THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
CELEBRATING WEST SIDE
AGRICULTURE A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO
The West Side Index & Gustine Press-Standard
INSIDE Profiles of Local Producers County Ag Values Water Outlook and Much More!
2 | CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Craven Farming grew from humble roots CROWS LANDING - A West Side farming operation which started with row crops has evolved and grown to become one of the region’s leading ag endeavors. Today, Craven Farming Co. encompasses almond and walnut orchards in the Crows Landing and Firebaugh areas, a thriving transplant business and a walnut huller which is one of the company’s more recent additions. The company traces its lineage back more than 40 years to the early 1970s, when owner Grant Craven started growing row crops - primarily tomatoes and beans - on leased grounds. Today, more than four decades later, his son Todd Craven represents a second generation in the business and a core of dedicated, long-time management employees keep the business not only rolling along but continuing to expand.
Grant started in the early 1970s in the Crows Landing area, with ambitions of growing. And he did just that. “When I was 22 or 23 I leased my first piece of ground. I had acquired a couple of tractors by then,” he recalled. “I was a tenant row crop farmer for a long time.” Tomatoes and beans were among the staple crops in those early years, in part because they were a good rotation....with each crop leaving behind nutrients that the following thrived upon. Grant seized upon that as an opportunity in an area where dry beans were the predominant crop. With cannery tomatoes becoming more popular, he went to bean growers with a proposition to essentially share-crop tomatoes after the beans had come out of the field. “Fifty percent of a toma-
to crop made them more money than a bean crop.... and then they discovered that if they planted beans (after the tomatoes) they did better than ever,” Grant shared. “That might have been the key to how we were able to grow. That was a deal that really got us going, we had a lot of partners.” Necessity led to innovation, he added. “When you’re a kid and you don’t have a lot of money but you have a lot of energy, you have to figure out how to make things grow because you can’t do it on your own,” he reflected. The ag landscape of the West Side has changed dramatically since those early years. “We had a big crop mix,” Grant stated. “If I remember right, we grew 13 dif-
See CRAVEN | PAGE 3
The management team at Craven Farming Co. includes, from left, Kayleen Kloberdanz, Mike Crinklaw, Adalia Munoz, founder Grant Craven and his son Todd Craven.
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THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
CRAVEN
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 2 ferent crops. Spinach, peas, lima beans, string beans zucchini, bell peppers and alfalfa were among the many crops grown at the time. Today, he noted, with the closing of freezer plants and other trends, the local crop mix has shrunk tremendously to primarily include a few staple commodities. A number of milestones marked the evolution of Craven Farming. In 1978, the company put up its first nursery buildings on the Highway 33 property Grant had purchased four years earlier. “We started that for our own needs and to serve other growers,” Grant explained. “That has kind of been our method of operation. If we have a need of our own but the facility does not justify the invest-
ment, we do our own work and do work for others as well.” Craven Transplant started with a dozen greenhouses, and has grown to 32 through two subsequent expansions. That branch of the business primarily starts tomatoes for other growers and is active only a few months of the year. At one time, Grant said, the greenhouses grew eight to 10 different crops and were busy for up to 10 months a year. Adalia Munoz, one of three long-time management employees, has overseen greenhouse operations since the start. Her responsibilities include tracking 20 or more varieties being started for clients. “Everything has to be kept absolutely straight all the time. You can’t send somebody the wrong variety,” Grant commented. “When she puts it on the truck, she knows it is right.”
Two major shifts in the Craven Farming operation came in 1989, as the company took its first steps into tree crops and started farming in the Firebaugh area. “I had worked down there doing custom tomato harvesting, and I just loved it,” Grant recalled. “To this day, Firebaugh is my favorite place. The fields are larger, and soil quality is superior to anything anywhere.” But the area is not without its drawbacks - including water challenges which manifested themselves in a drought not long after Craven Farming expanded into Firebaugh and continue to this day. “I was used to farming here in Crows Landing where water was basically free. It had no value. Down there it was completely opposite,” said Grant. The situation was such that he was never able to
See CRAVEN | PAGE 4
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4 | CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Merced County ag values plummeted in ‘15 The value of agricultural commodities produced in Merced County in 2015 dipped nearly 20 percent from the previous year, a reflection of falling prices in numerous production categories. The annual report produced by Merced County Agricultural Commissioner David Robinson placed the value of ag commodities at nearly $3.58 billion - a decrease of 18.9 percent from 2014. Commodity price declines and water availability were factors in production and value de-
creases in 2015, the most recent year for which an ag report is available. Figures reflect on-farm values of ag commodities produced in Merced County, and do not take into account production costs. Milk and almonds remained the county’s leading commodities despite sharp declines in value from 2014. Milk production in Merced County was valued at $895 million - down from $1.44 billion in 2014. The milk priced reported in 2015 were the lowest in the past five years, the
document noted. The county’s 2015 almond crop was valued at $552 million, down from nearly $791 million the prior year. Following are Merced County’s top 15 ag commodities for 2015. Prior year rankings are in parentheses. 1) Milk, $895 million (1) 2) Almonds, $552 million (2) 3) Chickens, $364 million (4) 4) Cattle and calves, $357 million (3) 5) Sweet potatoes, $194 million (5)
6) Tomatoes, $161 million (6) 7) Corn silage, $141 million (7) 8) Eggs, $123 million (9) 9) Alfalfa hay, $100 million (8) 10) Turkeys, $68 million (13) 11) Nursery products, $58 million (11) 12) Cotton, $54 million (10) 13) Wine grapes, $53 million (15) 14) Silage, $52 million (12) 15) Miscellaneous vegetables, $40 million (16)
CRAVEN
Water, said ranch manager Mike Crinklaw, who has been with Craven since 1994, represents the single largest management decision in the operation. About six years ago, Craven Farming added a walnut huller in the Crows Landing area. “It was a necessary evil,” explained Todd. “Crows Landing has always had quite a few walnuts, and there were only a couple of hullers.” By building their own huller, the Cravens were taking ownership of a critical step in the process of getting walnuts from tree to market. “You have to harvest them on time, and get them hulled on time. When that couldn’t happen any more quality was going down so we decided to take the jump (with the huller),” Todd told Mattos Newspapers. Walnuts, Grant said, will ideally be harvested, hulled and dried within a 24-hour period. Other growers have turned to Craven Farming to handle their walnuts. “We couldn’t afford to build that plant just for our own use. It was not a good financial investment, but an investment to protect our crop,” Grant commented. Craven Farms typically provides custom harvest-
ing and handling as well as the hulling, and will deliver to buyers. “They entrust us with their crop,” Grant said of walnut clients. Munoz now splits her time between overseeing the greenhouses and the huller. The core management team is a huge factor in the success of Craven Farming, noted Grant. In addition to Crinklaw and Munoz, bookkeeper Kayleen Kloberdanz is a valued long-time employee. “This is a good honest company that cares about its employees,” said Kloberdanz, who joined the company in 1980. “Grant not only respects his employees but has always been there to help them through situations.” That family tradition will continue with Todd taking over the operation in time, she noted. Todd will face his own challenges, father and son agreed, most notably the sea of regulations which farmers must now navigate. One example, Grant said, is the sustainable groundwater management legislation coming into place statewide. “In a couple of years we are going to have to submit plans to manage groundwater. At some point after that the implementation
will begin. This is going to be a monster,” Grant commented. “The higher level water attorneys in the state of California will tell you that this will have the biggest impact on ag of anything that has ever happened.”
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 3 fully farm the ranch he had leased to grow row crops, but that did not deter him from continuing to explore opportunities in the area - which led to the next transition for the operation. Grant purchased an aged almond orchard in the Firebaugh area, and the transition to trees was soon on in earnest. “It made half a crop, but the price of almonds tripled,” he recalled. “That was a big boost, and pure luck.” That led to a transition within the company from row crops to orchards. “We started buying open land in Firebaugh and planting almonds on it. Using modern tree spacings and modern irrigation on that good soil....it was big production,” Grant related. Today, the Firebaugh holdings of Craven Farming include some walnuts and cherries but remain predominantly almonds. “Our acreage has shrunk in the recent past due to water shortages,” Grant explained. “We have been interested in expanding our land ownership in Crows Landing because of all the uncertainties in Firebaugh.”
Through the years, Grant reflected, he has always treated agriculture as a business that not only had to pay its way but allow opportunities for growth. Behind that businessfirst approach, though,
was a passion for the fields and orchards. “It was a challenge to get here. My life has been fortunate in every single way,” Grant commented. “I really like (farming). I really like stirring up dirt.”
CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 5
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Water outlook brightens for Del Puerto district Challenges remain for federal water agency Growers in the Del Puerto Water District which runs along Interstate 5 from Vernalis to Santa Nella may soon have their first significant allocation of surface water in several years - but that welcome development will not wash away challenges facing the district. Anthea Hansen, the district’s general manager, said she expects the Bureau of Reclamation to announce the allocation for the federal district in late March - which is more than a month later than the proclamation is typically made. A wet winter, flowing rivers, massive snowpack and full reservoirs bode well for the district in comparison to the recent drought years. Del Puerto received zero water allocation in 2014 and 2015 and a meager 5 percent of its full contract amount last year. Growers survived on supplies they had in storage, pumping groundwater and purchasing expensive water on the open market. As much as 25 percent of the district’s irrigable land has been fallowed due to lack of water in recent years, Hansen told Mattos Newspapers. The outlook for 2017 is far brighter. Hansen said she anticipates a 45-50 percent allocation at a minimum, and said she has seen estimates placing the allocation as high as 70 percent. “Even if it stays dry from here on out, I think we will get to (45-50 percent),” she commented. “With the exception of 2011 we have not gone above 50 percent since 2007. Our allocations have been fairly dismal for about a decade.” A number of factors go into determining the allocation.
This year, the heavy flows in the San Joaquin River are expected to prove beneficial to Del Puerto. “It appears that the demands of the Exchange Contractors (such as the Central California Irrigation District, which anticipates a 100 percent allocation) are going to be met for quite some time from the San Joaquin River,” Hansen pointed out. “Normally, the demand has primarily been met by pulling from San Luis Reservoir. It means that Reclamation should theoretically be able to issue us a higher allocation because of high flows in the San Joaquin. There is more certainty that the run-off content (from melting snow) is going to be very ample through the spring and summer.” The federal portion of San Luis Reservoir recently reached capacity for the first time in several years. Hansen said she believes that the Bureau of Reclamation has delayed its allocation to gather the latest information which may impact the amount. “There has been such a variety of changed circumstances over the last couple of months,” Hansen reflected. “The bureau, I think, wanted to be very cautious about being able to issue the highest allocation possible based on all the operational factors. They wanted to wait for the March 1 snowpack survey to have some level of certainty on the summer temperature management plan for Shasta operations as well as having a better handle on how long the San Joaquin River could meet some other demands that are normally served by San Luis Reservoir.” While the water is welcome, the timing poses challenges. “The orchard crops are fairly consistent in their needs. Those orchardists will be able to take very good care of their trees this year with surface
San Luis Reservoir is full for the first time in six years, which is one factor cultivating optimism that the Del Puerto Water District will receive its most significant water allocation in several years. water of good quality,” Hansen explained. “The problem is with the open ground and the ability of these operations to ramp up on such short notice. They need contracts, seed, equipment and labor. We are hoping this change will allow people to get back into some of the annual crops. It depends on each operator’s ability to put that ground back into production quickly. It is not that simple.” Another concern, Hansen noted, is that because the reservoir is full some of the 38,000 acre-feet of water Del Puerto growers have stored in San Luis
Reservoir may be converted back to project supply if not used before a carryover period ends. “If we can beneficially use that water before the carryover period ends, it would not be subject to loss. We are seeing irrigation get started. I don’t think it is going to be possible for us to evacuate all of that water before the end of the carryover period, but time will tell.” A 50 percent allocation of surface water would be just over 70,000 acre-feet, Hansen said. Del Puerto Board Member Jim Jasper, a Newman almond grower, said that
would equate to about a foot and a half of water per acre. While welcome, he said, that amount still falls well short of the needs of many crops. Almonds require at least three feet of water through the course of a growing season, Jasper noted. While 2017 may bring a respite, Hansen said, the district’s long-term planning efforts envision receiving an average 35 percent water allocation. “There will be some good years, and there will be some very tough years,” she predicted. An innovative project now under construction
will help temper some of the uncertainty surrounding Del Puerto’s water supply. The North Valley Regional Recycling Program will deliver treated wastewater from the cities of Modesto, Ceres and Turlock to the district beginning later this year. That project will reliably give the district a reliable volume of water roughly equivalent to 20 percent of its full contract amount, Hansen has previously told Mattos Newspapers, and will provide water to West Side wetlands as well.
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THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Financing helps keep wheels of ag turning Farm lenders are critical behind-the-scenes partners who help keep the wheels of agriculture turning. Clients turn to lenders in the farm credit system with a variety of financial needs, explained Stephen Moitozo of Gustine, a vice president and lending manager for American AgCredit. Loans issued through the association help row crop farmers put annual crops in the ground, finance orchard plantings, allow facility improvements to enhance efficiency, and help those in the ag community meet an endless list of needs. Moitozo is a 25-year veteran of the ag lending industry, and has seen both agriculture and the financing network evolve significantly over that time. The farm credit system was established more than a century ago to provide financing to rural American, he noted. At one time the system included more than 1,000 associations throughout the nation, Moitozo said, but through acquisitions and mergers that number is now below 80. In the agriculturallyrich San Joaquin Valley, financing helps farmers produce commodities ranging from almonds to zucchini. “We’ve got everything, which as an ag lender is nice. You get to see everything and be a part of everything,” Moitozo explained. Flexibility is essential in working with clients, he emphasized, as loan amounts and needs vary widely from one to the next. A dairy operator may need a seven-year loan to increase herd size. A loan to plant an almond orchard might have a 20-year repayment, with three years of interest only. A row crop farmer might take out a loan in March which is due in September. “It is very individualized. We want to strike the
right balance in terms of what they need, because every one is a little different,” Moitozo commented. “It is not one size fits all.” In terms of operating loans, he added, one general rule of thumb is that the payment is due when crops are harvested. “With a dairy you would want payments on a monthly basis because they are getting a monthly check. With a farming operation, you would tie it to the harvest of the crop, which is typically in the fall,” Moitozo said. The organization extends credit for capital improvements as well as operating expenses. One popular trend, Moitozo said by way of example, is financing to install solar power systems on dairies, which have a high energy demand. “We are doing a lot of solar. Dairies can benefit quite a bit from it,” said Moitozo, adding that the investment can have an immediate positive cash flow for the dairy operation. Ag lenders look at a number of factors in evaluating credit requests, including balance sheet, liquidity, equity, repayment ability and collateral. “There is not one thing that offsets the others. It is all of them coming together,” Moitozo told Mattos Newspapers. “It is looking at the individual or the company, their history, their knowledge.... their character, basically.” Commodity prices and water availability are among the factors which are taken into consideration during the financing process. While agriculture in general has seen a decrease in commodity prices in the last two years, dairy in particular has been hard hit by volatile market swings. Helping producers through tough times is part of the process, said Moitozo, adding that more than 50 percent of his $100 mil-
lion portfolio is in dairy. A disastrous 2009 was a low point for the dairy industry, he recalled. “They hadn’t forgotten how to dairy. It is just the economics associated with it. They woke up losing money, and they went to bed losing money, no matter the decisions they were making,” Moitozo related. “That is when you need to have equity to fall back on. We did plenty of financing to reinstate some working capital and take care of payables to help people get through. We knew it was not going to last forever.” The ag environment across the board has grown more challenging in the past two years. “You have to worry about price, yield and expenses, and make sure that those numbers work out so you can take care of your living expenses, taxes and debt service,” said Moitozo. “Ag is in a tougher situation than it was a few years ago. The numbers don’t work as easily.” He preaches patience rather than panic when times are tough. “The customers we do business with know how to farm, they know how to dairy. They have been in this situation before. It won’t be the first time or the last time,” Moitozo stated. “What they need is a lender who understands that, and who provides good information and answers questions thoroughly.” American AgCredit operates a number of specialized programs as well, including one which finances growers who produce commodities sold directly to the consumer and another geared toward part-time farmers with small operations. The organization also has a program which finances the purchase of 4-H and FFA livestock projects. “That is a big program for us. We might do 200 to 300 of those a year,” explained Moitozo. “It
is about the kids making some money, but also about learning responsibility in the financial aspect.” American AgCredit operates as a cooperative. Its clients become shareholders who are paid a dividend and who elect the board of directors. “Our customers do a good job. They are stewards of the land and want to do what is right,” he reflected. “We have relationships that span generations. We have customers who have been with us for 30 days, and some who have been with us for 30 years.” Regardless of the length of the relationship or the size of the loan, Moitozo emphasized, the ultimate goal is to help each client succeed. “Our goal is to provide financing to farmers and ranchers....to serve agriculture,” he concluded.
Rural Gustine resident Stephen Moitozo is a lender with American AgCredit.
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CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 7
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Collective effort needed to increase water storage There is no issue more vital to agriculture and to our local economy than water. Unfortunately, over the last several years, we have endured a natural drought, as well as the looming possibility of a regulatory drought imposed by the State Water Resources Control Board. In the last few months, we also have watched water from the heavy rains flow into the ocean in the absence of the water storage infrastructure necessary to capture and store it. With an economy primarily dependent on agriculture, we are acutely aware that the stakes could not be higher. The way the state of California manages water is broken. We have failed to invest in our aging water infrastructure and have vested too much power into un-
ADAM GRAY elected bureaucrats who develop plans that value fish more than clean drinking water for our school children. For too long, our state has failed to take the action necessary to secure our water future. The state has not built a new dam since the 1970s. In the same time, our population has almost doubled. Recently, we have been reminded of the key role that dams play in storing water during times of drought and controlling flooding during times
of too much rain. Dams also provide safe drinking water for millions of Californians and clean, renewable energy in the form of hydropower – vital considerations in light of our growing population. Investing in our water infrastructure requires urgent attention and action. In November 2014, California’s voters overwhelmingly endorsed Governor Brown’s water bond, Proposition 1; however, to date we have developed no new water storage. Proposals such as Temperance Flat and Sites Reservoir are on the table, but we must ensure that projects like those do not get held up in the bureaucratic red tape that so often hampers development across our state. The 2013 Water Plan update for the state estimat-
ed that between 3 and 12.6 million acre-feet per year could be required to meet increased urban and agricultural water demands by 2050. It is time we set clear goals and develop a plan for how we are going to address our water storage needs. This year, I introduced Assembly Bill 1369, which would require the state to increase statewide water storage by 25 percent by 2025 and 50 percent by 2050. The bill would require the Department of Water Resources to develop a strategy and implementation plan to achieve those goals. I encourage you to join me by supporting this legislation and sending a message that we will no longer tolerate inaction when it comes to investing in our water infrastructure. As a community, we
know that we are capable of sending a strong message when we work together. Over the last year, our community has come together to oppose the State Water Resources Control Board’s plan to increase unimpaired flows from the Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced rivers. More than a thousand people showed up to the public hearings in Modesto and Merced to voice their opposition to the board’s plan. Thousands more signed petitions and sent in written comments to the Board. Elected officials, irrigation districts, educators, and private individuals all stood up to oppose the plan and recommend more balanced alternatives that would promote environmental goals without decimating our local
economy and drinking water quality. While the board will not render a final decision on the plan for several months, as a community we should be proud that we were able to demonstrate such unified opposition. We should continue that momentum by collectively demanding investment in water infrastructure and increased water storage. For rural communities like ours, our needs are overlooked too often in favor of other parts of the state. Working together is our best opportunity for ensuring that our needs are met. Adam Gray represents California’s 21st Assembly District, which includes all of Merced County and a portion of Stanislaus County.
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8 | CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Ag importance, impact cannot be overstated The ag industry’s impact on California’s 10th District cannot be overstated. With over 400,000 irrigated acres and 4,700 farms, our district contributes $6.6 billion to our state’s annual output. Equally impressive is the commodity variety our area produces – over 100 unique products. Ensuring the success of our agriculture sector ensures the success of our economy as a whole. Last fall, I held the first of many district roundtables with local farmers and stakeholders focused on the top issues challenging the agriculture industry right now: Water, labor and immigration, trade, regulations and taxes. As we all know, water availability has historically been the priority for the industry in California. While the recent rains have been a much-needed reprieve, long-running
JEFF DENHAM concerns over the future of our water are not going away. Permanent solutions will require more storage, both above and below ground, flood control, streamlined regulatory reviews, easier water transfers, early payoff of reclamation projects, increased predator suppression to assist the survival of native fish species and improved fishery management programs. I was proud to co-author the WIIN Act last Congress, which was signed into law in December and included many of these priorities.
This Congress, I’ve reintroduced the NEW Water Act, which establishes a water project financing pilot program for projects like new reservoirs, flood control, below ground storage projects, recycling and desalination projects. We must build more supplies for the next generation of farmers and rural communities. In addition to water storage and delivery, local farmers have also experienced over-regulation, most notably through the Environmental Protection Agency’s Waters of the United States (WOTUS) rule. With costly rules that have little to no measurable benefit, it has become more burdensome than ever to even run day-to-day operations, and the state legislature has only piled on more costs and restrictions. I have supported several bills in the House
thank you farmers...
to roll back federal overreach, including WOTUS, which the EPA is now reconsidering at the direction of President Trump’s Feb. 28 executive order. While water is certainly our most prominent and pressing concern facing the Valley’s ag community, labor and immigration, trade, regulations and taxes are equally important. Also a high priority is the upcoming Farm Bill. I have long pushed for comprehensive immigration reform that can ensure a reliable, legal workforce for our farms to address the heightening labor crisis. The current H-2A visa program is riddled with delays, complexities, expensive housing standards and caps that are not reflective of industry needs. Short term fixes aren’t enough. A major overhaul is needed, and the industry must be at the table. We
must also work to close the local skilled labor gap by supporting career and technical education (CTE) that have an ag focus and embracing new technologies and methods that will strengthen job appeal to younger generations. Finally, I am a returning member to the House Agriculture Committee, where our key focus will be on a timely re-authorization of the Farm Bill in 2018. As legislative hearings and negotiations begin, it is vital that any opportunities for Central Valley deliverables are actively explored early. I have requested that a committee field hearing be held in our district to ensure House Ag leadership can have a first-hand look at our region’s unique needs. For our district, protection of vital conservation, trade and specialty crop programs, including
crop insurance and pest/ disease management, will be a priority. The issues facing our farmers and ranchers are significant, but I have full faith and confidence in their ability to adapt and thrive. I am proud to serve as a representative for the most productive agricultural region in the nation, and I will fight for our needs and against the cumbersome federal bureaucracy to keep farmers and ranchers doing what they do best. Congressman Jeff Denham represents California’s 10th congressional district and is the chairman of the House Transportation and Infrastructure Subcommittee on Railroads, Pipelines and Hazardous Materials. He also serves on the House Committees on Agriculture and Natural Resources.
Saluting West Side agriculture We would like to acknowledge our local farmers and their families for the tough job they do, and the many contributions they make in improving the quality of our lives.
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CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 9
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
New direction: Martins traded fruit trees for poultry GUSTINE - A rural Gustine couple has found a niche in the poultry industry after leaving a family fruit tree operation. Mike and Cynthia Martin raise chickens for Foster Farms in two poultry houses near Gustine, where they have resided since 2006. At any given time, each house may contain up to 18,000 chickens which are eventually destined for processing at Foster Farms’ Livingston facility. Poultry was new to the Martins when they moved to their current home. Mike had been working with his parents on a fruit tree ranch near Santa Nella. “They decided to retire and sold the ranch. I had an orchard that I sold and turned that money over to buy this place,” he explained. The Martins wanted to stay out in the country and
involved with agriculture, they explained, and the new ranch fit the bill. “Mike knew nothing about chickens,” Cynthia recalled. “Being responsible for live animals is a lot different (than tending trees),” Mike related. “There is more pressure. It is a living being.” He learned the ins and outs of the trade quickly, however, and the Martins settled into the poultry business. He initially grew for Central Coast Fryers, but has been affiliated with Foster Farms for the past eight years. The Martins will have each flock of chickens for 45-47 days. They arrive as newly-hatched chicks, and grow to nearly six pounds before being picked up by Foster Farms. “Once they leave here they go right to the Livingston plant,” Mike ex-
plained. “They process them and they are shipped out within a day.” The chicks are kept in one half of each poultry house for the first 11 days before the remainder of the facility is opened. “It is easier to keep them warm, and you only have to heat half the house,” said Mike. Temperature control is a critical consideration in raising poultry, the Martins emphasized. His goal is to be able to raise the chickens to six pounds, Mike told Mattos Newspapers. “That is pretty tough to hit,” he acknowledged. “The trick to getting the birds to that kind of weight is temperature control. The first week they are at 90 degrees, because you don’t want them to eat just to stay warm. As they
See MARTINS | PAGE 10
Mike and Cynthia Martin raise chickens for Foster Farms on their ranch near Gustine.
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10 | CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE
MARTINS
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 get older, they want the temperature to be cooler. After the third week, you have to start worrying about keeping them cool.” Heating the houses in the cooler months is no problem, Mike said, but the summer heat poses a problem. “Their body temperature is 103 degrees. You can feel the heat coming off of them in the summer time,” he noted. Fans and misters are used to help cool the barns, and curtains can be raised for ventilation. To ease the stress on the chickens, slightly smaller flocks are raised in the hot summer months. The Martins’ poultry houses are “old-school,” compared to newer more automated structures, they acknowledge, but the buildings serve their purpose well. When they switched
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
ranch.” In addition to the standards set by Foster Farms, the operation is inspected by the American Humane Society The chickens are just one product of the operation, Cynthia noted. “We sell manure to local farmers who need it for their fields,” Cynthia said. “It is a whole cycle.” When a flock of grown chickens is collected for processing, the Martins have 14-18 days to prepare their poultry houses for the next group of chicks. That process includes cleaning out the house, making any necessary repairs and bringing in fresh rice hulls for bedding, setting up the facility for the process to begin anew. “The most work is cleaning out after they take them,” Mike stated. In addition to looking after the chickens with the help of a hired hand, the Martins have three acres of walnuts and Mike serves on the Merced County Farm Bureau board.
over to Foster Farms, the Martins also installed a newer auger feeding system salvaged from poultry houses which were being dismantled. “We took it apart and put it back together here,” Mike said. “It is a sweet little system, with hardly any problems at all. The other (chain-driven) system I had was a nightmare.” Foster Farms provides the chickens, the feed and the services of a field representative who visits on a regular basis. “They want a quality bird,” Mike remarked. “They have their customers who are demanding as well.” Standards set by the company include a low mortality rate and a high feed conversion (the ratio of pounds gained to feed consumed). “They take bio-hazards and contamination (risks) very seriously,” Cynthia pointed out. “You can’t have backyard chickens, and you are not supposed to visit another chicken
Each of the two houses on the rural Gustine ranch of Mike and Cynthia Martin holds up to 18,000 chickens.
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CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 11
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Green almonds find specialty food niche NEWMAN - The almond as most know and love is a ubiquitous, versatile nut featured in countless recipes, candies and snack forms. But long before the familiar late-summer harvest ritual begins in West Side orchards, a relatively small volume of almonds in the early stages of development are handpicked at Stewart & Jasper and shipped to celebrity chefs, upscale restaurants and private connoisseurs with a taste for green almonds. The niche-market delicacy has a limited but loyal following who incorporate green almonds into a variety of recipes, explained Jason Jasper, company vice president. Jasper said he first became aware of the potential for a green almond market about 12 years ago, when renowned dessert chef and food author
Priscilla Martel inquired about the company’s interest in supplying chefs with the product. “My first reaction was ‘What are you going to do with green almonds?’,” Jasper acknowledged. But as he researched the product, he learned the green almonds are a Mediterranean delicacy which were often soaked in a brine or in milk, rolled in sea salt and eaten. The green almonds are also featured in a wide variety of recipes, from soups and salads to main courses and desserts. “A lot of Mediterranean people remember them as kids but haven’t had them for years,” Jasper explained. “We have quite a following.” He said green almonds have been described as having a grape-like tex-
See GREEN ALMONDS | PAGE 12
Jason Jasper checks the development of nuts on an almond tree. A fraction of the almonds in Stewart & Jasper orchards are harvested green for consumption in a niche market. The green almonds are popular in high-end restaurants and among celebrity chefs.
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GREEN ALMONDS CONTINUED FROM PAGE 11
ture with a fresh flavor similar to that of cucumber. Green almonds are, quite literally, just that. Jasper said that green almonds are available for about an eight-week period in early spring. The earliest green almonds picked are in a gelatinous state and can be consumed whole - hull included. Jasper anticipates almonds in Stewart & Jasper orchards will begin reaching that stage around April 1. During the second stage, the kernel has firmed up and the hull must be peeled away. The firmer variety is most popular among the followers of green almonds, Jasper told Mattos Newspapers. “There is probably about a four-week window for each of those stages,” he explained. “The latest we ship the firm ones is usually the first week of June.” The green almonds are picked to meet demand. Like cherries, the green almonds are picked and processed by hand. The procedure includes cleaning the almonds and re-
moving any leaves and packing them in clam shell containers which are then wrapped in ice and shipped by second-day air. “We will pick that morning, and clean, pack and ship them the same day,” Jasper said. “The consumers are very conscious of quality, so we take extra steps to package them properly.” The process is not without its challenges. “It is very labor intensive. We may try to go to younger orchards (to harvest) because they are not having to reach up,” he explained. “If we have applied any spray, those are off-limits. We do have organic orchards, so we can go to those if we need to.” Many of the green almonds are bound for the kitchens of celebrity chefs and upscale restaurants across the nation - with most going to the East Coast. “We found our niche by focusing on the Midwest and East Coast, and catering to these upscale restaurants where they are willing to spend a little more to get the high quality,” Jasper told Mattos Newspapers. “We have also sold to upscale markets.” Green almonds from
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Stewart & Jasper were in Trader Joe’s stores for a time, he said, but did not catch on. “They did not educate the consumer,” Jasper said. The green almonds have landed on the plates of world leaders. When Queen Elizabeth visited the United States, Jasper said by way of example, the executive chef of her Washington, D.C., hotel ordered green almonds for a specific dish he was making for the occasion. Jasper said the company typically ships 5,000 to 6,000 pounds of green almonds each year. The amount of almonds picked green is minuscule compared to the overall production, he added, and does not make a dent in the annual yield of mature nuts. But the product does draw attention to Stewart & Jasper and the various lines offered by the company. “It is an attention-getter that can lead to increased demand for other products,” he remarked. “I think we will definitely continue to do it. There is enough interest that we would never stop selling them.”
Tiny green almonds are considered a delicacy in some circles.
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CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 13
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Agriculture needs a reformed immigration system A functional immigration system is crucial to the future economic success of the San Joaquin Valley, state, and nation. Our current immigration system, if you can even call it a “system,” is broken. With each passing day the status quo is getting worse, not better. The United States is a nation of immigrants past, present and future. The diversity that comes from having thousands of immigrant communities is part of what makes the United States the greatest country in the world. When individuals from around the world come to live in America, they add value by sharing a strong work ethic, innovative new ideas, cultural perspectives and traditions. Our families are all a part of that American story. Regardless of one’s political ideology, San Joaquin Valley residents can agree
JIM COSTA that a strong agriculture workforce, which is mostly made up of undocumented immigrants, is vital for the success of the industry. Let me be clear. I am not advocating for an undocumented workforce. I am pointing out that it is the reality and one of the many reasons why we need to fix our current immigration system. The San Joaquin Valley’s agriculture industry provides a perfect illustration of both the economic and human impacts of America’s broken immigration system. It is not only our economy that is on the line
because of current immigration policies. People’s lives are at stake. Families have sacrificed literally everything to build a life in the United States in hopes of achieving the American Dream. The agriculture industry is the backbone of our San Joaquin Valley. It is our main economic producer, it is ingrained in our culture and, simply put, agriculture is our way of life. I know this because I am a third-generation farmer and my family has been farming in the Valley for over 100 years. California’s farmers and farm workers, who grow half the nation’s fruits and vegetables, are some of the hardest working individuals you will ever meet. It is one of the many reasons why California is the nation’s agricultural leader, producing about $47 billion in agriculture products in
2015. Eight of the top 10 agricultural counties are in the San Joaquin Valley. Over 237,000 jobs in the Valley are directly related to agriculture. While the economic benefits of agriculture are profound, we must never forget the people who make it all possible. Seventy-five percent of California’s agriculture workforce is undocumented. The individuals laboring on farms throughout the state are hard working men and women who come to the United States to build a better life for themselves and their families. They are paying taxes. Their children are attending local schools and receiving resources specifically for migrant families. They are our neighbors and friends. They are part of our San Joaquin Valley’s fabric. Deporting hard working individuals who are positively
contributing to our Valley’s way of life and splitting up families is wrong. Congress and the administration must work together to comprehensively reform our nation’s immigration policies, which would include an earned pathway to citizenship, strengthened border security and support for visas that bring skilled workers to the United States. For example, the H2A Visa program allows individuals from other countries, like Mexico, to come to the United States for seasonal agriculture work. Ensuring that individuals can obtain a visa to work in the United States is vital for California’s and the nation’s agriculture industry. Our region’s ability to produce and provide access to healthy, safe and nutritious fruits, vegetables and nuts is a national security issue. During five years of
record-breaking drought, the California agriculture industry’s ability produce food was in jeopardy. Now, the biggest issue facing agriculture this year is broken federal immigration policies that can be fixed. We also need to fix the broken water system in California. I urge the Trump Administration to recognize a potential agriculture labor shortage as the national security issue that it is and work with Congress, both Democrats and Republicans, to enact policies that will fix our immigration system. This is a bipartisan issue and working together we can get something done and ensure our Valley’s most vital industry has the workforce it needs. Congressman Jim Costa represents California’s 16th District in the House of Representatives.
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(including meats, hulls and shells) fell $108 million to just under $1.3 billion. In addition to lower prices for many commodities, the total ag value was impacted by the fallowing of 20,000 acres of farmland due to the drought. Following are the county’s top 10 commodities for 2015, the most recent year for which an ag report was available. Numbers in parentheses reflect the 2014 ranking for each commodity listed.
1) Almonds (all), $1.3 billion (1) 2) Milk, $648 million (2) 3) Cattle and calves, $350 million (3) 4) Chickens, $304 million (5) 5) Walnuts, $172 million, (4) 6) Silage (all), $163 million (6) 7) Fruit/nut trees and vines, $129 million (8) 8) Eggs, $73 million, (9) 9) Almond pollination, $63 million (10) 10) Turkeys, $62 million (7)
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The value of agricultural commodities produced in Stanislaus County fell by 12 percent in 2015, according to the county’s most recent ag report. Stanislaus County farmers and ranchers produced commodities valued at nearly $3.9 billion in 2015, according to the annual report submitted by Agricultural Commissioner Milton O’Haire, down from a record high of nearly $4.4 billion the previous year. The values reflect gross
CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 15
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Olive oil calling brought couple to West Side GUSTINE - A calling to craft olive oil led a San Jose couple to the West Side, where they have seen their orchard thrive and their business evolve through the years. Anne and Paul Piccirillo tend to about 420 trees on their South Hunt Road property south of Gustine, a fully established orchard which yields the olives that are processed into oils marketed under the Athena’s Gift label. The opportunity to pursue Anne’s dream of producing olive oil led the couple to their current ranch, which was planted in walnuts at the time. “I wanted to make my own olive oil. It was as simple as that,” she related. “It wasn’t the housing prices, or the adventure. I wanted to make olive oil.” Reading a magazine article a few years prior about brothers who were producing olive oil in Marin County initially piqued her interest. “I remarked on what a simple thing it is,” she said of olive oil. “It is amazingly simple, but it gives so much. I thought that if I ever got the chance I wanted to do that.” Prices for even a half acre were prohibitive in the outskirts of the Bay Area, Anne said, so she put away her notes and moved forward in life. Matrimony entered the picture when Anne met and married Paul....and her dream was renewed.
“One of the things I mentioned to him is that a lot of marriages that last a long time have something pretty big in common. It keeps the lines of communication open,” she recalled. “Paul asked me what I wanted to do, and after not thinking about it for two years, (olive oil) was the first thing that came into my head.” The Piccirillos found their ranch after a twoyear search. “This place had everything on it we were looking for. That’s how we ended up out here,” Anne said. They brought five olive trees from San Jose, which they planted in the walnut orchard after moving in August 1999, and began the process of transitioning the six-acre ranch from walnuts to olives. Neither came from an ag background, so the Piccirillos learned as they went. Fortunately, they said, olives are a forgiving tree. “Olive trees are very tolerant,” Paul shared. “If we had done almonds, I would have killed them all.” By 2001, the couple had planted the last of their olive orchard. They had enough product to begin selling at farmer’s markets a few years later, and the trees hit their peak production around 2010. “The yields are good. Our trees are starting to settle in at five to six tons per acre, so we are getting a nice yield,” Paul ex-
Anne and Paul Piccirillo replaced walnuts with olives on their ranch near Gustine and have launched a thriving olive oil enterprise. plained. “The orchard as a whole seems to be becoming very stable.” Pruning is critical in the health of the trees, managing consistent production and creating ease of harvest. “We have learned that the pruning is so crucial,” Anne emphasized. If carefully maintained, they said, the olive trees
will produce indefinitely. “They do need to be rejuvenated occasionally, and there is a process for that,” Paul said. Olives are well suited to the local climate, Paul noted, as they favor the heat and tolerate drought well. Nearby wetlands help keep the water table high on the ranch, which has allowed the trees to thrive
even though the couple stopped watering five years ago. “Even if the water table was deep, we could still dry farm,” Paul noted. The trees go into a state of semi-dormancy when the summer temperatures hit 102 degrees. “They can actually shut down their water cycle,” Paul said. “They were
genetically designed by nature for this kind of climate.” The Piccirillos extensively researched olive oils before selecting their varieties. The majority of their orchard is planted in Leccino and Frantoio olives, which
See OLIVES | PAGE 16
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OLIVES
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15 are Italian varieties with distinctive flavor and high oil content. Those varieties are pressed individually, as are lesser quantities of Mission and Ascolano olives. The Piccirillos also produce an oil which blends varieties. On the Piccirillo ranch, olives are harvested each fall by crews using handheld machines. Timing is critical. The goal, they explained, is to harvest when the fruit is half green and half black....a point at which the strong flavor edge of green olives has grown milder, while the oil content is at a premium. “Green olives are like a young orange,” Paul said by way of example. “They have a lot of flavor but not a lot of juice. At the same time, olives left too long on the tree lose flavor. “We want it in drums
by Thanksgiving for consistency of flavor,” he remarked. “If you harvest in October one year and January the next, nobody can trust that what comes out of the bottle is going to be consistent (in flavor).” Their olives are pressed and bottled in Modesto, and stored in a refrigerated warehouse. “The olives are never more than 50 miles from here. Our olives are never on a container ship or a truck. We never have a situation where we are not in direct control of the environmental conditions. It keeps it fresher longer,” they explained. Olive oil is a versatile product which shines in a variety of uses, the Piccirillos said. The product does have a low flash point but can be used in cooking. One suggestion for those first using olive oil is to use the product as a substitute for butter, Anne explained. “That is a good place to start,” she said.
THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
With hundreds of varieties of olive oil available, she added, consumers have countless options in selecting those that best fit their taste and uses. Olive oil is a monounsaturated fat which is high in anti-oxidents. “Generally speaking, olive oil is good for you,” Anne said. Heat is the enemy of olive oil. “If you want to ruin a bottle of olive oil, leave it in your car for a week in the summertime,” Paul stated. The extra virgin, coldpressed oil is marketed at a number of farmer’s markets from spring to fall, and also at retail outlets such as Wolfsen’s in Gustine and Village Fresh in Turlock. The olive truly is the star of the show, the Piccirillos emphasize. “The quality of the fruit is the tree’s doing,” they shared. “You take care of the trees, and they do everything else.”
Anne Piccirillo displays Athena’s Gift Extra Virgin Olive Oil products.
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THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Shedding light on our nation’s farm subsidies At the writing of this column, Merced County Farm Bureau is in full preparation for our largest celebration to date, a commemoration of our 100 years of service held Friday, March 17, 2017. Remarkably, as we read our history, we have noticed how much of it parallels what we see today. For that reason I will focus this column on the misunderstandings of farm subsidies. Routinely, and without knowledge, individuals continue to believe hearsay instead of doing factual research. “Direct” payments were removed from the 2014 Farm Bill. Under the current bill, farmers must decide between Price Loss Coverage and Agricultural Risk Coverage. Dairies can sign up for the Dairy Margin Protection Program. All of these programs fall under the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Farm Service Agency. Under PLC, payments are issued when the “effective” price of a commodity is less than the “reference” price. The effective price equals the higher of the market-year average price or the national average loan rate for the commodity. The ARC-CO program is
BREANNE RAMOS administered at the county level, issuing payments when the actual county crop revenue of a covered commodity is less than the guarantee for the commodity. Under the Dairy Margin Protection Program, coverage extends to catastrophic events and provides various levels of buy-up coverage. The FSA website has more details. Not all crops qualify for these programs, and only a handful of crops grown in our county make the cut. Of the top 15 commodities grown here, silage (corn or oats) and milk qualify. Fruits, vegetables and orchard crops do not (i.e., tomatoes, almonds and sweet potatoes). Many who do grow the qualifying crops have not gotten payment for a number of years. The FSA website lists payouts by state. As of 2015, California growers were awarded a total of $29.1 million ($12.3 million through ARC-CO, $16.8 million under PLC). This is
in stark contrast to payouts in Nebraska ($665.9 million), Iowa ($660.4 million), Indiana ($532 million), North Dakota ($437 million) and Texas ($444.6 million). There were 1,208,392 farms receiving aid nationwide. Of those, only 5,370 were in California. The Margin Protection Program for dairies is structured differently. Dairymen can choose their coverage level. Payments are triggered using a national calculation based on the prices farmers get for milk and pay for feed and it has to be sustained for two months. If payments are below the margin trigger for January but not February, no payment. In 2016, California had 1,181 dairies in the program compared with Wisconsin’s 6,580 and Minnesota’s 2,841. Of those enrolled dairies, 18 received payments in 2016. You might believe payments received by California growers and dairymen are high, but the number of businesses dependent on family farms is far greater. Farmers also pay property taxes that support schools and myriad community services. Some hold the belief that farm subsidies are designed to lower food costs. In reality, farmers
are price-takers, not pricemakers. The prices for any commodity – almonds, milk, sweet potatoes – are set by market conditions, not the producers. And that’s before the costs of processing, packaging and shipping are factored in, not to mention the markup that keeps grocery stores in business. These government programs are essentially a form of insurance. Most
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people insure their homes, cars, health, businesses, etc. Why shouldn’t a farmer insure his or her business against unpredictable weather, invasive pests, disease, drought or flooding? Merced County is a highly productive agricultural area. I urge our community to look past the myths and stereotypes that are at our fingertips and ask the questions of real people here
in our community. I think you’ll find they will be the same people who would help you if asked and welcome you if in need. Farming has never been an easy job. So give credit where credit is due. Breanne Ramos is executive director of the Merced County Farm Bureau and represents 1,200 farm families working and/or residing in Merced County.
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THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
Contradictory regulations further cloud water issues Whiskey is for drinking, water is for fighting over! That famous saying attributed to Mark Twain is a daily way of life in the Western United States. California is always 30 dry days from the start of our next drought. We continually ride the water roller coaster from feast to famine. Dealing with Mother Nature is the predictable part – dealing with a twolegged induced famine is quite another! Californians are in an utter state of confusion. At this time last year we were taking pictures of historic lows in our reservoirs and looking at satellite photos of the brown and green Sierra Nevada instead of white. We were tapping into our ‘reservoir of last resort’ (groundwater aquifers) at a blurring pace. Fast forward to 2017… we are blessed this year with ample rainfall and a fantastic snowpack. The
TOM ORVIS once-empty reservoirs are overflowing. We have so much water that we have to watch much of this precious resource go out to the ocean because we have nowhere to put it. And we have to continue to dump water because the snowpack resting in the Sierra is predicted to be greater than the capacity of an EMPTY reservoir below them! Whatever happened to Proposition 1 in 2014? We the people voted for it at a pace of 2:1. Here is the synopsis for those of
See ORVIS | PAGE 19
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THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017
ORVIS
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18 us who have already forgotten: Authorizes $7.12 billion in general obligation bonds for state water supply infrastructure projects, such as surface and groundwater storage; ecosystem and watershed protection and restoration; drinking water protection; water supply management; water recycling and advanced water treatment technology; and flood control. Hello Mr. Governor – we looked like we knew what was coming in 2017 when we passed Prop. 1 in 2014.
What have we done in the last 28 months? Zero, zip, zilch, nada. The snowflakes got in the way! The meteorological kind fell from the sky and the twolegged version declared the drought as over – in fact they are praying for the rain to stop! Be careful what you ask for. The two-legged kind has also decided we need more regulations and programs for our water resources in California. Most notably are the SED (Substitute Environmental Draft of the Bay-Delta Plan – aka ‘unimpaired flows’) and SGMA (Sustainable Groundwater Management Act). Our state loves political alphabet soup so much
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because it keeps people employed and it confuses the little people. Trust me – this is a soup that makes you more inclined to expel it rather than take it in to nourish your body! We are watching our storage infrastructure crumble beneath the weight of water and lack of attention, whether it is the Oroville Dam spillway, the Clifton Court Forebay or the Anderson-Cottonwood Irrigation District diversion dam. When you don’t need it, why maintain it? Bad idea, Grasshopper! When one does not repair a broken stick it soon becomes the path of least resistance! Many of our farmers and ranchers have
a “rainy day fund.â€? One would think a state with a population approaching 40 million people would have one too. I guess it depends on who the fuzzy mathematician is. In the end, it all comes down to accounting. Back to the wisdom of the “stateâ€?‌ here’s the quick and dirty version. As I wrote earlier the two greatest regulatory mandates our area is facing are the SED and SGMA. To understand them, one must understand from where they were spawned. It all becomes relative and circular in the end. The start was the “California Water Packageâ€? in the five bills of November 2009. They
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were: SB X7-1 – Delta Governance & Sustainability; SB X7-2 – Funding for Water Supply Reliability (by former Senator Dave Cogdill from Modesto that called for an $11 billion water bond - the precursor to Proposition 1); SB X7-6 – Groundwater Monitoring; SB X7-7 – Statewide Water Conservation and SB X78 – Water Diversions and Reporting. First let’s look at SGMA (aka Sigma). SGMA was created in reaction to the drought and the increasing reliance on groundwater resources. The Legislature saw wells being drilled to replace dry wells and unavailable surface water. We all know elected bodies
react better than be proactive in the first place. SGMA mandates the formation of GSPs (Groundwater Sustainability Plans) and GSAs (Groundwater Sustainability Agencies) by certain dates to achieve the mandates of the state. This can be achieved through a joint powers agreement, memorandum of understanding or by an individual agency. In the water world, SGMA will regulate groundwater resources. Stanislaus County has four different sub-basins with two different timelines for compliance. The
See ORVIS | PAGE 20
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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 19 ‘Northern Triangle’ north of the Stanislaus River and the ‘Northern DeltaMendota’ west of the San Joaquin River are under the earliest compliance dates because they are in areas of “critical overdraft” for groundwater resources. The area east of the San Joaquin River bounded by the Stanislaus River on the north and the Merced River on the south is on a delayed schedule because they have less stress on their groundwater resources and they also have existing groundwater management plans. Essentially, if lands lie within an irrigation district or municipal sphere of influence they usually are covered in a groundwater management plan. The areas outside of the districts will now also be covered. Now for the SED – also known as the update of the Bay-Delta Plan or locally known as unimpaired flows. The state is updating the Bay-Delta plan – last revised in 1995. There are four phases to the update. Phase 1 is the re-allocation of water from the Stanislaus, Tuolumne and Merced rivers for environmental concerns; Phase 2 is the same re-allocation for areas in the Sacramento Valley; Phase 3 is
the re-allocation of senior water rights (Pre-1914) in the State of California and Phase 4 is “whatever we didn’t get in Phases 1-3 to achieve our goal we will go get some more to do what we need to do.” Essentially their scientists have recommended that the Stanislaus, Tuolumne and Merced rivers need to allow 30 percent to 60 percent of the water that flows into the main storage reservoirs on these rivers (New Melones, Don Pedro and McClure/McSwain) between February 1 and June 30 each year to pass through the dams and down the river to the Delta. The state is proposing 40 percent as its base number with fluctuations in dry years. Opposing groups still want 60 percent. Does this mean it will happen during that time period? Good question. It is believed the state will measure those inflows and use that water during times of fish migration up and down the rivers whenever that may occur on the calendar. The state math (kind of fuzzy and even challenged by DWR) estimates an increase of a few more than 1,100 fish – Chinook Salmon and Steelhead. FishBio out of Oakdale has been researching these rivers for years and has found the vast majority of the fish in these riv-
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ers each year were raised in hatcheries in northern California and transplanted south. They have also found that roughly 2 percent of native-born fish return. What’s the biggest contributor to this failure you ask? Predator prevalence on the rivers. It’s not lack of flow. It’s also disheartening to see local media try to compare the rivers as “apples to apples.” The Stanislaus River operates under federal guidelines and biological opinions. Its irrigation districts have a water balance that is opened March 1 and closed September 30 – hence the ‘use it or lose it’
mentality when it comes to water transfers and sales. The Tuolumne and Merced are locally controlled and may store as much as they want without impeding on flood control space. One other thought that is convoluted – the state said that the increased flows of surface water will create a “significant and unavoidable impact” of at least a 25 percent increase in use of groundwater resources because local water users will need to pump to make up the surface water deficit. As one local businessperson noted – those numbers were from 2009 and there are a LOT more
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straws in the ground now then there were at that time. So SGMA and SED seem to contradict each other’s missions. And I haven’t even touched on the peril to the Central Valley Project and the State Water Project! As you read this article, the deadline for comments on the SED will have passed. It will now be in the hands of the State Water Resources Control Board – an un-elected, politically appointed governing board over all of California’s water. No worries, they’re from the government and they’re here to help!
Tom Orvis is the governmental affairs director for Stanislaus County Farm Bureau
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Sweet pea soup with watercress and mint
Lemon roasted artichokes with burrata cheese and walnut pesto
By CHEF SANDY SAUTER CIA AT COPIA, NAPA
Ingredients 2 tbsp. butter 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion 5 celery ribs, finely chopped 3 scallions, finely chopped 4 to 5 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced 5 cups vegetable stock 3 cups frozen sweet peas 1 1/2 cups watercress, stems removed 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, packed (save 1 leaf to chiffonade for garnish 1 tsp. lemon juice, or to taste Lemon zest, to taste Salt and pepper, to taste Pinch of sugar Sugar snap peas, julienne, for garnish Croutons, optional, for garnish (see note)
Directions Slowly sweat onion and celery in butter to soften until onions are translucent and fragrant. Add scallions and sweat until fragrant. Stir in potatoes. Add vegetable stock and simmer, covered, until potatoes are soft. Stir in peas, watercress and mint leaves and return to a simmer to warm through, about 2 minutes. Add remaining seasonings to desired flavor. Puree with an immersion blender. Serve garnished with sugar snap peas, mint leaves and, if you wish, croutons. Note: Use a rustic crusty bread to make croutons. Remove crusts, dice, put in a skillet and drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and some mint. Toss over heat until crunchy and golden. Serves 4
This recipe emphasizes the pure flavor of the artichoke: simple and delicious!
By EXECUTIVE CHEF BEN MATTMAN JW MARRIOTT, SAN FRANCISCO
Ingredients Walnut Pesto 1 bunch basil, remove stems 1/2 cup Parmesan 1/4 cup toasted walnuts 3/4 cup olive oil 3 to 4 cloves garlic, crushed Salt and pepper, to taste Artichokes and burrata 12 baby artichokes 1 white onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves (whole) 3 bay leaves 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1/2 tsp. black peppercorns 2 cups white wine Juice of 2 lemons 4 tbsp. olive oil 1 tbsp. salt 1 tbsp. pepper 3 garlic cloves (minced) 3 sprigs fresh thyme 4 oz. burrata cheese (approximately 1/2 of a round, sliced) Optional ingredients for garnish Microgreens Capers Drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar This recipe emphasizes the pure flavor of the artichoke: simple and delicious!
Directions For walnut pesto: Combine all ingredients in a blender until a smooth paste is formed. Set aside. For artichokes and burrata: Bring a large pot of water to
a boil. Meanwhile, clean artichokes, cut off tops and peel off outer leaves. Place artichokes into boiling water, reduce heat and add onion, whole garlic, bay leaves, coriander and peppercorns. After about 10 minutes of cooking, add wine and juice from 1 lemon. Cover with cheesecloth, return to a boil and simmer until artichokes are tender. Remove artichokes from pot, place on paper towel and pat to dry. Slice artichoke in half lengthwise and remove and discard the “choke” (white fibrous hairs and inner purple leaves) with a small knife. Toss in olive oil, salt and pepper. Next, place artichokes in a hot pan and sear. Add minced garlic, thyme and juice from 1 lemon, and place the squeezed lemon into the pan to sear off with artichokes. Once seared, roast in a preheated oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes or until edges are crispy. Remove and serve with buratta cheese, walnut pesto and garnishes such as microgreens, capers and aged balsamic drizzle.
1/2 cup dried cranberries 1/2 cup chèvre 1 cup arugula
Instructions For dressing: In a small bowl, combine vinegar, mustard, garlic and shallot. Add oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. For salad: In a medium saucepan, cover wheat berries with water, add salt and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat until tender, 25 minutes. Drain and cool. In a mixing bowl, toss wheat berries and remaining salad ingredients with desired amount of dressing. Serves 1 to 2
Buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with chipotle barbecue sauce
By SOUS CHEF MICHAEL LETSINGER JASPER’S CORNER TAP ROOM & KITCHEN, SAN FRANCISCO
Ingredients Balsamic dressing 3 tbsp. balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 small clove garlic, finely minced 1 tbsp. finely minced shallot 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper Salad 1 cup wheat berries 2 cups water 1/4 tsp. salt
Fried chicken flour 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp. paprika 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1/2 tsp. cayenne Sandwich 4 (6-oz.) boneless, skinless chicken breasts Canola oil, for frying chicken 8 slices applewood smoked bacon, cooked 4 slices sharp cheddar cheese 4 brioche hamburger buns 4 tbsp. agave mustard (3 tbsp. honey mustard and 1 tbsp. agave syrup) 20 bread and butter pickle slices 4 leaves baby gem lettuce
Directions
Wheat berry salad
This hearty, über-healthy salad makes a great light meal and is also a delicious side for roasted meats or poultry.
2 cups buttermilk 2 large eggs 1 1/2 tbsp. hot sauce 1/4 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Fried chicken sandwiches— once the purview of fast-food establishments—have become signature dishes at restaurants nationwide. Encontro’s version includes bacon, cheddar cheese and chipotle barbecue sauce.
By JASON HOTCHKISS ENCONTRO, SAN DIEGO
Ingredients Chipotle barbecue sauce 1/4 medium onion, diced 1/4 cup minced garlic 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 7 cups ketchup 1 cup cider vinegar 1 cup molasses 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup liquid smoke 1/4 cup chipotle in adobo sauce 1 tsp. chopped dried thyme 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper Fried chicken batter
For sauce: In a large stockpot, sauté onion and garlic in oil until translucent. Stir in remaining ingredients. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour, until thick and creamy. For sandwich: Whisk together batter ingredients in a shallow bowl. Place chicken breasts in batter and let soak for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, stir together flour ingredients in a large bowl. Working with 1 piece at a time, remove chicken from batter, allowing excess to drip back into bowl. Dredge in flour mixture, shaking off excess. Pour about 1/2 inch canola oil in a large, heavy skillet and heat to 350 degrees. Fry chicken in oil until golden brown and internal temperature registers 165 degrees. Drain on paper towels. Transfer to a pie tin and place 2 pieces of cooked bacon and 1 slice of cheese on top of each piece of chicken. Heat in oven until cheese melts, about 2 minutes. Spread cut sides of buns with agave mustard and place chicken with bacon and cheese on bottom buns. Top with pickles and lettuce, and drizzle each sandwich with 1 tbsp. barbecue sauce. Cover with bun tops. Leftover barbecue sauce can be refrigerated up to 1 week. Serves 4 Recipes courtesy of californiabountifulcom
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CELEBRATING WEST SIDE AGRICULTURE | 23
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