Baby Flat Cap Sewing Instructions
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Hello from Australia. Thank you for your purchase of my sewing hat pattern. First of all cut out all your pattern pieces. In these photos I have cut out a soft iron interfacing as well as the main pattern pieces, so that I may iron it on to the wrong side of my fabric to give it more body and to stabilise the fabric. This interfacing step is optional.
Stabilised and ironed main fabric on the back of the fabric
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The ironed on interfacing onto the back of the fabric to stabilise the fabric before sewing up the back seam.
The next step will be to sew the back seam following the 6 mm seam allowance given on the pattern then you are going to sew up the side seams in the following step
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I mark the point of the dart, that I am going to sew up to. I mark it with an awl, by piercing it through the pattern, to make a small hole in the fabric and lining, so that I may then put a pin it so I know where to end my dart. You can use a tailors tack or a pin mark or chalk as well to mark the spot. As mentioned previously I decided to iron interfacing on the back of my fabric to add stability to the fabric and give the hat more body. I then place a pin where that little hole is, to know where to begin sewing from
Sew up the back seam following the 6 mm seam allowance given on the pattern and finishing at the spot where you had marked with a pin earlier.
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I start sewing from the pin down towards the end of the dart, which I then back stitch
Iron back seam open so it lays flat.
Iron back seam open so it lays flat.
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**Important step** right sides together, then fold the hat into half and put a crease in the centre at the top with your iron, this is going to be your centre front fold for which to match up the sidewall piece so you can then start pinning from the middle out. **Please note that the longer edge gets pinned to the main body of the hat.** 5
Match centre fold with centre front fold then pin from the middle to the outside edge.
Pin around the edge and then stitch the two seams together following the seam allowance given on the pattern. You can top stitch on the outside, with the seams ironed open on the inside, if you want more stability and detailing.
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After having pinned around the edge, then stitch the sidewall and main body together following the seam allowance given on the pattern
stitch top and sides together. How the hat looks at this stage
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Next step is to pin the two pieces of the brim together, which have had iron on interfacing applied to them, then stitch around the circular outside edge following the seam allowance, turn to the right side out, and press. I then put a basting stitch line inside the 6 mm seam allowance
I have then folded the brim into half and put a pin in the half mark as well putting a pin in the centre front of the hat. This is demonstrated on the following page.
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I folded the brim into half and put a pin in the half mark as well putting a pin in the centre front of the hat. I then pin where the centre pins are outwards to the edge of the brim, and sew the brim to the main body of the hat.
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Baste the brim to the main body of the hat about 4 mm from the raw edge. The brim will be sewed again later on at a 6 mm allowance when the lining is put into the hat.
Brim sewn to the main body of the hat.
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Stitch the brim down to the main hat, by smoothing the brim into the right position on the cap making sure there isn’t any wrinkle underneath it, then stitch the peak to the main cap 6 mm away from the edge of the peak, this will hold the peak in place. Or you could use a snap press if you prefer.
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Now it’s time to sew up the lining. Take your awl or pin and make a hole in the lining fabric where the dart is to finish, and with right sides together, sew up your back dart, in the same manner as you did on your main body of the hat.
Back dart sewn up.
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**Important step** right sides together, then fold the hat into half and put a crease in the centre at the top with your iron, this is going to be your centre front fold for which to match up the sidewall piece so you can then start pinning from the middle out. **Please note that the longer edge gets pinned to the main body of the hat.**
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Match centre fold with centre front fold then pin from the middle to the outside edge.
Pin around the edge and then stitch the two seams together following the seam allowance given on the
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Lining top and sidewalls stitched together, and turned to right side
Now the right side of the cap gets the lining placed inside it, with the right side of the lining showing towards you.
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Now the right side of the cap gets the lining placed inside it, with the right side of the lining showing towards you and and pinned into place, in readiness for stitching the lining to the cap.
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Right side of lining facing up towards you stitch around the lower edge of the cap
How the hat looks at this stage, inside and out and the next step is to apply the gros grain ribbon to the inside of the cap.
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Pin the gros grain ribbon or bias ribbon around the outside edge of the cap, overlapping the edge of the ribbon, then stitch it to the hat using a 6 mm seam allowance
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The headband ribbon is now stitched to the hat, ready to be turned to the inside of the hat and held into place with a few catch stitches around the edges to hold it down. Then give your hat a final steam press, and et voila! it’s ready to go!
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A lovely version of the hat that one of my customers made from the pattern and kindly sent me a photo of her finished hat. www.mchats.etsy.com
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This version of the hat was made by the talented Jen, from www.minefull.etsy.com
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