The Holiday Issue
Best of Maui 25 REASONS TO LOVE MAUI The Shaka List
60 GREAT GIFTS Made in Maui
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4 CHEFS SHARE Their Favorite Holiday Dishes
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Legendary waterman Robby Naish takes to the air at Mā‘alaea. For more on the soaring popularity of wing foiling, see our annual Shaka List, page 40. Photo by Fish Bowl Diaries
Features 59 Special Section
MADE IN MAUI COUNTY Holiday Gift Guide
24 Adventure
LIQUID ASSETS Immersed in her research, our writer discovers how the other half lives. Story by Teya Penniman
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32 Island Business
EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN Our resident expert opens the door on five Maui buildings with storied pasts. Story by Kathy Collins
36 Hawaiian Soul
LONO’S SEASON Hawaiians call it Makahiki—the months when work and warfare cease in celebration of a god’s return. Story by Teya Penniman
40 Maui Style
SHAKA LIST 2020 Our annual review: twenty-five reasons to love Maui. By Shannon Wianecki
50 At Home
TRANSLATED INTO HAWAIIAN Renovations give an Upcountry dwelling an island sense of place. Story by Heidi Pool
Andrew Shoemaker’s cover photo is one example of what’s best about Maui. Find more in our Shaka List. See more of Shoemaker’s fine-art photography at AndrewShoemaker.com.
Departments
14 Contributors
It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
16 Publisher’s Note
by Diane Haynes Woodburn
18 Talk Story
Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ by Sunny Savage & Shannon Wianecki
22 Tag, We’re It!
Our fans get social @MauiMag.
96 Who’s Helping
In unsettling times, it’s hard to know what the future will bring. What you can count on: Maui people will always step up.
98 Pau Hana
Da Real Kine Christmas Our local Tita schools us in the ways of Maui Christmases past. Story by Kathy Collins
« DINING »
Stories by Becky Speere
78 Dining Feature
HOLIDAY TEST KITCHEN Four Maui chefs share their favorite recipes. Do try these at home.
86 Mixology
HOT BUTTERED YUM Our dining editor offers an island take on a classic.
88 Dining Guide
A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island
Montage Kapalua Bay’s chef Eric Faivre treats us to an Old World feast in a pot. Find the recipe for this and other holiday dishes on page 78. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi
MauiMag & MauiMag_Eats /MauiMagazine MauiMagazine MauiMag
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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Kathy Collins, Teya Penniman, Heidi Pool, Sunny Savage, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.
Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Chris Archer, Bob Bangerter, Conn Brattain, Cesere Brothers, Christopher Douglass, Michael Fish, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Daniel Kruse, Jason Moore, Matt Morris, Mike Neal, Sunny Savage, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr, Wayne Tanaka, Shannon Wianecki
Senior Editor Rita Goldman
EDITORIAL Dining Editor Becky Speere Contributing Editor Lara McGlashan Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Manager Felix Sunny D’Souza Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere MARKETING & ADVERTISING Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales 808-242-8331
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Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines
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Contributors
Introducing some of the folks who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
Teya Penniman’s interest in chronicling island life grew from her years as a biologist studying seabirds on remote isles. Her article about cultural activities during Makahiki season sparked this thought: “Imagine what life would be like if we all took several months a year to mend our nets, talk story, and let the reefs replenish their bounty!”
Maui girl Kathy Collins is a storyteller, actress, TV and radio broadcaster, and freelance writer. Her alter ego, Tita, has performed throughout Hawai‘i and the mainland, including the Lincoln Center Out of Doors Festival in New York. Kathy herself writes a column for The Maui News, and serves as emcee for numerous community events.
A professional photographer, Ryan Siphers has enjoyed working, playing, and raising his family on Maui since 2007. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, meet interesting people, and visit gorgeous homes—like the Upcountry dwelling he photographed for this issue’s At Home feature. See more of Ryan’s work at RyanSiphersPhotography.com.
Named 2016 Travel Writer of the Year by the Hawaii Ecotourism Association, and Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists, Hawai‘i Chapter, Shannon Wianecki has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific, and all points in between in search of stories. Her favorite spot remains the beach within walking distance of her house on Maui. Follow her adventures: @SWianecki.
As children playing in frigid tide pools off the coast of Maine, the Cesere Brothers made a pact to live on an island and pursue a career that enabled them to explore the ocean they love. After over twenty years on Maui, John moved his family back to Maine, while Dan remained. COVID caused them to shutter their Pā‘ia gallery, but both still work as underwater photographers. CesereBrothers.com
Sunny Savage is an internationally recognized wild-food forager and longtime Maui resident. Her book Wild Food Plants of Hawai‘i, and recently launched free mobile app Savage Kitchen— which focuses on identifying and eating invasive edible wild plants—are tributes to her deep love of the land. You can find her books and app on the website SunnySavage.com.
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For your next adventure
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Publisher’s Note A Wing and a Prayer “What are you doing?” My husband, Jamie, asks. I’m standing on our deck in Kula, watching the fog roll up the hill, casting a veil of cloud over what were blue skies moments ago. I almost tell him how overwhelmed I’ve been feeling. These last months have taken a toll on all of us, and holiday planning seems a bit daunting as we navigate our way between the Scylla and Charybdis of COVID-19 and a challenging economy. “I’m watching our plover,” I say instead. From our deck I have a bird’s-eye view of the property, and have been following the zigzag progress of our annual visitor. I love that guy. Each year I’m afraid I won’t see him again, but here he is, strutting around our lawn, as casual as he can be. In autumn, Pacific golden plovers (kōlea in Hawaiian) leave their Alaskan habitat to winter in these islands, faithfully returning to their own particular patch of grass. Toward late spring, we keep a watchful eye on our kōlea as his brown-and-gold plumage morphs to a rich black coat with a white breast. Once outfitted in his tundra-proof tuxedo, he will leave. But for now, he is our welcome guest. “Take a walk; it will clear your head,” Jamie advises. And I do. As I crest the first hill, sunlight breaks through the mist, and the scent of pine greets me. As our plover attests, winter has come to Kula. I inhale the cool air, and scan the trees for cones. I imagine others around the world enjoying similar simple pleasures. That’s what I wish for, and the thought brings a sense of renewal and connection. And I realize, with just a little pride and a lot of gratitude, why our Best of Maui/Holiday issue is so important a tradition. In these pages, we reflect on and rejoice in the beauty and spirit of our island life. We hope, as your read them, these stories bring that feeling of connection to you. Let me unwrap a few examples: For more than a decade, our “Shaka List” has been sharing the many reasons to love Maui— twenty-five of them here, hundreds more in our archives at MauiMagazine.net. And what would a holiday issue be without food? Our dining editor, Becky Speere, brings four fabulous chefs to the table to share some of their family favorites. Whether you are planning a family feast or Chateaubriand for two, we’ve got you covered, a generous serving of love in every recipe. Speaking of love. . . we are particularly proud to present our Made in Maui Gift Guide. Wherever you may live, we invite you to place a bit of Maui under your tree, with aloha. Ancient Hawaiians understood well the adage “there is a season for everything.” In Teya Penniman’s story about Makahiki, you’ll learn the wisdom of their reverence. When the Pleiades rose in the eastern sky, this season of renewal and abundance began. War and labor ceased. It was a time for thankfulness and peace. Returning home in the lifting mist, I see our kōlea still roaming the lawn, and realize why I look forward to his arrival each fall. His presence is part of the continuum of life that restores my faith in the future. Seasons change, but, as my father would say, life continues. May your holiday table be resplendent with love, friendship, and laughter. A hui hou Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher
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For Those Looking Forward
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talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless
S to
Ar
me
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annon Wianecki
Photo by Cesere B
roth e
ason e s n i TORY
s u o i d & Myster TALK
S
He‘e (octopuses) have brief but magical lives. They mature within a year, mate, and die shortly after. What happens in between is the stuff of sci-fi flicks and Beatles’ songs. The “day octopus,” Octopus cyanea, is the most common cephalopod in Hawaiian waters. By day it slinks along the reef, hunting crabs and snails. At night it slips into a tiny cavity to rest. Divers can spot an octopus den by the empty shells piled at its entrance—otherwise known as an “octopus garden.” Spotting he‘e at large underwater isn’t so easy. These masters of camouflage are intelligent and as slippery as Houdini. They can alter their appearance in seconds and escape just about any enclosure. Sensory organs on their eight arms allow them to perfectly mimic the colors and textures of surrounding corals. If threatened, he‘e can shoot a cloud of ink and disappear in the opposite direction. According to Hawaiian ethnologist Mary Kawena Pukui, octo-
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pus ink, or kūkae uli, was a nickname for those who created distractions to escape punishment. The term applied to prostitutes during Hawai‘i’s whaling days. Octopus sex is otherworldly. A male he‘e pursues a female across the seafloor, their bodies transforming in shape and color as they move. Finally, he unfurls a come-hither tentacle—a specially adapted arm loaded with spermatophores—and slips it into her mantle cavity. Then off he goes. She retreats into her lair, which she decorates with strings of fertilized eggs. For six weeks, she gently fans oxygenated water across her brood without pause. She starves to death, but her progeny repopulate the reef. A Hawaiian proverb indicates that now’s the time to look for these mystifying creatures: Pua ke kō, kū mai ka he‘e. “When the sugarcane flowers, the octopus appears.” Hawaiian sugarcane, or kō, blooms in November, which corresponds with peak abundance of octopuses on the reefs.
rs
The gardens here at Ali`i Kula Lavender Farm keep growing and adapting with the seasons, and so do we. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram and browse our website for the latest on hours of operation, events and online sales. One thing that will never change is the quality and aloha put into our products, including lavender scones, teas, culinary treats, household essential and aromatic items. Select items available online. 1100 Waipoli Road, Kula, Hawaii 96790 Call 808.878.3004 or email aklreservations@aklmaui.com www.aklmaui.com | @aklmaui
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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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Story & photo by Sunny Savage
TALK STORY the sunny side of foraging
Natal Plum
With its intoxicatingly aromatic white flowers, leathery leaves, and delicious fruit, it’s curious that the Natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa) is so often overlooked for the treasure it holds. Natal Plum Holiday Relish has become a tradition at my holiday table, making its way into many meals during this festive season. So few people know that the fruit is edible once it turns a bright, cheery red, and the forager is often awarded a generous harvest, with multiple fruitings throughout the year. The shrub was first planted in Hawai‘i around 1905, but not for its fruit. The plant originates from the KwaZuluNatal province in South Africa, where it goes by several names, like carissa fruit and num-num. It evolved with elephants and other large game, and developed sharp, twice-forked spines to protect those red gems of fruit. Its thorns, along with its drought tolerance, have made the
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plant widely popular as a hedge throughout the Islands. It is important to only eat the fruit once it’s fully ripe, as green fruits and other parts of the plant are toxic. Don’t be scared of the white latex the fruit oozes; that is normal and not harmful. The seeds can also be eaten without harm. Always ask permission before harvesting from private property. Fruits can be dehydrated, made into Natal plum-and-toasted-coconut ice cream, infused in vinegar, used in chutneys, and much more! Natal Plum Holiday Relish 2 c. pineapple, diced 1 tbsp. orange rind, grated or microplaned 1 c. Natal plum, seeded and sliced Mix all ingredients and serve.
Sunny Savage is an internationally recognized wild-food forager and the author of more than a dozen books/e-books on identifying and enjoying edible invasive plants. For more on Sunny, her books and new app, visit SunnySavage. com.
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Tag, We’re It! It’s official: Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Keep ’em coming! Follow @MauiMag on Instagram, then tag us in your photos, and we’ll share some of our favorites.
@thesolbergfam When the hibiscus is as big as your head, you know it’s going to be a beautiful day.
@johnbaranart How can you ever get tired of seeing dolphins in their natural habitat?
@campellovision I’m so obsessed with palm trees—to me they have so much style on any picture! This was shot yesterday at Napili Bay and so far is one of my favorite pictures from Maui!
@danielsullivangallery Palapala Ho‘omau Church in Kīpahulu was built in 1857 out of limestone coral. It is the final resting place of aviator Charles Lindberg and one of my favorite spots on Maui.
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ADVENTURE
A red slate pencil urchin sits amid coral.
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Homo Sapien submergeous.
A racoon butterflyfish holds still for grooming by a tiny blue-andyellow cleaner wrasse.
Streaks of electricblue and orange decorate the fins, tail and eyes of the yellowfin surgeonfish at center. The bluestripe snapper at right takes its name from the narrow stripes running lengthwise across yellow scales. Soldierfish take up the rear, their crimson flanks fittingly martial.
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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Snooze spot: Often seen resting under ledges or in caves, whitetip sharks may use the same locations for up to a decade.
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“Is everything okay?” my scuba instructor asks.
“Yes,” I reply. “Why did I wait so long to explore this other world, when there are awesome dive spots a few fin kicks off Maui’s beaches? I am having an amazing experience!” Or at least that’s what I’m thinking, but suspect that the “O” formed by my thumb and forefinger has only conveyed “Okay,” in scuba language, in mirrored response to her silent, inquiring, “Okay?” We are thirty feet down, some distance off Ulua Beach on Maui’s south shore and, by the air gauge on my tank, about halfway through my first-ever dive. I am following the extremely capable fins of Rachel Domingo, co-owner of Maui Dreams Dive, who knows this underwater landscape and its denizens like a second home. It’s billed as an introductory dive, so those who are curious or short on time can try diving without committing to the full certification process. After a short land-based orientation and demonstrated mastery of a few basic skills under water, I push to release air from my buoyancy-control device and start sinking. Our journey is slow and peaceful as Rachel introduces me to her world. She draws my attention to the shadowed pocket at the base of a coral-crusted rock: a two-foot whitetip reef shark stares back, unfazed by our bubbly inspection. The head and neck of a moray eel protrude from a rock crevice. A row of sharp teeth lines the milky white mouth for which it’s named. A green sea turtle has backed into a crevice and keeps an eye on our movement, slowly opening and closing its mouth. We keep a respectful distance, but I wouldn’t be surprised to learn Rachel is on a first-name basis with this individual and a few others on the reef. She’s been sharing her enthusiasm for diving with Maui residents and visitors for the last eighteen years and it seems like a perfect match for a person as ebullient as the bubbles she sells. The orientation includes a basic vocabulary of underwater sign language. Rachel
ALL UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE CESERE BROTHERS, CESEREBROTHERS.COM
Inside the milky gape of the whitemouth eel lie two sets of jaws: one snags its prey, then the inner jaw thrusts forward to swallow dinner whole!
ADVENTURE Spectator sport: Observing a pair of fighting parrotfish not kissing and making up.
A harlequin shrimp does a fair impersonation of an underwater orchid.
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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A dragon wrasse makes good use of camouflage.
The triggerfish, better known in the Islands as humuhumunukunukuapua‘a, is Hawai‘i’s state fish.
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Get to know your local ray: The constellation of freckles on the belly are unique to each manta ray and help researchers identify and track individuals over many years.
taps her shoulders twice, an in-house gesture lacking international recognition. It translates loosely as “Giggles.” It can be awfully hard to see a huge grin behind all that gear. I had expected to be awed by closer looks at coralline gardens and mesmerized by colorful fish. I had imagined the joy of cruising under water without worrying about where my next breath was coming from. But I wasn’t ready for the shift in perspective that came from getting comfortable sitting on the sandy sea floor, an occasional pair of snorkeler’s legs on the surface the only evidence of that other world I inhabit. I couldn’t really comprehend how much life there is in the same waters I had blissfully traversed from above, only dimly aware of the riotous party going on below. This, I think, must be why people get hooked on diving; there’s so much to see when you slow down and look. And it’s not just simple identification—this fish or that coral— but weird adaptations, intriguing behaviors, unexpected relationships. Not all is obvious. As friend and veteran diver Philip Thomas explains, “The more you look, the cooler it gets.” Philip can spend two hours at one rock. “The fish get used to you after awhile and start coming back.” Rachel and I glide across a patch of open sand and I almost miss it: a four-inch green leaf marked with dark bars and white speckles undulates in place. It’s a dragon wrasse. I learn later that this wraithlike fish is a juvenile and, like most of the rest of us, will fill out as it ages and be practically unrecognizable as the same creature when it reaches adulthood.
An almost imperceptible mound in the coral rubble gives away the peacock flounder’s disguise. The developmental migration of one eye over the top of its head is key to its flattened shape, allowing it to blend in so well with its sandy blanket that unsuspecting prey don’t see this ambush predator until it’s too late. It’s not all about competition on the reef. A scoop of sand the width of my hand is home to a fish-shrimp combo. The Hawaiian shrimp goby, a mere 2½-inch, patchy-sided fish, has taken up residence with a slightly smaller snapping shrimp. The almost-blind shrimp is busy with home maintenance—clearing out rubble from the entrance to their shared flat—while its bigger buddy stands guard. A twitch of the goby’s tail will signal the shrimp that danger is near, causing a dash to safety. Apparently, we pose no threat and the tiny crustacean labors on. I discover that maintaining the desired depth takes a bit of practice and suspect that regular yoga practitioners would have a natural advantage. Several times I inexplicably find myself near the surface. “Exhale fully,” Rachel calmly instructs, using a small writing slate, and miraculously I descend again. I ease into slow, full breaths, getting used to the sucking sound of air in, and gurgly sound of air out. As I come close to the end of my tank, I’m ready to feel the sun’s warm rays, but I’m happily destined for another dive. Three days later, I head out to the open waters on the Maui Diamond II, a dive boat operated by Rachel and her husband, Don. All but four of the sixteen guests are certified divers; the company provides tanks, gear if needed, and transportation to two dive spots, the first at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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ADVENTURE
Blue dragon nudibranch; Right, a juvenile yellowtail coris
Molokini islet. Our smaller group will be limited to snorkeling at this crescent-shaped volcanic cone. Only certified divers are allowed at the marine reserve, a restriction designed to protect this spectacular reef area from damage caused by people like me—inexperienced divers. Molokini is justly renowned for its diverse reef habitat and marine life. The islet’s waters support more than 250 species of reef fish, 38 species of corals, and a hundred different algae species. Divers can explore the protected center reef, edge up to the inner rim, or drop off the steep back side to their personal depth limits—the outer wall plunges to 310 feet. I wistfully watch as our dive group steps off the boat one by one into some of the clearest water in the state. On the plus side, it’s a lot easier to ask questions without a regulator in my mouth, and I badger our snorkeling guide, Chris Quarre, to tell me what I’ve just seen. My “life list” of eel species doubles when he points out a yellow-margin moray eel. As the divers return and are helped out of their gear, they query each other: Did you see the manta rays? The frogfish? We anchor off Wailea Point and practice some basic dive-safety skills: tossing aside and retrieving our breathing regulators and removing water from our masks when we’re submerged. I am in awe of the young East Coast couple in our group whose first and only snorkeling experience was our stop at Molokini. Less than an hour later they become the most recent entrants to the club, as our foursome trails our guide past Moorish idols, explores a jauntily decorated nudibranch (sea slug) and checks out a resting sea turtle. It’s a different experience launching from a boat right into the ocean, and the morning is more social, especially given the high degree of crew camaraderie. I ask about favorite dive spots, and Quarre says, “The tourism agencies don’t do enough to promote Maui as a worldclass dive destination. There is so much variety here.” Three dive sites, Molokini, Hulopo‘e on Lāna‘i, and ‘Ahihi-Kina‘u past Mākena, have Exploring Molokini
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legal prohibitions against collecting or fishing, helping to ensure healthy reefs for future generations to enjoy. Another favorite entry point for divers is Māliko Gulch; the wind- and wave-battered reefs on the north side support entirely different communities of marine life. Want more variety? Try exploring the sunken ship Carthaginian in the waters off Lahaina, or strap on a headlamp for a night dive. “You get completely different species and behaviors at night,” Philip says. “Even the colors are different.” I begin to wonder what kind of diver I will become—a contemplative observer or sprinting explorer. Either way, after two dives I’m ready for more. Plus, I’ve got the basic language down: “Okay!” Tap. Tap.
Dive In! Maui Dreams Dive Company offers more than thirty courses, from an introductory dive for $89 from shore ($145 from boat), to international scuba certification and progressively more advanced training. A quick Internet search will turn up a wealth of information on other companies and dive sites. Maui Dreams Dive Company, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd. Kīhei (808) 874-5332 • MauiDreamsDiveCo.com
If You Go....
» Plan your dive / dive your plan. » Always dive with a partner—and within your training level. » Know and maintain your equipment or use a reputable dive shop. » Know the limits: Don’t fly too soon after you dive. » Take only photos; leave only bubbles. » Consider joining DAN—Divers Alert Network, a nonprofit that supports safe diving. This baby frogfish is already a master of mimicry, looking more like a sponge than a fish.
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A dollar sign embedded in the pavement marks the entrance to National Dollar Store in this 1960 photo of Main Street, Wailuku. Today the building is home to the Maui Academy of Performing Arts (pictured below). Happily, the dollar sign remains.
Having grown up here in the 1950s and ’60s, I sometimes—okay, often—wax nostalgic about the Maui of my youth, when the resident population was a quarter of today’s, folks waited patiently on twolane roads for drivers headed in opposite directions to finish chatting, and TV shows arrived by plane a week after airing on the mainland. Time has brought many changes, but vestiges of that sweeter, simpler Maui remain, among them several venerable buildings that have been preserved, restored and brilliantly repurposed. These grand old dames brimming with new life comfort and inspire me. As an aging structure myself, I’m grateful for the thought that good maintenance and a fresh mission could extend and enhance my golden years, too!
NATIONAL DOLLAR STORE When the San Francisco-based National Dollar Stores chain opened its Maui outlet in November 1951, thousands of eager bargain hunters flocked to Wailuku for the grand opening. A little farther up Main Street, S. H. Kress Store had already established itself, sixteen years earlier, as the premier shopping destination for islanders. The National Dollar Store was a little smaller than Kress, and it didn’t have a lunch counter or sticky-sweet colored popcorn, but its main attraction was budget clothing for the entire family, no matter how large your family or how small your budget. The store also featured housewares and toys, lots of toys, again at discount prices. Several generations of local families ritually made pilgrimages to National Dollar for back-to-school wardrobes and holiday gifts. While Mom pored over racks and stacks of garments, we kids gleefully rummaged through giant bins of plastic toys: cars, dinosaurs, little green army men. Even Dad could get into shopping mode, browsing through 32
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sporting goods, hobby equipment, or household gadgets. The retail chain folded in 1996 after nearly a century in business on the West Coast and in Hawai‘i. The following year, with a county grant and a low-interest federal loan, the Maui Academy of Performing Arts bought the empty Wailuku store and converted it into studios and workspace. Today, more than 2,000 children and adults annually attend classes in dance, drama, and singing at the MAPA Main Studios. The building again buzzes with the joyful energy of youth; only now, instead of squeals of delight over discoveries in the toy bins, visitors hear the laughter and cheers of children finding themselves.
BAILEY HOUSE My first childhood home, tucked between mango and avocado trees on a narrow Wailuku lane, sat about a quarter mile from the Bailey House. One 1960s summer, my cousin and I pedaled up the hill on our tricycles to check out the then-new museum. The kindly tūtū
TOP: WAYNE TANAKA PHOTO COURTESY OF GAIL TANAKA; COURTESY OF GOOGLE STREET OPPOSITE (2): MAUI HISTORICAL SOCIETY/HALE HŌ‘IKE‘IKE AT THE BAILEY HOUSE
Story by Kathy Collins
ISLAND BUSINESS
(grandmother) at the reception desk gave us free rein, and after a few daily visits, we became unofficial docents, greeting the tour buses on their way to ‘Īao Needle. A few times, we strung lei of plumeria from my cousin’s tree and sold them to visitors for fifty cents each. For another dollar, we’d give them a guided tour of the old missionary home, which, by then, we considered our own. The historic significance of the Bailey House, originally named the Central Wailuku Female Seminary, predates the building itself. Constructed in 1833, the old mission school stands on the grounds of what was once the royal compound of Kahekili, Maui’s last ruling chief. Missionary Edward T. Bailey served as headmaster from 1840 until its closure in the mid-1850s. A man of far-ranging talents, including oil painting, engineering, botany, and poetry, Bailey designed the nearby Ka‘ahumanu Church, as well as numerous roads and bridges in the area. He built and operated his own sugar mill on the site, and became the first manager of Wailuku Sugar Company. After Bailey and his family returned to the United States in 1888, the home continued as the plantation manager’s residence until 1924. Over the next several decades, the two-story stone structure housed Wailuku Sugar’s offices, and was used as Civil Defense headquarters during World War II. In 1957, the plantation offered the newly formed Maui Historical Society a $1 annual lease of the
building and grounds for a museum named Hale Hō‘ike‘ike (House of Display). When the plantation closed in 1992, Maui businessman and philanthropist Masaru “Pundy” Yokouchi purchased the property, then donated it to the society. As Maui’s nascent tourism industry took root, the museum’s board dropped the Hawaiian name, perhaps because “Bailey House” was easier for visitors to pronounce—and remember. With the resurgence of Hawaiian culture, the museum’s original name has been brought back. Today Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House holds Maui’s largest display of Hawaiian artifacts dating back to the pre-contact era. Where young Hawaiians of an earlier century were once taught “proper” western skills, the society now presents historical lectures and workshops. The museum’s gift shop offers a variety of made-onMaui products (though no longer by six-year-old lei makers); and extensive archives, stored in a downstairs vault, are accessible to the public by appointment. “We are the caretakers of Maui’s history,” says Hale Hō‘ike‘ike executive director Sissy Lake-Farm.
KAUNOA ENGLISH STANDARD SCHOOL Even after being recognized as a legitimate creole language, our island “Pidgin” is still mistaken for a local dialect or “broken English” by both newcomers and kama‘āina (native-born; literally, “child of the
The Bailey House has seen quite a few changes since its construction in 1833. At first a female seminary, it was the home of Wailuku Sugar Company’s manager by the 1870s, when the photo above was taken. Today the building houses the Maui Historical Society (pictured at right), and recently returned to its original name, Hale Hō‘ike‘ike. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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ISLAND BUSINESS
land”). Hawai‘i Creole English evolved on the islands’ nineteenthcentury sugar plantations as a way for immigrant workers from Asia and Europe to communicate with each other and with their Englishspeaking bosses. HCE/Pidgin eventually became the primary tongue for generations of locals. In 1920, fearful that their children could not receive adequate education in public school, where Pidgin was the first language of most students, 400 Caucasian parents petitioned the territory’s Department of Public Instruction for a school in which only “proper” English would be spoken. That same year, a federal study concluded that the prevalence of nonnative English speakers in the public schools was indeed a detriment. Four years later, the department initiated the English Standard School system at Lincoln Elementary on O‘ahu, and in 1926, the Maui Standard School (later renamed Kaunoa English Standard School) opened in Spreckelsville, a thriving company town at the time. Though many folks referred to it as “the haole [foreign] school,” attendance was not based on ethnicity; however, to be accepted, a child had to pass an English fluency test. The first few classes were predominantly Caucasian, because haoles were the only ones who spoke Standard English at home, but gradually Kaunoa’s population included students of various ethnicities. Most grew up bilingual, comfortable with Standard English as well as HCE. The late U.S. Congresswoman Patsy Takemoto Mink and former Maui Mayor Charmaine Tavares were Kaunoa graduates; either one could turn on the Pidgin “mo’ fast than one ‘uku [flea] can jump!” Controversial from the start because of its inherent segregation,
the English Standard system fell further out of favor after World War II, and in 1949, the state legislature ordered the DPI to begin dismantling the system. Kaunoa was converted into a regular public school in 1957. In 1964, dwindling enrollment forced its closure. But not for long. With the federal Older Americans Act of 1965, Kaunoa School became a multipurpose center for senior citizens, operated by the community organization Maui Economic Opportunity. The County of Maui took over in the early 1970s, and Kaunoa Senior Center now serves more than 5,000 participants annually through its services and programs, including home-delivered and on-site meals, assisted transportation, volunteer opportunities and recreational activities. Kaunoa offers over 100 classes each week, from acrylic painting to Zumba. Outside the old cafeteria—the one original building that remains, though its shell has been refurbished—a memorial plaque sits beneath a sprawling monkeypod tree, which, presumably, is also an original school fixture. Donated by the Class of 1957 during its fiftieth-anniHali‘imaile General Store really was a plantation store when this photo was taken in the early 1960s. Today it’s an award-winning restaurant helmed by Chef Beverly Gannon, one of the twelve originators of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine.
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TOP: MAUI HISTORICAL SOCIETY/HALE HŌ‘IKE‘IKE AT THE BAILEY HOUSE; INSET: KAUNOA; BOTTOM: MAUI LAND & PINEAPPLE CO.
The building in this 1926 photograph is the Maui Standard School, later renamed Kaunoa English Standard School. What’s in a name? Caucasian parents’ fervent desire to have their children speak “proper English.” Some of those youngsters, now oldsters, take classes in everything from cooking to tai chi at what’s now Kaunoa Senior Center (at right).
TOP: MAUI HISTORICAL SOCIETY/HALE HŌ‘IKE‘IKE AT THE BAILEY HOUSE; LAHAINA HISTORICAL SOCIETY
This black-and-white photo was taken in 1909, eleven years after the Kingdom of Hawai‘i became a U.S. territory. The renovated building at left houses a museum, art gallery and visitor center.
versary reunion, the plaque often spurs fond recollections by Kaunoa School alumni who are now Kaunoa Senior Center volunteers and participants. More often than not, those memories are recounted in Pidgin. Just sayin’.
LAHAINA COURTHOUSE In the 1960s, the state Department of Education designated fifth grade to be the year of “Hawaiiana,” when all public-school children would study the history of our islands. For Maui kids, the highlight of fifth grade was the requisite excursion to Lāhaina for a tour of the former capital’s historic sites: the coral-walled prison yard of Hale Pa‘ahao (Stuck-in-Irons House), Hawai‘i’s first printing press at Lāhainaluna High School, and my favorite stop: brown-bag lunching under the banyan tree before exploring the adjacent courthouse. Built during the reign of King Kamehameha IV, the original Lahaina Courthouse opened in 1860 with a single courtroom, offices for the governor of Maui, sheriff and district attorney, a post office, and a customs house for whaling and trade ships. After the U.S. annexation of Hawai‘i in 1898, the building continued to serve as a government center, but the American flag replaced the banner of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. In 1925, the courthouse was renovated in the Greek architectural style with a gabled roof, a balcony overlooking Lahaina Harbor, and stately columns guarding the entrance. The courtroom remained upstairs, the post office and police station occupied the ground floor, and a jail was installed in the basement. In the 1970s, those functions were relocated to the new Lahaina Civic Center on Honoapi‘ilani Highway near Kā‘anapali. And when
the law moved out, history and the arts moved in. The old courthouse is now home to the Lāhaina Visitor Center, Lāhaina Arts Society galleries, and the Lāhaina Town Action Committee offices. On the second floor, alongside the preserved remnants of the original courtroom and the Hawaiian flag that was lowered in 1898, the Lāhaina Restoration Foundation has installed the Lāhaina Heritage Museum in partnership with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, and the National Marine Sanctuary Foundation. History buffs and ocean enthusiasts will find much to explore here, from the museum’s extensive displays and artifacts, to a small movie theater with archival films on a loop. Downstairs, behind the bars of the old jail cells, paintings and photographs by Maui artists provide a decidedly more pleasant atmosphere than experienced by the rowdy revelers and errant sailors of old.
HĀLI‘IMAILE GENERAL STORE For more than thirty years, this Upcountry restaurant has earned the acclaim of gourmets and gourmands with its award-winning American/Asian cuisine. But kama‘āina of a certain age fondly remember when its most popular culinary offerings were Saloon Pilot crackers and canned Vienna sausages. Back then it really was a general store, built in 1925 by Maui Agricultural Company, the forerunner of Maui Land & Pineapple Company, to serve what was then a pineapple plantation camp. Throughout the golden era of “King Pine”—up until the 1970s— Hāli‘imaile Store was a one-stop shop for plantation families, and a virtual village square. After a long day in the fields, workers would stop by to check their post office boxes at the front of the store and linger on the large lānai to “talk story.” Housewives visited the butcher shop, fish market, or grocery department daily, in preparation for the evening’s meal. As second-graders, my best friend and I raced to the store from the camp bus stop every Friday afternoon to buy penny candy and vanilla Popsicles for the walk home. When she took over the building’s lease in 1988, Bev Gannon was still a few years away from being recognized as one of the twelve island chefs who defined Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. She intended to run a gourmet deli and catering service along with the general store, but before long, Gannon acquiesced to her patrons’ requests for a sitdown restaurant . . . and the rest, as they say, is history. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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USMC/CPL. REECE LODDER
HAWAIIAN SOUL
HAWAIIANS CALL IT MAKAHIKI—THE MONTHS WHEN WORK AND WARFARE CEASE IN CELEBRATION OF A GOD’S RETURN. STORY BY TEYA PENNIMAN
Once a year, as the sun slips into the ocean, a watery blue cluster of stars rises from the opposite skyline. The first appearance of the Pleiades, known in Hawaiian as Makali‘i, signals the beginning of the Makahiki season in Hawai‘i, a time of ancient ceremonies celebrating the arrival of Lono—god of thunder, rain and harvest. This Hawaiian tradition resonates with the late-fall and winter holidays of other cultures, with their themes of abundance, thankfulness, and peace. But Makahiki is far more than a series of rituals lasting over several days. For a full four months, the practices of Makahiki in pre-Contact Hawai‘i touched the life of every islander, helped manage and distribute the bounty of land and sea, and mandated a prolonged period of peace and festivities. As the Pleiades began their arc across the sky, priests closed the temples associated with Kū, the god of war, farming and fishing. Bloodshed and many forms of manual labor came to a halt. Commoners and chiefs shifted their focus to Lono, honoring his power to ensure future crops. Crackling is the voice of the thunder, Crackling within the shining black cloud, Broken are the mountain springs below, The god returns and dwells in the clefts; The god returns and dwells in obscurity, The god Lono returns and dwells in the softened soil. From Fornander’s Collection of Hawaiian Antiquities and Folklore
Hawaiian belief associates specific deities with different facets of life. Each element has its own god, and each god can take many body forms, or kino lau. Thus, the sacred is inextricably linked to the natural world, for all parts of nature are manifestations of the divine. Because a kino lau is a physical manifestation of a supernatural being, incorporating that form in worship engages the Opposite: A modern-day procession in Waimānalo, O‘ahu, signals the arrival of Makahiki. The wooden staff, with its crosspiece draped in white kapa and feather lei, represents the god Lono.
Top: The rising of the Pleiades at sunset is often used to mark the onset of Makahiki, the beginning of the Hawaiian year, but dates and perspectives vary. The Bishop Museum Planetarium has shifted from relying solely on astronomical phenomena to using David Malo’s account (in Hawaiian Antiquities) of the markers of Makahiki, which is more aligned to traditional tracking of the days and months. For 2020, the time of Makahiki extends from September 28 to December 28. Above: A drawing by John Webber captures a boxing match held for Captain Cook “at Owyhee, Sandwich Islands,” on January 28, 1779. The warm welcome Cook first received in Hawai‘i had much to do with the uncanny resemblance his ships’ sails bore to the effigy of Lono, and to a coincidence of timing—he arrived, like Lono, during Makahiki. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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god himself. Lono’s many kino lau include the kukui tree, clouds and the sweet potato. These and other forms of Lono preside over different parts of Makahiki. In the Hawaiian pantheon, Lono is the only deity who departs and returns with the seasons, a characteristic he shares with harvest gods of other religions. He is also the only god who each year circumnavigates all the islands. In Hawaiian Mythology, folklorist Martha Beckwith recounts that, while playing checkers (konane) with his wife, Kaikilani, Lono overhears a stranger address her as his lover. In a fit of jealousy, Lono kills Kaikilani. At once, anguish overcomes him, and he roams the islands, challenging every man he meets to combat. “The people astonished said, ‘Is [Lono] entirely mad?’ He replied, ‘I am frantic on her account, I am frantic with my great love.’” To honor the memory of Kaikilani, Lono established games of physical and mental skill, then “he embarked in a triangular boat . . . and sailed to a foreign land. “Ere he departed he prophesied, ‘I will return in after times, on an island bearing coconut trees, and swine, and dogs.’” In pre-Contact Hawai‘i, Lono’s priests fulfilled that prophesy at Makahiki by reenacting the god’s circuit around each island, carrying with them an effigy called the akua loa, or “long god,” for the length of its journey. The akua loa was a great staff of wood, topped with a carved human head. Sheets of white kapa (bark cloth), spiral feather lei and ferns fluttered from its crosspiece. Chiefs, commoners, and priests traveled in this procession, stopping at every altar marking the boundary of an ahupua‘a, the traditional land division. An akua poko (“short god”) specific to the ahupua‘a accompanied the procession the length of its own district. At each boundary, the local people paid tribute in the form of ho‘okupu—bananas, sugar cane, pudding, kapa, feathers for cape making . . . the best from their villages. Farmers sought assurance of plentiful rain; the chiefs accepted the tributes as
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a levy of taxes. If the ho‘okupu was sufficient, the akua loa moved on, ushering in a time of festivities presided over by akua pā‘ani—the god of sports and games. The Makahiki ceremonies were much more than an elaborate means to redistribute wealth; this calendrical celebration helped Hawaiians live within their means. Ethnographer Kepā Maly says these ceremonial tributes allowed the chiefs and common people to take stock of their resources; abundant offerings signaled healthy lands and reefs. “Makahiki,” Maly says, “is about knowing boundaries—that resources have limitations. If we take too much today we will have zero for tomorrow.” Makahiki was a time of assessment, uniformly observed across the islands. It was, he says, a time of renewal for the people, the land and the sea. Miki‘ala Pescaia, a Hawaiian cultural practitioner from Moloka‘i, highlights the value of this respite from war. Moloka‘i, known as ‘āina momona (fat land) for its many resources, was easy prey for marauding chiefs from neighbor islands. Pescaia theorizes that Moloka‘i’s proximity to the other islands meant there was no time to prepare for battle once warring canoes were visible from shore. During the four months of Makahiki, she says, “People could tend to their nets, fix canoes, spend time with family, make plans, or teach their children without having their guard up.” After the akua loa had traversed an ahupua‘a, the people of the district held feasts and competitions that lasted for weeks, with foot races, wrestling, spear throwing, chanting, tug-of-war, and demonstrations of intellect. Boxing, by both men and women, became especially prominent at the games. Lewa Makali‘i, lewa Na-huihui Swings the Pleiades, Makali‘i, swings the Cluster, na Huihui From the creation chant Kumulipo
USMC/CPL. REECE LODDER
Recent years have seen a return of Makahiki festivities. This ceremony took place some years ago at Bellows Air Force Station, O‘ahu. The men in the foreground bear ho‘okupu, gifts of sugar cane and taro.
HAWAIIAN SOUL
HAWAI‘I STATE AARCHIVES
Photos from the Hawai‘i State Archives depict games of konane (Hawaiian checkers) and ‘ulu maika, a type of bowling.
The Makahiki rituals began to disappear from Hawai‘i with changes in religion and politics; Queens Ka‘ahumanu and Keōpūolani abolished the kapu (sacred, taboo) system in 1819, and heiau (temples) were later destroyed. But in some areas, Makahiki ceremonies persisted for decades. Moloka‘i, Pescaia says, always had pockets that held onto traditions. Unlike other islands, Moloka‘i never had large plantations, so people kept a personal connection to the ‘āina (land), and the Makahiki festivals continued there for another 100 years. As a child, Pescaia’s grandmother traveled by canoe along the island’s north shore, then scaled the mountain with her family to camp for weeks at the Makahiki grounds at Nā‘iwa. She saw the last of the traditional celebrations. Pescaia says that decades later, her grandmother and other kūpuna (elders) asked, “How blessed could we be if we went back to expressing our thankfulness the way our ancestors used to?” Moloka‘i’s modern Makahiki festival grew from that thought and has been going for more than thirty years, bringing together competitors and thousands of spectators from across the islands.* Like her kūpuna before her, Pescaia has been deeply involved in Makahiki. She has helped prepare middle- and high-school students who come to participate, taking the best of the best, the students chosen to represent each school, to Nā‘iwa. Students learn of their ancestors who boxed, chanted, and danced for the glory of their homes and their families on those same sacred grounds. They hear stories of the ultimate sacrifice, how a makua (parent, uncle) would come to Nā‘iwa to give his last breath (hā) to a young man, imparting the elder’s wisdom, knowledge and strength to help make the youth the best competitor he could be. The elder and youth touched noses, breathing the same air. “Everything I have, I give to you.” “Everything” included breath itself, after which, the elder died. After telling the students this, Pescaia has asked how many of their parents make sacrifices for their sports or studies, and how many
of the students ever cut class or cheated on a test. “You have been blessed to receive all these wonderful things. What are you doing to continue the legacy you have inherited?” The reflowering of Hawaiian culture has brought with it a growing appreciation for the lessons of Makahiki. “It’s still important,” Kepā Maly says, “because it connects people with the sacred, familial relationship shared with the land and natural resources about them.” Ke‘eaumoku Kapu, taro farmer and Hawaiian cultural practitioner, says, “In pre-Contact Hawai‘i we could manage ourselves by identifying different moons, seasons, and stars” to help grow and harvest abundant food—enough to sustain island populations similar to today. Just as the first sighting each year of a single constellation triggered a time for renewal, he sees Makahiki as a “cultural beacon to bring reverence to the ways of the past” that sustain the land. For the close of the 2009 Makahiki season, Kapu helped organize a torch walk that encircled the island of Maui, covering 193 miles over seven days. He says the walk was about enlightening and unifying the people of Maui. The time of Lono being among us, he says, tells us to prepare for the future by taking care of the ‘āina. Kapu says participating in traditional practices can also be a stimulus for economic generation, noting that more island hotels are incorporating traditions and ceremonies into their everyday operations, deepening the experience for workers and visitors alike. When the Makali‘i climbed from the eastern horizon at sunrise and was no longer visible in the night sky, Hawai‘i’s elaborate harvest festival drew to a close. Towards the end of the traditional Makahiki festivities, four men lifted a large net filled with many different kinds of food and shook it. Food slipping through the mesh promised a time of plenty—the opposite warned of famine. An unpainted canoe was put to sea, lifting the kapu on farming and fishing. Filled with a basket full of food, the canoe was set adrift: Lono departing the island.
* Because of the pandemic, families are observing 2020’s Makahiki at home. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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MAUI STYLE
Shaka List 2020 25 Reasons to Love Maui Story by Shannon Wianecki
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JAWS
A few times a year, sea conditions converge to create a massive surf break at Pe‘ahi, known around the world as Jaws. In the predawn hours, jittery surfers wax boards and ready their jet skis, helicopters zoom in for jaw-dropping shots, and thundering waves pound the coastline, audible to those still in their beds miles away. Photo by Bob Bangerter
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HASHIMOTO PERSIMMONS
In autumn, reddish-orange globes ripen in the orchards along Pūlehuiki Road in Upcountry Kula. Shinichi Hashimoto planted persimmons here more than 100 years ago; his trees still bear sweet fruit. Buy a box of the family farm’s crunchy fuyu persimmons, but save room for a few plump hachiya. When ripe, these flamecolored softballs dissolve into delectable jelly.
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KU‘IA CHOCOLATE
When Gunars Valkirs planted a cacao farm in Lahaina, and later opened a chocolate factory, few knew how much sweet charity the CEO of Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate had in mind. When the pandemic changed things, so did Ku‘ia. If you visit its website (MauiChocolate.com) and click on “Chocolate Laulima,” a list of nonprofits drops down. Choose one you’d like to help, order $100’s worth of chocolate, and Ku‘ia will ship the chocolates and write the nonprofit a check for 40 percent of the sales. For more information, visit MauiMagazine.net/kuiaestate-chocolate. Photo by Ku‘ia Chocolate
SHAKA [shah-kah] noun 1. Extension of thumb and pinkie to form a “Y”; 2. A gesture conveying a quintessentially Hawaiian greeting, a sign of friendly intent. (See also: “Hang loose.”) Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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CHASING WATERFALLS
After a good rain, East Maui overflows with waterfalls. Some plummet 400 feet over fern-filled ledges, sending a halo of mist rising from wet rocks. Others trickle softly into deep jadeite pools. Hawaiian mo‘o (lizard deities) are said to protect these freshwater tributaries, which can swell to raging rivers during flash floods. If you choose to enter the mo‘o’s domain, do so with respect and common sense. Photo by Chris Archer
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PADDLE FOR LIFE
Every October, the Pacific Cancer Foundation holds Paddle for Life, a two-day event in which cancer survivors and supporters paddle outrigger canoes to raise funds for Maui’s cancer community. To quote the foundation’s website, “It’s not a race . . . it’s a voyage.” It’s also a dip into Hawaiian culture through paddling, ceremony and chants. Plans changed in 2020, with Paddle for Life extended throughout October, and instead of one big gathering, teams of six chose when and where to take to the water— perhaps at sunrise, or under a full moon; along the south coastline, or around Molokini. Photo by Michael Fish
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WINGING IT
Wing surfing may be relatively new, but the sport is taking off. “The technology came from kite-surfing,” says Audrey Davis, of Naish, “but wing surfing is much friendlier. You can learn it fairly quickly, and the equipment is minimal: grab your [inflatable sail] and your foilboard or SUP, and you are good to go.” Because it requires far less ocean space than kiting, she adds, “wing surfing can be done just about anywhere and in any strength of wind.” As SurferToday notes, “It’s all about carving around [and] having fun.” Photo by Fish Bowl Diaries
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ARCHIE KALEPA
This real-life Maui superman was among the first tow-in surfers to brave seventyfoot-tall waves at Pe‘ahi and the first to stand-up paddle solo across the Moloka‘i Channel. The former lifeguard captain developed innovative ocean-rescue techniques and saved lives (including one dog) during 1992’s Hurricane Iniki. Kalepa sailed aboard the voyaging canoes Hōkūle‘a and Hawai‘iloa on multiple ocean crossings. Still, this lifelong waterman says that one of his most rewarding accomplishments was the restoration of his family’s lo‘i kalo (taro patch). After more than 130 years, the mountain stream flows through the lo‘i again, feeding the taro, the community, and the culture. Photo by Jason Moore
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TANYA KAINA DOYLE
In 2019, this UH Maui College culinary graduate launched her namesake food truck, All Kaina Grindz, creating a following with island favorite like five-spice pork-belly kimchee-fried rice. Tanya also cofounded the nonprofit Future Grindz, whose apprentice program trains high-school students in food preparation and safety. Future Grindz’s Kupuna Meals also teaches students community outreach, having them cook meals for kūpuna (elders). Photo by All Kaina Grindz
PU‘U KUKUI
Atop Pu‘u Kukui, the “hill of enlightenment,” grows an enchanted forest—jewellike ‘ōhi‘a trees and silverswords, fully mature, but just six inches tall. Among Earth’s rainiest locales, it’s the mountain home of Kihawahine, a powerful mo‘o, or lizard goddess. It’s also our water factory. Few of us will ever visit the inaccessible summit of the West Maui Mountains, but we all benefit from the fresh water captured by its pristine ecosystem. View photos of the rare inhabitants of this realm in Remains of a Rainbow by Susan Middleton and David Liittschwager. Photo by Shannon Wianecki
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10 DARK SKIES
Light pollution has effectively erased the night sky over much of the United States. Not so on Maui. Tilt your head towards the Milky Way. Drink in the stars, the yetunexplored galaxies, and ponder your small spot in this infinite universe. Photo by Matt Morris @InstaMauiMatt
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DIVERSIFIED AG
Maui farmers have been busy planting all kinds of specialty crops: cacao, coffee, dragon fruit, dryland kalo (taro), moringa and olives. With all the new agricultural land opening up, it’s possible Maui could tip its scales towards food self-sufficiency.
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12 HAU
Polynesian voyagers carried this tree hibiscus to Hawai‘i in their canoes. Its octopus-like branches yield luminous fiber when stripped and soaked, a perfect material for hula skirts and cordage. At dawn, lovely hau flowers bloom bright yellow; by dusk they’ve turned crimson and fallen. Photo by Forest & Kim Starr
LEI BY HAWAII FLORA + FAUNA
Featured in The New York Times Style Magazine, Lauren Shearer’s exquisite garlands are the ultimate fashion accessory. The Mauiborn and -raised artist turns every available flower, seed, and leaf into a creative expression of beauty. Her wilder impulses even led her to string centipedes and honeybees into lei! Photo courtesy of Hawaii Flora + Fauna
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13 KIWIKIU
The saffron Maui parrotbill is endemic to the Valley Isle; it exists nowhere else on Earth. Its recently given name, kiwikiu, is both onomatopoeic—sounding like the bird’s chipper call—and a blend of the Hawaiian words kiwi (curved, like its beak) and kiu, referring to the cold, brisk kiukiu breeze that blows across the forests above Makawao, where the bird lives. Let’s cherish every one by supporting the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project’s habitat restoration efforts. Photo by Mike Neal
RAINBOW EUCALYPTUS TREES
No, you’re not in a fairy tale. The Fantasia-colored trees are real. See them growing near ‘Ulupalakua Vineyards Upcountry, or at mile marker 7 on the Hāna Highway. Photo by Daniel Kruse
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BASKING TURTLES
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Over the last decade, Maui’s green sea turtles (honu) have resumed an ancient ritual: coming ashore to catch some zzzs. Turtles can be seen on a dozen Maui beaches, basking in the sun—and in the attention of appreciative beachgoers. Reminder: Disturbing sea turtles is against the law. Stay at least ten feet from the snoozing reptiles. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker
KEAWALA‘I CHURCH
Devout Hawaiians built this seaside sanctuary in 1832, originally out of pili grass, later of stone and coral mortar. From the altar made of ‘iliahi, ‘ulu, milo and koa woods, pastors expound on God’s love in English and Hawaiian. Classical concerts here draw crowds that spill out the doors. 190 Mākena Road, Mākena keawalai.org Photo by John Giordani
LAHAINA JODO MISSION BUDDHA
The first Japanese nationals arrived in Hawai‘i in 1868. One hundred years later, a twelve-foot-tall Buddha followed, to commemorate the issei (first wave of immigrants) and their descendants. The three-and-a-half-ton statue sits with its back to West Maui’s Mauna Kahalawai, gazing serenely at the gilded Pacific. Photo by John Giordani
MAUI HUMANE SOCIETY
When COVID-19 layoffs left folks financially strapped, the society secured grants to start 4Ever Pets, a program that provides pet owners with free pet food—over 3K pounds and counting. It’s one of many successful initiatives, like Beach Buddies (hosting a dog for a day), and Wings of Aloha (flying animals off island into adoption-guaranteed care). Photo by Conn Brattain
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HAWAIIAN HUMPBACK WHALE RECOVERY
Pop the champagne! Thanks to the international ban on commercial whaling and other protections, the population of humpback whales that winter in the Hawaiian Islands grew from 4,000 to 10,000. The charismatic cetaceans migrated right off of the Endangered Species List in 2016. To appreciate that milestone, duck your head under water. Hold your breath and listen to these mysterious giants of the deep sing to one another. Whoa. Or eavesdrop on their live conversation at WhaleSong.net. Photo by Jason Moore
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T. KOMODA STORE & BAKERY
Our favorite Makawao mom-and-pop shop celebrated its 100th birthday in 2016, and are we glad they’re still around! Don’t leave Maui without a box full of Komoda’s stick donuts and cream puffs, sealed with their telltale yellow tape. 3674 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao. 808-572-7261 Photo by John Giordani Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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PUKALANI SUPERETTE
The ‘ahi poke at this little Upcountry market will take you back to a time when flavors were simple, when this iconic dish was seasoned with just salt and seaweed. Taste it again. There’s no hiding the fish under a blanket of chili peppers, sriracha, shoyu, or mayonnaise. Meet the poke that started it all. Simple. Good. Fresh. Local style. Photo by Pukalani Superette
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VISITOR INDUSTRY CHARITY WALK
Each year, folks by the thousands show up in team T-shirts to take part in the statewide Visitor Industry Charity Walk, raising funds for Hawai‘i’s nonprofits and folks in need. It’s a party on foot, complete with refreshments and entertainment. For the past ten years, Maui has consistently raised more than any other island—including O‘ahu, which has three times the enrolled walkers and five times the population. In 2019, the Maui Hotel & Lodging Association again broke records, step by step raising $1,300,000. Congratulations to Maui County—home to the biggest hearts in Hawai‘i!
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MĀKENA STATE PARK
Dolphins often cruise by Maui’s biggest beach, where skimboarders catch air, and hummocks of soft sand muffle the sound of slapping waves. Community groups routinely fight to keep this golden treasure wild. We’re so grateful. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker
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KA LIMA O MAUI
Like the rest of the clients Ka Lima O Maui serves, this landscaping crew will soon operate out of new digs. In August, the agency broke ground on a long-awaited home of its own: the Martin Center for Self-Reliance and Opportunity, which will be located above the Cameron Center in Wailuku. Founded in 1955, Ka Lima is Maui’s oldest nonprofit agency, providing training, job placement, and, most importantly, paychecks and self-esteem for adults with disabilities. Congratulations, Ka Lima! Photo by Christopher Douglass Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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AT HOME
New owners added a wealth of tropical foliage to this Kula residence, creating a garden ambiance that envelops you the moment you arrive. Expanding on an existing rock theme, they also replaced the original front steps with a concrete and lava-rock bridge.
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Translated into Hawaiian
Renovations give an Upcountry dwelling an island sense of place. STORY BY HEIDI POOL | PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN SIPHERS
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AT HOME
When Allen and Ann first saw the Kula property they now call home, Allen loved it immediately. They were living near the ocean in Spreckelsville, but were ready to downsize. “Allen was completely taken by the bicoastal view,” Ann recalls. “He’d always wanted to live Upcountry. The idea of being cooled by fresh breezes rather than air conditioning really appealed to him. He also liked that the property was surrounded by lush pasture, complete with cattle, horses, chickens . . . a country oasis.” An interior designer, Ann had a different view of the house. “It was relatively new, built in 2000 with good construction and good bones. But a major drawback for me was that it reflected neither the island nor the native culture. It was a house you might find anywhere in the United States.” Outside, it was an Arts & Crafts home, a design characterized by the use of lots of natural materials and glass. Inside, it was, well, eclectic. “The interior contained Greek-style columns, dentil molding, and whitewashed cabinets with colonial molding and corner rosettes,” Ann says. A large marble fireplace monopolized what was then the master bedroom; and the living room was painted brown—which, coupled with the exposed-beam ceiling, gave it a cavelike quality. So the plucky designer, who says she’s never met a house she couldn’t fix, set out to transform it into a home that would function well for the couple and properly showcase their extensive collection of Hawaiian artwork, artifacts, and memorabilia. The first thing to go was that marble fireplace. “It took up the largest wall in the bedroom, which meant the bed had to go on a very small wall, leav-
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Fireplace as gallery: Rebuilt in lava rock, the living room’s fireplace provides a backFireplace asagallery: drop for paintingRebuilt by Maui in lava rock, the living room’s artist Lisa Kasprzycki, and fireplace a backdrop for koaprovides canoes by Miles Fry for a painting Maui Above and FrancisbyPimmel. artist Lisa and a wall of Kasprzycki, glass doors leading for koa by Miles Fry by out canoes to the lānai, photos and Francis Pimmel.hint Above Ron Dahlquist at the a wall of glass doors viewsleading beyond. out to the lānai, photos by Ron Dahlquist hint at the views beyond.
ing no room for end tables,” Ann says. They also replaced the kitchen cabinets’ doors with custom African teak, and changed nearly all light fixtures, except for three Tiffany-style pendant lamps in the entry. “I never would have chosen them for this house, but it turns out I love the quality of light they emit,” she says. Ann also had the living room’s fireplace overhauled to give it more presence in the highceilinged room. It’s now a striking focal point: floor-to-ceiling lava rock seven feet wide, with a raised hearth and monkeypod mantel. Mounted front and center is a large painting by Maui artist Lisa Kasprzycki, depicting lava, taro plants, the ocean, and the symbolic arrival of man. “I think of it as depicting the birth of the Hawaiian Islands,” says Ann. “That painting is one of my favorites, and I didn’t have a wall for it. I redesigned the fireplace especially for it.” Between the kitchen and living room, in what had been an open space lined with columns, Ann installed a divider wall that creates a more intimate dining area. “I had the wall built to accommodate a Chinese temple table,” she says. “It also balances the fireplace,” and the deep red of the wall is meant to suggest the colors of the feather capes worn by ali‘i (Hawaiian royalty). The glass-and-teak front doors are another island-inspired touch. They’re inset with palm leaves hand-carved in Indonesia in a pattern Ann designed “to let in just the right amount of light, and bring the outdoors inside.” The connection between indoors and out is essential to the home’s sense of place, Ann says. “My friend and fellow gardener Kate Duhamel worked
Opposite, from left: The entry serves as a gallery, too, with a stone carving by Hoaka Delos Reyes, a whale sculpture (recessed in rear wall) by Randy Puckett, a painting by Lynne Smith, planters from Duck Soup, and on the left wall, a kapa hanging by Denby Freeland-Cole. A lantern from HUE Interiors sits beside plantings by Kate Duhamel. Photo at right: Seen from the pasture below, the home is luminous at twilight. Its most unusual feature is a two-story tower. Allen’s home office occupies the top floor— which also serves as a fun place for visiting grandchildren to sleep.
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Above: Pamela Hayes’s banana painting is right at home in the kitchen, adding a splash of color to custom teak cabinet doors that replaced the kitchen’s original whitewashed fronts. Appliances are by Dacor and Sub-Zero. Opposite: Another large painting by Lisa Kasprzycki dominates the dining-room wall. Table and chairs are by Stickley. Right: Protea blossoms bask in the glow of candles on the dining-room table.
with me to turn what had been a bare landscape into a tropical garden, using native plants wherever possible, so that from every window, the gardens or the land surrounding the house became a visual part of the home’s interior.” Though the house had ample space, “with only two bedrooms, there wasn’t room for visiting family,” says Ann. The second phase of the remodel added a new master suite, and, by placing it on the opposite end of the house, established separate wings, one for Ann and Allen, the other for guests. The new wing also contains a laundry room and a vestibule that accommodates Ann’s office. “We interviewed many contractors, but most were hesitant to take on the project because of difficulties with the building site [deep gulches on either side of the property]. We finally found Mark Minney, the one person who was able to envision a solution. It took a lot of earth moving and hauling to accomplish that wing.” The original laundry room became a butler’s pantry, outfitted with a second dishwasher, wine cellar, and cold-storage drawers. The vestibule boasts a mango-wood desk that Ann designed and Mark constructed with cabinets that “can be completely closed up to hide my mess,” she says. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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Opposite, clockwise from top: An heirloom kapa hangs in the master suite above the headboard Mark Minney carved from found monkeypod. An antique Chinese cabinet from Brown-Kobayashi, daybed and side chair from HUE Interiors, armchair and ottoman from Moore Interiors create the suite’s cozy seating area. The painting is by Phil Sabado, the drum from Duck Soup. Vintage wicker furniture invites you to linger on the lānai and enjoy the view. From the vestibule, Ann’s legacy Hawaiian quilt peeks out; the mango-wood table is from Duck Soup. Above: The master bath sports pendant lamps from Read Lighting.
A sliding barn door leads into the new master suite. Made of bamboo and teak, it’s an arresting design element that signals a distinctively personal space. Enter, and you come face to face with Ann’s prized possession: a legacy quilt handmade in Hāna in 1960. The suite’s pièce de résistance is an earlytwentieth-century kapa (barkcloth) mounted behind the bed like textured wallpaper. Ann purchased the thirteen-by-sixteen-foot piece from a woman who sells Hawai‘i-made items at the Queen Ka‘ahumanu Shopping Center in Kahului. “She’d told me she had a large piece of cloth, but at the time I didn’t have anywhere to put it,” Ann recalls. “When we added the master bedroom, I went back to her and asked if she still had it. The next week, we laid it out right in the middle of the mall so I could examine it. It was perfect.” Ann calls the master bath her “water room.” It’s easy to see why: She had Mark transform a walk-in shower and a soaking tub into a single nine-by-nine space that is also accessible from the outdoor spa. Allen and Ann have developed a deep affinity for country living. In fact, to ensure that their panoramic view remains unobMaui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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FEATURED PROPERTY
MLS 387972
$1,699,000
Come home to the 808! This private, jungle paradise is on 5 level acres. The 5 Bed/3 Bath home offers ocean, Haleakala and forest views. Eucalyptus flooring and large windows showcase the views. The 2 story, 2 Bed/1 Bath ohana with its open floor plan and vaulted ceilings was built in 2008. It also has 900 sf enclosed storage or workshop downstairs. Susi has lived on Maui for 20 years. She has resided in Pukalani, Pa‘ia, Ha‘iku, Kula, Makawao—is quite familiar with the Upcountry lifestyle as well as South Maui & West Maui properties. She works diligently for her clients to get the best deal possible. Give Susi a call and get to know her.
FEATURED AGENT
Susan Anton Lic # RS-75322 808.283-0460 susi@equityonemaui.com
LYNETTE PENDERGAST BIC Lic. # RB-21145 | Equity One Real Estate, Inc. | LivingMaui.com 808.633.3534 | Lynette@equityonemaui.com
A cushioned bay-window seat, Hawaiianthemed quilt, and a festive acrylic by Maui Hands artist Alfred Furtado create a welcoming second guest bedroom. The Norfolk-pine lamp is by woodturner Jim Meekhof.
structed, they purchased the land just below their property when it became available. “We plan to keep it as raw land,” Ann says. “We have picnic tables, a grill, and a fire pit down there for outside get-togethers. “This house is not only perfect for the two of us, it has become a delightful gathering place for our family and friends,” she adds. “And we couldn’t imagine a better setting in which to display our treasured Hawaiian art collection.”
RESOURCES Brown-Kobayashi (antique Chinese furnishings) 38 N. Market Street, Wailuku 808-242-0804 Duck Soup Enterprises (teak front-door panels) 2000 Mokulele Highway, Pu‘unēnē 808-871-7875 | DuckSoupMaui.com Mark Minney Construction, LLC (contractor, second-phase remodel) 4730 Kula Highway, Kula 808-876-1765 Pohaku Masonry (fireplace, exterior stonework) 1135 Makawao Avenue, Makawao 808-876-1389
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60 Fabulous Gift Ideas
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Loving this wrapping paper? Visit Maui's very own, wrappily.com to buy!
LETTER FROM THE MAYOR
On behalf of the people of Maui County, it’s my pleasure to take part in featuring our small businesses in Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine’s “Holiday Gift Guide.” This is a great opportunity to support our family, friends and neighbors who provide Made In Maui County products to delight consumers, especially during this holiday season. Small businesses are the backbone of our economy, providing jobs, goods, and services throughout our community. Many businesses support our community by contributing generously to nonprofit groups, schools, churches and charitable causes. Our community is strong because we work together and rely on each other in good times and in bad. This year, we are employing virtual alternatives to the annual Made In Maui County Festival. This Holiday Gift Guide is an example of reaching out to consumers and giving them the opportunity to support local and buy local. The Guide features a variety of products including food and snacks such as Kitch’n Cook’d potato chips; music, fresh produce including Maui Gold pineapple, art, crafts, jewelry, fashions, gifts and collectibles. I want to thank the hardworking staff at the Maui Chamber of Commerce and the County’s Office of Economic Development for continuing to be creative and resilient during these difficult times. Their work helps support and strengthen our diverse economic base. Mahalo to all the vendors who are adapting to changing times to make their products available to the public. This year, I ask everyone to enjoy the holidays a little differently as we celebrate the Season. By working together as an ’ohana, by observing public health and safety measures, we will succeed in limiting the spread of COVID-19. Lastly, my wife Joycelyn and I would like to extend our heartfelt wishes to you and yours for a happy, safe and healthy Holiday Season. As we celebrate the holidays with our ’ohana, we are thankful for the blessings and appreciate this special time for families to reconnect, be grateful and share their love for one another. Together, we can have a safe and healthy community and emerge Maui County Strong into the New Year. Happy Holidays, MICHAEL P. VICTORINO Mayor, County of Maui
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SIP & SHOP AT THE WINERY
RELAX WITH A GLASS & CHECK OFF YOUR HOLIDAY LIST
We A R E PROS AT pac kING and shipPING! O NL INE SH OPPING: m au iwine .co m U S E C ODE: GIFTMAUIWINE2 020 FO R 15 % O FF 808.8 8.6058 14815 PIILANI HWY, KULA, HI, 6 0 SOME RESTRICTIONS APPLY TO 15% ISCOUNT. CALL OR ETAILS
MADE IN MAUI COUNTY
Nagasako Designs
Inspired by Hawai’i’s beauty, Nagasako Designs specializes in creating pieces out of real flowers and leaves. These Papakolea Petal earrings are made from green orchid petals hand-picked and glassed in Lahaina, as well as labradorite and peridot gemstones that are reminiscent of the olivine found in Hawaiian beach sand. $45, nagasakodesigns.com IG @nagasakodesigns
Grandpa Joe’s Candy Company
A popular local favorite, this cotton candy is made with 100 percent organic sugar, natural pineapple flavor and color, and a light dusting of li hing powder. Check out the website for more than 40 amazing flavors! $6, grandpajoescandycompany.com IG @grandpajoescandycompany
Maui Potato Chip Factory
Since 1956 The Maui Potato Chip Factory has been crafting our signature Maui Kitch’n Cook’d potato chips. These world-famous chips come in three sizes (one, four and nine ounces). Ask about our madeto-order gift baskets, prepackaged cases, tee-shirts and tote bags! 295 Lalo St. Kahului, HI 96732 (808) 877-3652 | mauipotatochips@yahoo.com
Bella Vita Apothecary
The perfect gift of aloha! This made-in-Maui Candle Box Trio includes a three-ounce hand-poured soy wax candle and two rich organic coconut milk artisinal soaps. Choose from six unique aromas, including hibiscus breeze, pineapple spice and coconut bliss. $20, bvapothecary.com | IG @bvapothecary
A Maui Day
Designer and Maui native Severina hand-prints all her own fabrics on 100 percent brushed cotton canvas, and creates all manner of handbags inspired by the Maui lifestyle. Your very own wearable art and aloha-to-go! $32, amauiday.com IG/FB @amauiday
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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Artful Scents
The Pikake + Coconut Milk Handmade Luxury Candle melds pineapple and orange top notes with ripe mango, coconut milk, sugar, a touch of pikake and salt. Each 12-ounce candle burns for more than 100 hours. $50, artfulscents.com IG @artfulscents
Colors of Joy
Vibrant and bold, this necklace is made using finely-cut tagua nuts, a.k.a. “vegetable ivory,” which grow in the rainforests of South America. Add some fun and drama to any outfit with this unique accessory. $82, colorsofjoyinmaui.com
Pono Visions
Fine art prints from award-winning photographer Cody Roberts. Explore and shop his online gallery of incredible landscapes from Hawai’i. Every piece is handcrafted using the finest archival printing methods and materials available. Worldwide shipping. ponovisions.com | IG @pono.visions
HI Spice
The HI Spice Hot Box features four of our hottest sauces made from locally-sourced ingredients. All our products are inspired, grown and crafted on Maui. Free shipping on all US orders! $48, HIspice.com FB @HIspicemaui
Malia and Company Apparel
Designed and hand-printed on Maui, these supersoft tees are perfect for everyone. Made with 100 percent ring-spun cotton for optimal comfort. $25 (adults), $20 (keiki) maliaandcompany.com, IG @maliaandcoapparel Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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MADE IN MAUI COUNTY
Ocean Jazz Jewelry
This unique collection of jewelry reflects the beauty of the land and sea — mixed with little hints of bling! The ‘Opihi Necklace features an 18-inch 14-karat gold-filled chain and pendant with a mini false ‘opihi seashell. $55, oceanjazzmaui.com IG @oceanjazzmaui
Maui Gold Pineapple Company
Have Maui-grown fresh pineapples delivered straight to your door! Delicious and sweet, these golden treats are brought to you by skilled local farmers. $40 (1-pack), $50 (2-pack), $80 (7-pack), pineapplemaui.com IG @mauigoldpineapple
808 Clothing
Established in 2006, this family-owned brand features art by local Maui artists, offering unique designs on hats and tee-shirts that reflect Maui’s lifestyle. $22-$30, 808clothing.com IG @808clothingmaui
‘Alohi Images Maui
Now, more than ever, receiving a hand-written note is priceless, and these photo cards are the perfect canvas for a heartfelt message. From the graceful ‘ōhi‘a lehua to the vibrant plumeria, from “Mahalo” to “Mele Kalikamaka,” these distinctive cards reflect artist Shelley Pellegrino’s Hawaiian heritage and love for her island home. Starting at $3.50, alohiimages. com | IG/FB @alohiimagesmaui
‘Alohi Maui
Get glowing with this island-crafted skincare line made with powerful Hawaiian wholeplant organic ingredients and waste-free reusable packaging. ‘Alohi Rainwater Essence contains probiotics and hyaluronic acid to optimize hydration and promote collagen production. ‘Alohi Golden Oil nourishes skin while counteracting environmental damage. Gift sets from $28, alohimaui.com | IG @alohimaui
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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Haleakala Creamery Caramel Trio
Haleakala Creamery crafts their caramel in traditional cajeta style, a process which creates a confection of thickened syrup reminiscent of dulce de leche. This custom gift box features three flavors of goat’s milk caramel sauce: Hawaiian vanilla, sea salt and original. Drizzle it over fresh fruit, stir it into your coffee or enjoy a scoop straight from the jar! $24, haleakalacreamery.com | IG @haleakalacreamery
Exfolicare
Cool Blue Maui
Perfect for girls of all ages, this Holo Holo dress is our top-selling style. The Hug a Rainbow pattern features hibsicus and heliconia flowers on a black background, and is made from soft, silky swimsuit material for fast drying and extra comfort. $30$36 keiki, $45 adult, coolbluemaui.com IG @baby_blue_cool_blue_maui FB @BabyBlueMaui
This small family business strives to produce the highest quality skincare items at afforable prices, working in small batches using locally-sourced oils and ingredients. Items include exfoliating loofah soaps, body creams, sugar scrubs and more. exfolicare.com | FB @exfolicare
Kūlua
Āina-minded, conscious clothing, accessories and home goods for the modern Hawaiian lifestyle. All items are made on Maui at the Kūlua Studio Shop in historic Makawao Town. Prices vary. kuluamaui.com | IG @kuluamaui
A.M.I.T.Y. Designs
Handmade in Maui, these bags are inspired by urban culture, street art, fashion, hip-hop, aloha print and sunsets. Ladies love bags, and a little pop of aloha goes a long way! $20-$85, amitymasondesigns.com IG @amitymasondesigns
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MADE IN MAUI COUNTY
Kama Lei Design
Rendered in sterling silver, the Waves of Maui collection captures the natural beauty of the ocean, an inspiring symbol of strength and enduring constancy, surrounded by the circle of infinity. Each piece is engraved with the name of one of Maui’s many special places — Ho’okipa, Makena, Ma’alaea and, shown here, the Lahaina pendant. $129, kamaleidesign.com
Matsumoto Studio
Sisters Jen and Jes were born and raised on the island of Maui and draw inspiration from the beauty of Hawai‘i when creating their products. $10 Aloha Mask Card Set; $6 Aloha Sticker Sheet, matsumotostudio.com | IG @matsumotostudio
Kula Crafts and Flowers
Locally grown, locally made — you’ll find all manner handcrafted wood pieces at Kula Crafts and Flowers, including all sizes of bowls, plates, poi pounders, cutting boards and even beer taps. Each piece is created from found wood such as koa, milo, avocado, magnolia, monkey pod and more. $285, large Norfolk Pine bowl, kulacrafts.square.site | FB @kulacrafts
Nā Wai ‘Ehā
“Lovely Sunrise” is the new album from Nā Wai ‘Ehā which spotlights the timely classics of Maui. “Lovely Sunrise” includes 12 songs, featuring “He’s the Only Reason I Live,” a track that can only be found on the CD and which reminds the artists of where and who to thank for their talent. Enjoy, as the men of Nā Wai ‘Ehā take you back in time with their vocal arrangements of new heights. $20, nawaiehamusic.com, IG/FB @nawaiehamusic
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Te Hotu Mana Creations
Naupaka Kahakai flowers are commonly found across the Hawaiian shores. They are tiny and barely noticeable, but are very distincitve becasuse of their half bloom. These Naupaka flower earrings have been adorned with handpicked, lustrous Tahitian pearls. $145 sterling silver, $165 yellow gold vermeil tehotumana.com IG @tehotumanacreations etsyshop.com/shop/tehotumana
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Lilinoe Handbags
Blue Hawai‘i Jewelry
Their jewelry line is designed to bring the magic of Maui to your mind and the peace of the ocean to your soul. Specializing in pearls, precious and semiprecious gemstones, sterling silver, 14-karat gold, 14-karat gold filled and leather jewelry. bluehawaiijewelry.com | FB @BlueHawaiiJewelry
Handmade clutch purses and evening bags from Lilinoe Handbags use vintage handprinted in Hawai‘i, Alfred Shaheen fabric. These original, wearable works of art are numbered and photographed to ensure authenticity. With fine craftsmanship and attention to detail, these are products of unparalleled distinction. $45 clutch, Etsy.com/shop/LilinoeHandbags | IG@lilinoehandbags
MauiGrown Coffee
Grown in Kā’anapali, roasted in Lahaina and shipped directly to you, this trio of holiday coffees is a crowd pleaser. The set includes Yule Fuel, Maui Christmas and Jingle Beans blends, as well as a Christmas card for the ultimate aloha. $55, mauigrowncoffee.com FB @MauiGrownCoffee
Sabado Art Hawai‘i
Created and designed from original paintings by renowned artist Phil Sabado, these beautiful products include carpets, table runners, fine art prints and more. Perpetuating and promoting Hawaiian-style living and culture. sabadoarthawaii.com IG @sabadoarthawaii
Maui Olive Company & Jamie’s Jams
Produced and cultivated on Maui, this fresh olive oil is milled within 24 hours of harvest. Jamie’s Liliko‘i Butter boasts its deep and satisfying flavor from locally sourced liliko‘i. Both are some of the island’s finest culinary treats. $10-$30, Extra Virgin Olive Oil; $12, Jamie’s Jams Liliko‘i butter (1/2 pint) mauiolive.com
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MADE IN MAUI COUNTY
Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine Shop
Our unique, high-quality merchandise is made right here on Maui. The Love of Maui foam trucker hat has a snapback for universal sizing and comes in five colors, and the jumbo canvas tote by Q-Tees is fun and durable and features all the islands in Maui county. Look closely and you might also see some local wildlife! $15 hat, $20 tote, mauimagazine.net/shop IG @mauimag | FB @MauiMagazine
Kealopiko
Light as sea mist, the ‘Ehukai Tunic is made of thin, soft pareu fabric and is perfect for beating the Polynesian heat. This one-size-fits-most garment can be worn as a dress or a tunic, and can be shortened up with a side knot. Made in Hawai’i with 100 percent cotton fabric and āina-friendly dyes and inks. $65, kealopiko.com | IG/FB @kealopiko
Treehouse Designs
Locally made on Maui’s north shore, all of our modern fabric bags and smallbatch leather goods are thoughtfully designed and carefully crafted. Designer Shannon Peck’s recipe is simple: Quality materials + honest work = a piece to be treasured. $135/$155, Mimi/Mamo Bag treehousemade.com IG @Treehouse_Designs
Sailbags Maui
At Sailbags Maui, our mission is to save kiteboarding sails from ending up in our landfills by up-cycling them into fun, one-of-a-kind tote bags and accessories. The nylon properties of kites make them waterfriendly, lightweight and durable. From the ocean to your shoulder, stay well and “sail” on! $38, sailbagsmaui.com FB @SailbagsMaui808 IG @Sailbags_Maui
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Kuleana CBD Massage Oil
Maui-based Kuleana® offers clean CBD beauty products made from hemp plants sustainably farmed on Maui. The Soothe CBD massage oil is perfect for soothing sore muscles and offers the highest concentration of CBD per ounce. $22 (10ml rollerball), $195 (4 oz) kuleanacbd.com IG @kuleanabeauty
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Sparrow Seas
The Heart in the Hawaiian Islands Jewelry Collection is crafted in Kīhei, Maui, and highlights the uniqueness of each Hawaiian island shape. All pieces are handmade and are available in 14-karat gold-filled or sterling silver. You can also customize each piece to the perfect length with no extra charge! Free shipping. $125 Dainty Hawaiian Island Necklace, $150 Hawaiian Island Bangle, $140 Hawaiian Island Climber Earrings sparrowseas.com | IG @sparrowseas
Liquid Sunshine Jewelry
The colors of the Hawaiian rainforest and surrounding Pacific Ocean influence and inspire these one-ofa-kind pieces, which are made with top-quality materials, fine gemstones and handpicked shells. The Hawaiian Sunrise Necklace is crafted with watermelon tourmaline, gold-faceted pyrite, fragrant sandalwood and a 14-karat gold chain and extender — classy yet boho-chic! $175, liquidsunshinejewelry.com IG @ liquidsunshinejewels
Sassy Saks
These unique handmade purses, totes and accessories will carry you through life in style. Constructed of medium-weight fabric with sturdy straps and a wipeable water-resistant lining, these bags can tote anything from kid’s gear to beach toys to groceries and more. They also have two pockets to stash your keys, wallet and phone! $115, sassysaks.com IG @sassysaks1
Maui Cookie Lab
Our handcrafted shortbread cookies are each topped with a locally-grown edible flower! Flavored with liliko‘i glaze, these make the perfect locally-inspired gift! $24, mauicookielab.com | IG @maui_cookie_lab | FB @MauiCookieLab
Love the Beach Maui
This unique swimwear and clothing company offers custom sizing, with products ranging from skimpy to full coverage. We have a variety of beautiful and fun fabrics to choose from. This bikini is made with our signature braids for added design detail. $116-$136 lovethebeachmaui.com IG @lovethebeachmaui
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MADE IN MAUI COUNTY
Hawaii’s Heritage Jewelers
Handcrafting authentic Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry for more than 45 years. Create your custom heirloom piece that will last your family generations. hawaiisheritagejewelers.com | IG @hawaiisheritagejewelers | (808) 762-2510
Snoops Gourmet
Snoops Gourmet is a Maui-sourced and manufactured all-natural Venison-based dog treat company. These prime-cut Maui Venison Jerky treats are handmade with quality human-grade ingredients. $18, snoopsgourmet.com | IG @snoopsgourmet
Kapahikaua
Kapahikaua —”Kapa” — took an interest in woodworking watching his grandfather turn ‘umeke bowls. Now he creates one-of-a-kind vessels, unique herilooms to be cherished for a lifetime. This 20-inch tall calabash is inlayed with koa pewa and will warm any home. Made with aloha on the island of Maui. $5800, www.kapahikaua.com FB @Kapahikua
Maui Manjookies
Locally-born Jannelle Fukuoka put a spin on the traditional Japanese manju — a baked treat with a bread-like bun and sweet bean filling — and created Maui Manjookies. This combination cookiemanju-pie is filled with a mixture of fresh, seasonal fruit fillings and is made with 100 percent real butter. Flavors include liliko‘i pineapple, peanut butter, cornflake and cranberry guava. $8.50/bag, mauimanjookies.net IG @mauimanjookies808
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Maui Coffee Roasters Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast 100 percent Hawaiian coffee from the finest estates in Maui and Kona, as well as our blends, in our eco-friendly, small-batch roaster. Taste the flavors of Hawai’i in every freshly-brewed cup. $15.25, mauicoffeeroasters.com IG/FB @mauicoffeeroasters
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Maui Ku‘ia Chocolate
Kumu Farms
This first generation, independent farm operates on Moloka‘i and Maui, and produces a variety of conventionally grown and certified organic produce. They ship gift boxes of fresh papaya and pineapple nationwide. Their GMO-free Strawberry SunRise papaya and extra-sweet Maui Gold pineapple are the perfect way to add a taste of Hawai’i to your home. One-time orders are available online, or subscribe and save 10 percent! $60, organic papaya; $79.50, pineapple Kumufarms.com | IG/FB @kumufarms
Sandee Sheets
These multipurpose sheets are great for the beach, park, and home. They have corner pockets to fill with sand and cord loops to secure them with stakes. No two are alike and each is uniquely dyed. Each sheet comes with a carrying bag, shovel, and stakes. $65 FB @sandeesheets | IG @sandee_sheets_maui
This Made in Maui holiday collection of farm-to-bar chocolate includes everything you’ll need to celebrate this season with your ‘ohana, from chocolate gift towers adorned with ribbons to delicious stocking-stuffers to baking chocolate and signature recipe cards. There’s something for everyone on your list. mauichocolate.com | IG @mauichocolate
Hula Cookies
Established in 1999 on the island of Maui, this familyowned business has become legendary across the world for providing customers with the true tastes of Hawai’i. Come in for a visit or have delicious cookies delievered straight to your door. Fun flavors include pineapple ginger macadamia nut, honey papaya oatmeal and kona coffee chocolate chip. hulacookies.com FB @hulacookiesandicecream
Maui Bee Farm
Maui Bee Farm harvests local Raw Maui Honey from our family-owned, treatment-free honeybee colonies. Rich and buttery, Raw Maui Honey is harvested from countless local nectar sources, including kiawe, citrus and Christmas Berry trees. Free of chemicals and antiobiotics, our microbatch bottling creates a hive-to-table product. $30 (44 oz), mauibeefarm.com
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MADE IN MAUI COUNTY
Kahalawai Cookies Maui Your keiki’s new favorite pants! Made entirely on Maui by artfully and playfully upcycling locally-sourced tee-shirts in our solar-powered studio, these ‘Opihi Picker pants are made of 100 percent cotton, and every pair is unique. $39, cookiesmaui.com etsy.com/shop/COOKIESmaui IG @cookiesmaui
Maui Woodys
We handcraft the frames for our sunglasses here on Maui using island woods, and incorporate high-quality, high-definition polarized lenses with 100-percent UV protection. We offer more than 20 styles and they come with an extended warranty. Custom and prescription options are available. Kama‘āina discounts. $264-$394, mauiwoodys.com
Sigal Jewels
Parsons School of Design graduate Sigal Choucroun creates this handmade luxury jewelry line in her studio in Hana, Maui. The Superstar Necklace is crafted with eight large Tahitian pearls, one large Australian South Sea pearl and gold-filled beads threaded on an 18-23” braided gold silk thread. $995, sigal-jewels.myshopify.com IG @sigaljewels
Joshua Kahula and Pi’ilani Arias make up this Maui-based duo. Their self-titled album consists of traditional and original Hawaiian/contemporary compositions that blend the past with the present, bringing their kupuna and the collective experiences of the Hakumele into the here and now through lyrics, voice and music. $20, kahalawaimusic.com IG/FB @kahalawaimusic
Hannie Joy & Co
Hannie Joy & Co is committed to wellness through handmade lifestyle products. They offer diverse creations including small-batch personal care products and other handcrafted items. Pitty Paste all-natural deodorant comes in an eco-friendly push-up tube and is available in lavender/tee tree, cedarwood, bergamot/lime and unscented. $10, hanniejoyandco.com
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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Aloha Shack
The Hapa Hawaiian Puka Necklace with pink vintage sea glass is a feminine and elegant take on the classic Hawaiian puka necklace. Handmade on ‘Opihi Maui Maui with surf-polished Based in upcountry Kula, ‘Opihi Maui is named for a Hawaiian limpet — a pastel puka shells seafood delicacy symbolic of steadfastness, simplicity, nourishment and and rare vintage a strong foundation. We aspire to perpetuate our Hawaiian culture, values sea glass in vibrant and language, and derive inspiration from our ancestors and beautiful carnation pink, the land. Enjoy our handcrafted decorative wooden products for generations necklace is adjustable to come. $18 sign, opihimaui.com up to 24 inches. $179, thealohashackmaui.com IG @thealohashackmaui
Amy Hanaiali’I Gilliom
“Kalawai’anui” is the latest album from six-time Grammy nominee and eighteen-time Nā Hōkū Hanohano award winner Amy Hanaiali’i, the highest-selling Hawaiian female vocalist of all time. The self-produced album pays homage to her ancestors and her deep connection to past Hawaiian generations as she reflects on her lineage. $17, amyhawaii.com FB @amyhanaialii | IG @hanaialii
Paradise Now Paradise Now is a vintage-inspired company created in 2012 by Jaclynn Sabado-Eitel. This Days of Aloha original art is printed on birchwood and measures 12” x 12”. $89, shopparadisenow.com | IG @paradisenowhawaii
Yasha Jewels
Yasha, aka Dr. Joie Taylor, earned her Ph.D. in environmental engineering but decided to follow her passion for jewelry design. She uses her engineering CAD design experience with Matrix for precision, 3D printing and casting, and artistically engineers the Earth’s treasure into hand-crafted wearable art. These Sunset Mosaic sterling silver earrings feature sunstone, peridot and turquoise gemstones. $725, yashajewels.com IG/FB @yashajewels Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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The 7th Annual H A W A I I A N
A I R L I N E S
MA D E I N MA U I C O U N T Y F E S T I V A L
VIRTUAL EVENT
80+ MADE IN MAUI COUNTY VENDORS GREAT GIFTS FOR THIS HOLIDAY SEASON!
SATURDAY & SUNDAY NOVEMBER 7 & 8, 2020 8 AM TO 5 PM HST FOLLOW US: @MADEINMAUICOUNTYFESTIVAL
SUPPORTED BY:
WWW.MADEINMAUICOUNTYFESTIVAL.COM MAHALO TO OUR SPONSORS: HAWAIIAN AIRLINES, PASHA HAWAII, H. HAWAII MEDIA, KAOI RADIO GROUP, QUEEN KA'AHUMANU CENTER, PACIFIC MEDIA GROUP, MAUI NO KA OI MAGAZINE, HAWAII MAGAZINE, MAUI OCEAN TREASURES AT MAUI OCEAN CENTER, ALOHA PACIFIC FEDERAL CREDIT UNION
Stone Tile | Porcelain Tile | Granite & Stone Slabs | Quartz Slabs | Glass Tile Custom Fabrication & Installation In Stock & Special Order Cabinetr y 25 Kahului Beach Road, Kahului 808.871.7595 (tel) | 808.871.7059 (fax) www.CeramicTilePlus.com Contractor’s License #C32353
ADVERTORIAL
Shop Maui
Alpha Maui
Studio22K
CraeVita
Island lifestyle jewelry handcrafted with high-quality gemstones and metals. We create jewelry that will take you from the beach to a night out on the town with a focus on moonstone, labradorite and Tahitian pearls. CraeVita.com IG @CraeVita.Maui
Hawaii’s Heritage Jewelers
Located in the small beach town of Pa‘ia, Studio22k is a working studio of Sherri Dhyan and jewelry arts gallery of likeminded goldsmiths all specializing in hand fabrication of high karat gold who are dedicated to ancient gold techniques developed by ancient craftsmen of 3,000 years ago. Visit in person or online. studio22k.com IG/FB @studio22k
Handcrafting authentic Hawaiian Heirloom Jewelry for more than 45 years. Create your custom heirloom piece that will last your family generations. hawaiisheritagejewelers.com IG @hawaiisheritagejewelers | (808) 762-2510
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Alpha Maui is a local clothing brand that features original designs, artwork and photography on products such as caps, leggings, board shorts, sunglasses and watches. We use all-natural materials and encourage adventure and exploration of the outdoors. Be strong, be humble and your possibilities are endless. 3494 Old Haleakalā Hwy, Makawao, (808) 633-2328, alphamaui808.com
Luxurious Hawaiian Beach Towels
EHA Culture combines comfort and versatility in their best-selling Turkish cotton beach towels made with 100 percent original artwork. EHA Culture specializes in creating contemporary Hawaiian art with aloha in every piece. ehaculture.com | IG @eha.culture
HUE
210EAlamaha INTERIOR D S I G NStreet, + DKahului ECOR 808.873.6910 112 Wailea Ike Dr, Wailea 808-879-6910 www.MauiHue.com
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Collection by HUE
HOME LIFESTYLE DESIGN
Holiday Test Kitchen STORY BY BECKY SPEERE
On a late autumn day, I found myself leafing through my travel journal from December 2019. It contained the daily entries of how and with whom we celebrated the holiday season in Guadalajara, Mexico. Amongst my notes was a handwritten recipe for pan de elote, a gift from Nancy Sandoval, pastry chef at NH Collection Hotel in the Centro Historico district. As my eyes slid down the ingredients list, I could almost taste the moist, buttery corn cake. This treasured food memory sparked my curiosity: What are Maui
chefs’ favorite holiday dishes? Our usual Holiday Test Kitchen brings MNKO’s staff together under the guidance of a local chef to create a feast, but social distancing would be impossible in 2020. So we opted, instead, to pile on the goodies with holiday dishes from not one, or two, but four chefs! Mahalo to Eric Faivre, executive chef of Montage Kapalua Bay; Marc McDowell, chef-owner of SixtyTwo MarcKet; Keith Apana, chef-owner of Only Ono BBQ; and Jessica Kapoor, chef-owner of Sweet On Maui. Grab your journal.
]}]}]}]}]} Baeckeoffe à la Maman Françoise
Servings: 8 | Prep time: 45 minutes | Marinate: 24 hours | Assembly: 20 minutes | Baking: 3 hours
Remove the unleavened dough sealing the terrine lid, and steam rises to the occasion, filling the room with savory aromas.
A
n aspiring sourdough-bread baker and jam maker, Executive Chef Eric Faivre says, “My mother, Françoise, makes the best baeckeoffe [terrine] in the entire region of Grand Est.” Hearing this, I know the recipe needs to be part of our holiday test-kitchen lineup. Eric adds that baeckeoffe also translates as “the baker’s oven.” French housewives of days gone by brought the ceramic vessel— chockfull of marinated meats and vegetables—to place in the sole oven in the heart of the village before heading off to the fields to work. Baeckeoffe is also traditional to the Alsatian pottery created near Eric’s hometown of Ribeauvillé. Although the region was once known for its pottery, only two towns continue the tradition: Soufflenheim and Betschdorf. Eric says, “Each piece is hand-painted and [the differences] in décor are what make the pottery so attractive!” He adds, “The thickness of the pottery, made from clay extracted from quarries at the nearby town of Haguenau, provides the perfect environment for long, slow, and gentle heat.” The final step in the dish, a flour-and-water seal, ensures maximum moisture retention. It can be prepared the night before Christmas and baked while you relax with the family, open presents, or rejuvenate while taking a walk—or if, as Eric remembers doing, you are in Alsace, bundled in warm clothing for long walks in the frozen vineyards. Bon appetit! Joyeuses fêtes! Happy holidays!
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1.2 lb. pork shoulder 1.2 lb. beef chuck roast 1.2 lb. lamb shoulder 2 pig’s feet, or 16 oz. skin-on pork belly 2 large leeks 1 large carrot 4½ lb. russet potatoes 1 large onion 4 garlic cloves 1 bay leaf
2 juniper berries 1½ c. Kula White Blend from MauiWine 1½ oz. kosher salt ¹∕₈ oz. black pepper, ground FOR THE DOUGH SEAL:
14 oz. all-purpose flour 9 oz. water
Cut the pork, beef and lamb into 2” cubes. Cut the pig’s feet in half. Cut the leeks lengthwise and then crosswise into 1” slices. Wash the leeks under running water to remove all sand and silt. Drain well. Peel the carrot and slice into ½” pieces. Cut garlic cloves in half. Combine the meats, wine, leeks, carrot, garlic, bay leaf, and juniper berries in a large bowl and toss well to mix. (The liquids and herbs will form the marinade.) Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. About 4 hours before serving, peel the potatoes and thinly slice crosswise. Peel the onion and slice crosswise into thick (½” wide) pieces. Season the potatoes and onions with salt and pepper. ASSEMBLY
Preheat oven to 350°. In a ceramic baeckeoffe or heavy-sided pot (Le Creuset will work), layer ¹∕₃ of the potato mixture. Place half the meat atop the potatoes, spreading evenly. Top the meat with ¹∕₃ of the potato mixture, distributing evenly, then pour the marinade of meat juices and wine, and top with the rest of the meat, spreading to the edges of the terrine. Top evenly with the final layer of potato mixture. Prepare the dough seal by mixing the flour and water until it is homogenous. Roll the dough into a thick rope and encircle the rim of the baking dish. Place the lid on the baeckeoffe, creating a tight seal, and bake in preheated oven. Enjoy!
Dining Feature
Chef Eric Faivre happily spoons up a serving of baekeoffe. This comforting, special-occasion Alsatian dish from his childhood is chockfull of meats and fresh, locally sourced vegetables. Photos by Mieko Horikoshi
Baeckeoffe à la Maman Françoise Montage at Kapalua Bay
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W Season the meat liberally.
Rest tenderloin on rack.
hen Chef Marc McDowell opened his namesake brick-and-mortar restaurant in Wailuku in late December 2019, little did he know that COVID-19 would be his greatest challenge. As chef at some of Maui’s most reputable properties—including the Grand Wailea, Mākena Resort, Hali‘imaile General Store, and The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua—he had racked up a bevy of loyal followers. A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and, most recently, UH Maui College’s Master Gardener Program, Marc knows that understanding the soil, the planting, and the harvesting goes hand-in-hand with food preparation. He says, “I feel it’s imperative to use our local produce. It’s a better-tasting and fresher product, and [buying local] helps to sustain our hard-working farmers. We also want to connect with farmers to educate our community on what’s the best of the season and what we can do with what the ‘āina [land] gives us.” He adds, “The holidays are a very special time for me; I love to bring happiness to people through food. With these uncertain times, it’s even more important to focus on each meal, to make sure it’s properly seasoned and cooked perfectly, consistently. I [see it as] a gift we give our guests.” Marc shares, “Our holiday offerings will include a three- or four-course prix fixe menu. But, if you prefer, we can create a festive spread to enjoy in the comfort of your home with family and friends.” Marc’s Chateaubriand with Red Wine Cremini Mushroom Sauce is a classic dish, perfect for festive and elegant holiday dining. Herb-roasted potatoes and sugar-glazed baby carrots complete the main course, adding sweetness and crunch. Speaking of the holidays, check out SixtyTwo MarcKet-branded spices, jams, jellies, and logo wear. They’ll make great stocking stuffers and gifts, too!
Chateaubriand for Two Servings: 2
BEEF TENDERLOIN PREP
Coat with mustard rub.
Test for doneness.
Cut into thick slices for serving.
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1–1¼ lb. beef tenderloin, room temperature 2 Tbsp. olive oil kosher salt fresh-ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. clarified butter Herb-and-Mustard Rub (Recipe follows.)
Heat oven to 375° for convection, or 425° with a conventional oven. Rub meat with olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Heat a cast-iron pan or heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the clarified butter, and as soon as it starts shimmering, gently place the tenderloin in the pan. If you don’t hear a sizzling, remove the beef and heat the pan more. A good, crusty brown sear is important for the fond (caramelized brown bits at the bottom of the pan), which is needed for deglazing with wine. Sauté about 1–2 minutes on each side to attain a good sear. Remove to a cookie rack placed over a sheet pan to cool. Do not wash the pan! You will need this to make your sauce. WEB EXCLUSIVE: Find more Test Kitchen recipes and how-to videos at MauiMagazine.net/test-kitchen-2020. Photos by SixtyTwo MarcKet
HERB AND MUSTARD RUB
6 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ Tbsp. fresh rosemary, minced ½ Tbsp. thyme, minced
Mix all ingredients well and spread evenly over the seared and rested tenderloin. Place on a sheet pan and bake in preheated oven until a meat thermometer measures an internal temperature of 125° (for medium rare). Remove from oven and tent with foil. Let rest for 15 minutes. RED WINE CREMINI MUSHROOM SAUCE
1 Tbsp. clarified butter 1 Tbsp. shallots or onions, chopped 3 Tbsp. Cremini mushrooms 2–3 oz. red wine or port 6 oz. veal demi-glace or beef stock 1 sprig of fresh thyme 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Place the clarified butter in the pan the meat was seared in. Turn on medium high and add shallots and mushrooms. Sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the red wine and simmer until wine evaporates. Add the veal demi-glace and thyme, and reduce for 3–4 four minutes. Add the butter to the reduction, remove immediately from heat, and stir till combined. Keep warm.
Dining Feature
SixtyTwo MarcKet
Herb-and-MustardCrusted Chateaubriand
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Mama Apana’s Oyster Rolls
Servings: 50–60 2” rolls | Prep time: 5 hours for reconstituting dried oysters, plus 1–2 hours’ assembly with helping hands OYSTER PREP INGREDIENTS
FILLING
Left to right: Oyster rolls are ready for frying. After they’re browned on all sides, simmer them in their own juices before serving.
K
eith Apana laughs as he shares his stories about his inspired barbecue crawl through Texas, hitting towns with names such as Elgin for German sausages, and Lockhart for briskets smoked fourteen hours. He says, “Toni, my wife, knew that if we planned to call ourselves barbecue [specialists] here on Maui, we had to eat lots of Texas barbecue.” In 2016, they set out to sell Texas-style barbecue at Maui’s various Friday-night events, but someone had beaten them to the smoker. “No, sorry,” the organizer said. “We already got a barbecue food truck.” That’s when Keith dug deeper into his chef whites, remembering his sifu (kung fu instructor and mentor), Buck Sam Kong, and their many travels through Hong Kong and Mainland China. “He invited me on eating trips. It’s all we did and I’m able to draw on my [food memory bank] from my trips with him.” He adds, “My mother is Hakka Chinese, but was raised in Tahiti and was a business woman on Maui. Before she retired, she owned Miki’s at the Match, and her oyster rolls were the party favorite at all the family gatherings.”He also shares childhood memories of precious, long summers in Tahiti at his Chinese grandmother’s side, helping her prepare the family meals. Keith says, “The rest of my cousins would be playing outside while I was inside, cooking with her. I honestly enjoyed it more.” With these experiences in mind, Keith went back to the Fridaynight event organizers and said, “Chinese barbecue. That’s what I’ll make!” His Chinese roast duck and crispy-skin pork belly have left an indelible mark on my life. Maybe he’ll put the oyster rolls on his dim sum and den sum menu. 享受你的食物 Xiăngshòu nĭ de shíwù (Enjoy!)
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5 lb. ground pork 1 lb. fresh fishcake reconstituted and sautéed oyster (above) 2 pieces jung choy (preserved turnip ball), rinsed, soaked in water for 5 minutes, and minced) 8 sprigs green onion, green and white parts sliced into 2” pieces
6 sprigs green onion, finely chopped 1 extra-large egg 1 Tbsp. cornstarch 1 tsp. garlic powder ½ tsp. white pepper 2 Tbsp. chicken bouillon 2 Tbsp. oyster sauce 1 lb. thoroughly rinsed caul fat (lace fat used to encase the oyster filling to form a sausage) ¼ c. water GARNISH
3 sprigs green onion, cut into 2” slices 3 sprigs Chinese parsley (cilantro), chopped
OYSTER PREP Remove the oysters from the soaking liquid and rinse to remove any grit. Strain the soaking liquid through two layers of cheesecloth, reserving 1 cup. Heat vegetable oil in a medium saucepan till lightly smoking. Carefully add the oysters, stirring gently for 5 seconds. Add the crushed garlic cloves, sliced ginger, and 5 sprigs of sliced green onions, and stir-fry until fragrant and vegetables are wilted, approximately 7–8 minutes. Lower heat and add the reserved oyster water. Simmer on low for 1 hour, adding more water if necessary. Remove braised oysters from the pan and set aside to cool. Discard remaining ingredients. Once oysters are cool, chop to a rough mince. GROUND PORK–OYSTER FILLING In a large bowl, add the ground pork, fishcake, chopped oysters, chopped jung choy, egg, cornstarch, garlic powder, chicken bouillon, white pepper, the remaining 3 sprigs of sliced green onions and oyster sauce, and mix by hand. OYSTER ROLL AND CAUL WRAP Spread the caul fat on a clean work surface. Place 1½ Tbsp. of the filling on a 5” square of the caul fat and wrap like an eggroll, folding in the sides, then rolling to enclose. Trim off excess caul fat. Repeat with remaining filling and wrap. Heat wok to medium heat and add 1 tsp. vegetable oil, swirling to cover bottom. Add eight rolls and brown all sides, about 5 minutes. Set aside on a platter. Repeat. Once all the rolls are fried, return them to the wok with juices, add ¼ cup water and cover with lid. Reduce liquid by ½, about 7 minutes. Place rolls in a bowl and garnish with chopped green onions and Chinese parsley [cilantro].
COURTESY OF ONLY ONO BBQ
Slow-cooked green onions, ginger and garlic infuse the oysters, creating an ocean of flavor wrapped in a sausage.
8–10 pieces dried oyster (rinsed and soaked in hot water for 5 hours) 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 5 sprigs green onion, sliced into 2” pieces 10 garlic cloves, crushed 10 slices of unpeeled ginger
Dining Feature
Mama Apana’s Oyster Rolls Only Ono BBQ
WEB EXCLUSIVE: Find more Test Kitchen recipes and how-to videos at MauiMagazine.net/test-kitchen-2020. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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WEB EXCLUSIVE: Find more Test Kitchen recipes and how-to videos at MauiMagazine.net/test-kitchen-2020. Photo by Jessica Kapoor
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Dining Feature
Sweet on Maui
Chocolate Liliko‘i Caramel Tart
L
iliko‘i, a.k.a. passion fruit, is one of Hawai‘i’s gifts to tropicalfruit lovers the world over. What better way to showcase the fruit than by pairing it with some of the best chocolate grown on Maui? Sweet on Maui chef Jessica Kapoor says, “My first thought for a holiday potluck recipe was something indulgent and beautiful, something that is so special, you might eat it just once a year. I wanted a recipe that was not too difficult to make, but had a big ‘WOW!’ factor in flavor and presentation. Next, I thought about complementary flavors, seasonal and local ingredients, and chose fresh liliko‘i purée to brighten the rich chocolate ganache.”
As if that weren’t enough to keep fruity-chocolate lovers happy, she continues: “A layer of dark salted caramel for a bit of extra sweetness gives the overall flavor profile a little more depth.” I’m in dessert heaven already, and then she says, “To complement the creamy, rich fillings, hazelnuts and locally harvested mac nuts in the crust add a toasted crunchiness.” One of the best points she makes in sharing this recipe: “It can be made ahead [of time] and will keep for up to a week in the fridge.” Jessica has given us a very special holiday ending, indeed! Mahalo, Chef !
]}]}]}]}]} Chocolate Liliko‘i Caramel Tart
Yield: 1 9” round tart or 4x9” rectangular tart | Prep time: 1 hour, plus time for baking and cooling steps. | Servings: 12–16 CRUST
¼ c. hazelnuts, skins removed ¼ c. macadamia nuts ¼ c. sugar 1 c. all-purpose flour pinch of ‘alaea salt ½ c. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled 1 egg ½ tsp. vanilla
CARAMEL
²∕₃ c. sugar 1½ Tbsp. light corn syrup 3 Tbsp. water 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed, room temperature ½ c. heavy whipping cream, room temperature pinch of ‘alaea sea salt
LILIKO‘I GANACHE
4 oz. good-quality dark chocolate, 64% or higher (our preference: 65% Maui Ku‘ia Estate dark chocolate) 4 oz. heavy whipping cream 1½ oz. fresh liliko‘i purée 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
Preheat oven to 300°. Toast macadamia and hazelnuts 10–15 minutes until mac nuts turn golden. Cool completely. Reserve about 2 tablespoons of toasted nuts for garnish. CRUST Raise oven temperature to 350°. Place nuts and half the sugar into the food processor and pulse until ground. Add remaining sugar, flour and pinch of salt, and pulse until finely ground. Add chilled butter and pulse again until no large pieces of butter are visible. Add egg
and vanilla and pulse until mixture comes together. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently, making sure all ingredients are incorporated. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour. Roll out the crust to the size of your tart pan plus 1½” on all sides. Spray tart pan lightly with oil and transfer dough gently, tucking into corners and sides of the pan. Trim extra dough from the top edge of the pan by pressing and rolling with the rolling pin. Blind-bake the crust for 15 minutes by crumpling parchment paper (to soften it), placing the paper atop the crust and filling it with dried beans, uncooked rice, or pie weights. Remove parchment and weights and return to oven for 10–15 minutes, or until crust edges are golden brown. Remove from oven and cool completely. CARAMEL Add the sugar, corn syrup and water to a heavy-bottomed, mediumsized saucepan. Stir to combine and wash down sides with a wet pastry brush. Bring to a boil over medium heat (2–3 minutes), then raise heat to high and cook, stirring continually, until syrup turns a medium- to dark-amber color (4–6 minutes). Remove from heat and immediately add softened butter. Use caution, as mixture will bubble vigorously. Add cream and stir again. Return to the stove and cook to 242°. Remove pot from heat and cool 20–30 minutes. Pour into tart crust and chill for 20–30 minutes. Sprinkle with a pinch of ‘alaea salt. LILIKO‘I GANACHE Chop chocolate into small pieces and place into a metal bowl. Heat cream to boiling and pour over chocolate pieces. Let sit for 1 minute. Using a rubber spatula, stir the mixture in small circles, starting from the center, gradually moving outward until ganache is evenly mixed throughout. Add softened butter and stir until fully incorporated. Add liliko‘i purée, mixing well. Cool for 10–15 minutes. Pour ganache over the firm caramel. Tap pan lightly to spread the ganache, or use an offset spatula. Garnish with reserved nuts, edible flowers, or coconut flakes, and return to the refrigerator to chill for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Slice with a warmed knife blade. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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Mixology
HOT BUTTERED YUM Liliko‘i-Coconut Hot Buttered Rum Yield: 2 cocktails
STORY & PHOTO BY BECKY SPEERE
When my Las Vegas sister-in-law, Isabel, comes to Maui to visit, she gets into the island spirit with a rum and Coke. Nothing fancy, but it hits the spot on a hot summer’s day, when the bubbles and ice are especially welcoming. I finally gave in and tried one for the first time on her last visit. It was delightful! I created this rum holiday cocktail with her in mind: Liliko‘i-Coconut Hot Buttered Rum. Distilled on Maui, Hawaii Sea Spirits’ KULA Rum is made with freshsqueezed, organic sugarcane juices (the crop is grown on the farm surrounding the distillery in Ōma‘opio) and blended with fresh mineral waters sourced 3,000 feet deep off the coast of the Big Island of Hawai‘i. On a cold nineteen-degree morning in Las Vegas, when the rare snow flurry blows over the flat, dry desert, draping the land with a light veil of snow, Isabel will be dancing a spirited hula, inspired by Hot-Buttered Liliko‘i-Coconut Rum. Cheers to the holidays and New Year 2021!
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2 Tbsp. liliko‘i purée* warmed to 110–120 degrees 2 tsp. unsalted butter, room temperature 2 rounded tsp. crystallized Maui Raw (winter) Honey, or to taste 1 cup boiling water 2 shots KULA Coconut Rum** 2 shots KULA Dark Rum** orange peel for garnish
In heatproof glasses or your favorite mugs, divide butter and honey. Carefully add hot water to each and stir well to combine. Add 1 Tbsp. liliko‘i purée to each glass and divide the rums into each glass. Stir well, garnish with peel and enjoy! ¡Salud! * Find liliko‘i purée at PerfectPuree.com. (Or, if you live in Hawai‘i, ask your neighbors whether they have liliko‘i.) ** Find KULA Dark Rum and Coconut Rum at select liquor outlets on the mainland, or at KulaRum.com, info@OceanVodka.com, (808) 877-0009. If you are on Maui, you can substitute with Brum, Hawaii Sea Spirits’ limited-edition rum (6,000 bottles), made with rums sourced from around the world, aged four to eight years, then aged onsite another one to two years in repurposed whiskey barrels; sold only at the distillery.
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Dining Guide
B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020
WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L. $ ALALOA LOUNGE Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the menu, such as juicy huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International, D, $–$$ ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322 Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ THE BANYAN TREE 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096 Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her grandmother’s pancit palabok is a Filipino noodle dish full of shrimp and calamari, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annatto-ginger-garlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron, and garlic. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the eggs Benedict and mimosas for breakfast and prime select steaks with horseradish creme fraiche for dinner. Fresh pasta with Hāmākua mushrooms in walnut cream sauce? Yum! Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988 Choices include Sirens’ shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad, and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. American. L, D. $–$$
made with fresh ingredients. Specials daily. Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $
are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D. $–$$
CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$
GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621. All day! Breakfast for lunch, lunch for breakfast. Fluffy pancakes, omelettes, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kalua pork, salads, and seven burgers to choose from. And ocean views are free. International, B, Br, L. $
THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for a coffee and muffin . . . and you may end up staying for lunch—or later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.) Great service and fresh-baked goods, yogurtgranola parfaits, chia pudding, and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D. $ COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken, and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, R. $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$ FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N. $$–$$$$
CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. Wake up to oceanfront views as you sip a cuppa’ joe and dig into a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings and salad, or a hefty cheeseburger. For dinner, Aloha Fish and Fries. B, L, D. International. $-$$.
FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 115, Nāpili, 856-0225. Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night fried chicken special and Saturday Chef's Table. Eurasian. B,L,D. $-$$
CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711 Juices, smoothies, salads, soups, and açai bowls are all
FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology
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Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media sites before heading out.
HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself—and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $–$$ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year. Japanese. D, N. $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 You can start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffeecabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, R. $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N. $$
Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media before heading out. LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or justsqueezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat–Sun), L, D. $$ MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Café. B, L. $ MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., #115, Lahaina, 661-6216 Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap. GF banana-bread option. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and islandinspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R. $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Side listing. MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 Where can you find a vegan/vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant? Same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare—here! Vegetarian/Vegan. B, L, D, R. $ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing. MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Live music, Polynesian dance, and an Island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$
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PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Try the breakfast locomoco with a slant: “fried rice” tots, Maui-onion gravy, and organic poached egg with housemade sausage; Kaua‘i grass-fed beef burger with cured lamb bacon topped with smoked bourbon onion jam for lunch; lobster ravioli for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D. $$-$$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing. PAPA ‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the new, curated menu by Bravo Channel’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast, cheesy kālua-pig nachos with a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of shrimp and Portuguese sausage linguine for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$ PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Med. L, D. $–$$ PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/ Pizza. L, D. $ PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$ ROCKSALT Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features Hawai‘i-produced spirits and house-made infusions. Kid-friendly. International. B, H, D. R. $$–$$$ ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 At lunchtime, line up for a great Maui burger. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$
draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$ THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemoncaper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N. $$-$$$$ STAR NOODLE 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Taverna is dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$ TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort & S, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko—then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, R. $$$ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011 Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch Kidfriendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919 Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$
SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropicalflavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar
‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for
SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay
AWARD
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Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii
OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour
DINING
Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold
and Rosé all Day
Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500
Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com
Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media before heading out. Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $$$
SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307 Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef— two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui— shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm. Coffee Shop. $ BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, H, N. $ CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet, or à la carte? Wait—did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$ FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 874-1234 Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$ FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D. $$$$ FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $
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FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N. $$$$ HUMUHUMU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 ‘Aipono's 2018 Chef of the Year Alvin Savella turns out an umami-laden squid-ink risotto with crispy soft shell crab, cauliflower and fennel. For meat lovers, try Chef's prime beef filet with peppercorn jus. Great wine selections! Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Start with Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern take on chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ KIHEI CAFFE Kihei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230 Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. R. $$$ LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H. $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade "XO" and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic, and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head over to Wailea . . . now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D. $–$$ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kihei Kalama Village Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883 Eggs Benedicts, Florentine-style with spinach or topped with crabcakes, make getting out of bed easy. Munch on an open-face chicken picatta sandwich for lunch and seafood pasta for dinner. Expansive wine list, too! Italian. B, L, H, D. $$$ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 This lobby lounge reimagines
happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N. $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D. $$–$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D. $$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and bananacream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N. $$ NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R. $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. (See North Shore listing.) THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038 The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N. $–$$ PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$$ PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the
CANE & CANOE Maui’s premier steak and seafood restaurant
THE HIDEAWAY AT KAPALUA BAY An ideal destination to stay awhile and return to often
CLIFF HOUSE Where the past and the present meet with aloha
Enjoy a breathtaking ocean view venue offering classic favorites with a modern flair. This haven for beef and seafood connoisseurs features the finest cuts and freshest fish available.
Relax in a casual setting offering locally crafted beers, select wines and island inspired cocktails. This intimate space invites guests to unwind and reconnect.
Intimate venue is nestled on the cliffs of Namalu Bay offering the perfect location for private events. Seasonally, enjoy Champagne Hale at Cliff House, an après-sun experience in Hawaii.
K A PA L U A B AY
| H E A L D S B U R G | D E E R VA L L E Y | L A G U N A B E A C H | L O S C A B O S | PA L M E T T O B L U F F
For reservations, please call (808) 662-6600
1 Bay Drive Lahaina, HI 96761
montagehotels.com/kapaluabay
Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media before heading out.
“We Know Wine” meet our maui team
hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. Europeaninspired. H, D, N. $$-$$$$
CAFÉ O’LEI, THE DUNES AT MAUI LANI 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$
ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D. $–$$
FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., Unit 330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing.
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. American. H, D, N. $$$$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004 See West Side listing.
James Maher Tod Clayton S. Maui Sales W. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier
Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier
LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE.... Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.
hawaii’s fine wine specialist since 1979 EST. 1973 @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi
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SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555 Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, H, D, R. $–$$$ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapplecaramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yakimarinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbeaninspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N. $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.
CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata caprese, along with many fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$
MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the average. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H. $ MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 Kyle Kawakami was ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, and in 2020 won the Gold ‘Aipono for Best Food Truck. He rocks street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $ THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333 Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Great desserts, too! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D. $–$$$ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L. $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Get the three-taco plate lunch [braised beef, pork and shrimp] with street corn, rice and salsa, and you can scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list. Mexican. L. $ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 See West Side listing. TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.
UPCOUNTRY LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones, and artisan
breads baked fresh daily. On weekends, muscle past long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $ O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the woodburning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot-offthe-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $
NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing. FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maplefennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesianinspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials are epic here! Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. L, D. $$–$$$ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Ever since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. L, D, R. $$$ PAIA BOWLS 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 214-6504 Get amped with healthy fruit-and-granola açai bowls, avocado toast and nitro coffee, plus add-ons like ashwaganda, cordyceps and brain dust in your favorite Blue Majik smoothie. You’ll be waffling the surf after your iced matcha latte. Surfer fare. B, L. $ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ WAILUKU COFFEE CO Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229 Downtown goes “county” with this second location, still serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2020
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Who’s Helping
Since the start of the pandemic, Maui businesses, nonprofits and volunteers have stepped up to aid the community. Here are just a few— find more on our social media channels: Facebook.com/MauiMagazine, Instagram.com/MauiMag, and Twitter.com/MauiMag
Since April, Fairmont Kea Lani has helped in more ways than we can count, from donating 1,200 pounds of food to the Maui Food Bank, to sending 3,500 pairs of PPE gloves to first responders. Most importantly, in addition to offering its 700 employees “Ho‘okipa kits” filled with groceries, the hotel has continued their health-insurance coverage throughout the pandemic-mandated closure.
Although officially closed since March, Maui Family YMCA has truly lived up to its name, extending its childcare program through June for keiki of first responders and health-care providers; and with help from the County’s CARES Act funds, chopped its summer-day-camp fees from $120/week to $10/week. The Y also offers space where students can take classes virtually.
Makawao designer Jennifer Oberg specializes in custom wedding dresses, but when COVID-19 struck, she switched to sewing face masks for Maui’s healthcare providers, and then for teachers. Hundreds of donors and volunteers signed on, helping Oberg produce 10,000 medical-grade masks in eight weeks. Seated, from left: Salena Makia, Jennifer Oberg, Diana Lum Ho Woods; standing, from left: Nancy Chavaria, Elaine Gima, Ben Tone
Kudos to Maui County for finding ways to get the most bang for its CARES Act bucks. On September 1, Mayor Michael Victorino announced that $200,000 of those funds would purchase cattle from local ranches, which, processed by DeCoite Packing House, would provide half a ton of ground beef per week for Feed My Sheep to distribute among Maui County’s nonprofits, helping to support local agriculture and Mauians in need.
Begun in 1947 to serve children afflicted with polio, Imua Family Services has for decades helped families throughout Maui County whose keiki have developmental challenges. At the start of the pandemic, the forward-thinking nonprofit’s Kokua Outreach Program stepped up its game, helping folks sign up for health insurance they haven’t had, or lost with layoffs. For information, call 244-7467, or email info@ mauifamily.org.
Maui Economic Opportunity’s mandate is community service; its roughly forty-five programs range from transportation for the disabled, to substance-abuse prevention. In April, MEO added to that load. With County and CARES Act funds, the agency is providing financial aid for residents with COVID-related income loss. “Most of our staff are assisting with this program in addition to their regular work” says MEO director Debbie Cabebe.
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PAU HANA
Story by Tita Illustration by Matt Foster
Da Real Kine Christmas Some of my friends, da ones who went grow up on da mainland, they get kinda sad around dis time a da year, ’cause they miss da wintahtime. Couple of ’em tell me, every year, no feel like Christmas ’cause no mo’ snow. Wassup wit’ dat? Who said Christmas s’pose to be white? I know, I know, Bing Crosby. But Bing wen’ sing “Mele Kalikimaka,” too: “Heah we know dat Christmas going be green an’ bright. . . .” And he sound way mo’ happy on dat song than on da odda one. But my friends, they tell me I wen’ miss out. They t’ink I was, whatchoocall, deprived, ’cause I nevah grow up wit’ snow in da wintahtime. I tell ’em no worry, us locals no need fros’bite an’ chap lips fo’ feel da holladay spirit. In fack, I t’ink mos’ people get way mo’ jolly at 78 dagrees than minus whatevahs. An’ no tell me dat you gotta have snowmans an’ sleigh rides fo’ one traditional Christmas. Da firs’ Christmas, visitahs wen’ come on camels, not Clydesdales. An’ get way mo’ palm trees than pine trees in Bet’lahem. When you t’ink about ‘em, one Hawaiiankine Christmas is mo’ authentic than da wintah wondahland kine. Dass why I no undastand how come people ovah heah spend so much money fo’ decorate da house like they
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stay at da North Pole. They buy one Christmas tree fresh off da boat from da mainland an’ spray ’em wit’ fake snow. They hang big wool stockings on top one fake fireplace an’ put blow-up reindeers on top da roof, even if no mo’ chimney. Even da shopping centahs put up giant snowflakes an’ icicles, li’dat. An’ they make Santa wear da kine snowsuit wit’ fur an’ all, fo’ take pick-tcha wit’ da small kids. If you ask me, they get ’em all backwards. Mo’ bettah us locals teach da mainland guys how fo’ turn one “White Christmas” into one “Mele Kalikimaka.” No worry, I get plenny ideas fo’ spread da tropicoh mood all t’roo da house, even if you stay snowbound an’ shivahring. Da firs’ t’ing fo’ do is put up yo’ tree. Bes’ if you can get one potted palm, but if you gotta use one pine or fir tree, at least you can decorate ’em island style. Go fo’ da natcharoh look: make yo’ own ornaments from seashells an’ top off da tree wit’ one starfish. You can get ’em from da craft supply store. Or else put dried flowahs on top da branches an’ make one supah long lei fo’ da garland. If you no can get ti leaves or maile, jus’ go find some odda kine vines or leaves. But make sure you know da diff ’rence batween Boston ivy an’ poison ivy. An’ while you stay in da woods,
maybe you can find some birch bark fo’ weave like lauhala ornaments. No need be fancy; checkah-board squares is good enough. Da simplisahty is part a da charm. If you get one fireplace, no hang up da same ol’ Christmas stockings. Go get couple, t’ree pairs rubbah slippahs (da mainland stores call ’em flip-flops) an’ line ’em up on top da mantoh. I know, you no can fill up da slippahs wit’ stocking stuffahs, ’cause they keep falling out. But eh, dass couple dozen gifts you no need buy now. Fo’ yo’ holladay dinnah, you can still cook da kine traditionoh foods, but jus’ add some small kine local touch. Stuff da turkey wit’ red li hing mui. Gotta be red, fo’ give da drippings dat nice festive flair. Or try my fav’rite: honey-glaze Spam. Figgah on one can fo’ ev’ry two guests. Then set da t’ermastat to 80, hemo (take off ) yo’ long johns, an’ pour yo’self one big glass pineappoh juice. Mele Kalikimaka! Kathy Collins (a.k.a. Tita) is an actress, storyteller, and cofounder of Mana‘o Radio. Like Tita, Ms. Collins grew up on Maui. WEB EXCLUSIVE To hear Tita read her Pau Hana in Pidgin, visit MauiMagazine.net/da-real-kinechristmas. To order her award-winning comedy CD, Tita Out!, email KathyCollins@KAOI.net.
Serving Hawaii Is Our Business Since 2005, Pasha Hawaii has supported Maui’s locally-grown businesses, including Maui’s own Haynes Publishing Group, a second-generation familyowned company that publishes Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine, Ka’anapali Magazine, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines. These awardwinning publications focus on the life and culture on Maui, celebrating the people, places and events that make this Island, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi. “Our partnership with Pasha Hawaii is one of our most valued. Pasha understands the challenges and unexpected snags facing small-business owners everyday. From senior management to dock workers, the people at Pasha exemplify aloha in their business strategies and responsiveness. They truly care about our product. The remarkable success of Pasha is reflected in their unwavering commitment to the success of their customers.” — Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher, Haynes Publishing Group