Ghana Guide Challenges Worldwide ICS-Entrepreneur
Table of Contents Welcome……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….3
PRE-DEPARTURE Packing Guide - Essentials……………………………………………………………………………………………………………4 Clothing……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….……….7 Things People Wish They Had & Hadn’t Packed……………………………………………………………….…………8
IN-COUNTRY Map of Ghana …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………9 Daily Life………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….………….10 Cultural Insight…………………………………………………………………………………………………..……….………………13 Transport……………………………………………………………………………………………………..………….………………….15 Main Bus Station & Routes You Will Use………………………………………………………………………………………17 Health & Emergency Contacts……………………………………………………………………………….……………………18 Map of Accra………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………………………….19 Communications……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………20 Words & Phrases……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………21 Places to Go…………………………………………………………………………………………….……………………………………21 Malls & Beaches……………………………………………………………………………………….……………………………………22 Ghanaian Food & Dishes………………………………………………………………………………….……………………………23 Eating Whilst Out & About……………………………………………………………..……………………………………………25 Food Highlights………………………………………………………………………………...…………………………………………26 Things You Must Try Before You Leave…………………………………………………………..……………………………27
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Akwaaba! Welcome! Congratulations on being selected for the Challenges Worldwide ICS-E programme in Ghana! You’re about to embark on a great adventure! Accra is a hectic capital city, teeming with the life of people from all over the country. We hope this guide will be a useful tool for you, both in your predeparture preparations, and during the placement. Inside, you’ll find tips about everything you need to know for ICS-E life in Accra: from what to pack, where to go, how to get around, and what to say! The best tip we can give, however, is simply to embrace it. Enjoy yourself, work hard and challenge yourself to change your world!
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Packing Guide - Essentials
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Clothing
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Things people wish they had and hadn’t packed Other items people wished they bought… • Books/toys/art materials for kids in host home • Multivitamins • More underwear! • Films and TV shows on your laptop • Back-up charger or powerbank • Grab the small pillow from the plane! • Swimming costume – though you can’t swim in the sea or lake you may be able to in local swimming pools • Bandana/cloth/handkerchief (many Africans carry one around for wiping sweat off their faces and particularly when sitting in the stuffy confines of a trotro, you will sweat!) • Reading light for power cuts • Plugboard (UK 3-pin plugs are used)
And items they wish they hadn’t bothered bringing… • Water flask – you can buy water everywhere • Hand washing soap for clothes – the homes have it • So many toiletries! • A fleece/so many jumpers – why?! One jumper is enough if it gets chilly in the evening • SLR camera – it never feels safe enough to carry about! You are an instant target as soon as you get it out in public. • Cream or white clothes - these will discolour very quickly • So many pairs of socks (although trainer socks are useful for being inside as you will take shoes off in every home) • Mosquito net – the host home should provide this
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Daily Life
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Cultural Insight Religion is exceptionally important in the lives of Ghanaians, and church is a big part of Sunday. It is highly likely that conversation of your religion will be brought up early in meeting someone. Ghanaians find it hard to understand the lack of religion in the lives of most Westerners, and topics such as atheism, homosexuality are highly sensitive Knowing just a couple words of the local language makes a huge impact. Ask your partners to teach you to say ‘Thank You’ (Medaase) and ‘How Are You’ (Wo ho tes3n) in Twi. Ghanaians feel extremely happy knowing that, you are learning a thing or two about their culture. Time’s a Factor (Ghana Man Time) Brace yourself on the most important facts to keep in mind about the Ghanaian workplace before you start your placement. One key fact, which is probably particularly important to remember for those of you who are used to a rigid and loaded schedule, is the concept of time. Flexibility is vital here, as punctuality is not seen as overly important (nor fully appreciated). You should always try to leave a time buffer between meetings to be able to react to any eventualities. However, as flexible as the local understanding of time may be, it is important to always schedule appointments ahead.
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Other Key Values As in numerous other countries, you will have a hard time separating business from your personal life. Getting to know your colleagues and business partners is very important, and topics which are almost always brought up also include personal ones such as family, health, or social life. In fact, family life is still one of the main social pillars in the Ghanaian society and valued very highly. When getting to know new people in your work life, take the time and get to know one another a little bit. You should also not be surprised if your initial meetings with business partners contain little to no talk about business. Hierarchy and the respect a higher social status commands are very important, and not addressing higher-ups and elders in the appropriate manner are a ready source of social faux pas in Ghana. When in doubt, make a point of asking the first colleague you are introduced to about the proper ways of addressing people around you. Professional and academic titles are just as important as the hierarchical addresses mentioned above. If someone you meet around the workplace has credentials, you are sure to find out. You are expected to address these people with their respective titles. You might already be familiar with the concept of ‘face’, i.e. honor, dignity, and good reputation. A possible loss of face is horrid to a Ghanaian and should not be taken lightly. As the individual is subordinate to the family in Ghanaian culture, loss of face will also directly affect the next of kin. If you have somehow maneuvered your way into a situation where your counterpart could lose face, you will realize it by the silence that will fill the room. This is the common reaction in situations like these; try not to break or fill the silence. As causing loss of face to others is also dreaded, the conversation style in Ghana is rather indirect. In Ghana, always greet people first when you enter an area. Otherwise, you may wonder why people are just looking at you when you enter a room. They are waiting for you to offer a greeting, which will be received with a big smile and a warm reply. Ghanaians are typically very friendly, relaxed people so it’s very easy to make conversation. Always use your right hand to give and receive items, and to eat. In Ghanaian culture, your left hand is considered your 'toilet hand'. It is a common practice to give money with your right hand while at the same time receiving your purchase into the same hand. Taking photographs of people unknown to the photographer must be conducted with the same level of consideration as in one's own country. Most Ghanaians are happy to pose for pictures, as it is considered polite. Drinking alcohol and smoking in public are serious faux pas and should be avoided. Public intoxication to any degree is generally viewed with extreme disapproval. Such activities are perfectly acceptable in a local bar though. Neither drinking nor smoking are prevalent in the way they are in the UK, and it’s highly unlikely your host home will have alcohol in the house. Remember to share. People in Africa do not live the independent lives of Western cultures. Sharing food and sharing stories are two of the best ways to join this culture of interdependence. 14
Transport Getting around Accra can look a little daunting at first. With few street signs, maps or transport guides it would at first appear that there’s no “system”. This is incorrect, as the Trotro system is very organized and reliable (barring inevitable flat tyres and breakdowns), and taxi drivers are more knowledgeable of routes than in most cities around the world. Trotro Trotros are usually very crowded and dilapidated minivans and minibuses that act as the city's public transit system. They are the cheapest way to travel (fare ranges from GH₵0.80-4.00), but can be very slow, especially during rush hour. Trotros travel along well known routes in the city, and stop at various points along the way (some stops have signs, others don't). The Trotro system can take some getting used to, but you can ask a local to help direct you to the right route and bus. As a Trotro approaches a stop, a "mate" (the driver's/master’s assistant) will usually yell out the side of the window where the TroTro is going. Once you are on board, it is very important to prompt the “mate” when you are few meters away from your destination and tell him you will alight at the next ‘Bus Stop’. On foot Though the city is fairly spread out, Accra is relatively safe to walk around during the day (and night, in many areas). Watch for goats and other mammals on the street as well. 15
Taxi To flag a taxi wave your arm with your finger pointed down to the ground. On a busy street you will have many taxis driving past trying to offer you their service by honking at you. There are very few Ghanaian cabs with meters. Never get into a taxi without first asking the fare - you must negotiate how much you are willing to pay before you start the trip. Try to ask someone local how much a trip to a certain location usually costs. Also make sure to haggle hard as most taxi drivers will often try to charge three times (or more) the going rate to foreigners. Relax, and don't show urgency. If the first taxi won't come down on his price, wait for another as they are plentiful. Do have an idea of your route, taxi drivers navigate by landmarks e.g. roundabouts, traffic lights, petrol stations [not street names, and make sure you have a local SIM card in your phone so you can ring someone at your destination and pass the phone to the taxi driver. Taxis do not have to be so private, though, and it's exceedingly rare for Ghanaians to hire one privately (although they will assume that foreigners want a private one). The rate is in theory one fourth of a private ride, but, again, foreigners taking a private ride tend to get taken for a little extra. It's more confusing, to be sure, but chances are they are going in the direction they are already headed, and you can just ask if they're going towards a major landmark, especially a market.
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Main Bus Stations/Routes you will use
The ‘STAR’ on the map shows some various Bus Stations (interchanges) you need to know.
Madina Legon Okponglo Shiashie Spanner (Accra Mall) Lapaz Achimota 37 Circle Accra St Johns Dome Weija Kasoa Airport 17
Health & Safety The following hospitals are available in case of emergencies or healthcare: •
University of Ghana Hospital at Legon (Tel: 0244-166387 or 0244621174 (24 hours)
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Cocoa Clinic at Kaneshi around Bubuashie roundabout (Tel: 0302229265, 0302-226769, or 0302-229234)
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Finney hospital at mile 11, off West Hill Mall Road (Tel: 0302-851702 or 0302-851703)
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LaPaz Community Clinic (Tel: 0302-414167 or 0302-417891) St.John’s Hospital at Tantra Hill roundabout (Tel: 0302-409224 or 0501-258518)
Malaria Tablets Cases of malaria have occurred for both UK and In-Country volunteers, so it is vital that you take your malaria tablets as prescribed. Please make sure you take them with food to avoid stomach upsets and nausea. Your homestay has been checked to ensure it complies with mosquito protection (eg. Nets or window screens). Stomach Upsets and Typhoid Fever The surest way to avoid infections is to avoid uncooked street-food (eg. Fruit), tap water and poor sanitation. Pickpocketing & Theft Wherever there are crowds, hustle and bustle (eg. On a Trotro, or at the markets), the chances for opportunistic theft massively increase. Keep your wallet/purse in a zipped pocket and do not carry items of value around.
Emergency Contacts Dr Richard Amissah
+233 (0)202 640415
University Hospital, East Legon
0244166387 / 0244621174
DPS Freeman (police)
+233 (0)244 630186
Ghana Police Service Deputy Commissioner
+233 (0)302 662441
Police Emergency Service
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Ghana Fire Service
999/192
Ambulance Service
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Chartis Insurance 24 hr contact
+44 (0)208 762 8326
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Communication Vodafone is the network typically used by UK volunteers, allowing mobile communicating via Whatsapp to be cost effective. Vodafone X Offer
Included
Price
Quick fix
free community calls, free on-net SMS, free Whatsapp, Facebook and 200MB data (lasts 24 hours) free community calls, free on-net SMS, free Whatsapp, Facebook and 200MB data (lasts 3 days) free community calls, free on-net SMS, free Whatsapp, Facebook, Twitter and 500MB data (lasts 7 days) free community calls, free on-net SMS, free Whatsapp, Facebook, Twitter and 1.2GB data (lasts 30 days) free community calls, free on-net SMS, free Whatsapp, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and 2.5GB data (lasts 30 days)
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X Social
X-Weekly
X-Monthly
X-treme Monthly
2.49
5.99
11.99
24.99
All plans come with free community calls (Vodafone-Vodafone) Prices are accurate as of September 2015 SIM Cards: 2 GHc each Vouchers to top up are available from multiple street sellers and Vodafone stores To top up: Call 134 or Dial *134* fourteen digit number # Internet dongles using the Vodafone network will also be provided and topping up is via the same process as mentioned above. Please check with Vodafone Ghana (Vodafone.com.gh) for current plans.
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Words and Phrases
Places to go
Twe (pronounced “tree”)
Where you can work
“3” is pronounced “eh/ay” “)” is pronounced “o” as in orange not post
West Hills Mall - Second Cup Website: mysecondcup.com Where: West Hills Mall Wifi: 30 minutes with purchase
Akwaaba - Welcome Medaase – Thank you Ma tay - I’ve heard Woe dinn de s3n? – What is your name? May dinn de Sam – I am called Sam Atay s3n ? - How are you? 3y3 - I am good/fine/ok b)k)) - Cool Obronii - White person 3k)m de me – I am hungry. Mee k)da - I am going to sleep Me yaray - I am sick
Vodafone Internet Café Website: vodafone.com.gh Where: A&C mall (East Legon) Wifi: reliable
Pidgin Charlie - friend/buddy paddy - friend nonfa - non factual moroo -tomorrow yestee - yesterday morning tee- morning gb3k3 -evening chooo - food what b your name? – what is your name? how be? - how are you? you dey barb? – Do you understand? I dey barb – I understand. I dey hung – I am hungry. I dey lef - I am leaving. I dey thirst - I am thirsty. I dey go bed – I am going to sleep.
Where you can hang out Chez Afrik- East Legon Afrikiko - Accra Paparelli’s- East Legon Kristal night club - Osu Duplex night club - Osu Epo’s - Osu Republic Bar - Osu London’s Bar – Choice (Weija) Ultimate Hotel –Bortianor (Weija) Kojo’s Place –Dome CFC Estate Honeysuckle – East Legon & Usu
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Malls
Beaches
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Ghanaian Food & Dishes
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Eating Whilst Out and About
NOTE: It is important to only purchase food that has been cooked or thoroughly washed with filtered water. Please see Challenges Worldwide advise regarding health. 25
Highlights Ground Nut Soup Frequently served with a meat (beef or chicken) and either Fufu or rice.
Fufu Made from the root vegetable, cassava. Is a typical carbohydrate in a dish. Looks like a dumpling and is eaten with your right hand.
Plantain A vegetable that can be served alone (as chips) or with a dish. Can be boiled or fried or sold in packets like crisps.
Banku A whitish consistent paste made from fermented corn and cassava dough. Served with soup, stew or a pepper sauce with fish.
RedRed Made from cowpeas (black-eyed peas), with red pepper and red palm oil into a stew usually served with Fried Plantains
Indomie Instant noodles, known by the brand name “Indomie�, typically mixed with sausage pieces and vegetables.
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Things you must try before you leave… 1. Wander around a market. Medina is especially good as it is not intimidatingly massive and sells everything! Keep an eye out for the goats at the back.... 2. Get something made to measure -‐ fabric can be bought everywhere and you can ask your host families/counterparts where to find a good but inexpensive seamstress. 3. Go to church. Whatever your opinions on religion, experiencing a lively, booty shaking Ghanaian church is worth the early start on a Sunday. 4. Try fresh Coconut from a roadside vendor. 1.50GHC per coconut, drink the Coconut water then ask the seller to scoop out the fresh flesh for you. 5. Jamestown Lighthouse -‐ you can get a tour guide to take you up to the top but be warned this is not for the fainthearted! If you’re not scared of heights, the view from the top (and being above the pollution!) is totally worth it. 6. Go Dancing to highlife -‐ Chez Afrique on Friday is a hot spot (just don’t break your curfew!) 7. Escape to Bojo -‐ arrive around midday to give yourself plenty of time to enjoy this slice of paradise and get home in the evening, especially if you live far away. 8. Try FuFu. Everyone either loves or hates it, but the Ghanaian speciality should be tried at least once! 27
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