Practical exercise #1 • Yohji Yamamoto A W 96/97
Dress pattern • scale 1:10 Fabric recommended: thin & thick wool
I
Double layer dress with open armhole to waist line and dots on breast line. Back totally open with separate skirt.
II belt II cut on fold x 2
dress I top cut x2
technical drawings 2
1
skirt II cut on fold x2
1
2
dress skirt I cut on fold x2
I dress pattern II skirt pattern
Making-off practical exercise #1 •
„I'M. searching for a new proportion. What interests me is the 'space' between the person wearing the clothes and the clothes themselves - the airiness, the movement, the silhouette'. e space between the garment and the body is of great importance to Yamamoto. It allows the wearer to inhabit the garment naturally, without being constricted by its shape. e structure of these two sculptural white felt pieces, determined partly by the material itself, offers such a space.” Yohji Yamamoto
Dress inspired by Yohji Yamamoto dress with high collar and open back. Two separate parts- skirt and open dress worn together.
Projecto Prรกtico #2 โ ข Liu Zhangruiyi 2013
Dress pattern layer I • scale 1:10
inspiration
technical drawings
2I
1I 1I
dress I C
5I
2I
5I
neck
front
2I neck
3I
4I
4I
back dress I
front
dress I D
3I
dress I C
E
dress I
back
back
B
dress I
dress I
A
F
Layer II pattern • scale 1:10
6II 6II neck
dress II J 2II 2II
dress II H
dress II
8 II
D
7II
1II 1II
dress II
8II 7II
C
dress II
3II
3II
F
4II
3II
3II
5II
technical drawings dress II 5II A
B
dress II
dress II
G
E
zipper
dress II
î “is collection, entitled 'Body in Disorder' was inspired by the concept of a distorted body image; expressed through the combination of broken lines, overlapping sheers, seemingly misplaced details and creative layering. Zhangruiyi's use of smooth, yet unusual lines in delicate white fabric distort the body with a delicacy and attention to detail that play with the idea of illusion with grace. http://taotales.com/BODY-IN-DISORDER
Making-o Practical exercise #2 •
Drawing and preparing parts of dress. Quick handmade sketches pinned on mannequin to make draping easier.
Completed model of dress patterns. Transparent dress inspired by dress of Liu Zhangruiyi. Project consists two layers of fabric.
Practical exercise #2 • Marina Hoermanseder
Dress pattern • scale 1:5 technical drawings
x2
x2
collar cuton fold cut x2
x2
x4
x4
dress skirt front cut x2
x2
dress skirt back cut x2
detal cut x2
x3
x3
dress top cut x2
x3
x2
x2
x2
x2
x2 arm part x2 x2
x2
inspiration
Making-off practical exercise #3
First step of draping technique. Two different colors of ribbons pinned on mannequin to make a pattern.
Dress inspired by Marina Hoermanseder’s dress came fromSpring / Summer 2014 diploma collection Ilpox of orthopaedic inspired leather buckles and strappings.
Practical exercise#4 • Author's project
Jacket pattern • scale 1:10
Fabric recommended: wool (around 360 gr/m.). lining lining addidtional layer front
sleeve cut x2
cut x2 lining sleeve cut x2 addidtional layer front
hood x4
addidtional layer front
cut x2
hood
zipper y shield
cut x2
lining
hood facing x 2
hood x2
addidtional layer front
pocket bag cut x2
cut x2
jacket front cut x2 jacket back cut x2
sleeve cut x2 sleeve cut x2 facing cut x2
pocket cover cut x2
Collar cut on fold x2
jacket front cut x2
belt
cut on fold
lining cut x 2
lining cut x 2
Double layer jacket with high collar, hood and two adjustable foxtails. Belt in waist, two pleated pocket on the front. Lining and facing on the bottom.
Making-o practical exercise #4
On the left side: rst paper pattern pinned on mannequin to check the size and proportion. Notes marked on paper makes work easier and let to quick change in pattern. Final sample jacket made from cotton fabric.
Marta Borowska erasmus student Mestrado em Design de Moda FAULisboa Unidade curricular Draping [1.ยบ ano 2014-15] Prof. Aux. Ines Simoes