26 September 2022 MASSIVEFashion 21 MASSIVE
Massive is registered under the New Zealand Press Council which allows our readers to reach out to an independent forum for any complaints that can’t be solved by Massive Magazine, or its editorial board.
Feature Writer
Editor - Mason Tangatatai
Culture Editor - Elena McIntyre-Reet
insideWhat’s 04 News 08 Features Name Three of their Songs A Glimpse Into Tamatha Paul’s Wardrobe The Next Trend What The Fuck is a TheTomboy?Worst Fashion Trends of the Last Decade 30 Columns Confessions of a... President’sPuzzleSnapchatsHoroscopesSolicitedTeSexcapadesReo&NZSLAdviceTimeColumn 2422181283031323334353639
Whiting Illustrator
Feature - Aiden Wilson - Kimi Moana - Sara Moana
Sub Editor - Jamie Mactaggart
Feature Writer
News Editor - Elise Cacace
Writer
Illustrator
Designer - Marie Bailey
Massive is also a member of the Aotearoa Student Press Association. The views, beliefs and opinions reflected in the pages of Massive do not represent Massey University.
News Reporter
Please send any queries or complaints to editor@massivemagazine.org.nz - Sammy Carter - Mia Faiumu - Lily Petrovich
Now get out there, wear the loudest colours you want to wear and don’t give a flying fuck.
Being conventionally fashionable is hard. It can be expensive, it can be inaccessible, it can make you feel like you can't dress how you’d like to dress. This vicious cycle has left many university students, including myself, in a constant struggle to pull together ‘cool’ fits.
Mason Mason Tangatatai (he/him)
The thing that we fail to recognise as we (sadly) pick ourselves apart for wanting to wear something we like is that most people are so focused on their own insecurities and what others will think of them that they often: a) will be so wrapped up in their own world that they don’t have time to notice what you’re doing; and b) most people are applauding those that wear what they want.
The era of wearing what you want
Now, this editorial COMPLETELY contradicts my piece later in this issue where I list the worst fashion trends of the last century. These fashion trends are the exception. I still stand by telling you not to wear them x
At Wellington’s campus we have a fashion block. I like to stay away from the fashion block because everyone looks way to put together, but for this issue I thought I better stroll through here for some inspiration. That's when I struck a chord. None of these students were wearing fashionable clothing, but they all looked so cool. I saw bold colours, frayed edges, five-inch platforms, denim on denim - the entire repertoire of conventional fashion sins. Each of them had this aura of confidence, they knew what they were wearing was an accurate representation of them. Being fashionable isn’t about wearing what's expensive, and what's in, it's about wearing what you want and wearing it
minimalist as you like. The key is doing what makes you feel good. In other words, wear whatever the hell you want.
Whenconfidently.talking to one of the students, they explained to me that style is personal, you can be as extreme or as
“One half of me is glad that we can finally move on and get back to normality again and not have to wear masks, but another part of me is quite anxious that having no restrictions will just make things worse again,” says student Natasha Little.
Another drastic change on Massey campuses is the removal of swipe cards. Swipe cards were put in place at the start of the pandemic in order to minimize the spread of Covid-19, yet the lifting of restrictions means the commonly accessed buildings will now be open again without the need of specified access.
Elise Cacace (she/her)
After two years of living under these government restrictions, their sudden lifting has undoubtedly sparked an array of mixed emotions.
Red light… Green light!
“The commonly accessed buildings are open between certain hours, but there are still some that need swipe access at all times, and some that require swipe cards outside of normal teaching hours,” says Massey Communications Advisor, Dale.
26 SEPTEMBER 2022MASSIVE NEWS 4 • Karere
Fortime.”more information about the green traffic light rules and Massey’s role in supporting students, you can visit our wellbeing page at govt.nz.wellbeing-at-massey/about/health-safety-and-wellbeing/www.massey.ac.nz/andatcovid19.
WEEKLY NEWS UPDATES
For the general public, key changes include all vaccine mandates being removed as of midnight 26 September; mask-wearing requirements being removed except for in healthcare and aged care facilities, and household contacts of Covid-19 cases no longer being required to isolate.
Deputy Vice-Chancellor, Dr. Tere McGonagle-Daly says, “Everyone’s emotional and mental wellbeing is extremely important and whilst many will be celebrating the lifting of restrictions, some of our people will be feeling anxious and nervous about it. Please be respectful of other people and how they may be feeling at this
Massey University has finally retired its University Operating Plan following the recent shift in the Covid-19 Protection Framework, otherwise known as the traffic light system.
WHAT’S GOING ON?
Despite the lifting of restrictions, everybody is still encouraged to stay home and test themselves if they are feeling unwell, or if they become a close contact. You are also encouraged to wear a mask if you are feeling unwell.
For university students, the green light comes with a few extra perks (or disadvantages, depending on your point of view). There are now no restrictions around social distancing, so you can move freely around campus. Masks also are not mandatory anymore except when visiting healthcare services; and again, vaccine mandates end on 26 September. There will also be no immediate timetable changes, and all in-person and online learning will remain the same.
Pheobe Smalley, first-year Film student at Massey said, “I felt kind of secure with a mask on, you feel quite vulnerable without one.” While she liked the freedom of not wearing a mask, Smalley liked being able to cover up breakouts with them.
Patterson, studying Education at Victoria, said she would get acne from her mask, or ‘maskne’. However, her mask would cover this. Patterson was conflicted, saying she’s glad her ‘maskne’ will settle as she wears her mask less. But she wanted her mask to hide it in the meantime.
one. As well as making faces at people like poking her tongue out and
When he heard the announcement that the mandates were over, Short was stoked. He thought it would be a great change and he never wears his mask now.
From covering a pimple to a bad shave, masks have been our friends when it comes to insecurities.
Smalley felt nervous without a mask in big crowds. “I still wear my mask on the bus because you're in close contact with a lot of people. Covid’s still around and I don’t want to get it
“I like lip syncing to my music under my mask,” is something Patterson particularly missed about not wearing
However,frowning.
Sammy Carter (she/her)
Students feel ‘vulnerable’ without masks
Rachaelagain.”
Having been at the busy Auckland shops recently, Walker didn’t feel safe without her mask. She said masks were “a good idea in general to keep people healthy”.
Karunikah Pere-Walker, first-year Architecture student at Victoria said, “I’m more comfortable in public spaces with a mask.” She felt it was better when there were mask mandates as now there's social pressures to not wear them.
WelTec student Alex Short is not missing wearing masks whatsoever. “It was annoying and itchy and hot.” Short didn’t relate when it came to mask helping out with insecurities. “I didn’t like any of it.”
26 SEPTEMBER 2022MASSIVE NEWS 5 • Karere
Since mid-September, mask mandates have been scrapped leaving some students missing them. On the streets of Wellington, students let Massive know how they felt.
and I are currently in the process of getting our Australian visas.
me think, ‘What’s the point?’ For us, Australia offers everything from better pay to cheaper and better housing, and we will be working less hours than we are here so we get more quality time Economisttogether.”
Ruben Watson says, “At this stage, my biggest concern about our current economic situation is the lack of young talent coming into the country, combined with the significant and ongoing loss of talent.”
THIS ISN’T JUST GROUP TRAVEL THIS IS SOCIAL SOCIALTHISTRAVELISTRAVELEXPLORETHEWORLDIN2023&SAVE an additional $100 with Contiki Student Travel Discount.
Brain drain pushes graduates overseas
“I’m not surprised we are seeing a large outflow of young New Zealanders wanting to travel the world, especially after the lockdowns we have just experienced. To me, this is a positive indicator and I am compelled to believe that net-migration figures will shoot back up in the coming years as we reopen our labour market.
effects include a slower or limited capacity to innovate, demographic shifts and reduced economic growth.
“In the meantime, we have to face the challenges that come with having more work than we have staff to do it, and recognise that the pressures on the economy are likely to remain until this is resolved.”
“TheseDonahue.last
I will definitely miss New Zealand as a country, but I won’t miss how much everything costs, and how much I have to work,” says graduate student Lily
“MySimpson.boyfriend
few years have been so hard financially. Both of us work fulltime and we still struggle to pay all our bills and also put aside any savings for a future house/travel. It just makes
Elise Cacace (she/her)
26 SEPTEMBER 2022MASSIVE NEWS
Recent statistics have shown that more people are leaving the country than arriving, with monthly netmigration figures remaining in the negatives since March last year – the lowest that Aotearoa has seen since the 1990s. The pandemic can take a lot of the blame for this, and with the borders reopening it is expected that many Kiwis will take flight.
“I’ve noticed the staff shortages in particular. I work in a popular Auckland bar and we are so understaffed that sometimes my manager and I end up having to work 14-15 hour shifts just to stay open. It’s ridiculous, and I know we are not alone. I know many other businesses that are having the same trouble. It sucks because it makes taking sick days virtually impossible,” says Auckland bar manager, Jorge
So, what does a brain drain mean for New Zealand? Immediate effects include staff shortages, reduced human capital, loss of talent and a higher cost of public goods. Long term
It is no secret that New Zealand is currently facing severe worker shortages. Prices are rising. Wages are falling. Young New Zealanders are increasingly feeling the pressure to leave our country in search of a better deal elsewhere. To put it in short, our country is experiencing a ‘brain drain’.
But for real, y’all, it’s time to pick up your game and get back to campus. With no keycard restrictions and less
Where the fuck is everyone?
Moretekorohunga Lloyd
University is meant to be a vibrant hub. Students bustling to get to their next classes, others filling the halls gossiping about how shit their lecturer is. But, while making our way through the Wellington campus in search of fashionable students, Massive found a shocking discovery. Campus is a ghost “Whattown.
Weslump.urge
7 • Karere
online classes, we have the ability to resurrect Massey from its Covid-19
and a roof straight out of Mamma Mia! and no one was even there. It was so quiet I reckon I could bring a mattress in and call it home," says one Massive
Editor and 22-year-old boomer, Mason Tangatatai, found the discovery disheartening. “I remember the good ol’ days of ‘20, Tussock was packed to the brim; you couldn’t get the famous hot chips unless you lined up at 9am. Nowadays I wouldn’t touch those chips with a ten-foot pole. It brings a tear to my eye.”
you all to get out there and explore your local campus. In Wellington, Tokomaru (or the War Museum) is filled with beautiful architecture, a perfect place to calm your thoughts and get into a study zone. In Palmy, I’ve heard rumours about a secret tunnel system that runs beneath the entire campus. Get chatting to the groundskeepers and they might let you take a look. For Albany, well, I don’t have many recommendations for you. Go climb the golden chicken wing.
the fuck people? Where you at? I just accidentally walked into some random atrium in Tokomaru with tiles
Massivestaffer.
Massive Staff
The
8 • Aronui Can you feel the hairs stand on the baCk of your neCk? Can you feel your heart beating right out of your CanChest?you feel your bones aChe like there's something within? “name three of their songs.“ Aiden Wilson (he/him) Illustrated by Lisa Dao @pyonnyom
Can you feel a smelly teenage boy about to ask you to name ten nirvana songs? (sinCe you're suCh a big fan.) asking alexandria
nightmare phrase which has tormented teenagers for far too long.
-
As I’ve tried to get across, the biggest irony in the gatekeeping is that the most worn out of these shirts are those of incredibly mainstream artists and bands, and they’re sold at one of the country’s largest fastfashion retailers.
And with that line of questioning, you’ve shat yourself. Look at that. Your pants are ruined, and the music nerd is laughing at you because he’s tried to embarrass you by gatekeeping a popular band. And now he’s acting like Gorillaz is an underground group and that you “haven’t lived till you’ve listened to Radiohead’s ‘97 masterpiece OK
What I’m getting at is this: stoP gatekeePing mainstream artist merCh for Crying out loud.
Recent years have seen the return of the band graphic tee to many store shelves. Fast fashion stores stock an abundance of musician shirts, allowing fans to rep their favourite artists at an affordable price. For a huge Nirvana fan like me this is awesome! I get a dope shirt for peanuts and now have more wardrobe. For people who don’t listen to the music but just like the designs, it is a blessing and a curse.
the maining of the stream
Do you even know who [MAINSTREAM 90s ROCK GROUP] is??
Not to mention that even without the music behind them, these artists have some of the most iconic designs and artwork to exist within media, of course it’s going to end up on a cheap t-shirt in a shopping mall.
So what if you like the way the shirt looks? Because little Johnny Rotten Wannabe says so you’re not allowed to wear the damn thing unless you can name 500 songs off the top of your head.
for this. You simply went to the shops wearing a Nirvana shirt and this hooligan has gone out of his way to torment you.
And now he’s disappeared, and you’re left standing there with a red face and shat pants.
what I’m trying to get to: these bands aren't niChe in the slightest. you are not the only Person who listens to metalliCa and if you get shitty with someone for wearing a shirt, you're Just a diCk.
Going onto Cotton On’s website we can now see they even have a “merch shop” section, with music merch being its own subheading within the merch shop section itself.
From here we are able to see all the rock and metal shirts the shop carries, with bands such as Nirvana, Metallica, the Rolling Stones, and Pink Floyd. Basically, every single one belongs to a group that some sort of music-Chad would quiz you vigorously about if you found yourself in the wrong place at the wrong time. These groups are not niche in the slightest. People make the joke about “Nirvana being their favourite shirt brand”, but that’s what Nirvana exactly is – a brand. And the same goes for any form of art that you can find on a shirt. You could substitute music for films and the message of this article would be the exact same thing.
Just to show how ridiculous it is to ridicule another person for wearing a shirt with a group they “don’t listen to”, I did some digging.
For starters, the majority of people who are like that weren’t even born when these bands were at the height of their popularity (referring to grunge/metal/ rock mostly, you rap kids are alright). In fact, a fair few had released over half their discography before these people in question were but a twinkle in their parent’s
what do you mean it's not my sPeCial little seCret disCovery??
9 • Aronui
YouComputer”.neverasked
Again,eyes.
No one likes a know-it-all, especially the one that spies a TOOL shirt in a crowded shopping centre and singles out the person wearing it, interrogating them until they find out if they know what Maynard James Kennan’s nut sack smells like (it smells like rosewater and lime for anyone wondering).
Who gives if this stuff is worn by people who don’t actively listen to the music itself? A shirt with a cool design is a shirt with a cool design.
is the 130th most-listened to artist on Spotify. Nirvana, 126. Now, I don’t know about you, but to me those sound like mainstream bands. To gatekeep groups like this is just plain dumb, and to prod someone for their own knowledge on them because they wear a shirt is just ignorant.
This genre as a whole has been under scrutiny since it appeared on the scene, being called ‘the Devil’s music’, blamed for violence, and brining ideas of what the type of people who listen to it are like. Nowadays it’s one of the most listened to types of music in the world.
so why are roCk fans so anal about PeoPle wearing the merCh?
so where do i stand…?
I now see that is a ridiculous stance to take, especially when it comes to rock and roll.
let them like the shirt for what it is a shirt.
To bat home this point, why don’t we look at some Spotify stats?
While we cannot see the specifics for Aotearoa, we can see where these bands are ranked on a global listener
10 • Aronui
Fashion is a form of expression, how you want others to perceive you, but it mostly is about what makes you feel happy and comfortable. People cannot and should not control what someone else buys and wears, so if someone feels happy and comfy wearing a Metallica shirt, who cares if they listen to the band or not?
So next time you see someone wearing your favourite artist, film, video game, comic book character or whatever on a shirt, think before you ask about their favourite songs.
As a huge rock fan, I may have used to gatekeep these bands. Not to the extent you see it now, not questioning someone of their knowledge on the groups. If thought crime was an offence though I would have been jailed a long time ago.
or, you know, don't sPeak at all. that, too, is a viable oPtion.
Metallicascale.
When I first started wearing the clothes I do, I saw it as me expressing my love for the music printed upon them, and that people who didn’t listen to the same music should not wear the clothes I wear because they just didn’t get it.
shouldn't they be haPPy that what they love is finally getting the reCognition they wanted it to?
I must admit something to you now…
Sleeping jacket by Aditi Tiwari - @sweetttpotato
Alongside Black music, Tamatha is also very much influenced by the fashion of Black political activists that was seamlessly paired alongside their politics. She mentions Angela Davis, Malcom X and Huey P. Newtown as iconic fashion (she/her)
Tamatha Paul is a young wāhine, who has been making waves inside the Wellington City Council since 2019, and is currently standing for re-election in the Pukehīnau
WhileWard.
A Glimpse Into Tamatha Paul’s Wardrobe
she is known for her meaningful kaupapa and pushing against old ways of thinking in the council, Tamatha is also known for her on-point style, continuing to push against institutional expectations, even in her clothing choices.
For this week’s Fashion Issue, I have had the pleasure to sit down with Tamatha, to find out where her style inspiration comes from, where she gets her favourite pieces, and how she maintains her personal style within the council room.
pioneers.MiaFaiumu
12 • Aronui
Instantly when asked about her fashion inspiration, Tamatha mentions the strong influence of Black culture on her style.
“I’m a hundred percent inspired by and influenced by Black creativity, Black fashion, Black artists, Black designers - that’s a hundred percent where my style comes from,” Tamatha tells me.
“I think straight off the bat, it’s really important for me to acknowledge that upfront because so much of this world benefits from Black creativity but so few people acknowledge that so I have to put that upfront and centre,” Tamatha continues.
Her style emanates a sense of fluidity and is strongly influenced by the post-Y2K 2010s, hip hop culture and the timeless fashion of Black political activists.
“I love my tā moko and they’re a really special part of who I am and my identity as a Māori woman,” Tamatha states.
A large part of Tamatha’s fashion is not only related to her clothing but also to her tattoos.
Tamatha tells me that she undoubtedly receives criticism, comments such as ‘you’re never going to get a job now’ or ‘you look like a criminal’. Although, this in itself is a reason why she got them in the first place.
Her inspirations in Aotearoa have been through the Polynesian Panthers and Ngā Tamatoa, whose style was not surprisingly deeply rooted in Black culture and the activism of the Black Panthers.
“I never wanted to forget what my families had to go through and that those attitudes remain regardless of my achievements.”
“My tattoos and my tā moko especially, are such a massive part of who I am and how I want to present myself to the world.”
Tamatha tells me she got her tā moko on her hands when she was 20.
“I wanted it to be an upfront part of who I am, that people couldn’t not acknowledge when they see me as a whole person.”
A part of the reason for her to get them done on her hands was as an acknowledgement that she’s the first person in her family to go to university, and this was only possible because of the work her whānau before her carried out with their hands. Tamatha explains she never wanted to forget this.
13 • Aronui
14 • Aronui
Wardrobe, Tamatha tells me is a great spot for pre-loved clothing, and often has more high-end office wear, perfect for students heading into first-time Placesjobs.
for shopping sustainably are through second-hand online finds. Tamatha loves Designer Wardrobe and Trade Me as places to discover great pieces which are both affordable and good for the Designerplanet.
Tamatha therefore obviously has a lot of admiration for New Zealand music and the interconnectivity between music and fashion.
These brands are all based in Aotearoa and have a sustainable and ethical kaupapa going alongside Yearsthem.
When discussing particular brands and places to shop, Tamatha off the bat states, “I don’t do fastHerfashion.”toptips
She comments that she loves combining the two elements, and considers supporting New Zealand hip hop to be ever important.
like Trade Me are your best friend for those of us living in Pōneke, where warm coats are a necessity. She notes that buying second-hand can really bring down the price on must-have expensive clothing Initems.terms
of buying brand-new, Tamatha only does this for New Zealand brands she loves. Amongst her favourites are: Havilah, Checks, RUBY, Kowtow, Arcade, Years Gone By (YGB), Sky Pirates and the iconic shop Good as Gold.
Gone By is an independent record label, associated with the likes of Avantdale Bowling Club and Team Dynamite. The label produces merch, having released many political t-shirts throughout the years.
Sky Pirates is the street-wear brand of Lance Fepulea’i, otherwise known as Lucky Lance, who makes up a third of Team Dynamite.
Her political clothing has often come from YGB, which she notes is her favourite clothing brand by far.
As she says, “I’ve always thought fashion is highly political.”
“There’s no difference between us and them,” Tamatha points out. “We’re not special, and that could be any one of us up there.”
“When you grow up in a place that’s considered to be a hood in New Zealand - like where I grew up in Tokoroa - symbols of Nike are seen as symbols of success and people who wear them in those communities are listened to,” Tamatha explains.
“When we wear Js and we have formal political power, it’s a symbol to our communities and the places we come from that we’re still the same people, we’re still listening to them and we’re just like them.”
She describes to me her YGB All Blacks rugby jersey, which has been co-opted to read Honour te Tiriti, alongside a refreshed Steinlager logo which now reads Stolenland. Another favourite shirt displays an image of the Hawaiians killing Captain Cook, accompanied with red script that reads Stop Gentrification.
“It just shows why it’s important to be authentically ourselves and dress the way we want to,” Tamatha says.
This links back to her aforementioned fashion inspiration that has deeply stemmed from the style of political activists such as Angela Davis, Malcom X, and looping back to Aotearoa, the likes of Ngā Tamatoa and Tame Iti.
While she acknowledges that these are capitalist symbols, she understands the importance of representation in positions of political power.
“Trevor Mallard said that Jordans are for drug dealers and gang members,” Tamatha explains.
“I’ve worn Js on TV, I’ve worn Js to council meetings, I wear Js when I’m out doing my mahi in the community.”
Tamatha says it’s really important to make that distinguishment. There are still deep biases existing within Aotearoa, and racism still has a firm grip on many people in this Thecountry.way
you dress can play a big part in how others perceive of you – something Tamatha is acutely aware of.
She also comments that this consciousness of the interrelation between fashion and the political has deepened through watching Te Pāti Māori co-leader Rawiri Waititi’s experience in Parliament.
Tamatha states she doesn’t shy away from wearing these types of clothing into the council room. Notably, her Stop Gentrification t-shirt has penetrated the walls of council, which made me especially happy.
15 • Aronui
16 • Aronui
“That’s why it’s even more important for me to dress the way I want to dress sometimes, because I want to challenge those things,” Tamatha states.
“I’m still respectful in that way,” she comments, “that’s probably a way I’m more influenced by tikanga - knowing when it’s time for your number ones and when it’s not.”
In this essence, Tamatha is a councillor who actively shows a sense of respectfulness while continuously doing the mahi and pushing against the institutional racism that permeates the walls of council and wider government.
17 • Aronui
“If I’m wearing a hoodie and trackpants, I’m going to get treated way differently than if I’m wearing an outfit from RUBY,” she says.
“It is sad, experiencing the different ways that you get treated based on the way that you’re dressed.”
At the same time, Tamatha acknowledges the necessity of dressing formally for important events, such as those to do with mana whenua.
Not only is her fashion a reflection of her wider sense of self and identity, but she uses it as a further means to promote and uphold the kaupapa and justice that she fights for as a councillor.
Lily Petrovich (she/they)
Inago.this
The Industrial Revolution saw an even more dramatic shift in fashion, from around 1760-1840 (and we’re under 100 years), bringing with it machines that could make clothes. What came from this was trends in knitwear and woven fabrics and, more classes.accessibleclothingsignificantly,thatwastothelower
18 • Aronui
So,faster.let’s
Trend cycles are speeding up, and no one can deny that. The older you are, the more aware of this you probably are, until getting completely disconnected from what ‘kids these days are up to’.
HISTORYTHE OF TRENDS
Good ol’ Ancient Romans, I’m sure you’re familiar with the stylistic choices of the time. Clothes were specific in a sense to telling the story about a person. Your garments reflected class, gender and social status, which is a recurring theme with fashion throughout time.
Henry VII was seen as probably the biggest in fashion during this time. Wearing dramatic accessories, intricate gowns and about as much jewelry as you’d find at a Lovisa (except not that shitty cheap metal that leaves grey stains on your skin).
Following the reign of the Romans came Anglo-Saxons, around 400 AD – 1000 AD. In this time, belted tunics were brought in in for men, while women wore shawls and layers and layers of tunics. In this time, the quality of garments worn by an individual once again would reflect the social status of the wearer.
Soon came the Norman invasion of England, which led to tighter fitting clothes.
Medieval times came along, and women were wearing even tighter gowns, long sleeves and full skirts. Men began wearing even shorter tunics, with older men in robes.
We tend to love coming home with a haul of new clothes. Maybe we’re keeping our style the same but swapping old pieces for new ones. Maybe we’re feeling a bit stuck in life and decided to slide from one style to the complete opposite. Maybe, not to sound like a burnt-out millennial writing for BuzzFeed, we’re off following the newest trends. Whether the idea of ‘trends’ gives you the ick or not, you have thoughts on them, and you’ve probably followed a few.
From here, things start actually getting interesting, as opposed to being a stylized sheet.
take it back to the Ancient Romans and look at how western fashion has evolved since. We’ll see how trends would literally last hundreds of years (imagine).
The Romans of both genders, (around 700 BC – 450 AD) wore tunics; a short-sleeved or sleeveless one for the men, while women wore longer and sleeved tunics. Of course, on formal occasions we saw the classic togas whipped out.
From 1450 to 1650 the Renaissance period brought change. This is significant, as we can already see the trend cycles speeding up, we’ve gone from 600700 years down to 200, but this would be the equivalent as us dressing in 1820s fashion, which we see as a hella damn long time
Illustrated by Kimi Moana Whiting (she/her)
It’s hard to gauge how much trend cycles have sped up, especially in an era where everything is speeding up. We sometimes forget that humans existed before the 20th century, which at the time was seen as an era with quick development: it’s just our development got even bloody
period, the monarch became the fashion icon of the time. The lower and middle classes would strive to mimic the garments worn by royals, which is a theme that since picking up here, we haven’t really let go. Our fashion icons may no longer be the royals, but the influence of elites on fashion started here, and never ended.
This is where we really began personalizing what we wore. Men began wearing shoes with buckles, pants, waistcoats and jackets, and women wore even more intricate dresses.
The film industry during the 20th century had a huge role in developing fashion as we know it today. This is a period where royals no longer were the ones which lower classes looked to for style inspo, but celebrities. By the 1910s, there was a revolution against the impractical styles featuring corsets, and the flapper style came in, allowing women to dress without help. Orientalism also began to grow, featuring fashion from other cultures.
The time between WWI and WWII was actually seen as a ‘golden age’ for fashion, as Western countries started developing again, women joined the workforce and new consumers were entering markets. This brought about an androgynous sense of style, with sportier looks becoming casual.
This brings us to that time period which changed everything again, the First World War. Everything got sad again and no one had money or resources. The colours in clothing faded way, making room for monochromatic fashion, however this didn’t last long.
Hopefully, one day, the trend will be no trends, because we already have so many, they are becoming meaningless.
Then, as WWII came along, we were mass producing fashion, which replaced expensive hand-made garments. This meant target markets genuinely were becoming lower classes, and people could afford to try and ‘recreate looks’, particularly from film.
19 • Aronui
This led to the huge variety in the market we have today. Following WWII began the trend cycles we know today, starting at 20-year cycles. There were different types of styles to follow, from rebellious, to more tame, popular to weird, or colourful to dark. The 90s brought far more variety in fashion, alongside the birth of subcultures.
This is obviously a dreadful thing for the environment, but I’d argue it’s also bad for us as consumers. This shit isn’t just expensive on the wallet, but mentally too. You have to constantly be up to date if you're trying to follow these cycles, but have to balance being trendy and not basic, blah, blah, blah. In reality, fashion should be a fun and exciting way of expressing ourselves, instead of hurting our wallets, planet and minds.
From this period until the mid-20th century, Paris was the fashion centre of the world. Designers had ‘houses’. An early one, titled the ‘House of Worth’, began to become known almost as a brand, leading to what the fashion brands we have today are.
Men dressed less formal and younger, while tailcoats (those blazers with a long ass back) got shorter.
The Crash of Wall Street again changed fashion. Once again, conservative fashion as seen during WWI was around again.
From 800-year trends, to only a couple months. When we look back at history it becomes clear how fast our trend cycles actually are. I mean, we really only can see them as cycles today because we go through them so quickly. What used to be in, will probably come back.
Here came tailored dresses for the day and the most glamourous night gowns you could imagine. These gowns were complex and weren’t even designed the be put on by the wearer, but by a team of servants (this is why women have buttons on the opposite side to menswear).
@sweetttpotatoTiwariAditi
The struggle of wanting to dress in masculine clothes while not having the right body shape for them is a real one. Finding baggy jeans without looking like Adam Sandler, and t-shirts that don’t have a ridiculous neckline and show off a bit of boob is a real struggle. For this
22 • Aronui
When I heard it was time for Massive’s yearly fashionthemed issue, I’ll admit I was a bit stumped. I’d never considered myself a particularly fashionable person. In fact, I’m more of a throw-on-whatever’s-clean kind of person. I don’t mean one of those, put together messy people either - I genuinely do not put much effort in. However, I became acutely aware that nailing down my personal style and putting it into a word was an extremely difficult task. When I was younger, I was described by adults as a tomboy, consistently dressing in my older brother’s hand-me-downs. Nowadays I just prefer to call myself queer. I still dress more on the ‘masculine’ side of the spectrum and tend to just find something that makes me feel comfortable, and wear it until it inevitably rips in an awkward place. The issue I have with the word ‘tomboy’, is that I have no idea what it means, but I might be completely gatekeeping it.
The other relevant thing to bring up is the topic of makeup. I never showed an interest in makeup, I always thought it was my desperate need for perfection,
What the fucK is a tomboy?
Elena McIntrye-Reet (she/her)
exact reason, the appearance of the oversized clothes trend was an exciting prospect for someone who didn’t enjoy dressing in the clothes that were prescribed to her based on her gender. When this trend came along - idealised images of conventionally attractive, skinny, and often white women were celebrated and propped up as an ideal middle ground between masculinity and femininity. One search for ‘tomboy’ on Pinterest pulls up pages of images of women who look like models. It’s true that celebrating one specific type of body is not exclusive to women dressing in traditionally ‘masculine’ clothes, but it is an issue that irks me significantly.
One issue with walking the line between masculinity and femininity is dressing for a formal setting. I learnt this lesson the hard way by forcing myself to wear a dress for my stupid high school ball. So, when I saw ‘business casual’ as the dress code for my office job, I nearly shat my oversized ASOS pants. All of the outfits that come up when you search ‘business casual’ on Google are straight-up feminine. The outfits that are celebrated as being ‘tomboy’ or ‘androgynous’ still conform to femininity. These images will show conventionally attractive white women in pantsuits and blazers, that are cut to still show off the traditionally feminine parts of a woman's body. These outfits are paraded as viable options for those of us who despise dressing feminine, when in actual fact contribute to the same feelings of discomfort that wearing a dress and heels would. The fact is, there is little room in formal environments for masculine presenting women to dress in an outfit they feel good in, and still be taken seriously.
beauty standards to be taken seriously. In other words: you can’t have it all. If you want to wear the same thing your male colleagues are wearing then you feel the need to compromise by wearing makeup, or finding an outfit that has touches of femininity.
In 2015, when Orange is the New Black announced the casting of Ruby Rose in its third season, gay women and straight girls went crazy for her, and I’ll admit I was one of them. She was held up as an icon for androgyny, an example of a tomboy that everyone was attracted to. The problem was that she was held up as an icon of tomboy fashion because of how well she fit into the ‘ideal’ body type. As much as Ruby Rose is attractive and talented, she was also not the ground-breaking style icon she was held up to be. The reason she was allowed to explode on the internet was that she presented in a masculine way that was digestible and made sense to people. The reality is that a lot of the time, women who want to dress masculine will have a harder time finding clothes that suit their body type. For those of us who steer clear of feminine clothing, finding clothes that look like ‘men's’ clothes but fit a ‘women’s body’ often proves an impossible task. It’s not as simple as buying a
knowing I was terrible at painting and thought that incompetence would translate to the application of foundation. In hindsight though, it’s more to do with me having no interest in expressing femininity. The expectation for women to wear makeup in the workplace in the first place is outdated and misogynistic. I have friends who work in retail, and part of their contracts is to ensure they are presentable. As part of this, they are strongly encouraged to wear ‘natural-looking makeup’. If you want to dress in a more masculine style, there is an expectation that you’ll still conform to some traditional
23 • Aronui
pair of oversized jeans at an op-shop, or ordering a pair of Dickies online, because those motherfuckers are not going to fit over an ass.
We should all be able to wear clothes that make us feel confident, in a formal or casual setting. I have no idea what the solution to this problem is, but if you find one, please let me know. In the meantime, don’t compare your ability to walk the gender fluidity line with those who can just slip on a pair of Hallensteins’ pants and call it a day, and if you are one of those people; I envy you deeply.
A trend that sits near and dear to my heart. Flashback to 2011, the boys are all getting ready for a new year at school. One of your mates rocks up to the playground wearing a NewEra Snapback that's three times too big for his head. Back in the day, a crisp snapback gave you all the street cred you needed to survive the halls of primary or intermediate. Nowadays, the snapback is merely
The worst fashion trends of the last decade
Oodie
Fuck I hate Oodies. I understand they’re made for comfort over fashion, but whenever I see someone wearing an Oodie I wince, knowing that thing will never be washed. I understand why Oodies have taken off this winter, but don’t give wind to the robe wannabe. Part of my hatred towards Oodies is that I know if I ever got one, I would NEVER take it off.
Skinny Jeans
The opinion on skinny jeans is largely split. For some reason anyone over the age of 25 has taken a liking to skinny jeans, but millennials are doing God's work advocating for the cancellation of the suffocating attire. Where skinny jeans separate themselves from the pack is that they don’t look good on anyone. Usually controversial fashion trends will look good on conventionally attractive people, but alas, skinny jeans look good on no one.
Life is subjective. We as humans all have our preferences, our tastes, and there’s generally no disagreement with that point. But, over the last 10 years, fashion has taken a topsy turvy rollercoaster ride, leaving us with some indisputably heinous fashion trends. I would say I'm not trying to shame anyone, but I am. Here are the 10 worst fashion trends from the last 10 years.
24 • Aronui
Mason Tangatatai (he/him)
Illustrated by Marie Bailey (she/her)
These jeans
I probably shouldn’t be commenting on predominantly women based trends, so I got a woman's opinion on ombre.
If red flags had a fashion trend it would be these pants. These jeans don’t even deserve to be named because I wouldn’t dare risk one of you impressionable readers thinking they look cool and buying into their trap. I hate, hate, HATE.
Ombre
25 • Aronui
"Professional ombre, slay. 2014 Tumblr dip dye, go to hell. Learn from my mistakes people.”
Funky hats
Probably the most controversial pick on my list. I’m aware that Air Force Ones came out in the 1980s, and up until the 2010s the shoe was a staple in the sneaker world. Its cultural influence and ability to be altered for collabs kept this shoe running for decades. But, all good things come to an end! And when the Air Force One started to make a resurgence in the mid-2010s, the shoe lost its sentimental fell and just became basic. RIP AF1, you’ll be missed.
What's that? A hat? Berets, fedoras, cowboys – they all fall victim to the great hat purge. None of these are cool. In fact, most of them make you look creepy. I suggest hair implants if you’re balding, or just a good ol’ bucket hat if you’re not.
Air force ones
Scoobies & loom bands
Loom bands have a time and place. That time is never, and the place is nowhere. If you wear these past the age of 13, which I imagine all of you reading are, you need to rethink what it means to be a young
Drop crotch pants
26 • Aronui
Crocs, bucket hats, stubbies, mullets. You might be wondering why these questionable fashion choices haven't made the list. My perspective is that taking the piss out of bogan New Zealand fashion is not cool. There’s a sense of national pride, a sense of endearment attached to these trends. And I for one have rocked all these trends at one point in my life.
Face masks...
Dreads on white people
The drop crotch pants were made popular by Justin Bieber in the mid-2010s. This is all you need to know on why it shouldn’t be worn. The picture to the left should also illustrate why.
This one is self-explanatory. Cultural appropriation is a gross life and fashion choice. Protective hairstyles aren’t for white people’s hair. Get with the times and go back to ombre.
Lol… I’m not an antivaxxer, I promise. But these masks did not help my acne.
Best of Both Worlds by Aditi Tiwari @sweetttpotato
STUDY! SLAY!
SLAY! SERVE!
Purchasingwork.more
ofConfessionsa...Confessionsofa...
A boy at school once made a backhanded comment to my face about my mustard-coloured knitted jumper one day at school . While it was pretty harmless, I was left feeling like all I could and should wear was skinny jeans and Topshop crop tops because that’s simply what the girls all wore. But at uni, cardigans and jumpers are, dare I say it, cool? With newfound access to a student loan, I definitely over-consumed from fast fashion brands as I revamped my wardrobe, going from being a teenager to a student who didn’t feel like neon crop tops really fit her vibe anymore.
However, with more knowledge of the problems surrounding fast fashion, I have made a concerted effort to reign in my consumption. Do I still buy fast fashion? Yes. Because if I need a basic top, I will buy one for ten dollars instead of the prices charged by ethical companies, which range from $50 to $70 per top. I, and likely most students, can’t afford those prices regularly. But I still feel guilty if somebody asks where something is from, and I have to admit it’s an unethical H&M piece.
I’m not here to say that fast fashion is fine, and we should just keep going as we are because it is convenient. The fast fashion industry is awful, with the operation of sweatshops to manufacture the clothes, producing microplastics that pollute our oceans and is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions. But I do think there are unrealistic expectations for average shoppers to solve this issue, when there is a lack of a consistent, affordable market for alternative sustainable clothing. We have become used to low prices for clothes for decades now, we cannot expect everyone to suddenly just accept that basic wardrobe pieces now cost hours’ worth of
30 • Rangitaki
Fast fashion, cheaply and rapidly produced clothing at low prices to keep up with current trends, is a problem we are all thoroughly aware of through social media, especially TikTok, as sustainability makes its way through the algorithm. Last year, one popular YouTuber posted a TikTok showing her new top from a sustainable company, stating that “fast fashion sucks” and encouraging us to thrift or invest in good quality pieces that will last. What she didn’t share was that the top in question cost $250, to account for the more expensive long-lasting materials and ethical production. As one TikTok commenter pointed out, this equates to around 20 hours of work at minimum wage for 18–20-year-olds. At the end of the day, fast fashion is widely available at low prices. Sustainable clothing is less accessible, and I don’t think it is up to others to police our habits, because sustainable fashion is a privilege, a very worthwhile one, but still a privilege to access and promote.
We all deserve to look and feel nice in our clothes and more blame needs to be put onto the companies producing the clothes rather than blaming consumers, many of whom do not have the luxury of shopping sustainably elsewhere. While sustainable advocates may not like it, fast fashion allows more people to get involved in fashion and keep up with the trends when the price tags of designer brands like Balenciaga are out of reach. And I don’t think it is up to environmental advocates to make people feel guilty for wanting to enjoy clothes on a budget that is accessible to them, however worthy the cause may be. What environmental activists should be doing is instead voicing what the average shopper can do to help, rather than highlighting everything they are doing wrong.
thoughtfully and less often is perfectly adequate for the average person. Charity shop when you can, and if your budget lends itself, absolutely support ethical companies. Do what you can with what your clothing requirements and budget allows. Fashion should be enjoyed and expressed with confidence, not something we should be made to constantly feel guilty about.
Confessions of a is an anonymous column that looks to unearth viewpoints from unique individuals at Massey University. Each week we will give the spotlight to someone new, so If you think you’ve got an interesting story to tell, please get in touch with Editor@ massivemagazine.org.nz
fast-fashion shopper
SE XCAPADES
May the force be with you
31 • Rangitaki
I was quite horny that night and before he could doze off I scooted my ass on him. This is my go to move to initiate sex. He took the hint and we started going at it. Sex with my man is great. He knows how to hit all my spots and that helps me look past his childish hobbies. But what this man did next was unforgivable. We have a dildo that we like to mix nito our sex, he asked if he could put “it” in my ass, I said yes…. Next thing you know a bright green light flashes across the room and a distinctive hum comes closer to my asshole. HE TRIED TO PUT HIS LIGHTSABER UP MY ASS. immediately I grabbed the green dildo and snapped the handle off. He was absolutely pissed and continued to give me the silent treatment for an entire week.
My boyfriend of three years has always been a nerd. He grew up playing video games, watching anime and being engaged in that cartoon/gamer lifestyle. More recently, his obsession with collecting memorabilia from his favourite shows has gotten out of hand. Our entire room is riddled with comics, toys and posters that honestly are starting to give me the ick. But there was one moment that made me really toss up whether our relationship could move forward.
Don't date a manchild.
It was a friday night and the latest star wars had come out about a week ago. Johnny had come back from the movie with a souvenir he picked up from EB games. A bright green lightsaber, he said it was the one Yoda used or whatever. After 15 minutes of him showing me it made noises and did cool light patterns, we got ready to head to sleep.
Revitalising Te Reo Māori and NZSL is of paramount importance. Take a few minutes out of your dat to learn and memorise these words. It’s the least we can do.
Hoahoa Puweru Fashion
Te Reo and NZSL
TaeraAtaahuaPrettyStyle 32 • Rangitaki
Words of the week
How do I look cool without spending thousands of $?
Solicited advice is a weekly column where an underqualified anonymous guru answers the questions you want answered. This won’t include the stock-standard, sugar-coated advice you’re used to hearing – we’re talking about the truths that are REALLY on your mind.
This one goes out to all my distance baddies. Now my reasoning is not because of oodies… or EWdies as I call them.. Do you people wash those or do they smell like ball sweat? I've never been in close enough proximity to one to find out... Um anyway, I think it's got to be the distance baddies because any day that you actually get dressed is a day that you deserve a medal for, so props to you.
As for the question at hand.. I don't know and frankly don't care. Doesn't seem to be a problem unless it's a fedora or an unironic snapback.
Do you have a question you’re dying to have answered? DM Massive Magazine on Instagram and look out for next week’s issue. Also, follow us while you’re at it x
So fun fact, I was hysterical when I saw this question, because I thought it said why do so many people wear hats in theatre lectures? And I thought to myself, omg so true, theatre students would be the #1 ugliest hat wearers in the universe. I was imagining those hats with the long ear flaps that you can wear as gloves and theatre students leaping around in them. This made me throw up in my mouth.
What campus has the best fashion?
theatres?
33 • Rangitaki
SOLICITED ADVICE
Why do so many people wear hats in lecture
FULL SEND. Honestly you just have to give it your all. It's not even really the clothes. I think we have established that like 10% of fashion is the clothes and the rest is your body (sadly) and your swag. In some ways, the more insane you dress, the better, as long as you walk tall and maybe wear a pair of hot sunglasses. Unhinged = hot. Lots of layers, a colour palette, chic vibes.
Gemini
Hello, spotlight magnet! If you’re serious about being the centre of attention, it’s high time you drop a coin on a disgustingly flamboyant fur coat. Extra points for a matching fur hat.
Time to invest in a lightweight silk robe for the warmer seasons ahead. You get the same level of comfort as your beloved Oodie but without the back sweat. Cute!
TAurus
AquArius
You’re already very fashion forward, Aquarius, but let’s go one step further this week. I’m talking growing a dirty, filthy pornstar moustache. Buy a stick and poke kit. Patterns on patterns. Make jaws drop, baby.
Embrace the flowy look this week to pay respects to your inner fish. Try the flowy skirts and button-downs with pastel blues, greens, and of course corals! Add some lace for ultimate sex appeal (if that’s what you’re going for).
Venus is entering Libra this month! Let your wardrobe to reflect this. I’m talking soft pinks and reds, love heart patterns, SKIRTS?! Why not? Love is in the air!
Aries
Like an energizer bunny, your brain is always going at full speed. This week, try to combine athleisure wear with bright colours to match that intensity. A neon headband would be ideal.
cAncer
Don’t be ashamed of the weird envy you have for people who need to wear glasses. Go get yourself some Quay blue light glasses and slay the day away, Sag. Academia chic is so in.
sAGiTTArius
scorPio
Material girl! Don’t even think about looking at anymore online shopping until you’ve paid back all the Afterpay you owe. I’m serious, Taurus, we both know you can’t afford it.
Horoscopes
cAPricorn
With all my love, that winter black turtleneck was not the serve you thought it was. Keep going with the dark colours to create that air of mystery, but try elevating your look with some icy accessories (sans turtleneck, PLEASE).
To celebrate the arrival of spring and flowers, you simply must get a new tote bag. Perfect for stealing neighbour’s plants and shopping at the farmer’s market. Slay, earth signs!
34 • Rangitaki
This week make sure you never leave the house without a pair of sunglasses, no matter the weather. Awkward social encounters are on the horizon, and you need to be prepared to avoid!
Leo
Pisces
VirGo
LibrA
I like you, Cappy. You keep it basic and simple (in a cool way). Try spicing up your white singlet, baggy jean combo with a colourful pastel cardigan or bolder earring. Time to stand out a bit more.
MASSIVE_MAG TODAY MASSIVEMASSIVESendus snaps to get featured in next weeks edition 35 • Rangitaki
Puzzle Ptime uzzle time
3. Beauty injection (5) 8. An unfortunate blend of jeans and leggings (8) 9. Hallensteins sister (8) 11. NZ fashion designer, complainer (5,6) 14. Fashionable sandals (11) 16. Ballet shoes (6) 17. Basketballers shoe (7) 19. Māori plant used to weave (8) 21. Formal suit worn with a bowtie (6) 22. Top, row or corn (4)
Across
Down
1. Corn _, hairstyle (4) 2. American fashion magazine (5) 4. Vehicle, popular shoe (4) 5. Bogan hairstyle (6) 6. Less is more (10) 7. Unethical fashion (4,7) 10. Pants made popular by Bieber (5) 12. Most valuable fashion brand (4) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 36 • Rangitaki
possible from the letters within the Word Wheel.
The target is as as
to create
Word Wheel sudoku
Get lost
https://www.mazegenerator.net/AB,Alance2022©Copyright
37 • Rangitaki
many words
ANSWERSCROSSWORDWEEKSLAST FUNNELL17SWAMP,16CACTUS,15KANGAROO,10MOSQUITO,9YEAST,7SEEKER,5CHARLES,3OLIVE,2ACROSS: NAP18KANJI,14TWELVE,13BRAWL,12OASIS,11THREE,8ESCARGOT,6ELEMENTS,4OAR,2YACHT,1DOWN:mazesigma23by23
Best of Both Worlds by Aditi Tiwari @sweetttpotato
I’ve never been one to care much for fashion. In college I once wore two different colours of Vans in an attempt to set a new trend, only for one of my teachers to quietly take me aside and ask if everything was ok at home.
• Hunters and Collectors
Fiona & Lizzo
• Te Omanga Hospice Shop Petone
But recently, my wife passed me one of her big fluffy scarves to hold. I wrapped it around my neck and was surprised that not only did it feel great, but actually paired pretty well with the rest of my business attire! It softened the whole look. I’m still not converted to turtlenecks and flared jeans, but trying something new from time-to-time can definitely surprise you.
M@D
Josh
Jake asa
MAWSA 39 • Rangitaki
The best advice I've heard in fashion is that style is not about money but taste! So, if you wanna do some affordable and slightly more environmentally sustainable clothes shopping, here are some of my favorite thrift stores in Welly area:
• She preloved
Presidents Column
• Kilbirnie Salvation Army
Kia ora Koutou! Hope you are all enjoying the second semester. It has been great to see so many tauira back on campus and enjoying our events and engaging. Don’t forget, it is time to vote in this years local elections, and it’s really important that as youth we have our voice heard! Go to localelections.nz to see Generation Zero’s scorecards for candidates in your area. Our ‘The Last Dance’ Ball was a huge success, thanks to all who attended and supported this event in partnership with Te Waka and MAPSA. Special mention to our fashionable MAPSA president Delorne who won ‘Best Dressed’ on the night!
