Draping portfolio

Page 1

Practical exercise #1 • Yohji Yamamoto A W 96/97


Dress pattern • scale 1:10 Fabric recommended: thin & thick wool

I

Double layer dress with open armhole to waist line and dots on breast line. Back totally open with separate skirt.

II belt II cut on fold x 2

dress I top cut x2

technical drawings 2

1

skirt II cut on fold x2

1

2

dress skirt I cut on fold x2

I dress pattern II skirt pattern


Making-off practical exercise #1 •

„I'M. searching for a new proportion. What interests me is the 'space' between the person wearing the clothes and the clothes themselves - the airiness, the movement, the silhouette'. e space between the garment and the body is of great importance to Yamamoto. It allows the wearer to inhabit the garment naturally, without being constricted by its shape. e structure of these two sculptural white felt pieces, determined partly by the material itself, offers such a space.” Yohji Yamamoto

Dress inspired by Yohji Yamamoto dress with high collar and open back. Two separate parts- skirt and open dress worn together.


Projecto Prรกtico #2 โ ข Liu Zhangruiyi 2013


Dress pattern layer I • scale 1:10

inspiration

technical drawings

2I

1I 1I

dress I C

5I

2I

5I

neck

front

2I neck

3I

4I

4I

back dress I

front

dress I D

3I

dress I C

E

dress I

back

back

B

dress I

dress I

A

F


Layer II pattern • scale 1:10

6II 6II neck

dress II J 2II 2II

dress II H

dress II

8 II

D

7II

1II 1II

dress II

8II 7II

C

dress II

3II

3II

F

4II

3II

3II

5II

technical drawings dress II 5II A

B

dress II

dress II

G

E

zipper

dress II

î “is collection, entitled 'Body in Disorder' was inspired by the concept of a distorted body image; expressed through the combination of broken lines, overlapping sheers, seemingly misplaced details and creative layering. Zhangruiyi's use of smooth, yet unusual lines in delicate white fabric distort the body with a delicacy and attention to detail that play with the idea of illusion with grace. http://taotales.com/BODY-IN-DISORDER


Making-o Practical exercise #2 •

Drawing and preparing parts of dress. Quick handmade sketches pinned on mannequin to make draping easier.

Completed model of dress patterns. Transparent dress inspired by dress of Liu Zhangruiyi. Project consists two layers of fabric.


Practical exercise #2 • Marina Hoermanseder


Dress pattern • scale 1:5 technical drawings

x2

x2

collar cuton fold cut x2

x2

x4

x4

dress skirt front cut x2

x2

dress skirt back cut x2

detal cut x2

x3

x3

dress top cut x2

x3

x2

x2

x2

x2

x2 arm part x2 x2

x2

inspiration


Making-off practical exercise #3

First step of draping technique. Two different colors of ribbons pinned on mannequin to make a pattern.

Dress inspired by Marina Hoermanseder’s dress came fromSpring / Summer 2014 diploma collection Ilpox of orthopaedic inspired leather buckles and strappings.


Practical exercise#4 • Author's project


Jacket pattern • scale 1:10

Fabric recommended: wool (around 360 gr/m.). lining lining addidtional layer front

sleeve cut x2

cut x2 lining sleeve cut x2 addidtional layer front

hood x4

addidtional layer front

cut x2

hood

zipper y shield

cut x2

lining

hood facing x 2

hood x2

addidtional layer front

pocket bag cut x2

cut x2

jacket front cut x2 jacket back cut x2

sleeve cut x2 sleeve cut x2 facing cut x2

pocket cover cut x2

Collar cut on fold x2

jacket front cut x2

belt

cut on fold

lining cut x 2

lining cut x 2

Double layer jacket with high collar, hood and two adjustable foxtails. Belt in waist, two pleated pocket on the front. Lining and facing on the bottom.


Making-o practical exercise #4

On the left side: rst paper pattern pinned on mannequin to check the size and proportion. Notes marked on paper makes work easier and let to quick change in pattern. Final sample jacket made from cotton fabric.


Marta Borowska erasmus student Mestrado em Design de Moda FAULisboa Unidade curricular Draping [1.ยบ ano 2014-15] Prof. Aux. Ines Simoes


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