Day 14
UXO
The two most popular temples in Vientiane are Wat Sisaket and Ho Pra Keo. They are on every organized tour and part of the city’s most famous attractions.
Tours usually start at 9am, by Wat Sisaket. To beat the crowd, I get there at 8am (right at opening time) and start by Pra Keo. But not before getting a nice French pastry for the road.
Wat Pra Keo was built in 1565 to house the sacred jade statue of the Emerald Buddha (now in Bangkok). It is used as a religious museum for a collection of old Lao and Khmer works of art. No photos allowed inside.
Opposite from Pra Keo is Wat Sisaket, built in 1819. It is the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane – the only one that survived when the army of Siam sacked the city in 1827. The temple’s cloister walls hold thousands of Buddha statues.
The temple is constantly being renovated. People are spending their days inside the main hall, painstakingly working on the wall paintings to prevent the colors from fading away. No photo is allowed inside, so I took one of the large book sitting outside.
Right when I leave the temple, I see tourists buses lining up outside. Farewell to the crowds. I walk around the area for a bit. There’s a few old French-looking houses and a Catholic church. - which is not that common in a Buddhist country.
I follow the main avenue till I get to Wat Si Muang, one of Vientiane’s most venerated temples, as it is considered the guardian of the city. There’s an Angkorian-era pillar upon its ground and it’s a popular belief that if you circle it three times and make a wish, it will come true. I’m not sure if I saw the pillar or not, but the temple itself is magnificent.
Right behind the temple stands the statue of King Srisavanvong.
I’m now walking along the canal, visiting ‘lesser’ temples. Just because they’re not as historically important doesn’t mean they have nothing to offer.
Street vendors hang plastic bags that spin in circles above the food. It pushes away the flies and keeps the meat ventilated.
Getting back on the main avenue, I see on the map that I’m only a few blocks away from the COPE visitor center - an association working to help landmine victims in Laos.
Thanks to a fantastic documentary, I learn about the devastating effects of the US bombing campaign on Laos. I have seen similar museums in Vietnam and Cambodia, but every time I’m shocked about how much these countries have suffered just because the US government wanted something. If you want to know more, look up ‘The Secret War in Laos’…
The museum is filled with contemporary artworks made by survivors and heart-breaking testimonies. There is fascinating - albeit very disturbing – evidence on how the Lao people are still affected today by the contamination of unexploded ordinances (UXO).
Items made out of bomb shell casings – or to misquote a famous movie, ‘How I learned to stop worrying and lived with the Bomb’.
The organisation is doing its best to help anyone with disabilities with prosthetics and rehabilitation. After seeing all this, if you leave this place without making a donation, you have no heart.
For lunch, I come back near That Dam Stupa to go to Pho Zap, that serves ‘the best beef pho (soup noodles) in town’. The place has been open since 1958, apparently. I read about it online and I thought that it would be packed with tourists.
In fact, it’s a simple canteen that seems to cater mostly to locals. The soup was definitely pretty good - and served with refreshing ice tea, peanut sauce and some fresh mint leaves.
Right outside, a lady is selling local snacks. I have one of those green tea waffles. They’re good, but also very greasy. I’m glad I have a tissue to soak up all the extra oil.
Colorful tuk tuks waiting in line.
This is the National Cultural Hall. It’s as imposing as it is highly decorated. But it doesn’t seem to be a monument you can visit.
Another temple and I’m back at Fruit Heaven – cranberry + strawberry + yogurt. I also see the owner for the first time. I didn’t talk to her but she did look like the person in the picture. Especially when she uncovered her charming smile. Which was all the time.
Another temple for the road. I think this one is called Wat Mixay, or Wat Ouh Teu. I’m getting confused after seeing so many on the same day.
I don’t really know what a Buddhist monk’s life is in all Asian countries. But in Thailand and Laos, they ride on motorcycles, take pictures with mirrorless cameras and play games on their phones. They’re certainly not adverse to modern technology.
Back for another sunset. But this time, I’m gonna watch it from an elevated bar on the riverside. I come 1h early to secure a table with a good view of the beach. In the meantime, I can practice portrait photography from my vantage point.
Look carefully. Do you see the group of monks? Of course. Now, did you notice anything else?
Yep. That guy. I have no idea where he came from. He buzzed around for a while and he left as simply as he came‌
He definitely didn’t go unnoticed.
After a while, a musician started to play. To listen to his song, go to: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxFyNWnK9Ic&feature=youtu.be
For dinner, I went to Makphet Restaurant. It’s managed by Friends International, an aid organisation whose benefits go to charity. I’ve been to another one of their restaurants in Cambodia and they have excellent food. Prices are higher than usual, but it’s for a noble cause – not true love, though… On the menu, a red chili icon indicates the spicy dishes. A good idea. I make sure to choose one that doesn’t sound risky – banana leaves salad with fried pork. It was so spicy that I thought they gave me someone else’s order – and I know about spicy: I live in Sichuan. But I checked and they just said ‘it’s just the chili pepper inside’. Seriously??
I tried eating the salad, but I stopped halfway through. Surprisingly, the salad itself wasn’t that good anyway. Other customers seemed to have a good time, so I guess it was just bad luck. I paid and I left. No reason to make a fuss. At least some of the money will go to charity.
My most expensive meal in Vientiane was also my worst. The irony‌ I get some cheap street food instead –including BBQ meat on a stick, BBQ chicken, and a delicious coconut ice cream filled with jellybeans.
Now, I have seen all the major tourist sites in Vientiane. Tomorrow is my last day in the city. I’m going souvenir hunting‌
Day 15
The Hunt
I start the day with one of these baguette sandwiches they sell on the street. They put lots of stuff in them: onions, coriander, lettuce, pork, sliced tomatoes, carrot, cheese, pâté… It’s a nice, filling breakfast for the road.
Today is my last day. I hope to find souvenirs for the whole family. Since the Night Market is not that interesting, I’ll try the morning market instead. It is huge. One part is located in the basement of a shopping mall, the other across the street.
They sell all kinds of stuff: textiles, bags, jewellery, silk, enbroidery, electronics, appliances, handicrafts‌ But you can tell that the standards are pretty low. Once, I picked up a silk scarf and it almost fell apart in my hands.
I buy some accessories and a couple of key rings. But overall, I feel that if you’re looking for quality goods, this is not the place to come.
Instead, I look up online the most reliable stores in Vientiane for souvenir shopping. Some of them will try to sell you cheap knock offs while others operate on fair trade basis, supporting local women and hill-tribes, by selling handmades articles. These are the ones I want to buy from.
One of these shops is the ‘Monument Books’ bookstore. But they’re not only selling books. They have a whole bunch of fine souvenirs that I’m interested in. Including traditional music, sturdy magnets and handbags. I thought I would have to spend the whole afternoon hunting, but this place had almost everything.
I bought the remaining presents from a woman who had set up her shop on the street. I could tell right away that the fabrics she was selling were of the best quality. No need to look any further. The hunt is over.
I come back to Fruit Heaven for the very last time. I’ve been here every day for 4 days and always sat at the same table. If I didn’t have to leave tomorrow, I would have become one of the regulars. I thought about having lunch here (it’s about 2pm). When I saw they had mango and sticky rice, I didn’t think twice…
New fruit juice. Banana +Passion fruit + ‌spinach Slimy, yet satisfying. The food was truly heavenly. I’m so gonna miss this place.
Hard to believe, but true. Thailand is only 1km away... as the crow flies. Technically, it’s a bit further, since you need to go to the Friendship Bridge and then cross the Mekong.
European bakeries, Laotian flag, Chinese lanterns, and nearby Thailand. The feel of Vientiane in one picture.
While I was out enjoying my cake, a guy with a disability (he could hardly stand up) came up on this small bicycle-like vehicle to beg for money. I gave him some and he left. The funny thing is that as soon as he got on his bike again, he turned on the radio - that was playing some old techno – as loud as he could and drove away with the beat. I had seen him a few times riding in town, always with the music blaring. He must be one of those special NPC that you meet at random times.
For my last sunset, I had the idea of going back to the top of Patuxai Monument. It could be a spectacular view. Unfortunately, the door to the top is already locked by 5.30pm. This is so dumb. I’m sure they would make a lot of money (I forgot to say that you have to pay to get to the top) if people could admire the sunset from the roof of the monument. Oh well, I’ll just take a few pics from the ground then.
For the way back to the riverfront, I get one of my only tuk tuk rides. I’m just too tired to come back on foot. The thing is that I had asked around how much they wanted to bring me to Patuxai and they had first announced 50 000kip -the price to go to the airport (a 15min drive outside the city). By just walking away, I had managed to lower the price at 20 000kip. But I walked to the monument anyway because I don’t like when drivers try to con me. This was a 15min walk. Not drive.
But now, I know the fair price to come back to my starting point – 20000kip. I find a driver waiting next to the monument and tell him my price. He asks for more. I don’t budge. In the end, I got my ride at the right price. For dinner, I decide to come back to Ray’s Grille. Not for a burger this time, but for a baguette filled with beef, onions and cheese. Soooo good…
This is it. My last night in Vientiane and the end of my trip for this year. Not much to do but walk around and enjoy the night breeze and the far away lights.
Having fun with the moon. ‘This is no mine. It’s a tomb’.
I follow the boulevard till I get to the statue. But this time, I pass it and keep walking. I have never been that far on foot, but the streets are well-lit and it’s only one long avenue. No risk of getting lost.
If I walk a few km further, I’ll be on the Friendship Bridge. I can see it all lit up between the two countries. But honestly, I know my legs won’t bring me that far. I decide to head back to the night market.
Having a coconut ice cream, outside a real temple, next to a fake elephant. What a unique and memorable way to conclude this adventure‌
EPILOGUE: 4 years ago, I bought a colorful bag like this one in Thailand. It was very useful to carry the extra stuff that wouldn’t fit in the backpacks. I brought it every time I travelled somewhere for a while. But it cracked open in Vientiane. So, I found a similar one during my stay in the city (picture). This one didn’t even make it to the airport. One single journey and it got ripped open… I had to pay someone at the airport to wrap it up entirely to make sure the content would fly safely until I arrive. Also, you’d think that Laos being right next to China, the trip back home wouldn’t be that long. It took me 2 flights (both on time, fortunately), one night in a hotel, one train the next day, and a bus ride to finally get back home. Now, I’m exhausted, with more than 1000 pics to sort out. Good thing I don’t start work right away.