Day 1
Arrival
Quinn and I are going on a new trip together. This time our destination is Thailand, and more precisely the island of Koh Tao, where we’ll spend about a week. Quinn wants to learn how to scuba dive and Koh Tao is known to be one of the best scuba diving sites on the planet. I know she can harldy wait to get there. Me, I’m just tagging along for the ride with no particular plan but to enjoy the sun and practice photography (I’ve finally decided to buy a new camera for the occasion… ). However, when she leaves Thailand, I’ll take the train to Vientiane (the capital of Laos) for a whole new adventure.
5am. We catch a taxi to the airport. Our first flight is from Chengdu to Kunming. The second from Kunming to Bangkok. The flights are short, but it still takes us the whole day to finally land in Thailand. We’re only staying in Bangkok for one day. Tomorrow night, we’ll sleep on the overnight train to Chumphon (near Koh Tao).
The good news is that as French and US citizens, Quinn and I are allowed to stay in Thailand for 2 weeks without having to buy a visa.
From the airport, we ride the BTS (sky train) to the hostel we’ve booked online. The rooms are so tiny that you can’t even open the door if a bag is in the way… Still, the place is clean and the beds are comfy. We’ll come back here on our next stay.
It’s been a long day and we’re both starving. We go straight to the first place that seems to serve some decent food (this one deserves a medal for best advertising‌) and sit down for some pad thai (fried noodles, very popular in the US for some reason). Then, we head back to the hotel to get some sleep. We have a lot to do tomorrow.
Day 2
Fancy Art
Today, we need to pick up our train tickets to Chumphon and our ferry rides to Koh Tao. You can’t book them from the Thai train station website when you’re out of the country. Instead, we asked 12Go Asia (a reputable agency) to get the tickets for us.
We take a day pass for both the metro and the BTS and arrive at 12Go Asia. There, we get all our tickets for our journey to Koh Tao and back. Now, we have the rest of the day for ourselves before our train leaves. We plan to visit Siam Centre (the shopping heart of Bangkok) for some food, and then spend the afternoon in the BAAC (Bangkok’s Art and Culture Centre).
On the way, I notice some movie posters in Thai and this funny warning against durians.
This fruit smells so bad, it’s actually against the law to carry one around in public transport‌
The Siam Discovery building has a large food court on the top floor called Food Republic. There’s a similar one in Chengdu. You put cash on a card that you use to purchase food at any of the stores, and when you leave, you get all the money left on it. It is quite convenient. Quinn gets chicken curry, I try the fish balls. They are a bit chewy and served with some spicy sauce.
For dessert, I get shaved ice cream with colorful jelly beans and a large glass of pandan leaves ice tea.
Also, who remembers the Moomins from the cartoon?
Looks like they’re moving up in the world now. They even have their own cafe.
From Siam, it’s only a couple of stations away to get to the BAAC. They have a few shops and cafes, but there’s also a permanent exhibition on the top floor. Here are some of my favorite works.
Look at that snake. And now, look at that cat’s reaction…
This one cracks me up. It looks like some kind of internet meme‌
Some of the pictures are not only impressive, but also massive.
I’m sure this one is really meaningful. I’m just too down to earth to figure it out. But it’s beginning to grow on me. Can you dig it? Ok, I’ll stop. I wouldn’t want you to lose your head over it.
Modern art at its finest - an anthology of boredom. I wouldn’t be surprised if this guy was French… ‘I can save the world. But who will save, moi?’
And when you’re done looking at art. Why not becoming a piece of the exhibition yourself?
Also , nice view of the BTS from up here.
Before going, we stop for a drink at one of the cafes. These places really know how to make a profit. You order ice coffee and you get a glass half-full of ice cubes with some coffee poured in between. Here you go, sir. Just wait for the ice to melt to enjoy your refreshment.
This is it for today. We head back to the hotel, pick up our bags, get to the train station, have a quick dinner and hop on the overnight train to Chumphon.
Oh and the Chinese New Year has officially begun. It’s the Year of the Rooster. How did we celebrate? By having our train depart one and a half hour late, of course.
Trains in South East Asia are notoriously late. To be fair, the country has just suffered from major floods in the South and the railways must still be covered with mud and branches. Anyway, I guess I’ll just have to keep an eye out to make sure we don’t miss our stop in the morning.
Day 3
Sand Pebbles
We arrive in Chumphon at 6am. We were supposed to arrive at 4am. So, I’ve been awake for two hours by now, just to make sure we wouldn’t miss our stop. From here, we have to wait patiently for the bus that will bring us to the pier.
Koh Tao, also known as ‘Turtle Island’ is part of the Chumphon archipelago on the western shore of Thailand. Its surface is quite small –21km². Its economy depends on tourism, especially on the many scuba diving areas that attract visitors worldwide.
After a 20min bus ride and a 2 hour boat ride, we finally set foot on the island of Koh Tao. A taxi to our hotel has been arranged by the diving company that Quinn has chosen for her scuba diving experience.
But before going to the hotel, the driver brings us to the agency so that Quinn can finalize her registration. I’m going with her and decide to join in if there is still a place available in the group. I didn’t want to scuba dive at first because I’m not that good of a swimmer. Also, almost every time I rent snorkelling equipment, I end up swallowing sea water in my tuba – from which I panick and swim back to shore to catch my breath. So, I don’t even wanna know how I would end up if I have to rely on oxygen tanks meters deep below the surface.
But while we were on the boat, I read a booklet that described most agencies on the island. Unlike all the other ones that advertised that, with them, you’ll have the time of your life, swimming with sharks, whales, and whatever else they could think of, the one Quinn had chosen was all about safety. It sounded really reassuring and the only reason I changed my mind. At the agency, I paid a deposit, signed all the papers and they made us check a - very long - list of medical no-nos for insurance purposes to make sure we were able to dive safely. However, I was told that I would only have to pay the full amount once we start training (which would be two days from now).
By the time we get to our hotel, it’s already past lunchtime. We walk straight to the first restaurant we see. The food is decent and it’s nice to finally take a break. Then, back to our room, we crash on the bed. When we wake up, it’s already 5pm.
The room is basic, but it’s the first one we don’t have to share since we’ve left China. After studying a map of the island and doing some research online, we figure out our location and the address of some good restaurants we can try later. For now, let’s just walk to the beach to enjoy the beautiful sunset.
Our hotel is at walking distance from Sairee Beach, which is the most popular place on the island - and it’s not difficult to see why. It really is a nice place to walk around, lie down on the sand, go for a swim, or just hang out at one of the many bars.
You can tell that the island has suffered a lot from the recent floods. There’s constantly water overflowing from the sewers and some places are still being repaired.
Another sad consequence of the flood is that the coral reefs have been severely damaged, with tons of pieces now washed away on the shore.
This ‘broken’ palm tree is quite the star of the beach. It’s impossible to walk by without noticing it. It even has its own personal assistant.
Speaking of star‌ - this dog had them all fallen head over heels for him.
By the time we got to the beach, most people were already done for the day. Locals were bringing back their equipment and tourists were coming back from their day trip.
Today’s only picture of us two. If we do look tired, it’s because we are.
This dog was really cute, going back an forth, trying to catch the sun’s reflection in the water.
At nightfall, we find the ‘best pizza place on the island’ - according to the reviews. It’s simply known as ‘La Pizzeria’. I’m not sure if it’s the best one but it is a serious contender. Crispy, crunchy four-seasons, fresh mozarella salad and olive bread. The perfect comfort food to end a very long day.
Day 4
Water and Fire
We wake up (rather late) and get a taxi for the day, to drive us to Tanote Bay on the other side of the island and then, come back for us at sunset. If Sairee is the most popular beach, Tanote Bay is known to be the an excellent snorkelling spot. It would be a fun activity for today as well as good practice before we start diving tomorrow.
On the island, most taxis are 4X4 pick ups. Getting a driver means riding in the back of a truck.
To see more of Tanote Bay, go check my video on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fKVnRf0wFU
Quinn rents some goggles and a tuba. I have brought my own that a friend gave me after her last trip in Thailand. I assumed they worked fine. Maybe, maybe not. It doesn’t take long for me to start getting water in my tuba. The goggles are fine. I try a few times to tighten the straps and to fix the inhaler, but after a while, I give up and go swimming without the tuba. It was much harder of course because I can’t hold my breath for long, but I did manage to see some tropical fish.
There’s a big rock near the beach. People climb on top of it and jump in the water. I thought about joining them but I saw that the base of the rock was sharp and slippery - and that you need to pull yourself up with a rope to get to the top. I can’t feel my legs after all the swimming and I didn’t want to risk slipping off the edge. So, I chickened out and took some pictures instead.
I’ve seen this picture so many times already during my travels – while the tourists are having fun, the locals work hard all day.
Around sunset, our chauffeur is here to drive us back to Sairee Beach.
For dinner, we go to Barracuda, one of the most popular restaurants on the island. You usually need a reservation to get a table. When we arrive, they tell us that they have a table free for one hour only and that we can sit down if we finish our meal within that time. An hour is often enough time to have dinner without too much talking in between, so we go for it. I get barracuda stuffed with veggies and asparagus, and Quinn gets another fish (I forgot which one) with tzatziki and couscous.
Four years ago, I had some amazing barracuda (circle), grilled at perfection, from a local chef, on an even smaller island in Thailand. So, given this restaurant’s reputation, I had high expectations for what was coming. Well, I did enjoy the food, but it wasn’t as good as last time. Quinn wolfed down her meal and loved every bit of it.
One hour later, we were done. We ended the day by watching a fire show on the beach. I had never seen anything like this. These guys had amazing talent for sure, but they also tried their best to involve the audience in the performance. By getting really, really close to us‌ Watch the best moments of the fire show on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oQxij9K8BA
Day 5
Boiling the Ocean
Today is the big day. We’re going scuba diving. Or at least that was our plan. Quinn suffers from mild hereditary neurological disorder and, while still in China, it was strongly implied that she should see a doctor before diving, to make sure she wouldn’t put herself at risk. She didn’t think she would get affected by it because she’s always been a good swimmer. So, she didn’t see anyone. But this morning, she gets an unfortunate email from her instructor saying that she can’t dive without seeing a diving physician first.
However, the message also says that there is no diving doctor at all on the island. The closest one is on the nearby island of Koh Samui ( at least a few hours away by speed boat) and another one is in Bangkok.
I tell Quinn that they wouldn’t have accepted her at all when she applied online for the course if they thought she would be at risk. They had sent her a medical check-up list that she had read thoroughly and her condition wasn’t part of it. Also, I’ve noticed several clinics around advertising for diving check-ups. There has to be someone we can talk to about this.
The session starts at 3pm. Now, it’s only 11am. We’ll go for a quick brunch first, and then, head to the diving agency to get things sorted. We stop at ‘Le Petit Palace’, a small French cafe with pretty good reviews. The guy in charge is quite friendly and chill. We have a little chat. He is actually only giving a hand to a couple of friends who have just bought the restaurant from the previous owners. He tells me he hasn’t much experience in catering yet, but he’s learning. Instead, the chef is a local Thai woman who’s learned how to cook with the owners and she makes some mean crepes. Best I had in a long time!
After that, we get to the diving resort . We’re met by our instructor (an Aussie woman who seems to know more about tattoos than about human interaction) and a doctor devoid of any people skills. We listen to what they have to tell us. Everyone is on the defensive. There’s clearly tension in the air. Long story short, Quinn can’t enter their program. The doctor gives his best science mumbo jumbo and gets us even more confused. The worst part is that they do confirm that there is no diving physician on the island with the right certification. How stupid is that?! If Quinn want to get certified by a professional, she’ll have to get in touch with the doctor on Koh Samui or her GP back home in the US. We get our money back of course, but Quinn is devastated. Diving was the reason she came on Koh Tao in the first place. Also, she thinks that local doctors may not understand her case properly due to the rarity of her condition and that they are just extra-cautious for insurance purposes.
Right now, we both need to calm down and sit somewhere quiet, while we decide our next move. I suggest to sit down at a nice French restaurant down the beach, where we can get some healthy salad and shakes made from fresh leaves - make mine a fresh mint!
Quinn really feels helpless and disgusted by the way they basically threw her out. On the map, I locate the nearby clinics where they do ‘diving check-ups’. We can always go and see if they can give her any further information on the risks of diving in her condition.
The most depressing is to see all the ads for diving companies while you’re being told you are not allowed to dive… It’s like being in Wonka’s Chocolate Factory and discover you have diabetes. Her check-up proves at least that she is in fine physical condition, even though they can’t be certain that there wouldn’t be any risk for her at all. She thinks for a while about going to see the doctor on Koh Samui tomorrow, but the journey alone would cost her the whole day. She later tried to contact her GP back home, but he never got back to her. So, there was nothing else to do but give up on scuba diving.
We have lost the whole afternoon and we’re clueless about what to do for the next few days - now that diving is out question. Definitely not our finest moment on the island, but it’s not too late to turn things around. We ‘ll walk on the beach for a while to clear our minds, have dinner and see if any opportunity comes around.
We find a BBQ restaurant on the beach, where they serve grilled barracuda. Again, not as good as the one I had back then, but still pretty tasty. Nice, relaxing atmosphere too.
We’ve tried looking for snorkelling day trips for tomorrow, but the tours are either sold out or they won’t accept only the two of us. We would need to find more people to create a larger group or charter a longtail boat, which would cost much more, obviously. We’ll just enjoy the beach and unwind. We both deserve some rest.
Day 6
Riding the Waves
Today is really hot and we’re gonna take it easy. We plan to relax at the beach for a while (which means some reading for Quinn and photography for me) - and maybe rent a kayak.
Breakfast at ‘Le Petit Palace’. A delicious crepe and a couple of poached eggs.
Da dum… Daaa dum… Da da da da… (Jaws theme). By the time the poor woman turned around, she knew it was already too late to cry for help.
A few more hours in the sun and they’ll be sizzling.
There’s a place that rents kayaks. Unfortunately, they are all for two people. I wish we could both have our own because tandem kayaking requires more concentration and a strong co-ordination between partners. We rent one for 3 hours (from 3 to 6pm) anyway. As soon as we’re on the water, I see it’s not going well. Co-ordination? We have none whatsoever. We just paddle in circles and I’m afraid that the waves are going to push us overboard anytime soon. I guess the owner saw it as well as he paddled his way to us to suggest we exchange our paddles with one another. I didn’t even know there was a difference between them… It does make an improvement but we have to get back on shore. Quinn says that I should go by myself instead. We’ll meet later.
At first, I thought I wouldn’t be able to drive a two-person kayak by myself, but it was much easier than expected. I went to the pier and back in a couple of hours, meeting local fishermen in their boats and taking a few pictures along the way.
After meeting with Quinn again, we manage to book a snorkelling day trip for tomorrow with a resort. This one specialises in big groups of tourists. They have boats that can carry a hundred people at a time. We avoided it at first because we didn’t want to be part of such a large crowd. However, the group scheduled tomorrow has less than twenty people so far, which is exactly what we need.
For dinner, Quinn wants to try a local Thai restaurant called Su Chili. But after 2 hours of intense kayaking, I need something more consistent. So, we went for the ‘best burger joint on the island’ according to the reviews. I wasn’t disappointed and had my share of protein for the night. We’ll try Su Chili tomorrow after our day trip.
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