two months in order to make it easy for volunteers to provide assistance. HARNESSING ENTHUSIASTIC VOLUNTEERS On the volunteer side, C@rma continually maintains a network of individuals with interest in donating their time and skills to assist nonprofits for free, or pro bono. To do this, C@rma developed a web-based platform to register volunteers and their skills, and allow people to see descriptions of current and past projects. Not all projects are posted on the site, as C@rma often uses the database to contact volunteers directly when their skills are relevant to particular projects. Registering on the website ensures volunteers stay in communication with C@rma about potential projects, as well as enables them to be notified about C@rma networking events. C@rma volunteers are diverse. They range from recent graduates, to working professionals, to people who have been out of the work force for a period of time. What they have in common is they are interested in lending their expertise, and perhaps developing new skills, while helping nonprofits support important causes. Separately, C@rma also develops relationships with companies interested in getting involved with nonprofits on short-term projects as part of their corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives. In this way, a company might provide 10 employees for four months to work on a project for 2-3 hours a week. Or, companies might send internal experts for C@rma organised brainstorming sessions to help nonprofits come up with ideas for specific needs. WIN-WIN FOR EVERYONE For volunteers, whether they are individuals or corporate CSR programs, C@rma provides the structure and projects to make it easy to donate their time and expertise. For nonprofits, C@rma finds knowledgeable experts to work on important internal projects. All of this is done pro bono with C@rma in the middle to manage the process and ensure that everyone’s time and energy are used efficiently.

Recently, C@rma helped Hayata Destek (Support to Life) an humanitarian aid agency focusing on emergency response and action. With the refugee crisis in Turkey, Hayata Destek was well positioned to deal with the influx of migrants. New funding quickly led to the agency growing from 30 people, to 300 people. Hayata Destek knew that managing a much larger organisation meant things had to change, but it was not clear how to do it. They needed help, but grant makers typically provide funding for projects only, and not for administrative needs like dealing with organisational change. As a result, Hayata Destek came to C@rma. C@rma found a professional organisational strategy consultant who worked pro bono for approximately four months to identify ways forward for Hayata Destek. For example, growing from 30 staff members to 300 meant they needed to move from an Excel spreadsheet to track employee data, to using an HR management tool. But which one? C@rma organised a brainstorming meeting with HR experts from corporate partners, as well as from large nongovernmental organisations. Together, the experts helped find the best HR system for Hayata Destek’s needs, as well as negotiate with the system’s provider on the implementation. In the three years since its establishment, C@rma has built countless relationships of trust and dialogue between nonprofits, corporations and skilled volunteers to support the good work of nonprofits and create lasting benefits in Turkish society. FEELING INSPIRED BY C@RMA AND WANT TO GET INVOLVED? C@rma is always looking for people interested in lending their knowledge, perspectives, time and enthusiasm to help nonprofits develop and advance their missions. Contact C@ rma through their website at www.4carma.com/en As well, in early May, C@rma is hosting its annual Pro Bono Week to raise awareness and bring together skilled professionals in support of Turkish nonprofits. A free pro bono drinks event is planned the evening of Thursday, May 11 and a full day Speed Dating event on Friday, May 12. For more information go to the C@rma website at www.4carma.com/en or follow them on Facebook at Contact C@rma.

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LALE LEGAL

FEATURE: AYŞE ERGEN

KNOW WHERE YOU STAND TURKISH LAWS ON INTESTACY, AND LAST WILL & TESTAMENTS (WILL) ADMINISTERED OUTSIDE TURKISH JURISDICTION In this global economy, many of us are choosing to live or retire abroad. Regardless of your decision, it is important to protect your assets. In the unfortunate event that you pass away in Turkey, legal expert Ayse Ergen explains how Turkish Inheritance laws deal with your assets as a foreigner More and more people all over the world are taking the decision to live in countries other than the one which they were born and brought up in. This of course means that they are acquiring movable and non-movable goods in both their home and destination country or countries as sometimes they have lived in a number of different places. As the title indicates, I will in this article discuss how Turkish Inheritance Laws will deal with your property as a foreigner regardless of whether you have a will or not. A will is a legal document that records and communicates a person’s final wishes, as pertaining to possessions and dependents. This is a legal declaration by which the testator (the person creating the will, names one or more person(s) to manage their estate and provide the distribution of their property upon their death. IF YOU HAVE A VALID TURKISH WILL Unless there is a dispute brought out against your estate, Turkish laws will honour your will. However, if a dispute is taken out against your estate, then Turkish laws of succession (The Law of International Private Law and Procedure) will be applied. However, how your property is dealt with depends on whether it is classified as movable (personal assets) or immovable property. PERSONAL ASSETS (SUCH AS MONEY AND JEWELLERY) Law of Succession Where the Subject is a Foreigner: Article 43 of the Law of International Private Law and Procedure (IPLP) (IPLP - The Law No. 5718 titled “International Private Law and Procedure” was adopted on 27 November, 2007, and provides that lawsuits of foreigners concerning succession should be resolved by the Court in the last place of domicile of the deceased. In practice, the above is referring to your home country. In the event of a foreigner passing away without a will in Turkey, the Turkish authorities will ask the deceased’s home country to deal with the administration of their personal assets. However, the case is very different with regard to immovable goods. IMMOVABLE ASSETS Article 54/1b of IPLP however, provides limitations in regards to immoveable goods. If you are a foreigner and you own immovable goods like real estate and land, only the succession Laws of Turkey will apply.

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INTESTACY (PASSING AWAY WITHOUT A WILL) There are a number of factors which will affect the manner in which your estate will be dealt with. The two main factors are whether the deceased was married, and whether the deceased had children, as under the Turkish law of Succession, the Courts apply the Parental System. If married, then the matrimonial regime provided for by the Turkish Civil Code dated 22 November 2001 provides that all assets (except personal assets) and assets acquired during marriage are considered as jointly owned. If one of the spouses dies, the matrimonial regime will be liquidated before the estate is determined. The surviving spouse has the right to demand liquidation and determination of the assets and he/she is able to designate their share within the marriage. As matrimonial assets are deemed to be owned equally, the surviving spouse will retain their 50% of the assets. Under this system, the first statutory heirs are the offspring of the deceased whom would receive the remaining 50% of the property in equal shares. If there is no legal spouse or offspring, second in line to be heirs are the parents of the deceased and their offspring, and the third in line to be heirs are grandparents and their offspring. If you and your partner are not married then unfortunately you will not be entitled to any property that does not bear your name on the deed poll (tapu). WILLS NOT ADMINISTERED UNDER TURKISH

JURISDICTION I have sometimes heard foreigners comment “I already have a will created in my country”. Though this will may be adequate to cover them for personal assets, the law is very clear, in that it will certainly not have any bearing in terms of immovable property. Your nationality will have no bearing on how the Turkish state deals with immovable property located in Turkey. The only way to control how your property is actually dealt with after your passing is by successfully administering a will. So, regardless of whether you are a foreigner or a dual national, it is advised you consider administering a will. If you would like further information or assistance, please contact us at info@askayse.com or visit our website at www.askayse.com


FEATURE: BURÇİN ÜNLÜ İNCE, PH.D.

LALE WELLNESS

SLEEP BETTER, FEEL BETTER 7 WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR SLEEP QUALITY

Do you toss and turn in your bed every night? Close your eyes and do your very best to fall asleep in vain while the hours pass? Then it might be good to read further, because insufficient sleep affects one’s health and quality of life. BURÇIN ÜNLÜ shares her advice on how to get a good night’s rest Sleep deprivation is not something new; it has been present for millennia. However, it is more common in the 20th century than ever before. Nowadays, we sleep one hour less every night compared to people in 1910, in part due to the increased use of electronic devices—and the blue light they emit—and long working hours and shifts. Unhealthy sleep habits, however, can have some serious consequences in our lives. Sleep deprivation can cause difficulties in daily performance, from decreased concentration on tasks to harmful errors, such as vehicle accidents. It has also been linked to physical diseases like hypertension and diabetes, as well as psychological disorders, including depression. More shockingly, it can even lead to mortality. Sleep is important to give your body and mind a proper rest. It is needed to recover, to recharge and to energise. It is clear that insufficient sleep can impair one’s life significantly. But how much sleep is enough? On average, seven to eight hours of sleep is enough for most adults. Sleeping well is not easy, but there are some tricks to improve your sleep quality. When applied daily, the following tips are clinically proven to help you sleep well and feel better: 1. Stick with fixed sleep and wake times: It sounds childish, but it really works. Go to bed at the exact same time every evening—even if you are not sleepy yet, and even on the weekends. Do not make any exceptions and stay strict with your schedule. The same for goes for getting up in the morning; wake up every day at exactly the same time. Being consistent will help to regulate your sleep-wake cycle

especially because you will eventually start worrying about why you can’t sleep. Break this vicious circle by writing down pressing thoughts and worries in a notebook before going to bed. Or write them down on a paper, and then put them in a box under your bed 5. Take time to relax your body and mind: Your body needs a pre-rest before sleeping. Meditation and yoga are excellent ways to relax. Exercises aimed at relaxing your body and slowing your breathing are simple ways to loosen up. Slow down with a bedtime ritual that feels good for you 6. Eat and drink well: A varied nutrition will help your body get the right energy during the day. Stop drinking or eating heavy things before bedtime. Don’t use caffeine, nicotine, alcohol or any drugs before going to bed 7. Stay active: It is important to get enough physical activity during the day. Twenty minutes is good, but more is better. Take a walk, do physical exercises or partake in sports These tips should help you improve your sleep quality. However, if you continue to have problems with sleeping, then it’s a good idea to seek professional help. Every person is unique, and so is every sleep problem. Burçin Ünlü İnce, Ph.D is a Clinical Psychologist. She is a Postdoctoral Researcher at METU University in Ankara and the founder of Interapia. She can be reached at burcin.ince@ interapia.com.tr

2. Make your room sleep-proof: For a good rest, a healthy sleep environment is a must. Darken your room when you are about to go bed and lighten it immediately when you get up. Discontinue stressful or hard work one or two hours before bedtime. Be sure you have a good mattress to sleep on. And when you lie in bed, don’t read or bring your phone or other mobile devices to bed with you. Still can’t fall asleep within 15 minutes? Leave the room and do something routine like cleaning. Then, go back afterwards and try to fall sleep again 3. Shut down your electronic devices one hour before bedtime: That means no Facebook or Instagram or ‘just checking my e-mail’. It is scientifically proven that the light from electronic devices, including televisions, has a negative influence on our sleep hormone, melatonin, which prepares our body for sleeping. LED lights also significantly suppress the body’s natural need and preparation for sleep 4. Stop worrying and empty your brain: Negative thoughts and excessive worrying can undermine your sleep. Worrying about daily problems is not helpful,

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SPONSORED FEATURE

THE CHEMISTRY OF LOVE

It is well known today that the feelings of love and passion are triggered by various chemicals in our body. There are many hypotheses as to where attraction and love come from, and different elements were assigned the ‘responsibility’ for our romantic feelings. Among these hypothetic ‘formulas’ there are 3 chemicals that definitely affect our feelings and emotions related to loved ones – and it has been scientifically proven.

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The chemicals responsible for behaviour of those in love are qualified as ‘neurochemicals’ that provide the interaction of neurons in human brain. Activity of these neurotransmitters is what causes our brain to function, it affects our thoughts and behaviour. The first spark of attraction is ignited by phenylethylamine,

norepinephrine and dopamine. In order for us to feel the real ‘love chemistry’ the combination of all three is needed. These neurochemicals make people in love feel happy and excited; racing heart, sweaty palms and flushed skin are also common. But how exactly does this ‘love formula’ work?

WAYS OF LOVE Phenylethylamine is a neurotransmitter known with its stimulating effects. Its main function is to release norepinephrine and dopamine in great amounts when we fall in love or feel great sympathy for a person. Dopamine is a neurotransmitter responsible for pleasure and satisfaction. It also triggers the feeling of connection and attachment. Dopamine is the very chemical that affects development of addiction to many drugs and pharmaceuticals. Norepinephrine stimulates concentration and makes our heart race. Its effects are similar to those of adrenaline, and when norepinephrine is released we feel excited and happy. Besides, norepinephrine may cause

hyperactivity and insomnia, affect our attention, short-term memory and motivation. When dopamine is released in great amounts it starts interacting with norepinephrine. The combination of the two causes all the signs of love to appear – excitement, energy boost, insomnia, loss of appetite and focused attention. Our body starts producing the ‘love potion’ using the combination of the three neurochemicals already in the first stage of falling in love. By the way, levels of serotonin also known as the ‘happiness hormone’ decrease in the brain of people who fall in love. These lower serotonin levels are the same as those found in people with obsessive-compulsive disorders.


SPONSORED FEATURE THE END OF THE ROAD? According to various research results, an average love lasts two or three years. As time passes the level of dopamine, norepinephrine and phenylethylamine necessary to keep the flames burning decreases. At this time lovers start noticing each other’s flaws and mistakes. Actually they do not change, it is their attitude that changes. They start seeing each other more objectively and evaluate their partner’s qualities in a more rational way. Now their love has two way to follow. Either it will end or develop into a much

more solid and strong feeling. If the couple chooses to continue their relationship, endorphins kick in, and the feelings of trust and security appear. Oxytocin, the hormone that stimulates release of endorphins is released when the couple is having sex, produces feelings of satisfaction and attachment. A sudden break up or ending of a relationship can be quite dangerous at times since due to stress and shock, our body releases considerably more norepinephrine which results in increased excitement, aggression, hysteria and heart rate.

NorepInephrIne A neurotransmitter that increases attention and the ability of our body to immediately react to external stimulate. Norepinephrine is the main transmitter in ‘fight-or-flight’ reactions, and a powerful vasoconstrictor. It stimulates release of glucose and ensures sufficient blood flow to the muscles.

Dopamine A neurochemical combination that can be released in various parts of human brain. It is responsible for many feelings and actions. Dopamine produces the feeling of bliss, which is its main peculiarity. The pleasure experienced after dopamine is released is what makes people come back to the source of this feeling over and over again.

PhenylethylamIne A chemical combination in human brain that has a stimulating effect. Phenylethylamine plays an important role in the process of love formation. It acts as a releasing agent of norepinephrine and dopamine, and the concentration of both neurochemicals increases.

+90 216 544 46 64 international@acibadem.com.tr www.acibademinternational.com

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LALE INTERVIEW

FEATURE: CAITLIN DIEBLER PHOTOGRAPHY: CAITLIN DIEBLER AND CİHAN SONÜSTÜN

VERILY WITH HARDSHIP COMES EASE

SHAHLA RAZA

A media and community development professional from India, Shahla has spent over 20 years giving voice to gender and development issues. Before she moved to Turkey, she founded and ran a learning centre in Mumbai for street and slum children. She has since turned her attention to Turkey and Istanbul, driven to make a difference in the lives of those displaced by conflict. Caitlin Diebler spoke to Shahla 22


LALE INTERVIEW

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here’s a certain discrepancy between feeling and doing. Empathy and compassion are good, but those sentiments only have power when they provoke a reaction. Shahla Raza left her home in India, traveling to Turkey’s most violent region to care for the world’s displaced. This dynamic woman of response then moved to Istanbul, where her intentional care for refugees led to the opening of Yusra Community Center. Yusra, meaning, “ease” or “comfort” in Arabic, serves local Syrian families in the Balat district of Istanbul.

children didn’t have a place where they could just sit down and read a book, or get a toy they wanted to play with. It started as a space for them to come and just be children, but we gradually developed a regular schedule where we would teach things through play. Now we have activities like art, dance, and science.

She has quickly made a name for herself in the community given her talent for mobilising people and resources. As her friend Maureen Gumuşmakas noted, “when I think of Shahla, I think of when she somehow found these huge bags of chickpeas and a lot of other free food, and she convinced me to rent a car and drive all around the city getting and delivering these supplies. She has such a passion that it makes you feel compelled to help. And, it isn’t just me who thinks this about her”. I spent a day at Yusra, watching Shahla orchestrate the community centre program. The children were fed falafel wraps upon arrival, and some were even given seconds if they so desired. Access to toys, puzzles, paper and crayons, numerous children had never even held a pencil prior to attending the centre. Shahla taught a short lesson in Turkish; she knew each Syrian child by name and a backstory of the traumatic experiences they have had. Volunteers then led the kids in craft time and I was able to interview Shahla, having a conversation that I felt could have lasted for hours.

What was life like in India, before moving to Turkey?

In India, I was a filmmaker for 20 years. When you’re making films, you see a lot of things that are happening in the country. For someone who has seen this kind of life, economic tragedy and deprivation, at such close quarters, I wasn’t satisfied just making films. I didn’t know if my films were bringing about any change. I wanted to get my hands on something that would allow me to see the change myself, even if it was change in a minor way. So, I opened a learning centre in Mumbai for children in our neighbourhood. These

How did you know moving to Turkey was what you were called to do?

It took a while before the Indian papers started to cover the refugee crisis. The concern in Syria was growing larger and larger. People were fleeing by masses to neighbouring countries such as Lebanon, Jordan and Turkey; they were suffering so much. It was like, when we hear about the Holocaust everyone thinks, ‘If I had been alive then, I wouldn’t have let this happen’. Yet, here we are in the midst of the most immense humanitarian crisis of our time and many of us aren’t doing anything. I was in a position to do something to help, and if I didn’t, I wouldn’t be a human being. The thing is, I feel like I was chosen. I was in the perfect opportunity where I was able to just get up and move. My daughter is studying in the States so I was free to relocate. I feel like a higher power has put me in a position to do this and directs my moves. I’m just an instrument.

How did the opening of a community centre in Istanbul actualize?

I started out traveling in Eastern Turkey. I volunteered at a refugee camp in Hakkari, and I saw what was happening. I went back to India for two or three months and at that point the eastern regions were getting violent. Bombs were being shot from across the border. I decided to come to Istanbul to see if there was something I could do here. I was

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told there were a lot of refugee families in the Fatih area of the city. At that point, winter was approaching and people needed warm clothes. Newly arrived families needed help with government registration; some were in need of hospital care. Other volunteers joined me and the movement got bigger. We started getting donations and my flat became somewhat of a storage depot. We would carry garbage bags full of clothes and food on our backs and go to houses and just give them out to people. The process became too labour-intensive, carting these things up and down the roads of Fener-Balat in the middle of winter. I rented a place in Balat that we could use as a distribution centre. I also wanted a space where the children could come, read books and play games instead of being on the streets. Yusra Community Center was opened on April 23, 2016, Children’s Day. We had 10 children the first day and 70 children the second day. Our space couldn’t accommodate 70 children and I noticed that many of them appeared to be of school age. The education system in Turkey

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LALE INTERVIEW is free, so we registered 40 to 60 children in the local schools. Yusra pays for the additional expenses: the school uniform, book bags, books and pencils -whatever they need.

What is a normal day like at Yusra Community Center?

The children come at 2.00pm and we feed them a meal. Classes start at 2.30pm. We speak to them in Turkish and get them familiar with the language through games, crafts, drawing, painting and flashcards. Some children have special development issues and need one to one attention. We have volunteers who sit with those children and work on their speaking and motor skills. We are open six days a week and I fall into bed exhausted at the end of each day. The children keep me going. They are the nicest, cuddliest things but they have endured so much ugliness in the world. The trust that the community has in me, and the other volunteers keeps me going also. Mothers are willing to drop their children at the door knowing they will be safe here. most important person in the world. In the words of Morgan Freeman in the film, Bruce Almighty, ‘How do you change the world? One random act of kindness at a time.’ It starts in our own neighbourhoods. If we just open up our minds to what is happening around us, we might be able to change the world. To volunteer, donate or for more information about Yusra, you can visit yusracommunitycenter.org and on Facebook@ yusracommunitycenter

What are some of the difficulties you have faced with the opening of Yusra?

Funding. In the beginning, it was a lot of my own funding. I worked for 20 years so I had some money saved up. We have had some incredible people donate but it’s nowhere near enough. The need is so great and there are things we are adding and expanding. I would love to add our women’s program back into the schedule. Maintaining volunteers is another difficulty. People want to help but they can’t just quit their job to volunteer. It would be great to have funding to pay them.

When you’re not at Yusra, what do you enjoy doing?

I love traveling. When I first came to Istanbul I wanted to travel but unfortunately, I haven’t been able to do that. The last two months I haven’t even been outside of Balat. I still want to go to Cappadocia and Pammukale. I love reading and I’m currently reading a book by Orhan Pamuk and many other books based in Istanbul. I love cooking Indian food for my international friends.

What can we do to make a difference?

In general, I think we’ve just lost kindness. We’ve become so me-oriented. Most of us live our daily lives as if we are the

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LALE CITY

FFEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: VERENA RINGE

A VISIT TO ISTIKLAL CADDESI More than just another shopping boulevard, Istiklal Caddesi has long been a centre of influence. Verena Ringe takes a look into the past of this storied street

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ext time you saunter down İstiklal Caddesi, observe and savour the rich history of this street. If some houses let you think of architectural connections with France, Belgium or Austria, let your mind stray to the early cultural exchanges between the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe. This street and the whole of the Beyoğlu District has been for almost 200 years the centre of European influence in art, politics and life style. This concentration of modern ideas in an otherwise often conservative and regressive lifestyle of the rest of the country is a remarkable feat. At present, İstiklal Caddesi appears just one of many shopping streets in Istanbul and not even one of its best. But this street embodies the history and emergence of the Ottoman Empire into a more western way of life, cultural and political.

Let’s start with its history. The Galata District of Constantinople and later Istanbul has always been the place of residence and business for foreigners to the country. The district broadens out to Karaköy and its harbour and warehouses and banks. But for the city dwellings, the

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rich merchants, and also the foreign diplomats, chose to occupy the district of Pera and Beyoğlu with its main street, İstiklal Caddesi. Along its 1.4 km long broad thoroughfare, several embassies, theatres and private residences arose around 1830. The Sultan himself modelled his new Palace in Dolmabahçe on European standards of engineering and aesthetics, when he moved from the old confines of the Saray in Sultan Ahmet. The new palace was constructed between 1843 and 1856, symbolising a break with old traditions and lifestyles and a clearly seen as a political and cultural move towards Western Europe. The upper classes always emulate its head of state and Beyoğlu is evidence that everyone of note believed in living within walking distance of the Palace. The old wooden houses were passé. The big fire of 1870 destroyed many buildings in Beyoğlu and along


LALE CITY

the Grand Rue de Pera, as İstiklal Caddesi was then named. As an example, so was the then famous Naum Theatre gone, where many European stars had performed and even the Sultan had attended performances. Also, the British Embassy building was totally reduced to ashes. Entrepreneurs and speculators saw profitable opportunities in the newly available plots of real estate and a number of shopping arcades were built, modelled on Parisian roofed passages. These were very elegant affairs, stuccoed ceilings, coloured glass domes, ornate lamps, columns and wrought

iron gates. The very well known “Çiçek Passage”, then called Hristaki Arcade, was built in 1876 on the rubble of the aforementioned Naum Theatre and housed among others, such modern premises as French haute couture to dress the ladies of the imperial Harem. It became a place for drinking and eating only after 1940 and due to disrepair had to be closed in the 1980s before being restored to its present beautiful ambience. The upper floors of these passages were very often grand buildings with wide apartments for members of high

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LALE CITY

society and aristocrats or even whole city palaces are thus found starting from the 1st floor. The layout of the street and Apartment buildings modelled themselves clearly on the new Paris, rebuilt by Haussmann. Now mainly offices, closed to the public, these rooms possess marble fireplaces, painted ceilings and wide staircases, even ballrooms. This construction boom left İstiklal Caddesi, with wonderful buildings if we but lift our gaze above the garish and often not very tasteful shop advertisements. Right alongside the Çiçek Passage, there is the stunning, well renovated Avrupa Passage with antique shops and jewellers, but the entrance from outside does not give a hint at its splendour. Then there are the Aslɪhan, Rumeli, Aznavur, Suriye, Aleppo, Hazzopulo and Markiz Passages. Some are unfortunately closed, hopefully but uncertainly awaiting repairs and renovations. Pera has still more churches in use than any other district in Istanbul or even Turkey. Of course there are other places of worship to be found, foremost mosques and synagogues.

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Into this very modern fabric of life along the Grand Rue de Pera, the ideas and concepts of Europe emerged strongly. The Ottoman Empire’s ministers realized that they needed more people educated along new guidelines, who could serve as civil servants of equal standing with the European diplomats. This idea crystallised in the form of the Galatasaray Lisesi, a state school with a curriculum encompassing engineering, mathematics, languages and the arts. Mainly for their own communities, other nations built their own schools. There were the large German High school, the French, Greek, Armenian and Italian ones all along İstiklal Caddesi, as well as the “The High school”, now Beyoğlu Anadolu Kɪz Lisesi, founded by an English couple to advance the English language. Apart from all of these buildings, there were of course many shops, restaurants, cafes, art studios and galleries. This street was called “Little Europe” for its entertainment and way of life.


LALE CITY Away from the architecture, Beyoğlu was where the politics of the day occurred. Diplomats from all over Europe attended the conferences about the Balkan States. The present exhibition at the Koç Museum has on show the caricaturist Franko Kusas, who was mainly a minister of the Ottoman Empire and involved with its policies and treaties concerning Eastern Europe. This exhibition is well worth seeing, not only for fine caricatures, but more importantly for the portrayal of the political concentration in Beyoğlu. A large map of İstiklal Caddesi and Beyoğlu shows the locations of residences of everybody involved. Diplomats, ministers, bankers and the intertwining personal relationships are highlighted in 60 locations. This interesting portrayal of the bygone days in Pera is also found in a very comprehensive book available about this exhibition. Embassies for the representatives of foreign nations were built right along İstiklal Caddesi at one end, near the old metro entrance, the Tünel, the Swedish Consulate was already established at 1793, where it still sits ornately in its garden behind beautiful iron gates. Then come the consulate buildings of Holland, Russia, Greece, Great Britain and France at Taksim Square. And on the hill of Gümüşsuyu, one finds the German Consulate with views up to and beyond the Dolmabahçe Palace. These lands were purchased by those nations, not rented or leased and the Consulates rest effectively still on their own ground. The Sabancɪ Museum in Emirgan hosts an exhibition of the painter Feyhaman Duran, called “Between Two Worlds”. Here too a map of İstiklal Caddesi is shown, but this time with the locations of art studios, galleries and art supply shops, amounting also to approximately 60 locations from 1890 to 1940. This exhibition shows the life and works of Feyhaman Duran in the changing world of a crumbling empire, two world wars and occupation by foreign powers and the rise of the Turkish Republic. Duran spent his youth and middle years as student and teacher in the Galatasaray High school right in the centre of this fascinating Street and his art is never fully old ottoman or fully European. This undoubtedly very talented painter seemed never to fulfil his potential, as he was torn between the old values and the new. As a portraitist, he was able to leave us some very fine work of many of the elite in Turkish society, including a fine portrait of Atatürk. His pastel images especially show fine nuances, colour ranges and sensitivity towards the personalities of the sitters . This exhibition includes many landscapes of the

shores of the Bosphorus and towards the end of his life, his works include excellent still-life and flower pictures. However, his paintings totally lack any of the modern influences of art, even impressionism, which he certainly encountered during his studies in Paris. But for those uncertain times Feyhaman Duran is a true representative, as the title of this exhibition clearly states. Both exhibitions, shown at the same time, give a wonderful view of life in Pera. The Grand Rue de Pera was renamed Istiklal Caddesi after the Turkish War of Independence and has had good and bad times. It has always symbolised the changing times of Turkish politics and growth. Taksim Square at its end was the obvious location for political gatherings over the last 50 years and has had its share of tragedy and unrest. And the AKM, the “Atatürk Kültür Merkezi”, which now sadly rots and decays at Taksim’s flank, was built on purpose exactly at the culmination of this very cultural and cosmopolitan street. The present state of road construction and building sites detract from its elegant beauty, but this Grand Rue de Pera, this Istiklal Caddesi may yet rise again to full glory.

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LALE GOURMET

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: MONICA FRITZ

A TASTE OF ITALY IN MODA As simple as the concept of pizza is, it is hard to get right, and based on the popularity of Pizzeria Il Pelicano in Moda, husband and wife owners Salvatore and Irmak Cannetiello are on to something special. Frequent customer and local expat guide Monica Fritz talked to them recently

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ast year when ordering a pizza, a funny thing happened; our pizzas arrived at our door in the hands of a thirdgeneration piazzaiolo from Napoli! Who would have thought that Salvo Cannetiello, the son and grandson of Da Gennaro pizzeria, would have ended up in the back streets of Moda? Lucky for me, they are in the neighbourhood and I had a chance to talk to Salvo and his wife Irmak about their journey. Four years ago, Salvo met his present wife while working for Rosso Pomodoro. He was a pizza chef and she was a cook. Ultimately, they decided to open their own pizzeria together. It’s been almost two years now since Pizzeria Il Pelicano in Moda opened for business.

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For Salvo, pizza-making is a family affair. His father, grandparents, and uncles are all in the business and he followed suit. In fact, the 80-year old Da Gennaro Pizzeria is well-known throughout Naples. “When I was young, after work, or on the weekends, I would go to the pizzeria and would see how they would enjoy working there. When I was eight years old, I used to take the dough and play with it. Then when I was 14 years old, I went to my father and said I thought school was not for me. I wanted to be a chef and start making pizza. One of my cousins taught me and that’s how I started, 16 years ago.”


LALE GOURMET

While the family pizzerias in Naples have a modern touch, it is still Neapolitan in style: simple, with photos of his grandfather on the wall from his travels around the world. “A pizzeria should be an easy-going place - not like in a restaurant when you are a little under pressure. You come here because we are your friends, we are your family: I’m not a pizza chef, she is not the owner. You spend a little time with us, talk, and at the same time you consume your dish. This for me is the concept of a pizzeria. You come to enjoy and relax, not to come to look at fancy furniture”. His wife Irmak concurs. “We have a lot of customers, and they have the choice to go to good restaurants but they don’t. They feel comfortable here, they like to talk to Salvatore about Napoli and football, etc. The first time people come, they are customers. The next time they come, they are friends. We are small and when you are small it is possible to have this type of atmosphere.” A good pizza is hard to resist, and their clients come from near and far. “Generally, on the weekends, people come from all over Istanbul. We have some customers from Tuzla, and there are Italians who live in Bursa who come on Sundays. At first we had people coming from Moda, then the word spread. When you do something well, people come from everywhere”, Irmak said.

“They come every two months with the mozzarella to let us taste it again because the animal feed changes, and we choose the series we want and they produce it for us. What we have for now is the best you can find here, Irmak added. As it often comes up in conversation with other expats, I ask whether Salvo ever thinks about going back to Napoli, or if he gets pressure to return. “Actually, when I was 16 years old I ran away from home. I once called my mother and told her I was going to Japan the next day for six months and then I travelled to America. My family is a traditional southern Italian family, but they got used to me moving around. My family now supports me; well - in front of me they support me, then they gossip with my sister. When I tell them something they always say I am right, but then they complain to her! But, that’s a hard question to answer: I’m not alone anymore, I decided to open up this pizzeria with my wife. Sometimes we talk about it, and we say, ‘why don’t we go to America’? Sometimes we think, ‘oh, what should we do’? For now, I’m really happy here”.

Naturally, the couple takes the sourcing of their ingredients seriously. “You need the freshest and the tastiest tomatoes, maybe organic, you need the best quality olive oil - that’s what Italian cooking is about”, Irmak said. They get their olive oil from the west coast of Turkey, in the Ege region. While they are pleased with the quality of local Turkish products, there are some things that can only be exported from Italy. “The tomatoes from near Vesuvio, the volcano, is where they are the best. The air, the soil - all of this makes the San Marzano tomato the best. You can find the best tomatoes only in San Marzano - not even in Napoli, and there is only a 4 km distance between them. I tried to import them but Turkish customs wanted to charge a 135% commission, which is their right since I would have been taking away from their production.” And what about the cheese? “For now, I am so happy because I think we have the best mozzarella, from the best company you can find here in Turkey, Salvo said.

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LALE BOOK REVIEW

FEATURE: MONISHA KAR

READING BETWEEN THE LINES A good book has the power to transport us to a place and time – to embody the character and lives of people completely different from us, and either confirm our beliefs or provoke us and challenge our assumptions. We are lucky enough to have not just one, but two official IWI books clubs. The first club is currently led by Lesley Tahtakiliç and is one of the longest running clubs in the organisation. Several years ago, Mary Akgüner came on board and is running the second book club.

Presently, there are 19 people who are on the registered regular membership list, and they typically have about 12 at each meeting. They meet in people’s homes one Monday morning per month. She found that the key to their success was to keep the group small, otherwise people would start to chat individually. However, because the group was getting so big, and there was continuous interest by new members to join, she decided to help start a new group – IWI Book Club 2. Mary Akgüner has been running the second book club for several years now. ‘We usually meet in people’s homes, and we try to get a very international list. They tend to have a more classical list of works. I like human interest, lately we have read some biographies - we have a quite a wide range of books that we read. We will have a local author’s book that we will discuss at the end of the year. We are a big group, and sometimes we do chat and don’t get into the book so much, but we do anticipate discussing the book. Sometimes we haven’t finished the book either, but you can come anyway, get an idea of the main themes of the book and get motivation to go on!”

“Several years ago, I was asked to take over the leadership of the club when the organiser was planning to leave. A couple of times I have suggested I step down and that someone else run it, but the group bought me a membership for a crossword club and in the end they persuaded me to stay! I enjoy it, but I feel guilty that it appears as if I am trying to hang on, but I do enjoy it. I enjoy writing the review. I used to be a teacher and do editing and translating. I am involved in anything to do with words”. ‘We don’t read specific genres - I take suggestions from members, compile them and send a list out to people with all of the suggestions. At the meeting we take a vote and decide what we will read. It is a very democratic process. Once we finish the book, we report back and provide a rating from 1 to 5. We even have overseas members, who for various reasons go back and forth from Turkey, and they even send their ratings from overseas and time their visits to take in one of our meetings”. IWI Book Club 1 reads 11 books and takes a break for the summer. After their last meeting of the year before their break, Lesley creates an overview of the books they read that year to share with the club.

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Since sourcing English language books can be a challenge, both groups plan their reading lists in advance so they can purchase the books on their trips away. Some members prefer to read on their kindles, while others have had success ordering through Amazon or even purchase their books locally. If your schedule prevents you from attending the book club – never fear - Lesley and Mary will be writing book reviews for the magazine on an ongoing basis. Keep an eye out for their columns, and perhaps you will find your next favourite book awaits. IWI Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed. The IWI Book Club 2 is accepting members. Please contact Mary Akgüner at mary.akguner@gmail.com for more information about the reading list and monthly meet-ups


FEATURE: LESLEY TAHTAKILIÇ AND MARY AKGÜNER

LALE BOOK CLUB

In this issue, IWI Book Club leaders Lesley Tahtakılıç and Mary Akgüner share their reviews of Euphoria and Strangeness in My Mind

EUPHORIA IWI Book Club 1 Euphoria by Lily King was our March book. After the familiar setting of our previous read, the English countryside, Euphoria took us right out of our comfort zone into the steamy jungle of New Guinea. This is the unusual setting for a love triangle consisting of three anthropologists, Nell, her husband Fen and their colleague, Bankson and is inspired by the life of Margaret Mead, controversial pioneering American anthropologist. Nell, English and a dedicated academic, is not long married to Fen, Australian, but their marriage is clearly in trouble. We have a hint of this in the very first lines: As they were leaving the Mumbanyo, someone threw something at them. It bobbed a few yards from the stern of the canoe. A pale brown thing. ‘Another dead baby,’ Fen said. He had broken her glasses by then, so she didn’t know if he was joking. As the story unfolds we gradually realise that the broken glasses incident was not an isolated one – Fen is selfish

and abusive. Bankson comes into the picture, treats Nell with respect and kindness and they fall in love. Meanwhile they are all getting on with their anthropological studies in their different ways and this gives us an insight into how cultural anthropology was carried out in the early days of what was then, in the 1920s, a new, barely respectable, academic discipline. This book received a mixed reception from the members at the meeting. Although the setting and the atmosphere were generally found to be interesting, the characters were criticised as ‘unlikeable‘ and ‘unconvincing’. It did spark some interesting discussion, however, such as the idea that one culture is not superior to another. We ended up discussing sex role switching, such as men dressing up and behaving as as women, as seen in tribal cultures as well as in our own cultures including Turkey. Votes ranged from 5* to 2.5*, averaging out to 3.5*. Lesley Tahtakılıç

A STRANGENESS IN MY MIND Book Club 2 recently read its second Orhan Pamuk novel: The Museum of Innocence. Although Orhan Pamuk, having won the Nobel Prize, is the most famous of all Turkish novelists, he is not the most popular. Maybe he’s viewed as cold, intellectual, elitist, not really Turkish, or it may be the length of his novels that discourages readers. A Strangeness in My Mind, our first book by Orhan Pamuk, is a joy to read. The book traces Mevlut, who at age 12 leaves his Anatolian village to work as a street vendor alongside his father in Istanbul. Hardworking, good-natured, honest, and eager to please, Mevlut often gets the short end of the stick, such as when he finds himself married to the wrong sister - a disappointment that turns into a blessing. He tries different jobs, not often successfully. He always returns to plying the traditional drink boza on the streets,

where he meets and observes all types of characters: gangsters, prostitutes, religious zealots, and mad dogs to name a few. The novel is also a social history of Istanbul. One of the funniest sections, of which there are many, identifies the similarities of the two sides in the rightist/leftist struggles of the ’70s. Not only the major events during the 40-year period following Mevlut’s arrival in Istanbul in the late ‘60s are covered, but also a myriad of minor details such as the coupon-cutting in the newspaper promotional war so as to collect dishes and even refrigerators. For an introduction to the writing of Orhan Pamuk, one cannot do better than A Strangeness in My Mind. Mary Akgüner

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LALE FASHION

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MARIJKE JORDENS

THE FABRIC OF OUR LIVES It was a trip to the Ladakh region in India where designer Marijke Jordens found love and was inspired to devote her energies to preserving and promoting traditional textiles arts. Her handiwork can be found at her atölye in Karaköy, Etsy and handmade markets around the city. Monisha Kar visited her at her workshop If you walk down the lively Mumhane Caddesi in Karaköy, past the bars, and cafes, you’ll find the unassuming Nimet Han, home to multiple creative professionals and artists. Here is where Belgian-born designer Marijke Jordens has her atölye, awash in light and teeming with her beautiful products, book and Kindle covers, which she meticulously fashions to showcase handprinted fabrics ethically sourced from countries like India, Indonesia and Malaysia. “I am more of a researcher and a designer mixed,” said Marijke, who studied archaeology before becoming a designer. “I create modern accessories—and clothes soon— with traditionally handmade fabrics that I buy from the artisans and families who make them.” Each item had a rich history and cultural significance, and I felt the affection she had for the fabrics and the people who keep these traditions alive. Marijke gave me a mini art history lesson, explaining the different techniques artisans use to create the final textiles. “Here you see the cracks in the batik, which is done on purpose,” she said. “They use a mix of wax and paraffin. Every family has their own secret mix of wax and paraffin to create or avoid making cracks. Here, the cracks are ‘mistakes’, but it is evidence that it is handmade. The cracks are part of the design.” The dye can also be significant, she noted. On one piece, what first appeared black was actually a mix of deep indigo and brown, a trademark of this particular artisan and unique to this one-of-a-kind piece of cloth, said Marijke. “None of the other artisans use indigo with brown to create black … Once you see it, you don’t like the other ones anymore. Your eye grows accustomed to quality. I think that is what people

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should do: become artisans and feel cotton, wool … to see something as handmade. You learn and grow to appreciate these products more”. Marijke also talked about the meanings of the symbols and motifs on the fabrics. “These are lucky clouds,” she said, pointing to a fanned pile of colourful book covers adorned with a swirling pattern. “They are old Chinese symbols, and actually old Ottoman symbols as well. You can see them on the Marmara line in the cloud drawings”. “They were first registered as early as 2000 BC. The word for ‘cloud’ and the word for ‘luck’ in Chinese are very similar … and they think it means that clouds bring luck,” she continued. “They use it in everything—architecture, palaces, panels … When the Chinese people first started to migrate to Indonesia, they brought these patterns with them. This fabric is made in Indonesia today, but you also see the Chinese influence in Ottoman art, in Persian miniatures and … all over India. It is amazing how these patterns travel and has such history, and they are alive”. This kind of “applied art history” is a main reason Marijke decided to design her products around these textiles. Her


LALE FASHION interest has always been in the evolution of mankind and art history, which led her to initially study archaeology. A singer-songwriter, she was also active in her local art scene in Ghent. But it was her travels that really brought all her interests together. “[M]ultiple travels to India opened my eyes to our society’s loss of craft, artisanship and community,” she told me. “So I decided to take my artistic side more seriously and studied pattern design, for which I did an internship on Savile Row, London”. After this internship in traditional tailoring techniques, she was responsible for sourcing and quality control of high-end, handmade luxury goods for an Indian family business. This required her to travel all over India in search of the remaining erstwhile artisan families and clusters, working in everything from silver filigree and woodcarving to embroidering, weaving and spinning. In India, she met her husband Ruari, and then they moved to Malaysia. There, she continued searching for the last remaining artisans, and started designing collections that would connect new customers with age-old textile arts. “My products are book and kindle covers,” she said. “I always travel with a book and I need protection for it. When I saw my sisters and friends were using them, I thought it was perfect for showcasing the fabric. This is how I decided this venture could actually work.”

Marijke’s decision to incorporate and promote these traditional textiles into her designs is also a commentary on globalisation and the erosion of the wisdom of ancient cultures. “I didn’t want to buy normal fabrics that you can buy everywhere. Why not buy from masters instead of machinemade fabrics that have no soul, even though they may have a beautiful pattern? We spend a lot of money on fabrics that are synthetic, that will be disposed of and will sit in a landfill and not decompose. They have no intrinsic value.” “Generally, we assume and agree that the handwork of previous generations is better than the handwork we can do today, otherwise, antiques would not be so expensive,” she continued. “As an archaeologist, I was thinking that actually isn’t true. There are many people in regions like Uzbekistan and Tajikistan who are weaving today, and they are treated like dirt and not paid … according to the quality of the products they create or the skills they possess. I just couldn’t understand this. Why would people pay for antiques, for things their ancestors created [when] their descendants possess these same skills and are producing with the same quality, and yet they are being forced into unskilled labour? For me this doesn’t make any sense.” And without a market for these products, the technical knowledge related to these arts will eventually be lost.

Every element of her accessories is carefully selected, from the patterned fabric on the exterior to the contrasting interiors. For padding, she uses kapok fibre, which comes from a large tree that grows in the tropics. During harvesting, the seed from the tree bursts open and there is an explosion of a cotton-like substance which is also used as a stuffing in toys and pillows.

But Marijke believes there is hope. She notes occupations here in Turkey—selling tea, shoe polishing, to name a few— that would not be sustainable in Belgium but “here it creates a depth in society that … connects people to each other.” Even businesses like hamams and barbershops have been re-popularized because of the sense of community they offer, Marijke pointed out. “We are made to believe that these are not valuable, realistic or efficient roles in society, but it is not true,” Marijke said. “As long as we use these services, they remain relevant. If you value things, they will survive. If you focus on something, it will grow. The good news is that this art is being revived, as are many by-gone traditions.” If you would like to follow Marijke, she is planning an Open Studio event with the artists in Nimet Han on the 3 June, 2017. You can follow her on Facebook and Instagram @ marijke_jordens, and visit her website at www.marijkejordens.com

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LALE LIFE

FEATURE: IRENE DRAISMA PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF GRAPHICSTOCK

THE FRIENDS YOU MAKE, THE FRIENDS YOU KEEP

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s we get older and priorities shift to work and, family, maintaining our old connections and building new friendships often takes a backseat. Irene Draisma discusses the importance of friendship, and what we can do to foster these ties Because many books, songs and magazines focus on romantic relationships and on the other hand on (mental) health, in this article I want to emphasise the importance of friendship, and invite you to take a closer look at your own friends and give some suggestions on how to maintain and start a new friendship. According to William K. Rawlins, a professor and researcher well-known in the field of interpersonal communications, friendship is one of the key ingredients to feel satisfied in life. Dealing with negative or difficult situations becomes easier when we even think of good friends who are there to support us. When we move to another country as an adult, whether for work or romance, it can be hard to make friends and to maintain the ties with our older friends back home. BACK IN TIME In modern times people tend to focus on the romantic relationship. The importance of friendship seems to devalue after adulthood, getting married and having children. In ancient times friendships where of great meaning and priority in one’s life. In the essay The Chronicle of Higher Education, William Deresiewicz reminds us that in ancient times, friendship “was seen as superior to marriage”. Today, we link friendship with youth – when we step into the terrain of adulthood, we expect to leave friendship behind. But “for the ancients, [friendship] was rare, precious, and hard-won…[It] was a high calling, demanding extraordinary qualities of character, rooted in virtue…”

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FRIENDSHIPS MAKE US WHO WE ARE RIGHT NOW If I look at the role friendship plays in my own life, one of my fondest memories was during childhood when my parents took me to visit their best (old study) friends. We spent the first hours sitting together with a drink and something nice to eat. The old friends talked about all kinds of topics from politics, culture, nature, their garden and work. Initially, I was a little shy but also very excited for the moment I could walk away from the group with my friend, so that we could start our own conversation and go outside to explore the world. Our friendship grew as we talked about all our experiences and future, and this girl became one of my very best friends. Then there was my neighbour friend from a very different family; we played with a mixed-gender group or sometimes it was just the two of us being in the outdoors where people were growing food. We made big fires and built our own house. In high school, I met another very best friend. She had just arrived from Suriname and had some problems adapting and being accepted by our classmates. I really liked her right away; I think because she was a little different from what I knew and was familiar with. During my first job as a psychologist I met a couple of very sensitive but powerful women. I also met some very intelligent warm men from whom I also learned a lot. Over the past 30 years, I have met many interesting people from different backgrounds and have assembled a diverse group of friends. I am still in contact with most of them. For me, friends are the people who add value to my life: we share lots of ideas and interests, but we also differ in many ways. I learn from them, they inspire me, I find them creative and smart and I believe the feeling is mutual. Another important aspect to friendship is being open and honest, even when it is not what I want to hear. And, in harder times, we sit together for a deep talk and laugh afterwards. Now that I have moved to another country, I can clearly see the things that are important to me in my friendships. For me, friendship is about sharing experiences, looking into my friends’ eyes and giving them a hug when they need it


LALE LIFE WHAT IS FRIENDSHIP? Aristotle said, ‘A man becomes a friend whenever being loved he loves in return’. He divides friendship into three types. The utility-based friendship, where the friendship rests on mutual benefit. The pleasure-based friendship, where the friendship rests on shared pleasure. And the friendship of excellence, where the friendship stems from the excellent qualities that the friends embody in themselves. He states that this last type is the highest form. For this article, I asked 10 different people, men, women, young, old, and from different nationalities how they would define friendship and what they found most important. One of the things that was often mentioned, was mutual interest in each other’s personal lives. We find it important that someone can listen carefully, and pays attention to what’s behind the words. Also, we want friends to be open and honest with us so that they feel comfortable telling us about their thoughts and experiences. Additionally, they should be upfront and provide objective feedback about the things we do if they believe there is an adverse effect, even if we may not want to hear it at first. Another quality we find important in a friend is if someone can offer us ideas and advice. There should be equivalence in exchange, and we should be receptive to different ideas Shared experiences can also bring us closer. When something positive happens, you make valuable memories together. During tough times, we share in the suffering and offer mental or physical support to provide relief and comfort. Having shared goals can also strengthen your bonds. Working side-by-side, sharing inspirational thoughts, traveling and discovering together is a way to build lasting memories The importance of shared values helps you and your friends establish a common understanding, set of beliefs or priorities towards a specific purpose. With that foundation, you feel a sense of security that you are not alone in the world. For many people, friendship leads to personal growth and development. In getting to know another person, you learn about yourself and the world around you. While we naturally gravitate to people who are like us– sometimes opposites do attract! For us to move beyond our comfort zone and make positive changes in our lives, investing in relationships where you balance each other out in terms of temperament, interests or experiences can add a deeper dimension to your personal life as well as your interactions with others. Friends add something unique to each other’s lives. It is by your friendships that you expand your horizons and bloom. You may notice that with certain people – you just click right away. That chemistry in our connections could start with a feeling of admiration or empathy towards someone else, or it could be that you share a similar sense of humour. With some friends, there a kind of telepathy and desire to connect. Many of us have experienced the phenomena that you were thinking of someone and at that moment, out of the blue – they call you or send you an email. Even after not seeing each other for a long time, there is a sense of familiarity and comfort when they reconnect.

SUGGESTIONS Take a closer look at your own friendships and ask yourself if you are satisfied with them, or if there is something you would like to change. ‘Who are my friends, why are they my friends, what makes our friendship successful good and important and what would I like to change? ‘How do you maintain your friendships and be a good friend? • Make the effort by visiting, calling or writing to your friends • Tell and show them how much you appreciate them - make them feel special • Don’t be possessive and don’t stake a claim on your friendships • Even if a long time has passed since you spoke, don’t be afraid of awkwardness, just pick up the phone and call • Be spontaneous • Celebrate International Friendship Day July 30 HOW TO FORM NEW FRIENDSHIPS? • Be conscious of the ingredients, but be natural in your feelings • Do things of interest where you have the chance to meet new people who are like-minded • Offer something personal, be open and show interest in others • Be open to people of different ages, genders and nationalities • Take that first step to approach someone and offer your friendship Make a plan, set goals and take initiative! Irene Draisma MSc. Psychology has a master’s degree in clinical neuropsychology from the Vrije Universiteit in Amsterdam. She has worked as a psychologist in both public and private practice. Prior to moving to Istanbul, she ran her own business, Psychologist International NL.

ODE TO FRIENDSHIP

The way to have a friend is to be one to me, fair friend, you never can be old, For as you were when first your eye I eyed, Such seems your beauty still. Three winters cold Have from the forests shook three summers’ pride; Three beauteous springs to yellow autumn turned In process of the seasons have I seen; Three April pérfumes in three hot Junes burned, Since first I saw you fresh, which yet are green. Ah yet doth beauty, like a dial hand, Steal from his figure, and no pace perceived; So your sweet hue, which methinks still doth stand, Hath motion, and mine eye may be deceived. For fear of which, hear this, thou age unbred: Ere you were born was beauty’s summer dead. Shakespeare

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: CAITLIN DIEBLER

EXPLORING THE PAST AND PRESENT IN BALAT Originally one of the Jewish quarters of Istanbul, Balat sits in the Fatih district on the western bank of the historic Golden Horn peninsula. The neighbourhood was a testament to the spirit of religious co-existence and is home to many significant historical and architectural attractions. Caitlin Diebler visited this UNESCO World Heritage site

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’ve always been mesmerised by how the centuries-old city of Istanbul agrees with contemporary life. Highways that hold high-rises sit next to cobblestone streets. Historical significance is found in almost every district of the metropolis, but as time passes modern ideas creep over the ancient secrets. Nestled along the bank of the Golden Horn is Balat, a neighbourhood that seems to be unchanged and untouched from years before. Istanbul has been my home for nearly two years. I have frequented top sites like Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace, just a few miles down the urban waterway. I couldn’t have been happier with my choice to wear flat shoes that day, as I explored Balat for the first time. Walking (sometimes felt like climbing), the steep and narrow roads of Balat, is the only way to uncover the neighbourhood’s features. I wore my DSLR camera around my neck, looking like a total tourist, but I wasn’t alone. I saw many other camera*carrying wanderers snapping away at this picturesque location.

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD Lines of drying garments connect the colourful homes, each building presenting unique characteristics, certainly Instagram-worthy. I hiked my way along the pastel painted houses to reach Phanar Greek Orthodox College (Özel Fener Rum Lisesi). The high school is visually the most prominent building as you look to Balat from the shore of the Golden Horn. Constructed in the early 1880’s, the castle-like building first educated Orthodox families from the late Ottoman Empire. Although the student population is sparse, the large, red-brick college continues to enrol Greek families residing in the area.

The Orthodox College is situated high, with a fantastic view of the Golden Horn; another great opportunity for photography enthusiasts. Closer towards sea level is another Greek landmark, Ecumenical Patriarchate (Rum Ortodoks Patrikhanesi). I was told this church is as significant to the Orthodox faith as St. Peter’s Church in Rome is to Catholics. It’s modest in size, compared to other religious monuments in Istanbul, but the interior is beautifully ornate, decorated with walnut, gold and ivory. Exquisite mosaics can be found in the former Chora Church, now established as Kariye Museum. The church was originally built in the 400’s and expanded during the time of Constantinople. Like other churches in the region, it was later converted into a mosque and the incredible mosaics were covered in plaster. Restored after Turkey became a republic, the Byzantine mosaics in Kariye Museum are a must-see. I walked towards the shore, to reach the Bulgarian Church, famous for being constructed entirely from iron. I was disappointed when I arrived, as its exterior is currently under renovation.

brick oven and collects all their ingredients from local and organic suppliers. I stopped there for a delicious lunch and I plan on returning to try their weekend buffet breakfast; buttered croissants, organic jams, stone oven baked eggs and many other traditional Turkish kahvaltı dishes. I strolled down both Yıldırım and Vodina Street, where there are heaps of cafes, restaurants, boutiques and coffee stops. Rag’n Roll Vintage has the cutest second-hand clothing and accessories. Another place with the prettiest exterior is Maison Balat, a spot that calls itself both an antique and coffee shop. I continued to hop in an out of antique stores and discovered my favourite shop in the area, Kulak Ceramic. Two sisters make beautiful ceramics by hand, right in their Balat location. The storeowners, Pinar and Zeynep, studied fine arts and spent many years working abroad with various ceramic artists. The sweet women showed me all five of their floors, containing their studio work space and display areas. I browsed the pastel coloured bowls, dishes and cups; Pinar informed me that the products aren’t painted but made with coloured ceramic and porcelain. Curious as to why they chose to work and sell in Balat, I asked the ladies how they enjoy the neighbourhood. They said Balat is a quiet oasis, in the middle of the fast-paced city life of Istanbul. Adjacent storeowners will call the Kulak Ceramic owners if they don’t show up for work a few days in a row, just to see how they’re doing. The corner köfte restaurant owners know the sisters by name when they stop in to break for lunch.

After leaving the Bulgarian Iron Church, I turned right at the Ali Yazıcı Camii (mosque) and then another right onto Yıldırım Caddesi. The second street on the left is Fener Kireçhane Sokak, where the smells from Forno’s kitchen fill the air. Forno cooks delicious lahmacuns, pides and pizzas in their

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

As the day went on I started paying attention to the people in the streets. Cooklife is a great place to sit and have a coffee while people watching from the windows, or on the petite patio. My Turkish isn’t great but I understand a generous amount. I noticed a large majority of residents were speaking a language I didn’t understand -Arabic. As the refugee crisis has heightened in the past few years, many of Istanbul’s 600,000 displaced people have chosen to settle in the Balat area. It was obvious by the religious landmarks that Balat accommodated minority groups in the past. History seems to repeat itself, as a significant population of Balat is comprised of Syrian refugees. The neighbourhood has been more than welcoming; Yusra Community Center serves the local Syrian families. I think that’s what I love most about the Balat streets -they simply welcome. I watched the Arab children laugh and play in the street, imagining years ago when Jewish and Greek children were doing the same. It’s almost as if every winding street says, ‘Welcome foreigner, you’re safe here’.

The colourful single dwelling houses also have recently attracted an influx of long-time Istanbul residents. Gentrification has swept over the city; high-rise condominiums are the norm. Balat remains as one of the only neighbourhoods where one can own their own building, and this charms many.

I hope this is how Balat will remain. I don’t want to see shopping malls or chain restaurants. I want to see men pushing carts of simit and one-of-a-kind boutiques. I hope the streets will always beget a quietness of the soul and a welcoming oasis to those who explore them.

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FEATURE: CIGDEM DUYSAL

MUMS ’N KIDS

LOOKING FOR A SUMMER CAMP?

With dozens of camps to choose from, the task of finding the camp that is the best fit for your children can be incredibly overwhelming. Çiğdem Duysal offers her suggestions Fit There are many different types of camps (e.g., single sex, co-ed, residential, day, sports, specialty, art, language) that have distinct missions. Think about what you want your child to gain at camp. Staff When you enroll your child in summer camp, you are trusting camp personnel to safeguard the physical, emotional, and social well-being of your child. Camp directors should take this responsibility very seriously and you should be comfortable with the camp philosophy. Feel free to ask for references from parents Environment Be sure that you are familiar with the environment surrounding a camp. Learn about evacuation plans, safety and security measures in place to protect your children in case of emergency. Seeing a camp in action is the best way to experience the feeling of camp life! If it is possible, try to arrange a tour during the summer so you can meet campers and staff. Below are some English-language camp options in Istanbul and Izmir: Robert College Summer Program This is an immersion-like summer program for young participants, grades 2 through 8. The purpose of the program is to expose participants to a camp environment filled with fun and exciting activities. RC Camp also has the ambition of promoting values such as respect, honesty, empathy, sportsmanship, and caring for others and the environment.

Since they offer a wide range of age/ activities, please visit their website for dates and options. www.enkaspor.com/sporokullari.php Sailing Camps There are various summer sailing camps to choose from in Istanbul. Most camps are at the Kalamis Marina and/ or Fenerbahce on the Asian side. Look into the Galatasaray Club, Fenerbahce Club and Istanbul Yacht Club for summer camp programs. There are also reputable private sailing camps to choose fnot sailing club for 6-11 year old campers, laser camp for 12-16 year olds and a windsurf camp for 6-11 year olds. All camps are 5 days a week for 2 weeks. www.galatasaray.org/s/yelken-okullari School camps Most of Istanbul’s private schools play host to various academic/athletic summer camps. Reach out to a school that you are comfortable with, and find an option for you. Online Creative Camps – Writing, Photography, Self Development There are also numerous online creative ‘camps’ for your kids ranging from offerings to age groups. I-writers is a Stanford University Creative Writing based online writing class that has various fiction/nonfiction tracks designed to help your child develop their English, writing, and creative thinking. Khan Academy is also a wonderful option for children to take

time to develop their academic skills at their own pace over the summer. CasaBimbici has artistic camp options for younger children in a boutique setting in Cihangir. Summer camp registration is open to young children who are interested in a bilingual (English/Italian) environment. www.casabimbicihangir.com Istanbul Modern Summer School The Modern Museum summer program includes art, writing and other creative courses. They have not yet announced all their offerings, for further detail, please call: (212) 334 7352 www.istanbulmodern.org Sabanci Museum in Emirgan have summer camp programs for children beginning at the young age of 4. Look at their website for further detail. www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org Space Camp Turkey (Izmir) SCT has numerous international space camp options over the summer for 9-15 year old children. English or Turkish camp options are available in one week intervals beginning June through August. Check out their website to register online. www.secure.spacecampturkey.com For those of you interested in summer camps in the USA, feel free to contact the author who can share further details of the research prepared for this article: Cigdem@duysal.com

Camp Bradley (Acarkent/Coliseum, Beykoz) Camp Bradley brand was founded in 2010 in order to establish summer camps in Turkey similar to the American ones. They strive to teach children the value of being a part of a team through sports and various activities. All camp activities take place within the Coliseum Sports complex in Acarkent, Beykoz. 0 543 814 4711 info@campbradley.com Enka Sports Camp (Istinye) Enka is known for its various sports camps, including swimming, tennis, and half/whole day camps. They are a trusted, and established brand when it comes to Summer camps in Istanbul.

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LALE TRAVEL

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: VERENA RINGE

COOL OFF IN ERDEK

With summer approaching, this is the time to start planning an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Verena Ringe travels the Marmara Coast to the Kapıdağ peninsula to visit the fishing village of Erdek

E

rdek is a small town with a population of 34,000 at the peninsula of Kapıdağ on the southern coast of the Marmara Sea, near Bandırma. Essentially an old fishing village with a natural small harbour, many inhabitants still follow the traditional way of life, and in autumn and winter a small fishing fleet seeks shelter there from the storms If you are coming to Erdek from Bandırma by bus or car, you will notice a shallow bay just before you reach the city. This bay was used in antiquity as a harbour for the ancient town of Kizikos, which stretched halfway up the hill beyond. Kizikos was of considerable size and an important metropolis from around 400 BC until being abandoned due to a series of earthquakes in the 11th century AD. Some artefacts found there are now in the Archaeological Museum in Istanbul, but most of the ruins of temples and a large theatre are now overgrown and can barely be found among the fields and olive orchards.

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LALE TRAVEL It is possible to travel to Bandırma by fast ferryboat from Istanbul, and this lovely, green and friendly town can be reached within three hours. The outskirts of Bandırma are unfortunately not very attractive and give no indication of the easy holiday atmosphere of Erdek. This has been for a long time a favourite holiday resort for mainly Turkish tourists, coming from Bursa, Balıkesir or other, hotter inland cities, as far as Eskişehir or Ankara. Its popularity was always based on the more temperate climate in summer. With a regular breeze it rarely reaches 30 degrees Celsius and with cool evenings guarantees more holiday recuperation, especially for children, than the far hotter holiday resorts of Çeşme, Antalya, Datça and Bodrum with degrees around 35 C degrees or higher. As prices are more reasonable and accommodation can be found in a wide range, from boarding with families, rented flats or houses to small hotels, it is a budget-friendly option for travellers.

After leaving the harbour area you are in a little half circle of small souvenir shops and restaurants which offer a wide range of services, such as breakfast, döner, pide or fish. Many small streets of low houses lead further into the town sloping towards the market area. This small lively Monday market is mainly used by local farmers, and many smallholdings just sell what their garden produces. You can

also find fresh and dried herbs, gathered in the mountains of the Kapıdağ peninsula. Cold pressed olive oil, olives of the region, alongside cheeses and kitchenware and clothes and household linens are on offer there. At the top of the hill you will find some old, two-storey houses, as yet not replaced by more modern structures, where housewives take a rest in the shadow of trees in front of their door.

The Erdek harbour promenade is encircled by tall shady trees under which you find old-style Turkish tea gardens where you can sit at ease with a tea or coffee, homemade lemonade and your newspaper, a book or for a chat with family and friends. Bring your own food if you like - there are plenty of bakeries close by - and enjoy the holiday in a relaxed atmosphere, with an unhindered view onto small boats, fishing vessels and yachts, moored at the key and a tiny island just off the breakwater. There are also several boats used as small fish restaurants, from which fish can be bought fresh under the watchful eye of a gang of harbour cats.


LALE TRAVEL

To the right of the harbour, long sandy beaches invite to swim and or laze under sun umbrellas with shallow enough water for small children to play. This also is reached with a promenade of shady trees. Behind this are low boarding houses, summer flats and small hotels. The huge hotel complexes and never ending summer residences of the Mediterranean are not to be found here. Instead there are olive orchards and pinewoods covering the flanks of the hills and mountain region of the Kapıdağ. From Erdek you can take a regular ferry service to the Marmara islands, which are often used for daily excursions. The real summer holiday starts on both sides of the harbour, as the town spreads out along the shoreline. To the left cafes are placed by the water edge alongside a wide promenade, interspaced with wooden platforms from which to swim. At its end, a small peninsula is only accessible in the evenings, but offers from its summit a wonderful view at sunset and to the barren “tavşan” island in front of Erdek, which houses a small modern lighthouse. But some old foundations there, evidence the possibility of lighthouses through the ages.

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Erdek is ideal for a few days getaway from Istanbul and the sea has temperatures warm enough for swimming from May to September. Even in winter, the friendly relaxed atmosphere along the shore and harbour is balm against the stresses of life in big cities.


FEATURE: LYUBOV GÜRLER PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF EDEN’S GARDEN

MUMS ’N KIDS

AN INTERVIEW WITH EDEN’S GARDEN INTERNATIONAL PRESCHOOL

E

den’s Garden International Preschool, founded in 2005, was the perfect environment for the International Women of Istanbul (IWI) to host their annual Easter Party and Egg Hunt because of their large spacious garden filled with fruit trees. It provided a safe, clean, natural environment for our International Community to seek and find Easter eggs, to play garden games and to do Easter themed crafts with our children within the “Mum’s and Kids” clubs of Istanbul. After this successful event, Lyubov Gürler, IWI Mum’s and Kids Coordinator, wanted to find out exactly why Eden’s Garden is so popular within the International Community and what makes the environment there so magical. Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director of Eden’s Garden International Preschool, offered her story about how they started in 2005 with the education of a talented, philosophical little American boy called “Eden”. Lyubov Gürler spoke with Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, after the wonderful and exciting IWI Easter Party, about her journey and personal mission to create a perfect multiple intelligences preschool experience for children in Istanbul What is the philosophy of Eden’s Garden International Preschool? Our philosophy and beliefs for early years learning are: • Teaching English through play • Giving children the space, time and tools they need to express themselves • Encouraging creativity, independence, initiative, problem-solving skills, sharing, and patience • Providing rich learning opportunities for multiple intelligences and learning styles; language, mathematical, spatial, kinesthetic, music, naturalist, interpersonal, and intrapersonal • Connecting children with the environment through gardening, science and nature lessons • Preparing them to succeed academically at whichever primary school they go on to, whether English or Turkish, local or international You teach children between the ages of two and six years. How do you instil a ‘lifelong love of learning’ in them? We ignite and nurture their life-long love of learning through inquiry, reflection and positive happy experiences at school. At Eden’s Garden International Preschool our children become self-confident, expressive, creative and dynamic in their learning through interactive play and group work with others. Our students are always doing something practical related to daily life and self-sufficiency. Our entire school philosophy positively encourages children to love learning through their active development and taking onboard new challenges with enthusiasm. Can you tell us about your educational concept and the curriculum you have implemented? Our educational concept for our students is the High Scope Method, which is based on Jean Piaget’s ideas for active learning. This is where children are actively engaged in their own learning journey and are empowered to choose, decide, plan, do and reflect upon their tasks and projects either individually or as a group. All of the world’s best and leading schools are using this methodology. It encourages our young learners to be thinkers, good communicators, risk-takers and inquirers. These are the qualities that we are focused upon to cultivate knowledgeable, principled, open-minded, reflective and caring children.

At Eden’s Garden, we follow the six, transdisciplinary themes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum. We explore topics of inquiry under the knowledge concepts of ‘Who We Are’, ‘Where We Are in Place and Time’, ‘How We Express Ourselves’, ‘How the World Works’, ‘How We Organise Ourselves’ and ‘Sharing the Planet’. All the children’s favourite study topics are covered and their philosophical approach can be very deep and valuable with great ideas and solutions cultivated. This is the 12th year since the establishment of Eden’s Garden. Do you have any special plans for this year? Every year at Eden’s Garden gets better and better, since we are enriched by the positive experiences and intercultural input from international families from all over the world. Our 12th-year anniversary is testament to our success and the fact that we have had such wonderful times with each child’s learning journey. We continue to evolve each academic year with a mix of returning students and new students who all grow, develop and learn together. We are always celebrating intercultural events, special days and international festivals with music, dancing and parties such as the IWI Easter event, which was such a magical time for those who attended. We can’t thank the IWI Mums ‘N Kids team enough and the IWI Board for your great vision and support to make such a great event for your members. It was our honour to host it for you all. Can you tell us about learning activities outside the curriculum? We have special, professionally taught courses for our students to develop their gross motor, fine motor skills, musicality, agility, expression, logical thinking and creativity. We have Creative Drama on Mondays, Ballet on Tuesdays, Ceramics on Wednesdays, Science and Gardening on Thursdays and Cooking on Fridays. It’s also not just about the activity. It’s the style of learning that’s important. We

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MUMS ’N KIDS

utilise project-based learning, which is a teaching method where students gain knowledge and skills by working for an extended period of time investigating and responding to a task, project, problem or challenge. With this teaching approach, we act as facilitators to explore, ‘what do we already know, what would we like to find out and what have we learned?’ During the project-based learning process, our students are making assessments, judgements and choices whilst using their skills of communication and negotiation to progress the project or play Scenario. At Eden’s Garden, we like to hear our students’ voices and choices to understand their character, strengths and individuality—which can of course reflect their cultural background, values and international-mindedness, which we like to foster. What about your relationship with parents? Are there policies and procedures that help them stay involved? At Eden’s Garden, we have an “open door policy” with the students’ parents. They can visit our classrooms and even contribute to our topic discussions. Sometimes a parent may choose to watch ballet class and other times parents read stories and share their knowledge with the children. It means for us that they are actively involved and endorsing our school environment as an extension of the child’s home, so that they feel safe and empowered to explore and create throughout the day. We do have a resident psychologist who observes the children in class and helps each child to socialise, communicate, share and work well in small or large groups. This complements our project-based learning teaching approach and it also means that we have support during any transitional phases that a child may be going through. Our classroom teachers are also advocates in lifelong learning and they are all very highly trained in early years education with master’s degrees and a passion for developing the young minds in our care. Do you also offer parents guidance? We give guidance through our daily report books, which we use to communicate with the parents about the student’s progress. Each teacher completes a log to explain how

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the child ate, slept, interacted with others, and how they participated in our special activities and discussion topics. This is particularly useful during transitional times such as toilet training or saying goodbye. Our teachers are available for private review or discussion meetings and we make our student evaluations twice a year in December and May. Each child has a very detailed developmental analysis and report of their progress presented at our biannual parent teacher meetings. At this time, we share our observations, professional guidance and suggestions for further development or improvement. Eden’s Garden is a huge success despite relatively low key marketing and advertising. What led to your current success and what are your hopes for the future? Parents and students involved in the Eden’s Garden community are always happy to discuss their positive experiences, and we have always been very highly recommended. Eden’s Garden has such a positive vibe that our alumni students keep in touch with us years after leaving. They never forget their time here, and they truly value their Eden’s Garden experience as one of love, care, fun and for being “the best that they can be”. We are interested in each child as an individual and we respect every family’s cultural background and experience. There is a place for every child in Eden’s Garden; we care and have great empathy for every child’s story. We are very careful about our approach to sustain a secure safe environment as we have so many high-profile families onboard. Eden’s Garden will continue to be the magical preschool that helps children from all over the world to be the best that they can be. Eden’s Garden International Preschool has a Summer Discovery Camp that will run for eight consecutive weeks in Summer 2017 for children age 2-8 years from 3 July to 25 August 2017 inclusive. You may contact the school’s Director Karen Holyoak Çiftçi at director@edensgardenpreschool.com for all the details to sign up and enjoy.


LALE CALENDAR Spring into Summer with a full calendar of IWI events!

Monday

Tuesday

May 2017

Wednesday

1 UNDERGROUND

2

8 Coffee Morning

9

Thursday

Saturday

Sunday

6

7

11

12

13

14

16 HEYBELIADA TOUR17 Coffee Morning 18

19

20

21

22 COFFEE AND

23

26

27

28

29

30 SAKIP SABANCI

Asian Side

4

Friday

5

ISTANBUL

3

10 RELAXING SPA

AND PAMPER

FRENCH BAKING CLASS

MAKE-UP WITH YVES SAINT LAURENT 15

European Side

CULTURE TOUR

Monday

24 PLACES OF

WORSHIP

EXHIBITION TOUR

Tuesday

Wednesday

25

31

June 2017 Thursday

Friday

Saturday

6 IWI SUMMER

LUNCH AT TOPAZ

12 THE EXHILARATION13

OF SAILING

Sunday

1 KADIKÖY’S

2

3

4

8

9

10

11

14 Coffee Morning 15

16

17

18

24

25

BACKSTREETS AND MODA

5

WINE TASTING AFTERNOON

7

European Side

Coffee Morning Asian Side 19

20

21

22

23

26

27

28

29

30

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LALE EVENTS UNDERGROUND ISTANBUL – WHAT LIES BENEATH we can experience the feeling of discovery and privilege of seeing many artefacts, which millions of people living here ‘above ground’ are unfamiliar with. The program will include visits to several cisterns, palace ruins, some sub-structures, storage rooms and vaulted rooms. We will make a lunch stop (not included in the price) at a restaurant with good local food. Entrance fees, a coffee, CIP Events informative pamphlets and maps, and a tour guide audio system are all included in the price. Istanbul, as the capital of three great empires - the Roman, Byzantine and the Ottoman - has a very diverse and rich history. One of the most unique cities in the world, we are privileged to live here and have much to discover.

Date

Tuesday, May 2

Time

10.00am – 3.00pm

Location

But over the centuries, sometimes out of lack of appreciation, sometimes in haste or to meet urgent needs, newer buildings have been built over older ones. Today, as we go back and investigate more, and in the course of recent construction projects, new discoveries are being made constantly, and long-lost traces of previous occupants of the city are being uncovered. History is being re-written.

Starting from Sultanahmet – details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 100 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 90 TL; Guests: 110 TL

Participants

Minimum: 15; Maximum 25

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, April 30 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

This tour will surprise even long-time residents of İstanbul with many unknown and unexpected ruins beneath the city. In the company of Şerif Yenen, from IWI partner CIP Events,

FRENCH BAKING CLASS and her passion, to let you find your way to making some wonderful creations of your own.

Following the success of our over-subscribed event in March, we are very pleased to offer a second opportunity with Sylvie, a French free-lance baker, to try out some French baking in the cosy home environment of a professional baker. Sylvie has lived and worked in several countries, supplying restaurants and private clients with the beautiful, traditional French pastries, celebration cakes, speciality breads and salty aperitif bites. You might even have come across her work in some of the well-known restaurants in Istanbul! For the last seven years, she has also been enjoying sharing her talents with others through running baking classes. France is famous for its delicious, and stunning, patisserie offerings and Sylvie will be very happy to share her secrets,

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You will produce and be able to take home, some of each of the following •Paris-Brest: French specialty made of vanilla cream and homemade pralines inside a choux pastry •Nutella Brioche: kind of sweet and soft bread perfect for breakfast or tea time •Cannelés - French specialty from Bordeaux: crunchy outside and soft inside with a pinch of brown rum You can check out Sylvie’s work on Facebook (“Symphonie BySylvie”) There will be tea and coffee served whilst you work. Sylvie will also prepare us a light lunch of mint and feta quiche, served with a salad (and homemade French dressing, of course!). Date

Friday, May 5

Time

10.00am – 3.00pm

Location

Istinye Park – details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 110 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 100 TL; Guests: 120 TL

Participants Minimum 6; Maximum 9

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Tuesday, May 2 Contact

prorgrams@iwi-tr.org


LALE EVENTS MAKE-UP WITH YVES SAINT LAURENT - FREE! Expert tuition in the art and science of make-up will be delivered, followed by a demonstration on a volunteer from our group. You can learn the do’s and don’ts, and have your questions answered. Then, each of us will have a chance to have own make-up applied in an individual session, if desired. We will be wonderfully hosted in this luxurious store, with tea, coffee and pastries. Free trial samples of YSL products will be offered, and if you wish to purchase any products to use your new skills at home, you will receive a 20% discount.

We all know that when we look great, we also feel great. As Mother’s Day approaches, how glamourous would you like to be?! In the Beymen store in Zorlu Centre, we are invited to learn about techniques of applying make-up, understand the latest products and trends, and how best to apply make-up to suit our own skin type and face shape.

Date

Tuesday, May 9

Time

11.00am – 1.00pm

Location

Beymen store, Zorlu shopping centre, Gayretepe

Cost

Free of charge

Participants

Minimum: 6; Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, May 6

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

RELAXING SPA AND PAMPER All participants will have a chance to experience an unforgettable face massage with a professional cosmetologist and be introduced to the concept of face fitness. Anne Nature (www.annenature.com) organic certified skin care products will be available to cleanse and treat your body. These are made in Latvia from specially selected biologically certified natural plant and berry extracts in combination with rich, natural oils, to create particularly effective natural cosmetics. To finish off, we will relax, drink tea and chat about healthier living in a big city like Istanbul. The event price includes hamam, sauna & pool entrance, cosmetologist treatment and use of Anne Nature products. The hamam tradition of cleansing and relaxing dates back centuries. It is a time-proven way to take away any kind of stress, simultaneously cleaning both your body and your soul. We will visit the Kavacık Hamamı, which combines the features of the traditional Turkish style with a modern western SPA, and comprises a steam room, sauna and pool. Optionally, we highly recommend that add a “kese-köpük” massage to your special day. A professional hamam physiotherapist will use a “Kese”, or rough mitt, to deeply cleanse your skin of layers of dead skin and daily dust. Then, a “kopuk” massage with frothy soap follows, which gives the sensation of being in a cloud of bubble bath and induces deep relaxation.

Date

Thursday, May 11

Time

10.00am, – 2.00pm

Location

Kavacık

Cost

Basic members: 45 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members : 40 TL; Guests : 50 TL; Optional Kese & Kopuk massage – 30 TL

Participants

Minimum: 4; Maximum: 10

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, May 8

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS HEYBELIADA, THE BEAUTIFUL PRINCES ISLANDS The 19th-century former Greek Orthodox School of Theology sits majestically atop the northern hill in beautiful grounds, and trained priests up until 1973. The School’s pretty, 800year old church contains stunning gilt iconostasis which we can try to see, but its collection of 230,000 books is only viewable by academics. Other prominent buildings on the island include the Naval High School, and the Greek Orthodox Church of St Nicolas (Aya Nikola), with its curious clock tower. The little chapel-like wooden monastery of Agios Spiridion is run down but sits, atmospherically, amid pine trees overlooking the sea.

Our IWI member, Mimo, is a resident of the Princes Islands and enjoys regular walks there. She is looking forward to sharing her enjoyment with you on a walk around Heybeliada, the second largest of the islands, which still retains a local, village identity. Like Büyükada, there are no cars allowed on the island, but it is quieter than its larger neighbour, making it ideal for enjoying a stroll to take in the fresh air and lovely views – or for hopping on a horse-and-buggy! Our walk around the island is hilly - after all, the island’s name means “saddlebag”, indicating the dip between the two hills and will last approximately one and a half hours.

Following the death of Atatürk, his good friend İsmet İnönü’s became the new Republic’s second President. His former house today serves as a small museum. Those who wish to join together for lunch will be able to find a good choice of nice restaurants to relax and enjoy the island life. Date

Wednesday, May 17

Time

11.30am

Location

Heybeliada, easily accessible by ferry

Cost

Basic members: 10 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 10 TL; Guests: 10 TL

Participants

Minimum: 4; Maximum: 10

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, May 14

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

COFFEE AND CULTURE TOUR - THE BEAUTIFUL BOSPHORUS Black Sea entrance to the Bosphorus in order to ensure safe navigation for the French and British war ships. The French constructed Rumeli Feneri on the European side of the strait and improved the existing lighthouse of Anadolu Feneri. Both lighthouses were fully operational on May 15, 1856. Anadolu Feneri was operated by the French until 1933 when the 100-years Concession was cancelled and the Turkish authorities took over. These days, both areas are dotted with small fish restaurants where you can enjoy fresh fish direct from the fishing boats during the season. On our way we can decide to which side of the Bosphorus we want to go to eat. Please register online to receive more information.

The IWI’s monthly Culture and Coffee tour, led by our Asiaside coordinator Gabriele Sailer, takes to the Bosphorus in May with a fabulous trip planned up to the entrance to the Black Sea. At the very top end of the Bosphorus, as it merges into the Black Sea, sit two lighthouses, facing each other on opposite sides of Istanbul’s iconic strait. On the European side is Rumeli Feneri; while Anadolu Feneri stands on the Asian side. Both lighthouses are sites of great historical importance and interest. During the Crimean War between 1853 and 1856, it became necessary to have lighthouses on both sides of the

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Date

Tuesday May 23

Time

Dependent on your local pier, earliest boat departure 10.25am, latest return 4.25pm

Location

Depart from most convenient pier - Eminönü, Beşiktaş, Kanlıca or Sariyer

Cost

All members (and Guests): 25 TL

Participants

Minimum: 4; Maximum: 20

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday May 20

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org


LALE EVENTS PLACES OF WORSHIP and modern frescos painted by a Scottish resident artist 15 years ago. The Irish Canon (priest) is well-known in the city and provides shelter to many refugees, as well as lending a home to ducks in the garden. Next, we will see another very different place of worship, visiting a Russian church hidden away in the top floor of an apartment building.

Istanbul has always been a cosmopolitan and tolerant city. The three main religions - Islam, Judaism and Christianity – and their many sects, have co-existed for hundreds of years, influencing each other slightly, and having great respect each other’s beliefs and traditions. Today, we will see many contrasting places of religion, some that are not normally open for visiting, thanks to our IWI partner Monica Fritz. Starting in the quarter formerly known as Pera, our first visit is to the onion-domed Ashkenazi synagogue built in 1900. The synagogue will be opened especially for us to see around this special place, together with a member of the faith, representing the now tiny minority group of Ashkenazi Jews of our city. We will then go on to the attractive Christian (Anglican) Crimean Church, with its contrasting Baroque architecture

The contrasts will continue when we look into a very old and unique “Turkish Orthodox” church with an interesting story. Then, tucked away around the corner, we’ll find the oldest Armenian church in Istanbul. After a pause for lunch at a local eaterie, our final visit will be to a splendid mosque and baths by the architect Sinan. A note on registration: For security reasons, we have to collect names, nationalities and passport numbers from registrants and provide these in advance to the synagogue. ID must be presented on arrival. Guests will not be permitted on this occasion. The cost of the tour includes a mandatory donation to the synagogue. An additional recommended donation of 5TL should be considered at the other places of worship. Date

Thursday, May 25

Time

9.30am – 2.30pm

Location

Starting from Galata Tower

Cost

Basic members: 90 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 85 TL; Guests: not available; Recommended donations in 3 different churches (usually 5 TL)

Participants

Minimum: 7; Maximum: 12

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, May 22 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

WINE TASTING AFTERNOON (SATURDAY) WITH SUVLA Participants will enjoy a talk about the estate, the winemaking process, the story of Suvla and tasting terminology. We will be guided through the tasting of nine different wines, including red, white and rose, in different price brackets. Our heavily-discounted event will also include a cheese plate, water and bread. Those who wish can also order from a food menu. Finally, participants will be able to purchase wine from the Suvla store inside Kanyon at a specially discounted price on the day. This will be a fun and informative afternoon, and a great value opportunity to enjoy some new wines and perhaps stock up your wine cellar. Don’t miss out!

We all find it hard to find a Turkish wine that will live up to the one we used to drink back home. So here is an afternoon to help you discover some Turkish wines to add to your shopping list. Our first wine tasting event will be at the Suvla Bistro-Wine Bar at Kanyon. They have a beautiful open terrace where we can sit if the weather is nice. We will be tasting wines from the Suvla range, a family-owned wine estate in Canakkale. Though it is a young brand launched only in 2012, Suvla has been awarded 120 medals in several national and international wine contests.

Date

Saturday, May 27

Time

3.00pm-5.00pm

Location

Suvla, Kanyon

Cost

Basic Members: 45 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary Members: 40 TL; Guests: 50 TL

Participants Minimum: 10; Maximum: 30 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Wednesday, May 24 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS SAKIP SABANCI EXHIBITION TOUR : FEYHAMAN DURAN - BETWEEN TWO WORLDS The current exhibition features the works of Feyhaman Duran, a Turkish artist who lived between 1886-1970. The title, “Between Two Worlds”, reflects the journey that the artist’s technique took, carrying traces of the country’s transformation from the Ottoman Empire into the Turkish Republic. It reflects the influences that shaped the art of Duran, who left an empire on the brink of collapse to arrive at the home of art in Paris and then returned back to a country in revolutionary transformation. Duran, greatly influenced by impressionist movement during his Parisian education, took up the habit of carrying his canvas to various spots across the city to just sit back and paint. His landscapes of Istanbul provide a comprehensive glimpse of Istanbul’s history.

If you are interested in art, then you will already know that the privately-owned Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan is one of Istanbul’s top venues for international exhibitions, taking place alongside an impressive permanent collection, including numerous examples of fine calligraphy works. Situated overlooking the Bosphorus and surrounded by landscaped gardens containing magnificent horse sculptures, the historic mansion is a beautiful destination in itself. But even if you know the Museum well, we think all art lovers will be interested in this event; the IWI has re-engaged the services of professional art historian, art adviser and guide Banu Küçüksubaşı to take us on a guided exploration of the current exhibition so that we can maximise our appreciation of the works and learn from her expertise.

A short introduction to the permanent exhibition might inspire you to spend some more time to view this for yourself.

Date

Wednesday, May 31

Time

9.45am – 12.00pm

Location

Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Emirgan

Cost private

Basic members: 40 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 35 TL; Guests: 45 TL

Participants

Minimum: 8; Maximum: 20

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, May 28

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

THE ASIAN SIDE: KADIKÖY’S BACKSTREETS AND MODA Nearby is a street dedicated to antique shops, also sleepy in the morning making it a good time to browse and imagine what the inside of Turkish homes were once like - it’s a sort of Asian version of Çukurcuma. Further down we hit the famous “bar street”, where many of the bars and clubs are being cleaned and refurbished, giving us a nice chance to see their traditional wooden architecture. We will visit one of the older rock bars to look at the unique interior. We then go on to Moda, an older and upmarket quarter once known for its women’s beach and exclusive beach club. Depending on the time, we can visit a church and other interesting landmarks, boutiques and trendy shops in this lovely area.

This fun and offbeat walking tour starts at the pier in Kadıköy, a very lively and young neighborhood of Istanbul. With our guide, IWI partner Monica Fritz, we will wander into these popular streets in the morning when they are still quiet and there is space to look around and enjoy. First, a visit to the historical Turkish Delight shop, with a lovely old Istanbul atmosphere to it. Then we will go to a small Armenian chapel, untouched by ‘progress’ and very frequented by locals and others. A visit to this part is never complete without experiencing the famous Kadıköy market area – the bustling and colourful fish market, spices, gourmet shops, and street food.

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Lunch will be taken in lovely little “Naan”, finishing with a tea under the wonderful mastic trees, overlooking the Marmara Sea. Date

Friday, June 2

Time

10.00am – 2.30pm

Location

Kadıköy and Moda

Cost

Basic members: 70 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL; Guests: 80 TL

Participants

Minimum: 7; Maximum: 12

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Tuesday, May 30

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org


LALE EVENTS IWI SUMMER LUNCH AT TOPAZ Our Menu

The IWI is very excited that Topaz has agreed to our host our 2017 Summer Lunch – at a very, very special price. This elegant restaurant, undoubtedly one of Istanbul’s finest, has won several awards for its food and its wine, and boasts a wonderful Bosphorus view. Its cuisine is exquisite, and the ambiance delightful. This truly is a wonderful opportunity to experience “The Jewel of Istanbul” and celebrate our IWI year together in style. Two glasses of wine and soft drinks, tea and coffee, and tip, are all included. Please be ready with your menu choices when you register online. If you register to bring a guest, we will contact you for their menu choices.

Traditional Turkish vegetable platter cooked in olive oil (Aegean greens, artichoke, eggplant, stuffed zucchini flower) or Bodrum-fresh Tiger Prawn and smoked salmon platter, with citrus foam ***** Arugula and eggplant salad, with cherry tomatoes & roasted capsicum stuffed with” tulum” cheese, crispy vegetables ***** Veal tenderloin served with mustard-flavoured potatoes custard, steamed spinach, sweet marsala sauce or Rosemary marinated grilled seabass served with, ginger flavoured pumpkin “fondant”, steamed baby spinach ***** “Ekmek Kadayıfı” with Afyon buffalo milk clotted cream, sour cherry compote ***** Topaz own Wine list Narince, Cabernet Sauvignon, Topaz Öküzgözü Date

Wednesday, June 7

Time

12.30pm – 3.00pm

Location

Topaz, Gümüşsuyu, Beyoğlu

Cost

Basic members: 170 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 160 TL; Guests: 180 TL

Participants Minimum: 30; Maximum: 120 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, June 4 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

THE EXHILARATION OF SAILING – A HANDS-ON DAY ON YACHT how a modern boat harnesses the power of the wind in the same as sailors have travelled the seas for centuries. You will sail on the Marmara Sea, with wonderful views of Topkapı, Sultanahmet, the Hagia Sophia and so much more. See Istanbul from a very different side, find your sea legs and discover the sailor within! Drinks will be provided, but we suggest that you bring your own packed lunch. No special equipment is required, but you must wear sailing shoes or white-soled sports shoes. Do you fancy experiencing the thrill and freedom of sailing, by taking to the water on a small yacht together with a professional skipper and other IWI members? We are chartering a sailing yacht from Istanbul Sailing Academy, together with the services of a professional sailing instructor. Depending upon your level of interest, you can either take an active role in setting sails and helming the boat, or simply relax and enjoy the ride. No experience is necessary, but this is a fantastic opportunity to understand

Date

Tuesday, June 13

Time

10.00am – latest 3.00pm

Location

Kalamış, Fenerbahçe

Cost

Basic members: 15 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 10 TL; Guests: 20 TL

Participants Minimum: 3; Maximum: 6 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, June 10 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE SPECIAL OFFER

THE ARTIST WHO LIT UP THE DARKNESS Forced to leave Paris in the bleak days of war, Feyhaman Duran, Turkey’s first recognised portraitist, chose to emphasise beauty and light. The Sakıp Sabanci Museum pays tribute with a glowing retrospective

ISSUE FIFTY-FIVE 2017

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3

CORNUCOPIA Issue 55 2017

Turkey for Connoisseurs

55

OTTOMAN CARICATURES . ERZURUM . ANATOLIA IN BLACK AND WHITE . LYCIAN BULBS . CHICKPEAS

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After his return to Istanbul, Feyhaman became an inspired teacher. He married one of his students, Güzin, granddaughter of a noted calligrapher, moving into her tiny wooden house in the Old City. By some miracle, the house survives, as does the Art Deco studio in the garden that they both used for 40 years. This house, every corner of which speaks of their life together (see Cornucopia 42), is now closed for restoration, and the museum has borrowed 450 of the Durans’ personal artefacts to recreate two of the rooms and their studio for this ambitious exhibition. CORNUCOPIA

Above The Princes Islands, 1940s. Right Feyhaman favourites: an interior, a balcony, the sea. The Princes Islands off Istanbul became the 1914 Generation’s Côte d’Azur

T

he Sakıp Sabancı Museum excels at international blockbuster shows. When it turns its attention to Turkey’s own artists, it also does so to brilliant effect. Now it is the turn of Feyhaman Duran (1886–1970), part of the 1914 Generation, whose careers, in the afterglow of Impressionism, spanned the end of the Ottoman era and the dawn of the Republic. With the outbreak of war, they were suddenly enemy aliens in their beloved bohemian Paris. The Ottoman capital they returned to was in deepening despair, flooded with refugees from the Balkans and the Caucasus. Young men in their thousands were marching off to war, never to return – the colours of Beşiktaş football club are still dominated by black in their memory. But Feyhaman Duran, orphaned at an early age, chose instead to dwell on the joys of life. “It is difficult to see beauty,” he wrote later, “but those who can are blessed.” Feyhaman Duran: Between Two Worlds (until July 30) is full of luminous landscapes, still lifes and nudes, but it was his portraits that first earned him recognition. Painting the daughters of the Egyptian prince Abbas Halim Pasha paid for his passage to France in 1911.

Cornucopia

This article is extracted from Cornucopia No 55, available from Robinson Crusoe, Denizler, Patika, Envai, Homer, Eren, Pandora, D&R and other good bookshops (TL40). For special Cornucopia offers for IWI members, including books and post-free gift subscriptions, worldwide, visit cornucopia.net/iwi-offer PARODIES LOST OTTOMAN CARICATURES COME HOME TO PERA

BEAUTY AND THE EAST ENIGMATIC ERZURUM THE GENTLE EYE A PHOTOGRAPHER’S HYMN TO ANATOLIA IN LYCIAN FIELDS THE HILLS ARE ALIVE WITH FLOWERS

CORN 55 KAPAK 1 OFS SN.indd 3

20/01/17 08:45

May–June 2017


LALE SPECIAL OFFER

May –June 2017

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IWI BOARD

JOIN THE IWI BOARD & TEAMS

ALL ROLES ARE VOLUNTARY

Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr.org Events Coordinator

Lead teams to coordinate fun, fundraising events (approximately four per year, including the Christmas Festival). You need proven experience in Event or Project Management and be able to manage events from initiation through to lessons learned

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Advertising Administrator

Works with the Advertising Coordinator and Lale Editor to attract new advertisers, and ensure that current advertisers are receiving the promotional support they signed up to. Good administration and people skills required

Asian-side Mums ‘N Kids Playgroup Organiser

Works with the Mums ‘N Kids Administrator to organise playgroups on the Asian side; help with the organisation of larger children-focused events. This is a great way to meet other mothers and be a part of a fun team.


COMMUNITY

t e g s ’ t e L Together Your Neighbourhood Community Meetup (NCM) administrator organizes meet-ups and activities in your area. This is a great chance to connect with other women and discover what IWI has to offer.

Unsure what area you are in and who to contact? Ask Maria Eroğlu at ncm@iwi-tr.org

MACENTA (Beşıktaş, Levent) Leen Saket, macenta@iwi-tr.org

PEMBE (Bebek)

Olga Treve, pembe@iwi-tr.org

SARI (Sarıyer)

Szilvia Nagy, sari@iwi-tr.org

BEYAZ (Ortaköy)

Wendy Serter, beyaz@iwi-tr.org

MOR (Nişantaşı, Beyoğlu) Anna Mozejko, mor@iwi-tr.org

TURKUAZ (İstinye)

MAVİ (Göktürk)

Anke Tamer, mavi@iwi-tr.org

YEŞİL (Yesilköy, Bakirköy) Lida Rowhani, yesil@iwi-tr.org

TURUNCU (Çengelköy)

Gaye Hiçdönmez, turuncu@iwi-tr.org

LACIVERT (Beykoz)

Skaidrite Dzene, lacivert@iwi-tr.org

KIRMIZI (Kadıköy, Üsküdar) Gabriele Sailer, kirmizi@iwi-tr.org

Szilvia Nagy, turkuaz@iwi-tr.org

New To Istanbul?

Every month we hold Newcomer Coffee Mornings where you can learn more about IWI and Istanbul. Contact us to find out more.

EUROPEAN SIDE

Ayşe Yücel, newcomerseurope@iwi-tr.org

ASIAN SIDE

Gabriele Sailer, newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

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MUMS ’N KIDS

MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network. Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator Lyubov Gürler at mumsnkids@iwi-tr.org if you have any questions or suggestions. The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events. Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Coordinator: Ayşe Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Coordinator: Merle Toddlers (2+) Coordinator: Joanna Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Coordinator: Aida

PLAYGROUPS AT SCHOOLS Bosphorus International PreSchool, Emirgan Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weatherpermitting). Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided. When: Fridays Time: 10am-11:30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette LaffanPersembe at preschool@bipschool.net or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Thursdays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child. www.bipschool.net.

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British International School, Zekeriyaköy

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul

Indoor and outdoor play (weatherpermitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Baby Playgroup for Boys and Girls

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at amandailhan@bis.k12.tr or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116 www.bis.k12.tr.

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 50TL per session, (no blockbooking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ edensgardenpreschool.com or telephone 0212 262 4302 www.edensgardenpreschool.com.


MUMS ’N KIDS Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Toddler Music and Movement Class. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones. When: Tuesdays and Thursdays Time: 9:30-12:00 Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at maresa@woodsviewpreschool.com or by telephone on 0212 299 3906. www.woodsviewpreschool.com

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www. ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@ playtolearn.com.tr or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272. www.playtolearn.com.tr

Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or sariyer@ingilizceanakoulu.com *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Besiktas

Full Circle Healing Doula List

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at fotinicafe@gmail.com or telephone 0533 093 9992. Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey www.fotinicafe.com

Do’um

Gymboree Play and Music

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes. Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development. Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour. School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members. Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at esratasar@gymboreeturkey.com or telephone 212 275 8787. www.gymboreeturkey.com

Our House

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums. There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim. Please contact Melissa at info@hotpot.web.tr or telephone 0212 343 5353. www.hotpot.web.tr

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side. Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit www.fullcirclehealing.org. Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. www.do-um.com After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. www.lotsoflovelyart.com Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development. www.ourhouse.club

Atölye Hippo - Your Art Studio in Yenikoy

A brand new kids’ space in Yeniköy – Istanbul! Arts & crafts workshops (ages 6-14), walk-in studio alternatives, mommy & me groups, play groups, movies nights, karaoke parties, Go sessions, Zumba dance… At Atölye Hippo, we want your kids to spend quality time, discovering, creating and designing. Whether you want to exploit those after school idle times, or schedule your weekends with exciting countless workshop alternatives, Atölye Hippo is the right place. Alternatively, Atölye Hippo workshops may also be offered at your premises, be it a special corporate event, a compound gathering, special parties, birthdays or celebrations at your homes… We are proud to announce that, we very recently started going to schools as an after-school club...you may run into us at your school:) Contacts us at: info@atolye-hippo.com 0542 521 21 30 www.atolye-hippo.com

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GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS Have a particular passion or want to learn one? IWI has various social clubs and affiliated groups in which to get involved. It is a great way to expand your community and make new friends! Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-Anon Open AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ). There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www.aa-europe.net Asian Ladies of Istanbul The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together. A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at kim.cakirkaya@gmail.com or 0533 463 6930 for further information. ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a yearround programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111. AWl (American Women of Istanbul) AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul. AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee. Email Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil at awiistanbul@gmail.com. Belgian Friends of Istanbul The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner. Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc. Email bfistanbul@gmail.com.

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Book Club There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members. Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) mary.akguner@gmail.com Boy Scouts/Cub Scouts The Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and valuesbased leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs. Older boys (ages 1118) are welcome to join Boy Scouts. Activities include hiking and camping. Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail. com or 0532 314 11 34. Bridge Group Our bridge group meets on Fridays at 10.30am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319. C@rma C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform, www.4carma.com, and we also organise events every two months at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact info@4carma.com. CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of Istanbul Today with more than 200 members, this group was created 36 years ago by women who lived, live and will live in Istanbul. Created to unite Latin American, Spaniards and others who know our language and want to practice, know each other, help each other, learn, have fun and share in this, our life in Istanbul. Email: chicasestambul2016@gmail.com Facebook: Chicas Estambul CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Armanda Campaner armandacampaner@ttmail.com or Elsa Zambonini elsazambonini@yahoo.com, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website info@circoloroma.com.

IWI Craft Group Contact Gaye Hiçdönmez at gayehicdonmez@gmail.com or 0532 700 0693. Die Bruecke Die Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website www.bruecke-istanbul.com, email info@ bruecke-istanbul.com. DNSI - The Dutch School of Istanbul We provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between three and 16 with at least one parent with Dutch nationality. We also provide lessons to students aged three to 13, who would like to learn Dutch as a foreign language. We also offer a oneweek Dutch summer school. Please check our website www.dnsi.nu or email secretaris@dnsi.nu. Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the Poor Email Mother Mary psdptr@gmail.com or phone 0212 296 4608. Friends of India Association (FOIA) The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events. Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities. If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik: jugnusaglik@yahoo.com, Diya: khera.diya@gmail.com. We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA). Girl Scouts The Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham usagsoistanbul@gmail.com or phone 054 2300 24 92. InterNations InterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website internations.org.


GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS

International Women’s Bible Study This group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Besiktas (directions available at www. ottomansrugby.com). Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

Istanbul Accueil Welcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul. We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@ gmail.com or visit our website www. istanbulaccueil.org.

Mahjong Club Our Mahjong group meets every Monday at 10.30am in each others’ home where we are served a light lunch. We usually finish by 4pm

iTeam You are invited to the Expat Football Community. We are amateurs who enjoy playing and learning football. Age, skills and experience do not matter. All that matters is that you wish to play. We offer special training just for ladies and co-ed matches with men. We use Turkish (our Coach, Mehmet Sabri is Turkish). In Europe, Şişli - Ferikoy every Monday from 20:00 till 22:00. On Asian side - in Bostanci on Thursdays, from 20:00 till 21:00. If you have any questions, please contact us on our FB Page www.facebook.com/iTeamFootball/

IWI Tennis Group If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group. The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar at 0535 390 4983 or email kenandundar911@hotmail.com. You can also contact IWI Sports Events Coordinator Olga at 0531 945 2588 or email pautova@hotmail.com Luso Brasileiro Portuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653. Istanbul International Rugby Center Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken. The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: www.istanbulrugbycenter.com Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football Club We practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in

Mahjong is a Chinese game played in different ways, but our group plays the international way. It is a brick game, quite easy to learn. Previous experience is not required, and we will teach you how to play. If you are interested please contact Tuya Cooke: 05385551528; tcooke2006@yahoo.com

NVI – Dutch speaking people of Istanbul The Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutch-speaking people. For further information check our website (www.nv-istanbul.org) or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@ nv-istanbul.org. PAWI The Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/ Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul. PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact pawimembership@gmail.com or visit www.pawistanbul.wordpress.com. Photography Club The photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semiprofessional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general photography topics. Contact: Katherıne Baker at photoclubofistanbul@gmail.com. IWI Rollerblading Biking Group Asian-side meetup. Bikes can be rented, bring your own rollerblades. Contact Gabriele Sailer for more information gsailer@paradisefruit.eu. IWI Running Group The programme will run on a rolling basis, with membership renewable every month. If members need to travel, members may rejoin the group upon return. New members can join anytime.

Thursdays at 7pm, Sundays at 8am Caddebostan sahil. 120 USD per month. Contact Marina Khonina at marina.khonina@gmail.com or 0534 9828307

Speech Bubbles Speech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@speechbubbles. org or www.speechbubbles.org. South Africans in Istanbul Please contact esbie@hotmail.com if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans. SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association) SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@ swea.org. Support Group for Parents of Children with Special Needs Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child? Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700. Toastmasters International – Istanbul Chapter The English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment. ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim. Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email vpmembership@istanbultoastmasters.org or president@istanbultoastmasters.org.

Union Church of Istanbul We are an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Please visit ucistanbul.org for more information.

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IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS / PARTNER OFFERS HOUSE FOR RENT

Long-term rental available August 2017. Semi-detached, two-level furnished house in central Istanbul, close to public transport. Features spacious living room, dining room with garden entrance, double bedroom, a garret attic double bedroom and a single bedroom. Front and rear gardens and driveway parking for one car. Ganime Donmez ganimedonmez@yahoo.com +9005322577608.

PIANO LESSONS

I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the student’s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you! Sandra 0532 422 0413

PROFESSIONAL MASSAGE

I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

THERAPIST IN ETİLER

Selin is an IWI Member, TV-Personality and public figure She can help you with: relationship problems, break-ups, divorce, helping to find the ideal spouse, family issues, jealousy, dealing with difficult relatives, getting your kids to listen. Call to make an appointment/or order her book: 0212 257 3617

TURKISH LESSONS

PRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule. Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email rbensan@superonline.com for full information.

DIGITAL CONSULTANCY

Information technology coach ( Apple and Social Media) - Strategy consulting of digital information, social media strategy, optimization of communication - Consulting and training on Apple computers - Repair, maintain, installation, for individual and society - Installation Apple and PC compatible networks - Community management and social media strategy specialist Please call : 05394838469 Mail: bejihamida@hotmail.com

PERSONAL LIFE COACHING

With 15 years’ experience in expat living, I am ready to assist you during your transition period. I am a certified Life Coach, Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist. I speak German and English fluently. I would be happy to offer a 20% discount to IWI members. Ozlem Hersek: 0532 616 5045 ozlemhersek@gmail.com

YOGA FOR ALL LEVELS IN ŞIŞLI

Dilek & Ozgun are two yoga instructors who have started weekly yoga classes in their home studio. The studio is a 5-7 minute walk from the Şişli Metro. Please make a reservation as it is limited to 8-10 participants maximum. Classes are suitable for every level of practitioner. IWI members receive a 25% discount. Contact them through Facebook at /DilekOzgunYoga, email: dilekozgunyoga@gmail. com or text 0530 394 6431.

ASYA TÖMER

Asya Tömer in Mecidiyeköy offers a 10% discount to the IWI members and their direct families for general Turkish courses, evening course and Turkish summer course program (July-August 2017). Members only have to show their membership card to get the discount. More information: info@asyatomer.com, facebook (Asya Tomer) or Phone: 0553 799 1713.

EKRIA

EKRIA is a timeless, contemporary jewellery brand for men and women. The future is its endless inspiration. It rejects all notion of unnecessary flourishes, finding the ultimate sophistication in subtle design where strength is key. With a minimalist approach, it offers a universal take on luxury accessories, defined through a capability of constantly edging ahead of the curve. London-based EKRIA was founded in 2013 by Esra Karadeniz, a designer from Turkey with a keen eye and unstoppable talent. EKRIA consists of one eternal collection, The Timeless Collection, serving as a central point for the two additional seasonal collections. Each EKRIA piece is 1 Micron Gold Plated Sterling Silver, crafted with laser cut precision. To benefit from a 40£ equivalent voucher on any of your purchase, enter the EKRIAFORIWI code on www.ekria.com. Come to visit us at the showroom in Istanbul: Vali KonağıCad/Kodaman Sk no: 9, Mim Plaza, A Blok, 5th floor, office 83, Nişantaşı, Istanbul. info@ekria.com Phone: +90 212 230 91 10

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IWI PARTNER OFFERS In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card HILTON ISTANBUL BOSPHORUS SPECIAL OFFERS

Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus, Turkey’s first 5-star International hotel, is pleased to offer a 15% special discount to IWI members for several services at their hotel, including breakfast, lunch and dinner at one of their many restaurants; High Tea at the Lobby Lounge; and on their spa treatments. They also offer different family-friendly packages with special access to children’s pools and playgrounds. For IWI members, they can also organise special weekend children’s activities in the hotel. For more information or a reservation, you may call 0090 212 315 6000 or email sales.istanbul@hilton.com.

CONCEPT LANGUAGES

Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30. For information and reservations, please contact: Başak Toksoy 0212 351 1840 or basak.toksoy@conceptlanguages.com

TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONS

Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city. Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ajansmedya.com. www.timeoutistanbul.com

MOMMA ZEN/ANNEZEN

Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy. We offer many types of services, classes and workshops for all women, especially expectant mothers, babies and children. We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes. Momma Zen/ Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. www.momma-zen.com or www.annezen.com/program

SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTER

Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, Istanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for IWI members. Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212 353 6383 www.swisscenterdent.com

BOYNUZ STEAK HOUSE & KASAP

Boynuz Steak House is offering IWI members a 10% discount. Poligon Mah. Poligon Cd. Fevzi Cakmak Sk. No:2 Istinye Phone: 0212 229 1910. www.boynuzet.com

ISTANBUL UNIVERSITY LANGUAGE CENTER

Istanbul University Language Center is a department of Istanbul University offering foreign languages education (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) in addition to Turkish as a Foreign Language, in the light of up-todate developments in education and with the help of the academic background of Istanbul University. IULC is offering a discount on language lessons to members of IWI. For more information, visit: dilmerkezi.istanbul.edu.tr/en/ or call: 0212 243 6729.

MARRİOTT ŞİŞLİ SPA & HEALTH CLUB

Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive a 20% discount. Appointments are required, Phone: 0212 375 0100 ext. 3695

SHANDRA SPA DENTIST BURÇIN GOFF

Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. We offer IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, Çengelköy-Üsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email: bhtgoff@ yahoo.com

C.C.C. -CHRISTINE COTTON CLUB

The established PLUS SIZE BRAND for Women in Turkey since 1985 – C.C.C. is happy to offer a special 10% discount on all purchases by IWI Members. The discount is valid in the C.C.C. Shops in Kadıköy, Profilo AVM and Bağdat Caddesi. Please check our website for our new collection: www.cccshopping.com C.C.C. Kadıköy: Osmanağa Mah. Süleymanpaşa Sk. No:5, Kadıköy, Phone: 0216 450 5939, C.C.C. Profilo AVM: B Kapısı Girişi Zemin Kat No:04 Mecidiyeköy, Phone: 0212 212 5752, C.C.C. Saskinbakkal: Bağdat Caddesi No: 372 Suadiye, Phone: 0216 411 7596

FOTINI CAFÉ

Have you been looking for somewhere to have a relaxing and holistic facial? Try the Skincare Specialists at Shandra Spa, Bebek. Friendly, experienced and results-oriented. For more details and to book an appointment visit: https://shandra-spa.salonized.com. IWI members receive 20% discount on treatments and 10% discount on products.

CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI

British salon owner, Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 15% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out Spa is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor and the latest in technology. LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information, please contact Ann Marie at 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.com.tr

PRIVATE TENNIS LESSONS

For kids and adults. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer a 20% discount to IWI members. Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer with more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email: mert_ozgenc@yahoo.com

Fotini Cafe is offering IWI Members a 10% discount. Francalacı cad. 26/1, Arnavutköy/Istanbul.Tel: 0533 093 99 92: www. fotinicafe.com

ADA SUITES CONRAD ISTANBUL BOSPHORUS

Make Wednesday night jazz night at Summit Bar & Terrace at the at Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus. Savour the smooth sounds, trio performances and breath-taking views of the Bosphorus every Wednesday between 8:30 pm and 11:30 pm. IWI Members receive a 15% discount for Wednesday Vibes until May 31, 2017. For further information or a reservation, you may call 0090 212 310 2525 or email Conrad_Istanbul@conradhotels.com.

Ada Suites believes that each guest has unique needs and expectations, and we know our hospitality will make you feel special. Located in the heart of Nişantaşı, you are minutes away from the hippest luxury shopping in İstanbul, and the best restaurants and cafes in the city. Ada Suites is also walking distance from major health centers like American Hospital and Acıbadem Hospital. We are happy to offer a 20% discount to IWI Members, and wish you a peaceful stay (Code number is IWIADA20). www.adasuites.com

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IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy

MEMBERSHIP

Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org. Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location. Changing Address? Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at membership@iwi-tr.org.

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator membership@iwi-tr.org

ADVERTISING

To place an advertisement please contact us at advertising@iwi-tr.org. Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted. Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words. Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT. All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer. No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

DISCLAIMER Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers. Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.

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