HOLIDAY RECIPES BY AWARDWINNING MAUI CHEFS
MAUI NŌ K A ‘OI MAGAZINE
NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2015 VOL. 19 NO. 6
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features «
BES T OF MAUI
»
Two hundred years of devastation by cattle, goats, and target bombings have left Kaho‘olawe a starkly beautiful but dangerous island. What happens now that federal restoration funds are gone? See story page 38. Photo by Forest & Kim Starr
about our cover Winter brings big waves to Hawai‘i, nowhere more dramatically than at Pe‘ahi on Maui’s north shore—a site better known around the world as “Jaws.” Attempting those punishing waves was unthinkable before Laird Hamilton and a handful of other daredevils invented tow-in surfing. Surviving Jaws is still cause for celebration, as Hamilton is seen doing here. Photo by Bob Bangerter
28 adventure
10 GREAT ADVENTURES We know, because we picked ‘em. Compiled by Lehia Apana
38 hawaiian soul
KAHO‘OLAWE’S LEGACY With federal funds gone, Kaho‘olawe’s caretakers are scrambling to heal this sacred place. By Paul Wood
44 maui style
THE SHAKA LIST Our annual and eclectic review of things we love about Maui. By Shannon Wianecki
52 at home
UNDER THE SOUTHERN SUN For one Maui artist, home is a study in light. By Rita Goldman
64 great finds
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Ideas that celebrate the best that Maui has to offer. Compiled by Conn Brattain
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departments 16 publisher’s note 18 talk story
by Diane Haynes Woodburn
Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana, Teri Freitas Gorman & Shannon Wianecki
25 arts & leisure
Our picks for where to go, what to do ~ Compiled by Sarah Ruppenthal
104 calendar of events 110 who’s who 114 liddo bitta tita
What’s happening where, when and with whom
Seen making the scene on Maui
Our local authority gets the last word. By Kathy Collins Where do you go for great sushi on Maui? Who serves the best surf and turf? Which restaurants really know local cuisine? Vote for your favorites and we’ll spread the word—and enter you in a drawing for certificates to ‘Aipono-winning restaurants. See the ad opposite page 91 for details.
THIS ISSUE ONLINE
Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in July) DO TRY THIS AT HOME Find the test-kitchen recipes we ran out of room for—salt-baked onaga, grilled pumpkin salad, “rack of pineapple” dessert, and homemade ginger ale—at MauiMagazine.net/HolidayKitchen2015. (Find video demonstrations from our test kitchen, too!) THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for updates around Maui County. EH, LIKE LISTEN? Tita’s column stay mo’ bettah when she reads ‘em out loud. RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo at MauiMagazine.net/ WhosWho and pin it to your Pinterest board or share it on Facebook. LET’S GET SOCIAL ....................................................................
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Edible flowers, watermelon cucumbers and colorful dollops of sauces adorn the sashimi plate Executive Chef Cameron Lewark, of Spago Maui, created for our holiday test kitchen. See story (and recipe) on page 78. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi
DINING
78 dining feature
HOLIDAY TEST KITCHEN Every year, we invite one of Maui’s award-winning chefs to lead us in creating a holiday feast, then share the recipes with you. This year, three chefs showed up. By Becky Speere
86 maui mixology
KNOCKOUT PUNCHES Don’t want to spend your whole party playing bartender for your guests? Try this! By Becky Speere
90 raise your glass
Now is the time for all great wines to come to the aid of the party. By Charles Fredy
92 dining guide
A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island
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On Maui we have a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.
What is the best gift you ever gave or got? One Christmas, my aunt gave me a doll whose eyes closed when you laid her down. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven! Give generously to Toys for Tots—your gift can send a child to heaven, too. —Becky Speere All the pets I’ve had as an adult were presents to myself or from friends. We adopted Blake from Maui Humane Society three years ago. I think it’s time for another this year—that will be Blake’s present. —Conn Brattain Cash! —Bob Bangerter A garish oversized necklace made from cantaloupecolored plastic and fake gold, purchased at a Kahului School bazaar by my six-year-old son. It was the first present he ever bought on his own, and he used the quarter I had given him to buy ice cream. —Kathy Collins The first time I took a solo trip, leaving my threeyear-old with her daddy, a friend assembled gossip magazines to ease my separation anxiety, a key holder with a picture of my baby, and a card filled with positive affirmations. —Mieko Horikoshi When I was a teenager, my dad bought me my first surfboard. I wasn’t really into surfing at the time, but after getting that board I fell in love with the ocean—and that’s the true gift. —Michael Haynes
PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER
Adelle Lennox
ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Collins, Charles Fredy, Terri Freitas Gorman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Bob Bangerter, Glen J. Barr, Ben Ferrari, Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Hudelson, Nina Kuna, Tony Lathrop, Karl Magnaca, Jason Moore, Mike Neal, Eric Olbrich, Ryan Siphers, Andrew Shoemaker, Forest & Kim Starr CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS
Matt Foster CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION
Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 DIRECTOR OF SALES Laura Lewark ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Michael Haynes CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER
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My ex is a consummate woodworker. He once offered to make me either a koa jewelry box or a bookcase. “Do you need to ask?” I said. “Nope,” he replied, “bookcase it is.” Beautiful it is, too. —Rita Goldman In my twenties, I created elaborate cards adorned with scraps from my collection of magazines from the ’50s and ’60s. Some were hand-lettered, with original poetry. I made my mom a Mother’s Day card in college that still makes her cry when she reads it—in a good way, though. —John Giordani The best gift I received was a trip to Maui after college. My mom offered the trip and it changed my life. Three years later, I moved to Maui. —Adelle Lennox One Christmas Eve my ex and I realized we got everyone gifts except each other, so we came up with a scavenger hunt to find each other gifts in various categories. We hid from each other in the store, then wrapped in secret. Guessing what gift went into each category was the best part. —Shelby Lynch My best gift was being invited to move to Maui by my friend, visual artist David Kupferberg. I moved six months ago, and it has been the most rewarding and challenging experience of my life. I have felt so supported by the wonderful people I have met. —Ben Ferrari
Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, & The Shops at Wailea magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ©2015 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. Canadian Post Publication Mail Agreement 41458020, undeliverables 2-7496 Bath Road, Mississauga, Ontario L4T 1L2. MauiMagazine.net
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publisher’s note Keeping Mo‘okiha on course “Duck!” someone warns, and I drop to the deck as the boom swings overhead. The huge sails flap as the crew guides them in, then fill with wind, tall and proud. The canoe surges forward, flying on the crest of the next wave. I scramble to the stern, out of the way of the busy crew. There, steersman and teacher Makanani, a Hawaiian man with laughing eyes and a sturdy build, steadies the massive wooden steering blade, confidently slicing the path ahead. I’m one of several guests on the Mo‘okiha o Pi‘ilani, a sixty-two-foot wa‘a kaulua, the first Polynesian double-hulled voyaging canoe built and launched from Maui in 600 years. No small accomplishment for Hui o Wa‘a Kaulua, the nonprofit organization whose dedicated men and women have stewarded the project, and no small honor for us to be aboard. Over the course of nearly twenty years, hundreds of people helped build Mo‘okiha, some by raising funds and public awareness, some working under the expert guidance of Snake Ah Hee and later Captain Timi Gilliom. Through the leadership of Kimokeo Kapahulehua, Mo‘okiha o Pi‘ilani finally launched (Hawaiians would say she was born) July 11, 2014. On that day she took her place as a cultural treasure, joining the grand canoes of each of the Hawaiian Islands. “Would you like to take the blade?” Capt. Gilliom asks me. He motions to Makanani, and a moment later, I steady my feet and take hold. To keep the enormous blade from catapulting me overboard, Makanani loops a rope around it, and ties the other end to the side of the canoe opposite the greater pull. Still, it is a challenge. My face is covered with sea spray and a smile as wide as the ocean. For an instant, I am transported—imagining what it was like for the early Polynesians who crossed the Pacific from Southeast Asia, the Marquesas, and Tahiti, bringing only what they could store on a canoe much like this, navigating by the stars, winds and currents alone. It took Westerners far longer to get here. After they did, they began to establish laws that forbade the practice of Hawaiian language and customs, nearly wiping indigenous knowledge from memory. Even fifty years ago, many still considered Hawai‘i’s indigenous culture primitive. Yet the Hawaiians’ astute understanding of the natural world not only enabled them to settle here at a time when European vessels were still hugging their continental coastlines in fear of falling off the Earth; it allowed them for more than a millennium to live sustainably on the most remote islands on the planet. In the early 1970s, a group of intrepid Hawaiians set out to recover their culture—by building a floating classroom, a replica of the ancient sailing vessels that brought Polynesians to Hawai‘i. Against all odds, the Hōkūle’a was born. In 1976, her successful voyage to Tahiti without the use of modern navigational instruments shocked the world, and began a cultural revolution. The wind abates, and Makanani rescues me from my duty as steerswoman. I watch with respect and awe as the crew begins to bring the sails in. Makanani speaks softly and with aloha, expressing his gratitude that future generations of all backgrounds will be able to learn handson aboard the Mo‘okiha, balancing the wisdom of Hawaiian kūpuna (elders) with modern technology, meteorology and navigation. “The canoe is our family,” Kimokeo once told me. “We are nothing without the guidance of our kūpuna, our ancestors. Connection with our past guides us to the future.” Wishing you all the joys of the season, and the gift of connecting to one another. This Christmas, Hui o Wa‘a Kaulua continues fundraising to secure a permanent home at Lahaina Harbor. For information visit HuiOWaa.org. To learn more about Mo‘okiha’s journey, read the stories “Raising Mo‘okiha,” “Now, Voyager,” and “Birth of a Canoe,” in our online archives at Maui Magazine.net.
Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher
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The publisher briefly takes the helm.
www.mauimagazine.net
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talk story FRESH OFF THE COCONUT WIRELESS
Book ‘em, Danno!
Aloha—It’s the Law In 1986, Hawai‘i lawmakers passed the “Aloha Spirit” law (Hawai‘i Revised Statutes, section 5-7.5), which recognizes the aloha spirit “as the working philosophy of native Hawaiians . . . presented as a gift to the people of Hawai‘i.” The late Aunty Pilahi Paki wrote the law because she foresaw a twentyfirst-century world in deep strife that would look to Hawai‘i for healing. Aloha would be its remedy. According to the law, all Hawai‘i citizens and government officials must conduct themselves with aloha. It is virtually impossible to enforce the Aloha Spirit law, but longtime Maui resident Deidre Tegarden remembers a time when it worked just as Aunty Pilahi intended. It was April of 2012 and Deidre was the protocol officer for then-Hawai‘i Governor Neil Abercrombie. She stood on the Honolulu Airport tarmac awaiting the arrival of a high-ranking dignitary from the People’s Republic of China. The plane landed but the VIP failed to emerge. Several awkward minutes later, an aide appeared. She explained there would be no meeting because, much to the disappointment of Beijing, the governor had met with the Dalai Lama two months prior. Thinking quickly, Deidre responded in her very best Mandarin, “The governor of Hawai‘i always meets with every world leader because Hawai‘i is the Aloha State and our laws require us to extend aloha to everyone.” But the aide was unimpressed. There would be no meeting. Later, the aide called. She said that after researching the Aloha Spirit law, they understood the governor was legally obligated to show aloha. She asked if he was still willing to meet. Their friendly meeting resulted in an annual holiday gift exchange between Beijing and Honolulu that endures today—ours being a box of chocolate macadamia nuts, of course. Smart, Aunty Pilahi. She knew that a humble box of mac nuts and a little aloha could instigate a move toward world peace.—Teri Freitas Gorman
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Illustration by Matt Foster
“What’s he in for?”
“No aloha."
¹
SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS
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Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com
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A Day in the Life
talk story
Saved by the Bell NAME: Jamie Ko
TITLE: Salvation Army bell ringer
CHEERLEADER: For thirty years, Jamie Ko has faithfully donned a red apron and stood watch over his Salvation Army donation kettle. Holiday shoppers at Times Supermarket in Honokōwai can’t miss him—his handheld bell rattles like a soundtrack of the season, as he greets passersby with a broad smile and a firm shaka. “I got the aloha,” beams Jamie. “Even when people ignore me or
walk past, I just keep smiling and say ‘Have a nice day!’” Then there’s the music. Jamie’s soulful leo ki‘eki‘e (Hawaiian falsetto) and holiday classics have become a Christmas tradition. HOLIDAY HOURS: Despite his sunny attitude, Jamie acknowledges that bell ringing can be taxing. He sits with the kettle twelve to sixteen hours a day, every day except Sunday, from the week before Thanksgiving through Christmas Eve. The Salvation Army first began collecting donations in the late 1800s. The red-kettle campaign is the organization’s primary fundraiser, and all Hawai‘i donations go directly to providing meals and shelter for those in need, Christmas gifts for keiki (children), as well as year-round support for Salvation Army programs. Jamie describes himself as “houseless,” and has been relying on the Salvation Army to fulfill his basic needs. Standing watch over the kettle is his way of saying thank you. NOT-SO-SILENT NIGHT: “From the time he sits to the time he leaves, that bell is constant. People have even paid him to stop ringing for a little bit,” laughs Kevin Nagasaki, envoy for the Salvation Army Lahaina Lighthouse Corps. Jamie’s enthusiasm has literally paid off. “He’s brought in the most donations of any bell ringers on Maui,” says Kevin, “including those at some of the busier stores like Costco and Walmart. We’re talking about thousands of dollars more than anyone else.” He adds, “Jamie’s been coming to [The Salvation Army] for a long time. He cannot give us money, so those three months when he can do something in return, he does it wholeheartedly.” —Lehia Apana
Jingle, Kringle
Photo by Ben Ferrari
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In Season
talk story Photo by Karl Magnacca
Honey, Don’t
Local Buzz People worldwide are concerned about honeybee health. But how are our local pollinators faring? Karl Magnacca, the authority on Hawaiian Hylaeus, or yellow-faced bees, recently gave a presentation at the Pukalani Community Center to a packed audience. Attendees learned that Hawaiian bees face unique challenges. Hylaeus don’t live in hives, and aren’t susceptible to Colony Collapse Disorder or the varroa mites plaguing honeybees. Still, habitat loss and invasive ants and wasps have pushed many native bee species to the verge of extinction. Hawaiian Hylaeus are extraordinary examples of evolution. Several million years ago, a single female bee landed in Hawai‘i—probably blown here by a storm
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from Japan. She used sperm stored in her body to populate her new home. Over many generations, her descendants evolved into sixty-three distinct species. They inhabit every island ecosystem, from arid coastline to wet cloud forest. They are Hawai‘i’s only native bees; all others hitched rides here with humans. Some Hawaiian Hylaeus sport prominent yellow marks on their faces, but many are plain little black wisps that more closely resemble flies. Females build cavity nests in hollow stems, knotholes, beetle burrows, or holes in beached coral that they line with waterproof secretions. The small, solitary bees don’t make honey. So why should we care about these wee
invertebrates? Hawaiian Hylaeus are critical pollinators of native flora, says Magnacca. Many Hawaiian plants produce “tiny, unrecognizable, or totally bizarre flowers . . . nothing showy enough to attract a honeybee.” Meanwhile, Hawaiian bees prefer the minuscule inflorescences found on ‘iliahi (sandalwood), ‘ōlapa and other trees. “They love ‘akoko,” says Magnacca. “They swarm all over it.” A nineteenth-century British entomologist called Hawaiian Hylaeus “the most ubiquitous of any Hawaiian insects.” But as their favorite pollens have disappeared, so have the bees. We can help reverse this trend by replanting native shrubs and trees. —Shannon Wianecki
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presents the
‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.
An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants
DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Pa‘ina Building UH–Maui College 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului Wednesday, December 9 6 p.m. SOLD OUT—please call the Leis Family Class Act Restaurant, 984-3280, to be placed on the waiting list. $125 per person $25 from each dinner supports Maui Culinary Academy.
The theme for the dinner will be:
Spanish Wines Discover the exciting world of Spanish wines at the final ‘Aipono Wine Dinner for 2015. We will offer selections that showcase the versatility and freshness of wines derived from ancient soils, diverse geographies and varietals—from bubbly cavas, uplifting rosés and crisp whites, to hearty reds and luxurious sherries. Chef Tom Lelli and the students of Maui Culinary Academy are creating a Spanish feast in five courses to accompany this exploration of the wines of Spain.
Arts+Leisure NOVEMBER–DECEMBER 2015 » OUR PICKS FOR WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO » COMPILED BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL
Whale Season
E. LYMAN/ HIHWNMS (NOAA PERMIT #14682)
Maui’s most popular outof-town guests, humpback whales make their annual trek to Hawaiian waters in November and hang around until March (peak whale season runs from January to March). To get an up-closeand-personal look at these ocean giants, board a whalewatching cruise departing from Mā‘alaea or Lahaina harbors. If you’d prefer to catch a glimpse on solid ground, you can see whales frolicking from just about any beach in West or South Maui. You can also sign up for the annual Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Ocean Count and help researchers evaluate the current status of whales. Mark your calendars now: The counts take place the last Saturday of January, February and March, from 8 a.m. to 12:15 p.m. Find more information at HawaiiHump backWhale.Noaa.Gov.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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7th Annual Hāna Limu Festival
November 21
Limu (seaweed) is a vitamin- and mineral-rich ingredient used in many traditional Hawaiian recipes; it’s also a standalone (and salty) favorite for those who have acquired the taste. The annual Hāna Limu Festival celebrates the diverse uses and benefits of limu, and features food, live music, educational speakers and youth activities. For more about Hawaiian uses for seaweed, see “The Lure of Limu” (MNKO V.14, N.2). For more about the festival, email wehi@kalaola.com. Hāna Bay Beach Park, Hāna
Japanese New Year
December 28 Celebrate Japanese New Year! Festivities begin with one of the more dramatic methods of food preparation: turning rice into mochi. It takes careful choreography to avoid injury as one person reaches into steaming-hot rice and turns it before someone else strikes the concoction with a heavy wooden mallet. Learn about New Year’s customs and enjoy a bento dinner. Purchase tickets before December 21 by calling 808-283-9999. Wailuku Hongwanji Mission, 1828 Vineyard Street, Wailuku
Splat!
Skip the gym this Thanksgiving— burn off some calories (and some steam) with the in-laws on the paintball field. Compete as a team or individually; once you’re geared up, head out to the field and tag your opponents with capsules filled with paintballs (water-soluble dye in a gelatin shell). It might be a little messy, but it’s safe for you and Mother Nature: Paintballs are nontoxic and biodegradable. Or play pre-Turkey Day for a good cause. Maui Paintball will hold a food drive to benefit the Maui Food Bank on November 22. The first sixty people who arrive with six pounds of nonperishable food apiece play for free. Open daily. Maui Paintball 814 Honoapi‘ilani Highway, Olowalu |Reservations: 808-866-7034|MauiPaintball.com
Coconut Postcards Here’s a nutty but fun idea: Instead of a card, send a holiday coconut to mainland family and friends. Isle gift shops sell mail-ready coconuts. If you pick one yourself, from the yard or the grocery, you’ll need it checked by a Department of Agriculture inspector at Kahului Airport. Add an address and take it to the post office for mailing; postage is around $10. Got a lovely bunch of coconuts? Make an appointment with the Ag Dept. at 808-877-5261. (One couple sent fifty as wedding invitations!)
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Christmas Light Parade December 5 Moloka‘i’s annual Christmas-light parade and ho‘olaule‘a (festival) is small-town charm at its best. After sunset, a festive procession of floats, marching bands and plenty of ooh-and-ahh-worthy Christmas lights wends from Moloka‘i Fish & Dive down Ala Malama Avenue to Mitchell Pauole Community Center on Aiona Street. After the parade, head inside for food, live music, entertainment and a visit by a special guest. (Hint: He’s from the North Pole.) Decorate a Christmas tree, stocking or ornament and enter to win a prize. 90 Ainoa Street|Kaunakakai, Moloka‘i|Information: 808-553-3773
TOP RIGHT & LOWER LEFT: SHELBY LYNCH; MIDDLE LEFT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI PHOTOGRAPHY; BOTTOM RIGHT: MOLOKA‘I ISLAND FOUNDATION
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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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WAIMOKU FALLS VIA PIPIWAI TRAIL
Reaching this remote East Maui setting is like finding a pot of gold at the end of an already spectacular rainbow. Hikers traverse two-mile Pipiwai Trail, cruising past bamboo forests and waterfalls before reaching 400-foot Waimoku Falls. The trail is gentle, but unfavorable weather can make it downright dangerous. Heed warning signs and common sense—avoid standing near the falls, as flash floods and slippery rocks can turn a gentle outing into something from a Survivor episode.
“Waimoku Falls proves that you don’t need to embark on some crazy jungle mission to find a spectacular waterfall. Because access is relatively simple, it’s something the family can enjoy together.”—Michael Haynes, Account Executive NEED TO KNOW Park at
Haleakalā National Park’s Kīpahulu Visitor Center (open 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.); then cross the road to reach the trailhead. The $10, three-day pass is good throughout Haleakalā National Park. Nps.gov/Hale/PlanYourVisit/ Kipahulu.htm Photo by Bob Bangerter
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10 GREAT
ADVENTURES (We know, because we picked ‘em.)
The toughest part of creating a list of Maui adventures? Narrowing it down. We’re here to help. Take these suggestions from those who live, work and play on Maui—our staffers. Now, get going. COMPILED BY LEHIA APANA
MauiMagazine.net
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LA NA‘I BACKROADING
The smallest of the six major Hawaiian Islands, Lāna‘i encompasses 141 square miles, of which just 30 are served by paved roads. Traversing the rest—hundreds of miles of bumpy backroads—requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle and an iron stomach. A companion who’s savvy at navigating wouldn’t hurt either. Be sure to check out the former fishing village of Kaunolū, the legend-laced Keahiakawelo, and the rugged Munroe Trail. NEED TO KNOW Expeditions (Go-Lanai.com) offers daily
ferries between Lahaina Harbor and Lāna‘i. Dollar Rent-a-Car (DollarLanai.com) offers Jeeps, which can be sold out weeks in advance; reserve yours early. Be sure someone—family, a friend, the front desk where you’re staying—knows your plans, as cellphone reception in some areas around the island is spotty at best. Finally, note that there’s no place to replenish supplies outside of Lāna‘i City, so pack accordingly. Photo by John Giordani
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“It always feels like an adventure— maybe because I’ve gotten lost more than once on those back roads. Seeing Keahiakawelo for the first time was magical. The wind there is a such palpable, even sentient, presence, that though ‘Garden of the Gods’ is a marketing label, I could believe it.” —Rita Goldman, Senior Editor
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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ADVENTURE
“The Haleakalā Ridge Trail [a.k.a. Skyline] is a family favorite. As you hike through the trees you can see and hear the endangered ‘i‘iwi flitting from bush to bush, traipse the pine-needle-covered earth, and sometimes find post mushrooms ready for harvesting.”—Becky Speere,
POLIPOLI SPRINGS STATE RECREATION AREA Polipoli is a hikers’ buffet, serving up an extensive trail system amid old-growth coniferous forests and sweeping views of neighboring islands. The recreation area is in off-the-beaten-path Kula; you may just encounter more wildlife than human life. NEED TO KNOW Seasonal pig and bird hunting is allowed here; be sure
to remain on the trail and wear bright clothing. Polipoli sits at more than 5,000 feet elevation, so dress warmly. Photo by John Giordani
Dining Editor
OUTRIGGER PADDLING AT KO‘IE‘IE FISHPOND, KI HEI Ancient Hawaiians were a clever bunch. Proof: Ko‘ie‘ie Fishpond. Originally built 400 to 500 years ago, this loko i‘a (fishpond) was a community lifeline that fed generations. Enclosed ponds had mākāhā, sluice gates, built into massive seawalls. Lashed together, the upright sticks were far enough apart to allow small fry into the pond, but too close for larger fish to pass back out once they grew fat. The nonprofit ‘Ao‘ao o Na Loko I‘a o Maui (Fishpond Association of Maui) is restoring this sea structure, and
invites visitors to explore the area. The ninety-minute canoe ride along the Kīhei coast opens with a Hawaiian chant, and includes history and cultural lessons by local experts. NEED TO KNOW Expect to get a little
wet. Paddlers must be fourteen or older, and able to swim. Hop aboard Monday, Wednesday or Friday from 8 to 9:30 a.m. Reservations required. $40 per person. Donations are encouraged, and support restoration efforts. MauiFishpond.com Photo by Glenn J. Barr
“Visiting Ko‘ie‘ie Fishpond is a win-win. Participants enjoy an intimate history lesson and sightseeing while supporting an incredibly worthy project.” —Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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CYCLING UPCOUNTRY
“The hilly terrain make this ride a challenge, but the hardest part might be staying focused. You’ll enjoy what is arguably the best panorama on Maui—unobstructed views of the South Maui coastline, plus the islands of Lāna‘i, Molokini and Kaho‘olawe in the distance.” —Lehia Apana, Managing Editor
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Maui is the stuff of cyclists’ dreams: miles of paved roads, postcard-perfect scenery and comfortable climate year-round. One of our favorite routes begins near ʻUlupalakua Ranch Store, then heads southeast towards Kahikinui. Like a giant green umbrella, the massive trees lining the road near the ranch store provide a last respite from the sun before you hit miles of open road. Cycle as far as you like—just remember that the ride back to your starting point is mostly uphill. Upon your return, grab a famous elk burger at the ranch store, or head across the street for a complimentary MauiWine tasting or guided tours of the historic winery estate. NEED TO KNOW Maui Cyclery (GoCyclingMaui. com) in Pā‘ia offers group rides throughout Maui, including this Upcountry route. Prefer to explore it solo? Krank Cycles (KrankMaui.com) in nearby Makawao can outfit riders with a road bike and other necessary gear. Photo by Bob Bangerter
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KEONE‘O ‘IO BAY (LA PEROUSE BAY)
This is where the wild things are. Set at the island’s southernmost tip, where smooth pavement surrenders to blankets of serrated a‘a lava fields, Keone‘ō‘io Bay is one of Maui’s last untamed frontiers. Coral reefs fringe the coast. Beyond them, turtles, spinner dolphins and migrating whales thrive in these ombre-hued waters. On dry land, explore an ebony expanse formed by Haleakalā’s most recent eruption, said to have been in the late 1700s. Keone‘ō‘io was once home to some 300,000 Hawaiians; archeological sites are all that remain.
“I took my visiting aunt to Keone‘ō‘io Bay. It’s fun to watch people’s reaction, driving them through Maui’s last lava flow. The area also sports gorgeous views up the mountain: the path of the flow leading down, and up to the rolling green hills of Haleakalā’s southern flank.” —Conn Brattain, Style Editor
NEED TO KNOW Closed-toe shoes are a must to protect your feet from
the jagged terrain. The sun can be fierce; bring a hat, sunscreen, lip balm, and plenty of water. Respect archeological sites by staying within designated paths. Photo by Bob Bangerter
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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ZIPLINING
This is one adventure that will literally sweep you off your feet— then launch you through the sky like a modern-day Tarzan. Add in Maui’s world-famous vistas, and you’ve got one heck of a sightseeing tour. NEED TO KNOW With a handful of zipline tours across the
island, each offers a unique adventure. Opened in 2002, Skyline Eco-Adventures (Zipline.com) was the first zipline company in the country; try the Zip n’ Dip tour, where guests can splash in a natural mountain pool. Or soar with a partner at Pi‘iholo Ranch Adventures (PiiholoZipline.com), home to Maui’s longest sideby-side zipline. Photo Courtesy of Skyline Eco-Adventures
“I avoided ziplining for years due to my fear of heights, but finally decided to go for it recently. It’s exhilarating to fly through the air and feel the speed while taking in scenic views. I highly recommend ziplining—even if you’re afraid of heights!” —Adelle Lennox, Website Manager
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MOLOKA‘I DAY TRIP Moloka‘i’s beauty lies in what you won’t find there. This rural and largely Native Hawaiian community has held tightly to its traditions and subsistence ways of life. That means empty beaches, open roads, and plenty of character. Highlights include Kalaupapa National Historic Park, Hālawa Valley, and Pāpōhaku Beach.
NEED TO KNOW The Molokai Princess (MolokaiFerry.com) leaves Lahaina Harbor Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 6 a.m., and departs Moloka‘i for the return trip at 5 p.m., with travel time approximately ninety minutes. Be aware that voyages may be cancelled up to forty-eight hours in advance if there’s insufficient ridership. Mokulele Airlines (MokuleleAirlines.com) and Makani Kai Air (MakaniKaiAir.com) offer daily flights between Maui and Moloka‘i. Photo by Forest & Kim Starr
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“The shoreline road leading to Hālawa Valley from Kaunakakai skims the ocean’s edge so closely in certain areas that it is impossible not to be seduced by the numerous fishponds and still, shallow coves. Roaming around the island reveals a microcosm of Maui’s larger climate differences. The lushness of Hālawa Valley contrasts with the dry, red and dusty town Maunaloa. I would go back and stay a night or two to better explore the splendor of Moloka‘i.”—John Giordani, Art Director Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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MAKAWAO STATE FOREST RESERVE
Run, walk, or roll—your choice. Makawao State Forest Reserve is an amusement park for outdoorsy types. The experience begins before you step foot on a single trail, as the aroma of Cook pines and eucalyptus trees entices you into the forest, which is also filled with native plant species like halepepe and māmaki. Or see it on two wheels along the Kahakapao Loop Trail—ten miles of twisting, rolling mountain-biking terrain. Experienced riders can zoom down the one-way Pineapple Express trail, while kids join the fun at a practice area designed especially for them. Bonus: Fido is welcome, too.
“Stroll through easy-to-follow trails and stop at a picnic table for an al fresco lunch.”—Laura Lewark, Director of Sales NEED TO KNOW
Wet weather can cause slippery conditions. Krank Cycles (KrankMaui. com) in nearby Makawao has a fleet of rental bikes, bike trail maps, and other necessary gear. Photo by Paradise Aerial Photography
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“I get butterflies from flying across the water on the boat. Besides having an exciting adventure, potentially catching a meal is a nice bonus!” —Shelby Lynch, Assistant Designer
DEEP-SEA FISHING
Sometimes it’s not enough to wait for fish—you need to travel to them. Offshore anglers can hitch a ride on one of Maui’s many sport-fishing boats, which offer open-ocean trolling throughout the year. Local waters are home to several pelagic billfish species, including yellowfin and bigeye ‘ahi (tuna), and ono (wahoo). Expeditions vary greatly—from private luxury charters to more economical shared boat trips. NEED TO KNOW Leave the bananas at home—legend has it they’re bad luck for
fishing, and some captains would rather not chance it. Most fishing boats depart from Lahaina or Mā‘alaea harbors. Check out Start Me Up Sportfishing (SportFishingMaui. com) in Lahaina or Strike Zone (StrikeZoneMaui.com) in Mā‘alaea. Photo by Ryan Siphers Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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Now that federal funds to restore “the Target Island” have dried up, Kaho‘olawe’s caretakers are scrambling to maintain the work of healing this sacred place. 38
You don’t have to be very old to remember when bomb blasts shook the windows and rattled the silverware of homes all along South and West Maui. Anyone conscious during the late 1970s can recall with a thrill the rising up of Hawaiians and their supporters to demand that the bombing stop. Today, schoolkids learn about the Hawaiian Renaissance, when the indigenous people dared to tell the U.S. Navy: “It’s not okay to destroy a Hawaiian island. Put it back the way you found it.” To the uninformed, it looks as though the Navy fixed a few things and left. The truth is more complex. Kaho‘olawe is the eighth largest Hawaiian island, one of four that constitute the County of Maui. It sends no representatives to the state legislature, though, because Kaho‘olawe is both uninhabited and uninhabitable. Too much UXO— unexploded ordnance. The United States began bombing the island during the 1920s, not long after territory-hood, escalated during World War
II, then increasingly through the Cold War. Today you can’t stick a shovel in the ground without risk of blowing up. Even in areas cleared to the depth of four feet—9 percent of the island— erosion exposes previously undiscovered bombs. And erosion continues to despoil Kaho‘olawe. Nearly two million tons of soil are washed into the sea each year, leaving behind slick slopes of hardpan, barren and bloody red. Yet this callused and stern terrain includes some 3,000 features listed with the National Register of Historic Places. From the summit of its single volcanic peak—one-seventh the height of the mountain six miles away, sunrise-blocking Haleakalā—you can observe the winds and currents that rush between the islands. Kaho‘olawe was once a navigational training center for Hawaiians; its name was Kanaloa, god of the sea. Some 800 documented archeological sites provide evidence that people lived, fished, farmed, and worshiped here before Western contact.
BOB BANGERTER
Story by Paul Wood
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Kaho‘olawe’s environmental disaster started in 1793 with the introduction of goats, which scrambled over the fragile dry hillsides, gobbling native vegetation for the next sixty years. In 1858, the Kingdom issued ranching leases for the island. The ranchers planted kiawe (mesquite) trees, which produced good feed, but sucked up groundwater and desiccated their surroundings. By the early 1900s, not even famed Maui cattleman Angus McPhee could make his Kaho‘olawe ranch viable. Knowing that U.S. warships had been doing target practice nearby, he subleased his ranch to the Navy in May 1941. Seven months later, all hell broke loose at Pearl Harbor. In 1953 President Dwight Eisenhower ordered the island reserved for U.S. Navy purposes. But he also directed the Navy to eradicate all clovenhoofed animals, cooperate with reforestation efforts, and “when the island was no longer needed . . . and without cost to the Territory of Hawaii, make the island safe for human habitation.” Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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There’s the rub. The possibility of making Kaho‘olawe safe diminished with each ensuing conflict. During the Korean War the Navy strafed the island and airdropped bombs. The Vietnam era required mock surface-to-air bombing targets. The Cold War demanded increased armed readiness. The island became a kind of mayhem museum, with bombs as large as 3,000 pounds jabbed into the earth. In 1965, a medley of megablasts reconfigured the coastline and further compromised the island’s ability to retain rainwater. Effective local resistance started in 1976, when a crew of native activists from Maui and Moloka‘i crossed the channel and trespassed on the island. The Navy chased them away, but two young defiants from Moloka‘i—Walter Ritte and Emmett Aluli—hid in the shrubbery. Arrested and released, Ritte and Aluli led a second invasion. This time, the Navy blinked. It agreed to allow limited access for cultural purposes. Then Aluli filed a federal suit to stop the bombing altogether. As that suit simmered, Moloka‘i-born musician and orator George Helm spoke to the state legislature, procuring a resolution on behalf of Kaho‘olawe that he took to an audience with President Jimmy Carter. One month later Helm and Maui youth Kimo Mitchell staged a nighttime illegal access of Kaho‘olawe and died at sea. Their deaths sparked conspiracy theories and made them martyrs to the cause. Still the Navy invited its RIMPAC allies to join them in bombing the island. In 1980, Aluli’s lawsuit succeeded, resulting in a historic consent decree and order. It required the Navy to protect cultural sites, clear surface ordnance from 10,000 acres (about a third of the island), limit the bombing to one-third of the island, and allow monthly accesses (huaka‘i) to a nonprofit, essentially Hawaiian organization called the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana (family). The PKO set up its base camp on the island’s north shore, at Hakioawa, an area rich with archeological sites. These monthly accesses required swimming in from offshore boats, raw camping, and immersion in Hawaiian ritual and sweat labor, and still do to this day. Pat Saiki stopped the bombing in 1990. Taking advantage of election-year finagling during the George H.W. Bush Administration, Big Island-born U.S. Congresswoman Saiki cut a deal that compelled Washington to give Kaho‘olawe back to the State of Hawai‘i. In 1993, the deal became law. Guided by the deft U.S. Senator Daniel Inouye, President Bill Clinton signed a Department of Defense Appropriations Act that included a memorandum of understanding about UXO cleanup and ecological restoration. The Navy killed every goat on Kaho‘olawe and prepared to unbomb the island it had bombed for decades. The limit on what the Navy could do was fixed by the size of the Congressional appropriation: $400 million, minus $44 million set aside for the State of Hawai‘i.
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On February 6, 1965, the U.S. Navy launched Operation Sailor Hat, a series of test explosions on the island’s southwestern tip. The first, Shot Bravo, detonated 500 tons of TNT and caused shock waves visible in the waters along Kaho‘olawe’s coast. Above: Fifty years later, the resulting crater is an eloquent reminder of that blast.
Given this $44 million trust fund, the legislature created a state entity—the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission—to manage the island and its surrounding waters. In 2014 KIRC had seven commissioners, an executive director, and a staff of fewer than twenty employees. Since the end of the Navy’s cleanup operation in 2004, KIRC has spent about $3 million a year to carry out its mandate, and now that fund is gone. “We’re trying to create a watershed that hasn’t been there for 200 years,” KIRC director Michael Naho‘opi‘i said recently. “If we can replant the hardpan, rain will go into the ground rather than run off.
HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES; MIDDLE: U.S. NAVY; BOTTOM: FOREST & KIM STARR
Between 1858 and 1941, a scattering of ranchers ran cattle on Kaho‘olawe. Their operations accelerated the environmental degradation begun in 1793 with the introduction of goats.
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IAN LIND
In 1976, as a group of young activists prepared to sail from Moloka‘i to Kaho‘olawe, photographer Ian Lind received a call from Gail Kawaipuna Prejean, head of the Hawaiian Coalition of Native Claims, asking him to accompany them and document the attempt. The photos at right are from that journey. Top: George Helm (left), and Dr. Emmett Aluli, two of the nine who reached the disputed island, even as the Coast Guard turned most others away. Right: Karla Villalba and Walter Ritte pull the boat ashore on Kaho‘olawe— and into history.
When that happens, people can live again on the island.” But such work, much of it done by volunteers in blazing sunlight and sandblasting winds, requires ingenuity. If you can’t dig a hole without wondering whether you’re about to blow your head off, you have to invent aboveground methods of reforestation. You make a circle of stone in the right spot, and let winds drop topsoil into the ring, ready for a potted plant. You chainsaw kiawe trees out of a natural basin, shred the trees, and plant native shrubs in the mulch. Soon the basin begins to hold runoff, forming a little wetland. You build a water-catchment system that manages to collect half a million gallons a year from the usually rainless sky, then run drip lines into milelong, rock-lined mulch beds planted with indigenous dryland forest species. You stop runoff with rock-filled burlap dams. You fly bales of native pili grass from Moloka‘i, fix the bales on top of slick red hardpan, cover them with chicken wire so they won’t blow away, and pray for rain. Naho‘opi‘i keeps photos of these modest successes on his smart phone. A row of nine little rooted shrubs: “See? The greening of Kaho‘olawe is happening a lot faster than I thought it would.” Naho‘opi‘i is a hefty man with a robust and smiling disposition. “That’s my life—to figure ways around things,” he says. And most of that figuring has focused on the Target Island. As a Kamehameha Schools student in 1981, he went on the first access that allowed teenagers. After graduating, he attended the U.S. Naval Academy in Annapolis and trained as a submarine officer. In 1993 he got a call from the admiral at Pearl Harbor, who was looking for a native Hawaiian line officer to serve as commanding officer for Kaho‘olawe during the most contentious days of PKO agitation. His main directive from on high was this: “I don’t ever want to see Kaho‘olawe in a bad light.” When Naho‘opi‘i, in uniform, met with the PKO activists at their Hakioawa base camp, he recognized many of them as his former schoolmates. From that point till today he has remained involved with and committed to both sides, both the grassroots and the governmental. He is the bridge man. In 1995 he left the military and spent ten years managing the island cleanup as a civilian. He worked with Parsons and UXB International, the companies contracted by the Navy to get the work done. He became mo‘olono, a priest of Lono, to perpetuate the annual Makahiki ceremonies on Kaho‘olawe with the PKO. He later accepted the KIRC director position, taking “a huge pay cut, because I wanted to do something meaningful in my life.” He smiles as he admits that his is a difficult job, begging the legislature for money, and fielding the commissioners’ frustrations. “I get beat up a lot in meetings.” But he’s committed to the cause. “I just couldn’t leave the island the way it is.” “The way it is” is far from ideal. The Navy pledged to clear 100
From left: Emmett Aluli, Ellen Miles, Kimo Aluli, Karla Villalba, Stephen Morse and Gail Prejean recoup on the beach. Right: Planting a tree in the sand was largely symbolic, as Lind later noted. The message: Life, not bombing. Note the Coast Guard vessel on the horizon.
On February 14, 1976—Valentine’s Day—the fledgling activists meet in a Maui Community College classroom to strategize against the bombings. George Helm and Walter Ritte flank the door; Emma DeFries sits in the corner. On the floor at right is Ritte’s wife, Loretta. Emmett Aluli chats with reporters at the old Federal Building and Courthouse in Honolulu in 1976, after two landings on Kaho‘olawe. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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Current Clearance Map
PĀPĀKĀ
Tier II (Subsurface Clearance) Tier III (Surface Clearance)
KŪHEIA/KAULANA
NAKIOAWA
Uncleared Areas
HONOKO‘A
AHUPŪ KANAPOU
KEALAIKAHIKI KŪNAKA/NA‘ALAPA
The map at left shows how much terrain still lies uncleared of ordnance—a sobering fact that KIRC safety crews continue to confront.
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Volunteers from hālau (hula troupe) Ka Pā Hula O Ka Lei Lehua work on erosion control on Kaho‘olawe’s hardpan. Not all the damage originated on the island. This marine debris washed ashore at Kanapou Bay.
A KIRC ocean staffer checks a transect for coral growth.
FROM TOP: KELLY MCHUGH (2); DEAN TOKISHI; JENNIFER VANDER VEUR; MAP: SHELBY LYNCH
percent of the surface and 30 percent of the subsurface. After more than seven years of earnest, almost frenetic efforts, the results were, correspondingly, less than 75 percent and less than 10 percent. The work involved flotillas of contracted helicopters moving hired personnel and equipment daily between Kahului and Kaho‘olawe. The paperwork was monumental—environmental impact studies, transects, data processing. A traditional cleanup will focus on 500 acres, says Naho‘opi‘i, but this work encompassed a 28,800-acre island. They mapped and studied thousands of 100-meter-square grids for the state to prioritize, and documented more than 800 archeological sites. Then the whole operation simply ran out of money. For Congress and frankly most everyone else, the attention has wandered away to other matters. The Navy’s website says its operation purged more than 100,000 ordnance items, 10 million pounds of metal, and 14,000 tires; installed more than 8,000 boundary posts, a 9.6-mile road (cost: $8.8 million), and some $10 million in equipment and facilities, all of which it handed to KIRC in the official transfer of access control at the end of 2003. At the transfer ceremony, staged on the grounds of ‘Iolani Palace in Honolulu, Rear Admiral Barry McCullough announced: “I am very pleased with the quality of the work done here. The efforts of all the workers and this team will allow the State of Hawai‘i to provide safe, meaningful access to the island for what the State has in mind.” Michele McLean presently serves as chairwoman of KIRC. By day she is deputy planning director for the County of Maui and is a veteran of government work on county, state, and federal levels. Reflecting on KIRC’s use of its trust fund, she states firmly that she has never seen more efficient and effective use of appropriated moneys. But the island is still derelict. Now that the federal trust fund has run out, it is time for the state legislature to pony up. The response has been feeble—$2 million total for 2016 and 2017, a sum that cuts KIRC’s meager budget by two-thirds. This will certainly necessitate layoffs in its little staff of a dozen and a half, and cripple the commission’s ability to recruit and transport volunteer labor. Everyone who visits Kaho‘olawe is moved by its rugged beauty, its timeless aura, and its great need—but few can make the trip. So KIRC has created a public site next to the Kīhei Small Boat Harbor, where it stages monthly public-awareness events, and it is appealing for financial support. In one month last summer, KIRC raised $38,000, well short of its $100,000 goal. The newest KIRC commissioner, appointed in Fall 2014, is Hōkūlani Holt, who in previous years helped the PKO establish MauiMagazine.net
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cultural protocols for visits to Kaho‘olawe. When she joined the commission, she says, “I was shocked at the finances. To spend down the trust fund to almost nothing, and to have no other plan! I went, ‘I must be missing something. Everyone thinks this is okay.’” KIRC chairwoman McLean expressed a similar puzzlement. The federal trust fund was never meant to be an endowment, but the state could have managed the money in some way other than to spend it down. Likewise, the State could have refused to take the island back in such ragged condition. “But we accepted it,” she said. “Now [if we protest to the federal government] we don’t really have a leg to stand on. The legislature, the administration, the activists, they were all so delighted to get it back that they didn’t say, ‘Wait a minute. . . .’” KIRC’s mood, though, is not blameful, nor is it determined that UXO will ever be cleared from the island. “It would [cost] hundreds of millions, if not billions, to be able to say that the bombs have been substantially cleared. Certainly we will never be able to say that the waters are safe,” says McLean. More important: habitat restoration. Activists envision Kaho‘olawe as a refuge for endemic plants and wildlife. A sanctuary for seabirds, now that rising sea levels are drowning nesting sites on northwest seamounts and islets. An underwater shelter for the replenishment of fish populations. A living site of traditional Hawaiian culture. A model of alternative energy practices. Above all, a caution, and a reminder about right living. “The islands are like family members,” says Holt. “How can I ignore my grandparents and set them adrift? Kaho‘olawe is not just for the Hawaiians. We as humans need a wild place. Kaho‘olawe is for all of us.” Ironically, manmade disaster has spared the island from the creeping sprawl of civilization. In time, Kaho‘olawe might become something other than an emblem of failure—a symbol of hope.
Get Involved •Make a charitable donation to the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission, or the Kaho‘olawe Rehabilitation Trust Fund at GoFundMe.com/AlohaKahoolawe2015. •Visit KIRC’s website for: » a wish list of equipment to support KIRC’s mission; » details on attending Mahina‘ai, KIRC’s free monthly educational hikes, Hawaiian music, and more; » free teaching materials, chants and historical documents. •Schedule a workday with your club, classroom or other group at KIRC’s Kīhei site, where Kaho‘olawe experts are developing a community learning space. •Testify to support KIRC funding when the state legislature goes into session in January. Look for announcements at Facebook.com/KircMaui, and register for hearing notices and submit testimony at Capitol.Hawaii.gov. Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission 811 Kolu Street, Suite 201 Wailuku, HI 96793 808-243-5020 Kahoolawe.Hawaii.gov
Mike Naho‘opi‘i, KIRC director
FOREST & KIM STARR
Ancient, silent, Kaho‘olawe looks out toward Maui’s southern coast—and to a future whose determination lies beyond its own shores.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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« MAUI STYLE »
STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI
20 things we ♥ about Maui
Maui is the Goldilocks of islands. Not too hot, too cold, too quiet, or too chaotic . . . just right. Whatever climate or stimulation you crave, you can find it here, somewhere between the sea and summit. In the morning, you can dig your toes into mud while chasing waterfalls and still clean up in time to dine beside celebrities in Wailea. You can drop off the map on a Kahakuloa taro farm owned by a Grammy Awardwinning guitarist. You can bodysurf on an empty beach and later squeeze in beside multitudes to watch a movie under the stars. You can string together a thousand perfect Maui days without trying very hard. Every year, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi shines a spotlight on the details that distinguish this paradise. For every item on this list, twenty more wait in the wings, ready to woo you.
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Kiwikiu The saffron Maui parrotbill is endemic to the Valley Isle; it exists nowhere else on Earth. Its recently given name, kiwikiu, is both onomatopoeic— sounding like the bird’s chipper call—and a blend of the Hawaiian words kiwi (curved—like its beak) and kiu, referring to the cold, brisk kiukiu breeze that blows across the forests above Makawao, where the bird lives. The chivalrous parrotbill woos its mate with worms and grubs. Only around 500 of these distinctive honeycreepers remain in East Maui’s remote rainforest. Let’s cherish every one by supporting the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project’s habitat restoration efforts. Photo by Mike Neal
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Pa‘i‘ai Sticky and super nutritious, this Hawaiian snack (pronounced pa-ee-eye) is the precursor to poi. It’s made from hand-pounded taro, has the consistency of mochi, and tastes like earthy, toothsome love. Get yours from Noho‘ana Farm in Waikapū. Photo by Jason Moore
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Jaws A few times a year, sea conditions converge to create a massive surf break at Pe‘ahi, known around the world as Jaws. In the predawn hours, jittery surfers wax boards and ready their jet skis, helicopters zoom in for jawdropping shots, and thundering waves pound the coastline, audible to those still in their beds miles away. Photo by Bob Bangerter
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Historic ‘Īao Theater A relic from the Roaring Twenties, ‘Īao Theater is the state’s oldest playhouse. Over the years, everyone from Frank Sinatra to Bob Hope graced its stage. Today it’s the home of Maui OnStage, the community theater troupe responsible for rousing productions of Chicago and Annie Get Your Gun. Rumors claim it’s also home to a benevolent ghost named Emma. Illustration by Matt Foster
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Coming home to Maui When the pilot announces the plane’s descent, locals begin shedding layers: off come the coats, scarves, and socks. The plane roars to a stop a few lengths short of Stable Road Beach, and all feels right with the world. Photo by John Giordani
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Waihe‘e Ridge Trail Yellow and salmon ‘ōhi‘a blossoms decorate this steep, uphill slog. Huff and puff your way to the top for dizzying views of Central Maui, and, when the clouds part, the wild heart of West Maui’s mountain, Mauna Kahalawai. (Read more about it in “Trial by Trail,” MNKO V16 N4.) Photo by Conn Brattain
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Pardee and Betsy Erdman For more than fifty years the Erdmans have proved the best neighbors one could hope for—running a sustainable cattle ranch, supporting local farms, fighting invasive species, and sponsoring the restoration of rare native forest—all on their own dime. When Hurricane Iselle blasted through their ranch, they revved up their chainsaws, and kept working. We tip our hat to the Erdmans’ generosity, integrity, and resilience. Photo courtesy of Sempra U.S. Gas & Power
MAUI STYLE
radiOpio From the tiny tower atop the Pā‘ia Youth & Cultural Center, aspiring disc jockeys broadcast commercial-free radio. Turns out these ‘ōpio (youngsters) have sophisticated taste: tune in to 88.9 FM for everything from punk rock to samba and soul. Photo by Nina Kuna
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8 ArtMixx What happens when a new wave of young artists takes over the Maui Arts & Cultural Center’s amphitheater and gallery? Free parties with interactive art, fire dancing, futuristic fashion, and mind-bending projection mapping—the creative medium of Maui’s avant-garde. Photo by Ben Ferrari
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Hāna Relay Why run in athletic shorts when you can wear a tutu or a spacesuit? For forty-four years, the Valley Isle Road Runners have sponsored the most entertaining relay race in the Pacific. Competitors sport themed costumes and pound fifty-two miles of pavement from Kahului Airport to shady Hāna, where the after party lasts well into the next day. Photos by Sue Hudelson
Here’s Matt Foster, illustrating his running prowess. Find more of his illustrations on pages 18, 46, 49 and 114.
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Lahaina Jodo Mission Buddha The first Japanese nationals arrived in Hawai‘i in 1868. One hundred years later, a twelvefoot-tall Buddha followed, to commemorate the issei (first wave of immigrants) and their descendants. The three-and-a-half-ton statue sits with its back to West Maui’s Mauna Kahalawai, gazing serenely at the gilded Pacific. Photo by Eric Olbrich
Honu at Ho‘okipa In recent years, green sea turtles (honu) have returned to the east edge of Ho‘okipa Beach to bask—right where surfers dash into swells and keiki (kids) build sandcastles. Why did these salty, stoic reptiles choose such a busy stretch of sand for their naps? We don’t know, but we’re delighted they did, and give them ample room. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker
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Ka Mālama dinner at Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a The third Thursday of every month, Chef Mike Lofaro and Hawaiian Cultural Ambassador Kainoa Horcajo serve a five-course foraged meal inspired by the Hawaiian moon calendar. Guests feast on ‘opihi (limpets), akule (scad), limu (seaweed), and other local delicacies done up in gourmet style. Photo courtesy of Grand Wailea
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14 ‘Ulalena rain Borne on a twilight wind, this golden-red mist moistens fields from Pi‘iholo to Hāmākuapoko. Photo by Conn Brattain
Menehune Mayhem Big-wave bomber Ian Walsh’s annual keiki surf contest is more than just a chance for groms to show off their sickest tricks. The all-day celebration features surfboard-shaping workshops, scavenger hunts, taiko drumming, and prizes for scholastic achievement. A+++ Illustration by Matt Foster
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Hāli‘imaile movie night On certain Saturday nights, Maui’s former film commissioner, Harry Donenfeld, transforms Hali‘imaile Distillery into a DIY drive-in movie theater. Free family fun! BYOP—bring your own popcorn. Check the distillery’s Facebook page for info. Photo by Harry Donenfeld Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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Haleakalā snow Every so often, a dusting of white cloaks the 10,023-foot summit: proof that Poli‘ahu, the Hawaiian snow goddess, has come to play with her younger sister Lilinoe, goddess of mist and rain. The snow predictably melts by midday—but if you’re quick, you may catch sight of the sisters sledding. Painting by Linda Rowell Stevens
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Lee Cataluna Eh, Lee. Why you wen’ talk about us? No ack. We know. We recka-nize ourselves in your award-winning columns, books, and plays—‘specially Folks You Meet in Long’s, and your hi-lar-i-ous novel Three Years on Doreen’s Sofa. Some smaht you are, coming from Wailuku. Eh, Lee. We proud.
Scooter dives Maui Dreams Dive Company rents underwater scooters—all you really need to feel like a Navy SEAL or secret submarine agent. Grab hold of one and shoot across the sea floor to investigate sunken ships, frogfish, and sea stars. Photo courtesy of Maui Dreams Dive Company
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Roadside fish for sale Fresh ‘ahi, dried aku. Local fishermen hook us up. Photo by John Giordani
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« AT HOME »
Under the S
The house sits on a Wailea hillside above Maui’s sunny southern coast, its architecture firmly rooted in Mediterranean design. The night the owner gave them a tour, Ed and Diane Lane made an offer on the home. Mind you, it wasn’t on the market. 52
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e Southern Sun For one Maui artist, home is a study in light.
Story by RITA GOLDMAN
Photography by MIEKO HORIKOSHI
Upstairs, the master suite and lānai bask in sun, shade, and expansive views. Downstairs, the airy home opens to a pool deck made for entertaining. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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« AT HOME »
Top left: “The kitchen isn’t huge, but it works well for me,” says Diane. “I have nooks and crannies for everything, and good counter space.” High counters, too—the five-foot-eleven lady of the house had them raised to suit her. The Lanes added the backsplash and a kitchen island topped with eucalyptus and wenge wood. Above the Viking gas range hang hand-forged brass utensils from Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts, replicas of those used in Colonial America. Top right: A staircase does double duty as art gallery for Ed’s exuberant paintings. A renovation replaced the home’s original slate flooring with ceramic tile. Right: The kitchen’s cozy breakfast nook is too small for entertaining, but the dining table on the covered lānai comfortably serves ten. Above it, the upstairs lānai provides additional space for parties.
At the time, the Lanes were living in the Polo Beach Club condominium they’d purchased as a vacation property in 1986, and moved into full time in 1994 so that Ed could indulge his lifelong dream of becoming a fine artist. A second Polo Beach condo became his studio. By 2004, the Lanes wanted a home that would function as a place both to live and work in, a house that was open and filled with light, with ample wall space for hanging art. “I wanted lots of pocket doors for indoor-outdoor living,” Diane recalls. “That was not easy to find in our price range.” After a long and fruitless search, the hard-to-find house practically fell into their laps. “My hairdresser knew the owners,” says Diane. “They had taken the house off the market. She arranged for us to see it that evening. It was love at first sight. The house had almost everything on our checklist, and the charm of Mediterranean style. We had owned a historic Mediterranean home in Phoenix.” The Lanes made an offer that night, and the next morning the owners accepted. Three months later, Diane and Ed had sold their condominiums and moved in. “I say thank you every day to the architect, Owen Tan,” says
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Diane. “He built the house for himself, but it feels like he designed it for us. Its clean lines also make it a perfect backdrop for Ed’s art. It has amazing wall space for such an airy home. From the moment we walked through the entrance arbor, we were hooked.” It wasn’t the first time the Lanes had made a major life decision in mere minutes. In 1960, Ed was working for a Phoenix advertising agency when a new hire arrived. “When I saw Diane walk in the door,” he says, “I thought, ‘Look what God has sent me.’” Six weeks later, they were engaged. In 1962, the Lanes decided to open their own agency. “I had a 1958 MGA,” says Ed. “It was all I owned. I sold it for $2,500, and bought two typewriters and a mimeograph machine. We started the agency with that. I had enough left over to buy a $75 Fiat. That car looked so disreputable, when I’d go to see a client, I had to park two or three blocks away.” During Ed’s tenure as head of E.B. Lane, the agency won numerous national awards; in 1995, the Phoenix Ad Club named him Ad Man of the Year. But Ed still yearned to paint. They turned the agency over to their
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From the upstairs lānai, you can see clear to the horizon, or take a gander at a pair of lavish faux swans that migrate to the swimming pool for parties.
Middle left: Paul Davis and Hal Jobe, of Latitudes Garden, gave the living room a festive air with a holiday chandelier. (Paul and Hal also crafted the swans.) Middle right: In the master bathroom, the Lanes replaced matching pedestal sinks with a single counter topped with leather granite. They also switched from marble floors to less slippery ceramic tile that is accented, like the mirror, with aquamarine glass. Left: The upstairs lānai clinched the Lanes’ decision to purchase the house; it’s become a favorite spot for cocktail hour and sunset dinners.
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« AT HOME »
son, Beau, and move to Maui. “I hit the island running,” says Ed. “I would pile everything in my Jeep and go out and paint.” He developed a style he dubbed “the art of exuberance”: vibrant, colorful canvases that he layers first with red, then adds people and scenes of Maui, Tahiti and other enchanting places the Lanes have traveled. Ed’s studio occupies one of the home’s three bedrooms. Half the size of his former studio, it’s filled with canvases and cabinets, Thunbergia drapes the entry arbor that leads to a spacious lānai, where lion-headed water features pour liquid sound into pond and pool. A life-sized Kuan Yin welcomes guests.
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Clockwise from top: The studio is a happy clutter of art supplies and paintings. Lotuspatterned pillows echo the hand-crafted quilt the Lanes purchased on a monthlong trip to Egypt. The master bedroom is a study in internationalism, reflecting their travels. Above the bed hangs a sunflower field Ed painted on a visit to France. To the right of the bed is another Ed Lane painting, this one of women encountered in Tahiti.
easels and supplies. Paintings in various stages of completion cover the walls clear up to the ceiling. “It’s a contortionist’s dream to set up a big painting here,” he quips. What the room lacks in space, it more than makes up for in ambiance. The north and east walls have sliding glass doors that open onto gardens and admit diffused sunlight. In 1994, Diane began delving into art, taking classes in silk painting that blended with her interests in fashion and fabric design. From 1995 through 2009, she created custom, hand-painted clothing under her Leilani Silks label, and had her work accepted into exhibitions. Now that she’s retired, the bedroom that once served as her studio is a guest room, and Diane indulges her passions for gardening, cooking and entertaining. Gardens wrap around the Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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We Are. The Voice of Maui Luxury Real Estate. WAILEA | KAPALUA | KULA | HANA | LANA'I
RARE
Oceanfront Property Privacy, Mature Fruit Orchards, Builder Ready
A SPECTACULAR 2-ACRE, beachfront lot located in an exclusive and very private community in Olowalu. The parcel has an approved County of Maui farm plan, breath-taking views of La¯na‘i, Kaho‘olawe and Maui’s south shore. The owners will enjoy a lifetime of endless tropical sunsets and gentle breezes. The parcel is builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus, mango and coconut orchard, features large monkeypod shade trees, and a private dual water system for domestic and agricultural uses. The perfect location for your private, oceanfront Maui home. Conveniently located directly across from Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu and midway between Wailuku and Lahaina. A MUST-SEE for the discriminating buyer.
SPECTACULAR
Kapalua Acreages With Stunning Ocean and Mountain Views
Honolua Ridge - Phase I, Lot #12: 81 Keoawa Place, Kapalua: 9.298 acres perched above Honolua Bay with a private access road that drops you right in front of one of Maui’s most alluring and special bays. Stunning views of Moloka‘i and the West Maui coast. The perfect location to build the home of your dreams surrounded by lush tropical gardens. The views are endless, the air is crisp and the beaches and golf are only minutes away.
Offered at $1,295,000
Property is offered at $5,800,000.
Honolua Ridge - Phase II, Lot #22: 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua: 6.259 acres of breathtaking views. From your house site you’ll enjoy endless views of nearby islands, tropical sunsets and the deep blue waters of the Pailolo Channel. The site is situated near the top of the development, giving you easy access to pristine mountain hikes, the beaches of Kapalua and enough land to create your own private tropical paradise.
Offered at $1,595,000
JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: JAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM | CELL: 808.870.5671 UPCOUNTRY OFFICE • (808) 572-8600 • WWW.ISLANDSIR.COM | EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED
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« AT HOME »
home; a life-sized statue of Kuan Yin, goddess of compassion, stands contemplative watch over herbs, aloe, Meyer lemon, yuzu, orchid peppers with hot, hot seeds, finger limes, chocolate mint that imparts a seductive smell when you rub the leaves. . . . Though the property is a modest 9,600 square feet, those wraparound gardens add to the sense of privacy the architecture creates. “Each room has a patio that makes for lots of private little nooks,” says Diane. Upstairs, those nooks give way to expansive views that extend from ‘Ulupalakua, on Haleakalā’s southern slope, across the sweep of ocean and neighboring islands, all the way to the West Maui mountains. “The master suite has such a beautiful view of the ocean,” says Diane. “It’s hard to walk downstairs in the morning; I just want to watch the sky change colors. I often delay the start of my day with a cup of coffee on the upstairs lānai and watch the world awaken.” For a second helping of Ed and Diane Lane’s Wailea home, see this issue’s “Holiday Test Kitchen,” page 78.
RESOURCES Coastline Stone & Tile, Inc. 907 Malulani Street, Kīhei 879-0635 | CoastlineStoneAndTileInc.com
We Are. The Voice of Maui Luxury Real Estate. WAILEA | KAPALUA | KULA | HANA | LANA'I
INCREDIBLE 15-ACRE KULA ESTATE This estate provides everything you could possibly imagine in Upcountry Kula living. The bi-coastal views are beyond spectacular: from Kaho'olawe, to the top of Haleakala and beyond. The exquisite home, one of only five parcels in a private gated community, was constructed using only premium, quality materials consisting of marble, stone, beautiful hardwood and granite. 4 Bed | 3.5 Bath | 15.3 Acres | mls# 363964 Offered at $2,999,000
BEAUTIFUL ISLAND ARCHITECTURE Gracious and welcoming, this beautiful island property sits prominently on it’s own private 4 acre bluff overlooking all of Maui! Custom features throughout this 3200 sq.ft. home include mahogany floors, ground floor master suite, a cozy library/den, outdoor gazebo with fireplace and an exceptional Top Chef kitchen! Amazing ocean and mountain views! Enjoy Upcountry Island Living at it’s finest! 3 Bed | 3.5 Bath | 4 Acres | mls# 363072 Offered at $3,100,000
EXTRAORDINARY HOME ON LANA’I Stunningly beautiful and privately situated, this incredible Lana’i residence captures the grace and elegance of Old Hawai’i. With its peaceful and breathtaking setting this classic custom island home enjoys sweeping views, including the Munro hiking trail and the Lana’i mountain range. See more at www.LuxuryLanaiRealEstate.com 3 Bed | 3.5 Bath | 1.4 Acres | mls# 361495 Offered at $4,000,000
EXCEPTIONAL HANA BEACH HOUSE Enjoy peace and tranquility with unsurpassed ocean views beyond rolling lawns, sounds of the surf, swaying palms and your own private lookout point! Surrounded by large covered decks with views of the ocean and mountains of Hana, this island home has a spacious floor plan with solid wood floors, picture glass windows and vaulted ceilings. 3 Bed | 3.5 Bath | 1.1 Acres | mls# 365998 Offered at $1,750,000
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Michele Parker, R(S) (808) 276-9500 Wendy R Peterson, R(S) (808) 870-4114 Michele@IslandSothebysRealty.com Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com
Jay Peterson Woodworking (cabinetry in master and guest baths) 808-553-8381 MolokaiWoodGuy@RocketMail.com Joanne Conlon Upholstery (slipcovers, cushion upholstery) 33 W. Kanamale Loop, Wailuku 244-5449 Latitudes Garden (swans, holiday chandelier) 360 Papa Place, Unit 103, Kahului 893-0650 | TheGardenOfSilks.com Maui Marble & Granite (ceramic tile) 874 Alua St., Wailuku 242-8400 | MauiMarbleAndGranite.net Owen Tan Architect 35 Linden Ave., Long Beach, CA 562-253-0050 | OwenTanArchitect.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Wendy R Peterson, R(S) (808) 870-4114 Wendy R Peterson, R(S) (808) 870-4114 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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FIND YOUR PLACE
I N P R E S T I G I O U S K A PA L U A R E S O RT
When buying or selling real estate in Kapalua Resort, it’s to your advantage to use The Official Kapalua Experts at Kapalua Realty. With over 100 years of combined real estate experience, the knowledgeable agents are well versed in selling and servicing the real estate and lifestyle needs of Kapalua Resort. Our team knows the community and has maintained the largest market share of total sales volume at the resort for many years. Our on-resort presence and strong relationships with resort partners give us the inside edge.
Agents are on duty 365 days a year to serve you with convenient locations in Kapalua Resort. 700 Office Road • p a r a d i s e @ k a p a l u a r e a l t y . c o m • 8 0 8 . 6 6 5 . 5 4 5 4
800.545.VIEW (8439)
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It’s where brothers became best friends.
This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.
There must be something in the water. Maybe it’s the Aloha spirit. Or the slowing of time. Whatever it is, this Island — this spot — always seems to bring them closer together. At Montage Residences Kapalua Bay, resort amenities and signature services allow you to return to what matters: making lifelong memories. A limited selection of three- and four-bedroom residences are available, located steps from Maui’s most cherished beach. Prices start at $3.4M. Residences are exclusively listed by Lisa Hatem Real Estate Company. 808-662-6551
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Holiday Gift G We’re celebrating the best that Maui has to offer with great gift ideas to enhance the home, adorn and pamper the body, tempt the taste buds, quench one’s thirst and keep everything on schedule.
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1 AH, THERE’S THE RUB! Chef Paris Nabavi’s award-winning blend of spices, citrus, and smoky chipotle brings a South-of-the-Border accent to poultry, pork, lamb, rice and veggies. The 3.5-oz. tin is $13 at Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive, 808-662-6000, SangritaGrill.com. 2 ISLAND WEAR RueBelle’s14k solid gold Maui map earrings and Maui gold script ring are made to order; allow 3–4 weeks for delivery. $414 each at RueBelle.com. 3 HAPPY ENDING In Hawaiian, pau means “ended,” as in pau hana (“after work,” or more loosely, ”happy hour”). We conclude that the best way to celebrate such times is with Pau Maui Vodka, handcrafted here in small batches by Hali‘imaile Distilling Company. 750 ml., $18 at Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 808-873-8000; HaliimaileDistilling.com. 4 ON THE SHORT LIST Heidi Cramer of Maui Sweet Cakes must be one of Santa’s elves. Why else would she bake such yummy cookies to set out for that jolly old elf? 12-oz. shortbread gift box with ginger spice and lemon rosemary, salted chocolate and classic vanilla, $18; 4-oz single-flavor boxes $7 each. 2-pack mini-sprinkles cookies (5 flavors), $3; 3-pack sprinkle cookies (tropical and traditional flavors), $10; single sprinkle cookies in liliko‘i, coconut lime, mac-nut chocolate, vanilla and chocolate, $3.50 each. Find them at The Market by Capiche?, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 808-879-2433; and at MauiSweetCakes.com. 5 NO NON-SCENTS Shaka Street Soap Works handcrafts its luxury bars in five irresistible, natural fragrances: liliko‘i (passionfruit), 64
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8 melia (plumeria), wainila (Tahitian vanilla), poni ‘ala (lavender), niu (coconut), and kiele (gardenia). The 9-oz. bars are $14, and the new 2.5-oz. minis make great stocking stuffers at $5 each. At Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia, 808-579-9792; and ShakaStreet.com. 6 SPREAD THE WORD Haleakala Creamery makes decadent, spreadable caramel in 4 mouth-watering flavors: Maui vanilla and Hawai‘i cinnamon (shown), made with goat’s milk; dulce de leche and Maui coffee, made with cow’s milk. 3-oz. jars, $8; 8-oz. jars, $13; at Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy, Kahului, 800-645-2877; and HaleakalaCreamery.com. 7 FOR YOUR HONEY Ignite a little romance with Queen Bee’s handpoured Lovers’ Spark candle, made with Maui beeswax and coconut fragrance. 2-oz. tins, $15 each at WaterLily, 100 Wailea Ike Drive, Wailea, 808-276-2764; and QueenBeeMaui.com. 8 FOR YOUR SUGAR Zenziva’s organic sugar, chocolate, coffee and sandalwood-oil body scrub exfoliate, hydrate and polishes skin to perfection. 3.38-oz. pouch, $16. Available at Enchantress Boutique at The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 808-891-6360; and ZenzivaLiving.com. 9 BREW HAWAI‘I Island Press Coffee’s Kā‘anapali Blend is 100% Maui-grown coffee: robust, full-bodied, smooth and aromatic. Take some home for a Maui perk-me-up whenever you miss the Islands. Available in1-lb. ($24) and ½-lb ($12) bags. At Island Press Coffee, The Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive, Kā‘anapali. 808-667-2003. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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13 Maui mud pie, turtle, paradise, cookies-n-cream, chocolate mac nut, lava flow, white chocolate, chocolate coconut cream, maple walnut and dark chocolate. Sold in ¼-, ½- and 1-lb. packages. $5 per ¼ lb. In Kīhei at 1945 B. S. Kīhei Road, 808-495-6892; 915 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-661-2726; and HawaiiFudge. com. 11 WALL FLOWERS Maui artist Valerie Mizner creates vibrant, affordable, one-of-a-kind paintings; pick one or more to brighten your home. 5”x7” watercolor on paper (8”x10” with frame), $45 at The Gallery Shop at Kaluanui, Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, 808572-6560, HuiNoeau.com. 12 TAKE A GOOD LOOK and you’ll see the laser-cut, Polynesian-inspired design in Mokū’s Ekolu rosewood sunglasses, featuring polarized lenses using UV 400 technology. So light, they float, and the price won’t sink you, either—$129 at Driftwood Maui, 1152 Makawao Avenue, Makawao, 808-573-1152; ShopMoku.com. 13 INNER BEAUTY Derek Bencomo transforms anomalies in tropical woods into stunning works of art. He carved his 10”x23”x17” “Seabury Vessel” from a koa stump in Upcountry Maui. $5,800 at Maui Crafts Guild, 120 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia, 808579-9697, MauiCraftsGuild.comy See more of Derek’s work at DerekBencomoMauiArtist.com. 14 EASE INTO SUNSET Annie Fischer adorns her
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hand-painted, ombré pillows with button shells collected from Maui shores. Various sizes, $85–$195 at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 808-5798899, PearlButik.com. 15 GO NATIVE Bring a fun, retro touch to your home bar with these hand-sculpted, slip-cast tiki mugs. They’re made of ceramic and feature glossy interiors in a variety of colors. The 9.5” tall Kona tiki mug (left) holds 22 oz., $100; 8” tall Kahu the Cannibal (right) holds 24 oz., $80. Both by TikiRob at Beachbumz in the Kīhei Kalama Village marketplace, 1941 South Kīhei Road; and at TikiRob.com. 16 MATS THEY’LL WELCOME Palapala Designs creates drink mats in a variety of Hawaiian motifs, individually block-printed and sewn on Maui. Each mat has thick liner layers to protect surfaces from condensation. 4.5” square, set of 2 for $15 at Kula Marketplace, 15200 Haleakalā Highway, Kula, 808-878-2135. For other retail locations, visit PalapalaDesigns.com. 17 FOR WHAT YOU HOLD DEAR This koa treasure case by Tom Calhoun features a 22K gold-leaf design that mimicks a waterfall. The inner lid is fragrant ‘iliahi (Hawaiian sandalwood); Japanese brocade and leather line the interior. A leather-covered cork bottom protects both the box and the lucky place where it sits. 4.25”x7.5”x4.5”, finished in durable conversion varnish. $2,000 at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main Street, Wailuku, 808-249-2421. Learn more about Tom and his work at WorldWoodWorks.com. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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18 PINEAPPLE PRINTS FOR YOUR PINEAPPLE PRINCESS Blue Jane Maui’s 16”x24” pillow features hand-stenciled pineapples on unbleached natural canvas. Includes down insert. $110 at HUE, 210 Alamaha Street, Kahului, 808-873-6910, MauiHue.com. 19 FROM THEIR HANDS TO YOURS Maui Hands offers an eclectic array of works by Island artists. Shown: Jamie Stokes’s hand-built bottle, $40; Curt Stevens’s porcelain sgraffito vase, $135; and Michael Wisner’s clay vessel, inspired by the American Southwest, $250. Selections vary; visit MauiHands.com for store locations. 20 EDIBLE ART Master chocolatier Melanie Boudar creates more than 45 delctable flavors, 25 flavors available daily. From top: lime in the coconut, POG (passionfruit/orange/guava), pineapple habanero, vegan chocolate mousse, coconut crème brulée. $2.50 per piece. Gift boxes from $26 (8 pc.) to $140 (48 pc.), by and at Sweet Paradise Chocolatier, 34 Wailea Gateway, Pi‘ilani Highway at Wailea Ike Drive, 808-344-1040, SweetParadiseChocolate.com. 21 LEAF-RAPT Keani Jewelry’s Lau Lani collection transforms the beauty of tropical leaves and trees into wearable works of art. This Lush ring captures the leaf of the banana in sterling silver. $90 at KeaniJewelry.com. 22 IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND Kamera’s Mu‘olea Palm bag features grade-A luxe cowhide leather, chic mesh, gold embellishments, pockets, and 24” adjustable/removable cross-body strap. 8.5”x2.5”x8.5”, $250 at Driftwood Maui, 1152 Makawao Avenue, Makawao, 808-573-1152; and KameraJewelry.com. 23 MOON WRITE Fishermen, gardeners, wayfinders, chefs . . . all will find a home for their observations in this Hilo Ia a Pa‘a (Moon Phase Journal). $10 by and at Kealopiko.com. Find more info at MoonPhaseProject.com. 68
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BLACK FRIDAY HOLIDAY MARKETPLACE 11.27.2015 11.28.2015
For more information on holiday events follow mauiHUE on Facebook
210 Alamaha Street, Kahului 808-873-6910 | mauihue.com
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24 HOLIDAY SPICE Maui Sweet N Spicy’s 100% dark cacao comes in flavors like chili, mint, spicy & sweet, lavender, and coco cacao infused with coconut milk. Sprinkle in coffee or smoothies, on yogurt, ice cream or fruit. 10-gm pouches, $2; 4-oz jars $20. At Fustini’s Oils & Vinegars in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, 808-868-4351; and MauiSweetNSpicy.com. 25 FOR YOUR CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Bluesmith’s awardwinning Spartan boardshorts come in multistretch Swiss fabric, with three pockets and recycled, noncorrosive zippers. Shown in Hawaiian Ocean and Lava Red. $185, exclusively at Bluesmiths.com. 26 ORIGINAL VISION Maui Jim’s beautifully comfortable sunglasses feature Charlie Lyon’s art on acetate frames. Limited-editions; prices vary. Shown: GS208-51 in the You Move Me collection. At ILORI Optical in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, 808-875-1188. 27 PACKING HEAT Share the warmth of the Islands with Adoboloco’s hot sauces, from mild to three-alarm fire. Gift boxes of hamajang (very hot), pineapple, and habanero (hot) are $26 at Whole Foods in Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Avenue, Kahului, 808-872-3310. Or create your own gift pack at Adoboloco.com. 28 NOTEWORTHY Matsumoto Studio offers 2 calendars inspired by Hawai‘i (shown) or hanafuda (Japanese flower playing cards). $20 for the calendar alone, $25 with envelopes, $28 with envelopes and acrylic stand or magnetic clip (shown), MatsumotoStudio. com. 29 ITTY BITTY PRETTY Bitty Bambu’s sunny dresses come in bright and cheerful fabrics. Shown: rainbow-pineapple dress with adjustable ric-rac straps. $48 at Droplets, 1169 Makawao Avenue, Makawao, 808-205-1751; and BittyBambu.com. 30 CANOE CARVING Dane Ward’s Holokai Wa‘a original woodblock print of a Polynesian sailing canoe is 8”x10”, 11”x14” with blue mat. $85 at HUE, 210 Alamaha Street, Kahului, 808-873-6910.
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DEEPLY ROOTED
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has been dedicated to growing and milling premium sugarcane for more than 140 years. Hawaii’s only producer of raw and specialty sugar, our natural cane sugar is 100% grown and produced on our Maui plantation. The rich volcanic soil combined with the warm tropical sun create the ideal condition for growing the world’s sweetest sugarcane. Crystallized from the juice of fresh-cut sun-ripened cane, Maui Brand Sugar is slow-boiled and carefully handcrafted one batch at a time, retaining some of the molasses to preserve the vitamins and minerals captured in the natural color and rich old-fashioned flavor of our golden sugar crystals. Join companies and locals across the island by enhancing the taste of your favorite recipes and products with the naturally sweet, distinctly delicious flavor of the Hawaiian Islands.
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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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ADVERTORIAL
Holiday Marketplace SPARROW SEAS
Our Heart in Maui sterling-silver and 14-karat goldfilled necklaces are made on Maui. We also offer a full collection of Hawaiian Island jewelry online or in person at JoNerZ, Sparrow Mobile Boutique, Maui Swap Meet (space #457), and SparrowSeas.com.
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We make all our soaps by hand, in small batches, and with the highest-quality ingredients. The result is a long-lasting, cleansing, exfoliating and moisturizing soap. Each loofah soap bar is a unique and natural work of art. Exfolicare.com
Why settle for 5 golden rings when you can give a whole, naturally sweet, island-grown pineapple? Succulent Maui Gold pineapples bring aloha to any doorstep in the Islands or the Lower 48. Available in single- ($30), two- ($45), and six-pack ($85) gift boxes, shipping included. Mention Maui Gold’s ad on page 16 and get 10 percent off. 808-877-3805 PineappleMaui.com
CRYSTAL HARMONICS The perfect gift for the yoga or meditation practitioner in your life, these Alchemy Crystal Singing Bowls are made of the highest-grade, pure crystal quartz, blended with gemstones or other mineral elements. Each bowl is a unique and beautiful instrument for healing and meditation. 808-572-9999 CrystalHarmonics.com
MAUIGROWN COFFEE Share 100 percent Maui holiday coffees with friends and loved ones—coffees grown by us on the Kā‘anapali Estate, and roasted in small batches at our RoastHouse in Lahaina. Visit the MauiGrown Coffee Company Store and sample 100 percent Maui coffee, or order online. Open 6:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Monday–Saturday|277 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina | 808-661-2728 |MauiGrownCoffee.com
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ADVERTORIAL
SARGENT’S FINE ART & JEWELRY She’ll be dripping in pearls with the Peacock Necklace, handmade with Tahitian pearls and leather by Glorious Oceanic Creations. Customizable lengths and numbers of pearls; prices vary. Just one of the more than 25 local jewelry designers represented in the gallery. 802 Front Street, Lahaina 808-667-2131 SargentsFineJewelry.com
MAUI CLOSET COMPANY Organization simplifies your life—and the best way to organize your space is to call the Maui Closet Company. Our free design consultation lets you explore all the possibilities. We specialize in island-style wall beds, shoji and mirrored doors, and our work is locally manufactured. 310 Hukilike St., Unit M Kahului | 808-871-7996 MauiCloset.com
AMATA JEWELRY Evoking the waves, colors and skies that make island living a paradise, our Hawaiian Islands Collection celebrates the blue beauty all around us: sapphires, moonstone, lapis, aquamarine, and more. Wear them and be transported. AmataJewelryStudio.com
ISLAND STYLE BEDDING & HOME DECOR is for those who love Maui and elegant island living. Made on Maui by local hands and hearts, our Hawaiian-print bedroom and table decor brings paradise home and creates the feel of a tropical retreat. Adorn your home and/or give as treasured gifts. IslandStyleBedding.com MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast Maui coffee, Hawaiian coffee and our blends daily in our eco-friendly, small-batch roaster to ensure freshness of every roast. Taste the flavors of Hawai‘i in every freshly brewed cup. 444 Hāna Highway, Kahului 808-877-2877 MauiCoffeeRoasters.com
LAHAINA ARTS SOCIETY Discover some of Maui’s most talented fine artists at the Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree and Old Jail galleries inside the historic Old Lahaina Courthouse. Check out local paintings, ceramics, photography, glass art, jewelry, and more! 648 Wharf St., #103, Lahaina 808-661-0111 LahainaArts.com
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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WHERE CHAMPIONS COME TO PLAY JAN 6-10, 2016 | THE PLANTATION COURSE TICKETS START AT $15 AT PGATOUR.COM/HYUNDAI
Paid for by Friends of Alan Arakawa • P.O. Box 1222 • Wailuku, HI 96793
FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 808.665.9160
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Na Hoku Koa Collection
Na Hoku Chronograph Watch with Koa and Steel Bracelet $650 Other dial options available
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KAANAPALI: Whalers Village, 808-667-5411 • Hyatt Regency Maui, 808-667-7780 LAHAINA: 744 Front Street, across from the seawall, 808-661-5965 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump, 808-661-1219 • Lahaina Cannery, 808-661-1731 WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper Level, 808-891-8040 • Grand Wailea Resort, 808-879-8336 KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 808-893-2110 NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912
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Old Lahaina Luau ad v1-mnko
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Page 1
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« DINING »
Holiday Test K
the menu STARTERS
Sashimi with Holiday Punch* Grilled Pumpkin Salad**
MNKO director of sales Laura Lewark demonstrates her prowess with a mandoline for Cameron Lewark, executive chef at Spago Maui (and Laura’s husband).
ENTRÉE
Bacon-wrapped Maui Venison Loin with Taro Gnocchi Salt-baked Hawaiian Snapper** Roasted Vegetables with Citrus-Lobster Vinaigrette DESSERT
Roasted Rack of White Pineapple with Pressurecooked Bananas and Dry-Ice Ice Cream** * Find our holiday punch recipe on page 86. ** Available on our website.
story by BECKY SPEERE photography by MIEKO HORIKOSHI
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d and Diane Lane welcome us into their home with warm smiles, while Toulouse Lautrec, a dapper long-haired Chihuahua, and Coco Chanel, a dainty Maltese, yip and twirl at our ankles as if to say, “Okay, you can pick me up!” A few minutes later we’re joined by Brian Etheredge and Chris Kulis, chef/owners of the romantic Italian restaurant Capische?, and Cameron Lewark, executive chef at Spago Wailea, assisted by Spago sous chef Frances Singleton. In 2008, his peers named Etheredge Chef of the Year at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s ‘Aipono Awards; in 2010, Lewark won that title. The respect and camaraderie these professionals share inspired us to ask them to help us create a holiday test kitchen—the first time
Diane Lane (left), Diane Woodburn and Michael Haynes are all smiles as Chef Chris Kulis presents a dish of Maui venison and taro gnocchi.
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we’ve had multiple cooks in the kitchen. We help haul two carloads of ingredients and implements into Diane’s kitchen, then ascend to the upstairs lānai, where Chef Cameron’s rum punch awaits, brimming with fresh berries, Thai basil and spearmint. “This is how I like to start cooking sessions at home!” quips art director John Giordani. Downstairs, Chef Brian surveys Diane’s compact but well-organized kitchen, admiring the strategically placed, Colonial America-style brass utensils. “I wish I saw your kitchen before I remodeled mine,” he says. “I cook a lot,” our hostess replies, “and I love those utensils. I bought those at Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts forty-five years ago and they’ve been in every one of our kitchens.” While Brian and Chris organize the mise en place, Cameron recruits MNKO sales executive Michael Haynes for a demonstration on making ginger syrup that will become ginger ale. First task: Shred the ginger root. Mike stops halfway through, glances at his knuckles coming ever closer to the sharp box grater, and asks, “Can you do this in a food processor?” Cameron replies, “Sure, but not everyone has one. I wanted to show you [the technique] using this basic tool.” He also shares a tip: “Don’t peel the root. The skin adds a lot of flavor.” We learn that ginger syrup is easy to prepare—just
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Kitchen Four award-winning chefs collaborated on this year’s test kitchen. You’ll find their recipes in these pages and on our website, along with video demos and tips. Choose your favorites for your own holiday feast—or if you’re ambitious, try them all.
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Sashimi Recipe by Spago Executive Chef Cameron Lewark
Servings: 8 appetizers (Serve leftover sauces with seafood, salad, or grilled meats.) Prep Time: 1 hour 24 oz. thinly sliced sashimi (e.g. ahi, snapper) Garnish ½ c. edible flowers (e.g. sweet William, begonias, pansies, borage) 6 cucamelons cut in half (or 1 cucumber, seeded and thinly sliced) 2 lemon cucumbers, thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced 1 c. hearts of palm, thinly sliced Beet Wasabi Sauce ½ c. cooked red beets ¼ c. powdered wasabi ¼ c. rice-wine vinegar ¼ c. pickled (sushi) ginger 1 egg yolk 1½ c. grapeseed or vegetable oil Place first 5 ingredients in a blender and mix on high until smooth. Reduce blender speed to low and slowly add oil until mixture is the consistency of mayonnaise.
Creamy Miso-Yuzu Sauce ¼ c. & 1 tsp. white miso ¼ c. Dijon mustard 2 c. yuzu juice* 2 tsp. yuzu kosho paste* 1 egg yolk ¼ c. mayonnaise 2 c. pickled ginger (store-bought) ¼ c. & 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 c. peanut oil pinch salt & pepper In a blender, add first 8 ingredients and blend on high 30 seconds. Reduce speed and slowly add peanut oil. Add salt and pepper; blend a few seconds to combine. Adjust seasoning to taste. White Soy Vinaigrette ½ c. simple syrup ¼ c. lemongrass vinegar** 1 c. white soy sauce 2 Tbsp. yuzu juice ½ c. extra virgin olive oil Place first four ingredients in stainless steel pot and bring to a simmer. Cool. Whisk in olive oil. Plating Place fish on plate, drizzle with lemongrass vinaigrette, add dollops of beet and yuzu sauces; garnish with cucumbers and flowers. (There is no wrong way to plate this dish. Be creative!) * Asian ingredients are available at TJ’s Party Pantry, Alua St., Wailuku; and in most supermarkets’ oriental food sections. **Available at Fustini’s in The Shops at Wailea
1 1. Chef Cameron takes host Diane Lane through the finer points of carving sashimi. 2. Using a sharp knife, start your cut just behind the collar and move the knife along the spine toward the tail. 3. Skin the filets with your blade, removing any pin bones, and cut in half lengthwise to create bite-sized slices. 4. Moving the filet to the closer edge of your cutting board keeps your hand from hitting the board, and creates more stable cuts. Don’t saw the flesh; sashimi should be sliced with a single cut, drawing the knife toward you.
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« DINING » three ingredients: water, ginger and sugar. Fermentation takes about five days, with daily feedings of more sugar and ginger, so Cameron has brought a bottle he prepared ahead of time. For nearly a week it has sat open at room temperature, collecting the natural, airborne yeasts that create effervescence and turn the strained syrup into ginger ale. We each take a sip, and though it’s nonalcoholic, it’s surprisingly tangy and refreshing. Let it sit longer, and the ginger ale will ferment into ginger beer. “Always use a plastic bottle to age the ale,” says Cameron. “I’ve lost plenty of glass bottles [from the build up of CO2].” Next up: sashimi. With a razor-sharp knife, Cameron filets an ehu (short-tail snapper), a pelagic fish that resides at depths of 800 feet, its colors as bright and exuberant as an Ed Lane painting. He shows Diane how to slice the flesh into thin sashimi with long, fluid strokes. “When you filet the fish,” he notes, “make sure to get all the meat along the backbone and behind the gill. There’s lots of meat in the neck. If you use it for sashimi, it can be a little tough,” he adds, pressing it with a finger to demonstrate the springiness, “so you have to tenderize it with the heel of your blade to break up the sinew.” Glancing over Cameron’s shoulder, Chef Brian jokes, “Fish hold their tension in the neck, just like us.” Meanwhile, Laura Lewark prepares the garnish that will accompany the sashimi. (Our director of sales, Laura is also Cameron’s wife.) Using a mandolin, she slices translucent ribbons of carrots, hearts of palm, and lemon cucumber, then tosses them in a lemongrass, ginger, and citrus vinaigrette that Cameron infused ahead of time. His tip for steamed infusions: “Always cover with plastic wrap . . . this allows for the steamed essences from the herbs to fall back into the bowl.” Oohs and aahs fill the room as he plates a palette with drops of canary-yellow yuzu and cotton-candy-pink beet vinaigrette. As the picture-perfect appetizer materializes, Ed exclaims, “It is almost too beautiful to eat!”
Chef Brian Etheridge puts sale associate Michael Haynes to work milling baked potato and taro, using a large food mill and a medium-fine sieve. If you don’t have a food mill, use a ricer.
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Taro Gnocchi Recipe by Capische? Chef Brian Etheredge Servings: 8 Prep Time: 2½ hours This recipe calls for a food mill or ricer, and a clean working surface such as a stainless-steel counter or marble slab.
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1 large russet potato 1 lb. Chinese taro 2–3 c. gluten-free flour 1 egg yolk salt & pepper to taste 6 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil or butter fresh herbs (i.e. parsley, sage . . . 1 Tbsp. each) Bake potato and taro in preheated 375° oven 1 hour or till tender. Cut in half and scoop flesh into a bowl or directly into a food mill. 1. Mill onto a clean surface and allow to cool. Sift evenly to cover with ½ c. gluten-free flour. Make a well in the dough and add egg yolk. Use a bench scraper to cut in the yolk, taro and potato. Sift and cut-in ½ to 1 c. flour, as needed, to create a dry-to-moist dough that holds together. Do not overwork the dough or add too much flour. 2–3. Knead several times, then roll into logs 6” long by ½” thick. 4. Using the bench scraper or a knife, cut logs into ½” pieces. 5–8. Lightly press shallow grooves into each piece. If you don’t have a gnocchi board (shown), use the tines of a whisk or fork. Drop pieces onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bring 4 quarts lightly salted water to boil. Divide dough into 4 batches and blanch each batch in the boiling water. Remove when gnocchi floats to the surface. 9. Shock in ice water, drain. Toss in olive oil, salt and pepper and reserve till ready to sauté in remaining olive oil or butter, along with fresh herbs. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015
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« DINING »
ROASTED VEGETABLES WITH \ LOBSTER VINAIGRETTE Recipe by Capische? Chef Brian Etheredge Servings: 8 Prep Time: 1 hour 8 baby carrots, peeled and blanched 1 heart of palm, sliced into 1” disks 8 cippolini onions, peeled and blanched 1 large fennel root, sliced and blanched 8 oz. haricot vert, or green beans, blanched ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ tsp. salt ¼ tsp. pepper
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Toss vegetables in olive oil, salt and pepper. Chargrill lightly on high heat. Mound vegetables on platter and drizzle with lobster vinaigrette. Serve warm or at room temperature. Lobster Vinaigrette 1 cooked lobster, meat roughly chopped 1 grapefruit 1 orange ½ lemon ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. tarragon, minced salt & pepper to taste
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Cut grapefruit and orange in half. Lightly spray the cut sides of the grapefruit, orange and lemon with olive oil; then grill, cut side down. Whisk juices, olive oil, salt, pepper and tarragon to combine. Stir in lobster meat. 1. Grilled citrus adds a smoky depth to the vinaigrette. 2. Let the cooked lobster cool, then cut in half and remove the tomalley (the green stuff). Rinse both halves under running water. 3–4. Publisher Diane Woodburn uses long tweezers to extract every morsel for chopping.
Nearby, Chef Brian holds up one of four herb-marinated venison loins and says, “We wanted a really special dish, so Cameron and I went bow hunting; this is the venison we harvested.” The loins are about a tenth the size of beef tenderloins, but perfect for the technique he shows us. “Since venison is such a lean protein, we wrap it in bacon and poach it in a water bath to retain moisture.” After ten minutes, Brian carefully removes the loins from the simmering water and lets them rest, then finishes them in a hot skillet, ladling the fat over the meat so it crisps and caramelizes. The room fills with heavenly aromas. Brian brings out the baked taro and potatoes that are about to become gnocchi. He’s using Chinese taro, recognizable by its smooth skin and fewer surface roots. He says, “I like Chinese taro for its flavor and mealiness. It’s more potato-like than Hawaiian taro, which has a stickier cooked consistency.” He slices the hot, steaming tubers in half, lengthwise, then has Michael hold them in a thick towel and scoop the flesh into a mill that will extrude the starchy meal onto a countertop dusted with gluten-free flour. He says, “We used to incorporate 100 percent wheat flour into the gnocchi, but with gluten-free flour, there’s less of a chance to mess up the recipe. The rice flour [and an egg yolk he’ll add] holds it together nicely.” Chef Chris recruits Laura to help him with the salt-crusted onaga (long-tail red snapper). He filets the sustainably harvested pelagic fish with a few slices of the chef knife that woodworker John Whittle crafted of mango wood and Japanese steel. (As we marvel at the craftsmanship, Chris mentions that it’s sold at
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Chef Brian removes the onaga from the oven after it has baked for half an hour under a thick crust of kosher and Hawaiian salts. Find the recipe for this show-stopping dish on our website.
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BACON-WRAPPED MAUI VENISON Recipe by Capische? Chef Chris Kulis Servings: 4 Prep Time: 40 minutes, plus 8 hours (or overnight) for marinade 4 venison tenderloins 15–20 strips thick-sliced smoked bacon (uncooked) ½ c. grapeseed oil Marinade 8 cloves garlic, smashed olive oil sufficient to cover (use a generous amount) 8 sprigs rosemary 1 Tbsp. pink peppercorn, cracked on table small bunch thyme 1. Place all ingredients in a deep dish. Add venison loins. Marinate, covered, 8 hours or overnight. 2. Place marinated loins on paper toweling to remove excess marinade. 3–4. Lay a quarter of the bacon strips on plastic wrap, place a loin perpendicularly over the strips, and roll the wrap so the bacon envelops the loin. 5. Seal tightly, tying the ends of the wrap. Repeat with the rest of the loins. Poach for 10 minutes in boiling water. Remove from water and let rest for 10 minutes. 6. Remove plastic wrap, and sear bacon-wrapped venison in ½ c. hot grapeseed oil, spooning the oil over the meat, till golden brown. Let rest 10–15 minutes. 7. Slice each log into 2” portions for serving. 8. After plating the venison with the gnocchi, Chef Chris takes it up another notch by shaving slices of truffle onto the dish.
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Left: Chef Cameron sets a holiday mood with his Nō Ka ‘Oi punch (made with rum and homemade ginger ale). Find the recipe on page 86. Right: With our hosts Ed and Diane Lane (seated at right), we toast Chris Kulis and the rest of our accomplished chefs.
Capische’s sister business, The Market, in Wailea Gateway Center.) Next, Chris deftly pulls the pin bones from the filets with culinary tweezers. “That is the one piece of equipment I don’t have in my kitchen,” says our publisher, Diane Haynes Woodburn. “I need to get one.” “We sell them,” says Chris. I pipe in: “Perfect holiday gifts!” Chris reassembles the onaga in an ovenproof ceramic dish, stuffs it with fresh slices of fennel, and covers it with a mixture he’s made of whipped egg whites, salt, exotic spices . . . and five pounds of salt! “Bake immediately, and eat it soon after it’s cooked, so the crust doesn’t overly season the fish,” says Chris.
By midafternoon, we’re all hungry and eager to sample the feast we’ve helped our four chefs prepare. They usher us out to the courtyard and a dining table set with Diane Lane’s heirloom Limoges china and silverware (circa 1905). Chris presents the onaga at tableside and tells us that many of these dishes will appear on the Capische? and Spago menus during the holidays. As we raise our glasses to the chefs, Diane Lane’s heartfelt comment echoes our thoughts: “It was such a privilege to have you all in our kitchen. I felt like I was taking part in a master’s culinary class. Each dish is not only delicious, but a work of art.” WEB EXCLUSIVE Find recipes and video demos for all the dishes in our test kitchen, including (clockwise from left) saltbaked snapper, grilled pumpkin salad, and the intricate “rack of pineapple” dessert with homemade dry-ice ice cream, at MauiMagazine.net/HolidayKitchen2015.
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Dining » MAUI MIXOLOGY
KNOCKOUT PUNCHES Ulupalakua Punch Our thanks to Tom Bean, manager of Chef Tylun Pang’s Kō restaurant at the Fairmont Kea Lani, for creating this holiday punch. Tom says, “Instead of regular ice cubes, try cubes of frozen juice to chill the punch without watering it down.” We like his suggestion of using frozen chunks of mango and pineapple even better. Makes 6 to 8 servings. INGREDIENTS 2 c. organic Deep Island Rum 1 bottle MauiWinery’s Hula o Maui pineapple sparkling wine (or prosecco) 1 c. pineapple juice 1 c. liliko‘i (passionfruit) juice 1 c. cranberry juice 1 c. guava juice frozen pineapple and mango chunks 1 tsp. ginger purée METHOD Assemble juices, ginger purée and Deep Island Rum in a punch bowl. Add frozen fruit chunks and stir mixture well. Add the Hula o Maui pineapple sparkling wine. Ladle into punch cups. Enjoy!
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Nō Ka ‘Oi Punch Executive Chef Cameron Lewark created this holiday punch for our test kitchen, using ginger ale he made at home, and we can attest that it was delicious. If you’re feeling adventurous, you’ll find his recipe online at MauiMagazine.net/ HolidayKitchen2015. If not, store-bought ginger ale works fine. Makes 16 to 20 4-ounce servings. INGREDIENTS 2 c. dark rum 2 c. light rum 2 c. pineapple juice 8 c. ginger ale, homemade or store-bought 1 c. fresh lime juice 1 c. simple syrup 1 c. grenadine 4 c. assorted berries (i.e. raspberries, blueberries, strawberries) METHOD Place all ingredients in a punch bowl and stir. To serve, place ice cubes in glass, ladle in punch and a few berries.
TOP LEFT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI
The house looks spectacular, the menu is set, the prime rib is on low in the oven, and you’re chilling the wines for the food pairings. Then you glance at the clock and realize you won’t have the time or the energy to play bartender. Your friends will soon be arriving, and you could be tied up at the bar for an hour, pouring and shaking and more pouring and shaking—when you’d like to enjoy the party, too! Who comes to the rescue? Your mother! Well, not exactly Mom, but her holiday rum punch recipe. Out comes the antique punch bowl she gave you, the one you have dragged to every new house, but hardly ever use. You scan Mom’s recipe and are tickled to see that you have all the necessary ingredients: passionfruit juice, some inexpensive bubbly, and rum. You think to yourself, ‘This will be easy.” And if you’re thinking, “What recipe from Mom?” don’t worry. Thanks to executive chefs Cameron Lewark of Spago Maui, and Tylun Pang of Fairmont Kea Lani, we’ve got you covered with a one-two punch.—Becky Speere MauiMagazine.net
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PUB: MN Client: G AD: STAY Size: FP Colors: F DUE: 9.2
COME FOR THE FOOD. STAY FOR THE VIEWS.
Maui’s most romantic sunsets and freshest seafood. RESERVATIONS: (808) 875-1234 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI www.grandwailea.com | @grandwailea
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ADVERTORIAL
Island Spirits Wherever the holidays find you,
toast them with Maui’s own!
MAUI WINERY at Ulupalakua Ranch 808.878.6058 MauiWine.com Ulupalakua Vineyards, Maui’s Winery, has been a part of Maui’s agricultural family for forty years. We cultivate and craft wines in one of the most fascinating and distinctive vineyard settings in the world, and are home to one of the Islands’ most enticing products —tropical pineapple wines made from Maui Gold pineapples, hand-picked right here on the slopes of Haleakalā.
Hōkū
1½ oz. vodka 1 oz. fresh orange juice 3 dashes creole bitters 2 oz. Hula o Maui pineapple sparkling wine orange peel garnish Mix vodka, orange juice and bitters in cocktail shaker. Shake and pour into a chilled martini glass. Add Hula o Maui pineapple sparkling wine. Garnish with orange peel. Cocktail by Matthew Corbin, bartender, Cane & Canoe
OCEAN VODKA 4051 Ōma‘opio Road, Kula 808.877.0009 OceanVodka.com DeepIslandRum.com 1½ oz. Deep Island Hawaiian Rum 1 oz. mango juice ½ oz. strawberry juice 1½ oz. pineapple juice ½ oz. orange juice ½ oz. liliko‘i purée ½ oz. lemon juice Combine all ingredients in a shaker over ice and bruise. Strain over ice into a collins glass. Optional garnish: strawberry and pineapple on a skewer.
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Deep Island Hawaiian Rum, a clean, smoothly defined spirit crafted to help you celebrate your journey through life. It is the only rum in the world made from organic sugar cane and blended with deep-ocean mineral water sourced 3,000 feet deep off the Kona Coast of Hawai‘i.
Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au! Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture with authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances, including the three-man Samoan fire-knife dance! • Feast on kalua pig and traditional island specialties • Learn to hula with our skilled dancers • Enjoy local crafts and an island wear fashion show “This is a classy lu‘au - excellent food, wonderful service and a most enjoyable show. Our family really enjoyed it. We highly recommend it.” - TripAdvisor
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Free Gift Offer available with online reservations only. A Tihati Production. The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2015 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
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Dining » RAISE YOUR GLASS
A Wine Advice Column BY CHARLES FREDY
During this season of entertaining, people often ask me for help on choosing the right wine to bring to a party. While there’s no one right answer, it’s easy to make a wrong Charles Fredy is an advanced sommelier decision. For example, I never choose a wine based on the with the Court of look of the label; many small, excellent wines are made by Master Sommeliers, and producers who put their money into their product, not into the a certified specialist of marketing. Nor is price necessarily the sole indicator of quality. wine with the Society Unless you’re going to a wine party, or the invitation is of Wine Educators. A “BYOB,” it’s safe to assume that your hosts will provide the thirty-six-year veteran of the wine-andwines for the evening, and the bottle you bring will be conspirits industry, he is sidered a gift for them to enjoy later. If you don’t know their director of sales and taste, and you’re comfortable doing so, it’s perfectly fine to marketing for Chambers ask what kinds of wines they enjoy. If you’re not comfortable & Chambers Wine doing so, consider giving something festive—especially Merchants Hawai‘i. during the holidays—for example a liqueur, a Champagne, or a bottle of premium wine. Of course, while your hosts aren’t obliged to open your bottle that evening, they may. If you’re going to a dinner party and know the type of food being served, you can tailor your choice to the menu. One of the best ways to ensure a successful pairing is to choose a wine from the same region as the food being served; for an Italian dinner, bring an Italian wine. If steak’s on the menu, go with a hearty red; for fish, choose a white. If you don’t know what’s being served, a sparkling wine makes a great default choice. Not everyone likes red wine, not everyone likes white, but almost everyone enjoys Champagne. We’ve narrowed the choices; now to decide how much you want to spend. If you’re out to impress, there are excellent premium wines under $90, for example Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV. If your comfort zone hovers around $30 to $50, consider a medium-priced wine like Frog’s Leap Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. Even if your budget is modest, you can find some quite decent wines for under $20, like a sauvignon blanc from Morgan Winery, or a sparkling wine like prosecco. If you’re still feeling daunted by the decision, it’s time to do some research. One of the easiest ways: search the Internet. Type in “top wines under $20” on Google, and a list will pop right up. Better yet, visit a local wine shop, a boutique store that’s owned and run by people with a passion for wine. I don’t mean to imply that chain stores don’t have good wines, but they’re not likely to have staff available to answer your questions, help you narrow your choices, or suggest a specific wine. What’s more, because they cater to a lot of people, their inventory tends to be more generic. And while it’s true that the same wine may cost a bit less at the supermarket, small wine shops can actually save you money. Because the people who run them are wine tasters, not simply wine merchants, they are always discovering smaller, artisan producers—labels that may cost only $20 or $25 that are actually better than what you’d buy for $30. In a future column, we’ll talk about how to choose wines for a party when you’re not the guest, but the host. Till then, here’s wishing you happy holidays.
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WINES TO PLEASE EVERY PARTY
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dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40 $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2015
WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kidfriendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-
921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce Black Angus rib eye or fresh catch with chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Kapalua Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. The bright and lively breakfast menu includes poke fruit salad, European-style pastries and top-notch barista service. Later, toast the sunset with Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé and succulent grilled octopus with duck chorizo and saffron-coconut veloute. Food service at bar 3–10 p.m. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and
marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. How to soak up paradise? Order Hawaiian-style spicy edamame, a juicy burger, or island fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. American, Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all within a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stone ovens are just two reasons this casual restaurant and sports bar are worth sinking your teeth into. Menu items range from Dollies cheese steak and meatball subs to Mark’s Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-and macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Hawaiian/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) British pub meets American restaurant. Kid-friendly. British/ American. B, L, D, RR. $$$ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with ‘ahi stew made “just like in the Basque country.” Terrific ‘ahi tartare, perfect pastries. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. Closed Sun. L. $
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Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Savor delicacies like abalone sashimi, and shave your own wasabi root with a sharkskin grater. Japanese/Sushi. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Morcon pork (Filipino-Spanish influences) and raisin-studded meatloaf feature in Chef Joey’s loco moco. Try the braised short-rib pho atop house-made rice noodles, corn and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich ginger beef broth. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Sunday’s brunch buffet features a huge selection of traditional and Hawaiian dishes, champagne, and Hawaiian music. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. BR. $$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Sushi Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work magic with spicy tuna, uni (sea urchin) and tai (snapper). Sip unfiltered Japanese saké and enjoy the coastal view. Sushi. D. $$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Japanese/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed sea scallops in cream sauce. A wide selection of surf and turf, memorable tropical drinks, and a happy hour that lasts from noon to 6 p.m. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. This glamorous restaurant is always on point. Sommelier Richard Olson III suggests lively wine pairings for the famed ‘ahi and foie gras. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed hangout. Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Awardwinning Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Hawai‘i-inspired flavors. Try the sesame-crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake-mushroom-butter-soy sauce, or Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppa’ mahi. Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The pies may win hearts, but the fried salad and home-baked breads also warrant repeat visits to this homey Olowalu outpost. American. B, L, D. $ Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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lahaina fried soup yakitori
pahole salad
star udon
garlic noodles
singapore noodles
steamed pork buns hapa ramen
ahi avo pad thai
sake cocktails
Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the Shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 665-6262. See South Shore listing. Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights such as quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more at this bakery café. Bakery. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Dramatic views of the golden crescent beach and islands on the horizon accent the largely organic and local menu. Hawai‘i Regional. BR Sundays, L, D, RR. $$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. Sushi served on-site, takeout or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and house specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thailemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pi Artisan Pizzeria, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 6670791. Handcrafted pizzas baked in kiawe-woodburning ovens. Build your own pizza with local produce and ingredients like homemade Italian sausage and fresh tomato sauce. Italian. L, D. $–$$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. Our favorites: pistachio- and wasabipea-crusted ‘ahi steak (rare), served with coconut forbidden rice. Or try the tender, Asian-style braised short ribs. L, D, N. $$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Front-and-center views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a perfect side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i
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shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. Traditional East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese, made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End the evening with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. Celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, prepared with Asian attention to detail. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads are highlights on a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta tossed with fresh kale and Italian sausage—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with achiote-marinated ono grilled Yucatan style; fig-mole short ribs; and seafood Veracruz with shrimp, octopus, and fresh fish simmered in a tomato-Spanish-olive sauce. Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s wildly popular restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 6691500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Food Truck. L. $ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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dining guide communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$
mahalo sincerely honored... Restaurant of the Year 2014
Sugar Cane Maui, 736 Front St., Lahaina, 214-6662. French master chef Philippe Chin reimagines island cuisine with ‘ahi nachos on sesamespinach salad, Asian BBQ short ribs with purple yams, fresh tuna steak on wasabi mashed potatoes and more. Asian Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. For starters, try the “Oyster Dan”—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko atop a bed of spinach. Then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/ Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps West Side fans coming back for more with its commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Trilogy Excursion’s Captain’s Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose from rosemary-garlic-crusted steak on a bed of roasted garlic cabernet demi-glace, fresh wild-caught mahi mahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian/Local. D. RR. $$$$
CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing.
127 lahainaluna road lahaina, hawaii 96761 808.667.5117 www.lahainagrill.com
Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This “downtown” bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut french fries, and burrata caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$
dinner served nightly from 5:30pm reservations recommended
Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Macadamia-nutcrusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served in a setting overlooking a links-style golf course and the West Maui Mountains. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$
www.facebook.com/lahainagrill twitter: @lahainagrill
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Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. Mo’ biggah, mo’ betta! The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-sized eater. Plate lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic artwork and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 344-7929. Chef Kyle rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Menu changes every few weeks. Food Truck. L. $ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707. The home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas . . . and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth beside local lawmakers and order Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Salads, soup and sandwiches featuring fresh local ingredients. Closed Sunday. B, L, $
UPCOUNTRY, NORTH SHORE, HĀNA Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Café Mambo, 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021. For lunch or dinner, share the steak, tofu, or duck fajitas, served with a lazy Susan piled high with tasty condiments; or grab packed lunches for the long trip to Hāna. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $$
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Just steps from the water’s edge.
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Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!
Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com
The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution, and stay for the night’s entertainment. Visiting musicians make the dance floor one of the island’s hottest. Kid-friendly. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $-$$. Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. American/Coffeehouse. B, L, Snacks. $$-$$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary, as is Bev’s crab dip. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality, from the walkway’s Escheresque gecko tiles to the
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dining guide mahi-mahi steamed in traditional lū‘au leaves. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample a variety of fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos topped with a sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with the paper-thin fried gobo chips, then move on to ‘ahi tataki with house-special ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and freshly roasted coffee in this bucolic Upcountry setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted vegetables and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fishmarket, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. L, D. $$
SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Keiki as well as their parents will be satisfied at this casual openair eatery. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Cocktails. L, D, N. $
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Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. See Central listing. Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Fresh, handmade pastas include kabocha gnocchi; strozzapretti carbonara comes with house-smoked bacon and Maui farm egg; lamb shanks are served on lemon risotto in a romantic garden setting. Italian. D. $$$$ Chez Mēmē Bistro & Bakery, 115 Kio Loop, Kīhei, 879-5425. Mango-nectar mimosas quench the
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Experience Dining at the Renowned Shores of Kapalua With breathtaking ocean views, traditional Hawaiian architecture and modern island fare, the best of Maui past and present are on display at Cane & Canoe. The signature restaurant at Montage Kapalua Bay – where every meal becomes an unforgettable memory you will cherish long after the evening ends. SERVING BREAKFAST & DINNER DAILY NIGHTLY LIVE ENTERTAINMENT & HAPPY HOUR
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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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dining guide morning thirst as you dive into tender brioche French toast, or a ham-and-Gruyère baguette sandwich for lunch. French-American. B, L. $ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers, fish and chips. Frances’s famous cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Try Aaron’s cocktail with allspice liqueur, fresh lime and bourbon. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. See Central listing. Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf and turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$
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Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with locally harvested tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked 15 hours over fragrant kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy with sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, the other with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D, N. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy vegetarian quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Beverly Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrettesweetened chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. If fresh island prawns in Thai ginger, tomato broth and tapioca pearls, or brioche- and lemongrass-crusted rack of lamb doesn’t make you want to dance the hula, the tender butter lettuce, Cabot white Cheddar cheese, Asian pears, and candied macadamia nuts tossed in a mustard vinaigrette will. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ Joy’s Place, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9258. Brilliant collard-green wraps; sandwiches on thick bread; and awesome, daily made soups are just a few of the
reasons to scout out this humble but bright jewel. American/Vegetarian. B, L. $–$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Chef Isaac Bancaco creates seasonal dishes that change weekly, such as lobster bathed in vanilla-cream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”—three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Longhi’s Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Stop in for a crisp pinot grigio and a Longhi Longhi Longhi salad (that’s its real name)— crisp romaine tossed with reggiano cheese, lemon-feta vinaigrette, and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Māla Wailea, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759394. The brunch buffet includes the Mala Benny (with prosciutto, lamb sausage, or wild mushrooms), omelets and chilaquiles. Mediterranean. B, D. $$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. The latest offering by Tri-Star Restaurant Group, Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. American/Italian. L, D, N. $$ The Market by Capische, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Homemade breads and pastas, salads to go, and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. Full barista service features coffee drinks sweetened with fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Or opt for the Tuscan kale-and-hemp salad with lemon-honeymustard dressing. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, the tom yum shrimp-fried rice just might become your favorite. Or try the green-mango salad with crispy fish, then finish with house-made black sesame ice cream. Curries are made to order with fresh herbs and spices. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Memphis Belle Coffee House, 1794 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4091. Serious coffee and fresh-baked goodies to rev you up, morning or afternoon. Healthy papaya yogurt cups, bacon-brioche donuts, and the Black Market Cronut: croissant dough with dark chocolate glaze. Coffee House, Bakery. B, L. $ MiGRANT, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394. Chef Sheldon Simeon says, “Come my house. Eat!” At his “house,” MiGRANT, the Top Chef finalist prepares tender and flavorful hanger steak, pan-roasted ‘ahi belly, and spicy “AY KUDESH!” noodles. Half-off happy hour menu 4–6 p.m. Filipino/Asian. D. $$$$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen.
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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i-Regional/American. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes such as rib-eye beef burgers lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Outback Steakhouse, 281 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 879-8400. Personable servers, steaks and shrimp hot off the “barbie” and a menu just for “joeys” (kids) make eating an adventure at this Aussie-themed chain restaurant. Kid-friendly. Steak. L, D, N. $$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Sip on giant margaritas and fresh mixology. Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff welcome you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793133. Eggs Benedict served six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try the Peruvian pork tacos, Three’s signature ramen, and greendragon sushi roll; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983. Who guessed a clothing company could deliver mean pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing. More lisitings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide
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WHAT’S HAPPENING WHERE, WHEN AND WITH WHOM
Clockwise from left: Margaret Cho, November 7 | Lahaina Arts Society: Featured Artists (pictured: Earl Thompson’s Aloha Tako), November 2–December 6 | Heritage Film Festival: The Hawaiian Room, November 8
NOVEMBER DAILY Native Plant Guided Tour
Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants. 249-2798, Mnbg.org
THROUGH DECEMBER 20
Nani I Ka Hala: Lau Hala Weaving in Hawai‘i Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Explore the beauty of mea ulana (woven objects) of everyday and ceremonial use from ancestral to modern times. An accompanying exhibit, Hō Ma Ka Hala: Bring Forth the Hala, presents the work of contemporary lau hala (pandanus-leaf) weavers.
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Humpty Dumpty Is Missing! Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this affectionate spoof of the private-eye thrillers of the 1940s and ’50s, involving the audience in the mysterious disappearance of Humpty Dumpty. 11 a.m. Saturday, 2 p.m. Sundays
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& DECEMBER 6
Blue‘Āina Reef Cleanups Lahaina Harbor 675 Wharf Street, Lahaina Help Trilogy Excursions and Surfrider Foundation protect our marine environment. Each cleanup visits a local reef, where participants dive in to remove debris
FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com
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WHERE IT’S AT Grand Wailea Resort 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea 875-1234 • GrandWailea.com
from the reef. $30 donation benefits local nonprofit conservation organizations. For info and reservations, contact the Hawai‘i National Marine Sanctuary Foundation, 875-9325 or 879-2818, ext. 239.
Lahaina Arts Society Banyan Tree Gallery, Old Lahaina Courthouse 648 Wharf St., Lahaina 661-0111 • LahainaArts.com
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DECEMBER 6
Lahaina Arts Society: Featured Artists Banyan Tree Gallery Michael Stark and Earl Thompson depict vibrant aspects of island life—Stark in paint on canvas, Thompson in a variety of media such as drawing, acrylic on canvas and skateboards, and aluminum grinding.
Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-SHOW (7469) • MauiArts.org Maui OnStage at Historic ‘Īao Theater 68 N. Market St., Wailuku 242-6969 • MauiOnstage.com
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Booker T. Jones Castle Theater, MACC An R&B, soul, and pop multi-instrumentalist, and a member of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, Jones is best known as the front man for the legendary Booker T. and the MG’s. 7:30 p.m.
Wailea Golf Club 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea 879-2530 • WaileaGolf.com CHANGE HAPPENS. Sometimes after we go to press. Please check beforehand to confirm events are happening as listed.
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Made in Maui County Festival MACC Explore works by island artists, entrepreneurs, chefs and businesses, and purchase your own Maui-made treasures. 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m. (Arrive early for the best selection.) Admission is $5, payable at the gate. Or purchase one of 500 $35 tickets for the Shoppers’ Preview on Nov. 6. MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com
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Tree Giveaway Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului To celebrate Arbor Day, the Gardens will give away 1,000 native Hawaiian trees, one per person. Enjoy plant-care demonstrations and talk with experts. 9 a.m.–noon. 249-2798; Mnbg.org/events
Nov 6, Dec 4 First Friday Wailuku Nov 13, Dec 11 Second Friday Lahaina Nov 20, Dec 18 Third Friday Makawao Nov 27, Dec 25 Fourth Friday Kīhei
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Margaret Cho Castle Theater, MACC No subject is off limits when this provocative stand-up comedian brings her PsyCHO Tour to Maui. Mature audiences only. 7:30 p.m.
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8, 26, 2829; DECEMBER 2627
Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more, under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
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Heritage Film Festival: The Hawaiian Room McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Be transported to a time when hula, Hawaiian music, and aloha enchanted big-city audiences. The Hula Preservation Society presents this film highlighting the legacy of the Hawaiian Room at New York’s Hotel Lexington during the years 1937 to 1966. Q&A with several of the original dancers follows. 3 p.m.
LEFT & LOWER RIGHT: COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; TOP RIGHT: EARL THOMPSON
calendar
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Feast at Lele v10n5-mnko
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kipa mai (welcome) . . .
Share the aloha in a journey through Polynesia. The Feast at Lele brings you a royal tour of the cuisine of Polynesia which shares the spotlight with music and dance from four exotic Pacific islands.
Come visit,
H awa i ‘ i
“This is the most fabulous cooking on Maui, which is saying a lot.” —Travel & Leisure “an intimate experience with ‘up to date’ Polynesian cuisine . . . the entertainment is top-notch.”
Ao t e a r o a
—Travel Holiday
Ta h i t i
Brought to you by the creators of Old Lahaina Lu‘au & Pacific’O Restaurant. Menu developed by “Maui’s Best Chef” (The Maui News), James McDonald.
667-LELE (5353)
Toll Free : (866) 244-5353 (Lele) 505 Front Street, Lahaina Town, Maui, Hawai‘i 96761 www.feastatlele.com
Samoa
Photos: Robie Price
For reservations call
Your best choice f� Property Management
Unlikely Liberators, November 10–January 29
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–JANUARY 29
“DMI was instrumental in getting our association’s books in order and our records up to date. They have gone above and beyond what is required of a managing agent.” Alan McGuire, President, Kamaole Beach Club “DMI is the best.” Lois Koenig, President, Kamaole Sands Board of Directors “DMI has done an effective and informative job in helping us work through the many challenges arising in a changing economy.” Jan Davidson, President, The Association of Apartment Owners,The Palms at Wailea.
We strive to be �e best, not �e biggest. DESTINATION MAUI, INC Lic. #RB-14350
808-244-9021 Ron Kawahara, President dmi@destinationmaui.net CPA, CVA, CPM, PCAM www.DestinationMaui.net 220 Imi Kala St., Suite 104, Wailuku, HI 96793
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Dine Out for Hospice Maui Restaurants throughout the island will donate proceeds from today’s sales to the nonprofit organization that provides compassionate end-of-life care. For participating restaurants, visit HospiceMaui.org/ news-and-events/dine-out.
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The Theory of Everything McCoy Studio Theater, MACC AARP Hawai‘i presents this Oscar-winning film based on the life and love of celebrated physicist Stephen Hawking and Jane Wilde. 6 p.m.
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Sun Yat-sen Festival Wo Hing Museum 878 Front St., Lahaina This festival honors the man known as “the Father of Modern China” with cultural performances and displays, Chinese foods and teas, and a presentation on Dr. Sun’s work and his connection to Maui. 10 a.m.– 7 p.m. 661-5553; LahainaRestoration.org
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Hula o nā Keiki Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali Some of the finest young students of hula compete in ancient and modern versions, chant, and costume. The weekend includes demonstrations and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts, entertainment and more.
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Life Is Sweet The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea Sample and vote for your favorite desserts, prepared by Wailea’s top chefs. Enjoy live music, wine tastings and pūpū, prizes, and a silent auction at this benefit for Best Buddies Hawai‘i. Actress Maureen McCormick (Marcia Brady from The Brady Bunch) emcees. 2–5 p.m. BestBuddiesHawaii.org
COURTESY OF NISEI VETERANS MEMORIAL CENTER
For over 40 years, Destination Maui, Inc. has led the industry in the management of homeowner associations. Protection of client assets, financial reporting, knowledge and integrity are some of the hallmarks that distinguish DMI from its peers.
Unlikely Liberators Nisei Veterans Memorial Center 665 Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului This photo exhibit highlights the U.S. Army’s 522nd Field Artillery Battalion, part of the 442nd Regimental Combat Team of primarily Japanese Americans (many from Hawai‘i) who fought in World War II. Curated by military historian Eric Saul, the exhibit documents the 522’s rescue of Dachau concentration camp prisoners. Free admission; donations welcome. Monday– Saturday, noon–4 p.m. Nvmc.org
MauiMagazine.net
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Volatility Creates
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Dahlak Brathwaite: Spiritrials, November 19
Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner John Bresnahan, Portfolio Management Barry Hyman, MBA, Hawaii Branch Manager Linda Barcheski, Client Services Ed Dowd, MBA, Portfolio Management
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Go Red for Women Fairmont Kea Lani Resort 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea The luncheon and health expo features a cooking demonstration, health screenings, silent auction, and other activities to educate women about their numberone cause of death: heart disease. 9 a.m.–1:30 p.m. MauiGoRedLuncheon.org
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Habitat for Humanity Golf Extravaganza Kahili Golf Course 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū This benefit golf tournament features a four-person format with prizes for closest to the pin, longest drive, and hole-in-one. Habitat-Maui.org
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Bocce Ball Tournament Maui Nui Golf Club 470 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei This “bocce bash” features five games of round-robin play, plus heavy pūpū and desserts. Team costumes are encouraged. 4:30–9:30 p.m. 874-0777; MauiNui GolfClub.com
Experience Maui
Without Breaking Your Budget
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COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
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Dahlak Brathwaite: Spiritrials Castle Theater, MACC This multidimensional theatrical piece chronicles Brathwaite’s journey of criminalization, and his struggle to be vindicated in the eyes of society and the law. Contains strong language and mature themes. 7:30 p.m.
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Shane Victorino Celebrity Dinner & Golf Classic Wailea Golf Club Angels of Anaheim right fielder and Maui native Shane Victorino (the “Flyin’ Hawaiian”) returns for this celebrity tourney held on the Wailea Gold Course. Sports and entertainment celebrities tee up to raise funds for local programs serving Hawai‘i’s youth, followed by a gala dinner at Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. ShaneVictorinoFoundation.org
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Hui No‘eau Wailea Food & Wine Celebration Hotel Wailea 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea Toast the Hui’s mission to support community arts education. The evening features a silent auction and generous tastes by top isle chefs and vintners. Tickets and details: 572-6560; HuiFoodWine.Weebly.com
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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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Discover 90+ local artists BANYAN TREE GALLERY AND
THE OLD JAIL GALLERY Browse our two galleries in the Old Lahaina Courthouse open daily 9-5 and enjoy the weekend fine art fairs under the Banyan Tree.
648 Wharf Street, Lahaina 808-661-0111 | info@lahaina-arts.com www.lahainaarts.com
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Hāna Limu Festival Hāna Bay, Hāna Educational activities, silent auction, entertainment, and more. (See info on page 26.) Muolea.org
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Mai Poina: The Trial of a Queen McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Victoria Kneubuhl’s courtroom drama reenacts Queen Lili‘uokalani’s trial for treason, and explores unresolved sovereignty issues triggered by the U.S. overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy. A discussion follows. 7:30 p.m.
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Maui Jim Maui Invitational Lahaina Civic Center 1840 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina Catch the action as top players from Chaminade, Indiana, Kansas, St. John’s, UCLA, UNLV, Vanderbilt and Wake Forest treat fans to close-up, unparalleled college-basketball excitement. MauiInvitational.com
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Hui Holidays Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao Find that one-of-a-kind gift in this artisan showcase: jewelry, ceramics, paintings, photography, fiber, glass, holiday ornaments, Hui Print Collection calendars and more. HuiNoeau.com
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Charlie Musselwhite Castle Theater, MACC A legendary blues harmonica player, Musselwhite has earned 35 Blues Music Awards, 11 Grammy nominations, and induction into the Blues Music Hall of Fame. 7:30 p.m.
808 276 2764 waterlilymaui.com
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Maui Forest Birds Benefit Maui Brewing Company Kahana Gateway Shopping Center 4405 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana Enjoy a brew and help the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project protect the island’s native avian species. Half the pub’s profit from the sale of house beers benefits this nonprofit organization. 6–10 p.m.
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Elf: The Musical Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents the musical based on the 2003 Will Ferrell film about a human raised as an elf at the North Pole. For days and times, visit MauiOnStage.com.
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Christmas Bells McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Maui Choral Arts presents its annual concert of holiday classics and sing-alongs. 7:30 p.m.
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Art in the Park Birthday Celebration Banyan Tree Park 648 Wharf St., Lahaina Lahaina Arts Society celebrates 48 years of supporting local arts with entertainment, a tie-dye workshop, face painting, birthday cake and more. From 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., bid on works by island artists in a silent auction benefiting children’s arts programs. 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
DECEMBER
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The Green Room Presents Susan Casey McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Bestselling author Susan Casey (The Devil’s Teeth, The Wave) shares her experiences with dolphins while researching her latest book. A fundraiser for the nonprofit Merwin Conservancy. 7 p.m.
We specialize in tools for transformation! We offer a selection of hundreds of alchemy singing crystal bowls, accessories, jewelry, fine art and more. Visit our galleries in upcountry Maui and southshore Kaua’i to experience the healing harmonics of these powerful bowls.
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Kaua’i
5330 Koloa Road Koloa, Kaua’i 96756 808.651.9954
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015
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Lahaina Art Society featured artist Marty Wolff, December 7–January 3
Open Studios Botanical & Historical Tours Made on Maui Artwork Gallery Shop Fine Art Exhibitions Historical Exhibition Free Glassblowing Demos
Mon. & Wed. 10am - 1pm
HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER OPEN DAILY 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM 2841 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, HI (808) 572-6560 • huinoeau.com
Hawai’i Tourism Authority & the County of Maui support Hui No’eau!
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Moloka‘i Christmas Light Parade & Ho‘olaule‘a Kaunakakai, Moloka‘i Holiday activities for the whole family. (See details on page 26.) 808-553-3773; MolokaiIslandFoundation. com
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Holiday Pops Castle Theater, MACC Australian pianist Bernard Waltz joins the Maui Pops Orchestra for this upbeat holiday concert. 3 p.m. MauiPops.org. Tickets at the MACC’s box office.
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Holiday Tree Lighting Grand Wailea Resort The hotel flips the switch to more than eight miles of twinkling lights during this benefit for Boys & Girls Clubs of Maui. Enjoy holiday entertainment, cookies and cocoa, and visit a gingerbread village created by more than 100 children and the hotel’s pastry department. Create an ornament for $1, and Grand Wailea will match the donations up to $2,500. 875-1234; GrandWailea.com
MARTY WOLFF
Youth & Adult Art Classes
Free Samples! FREE PIECE OF FUDGE with $20 purchase! Use promo code “NOKAOI” for online orders.
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KIHEI SHOP
815 Front Street 1945 S. Kihei Road
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–JANUARY 3
Featured Artist Marty Wolff Banyan Tree Gallery Wolff’s vibrant photography on metal depicts humpback whales, European scenes, and landscapes.
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Last Comic Standing Live Tour Castle Theater, MACC NBC’s Emmy-nominated comic competition features this year’s winner and finalists, picked by Roseanne Barr, Keenen Ivory Wayans and Norm Macdonald. 7:30 p.m.
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Jake Shimabukuro Castle Theater, MACC Renowned for his complex and lightning-fast finger work, this ‘ukulele wizard has redefined the instrument with a repertoire that includes Hawaiian, jazz, rock, bluegrass, flamenco, classical, and more. 7:30 p.m.
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Holiday Tree Lighting MauiWine at Ulupalakua Ranch 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., Kula This annual tree-lighting ceremony also features live entertainment, holiday crafts and activities, an outdoor cinema, and festive food and drink. Bring blanket or low-back lawn chair. Free admission; please bring one can of nonperishable food for Maui Food Bank. 4:30–7:30 p.m. MauiWine.com
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Need a Little Need a Little NeedFreedom? a Little Freedom? Freedom?
Golf Channel Am Tour Hawai‘i Amateur Championship When it comes to your health, freedom to Wailea Golf Club The largest amateur golf tournament in North Americhoose may be very important to you. That’s ca invites players of all ages and skill levels When to tee it off,comes to your freedom to choosetomay behealth very whyhealth, it could be valuable have with the top three finishers in each divisionimportant earning to you. That’s insurance that: be valuable to have health why it could an exemption into the 2016 National Championship. When it insurance comes to that: your health, freedom to choose may be very • Lets you choose any doctor who accepts GcamTour.com important to you. That’s why it could be valuable to have health
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Need a Little Freedom? Medicare patients.
• Lets insurance that:you choose any doctor who accepts Medicare patients.
Winter Concert • Travels with you anywhere you go in the U.S. • Travels with you anywhere you go in the U.S. Historic ‘Īao• Lets Theater • Gives you choice of specialists, When itwho comes toayour health, freedom to choosewith may be very you choose any doctor accepts Medicare patients. • Gives you a choice of specialists, with Maui Chamber Orchestra presents holiday favorites. important to you. whyvirtually it needed. could benovaluable to have health virtually noThat’s referrals • Travels with you anywhere you go in the U.S. referrals needed.insurance that: 7:30 p.m. Saturday, 3 p.m. Sunday
JANUARY
1
With a standardized Medicare supplement • Gives With you aa choice of specialists, withany virtually no accepts standardized Medicare supplement insurance plan, • Lets you choose doctor who kind patients. insurance plan, that’s the ofMedicare freedom referrals needed. that’s the kind of freedom • Travelsyou withget. you anywhere you go in the U.S. you get.
• Gives you a choice insurance of specialists, with virtually no With a standardized Medicare supplement plan, Let’s Freedom Together referralsFind that’s theLet’s kind of freedom get. needed. Together Find you Freedom
Mahermageddon Castle Theater, MACC Start by gettingMedicare more supplement information. As plan, With a standardized insurance The man who opened the floodgates of funnyStart political that’s the kind of freedom youagent get. authorized a licensed insurance by getting more information. As a licensed insurance agent talk with his TV shows Politically Incorrect and Real ® to offer AARP® MedicareInsurance Supplement Medicare Supplement Plans, authorized Time, Bill Maher brings his biting wit and social com- to offer AARP Let’s Find Freedom Together Insurance Plans, insured by Insurance Company (UnitedHealthcare), insured by UnitedHealthcare mentary to the Castle stage with guests Spademore information. As a licensed insurance agent Start David by getting UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company getting more information. As a licensed and Jeff Ross. Adult content and language. 7:30 p.m. plans with I’ll review youbyand answer your questions to helpinsurance you agent ® Start
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Let’s Find Freedom Together
SupplementI’ll Insurance Plans,Insurance authorized to offer AARP Medicare (UnitedHealthcare), review plans with Plans, Supplement authorized to offer AARP® Medicare find a plan that fits your needs.
you and answer yourInsurance questions to help Insurance Company (UnitedHealthcare), insured by UnitedHealthcare Straight No Chaser Company (UnitedHealthcare), insured by UnitedHealthcare you findplans a plan that your needs. Castle Theater, MACC I’ll review with you andfits answer questions I’ll review plans with you and answer your questions to your help you to help you This audience-pleasing a cappella group performs an find a plan that fits your needs. find a plan that fits your needs. eclectic array of songs from its fifth album, The New Old Fashioned. 7:30 p.m.
CALL TodAy!
CALL TodAy! John Peters CALL TodAy!
6-10
Hyundai Tournament of Licensed insurance agent contracted with UnitedHealthcare John Peters Champions 808-344-4157 Licensed insurance agent contracted with UnitedHealthcare Plantation Course, Kapalua Resort John Peters 808-344-4157 John.Peters@Ymail.com 808-344-4157 The season opener for the 2016 PGA Tour features Licensed insurance agent contracted with UnitedHealthcare John.Peters@Ymail.com a winners-only format of 2015 champions. PGATour. Please note that you must be an AARP member to808-344-4157 enroll in an AARP Medicare Supplement Plan. If you are not a member, you can join AARP when you enroll. com/Hyundai
note that you must be an AARP member enroll inby anUnitedHealthcare AARP Medicare Supplement Plan.Company. If you are not a member, you canInsurance join AARP when you enroll. AARP endorses the AARP Please Medicare Supplement Insurance Plans, to insured Insurance UnitedHealthcare Company pays John.Peters@Ymail.com AARP the AARP Medicare Supplement Insurance Plans, for insured UnitedHealthcare UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company pays royalty fees to AARP for the useendorses of its intellectual property. These fees are used the by general purposesInsurance of AARP.Company. AARP and its affiliates are not insurers.
Email your event to Calendar@Maui fees to AARP for the use of its intellectual property. These fees are used for the general purposes of AARP. AARP and its affiliates are not insurers. AARP does not employ orroyalty endorse agents, brokers or producers. AARP does not employ or endorse agents, brokers or producers. Magazine.net, or visit MauiMagazine. Insured by must UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company, Horsham, PAMedicare (UnitedHealthcare Insurance of New York, NYjoin for York residents). Policy Insured by UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company, Horsham, PA (UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company of NewIslandia, York, NYNew for New York residents). Policy Please note that you be an AARP member to enroll in an AARP Supplement Plan. IfCompany you are not a member, youIslandia, can AARP when you enroll. net/Calendar and scroll down to “Submit New Form No. GRP 79171 GPS-1 some(G-36000-4). states, plans maystates, be available ageunder 65 who arewho eligible for Medicare by reason Form(G-36000-4). No. GRP 79171InGPS-1 In some plans maytobepersons available under to persons age 65 are eligible for Medicare reasonof of disability disability AARP endorses the AARP Medicare Supplement Insurance Plans, insured by UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company. UnitedHealthcare InsurancebyCompany pays or End-Stage Renal Disease. or End-Stage Renal Disease. Event” to post it online. Listings for MNKO’s royalty feesNot to connected AARP for the useorofendorsed its connected intellectual property. These fees used foror the purposes of AARP. AARP and its affiliates are not insurers. Not with or endorsed by the U.S. Government thegeneral federal Medicare program. with by the U.S. Government or are the federal Medicare program. January–February print edition must This is a solicitation insurance. A licensed insurance agent/producer contact you. AARP doesbe not employ or endorse agents, brokers orofproducers. This is a solicitation of insurance. A licensed insurance agent/producer may contactmay you. received by November 13. Photos for print Call the licensed insurance agent at the telephone number in this advertisement for complete includingNY benefits, costs, eligibility requirements, Insured by Call UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company, Horsham,number PA (UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company of Newinformation York, Islandia, New York residents). Policy the licensed insurance agent at telephone in this advertisement for complete information including benefits,for costs, eligibility requirements, exclusions andthe limitations. must be 300 dpi. Listings are Form free, No. subject to and GRP 79171 GPS-1 (G-36000-4). In some states, plans may be available to persons under age 65 who are eligible for Medicare by reason of disability exclusions limitations. editing, and used as space permits. or End-Stage Renal Disease. AS2722ST (03-14) NM AS2722ST (03-14)by the U.S. Government or the federal Medicare program. Not connected with or endorsed NM This is a solicitation of insurance. A licensed insurance agent/producer may contact you. Call the licensed insurance agent at the telephone number in this advertisement for complete information including benefits, costs, eligibility requirements, Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2015 exclusions and limitations.
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who’s who ‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui | August 21, 2015 | Benefit for Maui Culinary Academy
L to R: Richard & Judith Michaels, Ron & Peggy Schecter|Bud & Diane Pikrone| Becky & Chris Speere|James Maher, Charles Fredy
L to R: Oscar & Olga Jimenez, Rayo McPhee, Dean & Carolina Louie|Philip, Sandra, Molly & Mairin McCarthey|Roxanne Scott, Randy Omel|Stacey Casco, Steve Sanchez
KE ALAHELE | Fairmont Kea Lani Maui | August 29, 2015 | Benefit for STEM education programs
L to R: Della & Lester Nakamoto|Colleen Brady, Effie Cameron|Peggy & BK King|Gene & Beryl Bal
L to R: KC Brooks, David LeFevre| Lance Lew, Cassandra & Andre Gray| Katie McMillan, Georgia Constance, Eva Gidlow| Jim & Rachel McGough
Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at MauiMagazine.net/WhosWho.
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JOSE MORALES; MIDDLE ROW: CASEY NISHIKAWA
HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL: LEGEND OF SHEP GORDON | Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa | September 6, 2015
LIVE MUSIC AND FOOD TASTINGS THE THIRD WEDNESDAY OF EACH MONTH, 6:30 TO 8PM
presented by
You are invited to shop, sample, and enjoy a special musical performance by local artists. Tasty menu samplings, mini-makeovers, entertainment and more—just for you. Free and open to the public. 4-hour event parking for $1—proceeds benefit Maui Food Bank.
3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Visit us online for monthly updates . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .
liddo bitta tita! ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FOSTER
T’anks–island style Small kid time, right aftah Halloween, our firs’, secon’, an’ t’ird grade teachahs would break out da orange an’ brown construction pepa, an’ da Elmah’s Glue, an’ da scissors wit’ da round ends so we no can hurt ourselves, an’ fo’ da nex’ t’ree weeks, we would do T’anksgiving crafts. We trace our handprints fo’ draw turkeys, we cut out autumn leaves an’ pin ‘em to da bulletin board, we make Pilgrim hats an’ Indjun headbands, an’ den we ack out da firs’ T’anksgiving. Da las’ day of school, da day befo’ T’anksgiving Day, da cafeteria cook roas’ turkey wit’ gravy, mash potato, cream corn or canned green beans, candied yams, an’ one pumpkin square fo’ dassert. Den da nex’ day at home, we eat da same exack t’ing fo’ T’anksgiving dinnah. Me,
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I nevah mind da turkey two days in a row, ‘cause dat was da only time all year we get fo’ eat turkey. Aftah da turkey san’wiches an’ da turkey casserole an’ da turkey soup was all pau, couple, t’ree days laydah, we go back to our regulah food like fish an’ poi or Spam an’ rice. Back den, we used to celabrate T’anksgiving like we was on da mainland, no even cook rice fo’ dinnah. Ev’rybody try ack like da Waltons on TV. Pass da stuffing, John-Boy . . . I mean, Junior Boy. I nevah undastand how come. All da oddah big holladays had somet’ing fo’ localize ‘em: we sing Christmas carols in Hawaiian, blow Chinese firecrackahs on New Year’s, make flower leis fo’ Memorial Day, go Makawao Rodeo on Fourth of July weekend. Only T’anksgiving was full-on haole style. Nowadays, we put da local touch on T’anksgiving, but mos’ times, we only talkin’ about da food. We make kalua turkey and laulau, purple Okinawan sweet potato, maybe haupia pie fo’ dassert. But, you know, if you like do T’anksgiving Hawaiian style fo’ real kine, you gotta go alla way back to da olden days, when da ancient Hawaiians had one whole season fo’ give t’anks. Da Makahiki was dedacated to da god Lono; he da one was in charge of agricultcha an’ harvest. So da Hawaiians would give t’anks to Lono wit’ offerings of food an’ kapa (barkcloth) an’ woven mats, an’ dey would pray to him fo’ one noddah good year of crops. Da season of t’anks would start aroun’ late Octobah or early Novembah, when da constellation called Nā Huihui o Makali‘i, or Makali‘i fo’ short, would firs’ show up on da horizon. Da haoles call ‘em da Pleiades, or da Seven Sistahs. By da time da Makali‘i come out, da harvest was pau, an’ da Hawaiians was ready fo’ rest and recharge. Fo’ da nex’ four months, farming, fishing, an’ war was kapu. Was time fo’ peace an’ parties. Ev’ry island had big celabrations wit’ hula an’ sports contests like boxing an’ wrestling, surfing an’ swimming, hōlua (sled) an’ canoe races, or ‘ulu maika (bowling). Ev’rybody, from da ali‘i (chiefs) to da maka‘āinana (regulah folks), even da kids, could play. Da sports an’ games helped fo’ keep people in good shape, physically an’ mentally. Da religious ceremonies an’ feasts helped fo’ keep dem focused on spiritual renewal. By da time Makahiki pau, ev’rybody ready fo’ go back, work hard, fo’ da res’ a da year. I t’ink da Hawaiians had da right idea. No war, no work fo’ four months. If I had one work schedule li’dat, I would be counting my blessings all year long, not jus’ on one day. Tita is the pidgin-speaking alter ego of local actress and Mana‘o Radio cofounder/DJ Kathy Collins. Both Tita and Ms. Collins grew up on Maui.
WEB EXCLUSIVE To listen to Tita online—and order her awardwinning comedy CD Tita Out!—visit MauiMagazine.net.
MauiMagazine.net
B&L
Whalers Village 808-661-6806
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The Shops at Wailea 808-874-4900
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