SICILIAN CAPONATA

BY LAURA RANGONI

THIS SICILIAN RECIPE HAS ANCIENT ORIGINS OF AT LEAST A FEW CENTURIES. IT SEEMS THAT THE NAME DERIVES FROM THE CAPONE FISH, WHICH THE NOBLES ENJOYED SEASONED WITH THE SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE TYPICAL OF CAPONATA. POOR PEOPLE, UNABLE TO AFFORD THE EXPENSIVE FISH, SEEM TO HAVE REPLACED IT WITH EGGPLANT.

THERE ARE MANY LOCAL VARIATIONS, WHICH INCLUDE THE INSERTION OF POTATOES, PEPPERS, COURGETTES, BUT THE ORIGINAL RECIPE HAS EGGPLANT AS THE UNDISPUTED PROTAGONIST. IT CAN BE EASILY KEPT IN THE REFRIGERATOR, AND AFTER A DAY IT IS EVEN MORE TASTY. I LIKE TO TASTE IT ON TOASTED BREAD, BUT ALSO AS A SIDE DISH OF GRILLED FISH OR CHICKEN.

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE

2 LARGE LONG AND FIRM AUBERGINES

200 G OF GREEN OLIVES

100 G OF PANTELLERIA SALTED CAPERS

2 ONIONS

1 CELERY STALK

300 G OF RIPE TOMATOES

2 TABLESPOONS OF SUGAR

100 ML OF WHITE WINE VINEGAR

200 ML OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 L OF OIL FOR FRYING SALT

BROWN THE EGGPLANTS IN THE HOT OIL. REMOVE THEM WITH A SLOTTED SPOON AND DRAIN THE EXCESS GREASE ONTO A SHEET OF ABSORBENT KITCHEN PAPER.

CUT THE ONIONS INTO SLICES AND CUT THE CELERY STICKS INTO SMALL PIECES. IN SOME AREAS OF SICILY IT IS ALSO USED TO PUT THE RED PEPPER, ALWAYS CUT INTO PIECES. DILUTE THE PANTELLERIA CAPERS UNDER RUNNING WATER.

PUT THE EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL IN A LARGE PAN AND FRY THE ONION. WHEN IT IS GOLDEN, ADD THE PIECES OF CELERY, THE DESALTED CAPERS AND THE OLIVES, AND CONTINUE COOKING FOR 5 MINUTES.

CUT THE TOMATOES INTO SMALL CUBES. I LIKE TO CHOP THEM AND KEEP THE PEEL, SOME PEOPLE PREFER INSTEAD TO BLANCH AND PEEL THEM.

ADD THE TOMATOES TO THE CAPONATA, RAISING THE FIRE TO EVAPORATE THE VEGETATION WATER. WHEN YOU SEE THAT THE SAUCE THICKENS, ADD SALT, VINEGAR AND SUGAR, STIRRING THOROUGHLY. FINALLY ADD THE FRIED AUBERGINES, LETTING THEM COOK FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES IN THE SAUCE TO MAKE THEM FLAVOR.

IN SOME TRADITIONS, THE CAPONATA IS THEN SPRINKLED WITH FINELY CHOPPED ALMONDS. SERVE WITH SLICES OF TOASTED BREAD.

WINE PAIRING: THE PRESENCE OF VINEGAR MAKES THIS DISH NOT EASY TO MATCH. I WOULD RECOMMEND A FAIRLY STRUCTURED,WARM,ROBUSTREDLIKEAETNAROSSODOC(SICILY),ANERELLOMASCALESEINPURITY,(SICILY),WHOSE MINERALITY CAN BE A VALID COUNTERPOINT TO THE FATNESS OF THE DISH OR A FRAPPATO (SICILY) WITH BALANCED TANNINS AND FRESH.