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Features 29 » Adventure

5 SENSATIONAL SUNRISES Our favorite places to see them on Maui (that aren’t Haleakalā Crater). Story by Kyle Ellison

38 » Hawaiian Soul

WRITTEN IN STONE A centuries-old site yields clues to Maui’s ancient culture. Story by Kyle Ellison

42 » Maui Style

20 REASONS WE ♥ MAUI Check our annual Shaka List for an insider’s look at what makes Maui nō ka ‘oi (the best). Story by Shannon Wianecki

52 » Island Business

FROM THE GROUND UP With sugar and large-scale pineapple things of the past, smaller, innovative farms are cropping up to take their place. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

58 » Great Finds

30 GREAT GIFT IDEAS We’ve got the goods on where savvy Santas shop. Compiled by Marluy Andrade

68 » At Home

UNTOUCHED BY TIME A historic Olinda home is a portal to the past. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

These colorful sugarcane stalks are some of the varieties Hawaii Sea Spirits grows and presses for their Ocean Organic Vodka and Deep Island Hawaiian Rum. Story on page 52.

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About Our Cover

Maui’s sunrises are world-famous, but sunsets here are spectacular, too, as Mike Neubauer proves with his Mākena Beach photo “Oneloa Blues.”

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Departments 14 Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 Publisher’s Note

124 Calendar

Pinterest.com/MauiMagazine Facebook.com/MauiMagazine

« DINING »

comes to great ingredients and creative preparations, these chefs are on a roll!

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

Stories by Becky Speere

128 Who’s Who

4 PARTY-PERFECT RECIPES Our annual Test Kitchen shows how to celebrate the holidays Italian-style.

102 Mixology

98 Dining Highlights

104 Dining Guide

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

Seen making the scene on Maui

18 Talk Story

130 A Perfect Day on Maui

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ by Judy Edwards, Sarah Ruppenthal, & Shannon Wianecki

Twitter.com/MauiMag Instagram.com/MauiMag

CHEAP THRILLS Exploring the island? Here’s where a little goes a long way. Story by Lehia Apana

88 Dining Feature

CHEF-DRIVEN FOOD TRUCKS Hit the road and enjoy some haute-octane cuisine. When it

2 FEEL-GOOD COCKTAILS We’ve got the skinny on recipes you’ll want to try. A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

Before you even think about taking a “souvenir” rock from Haleakalā crater, we suggest you read Judy Edwards’s story on page 18.

THIS ISSUE ONLINE Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in November) SEE WHAT’S COOKING Behind the scenes at our Holiday Test Kitchen. Log onto MauiMagazine.net/holiday-test-kitchen-2018 DWELLING IN THE PAST Peek inside a century-old Upcountry residence at MauiMagazine.net/Olinda-home. CHRISTMAS CHEERS Cocktails low on calories, high on spirit? Find recipes at MauiMagazine.net/holiday-cocktails. ON A ROLL Go here to find our list of chef-driven food trucks: MauiMagazine.net/food-trucks

LOW-BUDGET FILM Money is no object when it comes to having a perfect Maui day. We’ve got the video to prove it. Maui Magazine.net/budget-adventure. HIGH ART Whoo has a video of a Hawaiian owl’s mating dance? We do—at Maui Magazine.net/Hawaiian-owl.

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RYAN SIPHERS

DRAWN TO DINOSAURS? See this how-to video by illustrator James Silvani at Maui Magazine.net/comic-artist.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What’s your favorite way to give back?

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn CREATIVE DIRECTOR John Giordani SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere HOME & GARDEN EDITOR Sarah Ruppenthal WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch

Spending a few hours at a beach cleanup, reef cleanup, or any community gathering that cleans up our coastlines.—Kyle Ellison

A LOHA W H A L E R S V I L L AG E

Every year, when my son Thomas lived at home, we would pick a child from YMCA’s Angel Tree. Together we would celebrate the season and our blessed life by buying gifts and toys for another person less fortunate. This will be my first year without Thomas, so I think I will pick out two Angel Tree kids this year!—Lisa Liu I participate in Operation Christmas Child. You choose the age and gender of the recipient and fill up a shoebox or two with small goodies/ necessities like paper, crayons, stuffed animals, and clothes. They do not mention where in the world your box will be sent, but knowing you are gifting a less fortunate child on Christmas Day is the best feeling!—Brooke Tadena

GREAT FINDS EDITOR Marluy Andrade EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Mieko Horikoshi CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matt Foster CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Sarah Ruppenthal, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Marluy Andrade, Lehia Apana, Edward Baldwin, Bob Bangerter, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Hudelson, Karim Iliya, Matt McDonald, Jason Moore, Mike Neubauer, Brad Paulson, Andrew Shoemaker, Janice Simeon, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr, Daniel Sullivan, Shannon Wianecki CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 GROUP PUBLISHER Catherine Westerberg ACCOUNT MANAGER Brooke Tadena SALES & PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Lisa

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NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION Mentoring young writers and sharing the natural world with keiki are two of my chief joys. —Shannon Wianecki First, I take care of myself—by surfing, reading, relaxing—so that I have energy to give to others. Second, I pick a few nonprofits each year and donate a small recurring monthly amount. Third, I learn about the issues that matter to me and try to share my knowledge with my loved ones. Lastly, I show up when help is needed, like at coastal cleanups or by testifying at council meetings.—Matt McDonald

Animals and the environment are my pet causes. My partner and I give regularly to the Maui Humane Society. Our dogs were adopted there. And living off the grid in Huelo means we’re not depleting natural resources. The magazine itself reaps that same good karma when I am working from home. That mantra extends to what you are holding now. Read the fine print below to find out about our sustainably produced paper.—John Giordani

Volunteering for a cause you believe in is extraordinarily fulfilling. On Maui, that can mean being out on the water or perched on a mountain, counting whales or plants. Investors say to invest in things you use. I say volunteer for the things you love.—Judy Edwards My wife Katherine and I sign up for recurring monthly gifts to charities that help provide food, shelter, reliable news, and legal protection. Currently we give to Hawaii Foodbank, Hawai‘i Public Radio and the American Civil Liberties Union . . . and are looking to add more.—Michael Haynes I love to donate groceries and help in the kitchen at St. Teresa’s Church in Kīhei. They provide hot, delicious meals for homeless and shut-in islanders.–Nancy Wenske

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I give back by donating my time and photography to causes and nonprofits that I feel passionately about. I recently returned from photographing for a conservation project on lions, leopards and cheetahs for the AfriCat Foundation in Namibia.—Daniel Sullivan

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, Eating & Drinking, and Queen Ka'ahumanu Center magazines. 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2018 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

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Ahh, the holidays! Time for joy and celebration. Translation: fasten your seatbelt—it’s going to be a wild ride. Here’s my to-do list: Engage husband in archeological dig to find the Xmas decorations, attempt the enigma of our “easy to assemble” tree, give up and bribe sympathetic friend to assemble aforementioned tree, clean the house, lose five pounds (make that ten), jam the calendar full of dinner parties that will put every ounce back on. Sigh. Shop for loose yet flattering festive clothing . . . deep sigh. Clean the house. Organize the staff party. Begin armistice negotiations on mutually acceptable holiday dinner dates with our married kids (who have in-laws who expect said offspring at their holiday dinners. The injustice!) And oh yes, all four of our boys and two of their spouses have birthdays between November 1 and December 14. Bake a cake, bake another. . . and our first grandchild is due mid-December, so let’s throw in a baby shower. Clean the house. But wait, Hannukah gets wedged in somewhere; let’s make latkes! (The miracle of Hannukah is that we survive!) Clean the house. Presents? Where do I start? Better yet, where do I end? I need a massage. Don’t misunderstand me. I love the holidays. I love that we all get together, that I get to cook and bake and laugh a lot. It’s the guesswork of what to get relatives and friends, muscling through crowds of holiday shoppers, wrapping the presents, decorating that diabolical tree. . . . Holy cannoli! Can’t we just give each other presents all year long? If you know your daughter-in-law would love that fringed paisley purse, why not just buy it then and there? I can imagine my phone call next April: “Hey, Katherine. Can you come by tomorrow evening? I have your Christmas present!” Now that sounds fun. Let’s just eat. That’s why I like Thanksgiving best; it’s about food and family, friends, and sweet memories. I remember one Thanksgiving when I was still in college. My mom and I had been cooking for hours and had just plunked ourselves down at the table where all the desserts were lined up. We were admiring our accomplishments and enjoying a well-earned cup of coffee, when Jason, Mother’s cat, jumped up on the table to join the party—and with feline savoir faire sashayed across two pumpkin pies, leaving little paw prints embedded in each. Mother and I were both so tired, neither of us did a thing. We just watched him, then turned to each other and burst into hysterics. “Put some whipped cream on it,” she advised, wiping a tear of laughter from her eye. “It will be fine.” If, like me, you could use a little backup for the chaos to come, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is here to help. This holiday issue is packed with ideas on the perfect gift for him or her. Our annual Shaka List offers twenty reasons to love Maui: a paean to the places, people, and experiences that make Maui nō ka ‘oi—the very best. (Shannon Wianecki has been compiling the Shaka List for twelve years. That makes over 300 cool discoveries you’ll find in our online archives!) And if you’re still experiencing holiday overload, we recommend a quiet morning filled with incandescent beauty, as Kyle Ellison shares some of the best vantages to watch a Maui sunrise—without the crowds. Feeling refreshed? Ready to tackle your own festivities? We’ve got just the recipe (well, recipes) in MNKO’s “Holiday Test Kitchen.” Taverna’s chef Roger Stettler shares an Italianinspired holiday dinner, complete with a heavenly dessert of zabaglione di grappa (a way better version of figgy pudding). And if your zabaglione is less than perfect, remember Mom’s advice for any holiday crisis, “Put some whipped cream on it. It will be fine.” It’s pretty much my mantra. Wishing you a holiday filled with friends, family, food, love, and a little whipped cream—for the memories.

MauiHealingRetreat.com Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI

A Little Whipped Cream . . .

talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

Story by Judy Edwards Photo by Ryan Siphers

Don’t Rock the Volcano I’ve worked for three national park sites on Hawai‘i Island and Maui. At each, rocks arrived in the mail, most with a letter wrapped carefully around them, profusely apologizing for their removal. This phenomenon has been known for decades as “Pele’s Curse,” which seems to work as well

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for those who pinch sand. Here is a classic example of curse fallout, courtesy of Snopes.com, which actually has an entry for “Pele’s Curse.” “The Los Angeles Times reported on the sad case of Timothy Murray, a 32-year-old who scooped some of the unusual black

sand from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park into a bottle and brought it back with him to Florida. Everything in his life immediately went into a nosedive: his pet died, his five-year relationship with a gal he was to marry ended, and the FBI arrested him in a computer copyright infringement case.”

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(Snopes.com is mum on whether Mr. Murray mailed the sand back and retrieved his life.) I call Rachel Hodara, archeologist and Cultural Resources Program manager at Haleakalā National Park, to ask whether this phenomenon has run its course. “It’s definitely still a thing,” she replies. Although the park sends out public service announcements to discourage rock removal, “we get about 100 packages a month, and usually every single day. We freeze the rocks for a month to kill any possible organisms, then rocks [from] the park get put back in the park and we take the boxes of sand down to the beach.” Before the overwhelm of Western contact, Hawaiians consulted kāhuna (priests) about moving pōhaku (stones), perceiving the islands as alive in every detail, and every detail essential to the vibrancy of the whole. Like so much of traditional Hawaiian life, this is a beautiful and thoughtful way to live with deep respect. It is, however, a nuanced and complex set of concepts, not easily

communicated, say, on a tour bus. And that has made me wonder, over the years, if it isn’t just easier to let the threat of a curse do the heavy lifting for what Hawaiians might term pono, or intrinsic rightness. “The ‘curse’ is [probably] the main reason people don’t take things,” says Hodara, “but we focus on respectful resource protection and the cultural perspective.” And, she reminds me, National Park Service laws prohibit taking plants, fish, wildlife, or rocks from parks. Kainoa Horcajo, Hawaiian cultural ambassador at the Grand Wailea Resort, unpacks it this way: “I just got rocks sent to the hotel with a letter that said, ‘I took these rocks on our vacation even though I was told not to, and my business has suffered ever since. Please return them to their right place so that my business may be restored.’ Security brings these things to me very carefully, with this idea that the rocks are cursed. And I say the rocks aren’t the problem, the person is the problem. We

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Opposite: Volcanic rocks of all shapes, sizes and colors are returned to the national parks every year, some accompanied by distraught letters begging forgiveness. Above: The sweep and majesty of the view from the summit of Haleakalā volcano seems otherworldly, and proves tempting to unethical rockhounds. Below: National park staff freeze returned rocks and sand bags to sterilize them of potential invasive species before they are replaced on park lands.

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love to assign blame externally, [but] the idea of a curse is such a western concept. “This thing that the western world regards as an inanimate, lifeless object, Hawaiian culture conceptualizes as a physical being that has been able to bind, to make solid, all of the energies from the very beginning of time. So, who is important here? Not us. The pōhaku.”

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

TALK STORY day in the life

Character Study

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal Photography by Mieko Horikoshi NAME: James Silvani TITLE: Your friendly neighborhood comic-book artist and illustrator TO INFINITY AND BEYOND! Wake up. Pour a cup of coffee. Draw. That’s a typical day in the life of James Silvani. “I couldn’t imagine doing anything else,” he says. “I get paid to be a kid again.” James works out of his Kīhei home in a cozy studio filled with comic-book memorabilia, Disney figurines, and a life-sized Darth Vader mannequin. He knows the contours and color palettes of nearly every Disney/Pixar, Muppets, Warner Bros., Marvel, and DC Comics character (and when new ones are debuted, he expands his repertoire accordingly). There’s a good chance you’ve seen his handiwork somewhere: Over the years, James has freelanced for several big-name publishers and entertainment companies, and since 2010, he’s illustrated every issue of the Darkwing Duck comicbook series. BOY WONDER: Like many preschoolers, threeyear-old James loved to doodle. But unlike most kids his age, he preferred to do it with a fine-tip, black-ink pen—the same kind he uses today—on a sheet of typing paper affixed to a clipboard. By the time he was five, James had sketched hundreds of four-panel comics chronicling his adventures with Allowishes, a trusty dinosaur sidekick, in his hometown of Laguna Beach, California. Continued on p. 24.

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Above: James converts his ink drawings into a digital format and colors them on his computer screen. Right: The picture of Snoopy drawn by “Peanuts” creator Charles Schulz.

PEANUT GALLERY When James was ten, his mother took him on an impromptu road trip to a Santa Rosa coffee shop where Charles Schulz frequently ate breakfast. That day, the “Peanuts” creator was sitting at his usual table with a plate of French toast. James shyly approached Schulz and asked if he’d look at a few of his drawings. “He told me, ‘These are really good. I think you have a future in this,’” James recalls. Then Schulz borrowed his pen and drew him a picture of Snoopy. The framed drawing now hangs on the wall of James’s studio. HOLY DINOSAURS, BATMAN! James’s boyhood fascination with dinosaurs has yet to go extinct. “I never grew out of it,” he laughs. So, when an editor at Penguin Random House called to solicit ideas for a new “how-to-draw” book, James pounced on the opportunity to author and illustrate a book about the prehistoric creatures. In 2014, Draw-A-Saurus: Everything You Need to Know to Draw Your Favorite Dinosaurs hit the shelves, and it’s racked up rave reviews ever since. WITH GREAT POWER COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY James doesn’t just sling ink in his studio all day. He’s a familiar face at national and international comic-book conventions, where he chats with fans and churns out commissions. He also draws free pictures for enthusiasts of all ages at the annual Free Comic Book Day events at the Kīhei Public Library and Maui Comics & Collectibles in Kahului. And what if he could tell his five-year-old self that he’d grow up to be a comic-book artist? “He would definitely think it was very cool,” James says. “And he’d probably say: ‘I told you so.’”

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Check out James’s work at SilvaniArt.com, Twitter.com/SilvaniArt, SilvaniArt.Tumblr.com, and Instagram.com/SilvaniArt. Watch James draw a dinosaur at MauiMagazine.net/ comic-artist. James’s book Draw-A-Saurus shows how to sketch the prehistoric creatures from scratch. Below: He’s also the artistic mastermind behind Disney’s “Darkwing Duck” comic-book series. Bottom left: With a few strokes of his pen, James can illustrate nearly every Disney/Pixar, Muppets, Warner Bros., Marvel, and DC Comics character.

SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

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Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by Edward Baldwin

TALK STORY in season

Love Is in the Air

Watch a short clip of a male pueo doing his mating dance at MauiMagazine.net/Hawaiian-owl.

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Autumn is a thrilling time for Hawaiian owls and those who admire them. Starting in November, the pueo, or short-eared Hawaiian owl, soars into the sky to dazzle prospective mates. Courting birds fly loops high above their nesting grounds. Hovering, almost shuddering, they clap their wings together, twirl, and dive. “That clapping behavior is distinctive,” says Dr. Melissa Price. The University of Hawai‘i professor studies the owls on O‘ahu, where the native birds are particularly vulnerable to habitat loss and introduced predators. Unlike most owls, pueo are diurnal. The golden-brown birds hunt by day for rodents and other small prey in wetlands and open fields. People often confuse pueo with the barn owl, an introduced species. Barn owls are nocturnal, larger than pueo, and have white, heart-shaped faces. Pueo play important roles in many mo‘olelo (stories). The most famous of these involves Kapo‘i, a poor Honolulu man who found a nest with seven eggs while gathering pili thatching for his house.

As Kapo‘i prepared to cook the eggs, an owl landed nearby and begged him to spare her children. Kapo‘i consented. The owl then instructed him to build a heiau (temple). When the king of O‘ahu learned of this unauthorized temple, he sent warriors to kill its creator. But Kapo‘i’s winged friend summoned owls from across the archipelago. They filled the sky and drove off the attackers. In a similar legend, Pueonuiokona, an owl deity from Maui, rescued two boys from a pursuing sorcerer at Keālia Pond. Mythical or not, owls are mesmerizing. “There’s something about owls that people just feel a connection to,” says Price. “Their faces are very expressive.” Pueo are particularly charismatic during mating season. Look for courtship displays at Kanahā Pond, where three pairs are known to nest. Within the pond’s sanctuary, the ground-nesting birds are protected from feral cats and mongooses. Their adorable, goggle-eyed owlets fledge by July. Help Price collect data; report any pueo sightings at PueoProject.com.

Join Maui Stargazing for a science-based sunset and stargazing tour at Haleakalā Summit. View deep space objects through Maui’s largest portable telescope to see the visible planets, nebulae and star clusters of the Milky Way and galaxies beyond!

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

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ADVENTURE

Our

5 favorite places

on Maui to watch the sunrise (that aren’t Haleakalā Crater)

Consider these words: “Maui” and “sunrise.” What pops into your head? If you’re like most people, odds are high that your next thought is “Haleakalā Crater.” The 10,023-foot summit has become world-famous for its morning light show—so much so that in 2017 the park service started limiting sunrise entry to 150 cars. The good news for visitors who aren’t able to get reservations is that other Maui locations can offer an experience as good—if not better. Bonus: You might even be the only one there. Story by Kyle Ellison | Photography by Matt McDonald, Daniel Sullivan & Mieko Horikoshi Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Even if you’ve lived on Maui for decades, there’s a decent chance you’ve never visited this spot. Owned by Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, but open to the public, the Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge is a 277-acre preserve on an undeveloped shore. Hawaiians knew this area as Kapoho, and along the flat, three-mile loop trail you can make out evidence of early habitation; some estimates date it as far back as 300 to 600 B.C.E. Though the refuge is located in Central Maui, the shoreline is oriented to the east, which makes it a prime area for seeing the day begin. At Kalae‘ili‘ili—a rock-strewn point that’s covered in driftwood and fringed by naupaka shrubs—you can watch seabirds winging toward the rising sun, and waves breaking on one of Maui’s largest offshore reefs. When the orange and red have given way to blue, explore the rest of the refuge by hiking the loop trail, and observe the spot where Waihe‘e Stream goes rushing into the sea. DRIVE TIME FROM West Maui, 50 minutes | South Maui, 35 minutes TIP: Access is via a short dirt road off Halewaiu Road. If it’s recently been raining, or the road is muddy, park where the dirt road meets the asphalt and make the trek in on foot. (Bring a flashlight!)

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MATT MCDONALD

Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge Central Maui

ADVENTURE

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Wai‘ānapanapa State Park East Maui J u s t m i n u t e s n o r t h o f H ā n a t o w n , Wai‘ānapanapa State Park is home to the jetblack sands of Pa‘iloa Beach. This rocky shore is a landscape of wonder, where craggy pinnacles rise from the sea, and noio (black noddies) circle above the formations. Sunrise amplifies the magic, painting the cobalt waters turquoise and bathing the shoreline in a brilliant green light as the first rays touch the plants that line this lush stretch of coast. A small sea cave on the southern end of the beach reveals itself at low tide, when you can watch from inside as the water takes on an electric shade of blue. In summer, the beach is the best place to observe the morning’s shifting palette, but in winter you’ll get a better view from the ancient King’s Trail. This coastal footpath was built in the seventeenth century, during the reign of Kiha-aPi‘ilani, who, I imagine, enjoyed the same show you can find here every morning. DRIVE TIME FROM West Maui, 2 hours 45 minutes South Maui, 2 hours 20 minutes TIP: To avoid having to wake up at 3 a.m. for the hours-long drive, consider staying in Hāna overnight. A bonus is the chance to explore the sights before the midday crowds arrive.

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Maui photographer Daniel Sullivan offers private, customized photography tours. Visit DanielSullivan. tours for information.

DANIEL SULLIVAN

ADVENTURE

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

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ADVENTURE

MATT MCDONALD

‘Ōhai Trail West Maui It takes two-and-a-half hours to drive from Kapalua to the summit of Haleakalā, but a fraction of that time to reach ‘Ōhai Trail, a moderately challenging, lightly visited, 1.2-mile loop. This is a landscape unlike any other on Maui, where kneehigh shrubs cover a rolling plain amid bluffs, and a deep blue ocean crashes against cliffs that drop vertically to the sea. Visit in winter, and you might see whales spouting in the first rays of light. A ten-minute walk leads to a perch facing east along the island’s north shore. Look up toward Haleakalā Crater (surprisingly visible from this West Maui site), and you’ll notice a caravan of headlights snaking along the road to the summit. At this early hour, those headlights on the

opposite side of the Central Valley will likely be the closest vehicles you can see. After sunrise, head to Nākālele Blowhole, two miles north, and have the place to yourself—but be cautious when hiking down from the road, and remember to view the blowhole from a safe distance. DRIVE TIME FROM Kā‘anapali, 30 minutes | South Maui, 1 hour 20 minutes TIP: South of Kahakuloa village, a section of Kahekili Highway (Route 340) narrows to a (barely) two-lane road that zigzags between sea cliff and drop-off—with no shoulder on either side. It’s safer to drive north on Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Route 30), past Kapalua and Honokōhau Bay, where Honoapi‘ilani and Kahekili highways meet. Continue 2.8 miles and you’ll reach Nākālele Blowhole. ‘Ōhai Trail is 2.1 miles further. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Hoapili Trail South Maui

Molokini Crater with Kai Kanani Sailing Charters

For a truly adventurous start to the day, grab a headlamp and hiking boots, and drive until you run out of road on the island’s southern coast. The Hoapili Trail is an ancient footpath where lava rocks the color of night hide pockets of soft white sand, and wild goats patrol a shoreline that was formed several centuries ago, the last time Haleakalā erupted and sent molten lava flowing down to the coast. In addition to likely having the entire trail to yourself, visiting at sunrise gives you an early jump on the hike—which is just what you want, since there isn’t any shade, and the area can be hot at midday. The trail leads past cultural sites and remnants of ancient fishing villages, and while you can hike here at any time of year, winter provides the best angle for watching the sun rise over the ebony terrain. It’s also the time when the Southern Cross (the constellation known to Hawaiians as Hānaiakamalama) hovers above the southern horizon in the hours just before dawn. After the morning hike, you can cool off with a dip at Mākena State Park, just a five-minute drive from the trailhead.

There’s only one way to see the sunrise from Molokini Crater, and that’s by waking in the hours before dawn and motoring there on a boat. The partially submerged caldera is a popular snorkeling destination, but it also provides a panoramic view of the sun illuminating—and eventually rising out of—Haleakalā. In summer the sun is tucked behind the volcano, but in winter it gradually moves south, slowly rising from the mountain’s lower flanks until, from Molokini, you’re nearly watching it emerge from the sea. While most morning snorkeling tours to Molokini depart from Mā‘alaea Harbor between 7 and 8 a.m., the Kai Kanani Sunrise Deluxe sails from Maluaka Beach in Mākena at 6:15 a.m. The ride is much shorter, and you’re out at the crater by 6:45 a.m.—perfect timing for greeting the sun—and beating all the other boats to this marine and seabird sanctuary. In winter, you may also see humpback whales spouting or waving a tail, and since you’re back on the beach before 10 a.m., there’s still plenty of time for another Maui adventure—or catching your afternoon flight. For information and reservations, visit KaiKanani.com.

DRIVE TIME FROM West Maui, 1 hour 10 minutes | Wailea, 25 minutes

DRIVE TIME FROM West Maui, 55 minutes | South Maui, 10 minutes

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DANIEL SULLIVAN

ADVENTURE

Sun Spots Up for more places to watch the sunrise? Check out these. East Maui Koki Beach Park, Hāna Kīpahulu campground, Haleakalā National Park (above) Central Maui Waihe‘e Ridge Trail Upcountry Skyline Trail (4x4 only)

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

West Maui Lahaina Pali Trail

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Kawika Burgess, CEO of Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, stands at the base of massive Lo‘alo‘a heiau, dwarfed by the scale of the centuries-old temple.

KYLE ELLISON

Maui’s Kaupō District lies on the dry southeastern slopes of Haleakalā, between Kīpahulu Forest Reserve and the sea. Kaupō Ranch comprises much of the region—apart from cattle and a handful of homesteads, the buckled landscape is virtually uninhabited. Yet Kaupō was once among the most populous regions on Maui. Planted in ‘uala (sweet potato), its nutrient-rich volcanic soil sustained a population of twenty-five to thirty thousand people. Archeologist Patrick Kirch is an expert on Maui’s ancient sites, particularly those around Kaupō. He says that at least twenty-four heiau are scattered throughout the ranch. Before western contact, these geometric platforms, erected from lava rock, were places of worship, honoring the culture’s pantheon of gods. And one, in particular, holds far more significance than the rest: Lo‘alo‘a, the third largest heiau on Maui, its eastern wall towering twenty feet high. It’s the sacred spot where, in the early 1700s, King Kekaulike prepared to wage war on Hawai‘i Island, whose peaks, thirty miles distant, you can see from the heiau’s walls.

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Written in Stone HAWAIIAN SOUL

A historic site yields clues to Maui’s ancient culture. STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE ELLISON

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

When Kekaulike came to power, he moved his royal court from Maui’s central valley out here to Kaupō, and while it’s thought Lo‘alo‘a already existed, it was Kekaulike who ordered it expanded to its present size. Kirch believes Lo‘alo‘a was a heiau luakini, a place where kāhuna (priests) offered sacrifices—sometimes human—to the war god, Kū, to ask for strength in battle. There are pits where bones may have been discarded, and depressions that could have been “image holes” into which an ‘ōhia tree carved in the image of Kū would be lowered to crush, or “consume” the offering. If Kirch is right, there’s something puzzling about Lo‘alo‘a: its orientation. Traditional heiau luakini face north, the direction of Kū. But Lo‘alo‘a looks northeast—a compass point more often associated with Lono, the god of agriculture and peace. “We’ve done very precise surveys of the heiau,” says Kirch, “and it’s within less than one degree of the rising of Makali‘i, which is the constellation Pleiades. This is significant because the priests of Lono carefully observed its rise to commence the annual Makahiki season, when Lono, patron [god] of the sweet-potato harvest, came into his own. Warring ceased, ho‘okupu [tax or tribute] were collected at the ahupua‘a shrines, and games and competitions took place.” Opinions vary as to why Kaupō’s heiau luakini seems to address a god of peace, but nearly everyone who visits can agree on one thing: It’s huge. What makes its scale even more impressive is the manpower it took to build it. While the rocks appear to be native to the region, they were likely transported here hand to hand in a lengthy human chain, since pre-contact Hawaiians had no metal, wheels, or horses for hauling. Scott Fisher, of the conservation nonprofit Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, believes Lo‘alo‘a demonstrates “the mana [power, spirit] of the chief who built it, because if you can leverage your personal mana to construct a heiau of that mass and substance, you’re the type of chief who can make things happen.” Despite its historical importance, Lo‘alo‘a fell out of use after Prince Liholiho assumed Hawai‘i’s throne as King Kamehameha II. Liholiho abolished the islands’ polytheistic religion and ended the kapu system of laws that had dictated ancient society. That took place in 1819, although Fisher has noticed in oral accounts from Nu‘u, just a few miles west of Kaupō, that villagers clung to traditional religion long after it ceased to be openly practiced elsewhere. From top right: Unmortised stones make for hazardous footing. On clear days, you can see Hawai‘i Island from Lo‘alo‘a’s summit—as did eighteenth-century king Kekaulike before waging war. Kimokeo Kapahulehua (right) applies chainsaw to invasive shrub as others haul the branches away. A plaque near the gated entrance marks Lo‘alo‘a’s 1963 designation as a National Historic Landmark. This aerial shot shows the heiau’s scale; it borders the ravine in the upper right corner.

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LEFT, FROM TOP: KYLE ELLISON; JAMIE WOODBURN; KYLE ELLISON; GOOGLE EARTH; RIGHT: JAMIE WOODBURN

HAWAIIAN SOUL

KYLE ELLISON

Archeologist Patrick Kirch (left) talks with Jamie Woodburn outside the protective fencing along the heiau’s eastfacing wall. Kirch’s knowledge was an invaluable resource during efforts to rescue Lo‘alo‘a from invasive plants that threatened its very existence.

Over the decades, Lo‘alo‘a succumbed to nonnative plants and feral ungulates that altered the landscape. In 1962 a National Park Service publication noted, “the heiau is in an excellent state of preservation,” but “difficult to reach because of the heavy growth of vegetation.” A cleanup likely occurred soon after, and in 1963, Lo‘alo‘a was officially listed as a National Historic Landmark. But by 2017, it was overgrown again; you could barely see the rocks for the weeds. Invasive trees like koa haole and Christmas berry insinuated their roots beneath the stones, creeping into crevices and threatening to undermine the whole structure. Hawaiian cultural practitioner Kimokeo Kapahulehua knew of the Kaupō site, as did his friend and longtime Maui resident Jamie Woodburn. The two men met with Patrick Kirch to learn about the heiau’s past, and how they could help save it. With permission from Kaupō Ranch, and the aid of fifty volunteers from the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society, the duo kicked off a cleanup effort that would last more than eighteen months. Kapahulehua soon had to leave the project, and for most of the time, the work was done by small groups of volunteers, but week after week, it was Woodburn and another friend, David Lawrence, who worked to rescue Lo‘alo‘a from the brush. “We went through a lot of chainsaw chains,” Lawrence says with a laugh. “What’s important is that we’ve eliminated the plants that would have eventually destroyed it.” So what spurred this handful of friends to tackle such an ambitious and arduous project? Woodburn doesn’t cite a specific reason, but having spent so many years in Kaupō, becoming, himself, a student of the region’s history, he sees these efforts as a way to give back to a place that’s given him so much. He says, simply, “This was the right thing to do.” Standing atop the lofty structure, where the view stretches up into Manawainui Valley and down to the ocean below, removes any doubt

that Lo‘alo‘a was a place of importance and power. “If you look at it for long enough,” Woodburn tells me, “you start to make out where different artisans worked on different sections of the walls.” I’ve visited a lot of heiau in my life, and it’s the first time I’ve considered these temples as built not by workmen stacking rocks, but by craftsmen. Then again, I’ve never devoted hundreds of hours to clearing brush from ancient walls and a platform whose unmortised rocks make for wobbly, precarious footing. Maui historian Andrew Walmisley has spent time here, and calls the heiau “hauntingly beautiful.” “Haunting” may be the operative word. Kaupō Ranch manager Bobby Ferreira tells me there’s so much energy around the stones that horses have refused to get near it. Enlightenment may be Lo‘alo‘a’s greater power. Maui youth have participated in cleanups here, and Jimmy Haynes, a co-owner of Kaupō Ranch who has Hawaiian lineage, sees bringing those young people to the heiau as “an opportunity to show [them] their past and the structures their civilization built. It’s a blessing to be able to share that.” Respectful of its cultural heritage, the volunteers begin every visit with proper protocol: requesting permission before entering the sacred site. The day I visit, Kawika Burgess, CEO of Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, makes that request in a Hawaiian chant. While HILT isn’t directly involved with privately owned Kaupō Ranch, the conservation nonprofit oversees similar projects around the state. “It’s vitally important that we conserve the most significant historical and cultural sites,” Burgess says. “If we lose or diminish the natural beauty and the storied places that sustain our culture, we lose the essence of Hawai‘i.” Lo‘alo‘a heiau is on private land and is not accessible to the public. If you’re interested in learning about ancient sites in the areas surrounding Kaupō, contact Hawaiian Islands Land Trust about their guided hikes at nearby Nu‘u Refuge. HILT.org; 808-791-0729 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

2018

LIST Story by Shannon Wianecki

Māui, the demigod for whom our island was named, is an epic hero whose feats surpass those of Odysseus and Hercules. With his magic fishhook, he heaved the Hawaiian Islands from the sea, snared the sun, and discovered the secret to making fire. This champion and trickster belongs not only to Hawai‘i, but to all of Polynesia. Tales of his strength and wit bind our distant island nations together. Maui, the island, is worthy of such a divine namesake. This charmed place feels like the biblical land of milk and honey—or, in the Hawaiian vernacular, ‘āina momona: land that is sweet, rich and fat. To keep it this way, we need to cherish and protect its best parts. We might do well to emulate our resident demigod’s daring and ingenuity! Every year, we celebrate those who do exactly that: the people, places, plants, animals, traditions, and initiatives that make Maui nō ka ‘oi—the best. Let this year’s litany inspire you with love for your native or adopted home. As our state motto says: Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina i ka pono. The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.

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MAUI STYLE

SHAKA [shah-kah] noun 1. Extension of thumb and pinkie to form a “Y”; 2. A gesture conveying the quintessential island greeting, a sign of friendly intent. (See also: “Hang loose.”)

Maui Ocean Center’s dome theater

Maui’s award-winning aquarium is about to debut a novel exhibit: a state-of-the-art 3D digital theater. Visitors will be able to step inside the forty-foot-tall inflatable globe to immerse themselves in the world of the Hawaiian humpback whales, travel along with their migration, and view thrilling footage of a breach from below the surface. Photo courtesy of Maui Ocean Center/Karim Iliya

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

MAUI STYLE

Rainbow Bridge

Halemau‘u Trail winds through subalpine forest before dropping into the heart of Haleakalā National Park. Just before the descent, a narrow rock passageway known as Rainbow Bridge offers a majestic panorama. On clear days, hikers can gaze down into the dormant volcano on one side and across Ko‘olau Gap on the other. On cloudy days, rainbows are a fine consolation. Photo by Forest & Kim Starr

Baldwin piano

Lei by Hawaii Flora + Fauna

Featured in The New York Times Style Magazine, Lauren Shearer’s exquisite garlands are the ultimate fashion accessory. The Maui-born and -raised artist turns every available flower, seed, and leaf into a creative expression of beauty. Her wilder impulses even led her to string centipedes and honeybees into lei! Photo courtesy of Hawaii Flora + Fauna

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After an upright piano mysteriously appeared in the Baldwin Beach pavilion this spring, impromptu concerts became the norm. Someone even tunes the instrument—which is, coincidentally, a Baldwin. One morning a shirtless bodysurfer improvised a string of concertos. A jogger retrieved a violin from her car and joined in for a performance worthy of Carnegie Hall. Photo by Shannon Wianecki

Obon at Rinzai Zen Mission

During the summer-long Obon festival, Japanese temples across Hawai‘i honor departed ancestors with nighttime celebrations. At the Pā‘ia Rinzai Zen Mission, Maui’s only Okinawan temple, two shaggy shisa (lion-dogs) start the festivities off with a bang. Shakuhachi (Japanese flute) players perform in a yagura (tower), while dancers in colorful kimono circle it gracefully—and invite you to join. Photo courtesy of Rinzai Zen Mission

Archie Kalepa

This real-life Maui superman was among the first tow-in surfers to brave seventy-foot-tall waves at Pe‘ahi and the first to stand-up paddle solo across the Moloka‘i Channel. The former lifeguard captain developed innovative ocean-rescue techniques and saved lives (including one dog) during 1992’s Hurricane Iniki. Kalepa sailed aboard the voyaging canoes Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa on multiple ocean crossings. Still, this lifelong waterman says that one of his most rewarding accomplishments was the recent restoration of his family’s lo‘i kalo (taro patch). After 130 years, the mountain stream flows through the lo‘i again, feeding the taro, the community, and the culture. Photo by Jason Moore

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Makawao Union Church

Celebrated Hawai‘i architect C.W. Dickey designed this stone-and-stained-glass sanctuary in 1917. Today, its congregation welcomes the community for more than Sunday worship. The majestic church and adjoining theater host tango classes, twelve-step meetings, graduation ceremonies, and Tibetan-flute performances. Photo by Bob Bangerter

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Camellia Seed Shop

Whatchu like: Lemon li hing mui? Rocksalt plum? This tiny crack-seed store at Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center sells old-time treats the old-fashioned way, from shiny glass storage jars. Photo by John Giordani

Annual Christmas Plant and Pottery Sale at UH–Maui College Each holiday season, students of agriculture offer the fruits of their labor—bright poinsettias and rare native plants they’ve cultivated— while their counterparts in the art department sell one-of-a-kind ceramics.

Basking turtles

Over the last decade, Maui’s green sea turtles have resumed an ancient ritual: coming ashore to catch some zzzs. Turtles can be seen on a dozen Maui beaches basking in the sun— and in the attention of appreciative beachgoers. Reminder: Disturbing sea turtles is against the law. Stay at least ten feet from the snoozing reptiles. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker

Hau

Polynesian voyagers carried the tree hibiscus to Hawai‘i in their canoes. Its octopus-like branches yield luminous fiber when stripped and soaked, a perfect material for hula skirts and cordage. At dawn, lovely hau flowers bloom bright yellow; by dusk they’ve turned crimson and fallen. Photo by Forest & Kim Starr

‘Alalā recovery

Call them Lazarus. Hawaiian crows were extinct in the wild. Key word: were. For decades, biologists at the Keauhou (Hawai‘i Island) and Maui Bird Conservation Centers labored to revive this charismatic species in captivity. Last year, the Keauhou facility released eleven ‘alalā into an East Hawai‘i forest. Maui’s crows still live in aviaries, but play a critical role in safeguarding the species’ survival. Drive up Olinda Road to hear them squawking and serenading one another.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

13 Pinoy power!

In the past few years, Maui’s Filipino entrepreneurs have led a culinary charge, reinventing top restaurant kitchens and opening exciting new eateries. Two of our favorite Pinoy power couples: Sheldon and Janice Simeon of Tin Roof in Kahului, and Lineage in The Shops at Wailea; and Desiree and Frank Parada of Donut Dynamite. Hot tip: Get to “Madame Donut’s” Wailuku bakeshop no later than 8 a.m., before the sweet potato/poi and maple/bacon donuts made with brioche dough disappear. Mabuhay! Illustrations by Matt Foster

14 Artists in the house

The Hui’s Artist in Residence program creates opportunities to interact with stellar talent from Hawai‘i and beyond. In 2011, Patrick Dougherty enlisted the community in the creation of a whimsical structure built out of invasive strawberry guava branches. In 2016, James Bailey asked local schoolkids to help him drive a steamroller over massive linoleum prints. This summer, Mexican graffiti artist Mazatli turned one of the Hui’s private rooms into an astonishing commentary on ‘alalā, rats, and colonialism. Check it out—the exhibit will remain for one year. Photo courtesy of Hui No‘eau/Bryan Berkowitz

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Patsy Mink

This trailblazer championed the rights of women, children, immigrants, and minorities throughout her life. After being denied admission to medical school due to her sex, she took up law. In 1964, she became the first woman of color elected to Congress. There she sponsored the Title IX Act, which guarantees gender equality on academic campuses. Following its passage, the number of women in college sports increased by 450 percent. In 1972, she ran for U.S. President. Not bad for a plucky girl from Pā‘ia! “If to believe in freedom and equality is to be a radical, then I am a radical.”—Patsy Takemoto Mink

Kealopiko

MAUI STYLE

In 2006, three wāhine akamai (smart ladies) founded this company that’s part fashion, part education and advocacy. Every dress, pareu, aloha shirt, and onesie mixes chic design with ancient wisdom, and features native Hawaiian ferns, fish, or flowers paired with poetic snippets of ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i, the Hawaiian language. Best of all? The upscale ALL Aloha line is 100 percent made on Moloka‘i. Mo’ bettah, indeed. Photo courtesy of Kealopiko

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Aloha Mixed Plate’s imu-roasted beet salad

In a moment of genius, the chefs at Aloha Mixed Plate loaded beets into their neighbor’s imu, or underground oven. The root vegetables came out juicy and red, scented with banana leaf and smoke—the foundation of a delectable salad. Photo courtesy of Aloha Mixed Plate

Grow Some Good school gardens

Volunteers planted a small garden at Kihei Elementary ten years ago; it’s since bloomed into an islandwide movement that gets kids elbow-deep into growing and cooking their own fruits and veggies. Photo courtesy of Grow Some Good

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MAUI STYLE

Ho–ku–lani Holt

She became a kumu hula (hula teacher) at age nineteen, and has never stopped sustaining and sharing Hawaiian ‘ike (knowledge). She presides with the grace and gravity of a queen over Maui’s most important cultural events, advocates for Native Hawaiian students and ideas at UH–Maui College, and serves as keeper of arcane wisdom. Holt is a conduit between Maui’s ancient traditions and its dynamic future. Photo by Sue Hudelson

Ma–kena State Park

Dolphins often cruise by Maui’s biggest beach, where skimboarders catch air, and hummocks of soft sand muffle the sound of slapping waves. Community groups routinely fight to keep this golden treasure wild. We’re so grateful. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

A labor of love: Husband-and-wife team Alex and Andrea de Roode spend hours harvesting tea by hand on their organic farm, gently plucking the upper leaf bud and top two leaves of mature Camellia sinensis plants.

STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON MOORE & BRAD PAULSON

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ISLAND BUSINESS Cacao is another plant showing potential as a commercial crop. It takes up to five years for a cacao tree to bear the colorful, football-sized pods that contain the seeds from which chocolate is made.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Master distiller Bill Scott (left) and company founder and president Shay Smith are shaking (and stirring) things up at Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm and Distillery. Below: The stateof-the-art facility uses solar panels to power 100 percent of its operations.

GROWING AGAINST THE GRAIN Inspiration comes in many forms, and for Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm and Distillery founder and CEO Shay Smith, it was an ice-cold pau hana (after work) cocktail. Fifteen years ago, Shay was sipping a vodka soda as he mulled over ideas for a homegrown agricultural product that would succeed in the global market. That’s when he realized the answer was right in front of him. “I wanted to make something that could compete with Grey Goose.” He did. Hawaii Sea Spirits’ Ocean Organic Vodka is now sold in all fifty states and Ontario, Canada. The spirit has earned recognition for its ingredients, taste, and distinctive orb-shaped bottle—inspired by antique glass fishing floats and angled to mimic Earth’s axis. (Customers send Shay photos of bottles cleverly repurposed as fish bowls, planters, centerpieces, even a snowman.) It didn’t happen overnight. Soon after settling on vodka for his agricultural venture, Shay phoned master distiller Bill Scott to propose a then-novel idea: distilling vodka from organic sugarcane

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and blending it with mineral-rich water pumped from depths of 3,000 feet off Hawai‘i Island’s Kona coast. Conventional wisdom has it that rum is made from sugarcane; vodka from potatoes, corn or rye. But vodka can be made from practically any starch- or sugar-rich plant—grapes, soybeans, even milk whey. (Shay considered distilling taro, but after unsuccessful attempts, opted for sugarcane.) “It was a balance of science and practicality,” he says. “I knew it could be done, and we would be using ingredients that were right at our fingertips.” After a few trial batches and taste tests, Shay and Bill debuted the first bottle of Ocean Organic Vodka in 2006. Today, Shay’s eightyacre organic farm grows more than thirty varieties of sugarcane, all hand-harvested at maturity, processed in the site’s solar-powered distillery, and blended with deep-ocean water that is organically purified and desalinated through a natural filtration process that

COURTESY OF HAWAII SEA SPIRITS

Ask anyone who rises before dawn to harvest, or spends long evenings poring over production spreadsheets, and they’ll tell you farming isn’t for the faint of heart—but it takes heart to succeed. On Maui, sugar and large-scale pineapple plantations may be a thing of the past, but new, smaller farms are cropping up to take their place. In this holiday season, we take a look at four whose products are little indulgences meant to be shared. But that doesn’t make them frivolous. These farmers, too, share common ground: Their stories reflect the entrepreneurial spirit that may very well keep agriculture alive on Maui.

ISLAND BUSINESS

Top right: Daniel O’Doherty’s to-die-for title is vice-president of chocolate operations. To his right is CEO Gunars Valkirs. Middle: Husking the hard-shelled pods is work. Inside each pod, a sweet white pulp envelops dozens of seeds, or “beans.” Bottom: Thousands of cacao trees already grow on the fifty-acre Lahaina farm.

eliminates sodium, but hangs on to minerals like potassium, calcium and magnesium. Today the company is enjoying success, and recently added a new spirit, Deep Island Hawaiian Rum, to great acclaim. Shay admits it didn’t come easy. “Being an entrepreneur is not a nine-to-five job, it’s more like 24/7. You live it, breathe it. But it’s incredibly rewarding.”

TOP RIGHT: JASON MOORE; ALL OTHERS BRAD PAULSON

Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm and Distillery 4051 ‘Ōma‘opio Rd., Kula | 808-877-0009 OceanVodka.com | Info@OceanVodka.com | Facebook and Instagram: @OceanVodka Open daily, 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tours are given every half-hour, with the last tour at 4 p.m.

RAISING THE BAR Could cacao be Maui’s next signature crop? Gunars Valkirs thinks so. “There’s an opportunity to create a market that will rival the wine industry.” Given that Hawai‘i is the only state in the U.S. whose climate is suitable for growing cacao, it’s not far-fetched to think that commercial production on Maui could become a Napa Valley-like phenomenon. Theobroma cacao (genus Theobroma translates as “food of the gods”) was introduced to Hawai‘i in the mid-nineteenth century. But unlike sugarcane and pineapple, it fizzled as an agricultural venture. Now cacao is making a comeback in the Aloha State. Native to South America, the plants thrive in hot, humid climates; the warmer temperatures also aid in the fermentation of harvested cocoa beans. Gunars became a cacao farmer by accident. The retired biotech entrepreneur has had a long-standing interest in agriculture— and he’d always had a sweet tooth. “I love chocolate,” he laughs. “I eat it every day.” Nine years ago, after a chance conversation with a chef about cacao, Gunars decided to take a closer look at growing the plant. He found a lone cacao tree growing on a private lot near the old Pioneer Mill in Lahaina. The owner gave him several pods to plant at his Kapalua home. His interest piqued, Gunars Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Left: In addition to Camellia sinensis, Alex and Andrea grow and harvest māmaki. Native to the Hawaiian Islands, the stingless nettle is revered for its healing properties. Right: From harvest to cup—dried tea leaves are black against the raw green of newly harvested leaves. Maui Tea Farm pouches are filled with custom-blended infusions. Beginning in 2019, the farm will host custom experiences for tea aficionados.

teamed up with cacao specialist Daniel O’Doherty to grow more trees as part of a field trial conducted by the University of Hawai‘i. “It started as a hobby, but it took on a life of its own,” Gunars laughs. So much, in fact, that in 2013, he launched Maui Ku‘ia Estate Cacao, a fifty-acre farm in the Ku‘ia ahupua‘a (Hawaiian land division). He plants ten acres at a time, and today has more than 5,000 trees on twenty acres; the first ten acres were harvested in April. Beginning in February 2019, you can purchase Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate online or at the Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate Factory in the Lahaina Business Park. The facility will house an FDA-certified factory, commercial kitchen, retail store, and open-air pavilion. Maui Ku‘ia Estate’s dark-milk and dark chocolates are crafted from single-origin cacao from Costa Esmeraldas, Ecuador, but as his trees mature, Gunars says the chocolate will soon be made exclusively with Maui-grown and -harvested cacao. And the sweetest part? Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate will donate 100 percent of its net profits to Maui charities and nonprofit community organizations. Maui Ku‘ia Estate MauiChocolate.com | Facebook & Instagram: @MauiChocolate Visit the website for details about Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate’s Ku‘ia Club. Members may order in advance of the store’s opening, and will have first access to limited-edition chocolates.

READING THE TEA LEAVES When Alex and Andrea de Roode bought a former protea farm four years ago, they had their work cut out for them. At the time, the nearly two-acre property on the slopes of Haleakalā was choked with tall weeds and dense clusters of wattle trees. Several weeks later, the couple had cleared enough space to plant Camellia sinensis, commonly referred to as a “tea shrub” or “tea tree.” But Andrea calls it the “superhero plant” for its biological and chemical versatility. Indigenous to China, Camellia sinensis is a hardy evergreen whose glossy chartreuse leaves and upper leaf buds can produce an entire menu of teas: white, yellow, green, oolong, and black. If left unchecked, the tree can reach heights of twenty-five feet. At the de Roodes’ Maui Tea Farm, the plants are waist-high and in neat rows. The farm is a relatively new venture, but Alex and Andrea are no novices. Both are lifelong tea drinkers, and while living on

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the mainland, they became steeped in the thriving tea scenes of Canada and Portland, Oregon. There, Alex says, they realized a tea renaissance was underway. The couple decided to bring tea culture to Maui. In 2010, they launched PONO Infusions, a company that sources wholesale teas and tisanes (beverages made with herbs and flowers) and customblended infusions. They began growing and harvesting tea plants in a small backyard nursery, but had their sights set on starting a farm in Kula, which had the right climate and soil conditions. Today, Camellia sinensis fills a half-acre of the de Roodes’ nearly two-acre farm; they plan to have a full acre planted by the end of 2019. In addition to Camellia sinensis, the couple grows caffeinefree tisane herbs, Hawaiian medicinal plants (including māmaki and ko‘oko‘olau), and a variety of vegetables and fruit trees. After every harvest, Alex and Andrea roll up their sleeves and process the tea: withering, rolling, oxidizing, and drying the leaves. The level of oxidation determines whether the tea will be white, yellow, green, oolong, or black. It’s a delicate, time-consuming process, and one that often has to be squeezed into a weekend. Both Alex and Andrea have full-time jobs: She is a registered dietitian; he’s a county planner and teaches sustainability courses at the University of Hawai‘i–Maui College. “We’ve given up a lot of our free time to make this happen,” Andrea says. “But it’s 100 percent worth it.” Maui Tea Farm Info@PonoInfusions.com | 855-766-6808 | MauiTeaFarm.com | Facebook, Twitter & Instagram: @MauiTeaFarm Maui Tea Farm offers custom tea experiences for groups of five to twenty people.

EVERYTHING’S COMING UP DAHLIAS When she was a kid, Ashley O’Colmain decided she would be a farmer someday. The only hitch? “I didn’t know what I’d grow,” she laughs. “There were too many options.” So she dabbled, planting and harvesting a variety of flowers and vegetables in backyard gardens. And years later, when her parents bought a parcel of arable land in Makawao, Ashley finally had a chance to fulfill her childhood dream. She mulled over the

ISLAND BUSINESS

possibilities, and says lettuce, carrots, and kale made the shortlist. An Instagram photo changed her mind. Ashley came across a social-media site for a family-run flower farm in Washington State. She says a single image of a pink dahlia took her breath away. “That’s when it clicked,” she recalls. “I love growing flowers, giving flowers to people, and I knew it was something people would buy.” In that moment, the idea for Petaloom Floral Co. began to blossom. Starting a commercial flower farm from scratch is no small feat, so in 2017, Ashley signed up for the Hawai‘i Farmers Union United’s Farm Apprentice Mentoring Program, which provides specialized support for start-ups using regenerative agriculture techniques. She learned how to navigate the process of finding land, develop a farming portfolio, and ultimately build a successful agricultural enterprise. Ashley teamed with her sister, Lisa, to plant the colorful dahlias that now bloom on the family’s property. Apart from the signature (and decidedly photogenic) dahlias, the farm has other organically grown flowers, including zinnias, lilies, ranunculus, sunflowers and rudbeckia. When it comes to year-round production, Ashley says there was some initial trial and error, but now she’s well versed in life cycles and growing seasons. “It’s a good thing I like spreadsheets,” she laughs. In the space of a year, Ashley and Lisa have gone from selling sunflowers on the side of the road to supplying bouquets and floral centerpieces for bridal showers, weddings, graduations, and photo shoots. The sisters also teach lei po‘o (garlands worn on the head) and flower-arranging workshops. Every Saturday morning, they sell their organic bouquets at the Upcountry Farmers Market, where they also started a crowd-favorite “build-your-own-bouquet” bar. They plan to build a workshop and event space at the farm in the near future. “It takes a lot of passion to work this hard,” Ashley says. “But I love growing flowers. They bring joy to so many people—it’s very fulfilling to be a part of that.” Petaloom Floral Co. Info@PetaloomFloralCo.com | PetaloomFloralCo. com | Facebook and Instagram: @PetaloomFloralCo

Top: Lisa (left) watches as Ashley cuts dahlias for a bouquet. On any given day, you’ll find the siblings in the family’s garden, planting, watering, harvesting—and yes, stopping to smell the flowers. Above: With their long, sturdy stems and showy blooms, dahlias are perfect for arrangements. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

We’ve got the goods on where savvy Santas shop.

RING IN THE NEW

Ocean Jazz shapes real ‘opihi shells to fit into recycled 14k gold-filled rings. And because no two shells are the same, it’s truly a one-of-a-kind gift. $60 each; buy four, get one free. Find them at Kula Botanical Gardens, 638 Kekaulike Ave., Kula; or online at OceanJazzMaui.com.

SHE’LL SIMPLY MELT

Ola’s coconut body butter combines organic virgin coconut oil, avocado oil, aloe vera, and macadamia and cocoa seed butters—all infused with a signature blend of organic plant hydrosols. 6 fl. oz. for $29 at LELE by Adelina a Mare, 20 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 793-2569, Rachel@ AdelinaAMare.com

COLOR HER HAPPY

ALWAYS A GOOD TIME

Too Faced creates its Chocolate Gold Eyeshadow Palette with real gold for a high-shine finish, paired with rich mattes for coffee-to-cocktails wear. The entire palette is infused with skin-loving cocoa powder for a decadent chocolate scent. Ulta Beauty, 66 Ho‘okele St., #1110, Kahului, 868-5698, Ulta.com

Na Hoku’s Le Vian Aloha Collection Sunset Palm Watch has 1.07 carats (total weight) of chocolate diamonds, precision Swiss quartz movement, and genuine sapphire crystal. $2,500. At Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 210 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 800-260-3912, NaHoku.com

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THE AAHS HAVE IT

Give her the gift of bliss: an appointment at Green Ti Massage. Their offerings— from lomi lomi to shiatsu to aromatherapy—will help her de-stress and unwind. Gift certificates available. $80 for 50 minutes; $120 for 80 minutes. 40 N. Market St., Wailuku, 242-8788, GreenTiMaui.com

TOP RIGHT: MARLUY ANDRADE; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

THE TIME IS RIPE

Aranáz’s handmade tote has embroidered watermelons that let her carry summer with her everywhere she goes. $218 at Holiday & Co, 3681 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-1470, HolidayAndCoMaui.com

GREAT FINDS COMPILED BY MARLUY ANDRADE

WRAPPED AROUND YOUR FINGER

Tiki Da Kine’s tako rings weigh in at 100 grams of sterling silver. Jewelry designer Maui Hal uses a 30-step process to handcraft each ring, and no two are exactly alike. Size 12 or custom sizes, $695. Stop by the Tiki Da Kine booth at the Maui Swap Meet on Saturdays between 7 a.m. and 1 p.m. at UH-Maui College, 310 W. Kā‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 868-9198, Etsy.com/Shop/TikiDaKine

KNIFE, SHIRT & RING: MARLUY ANDRADE; MUGS: ROB HAWES; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

NO PRESENT LIKE THE TIME

A simple take on the classic timeteller: The Horse’s The Original watch has a sandblasted, matteblack stainless steel case, a cool grey face, minimalist markers, and a premium tan leather band designed to patina handsomely with wear. Find it at Driftwood, 1152 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 573-1152, DriftwoodMaui.com

I TIKI YOU WILL LIKE IT

GOOD POINT Maui knife maker Sean O’Hanlon is the creative mastermind behind this handmade dive knife, which is built to last with a titanium blade, koa-wood handle, brass pins, and waterproof sheath. $250 at Goin Left, 143 Dickenson St., #101, Lahaina, 868-3805, GoinLeft.com

COOL FIND

With its dent- and ding-resistant stainless-steel construction and no-sweat design, the YETI Rambler one-gallon jug is practically indestructible—and keeps beverages ice cold or piping hot. 18”x8”, $129.99 at Hi-Tech Surf Sports, 425 Koloa St., #107, Kahului, 877-2111, SurfMaui.com

Ten years ago, Maui ceramist Rob Hawes made his first tiki mug, and he’s been firing them up ever since. Prices and sizes vary. Find them at Beachbumz Tiki & Gift Shop in the Kalama Village Marketplace, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-3367, TikiRob.com

FINE PRINT

Nothing says cool and comfortable quite like a vintage aloha shirt. Each 100 percent cotton button-down shirt is a stylish staple, and each is one of a kind. $48 at Indigo. 149 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9199, Indigo Paia.com

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

For Keiki CRUMB AND GET IT

Maui Manjookie’s assorted gift boxes are packed with flavors like azuki bean, liliko‘i-pineapple, guava-apricot, lima bean, cranberry, and coconut. These hand-rolled, fruit-filled and fresh-baked pastries are made from scratch on Maui in small batches, so supplies are limited. $10 per box. Call to order. 343 Hanamau St., Kahului, 893-2000, MauiManjookies.net

STUCK ON NATURE

Advance Wildlife Education’s sticker sheets and coloring books feature creatures like the Hawaiian monk seal and Hawai‘i state fish humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a. One sheet $4, book with one sheet $12. Sales benefit local conservation nonprofits like Project S.E.A.-Link. Maui Swap Meet, Saturdays, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. UH–Maui College, 310 W. Kā‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 626-487-1612, AdvanceWildlifeEducation.org

This 18” mermaid doll makes quite a splash. She has moveable arms and legs, and eyes that close when you lay her down. She’ll swim right into your little mermaid’s heart. $75 at the Swap Meet at Paia Bay, 137 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 446-5730, SwapMeetAtPaiaBay.com

TRESS IN STYLE

Lily & Momo’s colorful and stylish handmade hair clips bring an island twist to girls’ accessories. $11.95 at Collections, 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 5720781, Collections MauiInc.com

SHORT AND SWEET

Mayoral’s colorful swim trunks are perfect for a day at the beach or pool. Available in sizes 2–8. $30 at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792, NuageBleu. com

PAGING ALL LITTLE ONES

A playful take on the classic lullaby, Hush Little Keiki introduces youngsters to the natural wonders of the Hawaiian Islands. $14.95 at Barnes & Noble, Maui Ocean Center and Maui Thing, and through BookProject888@gmail.com, BessPress.com/Childrens-Books-Products/Hush-Little-Keiki.

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MIDDLE (2): MARLUY ANDRADE; TOP & BOTTOM LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

WHAT A DOLL!

GREAT FINDS

For the Home PUZZLE PIECE

“Shiner” Bruce Whitaker carved hidden meanings into his sculpture “Two Extremes: Eagle and Whale.” “I have a two-year limit. If you don’t figure it out by then, I will be happy to tell you.” 59”x21”, $3,800. Visit his booth at the Maui Swap Meet, Saturdays, 7 a.m.–1 p.m., at UH–Maui College, 310 W. Kā‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, ShinerBW@ yahoo.com, ShinerBruceWhitaker.com

URCHIN MESSAGE

Shaped like a collector urchin, Two’s Company’s ceramic jar holds its own when it comes to under-the-sea charm. $40 at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHUE.com

NEW WAVE

The quintessential pillow for any self-respecting surf nut, Aloha to Zen’s hand-sewn, 100 percent cotton pillow pays homage to Hawai‘i’s surf culture and waveriding legends like Duke Kahanamoku, Gerry Lopez and Rell Sunn. 20”x20”, $167 at Goin Left, 143 Dickenson St., #101, Lahaina, 868-3805, GoinLeft.com

TOWEL: CONN BRATTAIN; BOTTOM (2): MARLUY ANDRADE; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

WEAVE GOT SOMETHING SPECIAL

The Maui Mercer’s one-of-a-kind handwoven towels are 100 percent mercerized cotton and oh so soft. Hand towel, 18”x30”, $39 at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8899, PearlButik.com

OFF THE WALL

The perfect painting could be right under your nose. Each 4”x4” ceramic-tile coaster is a miniature reproduction of Makawao artist Jordanne Weinstein’s evocative island scenes. Set of four $64, or $19 each, at Jordanne Gallery & Studio, 3625 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 563-0088, JordanneFineArt.com

INTO THE WOODS

O‘ahu woodworker Pat Kadooka designs his handcrafted koa desk accessories to enhance the office, at work or at home. Stapler $66, tape dispenser $62 at Maui Hands, 1169 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-2008, MauiHands.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

GREAT FINDS

For Goodness' Sake Six ways to give back!

MAUI HUMANE SOCIETY

UNDA KAVA 808

Through cultural sports and friendly competition, Unda Kava 808 helps to bridge the educational and social gaps facing local youth. In February, Maui’s intermediateschool students will participate in Makahiki games, an ancient tradition honoring Lono, Hawaiian god of peace and agriculture. Volunteers are needed to prepare equipment for kōnane (Hawaiian checkers), ‘ulu maika (bowling), ‘o‘ō ihe (spear throwing) and other games. 3933424, Ikaika@MakahikiGames.com, UndaKava808.Weebly.com

COMMON GROUND COLLECTIVE

Put your green thumb to good use with this nonprofit whose services promote economic and educational opportunities and food security in Maui County. Volunteers help turn backyards into mini farms, harvest fruits and vegetables, and teach homeowners the fundamentals of DIY farming. 50 Ahualani Pl., Makawao, 509-851-8300, Info@CommonGroundCollective.com, CommonGroundCollective.com

MĀLAMA MAUI NUI

HALE MAKUA HEALTH SERVICES

Ask anyone who lends a hand at Hale Makua’s Wailuku and Kahului long-term-care facilities, and they’ll tell you a seemingly simple act can bring immeasurable joy. Volunteers serve meals, drive residents to and from activities, read aloud, play games, give manicures, or just lend an ear. 871-9218, Danielles@HaleMakua.org,

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Nonprofit Mālama Maui Nui engages residents and visitors alike in litter prevention, recycling and beautification efforts across Maui County. Volunteers are always needed to lend a hand for cleanups at a beach, park, or in your neighborhood. The nonprofit provides trash pickers, gloves, bags, buckets, traffic vests and other necessary supplies—and guidance, too. 877-2524 ext. 105, Volunteer@MalamaMauiNui.org, MalamaMauiNui.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FOREST & KIM STARR; MAUI HUMANE SOCIETY; KRISTA WOODWARD; MĀLAMA MAUI NUI; HALE MAKUA; UNDA KAVA 808

KANAHĀ POND WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

The 143-acre sanctuary is home to two endangered bird species, the Hawaiian coot (‘alae, ‘alae ke‘oke‘o) and the Hawaiian stilt (ae‘o); and visited by more than eighty species of migratory shorebirds, ducks and other waterbirds. Native plants like makaloa (sedge) and kaluhā (papyrus) also grow there. Every Thursday from 8:30 to 11 a.m., volunteers gather at Kanahā to clear alien species and plant native flora. 572-6338, Hear.org/Volunteer/Maui/Kanaha.htm

The Society provides shelter and other vital services for animals in need: aiding in adoptions, offering education on caring for pets and keeping them safe. Volunteers can walk, bathe, groom and play with animals at the shelter; take dogs on beach outings; help at pet-adoption events and spay-neuter clinics. They can also provide temporary care for foster animals that aren’t quite ready for adoption. Meha Meha Loop, Pu‘unēnē, 877-3680, Volunteer@ MauiHumaneSociety.org, MauiHumaneSociety.org

ALIGN WITH WELLNESS AT DISCOVER KATALYST

“I’m motivated and inspired to help people launch into the most amazing version of themselves.” Discover Katalyst sessions have applications for shifting and unwinding source issues within the emotional and physical body to the point of being a completely transformative experience. Open daily, South Maui, Kīhei | DiscoverKatalyst.com | Instagram: @ DiscoverKatalyst | 808-250-2767

KACHI JEWELRY

Beautiful locally handcrafted jewelry from one of Maui’s own, Cathy U‘u of Kachi Jewelry. Each unique piece is handmade in Pā‘ia and sold at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea’s Art Program every Monday and the south lobby of the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas every Wednesday. KachiInc.com |Instagram: @Kachi_Inc |KachiJewelry@gmail.com |808-281-0454

FOREVER H AND A MAUI

Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these adorable Hawaiian dresses and accessories for 18-inch American Girl dolls, along with matching dresses and accessories for girls of all ages. Find them at Forever H and A Maui, 658 Front Street, Lahaina, or the Maui Swap Meet on Saturdays | ForeverHAndAMaui. com | Facebook and Instagram: @ ForeverHAndAMaui | 808-661-1760, 808-276-0960 or 808-276-3838

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast Maui coffee, Hawaiian coffee, and our blends daily in our ecofriendly, small-batch roaster to ensure the freshness of every roast. Taste the flavors of Hawai‘i in every freshly brewed cup. 444 Hāna Highway, Kahului | 808-877-2877 | MauiCoffeeRoasters.com

STUDIO22K

Studio 22k is a gallery and studio of high-karat 22k gold jewelry. Sherri Dhyan, owner and in-house goldsmith, showcases goldsmiths from around the world who are dedicated to the traditions of ancient Mesopotamian jewelry. These techniques of granulation, filigree, repouseé/chasing and hand-forging are skillfully recreated in the gallery and made on Maui. 161B Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia | 808-579-8167 | Studio22k.com

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ADVERTORIAL

SARGENT’S FINE ART & JEWELRY

R2H: ROAD TO HANA

Need the perfect gift for someone traveling to Maui? Give them the experience of a lifetime—exploring Maui’s lush rainforests, hidden waterfalls, and other breathtaking natural wonders. They’ll find all this and more with Road to Hāna, the most adventurous and romantic Hāna guide available. They’ll do the driving, and we’ll do the guiding! CDs and downloads available at any ABC Store on Maui, and TheR2H.com.

She’ll be dripping in pearls with the Peacock Necklace, handmade with Tahitian pearls and leather by Glorious Oceanic Creations. Customizable lengths and numbers of pearls; prices vary. Just one of the more than 25 local jewelry designers represented in the gallery. 802 Front Street, Lahaina 808-667-2131 SargentsFineJewelry. com

MANAKAI SWIMWEAR

Manakai Swimwear’s boutique offers seamless and fully reversible eco-luxe bikinis and onepieces. Here, you will discover the best beach and skincare essentials every woman needs. Visit Maui’s award-winning sustainable and ethical swim company today. 888 Front St., Lahaina | ManakaiSwimwear.com | 808-281-0944

TUTU’S PANTRY

Take a taste of Hawai‘i home! At Tutu’s Pantry you’ll find a large selection of homemade jams, butters, syrups, sauces, hot sauces, seasonings and more, all made in Hawai‘i using locally sourced ingredients. Make sure to ask for samples! Open 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Kihei Kalama Village, 1941 S. Kīhei Road, Unit D5 | 808-8746400 | TutusPantry.com

PINK BY NATURE

Blending modern bohemian with a classic, relaxed style, this locally owned and curated lifestyle boutique carries many made-in-USA designers, including Mother Denim, Bella Dahl, Novella Royale, and Beautiful People. You’ll also find locally made and designed jewelry, like these 24K gold-dipped rings with semiprecious stones. 3663 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | PinkByNatureMaui.com| 808-572-9576 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

ADVERTORIAL

HO‘OMANA SPA MAUI

Ho‘omana Spa Maui is a Hawaiian-owned day spa, bringing ancient healing ways to your modern spa experience. Offering lomi lomi massage, ho‘oponopono (energetic alignment), lā‘au lapa‘au (plant medicine), transformational Hawaiian spa rituals, luxurious couples’ retreats, healing baths and body treatments. HoomanaSpaMaui.com | 808-573-8256

SASSABELLA BOUTIQUE

Sassabella showcases locally based designers and features highquality, extremely soft garments. We offer a unique and sassy shopping experience. Choose from one-of-a-kind jewels and handbags, plus cozy and versatile clothing not found elsewhere. 36 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia | Facebook.com/ SassabellaBoutique | 808-572-3552

HANGLOOSE HAMMOCKS HAWAII

Established in 2007, this globally responsible company works directly with family artisans from five different countries, providing fair-trade employment to hundreds of economically disadvantaged superstars. Visit Hawai‘i’s largest hammock in Ha‘ikū, or the biggest little hammock shop in Lahaina. 810 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū | 658 Front Street, Lahaina | Facebook/ Instagram: @HangLooseHammocksHawaii.com | 808-224-5764

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‘OPIHI MAUI

Based in Upcountry Kula, ‘Opihi Maui is named for a Hawaiian limpet—a delicacy symbolic of steadfastness, simplicity, nourishment and a strong foundation. We aspire to perpetuate our Hawaiian culture, values, and language, getting our inspiration from our ancestors and land. OpihiMaui.com | OpihiMaui@gmail.com

HOLIDAY & CO.

Holiday & Co. is a charming boutique nestled on the slopes of Haleakalā in the heart of Makawao Town. Here, inside the historic Matsui Store building, you will find the highest quality fabrics, leather goods, jewelry and much more. 3681 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao | HolidayAndCoMaui.com | HolidayAndCo@gmail.com | Instagram: @HolidayAndCompany | 808-572-1470

KULEANA®

Give “farm-to-face” beauty for the holidays. Buy any two 2 oz. Kuleana® beauty oils and receive a free beauty oil sampler set with three travel-size beauty oils. Visit KuleanaBeauty.com and enter promo code “MNKOholiday” at checkout. Limit one per customer; offer expires Dec. 25, 2018.

MAUI STARGAZING

Join Maui Stargazing for a breathtaking sunset at Haleakalā summit, followed by a fascinating laser tour of the constellations. View visible planets, galaxies, nebulae and star clusters through a 12-inch telescope. Warm outerwear and hot beverages keep guests toasty warm. MauiStargazing.com | 808-298-8254

ADVANCE WILDLIFE EDUCATION

Advance Wildlife Education (AWE) was started by Che Frausto, a wildlife biologist on Maui who wanted to do more to help Hawai‘i’s many endangered native species. With all AWE products sold, a percentage is donated to support local conservation organizations. Find AWE at the Maui Swap Meet, Booth #320 | AdvanceWildlifeEducation.org | Instagram and Facebook: @Advance_Wildlife_Education

TREEHOUSE DESIGNS

Locally made on Maui’s north shore, all of our modern fabric bags and small-batch leather goods are thoughtfully designed and carefully crafted. Designer Shannon Peck’s recipe is simple: quality materials + honest work = a piece to be treasured. Stop by the pop-up shop every Monday and Friday at the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas | TreeHouseMade.com | 808281-5693 | Instagram: @ treehouse_designs

ISLAND STATUS BOUTIQUE

Island Status Boutique offers 100 percent natural henna and jagua temporary tattoos. We also carry Maui’s own KO Swim Hawai‘i, women’s clothing by local designers, and unique gifts and accessories, including Punky Aloha postcards, Boho Designs Maui jewelry, Aloha Collection bags, Slippa beach towels, and more. 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., #G | IslandStatusBoutique.com | 808-740-3139 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

AT HOME

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portal to the a is e m o h linda A historic O

Y SAR A past. STORY B

H RUPPEN

TH A L

There’s no place like a historic home for the holidays. Generations of memories live in this 106-year-old Upcountry dwelling. Photograph by Ryan Siphers Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

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AT HOME

Left: Antiques and cherished family heirlooms lend the grand living room the ambiance of an earlier era—when they were new. Above: Past remains present in the formal dining room, a hub of happy activity, especially during the holidays. Interior designer Ann Jones created the table’s festive centerpiece. Photographs by Ryan Siphers

Claire Sanford’s vacation home looks like it’s from another era. And it is. For generations, her family has kept the 106-year-old dwelling in Olinda virtually unchanged.

An SUV parked under a towering eucalyptus and a pair of sneakers on the veranda remind visitors that they haven’t been transported back to the early 1900s à la H.G. Wells. Otherwise, the impeccably maintained home seems to be in suspended animation: you could easily picture women in flapper dresses and men in bow ties and fedoras arriving for a glamorous, champagne-filled New Year’s Eve party. In 1877, Sam Alexander—one-half of the Alexander & Baldwin sugar-growing partnership—purchased a sprawling parcel of land on the northern slope of Haleakalā. Smitten by the pastoral surroundings, Sam named the area Olinda, which means “oh, beautiful” in Portuguese. In 1888, Sam sold the property to his friend and business partner, Henry Perrine Baldwin, and Henry’s wife, Emily. After Henry’s death in 1911, his son and daughter-in-law, Harry and Ethel Baldwin, decided to build the two-story, 4,500-square-foot cedar-wood vacation home that now sits on the sixty-acre property bordering the vast rangelands of Haleakalā Ranch. For a time, Harry, Ethel, and their three children would journey on horseback 4,000 feet up the mountain to the winding dirt road that led to the Olinda house, with food and supplies trailing behind them in an oxcart. The eventual purchase of an automobile made the trek infinitely less arduous, and the horses were relegated to stables on the property. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

The black-and-white photo above was taken not long after Harry and Ethel Baldwin built this family vacation home in Olinda. More than a century later, little has changed—outside or in. An accomplished and versatile artist (her media ranged from pastels and acrylics to silver holloware), Ethel brought that aesthetic eye to designing the home’s décor.

The youngest of Harry and Ethel’s children, Frances, was Claire’s grandmother. She owned the property until the 1970s before passing it on to Claire’s mother, Maizie Cameron Sanford, and uncle, Colin Cameron. Claire grew up on O‘ahu, but spent nearly every holiday and summer in Olinda. At times, the home would host up to twenty people, and no matter the occasion—or decade—it was filled with merriment. “Besides Christmas, New Year’s and Thanksgiving par-

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ties, there were wonderful long vacations with aunts, uncles, cousins, and always an assortment of interesting guests,” Claire recalls. “It’s had its share of honeymooners, including my parents.” The grand living room has the feel of a hunting lodge, with woodbeamed ceilings, a red-brick fireplace and cushioned, built-in window benches. There, Claire would spend long summer evenings toasting marshmallows, reading by candlelight (aside from the kitchen, the house didn’t have electricity until 1970), or challenging her siblings

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and cousins to a round of Monopoly or Sardines (a variation of hide-and-seek). “There were so many nooks and crannies we could wedge ourselves into—you just had to stop yourself from giggling so you wouldn’t give away your hiding spot,” she laughs. Ethel chose the home’s décor, and with the exception of the sofas (there have been several iterations over the years), family heirlooms are everywhere, from the Victrola in the living room to the high chair in the dining room to the sumptuous chaise in one of the bedrooms. “There is . . . comfort and nostalgia in being able to step back in time,” says Claire, “of being able to walk into the house and recognize its particular smell, of pulling a book from the bookcase as an adult and

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DANTE PARDUCCI; LOWER LEFT: COURTESY OF HOMEOWNER

Ethel painted one upstairs bedroom baby blue, a second dusty rose, a third golden yellow, and the fourth a neutral white. Claire says that for as long as she can remember, they were simply called the “pink room,” “blue room,” “yellow room,” and “hikie‘e room”—so named for its oversized bed. (Hikie‘e means a large Hawaiian couch.) The photo below shows the home circa 1947.

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Upstairs, design takes a geometric turn accentuated by the bold Navajo rug, one of many treasures Ethel and Harry Baldwin collected during their travels on the West Coast. Opposite a wooden railing carved with stylized flowers, wall-length bookshelves hold classic volumes that adults in the family read as children. Facing page: The bedroom known as the “pink room.”

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AT HOME

remembering reading it as a child, or looking at photos and objects [that] have been in more or less the same spot for 100 years.” Marvels abound: A trove of old magazines—from Vogue to Good Housekeeping—lines the shelves of a walk-in hall closet. (Claire says the periodicals so intrigued one houseguest that the woman wrote a book about them.) In the living room, a writing desk opens to reveal stillhalf-full bottles of Carter’s writing fluid and Harry and Ethel’s personalized stationery.

The bathrooms have original claw-footed tubs, and cabinets stocked with rarely seen items, like World War II-era boxes of Red Cross bandages and bottles of smelling salts. Awash in white, the kitchen looks like a Hollywood film set from the 1930s—but it’s the real thing. There’s an old-fashioned butler’s pantry, built-in china cabinets filled with vintage kitchenware, a metal juicer affixed to the wall, and a wire-and-mesh pie safe in the adjoining cold room, which was used to store food during the summer months.

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But it’s likely the home’s six bedrooms have left the greatest impression on visitors. Claire says that on every family trip to Olinda, as the car slowly made its way down the carriage driveway that threads through the porte cochère, she and her siblings would stealthily plot their mad dash into the house to claim their rooms. “We had our favorites,” she says. “Each had its own personality.” There are two bedrooms on the first floor, four on the second, all furnished with antiques and framed family photos in sepia or black and white. Each bedroom has a kerosene lamp—there are no televisions, computers or modems anywhere. That, too, is a throwback to earlier times: the kitchen was wired for electricity in 1945; it took a quarter of a century more for the rest of house. “We [kids] loved carrying candles around at night, so when we found out the whole house would have electricity, there was a formal protest,” Claire laughs. Sometime in the 1940s, the family had the second-floor lānai screened in and converted

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VIP Service Top: Despite its vintage appearance, the kitchen is stocked with all the appliances and accessories you’d expect in a residence designed for entertaining. Above: Screening turned the front lānai into a sleeping porch youngsters vied for. Wiring the entire house for electricity came decades later.

into a sleeping porch to accommodate more overnight guests. It quickly became a coveted spot for younger visitors (Claire included). Apart from that, all of the home’s architectural features remain intact, inside and out. Claire attributes this to her grandmother and mother, who had an aversion to unnecessary change. “They would have viewed things like room renovation or upgrades to appliances as being frivolities.” And it’s a good thing they did. More than a century later, the home has a timeless, magical quality. “The house is a real touchstone for all three generations that grew up with it as a major part of our lives,” Claire says. “We all experienced the gatherings and the happy parties, and as a result, we have a wonderful shared history.”

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Dining

With Taverna chef Gene Pike riding shotgun, Roger Stettler adds a finishing touch to his vitello tonnato: fried capers. Opposite: Test Kitchen assistants (a.k.a. MNKO staff) raise a toast to the holidays, the feast, and hosts Sharon and Joe Saunders (far end of table).

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M AU I N Ō K A ‘ O I ’ S 2018 H O L I DAY T E ST K I TC H E N

Italian: Perfetto. English translation: Perfect. Flawless. Complete. It’s barely 10:30 in the morning, and the Swiss in Taverna’s chef and co-owner, Roger Stettler, is showing. We’ve just arrived, and find he has already laid out workstations in the home kitchen of Joe and Sharon Saunders, two of his business partners. Within minutes, we’re helping him prepare the dishes for our annual Holiday Test Kitchen. A butcher-block counter, perfect for rolling out pasta, is occupied by four portions of dough wrapped in plastic film. They look like flat river rocks painted midnight black, and when I press one with my thumb, it’s firm to the touch. Roger says, “That’s for the tagliarini. I kneaded the dough for thirty minutes; you

M ENU

S TO RY BY B EC KY S P EER E | P H OTO G R A P H Y BY M I EKO H O R I KO S H I Vitello Tonnato

Chilled Veal with Tuna Sauce

Tagliarini Nero Pomodoro con Pulpo

Squid Ink Pasta, Stewed Cherry Tomatoes with Shallots and Garlic

Brasato al Barolo

Red Wine Braised Beef, Carrots and Polenta

Zabaglione di Grappa

Marsala and Black Pepper Marinated Figs Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Dining

Vitello Tonnato Serves 6–8 | Prep time 30 minutes, plus overnight to cool veal in stock Ingredients 2 lb. veal, top round or loin 1 carrot, peeled 1 celery stalk 1 medium onion, peeled 1 twig of thyme 1 twig of Italian parsley 1 bay leaf 2 tsp. oil 2 oz. dry white wine 1 qt. water salt and pepper to taste Method Cut carrot, onion, and celery into thumbthick cubes for mirepoix. Season the veal with salt and pepper, pour the oil into a frying pan and place over medium-high heat. Sear the veal and remove from pan. Deglaze the pan with white wine, then add water, aromatics herbs (parsley, thyme, bay leaf) and mirepoix. Bring to a boil, add the veal and simmer until the veal is fully cooked. Remove from the flame and cool the veal in the stock overnight. Remove from the stock. Slice very thin and arrange on plate. TONNATO SAUCE Yield 2.5 cups | Prep time 30 minutes Ingredients 2 egg yolks 1 whole egg 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 2 c. olive oil 7 oz. tuna in water (can or pouch okay) 5 anchovy fillets 2 tsp. capers 1 tsp. lemon juice, freshly squeezed salt and pepper to taste Method Place egg and yolks in a blender cup. Add mustard, anchovy, capers, lemon juice and tuna. Blend to a smooth purée. While the blender is running on medium high speed, add the olive oil, pouring in a slow but steady stream, and slowly emulsify. The sauce should have the consistency of a Caesar dressing. You might have to adjust the thickness with some ice water. Taste and adjust salt and pepper if necessary—however, all these ingredients are very strong in flavor and most likely do not need any salt and pepper. Plating Place the thinly sliced veal on an appetizer plate, cover with sauce, and top with some capers and freshly chopped Italian parsley. Every bite should be enjoyed with a good amount of sauce.

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Clockwise from top left: Ingredients set mise en place for vitello tonnato; seared veal is chilled, sliced thin and portioned; dollops of tonnato sauce cover each serving of veal; pouring olive oil into the mini-blender for Taverna’s signature tuna sauce.

have to mix it really well to blend in the [squid] ink.” That’s the Italian in him speaking. The half-Swiss/half-Italian Stettler is: 1) organized; and 2) a great chef. Along with the Saunders and Roger’s wife, Lynn, today’s crew includes Taverna partner Chris Kaiwi, chef Gene Pike, and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s Diane Woodburn, Michael Haynes, and Cathy Westerberg. We gather around as Roger tells us he marinated the beef in wine and mirepoix (chopped and sautéed vegetables) for twenty-four hours, then drained the liquid from the marinade. “We’ll bring it to a simmer slowly so the protein will coagulate and we can skim it off.” Smoke rises as he sears three short ribs in a hot sauté pan coated lightly with olive oil. A nice fond develops as they brown. After discarding the foam from the simmering marinade, he deglazes the pan with a little of the wine marinade and pours it over the beef, along with the aromatics and some beef stock. Then into the oven it goes, with a handful of fresh herbs, to cook for two hours. Diane and Michael are busily chopping parsley, shallots and garlic, while Cathy slices beefsteak tomatoes for the pomodoro sauce. Roger keeps a watchful eye on his understudies as he sears veal for the vitello tonnato. He places a fistful of chunky mirepoix into the pan to infuse the veal with more flavor. “Normally, we would let the veal chill in the stock,” he explains, “but since we are pressed for time, we’ll cool the veal quickly, then slice it thin.”

Clockwise from top: Olives tossed in citrus zest and lemon juice compliment the classic dish of vitello tonnato served with homemade Italian bread. Tagliarini nero (black pasta) is ready for a quick boil to al dente. Grilled octopus will top the squidink pasta with pomodoro.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Dining

Tagliarini Nero Pomodoro con Pulpo Serves 6–8 | Prep time 1.5 hours TAGLIARINI NERO (BLACK PASTA) Ingredients 1 lb. semolina, plus a bit extra for separating/storing pasta 1 c. water 1 egg ¼ tsp. squid ink (available at Maui Prime Foods, 142 Kupuohi St., Lahaina; or online) Method Blend water and egg, place semolina in a bowl, add squid ink and a bit of the water/egg mix. Knead, bringing the dough together, adding more water if necessary. Keep kneading until you have a very smooth and black dough. Set aside and let the dough rest for at least two hours. Place the dough on a flat surface (a granite or wood kitchen counter works perfectly). With a rolling pin, roll the dough to a very thin sheet. Fold the sheet in half and cut into thin tagliarini. Place on a sheet pan and sprinkle with semolina for easier handling. Bring salt water to a boil and blanch the pasta till al dente. POMODORO (TOMATO SAUCE) Yield approx. 4 cups | Prep time 1.5 hours Ingredients 2 lb. cherry tomatoes 2 whole tomatoes, cubed 4 oz. shallots, julienned 4 oz. garlic, slivered 1 stalk of basil 1 c. extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste Method Place the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add the shallots and garlic, and fry for a few minutes, while stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the cherry tomatoes, cubed tomatoes and stalk of basil. Bring to a boil on mediumhigh heat, then lower heat to a simmer. Let the pomodoro sauce simmer about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Remove the basil stalk and season with salt and pepper to taste. Chef’s recommendation This pasta dish can accompany octopus, shrimp, clams, scallops, and other seafood; or be served with just the pomodoro sauce.

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Top: Smoky, grilled octopus is melt-in-your-mouth delicious atop squid-ink pasta and slowsimmered red and yellow cherry tomato sauce. Above left: Diane Woodburn rolls out the pasta dough for chef Roger (center right) to slice into thin strips for cooking. Bottom right: Chef Gene grills the octopus to perfection.

“Who wants to prep the octopus?” Gene asks. “Uh, I guess I can do it,” Michael says hesitantly. “I’ve never done this before and I’ve never tried eating it either,” he admits to no one in particular. To which I think, I’ll gladly eat his portion! I tell Michael, “It tastes like scallops, without the sweetness.” The knife slides easily through the cooked octopus. “Roger, how did you get it so tender?” asks Diane. “It’s a trick I learned: put a cork in the water when you cook it. It tenderizes the meat,” says Roger. Cork? “Yes, from a wine bottle,” says Chef. Gene takes the skewered cephalopod and grills it over a hot fire, the delicious aroma rising in the smoke. “Charring it will add a bit of texture and another dimension of flavor.” Cathy preps the polenta Roger cooked yesterday, breaking it apart per his directions. “We’re going for a rustic look in this dinner,” he tells her, adding that after she has finished, “We’ll put some butter and grated Parmesan over the top [and] bake it in the oven till golden. Very easy.” The pomodoro simmers on the stove with meltingly tender shallots and garlic, large beefsteaks tomatoes cut into cubes, whole yellow and red cherry tomatoes (locally sourced), all

Tender slices of wine-braised beef short ribs are our feast’s crowning dish, served here with sweet carrots and Parmesan-baked Italian polenta.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

Dining

Brasato al Barolo Serves 4–6 | Prep time 3 hours Ingredients 2 lb. boneless beef short ribs 1 onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 1 celery stalk, diced 1 stalk Italian parsley, chopped finely 1 6” sprig of thyme 1 4” sprig of rosemary 5 cloves of garlic, minced

2 bay leaves 1 tsp. cracked black peppercorn 3 pieces star anise 1 750 ml. bottle of Barolo 2 qt. brown stock 3 Tbsp. cooking oil salt and pepper to taste

Method Marinate the short ribs with the next 11 ingredients. Cover and place in refrigerator. Marinate for at least 24 hours. Remove the short ribs from the marinade, season with salt and pepper. Place a frying pan with oil on medium-high heat and sear the ribs on all sides. Plate and set aside. Bring the marinade to a slow boil and skim off the foam. Deglaze the pan with a little marinade. Place the ribs into a Dutch oven or deep baking pan and cover with the marinade and brown stock. Cover with parchment paper and foil, or the lid of the Dutch oven, and place in the preheated oven. Braise at 320°F for 2–3 hours. CARROTS Yield 6–8 servings | Prep time 30 minutes Ingredients 2 lb. baby carrots, preferably local 2 shallots, diced

1 Tbsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. butter Salt and pepper to taste

Method Clean the carrots, blanch in boiling salt water for a few minutes, drain and cool in ice water. Remove from ice water. Before serving, place a frying pan on medium-high heat, add the butter, shallots and sugar. Add the carrots and sauté until hot. Season with salt and pepper. POLENTA Serves 6–8 | Prep time 1.5 hours Ingredients 1 lb. coarse polenta, preferably imported from Italy 8 c. water

2 tsp. butter 1 c. grated Parmesan cheese ¼ c. extra virgin olive oil, or butter salt and pepper to taste

Method Bring the water to a boil. Using a whisk, slowly stir in the polenta. Cook on low heat, stirring for 20–30 minutes, or until tender. With a wooden spoon, stir in the butter and Parmesan cheese, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour polenta onto an oiled sheet pan and spread evenly. Let it cool completely, then refrigerate till service. Portion polenta by tearing into pieces, then place in an oven-safe platter. Drizzle with olive oil or butter and top with grated Parmesan. Place in oven at 350°F for about 20 minutes, till golden. Chef’s recommendation: Slice the beef and place on a familystyle platter with plenty of sauce. Arrange the carrots around the beef for an attractive presentation. Serve polenta on the side.

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From top, L–R: Drain short ribs and pat dry before searing. Skim coagulated proteins from the hot marinade, pour the marinade reduction over the pan-seared ribs . . . and cook them two or three tantalizing hours before checking for tenderness. Lynn and Cathy remove the stringy, fine roots from baby carrots. Blanched carrots sauté in butter and a touch of sugar. Baked polenta is dappled with browned butter and Parmesan cheese.

yielding a delicious sauce that’s fresh and sweet. Roger says, “I like using cherry tomatoes because they hold their shape, while the large tomatoes cook down and thicken the sauce. All it needs is a little basil, salt, pepper and it’s done.” Meanwhile, Diane is on her tippy toes, struggling to roll out the squid-ink pasta. Roger laughs and says, “Who needs the gym when you can roll pasta, huh?” Diane answers, “My counters at home are made for my height, and I’m a little over five feet. This counter is made for tall people,” she adds, glancing at Sharon, who says, “We designed our home with an architect friend, Eric Henderson, who we’ve cooked with many times. It made designing easy.” As a chef and former restaurant owner, I’ve been discreetly checking out the Saunders’ kitchen layout. “I love the butler service area,” I say, “and the ovens there,” motioning to the hallway/ pass-through attached to, but separate from, the central kitchen. Sharon says, “The oven’s heat gets vented out to keep the main kitchen cooler.” I ask whether she and Joe like to cook, and Sharon grins, telling me that for her thirteenth birthday, her parents gave

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AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

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Dining

Zabaglione di Grappa Serves 4–6 | Prep time 40 minutes, plus overnight marinating of figs FIGS Ingredients 1 lb. fresh figs, cut in half ½ c. sugar 1 c. red wine ½ c. marsala 1 stick cinnamon 1 piece star anise Method Place red wine, marsala, sugar, cinnamon and star anise in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove and pour over the figs. Cover and let the figs marinate in refrigerator overnight. ZABAGLIONE Yield approximately 5 cups Prep time 20 minutes Ingredients 6 egg yolks 2 c. white wine 1 oz. grappa 5 Tbsp. sugar Method Mix all ingredients together and place in an oversized bowl. Fill a pan halfway with water, place on the stove and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium. Place the bowl with the zabaglione on top and whisk until it stiffens and doubles in volume. Be careful that it does not get too hot, or the eggs will overcook and scramble. Chef’s recommendation Remove the figs from the marinade and place in individual serving bowls. Top the figs with the zabaglione and serve immediately. Zabaglione should be enjoyed while it is warm.

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Top, L–R: For zabaglione, combine red wine, egg yolks, grappa and sugar, place over a hot water bath, and whisk to a warm, fluffy sauce. Above, L–R: Chilled overnight, figs marinated in red wine are ready for plating. At right, the grand finale: Grappa-spiked zabaglione blankets the marinated figs. Delizioso!

her a timecard. “My family owned a restaurant in Bensenville, Illinois, serving diners from 1920 to 1998. So, yes, we love to cook. Joe’s love is his wine cellar.” Now it’s Joe’s turn to grin. Their love for food extends to their philanthropy. For the past four years, they’ve been major donors to the American Heart Association’s “Kids Cook with Heart” at Princess Nahienaena Elementary School, Lahaina Intermediate, and Lahainaluna High School. The program’s goal is to educate and instill in our keiki the importance of healthy eating. The Saunders hope to see the program go countywide. Chef announces that vitello tonnato sauce is next on the agenda. Egg yolks, lemon juice, tuna and olive oil go into the Magic Bullet and a sauce magically appears. I sneak a taste and it is creamy and soft, yet lively with lemon. Nearby sits a jar of capers; I give

them a nibble, too. “Those capers are so yummy!” “I wash the brine off, dry them well and fry them,” says Roger. “We’ll use them to garnish the vitello tonnato.” Oops! I stop nibbling. Lynn, Cathy, and Diane circle a bag of Aina Lani Farm’s colorful baby carrots, and begin cleaning them. “Are you going to peel them?” I ask. “No,” says Lynn, “we just wipe off the little hairs and cut the root end.” Whew! All this food is making me hungry. Thirty more minutes of peeling carrots would be torture! With our holiday dinner ready, mise en place set for the à la minute zabaglione and figs, and Joe’s wonderful wine pairings selected, we sit and enjoy the fruits of our labor. “Buon Natale!” says Roger as we raise our celebratory glasses of wine. Watch some helpful video clips at MauiMagazine. net/holiday-test-kitchen-2018

CHEFS OF CHRISTMAS PAST Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s “Holiday Test Kitchen” began as a review of cookbooks in 2008 and morphed into a yearly chef-led event. In 2011, our first Test Kitchen chef, Ralph Giles, wowed the staff with beef Wellington en croute. So happy were readers (and the staff, who got to rub shoulders with the chef and eat like kings and queens) that the next year we invited chef Isaac Bancaco, who at the time ran the kitchens at Pineapple Grill, to dazzle us. And he did, preparing Peking duck, “unfried fried rice,” and corn malasadas. In 2013, chef Anton Haines of Pacific’O Restaurant led the gang of literati in an elegant dinner prep, complete with pork loin rack roast with caramelized Calvados sauce. And each year we’d exclaim, “This Test Kitchen was the best one yet!” Our 2014 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year and Bravo TV’s Top Chef finalist Sheldon Simeon of MiGRANT and Mala Wailea walked us through some of his favorite holiday dishes: kim chee, barbequed ribs, and ‘ahi poke, to name just a few. Our 2015 holiday feast featured three wise men, all notable culinarians: Cameron Lewark, chef/partner at Spago Wailea,

and his buddies, Brian Etheredge and Chris Kulis of Capische? and The Market at the Wailea Gateway. We happy few learned how to filet lehi (fish) for sashimi; poach bacon-wrapped venison in a water bath; and crust a whole onaga in salt. Those three chefs set our minds spinning with holiday feast ideas. Chef Eric Morrissette of Fleetwood’s on Front St. took the helm at 2016’s Test Kitchen with a heavenly pistachio-crusted rack of lamb and bouillabaisse. Mick Fleetwood hosted us in his Upcountry home, leaving us star-struck as well as food-struck. Last year’s chef, Tylun Pang of Fairmont Kea Lani, wowed us with ginger-steamed moi with lup cheong sausage (my favorite dish in the world), cedar-wrapped Kaua‘i shrimp, Kona lobster potstickers and more. And of course, in this issue, we’re thrilled that chef Roger Stettler of Taverna found time in his schedule for us. Check out the entire collection of Test Kitchen menus and recipes in our online archives—Maui Magazine.net/category/recipes. I’m sure you’ll find something you’ll want to prepare this holiday, or any day!—Becky Speere, MNKO dining editor

SAVOR THE MEAL. DEVOUR THE VIEW. Dining worthy of the paradise that surrounds it. Located in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

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Dining Highlights

CHEFS ON A ROLL What drives a great chef ? Ingredients? Creativity? Meticulous attention to detail? We’d say all of the above. And what do great chefs drive? Food trucks, of course! (Find them on Facebook and Instagram—they do get around.) STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

MauiMagazine.net

Top left: Grass-fed beef helps make Dino’s creamy blue-cheese burger a winner. It’s served with fries drizzled with garlic sauce. Right: Thai Mee Up’s fried pork ribs and green papaya salad exemplify the traditional flavors that will transport your taste buds straight to Thailand.

THAI MEE UP “Move over, orange chicken,” I say. “Hello, lemongrass!” I’m about to dig into Chef Tom Sribura’s fried chicken. It’s marinated in a punchy kaffir lime leaf, garlic, and lemongrass mix, then dusted with flour for a perfect crunch. In December 2015, Tom left a twenty-year career as a chef at Mama’s Fish House to launch his own business, Thai Mee Up; two years later, it earned MNKO’s ‘Aipono Gold Award for Best Food Truck. “I’m making the foods I grew up eating in Thailand,” he says, his light blue eyes shining as wife/partner Brandie stands nearby, smiling. He tells me that they have recently reworked their menu, and “Wait till you taste what we’ve added!” I’ll heed his suggestion next time, because today I’m back for my

favorite: fried pork ribs. It’s been a crowdpleaser since opening day; there should be a warning sign attached to the menu board declaring the addictiveness of the dish. I attack the stack of ribs with my hands, and the tender meat isn’t fall-off-the-bone soft, but it’s not supposed to be. The texture lends itself to more chewing—and more pure porky Thai flavors that fill me with bliss. I end the meal by licking the sweet and spicy marinade off my fingers; I don’t want to miss a single drop. Served with jasmine rice and green papaya salad, this is a meal . . . or two. And don’t forget the Thai iced tea! 24 Kiopa‘a St. (next to Longs Drugs) in Kula/ Pukalani, 280-7753; and Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului; 214-3369; IG: @ThaiMeeUp; FB: Thai Mee Up

COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

DINO’S GOURMET ON-THE-GO Dino Zagouras has worked in the kitchens of renowned chefs David Bouley, Charlie Palmer and Didier Oudil; and was executive chef of the restaurant Robert in NYC’s Museum of Arts and Design. Three years ago he gave that all up and moved to Maui with his wife, Kellina. When I ask why, he says, “I’m from Greece, but I love the States. I’m an island boy at heart.” In July 2018, Dino put Maui on the map with his blue-cheese burger—landing on Time.com’s list of top ten burger joints in the U.S. Dino bakes his own buns for those craveable burgers, and even his pasta is fresh. As I chow down on his hand-cut fries, he slips outside to gather mint from planters surrounding his mobile kitchen. Returning, he tells me, “It’s all in the ingredients. I don’t skimp on anything. I use homegrown herbs and local ingredients as much as possible.” Dino’s burgers are Maui Cattle Company grass-fed beef, and juicy. His signature golden crab-cake sandwiches, topped with dollops of creamy tzaziki, fly out his pass-through window. A one-man show, Dino is adamant about quality, preparing all dishes á la minute. So queue up, pay up and wait for some of the best grinds around. Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului; 516-428-1320; IG: @DinosGourmet; FB: Dino’s Gourmet On-The-Go

Become a part of our most memorable evening of the year by voting for your favorite restaurants.

Vote & Win!

First Prize: $200 gift certificate to an ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurant Second Prize: $100 gift certificate to an ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurant Winners of our drawing will be announced in the May/June “Best Dining” issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. OUR ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS GALA BENEFITS THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I MAUI COLLEGE’S CULINARY ARTS PROGRAM, HOSPITALITY & TOURISM PROGRAM AND MAUI FOOD INNOVATION CENTER

VOTING CLOSES DECEMBER 31, 2018. WINNERS WILL BE PRESENTED AT OUR AWARDS GALA IN APRIL 2019.

‘Aipono Awards BALLOT 2019 Vote for your favorite Maui restaurants at: MauiMagazine.net/VoteAipono

Or fill this out and mail to 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Ballots must be received by Dec. 31, 2018, to be eligible for drawing. Vote in at least 10 categories and be entered to win! See rules below.

The 36 categories with the most votes will be recognized on stage at the gala. Get your votes in today!

1. RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

The best of everything rolled into one: great food, service, value and ambiance. 2. BEST NEW RESTAURANT

15. BEST BURGER

29. BEST FOOD TRUCK

Eh, like beef? This is the place I recommend.

Fast service? Tasty fare? Heaven on wheels.

16. BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL CUISINE

30. BEST RESTAURANT POKE

My favorite Maui spot that opened in 2018.

This restaurant excels at combining the flavors of the Islands.

3. MOST “MAUI-EST”

17. BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE

I love taking visiting family and friends here— it’s the quintessential Maui place. 4. BEST SERVICE

I can count on the staff here to be prompt, knowledgeable and attentive to my needs. 5. BEST OCEANFRONT DINING

Ocean views and a salt-scented breeze add a savory note to this well-crafted menu. 6. MOST ROMANTIC SETTING

I propose this as the perfect place to pop that important question.

Dining here takes my taste buds on adventures across the Pacific and into the Far East. 18. BEST LŪ‘AU

Authentic island foods and entertainment make this is my favorite. 19. BEST MEXICAN

When I crave something South of the Border, I come here. 20. BEST ITALIAN

The perfectly seasoned raw fish they serve here tops my scale of 1 to 10. 31. BEST SHAVE ICE

If I had a slush fund, here’s where I’d spend it. 32. BEST DESSERT

My conclusion? This restaurant makes the yummiest finish to a meal. 33. BEST BAR

Here’s where everybody knows my name. 34. BEST HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS

Cheers for this venue’s masterful mixologists!

My favorite place to do as the Romans do. 35. BEST LOBBY LOUNGE 21. BEST MEDITERRANEAN/MIDDLE EASTERN

A well-stocked bar and great atmosphere makes this where I like to linger.

For the love of pita—and hummus, gyros, falafel, couscous and baba ganoush—dine here.

36. BEST WINE LIST

Vegan, vegetarian, or other dietary preferences—these folks do a great job.

22. BEST PLATE LUNCH

Bottled perfection: this restaurant’s excellent selection and knowledgeable servers.

9. MOST INNOVATIVE MENU

23. BEST PIZZA

This kitchen’s culinary creativity keeps me coming back for more.

The crusts? Upper crust! The toppings? Flat-out the best.

Do I consider this the ideal reception venue? I do! I do!

10. BEST BREAKFAST

24. BEST NOODLES

38. BEST LATE-NIGHT DINING

7. BEST LOCAL FLAVOR

Come as you are—the food is good and the setting is casual. 8. BEST HEALTHY FARE

Here’s my favorite place to start the day. 11. BEST BUSINESS LUNCH

Bottom line? This is where I like to bring clients, or meet with colleagues over lunch. 12. BEST HAPPY HOUR

Here’s to my favorite after-work spot for drinks and pūpū with friends.

Great local-style grinds? This one’s da kine!

Chow fun? Pad Thai? Any way you cut it, this is my favorite noodle house! 25. BEST FISH & SEAFOOD

For fresh fish and succulent preparation, this restaurant is the catch of the day. 26. BEST STEAK

37. BEST RESTAURANT TO HOST A SPECIAL EVENT

I’d stay up long past bedtime to feast here. 39. FARM-TO-TABLE

The freshest produce and locally raised meats make this place my pick. 40. BEST VIBE (AMBIANCE)

When I’m here, I know my favorite cut of beef will be prepared to a T.

When I dine out, they make me feel right at home.

For great Chinese, Korean or Japanese cuisine, this is my first choice.

27. BEST SUSHI

41. BEST GOURMET GRAB & GO

14. BEST SOUTHEAST ASIAN

28. BEST COFFEE SHOP

13. BEST ASIAN

Vietnamese? Thai? Filipino? Indian? This restaurant is oriented to the best!

Hooked on great sushi? Land here.

Great java, pastries and other light fare, and the service and setting are perks!

Just because you can’t stay doesn’t mean you have to settle. 42. BEST SPICY NIGHT OUT

This place is hot!

CONTEST RULES: Ballots must be received no later than December 31, 2018. One ballot (print or online) per person; duplicates will be discarded. You must vote in at least 10 categories for your ballot to be a valid entry. Two prize-winning ballots will be selected at random December 31. Participation is open to all MNKO readers 18 years and older. Employees, advertisers and promotional partners of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi may vote but are not eligible to win prizes. Mail ballots to: ‘Aipono Awards, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793.

Dining Highlights

Visit our online guide to food trucks at MauiMagazine.net/food-trucks

MENDO MAUI Tak Toride and MiJin Kang Toride hold, respectively, bachelor’s degrees in hospitality/restaurant management, and nutritional science, but their love of good food propelled them into the kitchen. After they graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, Tak took a job at Spruce, a Michelin Star restaurant in San Francisco, and later rose to sous chef at Morimoto Maui. MiJin worked for esteemed chef Hiro Sone of Michelin Star Terra in Napa Valley, then as chef de cuisine at Ka‘ana Kitchen in Andaz Maui. Expect an exciting, chef-driven menu. If you dig spicy food, try a miso pork ramen with house chili paste, kochujang, tobanjan, red chili, kochukaru and chili oil. My knees get weak

Sea Salt Maui’s pastrami Reuben is stacked and ready! Homemade dill pickles add a punch to the meat-and-sauerkraut sandwich with homemade Thousand Island dressing.

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when I think about my favorite Seoul crisps: bulgogi beef, Asian pear salsa, and avocado on fried mandoo wraps. It’s a mess to eat, but worth every napkin. The steamed buns stuffed with soy-braised pork, kimchee, and hoisin mayo are 5-star tender. And you can’t beat Mendo Maui’s ramen bowl, with freshly made noodles and traditonal broth that’s simmered six hours. (Read more about Tak and MiJin at MauiMagazine.net/chefexchange and MauiMagazine.net/sharingtradition. 1 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei; 755-5760; IG: @ MendoMaui; FB: Mendo Maui SEA SALT MAUI I cried salty tears when Pā‘ia restaurant Hana Ranch Provisions closed two years ago. Imagine my joy at learning that former restaurant manager Kane Charbonneau and chef Gary Johnson have partnered in this new venture! Kane served as sous chef at Husk, a James Beard award-winning South Carolina restaurant, under executive chef Travis Grimes and celebrity chef Sean Brock. Gary was the award-winning chef at the 2015 Seafood Fest, the MNKO-hosted finale of the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival. One signature Sea Salt dish—a flashback to Hana Ranch Provisions—comes from a 150-year-old Eastern European tradition: pastrami cured for nine days and finished with kiawe-smoked goodness. Served on sourdough rye, the slices of brisket have a brined meatiness. Add a farm-fresh side (they change daily) like roasted kale and beet salad napped with citrus-liliko‘i vinaigrette; or mango and Maui onion with jicama and mint, tossed in a spunky sweet chile vinaigrette. I’ll be getting a sandwich to go for my next off-island trip! (Find the recipe at MauiMagazine.net/coctel-a-lacampachana.) Ka Makeke Maui, 424 Dairy Rd., Kahului; 757-5385; IG: @SeaSaltMaui; FB: Sea Salt Maui

WOKAHOLIC Even before the 2018 opening of pastry chef Yi Song’s Sichuanese food truck, anticipation teased everyone’s minds. What did this young graduate of the UH–Maui College Culinary Arts Program—a protégé of Rising Star chef Jojo Vasquez—have in mind? In her lilting Chinese accent, Yi confides, “I had the idea of doing Sichuanese food when Jonathan Gold introduced his Sichuanese restaurant, Chengdu Taste, to Los Angeles diners. I couldn’t stop [thinking] how awesome it would be if I could contribute to Maui’s food scene [by introducing] my home town cuisine.” I start with a cup of Yi’s green tea, imported from Fujian, China’s most prestigious tea-growing province. Fruity and flavored with jasmine, its high floral notes set my taste buds singing. For the entrée, I order the cold chicken noodle: shreds of white meat napped in Mama Yi’s secret Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette, served atop chilled wheat noodles. It’s the perfect foil for a hot West Maui day. Is heat more your thing? Try the spicy dry-pot shrimp with long-grain rice. And if you’re looking for a flavor bomb, Yi’s dan dan noodles are so good, your toes will curl with delight. See you in Chengdu! Oops, I mean, Honokōwai! Broke Da Mouth Food Truck Park, across from Times, 3350 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai; and 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; 4466070; IG: @WokaholicMaui; FB: Wokaholic

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF MENDO MAUI (2); COURTESY OF WOKAHOLIC; BECKY SPEERE; JANICE SIMEON

Left: Decisions, decisions—Mendo Maui’s fresh noodles in broth come Korean style (shown here) with corn and spicy kim chee, or Japanese style with tender roasted pork. Below: Wokaholic’s dry-pot shrimp with Sichuan peppercorns is spicy heaven. Cooked in a traditional broth and served over rice, the shrimp dish is packed with exciting flavors.

Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au! Stunning sunset views from the oceanside venue Traditional imu ceremony Delicious all-you-can-eat Hawaiian cuisine Open bar featuring beer, wine, Mai Tais and more On-stage hula lesson Authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances Three-man Samoan fire knife dance! Receive a FREE GIFT when you book online at

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Maui Mixology

THE SKINNY ON HOLIDAY COCKTAILS You say all you want for Christmas is to get through the holidays without packing on the pounds? Or that after behaving yourself all year, you are so ready to party? Well, glad tidings, sugarplum. We’re unwrapping a pair of cocktails to help you celebrate the season—and they’re good, for goodness’ sake.

Skinnyrita

Courtesy of Fairmont Kea Lani’s Luana Lounge Yield 1 cocktail | Calories 105 1.5 oz. Tequila 1 oz. lime ½ oz. Truvia

1 dash orange flower water optional: cocktail salt to rim glass

Fill a tall glass with ice. Pour in above ingredients and stir. Enjoy! You’ll find more of Fairmont Kea Lani’s low-cal cocktails at MauiMagazine.net/holiday-cocktails.

Chai Mango Lassi

DJ “Drink Master” Villa created this holiday cocktail for Westin Nanea’s Sip to Support program, which donates a portion of each Chai Mango Lassi sale to a local charity. Mahalo nui loa to DJ and The Westin for sharing this recipe—and to everyone who participates in Sip to Support. Yield 1 cocktail 1.5 oz. Ocean Vodka 1 oz. mango purée 1 oz. coconut syrup, such as Coco Lopez, or homemade coconut-crème syrup* ¾ oz. chai tea concentrate (recipe at right) Combine first 3 ingredients in a cocktail glass. Add crushed or small-cubed ice, and

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float with chai concentrate. Garnish: Fresh mango slice or pineapple tiara Chai tea concentrate To get this super-extracted, very pungent tea, steep 8 bags (we use TAZO) in 16 oz. of 200° water. Strain the bags and cool the concentrate. This should keep for 2 to 3 days. *This easy recipe for homemade coconut syrup comes from Kindred Cocktails: In a medium saucepan, combine 1 c. simple syrup, 1 c. shaken coconut milk, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let cool. Preserve with a few oz. of white rum.

TOP: COURTESY OF FAIRMONT KEA LANI; BOTTOM: WESTIN NANEA

Courtesy of The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas

dining guide

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

» B = Breakfast »BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » D = Dinner »N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » RR = Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2018

WEST SIDE

are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $

A‘a Roots, 5095 Napilihau St., Suite 3, Napili Plaza, 298-2499. Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L. $

Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $

Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Alchemy Maui, 157 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 7932115. Nutty veggie and white--cheddar burgers, bahn mi bowls with lemongrass chicken, and mojo pork for Cubanos on freshly baked sourdough—all served in this quasi-industrial setting. Don’t forget the Valley Isle Kombucha. International. L. $-$$ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia

Auntie’s Kitchen, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$ The Banyan Tree, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Hokkaido seared scallops with smoked pork belly. Kula corn and farro risotto with Hāmākua mushroom. Smoked rib-eye steak, Ali‘i mushrooms and cheddar potatoes. . . .Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Breakwall Shave Ice, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite island flavor. Treats. $

Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. For breakfast: Surfing Goat Dairy cheese crêpes with Kula strawberries or croque-madame made with Hawaiian sweet bread filled with kālua pork and Gruyère mornay sauce. For dinner: Kaua‘i prawns and Kona kampachi with beet dashi, kabocha squash, or mushroom Bolognese over yaki soba noodles. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6670585. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food. Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS DINNER: 5:30PM TO CLOSING LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: UNTIL 11PM 808-667-CIAO (2426) TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 VILLAGE ROAD KAPALUA RESORT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT BEST BAR BEST ITALIAN BEST COCKTAILS BEST WINE LIST Gold 2017 Gold 2017 Silver 2017 & 2018 Gold 2018 Silver 2018

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Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 6670908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fiftiesdiner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Down the Hatch, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha . . . great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N, RR. $$ Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 6675353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, D. $$–$$$$ Foodland, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0975. Don’t let the fact that it’s a supermarket fool you. From spicy ‘ahi and sesame-shoyu octopus, to Korean shredded dried ika (squid), these poke choices will boggle your mind. But order up! Folks are waiting in line behind you! Second West Maui location: 345 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-7088. Poke. $ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy crunchy island style poke tacos and Tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho on rice noodles, corn and sweet pep-

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

286 KUPUOHI STREET AT THE TOP OF LAHAINA BUSINESS PARK

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

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dining guide pers in rich ginger beef broth. Second West Maui location: Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6677733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat-cheese-and-arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemon grass miso salmon and Duros pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Free ocean views. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$

Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing.

Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$

Myths of Maui, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119. Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

MauiGrown Coffee Company Store, 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728. If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $ Maui Sugar Shop, 700 Office Rd., Kapalua, 6620033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Mauka Makai, Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400. Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

Mauka Makai The Award-Winning Difference Enjoy our daily a la carte menu, or experience our two weekly buffets where keiki five and under eat for free: Friday Night Pa‘ina features a pulehu (grill) action station, Banana Steamed Fresh Catch and a signature Poke Bar. Sunday Brunch serves up King Crab legs, Prime Rib and a variety of fresh salads accompanied with bottomless Mimosas and Beermosas.

For more information or to make a reservation, call 808.662.6400.

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Monkeypod Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763. See South Side listing.

Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 632 Front St., Lahaina, 6623456. See North Shore listing. Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. After working hard on that round of golf or that outing at the beach, you deserve a treat. Grab a refreshing appetizer of lime-marinated ceviche with house-made tortilla chips, or a New York-style pastrami sandwich. Hawai‘i Regional/American. L. $–$$$

G o 20 1 ld, 8 ‘A Be ipo st Ne no A w w Re ard st a s u ra nt

EXPERIENCE MAUI’S MOST EXCITING OCEANFRONT LUAU!

A TIMELESS BEACHFRONT RESORT

• Shell lei Aloha greeting

• Set on award-winning

Kaanapali Beach

• Complimentary Mai Tais and open bar

• Fully renovated guest rooms and suites

• Imu ceremony • All-you-can-eat Hawaiian buffet • Exclusive buffet for keiki (kids)

• Open-air, oceanfront dining

• Enchanting song and dance performances

• World-class tennis ranch

• Awe-inspiring fire knife finale

• NO RESORT FEES

• Breathtaking backdrop of Maui’s spectacular sunset

RESERVATIONS

808-201-8010 | MythsOfMaui.com/mnko

2780 Kekaa Drive, Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761 HawaiianHotels.com | 1-800-22-ALOHA

dining guide Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

Restaurant open daily at 10am 335 Keawe St, Lahaina Gateway 808-661-9111 Check truck locations on Social Media

Ask about Special Events Catering! Call 280-9371

Lahaina’s Best Woodfire Pizza • Maui’s most unique collection of FresH toppings and infused crust oils • Amazing sandwiches, salads & Homemade Desserts • dough made fresh daily • comfortable, causual air-conditioned dining in the heart of lahaina!

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Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. World-class mixology by Junior Bumanglag. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$ ROCKsalt, Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features Hawai‘iproduced spirits and house-made infusions. Kidfriendly. International. B, D. RR. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the ocean. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$

brick oven flavor! ★★★★★ on

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6673200. Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$

505 Front St Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761 surfsidepizzamaui.com | (808) 793-2650

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

HAWAIʻI–INSPIRED

FILIPINO ASIAN CUISINE SHORT RIBS - HASH LOCO MOCO - MAUI CATTLE COMPANY BURGERS - FISH TACOS FRESH POKE - CRISPY PORK LUMPIA ROLLS STIR FRY VEGETABLE PANCIT NOODLES

(808) 214- 5590 LOCATIONS AT

NAPILI PLAZA WHALERʻS VILLAGE

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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dining guide

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar—one more reason Sea House won 2018’s ‘Aipono Award for Best Happy Hour. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shaka Sushi, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911. Bet you can’t say “Shaka Sushi” five times fast—not when you’re chowing down on their tasty omelets in the a.m., bentos at lunchtime, or some of the nine specialty sushi rolls served at dinner. Asian. B, L, D. $-$$ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 226 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-9000. Head to the refrigerated section for a huge selection of fresh ‘ahi poke prepared in Maui’s ethnic flavors of the rainbow: Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Hawaiian, plus poke bowls made to order. Poke. $

Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Terrace Restaurant, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the awardwinning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919. Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. And for dessert? Sticky rice and mango. Yum! Thai. $–$$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 Togoshi, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868--0307. Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ Akamai Coffee Company, 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251. Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm. Coffee Shop. $ Amigo’s, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic

mahalo for your votes! top 100 places to eat in the u.s. -yelp 100 best restaurants for foodies in america -open table restaurant of the year 2018 - maui no ka oi magazine ai pono awards

808.667.5117

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| 127 lahainaluna road, lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761 | www.lahainagrill.com

NPK-SH-MNKO-HalfPgAd-0318.pdf

3/9/18

6:05 AM

Award-Winning Oceanfront Dining Breakfast: 7am–2pm, Lunch: 9am–2pm, Dinner: 5:30–9pm, Sea House Bar: 8am–10pm, Happy Hour from 2–4:30pm, Pupus from $6 Gluten-Free Dining Available

808.669.1500 seahousemaui.com RESTAURANT, BAR & TERRACE

Celebrating Over 55 Years at the Beach

Located at the beautiful Napili Kai Beach Resort Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Napili, Hawaii 96761 www.napilikai.com

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dining guide WWW.ALOHAMIXEDPLATE.COM • 1285 Front Street, Lahaina, HI • (808) 661-3322

S AME

• ALWAY S LOC AL

Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays —when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out/eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. Try the new Juice Bar! American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. American. L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$•Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234 D.

As Seen on

Guy Fieri’s “Triple D”

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ 5 Palms Restaurant, Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul Bermudez navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific. Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style. Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Foodland, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9350. See West Side listing. Poke. $

Azeka Place, Mauka

(808) 891-MISO (6476)

1279 South Kihei Rd. #108, Kihei 112

MauiMagazine.net

MisoPhat.com

Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793675. Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $ Second location: 120 Ho‘okele St, Kahului, 793-2356

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Four Winds II, 11 Mā‘alaea Boat Harbor Rd., Mā‘alaea, 879-8188. Breakfast, lunch and cocktails aboard this catamaran make the trip a fun and delicious adventure. American. B, L. $$ Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$

2015

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2017 BEST ITALIAN

BEST ITALIAN

Humuhumu, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Bit-o-Sushi appetizer, kale and burrata salad and ‘ulu gnocchi are a few of Chef Mike Lofaro’s original creations. Foraged ingredients, too! Splendid mixology! Pacific Rim. D. $$$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kamana Kitchen, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888. Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Lehua Lounge, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. $ Lineage, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., The Shops at Wailea, 879-8800. World-famous “flying saucers,” Simeon family pork and peas, and whimsical ochazuke toasted rice guri-guri. Chef Sheldon Simeon’s playful take on plantation cuisine will keep you coming back for more! Pacific Rim. L, D. $-$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

2015 BEST ITALIAN BEST NEW RESTAURANT

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BEST ITALIAN BEST NEW RESTAURANT

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BEST ITALIAN BEST NEW RESTAURANT

2015 BEST ITALIAN BEST NEW RESTAURANT

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BEST ITALIAN

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Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$ The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Mendo Maui, located in the food truck lot behind Azeka Mall Mauka, 1 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 7555760. Fresh ramen noodles, Korean mandoo and kimchee. Follow them on Instagram: @MendoMaui. Japanese/Korean L, D. $ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, D. $$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Mulligans on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131. Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, D, N. $–$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Nutcharee’s Thai Food, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender

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braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$ Ono Gelato Kīhei, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 495-0287. You don‘t have to go to Italy to enjoy a great gelato. And how’s this for a scoop: Ono makes gelato not only in traditional flavors, but also with local tropical fruits that will have you coming back for more. Treats. $ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing. Piko Café and Restaurant, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2671. Fried rice or buttermilk pancakes for breakfast, bento lunches for the beach, plus dry mein, waffle dogs, burgers, katsu, killer salads, and a signature dessert: haupia-chia-ube pudding. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L. $ The Pint & Cork, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. The best mac-andcheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! International. L, D, N. $–$$ Pita Paradise, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 8797177. Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kababs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$$ Pizza Madness, 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 894-8880. See West Side listing. Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$ Seascape Restaurant, Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068. Located next to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up great harbor views with a side of sweet aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfpound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge, on a buttery cookie-crumb crust. American. L (daily), D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$

DON’ T JUST EAT DINNER EXPERIENCE IT From fresh farm-to-table dining options at our signature restaurant, Ka’ana Kitchen to the islands newest most exclusive lu’au experience, The Feast at Mokapu, allow dinner to be more than just a meal. Allow it to be an experience you take home and remember for a lifetime. EXPERIENCE DINNER WITH US BY CALLING +1 808 573 1234 OR VISIT US ONLINE AT WWW.ANDAZMAUI.COM

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dining guide Shearwater Tavern, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2324. Gastropub food and drink have never been finer, as partners D.K. Kodama and Chuck Furuya tag team the bar and kitchen to create a venue worthy of your attention. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Wolfgang Puck’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 91 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 891-2420. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff greet you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/ Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted-garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, wine, and Maui Brewery selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sun), L, D (Thur–Sat). $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing. Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono (excellence) perfectly describes their pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. Taro veggie burgers and poi açai bowls with fresh fruit are delicious spins on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Foodland, 90 Kane St., Kahului, 877-2808. See West Side listing. Additional Central Maui locations: 370 Kehalani Village Dr., Wailuku, 244-4460; Sack N Save, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 244-0356. Poke. $ Fork & Salad, Puunene Shopping Center, 120 Ho’okele St. Unit 330, Kahului. 793-3256. See South Shore listing. Kahili Restaurant, Kahili Golf Course, 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Wailuku, 242-6000. Friday dinner buffet and Sunday brunch include poke, snow crab, beef prime rib, and housemade desserts. Live music, too! Breakfast all day, every day, with specialties of the house such as Asian fried rice and locomoco with kālua pork. B, L, D. $-$$$

Traditional dishes of Mexico brought by the culinary trained husband & wife team from Mexico City, Ofir and Zuki. Their passion for Mexican cuisine and centuries old family recipes allow them to create masterful flavors–Lobster Enchiladas, Mole, Pozole, & Chile Relleno to name a few. Buen provecho!

1279 S Kihei Rd, Ste 122 (Azeka Mauka) | (808) 868-4357 | Mon.– Sat. 11a.m.–9p.m. | roastedchileshawaii.com 116

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dining guide Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $ The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707. Home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Poi by the Pound, 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381. Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawaiian. B, L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 873-8000. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: Tamura’s Express, 841 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-0957. Poke. $ Thai Mee Up, Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369. Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026. See West Side listing. Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikakecrusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. UMI maui, 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 2691802. Winner of the Silver ‘Aipono for best new restaurant, this ramen/sushi bar brings creative presentations to old Wailuku Town. Japanese. L, D. $–$$

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Feeding your soul never tasted so good. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

call us at 808-579-8877

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LUMERIA Maui

IKI THAI CUISINE T I K I T

After your long drive back from Hana, or on your way to the airport stop for a delicious meal at Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Maui’s newest authentic Thai restaurant in Kahului across from Savers in the Dairy Center, down from Office FedX. And now, Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine II, once again Mauis newest most authentic Thai restaurant, in the Wharf Cinema Center across from the famous Lahaina Banyan Court Park, Front Street Lahaina. Relax and enjoy absolutely delicious Thai food. Uncle careful your level of spice and Anti B we put no M.S.G. Taste our house favorites: Thai style Filet Mignon in Creamy Thai Chili Sauce; delicious Panang Curry; or our famous Volcano Fish. Excellent vegetarian selections. You will love every bite. We cater weddings, reunions, private parties. Performing traditional Thai dance at both locations. Lahaina: Mon & Thurs 7pm to 9pm | Kahului: Wed & Fri 7pm -9pm

KAHULUI Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine 395 Dairy Road (808) 893-0026 Open Daily 10am–10pm

LAHAINA Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine II Wharf Center, 658 Front St. (808) 661-1919 / 283-5202 Open Daily 10am–10pm 2 hours free validated parking at Wharf Parking Lot

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More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Ice cream, sandwiches and espresso served in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad- and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Soups and sandwiches served with fresh local greens, but a favorite with diners is the portobello mushroom and bacon burger . . . need we say more? American. B, L. $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing. Foodland, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 5720674. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and madefrom-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For

lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $–$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$–$$$$ Kojima’s Sushi, 81 Makawao Ave., Pukalani, 573-2859. This third-generation, family-owned restaurant offers classic and modern sushi, combination bentos with teriyaki salmon, and California rolls consistently served with aloha. Sushi. D. $–$$ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8781313. The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best blueberrymango scones. On weekends, muscle past longdistance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. No credit cards. French/Bakery. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $ Lumeria’s Wooden Crate, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877. Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the basis

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for some of the garden dishes served at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrées like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kāluapork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $

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Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American/Pizza. B, L, D. $–$$. Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maplefennel sausage and roasted veggies make this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Jaws Country Store, 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 419-6887. Dig into a poached egg on sourdough toast with tomato, caramelized onions and pesto; or try a poke bowl with mac nuts, avo and Maui onions. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 5798488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$– $$$$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$

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nyloS, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354. Fresh out of the gate, this fine-dining restaurant has been garnering rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, RR. $$$ Paia Bay Coffee and Bar, 115 Hāna Hwy. Unit G, Pā‘ia, 579-3111. On the backside of San Lorenzo Clothing Company in Pā‘ia is one of Maui’s hidden jewels wrapped in a lush tropical garden. Crowds line

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2018

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dining guide

importers & distributors of the world’s finest wines since 1973

For all there is to celebrate this holiday season, find the perfect bottle of wine to share with your family and friends. When you enjoy a bottle of Chambers & Chambers wine, you can be confident that the quality of our wine will honor your guests.

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

up and order fresh croissants and breakfast sandwiches. Espresso drinks and mimosas, too. Going on a hike? Order a sandwich to-go! B, L, D. $-$$

fee shop has served delish, freshly baked goods. The full breakfast and lunch menus are also well worth the look. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798030. Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $

Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Asian-influenced cuisine is served in cozy comfort in a historic inn. Try the crabcake appetizers with spicy aioli, and fresh fish over rice pilaf. Asian/American. D, RR. $–$$$

Paia Inn Café, 93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004. Strawberry-papaya parfaits, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a delicious (and photo-worthy) cheese platter served with honeycomb to sweeten the deal. Originality shines at the Inn. International. B, BR. $–$$

Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-totable fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start the day with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$.

HĀNA Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hānasourced produce and fish ground an original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808565-6962. For eighteen years, this mom-and-pop cof-

So get ready to raise your glass and prepare a toast... a toast that celebrates everything you have experienced, achieved, and endured... express gratitude for everyone who has supported you throughout the year. Forty-five years ago, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants started as a small family affair, and still remains in the Chambers family today. We would like to raise a glass to our customers, partners, & staff for their commitment and efforts to reach this milestone and we look forward to the exciting years to come!

global portfolio knowledgable team exceptional service @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi @ChambersWinesHI Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community Since 1979 www.chamberswines.com

Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celebrity chef Matsuhisa-san has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe Lawenko at this beautiful open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$

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calendar

Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

Novemb NOVEMBER

DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

and conceptual works. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2-3

THROUGH NOVEMBER 9

Mālama Wao Akua Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui and East Maui Watershed Partnership collaborate on this multimedia juried exhibition to raise awareness about the importance of protecting native species and the forested upper regions of our islands’ watersheds. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; MalamaWaoAkua.org

THROUGH NOVEMBER 25

Above the Fold: New Expressions in Origami Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Origami artists from four continents present a look at modern advances in this art form. In these artists’ hands, origami has evolved in remarkable new directions, including large-scale installations

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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on a wooden handle), 10 a.m.-noon, November 4. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

Tango Extravaganza Castle Theater, MACC Hawaii Symphony Orchestra concert master Iggy Jang joins award-winning dancers Guillermo Merlo & Fernanda Ghi, bandoneonist (concertinist) Javier Sánchez, and pianist Alfredo Minetti for an evening of tango music. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Made in Maui County Festival A&B Amphitheater, MACC This popular festival highlights some of Maui County’s finest products—from specialty foods and fresh produce to jewelry and collectibles— plus product demonstrations, a fashion show, prize drawings and more. Purchase an Exclusive Shopping Day ticket ($35) for admission on Nov. 2, 1:30-6 p.m. On Nov. 3, the festival runs 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. with $5 admission. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com

2-4

Cultural Workshops Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Native Hawaiian artist and cultural practitioner Keith Maile will teach the following hands-on workshops: Talk Story and Kupe‘e (bracelets), 5-6 p.m., November 2; Pahi Aku Lure (fish lure), 9 a.m.noon November 3; Kepa Lima (bone mounted

Nov 2, Dec 7 Nov 9, Dec 14 Nov 16, Dec 21 Nov 23, Dec 28 Nov 30

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

Arbor Day Giveaway Maui Nui Botanical Gardens The Gardens will give away 1,000 native Hawaiian trees, one per person. Enjoy plant-care demos, cultural activities, and talk with experts. 9 a.m.-noon. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Pilina Aloha: The Inseparable Relationship of Mele and Hula Castle Theater, MACC Celebrate Kamaka Kukona’s 2018 win for Male Vocalist of the Year and his 15th anniversary as a kumu hula with Hālau o Ka Hanu Lehua. Special guests include Nā Hoa, Waipuna, and a reunion performance by ‘Ale‘a; preshow entertainment in Yokouchi Courtyard by Kū i ka Wā. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

9-10

Hula o nā Keiki Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Some of the finest young dancers compete in ancient and modern hula, chant and costume. The weekend also features demos and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts. 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; 661-0011; KBHMaui.com

9-10

Kumu Kahua Theatre: Pakalolo Sweet McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Junior Boy is a young Hawaiian man who comes from a line of marijuana growers. During a night of partying, the medical uses, benefits, and cultural aspects of marijuana in pre-contact Hawai‘i are explored. The show includes smoking on stage, coarse language, adult themes, and loud sound effects. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER (2); COURTESY OF HUI NO‘EAU; COURTESY OF MADE IN MAUI COUNTY; COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Clockwise from top left: Through November 25, Above the Fold | November 17, Dirty Heads | November 19, Hui Holidays | November 2–3, Made in Maui County | November 28, Lee Brice

NOVEMBER HIGHLIGHT

Nothing in Hawaii is boring. Not even cheese & crackers.

Noble Chef Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Top Maui chefs present “Moulin Rouge,” with wine tastings and a three-course banquet. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine sponsors this event that benefits the UH-Maui College Culinary Arts Program. Reception at 5:30 p.m., followed by dinner at 7 p.m., entertainment, live auction and dessert finale. 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Lahaina. Reservations: NobleChef. Maui.Hawaii.edu

It’s an elegant new way to enjoy cheese and crackers with the exotic taste of Hawaiian fruit.

10, 12, 23-24, DECEMBER 22-23, 29-30

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

Day of Hope Run 10K & 5K Four Seasons Resort This scenic course takes participants through Wailea and Mākena and past sweeping coastal views. Proceeds benefit multiple cancer foundations, local hospitals and patients. 6:30 a.m. 2427661; PacificCancerFoundation.com

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www.mauifruitjewels.com

Dine Out for Hospice Maui Restaurants throughout the island donate proceeds from today’s sales to the nonprofit that provides compassionate end-of-life care. For a list of participants visit HospiceMaui.com.

Dirty Heads Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC Since the release of their 2008 debut album, the five-piece band has consistently experimented with their sunny style, leaning on reggae, hip hop, and acoustic sounds. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

19-21

Maui Jim Maui Invitational Lahaina Civic Center Top collegiate teams battle it out at this popular annual event that’s been giving basketball fans something extra to celebrate on Thanksgiving weekends since 1984. 1840 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina; MauiInvitational.com

COURTESY OF UH MAUI COLLEGE

-DECEMBER 24

Hui Holidays Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Explore jewelry, ceramics, photography, glass, paintings, fiber, holiday ornaments and more. 9 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. On November 28, Hui Holidays First Night includes shopping, drinks and appetizers, music, and wreath sale. 5-8 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

–DECEMBER 9

Elf the Musical Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this comedy based on Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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calendar the beloved holiday film. Follow Buddy the Elf in his quest to find his true identity. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

Peace on Earth Castle Theater, MACC Maui Choral Arts Association artistic director Gary Leavitt, pianist Lotus Dancer, and a chorus of singers kick off the season with a holiday concert. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Lee Brice A&B Ampitheater, MACC This country music star returns to Maui with hits including “Hard 2 Love,” “I Drive Your Truck,” and “That Don’t Sound Like You.” 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

DECEMBER HIGHLIGHT

DECEMBER

Wreath Making with Native Plants Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Learn to make a wreath from native Hawaiian plants for the holidays. $50 ($25 members). 9 a.m.-noon. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

BMI Maui Songwriters Festival A&B Amphitheater, MACC This festival is a star-studded country music lineup. A portion of the proceeds benefits the BMI Foundation, dedicated to encouraging the creation, performance and study of music. Time TBD. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

’Aipono Wine Dinner The Leis Family Class Act Restaurant Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s final wine dinner of 2018 will be “A Tour of Europe” featuring wines from France, Italy, Spain and Germany to complement the creative European-inspired cuisine of the Class Act culinary team. A portion of sales benefits UH-Maui College Culinary Arts Program. 5:30 p.m. Pā‘ina Building, UH-Maui College, 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului. Reservations: 984-3280

Decemb Na Loina Wa‘a—STEAM & Traditional Hawaiian Canoe Practices Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center This workshop provides ideas for STEAM (science, technology, engineering, art and mathematics) in the classroom. Participants discover traditional Hawaiians technology in the building of canoes. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

-DECEMBER 2

Hawai‘i International Film Festival Castle Theater, MACC Enjoy documentaries and film shorts, including premieres, experimental films, animation/digital works, and first features by new directors. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Holiday Pops Castle Theater, MACC The Maui Pops Orchestra rings in the season with a festive concert. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

All Time Low Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This chart-topping platinum-certified quartet recently released their seventh full-length album. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Holiday Tree Lighting Grand Wailea Resort The hotel flips the switch to more than eight miles of twinkling lights in this benefit for Boys & Girls Clubs of Maui. Enjoy holiday entertainment, cookies and cocoa, and a gingerbread village created

by children and the hotel’s pastry department. Complimentary valet parking. 5-6 p.m. 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-1234; GrandWailea.com

Green Room: Lewis Hyde and Matthew Zapruder McCoy Studio Theater, MACC In this next installment of the Green Room literary series, writer and MacArthur Genius Lewis Hyde and acclaimed poet Matthew Zapruder discuss why art matters. A book signing and reception will follow. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

WHERE EVERYONE’S A WINNER Jan 2-6, 2019 | The Plantation Course Tickets start at $15 sentrytournamentofchampions.com For more information call 808-665-9160 © 2019 PGA TOUR, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PLAYER APPEARANCE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI

December 30, Bill Maher

8-9

Nutcracker Sweets Castle Theater, MACC Maui Academy of Performing Arts presents 140 dancers and alumni in this delightful familyfriendly adaptation of the treasured holiday classic. Time TBD. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

TIME FOR A CHANGE

Alsarah & the Nubatones Castle Theater, MACC The group blends original and traditional music of central Sudan, and band leader Alsarah describes herself as a practitioner of “East African retropop.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

ber 14

Island Breeze McCoy Studio Theater, MACC A trio of world-class musicians—slack-key guitarist Jeff Peterson, shakuhachi (Japanese flute) master Riley Lee, and taiko drummer Kenny Endo—join to create new music. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

-FEBRUARY 17

Surfing Hawai‘i Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This exhibit honors one of Hawai‘i’s most beloved traditions, from its Native Hawaiian origin through the evolution of modern surf tourism. Surf board collections, ephemera, video, and contemporary works by artists Carol Bennett, Mark Cunningham, Pete Cabrinha, Peter Shepard Cole, Charlie Lyon, Wayne Levin, and Noble Richardson will be on view. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Santa Arrives by Canoe Grand Wailea Resort Santa makes his grand entrance on Wailea Beach, then hands out candy canes and takes photos with children on the Chapel Lawn. Complimentary valet parking. 9-11 a.m. 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-1234; GrandWailea.com

30 COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Bill Maher Castle Theater, MACC The man who opened the floodgates of funny political talk delivers his biting wit and social commentary. He will be joined by guest comedians Natasha Leggero and Wendy Liebman. Program includes mature subject matter. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

JANUARY

2-6

Sentry Tournament of Champions Plantation Golf Course, Kapalua Come root (shhh—quietly!) for this exclusive field of champions—every one of them a 2018 PGA Tour winner. GolfAtKapalua.com Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s January-February 2018 print edition must be received by September 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

StormWaterMaui_MNKO_4.625x9.67_Aug18_Final.indd 1

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2018

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9/10/18 1:07 PM

who’s who

At the Maui Emergency Operations Center in Wailuku, Coast Guard Executive Petty Officer Andre Pinault joins personnel from state, local and federal agencies in a briefing to coordinate efforts before, during and after the hurricane.

Smoke from last August’s fire drapes a ghostly veil over the slopes of Mauna Kahalawai.

In Kahului Harbor, Petty Officer Joseph Guajuardo checks the lines of a Coast Guard response boat ahead of a projected storm surge, readying the vessel to respond in Lane’s wake.

Firefighters douse tinder-dry terrain near Lahaina. Whipped by storm winds, flames spread over hundreds of acres in West Maui.

Maui Electric linemen secure power lines from a downed pole in Kā‘anapali. Crews worked round-the-clock to rebuild two main transmission lines and replace some forty-five poles in West Maui damaged by Hurricane Lane.

Makawao resident Lana Coryell snapped this photo of a County road crew tackling a eucalyptus KO’d by Hurricane Lane on Pi‘iholo Road. Clearing the massive tree with bulldozer and chainsaws took the better part of a day.

Workers from the DOT’s highway division, Maui County District, clear a section of roadway blocked by landslide. From left: Joe Ham (behind guard rail), Christopher Souza (operating the loader), Greg Fevella and Glen Fevella.

L-R: CGPO 1ST CLASS PATRICK KELLEY; MAUI ELECTRIC; HAWAII DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION

Near Lahaina, wildfires destroyed more than half-a-dozen homes and other structures.

L-R: COAST GUARD PETTY OFFICER 1ST CLASS PATRICK COAST GUARD PETTY OFFICER 1ST CLASS PATRICK KELLEY KELLEY; JAMES COOK/BBC NEWS; LANA CORYELL

EVERYDAY HEROES When hurricane Lane and tropical storm Olivia swept across the islands in August and September, they felled trees and power lines on Maui, and precipitated landslides along the road to Hāna. Wildfires burned homes and hundreds of acres of West Maui countryside as residents scrambled to evacuate. As the rest of us hunkered down, Maui’s first responders lived up to their name, acting swiftly to minimize damage and keep us safe. Here are a few of the everyday heroes who deserve our thanks and applause.

KE ALAHELE | Grand Wailea Resort | September 1, 2018 | Benefit for STEM education programs

MAUI ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT BOARD

L to R: Iolani Kuoha, Ann Arakawa, Leslie Wilkins, Emily Haines Swatek, Isla Young | Jennifer & Curtis Omura | Mark & Trisha Roy | Garrick & Deanna Garcia | Tim Tattersall & Errol Buntuyan

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The legendary shores of Kapalua Bay welcome your arrival.

Montage Memories Enjoy our special Montage Memories offer which includes accommodations, daily valet parking and a daily $60 breakfast credit at Cane & Canoe. Rates starting from $725 per night. Offer valid for travel dates from now through December 21, 2018. (888) 708-3835

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a perfect day on maui

Cheap Thrills STORY BY LEHIA APANA

Want to explore the island on a budget? Here’s where a little goes a long way.

8:30–11 a.m. Dip into your purse, check between the couch cushions, or survey your car floor. We’ll bet you can gather enough coins for Maui Swap Meet admission. This island tradition is a magnet for bargain hunters. Browse tropical-flower stands, creations by local artists, antiques, baked goods, jewelry and so much more. Visitors can find inexpensive souvenirs here, too, but beware: some are imported from elsewhere. Tip: Purchase a grab-and-go lunch to enjoy at your next stop. 50¢ admission; 12 and younger are free. 7 a.m.–1 p.m. Saturdays. University of Hawai‘i Maui College, corner of Wahinepio Avenue and Kahului Beach Road, Kahului; 808-244-3100; MauiExposition.com

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Wailuku

11:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Head mauka (towards the mountains) to the wildly lush ‘Īao Valley—or as Mark Twain dubbed it, the “Yosemite of the Pacific.” More than merely a scenic postcard, this area is steeped in Hawaiian history. In 1790, Kamehameha I, chief of Hawai‘i Island, defeated Maui ruler Kalanikūpule in a battle so bloody that warriors’ bodies dammed the river. No trace remains of that long-ago bloodshed. Instead, the valley’s Kepaniwai Park invites you to roam through Maui’s more recent history: at the colorful Heritage Gardens, life-sized structures honor cultures that contribute to Maui’s diversity, including a Japanese tea house and a Filipino farmer’s hut. This charming spot is picnic perfect, complete with ample cabanas. Further up the road is ‘Īao Valley State Monument, where a paved trail leads to Kūkaemoku, nicknamed ‘Īao Needle, a towering 1,200foot monolith carved by centuries of erosion. Heritage Gardens admission is free; $5 per car for ‘Īao Valley State Monument, free for Hawai‘i residents. 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily; ‘Īao Valley Road, Wailuku

2–4 p.m. Located in Wailuku and near ‘Īao Valley is the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House. The building contains a trove of Hawaiian artifacts, and is historic in its own right. Built in 1833, it began as a missionary school, and for many years was the home of missionary, educator, artist and inventor Edward Bailey. Arrive, and you can almost picture Olympic legend Duke Kahanamoku riding a wave on the 1919 redwood surfboard, or paddlers powering the thirty-three-foot Honaunau canoe, two of many pieces in the collection. The museum shop is another treasure, packed with island-inspired souvenirs and an impressive collection of books about Hawai‘i. $7 adults, $5 for Hawai‘i residents and seniors 60 and older. 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday–Saturday; 2375 Main Street, Wailuku; 808-244-3326; MauiMuseum.org

5:30 p.m. Sushi takes a whimsical turn at Wailuku hotspot UMI, where you can order a spicy tuna roll topped with potato chips, or a rainbow roll with kim chee butter foam. Sushi served 5–9 p.m. Wednesday–Saturday; ramen served 5–9 p.m. Sunday–Tuesday. 1951 E. Vineyard Street, Wailuku; 808-633-2502; UmiSushiMaui.com

7:30 p.m. Opened in 1928, the Historic ‘Īao Theater is an action-packed time capsule that continues to host some of the hottest tickets in town. Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra entertained under the ‘Īao Theater lights; today it’s home to community theater troupe Maui OnStage, which offers performances throughout the year—including O.N.O. (One Night Only), free stage readings, and other art forms the second Monday of every month at 6:30 p.m. Tickets range from about $20 to 40. 68 N. Market Street, Wailuku; 808-242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

Follow Lehia Apana on her “Perfect Day” at MauiMagazine.net/budget-adventure. MauiMagazine.net

TOP: JOHN GIORDANI; LEFT (3): LEHIA APANA

Maui Swap Meet

Find Your Aloha. Where the spirit of exploration meets the sweetness of homecoming, you’ll find Montage Residences Kapalua Bay. A modern take on resort living, free of pretense, alive with fun. Signature services and amenities are infused with the essence of a beloved place. Make the Montage experience your own, and reclaim the luxury of delight.

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This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.