Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine - March-April 2023

George Kahumoku Jr.

MAUI’S RENAISSANCE MAN artist, farmer, slack-key legend

Old La - hainaLu

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au

THE HISTORY OF HAWAI‘I TOLD THROUGH MUSIC & DANCE

Eco-friendly ales to soulful sunscreen: Do Hawai‘i, sustainably

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Keiki Surf Contest

A World of Pure Imagination p. 22

THE SUBMARINER

Created for divers in 1953, the Submariner is a universal symbol of waterproofness and reliability. It remains one of the most iconic watches of all time. Now, with a new 41 mm case and a next generation movement, the story of the Submariner continues. #Perpetual

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Estates • Kapalua

Oceanfront Estate • Mahinahina Kaanapali

Oceanfront Residence • Kahana

50 contents features

A MODERN HA‘IKŪ HOME

Story by Serene Gunnison

Photographs by Travis Rowan

Take a tour of the stunning architecture and décor of an elegantly crafted, 6,600-square-foot Ha‘ikū home.

22

IMUA DISCOVERY GARDEN

Story by Savy Janssen

Photographs by Jason Moore

A Wailuku estate is transformed into an outdoor learning environment for the children of Maui.

26

OLD LAHAINA LŪ‘AU

By Serene Gunnison

Photographs by Joshua Hardin and Azelan Amundson

A dazzling photo essay showcases authentic hula dancers, musicians and traditional Hawaiian arts.

34

SUSTAINABILITY STEWARDS

By Serene Gunnison and Ashley Probst

Meet some of the businesses and community members who are making our island a better place.

42 GEORGE KAHUMOKU JR.

by Peter von Buol with Chris Amundson

The life of a legendary Maui slack-key guitarist traces the history of the Hawaiian Renaissance.

To the rest of the world, George Kahumoku Jr. is a Grammy Awardwinning virtuoso, but in his own mind, his most important role is as a steward of the land.

Story page 42.

Here are some of the talented folks who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is. 14

By Chris Amundson

Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. 58

Discover what’s new and exciting in Maui’s dining scene.

Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening. 80

A sea turtle cruises through the waves off Mākena. 82

Meet Wendy Tuivaioge, director of Hawaiian programs at Four Seasons Resort Maui.

Photo by Jason Moore

ASHLEY PROBST

West Side’s Ashley Probst has been making her mark on Maui’s journalism world since she was in 7th grade, when her first article was published in the Maui News. After attending Chapman University in Southern California and working as an editor for Firebrand Media, Ashley returned home to Maui to live in Lāhainā where she works as a full-time freelance writer and a professional tarot card reader.

Ashley’s intimate knowledge of Maui helped her as she interviewed and co-wrote this issue’s “Sustainability Stewards” feature (page 34), which celebrates businesses and community members making a positive impact on our environment. When Ashley isn’t writing about her home on the Valley Isle, she’s usually traveling. Ashley has traveled solo to 13 European countries, and even embarked on a year-long solo road trip around the western United States. She’s looking forward to visiting new countries like Japan and Indonesia next.

SAVY JANSSEN

Longtime Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi contributor Savy Janssen returns to this issue to share her thoughtful prose. Savy wrote this issue’s feature story, “A World of Pure Imagination,” about the fantastical Will Smith Imua Discovery Garden in Wailuku.

Savy spent her childhood barefoot exploring Maui before moving to California to attend Chapman University. During her time in California, Savy earned bachelor’s and master’s degrees in literature and worked as a lecturer. She now lives back on Maui, in Makawao, where she teaches high school English at Seabury Hall and works as a freelance writer. Her writing has been published in Los Angeles Review of Books, Lennon Wall Magazine, Calliope Magazine and The Panther. When Savy isn’t teaching or writing, she enjoys reading at the beach and hiking with her family.

PETER VON BUOL

Peter von Buol’s love for Hawai‘i runs deep. The Chicago-based journalist became captivated by Hawaiian history at a young age, engrossed in tales of the Hokule‘a and Captain James Cook. Peter has been making extended bi-annual trips to the islands for nearly 40 years, and in that time, he has met some of Hawai‘i’s most prolific artists, including Herb Kane, Henry Kapono and George Kahumoku Jr., a longtime family friend featured in this issue (cover and “Slack Key,” page 54).

When back home in Chicago, Peter is a docent at the Field Museum’s Ruatepupuke II, a living Maori meeting house. Peter has contributed many stories to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi through the years, spanning unique topics like native lichens and “singing” tree snails.

MARCH-APRIL 2023

VOL. 27, NO. 2

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an international magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Thanks for reading as we explore the islands, people and cultures of Maui Nui.

Publisher & Executive Editor

Chris Amundson

Associate Publisher

Angela Amundson

ED ITO RIAL

Executive Photo Editor Joshua Hardin

Assistant Editor Matt Masich

Photo Editor Jason Moore

Dining Editor Carla Tracy

Staff Writer Serene Gunnison

ADVERTISING SALES

Brooke Tadena, Marilyn Koponen

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Edie Mann, Karlie Pape

SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Lea Kayton, Katie Evans, Janice Sudbeck

DIGITAL MEDIA

Azelan Amundson

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CONTRIBUTE

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COPYRIGHT

All text, photography and artwork are copyright ©2023 by Flagship Publishing, Inc. For reprint permissions, email editor@mauimagazine.net.

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Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

First Hula Lesson

BURIED DEEP in our family archives is a photo of a young dad and magazine publisher attempting, with limited success, to dance hula.

Our family of five happened onto the start of a hula demonstration at Lāhainā Cannery Mall, where we eagerly sat in the front row as the show was about to begin.

We watched, all amazed, for 30 minutes as young hula dancers moved gracefully across the stage. Their motions mimicked the waves of the ocean and the mountains of the land. As they rhythmically swayed with the music, we began to realize they were telling us stories.

My emotional investment in the performance must have been obvious, because before I could say “mahalo,” I was being ushered on stage to receive my first hula lesson.

Looking back, I can’t imagine I did it well, nor did I bring honor to the art of hula. But what I did sense at that time was hula is more than a dance: Hula is a way of life.

Or so I thought.

“Hula is life,” Aunty Wendy Tuivaioge told me during our interview for this issue’s “Ambassadors of Aloha” (p. 82).

Now the director of Hawaiian Programs at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, “Aunty Mopsie,” as her hula friends call her, started taking hula lessons as a little girl, at the insistence of her mother.

Some children, like Wendy, who begin

dance or music at a young age, might not understand why. They might even resist a little. But Wendy’s mother persisted, as did her loving kumu hula (hula teacher).

Five decades and many kumu later, Wendy is not only an ambassador of aloha, she is an ambassador of hula – sharing with anyone interested in learning how entwined hula is with the very breath of Hawaiian life.

MANY MOTHERS and fathers across Maui today feel as passionately about hula as Wendy’s mother did. They send their sons and daughters to any of 20 hālau (hula schools) where they learn the language, culture and mo’ōlelo (stories) of Hawai‘i’s past and present through music and dance.

Some of them go on to perform at lū‘au across the island, including at the ‘Aipono Award-winning Old Lāhainā Lū‘au, which we feature in this issue (p. 26).

Schools across the Hawaiian Islands now teach ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language), alongside traditional Western education. Maui’s George Kahumoku Jr. has been a leader in the rebirth of Hawaiian culture through education, farming, art and music. We sat down with George at breakfast on his lānai for this issue’s cover story, “Slack Key: Maui's Renaissance Man for the Hawaiian Renaissance.” (p. 42).

Like Aunty Wendy, Uncle George is generous with his time – ready to share a story or nugget of Hawaiian wisdom with locals and visitors alike.

Some of us may have given up hope of ever becoming an elegant hula dancer, but the world will be a better place when we strive to live with more of the aloha spirit that radiates from deep in the Hawaiian culture.

Chris Amundson Publisher

A Vanishing Act: Maui’s Mysterious Manta Rays

By SERENE GUNNISON

Douglas Hoffman

The shallow channels between Maui Nui’s four islands attract scores of humpback whales every winter. But these waters are also a preferred habitat for another marine giant: hahalua, the majestic manta ray.

The four islands of Maui Nui are home to the largest known population of manta rays in the U.S., with more than 600 cataloged individuals. Unlike the conspicuous humpbacks, manta rays are far more elusive – and increasingly so.

When Lāhainā-based Mark Deakos, a researcher for the Hawai‘i Association for Marine Education and Research (HAMER), started studying Maui’s mantas in 2005, he averaged more than six manta sightings per dive.

Today, Deakos is lucky to spot one in 20 dives. “This could be an indication that population numbers are declining, or that they are no longer visiting the area,” Deakos said.

Twenty years ago, manta sightings were all but guaranteed at a “cleaning station” off West Maui. Here, mantas would congregate as cleaner wrasses nibbled away at parasites inside their gills and mouth. However, Deakos believes due to declining reef health, wrasses are not as reliably present at the cleaning stations, causing the mantas to abandon them. Where are they going? “We are trying to figure that out,” he said.

Deakos and his team are examining

18 years of data to better understand if the population is growing, stable or in decline. Based on genetic samples taken of mantas in Maui Nui and Hawai‘i Island, they discovered that these two populations are genetically isolated, meaning they don’t mix, furthering each population’s vulnerability.

Manta rays are a slow-growing species, with females giving birth to a single pup only once every three to seven years. The mantas’ slow birth rate coupled with an uptick in human-caused hazards could spell trouble for Maui’s manta population, Deakos said.

While some protections exist for mantas in Hawai‘i, they pale in comparison to the slew of regulations that safeguard threatened and endangered sea turtles, monk seals and humpback whales. More research is needed to properly protect Maui’s mantas, but Deakos says mitigating storm water runoff that threaten our reefs and establishing a marine protected area for manta critical habitat could be beneficial.

Divers who spot manta rays statewide can help with research by emailing photographs of the manta’s unique belly spot patterns to HAMER at reportmanta@mantatracker.com.

If you’re lucky enough to see a Maui hahalua, its graceful underwater ballet is sure to amaze, inspire and ignite hopes for the population’s utmost protection.

Adult manta rays living in the waters of Maui Nui have 12-foot wingspans and weigh 1,000 pounds. Manta rays are a slowgrowing species, with females producing a single pup only once every three to seven years.

Mark Deakos/The Hawai'i Association for Marine Education and Research (above, right)

Douglas Hoffman

Arabella Ark

Mystery and antiquity in clay

By CYNTHIA SWEENEY

Arabella Ark’s ceramics resonate with a timeless, mystical quality.

By firing in the Japanese raku tradition, she lends her architectural temples and tea houses a sense of story, spirituality and feeling of antiquity.

Ark has deep roots in Maui, especially Hāna, which she calls “a very powerful place.” She now lives on Moloka‘i, near her family and grandchildren, on property overlooking a fishpond, bordering the reef and channel between Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i.

“The beauty is overwhelming with natural landscape, the sea, dawns and dusks. I kayak or swim as often as I can and walk the beach with my golden retriever.”

Ark says she is inspired by Japanese architecture, and her world-wide travels. Her artwork has won major awards

Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of Martha Killebrew (above)

Arabella Ark (above), Mickey Pauole (below, right)

and is exhibited around the world. She has pieces in permanent collections in Honolulu, at the Smithsonian Art Museum’s Renwick Gallery, and in China and Australia.

Yet ceramics came into her life through a back door while she was an actress, theater director, mother, and writer. Originally from northern California, Ark has produced numerous plays, started a production company in France and performed with the National Theatre of Greece in Athens. While in Europe, “I traveled, and traveled, and traveled. I never, ever thought about being a potter,” she said.

When Ark moved to Hawai‘i in 1972, she started making glazes for another artist’s ceramic artwork. When she tried her own hand, the first pieces she created were quite large, and looked “like Stonehenge.”

Loading the kiln back then, she dropped a favorite piece inspired by the Daitoku-ji Temple in Kyoto. She calls it her “Zen lesson” in learning how to let go. “From that point on, I’ve never worked as though my work was precious. I do it just for the joy of making it.”

Ark’s large fortress creations are influenced by ancient ruins and by the Japanese tea ceremony. They seem to evoke a sense of strength and protection. In other pieces, instead of putting a standard foot at the bottom, “I would put a little set of stairs that were ascending because I wanted a feeling of let’s go upwards with our thoughts.” She also added windows, doorways and staircases “because I wanted that feeling of willingness to go into a new space. To look beyond where we are.”

On Moloka‘i, Ark built a beautiful showroom and art studio, also used by her grandchildren.

“I believe I am happier than I have ever been, absorbing the magic of dawn and dusk colors here at the beach in Kawela.”

Arabella Ark’s ceramics can be seen and purchased at Village Galleries in Lāhainā, Viewpoints Gallery in Makawao and Maui Hands Gallery stores across Maui. ArabellaArk.com

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A Whale of a Place

Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Visitor Center reopens with flair

By SERENE GUNNISON

A strange yellow device resembling an archaic cell phone sits on display at NOAA’s Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Visitor Center in Kīhei. This peculiar gadget is a satellite tag, and like many of the artifacts on display at the center, it was once fastened to a 40-ton humpback whale.

The newly renovated visitor center is a window into the realm of humpback whale research and rescue. After a lengthy closure following the pandemic, the center reopened in December 2022, debuting a new look and focus. Fresh exhibits have been added to showcase the intricacies of whale research and emphasize the importance of National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s whale disentanglement work within the marine sanctuary, which encompasses 1,370 square miles of coastal waters in Hawai‘i.

Apart from research, whale disentanglement is one of NOAA’s primary focuses in the Hawaiian Islands. Hundreds of thousands of whales, dolphins and porpoises worldwide become tangled in marine debris every year, which can lead to severe injury, infection or starvation. Fortunately, success stories abound, and tangible evidence of such victories is displayed at the visitor center.

Lining the exhibit shelves are weathered tangles of rope, cable and other debris that were removed from humpback whales by trained NOAA staff. The detritus is affixed with tags that show when and where the humpback was first spotted and subsequently freed.

One piece of debris, a thick black cable, was removed from the mouth of a whale off Kīhei. According to one of the visitor center’s hospitable docents, the whale had 500 feet of underwater coaxial cable tangled around its mouth. “I mean, where does that even come from?” he said. “They had to send us down to get bolt cutters from Ace Hardware to remove it.”

Despite the sobering reminders of humanity’s effect on humpback whales, good news proliferates. Docents proudly assert rising humpback populations and quip to guests about victorious whale rescues. And with collective conservation efforts, this spectacular whale species will thrive for generations to come.

Visit the Hawaiian Islands Whale Sanctuary Visitor Center at 726 S. Kīhei Road in Kīhei from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Friday.

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unlight filtered through the outstretched arms of the 120-yearold monkey pod trees, and a warm Wailuku breeze swirled through the air. Behold a forest to envy the likes of Eden: dark

Explore Imua Family Services’ Will Smith Discovery Garden in historic Wailuku

Imagination World of Pure A

Story by SAVY JANSSEN

Photographs by JASON MOORE

monstera leaves, fuchsia Hong Kong orchid trees, ripe avocados rolling lazily, fragrant Calamansi limes, a mango tree heavy with fruit and a carpet of lush green lawn under foot.

“We are going to have to tell kids, ‘No playing under the mango tree!’ when it’s mango

season,” jokes Dean Wong. Dressed in hot pink from head to toe and smiling warmly, Wong walks and talks as he tours the grounds of the Will Smith Imua Discovery Garden at 2471 Main St. in downtown Wailuku.

Wong is the executive director of Imua

Family Services, an organization that supports the developmental and special needs of Maui County families and children. Wong is leading the creation, implementation and development of Imua’s Discovery Garden, a place where all of the children of Maui are invited to learn through playing in and exploring an outdoor learning environment.

From the rolling acreage that seems to say “Let’s run!” to the low-branched trees that beckon passersby to stop and climb, it is not hard to imagine children all around, laughing and playing, just as Wong envisions.

“Our goal is to create outdoor experiences where children and families are connecting,” Wong said, be it through exploring the grounds, through art, music, dance or the other cultural and community events hosted here.

Wong is full of energy this Saturday afternoon, which may be from the natural high he seems to get from sharing this project he’s been working on for the last six years. He narrates the past and future: what was and what will be. The old canal that once fed the sugar cane fields, the empty plot that will one day become the ethnobotanical garden honoring the ali’i who once walked this land, a veranda where

visitors will one day enjoy the shade and sip tea while their children chase monarchs in the butterfly garden.

Wong is like the property’s Willy Wonka, spouting beautiful ideas that will fulfill children’s fantasies. He points out what appears to be an old garage (really an old carriage house) near the property’s north gate that will soon become the indoor shelter for the outdoor preschool. Learning outside feels dreamlike already. In this garden, dreams seem as real and tangible as the ground below.

The idea for the Discovery Garden first arose in 2017 at a visioning meeting among Imua staff and directors. Their goal was to discern community needs and imagine the future of early childhood development in Maui County. And as they visioned, they saw troubling trends in behavioral problems. More “outside” became a theme of solutions.

Even before the Covid-19 pandemic, today’s children spend less time in nature than prior generations. The numbers are shocking: children under 3 spend less than 30 minutes outdoors each day but spend more than three hours a day on devices. Wong says increased behavioral and developmental issues come as no surprise.

The Will Smith Imua Discovery Garden in Wailuku was constructed on the former estate of late Maui businessman and Realtor Masaru “Pundy” Yokouchi. The 6-acre grounds include 120-year-old monkey pod trees. Built by Imua Family Services, the garden is designed to give children a place to play outdoors, using their imaginations and getting away from technological devices.

“In my day, parents used to tell us to ‘Go, play outside, come back when the streetlights come on,’ ” he said.

“But that’s not true for kids anymore,” Wong continued. “Parenting today is so safe guarded. Playgrounds limit creativity; play dates are all arranged. We keep eliminating the risk of children having disappointment, and we keep pacifying them with tech instead of teaching them to use their imaginations.”

The Discovery Garden is built on the philosophy that when kids play outdoors, nature teaches them to problem solve, to navigate relationships and to learn from failure, Wong said. “It’s not rocket science.”

Dean walks over to the back lawn and down toward a valley of green and roots that will, awaiting permits, become tunnels and bridges made of natural materials where children will experience “navigating through space.”

“When my partner and I go to New York City, we bring our son to Central Park,” Wong said. “I assumed he would want to check out the merry-go-round, or the fountains, but you know where he wanted to play? On the rocks.”

Though instinctive, Wong points out that this simple fact lost in today’s society: Children

want to dwell in nature where they can use their imaginations.

When complete, Discovery Garden will invite kids to invent play, where the choices are as limitless as their own creativity.

“I always say, once you start to put a vision out into the universe, you can expect that things are about to move,” Wong said.

Following the 2017 visioning meeting, the idea for an outdoor preschool and garden was set in motion. The next step was finding a location: somewhere with space, but also central so it could serve the community.

Sure enough, the right answer sought them out. The children of the late, well-known local Maui businessman and Realtor Masaru "Pundy" Yokouchi approached Imua with an offer to take over the Yokouchi Estate in Wailuku.

As the founder of the Maui Arts and Cultural Center, Yokouchi believed in fostering art and exploration in the Maui community. While the family mostly used the property for entertaining, the same 6 acres, within walking distance from at least six preschools and schools, became a no-brainer for Imua.

Yokouchi's generosity as a philanthropist

directly influenced what Maui looks like today, and now his impact will be ongoing. The history of the property, however, predates his ownership. Prior to his purchase in 1991, the property was once the first manager’s residence for the Wailuku Sugar Co. plantation. Renowned American architect Charles W. Dickey – known for his designing of other notable Maui estates such as the Hui No‘eau in Makawao, as well as Seabury Hall’s Cooper House – designed the house that still crowns the property in 1937.

The white walls of the house stretch wide, nestling into the upper acres, backlit by the greenery of the West Maui Mountains. The tropical Downton Abbey has servants’ quarters, a formal dining room and four sizable bedrooms that now accommodate therapists and clinical staff as they relocate to the island. The beautiful outdoor veranda will continue to host events, as under the previous owners, in addition to a tea house for visitors to enjoy.

A rock canal cuts through the center of the property below the home and down the sloping green lawn. These remnants of stone form the Kama ‘Auwai Ditch that used to feed fresh water from Waikapu on one end, and ‘Iao

Artist rendering of carriage house converted to preschool

The Discovery Garden is built on the philosophy that when kids play outdoors, nature teaches them to problem solve, to navigate relationships and to learn from failure; children can climb on rocks and explore the natural landscape of the sprawling grounds. The former carriage house will become an indoor shelter for the outdoor preschool. The Renowned American architect Charles W. Dickey designed the impressive home on the property, built in 1937, which served as the first manager’s residence for the Wailuku Sugar Co. plantation.

Valley on the other, into this central meeting place, propelling the waters to run a 14-foot waterwheel. The exposed walls of variegated brown rock divide the lower portion of the garden into what will be a central walking path on one side and a stage area on the other.

This land has served many purposes – from the residence of King Kahekili II, who ruled Maui in the 18th century, to the missionary station of the Rev. Jonathan Green in 1832, who established the first thatched school nearby, to a female seminary run by Edward and Caroline Bailey of Massachusetts, who bought the land in 1942. Bailey & Son’s Sugar and Flour Plantation created the stone artifact that stands today, and the neighboring Hale Hō‘ike‘ike-Bailey House Museum run by the Maui Historical Society. The Discovery Garden cherishes this genealogy and its relationship with the museum that it physically envelopes – no fence line demarcates borders, fostering inclusion and participation from visitors of both places.

Under the direction of Hōkūao Pellegrino, sustainability and ‘aina-based learning designer and facilitator at Kamehameha Schools, an ethnobotanical garden in honor of Hawaiian history will soon grow from an empty lot on the Main

Street side of the museum. Children and visitors will find inspiration in the native plants, the shady hale, and the shadow of the stinkytoe tree (West Indian locust) and the stories they tell.

The tour concludes back where we started at the old carriage house, or the new future outdoor preschool, depending on how you look at it. Imua Family Services already offers a preschool for children of all abilities, but now they plan to take the learning outside.

“Here nature actually becomes the classroom,” Wong said. Mud tables, sitting logs, a garden and a bunny borough will all become the primary learning environment for the students. “The kids direct the learning, and the teachers design lessons to follow. If they want to build a veterinarian or post office, the class will create it themselves.”

After the lockdowns of Covid-19, outdoor learning doesn’t seem like a wild idea. “As a non-profit, I never thought I would launch a $5.5 million capital campaign in the middle of a global pandemic,” Wong said. While so many schools were forced to move haphazardly outside, this preschool is designed for outdoor learning. After being inside and isolated for so long, embracing the freedom that nature

HOW TO GET INVOLVED

Fundraising continues for the Will Smith Imua Discovery Garden. To contribute funds or other resources, contact Dean Wong at (808) 244-7467 or visit imuagarden.com and click “donate.”

provides makes more sense than ever before.

From the stage that will one day host Shakespeare plays, to the fields where food trucks will feed event goers, to the lawns where picnickers and plein air artists will ponder, to the “mooing” and “baaaaaing” of the animal paddocks, to the butterflies and music that will fill the air, Will Smith Imua Discovery Garden seems like a paradise for all to enjoy. The families who already benefit from the work of Imua Family Services will be joined by the countless others who will soon treasure this community space and the welcoming hands who run it.

The garden will celebrate a formal groundbreaking in May 2023, but its dreams are far from over. “If you think for a minute about Central Park, there is something going on in every nook and cranny of the grounds. So far, we’ve barely scratched the surface,” Wong said. “We are thinking even bigger now. What will this place be years from now? How will it continue to help the Maui community beyond the time that we get to spend here?”

Just like the mountain stream waters that once gathered here from the north and the south, the Will Smith Imua Discovery Garden turns a new tide for all of Maui.

Hula dancers Kanani Garso and Kelsi Badua perform in a beachside, sunset show at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au during the song, "He u‘i lani ‘oe," which translates, "You are of heavenly beauty," as sisters Pele and Hi‘iaka reconcile and display the Hawaiian value of the bond of family.

L U A U

Dance and music take audiences on a journey through time

By SERENE GUNNISON

Photographs by JOSHUA HARDIN & AZELAN AMUNDSON

On this page, wood carver Lafa’ele Folaumoeloa displays hand-carved ki‘i at the lū‘au. Preston Ako plays ukulele at the nightly shows. Reagan Timmins demonstrate the various hula implements used in the show. On the next page, hula dancer Tyler Rabara performs while Kumu Kapono Kamaunu provides rhythmic accompaniment on an ipu heke.

Apair of torches scarcely illuminates the darkened stage. The audience can hear the sound of waves crashing on the beach just beyond. Suddenly, drums start beating rapidly. The lights come on, and the hula performers come dancing onto the circular stage. This is the Old Lāhainā Lū‘au, one of Maui’s most genuine celebrations of island culture.

Cultural and historical accuracy are guiding principles at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au, and this fusion of education and entertainment is evident. As the

sun dips below the horizon and the stage lights go up, guests are taken on a journey through time, transported by hypnotic dance and mo‘olelo (stories) of Hawaiian gods and great leaders.

“The experience here at the Old Lāhainā Lū‘au is a little bit different. The show is all based around the history of Hawai’i,” said Kapono Kamaunu, the kumu who leads the dancers. “Each night the guests get a little glimpse of what the history is.”

As the show progresses, narrators give

On the previous page, hula dancers perform with ipu, which are made from gourds. Later in the show, dancers don tall, elaborate headdresses. Traditional Hawaiian dishes made with locally grown ingredients are presented in one of the four meal courses. Sous Chef Brandon Fujiwara prepares plates of food for lū‘au guests. Employees lift the leaves off the ‘imu, or underground oven, soon to reveal the roast pig that has spent hours inside steaming.

the audience an account of scenes from Hawaiian lore that the dances are depicting.

“Old Lāhainā Lū‘au helps us continue to perpetuate the culture and present it in an entertaining way, yet still educate the guests about the history,” Kamaunu said. “As practitioners, we get to tell the story through the chants, through the hula, through the music, through the mo‘olelo or the stories that we share about our Hawaiian people.”

The hula that you see at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au is a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation. All the songs and mele tell the story of Hawai’i. The show traces two millennia of Hawaiian history, beginning with the story of Pele’s voyage to the Hawaiian Islands and the first Polynesian settlement in the islands. Number by number, hula carries guests forward in time, depicting pre-contact

society, the arrival of the missionaries, the subsequent banishment of Hawaiian culture and the near-death of hula itself.

“The hula was banned for many, many years, until the Merrie Monarch, King David Kalakaua, restored the hula back in 1883 at his coronation ceremony,” Kamano said. “The hula that you see at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au are many of those hula that were restored during that era.”

Beyond the hula and historical depictions, all facets of Old Lāhainā Lū‘au are steeped in authenticity. Pre-show activities beckon guests to learn traditional dances, connect with Hawaiian artisans and watch as the ‘imu (underground oven) is unearthed, revealing the roast pig below. Come dinner, guests are given the opportunity to try a selection of traditional dishes, like pua‘a kālua (kālua pork), laulau (meat or fish dish

wrapped in taro leaves), poke and poi.

“We stick strictly to the Hawaiian culture, down to our food, to the show,” longtime Old Lāhainā employee Kona Pokipala said. “We try to educate our guests about even down to the taro root, our pre-shows and everything. It all has to do with Hawaiian native culture. … That’s what our culture is all about, anyway. Friends, ‘ohana (family), and just having a good time. That’s what we do here at the lū‘au.”

Through their dances, the hula dancers at Old Lāhainā Lū‘au tell the story of Hawaiian history and culture, including legends and historical events. Narrators help fill in the audience on the significance and meaning of the performances as they watch them. The dances and costumes at the lū‘au represent the ever evolving hula styles.

Sustainability Stewards

Meet some of the businesses and community members who are making our island – and the world – a better place.

By SERENE GUNNISON and ASHLEY PROBST

Eco-Friendly Ales

Maui Brewing Company, Kīhei

Maui Brewing Company’s beers are cooled by the sun.

While that might seem like an oxymoron, nearly every aspect of the brewery’s expansive operation is solar powered. Four thousand solar panels blanket Maui Brewing Company’s cathedral-like facility in Kīhei, powering everything from the taproom lights to the glycol jacket technology used to cool beer temperatures during brewing.

By supplementing solar energy with Tesla batteries and biodiesel generators, Maui Brewing Company became one of the first craft breweries in the nation to reach grid independence in 2019. Reduced energy costs and lucrative tax breaks made going off-grid a savvy financial move. But beyond the economic boons, sustainability has long been embedded in Maui Brewing Company’s ethos.

Since MBC’s inception in 2005, founder Garrett Marrero has introduced numerous sustainable initiatives, including donating spent grain to local farmers for feed, using locally sourced ingredients where possible and growing yeast to reduce freight costs and emissions. Another early effort involved eliminating glass bottles in favor of aluminum cans. Because of its light weight, aluminum is easier to recycle and results in less shippingrelated emissions than glass.

More recently, MBC decided to swap plastic six-pack holders with recyclable cardboard cartons. However, the most impressive and promising eco-friendly feature of Maui Brewing Company is its carbon reclamation system.

CO2 is an essential component in beer. How else would brews get their delightful fizz and tiny bubbles? Coincidentally, CO2 is a by-product of the brewing process. Rather than releasing that carbon into

the atmosphere, Maui Brewing Company invested in a CO2 recovery center, which compresses and filters the gas into “high purity” carbon. MBC’s captured carbon now accounts for sixty percent of the brewery’s CO2 needs.

Looking to the future, the brewery has its sights set on one day drawing CO2 from the atmosphere to carbonate its brews, soda

lines and effervescent hard seltzers. In the meantime, Marrero and the Maui Brewing team will continue to carve new notches into their well-worn belt of sustainability, setting the bar for what local businesses can achieve on Maui.

Maui Brewing Company (top-left); Jason Moore (top-right, bottom)

Green Getaways

Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa, Kā‘anapali

Much of Kā‘anapali’s sandy three-mile strip is dotted with luxe resorts. These lofty towers harbor expansive pool areas, outstanding restaurants and experiences archetypal of a Maui visit. When it comes to sustainability, one property has been a pioneer in leading the charge.

The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa has incorporated a long list of sustainable practices into its day-to-day operations. Some involve simple swaps, like stocking guest rooms with refillable aluminum water bottles. Others are wildly more complex, tackling issues of energy, water consumption and refuse.

The Hyatt has one of the largest rooftop

solar photovoltaic systems in Hawai‘i, which produces enough electricity to power 2,144 homes for a year. To curb water use, the resort installed advanced pool filtration systems and high-efficiency shower heads. And by adopting dynamic recycling practices and favoring purchases with eco-friendly packaging, Hyatt Maui has reduced its landfill-bound waste output by 37 percent.

As a result, the Hyatt is one of only two Leadership in Energy and Design (LEED) Gold-certified resorts in the state. To earn LEED certification, a project collects points by complying with requisites that address emissions, waste, water, energy and indoor environment quality.

While most of Hyatt’s sustainable practices happen behind the scenes, evidence of the resort’s green efforts is scattered throughout the property. Guests can take a self-guided

sustainability tour to learn more about Hyatt’s eco endeavors – and be reminded that sustainable tourism on Maui is shifting from chimera to reality.

200 Nohea Kai Dr., Lāhainā hyatt.com | (808) 661-1234

Hyatt Regency Maui (both)

Plastic-Free Made Easy Zero Waste Hale, Ha‘ikū

In today’s modern world, plastic seeps into every area of our lives. The average American discards over 280 pounds of plastic annually, and for many, the deluge seems unavoidable. But Ashley Bowman of Zero Waste Hale is determined to show people the light.

Bowman’s airy shop in Aloha ‘Aina Center in Ha‘ikū is stocked with practical alternatives to our plasticridden lives, like dish soap cubes, toothpaste tablets and shampoo bars. The space also includes an “Eco-Refill Bar,” where customers can fill reusable containers with non-toxic home cleaning products rather than buying them in plastic receptacles.

The overarching goal of Bowman’s zero-waste shop isn’t to push consumers toward a 100 percent zero-waste lifestyle but rather inspire the Maui community to cut back where they can. “This is all about progress versus perfection,” Bowman said. “I’m just trying to help people be more mindful and really think about their purchases.”

810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū

zerowastehale.com

IG @zerowastehale

Audrey Billups

Soulful Sunscreen One Love Body Soul, Ha‘ikū

Chaos theory says that a small, seemingly insignificant event can create a chain reaction that dramatically influences the future. For Erin Elizabeth, founder of One Love Body Soul (OLOVE), that moment came nearly a decade ago when marine researchers announced an unsettling discovery.

In 2015, a team of international scientists released a study concluding oxybenzone,

a common ingredient in sunscreen, can cause death and DNA damage in corals. The news pushed Erin – a passionate water woman who had begun to notice coral decline on Maui – to add reef-safe sunscreen to her budding organic skincare line, OLOVE.

Since releasing her first batch of sunscreen, One Love has grown exponentially. Retailers around the nation now carry OLOVE’s plastic-free products. Yet, despite her brand’s success, Erin never lost sight of her objective: ocean conservation. More recently, Erin's passion for the sea has

steered her into the political realm.

Erin was instrumental in helping pass Ordinance 5306, which prohibits the sale, use and distribution of non-mineral sunscreens in Maui County. The ordinance took effect on Oct. 1, 2022. Erin also helped to pass a similar bill on Hawai‘i Island and is now working with legislators on O‘ahu. “The point of it all is preservation,” Erin said. “Using mineral sunscreen will help preserve what little coral we have left.”

For a complete list of retailers, visit onelovebodysoul.com.

Taylor Jackson, Capture Maui Photography

Sweet Sustainability

Maui Ku'ia Estate Chocolate, Lāhainā

Owning and operating the largest chocolate factory in Hawai’i sounds like a sweet gig, though it wasn’t the original plan for Gunars Valkirs, CEO of Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate. After moving to Maui for retirement, Valkirs decided to take up cacao farming as a hobby on 20 acres of open plain in the ahupua‘a (Hawaiian land division) of Ku‘ia. He quickly discovered the only way to maintain a viable farm would be to make and sell chocolate.

In addition to a community-focused business model, Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate uses clean energy, zero-waste farming practices, and eco-friendly packaging.

“We’re off-the-grid here,” Valkirs said. “Making chocolate is a power-hungry business, so if you’re not generating your own energy, then it’s not clean when it’s all fossil fuel-generated and that’s a problem.”

The hot Lāhainā sun powers the factory during the day while Tesla batteries are charged to store the energy and keep things running at night and on the occasional cloudy day.

Upscale Upcycling

Michi.CO, Lāhainā

Plastic is notoriously harmful to the environment, but local business owner Michiko Smith is turning this infamous material into something beautiful and sustainable.

“Recycling here is so trash,” Smith said of Maui’s infrastructure. But instead of simply hoping for a new recycling center to open, she applied her environmental science degree and created Michi.CO sustainable home decor. The original collection features soap dishes, trinket trays, incense holders and vases – all of which are made using upcycled plastic.

According to the Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund, up to 20 tons of marine trash washes up on our coastlines annually, and 96 percent of it is plastic. Innovative businesses like Michi.CO are working to mitigate our plastic pollution problem.

The plastic she uses is sourced from local people, beaches and two Lāhainā-based businesses. This includes milk jugs and other No. 2 plastics from Nagasako General Store and bottle caps, (No. 4 plastics), from Choice Health Bar.

Smith sorts the plastics by color, removes any stickers, cleans and dries each piece, and

then puts it through a shredder machine up to 10 times.

The plastic pieces in Michi.Co’s collection have been mixed with cement, but Smith recently acquired a new machine that now allows her to manufacture products using 100 percent plastic. This change is necessary to keep up with the high volume of plastic that she accumulates. Once this transition is complete, production will be geared toward

When it comes to farming the cacao, everything gets returned to the soil. If trees need to be removed, the wood is chipped and redistributed as mulch, while the husks and cacao shells are thrown back into the field to decompose naturally. “There’s certainly no trash, no waste coming out of the farm,” Valkirs said.

Additionally, the company’s best-selling 5-gram pieces are packaged with sustainable materials: paper, wax and foil covering the chocolate piece – all of which can be composted.

And we can’t forget about the award-winning product within. “We do make world-class chocolate, it’s already been proven,” Valkis said, referencing accolades like the 2021 Cocoa of Excellence Gold Award, the 2022 Good Food Award and the 2022 ‘Aipono Award for Excellence in Sustainability.

making filament for 3D-modeled pieces.

The original Michi.CO collection can be found online and at zero-waste stores like Ho‘olawa Maui in Nāpili, Rooted in Wailuku, Zero Waste Hale in Ha‘ikū, Choice Health Bar, Westside Vibes, Manakai Swimwear, the Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center in Lāhainā and The Monarch Collective in Makawao.

michicodecor.com

Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate

Jason Moore

Low Footprint Fashion Dos Gardenias, Pā‘ia

Take a deep dive into the world of “fast fashion,” and you’ll quickly be met with a barrage of alarming statistics, from excessive water use to exorbitant pollution output. The good news? Not all fashion is inherently bad for the planet. Some brands are taking meaningful steps to become stewards of the environment.

Brighdie Grounds and Dorothy Day, founders of Dos Gardenias luxury swimwear, are making a name for themselves as luminaries in the sustainable fashion world.

Since 2020, Dos Gardenias swimwear has been made with ECONYL, regenerated nylon constructed from waste like fishing nets and industrial plastic. ECONYL is infinitely recyclable and massively reduces carbon emissions and crude oil use when compared to conventional nylon. The fabric is also fortuitously perfect for swimwear: stretchy, soft and chlorine resistant.

Beyond their fabric swap, Grounds and Day are steadfast in reducing Dos Gardenias’ carbon footprint. “From our packaging to our tags, really everything is sustainable,” Grounds said. “If there’s a sustainable approach, we take it.” In other products, the pair uses materials

like 100 percent cotton and neoprene made from limestone rather than petroleum.

In addition to their sustainable business practices, Grounds and Day work with like-minded nonprofits, including GLAM4GOOD, Waves 4 Water and Mauibased coastal clean-up organization, Love the Sea.

Fashion lovers can shop the sleek, sustainable collections at the Dos Gardenias Pā‘ia store, located at 106 Hāna Highway.

106 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia

Open daily, 10 am-5 pm

dosgardenias.com | (808) 856-0211

Dos Gardenias

Zero Waste & Plant-Based

Moku Roots, Lāhainā

Sustainability is woven into the core of Moku Roots, a zero-waste vegan and vegetarian restaurant in Lāhainā. Five years after its opening, Moku Roots remains the only zerowaste restaurant on Maui, highlighting both the utilitarian and nutritional power of plants.

The eatery’s plant-based menu prioritizes locally sourced ingredients, including produce from its own farm in Launiupoko.

This is where all the restaurant’s kale and collards are grown, in addition to herbs, bananas, papayas, avocados, ‘ulu and occasionally taro –though many items are outsourced from other

local farmers to keep up with demand.

When deliveries arrive, any packaging is reused or repurposed. All the compost created at the restaurant goes back to Moku Roots' farm, for a true farm-to-table-to-farm cycle.

On the consumer end, the restaurant doesn’t offer single-use takeout containers or utensils. Instead, to-go sandwiches and other handhelds are wrapped in ti leaves and banana husks, while other dishes can be taken home in a metal tin for a refundable $10 deposit.

There's also eco-friendly retail items available: reef-safe sunscreen, metal straws and bulk food items like beans, quinoa, or hot sauce.

When looking toward the future of this ecoconscious company, owner Alexa Caskey has big plans. One plan already in motion is the

acquisition of a second farm in Kula, which will give the restaurant more control over its supply chain.

“We’ll be putting into action regenerative farming practices, which I’m really passionate about,” Caskey said. “And hopefully get it to where we’re sourcing almost 100 percent of our produce from ourselves.”

A second restaurant is also in the works and is slated to be more than twice the size of the Lāhainā location. The space in Kahului will include a rooftop garden and dining, as well as solar panels to generate power for the property.

Jason Moore

by

Slack Key

George Kahumoku Jr.

Maui’s Renaissance man for the Hawaiian Renaissance

Peter von Buol with Chris Amundson

It is a beautiful Wednesday evening at Nāpili Kai Beach Resort in Nāpili on Maui’s west side. As the sun is setting over Nāpili Bay, legendary Maui musician George Kahumoku Jr. is on stage playing his signature 12-string guitar to open his weekly George Kahumoku Jr. Slack Key Show: Masters of Hawaiian Music.

Indeed, Kahumoku is one of the masters. He combines authentically Hawaiian slack key guitar finger work with lyrics steeped in Hawaiian heritage. Recently honored with a Nā Hōkū Hanohano Lifetime Achievement Award and winner of three Grammy Awards, Kahumoku just returned from traveling the mainland on his annual Masters of Hawaiian Music winter tour. After turning 72 in January, this Maui resident has no plans to slow down.

Now in its 20th year, Kahumoku’s Slack Key Show is one of Hawai‘i’s premier showcases for authentic Hawaiian music. Seated and

center stage in Nāpili Kai, Kahumoku opens the night performing “Kilakila O Haleakalā” a classic Hawaiian mele (song) that praises the “majestic” and “beautiful mountain of Maui,” “Glorious Maui, is the very best.”

He picks and strums his 12-string guitar with melodic, rhythmic fingerwork that sounds like three guitars in one – yet again proving he is one of the modern greats of Hawaiian slack key.

His deep voice delivers a mele that carries a lifetime of warm memories, a feeling he conveys convincingly during his performance. It’s a song he heard frequently as a child at large family gatherings at his grandparent’s farm on Hawai‘i Island. Kahumoku’s version might seem hauntingly familiar to Maui residents: A few years ago, he recorded a public service announcement advocating for water conservation during times of drought.

That radio spot provides a glimpse of how Kahumoku sees himself – he often reminds

friends and family the root name of “George” means “farmer.”

Despite having achieved worldwide acclaim as a musician and composer, in his own mind Kahumoku is steward of the land. While Kahumoku has earned a shelf full of music awards, he is just as proud of his Hawai‘i 4-H and top U.S. pork producer awards.

In his younger days, he owned a large beef and hog farm on Hawai‘i Island. Today, Kahumoku still raises crops and livestock on a 2 ½-acre farm in the Cliffs at Kahakuloa agricultural subdivision 8 miles north of Wailuku.

Chickens, sheep and miniature horses roam his farm. Fruit trees and traditional canoe plants carried by the original Polynesian settlers dot the farmyard and hillside, including 51 varieties of taro that he plants according to moon cycles.

Each morning, after breakfast on the lānai, he visits the pen of his horses to scoop and redistribute the “fuel that the runs the farm.”

Chris Amundson

George Kahumoku Jr. enjoys Nāpili Bay before his Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Show. On stage, Kahumoku sings and plays his signature 12-string guitar. Kahumoku tends to his sheep on his farm 8 miles north of Wailuku in the West Maui Mountains.

Jason Moore (opposite, above and below)

“The thing is, I love being on the land and growing things. It’s a big part of my Hawaiian soul,” he said. “Even weeding is a favorite thing that calms me and gives me focus.”

Back at Nāpili later the same night, Kahumoku performs “Ho‘okupu Kamapua‘a,” a tale of the tumultuous love affair between Tūtū Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, and Kamapua‘a, the superhuman hog-man.

The hog-man pursues the fire goddess, but the two quarrel and became embroiled in battle. Their fight moves through the chain of Hawaiian islands, creating new land wherever they scuffle. At one point in the mele’s refrain, Kahumoku snorts like a pig – his Nāpili audience erupts in laughter.

Kahumoku’s DNA and upbringing are steeped in Hawaiian traditions. He traces his musical lineage back to one of Hawai‘i’s first slack key guitarists, George Kuluwaimaka Kaleohano Kauila Mahikoa Kahumoku of Hawai‘i Island. Like the axis deer overpopulation on Maui today, Hawai‘i Island in the 1800s had a cattle problem. Wild cattle introduced during the reign of King Kamehameha I were destroying land, crops and eating roofs off thatched houses.

In the 1830s, King Kamehameha III brought Spanish-speaking vaqueros ( cowboys) to Hawai‘i Island and Maui to teach Hawaiians to capture, herd and domesticate the cattle, launching Hawai‘i’s cattle industry.

As cowboys are known to do, the vaqueros often played their Spanish guitars and sang songs around the campfire. When they departed Hawai‘i, they also left behind their guitars, but hadn't taught their Hawaiian paniolo (cowboy) students how to play or tune them.

Through trial and error, the paniolo, including Kahumoku’s ancestor, developed their own methods of tuning that slackened or tightened each string to allow for melodic and chordal possibilities that hadn't existed before in traditional tunings.

Each family developed its own ki ho‘alu (loosen the key) tunings – possibly hundreds existed – which were closely-held secrets until the mid-1900s. These tunings, along with the manner the guitars were played, became known as Hawaiian slack key.

The vaqueros were not the only outsiders to influence Hawai‘i in the 1800s. Industrialists and Christian missionaries came. They brought religion, commerce, new types of land use and

influence that threatened to exterminate traditional Hawaiian culture and traditions. As was happening to the native tribes on the mainland, ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language), hula (dance) and oli (chants, songs and oral histories) were at risk of being snuffed out.

Though the guitar was of European descent, slack key playing was more closely related to traditional Hawaiian ways. Slack key remained an underground folk art that incubated virtually unknown to the outside world for a century. Then, Hawaiian music and culture burst onto the world scene at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. Within a year, Americans bought more recordings of Hawaiian music than any other genre of music.

However, two other instruments – the steel guitar (a Hawaiian invention) and the ‘ukulele (an adaptation of a Portuguese instrument) – took center stage. Slack key guitarists performed as background accompaniment.

Finally in 1946, slack key broke through with a recording by Gabby Pahinui – a haunting version of an old Hawaiian love song “Hi‘ilawe.”

skill demonstrated slack key guitar could become a lead instrument.

Pahinui’s

Chris Amundson

Kahumoku and Danson Lindsey perform at the Made in Maui County Festival. A young Kahumoku plays with his brother, Moses. Grammys and other awards are displayed at his home. Kahumoku shares a moment with protégé J.J. Jerome.

Hawai‘i tourism and interest in Hawaiian language and culture increased after World War II. Eventually in the 1960s, the heightened respect for Hawaiian language and culture sparked what became known as the Hawaiian Renaissance.

Many serious musicians eschewed the commercialized steel guitar and ‘ukulele music that was associated Waikiki tourists. They looked to Hawai‘i’s history for inspiration. They found it in slack key guitar, which became a lead instrument of this nascent cultural movement.

Through birth, timing and location,

Kahumoku was positioned to help lead the Hawaiian Renaissance.

Born in 1951, as a child Kahumoku was immersed in cattle farming, music and Hawaiian mele at his grandparents’ South Kona cattle ranch on Hawai‘i Island.

One of six children, Kahumoku was part of a large ‘ohana (family) – grandparents, greatgrandparents, aunties, uncles and cousins. Family gatherings were celebrations infused with adults playing musical instruments – especially ‘ukulele and guitar in the slack key style.

After the adults tired for the night, the children would sneak away with the guitars and ‘ukuleles and try their best to imitate what they saw and heard.

“Besides me, we had 26 cousins running around like crazy,” Kahumoku said. “The jams would go on for days.”

By watching his relatives, Kahumoku learned different methods of playing, including slack key. By the early 1960s, Kahumoku could play one song very well.

When he was five, his parents moved his family to O‘ahu, where his father, George

Chris Amundson

Jason Moore

Kahumoku Sr., worked at the city and county sanitation department. Kahumoku attended Kamehameha School-Kapalama Campus and worked a part-time job cleaning cars at Lippy Espinda's used-car dealership.

On his breaks, he would sit outside and play slack key. The dealership was next door to a strip club. One day, one of the club’s performers approached Kahumoku and asked about his guitar playing. The singer was Kuiokalani (Kui) Lee (soon to become famous for his song “I’ll Remember You”). Lee had quietly noticed Kahumoku’s proficiency on slack key, and though Kahumoku was only a teenager, Lee asked him to play a song at the club.

Later, Kahumoku recalled: “I knew my folks would kill me if they found out.”

But he went anyway and played his one song (“Grandpa Willy’s Slack Key”), which took him less than three minutes. The audience went crazy and threw money on stage.

Young Kahumoku went outside and counted – $27.10, more than a whole month’s pay of washing cars. He was hooked.

“I knew then I wanted to become a musician,” Kahumoku said.

The Kahumoku family’s move from Hawai‘i Island to O‘ahu proved to be key in his musical upbringing. Kamehameha High School nurtured student interest in Hawaiian music and became an incubator for not only Kahumoku, for but many of his classmates who became legendary Hawaiian musicians who helped usher in the Hawaiian Renaissance.

They included: Dennis Kamakahi, Aaron Mahi, Keola Beamer, Jerry Santos, Kalena Silva and Kaniela Akaka Jr.

While Kahumoku enjoyed performing music, he also wanted to pursue a degree in art. After graduation and through the generosity of a trustee at Kamehameha Schools, he attended an art college in California, where he earned degrees in art and education.

Upon college graduation in 1973, he returned home to Hawai‘i Island and worked briefly as a welder (a skill he had learned as an artist). During the summer, he went to Alaska to work on the oil pipeline. After he returned home again, Kamehameha Schools recruited him to be principal of what was then a small alternative school in South Kona, Hale O Ho‘oponopono. The school’s curriculum emphasized traditional Hawaiian knowledge alongside a Western-style education. Kahumoku also started working with Alu Like, a native Hawaiian social-services provider.

By the early 1970s, the Hawaiian Renaissance had fully blossomed with a strong interest in traditional Hawaiian arts and traditions, including music, language, crafts, farming, fishing, hula, history and literature. Having grown up in an extended family connected to the past and present, Kahumoku was well-positioned to make an impact in the Renaissance.

During his early tenure at the school, one of the leading voices of the Hawaiian Renaissance, Winona Kapuailohiamanonokalani Desha Beamer, came to help the new school get off the ground. Working with Kahumoku, she quickly became impressed by his ability to successfully teach both Western and traditional Hawaiian knowledge. Soon, she

described him as “Hawai‘i’s Renaissance Man.”

In the mid-1970s, Kahumoku also teamed up with his brother, Moses Kahumoku, to perform evenings at the luxurious Mauna Kea Beach Hotel on Hawai‘i Island. The pair released albums as The Kahumoku Brothers. George and Moses were a perfect match. George was rooted in traditional music, and Moses was interested in jazz and Latin music.

To this day, after their father, George credits Moses as having had the biggest influence on his musical career. During their performances, the pair often would seamlessly interweave their guitars with their different tunings. Playing with Moses introduced George to the minor keys and to frets on the neck of the guitar that were not used by other slack key guitarists.

Due to their authenticity, in 1979 The Kahumoku Brothers accompanied the late Edith K. Kanaka‘ole on her groundbreaking album Hi‘ipoi I Ka ‘Aina Aloha. The album won the 1980 Nā Hokū Hanohano Award for best traditional album. The first track on the album “Ka Uluwehi O Ke Kai,” which featured The Kahumoku Brothers on guitar and background vocals, became an instant classic. Watching Kanaka‘ole write her own songs provided the brothers the impetus to become songwriters.

In the mid-1990s, Hawai‘i’s slack key guitarists gained prominence on the mainland when George Winston, a platinum-selling jazz musician with a major distribution deal for his Dancing Cat Records label, began an ambitious project to record a series of Hawaiian

Chris Amundson

George Kahumoku

slack key artists on solo and duo acoustic recordings.

Winston had fallen in love with slack key years earlier when he had picked up a copy of Gabby Pahinui and Eddie Kamae’s Sons of Hawai‘i’s 1971 Five Faces album.

Winston describe’s Kahumoku’s music as a “beautiful, vibrant and unique sound” with a “very powerful rhythm, especially with the pull offs on the guitar, playing and fretting one note, then rapidly pulling the finger off the fretted note to sound the open (unfretted) note on that string.”

Winston considers Kahumoku one of Hawai’i’s “most accomplished composers.” Kahumoku has other abilities that make him a terrific stage performer, too.

“He loves sharing the history of the songs, along with playing his own unique and personal interpretations, as well and being a great interpreter of traditional songs and songs by other composers,” Winston said.

As of 2023, Dancing Cat has released 39

Kahumoku plays music on his lānai at his farm. His wife, Nancy, appears at a show in Chicago; he and Nancy met after he began recording for Dancing Cat Records, where she worked. Art that accompanies his sheet music in a new book depicts ‘ōpae‘ula (Hawaiian red shrimp) –it goes with a song he wrote about a childhood memory of Edith Kanaka‘ole sending him up a river to get shrimp for her. Breakfast on his lānai includes eggs from the chickens on his farm.

recordings in its still-ongoing Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Masters series. Many did favorably on Billboard’s World Music Chart, and six recordings won Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards for Instrumental Album of the Year. Kahumoku has also won three Grammy Awards for Best Hawaiian Music album for his work on three compilations albums: Legends of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar-Live from Maui (2007), Treasures of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar (2008) and Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar (2010).He had also co-produced the 2006 winner, Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Vol. 1, but due to a clerical error, had not been listed as a producer, a requirement to be awarded a Grammy for a compilation album.

For Kahumoku, the increased exposure from Dancing Cat Records made him an indemand concert performer. It also brought him into contact with Winston’s sister, Nancy, who had worked for the label. Kahumoku and Nancy fell in love and are now married and living on their farm on Maui.

“Nancy is the heart, body, soul and hands that keeps the engine of the business running,” Kahumoku said. She manages the weekly Wednesday evening shows at the Nāpili Kai Beach Resort. Behind the scenes, she also manages the music contracts, licensing, royalty agreements and marketing. Trained as a swing dancer, she switch to hula ‘auana (contemporary hula) and often accompanies her husband on stage.

While there has long been some mainland interest in Hawaiian music, the increased visibility of Dancing Cat Records had made it much easier for the label’s artists to secure bookings. After Dancing Cat released Kahumoku’s Drenched by Music album in 1997, he joined the Masters of Slack Key Festival, and has continued to tour mainland cities ever since.

Slack key guitarist David Kahiapo, who has toured with Kahumoku, said there is no better description for Kahumoku than “Hawai‘i’s Renaissance Man.”

Chris Amundson (both)

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Kahumoku gathers apple bananas at his Maui farm.

Chris Amundson

“His humble upbringing among many siblings and cousins was in a classic clan ‘ohana style,” Kahiapo said. “He is a very giving man who manages acres of farmland growing fruits, vegetables, different kinds of animals. He also has passion for mentoring the next generation and shares the stage with younger, aspiring musicians.”

Among those Kahumoku is currently mentoring is Anthony Pfluke, a 21-year-old Maui-born ‘ukulele and slack key musician. Kahumoku had been impressed with Pfluke’s talent at the 2013 Hula Grill ‘Ukulele Contest. After Pfluke’s success with the 2015 contest, Kahumoku convinced Pfluke to let him teach him slack key guitar. He now performs at shows alongside Kahumoku and shares his thoughts and reflections of his mentor:

“The structure and the way that he operates with a methodical way of living and playing has influenced me,” Pfluke said. “He creates a divine rhythm which really resonates through his music, through his artistry and through his farming and life in general.

“Whether it’s something he’s drawing or something he’s sculpting or a song he’s creating, he has a methodical way of intertwining his thoughts. And he makes these beautiful songs, and when he plays them live, I feel like he invites you into the realm where that song was created.

“Sometimes, it is an incredible realm, such as a song about Tūtū Pele. I will be performing on stage with Uncle George, but I am also in this amazing place.

“He exudes being grounded. This feeling creates a sense of place with his music, and he takes you there every time he plays the songs.”

For Kahumoku, being a musician has provided a platform to sing and talk to audiences all around the world about his aloha for Hawai‘i.

His primary philosophy has always been to appreciate what he has been given, and to give back. He mentors young musicians because a future legend, Kui Lee, gave him help at the beginning of his career.

In farming, he follows the philosophy of his grandfather, Willy Kahumoku, who believed one should always add to the layer of soil, not strip it so future generations would have success. As an educator who blends traditional knowledge with Western knowledge, he shows students to appreciate what their ancestors knew and how they can have success in the future.

WITHIN THE LAYERS

A Modern Ha‘iku Home

Story by SERENE GUNNISON

Photographs by TRAVIS ROWAN

Down a sequestered driveway, beyond a tangle of ginger and monstera, sits a faceless, monolith-like structure.

At least, that’s how it appears from the car park outside of the garage. But as you step around the corner and into the facade, this unique Ha‘ikū home begins to reveal layers of distinct character and charm.

A white staircase reminiscent of the entryway to the Getty Center in Los Angeles carries guests to the front door. This likeness isn’t a coincidence – the homeowners took cues from the museum’s marbled entrance while designing the home.

As the enormous front door swings open, it pivots on hinges fastened to the floor and ceiling, swiveling to reveal a sleek foyer. Inside, the museum resemblance continues. An impressive art collection hangs from the walls and, much like the Getty, expansive views abound. But rather than looking out over layers of smog and concrete, the home’s floor-toceiling windows frame views of the white capped Pacific Ocean and a sloping hillside of varied greens.

Beyond the transfixing views, the home’s interior is a curated masterpiece that blends minimalism, texture and dashes of mid-century modern flair. Meanwhile, the compartmentalized design allows each room to have a contrasting style while maintaining a cohesive flow.

The elongated main wing houses a kitchen, dining area and living space with palpably different styles. In the kitchen, textured blue tiles pop against rich brown walnut cabinetry. To the right, a minimalist dining area sits beneath a modern glass bubble chandelier. A walnut wall creates a natural break between the dining and living space, which buzzes with splashes of color from the eclectic art collection, velvety blue couch and media center lined with pottery and stacks of books. On the opposite end of the home, walls of variegated travertine tile from Italy line the hallway leading to the primary bedroom. A minimalist theme is evident in this wing, but despite the minimal furnishings, touches of design flair light up the space. A single wall in the primary bathroom is blanketed in a white textured tile that resembles rigid edges of lettuce leaves. Down the hall, the homeowners' art studio is a far cry from the minimalist design in the bedroom, with colorful projects in various stages of completion strewn about.

From this section of the home, towering floor-to-ceiling windows present views of a manicured mass of native plants. The rectangular plot slopes downhill, bearing a resemblance to a living wall. Like the tiles throughout the home, the different plants provide a range of textures, which as precisely the homeowners’

The home's floor-to-ceiling windows offer expansive views of the Pacific Ocean. The enormous front door pivots on hinges fastened to the floor and ceiling to reveal a sleek foyer.

Near the front door, a staircase descends to the home’s lower level; at the foot of the stairs, two large windows peer into an atrium brimming with ferns, fan palms and monstera. In the kitchen, textured blue tiles pop against rich brown walnut cabinetry; three bar stools provide seating at the kitchen's large island. Adjacent to the kitchen is a minimalist dining area, where a table and chairs are situated beneath a modern glass bubble chandelier; a walnut wall creates a natural break between the dining and living areas.

41ST ANNUAL SEASON

FRIDAY, MAY 12 • 7:00 pm

Makawao Union Church

MONDAY, MAY 15 • 7:00 pm

The Historic ‘Iao Theater, Wailuku

WEDNESDAY, MAY 17 • 6:00 pm

Wananalua Congregational Church, Hana

FRIDAY, MAY 19 • 7:00 pm

Keawala‘i Congregational Church, Makena

SUNDAY, MAY 21 • 5:00 pm

The Historic ‘Iao Theater, Wailuku

KATHERINE COLLIER, PIANO AND MUSIC DIRECTOR

YIZHAK SCHOTTEN, VIOLA AND MUSIC DIRECTOR

Andrés Cárdenes, violin

Robert deMaine, cello

Rohan De Silva, piano

Amir Eldan, cello

Tara Helen O’Connor, flute

Daniel Phillips, violin and viola

Susie Park, violin

Cory Smythe, piano

goal when crafting the garden by hand – a “nightmare” which proved to be a backbreaking yet rewarding undertaking.

Near the front door, a staircase descends to the home’s lower level. The staircase and foyer are separated by vertical wooden slats, which transform the morning light into zebra stripes on the opposite wall. At the foot of the stairs, two large windows peer into an atrium brimming with ferns, fan palms and monstera.

A narrow hallway leads to an office, guest bedroom and ensuite, where forest green tiles liven up the polished space. At the end of the hallway, socks are peeled off as the homeowners open the backdoor to the pool area, the gray limestone-colored porcelain tiles still wet from the morning rain. In the pool house, copper mule mugs stand out against the room’s blue and white hues, and one could only imagine the pool parties and summer afternoon barbecues that this room has hosted.

From this vantage point near the pool, the spacious 6,600-square-foot home seems etched into the hillside, working with the landscape rather than dominating it. The same is true of the homeowners. When they first purchased the property in 1999, not a single tree graced the land.

Today, the property’s 18 acres are a sea of green and even host an orchard with citrus, jackfruit, lychee, mango and banana. Along the orchard, horses graze in an emerald pasture, which at one time also housed cows, but “they just went into the freezer,” said one of the homeowners, chuckling. For him, the bountiful property is the culmination of a lifelong dream. “It was a long-term plan,” he said. “When I was finally able to retire, that’s what I would do, work on the little farm.”

Self-sufficiency and sustainability are indeed motifs at this Ha‘ikū property: The home was built using the BONE Structure system, which uses infinitely recyclable steel and precise technology to eliminate unnecessary construction waste. The house is outfitted with 100 solar panels and a water catchment system to conserve runoff for irrigation use. The homeowners even grew most of the trees on the property from seeds instead of purchasing plants shipped in from the mainland.

While talk of realizing goals and planting seeds continues, a tortoiseshell cat emerges from the hallway, rubbing against a bench bearing a stack of old Travel + Leisure magazines.

It’s clear now: within this monolithic home exists a world of elegant design, of personal touch, of stories and dreams coming to fruition – a home.

The living area buzzes with splashes of color from the eclectic art collection, velvety blue couch and media center lined with pottery and stacks of books. The primary bedroom has a minimalist theme, as does much of this wing of the house, with the exception of the homeowners' art studio; walls of variegated travertine tile from Italy line the hallway leading to the bedroom.

Resources

Construction

Boyd Construction 22 Ohaoha Pl. Makawao (808) 283-8722 boydmaui.com

Architecture See Architecture Oakland, California see-architecture.com

Doors

Pacific Millworks 375 #21 W Kuiaha Rd. Ha‘ikū (808) 575-7555 pacificmill.com

Horses graze in an emerald pasture on the 18-acre property, which also includes an orchard with citrus, jackfruit, lychee, mango and banana trees.

Craving

Jessica Everett delivers a plate of kanpachi tiradito de oliva at Lima Cocina + Cantina, a colorful new Peruvian hot spot in Pā‘ia.

Maui

Latin American restaurants have taste buds dancing the salsa

By CARLA TRACY Dining Editor

“Liquor is quicker down in Costa Rica” crooned blues legend Taj Mahal. Yet Taj’s taste buds would – in record-setting time, no doubt – be dancing the salsa with cocktails and cuisine at exotic Latin American restaurants right here on Maui.

In Pā‘ia, eyes are drawn to the yellow neon sign in the dining room of Lima Cocina + Cantina that reads, “Bad decisions make good stories.” Adding fun vibes to this Peruvian hot spot are big-band salsa dancing on alternate Saturdays, “Got Pisco?” T-shirts worn by the staff, and innovative

presentations on the South American food and drink.

What’s pisco, you may ask? It’s a brandy distilled from grape juice into a high-proof spirit in Peru and Chile. You may imbibe in cocteles tradicionales (traditional cocktails) such as the pisco sour with lime, cane sugar

and egg white and the pisco punch with pineapple gum, lemon and bitters. Or sip cocteles nuevo (new cocktails) such as the cucurrucucú paloma with tequila, grapefruit and absinthe.

Xavier “Val” Valcarcel and his wife, Alicia Valcarcel opened Lima Cocina +

Mieko Horikoshi (opposite, above)

Photographs MIEKO HORIKOSHI & JASON MOORE

Cantina in May 2022 using authentic recipes from his native Peru.

“I wanted to keep it very traditional,” Val said. “All of the recipes are from my grandmother.”

When the Valcarcels moved to Maui five years ago, there was little or no Latin food on the island. They credit their cousin, Gustavo Valcarcel, for helping to make the restaurant a reality.

The top selling entrée is lomo saltado (stir-fried tenderloin) cooked in a wok at very high heat with shoyu, tomatoes, French fries and onions, with a side of rice.

Lima also serves fresh ceviche, using kampachi from Hawai‘i Island tossed with lime, fish stock and chilies. The stock brings the acidity down, instead of using coconut juice.

A signature raw fish dish is tiradito de oliva of fresh sashimi with olive oil, capers, avocado and Hawaiian sea salt, topped with crispy calamari, served in traditional Peruvian cold-hot contrast called carretillero (streetcart style).Main courses are pescado a la plancha (grilled fish) of fresh mahi-mahi with garlic, herbs, potatoes and mango salsa; and arroz con pollo, or cilantro rice with chicken thighs and vegetables in salsa criolla. Churros make a sweet dessert.

How have Lima’s Peruvian dishes been received on Maui? “Well received,” Val said, in part because Peruvian cuisine has Asian influence like shoyu, ginger and wok frying. And what of “+ Cantina”?

“Latin people like to eat and drink and dance,” Val said. Kids and old-timers alike from all sides of the borders come out for big-band salsa dancing on alternate Saturdays and cut a wide rug of Latin music and dance: salsa, cumbia, merengue and reggaeton with a side of rock ‘n’ Español.

Fuego Argentinean Steakhouse is igniting wildfire-like interest as the newest kid on Maui’s Latino restaurant block. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it is a South American odyssey, continents away from tastes at other local restaurants in Central Maui.

While it doesn’t have, say, views of worldfamous Iguazu Falls in Argentina, Fuego does boast an epic panorama of the West Maui Mountains from its optimum position overlooking the greens and a large pond at The Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course.

Adding to the ambience are new booths on the patio with brick-oven-colored cushions, a decorative drinking well, a fire-red

neon Fuego sign and even an old-fashioned candy store that is like a museum of Argentinean culture from a past snippet in time.

“Partner/Executive Chef Pablo Santiensanio is Argentinean, and this was his dream,” said Kitchen Manager Ruben Macias, a native of Mexico who has cooked at top restaurants on Maui for decades from Longhi’s to the Cafe O‘Lei family franchise. “Together, we made it a reality.”

“Fuego” means “fire” in Spanish. No doubt, Ruben knows his fire. Every day at 4 p.m., the smell of his kiawe-wood fired steaks starts wafting onto the golf course. Kiawe (Maui’s version of mesquite) comes through as delicious char flavor.

Sip an Evita Margarita named after former Argentinean first lady Evita Perón or opt for the Last Tango rum favorite. Check out the sexy pictures of tango dancers and soccer players as you sip. Crunch fresh grilled corn and sink your teeth into langostino (small relatives of lobster), the latter grilled on the asador and accompanied by cherry tomatoes, shaved fennel, cabbage and garlic mayo.

All steaks are certified Angus beef and range from New York to bife gaucho

Jason Moore (both)

Kiawe wood-fired steaks like the 14oz hand-cut ojo de bife (rib eye steak) and curated appetizers like charcuterie boards are staples at Fuego Argentinian Steakhouse, a new eatery at The Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course.

(tomahawk steak). Or choose pollo asado (roast chicken) and costillar de cordero (grilled lamb).

True carne aficionados will even find chinchulines (small intestines), mollejas (sweetbreads) and morcilla (blood sausages). Plentiful vegetable sides, appetizers, salads, pastas, pizzas and house specialties will make others happy at the table. The undisputed masterpiece is manzana flameado, an apple pancake flamed in rum and topped with freshly whipped cream.

General Manager Nicholas Roustan, who has experience at Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Wailea, said Fuego Argentinean Steakhouse is fine dining. The team’s goal is to continue to elevate the culinary offerings of Central Maui, he said.

Maui restaurant lovers are jumping with joy in welcoming the re-emergence of a charming Central Maui favorite, The Empanada Lady Restaurant & Lounge, in Wailuku. It had closed due to construction of the county’s multi-level parking garage on Vineyard

Jason Moore (both)

Proprietor Sara Kleiven (right) and her daughter, Tanama Colibri, are familiar faces at The Empanada Lady Restaurant & Lounge in Wailuku, which features flavorful Carribbean fares like empanadas and Cuban sandwiches.

Street, and it’s doing the marimba right in the thick of things although the project is far from complete. For now, walk a few extra steps and find a place to park. It’s worth every bite.

Maui’s only sit-down Caribbean restaurant is a rainbow of taste, color and music – breezy and open air with water features. You’ll find Dominican slow roast pork served with homemade chimichurri sauce, Jamaican coconut curry shrimp, Puerto Rican pastele stew (served Fridays), and a variety of flavored empanadas – all aromatic and elevated by gracious Chef/Owner Sara Kleiven, a native of the Dominican Republic who moved to Hāna in 2008.

“In Hāna, children lined up outside my house starting at 6:30 a.m. for my cooking,” Sara said. “When they saw me at Hāna Bay, they’d scream, ‘There she is: the Empanada Lady!’ The name stuck. My daughter wrote a theme song for me.”

In fact, Sara’s daughter, singer-songwriter Tanama Colibri, has performed everywhere

from Paris to the stage of The Empanada Lady. Live music is an integral part of her mom’s restaurant, and Tanama performs there between table service.

“We are open weekdays for lunch and Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner, and we feature nightly entertainment,” said Tanama, a Dominican/Puerto Rican beauty who not only resembles Sade, but she performs the famous singer’s covers as well as her own original tunes.

“On Wednesdays, we have an open mic variety show,” Tanama continued, “Thursdays, we feature local jazz musicians Phil and Angela Benoit. Fridays is our Latin dance night with a DG. Saturday, it’s Jazz night hosted by Jazz Maui society and Bryant Neal.”

Besides a complete refurbishment of the downstairs dining rooms that boasts colorful artwork by the illustrious Frank B. Shaner, more is coming.

“We are creating a nightlife in Wailuku,” Tanama said. “However, I do want to emphasize that we are family friendly, an all-age establishment.”

The good news is, music generally starts early, like at 6 p.m., so even geezers can get up and cut a rug before an early bedtime.

As for the food, order and share the trio of empanadas, which are either sweet or savory Caribbean puff pastries with a dipping sauces. Fillings include Cuban picadillo beef, Puerto Rican adobo chicken, Dominican-style kālua pork, Jamaican vegan chickpea, mushroom and spinach, and sweet banana with powdered sugar.

Main dishes such Jamaican jerk chicken come with your choice of guandule rice (died yellow from achiote seed and blended with pigeon peas and green olives) or black bean coconut rice and a green salad. Tostones, or fried plantains, are thick and crisp chip substitutes. Do try the new Cuban ropa vieja (shredded flank steak) or the snapper in a Caribbean cream sauce with capers and coconut milk.

Remember to bring your dancing shoes.

Latino food lovers may also get their fix at farmers markets, food trucks, cafes and more across the island. Every Saturday at the Upcountry Farmers market at the Kulamalu Town Center in Pukalani, you may get your Latino mojo working. Maui Empanadas attracts a line-up of shoppers, who wait for savory dough pies. Fillings include the Ho‘okipa with grass-fed beef, green and

Lima Cocina + Cantina's pisco-rich cocktail menu features Pisco Sour, the official drink of Peru (pictured). The restaurant carries four different types of the Peruvian brandy.

Mieko Horikoshi

Tribute to Mama's Fish House Founders

The Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului hosted a colorful Celebration of Life and Love for the founders and owners of the world-famous Mama’s Fish House in Kuau.

Maui’s most iconic restaurant couple was known as the “mama” and the “papa” of their family-owned establishment that thousands of diners have come to know and love.

Floyd Eldon Christenson, 88, passed away Nov. 18, 2022 under Hospice Care. His wife, Doris Oden Christenson, 84, predeceased him June 24, 2021, at Maui Memorial Medical Center.

Celebrating 50 years in business, Mama’s Fish House is the most sought-after restaurant on Maui for visitors and residents alike, and it can take up to a half year to get a table. It was only fitting that emcee Eric Gilliom joked that when Floyd met Doris at the Pearly Gates, St. Peter told them they would need “a reservation and six months to get in.”

At the tribute, held in February, awardwinning vocalist Amy Hānaiali‘i Gilliom sang "In This Life," Kyani Bateman, daughter of

Executive Chef Perry Bateman, performed hula. So did Hālau Kamaluokaleihulu with Floyd and Doris’ daughter Karen Christenson. The couple also is survived by son Keith Christenson and 5 grandchildren. There were more tributes to this iconic couple from friends and family.

Floyd and Doris lived their dream by sailing the South Pacific before making Maui their home in 1962. They started Mama’s Fish House in 1973 and forever changed the culinary landscape by supporting local farmers, fishers and crafts people. They raised the bar of dining excellence on the island, and they helped customers create lifelong memories of dining at “Mama’s.”

The Christenson’s restaurant legacy will live on under the direction of daughter Karen, and team leaders Tami Joslin, Scott Burns and Chef Perry Bateman.Looking to the future there are also two third generation members of the Christenson family starting to get their feet wet in the business.

– Carla Tracy

white onions, peppers, boiled egg and Kalamata olives; and the vegan Pā‘ia empanada with spinach, carrots, mushrooms, zucchini and sesame seeds.

A few booths away, Da Pasteles dishes up a taste of Puerto Rico with what else, pasteles and pastele stew. Pasteles are basically Puerto Rican tamales, but the masa is made of green plantains instead of the typical Mexican corn. Fillings are pork adobo. Owner-chef Kapa Haskell uses his grandparent’s recipe for pastele stew, which adds in tomato sauce base, cilantro and black olives and colors it more with achiote.

Coffee lovers also line up at Alba’s Cuban Coladas food truck between the Upcountry Farmers Market and Long’s CVS store. Potent espressos and steamed-milk-infused cortaditos coffee will perk you up for whatever comes your way. The business is named after the Cuban-born grandmother of the

owner. Get your empanadas here, too.

Maui Coffee Roasters in Kahului may be famous for its Hawaiian coffees, but its owner, Nicky “Beans” Matichyn, purveys a light roast from beans grown under the Fuego volcano at La Antigua, Guatemala (remember what “fuego” means); a Brazilian Mogiana dark roast and a Columbian supremo, to boot. Buy bags to take home and brew yourself.

Maui Puerto Rican Association has its own cultural center at Heritage Hall Maui in upper Pā‘ia. Go online to find out about occasional cooking classes and some lively music and dancing and community events.

Last, but not least of our Latin tour of Maui, Momona Bakery & Coffee Shop in Kahului opened in February across from First Hawaiian Bank on the corner of Ka‘ahumanu and Pu‘unene avenues. Partners Sophia Brassolo and Lucia Sabbione hail from

Buenos Aires, and Silvana Larcher is from Cordova, Argentina. The ladies moved here independently over the decades and met each other on island.

“We are baking European and French pastries and feature Argentinean pastries such as alfajor like a cookie sandwich with dulce de leche,” Sophia said. “We also do moist cakes, cheesecakes, lemon and marble loaves, cookies and medialunas, or ‘halfmoons,’ similar in shape to a croissant but very different in taste – plain or with fillings.”

“There is a huge community of Argentineans on Maui,” Sophia added. “We live mainly in Hā‘iku, Lāhainā and Kīhei. Us Argentineans, we love to eat!”

Indeed. So do Mauians and visitors alike! I say, “vamos” to any of the island’s spirited Latin American restaurant establishments, and quicker than Taj Majal can belt out a famous lyric, your taste buds will be dancing the salsa.

Mama's Fish House (both)

Dining Guide

B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m.

R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =Gold & Silver 2022 ‘Aipono Restaurant Award winners =Live music! Check venue website for information. Phone numbers are area code 808.

WEST SIDE

A‘A ROOTS Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L, $

ALALOA LOUNGE  The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the dining menu, such as huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International. D, $-$$

AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $

AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with 2020 ‘Aipono Award-winning poke. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $-$$

BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., 665-7096 Start with an heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella. Then a Hawaiian cioppino full of treasures from the sea in a tomato-fennel broth, or lobster agnolotti. End with warm Valrhona chocolate cake. Great cocktails, too!

Italian/Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$-$$$$

BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lāhainā, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $

CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast, and prime select steaks with horseradish crème fraÎche for dinner. Lunch at the in Hāna Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$-$$$$

CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-4855 Wake up to oceanfront views with a cuppa joe and a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings or a signature cheeseburger. For dinner: the Aloha Fish and Fries. International. B, L, D, $-$$

CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lāhainā, 661-7711 Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily specials. American. B, L, $

CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$

THE COFFEE STORE Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for coffee and a muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch – or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service, fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $

COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken, fresh fish, tacos and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $

DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$

DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$

FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lāhainā, 6675353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lāhainā, 669-6425 (Yes, that Fleetwood!) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$-$$$$

FOND Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., #115, Nāpili, 856-0225 Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night friedchicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $-$$

FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won ‘Aipono Gold in 2022 for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D, $-$$

THE GAZEBO Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $

HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9390 Pizza, salads and awesome seafood entrees make this a go-to spot in Lāhainā. International. L, D, $$

HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-0124 Chef Tom Muromoto’s menu features local flavors in an oceanfront setting. For breakfast, try poi pancakes with coconut syrup; for lunch, a Moloka‘i venison burger; and for dinner, lū‘au plates, seafood and pan-fried ribeye steak. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$$$

HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar, and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$

INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Inu means “drink” in Hawaiian, and this poolside bar serves up island-inspired cocktails, local beer and wine. Sip and snack on pūpū, burgers, wraps and salads Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $-$$

ISLAND CREAM COMPANY Lāhainā Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 298-0916 Classic flavors meet island fruit! Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints! Treats. $

JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are among the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono Silver for Best Asian Cuisine in 2022. Japanese. D, N, $$$

JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 2145590 Start your day with macadamia nut pancakes or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $-$$

KIHEI CAFFE Lāhainā Gateway Plaza, 305 Kiawe St., Lāhainā, 868-2230 See South Shore listing.

LĀHAINĀ GRILL 127 Lāhaināluna, Rd., Lāhainā, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad, sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with jasmine rice, or their famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails, too! American/Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$

LĀHAINĀ PIZZA COMPANY 730 Front St., Ste. 2, 661-0700 Known for its killer deep-dish pies, this venue tied for the 2022 Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Pizza. You can also enjoy sandwiches, salads, pasta and a great selection of libations. Italian/American. Pizza. L, D, $-$$

LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with guava chicken wings, and ‘ahi poke with taro chips. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesancrusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $-$$$$

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread with pineapple coleslaw and an ice-cold beer. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lāhainā, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. See also South Shore listing. Kid-friendly. Treats. $

LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D, $$

MACADANGDANG 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali 868-0929 Award-winning chef Joey Macadangdang serves a menu like no other! Try the braised duck kare-kare with eggplant in peanut sauce, the mahimahi in lemongrass-oyster cream or the ribeye steak with pepper demi-glace. Great cocktails, too! Filipino Fusion/Sushi. H, D, $-$$$

MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9394 Māla delivers delicious food and killer cocktails. Start with an oyster shooter and some ‘ahi bruschetta. Then dig into seared scallops with truffle pesto, huli huli chicken with warm potato salad, or the daily catch with kabocha puree. Mediterranean. BR, H, D, N, $-$$$

Dining Guide

MAUIGROWN COFFEE CO. STORE 277 Lāhaināluna Rd., Lāhainā, 661-2728 Running low on energy? Head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $

MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$-$$$$

MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing.

MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 214-5106

This innovative vegan/vegetarian venue won the 2022 Gold ‘Aipono for Best Healthy Fare, as well as the coveted Excellence in Sustainability-Restaurant Award. Vegetarian/Vegan. B, L, D, $

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.

OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-0700 This oceanfront venue has won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Lū‘au 19 times – come see why! Begin with kalo (taro) hummus, then choose a

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lāhainā, 662-3456 See North Shore listing.

PAPA‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lāhainā, 661-3636 Bravo’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong makes simple food from scratch using fresh, locally grown ingredients. Visit the new grab-and-go counter for early morning coffee and eats! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$

PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D, $-$$

PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lāhainā, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D, $

ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Line up for the half-pound Maui Cattle Co. burger on a brioche bun for lunch. For dinner, try the blackened ‘ahi or the honey-mustard-glazed beef short ribs. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$

ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lāhainā Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR

600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$

THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$

SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$-$$$$

STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful.

2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426

House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$

335 Keawe St., The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner

THAI CHEF Old Lāhainā Center, 878 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-2814 This well-loved venue keeps diners coming back. Commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salad with tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $

TOMMY BAHAMA MARLIN BAR 900 Front St., Lāhainā, 500-6204. Blackened mahimahi tacos, furikake and sriracha-aioli tater tots, and world-famous coconut shrimp. Great drinks, too! Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $-$$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lāhainā, 877-3700 and Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shaveice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $

UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 2691802. and Food Truck, Maui Street Market, 150 Hāna Hwy., 500-8783. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic softshell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $-$$

‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lāhainā’s rowdy whaling past. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$

WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY 900 Front St., Lāhainā, 856-0036 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. Try the smoked Kona-coffee-rubbed beef brisket and cheddar potato cake. American. BR, L, D, $ -$$

SOUTH SHORE

AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 and 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Offering 100 percent Mauigrown coffee roasted locally for the highest-quality flavor. Espresso, French press and nitro brews available. Coffee Shop. $

AMIGO’S 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, See also West Maui listing.

BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 A casual, open-air eatery serving organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips and grilled mahimahi made with fresh, local ingredients. Kidfriendly. American. L, D, $$$

BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a threecocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $

CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. See also Central listing. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$

COCONUT’S FISH CAFE  Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 and 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos, a grilled fish burger or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$

DA KITCHEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. E, Kīhei, 446-3486 Local food and good vibes meet! Spam musubi, chicken katsu, kalbi ribs, locomoco and da Hawaiian plate. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$

DIAMONDS ICE BAR & GRILL 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-9299 Casual watering hole with live music, billiards, TVs and darts. Daily food and drink specials, outdoor seating and late-night offerings. American. B. L. D. $$

DUO STEAK AND SEAFOOD Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $-$$$

EKOLU KITCHEN1297 1279 S. Kīhei Rd. Ste. 201, Kīhei 793-3333 Craft cocktails and inventive international menu with fresh seafood, locally sourced smoked meats and wood roasted flatbreads. International. D, $$

ESKIMO CANDY SEAFOOD MARKET & DELI 2665

Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 891-8898 Locals come for the rice bowl topped with a variety of poke mixes, like shoyu, spicy wasabi and furikake. Fresh opah and chips with cabbage coleslaw, too. Seafood/Deli. L, D, $-$$

FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Gagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, and spaghetti with pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. HR, D, $-$$

FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 Pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs smoked 15 hours over kiawe. Enjoy sides: cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: sweet/tart and blue cheese/apples. American. D, $-$$

FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons

Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 For lunch, enjoy a veggie quesadilla or grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$

FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free options. International. L, D, $

FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local musicians. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$

GANNON’S 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 875-8080 Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$

HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 There’s a reason why this venue won ‘Aipono Gold for Best Burger in 2022: the smash burger and noodles. Eat it with chopsticks in one hand and burger in the other – local style! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$

HOME MAID CAFE 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-6035 Family-owned hole-in-the-wall known for its madeto-order malasadas. Classic breakfast plates, saimin and sandwiches. American, Local. B. L. $

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the park with Hawaiian sweetbread French toast for breakfast, crispy calamari and a Magnum P.I. cocktail at happy hour, and Roy’s classic blackened island ‘ahi for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. B, H, D, $-$$$

ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $

KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea

Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$

KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $-$$

KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $-$$

KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” – three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. 2022 ‘Aipono Restaurant of the Year. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$

LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea

Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with local seasonal ingredients, such as lychee, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and Hawaiian navel oranges, pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H, $

LINEAGE

The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea

Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If Cantonese lobster noodles and leeks, ginger and XO butter, crispy Korean chicken with pickles made in house, and Wagyu Kalbi short ribs with garlic rice get your juices flowing, head to Wailea. Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 Chill out with a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia nut ice cream. Treats. $

LUANA LOUNGE  Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 This lobby lounge re-imagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try the kālua pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato, paired with an ice-cold passion fruit ale. Japanese. D, N, $-$$

MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into authentic chicken scaloppine. Italian/ Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$

MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$-$$$

MAUI BREWING CO.  605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 This off-the-grid brewery offers 36 craft and specialty beers, as well as burgers, pizzas, fish tacos and salads. Brewery/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$

MAUI BRICK OVEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 8757896 Gluten-free restaurant serving fish and chips, pasta and crispy thin crust pizza. Familyfriendly space with kids menu. GF Italian, American. D. $$

MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs! Kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets, and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $-$$

MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Try Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$-$$$

MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center

Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! See also West Side listing. Japanese. L, H, D, $$

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8912322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman chain includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana cream pie. See also West Side listing. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$

MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE  100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irish-owned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish pub. L, H, D, $-$$$

NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL  Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ‘ahi club with smoked bacon, fresh fish ‘n’ chips and hearty burgers. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$

NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath the stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$

Dining Guide

NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $-$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 See North Shore listing.

THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too! American. L, H, D, N, $-$$

PEGGY SUE’S 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 214-6786 Bright 1950s style diner with jukebox serving burgers, milkshakes and creative hot dogs. American. L. D. $$

PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Finish with baklava icecream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $-$$$

THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens, fish plucked from the sea, and a gorgeous outdoor setting are among the reasons this venue won ‘Aipono Gold in 2022 for Most Romantic Restaurant. European-inspired. H, D, N, R, $$-$$$$

ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $-$$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American. H, D, N, R, $$$$

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kukui Mall, 1819 Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-0780 See West Side listing.

SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and fresh veggies. Save room for Maui Mud Pie! American. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$-$$$

SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $

SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, then enjoy the caramelized pork chop with exotic notes of anise, cinnamon and pineapple. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N, $$-$$$

SUSHI PARADISE 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793751 Small, sought-after sushi joint in Azeka Center. High-quality fresh sushi with generous portions. Reservations recommended. Japanese. D, $$

TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $-$$$

THREE’S BAR & GRILL  1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.

VIETNAMESE CUISINE Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-2088 Start with shrimp spring rolls served with tamarindpeanut sauce. Then the grilled pork with pickled root veggies; a traditional clay-pot dish; or pho, steak and noodle soup. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$

CENTRAL

808 ON MAIN 2051 Main St., Wailuku 242-1111 Soup, sandwiches and salads in a stylish spot on Main Street. A Wailuku lunchtime favorite. American. L, $$

A SAIGON CAFÉ 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$

BA-LE 1824 Oihana St., Wailuku 249-8833 Vietnamese counter-service eatery with bahn mi, pho, plate lunches and fresh baked bread and croissants. Additional locations in Kahului, Kīhei and Lāhainā. Vietnamese. L, D, $$

e Birdcage Bar

e Restaurant at Hotel Wailea

e Treehouse at Hotel Wailea

BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut french fries and burrata caprese. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului! Mediterranean. L, H, D, R, $-$$

CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 5000553 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, R, $-$$$

ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, mezcal, wine and beer. Local farm-to-tableinspired small lates. Rosé wine and daiquiries during happy hour. Open 2-10 p.m. Lounge/snacks. H, N, $

FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing

FUEGO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 1333 Maui

Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 633-4436 Cozy indoor and outdoor seating on the Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course. Authentic Argentinian-style barbeque, pasta and sandwiches. Extensive list of cocktails and international wines. Latin-inspired. B, L, D $$-$$$

GIONOTTO’S PIZZA 2050 Main St., Wailuku 2448282 Bodega-style eatery with pizzas and homestyle Italian served with aloha. Italian. L, D, $

HAVENS Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., 868-0555 Enjoy the same smash burgers and sushi at this gourmet food truck. Plenty kau kau! See also South Shore listing. Food Truck. L, D, $

KING’S CHINESE BBQ 197 N. Market St., Wailuku 242-8848 No frills, counter-service joint serving Chinese BBQ and local favorites like saimin and

spam musubi. Additional locations in Kīhei and Ha‘ikū. Chinese, Local Mixed-Plate. B, L, D, $$

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $

MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery .com Kyle Kawakami, ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, also won for Silver for Best Food Truck in 2022. Imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $

MIKO’S CUISINE 1764 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 8682914 Small off-the-beaten-path eatery with Chinese, Korean and Japanese fares. Asian. L, D, $$

MIYAKO SUSHI 1883 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2440085 Sequestered Okazuya style sushi joint also specializing in antiques and local snacks. Carryout only. Japanese. B, L, $

MOMONA BAKERY AND COFFEE SHOP 7 E Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 214-3589 Chic and spacious coffee shop serving fresh pastries, including cakes and Argentinian-style croissants. Come early for the best selection. Latin-inspired bakery. B, L, $

ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia, onlyonobbq .com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches and smoked brisket. Location varies. Download menu and schedule. Food Truck. Chinese/American. L, D, $

SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $

SIXTY-TWO MARCKET 62 N Market St., 7932277 Part market, part brunch joint with artfully plated eggs benedicts, frittatas and omeletes. Lunch time offerings include soup, sandwiches and salads. Silver medal for Best Business Lunch at 2022 ‘Aipono Awards. American. B, L, $$

THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck. L, D, $

TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Scratch great Mexican off your foodie bucket list! Get the three-taco plate lunch (braised beef, pork and shrimp) with corn, rice and salsa. Mexican. L, $

TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 8680753 Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with mochiko chicken or garlic shrimp. Try the saimin, kale salad, or double-fried-chicken sandwich on a brioche bun. Pacific Rim. L, $

TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $

TASTY CRUST 1770 Mill St., Wailuku, 244-0845 A Maui mainstay since 1942 serving breakfast classics and island-style lunch and dinner. Cash or debit only. American, Local Mixed-Plate. B, L, D, $

THE EMPANADA LADY  2119 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 868-4544 Garden-like eatery in the heart of Wailuku serving authentic Puerto Rican fares. Puerto Rican. L, D, $$

Blending traditional flavors with innovative elegance to create an unforgettable culinary experience.

TIFFANY’S 1424 Lower Main St., Wailuku 2490052 Revitalized local eatery helmed by celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon. Filipino, Japanese and localstyle fares. Pacific Rim Open for lunch on weekends. Asian, Local. L, D, $$

TOKYO TEI 1063 Lower Main St., Wailuku 2428848 Longstanding Wailuku staple with authentic Japanese fares in a convivial, family-friendly atmosphere. Japanese. L, D, $$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.

UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802 and Food Truck, Maui Street Market, 150 Hāna Hwy., 500-8783. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $-$$

WAILUKU COFFEE CO. 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads and sandwiches in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY

CASANOVA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao 572-0220 Upscale Italian with fresh pastas, wood-fired pizzas and polished service. Italian. D, R, $$

GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $-$$

KULA LODGE 12500 Haleakalā Hwy., Kula, 8781535 Come for the beautiful views and manicured garden, stay for a fresh, farm-to-table brunch and wood-fired pizzas. Now under 5 Palms management. American, Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$

KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of fare, including vegetarian, plate lunch, açai bowls, barbecue and more. Food Truck. $-$$

LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Great coffee. Cash only. French/Bakery. B, L, (Weds-Sun), $

LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on site is the foundation for many dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$

MARLOW 30 Kupaoa St., A104, Pukalani, 8683366 Chef Jeff and Kaili Scheer know good food, and this family-owned restaurant serves wood-fired sourdough pizza, killer meatballs and rustic salads. Great wine menu, too! Italian. D, $-$$

MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-6058

Enjoy wine tastings and light fare on the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the winetasting room. Winery. L, $-$$

POLLI’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao 575-7808 A Makawao cornerstone, this local watering hole is famous for its margaritas, Tex-Mex style fares and buzzy vibe. Mexican. L, D, $$

NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$-$$$

O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’o for reservations, 667-4341 Learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and freshroasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken/fish entrees, veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$

SARTORI 3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 727-9638 Food truck serving healthy sushi hand rolls, ramen and inventive sushi specials. Cozy outdoor seating area in the heart of Makawao. Japanese. L, D, $$

ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki, and beef or grass-fed venison burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice, or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $

NORTH SHORE

CAFÉ DES AMIS 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323 Savory crêpes served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita (Indian yogurt sauce). Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. L, D, $

FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$

HANA HOU SURF CLUB 65 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 707-9752 Try a loco moco or açai bowl for breakfast, a poke bowl or burger for lunch. International. B, L (Fri & Sat), $-$$$

LIMA COCINA + CANTINA  71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-0520 Airy restaurant serving artful Peruvian cuisine like saltados and ceviche. Inventive pisco-heavy cocktail list and late-night offerings on Fridays/ Saturdays. Latin-inspired. L, D, N, $$-$$$

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its beautiful beachside setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes old-time island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$-$$$$

NYLOS 135 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 This six-course prix-fixe menu is created with the finest ingredients, like Osetra caviar, wild truffles and line-caught local fish. International. D (5 & 8 p.m. seatings), R, $$$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy. Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $-$$

VANA PĀ‘IA 93 Hāna Hwy. #3, Pā‘ia, 579-6002

Start with a liliko‘i mezcalita, then work your way down the menu and try the hamachi carpaccio, nigiri sushi, dragon roll, or black garlic-miso eggplant. Asian Fusion. H, D, $-$$

HĀNA

BAREFOOT CAFE 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732

Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to-go. Pacific Rim. B, L, $

THE RESTAURANT Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juice. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$

Hanana Maui's Calendar of Events

by SERENE GUNNISON

Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem

May 13-14 • Ho‘okipa Beach Park, Pā'ia

Surfing competitions abound in the Hawaiian Islands, but few compare to Menehune Mayhem. This annual keiki (youth) surf contest was founded by professional big wave surfer Ian Walsh in 2003 as a way to give back to Maui’s surfing community. Now in its 19th year, Menehune Mayhem has grown into something that resembles a carnival – with a side of competition.

“The initial concept of this event was to create something fun for the kids, something they could look forward to all year,” Walsh said. “Each year we’ve just been adding more layers.” Over time, the event has evolved to include keiki-friendly activities like bouncy castles, dunk tanks, scavenger hunts, lei making and arts and crafts booths. The two-day event is loaded with live entertainment and even a helicopter search-and-rescue demonstration by the U.S. Coast Guard – which captivates even adult audiences.

Amidst the fun, Walsh uses the event to instill virtuous values in Maui’s youth. Through hands-on activities like hula hooping contests and beach clean-ups, Walsh aims to encourage active lifestyles and environmental stewardship. “These kids are the future influencers and stewards of the planet,” Walsh said. “We want to engage with them and physically show them the importance of preserving our environment, rather than just telling them in a classroom setting.”

In contrast with costly league surfing events, Menehune Mayhem is the only free keiki surfing competition on Maui. “A free surf event is so rare these days,” said Tasha Jahrmarkt, who has served as competition director for the last three years. “It allows these kids to remember why they surf in the first place – for fun.”

Whether you’re interested in watching Maui’s best young surfers take to the waves or have keiki in tow, the public is welcome to join in on the mayhem. Competition is open to kids under 15. Advanced registration is required. For more information, visit MenehuneMayhem.org.

Jon Spenser

Jon Spenser

Serene Gunnison

Inventive lei creations are everywhere at the Maui Historical Society's Lei Day Heritage Festival at the Bailey House Museum. The event also features live music and cultural demonstrations.

Lei Day Heritage Festival

May 1 • Bailey House Museum, Wailuku

In Hawai‘i, leis are a palpable token of aloha. Day in and day out, visitors are welcomed at Kahului Airport with vibrant orchid leis. Lovers eagerly exchange elegant leis during nuptials. And at every Hawai‘i high school commencement, leis are piled so high on graduates that, oftentimes, they leave barely able to see above the flowery stack.

For all that leis help us celebrate – whether it be arriving in the islands for the first time or a graduation – it’s only fair that we celebrate them, too.

May Day in Hawai‘i is Lei Day, an unofficial state holiday that honors all things lei. The first Lei Day was held in downtown Honolulu in 1928 after poet laureate Don Blanding suggested Hawai‘i should set aside a day to celebrate the custom of giving and receiving lei. The following year, Gov. Wallace R. Farrington proclaimed May 1 as Lei Day, to be observed annually by “all true friends of Hawai‘i.” The day is marked by making and wearing lei, lei contests, parades and hula performances across the state.

On Maui, visitors can marvel at inventive lei creations and enjoy a full day of Hawaiian celebration at the Bailey House Museum. Maui Historical Society’s annual Lei Day Heritage Festival features a coveted lei contest, rewarding ingenuity and artistry across three categories: fresh floral, dried and recycled material lei. The festivities continue with live music and a multitude of cultural demonstrations like poi pounding, kapa making and feather art.

The Lei Day Heritage Festival is free to attend. The festivities run from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. at the Bailey House Museum, 2375 Main St., Wailuku. (808) 244-3326.

April-May

America

April 14 • Maui Arts and Cultural Center

Founded during the hallucinatory songwriting era of the 1970s, America was catapulted to stardom following the release of their debut single, “A Horse with No Name.” Their followup hits “I Need You” and “Ventura Highway” earned the group a Grammy Award for Best New Artist in 1972. Fifty years later, frontmen Gerry Beckley and Dewey Bunnell still share their powerful lyrical imagery and melodic jazz-pop sounds with audiences nationwide.

7:30 p.m. | mauiarts.org | (808) 242-7469

National Park Week: Entrance Fees Waived

April 22 • Haleakalā National Park

Looking for an excuse to visit Haleakalā’s multihued sands or the deep greens on the Pīpīwai Trail? Thrifty nature lovers can take advantage of the opening day of National Park Week. National Park entrance fees will be waived on April 22, giving visitors and residents alike an excuse to soak up Haleakalā National Park’s natural grandeur. nps.gov (808) 572-4400

Lāhainā Banyan Tree Birthday Party

April 22 • Banyan Tree Park, Lāhainā

The Lāhainā Banyan Tree is turning 150! The iconic tree was planted on April 24, 1873, and has since grown to be the largest banyan tree in the United States. Stop by Banyan Tree Park and the Old Lāhainā Courthouse to celebrate with keiki activities, historical exhibits and a delicious slice of birthday cake (at 1 p.m.). 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Maui Marathon

April 23 • Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel

As the sun comes up over Maui on April 23, hundreds of runners will hit the pavement for the athletic event of the year: the Maui Marathon. The race traces Maui’s western coast, from Pu‘unēnē to Kā‘anapali. Now in its 53rd year, this Boston qualifier event is the oldest marathon west of the Mississippi River and includes an additional half-marathon, marathon relay, 10k and 5k. Register before April 16. mauimarathon.com | (808) 446-9111

Chris Amundson

Adobe ©New Africa

Contributed, Bailey House Museum

Andy Bumatai: In Denial Tour

April 28 • Maui Arts and Cultural Center

For those who grew up in Hawai‘i, no performers are more synonymous with island-style comedy than Andy Bumatai, Frank DeLima and Augie T. The comedic trio convenes for an evening of side-splitting, local kine laughs at the Maui Arts and Cultural Center as part of Bumatai’s “In Denial” Tour. 7 p.m. | mauiarts.org

(808) 242-7269

The

Doobie Brothers

50th Anniversary Tour

May 1 • Maui Arts and Cultural Center

Over 50 years have passed since roots rockers The Doobie Brothers played their first show, but the four-man group still performs with the same zeal they had in the 1970s. As part of their 50th Anniversary Tour, The Doobie Brothers are returning to the MACC stage. This time the group is accompanied by special guest Pat Simmons Jr., who is carrying his father’s musical torch into the next generation. 6:30 p.m. | mauiarts.org

(808) 242-7269

48th Annual Seabury Hall Craft Fair

May 13 • Seabury Hall, Makawao

Typically, the Seabury Hall grounds are a quiet academic sanctuary for about 400 students. But each year, on the Saturday before Mother’s Day, the Upcountry campus springs to life for the Seabury Hall Craft Fair. This coveted annual event hosts over 100 vendors selling anything from plants to pottery, dozens of food booths, live music and kid-friendly activities like pony rides and bouncy castles. All funds raised at the craft fair go to Seabury’s tuition assistance program. $10 admission. 9 a.m.-3 p.m.

(808) 572-7235

Beneath the Surface: Marine Life of Hawai‘i

May 26-July 21 • Hui No‘eau, Makawao

For countless artists around Hawai‘i, the ocean is a perpetual muse. Artists of all mediums are invited to submit works to Hui No‘eau’s “Beneath the Surface: Marine Life of Hawai‘i” exhibit, which opens May 26. The exhibition features an ocean-themed sculpture by artist-in-residence Gar Waterman, artwork created by Maui’s youth and marine-inspired works by local artists. huinoeau.com | (808) 572-6560

Celebration of the Arts

April 7-8 • The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua

The awakening chant rings out over the sands of Honokahua Beach (D.T. Fleming) at sunrise as dozens of visitors, kama‘āina and cultural practitioners gather to welcome the sun and cleanse their energy. The e ala e tradition signals the commencement of the Celebration of the Arts, an annual festival that explores all facets of Hawaiian culture. Held over two days at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, the event connects guests with the state’s most renowned Hawaiian artisans, educators, cultural practitioners and entertainers.

Just like the opening ceremony, the event is rooted in all things Hawaiian. Cultural practitioners adhere to traditional protocol by chanting their genealogy and stating their intentions before entering the hotel. Hawaiian artisans are showcased at every turn, from stone carvers and lauhala weavers to ‘ohe hano ihu (bamboo nose flute) makers. Meanwhile, the event schedule is packed with cultural demonstrations, workshops, panelist Q&As, films, music and hula that runs late into the night.

Yet it’s not the traditional art displays or adherence to protocol that sets the festival

Renowned Hawaiian artisans, educators, cultural practitioners and entertainers immerse visitors in all facets of Hawaiian cultural heritage at the Celebration of the Arts.

Mickey Pauole/Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua

Mickey Pauole/The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua

apart from other cultural events: It’s the connection and understanding that it invites. Visitors are encouraged to sit, talk story and engage with artisans, eager to share not only their craft but their heritage.

“I just love to see the emotions and the camaraderie that’s formed between our visitors and the practitioners,” said Clifford Nae'ole, the resort's Hawaiian Cultural Advisor who has served as event chair for Celebration of the Arts for over 30 years. “It’s not your status quo hotel experience.”

The Celebration of Arts is free, except for the Celebration of Island Tastes.

Call The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua concierge for Celebration of Island Tastes tickets at (808) 669-6200. See the full schedule at KapaluaCelebrationOfTheArts.com

Recurring Events

Upcountry Farmers Market

Saturday Mornings

Kulamalu Town Center, Pukalani

What do empanadas, sauerkraut and knife sharpening services have in common?

They’re all found at the Upcountry Farmers Market, alongside an abundance of local veggies, meats, fruits, fares and handmade goods. This weekly hub is always buzzing with early-bird shoppers, so set your morning alarm – the good stuff goes fast. 55 Kiopaa St. | 7-11 a.m. upcountryfarmersmarket.com

John Cruz

Wednesdays • ProArts Playhouse, Kīhei

Jam out Maui-style to the acoustic sounds of John Cruz. This Maui music legend became a household name in the islands following the release of his 1996 hit, "Island Style." The 2022 Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winning artist performs weekly at the Pro Arts Playhouse, Kīhei’s premier listening room, where you can hear and feel every note. 7 p.m. | proartsmaui.org

Slack Key Show

Wednesdays • Nāpili Kai Beach Resort

Each Wednesday, Hawaiian music masters of different disciplines assemble under one roof for the George Kahumoku Jr. Slack Key Show: Masters of Hawaiian Music. Hosted by Grammy Award winner George Kahumoku Jr., the show features different Hawaiian artists each week, from falsetto legends to mesmerizing ‘ukulele players. 6:30 p.m. | slackkeyshow.com

Wailea Village Farmers Market

Tuesdays • Wailea Village

Whether you’re on the hunt for fresh, local produce or a one-of-a-kind Mauimade souvenir, you can find a bounty of local goods at the Wailea Village Farmers Market. Come for an exclusive selection of eats, produce and products; stay for the spirit of community and aloha. 8-11 a.m. waileavillagefarmersmarket.com.

We have the latest Board Games, the largest digital D&D table - possibly anywhere! - and Collector Card Games. Come play one of our 100+ games on our Demo Library.

Mickey Pauole/Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua

Responsible Reflection

Photograph by DOUGLAS HOFFMAN

A COMBINATION of forethought and serendipity helped Kīhei-based photographer Douglas Hoffman create this transfixing photograph in the shallow waters near Mākena.

He entered the water armed with the intention of creating an evocative environmental portrait of a honu (green sea turtle) and its surroundings. The conditions were right – calm and clear. All he needed was a subject.

As Douglas waited patiently, this honu came swimming by and became the model for his striking piece of art. More than a pretty picture, Douglas hoped to make something “meaningful” that day.

Meaning is a motif that has deeply influenced Douglas’ 30-year photography career. He aims to create images that “evoke emotion” and “inspire people to think about our environment, our ocean and the animals that are in it.”

As an underwater photographer who works closely with marine animals, Douglas has developed a strong passion for ethics in photography , citing the need to respect rules, regulations and codes of conduct when interacting with marine life like honu and coral.

“Photographers have a social responsibility,” he said “I like to portray things that the public can do, but do responsibly.”

A Hui Hou is the editors’ pick of readersubmitted images. For the chance to be published in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, send your photos to photos@mauimagazine.net.

NIKON D850, 1/250 SEC, F/8 ISO 400, 16MM LENS, FLASH

Wendy Tuivaioge

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI AT WAILEA DIRECTOR OF HAWAIIAN PROGRAMS

“ Everything within the Hawaiian culture is holomua, moving forward. We set and reach our goals, and we ensure that we never regress.

In the generations before me, especially during my father’s time, the Hawaiian culture wasn’t appreciated. The language was so restricted that you could only speak it behind closed doors. But in hula, the Hawaiian language continues.

Hula is life, because through hula you examine your mele, your music, and that’s how you gain all your ‘ike, your knowledge, of what happened in the past.

When you listen to Hawaiian music, it sounds so beautiful, so wonderful, and so smooth. The hula dancer is the interpreter. The hula dancer, through her facial expressions, the motions of her hands and body, her kino, tells the story. It’s so important, I sometimes get emotional.

When people come here to Maui they think of the beautiful beaches, resorts, and accommodations. But what we have unlike anywhere else, is our Hawaiian culture and aloha spirit. It is so important that we share the Hawaiian culture authentically and correctly.

In the evenings, we have a beautiful hula dancer who comes with flowers in her hair and a gorgeous muumuu (Hawaiian dress), to dance hula to the musician in the lobby. But we wanted to also share more of the cultural practice of hula.

You cannot walk up to a hālau (hula school) knock on the door and say, ‘Can I come in to watch?’ Because the answer would be ‘a‘ole, no – it’s a closed practice. I talked to my kumu (teacher), Kumu Hula Kamaka Kukona. I said, ‘You know, visitors don’t get to see how we train,’ and from that, Behind the Scenes of Hula was born.

We now train at Four Seasons Resort Maui every Thursday. People love to come out. When you see

that many people dancing in such precision, it’s just amazing. We begin our practice with 20 minutes of nonstop warm-ups, depending on what Kumu Kamaka says. They’re calling out the steps and you see how the dancer’s position changes in sync to the beat of the ipu heke (instrument made from two gourds).

At times, I excuse myself from the ho’opa’a (chanter) line, and speak to the people who are watching and explain to them what they’re witnessing. They tell me, ‘Wow, we’ve never seen this before.’ And I say, ‘You never will – you’ll never see this, unless you come here to Four Seasons.’

We always say that being in hālau is not a democracy. Whatever the kumu says goes. The kumu are the sources of the knowledge. And for them to be giving us all their knowledge, that’s special. So you give them that respect, and pay attention in class. You learn this at a young age, and it is not something I have forgotten in my many years of hula.

For me, when I say ‘hula is life,’ it’s not just about hearing the song, and just saying, ‘This is the motion for the ocean.’ No, you know your song, your mele. Kumu says, ‘Research. What is this mele about?’

And there’s this word called kauna, which refers to the hidden meaning of what a word or thought. We might be talking about, ‘The mountain is so beautiful,’ but the composer of the mele is comparing the beauty of the mountain to his mother. When you learn this, you learn what the composer was thinking – over 100 years ago. By studying and researching, we know the history of the islands, and understand what came before us.

For me, it’s all about bringing that knowledge and sharing it with our guests. I’m grateful that through these 61 years, I have been fortunate to have learned. I have a wonderful kumu – and have had many wonderful kumu. I have wonderful colleagues, and wonderful hula sisters and brothers, who all know me as Aunty Mopsie, by the way. The learning is continuous: Hawaiian culture, through hula, through everything. It’s ongoing. There’s always something more to learn.”

“For me, it’s all about bringing that knowledge and sharing it with our guests."

MAU I OCEA N CENTE R

Sm al l e veryday c hoices have h ug e im pa cts on m ar in e life. G o g re en fo r o ur oce an fr ien ds !

s ho p sus t ai nable & E CO -FRIEND LY PR O DUCT S

DISCOVER A MOMENT

DISCOVER A MOMENT

DISCOVER A MOMENT

The place, the people, the taste, a moment | theshopsatwailea.com

The place, the people, the taste, a moment | theshopsatwailea.com

The place, the people, the taste, a moment | theshopsatwailea.com

LOUIS VUITTON ∙ LULULEMON ∙ TIFFANY & CO. ∙ PRADA ∙ GUCCI ∙ TRAVISMATHEW ∙ THE PINT & CORK ∙ OLUKAI

LOUIS VUITTON LULULEMON TIFFANY & CO. PRADA GUCCI TRAVISMATHEW THE PINT & CORK OLUKAI

TOMMY BAHAMA LINEAGE RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE BOTTEGA VENETA TOURNEAU LAHAINA GALLERIES

LOUIS VUITTON LULULEMON TIFFANY & CO. PRADA GUCCI TRAVISMATHEW THE PINT & CORK OLUKAI

TOMMY BAHAMA LINEAGE RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE BOTTEGA VENETA TOURNEAU LAHAINA GALLERIES

SUNGLASS HUT FAHERTY MARTIN & MACARTHUR GALLERY NA HOKU JOHNNY WAS & MORE

TOMMY BAHAMA LINEAGE RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE BOTTEGA VENETA TOURNEAU LAHAINA GALLERIES

SUNGLASS HUT FAHERTY MARTIN & MACARTHUR GALLERY NA HOKU JOHNNY WAS & MORE

SUNGLASS HUT FAHERTY MARTIN & MACARTHUR GALLERY NA HOKU JOHNNY WAS & MORE