2024 Nov/Dec Mazama Bulletin

MAZAMA BULLETIN

IN THIS ISSUE CONTENTS

FEATURES

Cirque of the Unclimbables, p. 14

Steps Together, p. 19

The Gift of Trust: How the Mazamas Changed My Life, p. 24

Look! Mountains! Pull Over So We Can Climb Them!, p. 25

The Mazamas as a Genuine Community, p. 26

Connecting the Latino Community with Nature and Sports: Loco por la Aventura, p. 28

The Queerzamas: Adventure is Out There, and So are We, p. 30

An Interview with Sarah Diver: Understanding She, They, Us , p. 32

Wilderness Therapy: The Power of the Access Pass, p. 35

Ramblin’ Mazamas, p. 36

COLUMNS

Executive Director’s Message, p. 4

President’s Message, p. 5

Letter from the Editors, p. 6

Upcoming Courses, Activities & Events, p. 8

New Members, p. 8

Upcoming First Aid Courses & Activities, p. 9

Mazama Debriefing Team Celebrates 22 Years of Service, p. 10

Climbing High Notes, p. 11

Year-End Giving: How Your Generosity Makes a Difference, p. 12

New Lens, Same Frame: Base Camp Offers Fresh Perspectives on Mazama Mission, p. 13

Successful Climbers, p. 35

Board of Directors Minutes, p. 36

Saying Goodbye, p. 38

Everyone who engages with the Mazamas should feel that they belong in a community and can realize their potential as a leader,” on page 5

Established in the Cirque, we set our sights on climbing Lotus Flower Tower in the soonest available good weather,” on page 14

It’s hard to articulate in retrospect how pivotal that moment, and all that followed, has been in my life,” on page 22

While we love a good summit, the Queerzamas is here to show that the most rewarding ascent is creating a community where everyone feels they belong,” on page 28

Volume 106

Number 6

November/December 2024

Cover: Mazama Ramblers take a break in Macleay Park near Balch Creek.

Photo: Lisa Ripps.

Right: Sam Bedell, Lotus Flower Tower in background.

Photo: Kyle Tarry.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director

When the Publications Committee selected the theme of “community” for this issue of the Bulletin I couldn’t have been more delighted. In all senses of the word—whether it’s a group of people sharing characteristics and common interests or a feeling of fellowship—it’s one that the Mazamas embodies.

A healthy community doesn’t just happen overnight. It’s an ecosystem, the result of good leadership, strong engagement, security, and stability. It’s what happens when everyone knows the goal, and understands what they bring to reaching that goal. Of course communities involve human beings, so they can also get messy. By their very nature, communities are dynamic, and change according to the needs of its members. The idea that even after 130 years a community like the Mazamas is not a fully-formed utopia is wonderfully exciting to me. It means we’re still confronting new challenges and welcoming new ideas.

2025, is going to be another big year for the Mazamas. We’re bound to be faced with tough questions and difficult decisions as we strive to strengthen our financial position, develop a sustainable business model, and foster a values-aligned organizational culture. It will take all of us coming together and doing our part to get there. As we get ready to welcome the new year—and with it new members as well as new resolve to be and do better—I look forward to your collaboration and partnership in making a positive difference at the Mazamas. Whether you’re giving a little or a lot of your time, giving a little or a lot of your money, giving a little or a lot of your expertise, or just enjoying the perks of being a member, every bit helps shape and build the Mazamas into the community we want it to be.

This time of year I reflect on gratitude, on family and friends, on creating light in the darkness, and warmth in the cold. I want to thank everyone who continues to propel this community forward and step up for one another. For me, that’s the staff that keeps me laughing, the Board that keeps me focused, the volunteers that keep me grounded, and the mission that keeps me humble. It is a pleasure to work alongside you for something we all want—a strong organization doing good in the world for people and planet alike.

“The idea that even after 130 years a community like the Mazamas is not a fully-formed utopia is wonderfully exciting to me. It means we’re still confronting new challenges and welcoming new ideas.”

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

by Greg Scott, Mazama President

Earlier this year, I found myself challenged with the question: what is the promise of the Mazamas? The Mazama mission is to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains, and I believe that mission is deeply rooted in the twin pillars of community and service.

Community because no other organization builds community like the Mazamas. It’s no coincidence that the vast majority of people I know and consider close friends and family are Mazamas. Our passion for the outdoors connects us. There is not a single person who has been exposed to a Mazama class or climb that hasn’t made at least one friend, and in many cases, dozens. The Mazamas is community.

Service because no other organization provides so many opportunities for volunteerism and mentorship. The types of volunteer opportunities in the Mazamas require high levels of accountability and responsibility to others. No other organization provides opportunities for leadership like the Mazamas for virtually nothing.

Whether you just take BCEP, or join the board, you come away with tools you can use to solve complex problems throughout all other aspects of your life. How I’ve learned to deal with life’s challenges directly correlate to my years of volunteerism with the Mazamas, teaching BCEP, running the BCEP program, introducing new climbers to the sport, leading climbs and hikes, chairing the Climbing and CISM Committees, and working on the board. The Mazamas offer so many opportunities for leadership that are core to our operation, including teaching, mentoring, leading trips, and

running committees. These opportunities develop risk tolerance, project management skills, problem solving, team building, interpersonal skills, and learning to adapt and innovate.

Consequently, the skills I obtained through volunteering go beyond tying knots and this organization has influenced who I am today.

Those who attended the Steps Together benefit heard my story highlighting the undeniable truth that the mountains are changing due to climate change. The Mazama community has a role to play in protecting and adapting to our new environment. The wilderness doesn’t care about our plans and the greatest lesson I’ve learned from the Mazamas is how to adapt and do the next right thing

The mantra “what’s the next right thing to do” has also carried me through my tenure as president. This is my story, and I can’t speak to others.’ That said, my experience shouldn’t be unique to me.

Everyone who engages with the Mazamas should feel that they belong in a community and can realize their potential as a leader.

I am asking you to help preserve this promise. The promise that allowed me to find community, to become a leader through service, and to work with an organization that won’t ignore climate change. Investing in your organization is a form of leadership. So now I am going to ask all of you (my community) to take our organization at face value, recall the people you’ve met; recall one thing you’ve learned from it, and do the next right thing; join me in investing in the future of the Mazamas.

This is my final president’s message. I am honored to have served in this capacity and I’m most grateful to everyone who took the journey with me. I look forward to watching our community innovate and to keep learning and growing with it.

Climb On.

“Everyone who engages with the Mazamas should feel that they belong in a community and can realize their potential as a leader.”

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Bulletin Editor, and Darrin Gunkel, Publications Committee Chair

Holiday season, time to take stock of all we’re grateful for, and show our appreciation for the people who enrich our lives. So it’s fitting that the November/ December issue of the Bulletin is dedicated to the community that is the Mazamas, and the different ways that community takes shape.

Articles about the Critical Incident Stress Management Team (CISM) (p. 10),

Base Camp (p. 13), Mazama Rambles (p. 34), and a report from the Bob Wilson Grant awardees’ expedition to Cirque of the Unclimables (p. 14) frame the issue, highlighting the breadth of ways Mazamas come together, support each other, and share their love of the mountains.

A summary of our Oregon Symphony partnership (p. 11) finds the Mazamas connecting to the wider culture of Oregon, and the Pacific Northwest; likewise with the next in our series of bi-lingual articles, this one reviewing Mazama partner Loco Por La Aventura (p. 26).

Critical to our vision of community is inclusivity, and critical to inclusivity is visibility. The people in and behind the affinity groups Queerzamas (p. 28) and

She/They/Us (p. 32) have always been part of our community, and finally, cultural shifts have opened spaces for them to stand, be counted, and be seen for who they are.

At the heart of the issue are three Mazamas’ life stories (p. 22, 23, 24) two from the wonderfully successful 130th anniversary dinner Steps Together. The event photo spread (p. 20–21) says it all: the evening could have concentrated on our organization’s accomplishments and plans. Instead, the spotlight was on the people, and the stories they had to tell, about the community that is the Mazamas, and its ability to shape lives.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS ELECTION

ELECTION TIMELINE

■ November 11: Candidate profiles emailed and available on mazamas.org

■ November 11: Electronic ballots sent

■ November 11: Election opens and electronic voting begins

■ December 5: Election closes and electronic voting ends

■ December 5: Election results announced at Volunteer Appreciation Night

VOTING PROCEDURE

In an effort to significantly increase efficiencies and decrease our use of paper, the Board of Directors has decided to fully transition to electronic voting this year. Votes must be cast using the anonymous and confidential form sent by email.

ABRIDGED VOTERS GUIDE

The following individuals are running for the Mazama Board of Directors

■ Chris Kruell

■ Petra LeBaron-Botts

■ Jessica Minifie

VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION NIGHT

Join us for this year’s Volunteer Appreciation Night, Thursday, December 5. Enjoy food, beverages. and more, while mingling with your fellow volunteers. Per tradition, awards for exemplary service and achievements will also be announced. The results of the Mazama Board of Directors election will also be announced at the event. Watch the weekly eNews for complete details closer to the event.

This event is made possible by a generous bequest from Yun Long Ong, whose love for the Mazamas called him to lead climbs on all 16 peaks.

ADVANCED ROCK INFO NIGHT

NOVEMBER 20, 2024, ZOOM, 7 P.M.

by

Advanced Rock Committee

The Mazamas offers an annual course called Advanced Rock (AR) designed to provide high-quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. The course teaches the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes.

The program runs for 13 weeks starting in February 2025 consisting of weekly classroom lectures as well as weekend field sessions at various rock-climbing destinations such as Broughton Bluff and Smith Rock. At classroom lectures, students learn from experienced climbers and practice skills in the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Skills learned in the classroom are then reinforced in weekend field sessions.

AR aims to give you the ability to join a Mazama C and D climbs such as Acker

Rock and Liberty Bell and start your path to bigger adventures. Sounds fun, right? The best part of it all is the community of fellow outdoor enthusiasts that you meet through the course. By the end of the course, you’ll have a team of friends ready to join you on weekend adventures to Smith Rock and beyond.

To learn more about Advanced Rock, we recommend attending our AR Info Night (via Zoom) on November 20, 2024 at 7 p.m. Mark your calendars!

John Sterbis: “Taking Advanced Rock has been a game changer for my climbing career! After completing BCEP and ICS and being a climb leader for several years, Advanced Rock provided me with new skills, experiences, confidence, and relationships. Leading trad has opened a new realm of climbing for me, from multi-pitch trad routes at Smith Rock to alpine rock climbs like the Tooth and Ingalls Peak. I can continue to grow as a climber and give back even more to the Mazamas by sharing my skills with ICS, AR, and offering continuing education such as High Angle Rescue recertification classes for our climb leaders. Trad is truly rad!”

Ann Marie Caplan: “I was excited to take AR but was admittedly a little nervous about being able to access all that the class offered (I am not a big trad climber and feel most comfortable on moderate grades). I was very impressed with the quality of instruction from the AR instructors, the efforts to help everyone feel welcome, and the efforts after the class to offer practice sessions. The support I felt from instructors and students during the class was unique as we really grew to encourage each other no matter what grade we climb.”

Sean Patrick O’Brien: “I moved to the Northwest from the East Coast in 2022, and I was hoping to build on my previous rock climbing experience now that I live near so many incredible mountains and climbing areas. Rock climbing is by far my favorite way to experience the outdoors. The Advanced Rock course exceeded my expectations, teaching a breadth of skills that allowed me to pursue rock climbing objectives I previously never thought I would experience in places like Squamish, Red Rocks, and all over the Cascades. Whether you like to crag or are looking to take on big multi-pitch objectives, I found that AR created an amazing foundation, where you can take what you learn and cater it to your personal goals. On top of that, the people you meet through AR and the community you become part of are a great source of support, whether you’re looking for a last-minute climbing partner or want to keep learning.”

Devyn Powell: “A few years before I took AR, I remember watching a video of someone trad climbing and thinking to myself, “I could never do that.” I’m proud that I now feel comfortable safely leading friends up alpine multipitch climbs, pushing grades, and planning big and complex objectives. Not only did AR help give me the skills and confidence to do a lot of things I never thought I could, it also connected me with a community of some of the strongest, coolest, and kindest people I’ve ever met. AR was one of the most fun and fulfilling choices I’ve ever made, and I’d recommend it to anyone who wants to grow as a climber.”

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS NEW MEMBERS

ADVANCED ROCK INFO NIGHT

Dates: Wednesday, November 20

Time: 7 p.m.

Cost: Free

Location: Zoom

Elevate your climbing skills with the Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Course! Starting February 2025, this 13-week program combines expert instruction with hands-on training, preparing you to lead traditional climbs on vertical rock. Experience engaging classroom lectures and thrilling weekend field sessions at iconic locations like Broughton Bluff and Smith Rock.

Join a community of passionate outdoor enthusiasts and gain the skills to tackle climbs such as Acker Rock and Liberty Bell. By the end of the course, you’ll not only master essential techniques but also forge friendships that will last a lifetime.

Curious to learn more? Don’t miss our AR Info Night on Wednesday, November 20, 2024, at 7 p.m. via Zoom. Mark your calendars and get ready for an adventure! Find more infomation at www.mazamas.org/AR.

MAZAMA VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION NIGHT

Dates: Thursday, December 5

Time: TBD

Cost: Free

Location: TBD

Join us for this year’s Volunteer Appreciation Celebration, Thursday, December 5 in the Mazama Mountaineering Center’s Holman Auditorium. Enjoy food, beverages. and more, while mingeling with your fellow volunteers. Per tradition, awards for exemplary service and achievements will also be announced. The results of the Mazama Board of Directors election will also be announced at the event. Watch the weekly eNews for further details closer to the event.

CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCHEON

Dates: Friday, December 6

Time: Doors 11:30 a.m, lunch at Noon

Cost: $5

Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center

The Classics Committee will hold their annual holiday luncheon at the MMC on Friday, December 6, and like last year, it will be a potluck. Guests are asked to bring a salad, entree, side dish, or dessert to share with six others. Please pay $5 at the door to cover the cost of the ham entree, coffee and water, plates, napkins, cups, and utensils. Register by emailing classics@mazamas. org by December 2 and indicate names of attendees and food item you are bringing. Doors will open at 11:30 a.m. with lunch starting at noon.

We encourage members who joined in 2001 to attend and receive their 25-year pin. 50-, 60-, and 70-year pins will also be given out. We will mail pins to those who can’t attend.

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP) INFO NIGHT

Dates: Friday, January 8

Time: 7 p.m.

Cost: Free

Location: Zoom

Are you looking to gain new skills and confidence in the outdoors? Our eightweek Basic Climbing Education Program teaches rock and snow skills needed to climb snow-covered peaks, rock-climb, and make safety decisions on outdoor trips.

Taught by experienced Mazama leaders, you’ll be a part of an alpine climbing team and introduced to a future of outdoor opportunities with the Mazamas and beyond!

Join our virtual info night on January 8, 2025 to learn more about the program and the application process. Find more infomation at www.mazamas.org/bcep.

Between August 1, 2024, and September 30, 2024, the Mazamas welcomed 52 new members. Please join us in welcoming them to our community!

Steven Adamou

Lucas Black

Kathleen Boland

Micah Braden

Valerie Brown

Tristan Carolan

Hamilton Caulkins

Janelle Donaldson

Shelby Eagleburger

Robbert Elsinghorst

Nikolaus Euwer

Lori Fischer

Caleb Fry

Jordan Gartner

Debra Giles

Christopher Glick

Mike Graham

Satchel Harry

Amy Hillman

Joshua Hoke

Jeff Huot

Zachary Jay

James Johnson

Ben Lapp

Andrew Lasse

Bradan Lasse

Jotham Lefford

Timothy Liem

Ann Lininger

Cathy Miles

Janice Morgan

Kristen Mullen

Nancy Murakami

Terry Petersen

Binh Phung

Ryan Popma

Emily Price

Meg Remsen

Travis Rens

Echo River

Seth Robbins

Rebecca Routson

Steven Ruhl

Clay Shaddox

Lenhardt Stevens

Cameron Strauss

Allison Summers

Leslie Thomas

Eitan Tsur

Todd Williams

Justin Wyatt

Jason Zuchowski

UPCOMING FIRST AID COURSES & ACTIVITIES

Dates: Monday, December 2

Registration closes: November 30

Time: 6:30–8 p.m.

Cost: $40

Location: MMC Holman Auditorium

In the backcountry, there is no other treatment for anaphylaxis than epinephrine. Time matters and 15 minutes can be the difference in someone’s life. Students will attend a December 2 classroom-based course, taught by a physician. Upon completion of this course, participants may want to obtain an epinephrine autoinjector from a pharmacy. Persons trained in this course and attempting to obtain epinephrine from the pharmacy are responsible for all costs associated with the medication, not the Mazamas. The presentation will include optional information on Naloxone Rescue for Opioid Overdose. For more information visit www.mazamas.org/firstaid

Dates: Thursday, February 6, 2025

Registration opens: Wednesday, January 1, 2025

Time: 6–10 p.m.

Cost: $55

Location: MMC Holman Auditorium

Why Learn?

A bleeding injury can happen anywhere. We’ve all seen it happen too often, in the news or in everyday life. Life-threatening bleeding can happen in people injured in serious accidents or disasters. Instead of being a witness, you can become an immediate responder because you know how to STOP THE BLEED®.

What You’ll Gain from the Course:

The person next to a bleeding victim may very well be the one who’s most likely to save him or her from bleeding to death. By learning how to STOP THE BLEED®,

you’ll gain the ability to recognize lifethreatening bleeding and act quickly and effectively to control bleeding once you learn three quick techniques. Take the STOP THE BLEED® training course and become empowered to make a life-or-death difference when a bleeding emergency happens.

How

We Teach in this Course:

There will be a formal presentation at the MMC Holman auditorium followed by hands-on practice of applying direct pressure, packing a wound, and using a tourniquet to stop bleeding. With three quick actions, you can be trained to save a life. The #1 cause of preventable death after injury is bleeding. Course fee includes a personal tourniquet.

END-OF-YEAR OPPORTUNITY: USE YOUR FLEXIBLE SPENDING ACCOUNT (FSA) FOR MAZAMA FIRST AID SUPPLY DONATIONS

As the year draws to a close, many individuals are evaluating how best to utilize their remaining Flexible Spending Account (FSA) funds before they expire. While it’s common to use FSAs for medical expenses, many may not realize that their leftover funds can also be used to purchase first aid supplies—items that can make a significant difference when donated to Mazama First Aid programs.

Why Use Your FSA for First Aid Supplies?

FSAs are pre-tax funds that are set aside for medical expenses, and they come with a “use it or lose it” rule. If you don't spend the money in your FSA by the end of the year (or by your plan’s grace period), it will expire, leaving that hard-earned money behind. To avoid this, there is the option of purchasing eligible over-the-counter health products, such as first aid supplies, to put remaining funds to good use.

What Qualifies for FSA Purchases?

First aid supplies, such as triangle bandages, gauze, medical tape, medical gloves, glove recycle bin, AED supplies, and first aid kit restocks, are eligible expenses under most FSA plans. The Mazamas are also planning to offer a WFR course in 2025 and we will need stethoscopes and blood pressure cuffs. These supplies can be easily purchased at local pharmacies or through online retailers that accept FSA payments. Be sure to check with your FSA provider to confirm which items are covered under your specific plan.

The Benefit of Giving Back

By using your remaining FSA dollars to purchase Mazama first aid supplies for donation, you not only maximize your FSA savings but also extend a helping hand to the Mazamas. During the holiday season, this simple act of generosity can go a long way toward supporting our community. Plus, it’s a great way to make the most of funds that might otherwise go to waste.

Final Reminder: Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late

With the end-of-year deadline fast approaching, now is the time to review your remaining FSA balance and make your purchases. Before making your donation, reach out to the First Aid Committee firstaid@mazamas.org to confirm what supplies are needed. Additionally, be sure that the items you purchase are sealed and unexpired. This ensures that they remain in good condition and can be safely used. Be sure to complete all eligible transactions before your FSA plan’s deadline to ensure that your funds are put to good use.

MAZAMA DEBRIEFING TEAM CELEBRATES 22 YEARS OF SERVICE

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in the August 2014 issue of the Mazama Bulletin. The current Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) Committee has asked that this recap of the committee’s origin be republished so that new and existing members understand the origins of, and the need for, the services the committee offers members. This is the first of two articles by the CISM Committee, a second will follow in the January/ February 2025 Mazama Bulletin. The original article has been edited for context and to conform to our style guide.

Katie Foehl passed away in 2022, leaving behind a legacy of community service and dedication to the Mazamas. Over her 24 years with the organization, she actively participated in more than 13 committees, beginning with the Bylaws Committee in 1990 and concluding with the Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) Committee in 2014. Foehl was particularly focused on accident debriefing and risk management, chairing the Critical Incident Debriefing Team for five years. She also served on the Board of Directors from 1994 to 1996 and on the Mazamas Foundation from 2000 to 2005. In a final act of generosity, she bequeathed a significant gift to the Mazamas as part of her estate.

by Katie Foehl

How could I have had any idea that my dangling 50 feet down in a crevasse for two hours on Mt. Shuksan would lead to creating the Mazama Critical Incident Debriefing Team1? How did the July 1992 Shuksan incident2 trigger the [organization] to develop this team?

Shortly after the accident my climbing mentor, Al Cooke, called me with a million questions—the start of many discussions. At the time, Al was a climb leader and long-time Oregon City fire and rescue professional.

Al related to me: On the return to the fire department after a major fire he and his fellow firefighters were frozen in silence. Al spoke out that they needed to start talking about all that had happened during the fire. By the time they arrived at the station Al said that everyone seemed to feel noticeable relief. His fire department had just begun using a local chaplaincy service that included medical and mental health professionals for critical incident stress debriefing. A debriefing is a guided discussion to talk about the event.

He strongly urged the Mazamas to implement a debriefing service. The seed had been planted.

Then began meetings with selected Mazamas from the Executive Council3, climb leaders, and mental health professionals. Mazama member Lis Cooper

was instrumental in organizing the group and arranging debriefing training.

As a result, in the fall of 1992, the council established the Incident Response Committee to develop policies for accident management, investigation, and postaccident emotional aftercare. The ultimate goals were continuous safety improvement and the well-being of members participating in Mazama activities. The two services eventually became separate committees: Risk Management and CIDT.

The original incident response committee members were Al Cooke, Sylvia Cate, Lis Cooper, Doug Couch, Katie Foehl, Tracey Louden, Charles Maclean, Janet Nickolaus, Barbara Parker, Alan Proffitt, Dave Sauerbrey, Donna Vandall, and Art Walker. The original peer debriefers were Sherry Aanerud, Sali Borchman, Sylvia Cate, Lis Cooper, Doug Couch, Katie Foehl, Joyce Follingstad, Billie Goodwin, Ed Holt, George Stonecliffe, Art Walker, and Barry Wright.

Since 1992 an estimated 70 debriefings have been held, and those involved in debriefings have given the team many gratifying comments. One particular thank you note from a climb leader that I remember: “The debriefing helped me recognize and release some of the emotions felt that day. It was an important step for me. I had no idea those emotions were bottled up. But even now I can smell the ozone and scree dust whipped up by the passing storm that afternoon. At least I better understand what we went through thanks to the debriefing.”

1 Note that CIDT was renamed the Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) team to reflect the broader scope of its mission: to give Mazama members emotional first aid following an accident.

2 In 1992, author Katie Foehl was trapped in a crevasse on Mt. Shuksan, dangling on a rope 50 feet down for over two hours. A full account of her ordeal can be found in the 1992 Mazama Annual.

3 As the Board of Directors was known at the time.

CLIMBING HIGH NOTES

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

The Mazamas entered a unique partnership in September, collaborating with the The Oregon Symphony to bring the love of mountains and music together. The Symphony had reached out to the Mazamas to help launch its 2024–2025 season with Richard Strauss’ An Alpine Symphony. The results were a well-received panel discussion at one of our Base Camp evening programs, a miniexhibit in the lobby of the Arlene Schnizer Concert Hall, and three short conversations with Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager, during the pre-show Concert Conversations.

Composed between 1899 and 1915, An Alpine Symphony, a work for a full orchestra, is a tone poem about climbing in the Alps. It was inspired by the German composer’s own love of the mountains. Strauss made his climb at the age of 14 and then spent three decades writing his epic work, one that is as much about climbing as it is about life’s journey. The piece begins at sunrise, carries through to reaching the summit, and then concludes with sunset back at camp.

The Base Camp program was held Wednesday, September 11, and featured a panel discussion where members of the Mazamas and the Oregon Symphony explored the intersection of climbing, nature, and music. Oregon Symphony Music Director David Danzmayr and section musicians joined Mazama President Greg Scott and Executive Director Rebekah Phillips for a conversation inspired by Strauss’ An Alpine Symphony.

When the symphony opened on September 21, the mezzanine lobby featured a mini-exhibit that explored

the history of Mt. Hood and Mazama mountaineering during the time that Richard Strauss was composing his Alpine Symphony. The exhibit was designed and installed by Mathew Brock and featured narrative panels, objects from the Mazama Library and Historical Collections, and two mannequins in clothing from the 1930s and 2020s. Roughly 4,000 concert attendees were able to view the exhibit prior to the concert and during intermission.

Mathew Brock also joined Brandi Parisi, from All Classical Radio, for three short pre-show conversations over three days that focused on the history of the Mazamas, the organization’s evolution over time, and how the Mazamas remain relevant in today’s society. All three talks were well attended.

Above: Concert attendees view the Mazama exhibit at the Arlene Schnizer Concert Hall. Photo: Rebekah Phillips.

YEAR-END GIVING: HOW YOUR GENEROSITY MAKES A DIFFERENCE

by Lena Toney, Development Director

As our 130th year draws to a close, it is with gratitude that we reflect on the remarkable strength of our community and the progress we’ve made together to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains. That our mission continues to touch the lives of members in so many profound ways speaks to its relevance and importance, and we thank the supporters, volunteers, and donors who make it possible. Many donors find the year-end an ideal time to contribute financially—not just because it feels good to give, but because philanthropy also comes with practical benefits to both the organization and the donor. This kind of support is instrumental in driving our success and ensures that we continue to advance our cause. September’s Steps Together fundraising gala was a memorable way to unite as a community and support each other; we invite you now to continue your support as part of our end-of-year giving campaign and to consider planned giving to sustain our efforts for another 130 years.

Everybody Wins

Our annual end-of-year fundraising campaign generates critical support for our programs and operations, including initiatives around education,

conservation, and facilities, as well as other organizational expenses. As the calendar year ends, many are thinking about financial planning and tax strategies, of which charitable giving may play an important part. Of all the 501(c)3 nonprofits you support, we hope that your own positive experience with the Mazamas will lead you to include us among your priorities. Your donation, regardless of size, makes a significant difference, helping us move closer to our goals of long-term financial stability and sustainability.

Make a Gift Today

You can support our end-of-year giving campaign with a donation in any amount on our website (mazamas.org), or with a check made out to the Mazamas. You can also work with your financial advisor to schedule a contribution through your donor-advised fund or retirement account. If you would like to donate in a different way, please contact Lena Toney, Development Director, at 971-420-2505 or lenatoney@mazamas.org.

Leave a Lasting Legacy

If you think that bequests are created only by seniors, think again! 45 percent are created by individuals younger than 55. We encourage you to consider planned giving as a powerful way to shape your legacy and make a lasting impact at the Mazamas. Planned gifts, also known as estate gifts, provide a unique opportunity to ensure that our work can continue for generations to come—at the Mazamas, donors have supported facility enhancements, expeditions, scientific research, and the general operating fund by remembering the organization in their estate plans. Unrestricted estate gifts maximize the ability of the Mazamas to direct funds where they are most impactful, promote fiscal responsibility, and allow adaptability to changing circumstances, all while protecting and supporting the mission.

Plan a Legacy Gift

Learn more about how you can integrate charitable giving to support the Mazamas by contacting our development director, Lena Toney. Whether you are considering a bequest in your will, setting up a charitable remainder trust, or exploring other options, you can ensure your legacy gift impacts your support at the Mazamas.

If you have already decided to include the Mazamas in your estate plans, we invite you to let us know. You’ll want to be sure that you’ve recorded the Mazamas with the Tax ID (EIN) 93-0408077.

Contact Us

Lena Toney, Development Director 971-420-2505 lenatoney@mazamas.org

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland, OR 97215a www.mazamas.org/donate

NEW LENS, SAME FRAME: BASE CAMP OFFERS FRESH PERSPECTIVES ON MAZAMA MISSION

by Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director

For years, Mazama members gathered regularly to celebrate the exploits of their fellow adventurers in presentations called Evening Programs, more or less bearing witness to the rites of passage of climbers, scientists, and travelers lucky enough to embark on worldly explorations concerning matters of both the physical and the heart. But, as it did with many initiatives, the 2020 pandemic paused these more passive opportunities to engage with the mountains for months on end. At last, in 2023, after fielding dozens of requests, the Mazamas resurrected the series, rebranding it as “Base Camp.” Intended to engage us in unexpected ways, the new label is a nod to the period of organization, preparation, and acclimatization reserved before setting out on a route; in other words, it assumes that, though many of us have summited dozens of peaks, the real path to discovery is yet to come.

Steering the Base Camp series is the Mazama Programs Committee. Chris Donato, who has served on the committee since 2022, says that while their goal is to keep the original spirit alive, the 2023 bylaws change provided an opportunity to expand the scope to more inclusive programming that would also appeal to the broader community, such as talks from local environmental groups, scientists, guidebook authors, and film nights.

“I hope that every Base Camp attendee will leave with a piece of knowledge they didn’t have before,” says Chris, “whether it’s a deeper understanding of our diverse landscapes, better route beta, or new places to explore. More than that, I want people to feel more connected to the community that shares these spaces—we’re fortunate to live in a place where so many of us participate in outdoor recreation, and I hope Base Camp provides a safe place for people to learn, mingle, and grow connected to one another.”

Atalanta Powell, a member of the Programs Committee as well as a nonprofit professional, also cites an opportunity to reach a wider membership. “Nonprofits are responsible for providing services to the community that people might not be able to find through for-profit or government entities,” she says.

Her colleague, Shelley Stearns, agrees. “You’ll see some of the familiar things with some new additions. We’re working to bring programs that appeal to members and further our commitments as a nonprofit. This means more community outreach and partnerships with other organizations.”

The Programs Committee keeps an open mind when it comes to the lineup and admits it’s still experimenting, striving to strike a balance between access and inclusion, keeping events no- or low-cost, and appealing to a wide swath of outdoor enthusiasts. Atalanta notes, “From standout trip reports to independent filmmaking and plant identification, we look for topics we think would be engaging for anyone who is interested in recreating in the outdoors with curiosity and respect.”

As Base Camp finds its rhythm, members are encouraged to provide feedback and submit ideas for new programs. Those looking for a way to volunteer within a flexible framework are also welcome to reach out. As a busy mom to a seven-year-old, Atalanta understands the practical constraints of the desire to

give back. “I know how much effort it takes to create successful education programs and I struggle to feel like I’m having an impact as an assistant in BCEP or ICS, so when I heard about re-starting the evening programs it felt like a good fit for the time I have. Not only is this committee work fairly flexible for my schedule but I’m also passionate about finding ways to expand partnerships with other local organizations.”

Interested in lending a hand? The Programs Committee is looking for volunteers who can provide both creative and logistical support, from brainstorming and booking programs, to marketing and promotion, to onsite coordination. Email programs@mazamas.org for information.

NOVEMBER 7: CASCADE GEOLOGY

Curious about the geology and history behind the many mountains we climb? Join us for a talk about the history and changes of Oregon and Washington’s volcanos and the mysteries they still hold.

NOVEMBER 13: ANTARCTIC CIRCUMNAVIGATION

Presented by Mazama Richard Stellner, this presentation will focus on an adventure taken around the Antarctic via a French Icebreaker! Within are descriptions and visuals of the southern hemisphere’s vast glaciers, icy waters, and wildlife (including lots of penguins!)

DECEMBER 4: MT. HOOD FILMS NIGHT

Join us for the screening of two short films and a Q&A with the filmmakers!

Cabin In the Sky: Chronicles the history of the old fire lookout at Mt. Hood’s summit and its impact.

Ranger: Canine Alpinist: An 8-minute documentary about Ranger, an Alsatian Shepherd who climbed Mt. Hood over 500 times in the 1920s and 1930s.

CIRQUE OF THE UNCLIMBABLES

A MAZAMA BOB WILSON GRANT FUNDED EXPEDITION TO THE NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK RESERVE

by Sam Bedell, Angie Brown, Damon Greenshields, and Kyle Tarry.

In late July, our group of four visited the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories, with financial support from a Mazama Bob Wilson Grant. The goals of our expedition were twofold: to attempt to climb the classic Southeast Face route on Lotus Flower Tower, and to investigate the potential for linkups and traverses between the peaks in the cirque. We were not successful in all of these endeavors, but nonetheless enjoyed a fantastic adventure in a remote and beautiful location.

The Cirque of the Unclimbables is located in the Logan Mountains, a remote mountain range near the southwest corner of the Northwest Territories province. Much of the area is within the Nahanni National Park Reserve, the name of which is derived from the Indigenous Dene name for the area. At approximately 62 degrees north, “the Cirque” is at a similar latitude to Denali, but its location significantly further east results in much milder weather. Due to the remote location and lack of major population centers in the region, The Cirque has a relatively short history of exploration and climbing in the modern era, and sees fewer annual visitors than other regions with similar terrain. One of the earliest recorded expeditions by a European party was the 1937 Snyder party, which visited Glacier Lake, the current starting point for the hike into the Cirque itself. A notable expedition in 1955 by Wexler and others, detailed in the 1956 American Alpine Journal, was the first to climb major summits in the Cirque, and

was also responsible for naming the area the “Cirque of the Unclimbables” due to the steep granite faces that were beyond the party’s abilities.

To access this beautiful range, we chose an approach that balanced minimizing cost while maximizing climbing time. We drove from Portland to Vancouver BC, and then took a commercial flight to Whitehorse (the largest city in northern Canada at approximately 30,000 people). From Whitehorse, we rented a car and drove six hours northeast to Finlayson Lake, where we boarded a small float plane that took us to the standard Cirque access point at Glacier Lake (elevation 2,600 feet). A steep hike guards the Cirque itself, which has a base camp in a picturesque alpine meadow (5,200 feet). We lugged heavy packs up the steep approach, with provisions for 12 days, along with a significant amount of climbing and camping gear. The camping area, commonly known as Fairy Meadows, continued on page 16

Left: Lotus Flower Tower from Fairy Meadows.

Above: Sam Bedell on Easy Huey, Mt. Harrison Smith in background.

Photos: Kyle Tarry.

is a field of large boulders among small creeks and alpine wildflowers. Several of the boulders are as large as a house and have overhanging faces that provide a sheltered camping area in stormy weather. Established in the Cirque, we set our sights on climbing Lotus Flower Tower in the soonest available good weather.

Lotus Flower Tower (8,400 feet) is only a small peak along the ridge that comprises the Cirque, but its immense southeast face rises 2,000 feet above the valley and is a nearly sheer face of unbroken granite. First climbed in 1968, its inclusion in the famous 50 Classic Climbs of North America has made the Southeast Face the most soughtafter objective in the region (although larger and more difficult routes do exist in the range). Graded as 5.10+ C0 V, the Southeast Face route is commonly climbed in one or two days, with an optional bivy on the halfway ledge (the only significant flat spot on the entire face). The route has approximately 20 pitches of climbing, none easier than 5.7, and includes a small amount of aid climbing to bypass a small roof near the summit.

On the day immediately following our hike up to Fairy Meadows, Angie and Damon took advantage of a great weather forecast to do a reconnaissance climb of Lotus, which turned into a successful summit after making good time on the lower half of the face. After reaching the summit, they rappeled back to the base by headlamp. They found the first three pitches to be wet with running water (this area often seeps even when the rest of the route is dry) but had great conditions higher on the route. Kyle and Sam waited several days and made their successful ascent three days later.

Both of our parties used a mix of free climbing and C0 aiding (“French free”) on the first three pitches, which are in a steep hand/fist crack corner system. Above this corner, the climbing eases slightly into a long chimney system, which runs for seven more pitches to the bivy ledge. Sustained 5.7 climbing in this area was dispatched primarily with long pitches of free climbing (neither of our teams did a significant amount of simul-climbing in this area due to the sustained nature of the

Left: Sam and Kyle on Lotus Flower Tower.

Above, right: Camp in Fairy Meadows. Photo: Kyle Tarry.

climbing). At the halfway ledge, the nature of the climbing changes significantly, with 10 pitches of 5.9 climbing on the steep headwall that are primarily a mix of thin cracks and face climbing on knobs and crystals without the relief of any belay ledges. A three-foot roof with a hand crack on pitch 16 is the crux of the route (with a free climbing grade of 5.10+), which we aided using slings before continuing to free climb the crack systems above. Several more high-quality pitches lead to lowerangle terrain, with the summit a short scramble from the last pitch. Angie and Damon used a double rope system for the headwall pitches, while Kyle and Sam used a single rope and a tagline and utilized the “fix-and-follow” method (the follower climbed the pitch using a self-belay with a toprope solo system while the leader hauled a small bag with the tag line). The descent requires approximately 15 doublerope rappels, initially following the line of ascent down the headwall and then, below the bivy ledge, diverging from the ascent chimneys to follow a clean face to the base of the route.

Both of our climbing teams elected to climb the route in a single push without a bivy on the ledge in order to keep pack weight and volume as low as possible for the sustained steep climbing. We all approached the base of the route in the dark, began climbing around sunrise, and took 14–16 hours to reach the summit. Several hours of rappelling brought us back to the base, and we returned to camp approximately 24 hours after departing.

After successful climbs of Lotus Flower Tower, we rested and enjoyed some of the cragging around Fairly Meadows (highlights include the 5.12 sport route on a distinct feature called “the Penguin” and a horizontal roof hand crack under a huge boulder). Angie and Damon climbed the first four pitches of “Riders on the Storm” on East Huey Tower and reported excellent 5.10 crack climbing. Angie and Damon then climbed “Brent’s Hammer” (5.11 III) to the summit of Terrace Tower while Kyle and Sam climbed the West Ridge of East Huey (5.9 III).

We also looked at the potential for longer traverses between peaks but

ultimately did not attempt any of our proposed routes. Due to the long, dark winters and significant precipitation, the range can be quite vegetated and rock quality is variable. The ridgeline connecting the Huey summits appeared to be exposed knife-edge granite covered in moss and lichen when viewed from the Huey Notch, while the section between Huey and Phenocryst had a significant amount of loose, poor-quality rock when viewed from Lotus. We also considered crossing the notch between Lotus Flower Tower and Mt. Sir James MacBrien to look at objectives on the backside of the Cirque and in the Mt. Polymer area, but unfortunately, we did not have the required two-day period of good weather for a bivy in that basin.

With a poor weather outlook for the remaining few days of our trip, we hightailed it down to Glacier Lake and lucked out in snagging a last-minute flight out with Warren Lefave of Inconnu Lodge. Warren has been flying climbers into the range for nearly four decades, and his

continued on next page

experience was apparent when the engine on our plane died while flying through a rainstorm and he calmly remarked “Hm, a little carb icing” before getting it fired back up. Warren provided us with hot showers and a dinner buffet at Inconnu Lodge before flying us back to the parking lot the following morning. From there we reversed our previous travels and adjusted our return flights. We took advantage of the early return to make a stop in Squamish, where Angie and Damon climbed Rock On to Squamish Buttress, and Kyle and Sam climbed Angel’s Crest (both routes graded 5.10 IV, although we all agreed that after a week of climbing in the Cirque, climbing long routes in Squamish felt downright civilized).

Our team feels extremely fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit such a beautiful and remote area, and to have successfully climbed the sought-after Southeast Face of Lotus Flower Tower. If you like adventurous travel and alpine granite, the Cirque of the Unclimbables deserves a place on your to-do list.

TEAM BIOS

■ Damon Greenshields: Born in Joseph, Oregon, Damon moved to Portland in 2018 after graduating from Oregon State (go Beavs). Since taking BCEP and ICS (2018–2020), he has found joy in testing himself on technical climbs throughout the western U.S. He has a hard time correctly spelling license.

■ Kyle Tarry: Born in New Hampshire, Kyle has lived in Portland since 2015 and has climbed alpine rock and ice routes in the Cascades, Peru, Alaska, and New Zealand. His favorite cheese is extra sharp cheddar.

■ Angie Brown: Angie moved to Portland from Indiana for grad school in 2018. She immediately got into mountaineering after taking Advanced Rock and enjoys long ridge scrambles when she isn’t working on an offwidth. Angie gets a stomachache whenever Kyle tries to give her his cheese.

■ Sam Bedell: Born in Reno and currently living in Bend after a college stint in Bellingham, Sam is a Smith Rock regular and has climbed long routes across the western U.S. and Canada.

Above: Glacier Lake from Fairy Meadows. Photos: Kyle Tarry.

STEPS TOGETHER

130TH ANNIVERSARY DINNER AND BENEFIT EVENT

by Mazama staff

Nearly two hundred Mazamas celebrated 130 years of climbing high at the gala benefit Steps Together on Wednesday, September 25. That evening they gathered at the EcoTrust Building in Portland’s Pearl District to see old friends, share stories, and, after the family-style dinner, enthusiastically raise their paddles for the Mazama mission and community, helping to bring in over $115,000 in all.

Event speakers highlighted their connection to the greater Mazama community. Emcee Larry Beck welcomed Petra LeBaron-Botts, Rick Craycraft, Hamp Haynes, Angie Brown, and Ray Sheldon to the stage to share in their own words the ways in which the Mazamas had changed their lives. Executive Director Rebekah Phillips and Mazama President Greg Scott also spoke about the power of the mountains to inspire belonging and create community.

Early in the evening, guests enjoyed mingling, visiting, and viewing raffle prizes over mocktails, craft brews, and fine wines. In the spirit of celebrating the talents and generosity of our members, prizes included a basket of wines selected and donated by the Board of Directors, a private sailing trip with member Richard Sandefur, a

painting by member Elizabeth Reed, and a hand-carved walking stick made by longtime Ramble leader Tom Guyot. The evening also featured a tribute to the late Bob Wilson, and a special video produced just for the occasion by member Ned Thanhouser that combined historic footage with contemporary member interviews, giving context to the organization’s 130year journey and making an inspiring appeal for support.

Capping the evening was keynote speaker Christian Beckwith, a veteran alpinist, entrepreneur, and historian with over three decades of experience in the world of mountaineering. Based in Jackson, Wyoming, Beckwith founded The Teton Climbers’ Coalition and has been involved in numerous climbing-related projects, including editing The American Alpine Journal and co-founding Alpinist Magazine. He has been on expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Alaska, Peru, and Tibet, where he has achieved numerous first ascents and descents. As the host of the podcast Ninety Pound Rucksack, Christian’s presentation recounted the history of the 10th Mountain Division and its impact on America’s outdoor recreation industry.

The 10th Mountain Division was a specialized unit of the United States Army during World War II. It was formed in 1943 and consisted of highly trained soldiers skilled in mountain and winter warfare. The division played a crucial role in the Italian Campaign, where their expertise in navigating difficult terrain and harsh weather conditions proved

instrumental in defeating the German forces. Their tactical skills and ability to operate in mountainous regions gave the Allied forces a significant advantage. The 10th Mountain Division’s contributions helped secure key victories and ultimately contributed to the Allied victory in the war, but it also made mountaineering, climbing, and skiing accessible to the general population by training enlisted men in fields long reserved for the affluent elite. For the first time, ordinary people were able to experience the mountains in these ways, and even after the war they continued to seek them out for solace and healing. Throughout his address, Beckwith mentioned several Mazamas who were instrumental in the 10th, including Joe Leuthold, William Hackett, and Russ McJury.

Steps Together would not have been possible without the support of Ravensview Capital Management LLC, the Dick Pugh Memorial Endowment, Springwater Wealth Management, Glacier House, Timberline Lodge, Portland Syrups, Best Day Brewing, Movember Gym, and John’s Marketplace. Thank you to these sponsors, and to all those who helped to make this event so memorable.

Above, left to right: Mazama President Greg Scott, Executive Director Rebekah Phillips, and Keynote Speaker Christian Beckwith at the Steps Together event.

Photos by Wild Wave Photography.

Steps Together 130th Anniversary Dinner and Benefit Event, September 25, 2024.

The

Photos by Wild Wave Photography.

THE GIFT OF TRUST: HOW THE MAZAMAS CHANGED MY LIFE

by Petra LeBaron-Botts

Iwould like to start this off by thanking all Mazamas: thank you for the roles you all play in this community and, by virtue of your membership, thank you for supporting an endeavor—a movement—that is nearest and dearest to my heart.

I am a current professor of health and physical education at Mt. Hood Community College, a rescuer with Portland Mountain Rescue, the chair of the Mazama Risk Management Committee, a member of both the BCEP and Steep Snow and Ice committees, and a former instructor of mountaineering, backpacking, and paddling at a variety of programs including the National Outdoor Leadership School, Open Sky Wilderness Therapy, and the North Cascades Institute. I mention this experience because this is the gift that you, the Mazamas, have given me—the gift of purpose, direction, and community.

When I finished my Bachelor’s degree in 2008, I found myself part of a much different community—the community of survivors of sexual violence. At that time, I thought of myself as “broken”— traumatized, depressed, and distrustful of nearly everyone and everything. My plans to pursue federal government employment with my brand-new degree in Political Science and Middle Eastern Studies no longer seemed interesting or viable. Instead, I moved to Portland on a whim—a place I’d grown up visiting but really knew nothing about other than that I’d better learn how to ski immediately.

So I did. Sort of.

A Google search led me to the Mazama Nordic Skiing class in early 2009 where I discovered that Nordic skiing is both not downhill skiing and, for me, not that fun. Skiing next to me in that class (nearly as ungracefully) was current Mazama President Greg Scott. Greg told me about

the Basic Climbing Education Program that day, to which I responded, “Nah… pretty sure climbing wouldn’t interest me.” I agreed eventually, enticed by the promise of new friends and being able to check the “outdoor hobby” box that Portland residency all but requires of you.

It’s hard to articulate in retrospect how pivotal that moment, and all that followed, has been in my life. BCEP led to my first summit, which led to many more summits, which led to ICS, which led to serving as a BCEP assistant, which led to getting certified as a Wilderness First Responder, which, ultimately, led to a friend casually suggesting I apply to work as a NOLS mountaineering instructor in Alaska.

So I did.

Each of these experiences snowballed into the next. NOLS led me to wilderness therapy, which led me to a graduate degree in Environmental Education, to my first job in higher education, and ultimately to being a tenured professor. So, in a very real way, the Mazamas (and Greg—my Master’s capstone project was dedicated to him) gave me my entire career. But the reason for this career shift goes much deeper than the spectacular vistas, the early morning cups of coffee made over a Whisperlite, or the incredible variety of people I’ve been able to call my students and coworkers. This deeper reason is my greatest debt of gratitude to the Mazamas, because you all have given me the gift of trust.

As climbers, we know that you cannot climb with those you do not trust. To climb with someone is to literally entrust your life to them. To climb in a team is to simultaneously demand absolute trust in yourself and absolute trust in your partner. To climb is to trust your feet, trust your gear, and trust your belay. In short, there is no climbing without trust.

As a wounded and deeply sad young woman, I found the deepest healing in the Mazamas. This healing didn’t just

come from big days in the mountains and sweeping views, though they have certainly played their part. The greatest healing came from the relationships I developed, the joy I have felt in learning, the deep contentment that comes with knowing that people will rise to the challenges they are given whether physical or emotional, and that I can always trust the people on the other end of my rope. You have all taught me that I can do hard things and that the hard things are worth doing and worth doing together. BCEP taught me that these spaces we co-create—in classrooms and in the mountains—are spaces of profound healing and growth for everyone, not just the wounded and sad. Together, we give each other the gifts of autonomy, challenge, and respect. I carry all of these lessons with me as an educator and hope to create these spaces for all my students, whether they are within the walls of a classroom or on the flanks of a glacier.

So, thank you. Thank you for seeing me, thank you for climbing alongside me, and thank you for giving me trust back.

LOOK! MOUNTAINS! PULL OVER SO WE CAN CLIMB THEM!

by Rick Craycraft

On the last day of 1973, I was ringing in the New Year with friends in a cabin somewhere in the foothills of the Cascades. I had been in Oregon for two months. At that party, I announced, “Now that I am living in Oregon I want to do two things—float the Willamette River and climb Mt. Hood.”

Thirteen years later I had moved to Portland after what I thought was the relationship of my life fell apart. I was very depressed and needed desperately to do something to make myself feel better. I also had come face to face with the fact that there really is no tomorrow. If you find yourself starting sentences with the phrase “well, someday,” be careful.

So I signed up for a climb of Mt. Hood with the Portland Parks and Recreation department (this was back when they were into that sort of thing.) Our little team had a pre-climb meeting at someone’s house at which we were told generally what to expect, what to bring, and such. Any real instruction came days later at the foot of the Palmer snowfield at 12:30 a.m. I had done everything wrong leading up to the climb—I had all borrowed or rented clothing and gear. I looked like a yard sale. I had gotten no sleep after packing that evening. I ate the wrong thing for dinner. And, I was probably in the worst shape of my life. But there I was, facing a night of trudging uphill.

The altitude sickness kicked in right around the top of Palmer, and persisted to the Hogsback. By that time I had decided

not to go on. But the leader clipped me in without question and off we went. We summited on June 28, 1987. It had taken us eight hours to get there.

Back at the Hogsback, we celebrated our success with a container of fresh blueberries someone had brought. As I sat there, I saw some strange movement farther down the slope, a fluttering of some sort. Are there birds at altitude? As the movement came closer, I realized it was a swarm of Monarch butterflies migrating up and over the top of Mt. Hood. They went right over our heads. With that little piece of magic, I was hooked.

Later that summer I signed up again with Portland Parks, this time to go up South Sister. The leader of that climb was Lis Cooper, who was, and still is, a Mazama. She got our ragtag group to the top and back down. In the parking lot, besides passing out summit certificates, she also had Mazama membership applications. The rest is history.

I’ve been climbing for 38 years now, nearly half my life, and I have never tired of it. Oh, I’ve seen a talus slope or two I didn’t like and the weather hasn’t always been perfect, but I still look forward to the next climb. And just this past week, I was reminded again that those final few strides to a summit can feel pretty sweet. Climbing is about the closest thing I have in my life to a calling.

Here’s another story from my past, one that I don’t actually remember. My late mother always swore it was true and she wouldn’t lie to me. I was raised in south-central Kansas, where for outdoor recreation we went to the Ozarks, in southern Missouri and northern Arkansas. Usually, that was to see the fall colors. Or

we would go to Colorado. We had family in Colorado Springs, so we would do things like drive to the top of Pikes Peak or Mt. Evans, or push farther into Colorado to see what we could find.

On one of these trips, probably my first, we were driving across eastern Colorado when I looked out the window and saw blue shapes on the horizon. In Kansas, there is nothing on the horizon but more horizon. As the shapes grew larger, I realized what they were. At that point, according to my mother, I jumped to my feet in the back seat and started yelling, “Look! Mountains! Pull over so we can climb them!”

That story makes me wonder just how deep this climbing stuff goes.

THE MAZAMAS AS A GENUINE COMMUNITY

Editor’s Note: This article contains references to suicide and cults, which may be distressing for some readers. If you or someone you know is struggling with thoughts of suicide, please know that help is available. Call or text 988 to reach the Suicide and Crisis Lifeline, which provides 24/7 free and confidential support. You will be connected to trained crisis counselors in your area. For additional mental health resources and support, visit 988lifeline.org.

If you have concerns about loved ones involved in potentially harmful groups or cults, organizations like the International Cultic Studies Association (www.icsahome.com) offer information and support. Remember, you are not alone, and there are caring professionals ready to listen and assist you.

by Alicia Antoinette

As someone who was raised in a cult, any organization is suspect at first. With extreme caution, I took the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). I have very carefully continued to observe those within the Mazamas, as I furthered my involvement through the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), Steep Snow and Ice (SSI), Advanced Rock (AR), and now as I volunteer. What I have found within the Mazamas has been the opposite of what I was raised in. People come and go, but at the core are a group of people who genuinely care about others and are here to give back because they love the mountains and want to share with others the skills needed

to be able to take part in the lifechanging experiences that the mountains offer.

Over the past few years, I have heard multiple people make comments along the lines of “So you drank the Kool-Aid too,” or comparing the Mazamas to a cult. Perhaps you have heard or said similar things yourself. For those who may not know, the phrase “Drink the Kool-Aid” refers to the 1978 Jonestown massacre and the Peoples Temple cult. Many people mistakenly think those who died chose to commit mass suicide by drinking a cyanide-laced, colored beverage. However, this is not what transpired. During this tragedy, over 900 people died, a third of whom were minors. Seventy or more were injected with poison, a US congressman was assassinated, and many who did drink the poison were forced to do so at gunpoint. When people, with good intentions, equate the Mazamas to a cult or talk about drinking the KoolAid, it vastly undermines the horror that took place in Jonestown and the abuse and atrocities that cult survivors have experienced in general.

Is the Mazamas an organization that has a strong community focus around a certain activity? Yes, most definitely. However, this is a community built upon volunteerism, giving back to the community, trust and respect for others, and a love for the mountains. A cult is not a community. A cult is a divisive structure built by a leader to further their own personal gain by controlling the members through abuse. A cult leader gains and maintains power by tearing down the individual and isolating them from everyone and everything outside of the cult, thus ensuring they become completely dependent upon the cult leader. On the face, the cult looks like a community because the front is welcoming. Once inside, the destruction of the individual begins. It becomes increasingly harder and harder to leave, as the individual’s sense of self is stripped away and they grow more and more isolated at the hands of the

leader, who tells them if they leave no other community will accept them.

I am part of the Mazamas despite a few negative situations, because the overall experience and people I have found in this community have changed my life. I have found people who respect me and genuinely care about me as a person, who support me in being true to who I am. The people I have learned to trust, as my closest friends and climbing partners, have opened doors for me to be able to heal from the things I experienced growing up in a cult. Prior to the Mazamas, I had not found friends and a support system to be able to finally move beyond my childhood and the cult. It is not every day that you meet people who will drive hours to be with someone after a loss because the person is struggling with their existence, people willing to come together to replace thousands of dollars of stolen gear, people who will drive over eight hours to take someone back to their vehicle with parts to repair it when it broke down after a climb outside of cell service where calling a tow was not possible, or people who show up for each other in extremely difficult and painful situations without judgment. The Mazamas is anything but a cult. There is no single individual who defines the organization, but rather the Mazamas is a community of people who come together as a team “for the love of the mountains.”

Alicia Antoinette is a born and raised Oregonian, whose parents joined a religious cult when she was four. Despite growing up with Smith Rock in her back yard, she wouldn’t climb until over a decade after leaving. Having received minimal education, finding her career has been circuitous. She is a registered nurse and currently pursuing electrical and computer engineering to design the equipment to monitor volcanoes. The mountains were instrumental in her journey of unraveling a childhood in a cult.

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CONNECTING THE LATINO COMMUNITY WITH NATURE AND SPORTS: LOCO POR LA AVENTURA

by Maria Teresa Lopes

Imagine a place where adventure opens the door to physical and mental wellbeing. That place exists, and it's called Loco por la Aventura.

Founded in 2020, Loco por la Aventura is a non-profit organization with a thrilling mission: to educate, inspire, and motivate the Latino community (and anyone interested in our culture) to enjoy outdoor activities.

Every year, we offer approximately 35 exciting activities, free of charge or at very low cost, all conducted in Spanish. From rock climbing and bouldering to mountaineering, camping, rafting, and backpacking, our programs are designed for everyone, regardless of experience. The key to our success? Our dedicated volunteers, experts in their fields, generously sharing their knowledge with the community.

Aníbal Rocheta and María Teresa Lopes, a Venezuelan couple who found their ideal home in Portland, Oregon, due to its abundant natural beauty, founded Loco por la Aventura. Aníbal, a tourism graduate from Venezuela, has been a professional climber and mountaineer for over two decades. Since 2014, he has proudly been an active member of the Mazamas, serving as a provisional climbing leader. Alongside Bill McLoughlin, Aníbal pioneered the creation of the BCEP Latino group in 2022, which has successfully completed three sessions to date.

The inspiration behind Loco por la Aventura arose a decade ago when Aníbal and María Teresa faced numerous barriers to enjoying outdoor activities after immigrating to the United States. Limited transportation, economic constraints, and a scarcity of resources in Spanish were just some of the challenges that spurred us to create this organization. Today, we take pride in bridging the gap between the Latino community and nature and sports,

overcoming the very obstacles we once encountered.

Would you like to join us as a volunteer and actively contribute to this noble cause? Whether Spanish is your primary language or not, everyone is welcome and needed in our community! If you're interested in participating in our fun-filled activities, learning, teaching based on your own experiences, don't hesitate to sign up today!

Visit our website at www. locoporlaaventura.com to view our updated monthly activity calendar or subscribe to our free newsletter and participate in our monthly giveaways.

See you at the summit.

CONECTANDO LA COMUNIDAD

LATINA CON LA NATURALEZA Y EL DEPORTE: LOCO POR LA AVENTURA

by Maria Teresa Lopes

Imagina un lugar donde la aventura se convierte en la puerta de entrada a la salud física y mental. Ese lugar existe, y se llama: Loco por la Aventura.

Loco por la Aventura es una organización sin fines de lucro nacida en 2020 con la misión apasionante de educar, inspirar y motivar a la comunidad latina (¡y a todos los que deseen unirse a nuestra cultura!) a disfrutar de actividades al aire libre.

Cada año, ofrecemos alrededor de 35 emocionantes actividades de forma gratuita o a muy bajo costo, todas completamente en español. Desde clases de escalada y boulder hasta montañismo, acampada, rafting y backpacking, nuestra oferta está diseñada para todos, sin importar la experiencia previa. ¿El secreto

de nuestro éxito? Nuestros dedicados voluntarios, expertos en sus disciplinas, quienes comparten generosamente su conocimiento con la comunidad.

Fundada por Aníbal Rocheta y María Teresa Lopes, una pareja venezolana que encontró en Portland, Oregon, su hogar ideal gracias a la abundancia de hermosos paisajes naturales. Aníbal, licenciado en turismo en su país de origen, ha sido escalador y montañista profesional durante más de dos décadas. Desde 2014, se enorgullece de ser miembro activo de Mazamas, donde también se desempeña como líder provisional de escalada. Además, junto con Bill McLoughlin, fue pionero en la creación del grupo BCEP Latino en 2022, que ha disfrutado de tres exitosas ediciones hasta la fecha.

La inspiración detrás de Loco por la Aventura surgió hace una década, cuando Aníbal y María Teresa enfrentaron numerosos obstáculos para disfrutar de las actividades al aire libre tras emigrar a Estados Unidos. Transporte limitado,

restricciones económicas y la escasez de recursos en español fueron solo algunas de las barreras que motivaron la creación de esta organización. Hoy, nos enorgullece ser el puente que une a la comunidad latina con la naturaleza y el deporte, superando esas mismas barreras que una vez encontramos.

¿Te gustaría unirte como voluntario y ser parte activa de esta noble causa? ¡No importa si hablas español o no, todos son bienvenidos y necesarios en nuestra comunidad! Si deseas participar en nuestras actividades llenas de diversión, aprendizaje y la oportunidad de enseñar sobre tu propia experiencia, ¡no dudes en inscribirte hoy!

Visita nuestro sitio web www. locoporlaaventura.com para conocer nuestro calendario mensual de actividades actualizado o suscríbete a nuestro boletín gratuito y participa en nuestros sorteos mensuales de grandes premios.

Nos vemos en la cima.

THE QUEERZAMAS: ADVENTURE IS OUT THERE, AND SO ARE WE

by the Queerzamas planning team: Joshua Baker, M. Ciotti, Anna Kolodziejski, and Charlie Owen

Queerness has long existed in the Mazamas, if only at the organization’s margins.

In early 2023, the first openly queer Mazama-wide group dedicated specifically to uplifting and supporting queer, trans, and nonbinary outdoor enthusiasts formed and became the Queerzamas. Our goal was to carve out a space in the organization where LGBTQ2SIA+1 individuals could find community, support, and uplift in the outdoors—because let’s face it, the trail to belonging sometimes needs a bit of re-routing.

1 Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer, Questioning, Two-Spirit, Intersex, Asexual, + queer identities.

The creation of the Queerzamas was driven by those who recognized the value of affinity spaces within outdoor communities, particularly for those whose identities have historically been underrepresented (or even erased) in these settings. Queer-only and queer-focused spaces—whether they be in outdoor education programs, climbs, hikes, or social gatherings—offer visibility, safety, and belonging. While we love a good summit, the Queerzamas is here to show that the most rewarding ascent is creating a community where everyone feels they belong.

Dedicated Queer Affinity Space in Mazama Education Programs Helped Grow the Queerzamas

The Queerzamas’ early success was made possible by queer Mazamas who had long been active in the organization, but its growth is due to the influx of new members thanks to the re-establishment of a dedicated Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) team for queer students in 2022. This BCEP affinity team, made possible through the support of Kirk Newgard and Debbie Dwelle, climb leaders

and allies to the queer community, was a response to the clear need for a safe and inclusive space in outdoor education. While there had been a queer BCEP team in the past, initiated in 2019 by Nate Zeiler and Robin Wilcox, COVID-19 interrupted the experiment for a couple of years. The revival of this team in 2022, and its continuation since then, helped create a foundation for the Queerzamas by fostering a community of queer climbers. One common refrain heard from LGBTQ2SIA+ BCEP students and Queerzamas members is how their experience with the Queerzamas and the Queer BCEP team is often the first time they’ve ever been in an affinity space with other members of the queer community in the outdoors. For many, it’s a revelation—a surprisingly rewarding and affirming experience to be in a supportive environment where they don’t fear discrimination and harassment. This sense of safety and acceptance allows participants to focus entirely on the joy of climbing, hiking, and exploring the outdoors, free from the burdens of societal judgment or marginalization. As one member described it, "Being in the

mountains or at the crag with fellow queer folks is not only empowering but liberating. It’s not just about the physical challenge, but also the emotional freedom to just be— without constantly having to explain who you are.”

Marching With Pride

A campfire gathering during the 2023 Queer BCEP team’s Horsethief weekend at Maryhill Campground sparked the idea for the Queerzamas to march in the Portland Pride Parade. That summer we did! and we were joined by some Mazama allies, including Executive Director Rebekah Phillips and Mazama President Greg Scott. Their support was a testament to the importance of allyship and the visibility it gives our group within the broader Mazama community. Such support also provides additional legitimacy to our presence and sends a clear message: queer climbers belong here, too.

We marched again in Pride this past summer. It isn’t just a parade—it is an experience that helps put the Queerzamas on the map for both the Portland queer community and the Mazamas. We’ve made new connections, and new members have discovered us through our presence. Outdoor recreation groups aren’t often seen marching in Pride, and the Queerzamas stands out as a rare, visible representation of queer adventure in these spaces. By showing up in our harnesses, with ice axes in hand, we’re letting attendees know that queer climbers belong at Smith Rock, on the top of Mt. Hood, and on the trails of the Pacific Northwest. And the Queerzamas is here to build a climbing, mountaineering, and hiking community that welcomes everyone, regardless of identity. The Pride Parade serves as a reminder that we’re out and proud in every space, from the trailhead to the summit.

Thursday of each month from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.) to outdoor crag climbing meetups at Ozone or Smith Rock and group hikes in the Gorge on Mt. Hood, the Queerzamas aims to provide regular opportunities for queer adventurers to clip into the community. We also organize social events, like casual food cart gatherings, because building connections is essential to our existence.

The Queerzamas has a dedicated monthly newsletter that shares upcoming events, news, and opportunities to get involved and connect with other queer adventurers. If you’re a member of the LGBTQ2SIA+ and want to stay in the loop, you can sign up for the newsletter by emailing us at queerzamas@mazamas.

Beyond the Basics: Supporting Queer Climbing Education and Leadership

The Queerzamas also plays a crucial role in supporting the Queer BCEP team by acting as assistants during sessions, providing mentorship, and helping to create a welcoming learning environment. Additionally, the Queerzamas plans queer-only practice sessions for students interested in applying for Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), ensuring that members can develop their technical abilities in a supportive and affirming setting. These practice sessions not only enhance climbing skills but also foster a sense of camaraderie and mutual support among applicants and participants.

org. The Queerzamas also stays connected through our online Discord community where members share advice, plan outings, and cheer each other on. Anyone can follow us on Instagram (@queerzamas).

How Active is the Queerzamas and How Can You Connect with Us?

The Queerzamas hosts a variety of events that bring people together both on and off the trail. From monthly climb nights at Portland Rock Gym NE (fourth

Our volunteer planning team meets monthly to dream up new activities and ensure we’re belaying each other through it all. We’re actively seeking new committee members to help us plan events or help out with different roles. Let us know if you want to join the volunteer planning team!

To further foster a more inclusive and equitable climbing community, the Queerzamas is currently developing a guide and training program for mountaineering leaders. This initiative is centered around creating more welcoming spaces for those in the queer community during climbs, hikes, and in the programs they run. By equipping leaders with the tools and knowledge to support LGBTQ2SIA+ individuals, the Queerzamas aims to ensure that every outdoor adventure is an inclusive and affirming experience for all participants.

Looking Ahead

While the Queerzamas is new, queer members have always been part of the Mazamas, even if not always openly. Now, with the Queerzamas, we’ve built a space where the full spectrum of queer identities can not only participate but lead the way. The future of outdoor recreation is about more than just reaching summits—it’s about ensuring everyone has the support and space they need to climb their own mountains. Because at the end of the day, we’re not just here to find new summits— we’re here to chalk up a new era of outdoor inclusivity. Adventure is out there, and so are we!

Facing page: Queerzamas at the 2024 Portland Pride Parade. Above: Queerzamas at their monthly PRG Queerzama Climb Night. Photos: provided by the Queerzamas.

AN INTERVIEW WITH SARAH DIVER: UNDERSTANDING SHE, THEY, US

by She, They, Us

In this article, we introduce Sarah Diver, the founder of the Mazama affinity group, She, They, Us. After relocating to Portland during the pandemic, Sarah completed the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) in 2022 and quickly became an active member of the Mazamas. Her passion for climbing and community led her to establish the She, They, Us group in 2023, alongside several dedicated volunteers, following her completion of the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS).

Since its inception, She, They, Us has garnered considerable interest, creating a welcoming space for women and femmeidentifying individuals in the climbing community. Sarah has expressed her delight in witnessing the group’s growth and often engages with those curious about

its mission or eager to join. Through her leadership and experience in organizing activities specifically for women and femme-identifying climbers, Sarah aims to illuminate the significance of this affinity space within the broader Mazama community. In this interview, Sarah shares her journey, insights, and the impact of She, They, Us on outdoor activities and inclusivity in climbing.

What is an affinity space?

We see the word “affinity” a lot in descriptions of the natural world and in science, and the Merriam Webster dictionary refers to a few definitions as, “sympathy marked by community of interest” or “an attraction to or liking for something.” The word, “affinity,” to me captures something important, which is the idea of different, unique entities or individuals coming together under a broader shared purpose or quality. Sharing an affinity for something is not an erasure of one’s uniqueness, but rather, a celebration of that.

An affinity group is simply a community of people who gather together because they

share a common experience or identity. In the workplace, this is often called an employee resource group (ERG). Different groups can have different goals, from creating policy changes in an organization to socializing, and an affinity group often self-identifies its goals. The beauty of an affinity group is that there is no one “right” way to be in community with other people. Like all relationships, it is something that grows and takes on new meaning with each iteration. What may be a priority for the Melanated Mazamas or the Queerzamas may not be a priority for She, They, Us— and that’s what makes affinity spaces great!

Why did you create She, They, Us?

The simplest answer is that I created She, They, Us because I personally benefited from those types of organizations early in my climbing career. I wanted to pay it forward as a volunteer with the Mazamas.

Before moving to Portland, I lived and worked in New York City for six years. Leaving my home state of Colorado and finding myself smack-dab in the middle of the concrete jungle, I was desperate to

get outdoors. I found it difficult to make friends who shared my love for carrying a heavy pack several miles over rocky trails day-in and day-out, so I turned to the internet to find a community of like-minded people. As a single woman at the time, I didn’t feel comfortable backpacking or leaving the confines of the city with strangers I met online. Through a women’s hiking Facebook group, I discovered the Outdoor Women’s Alliance (OWA), a nonprofit designed to connect women interested in the outdoors. With OWA, I was able to find a safe space to meet up with other backpackers, but I also was introduced to other activities through guided experiences OWA offered, like rock climbing in the Adirondacks and ice climbing in New Hampshire. Signing up for these types of activities led me to join a climbing gym for the first time and feel more confident in improving my skills. I was totally hooked on climbing after those experiences, and I never would have thought to try these types of activities if it weren’t for the opportunities and safe learning environment with experienced mentors that the OWA provided. In other words, I didn’t imagine that someone like me with little-to-no experience climbing could even get started in the sport. Learning to climb ice and rock alongside other novice women made me feel like I could try and fail without judgment, a point I will return to later on. This was invaluable to my success later on in the Mazamas. I would later go on to lead women/femme-identifying backpacking trips for OWA, and through my connections with OWA, join an all-female fundraiser climb of Mt. Adams, where I raised money to support breast cancer research through Jody’s Climb for Hope.

have found my way to climbing in quite the same way, if at all, which is why I started She, They, Us.

Why does the Mazamas need an affinity space like She, They, Us?

The Mazamas has had a long history of women participating in and shaping the organization since the very early days when ladies climbed Mt. Hood in corsets and long wool skirts. Today, there are countless examples of women in leadership roles throughout the organization, including our Executive Director, and the many female Mazama members and climb leaders learning, growing, climbing hard things, and being active thriving participants in every aspect of the community. I find that many of my closest friends and climbing partners are men, and I don’t think twice about it.

comfortable enough to apply for BCEP or join a street ramble with the Mazamas, there are probably many still out there wishing they felt “brave” enough to participate. In my view, it’s our responsibility as female leaders in the outdoors to open doors for others who have the desire but not the capacity (for any reason) to participate. As the ones who do feel comfortable climbing with men and challenging ourselves in the wilderness, it’s important to think of the many people who could benefit from our skillset, knowledge, and wisdom – as opposed to saying, “Well I did it, so why can’t they?”

She, They, Us was created to form a new pathway into the Mazamas and support the kinds of folks I hope to see continue to shepherd this organization into the future.

As the many wonderful volunteer instructors in the Mazamas know, all it takes sometimes is one kind word of encouragement to change someone’s perspective of themselves, which can mean the difference between “I can’t do it” to “I can try.” For some people, this type of support best comes from someone with their shared experience or identity. Each of us were beginners in this sport at some point in our lives, and She, They, Us offers just one of many ways for someone to learn how to get outside.

Who can participate in She, They, Us events?

When She, They, Us first got started, we felt it was important to be as inclusive as possible. To put it simply, our affinity space is for historically underrepresented gender expressions in the climbing and outdoor space.

Moving to Portland in 2020, I applied for BCEP thanks to my newfound confidence and passion for ice and rock climbing that I discovered on the East coast. If it had not been for my early positive experiences in addition to the feeling of safety I had through the OWA, I don’t know if I would

Facing

Above:

They, Us.

So, if women seem to thrive in the Mazamas, why then do women, femmeidentifying, and genderqueer people need an affinity space?

The answer is very simple: it’s a question of access.

It’s easy to point to the many amazing female and genderqueer people in the Mazamas who are crushing it, and say, “I don’t see a problem here!” It’s exactly what we don’t see that is what She, They, Us hopes to address. While there are numerous examples of women who felt

An affinity space by definition is for people who identify with a particular identity, which does mean some gender expressions are excluded, specifically cismen who have had the most access to this sport.

I identify as a cis-woman1 and female in what most might consider to be a heteronormative way, but expressing femininity and womanhood can take many

1 Cis-male/Cis-female refers to a person whose gender identity aligns with the sex they were assigned at birth. More information can be found on this website for those who would like to consult a specific reference: www.transhub.org.au/101/cis continued on next page

page: Sarah Diver leads a She, They, Us sunset hike up the Gorge classic, Angel’s Rest.

She, They, Us leaders, Sarah Diver, Julie Tembunkiart, and Melanie Potter, enjoy an alpine tour up Palmer.

Photos: provided by the She,

different forms and do not live within a hierarchy. We wanted to let others who identify as femme, genderqueer, trans, nonbinary or otherwise, to feel welcome. I’ve had to learn from and look to others who know more about gender identity than me to shape language around inclusion for the group, and it’s something I’m still learning more about. One of the beauties of being a leader of an affinity space is the opportunity to learn from the many wonderful people who participate. Together, we teach each other how to be more empathetic and welcoming in the outdoors, which makes us better climbers and humans.

previous page.

■ Many heterosexual women enjoy recreating in an environment where they are less likely to experience sexual harassment or romantic advances from single straight men.

What kinds of challenges do women and femmeidentifying people face in the outdoors?

As a leader for many She, They, Us activities, I’ve heard many anecdotes about the ways this space operates to create a sense of safety for participants.

I want to highlight a few things I hear repeatedly from those who are appreciative this type of environment:

■ In a sport dominated by primarily white cis-men, many women and genderqueer people feel they need to have an elevated level of competency just to be able to participate. Having a place where they can make mistakes, ask questions without judgment, and try new things without the presence of men has been a relief for many She, They, Us participants.

■ Many women who were born as female appreciate a space where they can talk about the unique challenges specific to their bodies in the outdoors, particularly in a culture where there has historically been a lot of shame concerning openly sharing about personal hygiene and body functions for women.

■ Being surrounded by other women and femme-identifying people gives many participants a sense of calm where they can be fully themselves, as there tends to be a less competitive atmosphere.

Some women who have been victims of sexual violence, sexual harassment, and/ or stalking feel more comfortable climbing with only women and femme-identifying people.

Each person comes to the Mazamas with a unique life experience. She, They, Us can be a place to offer solace to those for whom the traditional mixed gender activities feel challenging, overwhelming, or just not what they want.

Where did the name come from?

When a small group of us got together to begin thinking of a name, several people offered different suggestions, and we took a vote on which is the favorite.

She, They, Us won in part because it exemplifies what we do. People who use she/her pronouns and people who use they/them pronouns collectively come together under a “they” plural to become an “us” community.

What kinds of things does She, They, Us do? How can someone get involved?

I send out a monthly newsletter with a round-up of all our activities, which range from climbs, ski tours, and hikes to more casual meet-ups. We have also had She, They, Us learning opportunities like this fall’s multipitch climbing class. If anyone is interested, be sure to check out upcoming She, They, Us activies and events on the Mazama calendar.

This past spring was the first-ever She, They, Us BCEP group, which was led by the extremely talented Christine Troy and Toby Contreras. Our new social media guru, Kris Holmes, was part of that group and now runs our Instagram account (@shetheyusmazamas). Kris does a fantastic job and advertises our latest events! Highly recommend following us on Instagram thanks to Kris.

We host a monthly indoor climb night, which the amazing Julie Tembunkiart helps oversee. This occurs the second Thursday of each month. We meet in the lobby of either Portland Rock Gym or Movement Portland at 6:30 p.m., and we welcome all skills and abilities. You don’t need to be a Mazama member to participate in our climb nights. We also sometimes partner with other femme-focused initiatives both locally and nationally, like SheJumps, Ladies Climbing Coalition, and AIARE’s Professional Growth Network. I love to think of the Mazamas as just one of many places where women and genderqueer people can find resources to get outside.

I’m looking forward to organizing future collaborations, classes, and events with She, They, Us! We always welcome volunteers who want to get involved. Anyone interested in learning more about us can contact us via email at shetheyus@ mazamas.org.

What about cis-male allies?

For events like climb nights, people of all skill levels are welcome, but that space is intended for those identifying as female, femme, trans, or non-binary. We ask that cis-males don't attend except when a particular event invites them to do so. We have some amazing cis-male allies, teachers, assistants, and volunteers who have helped create this space, but not every event and activity includes them.

Above: Leesa Tymofichuk, Sarah Dugan, Melinda Hugo, and Sarah Diver enjoy the summit of Rooster Rock on a mentorship climb facilitated by She, They, Us.

WILDERNESS THERAPY: THE POWER OF THE ACCESS PASS

by Gavi Piper

In April of this year I was diagnosed with ADHD, depression, and anxiety. I’d lived 25 years clueless that my “normal” was so much harder than it had to be. My mental health suffered. My interpersonal relationships suffered. Eventually, I triggered into crisis.

Thanks to incredible providers and medication, it’s impossible to describe how much better I’m doing now. Sure, my perpetually lost stethoscope is a running joke at work. But I’m less reactive. Less stuck perseverating. Happier. More confident. Present in the now. Last weekend, I realized how much more calmly I navigate scary trad leads and unplanned sufferfests. How my new baseline better facilitates communication, problem solving, mutual trust and appreciation. Throughout the entire mentally and physically exhausting process, the wilderness has remained my steadfast refuge. I’ve done my seeking, my crying, my

fighting and my healing in the mountains. Because of that, one shining silver lining to my diagnoses has been obtaining an Access Pass.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass provides admittance to National Parks and Federal Recreation Lands for U.S. citizens and residents with permanent disabilities. It also provides discounts on some amenity fees.

The Access Pass is free. It is good for life. There is no age requirement (kids are eligible). Disabilities do not have to be physical, visible, nor “100 percent.”

The pass can be obtained in person, online, or through the mail. It requires a valid government ID and documentation of permanent disability. My physician’s note is simple: “In my medical opinion, Gavi is eligible for an Interagency Access Pass. She has a permanent disability that limits her communication and sensory processing.”

Unfortunately, the Access Pass is woefully underpromoted. In my experience, very few healthcare professionals— including the practitioners writing physician’s statements—know it exists. After years in the wilderness industry, I first heard about the pass from my non-

outdoorsy best friend who is diabetic. When I lose my pass, I replace it at the next Forest Service Ranger Station I come across. Often, someone working behind the desk learns about it for the first time.

If awareness among professionals in positions to facilitate obtaining an Access Pass is so low, what proportion of the eligible population lacks knowledge that this benefit exists?

Disability to any degree is a resource black hole. I hold no illusions regarding my personal privilege, health literacy, or relative comfort in the backcountry. But for so many people, an Access Pass may truly make the difference that enables access to a wilderness area—and opportunity to experience the myriad of benefits we in the Mazamas know and love.

Maybe this applies to you. I guarantee it applies to someone you know. So spread the word. Get yourself, your loved ones, and your friends’ loved ones into the wilderness. And maybe hitch a ride with them, because any one person’s Access Pass covers entrance for the entire (recreational) vehicle.

Full Access Pass details are available at store.usgs.gov/access-pass.

Gavi Piper and Ryan Schuller on Lundin Peak

RAMBLIN ’ MAZAMAS

by Lisa Ripps, Mazama Ramble Leader

For me, the word “ramble” evokes a leisurely stroll in the verdant English countryside, on a sunny afternoon. But say “ramble” to a group of Mazamas and a different image emerges. Picture a group of people clad in brightly-colored clothing, varying from teenagers to people in their eighties, all hiking at the same time in groups of different speeds, laughing and cheering each other on. We hike together rain or shine, year-round, every Tuesday and Thursday from downtown, and also from the MMC on Wednesdays from the spring to fall (dates to be determined).

Downtown rambles provide a chance to explore some unusual trails and parts of the city that even long-time residents or natives may have never seen before. Want to explore a WPA-built stone building? How about hike in the dark to a building with spiderweb windows, and maybe see a family of owls?

Ramble up to Council Crest, the high point in Portland. See new parts of the Rose Garden. How about a private showing of an exhibit at Pittock Mansion? Watch orange newts swimming in a pond, or hike on soft pine-scented duff in Forest Park. View the twinkling city lights from high above the tree line. Rambles cover anywhere from four to eight miles, in two hours.

And on Wednesdays, get a good workout hiking up to scenic Mt. Tabor. All rambles are led by experienced volunteer ramble leaders and are inclusive, welcoming, free, and open to the public. They are a great way to get fitter or to maintain your fitness during the off-season for most climbing or gorge hiking. And you get to make new friends and meet people who share your interests. Plus, rambles are a great way for new or potential members to get to know the Mazamas and to hear about the multitude of programs we offer.

Please consider joining us either at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (SE 43rd and Stark) a little before 6 p.m. on Wednesdays, or downtown at Keen Garage (NW 13th and Glisan, there’s usually free parking available on site) a little before 6 p.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays yearround.

Please bring a headlamp or flashlight and a water bottle, and dress for the weather in layers. Can't wait to see you there!

Above: Mazama Ramblers at Zoolights.

Photos: Lisa Ripps.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS MINUTES

AUGUST 2, 2024

Attending: Greg Scott, President: David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Matthew Sundling, Secretary; Charles Barker, Chris Jaworski, Claire Tenscher, Debbie Dwelle, Marty Hanson; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director; Lena Toney, Development Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:03 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

MEETING AGENDA

■ Meeting Minutes Approval

■ Prior meeting minutes approval requires a vote.

■ Vote on public and executive session meeting minutes. Motion to approve July 2024 set of meeting minutes: Motion (Charles B.), second (Liz C.), 8 in favor, 0 against, 0 abstained.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ In lieu of an oral report, a written report submitted by the Executive Director was reviewed. In July, the Mazamas submitted two foundation grant applications: one to the Oregon Community Foundation to improve the sustainability of Mazama Lodge and another to the Autzen Foundation to support an equitycentered tuition support program. Financial reviews for FY22 were completed, and FY23 is underway, with a liability insurance site inspection scheduled for August 9. program support involved attending various events and planning a mountain running program for 2025, while upcoming staff activities include mid-year check-ins, job description updates, and succession planning. Additional highlights include the ongoing BCEP debrief to address volunteer and instructor challenges, contract extensions for the lodge, and preparations for the upcoming Gala, including filming a special appeal video and coordinating sponsorships.

TREASURER’S REPORT

■ A presentation was given to the board, but a consolidated written report was not provided.

COMMITTEE REPORT(S)

ExEcutivE committEE:

□ The Executive Committee completed the review of the revised employee handbook and returned it, with comments, to the Executive Director for final revisions. The committee also submitted a proposed bylaws amendment to establish a Governance Committee and a proposal for the Governance Committee charter. NomiNatiNg committEE:

□ The Nominating Committee completed a board member selfassessment and developed a board matrix detailing skills, backgrounds, experiences, and some demographic information. This matrix will help identify needs and gaps in board composition in preparation for recruiting future candidates.

gala updatE: StEpS togEthEr

□ Lena Toney, the Mazama Development Director, provided an update on the Gala, reviewing ticket and sponsorship sales to-date as well as donations received. So far, 83 out of 200 tickets have been sold, and unrestricted donations through the gala event portal have reached $8,010. Four sponsorships have been secured, generating $8,000 in revenue.The total sales revenue from tickets, sponsorships, and donations is $24,815 as of yesterday. Lena reminded everyone to purchase their tickets soon before they sell out. She encouraged anyone interested in making additional donations to contact her.

M. J. MURDOCK CHARITABLE TRUST BOARD LEADERSHIP TRAINING

■ With guidance from M. J. Murdock Charitable Trust coach Deborah Wilds, the board has proposed a bylaws amendment to transition the existing Nominating Committee to a Governance Committee. This would be a more comprehensive oversight advisory committee that would encompass all the nominating responsibilities, plus additional responsibilities such as reviewing and recommending bylaw changes, developing governance policies and procedures, overseeing nomination and election processes, and conducting

board effectiveness reviews. The board and Executive Director met with Deborah Wilds in a two-hour working session on July 26th to explore how to create a Governance Committee that best fits the needs of the board for effective and efficient operations.

■ Additional bylaw changes were proposed to modify logistical constraints around board member and officer elections. These changes do not substantially alter the elections but provide more flexibility, allowing for more adaptable election timing to accommodate organizational needs.

ESTABLISHING A GOVERNANCE COMMITTEE

■ Following the M. J. Murdock Charitable Trust Board Leadership Training that Mazama board members participated in, we have defined the need to establish a Governance Committee. This new committee will assume and expand upon the responsibilities of the Nominating Committee. It will take on additional advisory and governance duties as determined by the board, aiming to create a more effective, sustainable, and well-managed board. The Governance Committee will be responsible for reviewing and recommending bylaw changes, developing governance policies and procedures, overseeing nomination and election processes, and conducting board effectiveness reviews.

■ The board reviewed two key documents to establish the Governance Committee:

□ Bylaw Amendments: These convert the Nominating Committee into a Governance Committee, which will serve as an advisory body.

□ Initial Governance Committee Charter: This document thoroughly defines the committee’s responsibilities and internal structure.

■ The board plans to vote on the motion to adopt the bylaw amendments and the charter through an email vote in the coming month.

EXECUTIVE SESSION

■ The executive session lasted 15 minutes and focused on budget and finance

continued on next page

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

Aug 2, 2024-Mt. Whittier, Norway Pass Traverse. Judith Baker, Leader. Peter Boag, Kenneth Umenthum, Bill E. Lowder.

Aug 2, 2024-Lexington Tower, North Face. Glenn Farley Widener, Leader; Mark Stave, Assistant Leader. Linda Musil, Erin Reaksecker, Peter Allen, Aaron Owen.

Aug 2, 2024-Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Glenn Farley Widener, Leader; Mark Stave, Assistant Leader. Linda Musil, Erin Reaksecker, Peter Allen, Aaron Owen.

Aug 3, 2024-Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge. Jen Travers, Leader, Andy Nuttbrock, Assistant Leader. Matthew Barbisan, Taylor DeVilbiss, Max Dobbler, Leesa Tymofichuk, Erin Courtney, Alissa Goslin.

Aug 4, 2024-Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys. Ryan Reed, Leader; Rachel Faulkner, Assistant Leader. Mikel Rhodes, Claire Vandevoorde, Collin Edwards-Hill, Anupama Kurpad, Cameron Soane.

Aug 11, 2024-Mt. Stuart, West Ridge. Darren Ferris, Leader; Drew Dykstra, Assistant Leader. Walt Benz, Kristi Kose, Max Ciotti, Benjamin Buckingham.

Aug 11, 2024-Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Walker McAninch-Runzi, Leader; Toby Contreras, Assistant Leader. Christine Troy, Andrew Conley, Brad Dewey, Erin Reaksecker.

Aug 15, 2024-Castle, Pinnacle & Plummer Peaks, Standard Route. Lisa F Ripps, Leader; Eric Einspruch, Assistant Leader. Merche Cuevas Trol, Chelsea Ashcraft, Douglas Filiak, Mark Creevey, John Park, Joanne Morris.

Aug 17, 2024-South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Peter Boag, Leader, Greg Scott, Assistant Leader. Jackson Lang, Terria Heng, Stephen De Herrera, Luke Davis.

Aug 17, 2024-Ingalls Peak, South Face. Jen Travers, Leader; Justin Colquhoun, Assistant Leader. Emily Carpenter, Tuller Schricker, Arjun Sudhir, Joe Preston.

Aug 18, 2024-Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge. Duncan A Hart, Leader; Jessica L. Minifie, Assistant Leader. Mark Creevey, Alastair Cox, Jackson Lang, Nina Wohlfahrt, Priya Mangesh Kandharkar, Adam Marion.

Sep 1, 2024-Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Ann marie Caplan, Leader; Max Ciotti, Assistant Leader, Alicia Antoinette, Assistant Leader. Sabrina Wolfe, Lydia Hernandez, Theo Pham, Kelly O’Loughlin, Victoria Fox, Kristina Prosser.

Sep 6, 2024-Santiam Pinnacle, South Face. Lisa F Ripps, Leader; Michael Quigley, Assistant Leader. Trixie Honeywell, Mark Creevey, Thomas Clarke, Casey Ferguson. Sep 8, 2024-Matterhorn, Ice Lake. Lindsey Addison, Leader. Stephen De Herrera, Melanie Means, Katie Polanshek, Elizabeth Reed, Jessie Cunningham, Midori Watanabe, Mike Harley.

Sep 13, 2024-Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Gary R Ballou, Leader; Scott Stevenson, Assistant Leader. Margaret Munroe, Colleen Rawson, Kat Miracle, Ann Marie Caplan.

Sep 14, 2024-Mt. Hood (Wy’east), Eliot Glacier Tour. Andrew Bodien, Leader; Eric Einspruch, Assistant Leader. Nachiket Rajderkar, Eleonore Jones, Nicole Diggins, Cameron Barclift, Mike Harley.

Sep 15, 2024-Mt. Hood (Wy’east), Eliot Glacier Tour. Andrew Bodien, Leader; Eric Einspruch, Assistant Leader. Laura Russell, Ralph Daub, Margaret Munroe, Walker Pruett, Andres Mendoza, Karthik Periagaram, Casey Ferguson.

Sep 15, 2024-Mt. Bretherton, Lena Lakes. Bill Stein, Leader; Melanie Means, Assistant Leader. Kelly Reinhart.

Sep 20, 2024-Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard. Gary Bishop, Leader; Bashar Al-Rawi, Assistant Leader. Rahul Jain, Elizabeth Rupp, Andres Mendoza, Arthur Davis, Finn Ramos, Melissa Arnold.

Sep 21, 2024-Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge. Joe Preston (he/him), Leader; Lindsey Addison, Assistant Leader. Zachary Hayes, Kelly O’Loughlin, Karthik Periagaram, Sean Kuiawa.

Sep 21, 2024-Santiam Pinnacle, South Face. Andrew Leaf, Leader; Lynne Pedersen, Assistant Leader. Kelly Riley, Kevin Swearengin, John Rowland, Brad Dewey, Zack Boisselle, Kristine de Leon, Hans Eugene Friedrich.

Sep 21, 2024-Mt. Stone, West Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader; Greg A Scott, Assistant Leader. Astrid Zervas, Evan McDowell, Frank Liao, David Gross, Matthew Barbisan, Luke Davis, Aimee Frazier, Alec Studier, Eddie Newsom.

Sep 22, 2024-Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail. Tim Scott, Leader; Astrid Zervas, Assistant Leader. Evan McDowell, Frank Liao, David Gross, Matthew Barbisan, Luke Davis, Samantha Dowgin, Aimee Frazier, Alec Studier, Eddie Newsom.

Sep 28, 2024-South Sister, Green Lakes. Stacey Reding, Leader; Aimee Filimoehala, Leader; Evan McDowell, Allison Boyd, Astha Sethi, Nikki Thompson, Jonathon Baker, Kenneth Umenthum.

Sep 28, 2024-Naches Peak, Chinook Pass. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Mark Creevey, Melanie Means, Elizabeth Reed, Kristina Prosser, Sue Dimin, Bill Lowder, Reuel Kurzet, Sep 28, 2024-Yakima Peak, East Ridge. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Mark Creevey, Melanie Means, Elizabeth Reed, Kristina Prosser, Bill Lowder, Reuel Kurzet.

Sep 28, 2024-Del Campo Peak, South Gully. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Matt Mudrow, Christopher Chan, Sara Elizabeth Jensen, Alex Kunsevich, Matthew Gordon, Sergei Kunsevich, Brad S Wood, Zack Crandell, Tejas Prakash, Rick Busing.

Sep 28, 2024-Castle, Pinnacle & Plummer Peaks, Standard Route. John Sterbis, Leader; Rob Sinnott, Assistant Leader. Chelsea Ashcraft, Merche Cuevas Trol, Frannie Gollnick, Natalie Linton, Becca Hawkins.

Sep 29, 2024-Eagle Chutla Peaks, Longmire Trail. Bob Breivogel, Leader; Sue Dimin, Assistant Leader. Elizabeth Reed, Kristina Prosser, Bill Lowder, Nicole Diggins, Reuel Kurzet.

Sep 29, 2024-Gothic Peak, East Side. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Matt Mudrow, Christopher Chan, Sara Elizabeth Jensen, Alex Kunsevich, Matthew Gordon, Sergei Kunsevich, Brad Wood, Zack Crandell, Tejas Prakash, Rick Busing.

Sep 29, 2024-Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge. Aimee Filimoehala, Leader; Stacey Reding, Leader; Evan McDowell, Allison Boyd, Astha Sethi, Nikki Thompson, Jonathon Baker, Kenneth Umenthum.

Board, continued from previous page.

discussions. No decisions requiring a vote were made.

ADJOURNMENT

■ The meeting was adjourned at 7:49 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

Editor’s Note: The September, 2024 Board of Directors meeting minutes were unavailable at the time of publication. They will run in the next issue.

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM

SAYING GOODBYE

RICHARD PAUL BARDEN (DICK)

DECEMBER 20, 1932 – MAY 4, 2024

A lifelong member of the Mazamas and, at the age of 18, a Guardian Peak Award recipient, Dick was also a longtime member of the Mountaineers. In his younger years, he spent his summers at the YMCA camp on Spirit Lake at Mount St. Helens. From that beginning, Dick spent the next 80 years exploring the Cascades, the Olympics, the Brooks and Alaska Ranges, the Rockies, the Appalachian Mountains, the Alps, the Dolomites, the Himalayas, and any other mountain ranges he could reach. He summited Mt. Rainier six times. Until the end, Dick’s two favorite mountain regions in the world remained Squak Mountain, in Issaquah, Washington, and the Steinernes Meer, in Germany.

Dick’s family suggests remembrances to the Washington Trails Association or the Issaquah Alp Trails Club.

GILBERT HAWES

DECEMBER 3, 1925 – MAY 22, 2024 Mazama member 1968–1984.

MARIANNE GERKE OTT

DECEMBER 10, 1925 – AUGUST 15, 2024

Marianne Gerke Ott, a lifelong Oregonian and longtime Gresham resident, died last summer at the age of 99. She was the daughter of Walter H. and Florence Holmes Gerke, both renowned local landscape architects. Marianne’s mother had been a Mazama member since 1935, which means at the time of Marianne’s death the family had a run of nearly 90 years of continuous membership. Marianne herself joined the Mazamas in 1942 at the age of 17, making her one of the longest individual members in Mazama history. Showing the fervor with which she approached the rest of her life, Marianne dove right in and had procured the Guardian Peaks Award by 1943, in the days long before BCEP. She followed that achievement with the Oregon Peaks Award in 1947, and achieved the 16 Northwest Peaks Award by 1950, the sixth Mazama woman to receive this honor. By the age of just 21, she was a full-fledged Mazama

climb leader, and continued to lead and assist on climbs until 1950. Marianne married David Ott in 1951. She was one of the rare women on the Climbing Committee from 1950 to 1951, and also served on the Executive Council from 1955 to 1957.

Although Marianne gave up climbing in her 50s, she continued to hike, swim, and stay active working on her threeacre spread in Gresham, or tending her 6,000-square-foot vegetable garden. In addition, she grew her artistic skills by focusing on woodworking, painting, and pottery. She was also a long-time volunteer with the Gresham Art Committee, receiving their Golden Note Award for her service in 2009.

From climbing achievements to a long career in education and extensive international travel, to accomplishments in the art world and horticulture, it would be an understatement to say that Marianne led a full life. More like she wrung every minute out of 99 years.

Here, finally, is a non-apocryphal story that illuminates what you might expect from Marianne Gerke Ott. After graduating from Oregon State College (now OSU) with honors in May of 1947, she wondered what to do with her summer. With the Oregon Peaks Award already under her belt, she decided that she would spend the summer “climbing some mountains.” That consisted of going on 15 Mazama climbs in 13 weeks between the first of June and the first of September. She summited everything but Mt. Adams in that run (going back later successfully), and was an assistant leader on five of the climbs, thus setting a standard of toughness and tenacity for generations of Mazama women climbers to come. You see, she was in a hurry to get to the first teaching job of her career, in Bend, but also to get elected to Bend’s premier ski club, the Skyliners, the first woman ever in that position.

RAY MOSSER

NOVEMBER, 1935–SEPTEMBER, 2024

Ray Mosser had a deep passion for the outdoors, along with a love for art and creativity. Born in Portland, he grew up nearby and was a proud high school graduate, and later, college graduate.

Following his high school graduation, he served in the Navy, which took him to many remarkable places. Upon returning home, he met the love of his life, Joan, and they shared a long and fulfilling marriage.

During the 1960s and 1970s, Ray worked briefly for the Forest Service while Joan pursued her career in nursing. Together, they climbed the 16 major peaks in the Northwest with the Mazamas, a shared achievement they treasured. Ray and Joan were yet another Mazama “power couple” who were involved in a range of Mazama activities. After snapping up the three major climbing awards in just four years, Ray was a climb leader for 18 years. He also served on the Climbing Committee and the Lodge Committee. In addition, he was also an active hike leader.

Even after the Mossers had children in the late 1960s, Ray’s passion for the outdoors never waned. He transitioned from mountaineering to whitewater rafting, navigating many of the Northwest’s rivers, including the Deschutes, Rogue, and Salmon.

Ray was also a strong support to Joan on many Mazama outings to destinations such as Banff, Canada, Baja, Mexico, and the Grand Tetons in Wyoming. And, of course, they both served on the Outing Committee.

One of Ray’s unique traits was his love for creativity. Notably, he collaborated on the creation of the ice axe chandelier inside the Mazama Lodge in Government Camp and designed the lodge’s front outdoor metal sign.

He often remarked on how long he could stare at the beauty of the mountains and marvel at the majesty of evergreen trees, especially the Tamarack. One of the last things he said was, “life just isn’t right without snow” and that he wished to return as a raven. He is survived by his two children.

In lieu of flowers, please consider a donation to the Mazamas (mazamas.org/ donate).

RUTH SELID

JULY 8, 1949 – SEPTEMBER 11, 2024

Ruth was a Mazama member for 33 years. She was an active hiker and joined several outings.

MAZAMA VALUES

Safety

We believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

Education

We believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

Volunteerism

We believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

Community

We believe camaraderie, friendship, and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

Competence

We believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers, and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities, and judgment required of their roles.

Credibility

We believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

Stewardship

We believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives, and sustain a healthy organization.

Respect

We believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

Whether you are new to the Northwest, a seasoned backcountry traveler, a longtime Portland resident who’s ready to start exploring, or somewhere in between, we can connect you to the hiking, climbing, and skiing adventures you seek.

■ Climb a mountain

■ Go rock climbing

■ Hike or backpack

■ Backcountry ski or snowshoe

■ Discover canyoneering

■ Meet interesting people

■ Learn new outdoor skills

■ Check out our library

■ Stay at our mountain lodge

■ See a presentation

■ Discover new places

■ Trek in a foreign country

■ Join an outing or expedition

■ Fix a trail

■ ... and so much more!

CONTACT US

Mazama Mountaineering Center

527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR, 97215

Phone: 503-227-2345

Email: help@mazamas.org

Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

Mazama Lodge

30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR 97028

Phone: 503-272-9214

Email: mazamalodge@mazamas.org

Hours: Closed

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Members: Darrin Gunkel, chair; Peter Boag, Aimee Frazier, Becca Mischel, Owen Lazur, Ali Gray, Claire Tenscher, Ryan Reed, and Jen Travers.

(publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF

MATHEW BROCK

Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT

Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

REBEKAH PHILLIPS

Executive Director rebekahphillips@mazamas.org

BRENDAN SCANLAN

Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org

LENA TONEY

Development Director lenatoney@mazamas.org

CATHY WILDE

Finance & Administration Manager cathywilde@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Above: Members of She, They, Us on a sunset hike up Angels Rest.

Photo: She, They, Us