Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine July-August 2019 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

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ments required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development ollectively, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Montageâ&#x20AC;?) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua minated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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Features

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60 At Home

HAWAIIAN COSMOS The ancient Polynesians used the skies to find these remote islands, and to thrive here. Story by Judy Edwards

HOME BREAK Pro surfer Dusty Payne builds on his love of Honolua Bay. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

35 Maui Style

54 Artist on Location

Maui photographer Andrew Shoemaker captured this image of Kā‘anapali Beach—a setting even the coconut palms seem to yearn for. Find more in our story “24/7 Sand,” page 35.

24/7 SAND Our favorite beaches, sunup to sundown . . . and beyond. Story by Kyle Ellison

48 Hawaiian Soul

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE Our managing editor treks into the jungle on a pig hunt. Can she bring home the bacon? Story by Lehia Apana

OIL ON WATER Ronaldo Macedo is drawn to places where land meets sea and sky. Story by Alma Tassi

About our Cover

RYAN SIPHERS

28 Adventure

Even when they argued, Molly Payne knew her client would love the interior design for his new home overlooking Honolua Bay. After all, he is her brother, pro surfer Dusty Payne. See story page 60.

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Departments 14 Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 Publisher’s Note

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 Talk Story

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ by Sarah Ruppenthal, Alma Tassi & Shannon Wianecki

24 Great Finds

CURRENT TRENDS We’ve got what floats your boat. ~ Compiled by Marluy Andrade

114 A Perfect Day on Maui

ROLLER COAST Follow your local guide around a wilder side of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana

« DINING »

Stories by Becky Speere

80 Dining Feature

DINE OUT, STAY INN What happens when an acclaimed restaurant adds its own boutique hotel? The difference is night and day.

88 Becky’s Backyard

Our fans get social.

THE CASE OF THE (ALMOST MISSING) LINKS It takes intestinal fortitude to turn wild pigs into homemade Portuguese sausage.

106 Calendar

92 Mixology

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

16 COCKTAILS Do try these recipes at home!

110 Who’s Who

94 Dining Guide

26 Tag, We’re It!

Seen making the scene on Maui

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island THIS ISSUE ONLINE Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in July). BACK ON BOARD Pro surfer Dusty Payne talks about his near-fatal wipeout and heroic recovery. See the video at MauiMagazine. net/Dusty-Payne-surfer. THE RIGHT STUFF Dining editor Becky Speere shares her recipe for yummy homemade links at MauiMagazine.net/Portuguesesausage-recipe.

Lahaina Grill slow-roasts its herbglazed Roma tomatoes, then dresses them with capers, olive oil and aged balsamic. Story starts on page 80. Find the recipe at MauiMagazine.net/ roasted-tomato-recipe.

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI

FOUR TO THE FLOOR Lineage Restaurant mixologist Aaron Alcala-Mosely demonstrates the cocktail he served at the 2019 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards. The recipe’s shakin’ at MauiMagazine. net/Disco-Mix-cocktail.

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Maui Healing Retreat Maui No Ka Oi 1/3 page, Vertical What did it take, 4c behind the2.2” scenes, for x 9.67” you to get the story? Due 05.14.19

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS

Michael Haynes

---------------- EDITORIAL ----------------

TRANSFORM

CREATIVE DIRECTOR John Giordani SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman

MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere

TRANSCEND

HOME & GARDEN EDITOR Sarah Ruppenthal

Offering life enhancing, soul-satisfying custom vacation experiences on Maui.

GREAT FINDS EDITOR Marluy Andrade

WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch For this assignment, I was using a new camera and lens. I had recently dunked a matching setup in the ocean, used all my insurance coverage for the year, and was out several thousand. I had no idea our hunt would involve crossing a strong river. I felt like a tightrope walker, holding my gear out in one arm while flailing around with the other, all the meanwhile praying like a death-row inmate. We must’ve crossed the river a dozen times! With each crossing, I had to take off each boot and empty about thirty ounces of water.—Mike Neubauer, “Where the Wild Things Are,” page 28

EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Mieko Horikoshi

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HEALTH & WELLNESS

IN-ROOM Maui Circulation

CLEANSE & DETOX

------------- CONTRIBUTORS -------------

SPIRITUAL AWAKENING

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Lali Groth, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Alma Tassi, Shannon Wianecki

WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT RELATIONSHIP REBOOT SINGLE SESSIONS

Ronaldo Macedo told me he still uses the same palette knife that artist George Allan gave him in the early nineties. The knife edge was burnished and worn. What struck me was this hint of nostalgia— and the admiration and friendship that endures.—Lali Groth, “Oil on Water,” page 54

During our interview, microphotographer Gary Greenberg told me he met Richard Donner when the director was working on the 1978 film Superman. After Greenberg showed him photos of cell nuclei that looked like craters on the moon, Donner hired him on the spot. What appeared in the movie as “planet Krypton” was actually pancreatic cells Greenberg filmed through the microscope.—Alma Tassi, “Sand-sational,” page 22

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Lehia Apana, John Giordani, Gary Greenberg, Mieko Horikoshi, Jason Moore, Mike Neal, Mike Neubauer, Douglas Peebles, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Tori Speere, Forest & Kim Starr

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I’ve nearly sacrificed life and limb while on assignment for this magazine. (Sorry, Mom!) Case in point: Stalking wild pigs in a remote West Maui valley for our Adventure story. But it wasn’t until I suggested driving through Kahakuloa via Kahekili Highway for the “Perfect Day” itinerary that my colleagues thought I’d gone too far. It meant navigating sinuous, singlelane roads propped on the edge of towering cliffs. I compromised by starting the drive from Nāpili so that I’d be tucked on the mauka (towards the mountain) lane of traffic.—Lehia Apana, “A Perfect Day on Maui,” page 114

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Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2019 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $24; Canadian subscriptions $47 (or $44 with auto renew); foreign subscriptions $67 (or $64 with auto renew). Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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“I need zest,” I tell my husband. He looks at me quizzically. “I think you have enough zest,” he smiles. “Oh, you know what I mean,” I say, nodding at the apple crisp I’m in the midst of making for friends we’re hosting tonight. “Hand me a lemon, please. Besides,” I counter, as I squeeze the juice of the now naked lemon into the mixture, “one can’t have too much zest!” Zest is not only my secret ingredient for all things delicious; it is also, as Bertrand Russell said, “the secret of happiness and well-being.” Of course, he was talking about a different kind of zest: the zest of living, loving, and embracing all that life has to offer. And of those essential elements to a happy life, Russell also reminds us, the one ingredient we can most certainly count on is change. “Man needs for his happiness not only the enjoyment of this and that,” says Russell, “but hope, enterprise, and change.” Change is in the air at Haynes Publishing Group. As we send this issue off to press, we find ourselves saying aloha to John Giordani, our creative director for the past eight years. If you have been following Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi during that time, you will have witnessed the gorgeous design and creative energy that have gone into each and every issue—telling our stories with beauty and sensitivity, always reflecting a respect for place and culture. John has been the creative force behind the national recognition we’ve received for design, photography, and storytelling. As I write this, he is preparing to move back to New York to be closer to family and explore the next stage in his career. Bertrand Russell would approve; the philosopher contended that those who live fully embrace change. ( John’s home state would also approve—its motto, Excelsior, is Latin for “ever upward.”) So we, too, will embrace change, and send John off with deep aloha, gratitude and appreciation. Happily, we have the joy of welcoming our new art director, Paul Morris, who, in a sort of topsy-turvy balancing act, is relocating from New York to Maui. We applaud Paul for his adventurous spirit (talk about zest!), and could not be happier for the gain. And there is more change . . . for the Haynes Woodburn family. I could not close this column without saying congratulations to Jon Haynes and my new daughter-in-law, Dr. Christi Gagner Haynes. Jon and Christi celebrated their wedding on May 11. And if we agree with Russell that zest is the secret to joy and well-being, Jon and Christi have a tight lock on a brilliant future. They sparkle with a joie de vivre that is both beautiful and contagious. Toward the end of their Hawaiian wedding ceremony, my sister and I had the opportunity to wrap the couple in my father’s prayer shawl for a moment of remembrance. “The ancestors are with us on this day,” Kimokeo Kapahulehua, our friend and officiant for the ceremony, told the guests. The mana (spirit) of those who came before us was palpable. In my son’s eyes, I recognized my father’s love. My father’s gift to us was an appreciation of life so great, that he could not, did not, differentiate the joy of loving from the joy of being. Perhaps that is the truest definition of zest. And the gift I wish for all of us. Change is inevitable . . . embrace it with zest. A hui hou,

whalersvillage.com Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI; BOTTOM: CASSIE PALI/CREATIVE ISLAND VISIONS

More Zest, Please

talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

in season

Trade winds are the prevailing gusts that blow across the tropics. In the Northern Hemisphere they blow from the northeast, in the Southern from the southeast. During the Age of Sail (roughly 1570 to 1860), these predictable breezes carried European ships across the Atlantic to the New World, and to this day they pitch hurricanes westward across tropical seas. But here in Hawai‘i, they’re mostly known for delivering perfect weather. Trade winds chase away humidity and vog (volcanic smog). When they hit Hawai‘i’s tall mountains, they produce rain; without them, the islands experience stagnant air conditions and sometimes drought. Luckily, northeast winds keep us cool nearly all summer and up to 80 percent of winter. These trusty gusts haven’t always blown. Climate scientists say that between 1140 and 1260 AD, westerly winds prevailed. Polynesian voyagers likely took advantage of them to further explore the Pacific—sailing to Aotearoa, Rapa Nui, and Hawai‘i. Hawai‘i’s first inhabitants had an intimate connection to natural

MauiMagazine.net

Story by Shannon Wianecki

phenomena, reflected in their language. ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i has thousands of words describing rain, fog, clouds, and winds. Some of these names are specific to certain areas; others refer to subtle differences in quality. The general term for wind is makani, the northeast trades are moa‘e or a‘e, and the southerly, leeward winds are kona. A particularly poetic wind name comes from Waihe‘e Valley in Central Maui: kili‘o‘opu refers to the scent of ‘o‘opu (freshwater gobies) steaming on the fire. In days past, these streamdwelling fish were reserved for royalty, but the aromatic wind broadcast an open secret: commoners living alongside the stream regularly enjoyed the forbidden delicacy. Were they punished for this indiscretion? The wind doesn’t tell. Whether caterwauling across the Pacific or whispering from a single valley, Hawaiian winds are full of surprises.

BOBBUSHPHOTO/ISTOCK

Fair Winds

Join Maui Stargazing for a science-based sunset and stargazing tour at Haleakalā Summit. View deep space objects through Maui’s largest portable telescope to see Saturn and Jupiter, nebulae and star clusters of the Milky Way and galaxies beyond!

ASA ELLISON

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

TALK STORY day in the life

Renaissance Man Story by Sarah Ruppenthal Photo by Mieko Horikoshi

NAME: Victor Pellegrino OCCUPATION: Farmer. Foodie. Poet. Professor. YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT: It only takes one conversation with Victor Pellegrino to reveal his multifaceted nature. And it only takes one visit to Noho‘ana Farm, his family’s two-acre, streamfront property in Waikapū, to understand what makes him tick. Here, Victor lovingly tends to a patchwork of organic crops. Among them: ‘ulu (breadfruit) that he grinds into flour for gnocchi; fragrant rosemary for homemade pasta sauce; and seven varieties of succulent tomatoes. Victor takes food seriously: Apart from pleasing his health-conscious palate, it connects him to his Italian roots. “If you want to know who I am, ask me about what I eat,” he says. CULTIVATING KNOWLEDGE: Long before he became a full-fledged farmer, Victor nurtured a love of reading and writing in the classroom. In 1967, after teaching stints in California and his hometown of Niagara Falls, New York, he was offered an instructorship at Maui Community College, now the University of Hawai‘i Maui College. It was a homecoming for his Mauiborn-and-raised wife, Wallette (the couple met in graduate school at Marquette University in Wisconsin). In the years that followed, he taught a bevy of literature and writing courses, and chaired the college’s language-arts division. When Victor retired in 1995, he was named professor emeritus of English. FIELD GUIDE: Victor now churns out teachable moments on the farm. With his son, Hōkūao, he delights in showing visitors how to plant, harvest, and prepare food (including kalo; more than forty varieties grow here) as part of Noho‘ana Farm’s experiential education program. TRACING HIS ROOTS: When he’s not teaching visitors about what grows at the farm, Victor is digging into the past. Not long after retiring, he plunged into his family’s genealogy. In 2002, he flew to Italy for the first time and tracked down some long-lost relatives; he’s made several trips since then to continue his ancestry research (and to expand his culinary repertoire).

Poems from a Farmer is available at Hale Ho‘ike‘ike and Native Intelligence in Wailuku, Kumu Farms at Maui Tropical Plantation, and from the author at Italiano@hawaii.com.

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EVERY PLOT HAS MEANING: Victor has authored fourteen books, three of them poetry. His most recent work, Poems from a Farmer, includes odes to many of the living things at Noho‘ana Farm, from a towering coconut tree, to an affable goat, to weeds sprouting in the garden. Victor penned his first poem in 1959, and sixty years later, remains inspired by the world around him. “When I write poetry, I wish to share with readers my feelings and ideas about the environment,” he explains. “Very simply, through poetry, I want to reconnect them to nature—particularly to land, water, air—and to themselves. I want to share through ‘word paintings’ both the beauty and wonder of nature, but also her fragility.”

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TALK STORY

Sand-sational Take a look at the period at the end of this sentence. Now you know the original size of the sand grains Dr. Gary Greenberg magnified more than 200 times to create the image on this page. Since 2001, the Maui biologist and photographer has been capturing everyday objects with the Edge 3D Research Microscope he invented, and transforming them into works of art. Where the naked eye sees black, red, or white sand, Greenberg reveals the spectacular variety of each grain: a pink-lined shell fragment, a

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Story by Alma Tassi | Photo by Gary Greenberg

Y-shaped glassy sponge spicule, a yellow sea urchin spine. For the photo below, Greenberg visited a Lahaina beach and collected sand that had been tumbled and polished by the surf. The creativity starts after a sample dries and he can examine the grains under his microscope. “It’s always a delightful surprise,” he says. “Every beach in Hawai‘i is different.” Before shooting a sand portrait, Greenberg maps the grains into a composition, arranging them with an acupuncture

needle. Software directs the microscope to take thirty to forty photos at different depths of field, discards any out-of-focus images, and creates one composite photograph. There’s more to his method than just a pretty picture. Greenberg says, “My mission is to make people aware of the incredible beauty of nature and [help them] gain an appreciation for the world we live in.” You can find more of Dr. Gary Greenberg’s microphotography—and how he creates it— at SandGrains.com.

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GREAT FINDS

Current Trends

Love the life aquatic? We’ve got what floats your boat. COMPILED BY MARLUY ANDRADE

JUST FOR KICKS Developed in Hawai‘i by Australian surf pioneer Andy Cochran, DaFiN is the go-to swim fin for lifeguards, bodysurfers, and ocean enthusiasts around the world. With no right or left difference, DaFiN can be worn on either foot. Available in a range of sizes and color combinations. $75 at Adventure Sports Maui, 400 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-7443, AdventureSportsMaui.com

A TAIL OF TWO EARRINGS It’s no fluke if these limited-edition earrings go to your head. They’re designed by Wings Hawaii co-owner Samantha Howard and are made of brass, glass enamel, and 14K gold fill. $125 at Wings Hawaii, 90 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-3110, WingsHawaii.com

SURF’S UP Take wave riding to another level—literally. Produced by Maui waterman Alex Aguera, Go Foil’s Kai hydrofoil set can be used with a variety of boards. Package includes front and tail wings, front and tail wing covers, and mast cover. $1,350 at Hi-Tech Surf Sports, 425 Koloa St., #107, Kahului, 877-2111, SurfMaui.com

FOR YOUR BABY’S BLUES Soft, flexible, and virtually indestructible, Babiators’ aviator sunglasses offer 100 percent UV protection for infants, toddlers, and kids. And they’re 100 percent adorable, too. Available in pink and blue. $22 at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792, NuageBleu.com

ABOVE BOARD The shorter-than-average length of Jimmy Lewis’s Flying V foil standup paddleboard allows for better performance, maneuverability, and glide; the extra width of this lightweight board gives riders more stability. Comes with a Tuttle box, plate attachment for maximum flexibility, foot straps and five insert options for them. 5’11”, $1,595 at Hi-Tech Surf Sports, 425 Koloa St., #107, Kahului, 877-2111, SurfMaui.com

6 7

BACK TO NATURE Local artist Kim McDonald celebrates Hawai‘i’s vibrant colors and culture in each of her pieces, including “Pink Sands,” which depicts Maui’s natural beauty and the femininity and strength of Polynesian women. Original oil on canvas, 20”x30”, $3,900 at Maui Hands (Pā‘ia store only), 84 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9245, MauiHands.com

RE-SAIL Sailbags Maui transforms discarded, landfill-bound kitesurfing sails into fun and trendy bags and totes. The nylon kite sails make these upcycled conversation pieces durable, lightweight, and water resistant. All bags are sourced and sewn on Maui. Medium clutch measures 9.5”x3”x8.5”, $29 at Sea La Vie, 106 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 359-1513, SeaLaViePaia.com

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Tag, We’re It! It’s official: Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Keep ’em coming! Follow @MauiMag on Instagram, then tag us in your photos, and we’ll share some of our favorites.

@ernieblackphotography “Today was one of those days where I swam out with high hopes. I was in the water for a couple of hours without seeing anything even slightly eye-catching and was just getting by on whale songs from the distance. After swimming across a long stretch of nothing but sand, I saw a small clump of reef with a bunch of Damselfish and this Porcupine Fish. I don’t think I’ve ever thought of fish as having personalities, but this one sure seemed to have one! I often swim down to try and photograph this species of fish and they almost always swim away very quickly, but this one was very different . . . I spent over a half hour with this one while it kept swimming right up to my face and camera while appearing to smile!” @aaronlynton “One of my favorite beaches” Editor’s note: We love Hāmoa, too, and put it on the cover of our July/August 2015 issue.

@joedomrad “The ever elusive Jacaranda Milky Way shot”

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@jb23usa “Maui” Editor’s note: Looks like Kanaio to us. Any guesses?

go beyond the beach and explore our

culture 2018

voted “best hotel in hawaiʻi”

1-808-661-0011 www.kbhmaui.com

ADVENTURE

Story by Lehia Apana | Photography by Mike Neubauer

“THEY’RE BACK.” The text arrives at 6:30 a.m. on a Wednesday, followed by the photo: snapped branches, yanked irrigation lines, and sludgefilled craters where neat rows of kalo and ‘awa plants used to live. The message is from my husband, Brad, who is walking our dog near the entrance to our farm on Maui’s north shore. No explanation needed. “They” are wild pigs. This isn’t the first time these destructive invaders have made a buffet of our growing beds. Resolved to take action, we call up a friend, who calls up his friend—because that’s how things happen in Hawai‘i—and by the following afternoon, reinforcements arrive in the form of an eight-foot-long, rectangular wire trap. We secure the contraption in a shady corner, tie the tripwire, and strategically place a trail of food scraps leading into the trap, à la Hansel and Gretel. “Call me when you catch something,” our new friend advises, and drives off. The timing was uncannily fortuitous: I volunteered to write this story, and was going on a pig hunt the very next day. Seriously. A few weeks previous, I contacted Lopaka Wilson, a hunter who grew up off-grid in a West Maui valley. Elder family members taught him to hunt, fish, cultivate and forage for food, and expeditions “into the valley” were the equivalent of a supermarket run. Lacking electricity, a cooler served as the family’s refrigerator.

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Wild pigs threaten Hawai‘i’s landscape in various ways, most seriously by accelerating native plant extinction and soil erosion.

Leader of his pack: Lifelong hunter Lopaka Wilson directs his fourlegged companions across a river in search of an elusive boar. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

“Hunting was always about subsistence,” Lopaka says. “At our house, you didn’t get to go hunting again until the cooler was empty.” Today his survival skills are providing his family with more than wild meat. Lopaka is a licensed hunting and fishing guide and the namesake behind Lopaka’s Aloha Adventures. When he’s not leading expeditions, he volunteers with Pu‘u Kukui Watershed Preserve to eradicate nuisance pigs. Growing up here, I never had to be formally taught that wild pigs are problematic. It’s just one of those things you understand, living in “the endangered species capital of the world.” Opportunistic ungulates such as feral goats and sheep have contributed to the problem, but pigs are the worst. It’s widely believed that early Polyne-

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sians introduced Asian domesticated pigs to these islands as early as the fourth century. Small in comparison to today’s feral porkers, these pigs remained around the family compounds and were a valuable protein source. When Captain James Cook arrived in the late 1700s, he introduced larger European swine, thought to be ancestors to today’s feral versions. These indiscriminate rototillers root up and devour native plants, and spread invasive seeds through their feces. Meanwhile, their muddy wallows are breeding grounds for mosquitoes that carry avian diseases. The list goes on: tusking that degrades trees, rooting that increases soil erosion and water runoff, and transmission of pathogens that diminishes water quality. Lopaka agrees to let me and photogra-

Clockwise from top left: Navigating through tall grasses—whose prickly leaves are nature’s equivalent of fiberglass—requires patience, not to mention a good long-sleeved shirt. GPS collars help hunters track a dog’s location using a handheld device. A metal enclosure allows Lopaka to secure his dogs in a particular order—for example, separating spunky dogs on opposite corners.

pher Mike Neubauer accompany him, albeit reluctantly. Local hunters tend to be tightlipped about their favorite spots, which may be on private land, and a pig hunt can be dangerous for the inexperienced. We’ll only be observing, since for me to hunt legally— that is, wield a weapon—would require passing a safety course and obtaining a license. Lopaka’s clientele primarily includes seasoned hunters wanting to experience Hawai‘i-style “dog and knife” hunting.

ADVENTURE

Above: Lopaka doubles as a kind of forest docent, pointing out edible and medicinal plants along the way. Right: He learned subsistence hunting by shadowing elder family members, and today shares some of that knowledge through his business, Lopaka’s Aloha Adventures.

We agree to meet in a mall parking lot for a crack-of-dawn start, and when Mike and I arrive ten minutes early, Lopaka is already there. He’s dressed in a mudstained orange shirt and cargo pants, and sports a no-fuss buzz cut and bristly beard. From a distance, you’d veer from him in a dim alley; up close, his kind eyes and boyish grin are magnetic. He exudes the warmth you’d expect from a hotel concierge, offering us boots, snacks and water bottles, then handing us matching shirts with his company’s logo on the front. In the truck bed behind him, Lopaka’s four-legged crew is silent except for the pitter-patter of paws. Their GPS collars connect to a handheld device that tracks each dog by name. Secured in a metal enclosure, they are packed like a bus full of kids on their way to school. Or in this case, work. Local pig hunters seldom use guns. In theory, dogs locate the pig, then corner or pin it down long enough for the hunter to arrive and finish it off with a knife. In reality, this method is far from simple. It’s still dark when we hop into Lopaka’s truck to start our expedition. He shares stories about growing up “in the boonies,” and reveals that his family roots in that valley trace back ten generations. Pretty soon we trade pavement for what looks like a dried riverbed. As we pass a pair of firmly worded “NO TRESPASSING” signs, I’m relieved to be entering this place with Lopaka. Our speed—or lack thereof—is better suited for a parade, but is necessary to navigate these muddy potholes and stray boulders. “How often do you replace your shocks?” Mike jokes. He’s met with a look that I interpret as “You don’t wanna know.” Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

ADVENTURE

Clockwise from top left: After fetching me a steady walking stick, Lopaka explains how to find the best path to cross the river. Pigs mark their territory by tusking and rubbing, removing bark from trees and exposing them to harmful insects and pathogens. Fresh tracks hint at nearby prey. One of the dogs cools off in mud-filled hollows left by wild pigs. Tracking the creatures requires traversing a variety of landscapesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and sometimes, waterscapes.

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Left: Once the dogs locate and capture a pig, it’s typically killed with a knife through the heart. Right: Just days after her hike, our writer traps two pigs on her farm. Overnight, the animals transformed the grassy terrain into a muddy wallow.

When we arrive at our first spot, Lopaka drops the tailgate and seven dogs speed past in every direction. Their noses trace the forest floor, until, at Lopaka’s command, they come leaping back to us. We hike under old-growth mango and ‘ulu (breadfruit) trees, past spiky hala (pandanus) formations and strawberry guava thickets. The dogs zig and zag around us, prompting advice from Lopaka: “If a dog is coming from behind, let ’em pass,” he warns. “They’re friendly, but they’re clumsy.” They are also on assignment. Following a scent, they work as a team—sprint ahead, dart up the ridgeline, circle back, repeat. In contrast, we tread steadily and slowly, tracing their spastic lead. I’m instructed to use my “library voice” to avoid accidentally summoning the dogs back to us. Besides, those clever pigs can hear us, too. As the dogs run literal circles around us, Lopaka is visibly in his element. He looks like a Hawaiian Edward Scissorhands as he waves a machete inches from his face to carve a path through the dense underbrush. His head swivels in every direction, looking for the signs: disturbed earth on the mountainside, animal tracks under his feet, muddy wallows besides the riverbed. We pause next to a mango tree, and Lopaka points to a splintery gash at its base. The broad scar hints to the animal’s size, and is akin to “Porky was here” graffiti. He explains, “When [the pigs] rub against the trees, they leave a distinct marking—it’s their signature. “That’s the big one,” he says, tracing the tip of his machete around the curved scar. He explains that these marks belong to a particularly clever boar that continues to evade hunters. On several occasions, the dogs dart out of sight, chasing a scent, eventually

returning unsuccessfully. Each time, we pause in silence, anticipating our next move. Lopaka’s eyes are fixed on his GPS monitor, his posture so still that I can see his chest rise and fall with each breath. Empty-handed, but not defeated, we return to Lopaka’s truck and drive a few valleys over, trading curtains of foliage and emerald-hued canopies for a landscape carpeted with spiky California grass that soars well overhead. Lopaka is among a handful of hunters legally allowed to hunt in this area, thanks to an agreement with the landowner who wants the pigs gone. Lopaka points out the signs: tusk marks on the bark, hair follicles imprinted onto the sludge, and incongruously dainty hoof prints. He’s a pig psychologist on a mission, directing his dogs to a ridge where he suspects the pigs have been loitering. Skilled hunters like Lopaka are a godsend for large landowners, many of whom have gone dizzy trying to keep up with the onslaught of wild pigs. His own relationship with these ungulates is a bit more complicated. “As a conservationist, I wanna get rid of all the pigs,” he says. “As a hunter, I also want some pigs around.” Again, the dogs sprint out of sight to chase a scent. A few minutes pass before Lopaka turns to me, grinning; he motions to his trembling knee. After a lifetime of hunting, he still feels the thrill, down to his bones. I’m equally on edge, staring into the brush and listening for distant yelps. Another ten minutes pass before the dogs return, tongues fully extended and gasping for air. It’s early afternoon. The dogs are tired, and so are we. We return to our meeting location, and as we say our goodbyes, I assure Lopaka that, even though we’re empty-handed, I am hooked. He offers to take me on another

hunt. I promise that this won’t be my last wild pig pursuit. Turns out, I am right. Two days later, Brad shakes me awake. “We got pigs!” he whispers emphatically. “Pigs?” I ask. “Yeah, two!” Moments later we’re standing outside the trap we set earlier in the week. The food scraps have been replaced by a pair of black pigs, and as the four of us stare at each other, I wonder, “Now what?” Our friends soon arrive and get right to work. Before I can process what’s happening, one hands me a knife and asks—no, tells—me that I’m “up first.” I’m motionless as bodies swirl around me, readying the pig. As if mimicking Lopaka’s earlier reaction, my knee starts quivering. I receive the “go for it” nod, and as the animal is pinned against the trap, I slip the blade behind its shoulder, into the heart. I imagine what our neighbors must think of this early-morning ruckus, then convince myself that they are thankful. They, too, have waked to find uprooted plants and thrashed growing beds. I’m certain they are troubled by the devastation feral pigs cause to our forests and watersheds. We spend the rest of the day butchering the pigs, whose meat will later be smoked, cured, and barbecued; the less desirable bits turned into dog food. Two fewer pigs are no big deal in the grand scheme of things. For Brad and me, this is major: Our crops are a little more secure, at least for now. We load the trap with fresh bait—leftover sweets that our friend assures us will keep the hungry animals coming back. Yes, they will be back. But at least now, we’re ready for ’em. For info on Lopaka’s tours, visit HuntFish Maui.com. To see how we turned wild pig into a local delicacy, turn to page 88. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

Photo Courtesy of Cambria

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MAUI STYLE

24/7 SAND More than sixty beaches hug Maui’s coastline, including four that have been named “Best Beach in America” by environmental scientist and author Steven “Dr. Beach” Leatherman. Choosing which stretch of sand to visit is an inviting tropical challenge; it could take months, if not years, to leave your footprints on all of them. To help, here’s a starter kit of beaches we recommend for the attractions they offer from morning to night . . . and beyond. STORY BY KYLE ELLISON PHOTO BY ANDREW SHOEMAKER Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

MAUI STYLE

BESt BeACh For AN EARLY-moRNing StroLL: SugAR BEAch, KEAlia

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How long is this sandy crescent along Mā‘alaea Bay? The exact length is up for debate (it runs into other named beaches near its southern end, in Kīhei), but it’s safe to say you could walk a 5K without having to turn around. Early mornings are quiet and still, and in the soft, pastel light of dawn, when the sun is rising behind Haleakalā volcano and casting shadows on the shoreline, there are few more scenic places for a stroll than here on Maui’s longest unbroken beach. As a bonus for cetacean fans, Mā‘alaea Bay is one of the island’s best places for spotting whales in winter. Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) hang out here, too, enjoying a nap on the sand, unperturbed by the teams of outrigger-canoe paddlers who stroke in unison offshore. The northern terminus is in Mā‘alaea, with parking at Haycraft Park. You can also begin in Kīhei, by Sugar Beach Resort, or in the middle, by Keālia Boardwalk. Alternate: Kahekili Beach Park in Kā‘anapali

PHOTO BY JOHN GIORDANI

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

BESt beaCH for a midmoRNing snoRKel: uLUa bEAch, waiLEa

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MAUI STYLE Even though Maui has three-dozen beaches with spectacular snorkeling from shore, this Wailea enclave stands out from the rest for its ease of access, protected conditions, and wealth of colorful marine life. Ulua’s amenities include showers and restrooms, plus free, though limited, public parking—you’ll want to get here by 10 a.m. if you hope to find a space. The reward is snorkeling in pristine conditions before the wind picks up. You can also reach Ulua on foot along the Wailea Coastal Walk, which borders oceanfront hotels. The best spot for snorkeling is around the lava-rock headland that separates Ulua from Mōkapu Beach below Andaz Maui resort. Here turquoise uhu (parrotfish) crunch on vibrant corals, and schools of manini (convict tang) dart through holes in the reef. Keep an eye out, too, for honu, hīhīmanu (spotted eagle rays), and he‘e (octopus). The waters may be rough when the wind is from the north (more common in winter), or when the summer surf is high enough to generate an advisory, but that’s just a few days per year, and the rest are downright gorgeous. Alternate: Nāpili Bay, Nāpili

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

BESt BEAch For BOOgie BoARding & LUnCH: HonoKAhua BAY

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MAUI STYLE

This Kapalua favorite can have breaking surf any time of the year. On days when the waves are playful and small, they’re perfect for kids and beginners; during large winter swells, and when summer trade winds are exceptionally strong and gusty, Honokahua is for experts only. But even if conditions are out of your skill range, watching from the beach as boogie boarders do backflips can be just as entertaining as riding the waves yourself. There are outdoor showers on both ends of the beach, as well as restrooms, picnic tables, and barbecue grills at adjoining D.T. Fleming Beach Park. Didn’t pack along your own food? Head to the Burger Shack, part of The Ritz-Carlton resort, where you can watch the waves break as you relax in a grove of forty palms. No wonder Dr. Beach named Honokahua the No. 1 Beach in America in 2006. Alternate: Kamaole Beach III, Kīhei

PHOTO BY KRIS NELSON INSET PHOTOS BY BURGER SHACK & NANCY ZAFFARO

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

BESt BEAch To SpENd A LAte AFtERnOOn WatCHing WatERspoRTs: KAnAHA BEAch PARk, KAHuLUi

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MAUI STYLE Did you know there’s a beach, complete with showers and restrooms, that’s less than a mile from Kahului Airport? It’s also a great spot to watch ocean athletes at play as they race and soar across the waves. The winds are strongest and most consistent in summer, which is when you’ll find standup paddlers, windsurfers, and kitesurfers equipped with hydrofoils attached to boards that allow them to cruise above the water. This is arguably Maui’s most active beach, as it also houses beach volleyball courts and an outrigger canoe club. Kitesurfers launch from the westernmost stretch of sand (known, for obvious reasons, as “Kite Beach”), whereas windsurfers stick to “Lowers” and “Uppers,” just in front of the lifeguard towers. Salty, fast-paced action aside, there’s a peaceful aura that drifts on the breeze as the sun dips low behind West Maui’s mountain and afternoon turns to dusk. Alternate: Ho‘okipa Beach Park, Pā‘ia

PHOTO BY JOHN GIORDANI

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

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MAUI STYLE

BESt BEAch For WatCHing THe SunsET: OneLOa BEAch, MAKENa StATE PaRK

While there’s no such thing as a bad beach on Maui for watching the end-of-day light show, Oneloa has some exceptional evening magic. It’s known locally—and affectionately—as “Big Beach,” since it stretches for nearly a mile and is spectacularly wide. Its size (and the fact that it’s completely undeveloped) creates a peaceful allure; regardless of how full the parking lot may be, you still get a sense of serene seclusion that’s backed by the soundtrack of surf. A surreal calm envelops Oneloa in the hour before sunset, when the sun dips toward Molokini Crater and suffuses the beach in soft orange hues. The park’s gates close after sunset, but if you’re not ready for the evening to end, drive to neighboring Maluaka Beach and watch the stars come out. Alternate: Keawakapu Beach, Kīhei

PHOTO BY ANDREW SHOEMAKER Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

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From Tahiti, Mo‘orea, Raiatea, Bora Bora and other Society Islands, Polynesians spread across the Pacific to far-flung Hawai‘i, Aotearoa (New Zealand), and Rapa Nui—islands that now frame the Polynesian Triangle. For these confident and supremely skilled wayfarers, the ocean did not divide, but connect, and the stars were ever overhead to guide them.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUGLAS PEEBLES

MICRONESIA

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Thousands of years before Europeans began their first tentative ventures beyond coastal waters, Polynesians were exploring the vast Pacific. Aboard double-hulled voyaging canoes—some of the finest open-ocean sailing vessels ever engineered—those ancient travellers arrived in Hawai‘i, becoming farmers and fishers, warriors and kings—a people descended from what current-day navigator and Hawaiian son Nainoa Thompson called “the astronauts of our ancestors, the greatest explorers on the face of the earth.” Once here, they used their meticulous observations of the heavens, their understanding of the movements of planets and stars, to thrive in this isolated archipelago.

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

H AWA I ‘ I

cosmos SAMOA

TA H I T I TO N G A

R A PA N U I

NEW ZEALAND

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

Navigating by the Stars The early Polynesian explorers had no tools for wayfinding—no sextant or magnetic compass, no GPS. Instead, they watched celestial bodies in the night sky, listened to the winds, felt the swells slap against, and move under, the wooden hulls. The flight of seabirds, behavior of clouds, patterns in the ocean and in the air informed their sense of where land might be. They lived in tune with everything around them, embedded in the pulse of the sea and the sky. The constellation known in the West as the Southern Cross has a Hawaiian name: Hānaiakamalama, “foster child of the moon.” It’s visible in the Northern Hemisphere only up to the twentieth parallel—the latitude of the Hawaiian Islands. Watching for the distance between its top and bottom stars to equal the distance between

Left to right: The first Polynesian voyaging canoe built in modern times, Hōkūle‘a has become a metaphor for Hawai‘i’s cultural renaissance. Chad Kalepa Baybayan aboard the Hōkūle‘a, circa 2005. This time the journey was to the Northwest Hawaiian Islands of Nihoa and Mokumanamana. Seen here in Satawal in 1983, Mau Piailug uses a star compass to teach celestial navigation to his son. The Micronesian master is credited with restoring what had become a lost art among Hawaiians.

the bottom star and the horizon helped Hawaiian navigators of old to find their way home. The colonization of the Pacific in the 1700s by Europeans in their single-hulled ships was so swift and total that the art and science of traditional Polynesian migration were obliterated in the Polynesian Triangle—that vast area bounded by Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in the east, Hawai‘i in the north, and Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the south—in just a few generations. The decline was so dramatic that theorists began to deny that deliberate Pacific navigation by the ancients had ever been possible. In the 1970s, in response to theories that the Pacific Islands had been settled by accident or a stroke of luck, the newly formed Polynesian Voyaging Society of Hawai‘i built a sixty-foot voyaging canoe, a hybrid of natural and modern materials. They named the vessel Hōkūle‘a (“Star of Gladness,” a reference to Arcturus, the brightest star in the Northern Hemisphere and the guiding star for Hawaiian navigators), and in 1976, with the help

STAR COMPASS The Polynesian star compass divides the 360-degree horizon into four houses that align with the cardinal directions, and divides each house into eight sections, thirty-two divisions in all. As stars rise throughout the night, they are fixed in relation to one of the compass houses or points, and in this way, the navigator sets a track as accurate as can be. For celestial navigator Chad Kalepa Baybayan, the star compass is not an external apparatus, but an internalized environment that extends in every direction, with the canoe in the middle. He says, “Nainoa [Thompson] taught me this metaphor of the bird and the canoe. He cut out a paper canoe and bird and put the bird on the table and spun it around. Birds are never lost at sea; they have an internal compass. If the head of the bird points in one direction, the tail [points to] the opposite. Same with each wing. The bird doesn’t have to see what’s in front of him if he knows what’s behind him. Nainoa put the canoe on the table and said, ‘The canoe and the bird are the same thing.’”

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ABOVE, L–R: DOUGLAS PEEBLES; KAIMANA BARCARSE; STEVE THOMAS; LEFT: TRADITIONAL MICRONESIAN NAVIGATION COLLECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I–MĀNOA LIBRARY

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Kāne

Lono

Mauili

Muku (Full)

MIKE NEAL

of one of the last traditional Polynesian navigators in the world, a man from Satawal named Mau Piailug, they sailed Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti and back in triumph. Four years later, mentored by Mau, the Society did it again. Chad Kalepa Baybayan, now navigator in residence at the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center in Hilo, was aboard. “When I sailed in 1980 it was like stepping back in a time machine,” he recalls. “The black silhouette of a crab-claw sail against the starry backdrop . . . at that moment you are as close to your ancestors as possible.” Between 1985 and 1987, the Society sailed Hōkūle‘a surely and steadily around the islands of the Pacific and back to Hawai‘i, putting to rest forever the idea that the movement of Polynesians around the Pacific was anything less than adroit and deliberate. Nainoa Thompson was the first contemporary Hawaiian to master the Polynesian art of navigation. He schooled himself in Western academics before learning from Mau the more subtle but powerful older ways of navigating. Baybayan says this hybrid approach is now the way young navigators train. “It’s still an indigenous art, but there’s a lot of science involved. “In the seventies, there was so much we had to learn,” Baybayan recalls. “We were just trying to stay afloat. As we got more proficient we got more profound. Then the question became, What’s the canoe? Well, it’s the Earth, an island floating in a sea of space.”

Kūkolu

Kūpau

‘Olekūkahi

‘Olekūlua

Hilo

Hoaka

Kūkahi

Kūlua

Planting by the Moon There’s an ‘ōlelo no‘eau (Hawaiian proverb) said of ignorant people: Kamali‘i ‘ike ‘ole i ka helu pō. “Children who do not know the phases of the moon.” For early Hawaiians, such knowledge was more than a memory test. Based on generations of observations linking outcomes to celestial changes, kaulana mahina (the Hawaiian lunar calendar) told them when to plant which crops, identified good times for harvesting, fishing or mending gear, and established kapu or sacred days for honoring the gods. The Hawaiian malama (month) includes thirty phases, grouped into three ten-day periods: ho‘onui (increasing), poepoe (round or full) and emi (decreasing). The name ‘olekūkahi marks one of seven moon phases beginning with ‘ole, a word meaning “nothing” or “without” that signals unproductive times for starting new projects. If you want to put fruit-bearing plants into the ground, wait for hua, a night sacred to the god Lono, and good for many-seeded plants. Online and print calendars provide easy-to-read charts, but it’s not that simple. “You have to pay attention to the seasons,” says Maui-born Kalei Nu‘uhiwa, the “queen” of the Hawaiian moon calendar. For her graduate studies, she plumbed old Hawaiian newspapers to understand how the calendar was woven into the fabric of life. “Kaulana mahina is a place-based tool,” she says. It requires practitioners to observe the world around them and to be clear about

‘Olekūkolu

‘Olepau

Huna

Mōhalu

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

their objectives. She asks, “Are you on the dry side or wet side of the island? Do you want the leaves or the corm of the plant to be big? How much effort do you want to exert?” Calculations, timing and planting practices differ depending on the answers. Good farmers and gardeners have always tuned in to changes in weather, soil, moisture, and other variables that might affect crop yield or floral blooms. Farmers’ almanacs have long promoted planting during the full moon. So why learn thirty different phases, further complicated by permutations based on season, place and objective? “Because it works,” says Kalani Pe‘a, who developed a project-based learning curriculum several years ago for Waihe‘e Elementary School. Pe‘a told his students about watching his grandfather successfully grow kalo (taro) in tires on pāhoehoe rock on the Big Island by following the moon calendar. And then he challenged them to develop and test hypotheses to answer the question: Is the Hawaiian moon calendar planting and fishing guideline true or false? His students planted lettuce on hoku (the third and fullest of the four full-moon

This spread, clockwise from top left: The huna, mōhalu, hua, and lono moon phases are times to plant ipu (gourds). ‘Ulu (breadfruit) and other trees should be planted during lā‘au phases. During mōhalu, akua, hoku, and kū phases, plant kalo (taro). ‘Uala (sweet potato) is best planted from hua through kulu phases, and all the kū phases.

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phases) and ‘olekūkahi days, controlling for the number of seeds, soil, water, and sunlight. The result? “Our kūpuna [ancestors] were pololei [correct],” Pe‘a says. Lettuce grew huge in the hoku pots. In some of the ‘ole plantings, no lettuce grew; in others, the plants were less vigorous and died sooner. Can the Hawaiian moon calendar help all of us live more sustainably—wherever we are—while deepening a sense of place? Whether we name the moon in English or Hawaiian, plant by her light to grow prizewinning pumpkins or doubt such connections exist, we might not be able to escape her influence. Might as well learn to count the nights. Celestial navigation text is taken from Judy Edwards’s story “Wayfinders,” which ran in the March/April 2014 issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. “Planting by the Moon,” by Teya Penniman, appeared the March/April 2015 issue. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

Plein-air painter Ronaldo Macedo is drawn to the places where land meets sea and sky. STORY BY LALI GROTH | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON MOORE

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ARTIST ON LOCATION

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

ARTIST ON LOCATION

he ocean has always played a major part in artist Ronaldo Macedo’s life. Growing up in Rio de Janeiro on a hill overlooking the Atlantic, Ronaldo would head down on his bike with his surfboard under his arm to Ipanema Beach, where he’d meet his friends at the spot they called “Garcia’s.” “All my memories of Rio are of beaches, boats and surfing,” he says. From Rio to Redondo Beach and the surf breaks along the southern California coast, Ronaldo made his way to Lahaina in 1994. “I came to surf and stumbled onto the art scene here. I met [longtime Maui artist] George Allan, and my life took a different course. I started painting outside. That’s what’s so appealing about plein-air [painting outdoors], you don’t have to be at a desk.” Ronaldo had a gift for drawing from an early age, and his family’s move to Los Angeles during his high school years led him to pursue a degree in illustration at Long Beach State. After graduation he began river guiding in northern California. “Being on the river was such a big dose of nature and water. I kept my sketchbook in a dry box, and whenever I had down time I would draw.” Even after moving to Maui, Ronaldo traveled for river excursions. “I’d raft [all] summer, then return to Maui to paint and surf. Every

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time I left, my inventory would get low and the gallery would say that they wanted to replace me with another artist, so I got the memo.” By 1998, Ronaldo was a full-time Maui resident, and good thing, too, because that’s when he met Jennifer, whom he would marry. “She came to Maui to learn to surf. She was a snowboarder, so she was a natural. I met her surfing at Lahaina Breakwall and, well, you know,” he says, smiling. By 1999 they had bought a place in Puamana, and in the fall of 2000, had their first child, Summer. “Once you buy a house and have a kid, painting is not a luxury anymore, it’s a job. George Allan told me once that you got to paint a hundred paintings a year, so that’s what I shoot for.” We talk several times. Once, Ronaldo calls me while he is driving to Ironwoods, a surf break just north of Kapalua, where eighteenyear-old Summer is training. Ronaldo likes to watch from the beach so he can give her feedback—where she’s hitting the wave, if she’s getting enough power and speed. He first took Summer surfing when she was two, and her brother, Ocean, who is two years younger, when he was one and a half. “We were able to surf a lot in front of our house. I did paintings of them. I surfed with them.” Over the years, the kids graduated from Puamana to Lahaina Harbor and eventually Honolua

Light and water fascinate Macedo, especially on Maui. “We’re in the middle of the ocean, with trade winds blowing, so there’s little pollution to diffuse the light. You can look across the channel to Lāna‘i and see a lot of color.” Case in point: “South Swells” (left); the 30”x50” oil on canvas depicts Lahaina Harbor and the island of Lāna‘i beyond. Above: Ronaldo’s notebook sketch of a Clavey Falls camp on California’s Tuolumne River. Below: a still life on surfboard in “Happy Hour,” an 18”x24” oil-on-canvas.

Bay. Soon it became all about surfing. Jennifer would pick them up after school at two, and they’d surf until five. Ronaldo remembers, “I’d be really jealous because I had to work/paint, and they would get to go surf. I think their love for the ocean is because they were nurtured by the ocean. The beach was our front yard; it was our playground.” It still is. Summer holds one state title, two national titles, a junior world title, and in 2018 was selected as a wild card for the World Surf League’s Women’s Championship Tour event at Honolua Bay. Ocean, who has one national and two state titles, qualified for WSL’s Junior World Championship in 2018. Ronaldo is every bit the proud father. Although he no longer competes, back in the day Ronaldo entered longboard events and Hawaii Surfing Association contests at Breakwall and Ho‘okipa. “You should see our house,” he says. “It’s full of boards.” It’s also full of trophies. Ronaldo often accompanies his kids on their surf competitions to other islands, and even to other countries. The portable nature of plein-air painting allows for some great results. “I got the idea for ‘The Gathering Place’—a Waikīkī Beach scene with the iconic pink Royal Hawaiian [hotel] in the background—when I went Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

ARTIST ON LOCATION

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OPPOSITE, TOP LEFT: WESLEY LARSEN; OPPOSITE RIGHT: TONY HEFF

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Summer rips it up at her home break, and brother Ocean surfs O‘ahu’s North Shore. Ocean’s damaged surfboard finds new life as art in “Sunset from Polo Beach/Wailea.” “Aloha Lahaina” takes an ocean view of historic Pioneer Inn beneath West Maui’s mountain in this 14”x18” oil on panel. Summer, Jennifer, Ronaldo and Ocean at Puamana. Above: “Macedo Family Surf Sesh,” oil on board

iwith Summer to O‘ahu for a WSL event. I did a small painting on site and a larger version in my studio.” Ronaldo’s smaller plein-air paintings often become studies for larger works. His medium is oil on paper, or when travelling, acrylic on illustration board. “In a quick study, I can get down the colors, the values, the cools and the warms.” Ronaldo admits that his technique has changed over his thirtyyear career. Early on, he painted with a palette knife, but later traded the knife for brushes, “because on location I like to paint on panels, and [the knife] doesn’t work well on panels.” His style, too, has changed. “The palm trees I painted twenty years ago were completely rendered; now I want to focus on shapes and color and brushstrokes.” He credits plein-air painting for this evolution. Ronaldo has participated in juried and invitational events in Hawai‘i and on the mainland, including the Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational, which he cofounded. “The interaction with and feedback from other painters made me a better painter. I changed to a looser, less rendered style that is more about lighting and shapes—not just duplicating what I was seeing, but making something that was my own.” Ronaldo also changed to a simpler palette of primary colors: lemon yellow, cadmium yellow, cadmium red light, alizarin crimson, ultramarine blue, cerulean blue. “I like working with primary colors because the greens are coming from the yellows and blues, and everything stays harmonious.” Inside his studio on Dickenson Street, Ronaldo shows me stacks of studies. As I look at these three-by-fives of ink on paper, and oil

brushed on squares of canvas, a Picasso quote comes to mind: “Painting is just another way of keeping a diary.” For Ronaldo, painting is a journal entry, a way of recording a memory. “Here’s one from Australia.” He holds a study of a rocky coastline with an ocean pool. “See that beach in the background?” He runs his finger along a hue of sand. “That’s Kiama, where Summer and Ocean competed. And here’s one from Turtle Bay, from 2017, at the Junior Pro Event.” Every study is associated with a time and place, and often a reference to his children. There are black bound sketchbooks, too, one from river trips in 1994, and in a later journal, circa 2001, a pen-and-ink sketch of his theninfant daughter sleeping. The first surfboard Ronaldo ever painted was one of Ocean’s that “buckled, folded” when he was surfing Sunset Beach. “For a long time, Steve Kemper, who works at Lahaina Galleries, kept bugging me about it, ‘When are you going to paint on a board, Macedo?’” A senior art consultant, Steve is also the father of Billy Kemper, Big Wave World Tour champion and frequenter at Jaws, Peahi. Finally, when Ocean offered up his board, Ronaldo painted a scene from Puamana, “Tropical Days.” He’s now on his fourth surfboard painting. If there’s one painting that defines Ronaldo’s feelings about his family and his art, it’s “Macedo Family Surf Sesh,” created in 2010. “The kids were little, and they were all going to go surf at Shark Pit. I got my stuff and set up and painted there. It’s a day I remember so clearly.” And it’s a painting that so clearly reflects how well Ronaldo balances work and family, painting and surfing, always dancing with a brush or board at the ocean’s edge. See more of Macedo’s art at Lahaina Galleries, 736 Front St., Lahaina; 3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; and LahainaGalleries.com. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN SIPHERS

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AT HOME

uil b e n y a ty P s u D r e f Pro sur

. y a B a u l ono H f o e v o sl ds on hi

In the strategically positioned master bedroom, glass sliders open to a covered lānai with sweeping views of Honolua Bay and the island of Moloka‘i across Pailolo Channel. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

The first time Dusty Payne laid eyes on the Kapalua property overlooking Honolua Bay, he was sitting in a hotel room in southwest France. Even from half a world away, he knew it was the perfect spot to build the home he’d longed for ever since he was a kid. “I’ve been surfing Honolua Bay my entire life,” he says. “I always dreamed of owning a place that looked directly over it.” A professional surfer, Dusty carved out a name for himself at an early age as a wave-riding prodigy. He’s now one of the sport’s most respected figures, earning admiration for both his natural athleticism, and his stoicism after a near-fatal accident on O‘ahu last year. He’s also a familiar face in the lineup at Honolua Bay,

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Top: In the bright and airy kitchen, black fixtures and soapstone counters accent white cabinets and walls. The blackand-white color scheme is tempered by stainless-steel appliances, white-oak floating shelves, hood detail, and butcher block on the center island. Molly added charming details like an accordion pass-through window over the sink, and a waterfall countertop. Left: Durable concrete roof tiles masquerade as wood shake. Opposite: The front entry was framed in ipe wood to match the lānai and create a cohesive look. Molly hand-stained the white-oak pivot door dozens of times until it was the perfect shade of black.

AT HOME

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

AT HOME

Above: A concrete fireplace anchors the lofty, light-filled great room, flanked by shelves and built-in bench seating. Over the fireplace, a customizable art TV displays a photo taken by the late hall-of-fame surfer and artist John Severson. Molly designed the teak coffee table and chairs, and had them custom made in Bali and shipped to Maui. Left: That’s Molly, perched on a center island topped with soapstone and butcher block. The counters are from Restoration Hardware.

home to a legendary right-hand point break. Over the years, Dusty has ridden waves at iconic surf spots around the globe (and won his share of competitions), but says he’s always felt the gravitational pull of Honolua Bay. So when his brother, Dylan, a realtor, told him about the vacant parcel for sale in Kapalua three years ago, he was instantly intrigued. At the time, Dusty was in France for the 2016 Quiksilver Pro surfing competition, so Dylan gave him a long-distance tour of the four-and-a-half-acre lot, using the FaceTime app on his iPhone. The moment the sweeping ocean views appeared on his phone’s screen, Dusty was sold on the property. He made an offer from Europe, and not long after, started planning his dream house. Three items topped his architectural wish list. For starters, he wanted a northwest-facing master bedroom so he could wake up every morning and scope out the waves in the bay before even getting out of bed. He also needed a garage roomy enough to fit two pickup trucks and an ever-growing collection of surfboards, and he had his heart set on a large covered lānai for outdoor entertaining. Dusty enlisted Maui architect Jeremy Stoddart to design a single-story residence that would tick all three boxes and capitalize on the lofty vantage. Jeremy used a compass to pinpoint the ideal

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AT HOME

The master bathroom has an oversized steam shower, as befits a hardworking pro athlete.

A soaking tub dials up the master bathroom’s luxurious ambience. Above: The siblings teamed up to design the master bedroom’s teak platform, which was custom built in Bali. Weighing 400 pounds, the massive frame nearly dwarfs Dusty’s California king-size bed, and eliminates the need for nightstands. The print above the headboard was enlarged from a photo by family friend and surf photographer Amber Mozo; below it sit a pair of decorative throw pillows by Alola.

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position for the home (and, specifically, the master bedroom) and hammered surveying pins into the ground to mark the footprint. After a bit of fine-tuning—moving pins three degrees to the right, a hair to the left—he and Dusty agreed it was angled perfectly. Jeremy’s blueprints were right on the money, too: three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a high-ceilinged great room, media room, 1,000 square feet of ocean-facing lānai, and a 1,000-square-foot garage. Once the home’s layout was finalized, Dusty sat down to consider its aesthetic. “I didn’t want to build just another stucco box,” he recalls. “I

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Left: A vanity of white oak and Carrera marble floats above the porcelain tile floor in the master bathroom. Right: White subway tiles and black fixtures add vintage flair to the guest en-suite bathroom.

wanted the house to feel like it had been there forever, but had been modernized and updated.” He tapped the expertise of a then up-and-coming interior designer: his sister, Molly. In 2014, fresh out of the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, Molly returned to Maui to launch her own fashion line, Alola, and also oversaw the renovation of a 380-square-foot barn on their parents’ property in Lahaina, transforming it into a scaled-down version of a French farmhouse. Impressed with Molly’s handiwork, Dusty recruited her to make design decisions for his new home. “It’s funny having to listen to Molly chose an eclectic mix of furnishings and accessories for the guest bedroom, including a solid pine bed from Wayfair, teak console table from Hale Zen (a home goods store owned by family matriarch Lisa Payne), and a “Pray for Surf” banner Molly ordered from Etsy and took to Lahaina framer Don Mathesius (aka Don the Framer).

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AT HOME

Left: The home was still under construction when Lisa Payne snapped this photo of her son, but we imagine Dusty was already picturing himself walking out the door and heading to the surf. Right: Yes, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wood on the shower floor; Molly wanted to seamlessly connect the guest bathroom to the ipe-wood lÄ nai outside. To pull it off, she had the planks treated with a clear-coat, water-resistant stain and installed atop subfloor sleeper joists for drainage.

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What would you hang in the hallway leading to the master bedroom to give it a pop of color? If you’re Dusty Payne, you choose a board shaped by surfing legend Gerry Lopez.

your little sister, and it took a minute to get used to that dynamic, but there’s no one else I would have trusted more,” he says. The siblings admit there were a few good-natured disagreements. “I pushed for a lot of things . . . and I won most of the battles,” Molly laughs. Dusty agrees. “She made me reconsider every decision.” One friendly arm-wrestling match came when Molly suggested a gas fireplace for the great room to create a cozy focal point. Dusty was initially resistant (a fireplace in balmy West Maui?), but eventually conceded. And he’s glad he did: He likes to thaw out next to the flames after a long day of surfing and on cool winter evenings. Dusty did wield his veto power on occasion. He quashed the idea of a pool—after all, the ocean is his swimming pool—and opted for a backyard putting green instead (golf is a runner-up to surfing). When it came to the overall look of the home, brother and sister were on the same page. Dusty had envisioned a design that would endure for decades, and says he couldn’t have been more thrilled with Molly’s modern-meets-plantation-style aesthetic. The predominant colors are white, black, and grey, chosen for their versatility and crisp, clean feel. And, Molly says, “There’s so Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

AT HOME

much color all around us . . . why compete with it?” Natural wood is another recurring theme, from the large-plank European white-oak floors to the ipe-wood lānai. Construction was fully underway, and Molly was busily picking out fixtures and finishes, when the unthinkable happened: On January 8, 2018, Dusty was rushed to Queen’s Medical Center in Honolulu after a horrific wipeout on O‘ahu’s north shore. He spent more than two weeks in the intensive care unit with his jaw wired shut and six metal plates in his head. As he recovered in the hospital, Dusty became increasingly eager to see the property—in fact, it was one of his first stops after he was discharged and flew back to Maui. He says the nearly complete 3,500-squarefoot residence exceeded his expectations. “After being gone for a few months and not really knowing what was going on with the build . . . seeing it for the first time, I was in awe,” he says. “That’s when it finally felt real. It was kind of a pinch-me moment.” Four short months after his accident, Dusty was back in the water. Three months after that, he moved into the house of his dreams. And it’s a good thing the fireplace is flanked by built-in shelves perfect for displaying trophies, because last fall, Dusty Payne started competing again. “I’m grateful to everyone who helped make this house a home,” he says. “It was definitely a team project . . . and a labor of love.”

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Clockwise from top left: The home’s layout accommodates Dusty’s post-surf routine. First he unloads his boards onto wall-mounted racks in the garage, then rinses off in the al fresco lava-rock shower. Sand-free, he deposits his salty gear in the adjacent laundry room before heading inside.

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AT HOME

Celebrating 45 years of decorating Maui

Above: Pocket doors slide open to an ocean view stretching all the way to Lāna‘i. Molly designed the outdoor pieces and had them constructed in Bali. Clockwise from top: The warmth of wood—in floating shelves, counter stools, hood detail and butcher-block atop the center island—tempers the kitchen’s cool white palette and stainlesssteel appliances. The living room’s plush L-shaped sofa is from Living Spaces; Molly found the pillows on Etsy.

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Chardonnay beurre blanc drizzles onto seared catch of the day atop herb mashed potatoes and sauteĂŠd spinach. In the background, porcini-studded Carnaroli risotto pairs with 2017 Alit chardonnay. Opposite: The building opened in 1938 as a general store. In 1960, the second floor became a hotel with this cozy downstairs reception area.

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STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

wake at 3 a.m., my brain doing the mental equivalent of drooling. In my dreams I’ve been feasting on shichimi ‘ahi and foie gras with fig compote and luscious Maui onion demiglace, then taking that blissful first bite of crisp and sweet Kula corn, fire-roasted and buttery, served alongside trufflechive crème fraiche laced corn soup—part of the dinner my husband, Chris, and I enjoyed at Lahaina Grill not four hours ago. And instead of the long, late drive back across the island to our Huelo home, we’re tucked in cozily two floors up, at Lahaina Inn. I drift back into slumber and a second helping of food-filled dreams. Last night, as Chris and I began our first course, paired with Chateau Gravas Sauternes redolent of honey, ripe apricots and a hint of ginger, we were joined by Jurg and Linda Munch, owners of both the restaurant and the inn. Over the course of a leisurely meal, our genial hosts shared what you might call a love story. . . . Born in Switzerland, Jurg was two when his family moved to the Philippines in 1960. “My father managed an export company that manufactured textile equipment,” he says. “We moved back home when I was ten. I grew up loving food and cooking, so when I turned eighteen, I chose to enter the culinary profession. I was fortunate to apprentice at some [of the top] properties in Zurich, and [at] Hotel Jungfrau Victoria in Interlaken. I also worked at Switzerland’s [then] only Michelin Star restaurant, Chez Max, a nouvelle cuisine venue.” He grins at a memory: “I arrived at Chez Max for an interview, but I never saw or spoke to the chef, although I did eat his food—for two hours—while [unbeknownst to Jurg] he watched me from the kitchen.” To his surprise, he says, “I got the job!” In 1986, Jurg accepted an executive sous chef position at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. He’d been at the job for two weeks when the executive chef left for vacation, and Jurg found himself in charge

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Dining

Opposite page: Over the years, Lahaina Grill’s ambiance has stayed much the same—especially now that the restaurant, once a de facto gallery for Jan Kaspryzcki, owns the paintings.They used to sell faster than the Maui artist could replace them. The Grill’s timelessness is a stellar reflection on owner Jurg Munch. Clockwise from top left: Earthy seasonal porcini mushrooms stud risotto infused with butter and lobster broth. Aged balsamic and extra-virgin olive oil finish sweet, locally grown tomatoes sandwiching creamy buffalo mozzarrella. Dessert temptations include flourless chocolate-decadence cake with Lappert’s Kona-coffee ice cream, triple-berry pie, vanilla crème brûlée, sour-cream mousse and chocolate cake in Hawai‘i-grown dark chocolate ganache. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

Dining

Just off Front Street, Lahaina Inn is a boutique hotel in the heart of town. Along with free parking, guests enjoy access to amenities and services at Royal Lahaina Resort in Kā‘anapali (including the resort’s shuttle). Rocking chairs invite guests to linger and enjoy views that extend from West Maui’s mountain to the blue Pacific. The flags honor employees’ home countries.

of the hotel’s six restaurants, room service and catering, and managing eight sous chefs and 150 cooks. Jurg says, “Somehow I survived those two weeks, but it was really crazy!” A year later, he was promoted to executive chef of the property. They moved to Maui in 1997, and I can’t help asking them why. In my mind, relocating from Hong Kong to Maui would be like switching from a flashy, high-performance Maserati to a friendly but funky VW bus. Jurg says it happened in advance of the July 1997 “Handover,” when the United Kingdom transferred sovereignty over Hong Kong to the People’s Republic of China. By then, nearly a million people had emigrated from Hong Kong. Politics spurred their departure, but love picked the destination.

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“I had heard about Maui through my best friend, who traveled here to get married,” Linda says. “When we arrived for the first time—for our own wedding—we fell in love with the aloha spirit in the people we met, the amazing weather with lots of rainbows and sweet air. We felt so blessed and welcomed!” At the end of 1997, an ice cream shop on Front Street became their first Maui business. Linda says, “When we were introduced to Lappert’s Ice Cream out of Hanapēpē, Kaua‘i, we thought that it would be a great opportunity—and fun!—to own and operate an ice cream store. My uncle in Taiwan was involved with a Swensen’s ice-cream franchise and he gave us some good advice on operating the business and profit margins. Our new island life was quite the opposite of our

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Dining

pace in Hong Kong, but we embraced the change, and, of course, we were working night and day on our new businesses!” In December 1999, they purchased their second venture from longtime Maui chef David Paul, and kept the restaurant’s eponymous name for seven years. By the time David Paul’s was rebranded as Lahaina Grill, in 2007, it was operating like a Swiss watch. Presentday executive chef Arnolfo “Arnie” Gonzalez began as a dishwasher at David Paul’s. Under Jurg’s mentoring, he cooked his way up to the restaurant’s top kitchen position. “Chef Arnie and I collaborate on new dishes and we refine them together,” Jurg says. My first bite of perfectly seared foie gras and smoky ‘ahi—red and rare to the core—convinces me that it’s a divinely inspired collaboration, and so do the restaurant’s old favorites: tequila shrimp, and Colorado lamb in coffee-spice rub grilled to a tender, medium-rare finish. Jurg says, “We let all our proteins rest for fifteen minutes so the juices have a chance to settle and redistribute.” I nod appreciatively at the respect his kitchen has for the finest ingredients and time needed to create a dish that will exceed one’s expectations. In 2001, Jurg and Linda decided to purchase the building itself, which included the historic Lahaina Inn. “It was a wonderful opportunity,” Linda says. “Since we were already operating Lahaina Grill at that location, it just made sense to purchase [the building] and become our own landlords.” Jurg smiles and looks down at his hands, fingers entwined and relaxed on his lap, as he continues the tale. He has a deep and sincere

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regard for his team, and he’s humbled that so many have been with him at Lahaina Grill for more than twenty years. “[We] could not have been successful without their hard work and loyalty,” he says. The respect is mutual. Take Richard Olson, Lahaina Grill’s sommelier, whom Jurg credits with “taking our wines to another level.” Richard tells us, “I bussed here for two years before being promoted to waitstaff. [While] I worked on my Court of Master Sommelier certification, I was entrusted with the wine buying.” Jurg’s faith in him opened Richard’s world. “Visiting some of the smaller wineries and discovering a barrel of wine that can be exclusive to our restaurant is what I’m searching for during these trips. I can taste 400 different wines, but maybe four will be selected for our cellar.” He tells us he will soon be traveling to Spain and Portugal to add more “exclusive finds” to the 4,000-bottle wine cellar. Jurg shares that every evening, about a third of the diners are repeat customers. I overhear one of those returning guests, Carol Oelke, from Oregon, say to Jurg, “You not only have a gold mine here; you have a diamond.” As I look around the room, I have to agree. I’m impressed by the sense of ownership of the managers, hosts, servers and bartenders; and the welcoming and unpretentious manner in which they convey it. Lahaina Grill & Lahaina Inn, 127 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina | Restaurant reservations: 667-5117, LahainaGrill.com, OpenTable.com Hotel reservations: 661-0577 | Lahaina Ice Cream Parlour, 693 Front Street, Lahaina, 661-3310

TOP RIGHT & BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY OF JURG MUNCH

Clockwise from top left: Executive chef Arnie Gonzalez anchors the kitchen. Jurg and sous chef Perry Li at Hong Kong’s Mandarin Oriental in 1993, when Jurg was the Five Star hotel’s executive chef. Ice-cream impresario Walter Lappert sits with Jurg and Linda Munch in 1997, the year the couple purchased Lahaina Ice Cream Parlour. Twenty-two years on, the Front Street venue still serves Lappert’s Ice Cream, plus shave ice, specialty coffees made with Maui-grown beans, and more.

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i WWW.FEASTATLELE .COM

Becky’s Backyard

THE CASE OF THE (ALMOST MISSING) LINKS STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY TORI SPEERE

Top: With the author supervising at left, Lehia and Brad place strips of marinated boar onto the racks for smoking. Once cooked, the strips will be sliced for serving. Middle: Cleaned casings soak in water, ready to be turned into Portuguese sausage. Lehia dices the meat and fat, then places the mix in the marinade and refrigerates. Bottom: Filling the casings is a twoperson process.

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I am frantic. It’s eight in the morning, day two of lessons on how to make smoked meat and sausage, and I’m trying to locate sausage casings for the photo shoot for this story. Yesterday I showed Lehia Apana, our managing editor (and resident badass; see story on page 28), and her husband, Brad Bayless, how to slice wild-boar meat into strips to marinate in a secret sauce. (The recipe, shared by rock-star chef Sheldon Simeon, owner of Tin Roof and Lineage restaurants, you’ll find at the end of this story.) Then we diced ten pounds of the meat for Portuguese sausage and mixed it with garlic and spices. As my knife glided through the shoulder, I raved, “The fat in this pig is beautiful, Lehia. It’s pearly white, nothing like the commercial pork found in grocery stores.” She nodded, “That’s what our pig-trapper friend said when he butchered it. Probably really good meat from a steady diet of nuts from the old macadamia-nut orchards surrounding us.” I grew up in Hilo, and although I never ventured into pig hunting, it was practically a rite of passage for the boys in our family. My brother Thomas recalled navigating the rainforest: “There were no trails. We crossed streams and climbed over ancient, fallen trees draped in moss. We ran down slippery gullies, where old hāpu‘u [tree ferns] stood like sentinels in dripping greenness. Men and boys scrambled after wet dogs barking in the distance. The pigs were skillfully butchered in the forest and placed into homemade burlap backpacks. Everything was orchestrated from the moment you got up—at four in the morning.” The experience is not for the faint of heart, but then, neither is my hunt for elusive sausage casings. I’ve called all the usual suppliers on Maui, but strangely, the only answer I hear is, “Sorry. We’re sold out.” In desperation, I text Chef Taylor Ponte at The Mill House, hoping he may have a small amount. I plead, “All I need is enough to make ten pounds of Portuguese sausage.” Miraculously, he responds, “Come now.” My story will go on with the last necessary ingredient! I race to Waikapū, pick up the casings, and arrive on time at Lehia and Brad’s home. Lehia jogs up to greet me, her ponytail bobbing and

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Becky’s Backyard

Left to right: Brad Bayless and Ricky Apana coil the marinated links onto the racks, then place the racks into the smoker. Three hours later, the links emerge, sweet and red from kiawe and guava wood smoke.

swaying in the breeze, her body language exuding excitement. As I step out of the car, Lehia grins and gestures with both hands, as if introducing me to a new friend. “And here is our new smoker!” Five days earlier, when she shared that she and Brad had trapped a couple of feral pigs that had been tearing up their small farm, I said, “Hey, let’s make some smoked meat and sausage!” I suggested they come to my house (in the boonies), where I have a smoker, or perhaps Brad could make one out of tin roofing. Instead, she called her father, Ricky Apana, and lickety-split, he arrived with a smoker from Uncle Ron in the back of his truck, along with two stacks of dried kiawe wood and a bin of kiawe charcoal. Inside, the heavy-duty metal box has racks and holes in all the right places. “In its original life it was a control box for street lights, I think,” says Lehia, as she reads some scribbled handwriting on the metal. “My uncle turned it into a smoker, but doesn’t use it anymore, so he said, ‘Take it.’” As we clean and assemble my LEM-brand sausage stuffer, I realize that the threaded connector that secures the stuffing tube is missing. Without it, filling the sausages will be almost impossible. Brad dashes to the rescue! Well, really he dashes to the shed, comes back with the PVC fitting from a lawn sprinkler, scrubs it clean and manages to jury-rig the connection. We flush the white, luminescent pig casings

“Growing up on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, this family recipe has always been a very traditional part of our Hawai‘i food culture. Enjoy!”—Sheldon Simeon, chef/ owner of Lineage Restaurant in Wailea, and Tin Roof Maui in Kahului

SIMEON-FAMILY SMOKED MEAT Prep Time: 15 minutes to prepare the marinade, 3–5 days to marinate, then 2–3 hours to smoke the meat.

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with fresh water, and let them soak while we pack the first batch of meat for the sausage snuggly into the expresser canister. I untangle one of the casings and try to stretch it over the tube, but it’s too small. We switch to a narrower tube. Voila! Carefully, to avoid tearing the delicate casing, I slide it onto the tube. Brad then turns the canister’s crank slowly, and the diced meat begins to fill the casing, until a link a foot long extends from the machine. I show Brad and Lehia how to roll the sausage segments—one forward, the next backward—to create separate links. They move into position, taking turns cranking the handle, pressing out the meat, saying, “Forward . . . backward . . . forward. . . .” We giggle over our short-term memory failures: “Which way did the last link go?” Out in the backyard, the kiawe fire burns, smoke pouring from the vents. Brad sets off with loppers in hand to gather a few branches from a guava tree to add to the fire for a sweet and fruity smoked finish. When he returns, I say, “Let’s make sure the fire’s not too hot—no more than two hundred degrees. We want to smoke the meat for at least two hours and we don’t want to dry it out.” We tend the fire, tossing in green guava branches, creating billowing white clouds of smoke. I’m transported to my childhood. Waiting for the smoked meats to be done was always the hardest part.

INGREDIENTS 10 lb. pork butt or wild boar meat, cut into 2x2x12-inch strips 1 qt. Aloha Brand Shoyu 4 c. white sugar ½ c. sesame oil 3 pc. Hawaiian chili pepper 10 garlic cloves, smashed Fist-sized piece of ginger, smashed 3 stalks of green onion with bottoms, smashed

DIRECTIONS Marinate 3–5 days. Smoke with kiawe (mesquite) and guava branches (if available) on low heat (150–200°) 2–3 hours. Slice and fry in a little oil. Mahalo to Chef Sheldon Simeon for sharing his recipe for marinated smoked meat. Find the story’s second recipe and equipment list at MauiMagazine.net/ Portuguese-sausage.

Maui Mixology

DISCO MIX Lineage Restaurant’s Aaron Alcala-Mosley created a disco-inspired cocktail lineup for the crowd at MNKO’s 2019 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards, and shares these recipes—so you can boogie-oogie-oogie at your home bar. Don your funkiest ’70s look, turn up the music and the disco ball, and dance the night away!

COMPILED BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

FOUR TO THE FLOOR

(inspired by the Harvey Wallbanger) Yield: 1 cocktail

2 oz. Pau Vodka 11 2̸ oz. orange stock cordial (See below.) 1 dash Wallbanger Tincture (See below.) orange twist

BOOGIE MAN

(inspired by the White Russian) Yield: 1 cocktail 1½ oz. Paniolo Whiskey ½ oz. spiced coffee syrup (See below.) 2 oz. Earl Grey coconut milk (See right.) ground cardamom

1 c. sugar 1 c. water Place coffee and spices in a spice grinder and process to a powder. Place in a mason jar with water and mix well. Chill in refrigerator for 24 hours. Strain through cheesecloth into another mason jar. Discard coffee and spices. Add sugar and stir to dissolve. Keep refrigerated.

Pour whiskey and coffee syrup into a rocks glass. Fill with ice, then top off with coconut milk. Garnish with a sprinkling of ground cardamom.

Earl Grey Coconut Milk 1 11-oz. can coconut milk 3 bags Earl Grey tea

Spiced Coffee Syrup 2 tbsp. ground coffee 1 cinnamon stick 1 whole star anise 1 8̸ tsp. fennel seeds 4 green cardamom pods, smashed

Pour coconut milk into a saucepan. Add tea bags. Simmer on low for 5 minutes, or until milk starts to color slightly. Remove from heat and allow mixture to cool. Strain through cheesecloth and bottle. Keep refrigerated.

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Combine ingredients in a shaker, add ice and shake. Strain into a martini glass. Garnish with orange twist. Orange Stock Cordial Create an orange stock per instructions at TrashTikiSucks.com, but use orange rinds exclusively. Add 7 parts orange stock to 2 parts honey. Wallbanger Tincture 500 ml. Fid Street Gin 2 cinnamon sticks 1 vanilla bean, split 3 star anise 5 all-spice berries ½ tsp. ground juniper berries Combine all ingredients and allow to infuse for 3 days (shake daily if possible). Strain and bottle.

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dining guide

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

» B = Breakfast »BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » HH = Happy Hour » D = Dinner »N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » RR = Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2019

WEST SIDE A‘a Roots, Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Suite 3, Nāpili, 298-2499. Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L. $ Alchemy Maui, 157 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 7932115. Nutty veggie and white-cheddar burgers, bahn mi bowls with lemongrass chicken, and mojo pork for Cubanos on freshly baked sourdough—all served in this quasi-industrial setting. Don’t forget the Valley Isle Kombucha. International. L. $-$$ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Auntie’s Kitchen, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259. Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$ The Banyan Tree, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her lola’s (grandmother’s) pancit palabok is a fine Filipino noodle dish chock-full of shrimp and calamari steak, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annattoginger-garlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron and garlic. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Breakwall Shave Ice Company, The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900. Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite island flavor. Treats. $ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. For breakfast: Surfing Goat Dairy cheese crêpes with Kula strawberries or croque-madame made with Hawaiian sweet bread filled with kālua pork and Gruyère mornay sauce. For dinner: Kaua‘i prawns and Kona kampachi with beet dashi, kabocha squash, or mushroom Bolognese over yaki soba noodles. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Captain Jack’s Island Grill, The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988. The menu alone is worth the trip, with choices like Siren’s shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad, and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. American. L, D. $–$$

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Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ The Coffee Store, Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170. Stop in for a coffee and muffin . . . and you may end up staying for lunch—or later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.) Great service and freshbaked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding, and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D. $ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 6670908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Down the Hatch, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha . . . great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, HH, D, N, RR. $$ Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 6675353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latininspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Macadamianut pancakes, French toast, and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. Cash only. L. $ Honolulu Coffee Company, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 868-4806 ‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award winner for Best Coffee Shop, this full-service coffee bar also offers light fare such as granola parfait with fresh fruit, bagels, and ham-and-cheese croissants. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Inu Pool Bar, The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370. Islandfresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono Award for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself—and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, HH, D. $–$$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727. Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year. Japanese. D, N. $$$

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, D. $$–$$$$

Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. You can start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village . . . and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh aguachile

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted

goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duros pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ MauiGrown Coffee Company Store, 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728. If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/ Café. B, L. $ Maui Sugar Shop, 700 Office Rd., Kapalua, 6620033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Maui’s Best Banana Bread + Coffee Co., 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-6216. Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap. GF banana-bread option. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Mauka Makai, The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400. Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing. Moku Roots, 335 Keawe St., #211, Lahaina, 214-5106. Where can you find a vegan/vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono Award for Best New Restaurant? The same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare—right here. VegetarianVegan. B, L, D, RR. $ Monkeypod Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763. See South Side listing.

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

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RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

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dining guide Myths of Maui, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119. Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrasspeanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market Restaurant, 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456. See North Shore listing. Pailolo Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian Wagyu beef burger served al fresco. American. L, HH, D, N. $–$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the ocean. American. D, N. $$$$

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$

Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items such as pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/ Pizza. D. $$

ROCKsalt, Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features Hawai‘iproduced spirits and house-made infusions. Kidfriendly. International. B, D. RR. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$– $$$$

The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500. Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, HH, D. $$$

Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant, Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6613611. Breakfast offerings include loco moco and many eggs Benedict choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Shaka Sushi, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911. Bet you can’t say “Shaka Sushi” five times fast—not when you’re chowing down on their tasty omelets in the a.m., bentos at lunchtime, or some of the nine specialty sushi rolls served at dinner. Asian. B, L, D. $–$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn

EXPERIENCE LUXURY FILTER FREE From fresh farm-to-table dining options at our signature restaurant, Ka’ana Kitchen to the islands newest most exclusive lu’au experience, The Feast at Mokapu, Andaz Maui delivers an authentic Maui vibe, filter free.

VISIT US AT 3550 WAILEA ALANUI DRIVE OR ONLINE AT WWW.ANDAZMAUI.COM

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Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon

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dining guide

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Surfside Pizza, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 7932650. Local boys will love their namesake woodfired pizza: spicy Portuguese sausage, kālua pork and Spam fired on a mozzarella cheese crust with garlic cream sauce and topped with an egg. Oh, my! Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 6672426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. . . . Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer, too! Italian. D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$

Thai Chef, Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Terrace Restaurant, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6610011. Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919. Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 Togoshi, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868--0307. Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—

two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ Akamai Coffee Company, 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251. Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm. Coffee Shop. $ Amigo’s, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $ Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger Grille and Tap Room, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8990. Hit the king crab and asparagus eggs Benedict for breakfast, head down to the beach for a swim and some sunbathing, then return for burgers and brew at this iconic restaurant. American. B, L, D. $–$$

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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dining guide

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

Coconuts Fish Café, Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. American. L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Breakfast buffet, or à la carte? Wait—did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakalā, Maui Artisanal processing Visit our Farmstand in Kula on Waipoli Road

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Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234 D. $$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ 5 Palms Restaurant, Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul Bermudez navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific. Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style. Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675. Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Four Winds II, 11 Mā‘alaea Boat Harbor Rd., Mā‘alaea, 879-8188. Breakfast, lunch and cocktails aboard this catamaran make the trip a fun and delicious adventure. American. B, L. $$

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Island Gourmet, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055. Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kamana Kitchen, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888. Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Lehua Lounge, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. $ Lineage, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800. World-famous “flying saucers,” Simeon family pork and peas, and whimsical ochazuke-toasted rice guri-guri. Chef Sheldon Simeon’s playful take on plantation cuisine will keep you coming back for more! Pacific Rim. L, D. $-$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

Honolulu Coffee Company, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8756630. See West Side listing.

Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$

Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$

Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

Humuhumu, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. ‘Aipono’s 2018 Chef of the Year, Alvin Savella turns out a piquant huli huli chicken with li hing mui rub, and ramen made for royalty: half a Kona-raised lobster in a velvety red miso-coconut broth. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$

The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich

with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, D. $$

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, HH, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Mulligans on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131. Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, D, N. $–$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$

Enjoy delicious pizza in our open-air location in the heart of Wailea. Build your own pizza made with whole wheat crust. We also offer a variety of salads, pastas, and appetizers and a fun bar area featuring twice daily drink specials. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available. Takeout & Delivery: 808.874.7499

ManolisPizzaCompany.com

Romantic Oceanfront Dining On One Of Maui’s Premier Beaches

Nutcharee’s Thai Food, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market Restaurant, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing. The Pint & Cork, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! International. L, D, N. $–$$ Pita Paradise, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 8797177. Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$$ Pizza Madness, 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad,

RESERVATIONS 808 875 7555

2980 SOUTH KIHEI RD. KIHEI, MAUI, HI 96753

FEATURING BRUNCH, HAPPY HOUR & DINNER DAILY

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dining guide hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$$$$$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748880. See West Side listing. Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$ Seascape Restaurant, Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068. Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi

More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge. American. L (daily), D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapplecaramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$ Sunsets Bar & Grill, Maui Nui Golf Club, 470 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 663-4220. Luscious half-pound burgers worth writing home about; try the pastrami burger with swiss cheese, house-made pickles, L.T.O. and Thousand Island dressing. Or go light with hummus, toasted pita, carrots, cucumber, cherry tomatoes and chili oil. American. L, D. $–$$ Tanpopo, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038. Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff greet you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak.

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

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Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/ Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, HH, D. $–$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Macadamianut-crusted chicken, tiger-shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing. Dope BBQ, @dopebbq, 989-0042. Locations vary, but it’s worth tracking down the “dope”: smoked

meats with all the fixin’s, and fresh, killer lemonade, too. Food Truck. L, D. $

WWW.ALOHAMIXEDPLATE.COM • 1285 Front Street, Lahaina, HI • (808) 661-3322

Fork & Salad, Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St. Unit 330, Kahului. 793-3256. See South Shore listing. Kahili Restaurant, Kahili Golf Course, 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Wailuku, 242-6000. Friday dinner buffet and Sunday brunch include poke, snow crab, beef prime rib, and housemade desserts. Live music, too! Breakfast all day, every day, with specialties of the house such as Asian fried rice and loco moco with kālua pork. B, L, D. $-$$$ Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877). Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the average. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, MauiFreshStreatery. com, 344-7929. ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

S AME

• ALWAY S LOC AL BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER RESERVATIONS WALK-INS TAKE-OUT

The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$ Only Ono, Kahului, 777-9026. Crispy-skin Chinesestyle roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches smoked brisket, too! Only delicious! Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com. Chinese–American. L, D. $ Poi by the Pound, 430 Kele St., Kahului, 2839381. Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawaiian. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Thai Mee Up, Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369. Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026. See West Side listing. Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 8680753. Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

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and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $

crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

Lumeria’s Wooden Crate, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877. Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the basis for some of the garden dishes served at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Ice cream, salads, sandwiches and espresso, all served in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $–$$ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 871-2960. Focaccia sandwiches, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Plus fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8781313. Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and blueberrymango scones. On weekends, muscle past long distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto

O‘o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Seasalt, Kulamalu Shopping Center, 24 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, 757-5385. Long for a luscious Reuben filled with house-cured brisket that’s smoked to perfection? You’ll find it here, next to Longs Drugs, along with fresh-fried chips of the day. Food Truck. B, L. $ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Choice Health Bar, 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711. See West Side listing.

Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American/Pizza. B, L, D. $–$$ Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Jaws Country Store, 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 419-6887. Dig into a poached egg on sourdough toast with tomato, caramelized onions and pesto; or try a poke bowl with mac nuts, avo and Maui onions. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 5798488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$– $$$$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. The tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ nyloS, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354. Fresh out of the gate, this fine-dining restaurant has been garnering rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, RR. $$$

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food. Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS LUNCH: Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm DINNER: 5:30PM CLOSING HAPPY HOUR: DailyTO 2:30–5:30pm LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: WEEKEND BRUNCH: 11PM Sat & UNTIL Sun 9am–2:30pm LATE NIGHT HAPPY HOUR: 9–12pm 808-667-CIAO (2426) DINNER: Nightly 5:30–9pm TAVERNAMAUI.COM 808-667-CIAO (2426) 2000 VILLAGE ROAD TavernaMaui.com KAPALUA RESORT 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua Resort

BEST NEW RESTAURANT Gold 2017 BEST BAR Gold 2017

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BEST ITALIAN Gold 2019 Silver 2017 & 2018

BEST COCKTAILS Gold 2019 & 2018

BEST WINE LIST Silver 2018

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Vana, 93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004. Strawberry-papaya parfaits, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a delicious (and photo-worthy) cheese platter served with honeycomb to sweeten the deal. Originality shines at Vana, now serving sushi. International. B, L, D. $–$$

HĀNA Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 4465732. Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced fish and produce ground an original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808565-6962. For almost two decades, this mom-andpop coffee shop has served delish, freshly baked goods. The full breakfast and lunch menus are also well worth the look. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Lāna‘i City Bar & Grille, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-999-0786. The former sous chef at Aquavit—celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Manhattan restaurant—Joel Harrington now brings world flavors to Lāna‘i with dishes such as spicy Peruvian ceviche, cloudlike potato gnocchi, and seared Vietnamese-spice-rubbed local venison with Asian pears and braised venison ragout. Wines and top mixology, too. American/Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), D. $–$$$ Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-totable fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start the day with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$.

Lineage and Chef Sheldon are proud supporters of the children and families of Maui. We are honored to recognize Imua Family Services and its many community supporters for their commitment to “empower children and their families to reach their full potential.” Imua Family has been providing therapeutic services to children in Maui County since 1947.

Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celebrity chef Matsuhisasan has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe Lawenko at this lovely open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$– $$$$

3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. | The Shops at Wailea | 808.879.8800 20% Off kama‘āina on all food and Complimentary Valet Parking

Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$ Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

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Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

July From left: July 19, Dancers of Damelahamid | July 5–7, Makawao Rodeo | July 21, Gary Clark Jr.

THROUGH JULY 26

Six-Word Memoir Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Written word and visual arts come together in this exhibit that shares life stories told in six words. Gallery open daily, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

THROUGH AUGUST 11

First Nations Art of British Columbia Schaefer International Gallery, MACC View works by artists who blend traditional practices with unique interpretations and technical excellence. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Fourth of July Festivities Lahaina Town The LahainaTown Action Committee presents its annual Independence Day celebration with music, festivities, keiki activities and more. Fireworks will light up Lahaina’s night sky beginning at 8 p.m. VisitLahaina.com

4-7

Makawao Rodeo Oskie Rice Arena Giddy-up to this Fourth of July tradition from Hawai‘i’s paniolo (cowboy) past. Free admission

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES

Each week, a different town in Maui County hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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to qualifying runs on Thursday, July 4, then the state’s top cowboys and cowgirls compete in three days of bull riding, steer chasing, calf roping and more. Saturday’s parade through Makawao town starts at 9 a.m. 80 Ohaoha Pl., Makawao; MakawaoRodeo.net

Lāna‘i Pineapple Festival Dole Park, Lāna‘i City, Lāna‘i Lāna‘i’s sweet celebration of its plantation heritage features pineapple dishes and exhibits, vendors and local performers, crafts, games and prizes. A parade kicks off the activities at 2 p.m., with fireworks closing out the festivities at 9 p.m. LanaiPineappleFestival.com

OBON FESTIVAL Each weekend in summer, a different Buddhist temple on Maui invites everyone to share in this tradition of honoring the ancestors with dance, taiko drumming, food and festivities. Call individual temples for details. Jul 6 Lahaina Jodo Mission 661-4304 Jul 12-13 Mantokuji Mission of Pā‘ia 579-8051 Jul 19-20 Kahului Hongwanji Mission 871-4732 Jul 26-27 Makawao Hongwanji Mission 572-7229 Aug 2-3 Wailuku Hongwanji Mission 244-0406 Aug 9-10 Lahaina Hongwanji Mission 661-0640 Aug 17 Pā‘ia Rinzai Zen Mission 579-9921 Aug 24 Kula Shofukuji Mission 661-0466

Jul 5, Aug 2 Jul 12, Aug 9 Jul 19, Aug 16 Jul 26, Aug 23 Aug 30

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

-AUGUST 4

Upcountry Sundays Acoustic Style Casanova Italian Restaurant and Deli Volunteer-run Mana‘o Radio goes live during this benefit showcasing local and visiting musicians the first Sunday of every month. 2–5 p.m. 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 242-5666; Manao Radio.com

-AUGUST 4

Mama Mia! Historic ‘Īao Theater ABBA’s hits highlight the hilarious story of a young woman’s search for her birth father on a Greek island paradise. Fridays and Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 2426969; MauiOnStage.com

Kukui Torch Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Cultural practitioner Ko‘i Lum teaches how to make a lamalama (torch)—used in traditional Hawaiian night fishing—from the kukui tree. 9 a.m.–noon. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Dancers of Damelahamid Castle Theater, MACC Inspired by the rich history of masked dance, this performance celebrates indigenous/First Nations cultures. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org.

20-21

Imu Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens This two-day workshop teaches aspects of imu (Hawaiian underground oven) creation and use. 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Saturday; 8–11 a.m. Sunday. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

LEFT & RIGHT: COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; MIDDLE: JOSE MORALES

J U LY

S W E E P S TA K E S

WIN A TRIP TO MAUI!

In celebration of Hyatt Maui Paddle for a Cure, a two month resort-wide initiative to benefit Susan G. Komen® Hawaii, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa and Alaska Airlines are giving away a trip for two to Maui! Prize includes: • 5 night stay in an Oceanfront Room at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa • Round-trip air travel for 2 courtesy of Alaska Airlines • 2 VIP tickets to Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa’s award-winning Drums of the Pacific Lu’au • $200 gift certificate for dinner at the resort’s award-winning signature restaurant, Japengo Enter now through August 31, 2019 for a chance to win. Winner will be notified by phone on September 12, 2019. For entry form, rules and restrictions, visit MauiMagazine.net/contests.

calendar July 26–27, MayJah RayJah | August 17, Maui Calls

AUGUST

1-4

Tortilla Curtain McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Adapted from T.C. Boyle’s bestselling novel, this visceral drama explores the universal yearning to belong to a community. 5:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

August 3

Gary Clark Jr. Castle Theater, MACC Hailing from Austin, this Grammy-winning musician fuses blues, rock, soul, and hip-hop music. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org.

26-27

MayJah RayJah A&B Amphitheater, MACC This annual music festival celebrates its tenth anniversary with performances by Damian “Jr. Gong” Marley, SOJA, and others. 5:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org.

ADVENTURE FOOD CULTURE

THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI

6 ISSUES FOR $24

MauiMagazine.net/Subscribe 844-808-MAUI (6284) Hours of operation 9 a.m.–3 p.m. HST

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A Native Hawaiian Wellness Gathering University of Hawai‘i–Maui College This event features speakers, workshops, health screenings, free dental services for youth, food, crafts, entertainment and more. 10 a.m.–3 p.m. 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului; hnkop.org

‘Īao Valley 5K & 10K Valley Isle Road Runners hosts this scenic race through ‘Īao Valley, starting and ending at the Wailuku Municipal Parking Lot on Vineyard Street. 7:30 a.m. jim@RunningShoePress.com; virr.com

Maui Calls A&B Amphitheater/Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC The MACC’s signature fundraiser features live entertainment, plus gourmet treats by local chefs. Bid on hundreds of items, from art and jewelry to golf and travel packages during live and silent auctions. Must be at least 21 to attend. 6–10 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org.

–OCTOBER 27

Art & Activism: An Exhibit about Change Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Artists from across the country address politics, environment, and gender seen through printmaking, fiber arts, time-based media, and installation. Gallery is open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts. org

Ke Alahele Education Fund Dinner & Auction Grand Wailea Resort Maui Economic Development Board’s annual fundraiser supports programs in science, technology, engineering and math for students throughout Maui County. A reception with silent auction starts at 4:30 p.m. Dinner and live auction at 6 p.m. 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-2300; medb.org

Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s September–October 2019 print edition must be received by July 15. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

FROM TOP: AARON FARRINGTON, TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD: ALL COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Huliau Food and Film Festival Sugar Beach Events Wine, dine, and view student-produced films at this fundraiser for Maui Huliau Foundation, which empowers local youth through environmental education. Enjoy farm-to-table food stations, live music, entertainment, and a silent auction. 85 N. Kīhei Road, Kīhei; MauiHuliauFoundation.org

Haw ai ian A i rl in es

Made in Mau i C ou nty

FESTI VA L

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who’s who

The 2019 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards

Some 500 guests boogied on down for an evening of fine dining and celebration at the seventeenth ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards Gala. Held on April 18, the “Disco ‘Aipono” party transformed the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa into a groovy hotspot with costumes, a lively reception, scrumptious dinner by Chef Gregory Grohowski, and fine wines poured by Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants. UH–Maui College chef/ instructor Teresa Shurilla and her students topped off the evening with flashy “Disco Inferno” desserts inspired by the mirror balls and the glitz and glitter that defined the era. The annual banquet honors the island’s top restaurants and culinary professionals, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. ‘Aipono raises funds for UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program, and provides an invaluable real-world mentoring opportunity for our future chefs. A special mahalo to this year’s sponsors, who helped make the event a success: Hyatt Regency Maui, Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate, Pasha Hawaii, The Saunders Foundation, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, Pacific Biodiesel, and Rimfire Imports. Visit MauiMagazine.net/aipono for more photos and videos of our special award winners.

Guests mugged in the photo booth, courtesy of Epic Entertainment Hawaii. From left: Maui Academy of Performing Arts | Shelby Lynch | Monkeypod Kitchen | Da Kitchen

From left: Dazzle Entertainment’s Jenna Davis & Walta Teclesenbet| Rita Goldman | DJs and dancers entertained | Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants’ James Maher & Jeremiah Allen

Students and chef/instructors from UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program dished out dy-no-mite pūpū. From left: Chef Peter Pak’s crab croquettes | Chef Craig Omori with students | Chef Omori’s beet-and-asparagus terrine | Chef Joseph Tocci oversees the preparation of his crudo with lemon zest | Chef Tocci’s seared flank steak compressed with ginger & garlic

From left: Dan O’Brien, Erin McCargar | Brittany Moyer, Kane Carbonneau | Bob & Kelly King, Larry Zolezzi, Bobbie Lee | Mike Atherton, Catherine Chamberlain | Jerry & Liz Sager

Photography by Mieko Horikoshi

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From left: Michael Haynes, MNKO publisher Diane Woodburn, Katherine Haynes | Jade Hummel, Jennifer Nguyen | Chris Kaiwi, Joey Macadangdang | Rudy & Gwen Balala | JoRene & Gunar Valkirs

From left: David DeShong & Jennifer Polito | Anna & Chris Napoleon | Qiana & Michele Di Bari | Mary Jo & Tylun Pang | Dave Fincher, Sue Katlun, Julian Bonfardin

From left: Josh Brumblay, Brian Murphy, Alvin Savella, Brian Reilly | Christine & Ian Elumba | Terry & Laurie LaGrange | Clyde & Gerianne Sakamoto | Charles Fredy

From left: Star Noodle, Best Asian Cuisine (Gold) | Dessert chefs Teresa Shurilla & Hannah Stanchfield | Disco Inferno dessert | Duo, Best Steak (Silver) | Tin Roof Maui, Best Local Flavor (Silver)

From left: Aloha Mixed Plate, Best Lunch Plate (Gold) | Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, Best Shave Ice (Gold) | Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, Best Breakfast (Silver) | Taverna, Best Cocktails (Gold)

From left: The Mill House, Best Cocktails (Silver) | Becky Speere, ‘Aipono’s Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami | Ka‘ana Kitchen, Restaurant of the Year (Silver) & Best Wine List (Silver) | Japengo, Restaurant of the Year (Gold)

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2019

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who’s who CARNIVAL DE VENICE | Hyatt Regency Maui | March 30, 2019 | Benefit for Imua Family Services

ii wa

Cel eb

40 Years in Ha ing t a r

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“We Know Wine”

From left: Michael Haynes | Daniel Uhrich, Dean Wong, Dan Thiel

meet our maui team

Jeremiah Allen James Maher W. Maui Sales S. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier

Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier

LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE.... Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.

F rom left: John Browning | Ariana Bento, Idalia Easting

hawaii’s fine wine specialist since 1979 celebrating 40 years @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi

www.chamberswines.com

From left: Hermine Harmon (gown by Jennifer Oberg Atelier) | David Ward, Marsha & Andy Sharpe

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

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FIRST & THIRD ROWS: BRYAN BERKOWITZ; SECOND & LAST ROWS: ROLLAND ALLAN & JESSICA MARIE

From left: Laura & Dr. Daniel Vo | Drs. Gerard & Fely Livaudais | Hawaii Opera Theatre’s Blythe Kelsey & Leslie Goldman

a perfect day on maui

Roller Coast ‘Ōhai Trail

Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana Hairpin turns . . . single-lane roads . . . sheer cliffs. This road is not for the squeamish, but rugged beauty and thrilling discoveries await those who dare. Start from Nāpili and you’ll hug the mountain—and still see plenty of breathtaking scenery. 9 a.m. Don’t be misled by its simple moniker— The Coffee Store in Napili is that, and a whole lot more: You’ll find plenty of house-made baked goodies and savory breakfast bites at this locally owned cafe. Eat in or savor at the next scenic stop. 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili; 6 a.m.–6 p.m. daily; 669-4170; NapiliCoffeeStore. com

Kahakuloa Bay

10 a.m. Never mind the Bellagio Fountains; the Nākālele Blowhole is the real deal. Ocean currents blast through a hole in the lava shelf to create this salty geyser. Many people hike past the “stay clear of the blowhole” signs and down a rocky cliff to get a closer look, but don’t follow suit. Conditions can be treacherous, even on a calm day. Instead, enjoy the scene from a perch overlooking the blowhole, and you’ll also score lofty panoramic views. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy. (Rte. 340), near mile marker 38.5. George Kahumoku Jr.

11 a.m. Stretch your legs along the nearby ‘Ōhai Loop Trail and Overlook. Walk this easy 1.2-mile trail in a counter-clockwise direction, and you’ll saunter past lush emerald vegetation that eventually opens to glorious ocean views. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., between mile markers 40 and 41. HawaiiTrails.hawaii.gov/trails Noon The road narrows as you approach remote Kahakuloa, home to the famous limegreen “treehouse” also known as Julia’s Best Banana Bread. A free sample will surely convince you to buy a loaf . . . or three. 4625 Kahekili Hwy.; 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily; JuliasBananaBread.com

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12:15 p.m. Island-inspired souvenirs mingle with fine art at Karen Lei’s Gallery, which sits on a ridge overlooking Kahakuloa village. Savor the 360-degree views and fresh bites, including tacos and poke bowls, at the gallery’s new Bay View Café food truck. Kahekili Hwy., near mile marker 13; 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily; 244-3371; KarenLeisGallery.com 2 p.m. The creative streak continues at Turnbull Studios & Sculptures, where towering wooden giraffes entice passersby. Step inside, and you may catch Christine or Steve Turnbull chipping away at their next masterpiece. Outside, a sculpture garden is as beautiful as the views. 5030 Kahekili Hwy., near mile marker 10; 10 a.m.–5 p.m. daily; 244-0101; TurnbullFineArt.com Here’s where our formal itinerary ends and your choice of route back to Nāpili begins. Returning the way you came takes about an hour, and you’ll be on the sometimes-precarious side of the road. Continuing on Kahekili Highway and circling West Maui (recommended) takes about fifteen minutes longer, and is a lot easier on the nerves. 5:30 p.m. Filipino and local food shines at Joey’s Kitchen, where the namesake chef turns locally grown ingredients into culinary masterpieces. The beef short ribs will have you licking the plate. 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili. Dinner 4–9 p.m. daily; 214-5590; JoeysKitchenHIMaui.com 6:45 p.m. Grammy-winning George Kahumoku Jr. hosts the weekly Masters of Hawaiian Music Slack Key Show at Napili Kai Beach Resort. He gets a little help from his friends, too—local music legends routinely share stories and the stage at this laid-back outdoor jam session. 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili. Doors open at 6:45 p.m.; show at 7:30 p.m. Wednesdays; 6693858; SlackKeyShow.com

LEHIA APANA

The Coffee Store in Napili

JOIN US AT HYATT REGENCY MAUI, HOME OF SIX ‘AIPONO AWARDS.

Enjoy endless activities and award-winning dining at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, home of six 2019 ‘Aipono Awards. Japengo Maui Restaurant of the Year (Gold) Best Sushi (Gold) Best Asian Cuisine (Silver) Drums of the Pacific Lu‘au Best Lu‘au (Silver) 200 Nohea Kai Drive Lahaina, HI 96761 maui.regency.hyatt.com

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice Best Shave Ice (Gold) Honolulu Coffee Company Best Coffee (Gold)