Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine N°2 - Summer 2009 by Savoie Mont Blanc Tourisme

SUMMER 2009

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST GREAT LAKES, VANOISE NATIONAL PARK, ROMANTIC MID-SIZE RANGES, SUMMER ACTIVITIES, SPORTS, GLORIOUS TOWNS, WINES AND CHEESES...

MAG SAVOIE-MONT BLANC N°5

LONDRES BRUXELLES LUXEMBOURG FRANCFORT STUTTGART

PARIS

' Ocean Atlantique

FRANCE

ZURICH

HAUTE-SAVOIE SAVOIE LYON

TURIN GENES

RHONE-ALPES

BARCELONE

Mer ' ' Mediterranee

ROME

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION Savoie Mont Blanc invites You to a summer feast Respected Cadogan guides author Philippe Barbour adores Savoie Mont Blanc in summer, and here introduces you to some of its magniﬁcent attractions. Savoie Mont Blanc offers a feast of pleasures in summer as well as winter. The French know this fact well; I’ve come to appreciate it hugely from my many trips to the region in recent years; and, with this magazine, we hope to tempt you into sampling its many delights in the warmer season. Savoie Mont Blanc’s highest mountains may remain alluringly snow-capped throughout the year, but as the temperature rises, much of the attention switches to the region’s gorgeous lakes, the greatest in France. Even if Chamonix and Tignes are irresistible magnets for those intent on reaching the snowy summits in the hottest months, for most, skiing gives way to a host of other exhilarating sports, from white-water-rafting to mountainbiking, and rock-climbing to sailing. Then, of course, there’s the unbeatable (and free) hiking, with stunning natural scenery as your constant companion. I’ve been lucky enough, getting up early in Savoie Mont Blanc, to spot rare ibex and adorable marmots. A different kind of highlight for me came one afternoon when I jumped off a cliff… to go paragliding over lakes and mountains, trying out this exciting sport for the ﬁrst time in my life. I’m pleased to say that one of the region’s many excellent specialist instructors was in command.

ON SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES

MAJESTIC MONT BLANC

TO THE VANOISE NATIONAL PARK

ROMANTIC MID-SIZE RANGES

STUNNING ARRAY OF SUMMER ACTIVITIES EXHILARATING SPORTS

AMAZINGLY VARIED ACCOMMODATION

GLORIOUS TOWNS

VERTIGINOUS VINEYARDS

CLASSIC CHEESES

CULINARY HEIGHTS

PRACTICAL PAGE

Fear not, there are many gentler summer pursuits to savour in Savoie Mont Blanc. If you even ﬁnd the idea of a round of mountain golf or taking a pedal-boat out on one of the lakes too strenuous, then consider the region’s deeply relaxing spas, all given cool contemporary make-overs. Or let cable-cars and extraordinary trains take the strain, whisking you up to sublime viewing platforms. On the cultural side, I’ve enjoyed tracking down Savoyard castles, crafts and churches on well-marked trails. As to the historic towns, such as Aixles-Bains, Annecy, Albertville and Chambéry, they prove rich in all manner of attractions. And on Lake Geneva’s French shore, Thonon-les-Bains and Evian turn out to be about far more than just bottled water. Which reminds me that in talking of Savoie Mont Blanc’s summer feast, I can’t forget to mention the culinary. The cheese is heavenly, the charcuterie divine, plus there are delicious surprises, such as the beautiful fruit and wines produced in the region’s fertile valleys. You can dine in some of the ﬁnest restaurants in France here, or discover enchanting, simple village inns. What’s for sure is that wherever you go in Savoie Mont Blanc in the summertime, breathtaking nature is always on the menu.

Director: Rémy Charmetant - Editorial coordination for this issue: Céline Guillermin (celine.guillermin@savoie-mont-blanc.com) - Corinne Raïh (corinne.raih@savoie-mont-blanc.com) - The following contributed to the production of Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine #2: Alice Ramus (alice. ramus@savoie-mont-blanc.com) - These pieces were researched and written by Philippe Barbour (philippe.barbour@googlemail.com). He is the author and joint photographer for the Cadogan Rhône-Alpes guidebook (www.cadoganguide.com), which goes into more details on Savoie Mont Blanc. Address: 24, bd de la Colonne, 73025 Chambéry Cedex, France - 56, rue Sommeiller, BP 348, 74014 Annecy Cedex, France - 20, rue Croix des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris - Telephone: +33 820 00 73 74 - (The price of an ordinary call to France from Britain) www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.uk - Design: Stim Communication graphique - Printing: Les 2 Ponts - Printed on eco-certiﬁed paper, using plant-derived ink. No part of this publication, neither the texts nor the illustrations, may be reproduced. Free magazine. Not for sale. Non-binding document. Cover : © Savoie Mont Blanc / Lansard - © Savoie Mont Blanc / Smit - © Savoie Mont Blanc / Chabance.

SAVOUR THE SEASIDE ATMOSPHERE ON SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES

FOUR GREAT LAKES © Savoie Mont Blanc / Huchette

Savoie Mont Blanc boasts four great lakes: Lac d’Aiguebelette, Lac d’Annecy, Lac du Bourget, and the southern half of Lac Léman, better known in English as Lake Geneva. They make for wonderful summer destinations, as the postcards of discovery from our British family reveal…

WHEN DECIDING ON WHERE TO GO FOR THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS, IT ISN’T ALWAYS EASY TO MATCH THE CHILDREN’S WISHES WITH THOSE OF THEIR PARENTS! IN THE SMITH FAMILY, GEMMA, 14, AND JEREMY, 6, ARE ADAMANT THEY WANT TO GO TO THE SEASIDE. HOWEVER, THEIR PARENTS HAVE CHOSEN TO TOUR SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES… WHILE PROMISING THE KIDS THAT THEY’LL GET SOMETHING EVEN BETTER THAN AN ORDINARY COASTAL RESORT – THEY’RE OFF TO DISCOVER THE SEASIDE IN THE MOUNTAINS!

Love Gemma

LLac du Bourget’s Canal de Savières.

Aix-les-Bains tourist ofﬁce A T Tel: +33 (4) 79 88 68 00 w www.aixlesbains.com

Dear Grandma, were going to spend down to the French Alps that we Mum and Dad told us on the way lievably long. You unbe is get ral lake. Lac du Bour a few days on France’s largest natu really great is t’s Wha th. leng n you look down its 0 can’t see to the other end of it whe er - you’d think reaching an average of 24 in summ that its waters are very warm, you were on the Med! ing a real sand here. Jeremy and I started by mak We had an action-packed first day went to the Dad le re they even have lifeguards, whi out every castle on Le Bourget’s beach, whe try can You g. dsurfing and wakeboardin sailing centre. He signed up for win It’s amazing. kind of water-sport on the lake. beautiful Savières aquarium, we hired a boat on the get Bour After going to the Lac du was in the ers. It was great. Another highlight Canal, where we tried to spot beav ked along wal We m at the port of Aix-les-Bains. evening when we had an ice-crea year beside the sea! admiring the yachts, just like last be, Mum and Dad ning waterside abbey of Hautecom Tomorrow, after visiting the stun and Mountains’ cycle ke ‘La tain bikes to follow the moun hire ll we’ that us ised prom have re planning to watch past the port of Le Bourget, we’ track we’ve spotted. When we go founded over 100 They say their club’s very old, the rowers head out onto the lake. years ago.

Lido Beach at Aix-les-Bains on Lac du Bourget.

GREETINGS FROM LAC DU BOURGE

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

GREETINGS FROM LAC D’AIGUEBELETTE

Motor boats are banned on the lake, but there’s an internationally renowned rowing club. Best of all, there are seven fine beaches to choose fro m, and loads of outdoor sports to sample. Have you heard of hiking by canoe, for example? This afternoon we’re taking the children on a tree-top assault course. As to mys elf, I’m really tempted to try paragliding. The plan is to stop here several days to make the most of the hiking trails and to enjoy the peaceful natural environment, which includes major reed-beds and a couple of unspoilt islands. There are fabulous legends about Aiguebelette too. All told, it’s been a great discovery. See you soon, Anthony

Dear Karen and James, This summer, we’ve headed off in the camper-van for the great lakes of Savoie Mont Blan c. I’d heard it said that you could find ‘the seaside in the mou ntains’ in the French Alps - I wanted to check it out! So I’m sending you this card from Lac d’Aiguebelette, where they boast that the waters are among the warmest and gen tlest in France. They call the lake ‘the emerald pearl’, and the name isn’t badly chosen. The waters are incredibly clear, and almost turquoise in colour. Aiguebelette sits at the foot of the dramatic L’Epine mountain beside the Chartreuse, which turns out to be a regional natural park as well as a famous liqueur from these parts!

Fr From top to bottom: Canoeing on Lac d’Aiguebelette. A tree-top assault course. Lac d’Aiguebelette. La

Aiguebelette tourist ofﬁce A Tel: T +33 (4) 79 36 00 02 - www.lac-aiguebelette.com

SAVOUR THE SEASIDE ATMOSPHERE ON N SAV SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES

GREETINGS FROM LAC D’ANNECY

Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard overlooking Lac d’Annecy.

Sailing boat on Lac d’Annecy. © Savoie Mont Blanc / Zvardon

Hi Henry! one postcard, so I’m telling her Mum has said I have to send at least dI ly great here. Gemma and what to write to you! The lakes are real it would be like being by thee didn’t believe it when Mum and Dad said do here. sea, but there are even more things to ns. ans. aran for hours, and the catamar At Annecy, I’ve watched the paragliding ow know You k. special cycle trac I can’t wait to go on our trip along the how much I love cycling. e.. ike. help us explore Annecy by bike Dad said that we can hire a guide to ’ss er’s her’ n and castles! The weatther We’re going to stop and visit an old priso to to n on o g goin e s. Tomorrow we’r lovely and we’re eating lots of ice-cream ool! d boat called L’Aquarel. CCool Lac Léman for a cruise on a solar-powere Bye for now, Jeremy

Annecy, An Ann ecy,, with ecy w its castle set abov ab above bo ovee iits tss ccanals. aanna nals.

Annecy tourist ofﬁce Tel: +33 (4) 50 45 00 33 www.lac-annecy.com View across Lac d’Annecy from the Roc des Bœufs.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

GREETINGS FROM LAC LÉMAN

From top to bottom. Port and Château de Rives (or Montjoux) at Thonon-les-Bains, opposite Switzerland and the Jura Range. Yvoire’s port. A sandy beach on Lac Léman.

Dear Natalie, I’m writing to you from Lake Gen eva, or Lac Léman as they call it in France, last stop on our tour of Savoie Mont Blanc’s great lakes. We’ve had a fabulous, action-packed time. The seaside atmosphere around these lakes is truly exceptional. Lac Léman is so vast that you can hardly see from one end to the other; it really is like being beside the sea. The water’s deliciously warm and we’ve found lovely beaches with lifeguards, so the child ren can bathe safely. The one at Excenevex is broad and sandy, with spectacular views. At Thonon-les-Bains, nex t to famous Evian, I sunbathed while Anthony tried his hand at sailing and windsurfing. There are just so man y activities on offer. Everywhere we went we admired the gorgeous mountains surrounding the lakes. It really is so uplifting. All of us have been enchanted, and the weather’s been as good as on the coast. It’s our last day now, so we’re going to market to buy some regional specialit ies before lunching on lake fish at one of the waterside terraces . We’re also going to the Jardin des 5 Sens, a lovely garden set beside the castle in the gorgeous village of Yvoire. We’ll say our fond goodbyes by taking a walk on the Balcon du Lém an route, making the most of the views over this wonderf ul inland sea. Lots of love, Andrea

Thonon-les-Bains tourist ofﬁce Tel: +33 (4) 50 71 55 55 - www.thononlesbains.com

DISCOVERING SAVOIE MONT BLANC D

Lac de Chésery facing the Mont Blanc Range.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

MAJESTIC MONT BLANC Totemic Mont Blanc is a staggering mountain, the highest in Western Europe, and still growing, albeit very slowly at present it measures 4,810 metres. You can view its massive, mesmerizing peak from countless points around the whole of our region. It dominates the Massif du Mont Blanc range, surrounded by the viciously sharp but highly photogenic peaks of the Aiguilles, or Needles. Most visitors head for the famed town of Chamonix to get up closer to Mont Blanc. Deep down in the Arve Valley, this bubbly town is always fizzing with mountaineering excitement, and caters extremely well to the masses. Host of the first-ever Winter Olympics, back in 1924, there are now plenty of sporting activities to try out around town in summer, including golf on a magnificent course. Ordinary mortals can use the various cable-car rides from Chamonix, or its neighbours Argentière and StGervais-les-Bains, to reach stunning viewing platforms with the minimum of exertion. Or there are a couple of very surprising trains that strain high up the mountainsides for you. The one departing from Chamonix takes you up to the Mer de Glace, the most famous glacier in France, with an ice grotto you can visit. The Tramway du MontBlanc from St-Gervais-les-Bains has numerous tempting stops on the way to Le Nid d’Aigle, the Eagle’s Eyrie. For a deeply relaxing time back down in St-Gervais, book in at the thermal spa. Hiking is hugely popular around Chamonix and the Arve Valley, the high-perched mountain lakes among favourite destinations; and note that thanks to the good selection of high-altitude inns, you won’t go hungry if you haven’t packed a picnic. The truly adventurous can try climbing Mont Blanc’s summit by organizing a trip through Chamonix’s famed Compagnie des Guides.

Hikers near Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

TO THE VANOISE NATIONAL PARK VIA ARAVIS AND BEAUFORTAIN

The Arc Valley, or Maurienne, offers a quieter yet equally dramatic route to explore. You can enjoy tracking down the fascinating traces of different mountain civilizations, going back from frontier forts, via Baroque and medieval churches, to Neolithic remnants. Very ﬁne walks are to be had amidst the natural grandeur in every direction, but the resorts are on an intimate scale.

The Vanoise is bordered to north and south by two vast valleys. The Upper Isère, or Tarentaise, is world-famous for its string of leading ski resorts, like Val d’Isère, Tignes or Les Arcs, or Courchevel and Méribel. Don’t be fooled into thinking these places go quiet in summer. Quite the contrary, they turn their attention to other lively sporting activities (see our Activities pages). The cultural trails are well worth exploring too. The churches conceal many surprises, including medieval murals or Baroque extravaganzas. Old crafts are maintained or remembered in many a village, while the towns of Moûtiers and Bourg-St-Maurice are bustling centres.

Aravis Range.

Reaching the Vanoise, a large swathe of this hugely impressive and extensive range was declared France’s ﬁrst National Park back in the mid-1960s. With its highly dramatic peaks and glaciers, this well-preserved area is home to the rare European ibex, among other exceptional wildlife, which includes plenty of chamois and marmots. Pralognan-la-Vanoise is one charming, central base from which to explore the Vanoise’s natural wonders.

To get down from Mont Blanc to our second greatest range, the Vanoise, you need to pass through two beautiful areas, the Aravis-Val d’Arly and the Beaufortain. Megève makes an enticing ﬁrst stop; it’s a very smart resort renowned for its shopping and its spa hotels. Then, passing under the gap-toothed Aravis range, enjoy the traditional valley villages where crafts thrive. As to the Beaufortain, it’s famed for its fabulous cheeses. Here, the steep meadows fringed by forests, and dotted with picturesque herds and hamlets, make for an idyllic mountain picture.

Hikers on the shore of a lake and facing the landscape.

A gorgeous string of mid-sized mountain ranges runs down the western side of Savoie Mont Blanc from Lac Léman to Lac d’Aiguebelette. They go from the Chablais in the north to the Chartreuse in the south, with the Bornes and Bauges in between. They may not have the eternally snow-capped peaks heights and formidable glaciers of the higher ranges, but you’ll ﬁnd them ruggedly romantic and dramatic all the same. The picturesque traditional villages and old-style chalets make touring in these parts a particular pleasure. Torrents rush down through the Chablais to Lac Léman, with terrifying gorges to admire, or even to race down, but there are peaceful abbeys to

In the southwestern corner of our region, both the Bauges and Chartreuse have been designated regional natural parks, helping to preserve their natural and man-made heritage, and their exceptional peace. In Les Bauges, for example, you might quietly seek out the craftsmen of Le Noyer, or the organic Savoyard bread shop at Ecole. Or for something more substantial, sign up for a trek of several days in the company of donkeys. Highlights in the Chartreuse include the remarkably toothy Col du Granier mountain, where bears once hibernated, and the spectacular Cirque de St-Même. Out on Savoie Mont Blanc’s western fringes, the slopes descending to the Rhône are extremely beautiful, and productive, clad as they are with vines. Read more about them on our page devoted to wine.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

The Rouget waterfall in the Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval nature reserve. Bottom. The village of La Compote – Massif des Bauges with view on the Dent de Pleuven and the Trélod.

ROMANTIC MID-SIZED RANGES © Savoie Mont Blanc / Lansard

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

The Croix de l’Alpes in the Chartreuse Range.

seek out too, and many quaint villages. The Giffre Valley is particularly joyous and fertile, leading to one of the greatest dead-ends in France, the Cirque du Fer à Cheval, where waterfalls tumble down from vast heights. Across in the Bornes, settlements and roads are few and far between; these parts are a paradise for hikers, with the extensive network of trails.

Cycling leisure trail on the shore of Lac d’Annecy.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

STUNNING ARRAY OF SUMMER ACTIVITIES THE ARRAY OF SUMMER ACTIVITIES ON OFFER IN SAVOIE MONT BLANC IS EXCEPTIONAL. WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR EXHILARATION OR QUIETER CONTEMPLATION, HERE ARE SOME IDEAS.

Among the vast selection of summer activities you can enjoy in Savoie Mont Blanc, hiking has the double advantage of being free, and of leaving you free to choose your destination for the day. There are hiking paths requiring different levels of ﬁtness and expertise, but many of our marked trails aren’t too taxing. Remember, though, always to consult the local weather forecast carefully. A good way of discovering more about our region is to go on a guided walk. One way to delight the children is to follow an animalfocused tour. Or what about considering a tasty botanical twist to your walking day? Read more about this on our culinary page below. Cycling need not mean tackling 45º slopes. There are many tracks that don’t take you up vertiginous gradients, but still allow you to take in the fabulous scenery, for example going around the lakes, or sticking to the bottom of the valleys, maybe following a wine trail.

The simpler pleasures

Order free Savoie Mont Blanc’s Walks and Hikes itineraries on our website: www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.uk

Crazy golf in the Aravis Range.

Swimming is a popular family activity that you can sometimes enjoy for free around our lakes. Some beaches charge a fee, but then you get added facilities in those places. Canoeing, rowing, or taking a pedal-boat provide delightful ways of getting out onto the great lakes. For those looking for activities where you can relax completely, then you can swan around on any number of lake cruises, or be pampered with a well-being break at one of Savoie Mont Blanc’s nine thermal spas, or in one of the many luxury hotel spas.

ACTIVITIES

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

Rafting on the Isère river and golf.

Mountain biking.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

If you wish to discover high glaciers and peaks, you must reserve the services of one of our highly experienced experts. For the ski-mad, summer skiing is a rare treat you can enjoy in one or two of Savoie Mont Blanc’s fabled ski resorts, notably Tignes and Chamonix.

Mountain-biking (VTT in French) is a major summer pursuit, what with the thrill of so many vast slopes to whiz down. A fair number ski-lifts operate through the summer and allow you to carry your bike up the mountainsides. There are over 3,000km of marked mountain-biking tracks to tackle.

If you want to reach for the skies, then there are professionals to take you paragliding, for example from Lac d’Aiguebelette, Lac d’Annecy, or around Chamonix. Or for something slightly more serene, book a hot-air balloon trip or a helicopter ride over the tops of our highest mountains for an unforgettable overview of Savoie Mont Blanc.

Taking our precipitous terrain at a more measured pace, rock-climbers have a field day in our region. As well as over 200 official sites d’escalade to test you, there are some 50 via ferrata fixed-ladder tracks. Consider hiring a guide to attempt such sports.

Bringing you back down to earth, one amusing novelty is the ground-breaking new ice rink at Morillon in the Giffre Valley, made from recyclable polyethylene! It can be used yearround, and, reﬂecting a growing consciousness in our mountains, it’s extremely eco-friendly.

Kitesurf on Lac du Bourget.

Diving in Lac d’Aiguebelette.

Via ferrata, Roc de Cornillon, near the village of Le Bourget du Lac.

If you’re in search of an adrenaline rush, you’ll be well satisﬁed in Savoie Mont Blanc. On the watery theme, water-skiing and wakeboarding are popular on the largest lakes. Or follow one of our rivers’ natural assault courses by signing up for canyoning, hydrospeed, or white-waterrafting.

EXHILARATING SPORTS

CULTURAL HERITAGE CU

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

Arêches-Beaufort in Beaufortain.

ACCOMMODATION

Chalets in the Aravis Range.

The chalet of course provides one of the strongest images of the Alps, and we have plenty of such classic wood-clad homes, both modern and old-fashioned, in which you can stay. Their balconies with a view are a joy in the warmer season. All told, Savoie Mont Blanc offers a very wide range of accommodation, and it’s well used to welcoming hordes of eager visitors not just in the snowy season. Our luxury hotels go from palatial lake-side extravaganzas to intimate boutique numbers, perhaps with a pampering spa tucked in. There are numerous good-value

Family breakfast, Camping HLL (Habitation Légère de Loisirs).

Among novel developments in Savoie Mont Blanc are our écogîtes, environmentally friendly B&Bs – a handful of places have already met the criteria to be awarded the label. For those particularly interested in wildlife, Gîtes Panda are B&Bs certiﬁed by the World Wildlife Fund that offer special features for appreciating the local fauna. Or consider sleeping up in the treetops at Ecotagnes in the Aravis.

Room at the Chalet-hôtel Les Saytels, Le Grand Bornand.

Swimming pool, Château-hôtel des Comtes de Challes.

options too. The range of self-catering possibilities, tourism residences, B&Bs and campsites is extremely extensive. If you’re looking for cheap group accommodation possibilities, consider our youth hostels and gîtes d’étape. If you’re a keen hiker, up in the heights away from any roads, you’ll ﬁnd a good number of wellmaintained mountain refuges too.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

GLORIOUS TOWNS

Chambéry, historic capital of Savoie, has plenty of pizzazz, what with its lively streets and squares, its numerous culinary specialities, and some funky contemporary buildings as well as a wildly decorated cathedral, many museums, and a major castle. The last turns into a stage for free concerts on certain summer evenings.

Savoie Mont Blanc’s main towns are enchanting, encircled by mountains, packed with exciting architecture, culture… and shops. Plus they’re very festive places. To the French, Annecy is the epitome of romance, with its exquisite, colourful houses and white-stone churches reﬂected in its canals. Just beyond its arcaded streets and below its castle-turned-museum stands the cleanest town-side lake in Europe, the mountains beautifully reﬂected in its crystalclear waters.

Annecy’s Canal du Thiou and old prison quarter.

Village of Conﬂans overlooking Albertville.

Chamonix town centre with view on the Mont Blanc (below).

Up beside Lac Léman, Thonon-les-Bains has now also won this recognition. It too has glamorous marinas, down the cliff from the delightful historic centre. Just east, Evian-lesBains offers a multitude of attractions, from its contemporary auditorium, a free cable-car ride up from the centre, to its marinas, waterside promenade and ecological gardens.

Aix-les-Bains and the Mont Revard.

Aix-les-Bains has two distinct sides. Up the slope from Lac du Bourget lies the genteel old spa town beloved of the Romans and the Victorians. Down by the lake stand the youthful lake-side developments and marinas, reﬂecting a sporty new Aix. Such is the standard of watersports on offer here that Aix became the ﬁrst French port away from the sea to be awarded the prestigious Station Nautique quality mark.

Rives port in Thonon-les-Bain.

In the heart of Savoie, Albertville was created for Charles-Albert de Savoie in the 19th-century. Its grand buildings were substantially added to in 1992 when it hosted the Winter Olympics. The adjoining historic hill village of Conﬂans has been beautifully restored.

Château de Mécoras and Chautagne vineyards at the foot of Mont Clergeon.

CULINARY DELIGHTS C

16 6

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

VERTIGINOUS VINEYARDS

Dry-stone vineyard hut restored in 2000 by the Compagnons du Tour de France.

Now you might imagine our slopes a little too steep and our climate a little too extreme to produce ﬁne wines, but you’d be wrong. In fact, Savoie Mont Blanc boasts some excellent vineyards that have long held coveted appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) status. There are three main growing areas: ﬁrst, the middle section of the Isère Valley known as La Combe de Savoie; second, the Upper Rhône between Lac Léman and Lac du Bourget; and third, the south side of Lac Léman. Most of the production is of dry white wines, though some reds are also made. All our vineyards are exceptionally beautiful, what with their mountain backdrops. La Combe de Savoie has the greatest concentration of vines, and appellations with wild-sounding names, like Abymes (Chasms) or Apremont (Bitter Mountain)! In fact, these vineyards grow

on enchantingly open slopes east of Chambéry which you might even consider cycling round, going from winery to winery. The wines are very pleasing on the palette.

Take home some of our region’s wines and you may surprise your wine connoisseur friends back home.

Our Rhône-side vineyards are rather steeper. Those of Marestel cling to gorgeous slopes west of Lac du Bourget. Just north of them, the Chautagne vines overlook one of the largest poplar forests in Europe. Next comes dramatic Seyssel, the vineyards here lining high terraces above both river banks. Branch away from the Rhône for Frangy, which makes a surprising sweet Roussette wine. All these wines have wonderfully distinctive characters. Up by Lac Léman, the vineyards recline in more laid-back positions, for example around the lake-side Château de Ripaille. They traditionally accompany the lake ﬁsh specialities.

Excessive consumption of alcohol is dangerous for your health. Always drink in moderation.

Towers and vineyards of Chignin.

MAG SAVOIESAVOIE-MONT MONT BLANC’S BLANC SUMMER N°5 FEAST #2

CLASSIC CHEESES Delicious mountain cheeses spring to mind first when considering Savoie Mont Blanc’s culinary specialities. You may think instantly of the fun of a fondue or a raclette. Or perhaps your preference is for a serious slab of Beaufort, renowned as the ‘prince of gruyères’, and one of five fromages with AOC status in our region. You can visit a fair number of the cooperatives that produce Beaufort, or then again Reblochon, another classic you’ll find widely available. It’s mellow and densely creamy, the word ‘fermier’ indicating when it’s made on farms using traditional methods.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

The fondue savoyarde. Ageing Beaufort (below).

Most of the region’s cheeses are made from cows’ milk; the herds, with their clarine bells ringing out, provide a delightful backing track to a visit to many of our rural areas. Some sheep’s and goat’s cheeses are produced too, the Chevrotin awarded AOC status in the latter category. Look out too for a much-praised rare blue cheese, Bleu de Termignon. Just some of our cheeses!

Other, less well-known cheeses to look out for that have also won their own AOC label include Abondance from the Chablais and Tome des Bauges – the latter distinguishing itself from the more widespread Tomme de Savoie by being spelt with one ‘m’ only. Another popular hard cheese that’s widely available is Savoie Emmental.

Tartiﬂette is a very popula r, delicious local recipe usin g Reblochon to make a goo ey topping to the layers of potatoes and onion undern eath, ﬂavoured with Savoie white wine. Here’s a simple way for you to enjoy it for yourselves:

TARTIFLETTE SAVOYARD E RECIPE FOR 5 TO 6 PEOP LE Ingredients - 1 or 2 Reblochon fermier cheeses - 1.2 kilos of potatoes, slic ed - 500 g chopped onion - 250 g diced smoky bacon - A bottle of Savoie dry white wine Cooking 1. Parboil the potatoes and leave to the side to cool. 2. Fry the onions until ligh tly browned. 3. Add the diced bacon to the onions and leave to fry gently for 15 mins. 4. Then, in a greased oven dish, make a layer of potato es, then one of the onions and bacon. Repeat the layerin ga second time. 5. Pour in a glass (c.40cl) of the white wine, and sea son the mixture with salt and pepper. 6. Cut the Reblochon che eses in half and lay the pie ces over the top of the dish. 7. Cook in a pre-heated oven at 220ºC for around 25 mins. 8. Serve with a salad and the rest of the bottle of Sav oie dry white wine!

Local market in Annecy.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

One delightful new way of getting a good taste of Savoie Mont Blanc’s natural ingredients is to sign up for one of the specialist walks now

Lake ﬁsh.

It’s not simply about sophisticated cuisine in Savoie Mont Blanc. For example, there’s immense pleasure to be had in a rewarding platter of local cheese and charcuterie in a country inn. Some of their locations can be rather surprising, perched on the edge of a mountainside, or hidden away in a former frontier fort, or tucked into a farm beside the animals. Village auberges are often a delight, serving tasty traditional rustic dishes.

available in summer in various spots around the region, where expert guides take you out into the meadows and point out the edible flora at your feet. Some even propose a memorable tea using the ingredients you’ve picked.

Savoie Mont Blanc is proud of counting an exceptional number of Michelin-starred restaurants, 22 in total at time of going to print! The high quality of the natural ingredients so close to hand has helped make this a region of culinary excellence. There’s a concentration of fine addresses around Lac d’Annecy and Lac du Bourget, as well as in the Vanoise’s Trois Vallées and around the Arve Valley leading to Chamonix. You can eat like a prince in such places, perhaps sampling a dish masterfully flavoured with mountain herbs freshly picked by your chef, or trying a highly prized lake fish, such as féra.

CULINARY HEIGHTS

Gratin de Crozet.

A fun family dish: raclette.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S

MAG SAVOIESAVOIE-MONT MONT BLANC’S BLANC SUMMER N°5 FEAST #2

PRACTICAL PAGE Tourist Information on Savoie Mont Blanc You can ﬁnd a lot of details on our website, with English version, on www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.uk Or contact us by phone on +33 820 00 73 74 (the price of ordinary call to France from Britain) or by email. Please note that our regional website gives contact details on the very useful network of tourist ofﬁces around Savoie Mont Blanc.

GREENER TRANSPORT TO SAVOIE MONT BLANC

ACCOMMODATION

BY RAIL Ä A green and rapid alternative to flying from Britain to Savoie Mont Blanc is the train via Eurostar and TGV networks. Example of a journey from London to Chambéry - London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord (with Eurostar) 2h15 (on average) - Change from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon station (quick connections with the tube) - Gare de Lyon to Chambéry by TGV: 2h50 • Consult Rail Europe: www.raileurope.co.uk Once you are in Savoie Mont Blanc, major towns and villages are linked with the train and coach services. BY ROAD ÄTake your time, drive slowly and be environmentally friendly! Driving to Savoie Mont Blanc by car is a good way of rediscovering France including stops at all manner of towns and villages. In Savoie Mont Blanc, use public transport, free shuttle buses connexion in villages, electric bicycles and your two feet to discover the fantastic landscapes of the French Alps in summer! BY PLANE ÄIn summer, 3 airports offer links between the UK and Savoie Mont Blanc. They all provide efficient shuttle services to the towns and villages. • Lyon-Saint-Exupéry Airport Tel. +33 426 007 007 • Geneva International Airport For useful information, contact Accueil France: 00 41 22 798 20 00 Accueil France is a desk located in the French sector. You can contact them for any queries regarding hotels, bus or taxi transfers... • Grenoble Isère Airport Tel.: +33 (0)4 76 65 48 48 Many flights all year round to come to Savoie Mont Blanc.

You’ll ﬁnd plenty of information on our website regarding holiday accommodation of all sorts. You can also order our special annual brochure, Séjours Réservation (in French only at the moment on +33 479 85 01 09) If you wish to hire a holiday home, or gîte, there are two French national associations that offer such accommodation, Gîtes de France (www.gites-de-france.com and www. gites-de-france-haute-savoie.com) and Clévacances (www.clevacances.com). Alternatively, seek out specialist companies. Tourist ofﬁces can also help you in your request (see list on our website).

Savoie Mont Blanc accommodation through the seasons:

T « Ecogîte » La Ferme de Noémie, The nnear Albertville. Why don’t you try one of the latest environmentally friendly options in Savoie Mont Blanc? The new Gîtes de France ‘Ecogîtes’ label has now been awarded to 5 chambres d’hôtes (B&Bs) that meet stringent environmental standards. Savoie Mont Blanc now has 8 Gîtes Panda, denoting accommodation to which the WWF (World Wildlife Fund) has awarded its label. These are largely located in regional or natural parks. Other Gîtes are working very hard to provide buildings that are now more environmentally friendly.

www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.uk Tel: +33 820 00 73 74 (The price of an ordinary call to France from Britain)