From Nepal to India Feb-March 2015
Part I - Nepal
Chapter 2 – Annapurna
Day 4 One of a Kind
I wake up at 6am. My guide is already waiting downstairs. His name is Shiva – like the god. We walk together to a bus station and get on a tourist bus. It’s a good thing we arrived early – I have my own seat, while other tourists are squeezed in the back at the last minute. We’re going for an 8h ride.
In the bus, I’m reading two books. The first one is a compelling short story I read once in high school and want to read again. At 10am, the bus stops near a market place. Most people in the bus raid the stores. But I prefer to stay behind and do some stretching.
Well, thank god for the stretching. Because I would have not seen that otherwise. My shoe is falling apart and I’m starting the trek tomorrow !! But as one hitch hiker’s guide once said: « Don’t Panic ». Shiva tells me I’ll probably find a place to fix it up in Pokhara.
My second book is “Flash”the fascinating – and disturbing - autobiography of Charles Duchaussois, a French writer who went deep into drug addiction, during a trip in Nepal and India, at the zenith of the hippie movement.
Since I’m also travelling to these two countries, I figured it was the perfect time to read this one.
2pm. The bus stops in Pokhara. The city is still crazy with motorbikes, but much more laid-back. Traffic fume has been replaced by fresh mountain air, and dusty backalleys are now nice-looking streets with large sidewalks.
We get to our hotel. It’s a nice one for sure. In my room, I have two double beds for me alone. I don’t like all this useless comfort however, it seems that they just wanted me to pay for an expensive room. And yes, I’m told that the price for the night (included in the contract) is 30$. That’s too much for someone like me who usually stays in hostels on a budget. It upsets me a lot.
I’m sure they’re having a nice commission by choosing this place. Also my room is supposed to have a view on the lake. So far, all I can see – and hear – is a construction site. They definitely gave me the best room, knowing I’m leaving early tomorrow…
Anyway, the most important now is to fix my shoes. Which we do right away by asking a cobbler on the pavement.
When my shoes are fixed, Shiva gives me a tour of the lakeside. The Phewa Lake is the second largest lake in Nepal. It’s possible to get in the lake by renting boats.
But you can also simply walk, or cycle, around the lakeshore, to enjoy the superb views of the surrounding mountains.
After the tour, we come back to the hotel. So far, Shiva has been with me all day and I’d like to stay alone for a while. I’m still angry about the expensive room and I get a feeling I should have been more careful with the contract details. I ask him to leave me alone for the night and that we’ll see each other in the morning.
It’s hard to read his reaction but he leaves. After a while, I feel guilty. I shouldn’t have pushed him away. I find him downstairs and offer to buy him a drink. I wanna thank him for helping me fix my shoes.
We go to a restaurant nearby and order two daal bhats – lentil soup, rice and vegs. This is the most common meal in Nepal. Sometimes, that’s all they eat. Shiva tells me he eats one for lunch and one for dinner. Every day. It’s not really tasty but quite filling. And you can ask for a refill of vegs, or rice if needed. We have a nice conversation. He’s 27, he comes from a large family of 8 siblings, and he’s been a guide for seven years. Despite his thick accent, his English is pretty good. He is also quite knowledgeable regarding his country’s culture and environment.
After dinner, Shiva goes back to the hotel. I stay behind for a while hoping to find an internet cafe. But the power is off now and won’t be back before a few hours. I wander around for some time and go back to my room.
I look at my feet, I have blisters already. I must be the only guy who breaks his shoes and gets blisters BEFORE trekking for a week ! Yep, one of a kind‌
Day 5 Up the Ante
Waking up is a challenge in itself. My phone didn’t charge because of the power cut all night. I get a quick breakfast and I make sure the bags are packed carefully because I’m leaving most of it in a locker for when I come back. First, we walk about 10 minutes and hop on a local bus for a short drive. I’m actually sitting right next to the driver – something that in the West would never happen. And then, we take another bus for 2 hours.
This one is a public bus. For me, it means that I’m too tall to stand up without bumping my head. To sit down, I have to squeeze my legs and bend my knees to get inside.
I’ve suffered bad roads before. But this one is definitely in the top 5. Since there’s no luggage compartment above the seats, I have to carry my bagpack on my knees. As the bus fills up, I have to push myself against the window. And the road itself is just pure evil.
It’s so bumpy that my water bottle and some of my medecine fall out of my bag and roll on the floor. For a second, I manage to grab them with my feet, but the next moment, they’re gone. Of course, there’s no space to reach them with my arm either.
Now, remember that we’re driving uphill. On broken roads. Close to the edge of cliffs. And that doesn’t help me to relax at all.
But then, I realize that these people take the bus every day to get to work. And when I see the conditions they live in, I definitely get a new perspective.
After two awful hours, the bus stops at the village of Naya Pul. This is where we start walking. Already, we’re going through the village and across farms. Right away, I grab a stick that’s lying on the mud. It’s gonna be quite useful later.
Cool but foggy weather. My backpack feels heavy, but I’m fine. When you go trekking, you can hire porters to carry all your equipment, or you can take care of your belongings yourself. I ‘m carrying my own stuff.
Soon enough, we arrive at this clearly inconspicuous bridge. That’s where we have to register for our trekking permits.
At first, we’re off to a very rocky start. It climbs right up and I can already feel my legs. It’s gonna take a while before I manage to walk at my normal pace.
The whole area is under environmental protection, so I’m sure there’s gonna be some memorable pictures to take during the trip.
So, here I am. February in the Annapurna mountains. I have no down jacket, no sleeping bag and my only trekking gear is a pair of worn out boots and a walking stick found in the mud.
Two weeks ago, all I was doing, was playing video games all day long, during school break.
I’m definitely taking things to a new level.
Our trip officially starts low in the valley, among local farms and villages.
But quickly, the peaceful looking rice fields give way to dusty tracks. We have to be aware of jeeps and trucks along the way.
11am. We stop at a restaurant on the way. I can get one drink and two dishes (starter+main course). Everything else, I have to pay for.
I’m already really tired. I need solid food and sugar to keep going. I go for some kind of cheese omelette and ginger honey tea.
My attempt to draw a local farmhouse.
After one hour, we’re back on the road.
After some time, Shiva points out our next destination. The village of Ulleri on the other side of the mountain. We’re clearly not there yet.
The only thing is that to get to the village, you have to climb up some steps. Not many, mind you. Barely 3900, according to Shiva. It’s really, really hard . And it takes a really, really, really long time to get to the top. Especially with a heavy bagpack.
Sometimes, we have to share the way with caravans coming down the mountain.
Also, better watch out where you sit down to take a break.
I have to take it slow. One step at the time. But when I look at the locals, I always think : ÂŤ if these guys can do it, so can I Âť. And I keep going.
On one side, there’s me. Barely walking straight.
And on the other, there’s Shiva, who jumps around like he’s walking on air, and gets his phone calls on the edge of a cliff…
Fortunately, we arrive at Ulleri before sunset.
Shiva shows me to our hotel. No more walking for today.
The room is really basic. Two small beds and… that’s it. I didn’t ask for more, though.
They have funny « fish lockers » and you have to pay to get warm water for a shower.
On the way, I’ve met two other backpackers from the US. They’re staying at the same place, but we don’t talk very much.
Long before dinner, I wash my clothes outside and hang them on the roof, hoping for a quick dry. I’m not the only one doing it, but my sweater is quite thick - it may not be dry before tomorrow.
At nightfall (5pm), they light up a stove inside. I bring my clothes to help with the drying and I sit down to sketch. At 8pm, all of them are still dripping. I can’t sleep in them, of course. Can I wear them tomorrow ? Shiva tells me I’ll be ok wearing only a T-Shirt… And then he mentions that we’ll be walking on ice after tomorrrow. Nobody even mentioned ice before today. I don’t have ice grips. In the agency, they said that the temperatures would prevent ice to form on the way. That’s the last straw. I’m off to bed.
The beds are tiny and the room is freezing. But since I’m not sharing it, I put both beds together and use both blankets for the night. I’ll be fine.
Day 6 Higher and Higher
My clothes are still not dry. I try for some energy breakfast, I feel like I’m gonna need it. I get some sickening sweet oatmeal and lemon tea. I’m not in the best mood so far.
The view, however, is awesome. I put my jacket over my backpack, so it can dry along the way, and we’re off.
We start right away with… more steps. Obviously.
This is the best time to start walking. If we wait too long, the sun will be beating hard on us.
8.30. We stop for a moment in another village. There’s some nice looking trees around.
Back on the road. The view is great, unfortunately I spend most of my time looking at my feet. You have to constantly watch out for sharp rocks, stone steps, and cow dung.
We’re doing quite good. The sun is now high up in the sky, and we’re entering a deep forest. Perfect timing.
10am. After crossing the waterfall and climbing a few hundred steps, we arrive at another restaurant. We either stay here for lunch or keep going until 12. Shiva tells me that they need at least 45min to cook the food. So, we’d better stay here.
I love how the restaurant just appears to us, out of nowhere. One moment, we’re climbing hard, deep into the woods, and the next, the whole forest is behind us.
Daal Bhaat and mint tea
We walk about two hours more, and finally arrive to the village of Ghorepani. The place used to be a rest stop for caravans, where traders could find water (pani) for their horses (ghora).
Our lodge for tonight is a large one. Much more comfortable than the previous one.
From my window, I can see the whole village.
There’s some time before dinner. I decide to take a look around the village.
Oh, god. That’s ice, isn’t it? And tomorrow, we’re climbing even higher.
In the village, I find this tiny stupa and decide to draw it. The enigmatic face on top represents «The Eyes of Buddha ». I guess that the sleepy eyes symbolise his state of meditation. Of course, since I’m drawing right on the street, many villagers come to see me. Which is a nice experience.
It’s getting colder by the minute now. Back inside, I hang my clothes above the stove once again. They should be completely dry soon. But instead of joining others, I go for another drawing. I sit at a table and look at the mountains on the horizon.
For dinner, I get onion soup and tuna pizza. Shiva tells me I should get some daal bhaat if I’m really hungry. He was right. I’m still hungry after my meal. I’ll go to bed early instead.
Actually, at 7pm I’m already in bed. Or rather in beds, because once again I have to put two together to get a minimum of space. Tomorrow is going to be intense and I want to make sure I get enough sleep.
Day 7 Cool Runnings
Let’s see… - 1 pair of warm boots - 2 pairs of socks - 2 pairs of pants - 3 T-shirts - 1 Sweater - 1 Windbreaker -1 Jacket - 1 pair of gloves - 1 Scarf - 1 Lip balm - 1 Mask - and 1 Winter hat Ok, I think I’m ready !
I wake up at 5am. From Ghorepani, you can hike uphill for about 45 min (a pretty steep hike ) to get to Poonhill. It’s a perfect viewpoint to admire the sunrise, or the sunset over the mountains. Needless to say that by these temperatures, only the bravest ot the braves get up that early to see the sunrise‌
I follow Shiva and other tourists in the dark. Some of them have a flashlight. It’s cold, it’s steep, and… is that ice I’m walking on right now ? I do hope not. I’m quite happy, however. Although I’m walking really slow (for my own standard), I keep passing other hikers, with better trekking gear. I’m not that bad after all.
At the top, I feel like I’m gonna throw up. Above 2500m, the concentration of oxygen in the air starts to drop. It means that less oxygen can reach your brain when you breathe. This is part of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) and it’s not something to be taken lightly. But for me, I know it’s just the fact that I’ve been climbing a few hundred of steps once again.
Poonhill… They should have called it « Spoonhill » - because when you’re finally up there, they can scrape you off the floor with a spoon.
Everyone’s freezing their asses off. The guy who decided to open a tea shop at the top of the hill knew what he was doing.
I ask Shiva if we are in the Himalayas at the moment, because the whole geography confuses me. He tells me that the Himalayas officially start at 3000m. It means yes !
Feb 10th 2015. I am officially walking in the Himalayas. The news fills me with pride.
At 7, the sun finally rises. Watching the first rays of sun touching the top of the mountains all around, you really feel like you’re part of something special
At the top of the hill, there is a watch tower you can climb on to have an even better view. But the crowd up there and the icy wind strongly suggested that I was better on the ground.
Going down is so much easier. It’s so steep that all it takes is to lift your foot and let gravity work for you. It still takes us 30min to get back to the hotel.
And that was ice, damn it!
Panorama pictures
7.40. Back at the hotel for breakfast. From my room, I can hear raining but there’s no rain. I realize that it’s the snow on the roof melting at sunrise.
Around 9, we leave the hotel. Everyone is wearing windbreakers and down jackets. Even the locals. But I’m fine with wearing only short sleeves.
There’s ice and snow along the way. But it’s mostly away from the main path No worries there.
Shiva and I left the hotel after the main group but we seem to be the fastest walkers around. Eventually, I’m the first at the top of the hill.
Well, made it to the top. There was some ice, sure, but it wasn’t that b‌
…. aaaaargh! We climbed all the way up in bright sunlight, so we were fine. But now, we’re going down in the shade. The snow hasn’t melted at all.
Some parts are bearable. But others are horribly slippery. It’s not easy to find your balance when you carry a large bagpack. We’re mostly walking along the edge of the mountain and there’s barely enough space for one person at the time.
It doesn’t look that bad from the picture. But one foot at the wrong place, and it’s bobsleigh time…
3000 meters high, in the snow. Wearing only a T-Shirt and a sleeveless jacket. Am I a trooper or what?
I don’t have much experience in trekking, so falling, for me, is part of the learning process. But when the guy you follow, who’s been a mountain guide for 7 years, starts falling too, you know you’re in for a treat.
Ironically, when the snow has melted, it’s actually worse. It’s sometimes even more slippery. But it’s also an annoyingly sticky puddle.
The first time I fell, I knew it was bound to happen. But after watching my every step for the past hour, stretching forward to catch some branches, bending over to keep my balance, and falling over a dozen times, I kinda lost my sense of humour.
Ah, my favorite part. White means unstable snow over dead wood. Grey means extremely slippery ice. On the far left, the edge, with the river 10meters down below. What do you do now?
Around 12, we finally manage to get out of here.
The last bridge before civilization. But don’t underestimate how icy it is, or your next move will be your last.
As soon as the ice stops, the steps are back. But these ones lead us to a restaurant (with another daal bhat).
For the afternoon, we’ll walk alongside the edge of the mountain. And I can see pretty far down.
We may be walking along frequented pathways, but Shiva tells me that we are in the wild. Most animals come out at night and hide during the day. Still, yesterday I saw a jackal, and today we see this monkey.
The icy part is far behind us now. It doesn’t mean it’s getting any easier, however. Now, we have to go all the way down the mountain, cross a bridge to get to the other side, and then climb all the way up.
All these ups and downs on stone staircases are hard on the knees. And my bag keeps bouncing forward against my neck. This is no picnic. But as usual, I just suck it up and keep on walking.
1.30pm. We’re now in the village of Tadapani. We rest for a while. However, this is not our last stop. We could stay here for the night but, there’s pretty much nothing to do around.
Instead, Shiva tells me we should keep going till we get to Ghandruk. It’s a 2 hour hike. We’d better get started then…
Fortunately, the next part is much more relaxing. For a while, it’a a nice forest trail, where I can finally walk at ease, at a good pace. After this morning, it’s pure bliss. Of course, there’s always the odd rogue stone, or some nasty tree root to trip over.
But then comes the part where we have to go deep down into the forest again. The path is all wet and muddy, so we have to step on large stones, one foot at the time. It would have been easier if they had been flat. Or just rectangular. But most of them were triangular shaped – just because it’s more fun that way.
Shiva points to our next stop. We’re not far at all… as the crow flies.
On the way, we stop to watch birds in the trees. I’m not sure what they are – maybe kingfishers.
3.30. Exactly two hours later (Shiva really knows his stuff), we finally arrive in Ghandruk. We stop at an impressive looking hotel, where I can finally take off my bag. My shoulders hurt so much that I feel like I got hit with a hammer. I literally can’t move a muscle anymore. I lie down for a while.
Nepalese cottage, view from the restaurant.
I manage to find an internet cafe nearby to check my emails. I’ve sent a message to Quinn a couple of days ago, the day she was supposed to fly to India. I haven’t heard from her since. Today, still no news. I get worried.
I’ll have some really bad dreams tonight. Can’t sleep at all. But it may also be the fact that I ate 3 parts of daal bhaat, tonight…
Day 8 How Green was my Valley
Bad dreams all night. I don’t have much of an appetite. Ironically, the owner makes me his best breakfast. As soon as they’re open, I come back to the internet cafe to check my emails again. A message from Quinn, at last ! I’m so relieved. I feel so much better already. Now, I can eat.
Ghandruk is a nice little cottage. But every building is in construction right now. Shiva tells me that with the tourist season and all, they try to build more restaurants and lodges, to give the locals some work.
You’re welcome
Today is a pretty easy day. We’ll be walking down, all the way back to the valley of Naya Pul.
On the way, I buy these pretty paintings on leaves.
There are more people living in the valley than in the mountain. It means we also meet more domestic animals along the way. Mules, donkeys, horses, or even water buffaloes. No yak however, they live much higher.
Also, interestingly, they all seem to have the exact same kind of dog in these mountains. Probably all related somehow, I guess.
For a long time, we’re mostly walking along flat, dusty roads. We can see the whole valley down below. It’s perfect to look at the villagers farming the land.
11.30. We stop for a quick rest in a village. Two little girls come to me. They show me their palms and start shouting - « Chocolate? chocolate ? »
I give them my orange. Then they start shouting the Nepali word for orange. I only have one. They try : -«Biscuit ? Biscuit? » They must do it for every tourist that crossses their village
12pm. We stop at Syauli Bazar for lunch.
No daal bhaat for me this time. I need sugar. My whole meal is a banana pancake and a large cup of masala (spicy) tea.
At lunch, I was sitting behind a group of English speaking people (no idea about their nationality, though). They clearly had paid a lot of money to an international agency to be with an organized trekking tour.
All they talked about was their hairstyle , and how much their equipment cost. I also overheard the word ÂŤ hipster Âť. Man, people can be so shallow sometimes.
Shiva asks me if I want to take a quick dip in the river after lunch. No, thank you. I’m already swimming in my own clothes.
After lunch, we walk for two hours more. This is the best I’ve ever been during the whole trek. Shiva told me once that he ‘s never met a guide as fast as him. For a tall guy like me, when most people walk two steps, I only need one. But Shiva is a real cheetah and I’ve always been far behind him the whole time.
Now, it’s different. I can see him walking briskly, almost running. But I’m right alongside him and I’m barely working a sweat.
I even have enough energy to carry on a conversation at the same time, while we pass much slower hikers along the way.
He tries to teach me some Nepali, I give him some Chinese. I also learn that he got married last year -an arranged marriage, as it’s the tradition. His wife is now 20 and leaves with his parents while he’s away.
He also talks about his dream of opening his own homestead, so he can be a tourist guide during the day, and invite the trekkers in his home at night.
Ha! I’ve seen this bridge before. That means we’re back where we started.
We’re in the village of Naya Pul, where we’ll stay for the night.
There’s no hotel around here. Most tourists get the bus right back to Pokhara. We share a tiny room in a family homestay – the best they can offer.
Shiva asks me if I’m too tired. No, I’m quite fine. He wants to show me something down the road (a dam, or a bridge, not sure yet) and get a beer together in the next village. He tells me that it’s not more than a 10min walk. All right, then. Let’s go.
Shiva is a great guide in the mountains. But once he goes out of his territory, he gets a little confused apparently. We have to walk for at least 40min before getting to the village. And after a whole day trek, my legs hurt quite a bit already.
We also have to watch both sides of the road constantly for crazy bus drivers. Yeah, I’m talkin’ to you, pal ! You were definitely not going under 30 ! I hope they’re not school buses, at least.
Thankfully, I can feel the Eye of Buddha watching over me from above.
After a while, we arrive at the dam. It’s still under construction.
To get closer, we have to cross a bridge guarded by heavily armed soldiers. They watch me really carefully. I don’t even see them blink once. They are Gurkhas, one of the toughest fighting forces in the world. You don’t mess with these guys…
From the bridge, I can see some fishermen in the river.
Aound 3.20, we finally get to the village. I feel like a fakir – walking on nails. We sit down for a beer in a tiny store, kept only by a little girl.
Shiva shows me pictures of his wife and his wedding. I tell him that I feel sorry for her. Waiting for him to come back home, all year long, must be difficult.
He tells me that in some circumstances, a husband can change wives. But only if she’s ugly.
What ?? I’m not sure I got the last part right. No, I didn’t. « She’s ugly », said with a thick Nepali accent, becomes She is agree…
Never underestimate the power of thick accents.
He also talks about his experience as a guide with his worst customers – a couple from Taiwan who would never stop complaining. According to him, as a trekker, I was « nice », « educated », « strong » and « strange ». Strange ? – Yes, when you make very careful baby steps on the ice… ah, ah I like the description.
When we finish our beer, it’s time for the kids to come back from school. Many say hello and wave. I’m a rarity to them. Here, we are away from the tourist area. It’s a small village village that foreigners usually drive through doing 85 on a bus.
We hop on a local bus with the lowest ceiling ever – bumped my head twice – and drive back to Naya Pul.
Our restaurant is across the road from a police post. I sketch a little and get dinner (daal bhaat)
Police post, Naya Pul.
The funniest part is that there are wild sheep and goats in the woods. As soon as the police officers leave the post, they come down and start munching on the flag. Rebels with a cause, I suppose.
Shiva hands me my trekking permit. My name is mispelled, my birth date and passport number are wrong‌
My journey in the Annapurna ends here.
My faithful walking stick, found in a mud puddle on the first day.
My only trekking equipment for the whole trip.
Nightfall is at 6. I’m in bed at 7, exhausted.
Day 9 The Bus from Hell
I hear raining all night. The road is going to be very slippery… Still, when I get outside at 6am, it’s all dry. But I keep hearing the rain. And it’s not the river for sure. Turns out, it’s the water flowing underground in the village. Quite an eerie sensation.
Today, we have to get the bus back to Pokhara. I know it would be a really bad idea to get breakfast before the ride, so we only sit down for a cup of masala tea. 6.30. The bus is here.
It’s a small, uncomfortable, cramped, local bus. And the ride is bumpy as hell. Most of the road is half destroyed, half in construction. Also, in Nepal, traffic is supposed to drive on the left side, but in reality, most drivers choose the side that is most convenient for them. It means that it’s not uncommon for buses to face incoming traffic at full speed – on dangerous, narrow, and slithery mountain roads. Besides, most of the other vehicules on the road are large trucks or other buses. And it’s a constant battle of the horns to make sure the other one will brake first. The best part is that, in most of Asia, it’s actually recommended to honk your horn to warn others that you’re coming. But here, honk honk sometimes means « Watch out !», or « I’m the king of the road! », or « Hey, where did you learn how to drive? Grand Theft Auto?», or even « Out of my way or I’ll push you over the cliff ! ». Tons of fun…
But it’s just a matter of being used to it, I guess. I saw a toddler sleeping through the whole thing, so why should I complain?
At 8, we’re back in Pokhara. Shiva’s brother is waiting for us and drives me back to my first hotel. I’m gonna sleep here tonight , because the price is included in the contract. After that, I have to find a cheaper place if I wanna stay longer in town.
Shiva is now leaving. I won’t see him again. He told me once that his father was sick and forced to stay at home. So every month, Shiva pays 1500rupees to buy him some medecine. Shiva is definitely one of the most honest people I’ve met during my whole trip, so I knew he had no reason to lie to me about his father.
Therefore, even if his fees are included in my contract, I decided to give him 1500 rupees in cash, for him to buy the medecine this month. He smiles and he leaves.
(At the time of writing, all Nepal has suffered terrible damages from an earthquake. Shiva’s home has been destroyed.
I wrote a review for him on this website and I took a screenshot, to advertise his trekking skills if one day someone wants to hire him.)
I get my breakfast in the hotel and a – lukewarm – shower. Checking my stuff, I realize that I’ve lost my cap and that my shoes are ruined. Everything else seems ok. Not too bad for a four-day trek in an unknown country.
I spend most of the day browsing shops for souvenirs. I find one store run by two old ladies, who let me rummage around in a large box full of old postcards. I also manage to find a nice room in a guesthouse for tomorrow.
Finally, I enter a trekking store and use my bargaining skills to buy a new cap for almost half its price.
Once again,my boots are repaired. This time, I have to get the inner sole replaced.
For lunch, I try a vegetarian Indian restaurant, recommended by Loney Planet.
I have one day left in Pokhara. What should I do ? I read that there’s a way to rent a kayak and I love the idea.
I check a place that rents one, agree on a price. I tell the owner I’ll be back in the morning and rent one for the day if the weather is clear.
Although I’m careful with my budget, I’ve been eating daal bhaat for days now. I need some real change. Tonight, I dine at an expensive Japanese restaurant to celebrate my trek. I’m excited about the kayak. I can’t wait for tomorrow…
Day 10 Waterworld
My last day in Pokhara. Lot of stuff to do, with a very tight schedule. No time for breakfast yet. I get up at 8 and go directly to my new place. I also ask the owner for a pair of beach sandals.
I get some Danish pastries on the way, and go straight to the kayak renting store on the lakeside. When I arrive, I’m the first customer there. The guy’s just opened his shop. We both grab my kayak by each end and carry it to the lake. I get inside, and the owner tells me that I should be careful because river kayaks handle differently than sea kayaks (which I have done before).
Indeed, as soon as I start paddling, I see what he means. I paddle straight but I keep going in circles… It’s really annoying at first. But after a while, it gets better.
Also, when I went kayaking last year, in Thailand, I was afraid to lose my camera. This time, I feel much more confident. And I decide to bring it along.
Family Home Hotel
Peace Eye Guesthouse
Kayak
I know I don’t need the life jacket, but it’s the policy to wear one.
Also, I don’t like to tempt fate, and the water looks pretty cold…
With Pokhara behind me, on my left (below), and on my right (above)
At first, I just hang around the shore and watch paragliders soaring through the air above me. The sky is amazingly clear and you can see the Annapurna mountains on the horizon. I manage to capture the paragliders in front of Mount Machapuchare (Fish Tail) - one of the most recognizable mountains in all Nepal.
Once I find my bearings, I paddle towards a tiny island to see what’s there.
It’s actually a temple. Tourists rent boats to get there and observe the monks during the prayer.
I paddle around it, but I don’t stay long.
My next objective is to get to the World Peace Pagoda.
I get there around 11 and leave my kayak near some kind of resort. I only keep the waterproof bag with me.
Now, I’m walking.
30min of walking uphill on hard stone staircases. And I thought I had left all that behind me‌
As I get higher, Pokhara becomes a blurry mass of colours on the horizon.
Getting close, now.
Yep, here it is.
For the story, the pagoda was constructed by Buddhist monks from a Japanese organisation, to promote world peace.
It is perched high above the lake, and gives incredible views of the whole valley.
Around the pagoda, there are three huge statues of the Buddha, in different positions.
From here too, I can see paragliders and other Delta Wings zooming over the hill.
For lunch, I brought nut bars and some fruit juice. Just enough to keep me going. I decide to sit on the grass, under a tree, and draw . I don’t have my sketchbook with me, so I use a tiny notebook instead.
Still, I attract many visitors, who even take pictures of me. Even one of the monks comes to see me. He looks at my drawing, smiles, and says: « good ». Of course, it’s not even close to good. But it felt nice anyway.
There was a « silence! » sign in front of the pagoda. But since it’s a schoolday, everyone had the pleasure to see a class of kids, running and screaming everywhere.
Also, there was this beautiful dog, that I petted and fed some of my lunch. He stayed so close to me that someone even asked me if he was mine.
Ah, ah! Hilltop! I mean, uh, It’s funny, you know… Because, uh, we’re at the top of a hill… Get it?
I’m back on the kayak at 2pm. I have two choices. Paddle back to Pokhara (I have to be there at 5 at the latest) Or go the opposite way, to the very end of the lake.
The wind in my hair and Nightwish in my ears. That’s what I call having a good time !
From the stupa, one guy told me that it takes 1 hour to get to the other side of the lake, if you’re fast. Surprisingly, it doesn’t take me more than 30 min to reach it.
On land, there’s absolutely nothing there.
However, I’m now closer to the paragliders’ landing site.
Barbarian on holiday
Since there’s nothing there, I keep going along the edge of the lake. I am close to the villages of fishermen.
Before I realize it, I’m right next to the landing site. To get closer, I’d have to leave the boat and walk on the shore.
Pokhara in a nutshell.
Rich foreign tourists having the time of their lives, oblivious to the locals, who work hard all day long to get some food.
It’s 4pm and I’m quite far from the town now. But I have to be back before 5.
Time to use some elbow grease, Matt !
I paddle as fast as I can, and 45min later I’m back at the lakeside.
It’s 5pm. At 8, they cut the power in the whole town.
I have many errands to make before they shut down, including pick up some laundry, exchange money, find a bunch of gifts, look for a dress for a friend (I won’t find it, unfortunately), and go online to check stuff.
Everything is located along the main street, but each place is far away from the other. There’s a lot of running involved.
Eventually, all my tasks are done before 7.30. Time to relax…
For dinner, I get a French crĂŞpe in a restaurant. Tasty, but they should really learn the difference between sweet and salted dough when they make them.
Then I go to another place for some excellent Italian gelato.
And I finish by a large fruit shake, back at the hostel.
All things considered, today was an awesome way to leave Pokhara on a high note.
Tomorrow, back to Kathmandu.
And then, India‌