7539 CERTIFICATE 4 PRACTICAL
Acknowledgement to the teacher John Nolan
Flat metal objects turn the light up The teacher demonstrated how to set up the objects on the table with a range of different lighting scenarios and also showed us the difference in the image, when he changed the ISO to 200, in the software, and re-took the photo. He also demonstrated to us the values in the image located at the top of the screen and mention the readings of 245-244-245-244, and said it was to almost medium density for printing, (255). He also put a small piece of foam as a reflector, into the set up, to reflect some light onto the handle of the knife, to show the detail of the wood. The thing that was impressed upon us was that to change the intensity of the shiny blade you have turn the light up – moving the light closer does not work. You always change the intensity of the light. You need a bigger light source if you are using a wide angle lens. Always use an oversized reflector in any case The word Luminescence Intensity was used in reference to this exercise its definition “ is emission of light by a substance not resulting from heat” and the term “The candela per square metre (cd/m2) – is the derived SI unit of luminance. The unit is based on the candela, the SI unit of luminous intensity, and the square metre, the SI unit of area. Nit (nt) is a deprecated non-SI name also used for this unit (1 nit = 1 cd/m2)- As a measure of light emitted per unit area, this unit is frequently used to specify the brightness of a display device. Most consumer desktop liquid crystal displays have luminances of 200 to 300 cd/m2;[2] the sRGB spec for monitors targets 80 cd/m2.[3] Typically, calibrated monitors should have a brightness of 120 cd/m2.” use an oversized reflector
moving the light closer does not work
MAMIYA MEDIUM format camera
3D metal objects turn the light up
use an oversized reflector
moving the light closer does not work
3D metal objects turn the light up
To work out the reflection have a look in the lense of the camera to see where the reflection is, then that’s where you place your lights. Get some white gloves for handling metallics so as not to get fingerprints over the object. Set up the light under and behind the scene, using mono blocks. Use 4 wooden blocks with glass on top and a light overhead. Put a polariser on the camera to polarise the glass sheet. 30-40 degrees is the maximum point for polarisation. Turning the light down under the box produced a better result. Putting foam to the side of the object to get more angle into the subject. If you want a horizon line in your shot get down low.
moving the light closer does not work
use an oversized reflector
3D metal objects turn the light up
Ways of producing diffuse lighting include: • using diffusing material; translucent cloth or plastic between the light and the subject • using indirect lighting; reflecting or bouncing light from a large white matt surface such as a ceiling or a studio "flat" • using "tent" lighting; surrounding the subject with a translucent tent which is lit from the outside with broad light sources
use an oversized reflector
The quality of the illumination is the reflector size in relation to the size of the subject. This factor influences the rendition of shadows and highlights as well as all subject texture.
moving the light closer does not work
3D metal objects turn the light up
Because the edge of the box is curved it catches the room reflection which is the black line in the top of the box
DIFFUSE LIGHTING: This lighting produces little or no shadows with very soft edges. It is the equivalent is an overcast day. It is produced by light sources in studio by • use a large frosted lamp • use a large reflector in comparison to the size of the subject • use a reflector with a matt finish • are close to the subject
use an oversized reflector
moving the light closer does not work
The black line in the rop front of the box reflecting from the black ceiling.
CURVED REFLECTIVE SURFACES A curved reflective surface will reflect nearly all of its surroundings. This means that subjects such as stainless steel cookware, cutlery (particularly spoons), tap fittings and many domestic and commercial utensils, will reflect the camera, the stand, the photographer, the lights and whatever else is in the studio
White card placed under the tent to get a white balance reading
Final photos Tent Lighting:
CURVED REFLECTIVE SURFACES
Final photos which were taken under the beauty dish after a grey card reading and some white reflective paper held inside the dish to add more white to the clock face. Tent Lighting:
GLASSWARE: BRIGHT FIELD AND DARK FIELD
Final photos were taken with black card underneath and behind the object with the glass sitting on top of glass mounted on bricks. Styrene foam was used on each side to bring in highlights and block unwanted light.
black card behind the object
• Bright Field • Dark Field
Final photos were taken with black card underneath and behind the object with the glass sitting on top of glass mounted on bricks. Styrene foam was used on each side to bring in highlights and block unwanted light.
black card behind the object
GLASSWARE AND LIQUIDS move the camera closer to the subject + change to a shorter focal length lens To apply lighting techniques commonly used to photograph glassware, in particular, those used to light liquids in glassware. INTRODUCTION: While a simple bright field or dark field shot of glass subject may be all that is required, there are many situations where glassware needs to be photographed with some liquid or another in it. It may be that the idea is to enhance the appearance of a piece by filling or part filling it; it may be that the client wants to see sparkle of champagne, the richness of a wine or the appeal of an icy cold drink. In these instances, the liquid maybe shown being poured or shown as static. In other circumstances, it may be necessary to shoot full bottles of wines or perfumes; procedures for dealing with labels and controlled reflections will be covered in the next section. STILL LIQUIDS IN GLASS: A transparent liquid in a glass acts like a lens, focusing a greater area of background than an empty glass. Increasing the size of the background or moving the subject closer to the background, will regain the required extra area, but at the expense of good edge definition. A better alternative is to move the camera closer to the subject. If the camera
image is now too large, change to a shorter focal length lens.
Shooting pale coloured liquids against light backgrounds usually needs only this relatively minor change in camera position and / or focal length. Shooting pale coloured liquids against dark backgrounds requires different treatment since the pale liquid will pick up the darker tone of the background. Sparkling champagne made to look like stout will rarely impress a client! One solution to this problem is to use a separately lit light toned supplementary background, placed between the glass and the background, and cut to the same shape as the glass. For complex shapes, place a spot light in the camera position, a card between the glass and the background, and simply trace the shape as projected on the card. POURING LIQUIDS: A photograph of a glass with liquid being poured into it offers a range of possibilities for increasing the impact of a shot. Given that the glass and the liquid compliment each other, in other words you are not trying to champagne being poured into a whisky tumbler, then the way the liquid flows and forms patterns, the way bubbles form under and on the surface, and even the pattern made by splashes on the surface can create an extra dimension of texture, mood and character. There are many different ways of capturing a liquid being poured into a glass. Short duration flash gives a frozen almost sculptured effect; normal duration studio flash gives a mostly frozen effect with some blurring of movement; longer shutter speeds under tungsten illumination give a smooth blurred effect with the degree of blurring depending on the actual shutter speed. Each variation in capturing movement will have a different impact. In terms of how this movement is rendered, the purpose of the photograph and the nature of the subject will determine which approach is best. The purpose of the photograph will also determine how much of the bottle, how much, if any, of the hand holding it, and what props, if any, need to be included. If only the neck of the bottle needs to be shown, one approach is to cut the base off a suitable bottle and the clamp it in position over the glass.
GLASSWARE: BRIGHT FIELD AND DARK FIELD
Light field was taken with the white soft box behind the object which was placed atop glass, and surrounded with white sides to block light
Glassware and liquids
Glassware and liquids sprayed glass with water
white card below to white balance
tungsten lighting no flash white balanced
The glassware was sprayed with a bottle of water 1st. We added water with food colouring and some liquid soap for the effect. No reflections were caught in the glass, because it was suspended quite high on a piece of glass with blocks underneath it. We used the RZ67 on 1/4 power. Tracing paper was put over the softbox behind the glass because we were seeing wrinkles in the fabric behind the glass, this bought the power down by a 1 stop. Dont forget to use a polariser on your lense and a hood to stop flare. you can use fake crushed ice and ice blocks. Glycerin is good to make things look frosted. Spray bottles of beer and put them in the freezer, then bring them out just before photographing. If you are shooting on a black background put white tracing paper behind your bottle, so that it reflects and acts as a diffuser.
Soft box behind the glass with black panels on either side to get the black rim on the glass
glassware surface effects & labels
glassware surface effects & labels turn the light up
white soft box with tracing paper over it. Black paper behind the bottle
final shot taken at f22
use an oversized reflector
white tracing paper behind the bottle
glassware surface effects & labels turn the light up
white soft box with tracing paper over it. Black paper behind the bottle
to obscure the edge of the stage get down lower so the glass edge of the stage blends into the background. Look slightly up through the rim of the glass itself because we tend to look down on things when we’re photographing so try to photograph as if you are holding the glass up to our eyes. Make sure to put a glass tage on to your table so that you lose the reflection of the table. With labels use a soft box. Black behind the bottle stops reflection. Put tracing paper on the back of the bottle. If it has a shiny metal top bring down and oversize reflector from above to fill the family of angles. Do a spot reading with your meter attached to flash sync attached to the camera. Because we couldn’t get the reflection in the lid we angled the camera downwards we put black under the glass and behind it. We allowed 2/3 stop for bellows extn. We used 1.5 light on the pro photo metering was at f90 spot reading reflected reading, then you need to go up 3 stops f90-f64-f45-f32-f22 meter the white part of the softbox.
white soft box with tracing paper over it. Black paper behind the bottle
bring down an oversize reflector from above
use an oversized reflector
Coin
Soft box behind the glass with black panels on either side to get the black rim on the glass
Coin
Soft box behind the glass with black panels on either side to get the black rim on the glass
Coin
Bright field coin set amongst the two sheets of diffuse paper.
Soft box behind the glass with black panels on either side to get the black rim on the glass
Transillumination
Crystals lit from underneath, one bright field the other dark field
Transillumination
Crystals lit from underneath, one bright field the other dark field
metal objects turn the light up
Metal on glass with dark blue fabric under the glass and lit from behind with diffusion material
moving the light closer does not work
use an oversized reflector
metal objects turn the light up
use an oversized reflector
The one beside looked clear, but you couldn’t get the lower edge of the masher to stand out from the fabric.
Trying to get the lower edge of the silver masher to stand out from the fabric involved putting a piece of white foam opposite to shine in the metal to get a top and bottom edge.
Unfortunately right hand side is showing a red reflection moving the light closer does not work
4 different settings on the flash unit
sidelight flash
Sun and full power flash
No flash
Portable Flash - Guide numbers can be used to compare output of portable flash and to calculate distances and settings for using portable flash as fill in bright sunlight. Mainly designed for on-camera location use.
The guide number is a product of the f/number and the flash to subject distance, quoted for 100 ISO either in meters or feet.
A higher guide number indicates a more powerful flash. GN = distance x fnumber f-number = GN / distance distance = guide number /f-stop
Sun and half power flash
Sun and quarter power flash
Directional lighting produces shadows with relatively hard edges. The studio equivalent of bright or hazy bright sunlight. It is produced by light sources such as • use a small lamp (e.g. a small tungsten halogen globe) • use a small reflector in comparison to the size of the subject • use a highly polished focused reflector • are distant from the subject
4 different settings on the flash unit
backlit flash f-number = GN / distance
No flash
Sun and full power flash
Guide numbers are usually given for a setting of ISO 100. If you increase the ISO setting, the camera needs less light for a good exposure so the range of the flash increases. Doubling the ISO setting, say from 100 to 200 increases the guide number by a factor of 1.4x; quadrupling the ISO, say from 100 to 400, doubles the guide number. Guide number does not depend on the focal length of the lens, however some flashes have the capability to zoom with the camera, so the light beam is narrower and the guide number is increased
Guide Numbers table ISO Factor 100 1 200 1.44 400 2.07 800 2.99 1600 4.30 3200 6.19
Sun and half power flash
Sun and quarter power flash
Directional lighting produces shadows with relatively hard edges. The studio equivalent of bright or hazy bright sunlight. It is produced by light sources such as • use a small lamp (e.g. a small tungsten halogen globe) • use a small reflector in comparison to the size of the subject • use a highly polished focused reflector • are distant from the subject
Capture 1 exercise – digital back
This exercise was about using Capture1 and the digital back.
13/3/12
Capture 1 exercise – digital back
13/3/12
Session>Camera>Save in DDrive>to drag over later Everything goes in to the Capture1 folder automatically. Shoot in Capture1 and process into your DDrive folder. Drop down to Data Drive to save Name everything the same ICC profile>phase1>h20>product flash>defaults Camera control change after picture Iso 100 Set dot to white on camera (relates to the format of the chip
Steps 1. Focus>white button>release blue lever, it’ll go across 2. Close lense before you cock shutter 3. Put cable in the lense in the C slot. Get the cable with the button on the lead. 4. On the photo get the colour picker on the photo and click set 5. Process>make sure to direct to the output folder 6. Processing recipe>type in name of file that you’ve named it 7. Set the scale to 100% - save as DNG 120 lens is standard lens – 65 lens you can go close but you get distortion – 210 lens is your telephoto lens.
Monoblock Studio Flash used with a broader dish shaped reflector - which gives a wide angle beam of 100 to 120 degrees. Monoblock Studio Flash
Lit from underneath the perspex table, using tethered shooting and vortex jar, with a monoblock. Monoblock & floor pack systems are modular with a wide range of interchangeable reflectors or light shapers, which can change the beam angle from narrow to broad. Monoblock studio flash self contained mains powered units with moderate output often used for portraiture, fashion, and with relatively small studio sets. Monoblock systems typically have power ratings from 200 to 1,500 joules. Studio Flash Are rated by the total amount of power in joules (J) One joule is equivalent to one watt-second Studio flash – power in Joules – usually from 200 – 1,500 (Monoblocks), 1,000 – 10,000 (Floor packs) Soft light – light shaped with: soft boxes, beauty dishes, and snoots
A cheap halogen inspection light or flash can be shined through some tracing paper hanging between the subject and the lamp, the light should be pointing directly at the camera lens, softened by the tracing paper, this is called backlighting and uses only one lamp and is paramount to be able to photograph liquid pouring. The aim is to arrive at an exposure of around 1200th of a second for stopping movement, achieved by increasing the iso rate on the camera and using a f stop of around f4. This can only be arrived at by experimentation , to arrive at the shutter speed required and to achieve stopping movement, while using a low as possible iso ( refer to my lesson “understanding iso” and an f stop setting that will give enough depth of field for the particular image. (lesson “aperture”). The white balance must be set to the type of light being used, This can be done by using the tracing paper as if it is a white card.
To be continued .......