Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Sep-Oct 2018 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

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The Volcano Next Door Inside Kīlauea’s Endless Eruption PLUS

Take a Waterfall Hike 5 Romantic Restaurants A Rainbow of Fashion

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Features 26 » Special Report

THE VOLCANO NEXT DOOR Our Big Island correspondent shares a first-person account along “The Road to Pele.” Story by Judy Edwards

36 » Adventure

TAKE A WATERFALL HIKE Hiking to a 300-foot waterfall in Kīpahulu is a trip through time. Story by Judy Edwards

44 » Island Style

A RAINBOW OF FASHION Which shade suits you best? There’s a spectrum of possibilities. Styling by Conn Brattain

50 » Hawaiian Soul

LIVING LACE Far more than forest decoration, ferns are essential to Hawaiian ecosystems and native culture. Story by Shannon Wianecki

« ISLAND LIVING» 62 » At Home

About Our Cover

Of the twenty-seven volcanic fissures that have opened in Puna since eruptions began on May 3, Fissure 8 (cover photo) has been the most active. By June, lava had covered a reported 5,000 acres, with no end in sight. Our story begins on page 26. Photo by Andrew Hara

SMALL WONDER An environmental entrepreneur goes upscale while downsizing. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

76 » Great Finds

THE WOODS ARE LOVELY . . . They may not be what Robert Frost had in mind, but we promise they’re finds you’ll want to keep. Compiled by Marluy Andrade

80 » Gardening

A GARDEN INDOORS We ask an expert for help dusting off our green thumbs. Story by Savy Janssen

86 » Real Estate Trends VALUE JUDGEMENTS What happens when conservation is part of a business model? Story by Teya Penniman

56 » Island Business

GROWING FARMERS A groundbreaking program cultivates people who seek to make farming their field. Story by Lehia Apana

MYKLE COYNE

Kiara Leuteneker models a rainbow of colors in island fashions you’ll find somewhere over on page 44. Mustard cotton waffle-weave top by Mois Mont at Holiday & Co. Immerse mermaid-scale necklace ($110), Merscale cuff, Mermesh ring, mermaid-scale hoops, all in 14K gold plate, by and at Keani Hawai‘i and Whalers Village. See our “Living Color” fashion spread for more.

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Departments 14 Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 Publisher’s Note

124 Calendar

Pinterest.com/MauiMagazine Facebook.com/MauiMagazine

« DINING »

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

Stories by Becky Speere

128 Who’s Who

A STUDY IN FIRST-CLASS DINING It’s one of Maui’s best-kept secrets—but you might not get in without a reservation.

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

Seen making the scene on Maui

18 Talk Story

130 A Perfect Day on Maui

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ by Kyle Ellison, Sarah Ruppenthal, & Shannon Wianecki

Twitter.com/MauiMag Instagram.com/MauiMag

TWO’S COMPANY A day that's just right for couples. Story by Lehia Apana

96 Dining Feature

102 Chef ’s Kitchen

BEST OF THE FEST See who took home awards at the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival’s seafood finale.

104 Dining Highlights

5 ROMANTIC RESTAURANTS Music may be the food of love, but when it comes to romantic dining, these restaurants are playing your song.

110 Mixology

FARM TO GLASS Try these recipes at home.

112 Dining Guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in September)

CONVERTIBLE LIVING Life Edited’s innovative ideas don’t stop on Maui. Watch a tiny NYC apartment transform at the pull of a lever or flip of a switch at MauiMagazine.net/ smart-home. HOT VIDEO Catch the action of Kīlauea’s latest flow, on the ground and in the air, at MauiMagazine. net/hawaii-volcano. CHASING WATERFALLS Find more photos from our waterfall adventure at Maui Magazine.net/kipahulu-hike. YOU CAN GET THERE FROM HERE. Follow Lehia Apana on a Perfect Day for lovers. The video is at Maui Magazine.net/upcountry-date.

KALI SPEERE

Looking for love? Our dining editor takes us to all the right places—five romantic restaurants, including The Mill House, whose pan-seared kanpachi is pictured below. Page 104

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Where on Maui would you take someone you want to impress on a date? To what I like to call the “edge,” which is reached via an easy hike through Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area to the bottom of Skyline Trail. It overlooks the north coast of Hawai‘i Island, and on a clear day you can see Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, Hualālai and the Kohala coastline across the ʻAlenuihāhā Channel. Bring a picnic basket full of goodies, too.—Becky Speere

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn CREATIVE DIRECTOR John Giordani SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere HOME & GARDEN EDITOR Sarah Ruppenthal WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox

Sunset, then stargazing at Polipoli!—Savy Janssen, summer intern I love the three-course dinner with lemongrass crème brûlée for dessert at Fleetwood’s on Front St.’s rooftop. The views, food and service are always great.—Adelle Lennox

STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch GREAT FINDS EDITOR Marluy Andrade EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Mieko Horikoshi CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Erin Maki CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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Maui’s beauty is impressive on its own, so I’d say enjoying something outdoors like a hike, being on the water, or even up in the air on a helicopter tour. (Like I’d really pay for a helicopter tour for two . . . stay single, save money!) —Ry-n Shimabuku

That’s easy. Watch the sunset from the bluffs on the North Shore with a bottle of wine, then dinner at Mama’s Fish House.—Chris Evans

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The top of Haleakalā on a new-moon night to see the Milky Way.—Mieko Horikoshi

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There is a not-so-well-kept secret in Hawai‘i that makes island living nō ka ‘oi (the best): On an island, we need each other. “How would you like to come to Hāna with me?” my friend Jill asked. “I’ve got a table at the Hāna Kū fundraiser. We can leave early, enjoy a leisurely drive, and spend the night. It’s not Africa, but it’s always an adventure!” Less than a month ago, Jill and I, along with a group of close friends, had been on safari in South Africa. We spent nearly three weeks in a world so far away, it took more than three days of planes, trains and automobiles just to get there. Hāna, although a white-knuckle drive, is less than two hours away. And having just experienced Hāna Kū—if only vicariously—in Lehia Apana’s story “Sustaining Culture” (MNKO July/August issue), how could I say no? As promised, Jill appeared in her SUV on the appointed Saturday. “We’ll take the back way,” she smiled, and helped me lug my travel gear into that beast of a car. Just as Africa lies on the opposite side of the globe from Hawai‘i, so Hāna sits on the opposite side of the mountain from our perch in Kula. That mountain, Haleakalā, comprises most of the landmass of Maui. And the “back way,” although no shorter, offers a road less traveled. Despite the prediction for rain, it was a gorgeous day. Sunlight spilled through the lovely old growth of ‘Ulupalakua’s legendary tree-lined road. Every so often, an opening in the canopy afforded a glimpse of the distant, cobalt-blue ocean. It wasn’t long, however, before green gave way to the golden landscape of Kahikinui. “Look at the grass,” Jill said admiringly. “It’s just like Africa.” And indeed it was. Kukuyu, the favored grass of the semiarid and open lands that stretch along Haleakalā’s leeward slopes to Kahikinui, is the same grass that covers the vast savannahs of Africa. The trees, too, are similar: acacia and ironwood, brush and random succulents in full bloom. Even protea, South Africa’s national flower, grows like a weed in my own backyard. I nod in surprised recognition. “Here we are, on a dot in the middle of the Pacific, and yet one so remarkably similar to a continent halfway around the world.” But similar only for the moment. In the blink of an eye, the arid terrain morphs to green again as our vehicle trundles into the bamboo forests and past verdant, waterfall-ribboned cliffs of Kīpahulu. (You can savor that experience in Judy Edwards’s adventure story “This Way to the Waterfall,” page 36.) As soon as we pull up to Jill’s little Hāna cottage, the smell of plumeria and ginger sweetens the thickened air. We rest, talk story, and choose mu‘umu‘u for the Old Hawai‘i-themed festivities ahead. At Hāna Kū, master chefs are all smiles as they present their creations prepared with aloha from local catch and produce. There are plenty of hugs, smiles, friendship, authentic Hawaiian music and hula to go around, as well. “This is what I love about Hāna,” Jill observes with pride, “community.” With a mouth too full to comment, I nod again, and once again find myself comparing our gathering here to the ones we wove memories out of in Africa. My favorite camp was the Okavango Delta Lodge in Botswana. Not just because of the beauty, but because the folks there made us feel like family. On our last evening, we shared a sumptuous meal, followed by impromptu, joyous song and dance performed by staff. Before I knew it, our guide, Derrin, had pulled me into the group, where I did the best I could to keep in step, delighted to share in the jubilation. Later, I asked Derrin, a well-educated young man who spoke perfect English, “Would you ever leave Botswana?” “No,” he answered with an easy smile, “Even though my immediate family is small, my family of Botswana is very large. If I need help, there is always someone to lend a hand. If my friend needs me, I am here for him.” Half a world away. I recall that connection—that what is most remarkable is not how we differ, but how we are the same. On an island, we need each other. Earth is an island.

MauiHealingRetreat.com Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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Story by Sarah Ruppenthal | Illustrations by Erin Makai

Fresh off the coconut wireless

I do’s ... & don’ts From a torrential downpour, to the stomach flu, to a no-amount-of-makeup-can-conceal-it pimple, even the most meticulously planned nuptials are not immune to life’s curveballs. While it’s always a good idea to expect the unexpected (and find the humor in it), there are ways to sidestep preventable hiccups before you walk down the aisle. We asked five Maui wedding professionals to share a few of the self-induced mishaps they’ve witnessed, and how to avoid making the same mistakes on your big day.

A STICKY SITUATION Maui has all of the ingredients for a badhair day: high humidity, salt-laden trade winds, and impromptu rain showers. That’s why choosing a local hair professional— someone who understands Hawai‘i’s meteorological nuances—is the safest bet, says Lauren Sneary, senior stylist at Salon 253 in Wailuku. A bride from Alaska learned this lesson the hard way: She’d flown her longtime stylist to Maui to do her wedding-day hair, and hired Lauren to style her bridesmaids’ tresses. Minutes before the ceremony, the distressed bride emerged from her hotel room in tears; her stylist had unwittingly overapplied an antihumidity spray, which left her locks looking shellacked. She asked Lauren to fix it, but there was no time.

THE DO-IT-HERSELF BRIDE Both Lauren and Maui wedding photographer Chris Evans have seen distraught brides regret their decision to cut costs by doing their own wedding-day makeup. Chris recalls a bride whose selfapplied mascara and foundation visibly melted as she exchanged her vows on a particularly hot and humid day. To make matters worse, she was also badly sunburned. “It was obvious to everyone that she was feeling self-conscious,” Chris says. A professional makeup artist can ensure you’re camera-ready and prevent a day-of

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meltdown with cosmetics that resist sweat and humidity. (They can camouflage a sunburn, too.)

AN UNSUITABLE COLOR While choosing a wedding dress is often a painstaking process, the groom’s attire rarely gets as much consideration—but it should, especially if you’re planning an outdoor Maui wedding. A light-gray suit with a pink tie may be trendy elsewhere, but in front of the lens in Hawai‘i, the vibrant hues of his natural surroundings can upstage the wearer. To create more contrast and stand out in every shot, Chris advises grooms to wear a black, navy, or dark-gray suit or tuxedo. Not to mention, if you go with a light-gray-andpink ensemble, you run the risk of looking like Pee-wee Herman.

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TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

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THE ELEVENTH-HOUR REQUEST

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

In his nearly four decades as a floral designer, one thing never fails to make Asa Ige cringe: A bride calls to order flowers the week of her wedding—because she wants them to be fresh. There’s a chance a florist might have the right blossoms in stock, but there’s never a guarantee. “People tend to think there’s an infinite supply of flowers growing here on Maui,” Asa says. “Unfortunately, that’s not the case.” Many blooms—even those seemingly ubiquitous purple orchids—are shipped to Maui from farms on Hawai‘i Island and as far away as Southeast Asia. For spontaneous, more informal events, there’s no harm in improvising, but if you have something specific in mind, Asa advises making arrangements at least six weeks in advance.

He’s catered countless weddings over the years, but there’s one reception Daniel Radovcich, executive chef of The Beast & Spoon, won’t soon forget. The bride and groom had requested a buffet dinner so their one-hundred-plus guests could graze throughout the evening. But to their horror, the moment dinner was served, the ravenous crowd attacked the buffet line en masse, piling their plates with food. A quick-thinking Daniel elbowed his way in to police the free-for-all. “If I hadn’t, they would have run out of food,” he recalls. Daniel says it’s a common blunder, and one that is easily avoidable. If you have your heart set on a help-yourself meal, work with your caterer to craft a portion-control plan. Ask for a designated server to regulate the

flow of traffic to and from the buffet table, opt for smaller plates, and have the more desirable menu items (and those that can be readily stockpiled, like shrimp cocktail) strategically placed at the end of the buffet line. And a catering rule of thumb? Always plan to have more food than you expect to be consumed. That way, you can accommodate voracious appetites, as well as any surprise guests who forgot to RSVP.

A ONE-TRACK MIND With more than a decade of wedding receptions under his belt, DJ Del Sol knows how to craft a crowd-pleasing playlist. So, when a bride and groom insisted on a single genre—indie rock—he tried to gently dissuade them. “When you’re planning your music, you should think about your guests, not just your own musical tastes,” he explains. But the couple was adamant, and Del obliged. As he anticipated, on the day of the wedding, no one but the newlyweds graced the dance floor. Visibly bewildered by the unfamiliar music, the couple’s guests remained seated throughout the evening.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION For any reception, Del says, not only is a versatile playlist a must; so is a strategic venue layout. Too often, he finds himself (and his speakers) awkwardly stationed in a far-off corner next to a table of older wedding-goers. Predictably, when the music starts, they ask Del to lower the volume, and moments later, a younger guest will approach him and say it isn’t loud enough. The intergenerational tug-of-war can be prevented by devising a layout that puts the deejay as close to the dance floor—and as far away from Great-aunt Edna’s sensitive eardrums—as possible. And better yet, Del adds, you’ll have optimal sound as you dance the night away.

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AT THE END OF THE DAY . . . “Leave it to the professionals. We know what we’re doing,” Asa says. And let a wedding coordinator do all of the heavy lifting for you. They’ll reduce the stress by handling the logistics, from reserving the venue to booking a caterer, florist, hairstylist, and photographer. But even if something goes awry, Chris says, never lose sight of one thing: “The point of the day is to celebrate the love of two people. If you achieve that, it’s a success.”

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TALK STORY day in the life

Ring Master NAME Pia Aluli TITLE Kahu (Wedding Officiant) PROPOSAL ACCEPTED Pia Aluli hasn’t always spoken at weddings—he started by singing at them. “I used to play music at hotels,” recalls Aluli, “and eventually that segued into singing at weddings. Two of the kahu performing ceremonies at the time said they thought I’d be good at it, so I gave it a try, and the next year they both retired.” That was in 1998, and he’s been busy ever since. These days, he marries up to thirtyfive couples every month. HE’D FOLLOW YOU ANYWHERE Over the last two decades, Aluli has officiated for couples saying “I do” from the top of Haleakalā to West Maui valleys that can only be reached by helicopter. He’s flown to Lake Tahoe and Costa Rica to help people exchange their vows, and he’s even paddled his longboard out to marry people in the surf. Although he is happy to perform more traditional ceremonies that follow a Western script, couples often seek Aluli out for his Hawaiian version, which includes an oli, or chant, and a bellowing blow on the conch shell. WITH THIS LEI Aluli encourages couples to exchange lei with one another, and offer them to friends and family who have come to see them tie the knot. “It helps blend the families together, but it’s also [a symbol] of life’s fragility, a reminder for couples to cherish this day for as long as they live.” His floral advice can be practical as well as metaphorical, reminding the soon-to-be bride and groom to “make sure you aren’t allergic to the type of lei you plan to wear for the ceremony. Also make sure the colors don’t match your dress; it’s tough to see white on white.” As for the kuleana (responsibility) his job represents, the smiling Aluli once again takes a contemplative tone: “It’s not just a gig. I’ve been given this gift to bring people together and get them started on the right path.”

Story by Kyle Ellison | Photo by Chris Evans

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TALK STORY in season

Wave Chasers Fall signals the return of Hawai‘i’s smallest seabirds: tiny sanderlings who spend summers in the Far North and winters in the Hawaiian Islands. The seafaring species weighs around two ounces, with wings that measure just seventeen inches from tip to tip. No matter—the tireless fliers manage to migrate here from their nesting grounds in the Arctic Circle. Once they’ve arrived, it’s easy to tell them apart from Hawai‘i’s other shorebirds: sanderlings are the only wave chasers. The plump little seabirds have pale grey wings and white bellies. They skitter along the shore on thin, dark legs. In Under the Sea Wind, the great American nature writer Rachel Carson described sanderlings as running “with a twinkle of black feet.” The wee opportunists have to be quick; they find their food in the receding tide, and race after each ebbing wave to snatch the crabs and other critters that lie exposed in the wet sand. The pocket-sized birds aren’t so easy to spot. They’re small and fast, and their silvery feathers disappear against the sunlit glare of the sea. Walk along the water’s edge at Kanahā Beach or Keālia Pond and you might accidentally flush a flock. When startled, sanderlings take flight, flashing the dark patches of their upper wings. Flocks of sanderlings are mesmerizing to watch. The shadowy birds move back and forth in sync with the tide, rippling like the lace hem of a liquid dress. Hawaiians captured this relationship perfectly when they called the bird hunakai, or “sea foam.” The same name also refers to the white-flowered beach morning glory that unfurls vining tendrils at the high-water mark. The global populations of sanderlings numbers around 700,000—but only a few hundred hunakai call Hawai‘i home. Sadly, the species appears to be in decline, threatened by shoreline development, oil spills, and climate change. Don’t miss an opportunity to watch the hunakai dance with the tide; they’re here from October to June.

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Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by Forrest & Kim Starr

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Rattle and ruin on the island next door STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW HARA 26

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Opposite: Luana Street, in the heart of Leilani Estates, is now home to Fissure 8, which became active on May 5. Here a geyser of lava spews cinder and other volcanic-rock fragments 200 feet into the air. Below: Categorized by its smooth and fluid thickness, pāhoehoe lava erases part of KalapanaKapoho Road, a.k.a Red Road, then breaches the ocean near MacKenzie State Recreation Area.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

SPECIAL REPORT A deceptively beautiful fountain of lava bursts out of Fissure 5, adding to a forty-foot cone near Leilani Avenue and Kaukahi Street in Puna.

When she’s not writing lyrical prose for us, Judy Edwards works for a nonprofit that supports national parks. We asked her to share what it’s like to live next to a volcano. In my imagination, I can clearly see the lānai of my friend Tim’s house, its two chairs facing the liliko‘i vines and the young avocado tree. I can feel the crunch of the driveway’s sharp and glossy cinders, which would inevitable get kicked into the house, stuck to the bottoms of my slippers. During the summer of 2011, Tim was kind enough to rent this house to me (newly moved from Maui) until I could find something more long-term in Hilo. That house, with its tropical living-room mural and big water catchment tank out back, exists only in my memories. Last May, its very molecules were obliterated under a lava lake that is now many times the height of the former roofline. The house used to stand on Ho‘okupu Street in the Leilani subdivision. One day, the yard next door sprouted what would be labeled, in this eruptive phase of Kīlauea Volcano, “Fissure 21.” Then a huge crack appeared, running diagonally under the house. As the daily video footage came in from U.S. Geological Survey helicopters, we watched the roof, with its prized solar panels, wash away on a tide of red and black. It is impossible to comprehend where the street once ran. Things have changed fundamentally. As in, to the fundament. The very ground. While it is technically true that the current, powerful eruption is “happening directly” only to a relatively small segment of Hawai‘i Island’s vast Puna District, that assessment belies the massive devastation Kīlauea is meting out. Yes, only a small amount of land is covered by lava, or probably will be, but braiding and unbraiding flows have dissected what was once a functionally homogeneous community that now finds itself painted into some complex and perplexing corners. There are farms and homesteads spared by the lava, yet surrounded by it—helicopters have airlifted stranded cattle out in nets over raging lava rivers. The farms can’t be worked,

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the homes can’t be inhabited; they exist in a kind of lava limbo. Others are even less lucky. By mid-June, some 700 homes had been lost to the lava, possibly thousands of residents made houseless. How do we assess the stability of a community that is, in part, living in tents in a parking lot in Pahoa? The magma currently rising to the surface in the Leilani subdivision was once held at and under the 4,000-foot summit of Kīlauea, many miles away, and also inside and under the Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō cinder cone, roughly ten miles below the summit. Since 2008, millions of people have visited Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park to marvel at a black-and-gold lava lake shifting and shimmering inside of Halema‘uma‘u Crater, a mere two miles from the public observation deck outside of Jaggar Museum, named for twentieth-century volcanologist Thomas A. Jaggar. But volcanoes are living things, with moods and cycles, and Kīlauea shifted its mood abruptly in May. The magma held in Pu‘u ‘Ō‘ō and at the summit drained, rapidly. The summit began deflating (imagine a vast soufflé collapsing in slow, slow motion), and that, along with the subsequent steam and ash eruptions, and constant, undulating earthquakes, triggered a swift evacuation of the national park buildings and all related offices and businesses at the summit, one office of which was mine. I work for a nonprofit that partners with national parks. Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is not only a partner, but was the location of our offices, our two bustling park stores (in the visitor center and in Jaggar Museum), and warehouses. As of this writing, in July, the summit caldera of Kīlauea is collapsing inexorably, fracturing the ground under the highway that passes the park entrance, and stressing the roads in nearby Volcano Village. Jaggar Museum is being slowly pulled craterward, with cracking walls and tilting floors. We fear that our offices, located in converted, classic stone-andwood homes from the 1930s, may be too damaged to return to. Our Continued on page 34.

Before-and-after aerial photos reveal the phenomenal change in the landscape along the beloved Kapoho shoreline. Red dashes in the picture above outline the boundary of devastation caused by flows pouring from Fissure 8, consuming hundreds of homes, with no end in sight.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

SPECIAL REPORT Of the twenty-seven fissures that have opened in Puna since eruptions began on May 3, Fissure 8 has been the most active. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, its lava fountains have formed a 180-foot-tall cinder coneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;so far.

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MAUI CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Pāhoehoe from Fissure 21 oozes inexorably forward, devouring asphalt and terrain around Luana Street and Leilani Avenue.

Hilo

Sulfur vents generate high concentrations of steam and sulfur dioxide within Leilani Estates. Lava spatter hardens on a tree branch on Moku Street near a large volcanic opening. These potentially deadly fragments have seriously injured at least one islander, who was struck while standing on a third-floor balcony. Lava ejected from Fissure 15 on Leilani Avenue sets fire to a power line. Vegetation continues to char, suffocated by high amounts of gas and smoke. Curtains of gas, ash, and debris from Halema‘uma‘u Crater shower the southern summit of Kīlauea Caldera after a large rock fall.

HAWAI‘I “Big Island”

Kapoho

Mauna Loa Summit

Leilani Estates Kīlauea Crater

2018 Flows

Pu‘u O‘o

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

SPECIAL REPORT

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Streams of gaseous lava bubble up from Fissure 20, swiftly moving east from the bottom of Leilani Estates toward the ocean.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

SPECIAL REPORT

staff is huddled in a temporary office in Hilo, our stores are opening in locations outside of the park. Meanwhile, thirty-five miles above Hilo, the continuous salvo of round-the-clock earthquakes frays the nerves of communities around the summit. Everyone is keeping a close eye on their water and electricity connections. Some are thinking it may be time to leave. On May 28th, having watched countless videos of the Leilani eruption from every source I could find, and hearing from the many friends and acquaintances who had had to evacuate the neighborhood or scramble to help their friends and family evacuate, I had to understand this eruption viscerally, to see it, to feel it. I decided to fly over the eruption by helicopter. First, let me say that even Kīlauea’s mildest flows, the ones you can sit near, or walk by, or stand a few feet away from and photograph, feel animate, intentional. The science part of my brain understands perfectly well that I am looking at melted rock. The part of me that has been in Hawai‘i, bounded by Hawaiian culture, since 1994, has a sense of something else going on. The English language fails me a bit here. If a two-foot-thick lava flow feels alive, what I saw from my aerial perch belonged to the realm of gods and goddesses. Every GOOD NEIGHBORS An ocean channel thirty miles wide separates Maui and Hawai‘i Island, but in the wake of Kīlauea’s eruption, no distance has proved too great for aloha. One of the larger efforts to kōkua (help) the “Big Island’s” Puna District is Kōkua Puna, organized to send much-needed items to evacuees. In May, the Maui community rallied to Kōkua Puna’s mission, filling a twenty-foot shipping container with tents, cots, sleeping bags, coolers, flashlights, batteries, cellphone chargers, bottled water, first-aid kits and more. Maui businesses donated supplies and financial support, helping to create “a big gift box of aloha from Maui.” Hana hou translates as “Do it again,” and do it again, they did. In June, the Hana Hou Kōkua Puna filled a second container to overflowing.

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Pele chant I have ever heard crowded into my mind as I looked down on 300-foot twin curtains of brilliant, hot-orange lava, and below that, a flow that kept outpacing itself—emerging so fast and hot that the front of the flow, much taller than the houses it was devouring, rolled forward like tank treads, the top rolling over the base. The flows reached forward like enormous, cracking, black and red hands, their fingers spreading wide where vegetation burned like twinkling holiday lights. The lava seemed to claw the ground, pulling itself forward. All of the terms I’d heard in Pele chants, of grabbing and grasping, of the ground being eaten, flooded my mind as our metal hummingbird hung in the air. I was suddenly aware that I was yelling into my hands, which were cupped in front of my face in overwhelm. I don’t know what I was yelling. I do know that I was swept with a sense of our tiny, tiny, human scale. What was unfolding far below us was so powerful, so vast, and so clearly just beginning. Energy born in the volcano’s molten depths fought to unleash itself. From our vantage 3,000 feet in the air, we looked down at shimmering black and hot gold and blood red in motion, houses bursting into startled fire at the margins of the thick and spreading lake of liquid stone.

And on July 8, Maui Tropical Plantation hosted Project Kōkua, a fundraiser for residents displaced or made homeless by the eruption. Held in partnership with the Rotary Club of Maui, Project Kōkua was the brainchild of Sheraton Maui chef Lyndon Honda, event planner Lisa Villiarimo, and her husband (and Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awardwinning musician), Halemanu Villiarimo. Twenty top Maui chefs volunteered their time and talent—as did Halemanu—and 400 guests raised upwards of $35,000. “Hawai‘i is a unique place,” Chef Honda said. “Though not connected by land, we are connected in our aloha. In times like this, we come together to kōkua where we are able.” HOW TO HELP First and foremost, visit. Kīlauea’s eruption has struck a blow to the

visitor industry, one of the largest employers in the islands, adding to the challenges faced not only on Hawai‘i Island, but throughout the state. Most of the Big Island, like the rest of Hawai‘i, remains unscathed, its communities in need of tourism dollars, and eager to share their aloha. So come. A host of organizations have other ways for you to help. Among them: •Project Kōkua Checks and money orders payable to Lahaina Rotary Youth Foundation may be sent to Project Kōkua, P.O. Box 1481, Pu‘unēnē, HI 96784. •American Red Cross, Hawai‘i Chapter Donate, or volunteer at any Red Cross location on Hawai‘i Island. •Food Basket Hawaii 808-933-6030, HawaiiFoodBasket.org

Opposite: Streams of molten lava fan out along the southern side of Leilani Estates. Below: Onlookers stand mesmerized by the pyrotechnics emanating from Fissure 8 on the northern end of Luana Street.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN BROCK

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ADVENTURE

Bamboo is not native to Hawai‘i; Polynesian settlers introduced the plant to these islands long ago. Still, bamboo is undeniably beautiful, and traversing the path through this “forest” can be a soothing meditation. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

ADVENTURE

On a damp April day that threatened rain, I packed a good friend and a French hitchhiker into my car and headed to Kīpahulu’s ‘Ōhe‘o gulch to reimmerse myself in a hike I hadn’t made in seven years. I was overdue for a date with Waimoku, the roughly 400-foot falls cascading down the face of a U-shaped valley headland at the end of two-mile Pīpīwai Trail. Kīpahulu is actually a district, but most people think of it as a specific valley: the coastal section of Haleakalā National Park. The pristine upper part of the valley, known as the Kīpahulu Biological Reserve, protects one of the last, best, and most priceless ecosystems on Maui. It is closed to all but scientists and researchers, but the lower valley, which cradles Palikea Stream inside ‘Ōhe‘o gulch, is a public wonderland of deep green jungle, waterfalls, and crashing azure ocean against volcanic cliffs so dark they look purple. The drive from Kahului to Kīpahulu along Maui’s windward coast can take four hours or so, depending on how used to winding, cliff-snuggling roads you are, and how often you get tempted by roadside stands selling everything from butter-soaked banana bread to roasted breadfruit on a stick. The road is wet more often than not, and overhung with a ridiculous infinitude of greenery. The weather this day, though spotty during the drive, was on our side as we pulled up to the park entrance. A squall stood off to sea but the sun was gamely hanging in there above us, occasionally

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obscured by dark lavender streamers of cloud. We always stop at the visitor center for updates before hiking the trail, as storms reshape this side of Maui constantly. Flash floods and rockfalls can close pools, trails can wash out or undergo repair and detours, and although Maui can seem like a playland, it is a living, changing island with dangers that have killed the brash or unprepared. Streams carve deep, beautiful gorges, but they do so without regard to who might be swimming in them when the volcano’s flanks rapidly shed water. After stopping in at the visitor center to catch up on local news and conditions, my friend and I stepped out to find a rainbow over the streambed . . . and learn that our French hitchhiker had hitchhiked immediately back the way we’d come. (Ah, the French, so mysterious. . . .) Pīpīwai Trail starts at the visitor center, very nearby the famous pools that formerly—and erroneously—were referred to as “Seven Sacred Pools.” We followed the trailhead as it wended mauka (uphill, away from the ocean), past the yodeling of a Chinese melodious laughing-thrush, a Hawaiian hale (dwelling, shelter) in midreconstruction by park personnel, and a little stand of mango and banana trees. From there we crossed the road and began an easy walk along the stream, the path gently ascending as we stepped over a tangle of exposed roots and mud. The trail here is sometimes

Makahiku Falls can be a feathery curtain or a booming cascade. When conditions are right, its 200-foot face may wear a rainbow generated by sparkling waterfall spray. Opposite, clockwise from left: Ōhe‘o Gulch is where mountain streams that have braided together reach the wild Pacific Ocean. Lush headlands march away westward from Kūloa Point. The park visitor center is compact but bursting with information and aloha.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

ADVENTURE

Left: Thoughtfully built steps lead on a path of scented ferns and birdsong. Below: Recycled plastic gains new purpose: a suspended boardwalk that keeps hikers’ feet above the mud. Opposite page, clockwise from top: This enormous banyan tree has been a childhood playground for generations of Maui visitors and residents, and is photographed by nearly everyone who passes underneath it. The nature of Pīpīwai stream is to cascade from pool to pool, starting at high elevations with small rivulets, and gradually gaining volume. The rustic wooden bridges that cross Waimoku’s streams offer peaceful places to just stop, breathe, and listen to the wild waters.

banked by fragrant laua‘e ferns with their soft scent of mint, and sometimes banked by not much more than a few trees and signs that hint strongly that you can, um, fall to your death here. The rainbow was still with us, a good sign in every culture, but sweeter to me was the light rain falling through the sunlight, creating an atmospheric shimmer that made the world seem slightly dreamy. I’ve always felt giddy in that kind of rain, which seems to me more like falling light than falling water. I’m not terribly woo-woo, but in Hawai‘i this has always felt like a blessing. The glittery air would stay with us for two miles as we hiked the gentle 800-foot rise to Waimoku Falls, dampening my hike notes and camera lens but keeping me cheerful. Not far into the hike, a low stone safety wall marks the overlook for Makahiku Falls—though on this day it was functioning as a place to prop phones so that couples could get rainbow selfies. The falls drop a graceful 200 feet from a smooth stone lip. Many people, myself included, used to clamber to and climb on that lip. I have vivid memories of scooting on my belly over the waterworn, sun-heated stone to look down at the pool below, usually triggering immediate vertigo and a belly-scramble backwards. At about the 1.5-mile point we let ourselves through a gate in a fence that used to help control cows from the neighboring ranch, and approached the magnificent banyan tree that generations have climbed, swung from, taken photos with, and generally obsessed over. It is one of the better-known trees in the park, though it’s not a native. (Hawai‘i’s banyans originated in India and China). This tree is a celebrity on Instagram. Once past some wild coffee trees growing into the path, we crossed a moss-slippery bridge over a small, frothy falls, and drifted into a tunnel of bamboo, taking our time to traverse this windchime “forest.” One more slick bridge across the rushing stream, and we were engulfed in deep green infinity. Bamboo is not native to Hawai‘i, either, and it has run unchecked here for decades. The

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

Informative maps and signage are designed to enrich your experience. Look for trailhead signs and wayside displays through the park.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The park’s mission includes restoring cultural sites like this hale. Along the trail you may find evidence of old kalo (taro) fields, where plants linger. So important was kalo in pre-Contact Hawai‘i that in ancient tales it is considered mankind’s older brother. Mosses clothe a stalk of ti in the rain-soaked back of the valley. White ginger is fragrant, but highly invasive, leaving room for nothing else where it establishes. Coffee grows wild along the trail, evidence of the long history of this African plant in Hawai‘i.

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effect—as we navigated the helpful boardwalk that suspended us above the nearly-year-round mud—is of walking in a tall, verdant dream of shifting light, a symphony of soft, echoing knocks. It is my theory that the bamboo creates a bit of a barrier for the upslope spread of exotic plants, because it wasn’t until we burst out of the bamboo that we could see bird’s-nest ferns, ‘ōhi‘a trees, and other native flora. A few minutes later, our eyes tracked upward—we had entered the amphitheater that showcases Waimoku Falls. On a wet day, this deeply curved headland is often silvered with slender falling streams in their own fernbordered tracks. I lay on the ground, letting the orientation of earth and sky flip, sensing the movement of water in the air, water in the earth, water in the track of clouds, happily falling under the spell of the place. A sign nearby warns hikers not to proceed because of the danger of rockfall. I have been here during a rockfall, and know the sign is more than hyperbole; earlier this year a visitor wandered off the trail and was killed this way. But even as I acknowledged the risk—and kept my distance—I reveled in the rich, wild, wet air that smelled of green plants and black stone and warmth. When I finally pulled my attention away from the falls, the gleam of sunlight seemed to switch off, and the gently drifting sparkle was rain again. We turned back, chattering for the two miles back to the parking lot. There, the sun made one last heroic effort and set a new rainbow above us, land and sea, tying the day up nicely with a ribbon of light. Note: As of this writing, the park has closed the pools and the streambed behind them while the sides of the gulch are stabilized. “With current historic rainfall, any cliff-side area could be dangerous,” says park superintendent Natalie Gates. “Remain on designated trails at all times.” For more information, call 572-4400, or check the park website (NPS.gov/hale) or Facebook page.

ADVENTURE

Waimoku Falls is a fine reward at the end of the two-mile trail. At 400 feet, it is one of the tallest accessible falls on Maui. Its immense beauty as it washes down the cliff face is poetry in motion.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

ISLAND STYLE

Which shade suits you best? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a rainbow of possibilities. STYLING & DIRECTION: CONN BRATTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY: MYKLE COYNE HAIR & MAKEUP: RY-N SHIMABUKU MODEL: KIARA LEUTENEKER ASSISTANT: SAVY JANSSEN

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THINK PINK Pink stretch-linen dress by Nicole Miller Artelier, $330, at Altitude, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 573-4733. Set of pale pink pear-shaped Morganite jewelry, all set in 14K rose gold: 4.98 ct. Morganite ring with 0.86 ct. diamonds; 3.33 ct. pear-shaped Morganite earrings with 10.73 ct. round diamonds; 7.16 ct. pear-shaped Morganite pendant with 0.76 ct. round diamonds; price upon request; all by and at Greenleaf Diamonds, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-1118, GreenleafDiamonds.com. ORANGE CRUSH Persimmon flared silk Brigitte dress by Kalita, $786; rose-gold studded sandals, $1,183, by Valentino Garavani, both at 22 Knots by Maris Collective, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Blush envelope clutch, $42, by and at Mahina, 23 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-9131; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 793-2231. Gold-beaded tassel necklace by Jemma Sands, $101, at Le Surf by Maris Collective, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-3810. Coral bead fringe hoop earrings, $28, by Ink + Alloy at Men’s and Women’s Boutique, The Shops at Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., 877-4325. Gold Apollo bangle, $52, and Collonade hinged bangle, $62, both by Brighton at Altitudes, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 573-4733.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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ISLAND STYLE MELLOW YELLOW Mustard cotton waffle-weave top by Mois Mont, $128, at Holiday & Co., 3681 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-1470. Merscale cuff, $500; Mermesh ring, $90; large mermaid scale hoops, $120; all in 14K gold plate; all by and at Keani Hawai‘i, 1156 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 727-2685; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 793-3342, KeaniJewelry.com. GREEN GODDESS Sage-green modal jersey maxi dress by Jules Los Angeles, $218, at Sassabella, 36 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 572-3552. Green agate bangle by Ruebelle, $95; gold leather zip pouch by Claire V., $85; both at Le Surf by Maris Collective, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-3810. Elaina gold chain necklace with teal drusy, $65; Elle gold drop earrings in chalcedony glass, $65; both by Kendra Scott at Pink Lilia - A Lilly Pulitzer Signature Store, The Shops at Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., 877-4325. Green tassel necklace, $20, by and at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792. Rose-gold studded sandals, $1,183, by Valentino Garavani, at 22 Knots by Maris Collective, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

ISLAND STYLE TRUE BLUE Azure-blue ramie wrap blouse, $228, matching wrap skirt, $278; both by Humanoid at Holiday & Co., 3681 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-1470. 14K gold Maui Gold pineapple texture ring, $100; and 14K gold Tropix pineapple texture pendant, $110; both by and at Keani Hawai‘i, 1156 Makawao, Ave., Makawao, 727-2685; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 793-3342, KeaniJewelry. com. Gold Apollo bangle, $52; and Collonade hinged bangle, $62; both by Brighton at Altitude, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 573-4733. Gold chandelier earrings by Annie Costello Brown, $260, at Le Surf by Maris Collective, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-3810. Blue clutch, $39, by and at Mahina, 23 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-9131; The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 868-4717; and Mahina.com. Rosegold studded sandals, $1,183, by Valentino Garavani, at 22 Knots by Maris Collective, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000.

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PURPLE PHASE Purple Paris sleeveless dress with pleated neckline by Ramy Brook, $345, at Men’s and Women’s Boutique at The Shops at Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 877-4325. A rainbow of peridot, citrine, rhodolite, amethyst, blue topaz, and green tourmaline set in 14K rose-gold: Eternal Love ring, $3,500; Eternal Love bracelet, $4,000; Eternal Love bangle with diamonds, $6,400; Poetry in Motion earrings with diamonds, $3,600; Love Note necklace with diamonds, $2,259; all by and at Na Hoku at The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8040; Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-5411; Hyatt Regency Maui Resort, 210 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-7780; and NaHoku.com.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

Far more than forest decoration, ferns are essential to Hawaiian ecosystems and native culture.

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NW NA IAN KU ECK A IN I | PHO TO G R A P H Y BY N

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Ke‘oni Baldwin weaves a lei of ferns while a distiller extracts the oils and essences he uses in his hydrosols and body oils. Opposite: Hula dancers seek out palapalai to adorn their wrists and ankles. The fern is said to be a kino lau (physical manifestation) of Laka, goddess of hula.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

HAWAIIAN SOUL

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OPPOSITE: NINA KUNA; TOP (2): JOHN GIORDANI; BOTTOM RIGHT: FOREST & KIM STARR

Kamapua‘a is a beloved character in many ancient Hawaiian mo‘olelo (stories). The shapeshifting demigod appears alternately as a handsome man, a fierce boar, a slippery humuhumunukunukuapua‘a (pig-nosed triggerfish), a curtain of misty rain, or a lush ‘ama‘u fern. One tale recounts how Kamapua‘a traveled to Kīlauea to woo the volcano goddess. Pele dismissed his advances, crying out, “‘A‘ohe ‘oe kanaka, he pua‘a ‘oe!” (“You are not a man, you are a pig!”) His pride stung, the feisty boar leapt towards the goddess. She hurled fire and molten lava while he summoned torrential rains to douse her flames. After the encounter, Kamapua‘a surrounded Pele’s fiery domain with fields of ferns. Thus the summit of Kīlauea is called Halema‘uma‘u, house of the ‘ama‘u fern. Ferns such as the ‘ama‘u provide a backdrop for myriad Hawaiian stories—and the foundation for Hawaiian ecosystems. Thanks to its striking colors, the ‘ama‘u is among Hawai‘i’s most recognizable native ferns. New fronds emerge bright red, and mature into shiny green. Synonymous with Halema‘uma‘u, the rainbow-hued beauties can also be found growing trailside at Haleakalā National Park. Ferns were among the first plants to colonize the Hawaiian archipelago. Many millions of years ago, wind-blown spores crossed the vast Pacific to land on freshly cooled lava, where they nestled into cracks, germinated, and grew. Over countless generations, these pioneer ferns evolved into more than 170 distinct species: some adapted to coastal strands, others to rainforests, and a few to frigid mountain summits. Hawai‘i’s ferns are forest builders. They Like the shapeshifting god who sometimes took their form, ferns have many different faces. Examples (above, left to right): the fiddlehead of an ‘ama‘u; the spore-dotted underside of laukahi; ‘ēkaha (bird’s nest fern); a hapu‘u (tree fern) in Makawao Forest Reserve. Left: The ‘ama‘u fern is a physical form of Kamapua‘a, a god whose relationship with volcano goddess Pele was fiery at best. Could it be that the bright red of the young frond is a symbol of their burning passions?

help break down mineral-rich lava into soil. As they decompose, they create habitat for the next wave of plants: hardy naupaka shrubs and noble ‘ōhi‘a trees. When Polynesian voyagers first made landfall in Hawai‘i, they found islands lush with ferns, the majority of which existed nowhere else on Earth. They cherished these dainty living laces, gave them poetic names, and wove them into stories and daily practices. ‘Ama‘u ferns played many roles in ancient Hawai‘i. Kāhuna (priests) and ali‘i (royalty) walked on paths softened by crushed ‘ama‘u fronds. Builders waterproofed thatched hale (houses) by stuffing ferns into the corners—a practice that continues today at Hale o Keawe, a royal mausoleum in Hōnaunau on Hawai‘i Island. Women used the gummy sap from ‘ama‘u shoots to glue their kapa (barkcloth) together, and other ferns to dye and scent their clothing. Ferns could even serve as weather forecasters, according to Hawaiian historian Mary Kawena Pukui. Her book of proverbs includes this storm warning: Huli ka lau o ka ‘ama‘u i uka, nui ka wai o kahawai. (When the leaves of the ‘ama‘u turn toward the upland, it is a sign of a flood.) In other words, when the wind blows inland, rain is on the way. University of Hawai‘i grad student Julie U‘ilani Au has spent years scouring the Hawaiian-language newspaper archive, which dates back more than a century and serves as a repository of indigenous wisdom. She says that fern lore can be found in old articles, advertisements, and traditional tales. “Certain mo‘olelo that were originally published in the newspapers, like Hi‘iakaikapoliopele, feature gods who had plant bodies or manifestations.” She cites the goddess Pā‘ūopala‘ā, who accompanies Pele’s sister Hi‘iaka on an epic journey to retrieve a wayward lover. Sometimes Pā‘ūopala‘ā is a human companion, other times she manifests as a magical skirt made of pala‘ā ferns—thus her name, pā‘ū (skirt) of pala‘ā. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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poses. They mashed hāpu‘u pith into remedies that relieved chest pains, revived appetites, and purified the blood. They combined ‘ēkaha ferns with other plants to treat sores, ‘ea (thrush), and pā‘ao‘ao (physical weakness). They used powdery moa spores as a purgative, and according to Kathy Valier, the author of Ferns of Hawaii, as talcum beneath loincloths. Modern cultural practitioners continue to incorporate ferns in medicine, lei, dyes, and spiritual offerings. Hula dancers keep their eyes open for patches of lacy palapalai fern, a Hawaiian member of the genus Bracken. It’s considered a kino lau (physical manifestation) of Laka, the hula goddess. Before harvesting the filigreed fern, dancers ask permission and perform sacred protocols. They decorate altars to Laka with the emerald-green fronds and braid them into lei po‘o (crowns) and lei kūpe‘e (wristlets), which they wear while dancing. Palapalai had another use, according to a 1922 publication by D. M. Ka‘aiakamanu and J. K. Akina. It was a cure for insanity. The authors did not relate any details regarding application or dosage— however, simply staring at this vibrant fern and inhaling its verdant perfume is bound to improve anyone’s mood.

BACK TO THE FUTURE Ke‘oni Baldwin is experimenting with a new kind of Hawaiian fern medicine—one that draws on both ancient wisdom and modern practices. His exploration began in childhood, when his grandmother, Kauikeonalani Kaipo, shared some of her knowledge of la‘au lapa‘au (plant medicine). “She taught me that botanicals were sentient beings,” he says, that ferns had the power to unlock human emotions. “She was born in Kaupō, which back then was considered

LEFT: FOREST & KIM STARR; RIGHT: MATT MCDONALD

Pala‘ā is a fractal-like burst of light green, with multiple lobes that shimmy in the breeze. Hawaiian ferns run the gamut from tiny, ephemeral species to magnificent trees with thirty-five-foot-tall canopies. The diminutive ‘ihi‘ihilauākea is a wee, clover-shaped fern that appears only after a drenching rain—and just in two places: Koko Head Crater on O‘ahu and Mokio Preserve on Moloka‘i. On the opposite end of the spectrum, towering hāpu‘u tree ferns grow throughout the archipelago, shading the forest floor with twelvefoot-long fronds. The base of these ferns and their tight-fisted fiddleheads are covered in silky golden fibers called pulu. In days past, Hawaiians used tufts of pulu to dress and embalm the dead. They stuffed it into mattresses and pillows, even exporting it to California in the mid-1800s for this purpose. Most ferns belong to the forest understory, contributing to the spongy, living carpet that so effectively captures rainwater and recharges underground aquifers. “Some ferns, such as hāpu‘u and uluhe, are keystone species,” says Kay Lynch, a horticulturist who encourages the use of Hawaiian ferns in restoration efforts. “They are essential to natural forest regeneration.” Some ferns inhabit the canopy; they grow aloft in the forks of trees. Bird’s nest ferns, or ‘ēkaha, are one such epiphytic species. Perched among branches, their pale-green fronds radiate from a dark, hairy center. Hawaiian weavers would pluck the black midribs from these hard-to-reach ferns, and use them to add contrast and color to their lauhala baskets, mats, and hats. Nineteenth-century historian Nathaniel Emerson wrote that the long, blade-shaped ‘ēkaha fronds were sometimes referred to as “Hoe o Maui,” or “Maui’s Paddle,” and draped as offerings on hula altars. Early Hawaiian healers often turned to ferns for medicinal pur-

HAWAIIAN SOUL

RIGHT (2): FOREST & KIM STARR; LEFT(2): NINA KUNA

Opposite, left to right: The pala‘ā has a place in legend, too: the goddess Pā‘ūopala‘ā could take the shape of a magic skirt of pala‘ā fronds. Tiny ‘ihi‘ihilauākea ferns appear—like magic—only after drenching rains. Above left: To create his hydrosols, Keoni ferments the ferns in a jar for forty days, then buries the jar in a running stream for twenty more. Right: His first fragrant body oil, Wild Fern, contains the essence of forty-one different ferns. Far right, top to bottom: The dots and dashes of spores on ‘ae and ‘ēkaha ferns are a Morse code of nature’s diversity.

a place of mysticism,” says Baldwin. “She said when the time is hemolele, perfect, this knowledge would make itself known.” For Baldwin, that perfect time is now. He felt called to learn more about ferns after the death of his grandmother. “Every day off I had, I would go by myself to ‘Īao Valley. Everything Tūtū [Grandmother] told me came flooding back.” At his home apothecary, he began distilling essential oils and hydrosols out of Hawaiian ferns. Ultimately, he launched a company called Pōhala, which means “to recover consciousness.” His first product was a distillation of forty-one different native and introduced ferns. Why so many? “I wanted every one to get recognized!” The result is a floral-scented oil with a wildly unique signature. He now handcrafts multiple

fern oils, hydrosols, tinctures, and teas, which he sells and uses in healing retreats and private consultations. Like other indigenous practitioners, Baldwin performs chants and rituals before collecting the plants. “I do everything with the Hawaiian moon phases,” he says. “I pick during the waning cycle, which is different than other plant medicine.” Indeed, he deals in esoteric medicine, not cures for the common cold or salves for wounds—unless they’re emotional wounds. Each fern addresses a different emotion, he says. For example, ‘ae, a swordlike fern found in Haleakalā, encourages empathy. The leafy ‘ākōlea elicits wonder and awe. “Palapalai holds codes to discipline,” says Baldwin. “It’s the glue that holds things together, so we remain on our path.” Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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ISLAND BUSINESS

Hawai‘i Farmers Union United’s Farm Apprentice Mentoring program connects budding and established farmers through farm visits and a mentorship program. FAM graduate Alexis Hand (left) plants beets with Evan Ryan at his Pono Grown Farm Center in Makawao. Hand began as an intern and is currently the garden manager.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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crops—and offers classroom instruction on everything from designing a farm layout and managing pests, to understanding food-safety laws and running a business. The program also sends students on farm visits with mentors, including Hōkūao Pellegrino of Noho‘ana Farm in Waikapū; Evan Ryan of Pono Grown Farm Center in Makawao, and Gerry Ross of Kupa‘a Farms in Kula. In addition, students (technically called “apprentices”) have the option of working directly with a farmer during what’s known as the immersion phase. “It takes a village to grow a farmer,” says Robinson, who adds that the program is offered free to participants because of ongoing support from the County of Maui, Kamehameha Schools, Atherton Family Foundation and Savitt Family Foundation, among others. Classes are held in partnership with the Sustainable Living Institute of Maui, and FAM graduates receive a certificate of professional development from University of Hawai‘i Maui College. Not long ago, Brad and I graduated from the FAM program. We now understand that the towering Guinea grass that once plagued us can be an asset in creating compost, that building an irrigation system is easier said than done, and that relatively inexpensive hoop houses and other tools can help alleviate the cost of farming. And, as its acronym suggests, FAM program graduates reap more than an education—they join a family of farmers working to reverse decades of deepening dependence on imports. One of those farmers is Gerry Ross, who runs Kupa‘a Farms in Kula with his wife, Janet Simpson. In 2003, the pair moved from Canada to Maui to start a farm on land they inherited from Simpson’s parents. At the time, their growing experience was limited to a home garden. “We did a lot of things on our farm that some people would call mistakes,” Ross says of those early years, explaining that he and Simpson learned from each setback. “It would have been fantastic if the FAM program was available when we started out, because starting farmers get the opportunity to learn from what other people are already doing.”

LEHIA APANA

“Maybe we should turn back,” I said to my husband, Brad, my tone more command than suggestion. We were lost, and the late-afternoon sun was dimming by the minute. An hour earlier, on a whim, and with a rusty machete in hand, we decided to go bushwhacking to see what we might find. And now, engulfed by eight-foot-tall Guinea grass—whose prickly leaf blades are nature’s equivalent of fiberglass—I was itchy, weary, and ready to head home. Well, technically, we were home. Earlier that week we had collected the keys to our new house and future farm. This land on Maui’s north shore would be our agricultural canvas. Just one problem: We weren’t farmers. Sure, we knew our way around the nursery section and had amassed a collection of seeds that bordered on hoarding, but we weren’t ready to make the leap from garden beds to farm plots. Turns out, we weren’t alone. “We have a new generation in Hawai‘i willing to do the hard work of farming, and it benefits all of us to ensure they succeed,” says Phyllis Robinson, a former board member of Hawai‘i Farmers Union United’s (HFUU) Haleakalā Chapter and current director of HFUU’s Farm Apprentice Mentoring (FAM) program. She points to somber statistics, including the fact that Hawai‘i imports roughly 90 percent of its food; if cargo ships stopped coming due to a natural disaster or other crisis, our food supply would last maybe a week. At last count, in 2012, the U.S. Department of Agriculture reported the average age of Hawai‘i’s farmers is sixty—a figure that has been rising for the last three decades. During an HFUU meeting in 2014, Robinson and fellow board members sparked an idea to address what they saw as an impending agricultural crisis. “We were looking around the room and noticing all these enthusiastic young people who were interested in farming, and we realized that there were also a lot of older people in the room who were looking very tired,” she laughs. “We thought we could tap older farmers who are ready to take it easy, and see if we could create a program for this new generation.” The goal of FAM is simple: cultivate more farmers. The intensive six-month program focuses on regenerative growing practices—improving soil health to grow more nutritious and resilient

Left: A single restaurant can produce thousands of pounds of food waste each year. Gerry Ross of Kupa‘a Farms in Kula works with his restaurant clients to collect that excess, which he then transforms into compost—a hyperfertile mixture of decomposed organic matter used to enrich his soil. Here he shows FAM participants his system for composting food scraps. Right: Through a process called vermicomposting, Ross uses earthworms to help break down organic matter to create a valuable fertilizer that he uses on his crops.

BAILEY ROBERTS

ISLAND BUSINESS

Clockwise from top left: Rainbow trout require a constant supply of fresh, circulating water. Here, fingerling rainbow trout swim in Kulahaven Farms’ hatchery. • Raising fish in an aquaponic system produces nutrient-rich water, which is an ideal organic food source for plants grown in a soilless environment. Longtime farmer John Dobovan and FAM graduate Max Powell stand amid beds of watercress, the crop of choice at their Kulahaven Farms • The pair is pictured in the shade structure that houses the farm’s six fish tanks. Each tank is fifteen feet in diameter and holds 4,500 gallons of water • Kulahaven Farms has fourteen watercress grow beds that produce about 3,500 pounds of organic watercress each month. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

The FAM program focuses on regenerative farming, an approach to agriculture that focuses on improving and revitalizing soil health. This freshly prepared soil was first planted with a cover crop—a plant that is grown primarily for the benefit of the soil rather than yield—to add large amounts of organic matter and fertility. Left: Evan Ryan and Alexis Hand oversee Pono Grown Farm Center’s plant nursery, which provides most of the trees, shrubs and vegetables for the farm.

Today, their four-acre organic farm is a thriving ecosystem that produces award-winning coffee and a broad range of crops destined for private chefs and farm-to-table restaurants, including The Mill House. They also sell directly to the public at the Wednesday farmers market in Kula, and via a monthly subscription program. A self-described “soil farmer,” Ross focuses on building a soil ecosystem of critters and microbes that interact with plants to promote naturally healthy growth. He shares his techniques with FAM program apprentices both in the classroom and on his farm. “You can do all kinds of classroom work, but getting out there and getting it under your fingernails makes all the difference,” he says. FAM program graduate Max Powell is proof of that. When he landed on Maui three years ago, he knew exactly what he would do. “I was going to become a realtor,” says the twenty-four-year-old, who had previously traveled the globe while working in the music industry. He nods his head and lifts his eyebrows as if to say, “Imagine that.” But then he met John Dobovan through a mutual friend, and everything changed. In 2013, Dobovan had moved to Maui with a plan of his own. “I came here to start an aquaponics movement,” says the seventy-oneyear-old, who in 2012 cofounded an aquaponics farm on O‘ahu. He helped launch the FAM program, and currently serves as HFUU Haleakalā Chapter president. In 2016, he got to work clearing a wall of brush and trees to make room for his future farm. “I started doing the work on my own and I was like, ‘This is ridicu-

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lous, I need help,’” recalls Dobovan. I went through about five guys; none of them lasted more than two hours, before Max showed up. At the end of that first day with Max, I’m dragging my chainsaw up the hill with my tongue hanging out and he’s skipping. I thought yeah, I’ve found the right guy.” A few months later, John suggested Max join the FAM program, which was in its second year. Powell admits that he didn’t know what aquaponics was and didn’t know how to use a power tool before working with Dobovan. Thanks to FAM classes and Dobovan’s mentoring, Powell says he’s now confident in his skills. “FAM is a crash course in farming,” says Powell. “Through the program I learned the vocabulary of farming, and with that vocabulary I could really become fluent.” Today, the pair are co-owners of Kulahaven Farm and are producing rainbow trout and watercress through an aquaponics system that uses fish waste to fertilize crops grown in raised beds. Each month, the half-acre farm produces 2,000 pounds of fish and 3,500 pounds of watercress, which it sells to Mama’s Fish House and directly to consumers via a monthly subscription program. “I’m convinced that the only way we’re going to be sustainable is to farm smarter, and for me, aquaponics is one of those technologies,” says Dobovan, who adds that, “When I was Max’s age, if you were considered too stupid for an office job, you’d be a farmer. I’m sorry, but it’s just the opposite. We need the best and brightest as farmers, and the FAM program is attracting exactly that.”

READY TO CULTIVATE YOUR OWN FARMING SKILLS? The next FAM program begins with an introductory event called “Am I Ready to be a Farmer?” on Thursday, October 4, 2018. The program begins in December, with online applications available in early November. To get on the event-alert mailing list, contact Phyllis Robinson at pfierrorob@aol.com.

ISLAND BUSINESS

Diversity is key at Pono Grown Farm Center, where a mix of plants with varying scents and colors attracts beneficial insects and deter pests.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

An environmental entrepreneur goes upscale while downsizing. STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD

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AT HOME

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

AT HOME

Graham Hill’s 1,000-square-foot Ha‘ikū home has four bedrooms, two-and-ahalf bathrooms, and enough space to entertain more than twenty guests. On paper, that description might arouse some skepticism—it’s a lot to pack into 1,000 square feet—but in person, the layout makes perfect sense. Graham knows a thing or two about making the most of minimal space. He is the founder and CEO of LifeEdited, a consulting firm that helps homeowners, architects and developers design compact homes and apartments (some as small as 175 square feet). “It’s the way I think,” he explains. “I’m not the kind of guy who would do a big house.” He walks the walk and talks the talk. Literally. In a 2011 TED Talk titled “Less Stuff, More Happiness,” Graham (already on the map for launching the wildly popular eco-blog Treehugger.com in 2004) extolled the virtues of pareddown living. Twenty years ago, he and a

At the home’s front entrance, guests can rinse off their sandy toes under the outdoor foot shower and hang their salty gear on Resource Furniture’s wooden coat rack.

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What could be better than taking a bubble bath outside? This sleek Kohler tub cozily occupies an outdoor nook on one side of the home. Sliding glass doors lead to the interior, and crisp white curtains can encirle the tub to provide privacy when desired.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

business partner sold their Internet start-up, and Graham used the windfall to purchase a four-story, 3,600-square-foot home in one of Seattle’s trendiest neighborhoods. He soon realized that a supersized house required an inordinate amount of stuff—and upkeep, too. “My life became unnecessarily complicated,” he says. The novelty wore off quickly; Graham sold the home and most of his belongings, packed what remained into a few bags, and set off to travel the world. In 2010, he debuted “LifeEdited1,” a 420-square-foot apartment in New York City that functioned more like 1,000 square feet, thanks to a flexible layout with moveable interior walls and convertible furniture. Later that year, he moved into “LifeEdited2,” a 350-square-foot apartment in the same building. An avid surfer, kiteboarder, and stand-up paddler, Graham would routinely fly from New York to Maui, and would stay with his cousin Chelsea Hill at her home in Ha‘ikū. “I always came in the dead of winter—for obvious reasons,” he laughs. He’d stay in a 200-square-foot cabin—which had neither a kitchen nor a bathroom—on Chelsea’s property. In 2011, his cousin offered to sell him the two-acre vacant parcel behind her home, and he pounced on the opportunity. “I told myself I’d do something with it at some point,” Graham says. That point came in 2016, when he hooked up with architect and engineer David Sellers. They had met years before in New York, but lost touch when David moved to Europe to

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Above: The outdoor sofas have reconfigurable backrests and can morph from sofa to chaise to tête-à-tête seating, or even a freestanding bed. The transforming coffee tables lift and extend into a dining table. Below: In one of the bedrooms, a queen-size bed folds into the wall to reveal a dining table that can seat up to five people.

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AT HOME

attend graduate school. Neither knew the other was on Maui until one of Graham’s associates spotted David’s updated profile on LinkedIn. (Remarkably, David was living less than a mile from Graham’s property.) The two met for lunch one day and Graham shared his plans for LifeEdited’s first project in Hawai‘i. He wanted to build an off-the-grid family home—one that would harvest more energy and water than it consumed—on his Ha‘ikū property. David signed on as the architect and engineer; Graham also tasked him with designing the home’s water, wastewater and energy systems. Right off the bat, the project presented a strategic challenge. A single dirt driveway was the only way to access the small construction site at the summit of the steeply sloping property. To prevent a congested work area,

David imposed a strict timeline for the delivery and use of materials and equipment. And given the difficult terrain, many components were fabricated off-site. All of the construction equipment operated on 100 percent biodiesel, including a pile driver that pummeled steel columns as much as nine feet into the ground. David and Graham opted to forgo a standard masonry wall in favor of galvanized steel— a more durable material, and one whose scraps could be more easily recycled. (In fact, the only concrete on the property is the garage floor slab and the driveway). Once the home’s skeleton was complete, David handed the project off to general contractor Massimo Pandolfi to finish the structure. Completed in 2017, the fully off-grid residence has more than its share of conversation-worthy features. The roof’s near-invisible, ultra-thin, ten-

Clockwise from top left: Resource Furniture offers flexibility that can transform a living room into sleeping quarters. Hidden bunk beds fold out for sleeping, tucking the sofa out of sight underneath.

TOP RIGHT AND INSET: SHAWN HANNAH

Below, left to right: Graham says his Ha‘ikū home gives him plenty of space to live, work, play—and store his surfboards and Magnum electric bikes. In the master bathroom, a luxurious soaking tub sits beneath windows that frame verdant views.

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AT HOME

Top: The 1,330-square-foot ground-floor garage houses the 1973 Volkswagen Thing that architect/engineer David Sellers converted into an electric vehicle using old Tesla batteries.

kilowatt solar system powers the home. Custom rain chains direct rainwater from the gutters to a catch basin below, then down to a 15,000-gallon tank on the property. In each bathroom, composting toilets require no water (just some helpful instructions for amateurs). There’s no air conditioning, but when the prevailing trade winds stop, sleek ceiling fans pick up the slack. In the 1,330-square-foot garage,

a maintenance-free battery system captures excess energy from the rooftop solar panels and stores it for use at night; the system has forty-eight kilowatt hours of off-grid storage. Graham wanted the home to have the lowest possible carbon footprint, so there is no generator on the property (and with that much energy storage in the garage, it’s unlikely he’ll ever need one).

TOP: SHAWN HANNAH

Counterclockwise from left: Rain chains direct water to the 15,000-gallon Acer tank below the home; the Sunflare solar panels were manufactured in custom sizes to match the contours of the roof; Blue Planet Energy’s Blue Ion 2.0 battery system powers the home.

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AT HOME

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1350 NAALAE RD, KULA / MLS 378577 3 Bed / 3 Bath 2 acres / Bi-coastal views / 864 sf workshop Custom kitchen with monkeypod cabinets

Above: So many possibilities! Bento Build’s wall-mounted lattice system gives Graham the option of reconfiguring the modular kitchen cabinets and drawers. Opposite: The Separett composting toilet requires no water or sewage treatment.

Indoors, Graham outfitted three bedrooms with convertible furniture that creates the functionality of a much larger space. Murphy beds occupy two of the rooms; one folds up to reveal an integrated desk, the other a dining table. In the third bedroom, bunk beds fold separately into the wall; when pulled down, the bottom bunk doubles as a sofa. There’s shapeshifting furniture on the 330-square-foot covered lānai, too, including reconfigurable outdoor sofas with adjustable backrests, and a coffee table that lifts and extends into a dining table. The multifunctional theme extends to the kitchen, where moveable cabinets, shelves, and drawers snap into a lattice system attached to the wall. Then there’s the Thing in the garage. One afternoon, while the home was still under construction, David and Graham were driving along Hāna Highway when a bright yellow Volkswagen Thing zipped past them. “I said, ‘Now there’s the perfect car for an electric conversion,’” David recalls. Graham was instantly intrigued—even more so when he learned that David could do the conversion himself. David logged on to Craigslist that evening and serendipitously found a 1973 Thing for sale on Maui. He forwarded

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the listing to Graham, who bought the car a few days later. Today, the home’s battery system charges the fully electric Thing, which also has its own backup energy storage. Graham hopes his Ha‘ikū home will not only serve as a model for off-grid living, but also demonstrate the upside of downsizing and having fewer material possessions. After all, he says, “The best stuff in life isn’t stuff at all.” WEB EXCLUSIVE: Watch a multitasking New York apartment transform before your eyes at MauiMagazine.net/smart-home. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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Outdoor Living

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Kohler (bathroom fixtures) 800-456-4537 • Kohler.com Maui distributors: Ferguson Bath & Kitchen, Home Depot, Lowe’s Home Improvement, Premier Bath & Kitchen LifeEdited (home design) 206-734-4867 • Ross@LifeEdited.com LifeEdited.com The Modern Fan Company 888-588-3267 • ModernFan.com O‘ahu distributors: The Fan Shop, Lighting Concepts, Lighting Elegance Plumen (lighting) 105 Sumner St., London, SE1 9HZ, England Info@Plumen.com • Plumen.com Online orders can be shipped to Hawai‘i. Resource Furniture (transforming furniture) Info@ResourceFurniture.com ResourceFurniture.com Rich Brilliant Willing (lighting) 50 Greene Street, New York, NY 212-388-1621 • RichBrilliantWilling.com Online orders can be shipped to Hawai‘i. Sunflare (solar panels) 1693 Yeager Avenue, La Verne, CA SunflareSolar.com Available through Hawaii Off-Grid (See previous listing.)

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HELLO, THERE Spread a little aloha anywhere in your home. Soha Living’s sign is made of natural birch and is a welcome addition to bookshelves, end tables . . . even on top of the fridge. 14”x4½”, $28.80; 24”x5½”, $36.80 at Soha Living, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 868-3430, SohaLiving.com

RIGHT ON THE NOSE Carthusia’s 100-milliliter Via Camerelle diffuser fills your home with the fresh scents of lemon and bitter orange, combined with hints of sea moss and cedar wood. $48 at LELE by Adelina a Mare, 20 Baldwin Ave. Pā‘ia, 793-2569, Rachel@AdelinaAMare.com

SCOOP ‘EM UP Kenyan artisans hand-carved these heart-shaped serving spoons from wild African olive wood—giving a whole new meaning to “made with love.” $22.95 each at Home Remedies, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. 7, Kīhei, 214-6559, CreativeHomeRemedies.com

1, 2, 4, 7, 8: MARLUY ANDRADE; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

STRIPS IN THE BATHROOM Bamboo strips set in clean white resin give Pigeon & Poodle’s Ashford bathroom accessories a crisp, graphic look. Brush holder $115, canister $149, soap dish $115 at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 8736910, MauiHue.com

X MARKS THE SPOT Handcrafted from Baltic birch, this threedimensional, bathymetric wall map by Tahoe Wood Maps displays Hawai‘i’s ocean channels, plus beaches, forests, landmarks, and more. $495 at The Man Cave, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. 18, Kīhei, 7932526, ManCaveMaui.com

TRAY CHIC Perfect for entertaining or day-to-day living, this folding coffee table has a riveted metal frame with a removable wood-top tray. $255 at The Mind’s Eye Interiors, 1068 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 667-7748, MindsEyeInterior.com

TEAKS FOR ITSELF Made in Bali, this handcrafted teak bowl holds its own as a decorative accent piece, or a conversation-worthy serving dish. $180 at Beach House, 330 Ohukai Rd., Ste. 110, Kīhei, 891-2010, BeachHouseDesign Maui.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

ADVERTORIAL

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Manakai Swimwear is one of Hawai‘i’s No. 1 sustainable and ethical swimwear boutiques. We can take one ton of recycled Nylon 6 fishing nets and turn them into 9,000 of the most enticing swimwear garments on the planet. Visit our new boutique today. 888 Front Street, Suite 3, Lahaina | ManakaiSwimwear.com | Facebook and Instagram: @ManakaiSwimwear | 808-281-0944

ALIGN WITH WELLNESS AT DISCOVER KATALYST “I’m motivated and inspired to help people launch into the most amazing version of themselves.” Discover Katalyst sessions have applications for shifting and unwinding source issues within the emotional and physical body to the point of being a completely transformative experience. Open daily, South Maui, Kīhei | DiscoverKatalyst.com | Instagram: @DiscoverKatalyst | 808-250-2767

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KACHI JEWELRY

THE MIND’S EYE INTERIORS

Beautiful locally handcrafted jewelry from one of Maui’s own, Cathy U‘u of Kachi Jewelry. Cathy creates fun, beachy, everyday jewelry. Each unique piece is handmade in Pā‘ia and sold at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea’s Art Program every Monday. KachiInc. com | Instagram: @Kachi_Inc | Kachi Jewelry@gmail.com | 808-281-0454

This beautiful credenza is a new arrival to the Mind’s Eye Interiors showroom. Handcrafted in India, this solid mango wood cabinet has internal shelves and three panel doors with carved medallion fronts. The intricate designs are washed with white accents. 69”x35”x18”. $1,995.00 at Mind’s Eye Interiors, 1068 Limahana Place, Lahaina | MindsEyeInterior.com | 808-667-7748

STUDIO 22K Sherri Dhyan and the goldsmiths at Studio22k are dedicated to the traditions and style of high-karat gold jewelry inspired by ancient Mesopotamian cultures. Our goldsmitahs skillfully recreate techniques of these civilizations, such as granulation, filigree, repoussé/chasing and hand forging. 161B Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia | 808-579-8167 | Studio22k.com

HANGLOOSE HAMMOCKS HAWAII Established in 2007, this globally responsible company works directly with family artisans from five different countries, providing fair-trade employment to hundreds of economically disadvantaged superstars. Visit Hawai‘i’s largest hammock in Ha‘ikū, or the biggest little hammock shop in Lahaina. 810 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū | 658 Front Street, Lahaina | Facebook/ Instagram: @HangLooseHammocksHawaii.com | 808-224-5764

THE FACE PLACE SKINCARE CLINIC At The Face Place, we are changing people’s lives—one face at a time. We offer exclusive corrective and nurturing facial services customized for each individual to provide optimal results. The clinic is located in a private location in Wailea Town Center. 161 Wailea Ike Place, B-103, Wailea | MauiFacePlace.com | Info@MauiFacePlace.com | 808-875-1000

SWAP MEET AT PAIA BAY Don’t miss the Swap Meet at Paia Bay in the heart of Pā‘ia Town! Part flea market, part craft fair, we feature local gifts, handcrafted jewelry and ‘ono treats at great prices. Check out daily food specials online, including vegetarian ramen and homemade ice cream. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., 137 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia | SwapMeetAtPaiaBay.com | Instagram: @ SwapMeetAtPaiaBay

FOREVER H AND A MAUI Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these adorable Hawaiian dresses and accessories for 18-inch American Girl dolls, along with matching dresses and accessories for girls of all ages. Find them at Forever H and A Maui, 658 Front Street, Lahaina, or the Maui Swap Meet on Saturdays | ForeverHAndAMaui.com | Facebook and Instagram: @ForeverHAndAMaui | 808-661-1760, 808-276-0960 or 808-276-3838

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

GARDENING

A Garden Indoors BY SAVY JANSSEN

Aside from the obvious aesthetics, is there a benefit to having plants in your home? Yes. Plants not only beautify a space, they may actually improve air quality, because plants produce oxygen. Indoor plants also improve your mood, and help you relax. I get a lot of happiness from my houseplants. What types of plants are best suited for indoors? Look for slow growers that can stay in their pots for a while. If

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you’re new to indoor landscaping, or doubt your green thumb, I recommend plants that can tolerate neglect—philodendrons, kentia palms, and fichus are good options. What tips do you have for maintaining indoor plants? Imitate nature. Give a plant the light it needs; some need more than others, but any plant is going to appreciate sunlight. Don’t close all the windows or blast the air conditioning. Natural light and air are always better. Deep water your houseplants. Put them outside periodically and soak them. (I take mine outside once every two weeks.) This will give them more sunshine, help to keep off insects, and prevent mold. Above: A kentia palm in a large, jade-green pot extends a bold greeting in the spacious entryway. The variegated philodendron perched atop the wardrobe reaches down toward the bromeliad below. Plants, pots and cabinet in similar hues unify the decor, while the bromeliad’s yellow bud plays off the mustard walls.

RANDY JAY MILLER

There are lots of good reasons to add plants to your décor—and more than one reason you might hesitate to do so, from not knowing which greenery will thrive where you live, to not having the time or inclination to maintain them. Sheila McLaughlin is a Maui landscaper and the owner of Na Pua, which specializes in providing and caring for indoor plants. We asked her advice on how to create your personal piece of paradise (ocean breeze not included).

RYAN SIPHERS

In a hallway that doubles as art gallery, a large round pot sits in its wooden stand, counterbalancing in weight and tone a lava-rock sculpture by Maui artist Hoaka Delos Reyes. Anthurium and bromeliad cluster under the large leaves of a purple Cordyline fruticosa (ti). Farther back, a cylindrical planter sits below a whale sculpture by Randy Puckett, the bromeliads’ greenery a rich contrast to the red accent wall. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

GARDENING

Rotate your plants. Cycle them in and out of the house. This will give you variety, and keep your plants healthy. Keep a plant in its culture pot—the one it came in—and place that pot inside a decorative one. Be sure to remove for watering; most decorative pots don’t have good drainage. Another advantage to the culture pot is that if the plant fails, it’s easier to remove. What common mistakes do people make with indoor plants? Overwatering. Plants show the same symptom from overwatering as from underwatering: wilting. Feel the soil first; if it’s wet, don’t water. Also, make sure the water is draining—you don’t want to drown the plant. Forgetting to feed plants. Just like people, plants need water and food! When you pour water through a pot, you leach out important nutrients from the soil. You can get plant food at any hardware or gardening store. Finally, people don’t give their indoor plants enough attention. Plants are talking to you; listen to what they need and make changes. Indoor plants will thrive when they get a little love. Any recommendations for making a statement on a small budget? Orchids are good. A group will make a statement, but orchids can also shine individually. They do well in Hawai‘i, but will add a tropical touch anywhere. They also pair nicely with ferns. Neither needs a lot of water, and both are low maintenance. Palms are striking indoors. They are generally more expensive, but you only need one to change the whole aesthetic of a room—perfect for minimal effort and maximum effect. Invest in decorative pots. You can change a pot and change the whole look of a room. This is an easy way to spruce up indoor plants you may already have. For more information, contact Sheila McLaughlin at 283-5866.

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INDOOR PLANT GUIDE

VIP Service

Success begins with choosing the right plants for your conditions.

with

Aloha Serving Maui and Oahu LOW LIGHT some dracaenas (left), maidenhair fern (right)

Gina Duncan

REALTOR® RB-21124 R, PB, ABR, CIPS, CRS, e-Pro, GRI, RSPS, SFR, AHWD, BPOR Direct: 808.250.9858 MauiGina@gmail.com 275 W Kaahumanu Ave #2CA1 Kahului, HI 96732 FineIslandProperties.com

SUNNY SPOTS ferns, some ficus (left), spathiphyllum (peace lily, right), succulents

President 2019

President Aloha Chapter 2015-2017

PERFECT PALMS kentia (left), raphis (right)

FOR THE NOT-SO-GREEN-THUMBED philodendron, succulents

FOREST & KIM STARR

Maui’s premier Design-Build firm

OVERALL WINNERS some aglaonemas (left), anthurium (right), bromeliads, some calatheas, schefflera

One of 2018’s Best Custom Home Builders in Hawaii Best Custom Home Builder on Maui by Home Builders Digest & Custom Home Magazine www.adcmaui.com

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2145 Wells Street, Suite 301, Wailuku, Maui Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

GARDENING

IT’S ALIVE!

A collage of succulents becomes wall art.

Lush room dividers can be stationary . . .

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Here’s a trendy way to bring the outdoors in: let Green Wall Designs Maui turn a wall into a living work of art—as small as a painting or as large as a mural. A self-watering base makes this “living wall” low maintenance (though you’ll need to prune now and then). And if you love fresh herbs, a Green Wall lets you pick them right inside your home. 866-7172 | GreenWallDesigns.com | Info@GreenWallDesigns.com

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REAL ESTATE

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REAL ESTATE TRENDS

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B E S T.

Appreciating property: The owner of these 92 acres in North Kohala offered them for purchase by Hawai‘i County after learning the property’s historical and cultural importance.

DECISION. EVER.

Value Judgements

When it comes to your dream home – making

BY TEYA PENNIMAN

sure it is perfect means tons What is the “highest and best use” of a property? One real-estate company has embraced an expanded answer to that question: it may include protection of environmental, historic and cultural uses— issues more typically the purview of land trusts and conservation groups. Hawai‘i Life is becoming a local leader in educating buyers and sellers about values beyond the ones connected to dollar signs. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi spoke with Beth Thoma Robinson, Hawai‘i Life’s director of conservation lands, to learn more about this new approach and what it means for buyers and sellers in the local market.

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Would you explain Hawai‘i Life’s conservation initiative, and why a realestate company would pursue it? Some of us have been involved in sales where the property ends up going to a public purpose. One seller whose property we were marketing in the traditional way said he had spoken with the Trust for Public

Land, and asked me, “Should we have that conversation?” I realized I couldn’t think of a better use for that property. We worked with the community to raise the funds and donated our commission, which counted toward the seller’s contribution. At closing, the title was turned over to a local nonprofit. That’s how I got involved with conservation uses. Then our CEO, Matt Beall, became chair of the Hawai‘i Island Land Trust (HILT) board. Sarah Bakewell, our director of corporate affairs, also joined the HILT board. What we’re doing is not unique to Hawai‘i Life, but the company has become known for its interest and expertise in conservation and legacy lands. What kinds of properties would qualify as conservation or legacy lands? Lands that clearly should never be developed because of their scenic beauty, wildlife habitat, or cultural or environmental sensitivity. For example, in the 1960s, Laurance Rockefeller donated land containing iconic

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

DESIGN MAUI

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MAUI ARCHITECTURAL GROUP

Most homes have at least one awkward space. In this lovely Pineapple Hill home, it was a pass-through into the master bedroom. HUE’s designers leaned an oversized mirror against the wall to give the space dramatic design sense; grasscloth wall coverings and cozy reading chairs add warmth. Inquire about HUE's interior design services: 210 Alamaha St., Kahului | MauiHue.com | 808-873-6910

Maui Architectural Group’s award-winning team of Hawai‘i architects provides home and commercial design services, permitting assistance, and construction oversight. We have decades of experience providing sustainable design solutions to meet any budget, and will work closely with you to ensure a successful project. 2331 W. Main St., Wailuku | MauiArch.com | Peter@MauiArch.com | 808-244-9011

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REAL ESTATE TRENDS

To INSTANTLY get a list of Open Houses on Maui,

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As director of Hawai‘i Life’s Conservation and Legacy Lands initiative, realtor Beth Thoma Robinson is helping buyers and sellers reevaluate the meaning of “highest and best use.”

ETHAN TWEEDIE PHOTOGRAPHY

‘Ōhe‘o Gulch to Haleakalā National Park. Lands may be purchased by a conservation buyer such as a government entity or land trust, or the owner may obtain a conservation easement that limits future development. A legacy property may have a cultural history; the buyer takes on the kuleana [responsibility] for protecting the site beyond their personal use. There’s a current listing in North Kohala: a ninetytwo-acre property that has exceptional recreational, environmental, and scenic values, as well as identified archeological sites. It includes the canoe ramp built by Kamehameha I and a large heiau [temple] where he is said to have trained his warriors. After I explained the significance of the site to the seller, they agreed to pursue a public purchase. The appraisal they ordered deemed the highest and best use to be preservation—a first in my experience. What would you tell potential buyers and sellers who are interested in learning more? If you are looking to buy property that has conservation values, or you want to be part of protecting these lands and their culture, educate yourself about the history and talk to people in the community. Your development has less value if you lose the cultural value, the sense of place. If you’re selling a property that has conservation or legacy values, we are happy to consult and connect you with the right resources. Normally, a seller wants the widest possible exposure, but if there is a

mandate from the seller for how the property is to be used, we will educate agents and prospective buyers to find the right person for that purchase. What makes this initiative unique? What we’re doing in connecting this type of buyer and seller is not unique to Hawai‘i Life. But no other real-estate company in the state has taken the initiative to this level. We’re developing a list of properties with significant conservation values and posting them on our website, along with information about different conservation pathways. We’re happy to collaborate and share what we know with other agents, and we’re working to develop best practices in this area. Hawai‘i Life also sponsors a realestate conference every year. A few years ago, we started talking more about our sense of place, including Hawaiian values and aloha, and these have become our most popular presentations. What does this kuleana mean for you, personally? It means that I have to be a very good listener and involve my peers. We are sensitive to being a place-specific real-estate company within a state that has a set of cultural values. Those values include relationships between people, between people and the land, and even with those who have passed on. It’s both intimidating and humbling to be leading this statewide effort, but we believe that without these special places, without the ‘āina, there is no Hawai‘i Life.

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40 Hale Pili Way • 4br/4.5ba • 5,239 sf • 2 acres

Coconut Grove 16 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,638 sf ** Coconut Grove 22 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,625 sf ** Kapalua Bay Villas 14G3-5 • 2br/3ba • 1,697 sf + Kapalua Bay Villas 19G5 • 1br/1.5ba • 1,206 sf * Kapalua Bay Villas 28G2 • 1br/2ba • 1,093 sf ** Kapalua Bay Villas 30B3,4 • 2br/3ba • 1,697 sf +

Montage at Kapalua Bay 4402 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,174 sf

UPCOUNTRY COMMERCIAL LOTS Kulamalu Commercial Lots 7-A-1 and 7-A-2**

KAANAPALI COFFEE FARMS 2255 Aina Mahiai St • 4br/4ba • 3,400 sf • 4.74 acres + 2132 Aina Mahiai St • 4br/4ba • 3,400 sf • 4.58 acres 2575 Aina Mahiai Pl • 4.95 acres **

KAPALUA RESORT FRACTIONAL Montage at Kapalua Bay 4402 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,174 sf

KAPALUA RESORT RESIDENTIAL 214 Crestview Road • 3br/3.5ba • 2,310 sf • 0.27 acres 342 Cook Pine Drive • 3br/4.5ba • 4,549 sf • 0.8 acres** 105 Keoawa Place • 4br/4ba • 3,540 sf • 3.42 acres**

COURTNEY M BROWN RS-56519 Realtor®(S), Vice President , ePRO CB@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com

Kapalua Bay Villas 38B2 • 2br/3ba • 1,447 sf Kapalua Golf Villas 11T3,4 • 1br/2ba • 972 sf Kapalua Golf Villas 20T5,6 • 1br/2ba • 972 sf * Kapalua Golf Villas 26T8 • 1br/1.5ba • 987 sf Kapalua Ironwoods 73 • 2br/3ba • 2156 sf * Kapalua Ridge Villas 311 • 1br/2ba • 1,162 sfˇ Kapalua Ridge Villas 1513-15 • 2br/3ba • 1,778 sf Montage Residences 1204 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,789 sf ** Ritz Carlton Res. 1717-19 • 2br/2ba • 1,323 sf **

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KAPALUA RESORT LAND 230 Crestview Road • 0.45 acres

NAPILI & KAHANA CONDOMINIUMS Alaeloa 19 • 2br/2ba • 1,728 sf • Leasehold ** Alaeloa 40 • 2br/2ba • 1,352 sf • Leasehold *

KAANAPALI RESORT CONDOMINIUMS Kaanapali Alii 4-1002 • 1br/2 ba • 1,441 sf * Kaanapali Alii 2-105 • 2br/2 ba • 1,647 sf **

LAUNIUPOKO LAND 0 Haniu Place • 15.23 acres * Recently Sold Represented Seller *, Represented Buyer ** Recently Sold Represented Seller & Buyer + In Escrow ˇ

ROB SHELTON RB-21133 Realtor®(B), Vice President, BIC Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com

808.250.0210

808.281.4024 If your property is listed with a real estate broker, please disregard. It is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real estate Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated. brokers. We are happy to work with them and cooperate fully.

LIVE OCEANFRONT This spectacular Oceanfront Property, steeped in history, is a jewel to behold! Owners are afforded unparalleled privacy and stunning views of Lanai and Kahoolawe, as well as a lifetime of incredible sunsets. This private, 2 acre beachfront lot, builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus orchard, maturing mango trees as well as coconut trees and attractive monkeypod trees. A private, dual water system provides ample water for both domestic and agricultural uses. Access to a nearby launching site for canoes, kayaks and paddle boards ensures the owners will have ample opportunities to enjoy this unique and special beachfront property. Offered at $5,400,000 MLS #:378468

Wendy R Peterson

Jamie Woodburn

Realtor® (S) • HI License RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com (808) 870.4114

Realtor® (S) • HI License RS-63712 JamieWoodburn1@gmail.com (808) 870.5671

EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

LIVE MAUI

HOKULANI GOLF VILLAS Kihei | 4B/2.5B | $1,530,0000 | MLS #: 377753

SPECTACULAR MAUI RANCH LAND Kula | 464 Acres | $8,250,000 | MLS#: 369241

BEAUTIFUL KULA HOME ON 6 ACRES Kula | 3B/2.5B | $1,998,000 | MLS#: 371501

UPCOUNTRY OMA’OPIO RIDGE - 3 LOTS Kula | 5.32 - 5.77 Acre Lots | $650,000 - $900,000 MLS#: 373075, 373076, 373077

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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE, GLOBAL CONNECTION, SHARING ALOHA

Wendy R Peterson Realtor® (S) • HI License RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com (808) 870.4114 The Voice of Luxury Real Estate

EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lū‘au.” F r o m m e r ’s M a u i

H awa i i M a g a z i n e

“This is the best lū‘au on Maui. I rate it the best in the state.” Featured in:

Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s

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Voted “Best Lū‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey

“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection” For Reser ved Seats Call

(808)667- 0700 To l l f r e e

(800)248-5828 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, Lāhaina Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town

Above: What courses are you taking? At the pop-up Chef’s Table, it might be crispy-seared salmon with sauce gribiche and pan-roasted root vegetables on pink lentils. Opposite: Jethro Anton displays a perfect finish—desserts mastered in the college’s culinary-arts program. In June, Jethro graduated from UHMC into a job at award-winning Mill House Restaurant.

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BECKY SPEERE

A Study in

First-Class DininG

Dining

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

MARTIN WYAND

We would tell you without reservation that it’s one of Maui’s best-kept secrets . . . but without a reservation, you may not get in.

The culinary student returning my call apologizes, “Sorry, we’re booked on that day . . . but we do have an opening on. . . .” Leis Family Class Act Restaurant can fill its reservation book faster than you can fry a malasada. It serves one of Maui’s most ambitious menus, a four-course luncheon directed by a highly respected Maui chef. And it’s open only during fall and spring semesters at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College campus. Which makes sense: These meals are prepared by UHMC’s culinary students under the guidance of chef/instructor Tom Lelli. Akin to getting a table at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in Napa, planning is key. It’s my last chance to dine here before the end of the spring semester, and apparently I’m not the only one in search of good food. When I enter, I see Marluy Andrade. She’s perched on a barstool at a pop-up Chef’s Table, her arms resting on the brown marble counter as she leans forward to observe students plating appetizers, salads, entrées and desserts. It’s a lot to take in; the Chef’s Table is held only a few times each semester—and seats only eight lucky diners—but when it pops up, they feast on not four, but eight or nine consummate courses. As Marluy waves me over, I can see her happy anticipation of the meal to come. Our readers may know her as the curator of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s “Great Finds” department, but more importantly (for this occasion), Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

Top, left to right: Creating a handsome table setting is a skill front-of-house students learn to ace. Before graduating from the program in June, Courtney Galarita earned the Julie Umetsu Hospitality Award—one reason she’s all smiles, standing beside chef/instructor Tom Lelli. After graduating, Galarita was snapped up by Taverna restaurant in Kapalua. Above: Dining instructor Mark Malone makes sure the service at Class Act is top-notch.

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she’s general manager of The Beast & Spoon, a personalchef/event-catering company. Marluy knows her stuff. She tells me, “One of my favorite parts about having lunch here is how the students make a fine-dining experience less froufrou. It’s as if they took the ‘pretentious’ out and replaced it with ‘love and dedication.’” A lot of the credit belongs to Mark Malone, diningroom instructor for Leis Family Class Act Restaurant. His culinary and master’s degrees in hospitality and management won him a position at the Grand Wailea Resort in 1991; nine years later, he had worked his way up to director of catering and conference services. He spent the following fifteen years as director of meetings and special events for The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. He says, “I learned that the opportunity to serve is an honor and a gift; it is rich and it is humbling.” Mark brought that work ethic with him when he joined the University of Hawai‘i Maui College Culinary Arts Program. “There is no higher honor than to serve our students. My biggest goal and greatest accomplishment has been to see our students succeed, and to see them serve with dignity and style.” The team’s other half is Tom Lelli; the New Jersey native has been teaching a “class act” here since 2002. My introduction to his cooking style began at his former restaurant, Mañana Garage. As a regular patron, I relished the vibrant flavors of the Caribbean–South American

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARK MALONE (2); MIEKO HORIKOSHI (2)

Dining

fare. The house-cured salmon and arepas (corn cakes) with crème fraiche were my favorites. Today, Chef Tom pours that exuberance into his work with students. “I love seeing the look on a student’s face when they learn how to do something they thought they never could, or when they realize they have found their passion in life and I was part of the reason, sharing what I have learned in my career as a chef and as a person.” The admiration is mutual. Tanya Doyle, chef de partie at The Ritz-Carlton’s Banyan Tree restaurant, is a 2016 graduate, and credits the program with helping to open doors to her career. “While learning the basics, I was able to work with many well-

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known Maui chefs and pick up techniques from each [of them]. The culinary arts program is the best way to get connected with [the island’s] culinary industry.” Although I called too late to secure a reservation at today’s Chef’s Table, Class Act’s regular menu is worth the anticipation. Besides, I know that Marluy will later share a vicarious taste of her eight-course banquet. (And she does: “We started with a foie gras dish that, in my opinion, stole the show. The soup and salad were elegant,” she sighs, then launches into a description of the two primi courses: crispy duck confit and beef tenderloin with a classic Béarnaise sauce. Following that, “a cheese course and a stunningly plated mille feuilles.” Marluy

smiles, remembering. “It had parchmentthin layers of puff pastry sandwiching vanilla and strawberry cream, dusted with dark cocoa powder.”) I am seated at a table that still lets me peek at the pop-up lunch those lucky diners are savoring, then immerse myself in this week’s French menu. I can already taste the tender duck confit, its brittle skin more delicate than the thinnest fried potato chip. And maybe, next time, I’ll try the Chef’s Table. LEIS FAMILY CLASS ACT RESTAURANT Pa‘ina Building (upstairs), 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului | 984-3280 | Hours : 11 a.m.–2 p.m. (last seating at 12:30) | Find next semester’s schedule and menu at OpenTable.com. Reservations: OpenTable.com, or 984-3280

TOP: MARTIN WYAND; BOTTOM: BECKY SPEERE

Top: Award-winning students Jethro Anton (Dining Service) and Motley Adovas (Overall Culinary Excellence) team up to plate at the Chef’s Table. In June, Motley was drafted by a new team: The Plantation House restaurant in Kapalua. Above, from left: Duck confit with creamy pommes aligot; pastry chef/instructor Teresa Shurilla’s crispy mille-feuille, layered with berries and vanilla pastry cream, and served with house-made red currant sorbetto; seafood gratin dusted with buttered breadcrumbs.

STEAKS, SEAFOOD AND SUSHI Proudly serving Hawai‘i’s freshest, locally-grown products coupled with the exotic ﬂavors of the Paciﬁc Rim. Dine indoors or outside, with spectacular views of the famed Ka‘anapali Beach or watch as creative sushi is rolled to order in the chic Sushi Lounge. Enjoy live music and happy hour every evening in the lively bar and lounge. HAPPY HOUR: 5:00PM - 6:00PM | DINING ROOM & SUSHI LOUNGE: 5:30PM - 9:30PM AT HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT AND SPA, KA’ANAPALI 200 NOHEA KAI DRIVE | WWW.MAUI.HYATT.REGENCY.COM | 808 667 4727

Chef’s Kitchen

BEST OF THE FEST Fourteen Maui restaurants competed at the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival’s seafood finale. Three took home the awards. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

We’re at a blind food tasting at the 2018 Kapalua Wine and Food Festival’s finale, the annual seafood festival cosponsored by Alaska Airlines and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, and one dish captures the judges’ attention and taste buds: onaga (red snapper) ceviche marinated in coconut-mango broth with aji amarillo (Peruvian yellow chili pepper), avocado, and cherry tomatoes from O‘ahu’s Ho Farms. Who created this dish? The honors for this “Best of the Fest” Gold Award went to Jason LaMotte, executive chef of Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar in The Shops at Wailea. The New Orleans native worked in his hometown under celebrity chef John Besh, then served as chef de cuisine for Gordon Ramsay’s Maze Restaurant in the food-centric city of Prague, where his culinary and teamwork skills helped to garner a Michelin star. His love of Hawai‘i led LaMotte to divide his time between O‘ahu and Maui for the better part of five years. Now settled on Maui, he finds himself working with the island’s best food products to create Tommy Bahama’s distinctive, delectable dishes. The lucky judges were Daniel Chun, Alaska Airlines director of

Onaga Snapper Ceviche

sales, community and public relations; Patrick Okubo, master sommelier, certified wine educator and certified specialist of spirits for Young’s Market Hawaii; Michael Garaghty, executive chef of Wüstof-Trident of America; and, representing MNKO, publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn and me, dining editor. Amid many standout dishes, LaMotte’s earned the Gold, with Chef Bret Pafford of Gannon’s taking the Silver for his Kona lobster spring roll with lychee sweet-and-sour. And fans voted the UH Maui College Culinary Arts Program their favorite for creations like Chef Craig Omori’s charred octopus with turnip mochi and aka miso red chili sauce garnished with sea asparagus. “The seafood festival is one of our favorite (and delicious) events,” Daniel Chun enthused. “Every year, the participating chefs show off their amazing talents and creativity, featuring the best seafood and local flavors. It’s a tough job for the judges to select the winning dishes!” From left: Students from University of Hawai‘i Maui College Culinary Arts Program dish up the fan favorites: octopus with mochi cake and aka miso sauce (not shown); and seared ginger-cured salmon with Tahitian lime and coconut aioli on a crispy rice chip.

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Tommy Bahama executive chef Jason Lamotte happily displays the prizes for his awardwinning dish at the 2018 Kapalua Seafood Festival. From left: judges Becky Speere, Diane Haynes Woodburn, Patrick Okubo, Mike Garaghty, and right of Lamotte, Daniel Chun.

ONAGA SNAPPER CEVICHE Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar 8–10 Servings | Prep Time: 30 minutes plus 45 minutes to marinate fish 2 pounds onaga (red snapper) cut into ½” dice 2 cups fresh lime juice 8 ounces fingerling potatoes 2 ears fresh corn, kernels blanched and cut off the cob 1 cup Hawaiian chili water (See recipe at right.) ¼ cup fresh cucumber juice ⅛ cup mango purée 3 tablespoons aji amarillo ½ cup coconut milk 1 cup olive oil salt & cracked pepper, to taste 4 ounces red onions, sliced as thinly as possible 2 ounces cilantro, minced 6 ounces English cucumber, sliced 3 Fresno chilis, seeded and finely diced, or to taste 2 tablespoons tobiko (orange flying-fish roe), optional pinch or 2 of micro cilantro, optional PROCEDURE: Marinate fish in lime juice in a nonreactive bowl for 45 minutes. Refrigerate. Blanch potatoes until tender, about 5–7 minutes. Peel potatoes and slice into small rounds. Stir in 1 cup lime vinaigrette (See recipe at right.) and marinate for 1 hour. Drain in colander. In blender, pulse mango purée, aji amarillo, and coconut milk. On low speed,

slowly drizzle in olive oil until emulsified. Season with salt and cracked pepper. Thoroughly drain the snapper and combine with red onions, cilantro, cucumbers, and Fresno chilis. Add the coconut-mango dressing and toss gently to combine. Garnish with the potatoes, tobiko and micro greens. Hawaiian Chili Pepper Water 1 hot chili pepper, bruised 24 ounces water 1 garlic clove, bruised 1 teaspoon salt Place all ingredients in a mason jar and shake until salt dissolves. Store in refrigerator for up to 1 month. Lime Vinaigrette from Flavors of the Southern Coast, Cooking with Tommy Bahama by Rick Rodgers ⅔ cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons Creole mustard, or Dijon ½ teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper Process all ingredients in a blender for 15 seconds. “I’ve loved ceviche for as long as I can remember, but the best I have ever had is made in the Peruvian style, with fresh corn, pickled vegetables, aji amarillo and poached potatoes. This version features the basic Peruvian preparation with a bit of Hawai‘i in the form of chili-pepper water. It’s the best of both worlds.” —Executive Chef Jason LaMotte Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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Dining Highlights

LOVE BITES Music may be the food of love, but when it comes to romantic dining, these restaurants are playing your song. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

What better place to begin our journey than one named for history’s most famous lover? Sage- and brown-butter ravioli is my favorite dish, but tonight my husband and I are letting Chef Lorenzo Alvera guide our culinary adventure. We snuggle into our corner (table 19, if you’d like to request it), and soon our server, Brittany Smith, delivers the first course: butter-seared scallops topped with tobiko and capers. The sweet ocean flavors burst with each mouthful. Next, halfmoon-shaped mezzaluna ravioli filled with artichoke and ricotta, topped with flash-fired gamberini, and slathered in a rich, creamy lobster-saffron sauce; it’s so mouthwateringly sublime that we use the hearth-fired focaccia to soak up the remaining sauce until only the white plate remains. The entrée Alvera prepares is a New York strip loin served with—what else?—a grilled lobster tail with a ramekin of warm rosemary-infused butter, creamy garlic mashed potatoes, and a mélange of fresh sautéed zucchini, bell pepper and tomato. The bed of arugula and Parmesan under the steak is classic, light, and a great foil to the richness of the lobster.

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Luckily, we’ve saved just enough room for our favorite ending: tiramisu. The chocolate and mascarpone, layered with ladyfingers and dipped in espresso, pairs well with our chianti. As we leave, Smith shares with us that Chef ’s wife is also dining here tonight, and he’s prepared the same dishes for his love. 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220

THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION

With its décor of rusty old turbines, equipment parts from a closed sugar mill, and an actual steam locomotive like the ones that

used to haul sugarcane, The Mill House is an artful reminder of Maui’s agricultural past. Tropical water features, eye-catching sculptures, and a serpentine array of white dinner plates above the bar are a visual feast. This restaurant holds a special place in our hearts for two reasons. The first is that our daughter Kali and her husband, Kazuya, held their wedding reception here in 2016. The second is the well-curated menu Chef Jeff Scheer and his culinary team create. Our private gazebo sits apart from the restaurant, overlooking the pond and the mountain slopes beyond. Our knowledgeable server, Jaimee Petroff, is dedicated to our every whim, and paces our courses. The first appears on a wooden board bearing a sampler of appetizers: kanpachi tartare, tender chickpea cakes, and hoisin oxtail rillettes. Next: tapas-sized portions of ceviche in a citrus vinaigrette with a hint of jalapeño; a spunky, vinegary beet salad juxtaposed with triple-cream Cambozola; and kalbi steak with green papaya slaw and crunchy Waikapū

BECKY SPEERE

Far left: Seared scallops in caper-brown butter sauce. Above: gamberini nestled on housemade mezzaluna ravioli with lobster sauce. Left: The perfect Casanova ending, tiramisu to “lift me up.”

CASANOVA ITALIAN RESTAURANT & DELI

SAVOR THE MEAL. DEVOUR THE VIEW. Dining worthy of the paradise that surrounds it. Located in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

For reservations 808-879-2999 or visit wolfgangpuck.com

Dining Highlights

Clockwise from above: pan-seared Big Island kanpachi with soubise turnips and sweet onion purée; gnocchi and quinoa grains tossed in Calabrian butter; appetizer trio of kanpachi tartare with ikura, hoisin oxtail rillettes; and chickpea cakes.

HUMUHUMU

The Upcountry cocktail is tricking my mind and taste buds. I ask the bartender, “Is there mezcal in the cocktail?” “No,” he answers, “it’s the kiawe-smoked strawberries.” It’s delicious and a great way to begin a relaxing date

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night with my husband, Chris. Über-talented chef Mike Lofaro greets us to propose selections from his new menu. It’s been over a year since we’ve dined here, and we’re excited to try his latest creations. Server and wine-pairing expert Christine Henderson delivers two glasses of champagne. We’ve decided to really unwind and leave the pairings to her. “Veuve Cliquot is perfect with the first course, Bito-Sushi,” she says. “It’s like a symphony in your mouth.” We savor the sweet nuttiness of fresh-pressed Maui sunflower oil enveloping every bite of hamachi; bubu arare (tiny rice-cracker beads) add crunch and toastedrice flavor. Next, ‘ulu (breadfruit) risotto cloaked in a chive-lemon purée laden with shaved black truffle. Henderson pairs it with Cakebread Cellars chardonnay. And lastly,

Lofaro’s honey-spiced Moroccan lamb with slow-roasted root vegetables. We bid adieu to one of our all-time favorite chefs, marveling at Lofaro’s creative repertoire of ingredients, combinations and flavors. Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

PACIFIC’O

When windsurfing buddies Louis Coulombe and Stephan Bel-Robert opened a restaurant at 505 Front Street twenty-five years ago, little did they know that it would become a leading destination for marriage proposals and weddings. Add the culinary mastery of chef Greg Harrison, and perfection hits its high note. Pacific’O is on Lahaina’s beachfront, and tonight we experience theater au naturel

From left: Bubu arare adds crunch to tender morsels of hamachi; ‘ulu risotto gets dressed up with shaved truffle, nasturtiums and parmesan; an orange sunset reflects on the pond at Humuhumu Restaurant. MauiMagazine.net

TOP (3): KALI SPEERE; BOTTOM (3): BECKY SPEERE

macadamia nuts. Every bite reflects Scheer’s culinary prowess. Vegetarian potato gnocchi tossed in Calabrian butter marries well with kiawe-wood-fired chicken with roasted turnips and sweet baby carrots, and pan-seared kanpachi. Somehow, we find room for buttermilk panna cotta and chocolate pie with raspberry ganache. Sitting in this quiet space, listening to the water falling, we linger, reveling in our life on Maui. 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333

DON’ T JUST EAT DINNER EXPERIENCE IT From fresh farm-to-table dining options at our signature restaurant, Ka’ana Kitchen to the islands newest most exclusive lu’au experience, The Feast at Mokapu, allow dinner to be more than just a meal. Allow it to be an experience you take home and remember for a lifetime. EXPERIENCE DINNER WITH US BY CALLING +1 808 573 1234 OR VISIT US ONLINE AT WWW.ANDAZMAUI.COM

ROMANTIC OCEANFRONT DINING ON ONE OF

MAUI’S PREMIER BEACHES

FEATURING BRUNCH, HAPPY HOUR AND DINNER DAILY

RESERVATIONS 808 875 7555 2980 SOUTH KIHEI RD. KIHEI, MAUI, HI 96753 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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Left to right: Pacific’O’s kale risotto laden with a melange of seafood and shaved fennel; pickled beets on creamy goat cheese topped with O’o Farm greens; harissa and sesame crusted rack of lamb with tempura kale.

as the sun slips behind clouds, spreading a spectacular, undulating orange veil over our heads. We sip farm-to-glass cocktails made with O’o Farm citrus, its color mirroring the sky. Coulombe and Bel-Robert own the farm, and supply much of the produce served here, so you can expect the freshest fruits and vegetables used in Pacific’O’s salads, tempura and entrées. Tonight, Chef has prepared a menu to highlight the veggies, along with local seafood, venison, and harissa-sesame-crusted lamb. We begin with pickled golden beets and cheese from Surfing Goat Dairy. Next, a house salad dressed with a citrus vinaigrette, followed by surf-and-turf appetizers: ‘inamona

‘ahi poke, and venison carpaccio. For the finale, Harrison shows his deft command of ingredients: kale risotto with seared diver scallops, Kaua‘i prawns and ‘ahi; olive-oilpoached mahimahi; and lamb chops prepared in Mediterranean spices. And proposals are free. 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341

5 PALMS RESTAURANT

When 5 Palms manager Keenan Randolph said that he wished cioppino was regularly on the menu, I knew I had to order tonight’s dinner special. “Sous chef James Osaki is in the kitchen,” says Randolph, “and he makes a killer seafood stew.” Chris orders the bonein rib eye steak with bacon-tomato jam. As we luxuriate in this beachside location, Henderson shares that summer weddings at the restaurant have become very popular. “We had ceremonies back to back for two straight weeks.” We see why. The al fresco dining room

is filled to capacity, and as the sun sets, we are blessed with a sky awash in colors. Our appetizer is a sashimi trio: salmon, hamachi and ahi garnished with cucumber namasu. The light rice-vinegar dressing is a tangy accent to the fresh fish; a glass of Michael David fumé blanc is a perfect match for the sashimi. Soon a generous bowl of cioppino (mine) and a thick-cut rib eye with classic potatoes dauphinoise (Chris’s) arrive, piping hot, served with a basket of bread with liliko‘i butter and pink ‘alaea salt. Half a lobster, deep-water onaga (pink snapper) and shellfish in a saffron broth bring a smile to my lips as I take a sip. Chris slices into his perfectly grilled medium-rare steak. We end the meal with pineapple crème brûlée—a specialty of the house—and in the blink of an eye, Chris has devoured nearly the entire dessert. Sublimely sated, we amble out. Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607

Left to right: 5 Palms sashimi trio with pickled ginger and namasu (cucumber salad); cioppino chocked full of gifts from the sea; tender rib eye with bacon jam and red wine demi-glace.

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TOP (3): KALI SPEERE; BOTTOM (3): BECKY SPEERE

Dining Highlights

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Mixology

LOVE BITES When it comes to finding ingredients for refreshing and flavorful cocktails, there’s no place like home. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY KALI SPEERE

HALEAKALĀ SUNRISE Courtesy of Pacific’O Located in Kula, 3,500 feet up the slopes of Haleakalā, O’o Farms grows farm-to-glass ingredients for Pacific’O restaurant in Lahaina. Bright orange and fresh, mandarin juice is the star of Haleakalā Sunrise. A garnish of sunflower petals creates a palette as beautiful as the House of the Sun.

Da Funky Farmer

1 ounce St. George Botanivore gin ½ ounce St. George Bruto Americano 1 ounce mandarin orange juice 3 dashes Angostura bitters ¾ ounce simple syrup (1:1 sugar-to-water ratio) splash of soda or sparking water Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Strain into a martini or coupe glass. Float a few organic sunflower petals as garnish.

DA FUNKY FARMER Courtesy of The Mill House The namesake of the Doctor Funk cocktail is Bernard Funk, the physician who took care of Robert Louis Stevenson (of Treasure Island fame) when the author lived in Samoa. Da Funky Farmer is a nod to the Doctor Funk cocktail, but uses primarily local ingredients. We created a grenadine recipe with Maui-grown jaboticaba and cane juice pressed in-house; macadamia-nut orgeat using Maui macadamia nuts; and KōHana heirloom Hawaiian cane rum. Lastly, it’s garnished with Kumu Farms fennel fronds.—Dane Dostert, head mixologist/sustainability coordinator, The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation

Haleakalā Sunrise

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1 ounce KōHana Rum 1 ounce Plantation Jamaica Rum ½ ounce jaboticaba grenadine ½ ounce macadamia-nut orgeat ½ ounce lime Juice 1/3 ounce St. George Absinthe Build all ingredients in a shaker tin, give a quick shake with ice, and strain into an empty Tom Collins or bamboo glass, or any tiki-style vessel. Fill glass completely with crushed ice. Top with 1/3 ounce St. George Absinthe (floated on top of the drink after finishing) and garnish with an extra-funky fennel frond.

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dining guide

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

» B = Breakfast »BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » D = Dinner »N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » RR = Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2018

WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown Upcountry at O‘o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Auntie’s Kitchen, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$ The Banyan Tree, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Hokkaido seared scallops with smoked pork belly. Kula corn and farro risotto with Hāmākua mushroom. Smoked rib-eye steak, Ali‘i mushrooms and cheddar potatoes. . . .Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Breakwall Shave Ice, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite island flavor. Treats. $ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. For breakfast: Surfing Goat Dairy cheese crêpes with Kula strawberries or croque-madame made with Hawaiian sweet bread filled with kālua pork and Gruyère mornay sauce. For dinner: Kaua‘i prawns and Kona kampachi with beet dashi, kabocha squash, or mushroom Bolognese over yaki soba noodles. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6670585. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

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Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 6670908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fiftiesdiner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

Bar and enjoy crunchy island style poke tacos and Tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$

Down the Hatch, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of southern aloha . . . great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N, RR. $$

Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$

Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 6675353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, D. $$–$$$$ Foodland, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0975. Don’t let the fact that it’s a supermarket fool you. From spicy ‘ahi and sesame-shoyu octopus, to Korean shredded dried ika (squid), these poke choices will boggle your mind. But order up! Folks are waiting in line behind you! Second West Maui location: 345 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-7088. Poke. $ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot

Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho on rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Second West Maui location: Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the awardwinning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6677733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat-cheese-and-arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemon grass miso salmon and Duros pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Free ocean views. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern.

Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ MauiGrown Coffee Company Store, 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728. If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $ Maui Sugar Shop, 700 Office Rd., Kapalua, 6620033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Mauka Makai, Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400. Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing. Monkeypod Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763. See South Side listing. Myths of Maui, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119. Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 632 Front St., Lahaina, 6623456. See North Shore listing. Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian Wagyu beef burger served al fresco. American. L, D N. $–$$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. After working hard on that round of golf or that outing at the beach, you deserve a treat. Grab a refreshing appetizer of lime-marinated ceviche with house-made tortilla chips, or a New York-style pastrami sandwich. Hawai‘i Regional/American. L. $–$$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

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dining guide of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6673200. Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$

flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features Hawai‘iproduced spirits and house-made infusions. Kidfriendly. International. B, D. RR. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the ocean. American. D, N. $$$$

Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$

Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/ Pizza. D. $$

Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. World-class mixology by Junior Bumanglag. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

ROCKsalt, Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and

The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with

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fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar—one more reason Sea House won 2018’s ‘Aipono Award for Best Happy Hour. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shaka Sushi, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911. Bet you can’t say “Shaka Sushi” five times fast—not when you’re chowing down on their tasty omelets in the a.m., bentos at lunchtime, or some of the nine specialty sushi rolls served at dinner. Asian. B, L, D. $-$$ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 226 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-9000. Head to the refrigerated section for a huge selection of fresh ‘ahi poke prepared in Maui’s ethnic flavors of the rainbow: Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Hawaiian, plus poke bowls made to order. Poke. $ Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919. Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. And for dessert? Sticky rice and mango. Yum! Thai. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 Togoshi, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868--0307. Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ Amigo’s, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays —when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy

vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out/eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. Try the new Juice Bar! American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 875-8100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smoky bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Mauistyle Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$•Sec-

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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dining guide ond South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234 D.

sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. D. $–$$

Four Winds II, 11 Mā‘alaea Boat Harbor Rd., Mā‘alaea, 879-8188. Breakfast, lunch and cocktails aboard this catamaran make the trip a fun and delicious adventure. American. B, L. $$

Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ 5 Palms Restaurant, Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul Bermudez navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific. Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style. Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Foodland, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9350. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675. Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $ Second location: 120 Hookele St, Kahului, 793-2356 Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally

Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$ Humuhumu, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Bit-o-Sushi appetizer, kale and burrata salad and ‘ulu gnocchi are a few of Chef Mike Lofaro’s original creations. Foraged ingredients, too! Splendid mixology! Pacific Rim. D. $$$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

Kamana Kitchen, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888. Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Lehua Lounge, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge

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More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

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S AME

• ALWAY S LOC AL

The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Mendo Maui, located in the food truck lot behind Azeka Mall Mauka, 1 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 7555760. Fresh ramen noodles, Korean mandoo and kimchee. Follow them on Instagram: @mendomaui. Japanese/Korean L, D. $ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, D. $$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Mulligans on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131. Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, D, N. $–$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Nutcharee’s Thai Food, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$ Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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dining guide Ono Gelato Kīhei, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 495-0287. You don‘t have to go to Italy to enjoy a great gelato. And how’s this for a scoop: Ono makes gelato not only in traditional flavors, but also with local tropical fruits that will have you coming back for more. Treats. $ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing. Piko Café and Restaurant, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2671. Fried rice or buttermilk pancakes for breakfast, bento lunches for the beach, plus dry mein, waffle dogs, burgers, katsu, killer salads, and a signature dessert: haupia-chia-ube pudding. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L. $ The Pint & Cork, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. The best mac-andcheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! International. L, D, N. $–$$ Pita Paradise, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 8797177. Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kababs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$$ Pizza Madness, 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 894-8880. See West Side listing. Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, D. RR. $–$$$ Seascape Restaurant, Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068. Located next to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up great harbor views with a side of sweet aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfpound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge, on a buttery cookie-crumb crust. American. L (daily), D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ Shearwater Tavern, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2324. Gastropub food and drink have never

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More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide been finer, as partners D.K. Kodama and Chuck Furuya tag team the bar and kitchen to create a venue worthy of your attention. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Wolfgang Puck’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 91 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 891-2420. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff greet you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/ Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose rosemary-

garlic-crusted steak on roasted-garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, wine, and Maui Brewery selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

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dining guide Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing. Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono (excellence) perfectly describes their pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. Taro veggie burgers and poi açai bowls with fresh fruit are delicious spins on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $

importers & distributors of the world’s finest wines since 1973 Forty-five years ago, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants started as a small family affair, with Jack Chambers, his wife Barbara, and daughter Suzanne. The company has grown to include multiple offices and an incredibly rich and diverse portfolio of wines (and sake) from around the world, while still remaining in the Chambers family. We would like to thank our partners from around the world, as well as our dedicated staff for their commitment and efforts to reach this milestone and look forward to the exciting years to come.

Foodland, 90 Kane St., Kahului, 877-2808. See West Side listing. Additional Central Maui locations: 370 Kehalani Village Dr., Wailuku, 244-4460; Sack N Save, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 244-0356. Poke. $ Fork & Salad, Puunene Shopping Center, 120 Ho’okele St. Unit 330, Kahului. 793-3256. See West Side listing. Kahili Restaurant, 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahili Golf Course, Wailuku, 242-6000. Friday night dinner buffet and Sunday brunch include poke, snow crab, beef prime rib, and housemade desserts. Live music included! Breakfast all day, every day, includes specialties of the house: Asian fried rice and locomoco with kalua pork. B, L, D. $-$$$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

global portfolio knowledgable team exceptional service

The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707. Home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Poi by the Pound, 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381. Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawaiian. B, L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 873-8000. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: Tamura’s Express, 841 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-0957. Poke. $

@ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi @ChambersWinesHI Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community Since 1979 www.chamberswines.com

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Thai Mee Up, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369. Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026. See West Side listing. Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikake-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy; spicy fried chicken sandwich, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. UMI maui, 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 2691802. Winner of the Silver ‘Aipono for best new restaurant, this sushi bar brings creative presentations to old Wailuku Town. Japanese. L, D. $–$$ Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Ice cream, sandwiches and espresso served in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad- and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Soups and sandwiches served with fresh local greens, but a favorite with diners is the portobello mushroom and bacon burger . . . need we say more? American. B, L. $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing. Foodland, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 5720674. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-fromscratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $–$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$–$$$$ Kojima’s Sushi, 81 Makawao Ave., Pukalani, 5732859. This third-generation, family-owned restaurant offers classic and modern sushi, combination bentos with teriyaki salmon, and California rolls consistently served with aloha. Sushi. D. $–$$ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Lumeria’s Wooden Crate, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877. Fresh, locally caught fish and

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dining guide other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the basis for some of the garden dishes served at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D (RR). $$–$$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrées like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. Mexican. L, D. $$ Sala Dang Thai Kitchen, 824 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 468-4166. Thai food served family style in a cozy, plantation-house setting. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kāluapork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $

ing rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, RR. $$$

Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American/Pizza. B, L, D. $–$$.

Paia Bay Coffee and Bar, 115 Hāna Hwy. Unit G, Pā‘ia, 579-3111. On the backside of San Lorenzo Clothing Company in Pā‘ia is one of Maui’s hidden jewels wrapped in a lush tropical garden. Crowds line up and order fresh croissants and breakfast sandwiches. Espresso drinks and mimosas, too. Going on a hike? Order a sandwich to-go! B, L, D. $-$$

Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maplefennel sausage and roasted veggies make this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Jaws Country Store, 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 419-6887. Dig into a poached egg on sourdough toast with tomato, caramelized onions and pesto; or try a poke bowl with mac nuts, avo and Maui onions. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 5798488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$– $$$$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ nyloS, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354. Fresh out of the gate, this fine-dining restaurant has been garner-

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798030. Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Paia Inn Café, 93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004. Strawberry-papaya parfaits, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a delicious (and photo-worthy) cheese platter served with honeycomb to sweeten the deal. Originality shines at the Inn. International. B, BR. $–$$

HĀNA Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hānasourced produce and fish ground an original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808565-6962. For eighteen years, this mom-and-pop coffee shop has served delish, freshly baked goods. The full breakfast and lunch menus are also well worth the look. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Asian-influenced cuisine is served in cozy comfort in a historic inn. Try the crabcake appetizers with spicy aioli, and fresh fish over rice pilaf. Asian/American. D, RR. $–$$$

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

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Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-totable fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start the day with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$. Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celebrity chef Matsuhisa-san has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe Lawenko at this beautiful open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$

calendar

Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

Septemb Top: September 8, Kū Mai Ka Hula | Left: September 2–November 25, Above the Fold | Middle: September 5, Kelly Covington | Right: September 21, ‘Ohina Short Film Showcase

DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

1-2

-NOVEMBER 25

Above the Fold: New Expressions in Origami Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Origami artists from four continents present a look at modern advances in this art form. In these artists’ hands, origami has evolved in remarkable new directions, including large-scale installations and conceptual works. Discover the art and mathematics of origami with a hands-on art activity during Observe & Play Family Day on Oct. 27, 10 a.m.-noon. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Into the Woods Castle Theater, MACC Featuring everyone’s favorite storybook characters in one magical tale, MAPA LIVE brings this Tony- and Drama Desk-award-winning musical to the stage. Some material may not be suitable for children under 10. Saturday, 7:30 p.m.; Sunday, 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; Maui Academy.org

Concerts at The Shops & Jazz at The Shops The Shops at Wailea These free outdoor concerts feature Kelly Covington on Sept. 5; Kamaka Kukona and his hālau hula (hula troupe) on Sept. 19; Margo Leduc on Oct. 3; and Amy Hanaiali‘i on Oct. 17. 5:30-7 p.m. 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 891-6770; TheShopsAt Wailea.com

Maui Channel Swim Lāna‘i to Moloka‘i The Pacific Ocean sets the stage for this approximately 10-mile relay across the sometimes treacherous ‘Au‘au Channel. Race concludes on the beach fronting Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. Come cheer the swimmers on! MauiChannelSwim.com

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Trevor Gordon Hall McCoy Studio Theater, MACC With only his guitar, Hall delivers acoustic sounds ranging from edgy rhythms to delicate melodies. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

5, 19; OCTOBER 3, 17

Sep 7, Oct 5 First Friday Wailuku Sep 14, Oct 12 Second Friday Lahaina Sep 21, Oct 19 Third Friday Makawao Sep 28, Oct 26 Fourth Friday Kīhei

Lāhui Sexuality Panel Discussion McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This panel discussion is for those interested in deeper Hawaiian arts themes. Recommended for mature audiences. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Lā ‘Ulu (Breadfruit Day) Maui Nui Botanical Gardens This annual ‘ulu (breadfruit) festival includes live entertainment, ‘ulu cooking demonstrations, Hawaiian cultural activities and a plant sale. Admission is free. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Kū Mai Ka Hula Castle Theater, MACC Dancers from Hawai‘i and beyond compete in modern and traditional hula. 1 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Seabury Hall Benefit Golf Tournament Wailea Emerald Course This golf tournament raises funds for Seabury’s financial aid and scholarship programs. 7:45 a.m. 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea; 442-6113; SeaburyHall.org

–NOVEMBER 9

Mālama Wao Akua Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui and East Maui Watershed Partnership collaborate on this multimedia juried exhibition to raise awareness about the importance of protecting native species and the forested upper regions of our islands’ watersheds. Gallery hours: 9 a.m.– 4 p.m. Opening reception: September 14, 5–8 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; MalamaWaoAkua.org

BOTTOM ROW, MIDDLE: COURTESY OF ARTIST; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

SEPTEMBER

‘Ohina Short Film Showcase McCoy Studio Theater, MACC View independent films from Hawai‘i, including The Moon & the Night, Last Taxi Dance, Kālewa, Hae Hawai‘i, and Mauka to Makai. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Kulāia Kaunakakai, Moloka‘i Moloka‘i Canoe Festivals presents this block party featuring local entertainment, cultural practitioners, food, craft and merchandise vendors, and more. 5–10 p.m. 658-0104; Kulaia.WixSite.com/ KulaiaMolokai

St. John’s Kula Festival St. John’s Church Enjoy entertainment, food booths, Kula produce, a silent auction and more at this Upcountry tradition. 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 8992 Kula Hwy., Kula; 878-1485; StJohnsMaui.org/KulaFest

Chinese Moon Festival Wo Hing Museum Celebrate Maui’s agricultural harvest—and rich cultural history—during a traditional Chinese Moon Festival. Sample Chinese tea and moon cakes, and explore lantern making, calligraphy, music and more. 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-3262; LahainaRestoration.org

ber 23, 29-30; OCTOBER 20-21

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

MalaMa Wao akua a Native SpecieS exhibitioN SepteMber 14 - NoveMber 9 a collaboration between hui No‘eau & east Maui Watershed partnership

hui No‘eau visual arts center 2841 Baldwin Ave. • huinoeau.com Open Daily 9am - 4pm • Free Admission

This exhibition is presented with support from the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

26-30

High Powered Doubles Tennis Camp Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch Mike and Bob Bryan, a.k.a. the “Bryan Brothers,” lead this intimate camp that focuses on the art of doubles and strategies of the game. Open to players with a 4.0 to 5.5 rating. 2780 Keka‘a Drive, Lahaina. For reservations, contact Cathy Nicoloff at 264-0752. RoyalLahaina.com

–OCTOBER 14

Rumors Historic ‘Īao Theater In this outrageous farce, the deputy mayor of New York City accidentally shoots himself just before an anniversary party. Presented by Maui OnStage. 7:30 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays; 3 p.m. Sundays. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage. com

Fur Ball Four Seasons Resort Maui Maui Humane Society promises a barkin’ good time during “Gimme Shelter . . . A Rock & Roll Fur Ball,” featuring gourmet food, music, auctions and more. 5 p.m. 3900 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 8773680, ext. 219; MauiHumaneSociety.org

‘Ukulele Workshop McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Beginning to intermediate players who can hold C, F, and G7 chords are invited to bring their own ‘ukulele for this free workshop. 10–11:30 a.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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Perfect Pairings Maui Mauka Makai, The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas This festival-style event features gourmet food from Mauka Makai, 2018 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best New Restaurant; local craft beers and small-batch spirits, plus a silent auction and live entertainment by Ben Deleon. 6-9 p.m. Must be 21 or older to attend. Cost is $90 per person, with proceeds benefiting Big Brothers Big Sisters of Maui. 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; 662-6300; To purchase tickets, visit BbbsHawaii.org/ MauiEvents

Maui ‘Ukulele Festival A&B Amphitheater Relax in an open-air setting and enjoy a free concert by acclaimed musicians, ‘ukulele door prizes, and island foods for purchase. Bring your own beach chairs and mats. 1–6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

MAPA’s 30th Annual Garden Party Yokouchi Family Estate, Wailuku Join Maui Academy of Performing Arts for fine wine and cuisine, entertainment and auction benefiting MAPA’s educational performing-arts programs. Must be 21 or older. 1-5 p.m. 2471 W. Main St., Wailuku; 244-8760; MauiAcademy.org

OCTOBER

New Order Castle Theater, MACC New Order’s integration of post-punk with electronic and dance music made them one of the most critically acclaimed bands of the 1980s. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

4-7

Maui Fair War Memorial Complex Bring the whole family to one of Maui’s oldest traditions, featuring favorite local foods, entertainment, midway rides and games, livestock, horticulture, crafts and more. Ka‘ahumanu and Kanaloa avenues in Kahului. MauiFair.com

Rebelution A&B Amphitheater, MACC This Grammy-nominated reggae band presents its “Free Rein Hawaii Tour” with guests Tribal Seeds and Hirie. 6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Kalani Pe‘a McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Nā Hōkū Hanohano and Grammy winner Kalani Pe‘a will perform original compositions from his new release, No ‘Ane‘i, joined by guest performers Nā Wai ‘Ehā. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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October 6, Kalani Pe‘a

Eric Bibb Castle Theater, MACC Known internationally as one of the most imaginative musicians working within the blues tradition, Bibb learned early on that both music and politics matter. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Maui Paddle for a Cure Hanakao‘o Beach Park Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa cosponsors this fun paddle to raise breast-cancer awareness and funds for Susan G. Komen Hawaii. It’s open to stand-up paddle, kayak and canoe, with participants paddling from the beach park south of the Hyatt towards Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) and back. 2501 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali; KomenHawaii.org

This Cuban pianist is one of the brightest lights on Havana’s current jazz scene. His trio includes his brother and drummer, Ruy Adrián López-Nussa; and bassist Gaston Joya. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

19-21

Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Two of Hawai‘i’s James Beard Award-winning chefs, Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi, join a Who’s Who of the culinary world in cooking demos, tastings and wine pairings. The festival kicks off Friday with Roy’s Golf Classic on the Royal Kā‘anapali Course, followed by Spiked!—a dinner prepared by thirteen renowned chefs at Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa on Saturday. On Sunday, the Hyatt Regency Maui hosts a seven-course dinner prepared by chefs from Hawai‘i, California, Louisiana and Washington. HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com

Lehua Kalima and Shawn Pimental McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winning singer/songwriter Lehua Kalima has been performing for decades as part of the celebrated trio Nā Leo Pilimehana. Award-winning record producer and musician Shawn Pimental has toured the world with renowned artists and bands. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Maui Marathon Ho‘okele St., Kahului, to Whalers Village This scenic marathon starts in Kahului and leads past ocean panoramas before ending at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali. Not ready to run 26.2 miles? Sign up for the marathon relay, half-marathon, 10K or 5K happening the same day. MauiMarathon Hawaii.com

Business Fest King Kamehameha Golf Club, Waikapū Maui Native Hawaiian Chamber of Commerce’s annual Business Fest features speakers, networking, and an exhibition of locally owned businesses at this all-day event. 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū; mnhcoc.org

17-20

Ola I Ka Pū Hala weaving conference Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Master weavers from throughout Hawai‘i share their knowledge and skills to perpetuate this beloved and ancient art. Classes for beginning to advanced levels include ‘ie‘ie (woody vine woven into baskets), kōkō (knotting a net carrier), and ‘upena (fishnet), and there will be a craft fair, displays, and a silent auction on Saturday. 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Lahaina; 667-0219; Maui WeavingConference.com

Harold Lopez-Nussa Castle Theater, MACC

October 3, New Order

–OCTOBER 18

Honk! Jr. Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this story based on Hans Christian Andersen’s The Ugly Duckling, which follows an odd-looking baby duck on a quest to find his mother. 11 a.m. Saturdays; 1 p.m. Sundays. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage. com

Livingston Taylor Castle Theater, MACC Livingston’s introspective and original songs have earned him listeners worldwide. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Soil McCoy Studio Theater, MACC An intercultural dance theater project by Michael Sakamoto references political conflict, colonialism, refugees and immigration, performed through the personal narratives of three contemporary dancers, each also with a background in the classical dance forms of Cambodia, Thailand, and Vietnam. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Halloween in Lahaina Front Street closes to vehicular traffic as ghost, goblins and other masked partygoers come out for a night of ghoulish fun. VisitLahaina. com Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s November-December 2018 print edition must be received by September 14. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

ctobe

SEPTEMBER HIGHLIGHT

PETRA KOVACS

who’s who

MAUI FILM FESTIVAL: SOIREE AT SPAGO | Spago at Four Seasons Resort Maui | June 13, 2018

L to R: Nick & Ellen Harris | David & Carrie Adelmann | Shannah Milstead, Kimberly Marston | Dabe Patterson, Isaac Bancaco | Amy Landin, Laura Mendolia

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

L to R: Nick Robinson | Kathleen Costello, Brian Yano | Wendy Goodman, Colin Farrell | Diane Haynes Woodburn, Amber Heard | Kawika & Bernie Freitas

KAPALUA WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL | The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua | June 15, 2018 | Benefit for Hawaiian Island Land Trust

Above, L to R: Trixy Shimabukuro, Jessica Balanay | Lianne & Mark Driessen | Michelle & Stuart Crane | Jennifer Holzworth, Daniel Gonzalez

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Below, L to R: Sonja Gleeson, Lisa Fitzgerald | Tina Ramirez, Elyse Tacub | Robin & Chris Welsh | Patrick & Robynne Klein

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PROUDLY PRESENTS THE 5TH ANNUAL

Made in Maui

County Festival

NOVEMBER 2 & 3, 2018 • MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Maui County’s Largest Products Show • Hundreds of Locally-Made Products Food Trucks, Prize Drawings, Fashion & Talk Shows, Product Demos, and More!

F R I D A Y, N O V E M B E R 2 • E X C L U S I V E S H O P P I N G D A Y o n i e s & f re e p u p u s , 3 f o o d t p e rs ! O p e n i n g c e re m r u c ks , p r i z e d r a w i n g s , & t o t e s f o r a l l s h o p

S A T U R D A Y, N O V E M B E R 3 • B I G F E S T I V A L D A Y ! c t d e m os , & p r i ze dr a w i n g s al l d

1 3 fo o d t r u c k

s , f a s h i o n & t a l k s h o w s , p ro

ay !

For details, visit: www.Made In MauiCountyFestival.com LOCAL BBQ