Townscape Heritage Initiative Foreword
In 2012 Carrickfergus Council staff with support from the community, businesses and local political representatives embarked on a journey to support the restoration of our town; Carrickfergus.
Well known for its iconic Norman Castle the town had become a satellite of Belfast and local town centre businesses were struggling, victim to large out of town shopping centres and more recently online retail competition.
Carrickfergus is much more than a castle and with the support of The National Lottery Heritage Fund, the local Council, statutory agencies and its community, we began a journey to not only restore historic buildings but learn more about the history of our town. The work funded during a period of 8 years included the restoration of 10 buildings, the delivery of an education project and presented an opportunity to support several significant archaeology research projects which provided new information about the development of Carrickfergus and its growth dating back to the 1600’s.
The delivery of the project was during a time of immense challenges, the merging of Carrickfergus Borough Council with the newly created Mid and East Antrim Borough Council, delivery throughout the Covid pandemic and addressing the impact of the cost-of-living crisis which saw construction costs dramatically rise.
Tribute must be given to the funding agencies, especially The National Lottery Heritage Fund and the Council who supported the scheme, professionals involved in the development and delivery of the project and the owners of the properties whom we worked alongside for their support, commitment and belief in the scheme.
This booklet illustrates the journey, our achievements and some of the learning, seeking to support future investment, preservation, and the exploration of our town; Carrickfergus.
The THI Board.
Townscape Heritage Initiative Introduction
Carrickfergus is famed for its Castle and coastal setting and was once the capital of Anglo-Norman Ulster. Laid out to a 12th Century plan it has been the focal point of some of the most important events impacting on the history of the Province of Ulster.
While the town has evolved over successive centuries, several historic landmarks including the Castle, St Nicholas’ Church and sections of the defensive stone town walls (completed in 1615) remain to this day. However, the impact of 20th century is particularly noticeable, when industrial development, house building, and road infrastructure radically altered the character of the medieval town.
Although its core is medieval in origin, the appearance of the town is now predominately of late 18th to mid-19th century character. Buildings are typically domestically scaled terraces of two to three storeys over ground floor shops, in keeping with the essential characteristics of a Georgian town of this period.
The aim of the Townscape Heritage Initiative, known as the “THI scheme” was to restore pride in these buildings once again, through their restoration and regeneration. To support a welcoming historic environment where locals and visitors alike could find out more about the fascinating history of this special town and the stories of the people and buildings behind it.
In 2012 Carrickfergus Borough Council began a two stage application process engaging with The National Lottery Heritage Fund, local property owners and statutory agencies. In October 2015 the newly created Mid and East Antrim Borough Council was successfully awarded £1,689,200 by The National Lottery Heritage Fund. The Council would provide extra match-funding of initially £555,000 supporting project running costs and creating what was known as a common fund supporting the refurbishment costs of a pre-agreed schedule of eligible and prioritised buildings to be match-funded by the property owners.
The scheme supported the restoration of specific buildings inside the town’s historic walls in a zone known as the Conservation Area. Scheme delivery involved property owners applying for capital grants to support internal and external building restoration. Grants were targeted at a range of buildings with particular emphasis placed on buildings which were derelict, listed or had historic merit.
The delivery of the scheme saw the creation of a Board to support the governance of the THI scheme consisting of locally elected politicians from Mid and East Antrim Borough Council, Social Partners from the community and business sectors and Council Officers. A range of advisors were also invited to THI Board meetings including representatives from the Department for Communities - Historic Environment Division, Northern Ireland Housing Executive (NIHE) and Urban Regeneration.
The programme was promoted to local property owners and several meetings were facilitated to provide information about the programme supported by the Council’s Communications Department.
Levels of grant offered to property owners varied between 58%-82% of eligible costs with the properties in a state of dereliction qualifying for the highest levels of support.
The THI scheme was administered by the Mid and East Antrim Borough Council and supported a process which encouraged owners of buildings situated in the Conservation Area to explore the potential of their properties and apply for a capital grant to support the costs of restoration. During a period of 5 years, 10 building restoration schemes were supported.
During the delivery of the scheme the Covid pandemic forced building work to stop and unexpected delays resulted in the projects extension and additional funding with the final grant from The National Lottery Heritage Fund rising to £1,788.700, matched by Mid and East
Antrim Borough Council contributing £654.576 and an additional £140,000 was awarded by the Northern Ireland Housing Executive through their “Heritage in Housing” programme to support the creation of over the shop residences. The THI programme included an education programme, led by a part-time Education Officer who developed a range of classes, publications, coordinated seminars, and workshops working with local groups and schools to promote awareness of the extraordinary heritage of Carrickfergus.
The THI project was completed in 2024.
THI Restored Building at 6-8 High Street ‘Dobbins Inn’
Photography by Gary McCabe
A Partnership Approach
The Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative (THI) adopted a partnership approach seeking to gather the resources, experience, and knowledge from a range of agencies and stakeholders to support the successful delivery of the scheme.
The THI Board were advised by Alastair Coey Architects, a company who specialises in conservation architecture, the restoration of historic buildings and built heritage. The project was administered by a Project Manager reporting to the THI Board which met on a regular basis. The THI Board supported the implementation of the scheme through considering applications, reviewing reports and agreeing the allocation of the capital grants. It also supported the administration of the scheme and the delivery of the education programme.
National Lottery Heritage Fund
For the last 30 years, the Heritage Fund has invested in heritage, making better places for communities to live, work and visit. Celebrating and preserving our history, architecture, landscape and culture plays a vital role in connecting communities and supporting economic regeneration.
Our Townscape Heritage Initiative investment is contributing to the long-term vision for Carrickfergus so that it’s remarkable heritage is valued, cared for and sustained for everyone. Congratulations to the team for all they have achieved.
Dr Paul Mullan, Director, Northern Ireland at The National Lottery Heritage Fund
Project Achievements
The Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative supported by The National Lottery Heritage Fund, Mid and East Antrim Borough Council and Northern Ireland Housing Executive supported the following achievements:
• Attracted a £5 million investment in preserving the historic fabric of Carrickfergus for future generations.
• 10 buildings restored to the highest conservation standards supporting the development of traditional building skills and crafts.
• 2 publications produced and distributed.
• The delivery of an education programme engaging with 4,000 people through the delivery of 30 events and activities.
• 3 archaeological based research studies published.
• 2 derelict buildings restored.
• 12 residential properties brought back into use.
• 1 historic exhibition space created, and
• Instrumental in the £42 million Belfast Region City Deal project focusing on the heritage led regeneration of Carrickfergus 2024-2032.
The Conservation Area
Carrickfergus, because of it’s geographic setting and historic past, has been defined as a Conservation Area. This includes the town centre within the town wall, an imposing Castle, Anglo-Norman Church and a variety of examples of historic buildings. To support regeneration and capitalise on these assets there are statutory policies in place to ensure that developers and owners take steps to maintain and develop their properties in ways which support the history of the town and compliment existing streetscapes.
The THI programme provided funding to support the restoration and preservation of buildings within the Conservation Area which included the removal of metal shutters, PVC double glazing and PVC guttering.
Restoration of each of the 10 projects has seen the refurbishment of sash windows, roof repairs and replacement using Bangor Blue slates. Security shutters have been hidden behind hand carved hardwood shop fronts with designs based on a review of historic pictures. Within the scheme several chimneys were reinstated to restore the original frontal elevation of the buildings and care was taken to restore rather than replace decayed timbers and masonry. Some rooms and walls that were odd shapes were retained to support the historic character of the buildings. Walls have been repaired using Belfast brick and lime render used to plaster walls. During the THI programme many of the companies involved encouraged their staff to learn traditional skills and crafts.
Historic buildings that dominate and support the essence of the THI scheme are the Castle, St Nicholas’ Parish Church and the Carrickfergus Town Hall.
© Crown copyright and database rights NIMA CS&LA777 (2023)
The Castle
The Castle is strategically sited on a rocky promontory to command Belfast Lough. The town of Carrickfergus is inextricably linked with its Castle. Begun by John de Courcy soon after his 1177 invasion of Ulster, the Castle played an important military role until 1928. Its long history includes sieges by King John in 1210 and Edward Bruce in 1315, its capture by Schomberg for William III in 1689, and capture by the French under Thurot in 1760. The Castle was used by the army until 1928, and in the Second World War 1939–1945 it housed air-raid shelters.
The earliest phase of the Castle is the polygonal inner ward on the tip of the rock, begun between 1177 and 1181, and built in one programme with the keep (or Great Tower). The 4-storey keep remains the most prominent part of the Castle complex and although built primarily for defence was also the principal residence of the Lord and his family. A visit will provide the opportunity to see how the Great Hall at the top of the Great Tower has been transformed by the new roof which has greatly improved the visitor’s experience.
The middle ward was added between 1217 and 1222; it had a postern gate to the sea and originally had four
defensive towers, but only the east sea tower remains today. The outer ward and gatehouse were probably built between 1226 and 1242, taking in the full extent of the rocky promontory. The gatehouse primarily consists of two towers; the western tower was traditionally used by the constable whereas the eastern tower was used as accommodation and storage for the garrison with a chapel at third floor level. The windlass for the portcullis was housed in the small room between the two towers. Later changes were mainly concerned with provision for guns and the Castle’s use as an ordnance depot. Cannons from the 17th to 19th centuries are on show and the keep houses historical and other displays. There is a sensory room on the ground floor of the keep enabling neurodiverse visitors to enjoy the Castle more fully. The Castle is owned and managed by the Department for Communities.
Carrickfergus Castle, contact: 028 9335 1273 or email carrickfergus.castle@communities-ni.gov.uk
Rory McNeary, Historic Environment Division Department for Communities
St Nicholas’ Parish Church
The roots of St Nicholas’ Parish Church date back prior to its construction by John de Courcy who founded Carrickfergus in 1182.
The chancel was originally built by Robert la Mercer in 1305-1306 and the original roof was considerably lower. The current floor is approximately 1m lower than the original, due to consequent reconstructions. The original body of the Church was much wider. The massive Norman arches opened out on both sides of the nave revealing side aisles. These are believed to have housed side chapels two in the south and two in the north. The Church was reconstructed by Thomas Paps for Sir Arthur Chichester in 1614. The Norman pillars where hidden within the present walls and did not come to light again until 1907 when they were uncovered during restoration.
The baptistry found at the back of the nave was originally constructed in 1614 as the porch of the Church. The porch of the Church was an extremely important feature because much civic business was transacted there. Coroner’s courts were held in it and public deeds and covenants were signed there. Long deep cuts to the cornerstones are believed to have been made by soldiers as they sharpened their halberds.
In the past the Church has benefitted greatly from the patronage of Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord Deputy of Ireland and Governor of Carrickfergus. He was the first Lord Baron of Belfast and together with his close family are interned in the vault. This was closed to the public until 1830.
The Donegal aisle houses an elaborate Jacobean monument in marble and alabaster to Sir Arthur and his wife Lady Lettice. Between them lies their only child who died in infancy. Below is a monument to his brother Sir John Chichester who was ambushed and killed in the nearby village of Glynn in 1597.
Many visitors will be surprised by the crooked aisle. This skew has been immortalised by the poet Louis MacNeice in his poem ‘Carrickfergus’. His father John Frederick MacNeice, was rector of the Church where Louis grew up, submerged in the history and the architecture of this wonderful building.
The Church is adorned with many interesting stained glass windows and includes a small Lepers’ window where people from the nearby hospital could come and observe the service. The Church even has a stained glass window which depicts St Nicholas, AKA Santa, on a sleigh.
Rev Dr Christopher St John (Rector St Nicholas’ Parish Church, Carrickfergus)
Carrickfergus Museum and Civic Centre
Alongside Carrickfergus Castle and St Nicholas’ Church, the Carrickfergus Museum & Civic Centre and Town Hall complex is one of the most significant places in the town, having been in continuous use for over 800 years.
In the medieval period, it was common for wealthy landholders to construct ecclesiastical buildings such as churches, convents, and monasteries. This was because secular and church power were closely entwined, and because wealthy individuals wished to show their piety and secure their place in the afterlife. To this end, Hugh De Lacy, the first Earl of Ulster, established a Franciscan Friary and graveyard (the present-day Town Hall and courtyard) on this site. A map of 1560 shows that the Friary had several buildings, including a water mill. By this time the heyday of the monastery was at an end and was dissolved soon after during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, begun by Henry VIII. In the 1970s, archaeological excavations uncovered 68 skeletons from the late medieval cemetery associated with it.
The site was then chosen by Sir Arthur Chichester, Governor of Carrickfergus, (later Lord Deputy of Ireland) to be the location of his grand new mansion, Barbican Gatehouse and Gardens, known as Joymount. Completed by 1618, an English traveller described it as ‘a prince’s palace’ with 365 windows, 52 doors, and 12 chimney breasts. Despite being a masterpiece of Jacobean architecture, the Chichesters had moved out by 1724 and the house was demolished in 1768. One of the Barbican gatehouse towers survives today, and that, together with a section of red brick wall leading to Shaftesbury Park, is all that is left of Chichester’s great ‘palace’.
The new County Antrim Courthouse (the present Town Hall) and jail was built in its place and opened in 1779. The jail was enclosed by a 6m high rubble-stone wall that still exists to this day. Antrim Street, where this building stood, was once known locally as ‘Drop View Terrace’ –because this was where public hangings took place.
When Crumlin Road Jail was opened in Belfast in 1850, the site was vacated and later acquired by the Antrim Artillery Militia, who built the upstanding Victorian, redbrick buildings that make up the present-day Museum and Civic Centre. You can still see the barred windows from the ordnance store if you look up inside.
The Courthouse, meanwhile, was adapted as the Town Hall and opened in 1935. The Town Hall was used to support civic activity including the distribution of gas masks during the War.
Between 1992 and 2002 the present Civic Centre and Museum was the home of the ‘Knight Ride’, a mono-rail ride high up in the glasshouse building that took visitors through 800 years of Carrickfergus’ history. Following this, Carrickfergus Museum was opened in 2004, with permanent and temporary exhibition galleries, in a shared space that incorporates Mid and East Antrim Borough Council facilities, a café, an education room and community archive.
Shirin Murphy Collections Access Officer, Mid and East Antrim Borough Council
The Role of Conservation Architecture
The Carrickfergus THI scheme was supported by conservation architects who have the specific experience, knowledge, and skills to support the restoration and preservation of historical buildings. The 10 schemes supported by the THI have not been without their challenges as most of the historic buildings have been reconfigured to support their sustainable use whilst retaining as much of their historic fabric as possible. This has included the retention of ancient timbers and supporting oddities such as strange room shapes, walls that are not totally plumb and the preservation of historic features. The communication between the builders, architects, engineers, surveyors and conservation specialists was central to the scheme’s success developing solutions to meet current standards whilst being practical and retaining the historic fabric of the structures.
The Carrickfergus THI scheme has allowed some significant architectural improvements to be made to the scheme properties, most significantly the reversal of unsympathetic modifications and the reinstatement of historic details. Carrickfergus is a town of immense character and importance, but it has suffered a relentless erosion of its architectural quality. This erosion has happened slowly and in a piecemeal fashion, but its cumulative effect is significant.
The THI scheme is important not only for the instances where it can roll back this erosion, but also for its role in highlighting that such a process is necessary, worthwhile and achievable. The buildings in this scheme stand as real-world examples of what can be achieved, and by doing so provide not only an immediate improvement to the townscape, but also an encouragement for more improvements to come forward.
Completed Capital Projects
Eamon McMullan, Capital Regeneration Manager, Mid and East Antrim Borough Council
Erl Johnston, Alastair Coey Architects
Aerial view of the rear of 10 High Street
4 Governor’s Place Kelly’s Coal Offices
Governor’s Place is a prominent location in Carrickfergus directly across the main road from the Castle and is named after the former place of residence of the Governor’s of the Carrickfergus Garrison, a position that extant records show existed between 1568 until 1841.
Constructed during the early 20th century (c.19101915), the ‘Kelly’s’ building at 4 Governor’s Place, was first plotted on the sixth edition OS map of 1920 and historic evidence shows that the current building replaced a previous single-storey structure. Around 1915, Charles Legg, a prominent local coal merchant and shipbuilder first occupied the building.
From 1920 the building operated as a coal office and depot for the expanding Belfast based coal merchants, John Kelly Ltd, which sometime afterwards had its distinctive K logo decal inserted on the plasterwork at the front façade.
In more recent decades with the redevelopment of the harbour area from industrial to recreational use, the coal business ceased, and the historic coal yard to the rear of Kelly’s along with a distinctive ‘Belfast Truss’ roof fell into disrepair. In recognition of its historical significance the coal yard has been recreated at the Ulster Folk Museum at Cultra. The renovation of the building to its original state included the reconstruction of the roof and the rebuilding of its block chimneys. Decorative architectural features particularly at the front of the building were reinstated which included the unique metal casement windows.
Inside the building a modern retail space was created including the internal remodelling of the space. This included the creation of additional floor-space incorporating the original carriage arch which had been previously used by drovers to access the rear coal yard.
Currently the building hosts the Carrickfergus Maritime Exhibition on its first floor and is a retail shop.
Total Project Investment £295,754
Warrant Officer’s House and Guard Room
Constructed around 1900, the Warrant Officer’s House and Guard Room are surviving buildings which formed part of the Antrim Artillery Barracks and Ordnance Store Site off Antrim Street. The basalt rubblestone wall behind the buildings are part of an earlier perimeter wall enclosing the former County Antrim jail which had previously been located on the site.
The Antrim Artillery Militia was initially based at the Castle but took over the old courthouse (now Town Hall) and jail in 1856. By the end of the century, they had demolished the old jail building and then erected their own buildings. The Militia were a part of the fabric of Carrickfergus for over sixty years, from its formation in 1854 until demobilisation in 1919. This prestigious unit was responsible for the defence of Belfast Lough, first at the Castle and later, during the First World War at Kilroot Fort.
The restoration work included the repointing of brick and stonework, repairs to the roof using reclaimed Bangor Blue slates, sash windows were repaired to their original condition and lime render covered the walls encouraging the use of traditional skills from over 100 years ago.
Visitors can now see the building recreated to show how these holding cells for disobedient soldiers looked at the turn of the last century and learn about the story of those who were based there. An exhibition also explores 800 years of history on this significant site in the town.
Total Project Investment £284,448
6-8 High Street Dobbins Inn
The Dobbins Inn Hotel is recognised to be one of the important buildings in this programme and has been listed by the Historic Environment Division (HED) in the Department for Communities as Grade B2 since 1986.
Firstly, work took place to remove the existing surface fabric. This exposed the building structure to enable joint inspections with the HED to ascertain an accurate historical record of the construction and confirm the various uses throughout its lifetime. That confirmed how much remained of the 15-16th Century tower house, how it was extended or altered up to the 20th Century. These Inspections concluded with Reports from both the Client’s representatives and the Education Officer, Carrickfergus THI. This inspection process was a prerequisite to making decisions as to how the building should be refurbished to accommodate the present use and enhance the historic character of both the building and the commercial Town Centre.
The property at 6-8 High Street has a rich and varied history. It is now generally accepted that No. 8 was the former site of a tower-house as shown on the Map of Carrickfergus in 1562. However, No.6 would appear to have been developed in conjunction with the shop premises that forms the corner site High Street-North Street, as the residence where the shop manager lived.
Research undertaken between the property owners and Historic Environment Division and part-funded by the Carrickfergus THI has proved an important milestone. This research involved the first physical investigation which revealed the extent of the former tower-house
structure at No.8 High Street. Carbon dating of wood samples taken were analysed and found to date no later than the 1540’s. This would concur with the depiction of Lythe’s map of 1567 and building occupied by a Stephen Dobbin.
The findings made from the investigation of the structural condition and the construction alterations from the many fenestration changes involved was essential in making the decision as to how to reinstate. For example, nobody expected to find the brickwork above 2nd floor level and this has opened a completely new phase to the story. The corner stones in the Dobbins front wall are believed to be from the same source as key stones used in the Carrickfergus Castle. This creates an interesting link between the buildings.
During this study a careful examination has been made of the THI criteria. A detailed search of Academic Studies of tower-house construction has been completed together with a review of the history of Carrickfergus, in order to set in context, the conflicting factors created by the long and diverse past that the subject building has gone through, and the need to present a viable commercial solution that will be acceptable to the public who have to be attracted to the premises.
The tower-house was originally the home of Stephen Dobbin. It is believed that stables were added during the 1700s and it later became a bakery. This may be when the large chimney breasts were built into the walls. In 1861 it became the regional headquarters of the PoliceRoyal Irish Constabulary (RIC). In 1950, with the layout somewhat similar as it is today, became the Dobbins Hotel registered with the AA and RAC.
The first edition Ordnance Survey (OS) map of 1832 depicts a pair of buildings on site, both of which are L-shaped on plan and of similar orientation to the current structures, except for the modern extension to the rear elevation. In 1840, the OS memoirs noted that ‘one of the original houses, shown in the plan as Dobbins, is still in perfect preservation. It is on the east side of the street and in line with the other houses, from which it is distinguished merely by two small square turrets, one at each angle in front’. Photographic evidence shows the building exterior of No.8 had been altered by the late 19th century and the turrets removed.
The National Lottery Heritage Fund supported an extensive restoration of the buildings to sensitively interpret the medieval origins of No.8 High Street in a way that adds value to the building which is a hotel and hospitality business operating as Dobbins Inn. This included the application of a harl render as opposed to modern sand and cement and re-roofing using natural Welsh slate.
The windows at No.8 are in a medieval style whilst the windows at No.6 High Street were a Georgian style. Most noticeable is the recreation of crenellations (Battlements) at No.8. In the reception area the wall is exposed and shows the timber beam that was tested. Internally the hotel has period style decor with 14, 3-star rooms with ensuite facilities, a popular bar, restaurant, and function room. Additional information is available at: www.dobbins.co.uk
Samuel Wilson, Project Consultant, Dobbins Inn
Total Project Investment £252,736
10 High Street
The current building at 10 High Street consists of the entrance to 2 newly created upper floor flats, a retail premises and a small flat called the Inglenook which occupies the old archway, the traditional entry to the rear of the premises.
Since 1950’s the building had grown to the rear to fill the entire footprint of the site and all of this was listed grade B2 by the Department for Communities, Historic Environment Division in late 2020 on account of its historical interest.
An extract from the list description states: “Although 10 High Street presents as an archetypal 19th century terrace, the historical assessment and investigations that have been carried out indicate the building, as an entity, is much older. Elements of the building are believed to
be as early as the sixteenth century with strong evidence that the surviving staircase dates from the 17th century. The building is therefore of considerable archaeological and historical interest.”
The restoration of the building work included the replacement of inappropriate uPVC windows with traditionally detailed timber sliding-sash windows and contemporary shopfronts replaced with authentic shopfronts utilising information from historic photographs. Two lost chimneys have been reinstated to a traditional pattern and located over existing chimney breasts. Roofs to the rear of the property, which were prohibiting safe access for maintenance to the more historic part of the building have been simplified to ensure the building can be safely maintained going forward and also to provide roof garden space for the apartments.
Other parts of the project involved replacing cementitious plasters with lime renders to allow the building to breathe and avoid problems with dampness in old historic walls. Old lathe and plaster ceilings and the few cornices remaining were preserved, and floorboards were reused as far as possible. One quirky outcome of the project is that twists in the old oak frame were allowed to remain and so some of the upper floor’s slope from one room side to the other and this gives the residents a sense of the buildings structure, age and character. Similarly, some stonework and timber beams have been left exposed within the interior to evidence the buildings past. Many layers of paint on the historic staircase have been stripped back by a paint conservator, Ruth Bothwell to expose the many layers of history within this one and perhaps most unique feature of
the building. Ruth has also conserved a piece of historic wallpaper found on the second floor which dates back to the late 19th century.
Behind 10 High Street’s traditional Victorian style frontage, as work progressed the contractors and the professional team uncovered a considerably older building than its street front would suggest, with evidence pointing to a late medieval structure dating back to the 1600s. Of particular significance is the presence of a rear stair tower containing part of a 17th century (possibly Jacobean) staircase as mentioned above, leading from the first to the second floors. Experts on historic buildings from the Historical Environmental Division - Department for Communities believe this staircase to be unique within an urban setting in Northern Ireland and perhaps within the entire island.
Also, parts of an oak frame were discovered at first floor, second floor and roof levels. These were dated through a process of Dendro - chronology by a leading authority in this field, David Brown of Queens University, Belfast. This dated the timbers within this oak frame and other timber beams supporting walls around the historic stair as having felling dates as far back as 1542 but mostly from the early 1600’s. At that time felled oak tended to be worked and used relatively quickly after felling so this points to them being also used in the construction of the building in the 1600’s.
This oak frame was effectively a kit of parts made elsewhere, or on the ground, disassembled and then put back together again. Joints between different timber beams and joists bear carpenter marks to ensure the correct pieces were fitted in the right place. Interestingly some of these junctions also unveil that at some point the building was a 2.5 storey building and then had the roof raised to provide a full 3 storey structure. It is believed this happened in the late 1600s; early 1700s. Further clues pointing to this scenario are found in brickwork patterns which were exposed during the build where the building connects with the Dobbins on one side and No.12 High Street on the other. Thicker than usual walls like those found in the Dobbins Hotel point to parts of this structure being of a similar period.
Ciara McManus, of Farrimond McManus, Project Archaeologist has been on site, exploring all of the above. She also examined two test pits carried out during the works to try to piece together the clues, fragments of animal bone and a couple of shards of pottery. The pottery has been identified as being locally made and to date from the 16th to 17th Century. Ciara
has also prepared a full report on the archaeology of the building after carrying out a Level 4 Historic Building survey, (an analytical report appropriate for buildings of special importance).
Residents have now moved into the apartments, and one has commented that they: “Couldn’t have asked for better or a nicer home”.
Dr Paul Mullan, Director, Northern Ireland at The National Lottery Heritage Fund said: “We are delighted to see this rare survival of Carrickfergus’ built heritage being conserved and brought into sustainable use for future generations.“
Stephen Salley, 10 High Street
Senior Architect, HBK Architects
Total Project Investment £704,145
& 5 Market Place
Market Place is one of the most distinctive areas of the streetscape of Carrickfergus Conservation Area, framing views uphill towards St Nicholas’ Church and looking down towards Belfast Lough. The following article has been written by Mike McNeill the owner of the building.
The refurbishment of the buildings presented many significant challenges to the developer and their contractor Hugh J O’Boyle, none the least the fact that the ground floor tenants comprising an office, Ollies coffee shop and Boots Chemist had to remain in operation throughout the 14-month contract period.
The first steps of the refurbishment involved stripping the internal fabric back to bare structure internally. This gave many insights into how the internal layout may have been back in 1908, when the buildings were joined and used by the YMCA, revealing a brick archway between buildings, windows which had subsequently been covered up and from even earlier times evidence of arched carriageway entrance at the ground floor of
3 Market Place. In addition, an original YMCA enamel sign dating back to the early 20th century was uncovered during this process and this has been donated to the town’s museum.
Following the stripping back of the internal fabric a 3D Matterport survey was carried out to record the internal fabric of the building creating a virtual image of the building (see photo below).
The conservation architect carried out a survey of the roof trusses in the rear of the building and these were estimated to have originated in the 18th century.
Unfortunately, some of the original roof and floor timbers had succumbed to woodworm making them structurally unsound and these had to be replaced –in itself a significant challenge whilst the ground floor shops continued to trade. However as much of the original structure as possible was retained and the 1908 sliding sash windows to the front elevation of the building were refurbished by Hugh J O’Boyle and reinstalled into the building. 3, 3c
Following replacement of the floors/roof timbers, all roofs were recovered with Bangor Blue slates. The craftsmanship displayed by the roofers and the quality of the finished product is second to none and will ensure that the roof of the building lasts well into the next century.
Following removal of the scaffolding, heritage hardwood shopfronts were manufactured and installed into Ollies Coffee Shop and Boots Chemists. In both cases the original external shutters were eliminated and in the case of Ollies a retractable heritage canopy was added to provide shelter at the front of the café to promote outdoor use. In both cases the shop signage was hand painted by a local artist.
Finally, the developer renamed the building ‘Carlton House’ in recognition of its original use, and this can be seen acid etched in the fanlight above the entrance door to the apartments.
The completed project comprised the creation of 5 new apartments on the 1st and 2nd floors (1 x 1 bed and 4 x 2 bed) and these are now fully occupied.
Mike McNeill from developer Scrabo Property reflected that: “Without the financial assistance from the Carrickfergus THI scheme this project simply would not have been viable. The THI support allowed the project to proceed and has ensured that high quality materials have been used throughout. I would like to thank project managers Philippa Martin and Keith Hamilton along with conservation architect Alastair Coey for their support throughout this journey.”
Mike McNeill - Director Scrabo Properties
33 North Street
North Street is the longest north/south street within the old town walls. The building is located at a key focal point for pedestrians heading south towards the main street from the Railway Station and through the North Gate.
It was constructed during the mid 19th century, shown on the Town Plan map of 1884. The building was originally 2 separate buildings, one owned by James Dubourdieu while the neighbouring property to the east was occupied by a Hugh Harpur. Historic photographic (c.1870) evidence shows that a shop owned by James Bell was located on the premises of No.33, before moving to the corner of High Street in the late 19th century.
By the turn of the 20th century the property had been amalgamated, a configuration which remains today.
The premises had during the 20th Century undergone a number of transitions and following a fire had become derelict in 2018.
The building was externally restored to model the shop depicted in the 1920’s photograph of the shop operated by Robert Pollock. The internal structure of the building was redesigned to support the creation of a retail space and a first floor flat with a separate entrance.
The restoration work included the use of traditional materials and skills such as the application of lime rendering, a manufactured hard wood shop front, use of Bangor Blue slates on the roof and cast-iron guttering. A dummy chimney was created to support a more traditional 1900’s appearance.
Total Project Investment £268,433
2 West Street
2 West Street is a Victorian style three storey, rendered terrace building, retaining period sash windows at upper front floors, estimated to date back to circa 1820. It is estimated that the construction of the building at 2 West Street dates to the early 1800’s, possibly earlier. Historical records from the Dublin Penny Journal of 1832 show the presence of thatched cottages along West Street at one time. The records taken from 1891 list the address of 2 West Street as belonging to a Town Commissioner, which would suggest that the property was solely a residential property at this time and not yet established as a retail unit.
The THI supported restoration of 2 West Street, Carrickfergus consisted of a programme of repairs, conservation, and reinstatement of architectural details to the building, complementing its current use as a commercial premises and supporting the development of upper floors currently in poor condition for residential use with the creation of 2 residential flat units.
Architectural features that had been lost have been reinstated including the creation of a brick chimney to replicate examples elsewhere in the Conservation Area. The hardwood shop front was reconstructed with the steel shutter discretely moved to inside the main window with hand painted signage replacing the former plastic metal sign with plastic lettering.
The roof was repaired with traditional slate, steel guttering replacing PVC and inside where historic elements existed, these were repaired and retained including the repair of the hardwood sliding sash windows, the staircase, architraves, cornices, and period doors.
Total Project Investment £292,960
Cheston Street
Cheston Street is one of the original medieval streets of the old town of Carrickfergus. From the time of 12th century when John De Courcy arrived in Carrickfergus and established the medieval settlement, it became the primary thoroughfare from the Castle to St Nicholas’ Church.
Cheston Street appears on maps dating back to the 16th century as being laid out within the mid-16th century town defences, with stone tower-houses, alongside less permanent dwellings. Over the centuries, it has been variously known as Cheston’s Lane, or Street; and Butcher’s Row.
The age and historical importance of Cheston Street is borne out by archaeological excavation finds of Cheston Street from the 1970s. A sandstone window from a tower-house was discovered and is thought to be from the present day location of 16 Cheston Street. This is now on display in Carrickfergus Museum.
The current premises had lain vacant and used as a store for over thirty years and significant work was necessary to reinstate the building’s structure whilst retaining the original brick and timbers.
This included the manufacture of hardwood sash windows and doors and the treatment and reinstatement of original timbers. Due to a lack of foundations the building was under pinned using mini piles with the construction team working closely with the site archaeologist who monitored any excavation work. Excavation work was approval by the Historic Environment Division (HED), obtaining licenses to dig into the foundations of the building. Investigations highlighted that the property was originally single storey, and the floor was laid after 1912.
Additional Support and Complementary Projects
On completion, the building has been restored creating two one-bedroom holiday lets, aimed at the growing tourist market in the Carrickfergus area.
Total Project Investment £251,705
One of the aims of the THI scheme was to attract additional resources which were complementary to the delivery of the schemes aims and objectives. Resources ranged from additional funding to support capital costs, professional assistance, and the development of historical exhibitions.
Heritage in Housing Programme
Administered by the Northern Ireland Housing Executive the programme sought to support the development of new residential spaces in local towns normally over traditional shops working closely with THI schemes throughout Northern Ireland. A total of £140,000 was allocated to the THI scheme during a 3-year period to support the development of 10 flats contained within traditional buildings, whilst adhering to modern regulations and supporting modern living.
Irish Walled Town Network
The Heritage Council of Ireland supported through its Irish Walled Town Network, a grant of €7,000 to create an interpretive space as an extension of the Carrickfergus Museum based in the newly restored Warrant Officers House and Guard Room.
The funding supported the commissioning of specialists to explore the history of the buildings associated with Carrickfergus Town Hall and Civic Centre seeking to develop an interpretive strategy for the site. One of the outcomes was the creation of an exhibition space in the Guard Room and Jail which is now open to the public and managed by the Carrickfergus Museum. The work focused on the military history of the site including exhibitions about the Antrim Artillery founded in 1854 to protect Belfast Lough from French invasion, the Boer War 1900-1901 and the Great War 1914-1918.
Historic Environment Division
Historic Environment Division (HED) were glad to play a part in the Carrickfergus THI, and we took the role of undertaking some, and guiding all, of the survey and excavation work to examine the buildings during their renovations. The project has significantly advanced our knowledge of the town’s past, knowledge that we could not have gained but for the THI. Previous to the initiative it was thought that only fragments of Dobbin’s Tower House survived, possibly only the fireplaces and parts of walls, and that no such other early buildings had survived above ground. However, the THI proved that thinking wrong.
The renovations at Dobbin’s Inn demonstrated that the tower house still survives, largely intact. The stone walls of Dobbin’s Castle survive to three storeys high on the gable ends and two storeys at the front and rear - the front and rear third storey stone walls having been removed in the past and replaced in brick. During the works the front elevation was exposed and created much interest with many people coming to have a look. Unfortunately, the walls had to be rendered to help make the building weatherproof, but the render used was a roughcast harling similar to that which would have covered the walls in the 16th and 17th centuries. Analysis of the tree rings in a timber above the entrance to the building gave a date of ‘after 1529’. Samples from the fireplace timbers at ground and first floor gave dates of 1529-1547 and 1533-1551, tying in well with the entrance timber. This may date the construction of this Dobbin family tower house to the period 1533-1547, which agrees well with the main period of tower house building throughout Ireland generally. However, it leaves us wondering what type of structure the Dobbin family lived in before that - could these dates relate instead to a 16th century renovation of an older building?
Next door, in No.10 High Street, the THI discovered something even more unexpected, with the renovations uncovering several phases of another ancient building. That building seems to have begun life as a stone house attached to Dobbin’s Castle. We cannot be sure of how high it was originally, but it was at least single storey and possibly slightly higher. One internal timber sample gave a date of ‘after 1542’ and may point to a similar construction date to the tower house next door.
An exposed wall inside 10 High Street
If so, this could give us a date range of 1542-1547 for both buildings. Tree ring dating, and much survey work, showed that the building was then remodeled in the 1660s when it was heightened to two and a half storeys and had a rear stair tower added to make the building into a fine townhouse. Many of the roof and floor timbers were marked with roman numerals, which indicates that they were first carved somewhere else and joined together to make sure they fitted each other correctly. Then the timbers were marked with the numerals, disassembled, and taken to the No.10 building site, where they were fitted together again by matching the numbers.
Amazingly, within the stair tower part of the stairs still survived. These stairs are the oldest we know of in an urban dwelling in Northern Ireland and the THI project supported their restoration. Indeed, as the renovations created an apartment in No.10, the building seems to be our oldest urban house still in residential use.
No.10 was remodeled again in the period 1676-1689, when the roof was heightened to turn the attic into a full height usable space with several rooms. The building
later saw more phases of remodeling during the 1800s. But who constructed our Dobbin buildings? We have the name of a Stephen Dobbin from the town map of c.1560, and it may well be him who first built the towerhouse and adjoining building. A James Dobbin, possibly Stephen’s great-grandson, was Mayor of Carrickfergus in 1662 and the most senior Alderman in 1681. It may well have been James that turned No.10 into a fashionable townhouse to fit with the times and his status. Across the road from No.10, during archaeological excavations in the 1970s, a timber taken from the cellar of No.33 High Street gave a highly accurate tree ring date of 1683. The archaeologists thought that the cellar may have been the foundations of another tower house. If so, that tower house would have been the other ancient Dobbin’s Castle that we know sat in that location. That date sits within the 1676-89 range for the No.10 works and may show that Dobbins family buildings on both sides of High Street were being renovated at the same time in the early 1680s.
This important family, who had been in the town since the medieval period, and provided Carrickfergus with many Mayors and Sheriffs, dwindled into the background of society from the middle 1700s onwards. Prominent members had moved away and eventually sold their Carrickfergus lands and buildings. Thanks to the THI, however, we have been able to recover some of their past at a time during the 1500 and 1600s when the Dobbin family was at the height of its powers. In particular, the discovery of their previously unknown 1660’s townhouse with surviving stairs provides us with an important addition to the historic building stock of both the town, county and indeed entire Island of Ireland.
Dr Paul Logue, Historical Environment Division
The Education Programme
The THI scheme aimed not only to regenerate historic properties in Carrickfergus but also to highlight the important contribution they make to our understanding of the heritage of the town.
During a period of 2 years a THI Education Officer worked with a wide variety of groups to explore the built heritage of Carrickfergus, what has changed over the centuries, and to share this knowledge with as many people as possibile.
Examples of the Education Projects delivered included:
• Walking tours.
• Investigations into the historic fabric of Dobbins Inn, Market Place and 10 High Street using archaeologists and specialist techniques.
• Skills workshops working with local builders.
• Co-ordinating the celebration of World Heritage Day.
• The development of the town models by the Carrickfergus Men’s Shed, which can be viewed in the Carrickfergus Museum.
• The use of LEGO, modelling and Minecraft to support engagement with young people.
A number of publications were produced including the flagship publication ‘Carrickfergus Across the Centuries’ coffee table book publication, and the Education Programme supported the development of links with the Carrickfergus and District Historical Society.
The project worked with local teachers to develop a bespoke education resource called ‘Carrickfergus Built Heritage’. This curriculum based education pack looked at the history of Carrickfergus from the medieval period through to modern day, covering the Victorians and how the town has changed with new styles and uses of buildings. Many of the resources including “Carrickfergus Across the Centuries” are freely available to download from the Mid and East Antrim Borough Council website: www.midandeastantrim.gov.uk/CarrickfergusTHI
Acknowledgements
The THI Board would like to express its gratitude and thanks to those who have supported the delivery of the Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage programme.
First and foremost, we want to thank each of the project teams on which the scheme’s success depended, the owners, architects, specialist consultants, conservation architects, advisors, engineers, quantity surveyors and builders whose work and craftsmanship has left a legacy in our town, which people will enjoy and learn from for generations.
To The National Lottery Heritage Fund Board, it’s Board and staff for not only their support in the processing of claims, but for their encouragement in the early stages of development, advice and support through an extended process during challenging times.
We would also like to acknowledge the support of a range of statutory agencies and their staff in journeying with us over the past 10 years including those from the Northern Ireland Housing Executive, Department for Communities (Historic Environment Division), and Department of Infrastructure.
A special mention must go out to the Council Officers in Finance, Communications, Planning, Building Control, IT, Regeneration, Museums, and Tourism who supported the programme and stepped up when needed.
Finally, to Gail Kelly who supported the NLHF application process and THI project managers Frank McGrogan 2016-2019, Philippa Martin 2019-2022 and Keith Hamilton 2022-2024, education project staff Laura Patrick 2017-2020 and Donald Bell 2020 our Conservation Architectural consultants Coey Architects and to our project mentor Malachy Martin.
Heritage Contacts
If you want to learn more about the THI scheme or about local heritage, here are a number of contacts and useful web sites:
Carrickfergus Museum
www.midandeastantrim.gov.uk/carrickfergusmuseum 028 9335 8241
carrickfergusmuseums@midandeastantrim.gov.uk
Carrickfergus Castle
www.discovernorthernireland.com/carrickfergus 028 9335 1273
carrickfergus.castle@communities-ni.gov.uk
Historic Environment Division
Historic Environment Division records, protects, conserves, and promotes Northern Ireland’s historic environment. www.communities-ni.gov.uk/landing-pages/ historic-environment
The National Lottery Heritage Fund
Find out more about the projects The National Lottery Heritage Fund has supported. www.heritagefund.org.uk
Carrickfergus and District Historical Society
The society was established in 1974 to promote a knowledge and understanding of the past by means of education, recording and dissemination of information, especially of the history of the Carrickfergus area.
Carrickfergushistoricalsociety@gmail.com
Heritage Carrickfergus
Positive Carrickfergus
Positive Carrickfergus works to build community, promote community-led regeneration and increase civic participation so that Carrickfergus is a great place to live. This has included the development of a community-led historical maritime exhibition, Sails and Tales, based in the old Kelly’s Coal Office and the delivery of arts events in Carrickfergus’ historic Town Hall. www.positivecarrickfergus.org positivecarrickfergus@gmail.com
Carrickfergus Community Forum
Supports a number of member groups involved in the delivery of heritage projects. www.carrickferguscommunityforum.co.uk carrickcommunity@btconnect.com
Past and Present Carrickfergus Townscape Heritage Initiative Board Members and Advisors
Elected Members
Billy Ashe, James Brown, John McDermott, Lauren Gray, Robin Stewart, Cheryl Johnston, David Clarke, John Stewart and Bethany Ferris
Social Partners
Bob Harper, Paul Bunting, Robert Stewart, David Hilditch,Lee Robb, Norman McKeown, David Crosbie and Ruth Turkington. Advisors
Teresa Campbell, Paul Logue, Karen O’Neill, Paul Kerrigan, Philip Wightman, Roy McClean, Paul Carr, Neil Carr and Neil Richardson.
Townscape Heritage Trail
The trail takes a minimum of 50 minutes (40 minutes if you don’t visit the train station) and is an opportunity to learn about the history of the Town of Carrickfergus and its architecture.
1. Kelly’s Offices - a THI restored building originally the office of a coal importer and ship builder.
2. The Gill Alms Houses - Built originally in 1842 under the terms of the Will of Henry Gill as accommodation for men in the local area fallen on hard times.
3. The Town Walls - Sir Arthur Chichester, the 1st Baron Chichester, strengthened the town’s defences and built a circuit of high stone walls between 1608 and 1615.
4. The Irish Gate - The remains of one of two stonewall gateways into the town built in the 1700’s. It was called the Irish Gate because it led to the town’s Irish Quarter.
5. 1-3 Cheston Street - a THI restored Building on one of the oldest streets in the town.
6. 4 West Street - an 1820’s building restored by the THI scheme with a traditional shop front.
7. St Nicholas Church War Memorial Bell Towercompleted in 1962. It replaced the old tower which was begun in 1778. The gates depict the 3 crosses of Calvary.
8. St Nicholas’s Church - was founded in Norman times, making it approximately eight hundred years old. Sir Arthur Chichester rebuilt the Church in the early 1600s.
9. 3-5 Market Place - the former site for the YMCA in a THI restored property built in 1908.
10. The Market House - dated 1755.
11. 33 North Street - a THI restored property built in 1884.
12. North Street Presbyterian Church - Presbyterian worship in Carrickfergus began with the arrival of Rev. John Hubbard in 1621. The meeting house was built in 172O and has been significantly altered over the centuries.
13. The North Gate - built in 1615 and restored in 1911 in honour of the accession of George V.
14. Carrickfergus Train Station - built in 1895.
15. Carrickfergus Civic Centre and Museum - most of the buildings within the yard to the rear of Carrickfergus town hall date from 1897-1900 and were constructed for the use of the Royal Antrim Artillery. The building hosts the Carrickfergus Museum and archive.
16. Warrant Officers House and Military Goal - restored by the THI scheme and includes a military exhibition.
17. Carrickfergus Town Hall - the present town hall was completed in 1779 as the Antrim Court House.
18. 10 High Street - a THI restored building which dated back to the 1600’s and included a staircase dated 17th Century.
19. Dobbins Inn - a THI restored building with some of its internal timbers dating back to 1540. Dobbins is highlighted in maps dated 1832.
20. The Big Lamp - the original ‘Big Lamp’ was put up in 1881 at the Market Place end of High Street positioned at the very heart of Carrickfergus making it a popular place for people to meet.
21. Carrickfergus Castle - the order to begin construction at this strategic location was given by Anglo-Norman Knight John de Courcy in 1177.
