Level 3 Proposal: Moving Forward Independently

Matthew Regan Level 3 Proposal Report

PREFACE; MOVING FORWARD INDEPENDENTLY Positioning myself creatively and professionally within the fashion industry was difficult – it’s vast, with many different sectors and opportunities to be considered. Looking back on my feedback from the last year and a half, I noticed that my greatest strengths were embedded in my writing style and use of technical vocabulary. My ability to make strong cultural referencing and connections was also praised for making my writing more fluid and consistent.

Issues highlighted within my work have enabled me to develop my sourcing skills; I have taken my attention further from the digital sphere and have been trying to reference from books and articles more often, as well as researching through other sources of media such as podcasts. This mindset has followed me into my visual referencing also, and I am researching into industries removed from fashion – the result highlights the power of trends, and their ability

to dilute into numerous, unexpected sectors.

An ideal position for me would be situated as a copywriter at an advertising agency, as I found this works simultaneously with creative ideas alongside an Art Director and writing. The line blurs between context and ‘the big idea’, enabling my personal strengths of writing to merge with my interest in visual aesthetics and semiotics.

THE GENDER NEUTRAL GENERATION

Gender Neutrality could be considered more of a movement than a trend. Often confused with the act of a woman stealing her boyfriend’s jeans, or David Beckham sporting Posh Spice’s sarong. The key is within the fluidity of gender, and how sex and gender are not necessarily one entity.

Gender neutrality is the shunning of the gender roles and suggested characteristics that have been imprinted on society since humanity began – what if the only real difference was anatomy? We put on our roles as male or female like a cloak, it is suggested that gender is simply an imitation of how we have been conditioned to behave.

This begins in infancy, when not only colour palettes but also toys become divided depending on our anatomy.

The Trend innovators of this category share similar traits; they all belong to a subculture, and while generally unknown to the mainstream consumer, they are icons within their specialist areas.

Their careers often rely on creative energy, and centre on the arts – this is possibly a consequence of their nonconformist stance on gender and need to find liberation in a progressive and freethinking environment.

They belong to generation

Y, ranging from ages 21-27, and therefore were the first to access online platforms where they could discuss their conflicts on gender with other likeminded global teens. As a result of this, the LGBT movement grew rapidly; confused children were no longer battling their issues alone, and instead formed an online voice that rejected the denial and guilt that many LGBT people from previous generations had to live with in silence.

The only female member of hip-hop collective OFWGKTA, and singer in Neo-Soul group ‘The Internet’. Within hip-hop, it is rare for musicians to conform to anything other than homosexual, Syd is an icon of the modern times and uses platforms such as Tumblr and Twitter to discuss her sexuality and complexity of gender with her fans, who would not typically be exposed to such a catalyst for LGBT awareness and change.

Syd Tha Kid An international model and Parisian socialite, rumoured to be dating musician Frank Ocean. With clients including Yohji Yamamoto, Hood by Air and Givenchy, Cartier is a regular face amongst cult fashion magazines and often appears in gender-blurring editorials. Cartier has 109 thousand followers on Twitter and is a prolific user of blogging platform Tumblr.

Willy Cartier A London-based DJ, filmmaker and model known for his eccentric aesthetic. He has walked for Pam Hogg womenswear, and was the only ‘male’ used for Giles’ Autumn/Winter ’15 show and features in Lanvin’s androgynous Spring 2015 menswear campaign. Quinton’s style not only deconstructs gender codes, but also references and clashes styles from the past.

Josh Quinton

THIS TREND IS CENTRED AROUND MAJOR POLITICAL, SOCIAL AND HISTORICAL EVENTS.

Possibly the biggest trenddriver was the passing of same-sex marriage under UK law in 2014, which in the grand scheme of societal thinking, was proof of progress when it comes to perceptions on sexuality and gender. For the first time, same-sex love was dignified by the heterosexual majority; it was finally acknowledged as being legitimate enough to be written in law. The progression continued in April 2015, when Sweden offically added gender-neutral pronoun ‘Hen’ to their language - the UK followed, placing neutral honorific ‘Mx’ in the Oxford dictionary alongside ‘Mr’ and ‘Mrs’ for use on official documents.

Global politics are beginning to react to the wave of the gender-fluid movement, and the law is modernising to accommodate this massive social change.

Acne Studios Underwear

Loewe Spring/Summer 2015

Rad Hourani Fall 2014

J.W. Anderson, T Style October 2014

In Fashion, the trend of Androgyny has manifested itself multiple times over, but it has often only offered women clothing liberation and as discussed previously, is not synonymous with gender neutrality. Gender neutral brands are niche, and are most prevalent within the luxury market – high price brands such as Rad Hourani, 69 and J.W. Anderson remain devoted to this trend, while typically unisex names such as Acne Studios and Loewe have played with the idea through the form of a neutral underwear line and blurred look books. Brands with lower price brackets are Weekday’s MTWTFS/SHE and Telfar, but neither are mass accessible.

Nordic Design, Family Fun in Malmo 2014.

Bobo Choses, T-shirt, 29 euros

Tootsa Macginty, T-shirt, 22 pounds

Surprisingly, a large segment of the trend impact was in the Children’s lifestyle market. As the next generation, contemporary parents prefer brands that will enable their children to be whoever they want to be, irrespective of conformist gender stereotypes.

Emerging brands Tootsa Macginty, Ruff and Huddle and Bobo Choses have no divisions between girls and boys, and have price points that are relatively accessible to the mainstream consumer.

In Scandinavia, children’s interiors are beginning focus on colour and practical, open spaces for playing and ignore specific gender barriers.

Ruff and Huddle, T-shirt , 22 pounds

Film Still from Boys Don’t Cry, 1999

In terms of culture and events, London held its first Transgender film festival in 2014 and exhibitions exploring the fragility of gender constructs, such as ‘Magic Mirror’ at the Nunnery Gallery in April 2015 further reinforce a wider acceptance of the gender neutral movement and although still quite low-scale, are gradually wearing the line down between the niche and mass market.

Photograph Claude Cahun, 1928.

Bruce Jenner, Wheaties Box 1977.

The most obvious construct of gender neutrality within the mass market would be the shift in gender constructs amongst celebrities in the media; this year, Bruce Jenner came out as a woman in a highly documented TV interview which reached 16.9 total million viewers between 9-11pm. The event crossed generations; viewers’ age range could be placed through whether they knew Jenner as the 1976 Olympic gold medallist, or as the step-dad of Kim Kardashian and star of the reality TV franchise. Jenner described how there is no correlation between sexual anatomy and perceived gender, and simultaneously educated two generations. The public deconstruction of homonormative societal expectations paves the way for the gender neutrality trend, justifying a separation between anatomy and learned roles of masculinity.

As publications of the mass-market, another milestone for societal change towards gender was the trans actress Lavern Cox being named Glamour magazines Woman of the Year 2014, as well as being featured on TIME magazine’s list of the 100 most influential people of 2014.

Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt have been praised for their parenting; their child John was assigned female at birth, according to Jolie “She wants to be a boy…so we had to cut her hair. She likes to wear boys’ everything. She thinks she’s one of the brothers.” ( Vanity Fair, 2010) An influential figure such as Jolie reinforces the notion that gender, assigned at birth, can be detected as being wrong by children at an early age and clothing that leans towards dominant stereotypes during infancy can be emotionally damaging.

Lego Advertisement, 1981.

Noting this theory, major retailers such as Tescos, Sainsburys, Morrisons and Boots have removed boys’ and girls’ signage from toy departments, while Marks and Spencers has taken measures further, by making its toys labelling completely gender-neutral. The National Union Teachers has also developed the Breaking the Mould initiative, to address the issues of gender stereotyping in primary schools. (NewsWeek) In May 2015, Amazon also removed ‘Boys’ and ‘Girls’ search filter from the toy department. (Daily Mail).

Gender neutrality still fails to impact the mainstream fashion industry with any real affect, the most obvious constructs of the trend are present in the popularity of trainers such as New Balance and Adidas, as well as Fjallraven Kanken backpacks.

THE FUTURE; I plan to explore the possibilities of either creating a uniformed diffusion line from a brand such as Mothercare or Mamas and Papas that is a solidified within the children’s market, or join the emerging list of gender-neutral childrenswear brands independently.

The first option would offer me more security, and have a substantial effect on the mass market, while the later gives room for creativity and adds weight to the rising counter-culture.

Retailer COS has a separate section for children that has replicas of their main line goods – in preparation for level 3 I will also research the relationship between the way parent’s dress their children in comparison to their personal style through parentchild street style observations, and the possibility of producing a children’s neutral line from a lifestyle and fashion brand. As most children’s retailers already supply ‘unisex’ styles for newborn babies, my ideal age-range for a line would be from 3-8 years old, where gender neutrality would make more of a statement.

Icelandic brand AS WE GROW

“Unisex dressing comes to the fore, reflected in the surge of brands offering gender-neutral pieces” – WGSN, Kids Report Autumn/ Winter 2016

Danish Brand Wheat

My primary research was an online questionnaire that shed light on societal interpretations on gender norms in relation to children’s clothing. The sample size of 46 showed that a majority of 58% respondents did not believe that gender is determined by physical anatomy. The 20% that believe gender is determined by physical anatomy were more likely to ‘always’ buy gender specific clothing when purchasing for a baby. None of these respondents replied ‘Yes’ when asked if children should be able to swap items of clothing between genders, although thematic analysis revealed the majority of this group had positive responses on the idea of a genderneutral clothing brand.

When asked if babies should be dressed in gender specific colours e.g. pink or blue, 63% of respondents said they shouldn’t, while only 7% said they should – and the remaining said they didn’t care. It is clear from this data that prejudice on this topic is rare, and respondents are open to gender neutral colour schemes.

Summative thematic analysis showed 32/37

responses were positive about a gender-neutral clothing brand for children of all ages; phrases such as ‘the future’, ‘modern’ and ‘great idea’ were common.

The rest remained hesitant, words such as ‘unrealistic’, ‘unsure’ were used, and one respondent worried that parents would use genderneutral clothing as a forceful tool to instil their values.

Marius Sweater by Kid Nordic

Pierrot la Lune Knitted Jumpers

Promoting the questionnaire on Facebook had flawed the data slightly, as 70 % of respondents were in the age bracket of 18-24; according to the Office for National Statistics, ‘the average age of all mothers increased to 30.0 years in 2013’ – therefore, my ideal age range would be 25-34, who only made up 20% of respondents in my research. For my next survey, I will target online forums for young parents for closer interaction to the core consumer as well as holding focus groups with expectant parents that centre on product selection.

Angulus Children Spring 2015

Consumer Profile

My target consumer is a male or female, in the 25-34 age bracket and are expectant or first time parents.

They are both employed, and spend amble amount of time caring for their new-born by sharing duties equally. They have stable careers in creative industries such as fashion buying and graphic design, and spent their early 20’s working to achieve this. Interests include the arts, interior design and lifestyle – they choose to shop in second hand furniture stores, and stick to vintage clothing and clean, Scandinavian design. Their taste in children’s design focuses on a playful colour palette and nostalgic, well-made pieces that can sometimes reference their own wardrobes.

They are early adopters of the gender-neutral movement.

THE ECO-CONCIOUS CONSUMER

A surge of eco-conscious design stems from numerous scientific discoveries in the past decade; although an essential trend to human survival in the long run, it is also a simple technique for brands to manufacture goods that instantly ease the consumers subconscious concerns.

The media bombards the population with frightening new statistics and depictions of a natural apocalypse, whether it is in the form of dramatic headlines or through Hollywood disaster films – consumers want products that will rescue them.

Landmark discoveries include; the stubborn hole in the O-Zone layer that according to NASA remains at the size of North America, despite preventative initiatives to reduce harmful emissions into the atmosphere and continues to rapidly reduce in thickness. The infamous Deepwater Horizon oil spill that had a devastating effect on marine life, the 170 million gallons of oil that flooded the Gulf caused more than 8,000 birds, turtles and sea mammals to die within six months – a 2015 study also linked over 50 dolphin deaths over two years later to the incident, the long-term effects of this disaster are unclear. Another

recent study suggests that cold-blooded species face a mass wipeout due to global warming; Dr Alex Gunderson states, “global warming is predicted to drive the extinction of many species and reduce the population sizes of other�. In relation more specifically to fashion, the rivers in Bangladesh are so polluted by garment manufacturing that they run the colour of the dye used in factories. The constant media exposure makes it difficult to understand how such environmental ignorance is still unregulated, especially in an age of such scientific knowledge.

Deepwater Oil Spill, Daniel Beltra

As this is such an important issue that has emerged due to powers beyond human control, it is impossible to find a real trend innovator other than the force of nature – however; Scandinavian countries have been the most eager to take action against this issue by instilling strict environmental laws and relying heavily on renewable sources of energy, their cities coincidentally also appear on ‘the happiest places to live’ lists. A combination of their contemporary approach to living a fully eco-lifestyle and their minimalist, practical design aesthetics set an example on how to make saving the environment less oatmeal and more stylish.

River Pollution, Bangladesh 2015

A Norwegian Cabin in the Woods

Studio One Eighty Nine

Base Range Spring/Summer 2015

Voz Spring/Summer 2015

Emerging fashion brands began to filter this concept into the luxury market, through the use of eco-conscious fabric sourcing and production. Voz, a Brooklyn based ready-to-wear brand for women created in 2012, uses organic and vegetable dyed textiles that have been hand-woven indigenous Mapuche woman in Chile – this example highlights the importance of supporting impoverished communities and supplying them with the financial resources to produce garments sustainably.

Other similar brands include Base Range that is also produced with non-toxic formulas, as well as Studio One Eight Nine; a line of completely recycled clothing from unloved goods. Although their high price points could be interpreted as a paradox, or even hypocritical, these brands are morphing products that are essentially waste into something of substance.

Environmental warnings would also unsurprisingly have an impact on public transportation when in 2010; London introduced a public bicycle hire scheme based on examples from greener cities such as Oslo and Copenhagen.

More developments in this sector include the debut of the first electric public bus in South Korea, powered by a wireless charging system while in motion (2013). Also, Cambridge students invented the first hybrid plane that can recharge its batteries while flying – although it can only run for 30 seconds, the aircraft that uses up to 30% less fuel than a petrol-only engine, hints at a more sustainable future for commercial flying.

Product design took a space-age turn, with products suited to a dystopian future; architect Vincent Callebaut presented ‘Lilypads’ in 2010, a model of a self-sufficient island that combats the issues of inhabitable land due to rising water levels.

Some products even anticipated human refuge to Mars, such as ‘Le Petit Prince’, a robotic greenhouse that protects plants and scavenges the harsh terrain for nutrients.

Advances in home technologies, such as the 2012 Kitchen Nano Garden by Hyundai and an almost waterless washing machine by Xeros hint at the possibility for futuristic eco-technology to adapt to the average home. However, the mass market questions the quality of sustainable technology in comparison to commercial goods.

Dove Compressed Deodorant Can

For the mass market, this trend has started to dramatically affect manufacturers and their packaging choices – Coca Cola have started to phase out the use of petroleum-based plastics, and as of June 2014, over 25 billion of their PlantBottle packages are in the market in about 40 countries. The decision to use plant-based bio plastics has saved 525,000 barrels of oil. Other companies such as Nike, McDonalds and Marks & Spencer’s are using the same bio-plastics for their packaging too.

Other advances in packaging design include Unilever’s compressed deodorant cans that are half the size of previous models but last just as long and work to the same standard.

As the biggest deodorant manufacture in the UK, the move that cuts the carbon footprint by 25% per bottle will have a longterm affect on lowering harmful aerosol emissions.

Political action was taken in 2014, when it became compulsory in the UK for

all major supermarkets to charge 5pence for plastic shopping bags – as a result, the use of reusable shopping bags has risen. High-street retailers responded to this issue with company eco-initiatives; Topshop collaborated on a line with ‘Reclaim to Wear’, a brand that creates garments from leftover fabrics donated by manufacturers, while H&M released a sustainability report ‘H&M Conscious’ with one manifesto that promised

Tesco Bag for Life

to “massive reduce our climate impacts…by going all in for renewable electricity” (2014). The public report that displays all environmental statistics has changed the retail landscape, as retailers have more initiative for honesty with their consumers.

More supercilious consequences include a rise in the eco-aesthetic, with recyclable materials such as brown paper and card taking centre stage in packaging. A natural colour palette combined with simple typography signifies brand honesty and purity and is most common packing for the ‘Organic’ section of supermarkets.

HM Concious Collection

Topshop x Reclaim to Wear

THE FUTURE; I think the future of this trend is in discussion and rebranding; eco-fashion is rarely considered fashionable and doesn’t necessarily translate into the luxury fashion market. The issue is that sustainable design often centres on a green aesthetic, and targets consumers who are interested in environmentally friendly products directly. The most feasible route into the mass market would be to consider sustainability as positive quality that is secondary to design, rather than overwhelming the consumer with a hyper-green aesthetic.

For my primary research, I conducted an online questionnaire regarding opinions on environmental fashion as well as knowledge of current events – I noticed a disconnection between the 47% of respondents who said they were ‘quite concerned’ about climate damage, yet the 67% majority still rarely buy eco-friendly products.

Consumers clearly want to prevent pollution, yet eco-products are not providing them with correct aesthetic; comments stated they found it ‘boring’ and ‘unfashionable’, as well as being accompanied by patronising, longwinded explanations.

Eco-magazine Pure Green Volume 6

Consumer Profile

I plan to launch a sustainable lifestyle magazine, which will aim to rebrand eco-products into the epitome of practicality and style. 80% of respondents said they would like to learn new ways to live an ecofriendly lifestyle; the digital monthly publication will offer insight into emerging fashion and design brands, as well as editorials styled in an entirely sustainable way.

My core consumer is in the 18-24-age bracket, male or female, and an early adopter in the fashion landscape. Their taste is suited to practical design with a slight nostalgic feel, often a mixture of updated classics and vintage clothing. They take interests in social and political matters, and are liberal thinkers; often attending protest marches towards equality and a cleaner environment. Their interests include independent films, visiting exhibitions and living a green lifestyle. Modes of transport are on their second-hand bicycles where possible, and they stick to a healthy lifestyle. In preparation for level 3, I will be arranging a focus group with people fitting this demographic, I will ask them their opinions on content, digital versus printed format and what they feel is missing from current eco-magazines.

REFERENCES; Bawden, T. (2015) Cold-blooded species face wipeout as they cannot cope with global warming, study says. Available at: http:// www.independent.co.uk/environment/nature/coldbloodedspecies-face-wipeout-as-they-cannot-cope-with-global-warmingstudy-says-10262099.html (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Bingham, J. (2013) Average age of women giving birth now nearly 30. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/women/mothertongue/10380260/Average-age-of-women-giving-birth-nownearly-30.html (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Garner, R. (2014) 2014 Antarctic Ozone Hole Holds Steady.

Available at: http://www.nasa.gov/content/goddard/2014antarctic-ozone-hole-holds-steady/#.VWeDR1xVikr (Accessed: 1 June 2015) How Does the BP Oil Spill Impact Wildlife and Habitat? National Wildlife Federation (no date) Available at: https://www. nwf.org/What-We-Do/Protect-Habitat/Gulf-Restoration/OilSpill/Effects-on-Wildlife.aspx (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Is this the future of flying? Planes go hybrid-electric (2014) Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ aviation/11308465/Is-this-the-future-of-flying-Planes-gohybrid-electric.html (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Kwaak, J. S. (2013) South Korea Tests New Technology for Electric Bus. Available at: http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001 424127887323980604579030340856307338 (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Magazine, V. F. and Fair, V. (no date) Angelina Jolie on Marriage, the Kids, and Retirement. Available at: http://www.vanityfair. com/news/2010/06/angelina-jolie-on-marriage-kids-andretirement (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Meet Fashion’s Cool New Wave of Sustainable Chic Designers (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13255926/newsustainable-clothing-designers-eco-fashion/ (Accessed: 1 June 2015)

Patten, D. (2015) Bruce Jenner Interview Ratings Hits Newsmag Demo Record In Live+3. Available at: http:// deadline.com/2015/04/bruce-jenner-interview-ratingsdiane-sawyer-20-20-1201416149/ (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Rushton, K. (2015) Amazon makes toy department gender neutral. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/ article-3072252/Amazon-makes-toy-department-genderneutral-Boy-girl-search-filter-removed.html (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Statistics, O. F. N. (2014) Live Births in England and Wales by Characteristics of Mother 1, 2013. Available at: http://www.ons.gov.uk/ons/rel/vsob1/characteristics-ofMother-1--england-and-wales/2013/stb-characteristics-ofmother-1--2013.html (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Sustainability H&M (2014) Available at: http://sustainability. hm.com/en/sustainability.html (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Tanguy, M. (2010) Norway has set Europe an eco example. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/ commentisfree/2010/aug/11/europe-must-follow-norwayseco-example (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Vidal, J. and editor, E. (2008) ‘Sustainable’ bio-plastic can damage the environment. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/environment/2008/apr/26/waste.pollution (Accessed: 1 June 2015) Wills, J. (2014) Unilever’s compressed aerosols cut carbon footprint by 25% per can. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainability-casestudies-unilver-compressed-aerosols (Accessed: 1 June 2015)

ILLUSTRATIONS; Figure 1. Unknown. Prada Spring/ Summer 2015 Set (September 2014) [Tumblr Post] At: http://messgala.tumblr.com/ post/97816285553 (Accessed on 25.05.15) Figure 2. Mckimm, A. ‘Boys do not dress for the girls’. iD Magazine. (November 2014) [Editorial] At: https://i-d.vice.com/ en_au/article/boys-do-not-dress-for-thegirls (Accessed on 25.05.15)

Figure 3. Mckimm, A. ‘Girls do not dress for the boys’. iD Magazine. (November 2014) [Editorial] At: https://i-d.vice.com/ en_au/article/boys-do-not-dress-for-thegirls (Accessed on 25.05.15)

Figure 4. Avedon, R. ‘Andy Warhol and members of The Factory. (October 30, 1969) [Photograph] At: http:// alixandrajekyllhyde.tumblr.com/ post/60892895448/andy-warhol-andmembers-of-the-factory-by (Accessed on 25.05.15) Figure 5. Unknown. Syd Tha Kid [Tumblr Post] At: http://38.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ lsir6pElZ11r09zew.jpg (Accessed on 25.05.15)

Figure 6. Illuminati AMS Collective.

Mirrors featuring Willy Cartier. (May 2014) [Digital Video Still] At: https://vimeo.com/93476958 (Accessed on 25.05.15)

Figure 7. Mitrunen, N. Josh Quinton for Revs Magazine. (February 2015) [Digital Image] At: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/495325658992381018/ (Accessed on 25.05.15)

Figure 8. Milou and Olin Photography.

Durham Ranch Wedding. (June 2014) [Digital Image] At: http://www.stylemepretty.com/ gallery/picture/1061956/ (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 9. Hawkesworth, J. Loewe Menswear Spring 2015 Lookbook.

(2014) [Digital Image] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/spring-2015menswear/loewe/collection/6 (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 10. Unknown. Acne Studios Underwear. (2014) [Digital Image] At: http://www.theroomartist.com/ blog-post/is-pink-the-new-black (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 11. Hourani, R. Rad Hourani S/S 2014 campaign (2014) [Digital Image] At: http://nowfashion.com/rad-by-radhourani-ready-to-wear-spring-summer2014-paris-4839?photo=258635 (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 12. Hawkesworth, J. J.W. Anderson for T Style (October 2014) [Digital Image/Editorial] At: http://fashioncopious.typepad.com/ fashioncopious/2014/10/nora-attalnader-chaudhry-by-jamie-hawkesworthfor-t-style-october-2014-editorial.html (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 13. Unknown. Family fun in Malmo. Avenue Lifestyle (October 2014) [Digital Image/Editorial] At: http://nordicdesign.ca/fun-familyhome-in-malmo/ (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 14. Mr Nail T-Shirt. Bobo Choses.

(Spring/Summer 2015) [E-Commerce Digital Image] At: http://www.bobochoses.com/tshirts/4017-mr-nail-t-shirt.html (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 15. Animal Stripe T-shirt/ Lion (Blue). Tootsa Macginty. (Spring/Summer 2015) [E-Commerce Digital Image] At: http://tootsamacginty.com/ product/animal-stripe-t-shirt-bluelion/ (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 16. Mapparazi Tee. Ruff and Huddle. (Spring/Summer 2015) [E-Commerce Digital Image] At: http://www.ruffandhuddle. co.uk/collections/tops/products/ maparazzi-tee/ (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 17. Boys Don’t Cry [Motion picture]. (1999). 20th Century Fox [Film Still] At: http://www.movieforums. com/community/attachment. php?attachmentid=15270&d=1401417189 (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 18. Cahun, C. Magic Mirror.

(1928) [Photograph] At: http://assets.loeildelaphotographie. com/uploads/article_photo/ image/143043/Claude_ Cahun-1928_-_JHT-1995-00041-n.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 19. Wheaties Cereal. Bruce Jenner Cover. (1977) [Photograph] At: http://i.huffpost.com/ gadgets/slideshows/241171/ slide_241171_1286578_free.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 20. Unknown. Lavern Cox. inStyle Magazine (October 2015) [Editorial] At: http://www.glistsociety.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/10/LaverneCox.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 21. Unknown. John Jolie Red Carpet. (2014) [Digital Photograph] At: http://www.advocate.com/sites/ advocate.com/files/imagecache/stories/ Shiloh-John-Jolie-Pitt-x400d.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 22. Unknown. Lego Advertisement.

LEGO. ‘What it is is beautiful’ (1981) [Advertisement] At: http://i.imgur.com/xwAsW56.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 23. Jackshg Flickr. Fjallraven Kanken, Brighton. (March 2013) [Digital Photograph] At: https://www.flickr.com/ photos/91103659@N07/8541800019 (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 24. Unknown. Trainers Street Style, Toyko. WGSN. (April 2015) [Digital Photograph] At: http://www.wgsn.com/storage/ vol18/ss_image_store/71/46/35/22/ media__ts0415_IMG_7115.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 25. Birgisson, V. AS WE GROW Lookbook Winter 2015.

(2015) [Digital Photograph] At: http://static.littlescandinavian. com/2015/01/ColorblockCardi_ aswegrow_aw15-675x1013.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 26. Little Scandinavian.

Angulus Childrens Shoes Spring/ Summer 2014. (2013) [Digital Photograph] At: http://static.littlescandinavian. com/2013/11/Angulus_childrens_ shoes_spring_summer_2014-7675x1019.jpg (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 27. Kid Nordic. Marius Sweater (2014) [E-Commerce Digital Photograph] At: http://kidnordic.com/products/ (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 28. Unknown. Wheat Autumn/ Winter 2014 Lookbook. (2014) [Digital Photograph] At: http://static.littlescandinavian. com/2014/10/Screen-Shot-2014-1016-at-11.56.31-675x459.png (Accessed on 26.05.15) Figure 29. Unknown. Pierrot la Lune Lookbook (2014) [Digital Photograph] At: http://littlescandinavian. com/2014/02/12/pierrot-la-lunebeautiful-childrens-clothes-fromdenmark/ (Accessed on 26.05.15)

Figure 30. Unknown. Spring Love (April 2013) [Digital Photograph] At: http://www.thelocals.dk/blog/ spring-love (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 31. Unknown. Same-sex couple with child (2015) [Digital Photograph] At: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/343118065337004979/ (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 32. Pavini, J. Upcycled Planters Turn Trash into Treasure (April 2015) [Digital Photograph] At: http://www.coupons.com/ thegoodstuff/15-upcycled-planters/ (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 33. Unknown. ‘While Londoners Complain About A Tube Strike, The South West Appears To Have Been Washed Away’ SWNS. (February 2014) [Digital Photograph] At: http://ak-hdl.buzzfed.com/ static/2014-02/enhanced/webdr07/5/6/ enhanced-buzz-wide-31216-1391600433-7. jpg (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 34. Dilkoff, D. Scientists alarmed at short-term Ozone-eroding gases. (February 2015) [Digital Photograph] At: https://uk.news.yahoo.com/scientistsalarmed-short-term-ozone-erodinggases-214014549.html#d59DGyk (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 35. Beltra, D. The Price of Oil (2012) [Digital Photograph] At: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/195765915021945392/ (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 36. Abdullah, A. ‘Washerman cleans clothes in polluted river’ (2015) [Digital Photograph] At: http://pix.avaxnews.com/ avaxnews/88/0e/00020e88_medium. jpeg (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 37. ‘Colorful Compact Living – Sommarstuga med farg!’. ABC Nyheter.

(April 2012) [Digital Photograph] At: http://inredningsdesigner.blogspot. co.uk/2012/04/colorful-compact-livingsommarstuga-med.html (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 38. Kak, U. ‘Voz Spring/ Summer 2015 Editorial’. (2015) [Digital Photograph] At: http://www.madebyvoz.com/ pages/spring-summer-2015 (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 39. McMahon, D. ‘Effortless Beauty in S/S Collection by Base Range’. (October 2014) [Digital Photograph] At: http://thisispaper.com/BASErange-S-S2015-Collection/ (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 40. Berkofsky, S. ‘Bazaaaar Pop-Up: Photoshoot’. (2015) [Digital Photograph/Editorial] (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 41. Regan, Matthew. ‘Vintage Bicycle in Stockholm’. (April 2015) [Personal Photograph]

Figure 42. Unknown. ‘South Korea unveils World’s first commercial electric bus.

(2010) [Digital Photograph] At: http:// inhabitat.com/south-korea-unveils-worldsfirst-commerical-electric-bus/ (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 43. Unknown. ‘Boeing teams Sugar Volt Aircraft Burns 70% less fuel’. (2010) [Digital Graphic] At: http://inhabitat.com/ boeing-teams-sugar-volt-aircraft-burns-70less-fuel/ (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 44. Callebaut, W. ‘Lilypad floating cities in the age of global warmingl’. (2010) [Architectural graphic] At: http://inhabitat. com/lilypad-floating-cities-in-the-age-ofglobal-warming/ (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 45. Miklica, M. ’15 Bizarre Green Inventions: Le Petit Prince’.

(20101 [Architectural graphic] At: http://www.mnn.com/green-tech/ research-innovations/photos/15bizarre-green-inventions/le-petitprince (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 46. Miklica, M. ‘Compressed Dove Deodorant vs. Original’.

(2014) [Advertisement] At: http://i. ytimg.com/vi/RLqTFNY8ITQ/ maxresdefault.jpg (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 47. Unknown. ‘H&M Conscious Exclusive Collection’. Bagaholic Boy. (2013) [Advertisement] At: http:// bagaholicboy.com/wp-content/ uploads/2013/03/hm_consciousexclusive-collection.jpg (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 48. Unknown. ‘Topshop Reclaim To Wear x Dazed Digital’.

(2012) [Digital Photograph/Editorial] At: http://sidewalkhustle.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/07/TopshopReclaim-To-Wear-x-Digital-Dazed.jpg (Accessed on 27.05.15) Figure 49. Unknown. ‘Tesco Shopping Eco Bag’. (2013) [Digital Photograph] At: http://ceepackaging.com/wpcontent/uploads/2013/08/Tescoshopping-eco-bag-e1376304282685. jpg (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 50. Unknown. ‘Pure Green Volume 6 Layout’. (2014) [Digital Photograph] At: https://designmenagerie.com/media/ catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78 eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/u/ pure_green_vol_6_image_4.jpg (Accessed on 27.05.15)

Figure 51. Unknown. ‘Today I love: Hipster Couple’. (2014) [Digital Photograph] At: http://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/todayi-love-this-3963764?blog=3963764&post =2205992581&viewer=true (Accessed on 27.05.15)

APPENDIX 1; Powerpoint Presentation

APPENDIX 2; Survey on Gender in Children’s Clothing At: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/9PTMKNC

APPENDIX 3; Survey on Enviromental Damage and Digital Exposure At: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/LFVN8TZ