Massive Magazine Issue 16 2021 by Massive Magazine

AUGUST 02/2021

Fiona Lu @fio_nlu

Megan Rossiter

Editorial

IT’S THE FASHION ISSUE, BABY! LET’S TALK ABOUT THREADS, SHALL WE?

Currently, everyone at uni seems to have their unique sense of style. Sure, there’s definitely Tik Tok influences lurking around, from Y2K to Cottagecore, but genuinely, every person seems to be doing their own thang. And I love that! I look around campus and it warms my little heart. I’m only 23 (and a baby one at that) but my God, through my time in the education system, I have seen things. Unspeakable things. Things I can only express in therapy or magazine editorials. In around 2017, everyone wore long-sleeved striped shirts with black puffer jackets. We looked like sad, Parisian mimes. Or escaped white-collar convicts. I don’t know why puffer jackets were such a thing. Truly, I don’t. Maybe it was particularly cold that year? Maybe there was a boom in the duck feather industry? Either way, I am both sexually and emotionally confused. Same as usual, really. 2018 was the year of Huffer. God help us all. White denim miniskirts were the name of the game, and the game was terrible. A-line cut, a little bit distressed if you were particularly edgy (I wasn’t). Skin showing, hair flowing, clinical depression OUT. A black belt to tie it all together, paired with some white kicks. 2019 followed the golden rule of tight/baggy. One piece of item could be baggy, if the other bit was tight. Yes, I know I’m explaining this terribly. Sorry. Basically, you’d have mom jeans paired with a tit-piercing crop top. Or an oversized denim jacket layered over a bodycon moment. This isn’t me being weird right? This actually happened, and I’m not hallucinating a set of bizarre fashion rules for myself? Overall, this whole trend wasn’t the worst, it even kind of made sense at times. But it was like 1984, honestly, the conformity, urgh! Orwellian oversized denim, anyone? But now, things are different. Maybe it’s to do with the pandemic, maybe it’s just the cyclical nature of consumerism spinning around so fast that keeping up seems pointless. Whatever it is, I’m grateful for this small mercy. Fashion seems freer, trends seem less earth-shattering. We can once again start dressing like child Disney stars, which is all I’ve ever wanted to be. So go out there, explore your wardrobe and explore thy self. In the famous words of Tim Gunn, make it work designers, make it work. X Caroline

Table of Contents 06 10 13 14 18 22 23 24 26 28 31 32 33 34 35 37 38

News NZ Politicians as Shoes Why the Execs Want to Merge Angelina Koh Unspoken Fashion Rules Winter Fashion Statement What Your Socks say About You My Yellow Shirt The History of Corsets Pumped Up Kicks Culinarylingus Sexcapades We’re Going on a Man Hunt Snaps Exec Column Horoscopes 14 Puzzles

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EDITOR Caroline Moratti

PHOTOGRAPHER Callum Parsons

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SUB EDITOR Jamie Mactaggart

ILLUSTRATOR Tallulah Farrar

www.issu.com/massivemagazine

NEWS EDITOR James Pocock

COVER Angelina Koh (photo by Sage Rossie)

Got a letter to the Editor? Email editor@massivemagazine.org.nz to rant, flirt, complain, whatever x

STAFF WRITERS Cameron Taylor, Elena McIntyreReet, Ari Prakash, Mason Tangatatai, Courtney Hammond CONTRIBUTERS Elizabeth Chan, Harry Bartle DESIGNER Micah Davis-Rae

CENTREFOLD Fiona Lu CONTACT/SOCIAL

editor@massivemagazine.org.nz Facebook/massive.magazine Instagram/massivemagazine www.massivemagazine.org.nz

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The views, beliefs and opinions reflected in the pages of Massive do not necessarily represent those of Massey University, its staff, ASA, MUSA, MAWSA, M@D or the Massive Editor. MAWSA is an independent organisation that publishes Massive. Send any queries or complaints directly to Massive at editor@ m a s s i v e m a g a z i n e. o r g. n z. Massive is subject to the New Zealand Press Council. If a complainant is not satisfied with the response, the complaint may be referred to the Press Council: info@presscouncil.org.nz or online via presscouncil.org.nz.

MASSIVE NEWS

Māori associations gain full voting rights in Massey’s Student Association Federation “For Te Tiriti obligations to be met, it requires a cogovernance structure which ensure Māori voices are properly represented where inclusion begins at the start of the conversation instead of being consulted once a decision is made.” JAMES POCOCK

NATIONAL NEWS

Massey University’s Student Association Federation’s (MUSAF) new constitution will give each Māori association full voting rights with the Federation, equal to each general

association. The constitution was first drafted in 2018 but was not implemented by MUSAF until recently this year. In a collective statement to Massive, Manawatahi (Manawatū campus), Te Waka o ngā Ākonga Māori (Ōkahukura campus) and Kōkiri Ngātahi (Pukeahu campus) say the situation in 2018 led to a press statement released by MUSAF on behalf of all student associations of Te Kunenga ki Purehuroa without consultation of any of their three associations, which resulted in a breakdown of the relationship between the general and Māori associations. “However, this year a genuine effort has been made to strengthen the relationship between associations, longevity and stability of this relationship could be reflected and enhanced in the potential changes of MUSAF,” they said. With the potential of a governance merge on the horizon NEWS

for the general associations, the Māori associations wish to remain autonomous themselves. “We believe it is essential to remain autonomous from our general counterparts to preserve both our voice and history of our associations and what was created and maintained by tauira before us, despite the inequalities.” They say a restructured partnership model would still have potential for MUSAF to meet their Tiriti obligations while the Māori associations can maintain their autonomy. If MUSAF does not meet their Tiriti obligations after their restructure, withdrawal from MUSAF is possible for the Māori associations. “For Te Tiriti obligations to be met, it requires a co-governance structure which ensure Māori voices are properly represented where inclusion begins at the start of the conversation instead of being consulted once a decision is made.”

According to MUSA President Fatima Imran, general consultation for the governance merge between the general student associations in MUSAF will begin this week.

No by-election after MUSA Executive portfolio reshuffle What is it with student execs not wanting to hold simple by-elections?

They say they are currently in the process of implementing their individual associations’ tikanga in MUSAF. “The kawa of MUSAF will require consultation with our tauira, but to ensure the tikanga and kawa are continuously upheld would require a true co-governance partnership.” One of the benefits which has been touted with a merged governance system through MUSAF has been more equitable funding for all the general associations. Manawatahi, Te Waka o ngā Ākonga Māori and Kōkiri Ngātahi say they have all faced their own challenges due to lack of funding. “The services we provide our tauira are essential to maintain the Māori sense of community throughout this westernised institution. Compared to the general associations, the funding our associations receive are inadequate for stability and growth to provide to our community of tauira.” With equitable funding, they say they could provide their associations with operational staff, provide Māori led and tailored services such as community advocacy, renumerate the executive teams properly and increase their associations presence and capabilities on the three campuses to address different concerns. With the largest population of Māori students at Massey in the distance cohort, the lack of a Māori student association for distance students is another concern the current Māori associations are hoping will soon be addressed with the progress which has been made in the conversations between them and the general associations. “Māori associations exist because of the inadequacy of general associations being able address Māori issues and properly reflect our voices at Massey. Given that the distance cohort have the largest Māori population, it is the Māori associations that foster and facilitate that Māori voice. Recognising these conversations between Massey @ Distance and our Māori associations have begun to address these matters.”

JAMES POCOCK

MANAWATŪ NEWS

A reshuffle of the MUSA Executive portfolios means there will be no by-election to fill vacant exec positions. This news comes despite the departure of Education Officer Alex Johnston, who received a vote of no confidence in June. Normally after departures, students can vote to fill the new position via a by-election process. According to MUSA President Fatima Imran, MUSA’s constitution states that the board must comprise of at least a president and four board members. The current board is made up of herself and five other board members, which is more than enough to meet the constitutional requirements. She says, “Rather than doing a by-election to fill the positions instead we have re-shuffled the current members to fill the vacant portfolios.” Student Tane says “this just... ain’t it. Alex was kicked out because people perceived that he wasn’t doing his job well, right? Like he was clearly stressed and didn’t have much time to fulfil his responsibilities.” Reshuffling positions to give existing executives more work, instead of simply reelecting a new candidate, seems “misguided” according to students, especially given the departure of many operational staff at MUSA. According to Fatima, the existing portfolios of the current executives will also experience some changes after a motion in the most recent MUSA AGM. MUSA Admin Officer Ella Mischefski-Gray says a point was raised that the executive job descriptions were out of date and not NEWS

representative of the current roles and requirements, which lead to a motion to modify the existing executive job descriptions to be passed. This process is currently being discussed between Fatima and Manawatahi Kaiwhina (Vice-President) Paris Tait. “The meeting was to get these modified so that MUSA can run an SGM before the election, so the incoming executive have modern job descriptions,” Ella said.

Muddled MUSA accounts fixed.... for now Not getting access to bank accounts? Yikes!

MUSA has had historical issues with its financials, including the president’s credit card having the name of a president from two presidencies prior in 2019. Michael Salmon, MUSA President at the time, says there have been small issues which have built up over time at MUSA which hadn’t been addressed by previous executives or staff. “That’s just one small example of these issues that get overlooked or not addressed, and then it eventually falls to someone else to solve the issue, well past the point of people who were actually involved in it,” Michael said.

MAWSA elects new Welfare & Equity Officer Madeline Brunel wins by a narrow margin CAROLINE MORATTI

JAMES POCOCK

WELLINGTON NEWS

MANAWATŪ NEWS

Financial systems which were incorrectly run at MUSA have been addressed by the current president. MUSA President Fatima Imran first mentioned dealing with problems with MUSA accounts at the last general meeting for MUSA. She told Massive these were related to authorisation, as the authorisers on the financials were staff which had left years ago and had not been updated since then. “Along with this, getting access to the bank account became an issue for myself and the Accounts Officer due to all the compliance work that needed to be done before hand,” Fatima said. Fatima says the responsibility for the failure, which extends back through several different MUSA administrations, lay with no one specifically. “There is no one specific to blame for this as this a collective step from both governance and operations that must be undertaken for the future of the organisation,” she says. She says there are no more pressing issues which need to be addressed with MUSA financial systems for now. “[All we have left to do is] create checks and balances to allow the finances for the association to be operating with the best practices (future planning [and] also future proofing).”

Madeline Brunel has won the recent by-election to become the MAWSA’s new Welfare and Equity Officer. In an incredibly tight race, Madeline won by a narrow margin of only two votes, with 44 votes in total. Runner up Doll Marquiller gained 42 votes, with Luca Gray on 39 and Ariel Lavender on 38. Madeline told Massive, “I am excited to get stuck right in. I feel very privileged to get elected.” She’s served on the Welfare and Equity Committee since last year, and is the founder of “Reel Ladies”, a Massey club that supports women in film and other creative media spaces. Tessa Guest, MAWSA President, says she’s stoked to have Madeline on board. “She’s been a dedicated member of MAWSA’s Welfare Committee since we started it last year, and she has a lot to bring to our team. I think she will serve our students incredibly well,” Tessa says. Tessa goes on to note that the by-election ran smoothly, saying “We had four awesome candidates who courageously put themselves forward. It’s clear from the close results that they all have backing from their communities. They’re all already doing really good stuff for students - I hope to see them running again at this year’s elections!” NEWS

Massey’s Pukeahu campus accessibility compromised for two days Elevator closures and construction blockage frustrate students JAMES POCOCK

WELLINGTON NEWS

decant them elsewhere while the works are ongoing, but we acknowledge that the work has been disruptive to staff and students,” they said. Students can email the Operations Service Desk with any queries or concerns at OperationsServiceDeskWellington@massey.ac.nz

Stop Asian Hate event to be held on Albany Love this energy. Can we get this on every campus? JAMES POCOCK

The front entrance to the Pyramid on Massey’s Pukeahu campus has been blocked off after renovations, increasing the difficulty of access for students. Adding to the recent accessibility woes, the elevator in the student lounge was out of service for two days. A Massey spokesperson says there were plans to get the elevator running again as soon as possible, but a shortage of technicians available at the lift management companies delayed the process. “Accessibility is a priority for campus facilities management, and feedback on how this can be approved is always appreciated.” For students with disabilities needing to access the Pyramid or the library, the combination of both obstructions frustrated many. “I couldn’t go through the main entrance due to the construction, but the other main entrances of the building, through entrance B or C, all involve stairs or a lift to access the lower ground floor where the library is. With the lift out of action at the same time, it just felt like a bit of a slap in the face,” one student told Massive. A Massey spokesperson says the front entrance route has been blocked to allow for refurbishment, weather-tightness and seismic strengthening to Block 5. “Contractors have been working with affected staff to

ALBANY NEWS

A ‘Stop Asian Hate’ event is planned to be hosted on social media and the Albany campus early August. Albany Student Association executives are organising the event, which will take place from 9 to 13 August, outside of the ASA student lounge, and on Facebook and Instagram. Participants will be encouraged to take pictures with event posters and share them on social media, with prizes involved too. ASA Education Officer Vivi Wang says she and VicePresident Michaela Futter and Cultural Officer Linda Yan organized the event to show university students determination to end Asian hate. “We’d like to get more students to realize that this is a big issue concerning our society and everyone needs to show their support,” Vivi says. She says they are currently in the process of finalizing the poster designs and double-checking details for the event. “We would like to get more people’s attention and make people aware of this issue by letting everyone post, spread and discuss this matter over the week.” Vivi goes on to say, “New Zealand is a multi-cultural nation. We live in this country, and we love this country. We want all people, families, and friends to be supported equally in their day-to-day lives. Therefore, we want to ‘Stop Asian Hate’ so that everyone is living a lovely and welcoming life here in New Zealand.” NEWS

Nz POlitICiaNs as ShOES Because Why the Fuck Not? Words by Caroline Moratti

Shoes are important, and not just for protecting us from the foot fetish community. From colourful Converses to Adidas Superstars, every time you slip on a pair on kicks, you’re making a statement. Who are you? What do you want to be? What will you become? Massive thought it would be fun to imagine various politicians as different kinds of shoes. Please don’t ask us why. We’re very sleep deprived. People know politicians. People know shoes. In our head, that’s enough.

Chlöe Swarbrick: Vans Chlöe is just cool, you know? And there’s nothing more effortlessly cool than some black and white checkered vans. Are you heading to the skatepark? To the mall? No one knows, and that’s the mystery of Chlöe. She’s too busy for anything fussy with laces (maybe she can’t do laces, and no shame here, Chlöe. I myself wore velcro until I inserted my first tampon) so the ease of slip-on is key. Vans are always in style, so no wasteful fast-fashion here.

Judith Collins: Lita shoes Crusher Collins needs shoes that allow her to, well, crush. Lita shoes, the iconic heel of 2010s Tumblr, are both perfect in height and boldness to allow Judith to dominate her political opponents. Think Karen, but make it sexy. You can take autumnal pictures with your overwhelming group of white friends, yet there’s a punk edge to these shoes that say “my husband is Samoan, so talofa”!

Jacinda Ardern: Ballet flats Jacinda has built a reputation of kindness in the political community. Ballet flats are the ideal shoe for curating an image of meek altruism. A little bow at the end adds a flourish of “pick me” and will very politely tell you that there’s nothing they can do about the housing crisis. Ballet flat girls are nice and all, but they’re not exactly the life of the party, let’s face it. They’ll moan about the club lines and get weird about you lighting up a ciggie on a night out. I too, dabbled in ballet flats, until I realised how ineffective they actually were. Cute in theory, but actually disastrous for anyone with pronating feet. Anyway, now I’m a Greens voter. CULTURE

David Seymour: Boat shoes Ah, Daddy David. David is a solid boat shoes (no socks) man if I ever saw one. There’s just something about that much ankle that’ll leave you with an odd taste in your mouth, but slightly damp below. A boat shoes guy is a twat, but even he knows it, so you can’t be that mad. Maybe they’re just really comfortable? Maybe there’s a secret about boat shoes that you just don’t know? They must be popular for a reason, right? Right??

Winston Peters: Dr. Martens Okay, hear me out. Docs will blister and bleed your feet like hell on earth. You’ll curse the day they ever lived. But, after a decade or so, they’ll surprisingly grow on you. They’re sturdy and tough, okay? Old people speak very fondly of their leather quality. You’ll overlook the problematic attitude, and the elitism because, well, they’re hot. Let’s face it. Docs are hot and Winston is hot. That head of hair! Yes, I hate myself.

James Shaw: Birkenstocks James, James, James. Birkenstocks are the shoe for you. Practical, but oh-so-cute. You can get out into nature, kick back on the beach, then take me to an overpriced brunch spot for $27 eggs on toast. Sometimes you get forgotten amongst the younger, cooler sandals, but there’s always a place for your orthopaedic support in my heart.

Rawiri Waititi: Cowboy boots Rawiri is a badass. From refusing to wear a tie in parliament, to protesting National’s “racist propaganda” with a haka, this MP deserves the highest honour of shoes: cowboy boots. Cowboy boots aren’t here to fuck around. Gorgeous high-quality leather, yet sturdy for riding horses or whatever it is cowboys do. As a bonus, Rawiri is a famous cowboy hat-wearer, worn as a homage to his koroua who went to war, known as Ngā Kaupoi (cowboys). So, these boots are already a perfect match. Just sayin’.

CULTURE

David Clark: Skechers There’s something comforting about David. Perhaps it’s the fact that he’ll never be the Leader of the Labour Party, or that keeps just slightly fucking things up. For that, he’s a Skecher shoe, despite him so obviously wanting to be All Birds. My mum likes Skechers. They’ll never be cool, but they’ll always be there, you know? In the back of the closet, just waiting. A slightly sporty shoe, perfect for mountain-biking over lockdown. (Also, David, if you’re reading this, yes, I’m still bitter over that time in high school where you rejected me for your youth parliament representative. I worked really hard on that PowerPoint, okay. It had slide transitions and everything).

Todd Muller: Crocs Remember when Todd was leader of National for 54 days? Even shorter than Kim Kardashian’s iconic 72-day marriage, hot. However, he picked his mental health over politics, and for that he gets the prime spot of Crocs. Crocs are cozy and snug, an orgasm for your tender feet. I know they get a lot of hate about being “uncool”, but fuck it, comfort is key. Croc users aren’t afraid to be themselves, whatever that may mean. They’re doing their own thing. Does that include being kind of a shitcunt about abortion and gay marriage? Yes, sadly, but Todd will always place himself first, feet included.

Grant Robertson: Uggs As Finance Minister, Grant is the good cunt of any flat. He’ll send you a screenshot of the power bill, and remind you to buy bin bags from the supermarket. Uggs are a vital part of that identity. Grant needs you to know that he’s not going anywhere, in fact, his shoes practically prohibit him from leaving the house. I’m not going to lie; I would like to be friends with Grant. I would like to give him a big, cosy hug. I’d like to think he’d hug me back. Because that’s what uggs do. They hug back.

Simon Bridges: Fat DCs Much like fat DCs, I can’t decide if I actually like Simon Bridges. I hated him in office, sure, but once he was ousted, I grew to affectionally admire him and his baby yak posts. Fat DCs are the cultural epitome of this hate-love relationship. They’re just… such a jarring shoe. Like weirdly puffy, right? Too big for its boots. But there’s something quirky and fun there, in the depths of it all. Sure, I wouldn’t want to wear them (too conservative for me, no thank you) but they’re a talking point at parties. Maybe, sometimes, that’s enough. CULTURE

You’ve Heard What Massive Thinks. Now Here’s What Your Presidents Want You to Know About the Merge. Words by M@D, ASA, MAWSA and MUSA Disclaimer: Massive was not paid for this piece. We wish we had been. As you might’ve heard, your student associations might be merging. This is dependent on you. MUSA, MAWSA, M@D and ASA have been having these conversations all year, and Manawatahi, Kōkiri Ngātahi, and Te Waka o Ngā Akonga Māori have also had key roles in discussions. We truly think merging is the best option for our associations, and in turn our students. Here’s why.

United student voice You might not think about it in your daily life, but Massey has three different campuses, and four student cohorts. One in Albany, one in Manawatū, one in Wellington, and a distance cohort that’s larger than the other three cohorts combined.

will make this change anytime soon. What we hope to create is a co-governed association that puts the needs of our Māori tauira at the forefront of every decision. Because that is our obligation in Aotearoa, and because if Māori are winning, we are all winning. We also hope to include other important groups that are often marginalised; Pasifika voice, Rainbow voice, Disability voice, and others. These communities are some of the strongest among us. They’re constantly wrestling just to have a seat at the table, and it’s about time their needs are prioritised.

Why is this conversation happening now? If you aren’t an avid reader of Massive, you might not know what sparked these conversations. Here’s some context:

It’s one big hive, which can be a really great thing. But having four separate student associations, who only have a mandate to represent their own cohorts, can be difficult and disempowering.

General student associations are funded through an SLA (Service Levy Agreement), which is a contract held with the university. The four general associations at Massey have always had separate contracts, but this year, we’ve been required by the university to combine these to form one SLA. This has been a conversation over multiple years, and this year is the final deadline to achieve this.

Particularly at times when we want to lobby the university. Whether we’re pushing for policy change, taking up the only student seat on a board, or taking a stance on a universitywide issue, our four siloed voices can create huge barriers to advocating for our students well.

We’re nearly at the position, and the ball will be in our court. Our associations have previously been funded in inequitable ways, with no clarity of who was receiving what. Now, we’ll have transparency, and our associations will make our own resourcing decisions.

That’s not to say that having local representatives isn’t essential. It is! The strength and presence of local identity, representation and autonomy is incredibly valuable. We recognise and celebrate the difference between our campuses and cohorts. But on a higher level, we want student voice to be impossible to ignore at our institution; that’s how it should be. One united voice is the only way we can make ourselves truly heard.

But if four separate governing bodies have responsibility to oversee one funding contract, things could be extremely difficult. Aligning our governance will allow for strong, coherent oversight direction of our SLA, which will in turn strengthen our services.

Honouring Te Tiriti Another core motivation for this change is that we have an opportunity to honour our obligations to Te Tiriti; something we don’t believe any institution or student association is truly doing or has done. That’s because in order to honor Te Tiriti, co-governance with Tangata Whenua and Tangata Tiriti is essential. It’s basic equity, and it’s what we should be seeing everywhere, yet it’s the first thing to be brushed aside. It’s evident that our Māori student associations aren’t treated or resourced equitably, and we don’t have faith that our university

Join the conversation We are consulting on proposed governance structures, and we will keep conversations going because your voices matter. As students, you own and govern us. We are only here because of you. To create equity we need your voice. Join in the conversation so we can have an outcome that truly works for tauira at Massey. Check our joint president’s column at the back of the mag to see our commitments to students in the creation and consultation of this potential new association.

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Words by Micah Davis-Rae Photography by Sage Rossi (@mouldyjiuce) and and Selina Van Doorn (@ seli_nahyea)

In conversation with

ANGELINAH O K

The Fashion Designer Bringing the Club Kid Ethos from NYC to Pōneke

From the underground clubs of New York City to the windy streets of Wellington, the spirit of the Club Kids, a “cult of crazy fashion and petulance” lives on in the work of Angelina Koh, one of Massey’s latest Fashion Design graduates. For those in the dark, Club Kids were a group of New York club personalities who started a movement of gender expression during the overtly homophobic era of the 80s and 90s. Journalist Michael Musto described the Club Kid aesthetic as a “blending of Japanese anime, fractured fairytale Mother Goose chic gone amok, apocalyptic chic, and a heavy influence of British outrageous performance art”. If that sounds like a bunch of mumbo jumbo to you, just take a look at Angelina’s work, and you’ll get the gist. FEATURES

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According to former Club Kid, Waltpaper, “The nightclub was like a laboratory, a place where you were encouraged and rewarded for experimentation.” This description resonated with Angelina, who titled her recent grad collection “The Laboratory” in homage to the Club Kids’ attitude and style. “I’m hugely influenced by the Club Kids,” Angelina tells Massive. “They created a safe place for people who broke barriers and subverted gender stereotypes.”

The Club Kids movement began to decline in 1994 when Rudy Giuliani became mayor of New York and began cracking down on the city’s nightlife. The group then collapsed when Club Kid Michael Alig murdered his roommate and fellow Club Kid, Andre “Angel” Melendez over a drug debt. Hectic stuff. They even made a movie about it starring Macaulay Culkin as Alig. In the wake of this horrific event, “a lot of the humanity, tenderness, creativity, and the cultural impact all of

“Experimentation is embodying your fantasy into a creation, exploring your identity, gender, sexuality and your true self-expression.” “The Laboratory,” which showed in November of last year, explored Angelina’s fascination with drag and aimed to deconstruct the idea of gender identity. Most of the materials for the collection were sourced from Angelina’s trip to South Korea. The project was a coming together of the wide-ranging aspects of her own identity; from her migration to New Zealand from South Korea, to her “deep love and respect [for] friends in the queer community”. We asked Angelina what experimentation means to her. “Experimentation is embodying your fantasy into a creation, exploring your identity, gender, sexuality and your true self-expression. [During the Club Kids era] experimentation was encouraged and rewarded as Walt said because being gay, gender fluid or anything other than being ‘straight’ was never acknowledged outside of the underground spaces they created.”

the nuance kind of got lost,” Waltpaper explained. Thankfully however, the significance of group’s influence could not be erased by the evil actions of one of its members. Today, we are able to appreciate its impact while simultaneously understanding and learning from its flaws. For Angelina, fashion is more than just a vibe or an aesthetic. It’s a chance to break down stigmas and shape culture in a way that contributes towards a more inclusive society. “At the moment, womenswear and menswear are two separate things,” she says. “It’s categorised, which I don’t like. With my fashion, I wanna be able to go between womenswear and menswear to make unisexwear.” Studying fashion at Massey was not a difficult decision for Angelina to make. During her childhood, fashion was something that she was surrounded by. “When I was eight, my mum and I

FEATURES

would stay up every night watching America’s Next Top Model and Project Runway. So that’s where it all started,” she said. By the time she reached intermediate school, sewing had become her main focus. Her fascination with drag, however, wouldn’t come until university. Like many people her age, Angelina’s first exposure to the drag world came from watching RuPaul’s Drag Race. “I binge watched every season,” she said. She became transfixed. She knew that she wanted to get involved in the scene, but at the time didn’t know anyone who was a part of it. So, she did what most people would do: made a post on Vic Deals. Unsurprisingly, it worked. “I think it was second year when I first styled a drag queen,” she said. From there, fashion became more than just a hobby, a degree, or even a career. It became a way to form meaningful relationships. Angelina was welcomed into the community with open arms. Despite the obvious appeal of creating clothes that have a commercial appeal, Angelina is cynical of the trends of commercial fashion. “I don’t want my stuff to be commercial, because that’s boring. What I would like to see is costumewear becoming more commercialised. I want people to wear my clothing on the street rather than just on sets or on stage.” Angelina is grateful to call Wellington home, however she is wary of its imperfections. The homophobia and transphobia that she has seen on Courtenay Place have discouraged her from going out to town too often. If I do go [to town], I either go to gigs or to Ivy,” she says. “There’s nothing down Courtenay that could ever compare to the nightclub scene that the Club Kids created or even the night clubs currently that are in NYC for queers.”

As of right now, Angelina is focusing on custom orders. Dancers and drag artists make up the bulk of her commissions. “They’ll e-mail me or DM me what they want, and I’ll make it,” she says. Angelina’s G-strings are a crowd favourite, and are quickly becoming a signature garment. In a country that still has plenty to learn about inclusivity and acceptance, not least in the context of the nightclubbing scene, thank fuck for designers like Angelina Koh. “I hope our safe place expands beyond the dance floor in the years coming,” she says. As for whether or not she’s experienced the thrills of the NYC clubbing scene first hand: “I haven’t yet but it is definitely on the list. Maybe if you happen to ask me again later on in the future my answer would be yes!” If you want to check out more of Angelina’s work, follow her on insta @a.n.g.e.l.i.n.a.k.o.h

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The Unspoken Fashion Rules Words by Caroline Moratti

All my life, I’ve carried a list of rules in my head. I’ve never told anyone about these rules, nor were they something enforced on me by my friends and family. I don’t know how they materialised, perhaps they were gleamed from scraps of old tabloids and movie clips. All I know is that I carry them with me, like the worst kind of luggage, from outfit to outfit and day to day. The rules are, as follows 1. Don’t show your upper arms. 2. Don’t wear clingy, tight outfits. 3. Don’t show your stomach. Not even a hint of an outline. Nothing. Yeah, I know, it’s more than a little fucked up. But the truth is, most of us have at least some secret fashion rules ruminating in the back of our minds and wardrobes. Things we feel like we can’t wear, or can only wear. Maybe you’re afraid of colour, patterns or certain shapes. Maybe you’re just afraid, full stop. Massive spoke to students about what’s their big bad wolf when it comes to fashion, and how we can dismantle our fears, bit by bit. Jessica says she avoided stripes growing up, and to this day is hesitant about the pattern. To her, the old wives’ tale about horizontal stripes making one look “wider” really “fucked her up”. She says, “I know it sounds ridiculous, but it installed such a fear in me. I felt so big already, and I was terrified of looking even bigger.” Jessica admits once even throwing out a birthday gift from her mother because of her fashion anxiety. “I was, like, 12 right? And my mum bought me this gorgeous navy and white striped jumper from Glassons. We didn’t tend to go shopping much because of my dressing room issues, so the fact she went out and got me something was really, really sweet. I just couldn’t wear it, because it was striped. I hid it in the back of my closet for about a year then threw it out shortly after that.” Years later, she still thinks of that jumper, and the “terrible” excuses FEATURES

she had to come up with as to why she wasn’t wearing it. “My mum never really bought me anything again, clotheswise, I think she thought I hated her style or something. I just couldn’t tell her the truth.” Now, years later, articles have come out about how horizontal stripes actually have a slimming effect. Jessica just bitterly laughs. “Who gives a fuck. I never want to be on the internet again at 2am googling ‘how to look skinny’. I want to wear what I want, regardless of what people write.” Naomi steered clear of heels as a teenager. She was the tallest girl in her class, and was terrified of “no one wanting to date me because of my height. I avoided shoes with even the tiniest bit of height, like chunky trainers, and always wore flats. Fuck, I hate flats.” Remember the $5 ballet flats sold at Rubi, which would always fall to pieces after a week? God, they were the worst. Especially the white ones (they really showed the dirt, okay). For Naomi, formal season was the worst time of the year because heels were considered the go-to shoe. “I would cave and wear heels, but then spend the whole time feeling self-conscious. I wish I danced with my friends more.” She recently watched the Netflix movie Tall Girl this year and found the whole thing comical. “Like yeah, it’s a bit of a weird and very specific movie, but that kinda was my vibe growing up. Did I have a gorgeous Swedish boy courting me? No, but I did try and date guys taller than me. Guilty as charged.” Nowadays, Naomi still tends to stick with sneakers over heels, but “for comfort, rather than insecurity. If I wanted to wear heels, I would. I feel like, with age, you stop caring as much. High school really was a breeding ground for every little bit of self-doubt. It’s nice to be older.” For Tim, his sore spot was shorts. “I felt like my legs were bigger than everyone else around me, and not in the cool, muscly kind of way. I just felt huge, and shorts, in my mind, only seemed to showcase that.” In summer, he wore cargo pants (“Yes, I know, cargo pants. I make fun of myself too”) or even floaty harem pants he picked up from a summer in Thailand. Looking back, he wonders if he made the right choices in his approach to his insecurity. “Maybe it would have just been better to, I don’t know, have my legs out rather than be the cargo pant kid. Or have to field questions about why I was wearing jeans in 23-degree weather. I guess I can only try and do better, going forwards, and try to let go of that stuff a bit.” Jenny admits that her one big fashion rule is: no jeans. “Urgh, don’t even get me started on jeans! Or really, any pants for that matter. I wear pyjama pants around the house, but that’s pretty much it.” Growing up, she struggled to find jeans that properly fit her. Maybe they were too tall, or too short. Too tight in the front, but too roomy in the

back. When she did find a pair that was “like…okay” then the trouble switched to styling them. “I wanted to wear a long top, to hide my belly, but then there were all those fashion rules about that drowning your waist, and making you look bigger. But if I wore a more cropped top, I just felt so exposed. Sure, you could do a half-tuck, or a Frenchtuck, but I still felt too on-display. I couldn’t win, no matter what,” she says. It’s an emotional process to this day, one that Jenny tries to avoid by wearing dresses and skirts, but she admits that the whole “road-block” in her mind is something she’s currently trying to unpack in therapy. Jenny says, “I think now, where I’m at, is trying to decipher what’s fear or what’s preference. Do I hate jeans because I hate how I look in them, or do I hate them because I genuinely prefer wearing dresses? Honestly, I don’t know, and I’m just trying to detangle mTy thoughts about it all, really.” As for me, I’d like to say that I’ve let go of my rules. Loosened the metaphorical belt, so to speak. It’s 2021, who gives a fuck, right? But if anything, the opposite has happened. Now instead of mostly being self-conscious of my arms and stomach, the itch to cover up has extended to my legs. Seriously, I dress like a high school teacher (still sexy tho). Thank God, long dresses have been “in” recently. But with summer impending, I can’t help but feel a pool of anxiety in the pit of my stomach. For me, fashion still feels like an endless jigsaw, piecing together a string of directives into a workable outfit. You know, the thoughts of “I can only wear this top with these jeans, because they’re high-waisted” or “this dress is sleeveless, so I need to pair it with a jacket”. If I do wear something tight, I’m left juggling between the choice to wear spandex (and spend the whole evening feeling physically uncomfortable and hating myself) or wear comfortable underwear (and spend the whole evening feeling emotionally uncomfortable and hating myself). Sometimes these rules are like a security blanket, and letting them go feels like both the best and worst thing in the world. The thing is, these rules have less power over us if we talk about them more. If we expose those parts of ourselves that we consider unlovable, and let them be loved. Fashion is meant to empower, not burden us. We should use clothing to highlight the best of ourselves, rather than hide behind swathes of fabric. Compliment your friends. Compliment those drunk boys and girls in the club bathroom. Everyone is hot as shit, and they deserve to feel that way. Let go of those hidden rules, wear whatever the fuck you want.

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Fiona Lu @fio_nlu

MASSIVE

How to Make a Fashion Statement During Winter Words by Elizabeth Chan

The popular fashion trends of the ‘50s are back in 2021 with preppy checkered ponte pants plus the sassy flare jeans from the ‘60s promenading along. We all know that autumn and winter have the best outfits. I mean, being able to style a look while feeling comfy is the best thing ever. Unlike styling a look during the summer. Having to wear miniskirts that ride up your thighs or wearing shorts that practically expose your entire legs to the mall’s sticky, leathery public seats. ‘Nuff said. While layering up during the winter gives a smart, sophisticated look, it can be tricky to make a statement when everyone else is as layered up as you (except that one guy who goes out with nothing but a t-shirt regardless of the season). Don’t even mention trying to follow the summer’s criss-cross halter tank trend that is dominating Instagram. So, how to stand out from the crowd while staying warm and toasty? Here’s how.

The Checkered Ponte Pants If you’ve stepped into a mall or at least passed by a boutique, you might’ve noticed the craze on all things checkered. Like, the checkered ponte pants, for example. Fresh and preppy, a pair of the checkered ponte pant is a brilliant addition to your winter wardrobe. If you’re cracking your head over what to wear to university, the check ponte pants is a life-saver. Checkered ponte pants give a classy yet academic look. It just does. The best part is, check ponte pants match with any plain coloured shirt. All you have to do to stand out amongst your classmates is slip into a pair of checkered ponte pants. Here’s a tip: slim fit checkered ponte pants match elegantly with a pair of black heeled boots. Checkered ponte pantspants ponte pant checkered pants.

you can go all out checkered and match a plaid blazer with your checkered ponte pants (okay I promise we’ll stop now). Matching outfits guarantee an aristocratic look that is bound to turn heads.

City Girl To the next 2021 trend: flare jeans. While flare jeans look fantastic during the spring and summer if paired with a taffy pink halter crop top or any other tanks, nothing beats the saying, “anything goes with denim”. Snatch a classy look by matching your flare jeans with a pair of ankle boots and a wool blazer.

Spontaneous Casual For those warm winter days, throw on a simple cardigan to style your flare jeans for a casual yet spontaneous look. While you’re at it, chuck a couple of scarves on. The more scarves the better. You’re just so casual! Very Jake Gyllenhaal Red-era.

College Chic Throwing on a shacket (a shirtjacket) - a favourite item from late 2020 as the Northern Hemisphere transitioned from winter to spring - gives an effortless chic look. Only eat with sporks to complete the look.

The K-Drama CEO While the checkered ponte can be styled with loafers and a turtle neck to give an academia

pants black look, CULTURE

What do Your Fun Socks Say About You? Words by Caroline Moratti

In the past few years, “fun” socks have risen in popularity. Some say it’s a cop-out for not having an actual personality, whilst others say they’re a cute, harmless accessory. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. Sadly, I’ve dated many a fun-sock man in my time. The good news is, I now have a wealth of information that I can share with you, dear readers. So, without further ado, here’s everything your fun socks say about you.

Tacos: You just LOVE tacos! You go

out on a lot of dates, and will endlessly express how tacos are the perfect date food. And sure, maybe they are, but you’ll never have any other ideas. Bowling? Art galleries? Forget it, you just want tacos. You pay a lot of money for these little guys too, since you’re the kind to go frequent gentrified whitewashed restaurants for your sweet kick. Oh, and you also use the crying face emoji...a lot.

Rubber Ducks: Ironically, you have poor hygiene habits. You love making out in playgrounds and aren’t afraid of holding hands in public. If anything, you’re a little too committed. If you don’t get a response on Tinder, you WILL double message. Then triple message. Maybe a fourth if you’re a bit drunk that night (you most certainty will be). Dogs/Cats: You’re SUCH a

homebody. You just LOVE staying in and watching movies. Parties? Yuck, no thank you! Did you mention you’re an introvert? Yep, that’s right, INFJ! Despite being an introvert, you like to loudly talk about what you’ve been watching on Disney Plus that week, as well as how much coffee you’ve had to drink that morning (wow! 3 cups! Better cool it down babe!).

being a book worm has stuck with you, despite not picking up a novel in about three years. Watching movie adaptions on Netflix counts, right? You dream of writing the next great bestseller but, truth be told, you’re actually a bit shit. That doesn’t stop you writing poetry to your ex, though (we get it, they fucked you up).

Fruit: You also don’t actually eat

fruit, but you consider socks a good substitute for the real thing. You love dancing, and go clubbing practically every weekend, but you never seem to pull. Why is that? Is it because of your seedy dancing? Or constantly scabbing a dart from randoms in the street? I guess you’ll never know (we know).

Golf: You like to fancy yourself as mature,

a real George Clooney in the flesh. This is all because you occasionally eat Brie, which has truly set you on the path to being a food snob. “Oh no, not cheddar!” you cry from your freakishly high horse. You don’t date because of your high standards, instead choosing to neg your attractive female friends around you. Oh, and you drink red wine but secretly long for white (less harsh on the ol’ teeth).

Celebrities Faces: Wow, you’re just SO funny! Get a load of this guy! Class clown, right over here! Socks with Kanye West on them? Now I’m just bending over backwards. Really, what a fucking riot you are. Bet he’s your best mate, huh? Just having a little laugh, God you really crack me up sometimes.

No Socks: Fucking psychopath.

Needs to be stopped at all costs.

Books: Winter gets you depressed and you’ll find yourself lusting over your high school relationship (it’s been years, mate). You read a lot in primary school so the identity of CULTURE

My Yellow Shirt Words by Mason Tangatatai

Illustrations by Tallulah Farrar

My yellow shirt may be a small creation, but it represents a huge wealth of new understanding.

an eerie mood in the air as I can feel the stares of regulars spotting a clear outsider.

A Sunday morning trip to Spotlight is a daunting proposition to any fashion novice. The never-ending library of fabrics starts to blur my gaze and the funky patterns cause a searing headache. I quickly lock my focus onto a lone piece of buttery-yellow fabric peeking out from a pile below my eye line. My mind races to Bananas in Pyjamas, I like those guys. This split-second decision decided the colour for my first ever homemade t-shirt.

I walk up to the counter and place down the yellow fabric, reciting my girlfriend’s mother’s name for a shameless discount. A slanted smirk on the cashier’s face shows she senses my lack of confidence and belonging in this hostile environment.

Spotlight doesn’t lend kindly to those with no sewing experience. There is

comfy at this uncomfy moment in time, as I witness how much my 1.5 metres of banana-like fabric and butter coloured thread will cost. This 35-dollar purchase hurt. I expect the hurt was like a sewing needle piercing the nail of your little finger but we soldier on.

“Uh, 1.5 I guess.”

I’ve never made my own clothes before. Mainly because I’m clumsy, my fingers tend to struggle to work coherently with my brain and my creative flame never sparked as a young adult.

By this point, I’m already regretting my decision to step out of my comfort zone. The comfort zone looks especially

You see, making a shirt is no simple task for your average 21-year-old. I thought the process of sourcing and sewing a

“How many metres?”

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in the Wairarapa was tough, but I would undoubtedly rather get the axe back out than try to pin fabric that won’t keep still. As a few more hours tick over, my yellow creation starts to take form. An arm pops up, a second unravels from the body, the neckline widens, and the seams come together, leaving me with my first ever sown creation.

I’VE HEARD THIS IDEA OF REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE MY ENTIRE LIFE – BUT I HAVE SUBCONSCIOUSLY IGNORED THE IMPORTANT STEPS OF REDUCING AND REUSING.” shirt would take a mere hour. You know, chuck two bits of fabric together, cut a head hole and voila – how hard could It be? Alas, for the next four hours I am curled up in front of a sewing machine cutting shapes, sewing wonky lines and losing my mind to piece together this yellow monstrosity. My poor fingers are cramped, my back is aching and the only thing keeping me from giving up is that I’ve gone too far to stop. Sewing is a gruelling act of labour that is swept under the rug and given the illusion of being an easy and relaxing pastime. My infamous first job of stealing Christmas trees from hilly lots

After over six hours of toiling, poking and prodding, plus an additional six hours of my girlfriend’s patience, I feel a soothing sense of relief rush through my body. I just created something I can be proud of. This accomplishment is quickly met with a sudden moment of realisation. Why did it take me six hours, cost me 30 dollars, and ruin my physical wellbeing to make a shirt that I can buy for $10 down the road? When we factor in the wages of employees, upkeep of the factories, storage, labelling and transport - $10 is never a justified price point.

Over my lifetime, I have fallen victim to the ‘cheaper is better’ mindset for my own selfish reasons. Although I don’t want to excuse my poor behaviour, I believe I had this mindset because I hadn’t had an experience to quantify how badly overconsumption and a lack of upcycling has on the environment. What we consume determines the kind of world we live in. Buying a $10 t-shirt says you are okay with this status quo. You’re not a bad person for buying cheap clothing, just make sure you treat it like you made it, love it like it’s worth $1000. If we treat each piece with kindness and extend their longevity by fixing rips and tears, we are contributing a positive change to the fashion industry and environment. My yellow shirt isn’t the nicest, hell, I’d even say it’s borderline ugly – but I love this shirt. All the time, effort and sacrifice invested in my wonky collared ball of bright yellow means I will fix it when it tears and look after it for as long as I can.

Frankly, I would be pissed if I saw my yellow shirt on the discount rack at the warehouse for that price.

The cost of a shirt:

I’ve heard this idea of reduce, reuse, recycle my entire life – but I have subconsciously ignored the important steps of reducing and reusing.

$7 for thread

So often as students we follow the trend of op-shopping and thrifting and pat ourselves on the back for this form of recycling. When in reality, we might wear these recycled clothes two times and go shopping again the next weekend only to get rid of what we bought the weeks prior.

$29 for fabric

6 hours of living wage 6 more hours of my girlfriend’s time A new appreciation for those who make our clothing

I’m far from perfect when it comes to sustainability. I try to make the right choice when I can see the dilemma in front of me, but most times I can’t see it.  I urge all you other fashion novices to take that daunting trip to Spotlight, find your fabric and depart on this tough but rewarding journey. What you’ll emerge with is a newfound appreciation for the work that goes on behind the brands, and your own yellow shirt to cherish for years. CULTURE

A Waist of Time

A deep dive into the history of corsets Words by Ari Prakash Illustrations by Tallulah Farrar

If there’s one thing about fashion I don’t miss, it’s the skinny eyebrow trend of the early 2000s. It looked like a strong breeze could blow those skinny bitches right off your face. But fashion is cyclical, and skinny eyebrows will probably come back. But, something I didn’t expect was corsets. The history of corsets go way back to the Minoans, an early Greek civilisation active from 3000 to 1100 BCE, and that garment hasn’t fully gone out of style since then.

Vintage Corsets: More Victims than Jack the Ripper? Or a Harmless Fashion Accessory? Both corsets and Jack the Ripper were active in the Victorian era. The latter definitely killed a bunch of women in the streets of London. The former? Well, the results are mixed. Many mainstream sources say corsets are dangerous, but it depends on what you use them for. There’s waist training (problematic, but I’ll get into that later), corsets as a bra replacement or just for the aesthetic. In the Victorian era, corsets were pieces of strong fabric that wrapped around the waist and had metal or bone inserts for structure. The front was done up with hooks and the back with laces. It was a trend for both men and women to shape their waists with corsets. Although, for women, there was more emphasis on giving the boobies a lift. For the guys, it was more about getting that V-shape silhouette. The bra was a recent invention, so most people used corsets to stop their back snapping from all that big, tiddy weight. Mary E. Halliday is just one story of extreme corset usage, after her sudden death in 1903. Two steel corset bones pierced her heart and caused a seizure. Valuing fashion over health has always been a problem over the centuries. From using arsenic dyes in dresses to sewing lashes into eyelids, the idea of “beauty is pain” has been one of the only constants in fashion. Some say that corsets are pretty harmless in general, if not beneficial for posture and wellbeing. But other more sciencey places have long been warning about the dangers of lacing a corset up too tight. For example, the Lancet, one of the longest-running and most respected science journals (it better be, I used their articles in my essays) has warned about the potential dangers of corsets, due

to “tight-lacing”. Tight-lacing is tightening the corset to change the waist shape. Extreme tight-lacing can cause permanent organ displacement, which can lead to organ failure. Yikes. On top of that, materials like whalebone were used to make corsets. Baleen whales were a popular source for them, and because humanity sucks, they were hunted close to extinction. However, corsets became more hardcore because fashion technology advanced with the invention of steel bones, baby. So, the whales were spared, but the waists were not. They were snatched left, right and centre. Apparently, corsets caused faintness, restricted breathing, indigestion and the back muscles to wear down when worn improperly. But women continued to tight-lace their corsets because it was the trend. But, the reign of the corset ended (temporarily) in the 1920s when the “ideal” body shape for a woman was a “boyish” figure with a flat chest and a slim waist. Weird, how body sizes and shapes are treated like coats on a rack, aye? They can be put on and off again, depending on the mood and the weather. It’s kinda shitty.

Netflix and Tik Tok: Our Fashion Guides Bridgerton. I’ve heard about it, and you have as well unless you live under a WiFi-less rock. It’s got corsets, rich people and sex because if a period drama isn’t CULTURE

spicy, no one’s gonna watch it. Bridgerton’s added influence has led to corsets being hailed as the new accessory for winter. In the past couple of decades, variations of the corset have appeared. For example, Madonna’s iconic corset cone bra. It was a way of reclaiming corsets and saying “fuck you” to its history of constricting women’s bodies. Fast forward to today, and keeping with the cyclical nature of fashion, the “hourglass” figure came back along with its partner: the vintage corset. History has a poor memory, so we’re repeating the same story of corset tightening again. The culprit: Tik Tok, an app that often rates high on thirst traps and low on intelligence. The “corset challenge” was a couple of months ago, but give me a break. It’s never too late to remind people about how problematic some Tik Tok challenges are. The corset challenge involved seeing how tight someone could lace up their corset in time to the song “Haus of Holbein” from the musical, SIX. Participants would also lip-sync to the lyrics: “You bring the corsets/ We’ll bring the cinches / No one wants a waist over nine inches.” Nine inches is 22 centimetres, and while the song originally is taking the piss when it comes to damaging beauty standards, there’s no context in the corset challenge. Tik Tok is full of people who don’t know any better and take these as gospel when it comes to body ideals. It also can be triggering for people who have eating disorders. The goal of the challenge could be interpreted as having a waist that’s around nine inches. But, that measurement can only be applied to cartoon women! Even imaginary women like Jessica Rabbit from ‘Who Framed Roger Rabbit’ had an estimated 10-inch waist. The average waist size for an adult woman in the UK is 34 inches or 89 centimetres. For New Zealand, the estimate is 34/35 inches.

It’s like the chicken/egg question: which came first? The trend or the body ideal? Surprisingly, someone who hated corsets, I mean loathed them, was Napolean Bonaparte, who said corsets forecast “the decline of humanity”. Oof harsh. Imagine the havoc Napolean would wreck if he was alive today and had a Twitter account. To be fair, many people use corsets today and don’t have extreme stories like that of Mary Halliday. It depends on how you use them. Corsets are bad for waist-training. But many wear corsets just for the aesthetic and play around with it, i.e., Madonna’s cone bra. Corsets themselves aren’t dangerous. Before bras, many women used them as lingerie and many people use a variant to help with posture or recovery after an accident. Think of it this way: skinny jeans aren’t dangerous, but an Australian woman had to be cut out of hers after they cut off her blood circulation. I have a couple of corset style tops that I wear for fashion reasons, but I don’t waist train for fashion. Using corsets to conform to the “hourglass shape” means that other body shapes aren’t as acceptable. It goes against body positivity because the history of corsets shows that body modification for fashion is not worth it. Waisttraining is driven by societal pressures that are going to change pretty quickly anyway, and if it does come back into fashion, it’ll take decades. The costs of ruining your body aren’t worth those nine inches.

Vintage corsets have come back into fashion, but these days we’re also playing it pretty fast and loose with the word “corsets”. I’ve seen tops with zips in Glassons and a little bit of structure boldly called “corsets”. There are societal influences in why corsets have come back into fashion, but there is no harsh social rejection if you don’t wear one, which was the case in the 19th century.

So, what’s the verdict? The ideal body of a woman seems more than a little unrealistic. We know that the world knows that, but it’s still being fed to us via fashion, the media, and so much more. About a decade ago, the goal was to be thin as fuck, and now we can be fat - but only in specific places. Big boobs and a big ass. But no flabby arms or belly fat? The “ideal” hourglass shape? That’s not a human being; that’s a cartoon character. But vintage corsets were invented to help create an “hourglass” shape. At one point in history, Catherine de Medici, a French queen, banned thick waisted women in court during the 1550s (smh). So, it led to a rise in corset popularity. I know history is a bitch sometimes but really, Catherine? Who hurt you? It shows how body ideals have shaped fashion rather than the other way around. CULTURE

PUMPED UP KICKS A Look into the Unique World of Sneaker Reselling Words by Harry Bartle What if I told you a 21-year-old kid had built up a net worth of over four million dollars by simply reselling shoes? Not only that, but what if this kid - or should I write, young entrepreneur - was the first port of call for the likes of Drake, Travis Scott, and DJ Khaled when they wanted a shoe even THEY can’t get seem to get their hands on? Well, that’s the case for young American Benjamin ‘Kickz’ Kapelushnik. By the age of sixteen Kickz had made his first million by simply purchasing shoes from retail stores such as Footlocker and Nike, before selling them online for substantial profits. Before you drop out of university to pursue an underground croc smuggling ring, it’s good to remember that Mr. Kickz is one of the most recognized faces in the industry of buying and reselling sneakers, an industry that is now valued at over six billion dollars and continues to grow with each passing day. But don’t worry, this business and its millions, aren’t all based around living in America and meeting celebrities; students

“You have to camp if you want the shoe. I remember lining up for the Court Purple Air Jordan 1s with about 30 people for the whole night. I made a quick $200 profit when I sold them a couple of months later.” and young adults all over New Zealand are making good money buying and selling sneakers from Auckland to Invercargill. Today Massive takes you behind the scenes of the growing industry and art of turning shoes into cold hard cash. It starts with a word that has moved from being a person’s name, to an entire industry: Jordans. Nike’s Jordan brand range are some of the most sought after and expensive sneakers in the world, with prices of the various styles ranging from an affordable $99 to a not so affordable $560,000. Here’s a tangible example: The Jordan 1 Retro High Travis Scotts (even the name’s a mouthful), are a pair of highly anticipated sneakers that dropped in select Jordan Brand retailers and online on StockX on May 11, 2019 with a price tag of $250NZ. So pricy, but not too bad for the lusty sneakerhead. The trouble is, these particular Jordans sold out in less than a second. Yeah, you read correctly, ‘one second’. For most mortals that would have meant having the fastest click speed in the world to even have a chance – we’ll talk about that some more soon. So, how do you get a pair of shoes that sell out in a second? Well, this is where the money-making starts. Milan Suka, a 22-year-old student at Victoria University was able to purchase a pair from a reseller for $750NZD a few months after the initial CULTURE

release. That’s already a $500 profit for the reseller and as hard as it is to believe Milan got them CHEAP. Fast forward to July 2021 and Milan’s pair of well looked after Jordan 1 Retro High Travis Scotts could easily sell for a price of $2,500 and that’s on a bad day. But does he sell? Hell no! This is an investment shoe, the longer he waits, the more valuable they become and only when he’s really short on cash, or can’t be bothered looking after the shoes, he’ll sell up and walk away with a substantial profit. Pretty fucking mint, huh? Even without selling his prize sneakers, in just over the two years Milan has made about $3,000 profit buying and selling other shoes (and he rarely sells compared to some). Despite the value, he prefers to wear the shoes and who can blame him, he’s got some real diamonds in his collection of over 50 pairs. “It’s a win win no matter what, if you look after them the shoes will never lose their value, they either go up or stay the same depending on the market and if they don’t sell, I get to wear a nice shoe,” he tells Massive. Okay, okay, so Milan is buying from resellers, but getting your foot in the door (excuse my shit pun) of this exclusive industry can be the biggest hurdle buyers face. Let’s go back to the Jordan 1 Retro High Travis Scotts. These shoes started at $250NZD, but you can’t exactly just go into your local Footlocker and make a quick, tidy profit. Remember I mentioned having the fastest click in the world? Well, even that won’t work for most people, sadly (I’m pretty quick in other aspects of my life). If you want those shoes, you’re going to have to go camping. Although this camping doesn’t involve a bunch of hapless people trying to figure out how the poles of a tent work, it is pretty similar to the summer camping we’re all used too. Dedicated resellers are more than happy to park up in a sleeping bag and chair as early as 5pm the day before a drop to ensure they can get their hands on the latest kicks. Air Jordan 1s drop six to seven times a year, usually with a different colour wave each time. For these drops, a retail store such as Footlocker may get as few as 80 pairs, so you can be sure that any pair of highly anticipated sneakers will be sold out in less than five minutes when the doors are opened. Francis Verbo, another student who has also had some success buying and reselling sneakers, has had his fair share of nights in a sleeping back outside Footlocker on Lambton Quay. He says, “You have to camp if you want the shoe. I remember lining up for the Court Purple Air Jordan 1s with about 30 people for the whole night. I made a quick $200 profit when I sold them a couple of months later.” Legends of the reselling game, like Benjamin Kickz, have taken camping to another level. It’s said that, in the early days of his career, the then 16-year-old paid 20-30 other students $50 each to camp overnight and buy the shoes on his behalf. This clever trick easily made him triple that amount with every shoe sold. So, if you’re looking to make some money on the side, or just like wearing fancy new sneakers, this reselling business could be for you. With Nike and the Jordan brand continuing to grow, there will be plenty more to choose from. Even if you’re a poor student, just one pair could pay your rent for a month or two, if you get your hands on the right ones. Who knows, maybe you could be counting up the millions while waiting for that call from Drake, because he can’t get a pair of sneakers with his own name on them and was wondering if you could help! Good luck!

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RED BULL FLUGTAG 2021.

WIN $1,000 TO HELP BUILD YOUR WIIINGS. Want to represent your university at Red Bull Flugtag? One student submission from each city will win $1,000 to go towards launching their flying machine at Aucklandʼs Wynyard Quarter on Saturday 27th November 2021. APPLY NOW AT REDBULL.CO.NZ/FLUGTAG T&Cs apply.

CULINARYLINGUS

R E C I P E T O R E C OV E R F R O M F U C K I N G U P YO U R R E C I P E

The secret to the perfect roast lamb requires patience, love, and devotion to the final product. In terms of the meat, I can’t recommend a classic leg of home kill enough. Nothing beats it, although I recognise this won’t be a viable option particularly for our Wellington and Albany readers. The next key part of a roast is your veggies. I typically would opt for potatoes, kumara, parsnip, and … oh shit. I just realised I don’t have any of the veggies lol. You can’t make a roast without vegetables. No one wants a plain hunk of meat on its own, unless its 1am and you’re feeling alone, lol. Okay, it’s okay. Fucking up the grocery shop can happen to the best of us. It’s 5pm on a Sunday and there’s not a chance in hell I’m hitting the supey at its peak time. Guys, it’s all good, we can recover.

METHOD 1. Make sure your device is charged, and open up the website for Mount Cook Kitchen (Wallace Street). 2. Carefully go through the options and select as many or as little as your heart desires. Don’t worry if you don’t understand what any of them

mean. Just trust the process. You can never go wrong with a scoop of hot chips. 3. Wait the designated time until pick up. 4. Pick up the goods, and hope the owners don’t recognise you from having been here for the third time this week.

5. Arrive home. Pour yourself the strongest kind of gin and tonic. 6. Devour. 7. Sit and listen as your happy belly grumbles with joy. Hot chips. What a blessing.

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Sexcapades X-Rated Adventures of the Massey Underbelly Daddy Issues

Got a confession, a naughty tale, a sexy story? Email sexcapades@massivemagazine.org.nz to submit yours xoxox I have been told multiple times that I’m a walking red flag.... and this story definitely makes me seem like one. This boy I was fully in love with all through high school finally kissed me one night at the end of year 13 while we were drinking down at the pub lol. It got very heated very quickly so we decided to leave the pub for a quickie before our friends noticed we were gone. For some context: the pub is across the road from a playground and a church, all kind of in the centre of the little town. We walked across the road to the playground, had a go on the swings and the merrygo-round thing... getting more and more intense. The playground wasn’t private enough though, so we took a wee stroll toward the church.... The church had this nice sheltered stairway thing which led to the entrance so we parked up there and did the deed. He shuffled out of his corduroy pants,

and gently fingered my nipple. Just the one, but it was still hot though. After a bit of ear licking and ball play, he came inside of me. Definitely a one-pump wonder, not much of a BP oil spill from my end. #GodBless. Kinda fell out of love with him after that. Once we started putting our clothes back on I started feeling an overwhelming sense of guilt and decided to vocalise this... “Guess what was the last time I was here” I said to him. “I don’t know,” he replied. “My dad’s funeral, lol.” Awkward vibes.... deffos not the right thing to say lol. To settle the awkward vibes he suggested that we pray to my dad and ask for forgiveness for fucking in front of his literal death bed. So we got on our knees on the stairs facing the church, and both prayed to my dad and he apologised for rooting me. So wildly inappropriate and awkward now that I look back on it. But yeah, anyways, I would like to deeply apologise not only to my father but also to the Pukekohe Presbyterian community. Godspeed.

We’re Going on a Man Hunt

Spinster Woman Seeks Desperate Man Trying to Convince my Friends to Date Me By One Less Lonely Girl Welcome back to another week of me embarrassing myself very publicly, in the pursuit to find love (or at the very least, a quickie and a kiss goodnight). Whilst speed dating was, surprisingly, a success last week, I have since found myself delaying all those dates. Why, you might ask? Honestly beats me! It’s probably a mix of self-sabotage, bad weather and family/work commitments. The truth is, dating is so much effort. I’d much prefer to fall in love through the classic friends-to-lovers trope (I’d even take an enemies-to-lover trope at this point). I have a decent handful of male friends too! So, I thought to myself, why the fuck aren’t I dating any of them? I decided to message them to find out. Yes, really. Micah is Massive’s designer, who is currently in a lovely three-year-long relationship. He refused to tell me why he wouldn’t date me (boo) but suggested the reason that I’m single is due to the fact that I have “no follow-through” (honestly fair, seeing as I have just delayed all those blind dates). Micah also told me that I “openly talk too much about pissing my pants” after a glass of wine. This, I will defend to my dying breath. I think talking about pissing is fun, relatable and human! Who here among us doesn’t have a good pissing story? If that’s the reason I’m single, then I’ll happily be a spinster, thanks. James is a mate who I’ve have hooked up with twice, but we always end up friend-zoning each other (plus he lives in Christchurch lol). He’s single, has a nice head of hair, but came across a little salty when I asked why we had never dated: “You’re single because fuck idk, daddy issues? Depression? Maybe you’ve just got a bad attitude.” His advice for me seeking love? “Go on dates instead of writing wannabe Critic articles?” Hahahaha, over my dead body. I’ve been friends with Simon since first year of uni. Since then, he’s started dating a lovely friend of mine, and he’s honestly one of my best mates. Aw. So why did we never date? According to Simon, “Telling any

man who does something nice for you that he’s a white knight might not be an effective way of attracting a mate.” Okay, good point, but that was like ONE time in second year. And I was friends with a lot of white knights, truly. But hang on a second, don’t boys loved to be negged? Apparently not. “Nah girls just think boys love negging, but boys are just fundamentally lazy. I think most people’s current dating mantra is ‘If you try and don’t succeed, never try again’.” Okay, I might have been going about this whole dating thing terribly, terribly wrong. Although my current mantra is actually, “Don’t try, don’t succeed, never try again.” When I asked what his advice to me would be about trying to find love, Simon sent me a link to Bo Burnham’s song ‘Lower Your Expectations’. Cheers, mate. Connor is another one of my nearest and dearest, our friendship again dating back to the first year of uni. Over the years, he’s slept with many of my friends, before finally settling down with a lovely lass. So why didn’t he date me? Well, he says, “Despite the many tender glances we would share over a mild butter chicken, I could never love someone who worked in student journalism.” Rude, but fair. Connor adds, “Plus I will never be tunnel buddies with [REDACTED].” So, what’s his advice for me finding love and future tunnelling? “Stop telling people about your ‘cheesy noodles’ for the love of God.” To clarify, that is not a euphemism. I just really love two-minute noodles mixed with cheese, again a great character-trope of mine, if I say so myself. So what did I learn? Well firstly, I’m a bit of a fucking weirdo, no surprises. I work in student media, talk about pissing myself and have bad/great taste in noodles. But I probably also need to stop being such a wimp when it comes to dating. So, next week: Tinder. Here it goes.

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SNIP, SNOP, SNAP SEND US YOUR SNAPS TO GET FEATURED IN NEXT WEEK’S EDITION @MASSIVE_MAG

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Exec Columns

MUSA: FATIMA IMRAN

MAWSA: TESSA GUEST

ASA: BEN AUSTIN

M@D: JAX WATT & JACALYN CLARE

Kia ora anō, This week we have opened consultation on proposed governance structures for a potentially merged association. Have a read of page 13 for more context, but we wanted to use this space to outline our commitments to students in this process. They are as below: •

The regional identity and autonomy of associations will be retained.

•

Any new model will honour Te Tiriti and Te Ao Māori.

•

Pasifika, Rainbow and Disabled student voices will be included, empowered and truly heard.

•

Any new model will recognise the diversity of student voices.

•

The history of all Massey associations will be retained and celebrated.

•

The assets of current associations will be ring fenced to ensure they are only spent in their region.

•

All students will have the opportunity to engage in consultation of any new model.

•

There will be strengthened and consistent student voices that will be heard by Massey.

These commitments have, and will continue to, inform every decision we make in this process. We are taking these ideas and processes seriously because we believe this is an invaluable opportunity for our associations and students. All students are welcome to engage with our ideas. Information about how to join the conversation is on our websites, social mediwa channels, and Stream (for distance students). We’re looking forward to the kōrero! Ngā mihi nui ki a koutou. COLUMNS

LIFE AFTER MASSEY LIFE AFTER MASSEY

Work Ready Week: From Monday 9th August

Work Ready Week: From Monday 9th It can be a job, to get a job. Preparation pays though, and this week of uguPresented st webinars will work wonders forA that! by Massey Career

Centre allies from employers, professional associations, and Massey’s It can be a job, you to get a job. Preparation pays though, alumni network, can Zoom into webinars on: and this week of • • • • • • • • •

webinars will work wonders for that! Presented by Massey Career Centre allies from employers, professional associations, and Massey’s Crafting a great CV alumni network, you can Zoom into webinars on: • • • • • • • • •

How to ace job interviews Perfecting brand Crafting ayour greatpersonal CV NZHow job market insights from Seek – and how to use Seek effectively to ace job interviews Career opportunities with brand the Dept. of Corrections Perfecting your personal job market insights from Seek and how to&use Seekconditions effectively JobNZ search support for those with –disabilities health Career in opportunities with the Dept. of Corrections Working NZ after graduation – Immigration NZ Job search support for those with disabilities & health conditions Careers in Psychology Working in NZ after –graduation – Immigration Leveraging LinkedIn and job trends they’reNZ seeing Careers in Psychology Leveraging LinkedIn – and job trends they’re seeing

Book in online to get your zoom link! https://myhub.massey.ac.nz/students/events/ Book in online to get your zoom link! https://myhub.massey.ac.nz/students/events/

Scan the code to Scaninthe code to book book in

Horoscopes LEO

You will suffer a horrible, embarrassing, life-changing wardrobe malfunction. Remember, scotch-tape is your best friend. Accessory of the week: “Fun” socks with little tacos on them

VIRGO

Admit it: your crush has a TERRIBLE sense of style! They’re hot but their wardrobe could be borrowed from Adam Sandler himself. You need to admit it to yourself before you can find any sense of acceptance for those cargo shorts. Accessory of the week: Slutty, slutty heels

LIBRA

Think: hot, slutty vampire. A little bit of eyeliner, anyone?? Accessory of the week: 90’s choker

SAGITTARIUS

Comfortable shoes are a MUST this week. You’ll need to do lots of walking away from the assholes in your life. Accessory of the week: Crocs and socks

AQUARIUS

Stop buying so many oversized hoodies, you have enough. If you need anymore, just start stealing them from your hook-ups, it’s much cheaper. Accessory of the week: Headband à la Gossip girl

ARIES

I know you think that fun patterned socks make you seem cool. I know you THINK that, anyway, but listen here buddy.... Accessory of the week: Docs

GEMINI

SCORPIO

Maybe this week isn’t the best week to wear those white pants. Just...hear me out. Accessory of the week: Extra pair of underwear

CAPRICORN

Tiktok called and they want their outfit back. Stop getting sucked into trends, develop your own sense of style. Be daring, be adventurous! Accessory of the week: Teeny, tiny sunglasses

PISCES

Whatever you’re wearing, you IMMEDIATELY need to make it sluttier. I want tits out, I want shorts so short I can see testicles. Hot girl spring is CALLING your name. Accessory of the week: Thong

TAURUS

It’s nipple ‘oclock and it’s time to show off the ol’ raisins. Undo a button or two, that’s the spirit. #Freethenipple Accessory of the week: Fedora. You heard me.

CANCER

Listen, those jeans are tight but they could be tighter. Treat yourself to something that REALLY shows off your cooch.

Before you keep drunkenly asking your friends, I’m just going to say it: yes, you should get another piercing. Less questioning, more doing.

Accessory of the week: Friendship bracelets!!

Accessory of the week: Infected nose ring

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PUZZLE PAGE! WORD WHEEL

The target is to create as many words of 4 letters or more, using the letters once only and always including the letter in the middle of the wheel. 4-letter words: 17 5-letter words: 11 6-letter words: 3

G N

7-letter words: 3 8-letter words: 2 9-letter words: 1

R 25/07/2021 25/07/2021

Printable Sudoku Printable - Sudoku Sudoku 25/07/2021 for-kids Easy- -07/25/2021 07/25/2021

Sudoku - Hard

sudoku.cool

07/25/2021 07/25/2021

1 7

5 9

9 8

1 3

3 8

1 4

9 94 3

7 5

5 7

07/25/2021

7 3

3 62

8 826

2 2 5

49 2 1

1 13

1 66

882

175

EASY

7 1

4 4

5 28 2 6 1

3 1

89 8

2 19

4 4 4

5 4

6 3

3 3 TOP 10 9 SINGLES 9 MASSIVE’S 1

11 6 45

57 94

Moonlit Adelaide Car

3 6

Stoned at the Nail Salon 4 6 Lorde 9

MICAH’S PICK

Rose Pink Cadillac Dope Lemon

25 2 7 77 8

6 3 9 7

Old Peel Aldous Harding

Lucid Drams Chump8Change

JAMIE’S PICK Little Saigon Teddy Penrose

65 3 8 9

9 3

5 79

331 9

3 3 63 1 5 3 8 81 2

Honey Bees Grawlixes

Rockstar Mallrat

4 7

CAROLINE’S PICK

686

915 3 18

7 24

18 2

4 29 62 1 9 3 7

7 8

9 5 4

Heat Waves Glass Animals

Future Me Hates Me The Beths

2 1

5 10 3 8

3 2

Aucklantis Boheme Lily Van Buskirk 39 Days KING FISH

4 2

O Canada Nadia Reid

HARD

66 41

MEDIUM

Printable Sudoku - Hard - 07/25/2021

Sudoku Sudoku - Easiest - Easy

SUDOKUS

Sudoku Today ( https://sudoku.today )

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CROSSWORD ACROSS 1. To give precisely zero fucks (9) 4. To be sexually unfaithful either breaking a promise of sexual fidelity or lying about sexual encounters (5) 7. The opposite of head, and synonymous with ass (4) 8. The colour of LOVE (3) 9. If it’s yellow, let it ‘_____’, if it’s brown, flush it down (6) 10. Inserted into the vagina (6) 11. A person who charts the position of the stars in the sky to gain insight into human personality, and draw predictions

about the future (10) 12. The word you use when someone clearly has no talent and/or is unworthy of praise, status or limelight of any sort (4) 13. The occasionally blue thing above your head that can’t be touched no matter how hard you try (3) 14. The cute girl from Monster’s Inc (3) 17. The state of having no hair (4) 19. A notice of death (8) 21. A female knight of a British chivalric order (3) 22. To walk with attitude (4)

DOWN 1. Audio processor originally intended to disguise or correct shit singing (8) 2. The act of communicating with another person subconsciously but not physically interacting with them (9) 3. Lil Nas X’s latest single (8, 4) 4. Sliced cabbage with mayo (8) 5. Describes events which happened after all the story has finished (8) 6. Where everyone gets a bargain (3, 9)

8. Person with the most Instagram followers (7) 13. Religous day of rest (7) 15. People who don’t eat this part of their pizzas can’t be trusted (5) 16. The male gnome protagonist of the Romeo and Juliet 2011 remake (6) 18. If you can ‘____’ a wrench, then you can ‘____’ a ball (5) 20. The daddy version of string (4)

QUIZ QUIZ ANSWERS: 1. B) 2. A) 3. C) 4.D) 5. B) 6. A) 7. A) 8. C) 9. C) 10. D)

1. What type of hat was famously worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca? A) Newsboy B) Fedora C) Western D) Derby 2. H&M was founded in which European country? A) Sweden B) England C) Germany D) Spain 3. What is Coco Chanel’s real first name? A) Chloe B) Courtney C) Gabrielle D) Agnès 4. Which decade saw shoulder pads become popular in women’s fashion?

LAST ISSUE CROSSWORD ASNWERS - Across 1. Singstar 5. Sexual 9. Richard

A) 50s B) 60s C) 70s D) 80s

D) Pakistan

5. Rocawear was founded by which rap star? A) Kanye West B) Jay-Z C) Drake D) Chance the Rapper 6. Next in Fashion features Tan France and which British personality as hosts? A) Alexa Chung B) Heidi Klum C) Kate Moss D) Rosie Huntington-Whiteley 7. The word ‘pajama’ originated in which country? A) India B) China C) Afghanistan

10. Romeo 11. Haggle 12. Furious 14. Capricorn 16. Gin 18. God 20. Iraqi 21. Burp 23.Sociopath 24. Matariki

8. Who designed Princess Diana’s wedding dress? A) Sarah Burton B) Alexander McQueen C) Elizabeth Emanuel D) Clare Waight Keller 9. Where was the first ever ‘fashion week’ held? A) London B) Paris C) New York D) Madrid 10. Which luxury brand has a logo featuring an equestrian knight and the Latin word ‘prorsum’? A) Coach B) Hermès C) Armani D) Burberry

25. Clown Down 1. Sour 2. Nutmeg 3. Scroll 4. Rehab 6. Endearing 7. Unbecoming 8. Love Island 11. Hat

hair 12. Frost bite 13. Giddy up 15. Panini 17. Eat out 19. Oxygen 22. Plato

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