2024 Sept/Oct Mazama Bulletin

MAZAMA BULLETIN

CONTENTS

COLUMNS FEATURES

The Future of Smith Rock, p. 10

Virtual Mentoring & Busting Gear: Getting AlpineSavvy with John Godino, p. 11

From Crags to Cradles: Embracing the Climber-Mom Life, p. 13

Broken Glass: Losing Gear but Finding Community, p. 16

Mazamas Climb!, p. 20

Milestones in Oregon Climbing, p. 22

To Bolt or Not To Be: On the Future of Climbing Ethics, p. 26

Climbing Stewardship & the Portland Area Climbers Coalition, p. 28

Top 10 Injury Prevention Tips for Climbers, p. 30

Rock Climbing Glossary, p. 33

Climbing Guidebooks, p. 34

Executive Director’s Message, p. 4

President’s Message, p. 5

Letter from the Editors, p. 5

Draft Amendments to the Mazama Bylaws , p. 6

Mazama Board Of Directors Member Position

Description, p. 7

Upcoming Courses, Activities, & Events, p. 8

New Members, p. 8

Successful Climbers, p. 9

Mazama Base Camp

2024–2025 Program, p. 18

Book Review, p. 19

Board of Directors Minutes, p. 36

IN THIS ISSUE

Some might argue that Smith already has more than enough routes, but my belief is that quality new lines, on less developed crags, only alleviate pressure on the most crowded areas,” p. 10

Could we give up a piece of this beautiful life we had built to make room for a child?” p. 13

Faced with someone so suspicious, we’d made a very expensive mistake: trying not to offend and pre-judge the man, we’d opted to not take our stuff with us.” p. 16

How this debate plays out over the coming decades will depend on individual actors, collective actions, and land managers.” p. 26

Volume 106 Number 5

September/October 2024

Cover: Ali Gray top-roping Jersey Shore (5.7) in the Northern Point area of Smith Rock on a lazy climbing day. Photo: Ali Gray. Right: Derek Jahleka rappelling off the Chief, Squamish British Columbia, 2024. Photo: Brendan Scanlan.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director

As we transition toward the fourth quarter of our fiscal year we have one foot in each door, wrapping up 2024 projects while planning for 2025. My objectives this year have largely revolved around three interrelated priorities—revenue generation, board development, and facilities—and there’s much to report.

Revenue generation is especially important for the Mazamas as we continue to stabilize and strengthen our financial position. While we’ve cut expenses drastically in recent years, a healthy nonprofit carefully grows its resources to invest in strategies to achieve its mission over time. The membership knows this; in our spring survey, strengthening our financial position was ranked by members as our #1 priority, and I agree!

Thankfully, membership revenue is up more than 40 percent year-over-year and is quite healthy. As a result, membership rates and options will remain unchanged for 2025, and our focus will begin to encompass contributed income strategies. Thanks to Lena’s good work as our new Development Director, individual giving and donor stewardship activities are up, foundation grant requests are being submitted, and plans are in the works to share more about estate giving later this year. And of course, our September 25 fundraiser Steps Together is shaping up to be an unforgettable celebration of our mission to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains on the occasion of our 130th year.

Unfortunately, while we’re keeping costs to a minimum, insurance premiums for

outdoor recreation organizations nationwide are skyrocketing to unsustainable rates. The Mazamas has not been immune to this trend; after we were dropped by our former carrier in the spring for no reason beyond “a change in appetite,” we found ourselves suddenly shopping for a new carrier, with every bid coming in either as a flat denial or with premiums astronomically high. As a result of our new policy, we’re looking at an unexpected, sizeable budget increase in 2025 that we’ll need to cover year after year (or until the commercial insurance pendulum swings back in our favor). This can only be done by generating more income.

In addition to membership and charitable contributions, programs also bring in revenue. Currently earning about half of our total income, this revenue stream, too, must grow alongside our budget. The board and I are working together to conduct a comprehensive analysis of our programs and activities to more fully understand their impact (positive or otherwise) on both our bottom line and our mission. This will allow us to optimally, consistently, and competitively design and price programs in a way that asserts their value and ensures that direct and indirect costs are covered.

As Greg shares on the adjacent page, the Board has been up to a lot lately and I’m excited to see the energy coming out of this remarkably thoughtful and curious group. At the end of the day, a board’s duty is to protect the assets of the organization. The framework they’ve built out with the Governance Committee is strongly aligned with best practices, and the board job description (see page 7) they’ve crafted as we go into our elections is a bold declaration of the worthiness of our mission.

Facilities continue to be front and center, as we prepare for the lodge’s roof replacement this month and pending reopening. The Mazama Lodge, and,

to a lesser extent, the MMC, have the capacity to support the Mazamas with rental income—the lodge, as an overnight option for members and the greater Alpine community alike; the MMC as a neighborhood gathering space for meetings, memorials, arts events, and more. But beyond their potential to drive supplemental revenue, our facilities are critical to the member experience. As the place where connections are made and community is created, they’re reflections of both our individual journeys as climbers and our collective culture as Mazamas. Facilities take an enormous amount of resources to maintain—huge shout out to the Lodge Committee, Rick Craycraft, Jeff Hawkins, Chris Jaworski, and all the volunteers who have poured their time and talent into making sure these spaces meet the needs of members.

My areas of focus for 2025 will of course be informed by our strategic plan, but don’t be surprised if some or all of these objectives carry forward into the next year. As we grow, our planning will expand to include multi-year initiatives that take time to develop and transpire. I thank you for your steadfast partnership and support as we learn, grow, and aspire to reach our mission in the fullest capacity possible.

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

by Greg Scott, Mazama President

“You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen.” –Rene Daumal

This quote adorns a photo album my wife Bonnie put together to memorialize our summit of Kilimanjaro in 2008. When I took BCEP in 2002, I recall realizing how much there was to learn. Sure I had backpacked and climbed in the Boy Scouts while growing up in Southern California, but the Mazamas introduced me to alpine climbing skills which required knowledge of a whole new corner of the gear shop. We are never too old to learn, and to learn is to live. In this spirit, and thanks to our Executive Director, the Mazamas was awarded a Board Leadership Training grant

from the M.J. Murdock Charitable Trust. The Murdock Trust guides Northwest nonprofits through every level of their development through grants and other resources. In June, Rebekah Phillips, Matt Sundling, and I attended the training on behalf of the Mazamas. The four day training was led by coaches who had generations of experience with nonprofit management and delved deep into the four pillars of a high functioning board: Governance, Culture, Sustainability, and Strategic Planning. As many of you have heard, we are working on a new Strategic Plan and Vision for the Mazamas. The Murdock team helped guide us to five priorities remaining for this year, to see our Strategic Plan through:

1. Conduct a programmatic review designed to understand the operational overhead and impact of our programs.

2. Map the program review to an in depth resource review to better understand what resources our organization and different programs require to operate.

3. Update the bylaws to support the establishment of a Governance Committee.

4. Establish a Governance Committee to improve board governance practices.

5. Develop a strategic plan. The board got to work and we’ve already tackled numbers 3 and 4 above. One take away from the Murdock training is that the Mazamas is a wellrecognized non-profit in the Pacific Northwest and even with our 130 year history we can grow and transform. I said in my last message, we were at the crux. The board is now exposed to a whole new corner of the proverbial gear shop and is laser focused on taking what we’ve learned and improving thefuture of the Mazamas.

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Bulletin Editor, and Ryan Reed, Issue Content Editor

Welcome to the September/October Mazama Bulletin! We’re excited to present this issue on rock climbing.

A huge thank you to our content editor for this issue, Ryan Reed, for curating the content, coordinating with contributors, and ensuring we adhered to the theme. In our features this month we lead off with Smith Rock legend Alan Watts’ thoughts on the future of Smith (page 10), followed by an interview with Mazama and the driving force behind Alpinesavvy. com John Godino. From there we get a heartfelt description of what it means to

be a climber who decides to have a kid (page 13). Then Nick Hankins takes us through another emotional experience, this time the loss of beloved (and expensive) climbing gear. From there, Ryan Reed takes us on a historical timeline recounting the history of climbing in Oregon (page 22), followed by Topher Dobrowski’s take on the future of climbing and retro-bolting ethics (page 26). Then Mark Daverin walks us through the stewardship, crag maintenance, and advocacy work the Portland Area Climbers Coalition does is so important (page 28). And finally, physical therapist and strength coach April Henderson shares ten time-honored tips for climbing injury prevention (page 30).

Along the way we’ve also got a book review of the latest edition of Climbing Self Rescue (page 19), a selection of climbing guidebooks available in the Mazama

Library (page 34), and a handy glossary of climbing terms (page 33).

In their respective columns this month, Mazama Executive Director Rebekah Phillips and Mazama President Greg Scott walk us through what the Mazama Board of Directors has accomplished thus far this year and where they are headed.

Looking ahead we have themed issues in the works that will highlight our community partners, conservation efforts, volunteering, and more. We hope you enjoy this issue and happy reading!

DRAFT AMENDMENTS TO THE MAZAMA BYLAWS

DRAFT AMENDMENT TO MAZAMA BYLAWS TO MODIFY ELECTION

This amendment provides more flexibility for election timing while retaining key requirements for director qualifications.

ORIGINAL SECTION 4.6:

4.6 Election.

Nine of the directors shall be elected by members at the annual meeting of the members and shall have been a Mazama member for at least three years cumulatively. Up to four directors may be elected by the board and need not be members.

REVISED SECTION 4.6:

4.6 Election.

Nine of the directors shall be elected by members during the last quarter of the year or at a time and place designated by the board and shall have been a Mazama member for at least three years cumulatively. Up to four directors may be elected by the board and need not be members.

KEY DIFFERENCES:

1. Annual Meeting Removal:

□ Original: Elections tied to the annual meeting.

□ Revised: Elections can occur at any time, not just the annual meeting.

2. Consistency in Membership Requirement:

□ Both Versions: Directors elected by members must have three years of cumulative membership.

3. Board-Elected Directors:

□ Both Versions: Up to four directors can be elected by the board without needing to be members.

NOTES:

■ Flexibility: Revised version allows more flexible election timing, accommodating organizational needs.

■ Communication: Clear information on election timing is crucial to maintain transparency.

■ Diversity: Non-member directors can bring external perspectives and skills

while ensuring alignment with the organization’s values.

DRAFT AMENDMENT TO MAZAMA BYLAWS TO MODIFY OFFICER ELECTIONS AND TERM OF OFFICE

This amendment aims to enhance the flexibility and clarity of the officer election process, aligning it more closely with the organization's operational calendar and governance needs.

ORIGINAL SECTION 5.2:

5.2 Election; Term of Office.

Officers shall be elected by the board at the annual meeting for a term of one year (or such other term as the board may designate) unless sooner removed and may be elected to any number of consecutive terms. The executive director shall serve in such office for as long as they are employed by the Mazamas as executive director.

REVISED SECTION 5.2:

5.2 Election; Term of Office.

Officers shall be elected by the board during the last quarter of the year, typically after board elections, or at a time and place designated by the board. They will serve a one year term (or another term designated by the board) unless sooner removed and may be elected to any number of consecutive terms. The executive director shall serve in such office for as long as they are employed by the Mazamas as executive director.

KEY DIFFERENCES:

4. Timing of Elections:

□ Original: Officers are elected at the annual meeting.

□ Revised: Officers are elected during the last quarter of the year, typically after board elections, or at another time and place designated by the board.

5. Flexibility in Timing:

□ Original: Specifies the annual meeting as the election time.

□ Revised: Provides flexibility by allowing the board to designate an alternative time and place for elections.

NOTES:

6. Election Flexibility:

□ The revised section offers more flexibility for the board to schedule officer elections at a convenient time, potentially improving attendance and participation.

7. Alignment with Board Elections:

□ Holding officer elections after board elections can ensure that new board members are involved in the selection of officers, promoting fresh perspectives.

8. Clarity and Readability:

□ The revised section improves clarity by specifying when officer elections typically occur while maintaining the option for board discretion.

DRAFT AMENDMENT TO MAZAMA BYLAWS TO ESTABLISH GOVERNANCE COMMITTEE

This amendment replaces the Nominating Committee with a Governance Committee as an advisory body to assist the Board of Directors by overseeing bylaws revisions, governance policies, board nominations, election processes, and board effectiveness reviews.

ORIGINAL SECTION 4.12:

Section 4.12 Nominating Committee. The nominating committee shall be an advisory committee of the board of directors, as described in Section 4.14, that assists the board with its governance responsibility by identifying and proposing individuals for election to the board.

The nominating committee shall consist of at least two directors and the board may appoint members to serve on the nominating committee. The nominating committee shall provide the board with a list of names of persons who the nominating committee has vetted and recommends for election to the board.

REVISED SECTION 4.12:

Section 4.12 Governance Committee. The governance committee shall be an advisory committee of the board of directors, as described in Section 4.14. It shall consist of the vice president and at least two other directors appointed

continued on page 38

MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS MEMBER POSITION DESCRIPTION

At the Mazamas, our Board of Directors plays a crucial role in supporting our mission and guiding our strategic vision. While our day-to-day operations are led by our dedicated Executive Director (ED), our board members are essential partners in fostering a thriving, impactful organization. Here’s how you can contribute to our vibrant community:

YOUR ROLE AS A BOARD MEMBER

Support and Stewardship:

■ Active Engagement: Actively participate in discussions and decisions that shape the future of the Mazamas. Your involvement ensures that we continue to grow and thrive.

■ Prioritize Our Mission: Always put the interests of the Mazamas first, ensuring we stay true to our goals and values.

■ Legal and Ethical Integrity: Help us navigate legal responsibilities and uphold our mission with integrity.

Leadership and Collaboration:

■ Strategic Partner: Work closely with the ED to develop and implement our strategic plan, providing valuable insights and guidance.

■ Impact Measurement: Regularly review our progress and help evaluate our impact using established metrics.

■ Preparation and Participation: Come prepared to board and committee meetings, ready to contribute thoughtfully.

■ Financial Oversight: As a board member, you will be responsible for understanding and approving our annual budget, audit reports, and key business decisions to ensure the financial health of the Mazamas. While having a strong financial background is an asset, we offer training to help you review and comprehend our financial documents, enabling you to fulfill your oversight responsibilities effectively

■ Performance Evaluation: Participate in the annual review of the ED, helping to guide their growth and performance.

■ Board Development: Assist in identifying and recruiting new board members who are passionate about our mission.

■ Commitment to Diversity: Ensure our board and staff reflect the diverse communities we serve.

■ Team Collaboration: Work with fellow board members to carry out board resolutions and initiatives.

■ Committee Involvement: Serve on committees or task forces, taking on special projects that leverage your unique skills and interests.

■ Community Ambassador: Represent the Mazamas to the community, acting as a passionate advocate for our organization with one voice.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE THROUGH CONTRIBUTION AND FUNDRAISING

■ Philanthropic Leadership: Make the Mazamas one of your top philanthropic priorities with an annual gift that reflects your dedication to our mission. Your contribution should reflect your ability to give and your commitment to supporting the Mazamas. While there is no set contribution minimum or maximum, our goal is to achieve 100 percent participation from board members.

■ Fundraising Support: As a board member, you play a crucial role in building and maintaining relationships with donors. Your efforts to thank them for their support and encourage ongoing contributions are vital to our success. Our Executive Director and Development Director are available to provide guidance and leadership on how best to engage with your network and amplify our fundraising efforts.

COMMITMENT AND ENGAGEMENT

■ Term of Service: Serve a three-year term, with the possibility of renewing for a second term.

■ Meeting Participation: Join us for monthly board meetings and regular committee meetings, contributing your expertise and enthusiasm.

■ Volunteer Time: The hourly expectation for the typical board position may range from 15–30 hours per month depending on your role with the board.

Committee Participation

■ Active Involvement: Choose a committee that aligns with your interests and skills, and consider stepping into a leadership role.

Ideal Qualifications

We are looking for individuals who are:

■ Experienced Leaders: With significant achievements in business, education, the arts, government, philanthropy, or the nonprofit sector.

■ Mission-Aligned: Deeply committed to understanding and advancing our mission.

■ Relationship Builders: Skilled in cultivating relationships and fostering collaboration.

■ Strategic Thinkers: Focused on longterm goals and organizational growth.

■ Integrity-Driven: Committed to our values and leading by example.

■ Team Players: Valuing diversity, excellence, and effective communication.

A REWARDING OPPORTUNITY

Serving on the Mazama Board of Directors is a fulfilling volunteer role. While it is unpaid, the impact you can make on our community and the satisfaction of supporting a cause you believe in are invaluable.

UPHOLDING

OUR VALUES

■ Conflict of Interest: Annually review and complete a Conflict of interest form and disclosure statement.

■ Confidentiality: Maintain the confidentiality of all board and committee discussions and materials.

■ Affirmation Statement: Each year, review and sign an Annual Affirmation Statement confirming your commitment to serving as an active and engaged Mazama Board member. Join us in making a significant impact and helping the Mazamas thrive. Contact Greg Scott at gregscott@mazamas.org to learn more.

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS

CLASSICS LUNCHEON

Dates: Friday, September 6

Time: Noon

Cost: $5

Location: Mazama Lodge

If you’re looking to enjoy some cool mountain air during our hot summer, consider signing up for our annual Classics Mazama Lodge luncheon on September 6. Please RSVP to classics@mazamas.org and let us know how many will be attending. Mazama restaurateur Charles Barker will prepare a delicious lunch at the lodge. Payment will be accepted at the lodge. We hope to have a speaker who will discuss Timberline’s proposed large parking lot near the lodge, designed to support expanded skiing from Timberline to Government Camp.

MAZAMA TRAIL 30TH ANNIVERSARY HIKES

Dates: September 7–8, 2024

Cost: Free

The 30th anniversary of the Mazama Trail will be held at the trailhead on September 7 and 8. There will be three hikes of various lengths each day. On Saturday there will be a hike to McNeil Point and Sunday a hike to Cairn Basin. On both days there will be hikes to the Timberline Trail and a one-mile show-and-tell of the history and construction of the trail. For those interested in staying overnight there will be dry camping available with a port-a-potty on site.

STEPS TOGETHER 130TH ANNIVERSARY EVENT

Dates: Wednesday, September 25

Cost: $85–$150

Location: Irving Street Studio

Join us for a festive reception, family-style dinner, stories from the trail, and a special appeal as we celebrate the power of the mountains to inspire belonging, enrich communities, and uncover our shared humanity together.

Alpinist, author, and podcast host Christian Beckwith caps the evening with an inspiring keynote address that gives context to our past, present, and future.

Details at mazamas.org/benefit/

ADVANCED ROCK INFO NIGHT

Dates: Wednesday, November 20

Time: 6:30 p.m.

Cost: Free

Location: Zoom (check Mazama calendar)

Want to learn how to trad climb?

Advanced Rock (AR) provides highquality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes. The course consists of lectures by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. There are several weekend field sessions, each coordinated and taught by skilled, experienced climbers.

Why attend?

■ Get a detailed overview of the course

■ Meet the AR Committee

■ Ask questions in a live Q&A session

UPCOMING FIRST AID COURSES

Upcoming Mazamas First Aid Courses through June 2025:

■ Hike Leader First Aid and CPR go to mazamas.org/cpr

■ Wilderness First Aid go to mazamas.org/wfa

■ Mountain First Aid go to mazamas.org/mfa

■ EpiPen training Dec. 5, 2024

■ Stop-The-Bleed training Feb. 6, 2025

■ Wilderness First Responder Training 2025 TBD

NEW MEMBERS

Between June 1, 2024, and July 31, 2024, the Mazamas welcomed 57 new members. Please join us in welcoming them to our community!

Paxton Alsgaard

Ján Ambroz

Cameron Barclift

Gabrielle Bedeian

Matthew Brownlee

Nico Bull

David Bumpus

Lisa Condon

Will Dinneen

Sarah Dugan

Russ Eisenberg

Ember Eisenberg

Bryan Estes

Elizabeth Font

Jack Grasberger

Kanjunac Gregga

Kiran Hall

Kaden Hall

Wenwei Han

José Haro

Suzie Kabeiseman

Liz Kelly-Campanale

Andy Kish

Carlton Klein

George Kormanik

Owen Kormanik

Hsin-Cheng Kuo

Anna Leung

Raghu Madala

Nandana Madala

Kim Montagriff

Noah Nelles

Ella Nuttbrock

Kendra Petersen-Morgan

Willa Petersen-Smith

Vahid Raboodan

Tito Reinhart

Kelly Reinhart

Mikel Rhodes

Daniel Rinehart

Beth Roskilly

Laura Russell

Adam Scotten

Jasmina Shappy

Paul Shirkey

Zach Shoffner

Matt Snyder

Teresa Stover

Tyler Talarico-Yunker

Emily Thackray

William Threet

Leesa Tymofichuk

Tyler Velez

Cody Wiench

Aaron Wilson

Curtis Winn

Jennifer Zuber

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

Jun 1, 2024—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. John Sterbis, Leader; Bashar Al-Rawi, Assistant Leader. Leana Goetze, Jonathan Lawrence Hart, Lyla Rayyan, John Powers, Kat Miracle.

Jun 6, 2024—Mt. Hood (Wy’east), South Side. Tim Scott, Leader; Patricia Akers, Assistant Leader. Christopher Chan, Benjamin Schmidt, Quinn Schwartz, Isabel Arnold, Philippe Thuillier, Maxwell Austin, Jonathon Baker, Astha Sethi, Paxton Alsgaard.

Jun 7, 2024—South Sister, Prouty Glacier. Jeffrey Welter, Leader; Jacob Wolfgang Haag, Astrid Zervas, Jean Hillebrand, Linda Musil.

Jun 8, 2024—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Debbie Dwelle, Leader; Kirk Newgard, Leader; John Facendola, Assistant Leader. Natalie Michelle Letz, Alec Studier, Lauren Bray, Nickola Ovchinnikov, Caitlin Johnson, Hamp Haynes, McKenzie Reynolds-Stein, Lee Davis.

Jun 8, 2024—Santiam Pinnacle

South Face. Andrew Leaf, Leader; Josh Moss, Assistant Leader. Adam Marion, Kelly O’Loughlin, Ryan Peterson, Gregory Fernandez, Mark Federman, Jeremy Luedtke, Matt Gardner, Christina Cook, Andrew Behr, Jen Travers.

Jun 8, 2024—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Toby Contreras, Leader; Colleen Rawson, Assistant Leader. Lauren Walker, Corey Johns, Chloe Shelby, Elizabeth Franke, Carrie Spates, Astha Sethi.

Jun 8, 2024—The Castle, Standard Route. Christine Troy, Leader; Claire Vandevoorde, Assistant Leader. Alex Cant, Julia Grabowski, Thomas Clarke, Heather Brech, Caroline Foster, Kate Strube.

Jun 9, 2024—Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Lindsey Addison, Leader; Kris Holmes, Kate Strube, Julia Grabowski, Shelley Stearns, Leslie J. Shotola, Minah De Ainza.

Jun 9, 2024—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Christine Troy, Leader; Laetitia Ma. Pascal, Assistant Leader. Dhaval Patel, Kat Canada, Melissa Smith, Nicole Diggins, Nikki Thompson, Alicia Antoinette.

Jun 9, 2024—The Castle, Standard Route. Toby Contreras, Leader; Kirk C. Rohrig, Assistant Leader. Lauren Walker, Logan Mante, Mike Harley, Martin Eugene Taylor, Rachael Nelson, Justin Sovich, Nadia Rivera. Jun 13, 2024—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Howie Davis, Leader; David Urbaniak, Assistant Leader. Truth Johnston, Taylor Greely, Midori Watanabe, Yukiko Toyoda, Frank Liao, Colin Baker, Winnie Dong, Eric Stern.

Jun 14, 2024—Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Charlie Owen, Elizabeth Hill, Ian McMurray.

Jun 14, 2024—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Jen Travers, Leader; JJ Bjordahl, Michael Quigley, Kamilla Aslami, Matthew Barbisan, Theo Cantalupo, Kristine de Leon, Reigh Robitaille, Kathryn Villarreal.

Jun 15, 2024—Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Charlie Owen, Assistant Leader. Ian McMurray, Elizabeth Hill.

Jun 16, 2024—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Elizabeth Hill, Assistant Leader. Ian McMurray, Charlie Owen.

Jun 16, 2024—Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. James Jula, Leader; Janelle Klaser, Assistant Leader. Yukti Aggarwal, Jacob Lippincott, Bikash Padhi, Jooim Yang, Chris Reigeluth.

Jun 21, 2024—Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Stacey Reding, Leader; Casey Ferguson, Assistant Leader. Lauren Walker, Evan McDowell, Heather Brech, Mark Creevey, Erin McConville, Frank Liao, Astha Sethi, Matthew Barbisan, Kai Hinton.

Jun 22, 2024—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Janelle Klaser, Leader; Lisa Lesko, Noel T Tavan, Stephen De Herrera, Ashley Yang, Justin Cochran, Allison Boyd.

Jun 22, 2024—Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader; Ben Dair Rothfuss, Assistant Leader. Dmitry Medvedev, Elizabeth Reed, Stephen Schmitt, Bill Lowder, Marcus Mittasch, Gary Riggs.

Jun 23, 2024—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Janelle Klaser, Leader; Max Ciotti, Lisa Lesko, Noel Tavan, Ashley Yang, Allison Boyd, Zack Crandell.

Jun 23, 2024—Eagle-Chutla Peaks, Longmire Trail. Eric Einspruch, Leader; Ralph Daub, Assistant Leader. Laura Russell, Dan Durst, Michael Moy, Kira Smith, Alastair Cox, Samantha Dowgin, Frank Squeglia, Robin Case.

Jun 29, 2024—Mt. Ellinor, Summertime Route. Eric Einspruch, Leader; Casey Ferguson, Assistant Leader. Richard C. Hall, Assistant Leader. Kendra Petersen-Morgan, Andy Graham, Elias Graham, Willa PetersenSmith, Owen Kormanik, George Kormanik, Kiran Hall, Kaden Hall.

Jun 29, 2024—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Shiva Kiran, Assistant Leader. Byung Gi Han, William Withington, Paul Kaufmann, Dan Durst.

Jun 30, 2024—Mt. Adams, South Side. Christine Troy, Leader; Toby Contreras, Assistant Leader. Margo Conner, Wenwei Han, Lydia Alderfer, Truth Johnston, Carrie Spates.

Jul 1, 2024—Mt. Adams, South Side. Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Leader; Arjun Sudhir, Assistant Leader. Kenneth Umenthum, Malcolm Reilly, Tuller Schricker.

Jul 6, 2024—Mt. Pugh, NW Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader; Melanie Means, Assistant Leader. Michele Scherer Barnett, Berkeley Barnett, Mark Creevey, Jessica Minifie, Thomas Clarke, Jean Hillebrand.

Jul 7, 2024—Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Ryan Johnson, Leader; Thomas Owens, Assistant Leader. Leah Brown, Laura Westmeyer, Milton Diaz, Elizabeth Hill.

Jul 7, 2024—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Melinda Hugo, Leader; Matthew Gantz, Assistant Leader. Dhaval Patel, Seth Truby, Kenneth Umenthum, Lauren Walker, Kathryn Villarreal, Saurabh Bhavsar.

Jul 7, 2024—Mt. Adams, South Side. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Agreen Ahmadi, Assistant Leader. William Withington, Zack Boisselle, Frank Liao, Thomas Schwenger, Elizabeth Rupp, Will Dinneen.

Jul 12, 2024—Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys. Darren Ferris, Leader; Evan Conway Smith, Assistant Leader. Tyler Sievers, Drew Dykstra, Michele Scherer Barnett, Max Steele, Laetitia Ma. Pascal, Bikash Padhi.

Jul 13, 2024—Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader; Melanie Means, Assistant Leader. Luke Davis, Colin Baker, Ashley Yang, Kathy Ragan-Stein, Jen Travers.

Jul 13, 2024—Mt. Adams, South Side. Lindsey Addison, Leader; Alex Cant, Evan McDowell, Patricia Akers, Kshitij Kulkarni, Carisa Merchant, Maddy Otto.

Jul 13, 2024—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Joe Preston, Leader; Kristi C. Riedel, Assistant Leader. Edward Decker, Stephen De Herrera, Sean Kuiawa, Karinn Pearson, Elizabeth Reed, Lisa Lesko, Matthew Farr.

Jul 13, 2024—Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Gary Bishop, Leader; Kim Osgood, Assistant Leader. Nina Wohlfahrt, Benjamin Bellman, Elizabeth Rupp, Melissa Arnold, Finn Ramos, Bryan Thieme, David Hurley.

Jul 15, 2024—Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. James Jula, Leader; Kirk C. Rohrig, Assistant Leader. Kristofel Simbajon, Jacob Lippincott, Jenica Villamor, Melanie Bower.

THE FUTURE OF SMITH ROCK

by Alan Watts

The rise of Smith Rock from an unknown state park to a world renowned destination surely ranks among the most unlikely stories in the annals of American climbing. From the humble origins of reaching the summits, to the birth of US sport climbing with the hardest routes in the nation, no one could have predicted the story of Smith Rock.

Born and raised just 20 miles from Smith, fate provided me with the unique opportunity to respond to the calling of this amazing place; I’ve spent the better part of my life doing just that. I’ve been lucky enough to have a front row seat to watch Smith history unfold; for a time, I was on the stage myself.

The story of the past has been told countless times, but what might the future hold?

Like so many of our beloved outdoor spaces, the sheer popularity of Smith Rock is the biggest obstacle facing future generations. I believe that the best approach isn’t limiting access through a permit system, but instead expanding access with new bridges and trails leading users to less trampled regions of Smith Rock. Fortunately, this is the exact

approach Oregon State Parks proposes with their newly completed master plan.

On the busiest days, Smith might seem hopelessly overcrowded. But the reality is that people tend to flock together, climbing the same routes and hiking the same trails, while ignoring everything else. As long as everyone approaches across the same bridge, hiking Misery Ridge or climbing only in the main area, the overcrowding problem will only get worse. The key is to provide multiple access points, leading to less used sections of the park and BLM land, for both hikers and climbers. Brilliant climbing and spectacular terrain aren’t limited to Smith’s main area. The full development of climbing in the Monument Area, the Marsupial Crags, and the Zoo (with roughly 500 new routes) has already provided worthy options for climbers unwilling to follow the herd.

The newly reworked master plan proposes two new bridges (below the Monument and near the Phoenix Buttress) that will ease pressure, providing new access to more routes and trails. An improved trail system along the rim, centered around a new 3,000 sq. foot visitors center, will persuade many sightseers to avoid the strenuous hike into the canyon.

Will Smith Rock climbing once again rise to the highest levels of the sport, with the hardest routes in the country established by new generations? Likely not. The nature of the rock – especially the

lack of severely overhanging walls – limits the potential. But it’s only a matter of time before current standards rise again, with several 5.15 projects awaiting first ascents.

After the past decade saw unprecedented growth (with more than 800 new routes) it’s likely that the coming decades will see only a fraction of this development—at least in part due to a bolting approval process. But remarkable expanses of untouched stone still remain. With the most popular regions of Smith already fully developed, future lines shouldn’t be crammed in between existing routes. Some might argue that Smith already has more than enough routes, but my belief is that quality new lines, on less developed crags, only alleviate pressure on the most crowded areas.

My hope is that the park will continue to expand, through acquisitions and land donations. The most recent acquisition was a significant part of the Lower Gorge, featuring Smith’s best trad routes. Most desirable is the land across the river west of the state park, with views every bit as magnificent as anywhere at Smith. Today, this land is the exclusive domain of private landowners, but perhaps some generous benefactor might someday open these remarkable vistas to the public.

One thing is certain—Smith climbing won’t fade away. The rich history, quality of the routes, and the magnificence of the setting ensure Smith will forever attract climbers from around the world.

Smith Rock. Photo: Alan Watts

VIRTUAL MENTORING & BUSTING GEAR: GETTING ALPINESAVVY WITH JOHN GODINO

by Ryan Reed

Beginning climbers do well to stick to the basics— simplicity and repetition are the keys to safety. But soon enough they start to see unfamiliar shortcuts and alternate methods; they hear of exceptions to rules; and they need solutions to unexpected problems. If they’re lucky, they find a good mentor; otherwise, it can take years of chance encounters and stumbling through sources to gain this kind of secondary knowledge. And even the most experienced climbers often miss the boat on new methods and gear.

In 2018, Mazama climb leader John Godino started the website AlpineSavvy as a clearinghouse for just this kind of information. Not your basic how-tobelay stuff, but the time-saving tricks, the myth-busting data, the innovative new techniques, the sage advice. With topics ranging from aid climbing to Z-systems, and a trove of resources for navigation, AlpineSavvy has something for anyone who climbs or travels in the wilderness.

John is superbly qualified for the sifting, vetting, and editing of this vast jumble of intelligence. A climber for 30 years and a Mazama climb leader for more than 20, he’s delivered countless lectures and training for basic, intermediate, and advanced Mazama classes; he actually came up with the whole idea of “skillbuilder” classes. He has a Master’s degree in geosciences/cartography, and was a U.S. Forest Service wilderness ranger and a wildland firefighter. He was instrumental in revamping the Mazama website, and is responsible for creating and maintaining the site’s libraries of GPX and KML tracks for mountain navigation.

After six years, AlpineSavvy is now loaded with 550 articles and counting,

the largest collection of alpine climbing tips online, with both original content and myriad links to videos and other sources. It seemed long overdue to have John tell us a bit more about his venture.

What was the impetus for starting AlpineSavvy?

It’s wonderful to teach people in person, and I’ve done plenty of that. But that style of learning doesn’t scale very well. I started my website and Instagram to leverage my knowledge to reach a substantially larger group of people. The web is a great medium for blog-style instruction like this. I can add photos, videos, and much more detailed written commentary than you can fit in a magazine or a book. I learn something that I think is cool, I share it, and hope a few people feel the same.

Do you have a sense of the breadth of your audience, who they are and where they climb?

What are your main sources?

Instagram is my main source.

When you see a guide or professional climber posting a nifty trick or sage opinion, is it ever difficult getting their permission to republish it on AlpineSavvy?

If somebody is posting a tip in public, as opposed to a paid online class, it’s safe to assume that they are putting it out there in the world for anyone else to use. Sometimes I will ask permission. I pride myself on giving credit, whenever I can, to whoever I learned the trick from, even if they didn’t come up with it themselves. Now that I have a relatively large following, the others realize the benefit of my sharing their tips, so there’s a fair bit of mutual benefit.

I have about 110,000 followers on Instagram and about 1,500 unique website visitors per day. I don’t dive into the web statistics too much, but there’s a rather large contingent of folks from Iran, which I find interesting.

A lot of us get our tips from climbers’ forums and social media posts, which are always followed by dozens of comments refuting, defending, or nick-picking the original post. Anyone complain about the lack of exhausting debates on your website?

I’m often a part of those discussions when I post on Instagram. On my website, I intentionally have comments turned off for the public portion of the site so I don’t get distracted. I’d much rather be writing and researching the next tip rather than being on troll patrol. My website has no advertising, no affiliate marketing, no brand sponsorships, no paid product promotion. People can learn without any of these distractions, and I generally think the continued on next page.

bantering and critique of comments can distract from the original post..

AlpineSavvy now has a lot of entertaining videos you’ve made with climber and slackliner Ryan Jenks at HowNOT2, where you perform “MythBusters”-style experiments pulling gear to failure with a hydraulic press. How did you get involved with Ryan?

Ryan is one of the most fascinating and energetic people I’ve ever met. We had some back-and-forth on the phone about articles I posted that he wanted to test. Then he stopped at my house for a nice rest on a road trip and we got to know each other in person. I’ve since visited him in Seattle several times with some gear breaking ideas, and those have spun off into several of his popular YouTube videos. Anyone interested in climbing would benefit from following his YouTube and Instagram. He recently started an online gear store that I think will be one of the biggest in the U.S., which will help support his gear testing.

What have been the most popular posts (both topic and type of post)?

Anchors! And any Instagramer that has a skull and crossbones, that gets people’s attention. On the other hand, navigation and trip planning are my personal passions, and I always wish more people were interested, but those posts never do as well.

Have you had to choose between alternative or competing methods when deciding which gets the “thumbs up AlpineSavvy seal of approval”?

I have to do that all the time. The techniques that I choose to post are based on my personal experience, but I try to stay as current as I can on generally accepted best practices. As you get more experience in climbing, you realize that almost everything we do is subjective, and there’s a wide range of acceptable ways to do things. With your earliest articles now six years old, have you had to take down or edit any of them due to new information or better methods that have come up since then?

I go back and edit and improve my articles all the time, even some of the quite old ones. I have deleted a few that no longer

show best practices, but in general, I try to upgrade where I can. It’s important to maintain the older “evergreen” articles that are still relevant and searchable by Google because the material is still important. Do you ever get a sense of local variations in methods across the US, or the world?

Yes, that’s one of the fascinating things! For example, Americans can be pretty relaxed about using non-locking carabiners for a multi-pitch anchor, whereas in Europe it’s generally taught that you need to use lockers everywhere. Many Europeans are fine with using a single stout bolt as an anchor, whereas that would never happen in the U.S. British climbers love to build complicated anchors using the climbing rope, Americans reach for the cordelette. You have endorsements from several well-known climbers, including Will Gadd, who says: “If AlpineSavvy existed when I started climbing, I would have had exactly 73 percent fewer epics, lost 94 percent less gear, and almost died 99 percent less.” Any thoughts on his math?

Will is a product of the Canadian school system, so I’m sure his math skills are better than mine.

AlpineSavvy now showcases some beautiful mountain photography by John Scurlock, Doug Wilson, Derek Fias, Vaqas Malik, Andrew Holman and Angela Bohlke. How did that come about?

I am a lousy photographer, but fortunately, I have some Mazama friends who are excellent. When I started the website I asked a few of them to let me showcase a dozen of their photos, giving them credit of course. I think it’s a nice little aesthetic corner of my website, where folks can take a breather from all of the tech tips.

Any other areas you’re thinking of expanding into?

Something I want to add onto my premium membership is a series of selfrescue instructional videos filmed with a professional guide who literally just wrote the book on the topic. There don’t seem to be any such videos currently on the web, and self-rescue is especially well-suited to video instruction because some of the

techniques are fairly complicated. I’m looking to add that in autumn of this year, so that will be a significant benefit for members.

You now have Premium memberships, but most of the content is still publicly available. How does Premium work, and what do Premium subscribers get?

For various reasons in 2024, I decided to start making some money off of my website rather than running it as a hobby project, and that has been a big change for this year. For a very modest monthly cost, which is currently just $9, premium members get access to three main things: the complete long-form version of every new article published after January 2024, entry into some sweet monthly gear giveaways and monthly discount codes, and access to discounts from more than 20 cool companies that offer products climbers love, like publications, sports nutrition, niche gear companies, and online guiding and instruction.

I also believe that information like this that could potentially save your life be freely available to the largest number of people possible. That’s why I keep a useful yet shorter version of all new articles available for free on the public portion of my website.

How can Mazama members support what you do?

Get a premium membership! Mazama members can use the discount code MAZAMAS at checkout to get their first month free.

Do you still manage to get out and climb, or is writing about climbing taking up all your time?

I still get out and climb a bit, but I have lots of demands from my family so that keeps me fairly close to home. I am moving to Bend in November 2024, so I will be a lot closer to Smith and the Sisters, so I’m sure I’ll be getting out a lot more.

FROM CRAGS TO CRADLES: EMBRACING THE CLIMBER-MOM LIFE

by Kate Scanlan

For the last decade-plus, when anyone asked me what I do, my answer came easily: I’m a climber. At some point I might also mention that I’m a physical therapist, I’m from Chicago, I’m a sister, and own a dog. But for the majority of my adult life, climbing has defined my personality. It’s reflected in my social circle, in my part-time work schedule, and in my choice of home city. Climbing is my worldview, my way of life.

And then there’s this other thing: for as long as I can remember I have wanted to have kids. That feeling, too, was strong— until a break-up and a cross-country move from Chicago to Portland left me second-guessing if having kids would happen for me. In Portland, largely thanks to the Mazamas, I became friends with people decades older and younger than me, including many who were childless by choice and were living immensely fulfilling lives. Maybe that could be my life, too. I grew a routine of annual trips to Indian Creek and Squamish, and spent weekends at Index, Smith Rock, and local crags. It felt like I had found my best life. Maybe I didn’t want kids after all.

In 2019, I met my husband, John. We loved getting outside together. We were married in 2021, and honeymooned in our

truck camper, climbing across the country for two months, followed by surfing in Costa Rica and Morocco. Life was great!

When we talked about kids, John was 50/50 and I was now 60/40. Would we be able to travel and climb and surf and ski if we had a baby? Could we give up a piece of this beautiful life we had built to make room for a child?

As we began to consider the question, trad dad after trad dad told us “Of course you can keep climbing! Look at me!” John was comforted by their answers. Each time I asked “Does your wife climb?” the answer, inevitably, was “No, not really.” I became exasperated. I take pride in being a female climber who mostly climbs with other women, especially in the alpine. In a

continued on next page.

Family climbing at Broughton Bluff, 2023. All photos: Kate Scanlan

Crags to Cradles, continued from previous page.

sport where men outnumber women 2:1, I feel empowered by climbing with women. Where were the trad moms?

We occasionally met climber families out with small children. Watching them, we learned climbing with kids took a will of steel, come hell or toddler meltdown. Could we do it? John sweetly promised that if we couldn’t, then I could be the climber in the family. That raised new questions. Was it wrong to put my joy above his? What kind of mother would that make me? Aren’t mothers supposed to be selfless?

After many conversations, we decided to go for it. We kept the pregnancy private until after the first trimester. My narrow, self-imposed definition of climbing required leading, but I wasn’t sure if it was safe for me to lead while pregnant. There is very little research on pregnancy and exercise and certainly none on climbing fall factors and their effect on fetuses. I didn’t feel comfortable falling but felt I couldn’t stop leading with my regular partners until they knew about the pregnancy. So, with John, I mostly top-roped but with other partners I dropped my leading grade, told them I was climbing for mileage, and prayed my partner wouldn’t whip when I was belaying. I questioned my integrity in making this compromise but the need for

normalcy and belonging in the face of a vast sea of change was too strong.

Once I got past the first trimester it was a joy to finally release my secret. I stopped leading, but continued to refuse to wear a pregnancy harness—it wasn’t comfortable, and its impractical single-gear loop was laughable, especially when cleaning trad routes. As the pregnancy progressed and I slowed down, I started to feel like a burden to my climbing partners, or worse, often felt left out. Friends would blast the group chat “Who wants to lead tonight?” which to me read, “Anyone but Kate want to climb tonight?” On top of that was the challenge of watching my body change. As a teen, I was brainwashed into believing a twiglike body was best. But climbing changed my relationship with my body—I thought as long as my body was strong it was good. Now that well-honed instrument was growing into a body I didn’t recognize, and I began to hate it, and hate John because his body wasn’t changing.

On the flip side, there were friends who slowed their pace on hikes to ensure I didn’t feel like a burden, and friends who put up climbs easy enough for me to do when my abs no longer functioned. There were also the friends who went on a final babymoon climbing trip with me, who

carried all my gear and did all the belaying so I could be more comfortable. At the Advanced Rock graduation party that spring I saw an old climbing friend I hadn’t seen in years. Seeing my enormous eightmonth-pregnant belly, he lit up and told me I looked beautiful. At that time, it felt like one of the kindest things anyone had ever said to me. Rarely have I felt so loved as these friends made me feel, and I will never forget their inclusivity and kindness.

I became a mom on June 25, 2023, at 5:21 a.m. as the sun was rising. Due to a wicked combo of a COVID-19 infection and a hemorrhage, recovery was harder than I anticipated. While I climbed up until the week I gave birth, it took three weeks before I could get on the easiest routes at the gym, and even that required breaks and left me breathless. Looking around, the only climber mom role model I saw was professional climber Emily Harrington. She had a child around the same time as I, but she ski-toured at two weeks postpartum. Was I failing already? I still defined myself by the grade and amount I climbed. Isn’t that what we as climbers so often (foolishly) do?

I started making timelines of when I needed to be back to before-pregnancy shape.

Kate and John in Potrero Chico, 2020.

Babymoon climbing trip to Red Rocks, 2023.

During parental leave, John and I would bring our son, Remy, to the gym at off times. Remy would happily sleep through it all. I still couldn’t help but wonder if I was a bad mom for bringing him there. What if he got germs? What if he inhaled too much chalk dust? Were other climbers judging us? I felt especially insecure if he began to fuss.

We took Remy to the crag for the first time at seven weeks. I was so stressed about sun exposure, temperature, diaper changes in the dirt, breastfeeding in front of our friends, and if a rock would fall and hit Remy... I top-roped one route and my friends held Remy—he was happy, and I was mentally drained. It felt like a big victory just being there, but I could hardly think of climbing. I questioned if it was worth it.

We continued to try to climb as a family but generally couldn’t get in more than a route or two. When Remy was nine months old, we juggled endless logistics to book a family trip to Red Rocks, outside Las Vegas. The weather looked good, we were meeting a bunch of our friends, and my parents would come watch Remy so John and I could finally climb together. Ultimately though, we had to cancel. I was beyond bummed out. After listening to me complain, my good friend Angie heard me

out and planned a Red Rocks weekend trip, including finding me a partner. I balked. Should I go? Was it fair of me to leave John alone with Remy so I could climb? Was I a bad mom? John and Angie reassured me.

Getting on the plane, I was nervous about my rusty trad climbing skills and worried I wasn’t in shape and couldn’t keep up. But from the second we landed in Las Vegas, I felt alive and stoked for the days ahead. I was doing what made me, me. Andrés, who I knew but hadn’t climbed with before, was the perfect partner for the trip (thank you Andrés!) We prioritized fun, hiked at moderate paces, and chatted the whole way. He let me talk through the challenges of being a parent, partner, and climber. I called Remy and John every morning and night and was equally excited to see them. The pressure I had felt—about what constitutes “real” climbing, about climbing defining me, about whether climbing made me a bad mom—began to relax. By giving myself room to do the thing I loved, I loved being a mom even more. And by being a mom, I didn’t have to let climbing determine my entire worth.

Making room for this new identity over the last year has been challenging and fraught with self-doubt. I can’t put everything into climbing anymore, so things have had to change, but mostly for

the better. I’ve had to learn to be kinder to myself if I’m not training or climbing as hard as I would like—because I’m also teaching Remy to walk and how to go down the slide; and comforting him when he’s sick or devastated he can’t eat the dog’s food. While there are moments of FOMO (fear of missing out), climbing trips now feel ultra special. Their rarity makes each one a gift that I no longer take for granted. I don’t have the mental and emotional space for hard and scary routes. I focus on fun now, and I’m not bothered by being a toprope hero anymore. Motherhood has made me less afraid of what others might think, and I judge myself less harshly because there’s simply not room for it in my brain anymore as I juggle everything else. For that, I am so grateful.

And with the perspective of a year of motherhood, and a decade and a half of climbing, I can see this is all a phase anyway. I may climb more or less in the future, depending on how our family grows and Remy’s interests develop. And while I hope to someday swing leads in the mountains with Remy, I’ll be happy if he can find what makes him come alive like climbing does for me. Even if it’s not climbing.

Remy goes to the gym, 2023

Climbing in Red Rocks, 2024.

BROKEN GLASS: LOSING GEAR BUT FINDING COMMUNITY

by Nick Hankins

The night we had our Mazama Advanced Rock graduation dinner at the Hawthorne Food Carts Pod, I lugged my hiking backpack, a normal backpack, a climbing rope, climbing gear, a guitar and clarinet, and bags of power tools from my car into the pod, no doubt looking like a madman. It was standard behavior for me, with my trust issues of urban life (no secret why I prefer the woods and mountains!). I’ve had too many friends stripped of photography equipment, climbing gear, and valuables of all kinds with astonishing speed when they’d left their car briefly unattended.

But being smart once is never enough. Earlier this year I lost far more gear than I dragged in that night, in a situation where alarm bells should have been clanging in my head.

We’ve all seen the piles of shattered glass in parking spots and trailheads, cautioning us about walking away from our vehicles at all, let alone for hours-long hikes or backpacks. It always feels like a gamble. Should we just leave our doors unlocked and windows rolled down? It’s so hard to have a car and not leave a few valuables and essentials in it at all times. It’s impractical to take literally every item out of it every time you walk away from your car. But we’d been targeted.

The night we walked away from our car on NW 13th, we’d climbed at the gym, then were heading to a restaurant happy hour. My housemate drove her Bronco, but I had motorcycled there, so needed to secure my gear. For some reason I resisted the overloaded madman routine and opted to stash my gear in her Bronco; we covered it with a black towel, despite it being already invisible through the dark-tinted windows.

A man who might be charitably described as a bit sketchy was leaning against the passenger door of a car next to the Bronco. He started chatting me up about my motorcycle, and about all the motorcycles he’d owned in the past. He made us nervous, but we did our best to reserve judgment. While we chatted, he watched the Bronco get loaded up

with valuables. We parted with a friendly goodbye and headed toward the restaurant, me on the motorcycle, my friends on foot.

A moment later we heard a car alarm go off, and I saw my friends turn around. The man innocently yelled to them, “Oh, is that one of your vehicles? I think the alarm was set off!” It was suspicious enough that I almost drove back when they walked back to turn off the alarm on our friend’s car, parked next to the Bronco. I called them and they explained, assuming the alarm had gone off accidentally.

When we got back from the restaurant the man’s car was gone, an empty space next to the Bronco, its window smashed and stripped of our gear. Even the black towel was gone. The thief had inflicted maximum damage: breaking the window, cutting through the softtop fabric, and scratching the paint in multiple places.

Faced with someone so suspicious, we’d made a very expensive mistake: trying not to offend and pre-judge the man, we’d opted to not take our stuff with us.

That night, my friend and I filed a police report, which required us to take a detailed inventory of everything that was stolen. It was a lot. I had gear in my hiking backpack for whatever Mazama classes I was doing, plus gear for outdoor climbing the day before.

I wrote a brief description of what happened with a list of gear that was stolen and a few photos, and I posted it on various social media sites: ClimbPDX, ClimbPDX Partner Finder, Movement’s Partner Board, Facebook groups, in the Climbin’ Frens Discord Server that I manage, and in our Mazama Slack Workspace.

The local Facebook climbing communities are top-notch, and include members and moderators who regularly check online sources like Facebook Marketplace, OfferUp, Craigslist, and eBay, both as certified climbing gear hoarders themselves and because they’re vigilantly

on the lookout for suspicious listings. They can easily pick out the signs of stolen gear: sellers who are suspiciously ignorant about climbing, give generic descriptions (“rope”), know nothing of the gear’s history, offer a random price, or respond with odd communications. Most listings will also have comment functions turned off, so the seller cannot be “outed” directly on their posting.

I also had an enlightening talk with a pawn shop owner in the area of the breakin. He told me he lives near the climbing gym and is very familiar with the break-in problem around there. Pawn shops, he explained, both maintain privacy for those who pawn goods and maintain a detailed database of all the goods they intake. That database is accessible to the police, and the police have a dedicated team that regularly cross-references stolen goods listed in police reports against the pawn shop databases.

A likely scenario for my gear, he said, was that the thief took it straight to a drug dealer, who gave him some amount of drugs for its value. The gear would then

Trashed Jeep, 2022. Photo: Nick Hankins

get passed off and traded several times on the street, barter style, while still “hot” (recently stolen).

Eventually, the gear might end up in a pawn shop but that’s unlikely because it’s specialized equipment, they require ID, and the police are monitoring the database. More likely, the goods end up on online marketplaces in a month or two, but that’s not guaranteed. He suggested that most of it may just end up in the trash, or used by individuals to fortify their temporary shelters along the streets.

Getting your gear stolen sucks. Having anything stolen sucks. I spent a month monitoring four marketplace sites but never saw anything. I also drove the streets looking for the thief’s car—not the safest idea, so maybe it’s good nothing came of that either. But a few things happened that helped restore my faith in humanity.

First, the support and many helpful messages from online climber communities

Hit the Wonderland Trail

Hike Mount Rainier’s premier trail with expert guidance from the new edition of Hiking the Wonderland Trail and Green Trails map No. 269SX. Available where books are sold or online at mountaineersbooks.org.

was truly gratifying—thank you all! Several climbing friends helped me replace gear using various brand discounts, and some Mazama friends even donated used gear to

me. One of the kindest offerings was a Mazama friend who knew that I had lost my coveted BD Magnetron lockers, which are really hard to come by. She had gifted one to a friend long ago, and her friend wasn’t climbing much, so she regifted it to me as a wonderful surprise one day.

A few months after the theft, I got a text message from a stranger who had found my McMenamins passport (a valuable discount card), which had been tucked in with my gear. He found it in a distant apartment parking lot southeast of Portland. No gear, but an interesting turn of events.

And finally: all the slings and cords I lost were long past their recommended retirement date. So it’s possible this guy actually saved my life by force-retiring my soft goods.

Don’t leave valuables in your car in or around Portland!

Hiking the Wonderland Trail, 2nd Edition produced with support from the Port of Seattle - Tourism Marketing Support Program

Gear for sale on OfferUp, 2022. Photo: Nick Hankins

MAZAMA BASE CAMP 2024–2025 PROGRAM

Base Camp evening programs are back! After a very successful (re)inaugural season in 2023, we’re very excited to bring back another season of events at the MMC for both the Mazamas and members of our community. In the spirit of community, Base Camp events are free of charge and open to all. A donation box will be available to support speaker travel. All Base Camp events are on Wednesdays from 6:30–8:30 p.m. unless noted otherwise.

SEPTEMBER 11: ALPINE SYMPHONY

Join us at the MMC for a panel and Q&A with members of the Oregon Symphony to discuss the intersection of climbing and music. The Symphony will be premiering Strauss’ An Alpine Symphony from Sept 21-23, a piece that was inspired by Richard Strauss’ own love of the mountains. Tickets for An Alpine Symphony are available at the Oregon Symphony website.

NOVEMBER 7: CASCADE GEOLOGY

Curious about the geology and history behind the many mountains we climb? Join us for a talk about the history and changes of Oregon and Washington’s volcanos and the mysteries they still hold.

Lee Florea is an avid outdoorsman and currently the manager for the WA DNR’s Earth Resource Program.

OCTOBER 9: MOUNTAINEERING–THE FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, 10TH EDITION

First published in 1960 and one of the most definitive guides ever written, the Mountaineers Freedom of the Hills can be found on almost every mountaineer, climber, or alpine explorer’s bookshelves. In 2024, they will debut their 10th edition of the book. Join us at the MMC for a talk and Q&A with the contributors and celebrate the impact that book has had on the outdoor community.

NOVEMBER 13: ANTARCTIC CIRCUMNAVIGATION

Presented by Mazama Richard Stellner, this presentation will focus on an adventure taken around the Antarctic via a French Icebreaker! Within are descriptions and visuals of the southern hemisphere’s vast glaciers, icy waters, and wildlife (including lots of penguins!)

OCTOBER 23: BIRD ALLIANCE/NW FOREST PLAN

Join the Bird Alliance of Oregon for a talk on the proposed NW Forest Plan. Learn why this amendment process matters and how you can contribute. The Northwest Forest Plan, established in 1994, governs 24.5 million acres in western Oregon, Washington, and California. For the first time in 30 years, the Forest Service is amending the plan, which presents both opportunities to strengthen or weaken habitat protections.

DECEMBER 4: MT. HOOD FILMS NIGHT–CABIN IN THE SKY & RANGER: CANINE ALPINIST

Join us for the screening of two short films and a Q&A with the filmmakers! Cabin In the Sky: Chronicles the history of the old fire lookout at Mt. Hood’s summit and its impact.

Ranger: Canine Alpinist: An 8-minute documentary about Ranger, an Alsatian Shepherd who climbed Mt. Hood over 500 times in the 1920s and 1930s.

BOOK REVIEW

Climbing Self-Rescue–Essential Skills, Technical Tips and Improvised Solutions

by Ian Nicholson

by Damon Greenshields & Angelique Brown

How much has climbing self-rescue changed in the last two decades? We decided to find out. Ian Nicholson, IFMGA Mountain Guide, recently released a new edition of Climbing Self-Rescue: Essential Skills, Technical Tips, and Improvised Solutions. The previous version, written by Molly Loomis and Andy Tyson, was released in 2006. We read both editions and found some unique updates! While the fundamentals remain the same, the new edition offers modern insights, relatable examples from real-life events, and improved illustrations and organization.

Generally speaking, any edition of this manual will address key skills including escaping the belay, lowering a climber, dealing with a stuck rope, and improvising a rope ascension system. Some particular differences of note between the 2024 edition and the 2006 edition include:

■ The addition of an entire chapter on improvised ascension and aid-climbing, which can apply to many rescue scenarios.

■ The addition of detailed rescue techniques related to multiple “rescue a leader” situations, such as rescuing a leader when more than 50 percent of the rope is out and rescuing a leader through a traverse.

■ Up-to-date discussion of modern technology (satellite communicators, weather forecasting, helicopter rescue, etc.).

■ Rescue techniques are considered with both tubular belay devices and Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs), compared to only tubular devices in the previous edition.

■ The use of higher-quality colored photographs, compared to black-andwhite photos and cartoon drawings.

■ Chapters are slightly reformatted, resulting in a more logical flow with information that builds on previous sections.

■ The addition of “tips” sections throughout the chapters, which provide pertinent information, compared to the old edition which was more jumbled in this regard.

■ Increased emphasis on different belay devices and anchor types.

■ The addition of short essays and reallife rescue reports from well-known community members throughout the manual.

■ Fewer practice rescue scenarios (10 scenarios in the new edition versus 29 in the old).

Overall, we found that this new version is more readable and seems to align better with current industry standards. Climbers looking to deepen their knowledge and stay up-to-date with the latest tools and techniques will find this edition to be an invaluable resource. We rate this book a must-buy!

MAZAMAS CLIMB!

Photocollage of Mazamas climbing, with submissions from: Riley Arner, Ali Gray, James Jula, Maureen O’Hagan, Ryan Reed, Brendan Scanlan, Jen Travers, and the Advanced Rock Committee.

MILESTONES IN OREGON CLIMBING

by Ryan Reed

“T

he bad news,” Jeff Thomas responded to a request for input on the history of Oregon rock climbing, “is that the Mazamas had little to do with developing modern rock climbing …There is not a single significant rock climb I can think of from the 1910s to the 1980s that

was sponsored or supported by the organization.”

And Jeff should know. After leading the free-climbing revolution at Smith Rock in the 1970s, pushing local grades from the 5.10s into the 5.11s with daring ascents on little more than nuts and guts, and publishing the ground-breaking guidebooks Oregon Rock and Oregon High, he became a Mazama in 1985—in part to use the library. He later served as the organization’s archivist.

Timeline of Oregon Climbing

Steamboat captain Frank J. Smith, Charles Church, and George Purser (who seems to have had the mountaineering chops) ascend Beacon Rock, drilling steel rods into the cliff face. When the rods were rediscovered in the 1990s, the route was christened the Spike Route.

Mazama Raymond Conway, a “scaler of vertical rock pinnacles by the ‘bare hands’ method,” ascends the West Arete of illumination Rock on Mt. Hood

A Mazama party of 47 climbs Beacon Rock.

Conway makes the first known climb of Rooster Rock as part of festivities celebrating the Larch Mountain trail. He leads many climbs and pioneers the use of fixed protection, harnesses, and belays. He also allows women to free solo “against the advice of older Mazama leaders.”

Henry Biddle buys Beacon Rock to spare it from quarrying, and builds the trail to its top.

And it’s true. The revolutions in rock climbing between the 1960s and 1980s began in places like California, and talented Oregon climbers tended to leave our chossy cliffs for sturdier rock. Mazama training focused on “boot” climbing—ascending mountains by the easiest path—and the Advanced Climbing School only came into being in the mid-1960s. More to the point, an organization known for most of the 20th century for its well-stocked annual gatherings, massive summit parties, and penchant for group singalongs wasn’t well-positioned to support the renegade,

Members of the elite Wy’east Climbers club travel to Smith Rock, leaving behind pitons on various pinnacles but no records of their visit.

A Mazama team (Glen Asher, Everett and Ida Darr, Joe Leuthold, Eldon Metzger, and Jim Mount) climbs St. Peter’s Dome in the Gorge, reputedly the hardest aid ascent in North America at the time. They remove tons of rock clearing the path

The Columns in Skinner Butte Park become a training ground for Eugene climbers. Eugene-raised Willi Unsoeld, future Everest summiteer, freeclimbs area crags up to 5.8.

The newly formalized Mazama climbing school (predecessor of Basic School) practices rappelling and climbing at Rocky Butte and Chimney Rocks high above Washougal.

individualistic enterprise that was rock climbing.

And yet...at every stage of the rock climbing story in Oregon, the Mazamas is often just out of frame. Its members explored the backcountry for hidden crags and made many first ascents; their reports and early guidebooks were often published in the Mazama Annual. Ground-breaking climbers like Ray Conway, Joe Leuthold, Gil and Vivian Staender, Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Jim Nieland, Bob Martin, and Bob McGown were all active members.

Today our organization still brims with terrific climbers, and our training programs have progressed to become firstrate climbing schools teaching up-to-date methods. If we still don’t directly support many rock climbs, that has more to do with the nature of climbing than an institutional bias.

Someday a true history of Oregon climbing will be written. In the meantime, enjoy a select list of milestones.

First ascents of the classic multi-pitch SE Corner on Beacon Rock. Mazama Fred Gullette, then a Reed College student, frees the route just days after John Ohrenschall aid-climbs a variation.

Mazamas Vivian and Gil Staender begin regular visits to Smith Rock, climbing many of the pinnacles in what now is called Staender Ridge. Vivian is the stronger climber.

Mazama Jack Grauer identifies Horsethief Butte as ideal for climbing instruction to replace the difficult-to-access Chimney Rocks; Mazama climbing schools begin using the area in 1959.

Climber’s Guide to the Columbia Gorge by Carl Neuburger is published in the Mazama Annual, listing a few dozen climbs.

First ascent of Monkey Face by a Mazama team (Vivian Staender, Dave Bohn, and Jim Fraser); their account, published in the Mazama Annual, draws attention to Smith Rock.

Mazama Eugene Dod, wearing “sloppy fisherman’s boots,” climbs the first pitch of Dod’s Jam on Beacon Rock with Bob Martin and Earl Levin.

Jim Ramsey frees The Awl (5.10c), the beginning of serious free climbing at Smith Rock. 1962

Climber’s Guide to Smith Rocks, by Vivian Staender, Jim Ramsey, and Jarold Ramsey, is published in the Mazama Annual.

Mazama Roger Peyton aid-climbs the face that, 24 years later, will become famous as To Bolt or Not to Be.

Mazama George Cummings climbs Rattlesnake Chimney, the first ascent in the Dihedrals area of Smith Rock.

Dave Jensen and Bob Martin pioneer a route on the Southwest Corner of Beacon Rock as an official Mazama climb, following Everest climber Jim Whittaker’s intervention with Washington State Park officials to allow climbing in a banned area.

Mazama Advanced Climbing School begins, with both rock and snow/ice instruction. Dave Jensen, Jim Nieland, and Bob Milius are the primary instructors.

The Mazama Annual includes accounts of climbs of Turkey Monster (by Eugene Dod), Stein’s Pillar (by Will Pratt), and The Monument at Smith Rock (by Ted Davis); All are nonofficial climbs.

A Mazama team uses a bow and arrow trailing a nylon cord to ascend the unclimbed summit pinnacle of the Smith Rock Group.

The first free ascent of Gandalf’s Grip (5.9+), at Broughton Bluff, by Steve Strauch and Jim O’Connell.

Mazama Nick Dodge publishes A Climber’s Guide to Oregon, with mountain as well as rock routes, including 64 at Smith Rock

Mazamas David Jensen and George Cummings are the first to ascend Sky Ridge at Smith Rock. Jensen rappel-bolts the 5.10c Sky Dive pitch, likely Smith Rock’s first rapbolted route.

Tom and Bob Bauman free a 5.10 multi-pitch on North Rabbit Ear, in the Menagerie near Sweet Home, placing bolts on lead. The climb is “runout, rotten, dirty, and the FA was done with no harness, no fixed pro, and in hiking shoes.”

Jeff Thomas frees Brain Salad Surgery at Smith Rock, Oregon’s first 5.11.

Brian Holcomb transforms the Mazama Advanced Climbing School to emphasize lead climbing on rock.

Jeff Thomas frees Wartley’s Revenge (5.11a) at Smith Rock, hanging on the rope to work out the crux sequence, effectively making hangdogging permissible at Smith Rock.

Chris Jones and Bill Ramsey make the first free ascent of Monkey Face.

1982–84

Alan Watts, having climbed all the trad routes at Smith Rock, turns to its unclimbed faces. He begins pre-cleaning, rap-bolting, and hangdogging to pioneer American sport climbing.

Jeff Thomas publishes Oregon Rock, with descriptions of 370 climbs at Broughton Bluff, Beacon Rock, and Smith Rock.

Doug Philips starts Metolius Climbing in his garage in Bend, serving and employing local Smith Rock climbers to manufacture cams, climbing holds, crash pads, and other climbing gear.

Jim Opdyke spots the cliffs that will become Ozone and Far Side; he and friends develop routes there, but keep it secret for more than 20 years. 1984

Mountain magazine features Alan Watts on the overhanging crux of Chain Reaction (5.12c) at Smith Rock, one of the most iconic photos in rock climbing history, on its cover. Virtually the same image is later featured on a 1993 Newsweek cover and the Clif bar.

French visitor J.B. Tribout frees To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith Rock, America’s first 5.14.

Smith Rock is the epicenter of high-end sport climbing in the U.S., if not the world.

Mazama Basic School grad Gary Rall founds Portland Rock Gym, the nation’s second indoor rock climbing gym.

Battery-powered drills shorten the time to drill a bolt from 45 minutes to three. Bolted routes proliferate.

Tim Olson publishes Portland Rock Climbs 1st Edition.

Ryan Lawson (Cafferky), working at Smith Rock with various partners, develops moderate sport multi-pitch classics Living Blindly, Birds in a Rut, Wherever I May Roam, and First Kiss, along with dozens of 5.7–5.11 single-pitch routes.

In response to Clackamas County plans to turn the local crag into roadbed gravel, Mazama Keith Daellenbach and other climbers form the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee. The Mazamas and other organizations provide financial support.

Ozone becomes public knowledge.

Planet Granite, Portland’s second full-sized climbing gym, opens in the Pearl District, signaling climbing’s attraction for the young and hip. It later becomes Movement.

After nearly 20 years of closure, Madrone Wall reopens to the public, including climbers, as a Clackamas County park.

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell become household names, climbing becomes an Olympic sport, and climbing imagery becomes an advertising cliché.

Pleasure Cruise (seven pitches, 5.9) joins the select ranks of multi-pitch climbs that reach the summit of Beacon Rock.

Sources for this timeline include Mazama Annuals and other publications, guidebooks by Alan Watts and Tim Olson, and Jeff Thomas and Ned Thanhouser’s films Oregon Rock: The Pioneers and Beacon Rock: Then and Now.

TO BOLT OR NOT TO BE: ON THE FUTURE OF CLIMBING ETHICS

by Topher Dobrowski, with Ryan Reed

To the casual sport climber, debates around climbing and route development ethics might seem arcane. Arguments of the past revolved around issues like clean climbing, bolting on rappel, hangdogging, and even whether bolted sport routes should exist. We had a few decades of bolt wars, with the iconoclasts drilling bolts and traditionalists chopping them, and, well, bolts won. Right?

In fact, the bolt wars just shifted a bit and went more underground. Since the 1990s, the focus has been on whether, and when, installing bolts on existing routes—“retro-bolting”—is appropriate, permissible, and ethical.

The motivation to retro-bolt is typically to eliminate a runout—a gap in the protection—that creates an unacceptable risk. There are some areas of the world— Europe and Canada—where retro-bolting generates few objections. But in the U.S., toss the term into a room full of serious climbers and you’re liable to start a verbal fistfight. Risk is integral to the experience of climbing, some will argue; should we “grid-bolt” crags, treating our climbs the way we would a sidewalk tripping hazard? On the other side, there are plenty of accidents, from minor to horrific, where a long runout led to injury if not tragedy.

As an active route developer, I was curious about our local climbing culture, and what attitudes currently prevail among climbers of different experiences. I wanted to lay out the arguments on each side, and posted much of what follows on social media for local climber input.

Several points on the resulting comments: no one objected to upgrading existing bolts one-for-one (“rebolting”). No one objected to installing bolted anchors at the top of climbs, even where this made the climb less difficult. Route developers added

some thoughts on cases where adding bolts was justified due to changes in a rockface. There were climbers on each side of the central retro-bolting issue, but the debate did not raise any major additions to the ideas outlined below.

First, a quick word on local ethics. Crags in the Portland area were developed at different times by overlapping groups of climbers, and do not all share the same standards. At Beacon Rock, a fairly strict traditional ethic held sway: ground-up ascents only, all gear placed on lead, frequent runouts, and minimal bolting. The routes of Rocky Butte, on the other hand, often require access via rappel, so toproping and installing protection on rappel came more naturally.

Although there are many fully-bolted sport routes at local crags, many include climbs that require, or allow for, trad gear to be placed where it can be placed, e.g., where a face climb crosses near a crack. The gap in bolts may be because the route developer, in the pre-electric drill era, wanted to minimize the time and effort of hand-drilling, or because they considered drilling rock something to minimize and a mixed route to be acceptable. In either case, it’s not uncommon to see a climber at a crag like Ozone, equipped only with quickdraws, confounded by a route where a trad placement would have prevented a long runout.

The Traditionalist Ethic

Back when there were relatively few climbers, a first ascent (FA) of a climb was generally a celebrated event, and the style with which a party made that first ascent set a precedent for subsequent ascents. At the same time, any gear that was placed permanently on a route, such as a piton or a bolt, was generally accepted but additional fixed protection could not be added except by the FA party members. This ethic—that only a first ascensionist can add new bolts to a rock climb—is rooted in respect for the original vision, efforts, and style of the person who first climbed the route. Here are some reasons for this climbing ethic:

■ Respect for the first ascensionist’s vision. The first ascensionist usually

has a specific vision for the route, including how it should be protected. This vision reflects their preferred climbing style, skills, and interpretation of the rock. Adding bolts without their permission can alter the route’s character and undermine their intentions.

■ Preservation of the challenge. Climbing routes often have unique challenges, including how they are protected. Being on the sharp end of a higher-risk route is a unique experience that heightens the mental challenge of climbing. The number and placement of bolts can significantly affect the route’s difficulty and risk. Allowing only the first ascensionist to add bolts ensures that the original challenge is preserved for future climbers.

■ Consistency in style. The first ascensionist’s style sets a precedent for how the route should be climbed and protected. This includes whether the route should be bolted, partially bolted, or left as a traditional (trad) climb. Maintaining consistency in style respects the climbing community’s diverse approaches to climbing.

■ Ethical considerations. In climbing, there’s a strong emphasis on maintaining ethical standards. Unauthorized bolting is seen as a breach of these ethics and can lead to conflicts within the climbing community. This ethic helps prevent the proliferation of bolts on routes where they may not be appropriate. If we don’t follow this ethic then what is to say that any person could modify any route to their liking? Where would this practice have a limit?

■ Environmental impact. Adding bolts impacts the rock and surrounding environment. Limiting bolting to the first ascensionist helps minimize unnecessary environmental damage, ensuring that decisions about bolt placement are made with consideration and knowledge of the route.

■ Cultural norms and traditions. Climbing has a rich tradition and culture that values the history of ascents and the contributions of

early climbers. Respecting the first ascensionist’s decisions about bolting is part of honoring these traditions.

■ Local climbing ethics. Different climbing areas often have their own specific ethics and agreements about bolting, usually reflecting the community’s collective values. Respecting these local ethics helps maintain harmony and order among climbers.

The Case For Retro-Bolting

A number of arguments can be made against the traditionalist ethic. These counterarguments often center on issues of safety, accessibility, and evolving climbing standards.

■ Improved safety

□ Advances in equipment: Modern climbing equipment and techniques have improved significantly, making it possible to bolt routes more safely and effectively than in the past.

□ Reduction of risk: Adding bolts can reduce the risk of serious injury or death on climbs that have become popular but remain poorly protected, particularly on routes where natural protection is inadequate.

■ Accessibility for a broader range of climbers

□ Inclusive climbing experience: Additional bolts can make a climb accessible to a broader range of climbers, including beginners or those who may not be comfortable with the risks associated with poorly protected routes.

□ Accommodating changing demographics: The climbing community has grown and diversified, with many new climbers seeking safe, wellprotected routes. More bolts can help accommodate these changing demographics.

■ Evolution of climbing standards

□ Changing ethics: Climbing ethics and standards evolve over time. What was considered acceptable or ideal during the FA may no longer reflect the current norms or expectations of the climbing community.

□ Adapting to new styles: The climbing style of the FA might not

align with modern sport climbing preferences, where more frequent bolt placements are the norm to provide safer falls.

■ Maintenance and route upkeep

□ Route preservation: Over time, routes may degrade or become unsafe due to worn-out protection or environmental factors. Adding bolts can be necessary for maintaining the safety and quality of the route.

□ Prevention of accidents: In cases where old protection has deteriorated, adding new bolts might be crucial to prevent accidents or injuries, especially on popular or frequently climbed routes. Relocation of bolts may also afford better protection as some of these considerations may not have been taken into account by previous route setters and first ascensionists. This would depend on their skill level and ability to understand clipping positions, fall distances, fall vectors, etc.

■ Community consensus and popular use

□ High-traffic routes: On popular routes, climbers’ consensus might favor adding bolts to ensure the route can safely accommodate high traffic and reduce wear and tear on natural placements.

□ Local ethics: In some climbing areas, the local climbing community may develop a consensus that supports bolting for safety and accessibility, even if it means altering the FA’s original vision.

■ Environmental and climatic changes

□ Changing rock conditions: Environmental changes, such as rock erosion or shifts in weather patterns, might alter the safety of a route over time. Additional bolts may be required to adapt to these new conditions.

□ Wildlife impact: Bolt placements may need adjustment if natural protection or the original bolting affects wildlife or plant life on or near the route.

■ Balancing tradition with modern climbing needs

□ Historic routes vs. modern use: While preserving the FA’s vision is important, there’s a need

to balance historical climbing practices with contemporary safety standards and the current climbing community’s needs.

□ Dynamic climbing culture: Climbing is a dynamic and evolving sport. Ethics that rigidly adhere to past practices might hinder the sport’s growth and adaptation to new realities.

How this debate plays out over the coming decades will depend on individual actors, collective actions, and land managers. Individual route developers have and will continue to act independently, installing or occasionally chopping bolts as they see fit. Developers typically work independently, so in practical terms, this is often how ethics are enforced or changed. If these actions attract too much attention, however, they can sometimes provoke land managers to close or restrict climbing access.

The “climbing community” has long been a useful abstraction, but organizations such as the Portland Area Climbers Coalition (PACC) are establishing relationships with governmental and other land managers to speak for local climbers and to an extent monitor route development. At Smith Rock, the climber stewardship organization Smith Rock Group has a sterling reputation with the State Park officials, and had substantial input into the new park management plan. This may be a model for Portland-area stewardship.

Ultimately, climbing almost always occurs on someone else’s land. Public officials have a veto over the ethics that prevail at Beacon Rock, or Smith Rock, or any public area; if a rule goes into effect that all climbing routes have no more than eight feet between bolts, or banning bolting entirely, all our ethical debates over respecting the first ascensionist’s vision become pointless.

CLIMBING STEWARDSHIP & THE PORTLAND AREA CLIMBERS COALITION

by Mark Daverin, Chairman, PACC

The Portland Area Climbers Coalition (PACC) is an all-volunteer 501(c)3 whose mission is “to make Portland a better place to climb through advocacy, stewardship, and education.” So, what does that mean?

PACC strives to keep our local climbing areas accessible and alive. Much like a garden, climbing areas need a certain amount of maintenance and love. PACC leverages the power of the local climbing community and our partnerships with the Access Fund and the American Safe Climbing Association to accomplish more than any one individual can. Our focus is on rebolting, trailwork, and access.

What is the “Portland area” and what does stewardship look like for us? We consider any climbing within about a 2-hour drive from the Portland metro area to be under our umbrella. And in that area, there is an amazing amount of high-quality climbing, from moderate multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.14 sport climbs, snow climbs, ice climbs, and mountaineering. The Portland area is home to more than 1,500 named rock climbs and thousands of boulder problems spread over 50 named crags and dozens of bouldering areas.

No one knows exactly how many people identify as climbers in the Portland metro area or how many people travel here to climb. A rough count gives us nine public climbing gyms and five major private walls. Combine that with the incredibly diverse nature of our climbing and it’s hard to appreciate exactly what’s going on out there. If a person only climbs at one crag or on Mt. Hood or, as is quite common, in the gym and at Smith Rock, then it might be eye-opening to see the traffic at some of our local crags. We have year-round outdoor rock climbing, and people make use of that every chance they get. Some crags also see heavy traffic with school groups, camps,

guide services, and non-profits (looking at you, Mazamas!). Historically, climbing stewardship has been taken care of by the climbers who were at the wall climbing. If there was a loose bolt or piece of rock, that would get taken care of. This works when dealing with small problems that are easy to fix. Once you start dealing with whole areas being rebolted because the hardware is past its useful lifespan, or rerouting trails or coming up with climbing management plans with government agencies, then it’s incredibly advantageous to have a collective voice, not to mention collective physical muscle! It’s also great for our land managers and our climbing community to have a point of contact for maintenance and access issues. Here are some examples of work PACC has done in the past year:

■ We have replaced dozens of bolts and anchors. We strive to replace bolts on a 1-for-1 basis, meaning that we pull the old bolt out and replace it with a new bolt in the same hole. This includes replacing loose, rusted, or short bolts and worn-out anchors.

■ We held a rebolting clinic to teach best practices for replacing aging hardware.

■ We held an Adopt a Crag at Broughton Bluff with 30-plus volunteers to cut back extensive vegetation and maintain the trail, including erosion control, trail hardening, and trail rerouting.

■ We removed graffiti from Hanging Gardens at Broughton Bluff.

■ We are hard at work with Mt. Hood National Forest (MHNF) on a Memorandum of Understanding that will have many positive impacts on our local climbing.

■ We have been included in a working group to discuss the implementation of the Mt. Hood climbing permit.

We interface with other stewardship groups on a local, as well as national, level and we are continually working to stay in touch with our climbing community through our newsletter, social media, and tabling at our gym.

PACC’s greatest purpose is also the least visible—maintaining access to our local crags. We are currently working with the Forest Service to sign a Memorandum of Understanding that would greatly improve our ability to maintain existing crags in MHNF land. This will also legitimize climbing as a land use on MHNF land, helping to preserve access into the future.

Other ongoing access issues of high priority involve Rocky Butte and Ozone. This is too involved to describe here, but we will have more detailed information on our website soon.

You can find out more about PACC and sign up for our newsletter at www. oregonclimbers.org.

Mark Deverin and crag graffiti.

BULLETIN AD RATES

Altitude Training

• 10% off for all Mazamas members

• 50% off for climb leaders!

650 square ft Altitude Training room with altitudes from 10,000’ to 13,000’

Benefits of Altitude Training:

• Improved sea level or at altitude performance

• Improved aerobic fitness

• Increased strength

• Pre-acclimation to high altitude locations

• Accelerated recovery and return from injuries

• Maintenance of fitness while injured

• Increased fat metabolism

• Increased mitochondria production

• Increased energy production

• Increased capillary density

• Increased oxygen delivery

The Mazamas will be implementing a 20 percent increase in advertising rates for the Mazama Bulletin. This is the first rate increase since 2018. Despite this increase, our advertising rates remain competitive and below market rates when accounting for inflation over the past several years. Our new rates effective September 2024 are:

■ Centerfold, color $960, w/bleed +$85

■ Full page, color $510, w/bleed +$65

■ 2/3 page, color $340

■ 1/2 page, color $255

■ 1/3 page slim, color $170

■ 1/3 page square, color $170

■ 1/6 page horizontal, color $85

■ 1/6 page vertical, color $85

The Mazama Bulletin remains an excellent way to reach our engaged community of outdoor enthusiasts across the Pacific Northwest. We appreciate your continued support as an advertising partner.

TOP 10 INJURY PREVENTION TIPS FOR CLIMBERS

by April Henderson, Physical Therapist/Strength Coach

For many individuals, myself included, climbing serves as many things. It is our stress release from our job, the destination for our vacations, or a source of socialization with friends. For some, it means even more. Climbing is their source of identity, the thing that makes them who they are.

1

LIFT WEIGHTS

Injuries can serve as a devastating blow to all of these aspects, and I totally get it, having been injured a time or two myself. Some injuries are unavoidable; your foot slips on a hold and only two fingers are left on the tiny crimp, leaving you with a pulley or tendon strain. Or you’re on the way back from an awesome alpine adventure, slipping on a rock and spraining your ankle. These injuries only compose about 20 percent of total recorded climbing injuries. The vast majority (80 percent) are chronic in nature and are completely avoidable. According to data collected around the world, chronic climbing injuries most often occur in the shoulder, elbow,

Notice the all caps on this. You NEED lifting. It’s like brushing teeth, your muscle tissue absolutely needs weight training for the rest of your life to keep it healthy and functioning. Performing the same activity will lead to overuse injury, and I see this in every sport. For runners, I see this commonly in hips, knees, and ankles. For bikers, I see overuse patterns in backs, hips, and necks. For climbers, as

2

CHANGE INTENSITY

This next tip goes to those who already lift weights, but lift at the same intensity or same rep range in their lifting. Everyone needs a combination of light lifting (less than 60 percent of perceived max effort) to serve as rehab/prehab, moderate intensity (60–75 percent of perceived max effort) to build a base, and heavy (85-plus percent perceived max effort) to push strength. As a strength and conditioning coach, we would manipulate the percentages depending on whether a team or athlete was in-season or off-season. For climbers during the inseason or when climbing outdoors more, the recommendation would be to lift at least two times per week with light prehab intensity (less than 60 percent of max) for any injury you may have, and moderate-intensity lifts to maintain a base (approximately 60–75 percent of max). For off-season, lifting sessions can increase to three to four times per week, and incorporate more moderate and max-level intensity to increase your strength and sending potential.

wrist, and fingers. Research has shown that most climbers return to climbing before the injury is completely healed, or have longer lasting pain associated with the injury. I see these often in the physical therapy (PT) clinic, and from my experience as a strength and conditioning coach turned physical therapist, here are the top 10 most common tips I give to patients. I mean this in the best of ways, but I really do not want to see any of you climbers there, so make sure you warm up, get your sleep and protein, lift weights, and take your rest week. Happy sending!

mentioned previously, overuse patterns are mostly in shoulders, elbows, wrists, and fingers. Lifting increases musculoskeletal recruitment and prevents overuse burnout in muscle tissue. It also prevents the normal aging processes of sarcopenia (muscle tissue loss), and osteopenia (bone density loss) that start to increase after the age of 27. Activity will certainly help to prevent some of this, however not as effectively as weight training.

3

TAKE A REST

This is a concept that is starting to become more mainstream, and I’m really glad it is coming around. For athletes, we would introduce a taper week every four to six weeks. Strength coaches during the taper would cut percentages to below 50 percent for weights, or change the activity completely. For climbers, it is good to reduce your climbing for a week and cross-train with swimming or biking at low intensity. This is great for nervous system activity and the regeneration of overused muscles.

4

EAT PROTEIN!

A recent article by some researchers associated with Lattice found that, on average, climbers (both men and women) need to be eating 1.2–1.8 grams of protein per kilogram of bodyweight per day for optimal recovery and strength gains. For example, a 150-pound person (68 kilograms) needs to be eating 82 grams of protein per day at minimum. That’s at least 25 grams of protein per meal, and much more than the average climber was eating in the study. Your muscle tissue requires amino acids for rebuilding after activity, and if you do not have enough amino acids regularly in your system, your body will cannibalize its gains, making recovery and strength building much, much more difficult. Individuals who were eating the recommended amount had more lean body mass, lower injury rates, and were posting consistently higher strength benchmarks in pull-ups and finger strength than their counterparts who were not meeting the recommended protein amount.

5

CHANGE IT UP

All too often I will see a patient who went to PT, was provided a rehab exercise list, and then performed the same list for a year before the problem area started hurting again. Or the common active adult who does the same routine, three to five days per week, and has been for years. Your body needs change. Changing up your exercise selection is also essential to prevent overuse injury. For example, instead of doing dumbbell rows, try doing cable rows for a day. Instead of doing push-ups, try bench presses with a bar or dumbbells. Instead of biking or running as your only means of cardio, try swimming or stair climbing. Your body needs the change for increased muscle tissue recruitment and to prevent additional overuse-type injuries.

6

SLEEP

At least six to seven hours at minimum. A retrospective study was conducted that looked at the incidence of injury following different sleep levels, and those who had five hours of sleep or less were at least twice as likely to have an injury. From my time as a strength and conditioning coach, this was one of the first questions we would ask athletes if they started posting lower strength numbers. We would check in on nutrition, protein, and sleep. If they had been lacking in any of these categories, we would start a nutrition and sleep log for three days and implement a taper week if numbers were dropping a significant amount. If you start to have small injuries, aches, pains, appetite changes, or mood changes, it might be a good idea to start a threeday nutrition and sleep log to make sure you are getting a good amount of produce, protein, and sleep. Make the needed changes before small nagging injuries start growing into bigger ones.

WORKOUT TIME

More often than not, I see injuries occur at the end of a long day or long week, doing a menial task or exercise, but the body was too fatigued to handle it well. This concept was mostly studied in men, where higher strength performances were found in the morning vs. evening. Studies in women are increasing, but still lacking in overall data. My overall experience in the clinic has seen most injuries occur at the end of a long day or week. If you are feeling tired, maybe go lighter in your evening bouldering session.

7 continued on next page

Photos top to bottom: Angie Brown training at home gym; Derek Jahleka training at Movement; Brendan Scanlan training at home gym. Photos: April Henderson.

WARM UP

I hate to break it to you all, but climbing a lowergrade climb or boulder is not what I recommend for warm-up. ESPECIALLY if you have a previous injury. Your joint, muscle tissue, and bone all have receptors that provide feedback to the brain on how much incoming force that tissue can handle, its position in space, and tension. An injury reduces the feedback provided to the brain from the injured tissue, causes the mechanoreceptors themselves to be more sluggish to respond to stimuli, and reduces the accuracy of the feedback itself. A low-grade warm-up involving lighter exercise to the injured joint or muscle enhances the feedback loop between brain and muscle tissue, and allows more accurate information to be relayed from these receptors. This, in turn, increases musculoskeletal recruitment and greatly reduces the risk of re-injury. Studies in recent years have shown light lifting or rehab-level weight to be much more effective at preventing injury and increasing range of motion than passive stretching. Think also of your job—what type of exercise is your upper body performing all day? For most occupations, arms are at rest or pretty stationary. The jump in force applied to your shoulders, elbows, and hands with climbing is a significant increase and needs to be met with force that is not full bodyweight hanging from a jug on the warm-up 5.7 or 5.9 for a climbing night. This concept applies to all regions of your body. If you have a previous hip injury, a warm-up should focus on light hip exercise prior to climbing. If you have a previous back injury that’s still nagging a little, you should absolutely warm up your back before activity. A little warm-up goes a long way and is drilled into all my patients (sorry y’all).

DON’T COMPARE TO OTHERS

It’s very easy to lose the joy of climbing a bit when you feel everyone around you is sending or crushing hard climbs, and you are still struggling with A, B, or C. This is another reason why I love the training aspect of climbing. It’s your numbers against your own, your strength and endurance against no one but yours. There are physical benchmarks for climbing that involve finger strength, forearm endurance, number of pull-ups, and core strength. I suggest to those wanting to start training for injury prevention and performance to download the free Crimpd app and take a climbing test or two. There are many, many out there, some of the more popular are the Lattice free “my fingers” test and the 9c test. There are also a few assessments on Lattice that can compare your strength to average norms required to send a certain grade (I believe the tests are $35 these days). See what is a weak point and start training. There are programs available on the Crimpd app that can guide you in this. I was fortunate enough to have five Mazama members volunteer to try some of these programs, combined with some training research I was exploring (Angie Brown, Derek Jahelka, Brendan and Alyssa Scanlan, Greg Luckeroth). All members saw great results, and some provided feedback that climbing was more enjoyable, as it has added another dimension to providing physical goals to push their climbing performance.

MIND YOUR INJURIES

Climbing involves many parts, all of which contribute to your climbing performance. There may come a time when you are sidelined for a bit due to an injury. My advice is to take the time to focus on your next weakest link, and train the heck out of it. I’ll use myself as an example for this one. Back in March, I was doing a tough move on a small crimp over and over again on a problem, and ended up breaking my left index finger. Climbing with three fingers on my left hand wasn’t impossible, but wasn’t necessarily great either. Finger strength and forearm endurance were always my weakest links, so during my time off the wall I worked on my finger strength with fingerboard pulls from the floor, working at about 80 percent of my tested max on my right hand, and scaled way back to work on my three-finger strength on my left hand. It was pretty telling how much I relied on my index finger for overall crimping, and at the end of my four-month-or-so wait, my three-finger strength was at an all-time high. After a few weeks of hand PT for my broken finger, I could hit the ground running again with some new confidence in my finger and forearm strength. This concept applies to all body parts. If you hurt your ankle or knee, take the time to work on your core strength, or finger strength with hangboarding. If you hurt your back, work on forearm strength and endurance with the forearm roller and add weight (these can be found at Movement and the Beaverton Portland Rock Gym). There is always another body part that can use some extra training and focus during a time of injury. If you need help with this, you can reach out to a physical therapist with a knowledge of climbing.

April

Henderson is an outpatient orthopedic physical therapist who works at OHSU and Laika Animation studio. She was born and raised in Kentucky, where her love for climbing started in the Red River Gorge 11 years ago. Prior to her physical therapy career, April was a Strength and Conditioning Coach working with college and pro basketball, tennis, and football athletes.

April has given the Advanced Rock Injury Prevention Lecture the last three years and has two good dogs named Albus Dumbledog and Finn. She loves her husband Johan, gardening, playing with her dogs, and HATES goat cheese.

ROCK CLIMBING GLOSSARY

Aid climbing: Climbing using the rope or gear to pull up or take your weight. Involves lots of gear, stamina, expertise, and defending yourself to free climbers.

ATC: A popular tube-style belay device. Never mind what it stands for.

Barn door: When a climber loses a hold or balance on one side of their body and swings out from the wall like a door.

Belay: The system that prevents a climber from falling to the ground. The belayer holds the opposite end of the rope from the climber and catches their fall.

Beta: Information about a climb of use to the climber. Beta-spray: Unsolicited beta, usually given by a male climber to anyone who will listen.

Big wall: An extended multi-pitch climb that often takes multiple days to complete.

Bolt: Metal hardware drilled into rockfaces and equipped with a hanger, allowing lead climbers to clip their rope to lessen the length of a fall. Anchors at the top of a route often use two bolts.

Bomber: Protection or a hold that is really good—what relief!

Bouldering: Climbing close to the ground and without a rope. Except highball bouldering, which is basically free soloing.

Cams, nuts, hexes: Removable gear, placed in cracks, seams, and pockets, used in trad climbing to protect against a long fall.

Crag: A cliff or climbing area, and the basis for terms like “going cragging,” “crag dog,” “Crag Rats,” etc.

Crash pad: A portable foam pad boulderers use as protection during falls. Crimp: A small edge just big enough for your fingertips; also, any annoyingly small handhold.

Crux: A route or problem’s most difficult section or sequence.

EDK: “European Death Knot”—ironically, the simplest and safest method to tie two ropes together for rappel.

FA, FFA: First ascent/ascensionist, first free ascent/ascensionist. The person(s) who first succeeded in climbing a route, or climbing the route free if there was a previous success that used aid. The source of godlike control over the future of the route. Overlaps with Route Developer.

Flash: A redpoint (see Redpoint) send on lead with beta—see how these terms stack? So silly!

Following: Being the second on a climb, where you usually have to clean (remove the gear from) the route.

Free: To climb a route using the rope only for safety—i.e. not weighting it—and not pulling on or weighting any gear.

Free solo: To climb a route having neglected to bring a rope, on purpose or otherwise.

French-free: To pull on gear to briefly aid your ascent. The French object to the term.

Grigri: A popular active-braking belay device that assists the belayer in catching a fall.

Hangdogging: Resting (“taking”) on the rope during a climb, especially a lead climb. Formerly shameful, now overused.

Heel or toe hook: Use of the heel or top of the foot on a hold; yields significant style points.

Jam: Shoving a body part–fingers, fists, feet, arms, shoulders, thighs, or hips– into a crack to ascend. Painful, but spoken of with glee by those good at it.

Jug: Big rock features that are easy to hold with your full hand.

Lead: To climb first, belayed from below and not on top-rope, clipping the rope into bolts or gear you place in the rock. Can be scary, but brings bragging rights; see Sharp End.

Nubbin: A tiny geologic bump that, particularly at Smith Rock, the climber is expected to use as a hold.

Off-width: A crack that is wider than a hand or foot but narrower than a chimney. Usually annoying, exhausting, or both to climb, but often fun in a laughing-becausethis-is-ridiculous kind of way.

Onsight: Climbing the route for the first time, on lead, with no prior knowledge, and without falling or weighting the rope.

Pinch: A rock feature the climber hopes to pinch between their fingers and thumb.

Pitch: A section of a climb between two belay points, something less than a rope length. Multi-pitch climbs stack pitches.

Placement: What a trad leader hopes to make using the gear on their rack.

Pocket: A hole in the rock where a climber may be able to fit their whole hand or just a finger—be careful with those finger tendons though!

Portable handhold: A piece of rock that your hand remains attached to but the earth does not.

Pro: Protection placed on a route, usually referring to removable gear like cams or nuts. Psychological pro: Trad gear placements of dubious value, but which make the climber feel better.

Quickdraws: Two carabiners connected by a short sling, used to clip the rope to protection.

Rack: The gear a climber chooses to bring with them when leading. Source of interminable double-entendres at the crag.

Redpoint: Free-climbing a route, on lead, without falls, after multiple attempts or practice climbs.

Route developer: Typically the same as the first ascensionist, but better suggests the hours of cleaning dirty cracks, trundling rocks, and cutting back poison oak than the fist-pumping athletics of a successful first ascent.

Runout: A section of a climb with a large gap between opportunities for protection, e.g. bolts or gear placements. Runouts are either “bold” or terrifyingly unsafe depending on a climber’s mood, and how they did on the climb.

Send: Successfully completing a climb without falling or resting on gear.

Sharp end: Leading, i.e., being on the “sharp end (of the rope),” rather than toproping or following. Climbing ropes are not sharp, but the rocks you risk hitting are.

Slab: Rock that is less than vertical and often devoid of notable holds. See smearing.

Sloper: Often-tricky holds that don’t have anything positive to hold onto. Body position and direction of pull are key.

Smearing: Using the surface of the rock as a foothold—stand and trust in rubber. Common on slab climbs.

Sport climbing: The use of bolts exclusively, typically on face climbs away from cracks.

CLIMBING GUIDEBOOKS

by Ryan Reed

Over the past 15 years, online apps have pushed climbing guidebooks to the sidelines. Many climbers now rely on an app like Mountain Project for updated access information, route conditions, and recently developed or reclaimed climbs.

PORTLAND ROCK

CLIMBS: TO THE EDGE AND BEYOND

Portland Rock Climbs (PRC) focuses on the primary crags in the Portland area: Rocky Butte, Broughton Bluff, Ozone, Far Side, Beacon Rock, Carver Cliff, and Madrone Wall, as well as French’s Dome and Salmon Slab near Mt. Hood. The book provides extensive crag overviews, climbing histories, geology, equipment, and climbing styles and ethics. Olson created dozens of quality technical illustrations and provides many photos with route overlays, which can be invaluable in trying to locate climbs on long basalt and andesite cliff faces. Route development has continued at all of these crags, so you’ll need online resources for climbs created since 2012, but PRC remains an invaluable resource for local and visiting climbers.

Mazama Library 917.95 Ol8

But there’s still a place for printed guidebooks. An author provides a consistent view, both for quality and difficulty ratings, something notably absent in crowdsourced apps. And, as anyone who has wandered around long basaltic walls like Ozone will attest, locating routes can be challenging; most guides provide excellent maps and route topos that can save more than just time.

For climbers becoming more engaged in the sport, knowing the history of a

ROCK CLIMBING

SOUTHWEST OREGON AND WESTERN OREGON

If Alan Watts is the mayor of Smith Rock, Greg Orton is the emperor of southern Oregon. With more than 200 routes to his credit, and hundreds of climbers taught or inspired, Orton has been a big part of expanding the climbing community in the southern reaches of the state. His four guidebooks brought attention to areas previously known only to locals, covering big crags like the Honeycombs and the Callahans as well as dozens of obscure ones. The books include detailed descriptions, maps, topos, and photographs to help climbers navigate the often isolated crags.

Southwest Oregon: Mazama Library 917.95 Or8

Western Oregon: Mazama Library v.1 (Willamette), 917.95 Or8 v.2 (Umpqua), 917.95 Or8 v.3 (Rogue)

crag, the progress of development, and its specific climbing traditions and ethics can deepen the experience and provide a sense of community. Finally, guidebooks like the Weekend Rock series offer quality-screened selections of climbs that can help you decide which routes to tackle among the thousands out there.

Here’s a quick rundown of some rock climbing guidebooks for our region.

OREGON ROCK

Oregon Rock was a seminal volume used throughout the 1980s and 1990s rock climbing boom. Thomas focuses on Broughton Bluff (40 routes), Beacon Rock (45 routes), Smith Rock (280 routes), and Stein’s Pillar, with relatively brief descriptions and a First Ascent section. Almost all the climbs are trad, and the protection notes are mostly “nuts to 2-1/2.” These days the slim volume is mostly of historical interest, providing a window on the pre-sport conditions that prevailed during Thomas’s climbing heyday in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Mazama Library 917.95 T36

NORTHWEST OREGON ROCK

This volume covers everything not described in his Portland Rock Climbs, including less popular crags such as Bulo Point, Area 51, Klinger Springs, Pete’s Pile, Wanker’s, and OH8. But it really shines as a resource for climbers seeking true adventure climbing. There are listings for every isolated outcrop in the Santiam Pinnacle/Menagerie area near Sweet Home; dozens of obscure cliffs and pinnacles in the Gorge; midvalley areas like Wolf Rock; and even Blue Mountain crags and routes. The directions for accessing some areas, such as Chimney Rocks near Washougal, are sometimes out of date—climbers are advised to check online for updated info—and the list of climbs may be incomplete where route development has continued. But the guide’s overview of crag development, climbing history, and its hundreds of quality topos, maps, and photos are invaluable for research and in getting oriented. Also included are many older climbs that are simply not listed in online apps, as well as the ephemeral ice climbs that appear briefly in the Gorge every few years.

Mazama Library 917.95 Ol8n

WEEKEND ROCK: OREGON & WASHINGTON

If you’re tired of flipping through page after page (or screen after screen) of 5.11 and 5.12 climbs in search of quality routes in a moderate range, you’re a “weekend climber,” and this series should appeal to you. The authors have made a quality-based selection of routes, with grades between 5.0 and 5.10a/b, appropriate for beginner to intermediate climbers.

The Oregon volume, by Portlandbased writer and climber Ron Horton, details 200 moderate trad and sport climbs at 16 crags sprinkled across Oregon. This includes several near Portland, Mt. Hood, and Smith Rock, but also less familiar areas such as the Callahans, Umpqua, Ashland, and Eastern Oregon. This leaves out a lot of familiar ground for PDX climbers, notably the Gorge, but in the name of broadening our horizons.

The Washington guidebook, by veteran climber and route developer David Whitelaw, offers 300 trad and sport climbs at 11 crags, including the well-known climbing areas of Leavenworth, Index, Darrington, Tieton, Mount Erie, Exit 38, and Frenchman Coulee, as well as the lesser-known areas of Banks Lake and Half Moon Crags. Mazama Library 917.95 H78 (OR); 917.95 W59 (WA)

ROCK CLIMBING: SMITH ROCK STATE PARK

There are Smith Rock guidebooks that are lighter and more select, but lugging this 2.5-pound beast around the crag just seems like part of the experience. Do you need descriptions of 1,800 routes, up through 5.14c? Maybe not. But even intermediate climbers want to identify those historic routes that made Smith famous, like Chain Reaction, or To Bolt or Not to Be. Watts provides a very thorough introduction, including a highly entertaining 30-page climbing history, that is alone worth the book’s price. His opinionated route descriptions are accurate and often hilarious. But like any good guide, the greatest value is in the superlative maps, technical drawings, and route photos that make navigating the huge park possible. (This information reflects the 2010 2nd Edition. In late 2023 a completely revised 3rd edition was published, detailing a staggering 2,200 routes. Watts produced and published an independent index to the 3rd edition on his own, available in the Mazamas Library among other places. He has also posted the previous edition’s history sections to his website at www.wattsrocks.xyz.)

BOARD OF DIRECTORS MINUTES

JUNE 2, 2024

Attending: David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Matthew Sundling, Secretary; Charles Barker, Chris Jaworski, Claire Tenscher, Debbie Dwelle, Marty Hanson; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director; Guest: Ryan Abbott, Chair of CISM. Absent: Greg Scott, President.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:10 p.m. by Vice President David Urbaniak.

■ A quorum was present.

MEETING AGENDA

■ Meeting Minutes Approval

□ Prior meeting minutes approval requires a vote.

□ Vote on public and executive session meeting minutes. Motion to approve May 2024 set of meeting minutes: Motion (Debbie D.), second (Liz C.), 8 in favor, 0 against, 0 abstained.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ ED reported on progress on current objectives that include revenue streams and opportunities, facilities management, and team and role optimization. The report continued to provide updated details on activities during April 2024 that touched on programming, staffing, committee and program support.

TREASURER’S REPORT

■ Package: Treasurer’s narrative, and two financial statements while looking at April 30 financials. Overview of balance sheet–variance of cash (+$133,000 to budget), investment YTD (+$14,000 without deposits + withdrawals).

COMMITTEE REPORT(S)

■ CISM Committee:

□ Ryan Abbott, chair of the committee, presented a comprehensive review of the CISM methodology. He provided a detailed review document and proposed discontinuing the current methodology of CISM based on modern research and best practices in debriefing.

□ Abbott summarized the review document, helped educate the Board on the proposal including the trade-off and consequences of some

potential alternative approaches for the CISM committee.

■ DEI Presentation

□ Debbie Dwelle led a discussion on diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) within the Mazamas, with a particular emphasis on the importance of inclusion in our community. She reached out to the chair of the Mountaineers DEI committee for an exchange of ideas

□ Currently, the Mazama website features several published texts on DEI and our affinity groups, including some DEI blog issues from 2021. As of June 2024, the affinity spaces are the most active aspect of DEI within the Mazamas. There is fairly good engagement with DEI concepts at the program committee level, though less so at the board level.

□ It was emphasized that both DEI and antiracism should be considered, integrated, and prominently featured at the board level. This mindfulness will be crucial as we develop our strategic plan. Debbie will gather and curate resources to educate board members about DEI concepts and the relevant frameworks.

□ Suggested board goal: Update a policy to incorporate DEI aspects and considerations.

EXECUTIVE SESSION

■ No executive session.

ADJOURNMENT

■ The meeting was adjourned at 7:56 p.m. by Vice President David Urbaniak.

JULY 2, 2024

Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Matthew Sundling, Secretary; Charles Barker, Chris Jaworski, Claire Tenscher, Debbie Dwelle, Marty Hanson; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director;

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:10 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

MEETING AGENDA

■ Meeting Minutes Approval

■ Approval of the previous meeting minutes required a vote. A motion to approve the June 2024 meeting minutes, including both public and executive sessions, was made by Charles B. and seconded by Debbie D. The vote resulted in 6 in favor, 0 against, and 1 abstention (Greg S.).

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ The Executive Director reported on the progress of current objectives, including revenue streams and opportunities, facilities management, and team and role optimization. The report also provided updated details on activities during June 2024, covering programming, staffing, and committee and program support.

TREASURER’S REPORT

■ The Treasurer reported on the financial status of the Mazamas for July 2024, highlighting the current cash balance, net assets available for operations, and year-to-date budget versus actual variances. The finance committee met with financial advisor Joe Eberhardt of Ravensview Capital Management to review the current investment portfolio and financial goals.

CHRIS JAWORSKI’S CONTRACT UPDATE:

■ Chris Jaworski presented the Mazama Lodge report, outlining the business model and operational updates as of July 2, 2024. The lodge’s revenue is driven by membership experiences, external group functions, and general public access, excluding Mazama programs. Currently, only group rentals, such as ski camps, have generated revenue. Essential

operational components, like fire panel replacement and volunteer host training, are needed for phased openings. Health and safety compliance is nearly complete, with updates to fire safety and cleaning. Facility improvements, including kitchen repairs and furniture preservation, are underway. Discussions with The Mountaineers and other partners are ongoing to enhance community capacity. Financially, revenues meet projections, but achieving targets requires implementing key operational requirements. Progress varies across operations, food and beverage, facilities, and other areas, with expenses and hours detailed in the report.

■ A motion to extend Chris Jaworski’s contract according to the terms through the end of September 2024 was made by Greg S. and seconded by Charles B. The vote resulted in 8 in favor, 0 against, and 1 abstention (Chris J.).

RECAP OF M.J. MURDOCK TRUST BOARD LEADERSHIP TRAINING

■ The Mazamas were awarded a grant to attend and participate in the M.J. Murdock Charitable Trust Board Leadership Training. Greg S., Matt. S, and Rebekah P. provided a summary of the training, detailing the scope, and introducing the board to the following Top Five Priorities (listed below) for the remainder of the year. As part of the training, the Mazamas have a dedicated coach, Deborah Wilds. The entire board will meet with Deborah in late July to discuss the bylaws amendment and

the establishment of the Governance Committee.

■ Top Five Priorities:

□ Conduct a Programmatic Review designed to understand the operational overhead and impact of our programs. (October 2024)

■ Develop a feature set for program analysis with a statement of objectivity.

■ Grid of programs with feature data.

■ Reach out to committees or key individuals for raw data to populate the review grid.

■ Responsible: Matt, Rebekah

□ Map the Program Review to an in-depth Resource Review to better understand what resources our organization and different programs require to operate. (October 2024)

■ All resources, financial, facilities, volunteers, staff, any other assets.

■ Establish what useful information we need to capture and consolidate.

■ Notes on limits of each resource, and what it takes to leverage each resource.

■ Responsible: Matt, Rebekah, Finance Committee

□ Update Bylaws to support the establishment of a Governance Committee (August 2024)

■ Responsible: Greg, entire board

□ Establish a Governance Committee to improve board governance practices. (August 2024)

□ Good governance, develop and document policies and procedures, board governance calendar. Acknowledge responsibilities.

Establish division of labor to members. Calendar, regular review of resources, review of strategic plan, self-assessment, audited financials, 6 month board priorities reassessment.

□ Key responsibilities: board selfassessment process, Nominating and election process, board officer process, board policy manual, Emergency succession plan.

■ Responsible: Greg, Matt, Rebekah, entire board

□ Develop a Strategic Plan (December 2024)

■ Develop a list of tasks and timeline to approve a rolling three-year strategic plan by the end of December 2024.

■ Communicate and invest the board in this–involves educating them, developing buy-in, and trust. Establish a commitment to this timeline.

■ Establish division of labor to members and schedule regular follow-up to project manage the development.

■ Responsible: Greg, Matt, Rebekah, entire board

ExEcutivE SESSion

■ The executive session lasted 20 minutes and focused on discussions related to human resources topics. No decisions requiring a vote were made.

ADJOURNMENT

■ The meeting was adjourned at 7:56 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

continued from page 6.

by the president. The board may appoint additional members who need not be directors. The vice president shall preside at meetings. The committee's responsibilities include reviewing and recommending bylaws changes, developing governance policies and procedures, overseeing nomination and election processes, conducting board effectiveness reviews, and performing duties assigned by the Board of Directors.

KEY DIFFERENCES:

9. Committee Name and Focus:

□ The original "Nominating Committee" is being expanded into a "Governance Committee," reflecting broader responsibilities beyond nominating board members.

10. Composition:

Successful Climbers, continued from page 9.

Jul 20, 2024—Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier. Bob Breivogel, Leader; Kristina Prosser, Assistant Leader. Rick Busing.

Jul 22, 2024—Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier. Ryan Reed, Leader; Linda S Musil, Assistant Leader. James Taylor.

Jul 27, 2024—Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge. Ann Marie Caplan, Leader; John Meckel, Assistant Leader. Nicole Bruno, Jordan Reaksecker, Kelly O’Loughlin, Theo Pham, Zack Boisselle.

□ The revised committee explicitly includes the vice president and at least two directors, with the possibility of additional non-director members, while the original committee was composed of at least two directors.

11. Leadership:

□ The vice president is designated to preside over the governance committee meetings, adding a specific leadership role that was not detailed in the original nominating committee structure.

12. Responsibilities:

□ The governance committee's responsibilities are expanded to include reviewing bylaws, developing governance policies, overseeing nomination and election processes, conducting board effectiveness reviews, and handling additional duties. This contrasts with the original committee's primary focus on vetting and recommending board candidates.

Climbing Glossary,

continued from page 33.

Stemming: A climbing technique where you push against opposing sides of a corner (a “dihedral”) or chimney.

Top-rope: Climbing with the rope passed through a fixed anchor at the top of the route, with a belayer at the other end. Minimized fall distance.

Trad (traditional) climbing: Climbs using removable gear inserted into cracks, pockets, etc.; may include the occasional non-removable bolt or piton.

Whipper: A large fall, usually on lead.

V-scale: Bouldering rating system, also known as the Hueco Scale. Ranges from V0 currently up to V17.

YDS: Yosemite Decimal System, created hundreds of miles from Yosemite. An overly complex, open-ended numbering system for grading a climb’s difficulty, ranging from 5.0 to 5.15d and counting.

NOTES:

■ Enhanced Governance: The shift to a Governance Committee indicates a broader focus on improving governance practices, reflecting an organizational commitment to maintaining high standards.

■ Comprehensive Oversight: By expanding responsibilities, the Governance Committee can address various aspects of board operations, potentially leading to more effective and strategic decision-making.

■ Potential for Increased Workload: The expanded scope may require more resources and effort from committee members, necessitating careful consideration of member selection and time commitment.

■ Flexibility and Adaptation: The new structure allows for periodic reviews and updates to the committee’s charter and procedures, promoting adaptability to changing governance needs.

MAZAMA VALUES

Safety

We believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

Education

We believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

Volunteerism

We believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

Community

We believe camaraderie, friendship, and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

Competence

We believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers, and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities, and judgment required of their roles.

Credibility

We believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

Stewardship

We believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives, and sustain a healthy organization.

Respect

We believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

Whether you are new to the Northwest, a seasoned backcountry traveler, a longtime Portland resident who’s ready to start exploring, or somewhere in between, we can connect you to the hiking, climbing, and skiing adventures you seek.

■ Climb a mountain

■ Go rock climbing

■ Hike or backpack

■ Backcountry ski or snowshoe

■ Discover canyoneering

■ Meet interesting people

■ Learn new outdoor skills

■ Check out our library

■ Stay at our mountain lodge

■ See a presentation

■ Discover new places

■ Trek in a foreign country

■ Join an outing or expedition

■ Fix a trail

■ ... and so much more!

CONTACT US

Mazama Mountaineering Center

527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR, 97215

Phone: 503-227-2345

Email: help@mazamas.org

Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

Mazama Lodge

30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR 97028

Phone: 503-272-9214

Email: mazamalodge@mazamas.org

Hours: Closed

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Members: Peter Boag, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Becca Mischel, Ryan Reed, Jen Travers, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF

MATHEW BROCK

Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT

Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

CATHY WILDE

Finance & Administration Manager cathywilde@mazamas.org

REBEKAH PHILLIPS

Executive Director rebekahphillips@mazamas.org

BRENDAN SCANLAN

Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org

LENA TONEY

Development Director lenatoney@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Portland, OR 97215

www.mazamas.org