Jewellery Magazine #17 - The Australian Jewellery Design Awards Edition by mediaink6

THE DESIGN AWARDS

WWW.MEDIAINK.COM.AU

CREATIONS JEWELLERS

STUNNING AWARD SUBMISSIONS

WINS THE 3RD AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

WINNING ENTRY “PARTY GIRL”

THE RING THING

METAL WORK

DIAMOND FEVER AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS MAJOR SPONSORS AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS BIRON LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS FINE JEWELLERY IMAGES GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA THE GOLD & SILVERSMITH GUILD OF AUSTRALIA COVER // CREATIONS JEWELLERS - FINE JEWELLERY IMAGES

YOUR “I DO” DIAMONDS

DECLARING A UNION IN STYLE FOR ALL AWARD WINNERS WWW.MEDIAINK.COM.AU

SHOP 15 MERTHYR VILLAGE 83 MERTHYR ROAD NEW FARM QLD 4005 Ph: 07 3254 4444 Email: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au www.ageniuswithgems.com.au

MARK EVANS

FINEâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;JEWELLERY 69 Sugar Road Maroochydore Queensland 4558 Ph: 07 5443 2778 mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE FROM

Become a stockist today

www.acdiamonds.com.au Phone 1800 777 413 or 07 3205 6311

the

future

DIAMONDS ECO-FRIENDLY

BEAUTY

VALUE

Laboratory grown diamonds are ethically grown with minimal impact on the environment.

Lab diamonds have the same physical, chemical and optical properties of mined diamonds.

Lab diamonds offer excellent value and are approximately half the price of mined diamonds of comparable size and quality.

ABOUT LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS

laser

R BO

O GR

VISUALLY: Indistinguishable just by looking at it with the naked eye.

BIR

INSCRIBED Our laboratory Laboratory grown diamonds are laser Laserinscribed inscribed which is visible under a loupe.

CHEMICALLY: Created in rough crystal form by scientists. N

T RA

BIR

PHYSICALLY AND OPTICALLY: Special equipment is needed to establish with certainty whether a stone is lab-grown.

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE FROM

ENQUIRE TODAY • www.biron.com.au • Phone 1800 777 413 or 07 3205 6311

// EDITION 17

FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to the 17th annual edition of Jewellery Magazine. The following pages are filled with carefully crafted creations, rare and exceptional jewels and all the knowledge required to further nurture a deep appreciation for the finest jewellery and gems. Our 17th edition includes all of the many stunning entries submitted for the third Australian Jewellery Design Awards and once again our entries run the full gamut of artistry and creativity, highlighting technical precision and adherence to design fundamentals, but also delving deeply into the imagination and inventiveness that we have come to expect from Australia’s world class jewellery designers. Researching National Icons we put a spotlight on some of Australia’s own unique gems, from the finest opals, stunning pearls to exquisite Argyle Pink Diamonds, we’re celebrating the jewels of our sunburnt land.

unique beauty of coloured gems, and from across the globe we feature the recent winners of the prestigious 2019 Saul Bell Design Awards. Our 17th edition also features the work of leading jewellery photographers; Tandy Rowley, Tord Johnston, Anthony Masci and Fine Jewellery Images. Whether you are building up your own knowledge base to invest in an important piece, keeping abreast of current trends or simply wanting to indulge a love of fine jewellery, we’ve designed this issue with you in mind. Jewellery Magazine would not be complete without our own jewellers guide, and this edition once again features the names and creative geniuses behind the exceptional jewellery that adorns our many pages, so that you can be assured of finding the jeweller that is right for you.

For this edition, we caught up with master jeweller Mark Evans to uncover his stunning approach to the

Tara Rigney Group Editor

PUBLISHED BY Media Ink 85 Old Warrandyte Road Donvale VIC 3111 PUBLISHER Chris MacLeod GROUP EDITOR design@mediaink.com.au CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Simon Garner Bianca Mangion

//8

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Adam MacLeod adam@mediaink.com.au ADVERTISING Chris MacLeod Mobile: 0438 329 008 chris@mediaink.com.au FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Jun Teng accounts@mediaink.com.au ONLINE www.mediaink.com.au

DISTRIBUTION Distributed by Gordon & Gotch, Jewellery is available nationally at newsagents and specialty retailers.

INA BARRY GOLD & SILVERSMITH STUDIO 204, 20-22 MCKILLOP STREET, MELBOURNE BY APPOINTMENT 0409 39 37 38 www.inabarryjewellery.com ina@inabarryjewellery.com

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellery

// EDITION 17

CONTENTS Intelligence

Did You Know

The Finest of Them All

Gold Digger

Declaring A Union In Style

The Ring Thing

Your “I Do” Diamond

Diamond Fever

Wedding Collections

Metal Work

National Icons

Colour, Carat, Clarity, Cut

Maintaining Diamonds

Katheryn Leopoldseder

Unique Beauty Of Colour

Saul Bell Awards

Australian Chocolate Diamonds

Go Figure

Biron Laboratories

323-325 Little Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade, 282 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 8590 8560 sales@keshett.com.au www.keshett.com.au

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellery

// EDITION 17

CONTENTS Australian Jewellery Design Awards Gerard McCabe Jewellers

126

Ian Sharp Jewellery Craftsmanship

132

Asha Jewelry

iJewels

138

Australian Chocolate Diamonds

Lee Bon Jewellery

142

Ben Wilden Jewellery

Magnolia Designs

144

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds

Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

146

Bruce Robinson Diamonds

MDT Design

152

Creations Jewellers

MN Jewellery Design

162

Danny Lee Designs

Rhianon Barrett-Brook

164

De Klerk Jewellers

108

Rose & Crown Jewellers

166

Designer Jeweller McKay

114

The Erotic Jewellery Company

168

Desma Designs Jewellery

116

Alliam Jewellery

Diamond World Fine Jewellery

118

Jewel Gallery

Erin Pearce

120

170

Fine Gems

122

178

Finelines Jewellers

124

182

323-325 Little Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade, 282 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 8590 8560 sales@keshett.com.au www.keshett.com.au

// DID YOU KNOW

DID YOU KNOW • PRIZED SINCE THE ANCIENT TIMES, a fine emerald can be more expensive than a high quality diamond of the same carat weight. Egyptian emeralds were introduced to the world over 4000 years ago. During Cleopatra’s reign, she claimed the emerald mines as her own, being that it was her favourite gem, and often adorning herself in lavish emerald jewellery. In fact, the verdant sparkle of the gem has captured the fancy of many rulers, including

• THE INDUSTRIAL

Revolution of the 19th century

essentially created a jewellery market that was available to everyone. The middle class of a society could now purchase fine pieces of jewellery, and when imitation stones began flooding the market even those from working classes could afford a piece of jewellery.

• THE 17TH CENTURY

marked an increase in the use

Alexander the Great and Emperor Nero. Royal houses would

of diamonds and other gemstones. Instead of wearing a bevy

adorn their crowned leaders with the power and beauty of

of jewelled items people started wearing stunning high quality

this rare gem.

pieces. The last monarch to wear jewellery to great excess was Louis XIV of France.

All rings // Trewarne Fine Jewellery

• COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES

were formed to

openly market the sale of jewellery. The firms of Faberge, Cartier, Tiffany and other great jewellery companies have their beginnings and roots in the Industrial Revolution.

• MEN WERE THE FIRST to wear jewellery as a status symbol and as good luck amulets to aid them in battle. Aaron, the first high priest of Hebrews, wore 12 gemstones (representing the 12 tribes of Israel) in his silver breastplate. It is thought that this is when birthstones originated.

• THE LARGEST DIAMOND ever found was the Cullinan, which weighted 3106 carats (621 grams) and came from South Africa’s Premier mine in 1905. The Cullinan

• ONE MAJOR SOURCE

of design originated

diamond was cut into nine large gems and 100 smaller stones

in the Victorian age of England. It was under this influence that

and now forms part of the British Crown Jewels.

jewellery turned from nature to solid, more dignified designs and richer, heavier stones. By 1860, women were wearing hoopskirts, shawls and long sleeves and jewellery coordinated with large pins worn at the throat, long earrings, heavy bracelets and heavily worked gold rings. When Albert died in 1861, mourning became a national pastime and mourning jewellery went along with the trend. Black onyx and jet were worn constantly.

• EARLY IN ITS INCEPTION,

jewellery was

associated with religious rites. Gold and jewels were used as gifts for the maintenance of worship. In accordance with this began the presumption that benefits could be derived from their wear and soon began the development of a complex network of fictitious powers being attributed to them.

65 Toorak Rd, South Yarra . Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866 4983 www.iansharp.com.au

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // Minzenmay

GOLD DIGGER JEWELLERY DIGS THE DIRT ON SOME KNOWLEDGE– WORTHY NUGGETS.

1. More

than half of all humanity’s gold has been

extracted in the past 50 years. Now the world’s richest deposits are fast being depleted, and new discoveries rare. Most of the gold left to mine exists as traces buried in remote and fragile corners of the globe.

Gold is so rare that the world pours more steel in an hour than it has poured gold since the beginning of recorded history.

52 percent of gold that is mined is used for jewellery, 18 percent constitutes official holdings

Jewellery // Danny Lee Designs

(as in central banks of nations), 16 percent takes the form of investments, 12 percent finds industrial uses, leaving two percent unaccounted for.

Gold is so pliable that it can be made into sewing thread. An ounce of gold can be stretched over 80 kilometres.

5. Gold is chemically inert, which explains why it never rusts and does not cause skin irritation. If gold jewellery irritates the skin, it is likely it was mixed with another metal.

The gold mining town of Kalgoorlie has the world's richest square mile of gold-bearing earth. The largest gold nugget ever found is the ‘Welcome Stranger’, discovered by John Deason and Richard Oates in Australia in 1869. It is said the nugget amounted to 2,380 ounces and was found just two

on earth.

inches below the ground surface.

Gold melts at 1064.43 degrees centigrade. It can conduct

Jewellery // Finelines Jewellers

Gold has been discovered on every continent

both heat and electricity and it never rusts.

10. India is the biggest consumer of gold in the world. Jewellery // MN Jewellery Design

65 Toorak Rd, South Yarra . Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866 4983 www.iansharp.com.au

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

THE RING THING You will have your engagement & wedding rings for the rest of your life so choosing something that you will love and cherish is an important decision. There is a myriad of styles and materials available so what will suit you best? Jewellery has a quick guide to help you on your quest for the perfect ring. Jewellery // Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery Image // Anthony Masci

BEFORE BUYING YOUR RING Your wedding ring carries a lot of significance and is one of the most emotionally significant moments during your wedding planning experience. As symbols of your eternal commitment to each other, your wedding rings hold inherent importance to your ceremony. Thus time should be taken to choose your rings carefully, ensuring they align with your style and budget as a couple. Jewellery // Tishe Image // Tord Johnston

WEAR AND CARE No matter the metal you have chosen for your wedding ring, it can damage or tarnish over the time. Look after your rings by removing them when doing chores or playing sport. Cleaning agents and cosmetics can dull its appearance so maintain its shine by having it cleaned regularly by a professional. Jewellery // Creations Image // Tandy Rowley

WHERE TO BEGIN? Window shopping is a great way to get an idea of the array of designs, metals and prices. You can also browse the Internet and flip through magazines for inspiration. Your choice should reflect your budget, style and most importantly, lifestyle. Choose good quality and well-made rings that will stand the test of time. Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

MATCHING SETS Generally, your wedding band should match your engagement ring as more often than not, they will be worn together on the same finger. You can also think of wearing matching wedding rings with your husband-to-be which is a very romantic touch.

DESIGN DECISIONS Brides-to-be should consider the engagement ring shape so that the wedding band will compliment it. Designs of wedding rings are diverse and varied. Whether you like classic or fancy shape diamond rings there is a full range of designs to suit you. Comfort is also important so it is advisable to choose the right fit that is not too tight and not too loose. Jewellery // Creations Jewellers

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // Gerard McCabe Jewellers

DIAMOND FEVER A diamond is an exquisite gemstone that needs no explanation when it comes to beauty and brilliance. With such beauty, comes mystery, which is unfolded below.

Champagne diamonds are naturally coloured diamonds that are produced in a wide range of colours from light straw to rich cognac. Argyle diamonds created the following scale specifically for champagne diamonds. The diamonds are graded on a C1- C7 colour scale. C1 and C2 represent light champagne, C3 and C4 medium champagne, and C5 and C6 dark champagne. The fancy cognac diamond is graded C7.

2. Not all diamonds are white. Impurities lend diamonds a shade of blue, red, orange, yellow, green and even black. Vivid blue, green and pink mined diamonds are some of the rarest.

A diamond carat differs from a gold carat. The gold carat indicates purity where pure gold is 24 carats. One diamond carat, for mined or synthetics diamonds, is 200 milligrams. The word carat derives from the carob bean. Gem dealers used to balance their scales with carob beans because these beans all have same weight.

A diamond is 58 times harder than the next hardest mineral on earth, corundum, from which rubies and sapphires are formed.

The term ‘total carat weight’ (t.c.w) is used when more than one gemstone is used in a piece of jewellery. For example, a pair of diamond solitaire earrings is described in t.c.w to refer to the total mass of the diamonds in both earrings as opposed to a single earring.

More than 99% of diamonds are now from conflict free sources and traded under the UN-mandated Kimberley Process. The Kimberley Process requires that each time a rough diamond is traded, it is accompanied by a certificate with a legally binding guarantee that it is from a conflict free source.

Jewellery // Arkion Boutique Investments

Jewellery // Trewarne Fine Jewellery

There are several famous black diamonds. One of the most famous is the Black Orlov (also called ‘The Eye of Brahma’), a black diamond weighing 67.5 carats. According to legend, the diamond brings death to anyone who owns it, and it has been blamed for the death of two Russian princesses.

Black diamonds are also called Carbonado. A name coined by Portuguese because of the diamond’s resemblance to porous charcoal.

Jewellery // Keshett Image // Anthony Masci

The very word itself comes from the Greek term ‘adamas’ which means ‘unconquerable’.

10. Approximately one million people are employed by the

diamond industry in India. Today, 9 out of 10 diamonds are polished in India.

Jewellery // Keshett Image // Anthony Masci 20

AWARD WINNING DESIGNERS AND RESIDENT JEWELLERS

STYLE ARCADE MANUKA CANBERRA (02) 6295 1763 www.creationsjewellers.com.au Instagram Social Icon

@creationsjewellers share’n is care’n @mrkylemac

// INTELLIGENCE

Earrings // Breuning

METAL WORK Jewellery // Minzenmay

Jewellery molds out the metals.

GOLD

GOLDEN TIP

Gold has long since been a precious metal, greatly valued by people all over the world. The purity of gold is measured in karats. Some countries mark gold with a three-digit number that tells you what percentage of gold an item contains. So for example, a piece of jewellery may have “750” indicated on it which means it has 750/1000 of gold which is equivalent to 18Kt. Gold is quite simply one of the most respected metals around because of its timelessness, beauty and stable nature. Gold in its purest form doesn’t react with other elements to create the residue that builds up and stains your skin. It’s also one of the most malleable and softest metals that can be molded in nearly any way an artist wishes. Pure gold is not practical for everyday wear so to make it harder, less expensive or to add colour, it’s usually mixed with other metals. Yellow gold contains 50% silver and 50% copper. White gold is alloyed with nickel, zinc, copper, tin and manganese. Most white gold is also plated with rhodium which makes it harder and gives it its sheen. Over time, depending on the amount the piece of jewellery is worn you may need to re-plate the rhodium which is a simple and relatively quick process. Pink or rose gold is mixed with 90% copper and 10% silver to give it that “rose” colouring.

Ring // Bastian Inverun

Earrings // Bastian Inverun

Some people have allergies to nickel or other metals- if this is the case it’s recommended to go for jewellery with a higher content of goldthis is also more durable for everyday wear.

SILVER Breaking away from gold we find ourselves at silver’s doorstep. Pure silver has a hardness of 2.5 on the Mohs scale and is often used in jewellery as it’s relatively soft and malleable. Copper is usually mixed in to make it more durable although this has very little effect on its value. If you are after high quality, it's sterling silver we turn to. Sterling silver is made up of approximately 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. This won’t wear down and gives off a brilliant shine which compliments any gemstones that may be set within it.

Jewellery // Silvermist Studio

SILVER TIP When buying silver, make sure you look for a registered trademark mark as well as the maker’s mark on the undersideall silver by federal law must have this mark to ensure its level of quality.

DESIGN, MANUFACTURING, REPAIRS & RESTORATION Shop 70B Doncaster Road North Balwyn Victoria 3104 ph/fx: 03 9859 1110 m: 0417 386 171 dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com

Design,www.dannyleedesigns.com Manufacturing, Repairs &

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // Valenzo

COLOUR, CARAT, CLARITY, CUT. Before you start out on your all-important search, it’s imperative you familiarise yourself with the four C’s of diamond dealing.

The quality over quantity principal also applies when putting a ring on it. For example, you could risk buying an enormous rock that may not have half the quality of a smaller diamond at the same price. So let’s cut to it!

Jewellery // Valenzo Jewellers

COLOUR

When it comes to colour, less is more and the whiter the diamond, the better. Most diamonds within a reasonable price will range from white to yellow. Determined through a range of alphabets D, E and F refer to colourless (white) diamonds, while G, H, I and J are nearly colourless according to the GIA colour grades. A perfect white diamond should be crystal clear – the less yellow or brown streaks visible the more rare and valuable a diamond is.

CARAT A diamond’s weight is measured in carats (not to be confused with karat, which indicates gold’s purity). A carat is equivalent to a fifth of a gram and exactly 200 milligrams. They are weighed using a precision scale, as mere fractions of a carat can mean the difference between hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

CLARITY Clarity is the measure of the number of blemishes (external defects) and inclusions (internal defects) of a stone. An S11 or S12 diamond has inclusions or blemishes larger than a grain of salt when viewed under 10-power magnification. Whilst nearly all diamonds contain flaws, it’s important to determine there aren’t enough flaws to seriously lessen its value. Though on the positive, diamond flaws are as unique as a fingerprint and can be used as identifiers.

CUT The cut refers to the workmanship of a diamond and the manner in which it’s polished and shaped to give it its brilliance and fire. Not to be confused with a diamond’s shape, a stone’s cut or make refers to the number, placement and shape of the facets that create a finished diamond. A gem cutter sculpts the diamond’s many facets with geometric precision; symmetrically arranging them to affect the way light travels through the stone. A poorly cut diamond will ‘leak’ light out the back and some cutting faults can even make a diamond prone to breaking.

DISCOVER

A NEW WORLD Explore a passion. Meet a new community of people who are passionate about gemstones and learning more. Learn more about the fascinating world of gemstones. • Where they come from • How they are formed • Learn about all the varieties • • • •

How rare they are How they are mined How to wear them How to design and draw jewellery

COURSES AVAILABLE* Diploma in Gemmology Diploma in Diamond Technology Practical Diamond Grading Advanced Practical Diamond Grading Advanced Gemstone Inclusions Retail Diamond Consultant Retail Opal & Pearl Consultant Retail Coloured Gemstone Consultant Retail Training by Correspondence Synthetic and Gemmology Update Introduction to Gems and Gemmology Introduction to Antique Jewellery Jewellery Product Knowledge Jewellery Sketching Jewellery Design Pearl Threading Advanced Pearls Advanced Opals Advanced Jade Rare and Infrequently Encountered stones

*Not all courses available in all states. Please contact your local state division for more information.

www.gem.org.au info@gem.org.au for more information

New South Wales Division 24 Wentworth Ave Darlinghurst NSW 2010

Queensland Division Suite 1A, 443 Ipswich Annerley QLD 4103

South Australian Division GPO Box 191 Adelaide SA 5001

Tasmanian Division PO Box 2138 Howrah Tas 7018

Victorian Division 380-382 Spencer St West Melbourne VIC 3003

Western Australian Division PO Box 431 Claremont WA 6910

Tel: (02) 9264 5078 email: nsw@gem.org.au

Tel: 0448 325 314 email: qld@gem.org.au

Tel: (08) 8227 1377 email: sa@gem.org.au

Tel: 0438 677 619 email: tas@gem.org.au

Tel: (03) 9326 6160 email: vic@gem.org.au

Tel: (08) 9385 5489 email: wa@gem.org.au

Get the Complete Picture Discover the fascinating world of gemstones

{

A SAMPLE OF THE GEMSTONES A GEMMOLOGIST CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH ADVICE INCLUDES:

WHAT IS GEMMOLOGY?

Gemmology is the science concerned with gems. It is a scientific discipline that has evolved from mineralogy and geology.

Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Aquamarine, Morganite, Diamond, Tourmaline, Spinel, Zircon, Garnets that come in red, pink, orange and green (Tsavorite and Demantoid), Tanzanite, Pearl, Amber, Opal, Jade, as well as a plethora of lesser known and rare stones!

21st century gemmology involves the scientific study of

gemstones, ornamental materials, organic gem materials, their synthetics (laboratory grown), imitations and the

WHAT DOES A GEMMOLOGIST DO?

treatments/enhancements. These materials are identified

using a combination of established theoretical knowledge and a comprehensive range of gem-testing techniques using specialised gem-testing instruments.

Fellows of the GAA (FGAA) have completed our internationally recognised Diploma in Gemmology and are trained to apply specialised, scientifically-based knowledge to the identification of all types of gemstones.

WHAT IS THE GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA?

A gemmologist can tell you the story of the gemstone, where it may be found now and in the past. They can easily recognize a gemstone’s variety and can identify and evaluate details that are not noticeable or visible to

The Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA)

the human eye.

is an Australia-wide, not-for-profit Association that has

By examining a stone, gemmologists are able to

been passionately educating the jewellery and gem

industry, gemstone enthusiasts and consumers about gemstones since 1945. Since its inception the GAA

has been Australia’s leading gemmological educator.

determine external and internal characteristics that identify and separate natural gems from synthetic or imitation stones.

We have teaching facilities in each state. We train people who have a career path in mind. We also educate many of the general public who have an interest in gems

A GEMMOLOGIST CAN:

and gemmology. Some do short courses and others

do the full Diploma course. Both enjoy the community

•

of gem enthusiasts.

HOW DO I FIND A GEMMOLOGIST?

including diamonds, using visual examination and specialised instruments •

hand side of the screen.

Advise on gem variations and options for your jewellery requirements

•

You can find a gemmologist on the GAA website

www.gem.org.au by using the on the bottom right

Identify all types of natural gemstones,

Assess a stone’s durability and suitability for a particular purpose

•

Gemmologists are also able to identify imitations of natural gems as well as enhancements and treatments.

•

Help you to make informed decisions about a potential purchase

1300 GEM EDU | www.gem.org.au |

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts and consumers about gemstones

ARE THERE SPECIALISED QUALIFICATIONS IN DIAMONDS?

WHAT IS A DIAMOND TECHNOLOGIST?

Diamonds are perhaps the world’s most popular gemstone

A graduate of our Diamond Technology Diploma (Dip

and for that reason the GAA provides a number of

DT) has completed training in all aspects of Practical

specialised diamond courses that cover the complete

Diamond Grading as well as a comprehensive theory

diamond story; from their evolution millions of years ago to

program, from a diamond’s beginning as carbon atoms

the finished piece of jewellery and everything on the journey.

in the Earth’s mantle to its final destination as a cut stone.

The GAA’s diamond courses focus of the scientific study of diamonds and are internationally recognised as the

Topics covered include:

Australian benchmark qualification in the identification

•

Geology, mining, extraction and sorting

and handling of diamonds.

•

Theory of colour, cut and clarity grading

•

History of diamond cuts and the evolution

Our hands-on course ensures that graduates of our

Practical Diamond Grading courses can independently assess the 4Cs of a diamond: Colour, Cut, Clarity and Carat Weight, to international certificate standards.

to the modern cuts used today

•

to maximise weight and brilliance

Using professional tools and techniques, they learn to: •

Accurately grade a diamond’s colour

•

Make visual estimations of proportions of

cut diamonds by locating indicators used in proportion estimation •

Determine a diamond’s clarity grading by plotting

the internal and external characteristics of the stone •

Weigh an unset diamond or estimate the weight of one that is already set

Diamond manufacturing – how diamonds are cut

•

Identification techniques for all types of diamond

imitants, such as cubic zirconia, synthetic diamonds (diamonds made in a laboratory)

WHO TEACHES GAA COURSES?

Our trainers are leading academics in their field, with

many working within the jewellery and allied industries.

Our courses also provide instruction to identify a natural

They possess a wealth of knowledge and experience

diamond against well-known imitations, such as cubic

and keep up to date with continuing developments in

zirconia and synthetic moissanite, as well as a number

gemstones and diamonds.

of more common diamond treatments, such as fracture filling and laser drilling.

I’m interested in doing a course to find out more about gemstones, do you have courses for the general public?

Yes, indeed. State teaching centres offer an introductory gemmology course. Run as a short course, you will

be introduced to the main gemstone varieties, handle

basic instruments and basic information about localities and composition.

Contact your local State Division for more information.

‘I really appreciated the lecturers’ extensive practical and theoretical knowledge. The camaraderie with my fellow students made for an interesting and supportive learning experience.’ Susan Hartwig FGAA

‘I have learned from the most knowledgeable, passionate and patient teachers imaginable. They opened up a world of knowledge, enriching my lifelong hobby and hopefully paving the way for a fascinating career.’ Ying Qin FGAA

ADELAIDE

P: (08) 8227 1377

E: sa@gem.org.au

BRISBANE

P: 0448 325 314

E: qld@gem.org.au

HOBART

P: 0438 677 619

E: tas@gem.org.au

MELBOURNE

P: (03) 9326 6160

E: vic@gem.org.au

PERTH

P: (08) 9385 5489

E: wa@gem.org.au

SYDNEY

P: (02) 9264 5078

E: nsw@gem.org.au

// INTELLIGENCE

KATHERYN LEOPOLDSEDER IS BOTH A JEWELLER AND AN ARTIST.

Jewellery // Katheryn Leopoldseder in her Studio Photography Beth Wilkinson Abbotsford Convent

She handcrafts distinctive contemporary jewellery, available through her website and from her studio by appointment. Her collections are represented by several of Melbourne’s vibrant jewellery galleries; including e.g.etal in Melbourne’s Flinders Lane and Studio Ingot in Fitzroy. Leopoldseder has experienced both the highs of showcasing her jewellery in New York, as well as the challenges of charting new territory in the international contemporary jewellery scene; by touring a solo exhibition to India. A country with an extraordinarily deep jewellery heritage but relatively new to jewellery as contemporary art. Surrounded by vintage tooling, Leopoldseder handcrafts her jewellery from a character filled studio at the Abbotsford Convent. Each collection expresses themes and techniques distilled over years. Luxurious stones, pared-back organic forms and contrasting metal finishes characterise her jewellery.

The themes for each collection are distinct and drawn from her own life; Sea highlights the forms and textures she discovered as a child walking the beaches of the Mornington Peninsula, while her Urban Flowers are angular and bold hybrids; musings on the resilience of plants in the urban landscape. While her studio may be a little hidden; her jewellery has travelled the world. Sometimes as a personal gesture between lovers; other times on the lapels of world leaders. In 2014 the Australian Federal Government commissioned Leopoldseder to design and handcraft twenty brooches showcasing Australia’s outstanding South Sea pearls. The brooches were gifted by the Government to the spouses of each of the G20 delegates. A gesture of welcome. In the days after the event, Madame Peng was photographed wearing Leopoldseder’s brooch throughout their Australian tour.

Jewellery // Photographer Anj Rodil - Model Carmel Sicorra

This September, Leopoldseder turns her inspiration to science and nature through an intricate crown of golden alfalfa, celebrating the discoveries of nano-scientist Jorge Gardea-Torresday. Born in Mexico, Gardea-Torresday witnessed the decimation of his childhood land through industrial gold mining. He then went on to discover that Alfalfa is able to mine alluvial gold. Drawing precious metal from the soil into its roots, stems and leaves through the natural process of phytoremediation. Drawing Out the Gold is showing as part of The Radiant Pavilion Jewellery and Object Biennial from the 7th-15th September in The Crypt, at The Good Shepherd Chapel, Abbotsford. 10-3pm daily. See www.katherynleopoldseder.com.au for more details.

// INTELLIGENCE

RIO GRANDE ANNOUNCES WINNERS OF

2019 SAUL BELL DESIGN AWARD COMPETITION

Jewellery // "Lineal Alchemyâ&#x20AC;? by Debbie Sheezel (Melbourne, Australia) Best of Show

At a celebration dinner held on May 19 in Albuquerque, NM, Rio Grande announced the winners of the 19th annual Saul Bell Design Award competition. In this international competition, finalists were selected from hundreds of entries submitted by designers from around the world. The pieces epitomize the very best of the jewelry industry in creativity, design and fabrication. Through two rounds of rigorous judging, experts drawn from across the jewelry industry chose first- and second-place winners, as well as a single best-of-show recipient, from designs submitted in nine competitive categories. Prizes, awards and congratulations were presented to each winning designer at the gala dinner and celebration event, which coincided with the Santa Fe SymposiumÂŽ jewelry technology conference. The winning designs, as well as all finalist pieces, are featured

online at saulbellaward.com with downloadable, high-resolution photos of each entry. Since launching in 2001, the Saul Bell Design Award has become one of the most sought-after prizes for jewelers and metalsmiths worldwide. For information about the 2020 Saul Bell Design Award competition, designers are invited to visit saulbellaward.com, email events@riogrande.com or call 800.952.6222. Rio Grande thanks all of the artists who submitted their work, as well as the judges who carefully evaluated their submissions. And we congratulate each of the winners and finalists, whose work rose to a level of craftsmanship and creativity that, as always, is breathtaking.

// INTELLIGENCE

“The Dweller of Unal” by Judicael Vales (Nevada City, CA, USA) “Light Two” by Ashley Warsaw-Fiorvanti (Hilton Head Island, SC, USA) Hollowware/Art Objects: “Cherry Blossom in Winter Snow” by Marilyn Bailey (Hendersonville, NC, USA) “Well of Life” by Janet Huddie (Crownsville, MD, USA) “Agave Pitcher” by Preston Jones (New York, NY, USA)

THE 2019 SAUL BELL DESIGN AWARD COMPETITION WINNERS: Best of Show: “Lineal Alchemy” by Debbie Sheezel (Melbourne, Australia) Enamel: First Place: “Spirit & Flame" by Sandra McEwen (Raleigh, NC, USA) Second Place: “The Endless Love” by Garen Garibian (Los Angeles, CA, USA) Gold/Platinum: First Place: “Moebius No.1” by Pierre-Yves Paquette (Saint-Jerome, QC, Canada) Second Place: “Star Hen Galaxy Pendant” by Adam Neeley (Laguna Beach, CA, USA Silver/Argentium® Silver: First Place: “Prospect Palace” by Mehrnoosh Ganji (Melbourne, Australia) Second Place: “Suftal Fidda” by Maja Houtman (Utrecht, Netherlands) Alternative Metals/Materials: First Place: “Eclipsim” by Kirk Lang (Seattle, WA, USA) Second Place: “Torus Bracelet for an Astronaut” by Ezra Satok-Wolman (Caledon, ON, Canada) Hollowware/Art Objects: First Place: “Luminous Relic #1628” by David Huang (Sand Lake, MI, USA) Second Place: “The Echinacea Teapot” by Valerie Jo Coulson (Pequea, PA, USA) Jewelry Collection Fashion/Bridge: First Place: “Kirigami Pearl Collection” by Karin Jacobson (Minneapolis, MN, USA) Second Place: “Jupiter” by Liz Sabol (Pittsburgh, PA, USA)

Jewelry Collection Couture/Fine: First Place: “HELICES” by Sophia Hu (Las Vegas, NV, USA) Second Place: “Sunshine and Shadow” by Valerie Jo Coulson (Pequea, PA, USA) Emerging Jewelry Artist 18 Years of Age and Younger: First Place: “Midnight” by Christopher Liu (Allen, TX, USA) Second Place: “Mokume Chainmail Choker” by Ethan Hansen (Salida, CO, USA) Emerging Jewelry Artist 22 Years of Age and Younger: First Place: “Open Spiculum Cuff with Black Diamond” by Timo Krapf (Pittsford, NY, USA) Second Place: “Flower of Life Amulet” by Tristan Dunn (Asheville, NC, USA) 2019 FINALISTS Enamel: “Collection of Thirteen Eyes” by Lillian Jones (Raleigh, NC, USA) “Releasing Butterflies” by Sydney Scherr (Santa Fe, NM, USA) Gold/Platinum: “The Mystic Fountain” by Garen Garibian (Los Angeles, CA, USA) “Jellyfish Earrings” by Pavit Gujral (Chandigarh, India) “Queen Bee” by Llyn Strong (Greenville, SC, USA) Silver/Argentium® Silver: “Flowering” by Christine De Vogel (Rotterdam, Netherlands) “Counterpoint” by Han-Yin Hsu (Tacoma, WA, USA) “An Elegant Disintegration” by Andi Terry (Liberty Hill, TX, USA) Alternative Metals/Materials: “Bear Bones” by Heidi Kummli (Nederland, CO, USA)

Jewelry Collection Fashion/Bridge: “Migration of Butterflies” by Wiwat Kamolpornwijit (Alexandria, VA, USA) “A Thousand Masks” by Zejia Lin; Dongguan GAFA Culture & Creativity Institute (Guangdong, China) “Fusing and Freezing” by Mingshuai Sun; Dongguan GAFA Culture & Creativity Institute (Guangdong, China) Jewelry Collection Couture/Fine: “Christmas Tree Worm Collection” by Pavit Gujral (Chandigarh, India) “Pablo Neruda Collection” by Eva Martin (Queensland, Australia) “Illusion Collection” by Farzaneh Nozari (Savannah, GA, USA) Emerging Jewelry Artist 18 Years of Age or Younger: “Heirloom” by Jade Adelman (Haverford, PA, USA) “Howling Wolf” by Alexandra Ortiz (Fort Worth, TX, USA) “Seraphina” by Abby Schwab (Fort Atkinson, WI, USA) Emerging Jewelry Artist 22 Years of Age or Younger: “That Which Could Not Be Done” by James Betts (Christiana, PA, USA) “Dinner Ring” by Nicholas Hesson (Holland, PA, USA) “Splash” by Dillon McNamara (Longmont, CO, USA)

Jewellery // Ian Sharp Image // Gazi Photography

// INTELLIGENCE

GO FIGURE Jewellery does the number crunch on some of the world’s most alluring gemstones and treasures.

150

1979

575

The diamond is 58 times harder than the next hardest mineral on earth, corundum, from which rubies and sapphires are formed.

The world’s largest diamond mine was discovered in 1979, to become the Argyle Diamond Mine in the rugged Kimberley region of Western Australia.

35.3

Petra Diamonds sold a 507-carat diamond for $35.3 million in 2010, breaking a record for the highest price ever paid for a rough diamond. The gem was purchased in a tender by Chow Tai Fook Jewelry Co Ltd in Hong Kong.

2,032

This is the tons of gold estimated demand on part of the jewellery industry worldwide in 2011.

302,500

The price of the world’s most expensive Barbie ever made. Leading Australian jeweller, Stefano Canturi was commissioned to custom design the doll, which featured an openwork variously cut diamond collar necklace, centering upon a square cut Fancy Vivid purplish pink Argyle diamond, weighing approximately 1.00 carat. ‘Barbie by Stefano Canturi’ sold for a record US $302, 500 to anonymous bidder in 2010, with all profits going to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Natural diamonds were formed approximately three billion years ago, 150 kilometres beneath the earth’s surface.

Marco Polo gave the Arco Valley Pearl to Khubilai Khan, the emperor of China. It weighted 575 carats.

110.03

The Sun Drop Diamond is the largest known pearshaped Fancy Vivid yellow diamond in the world. Sold as part of the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Collection in 2011 for 10 million Swiss francs ($10.7 million), the gem weighs 110.03 carats and has a purity of VVS1, the highest colour grading for a yellow diamond by the GIA.

More than 99 per cent of diamonds are now from conflict free sources and traded under the UN-mandated Kimberley Process. The Kimberley Process requires that each time a rough diamond is traded, it is accompanied by a certificate with a legally binding guarantee that it is from a conflict free source.

10,000

Natural colour diamonds, such as champagne diamonds, are extremely rare: the physical conditions that colour a diamond occur very scarcely, so much so that only one in 10,000 diamonds is a natural colour diamond, which is why they’re so treasured!

// INTELLIGENCE

THE FINEST OF THEM ALL The rare beauty of pink diamonds knows no substitute. Bianca Mangion discusses the astonishing rise in value of the world’s most-desired gems.

Jewellery // Bruce Robionson Diamonds

The Australian national anthem boasts, “Our land abounds in nature’s gifts of beauty rich and rare.” This is perhaps nowhere near as pertinent than when describing Argyle pink diamonds. The stunning, blushing beauties born in the wild of the remote East Kimberley region in Western Australia have never been more prized for their rarity and value. In recent years, exceptional examples have fetched upwards of $1m per carat and prices seem set to go higher still! This is because the Rio Tinto Argyle Diamond Mine, where over 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds are unearthed is tipped to close in a mere four to five years, creating genuine scarcity in the market. “This now makes an Argyle pink diamond ‘the ultimate limited edition’,” says Craig Leonard of Leonard’s Jewellers. Operating in Newcastle, New South Wales since 1932, Leonard’s Jewellers offers a wide collection of pink diamonds, including the prized Argyle pinks, with expertise to match. Leonard is passionate about pinks, calling them the most concentrated form of wealth in the world and stating that the price of the gems has increased 430

per cent in the last 11 years. “They are the rarest and most valuable hard asset on Earth today,” he quips. “It is projected by the world’s leading diamond experts that they will continue to grow in price for at least the next 10 years.” Rare indeed: it is estimated that there are 10,000 colourless diamonds for every coloured diamond in existence. In operation since 1983, Argyle supplies approximately 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds yet pink diamonds are rare, even for Argyle. While the mine produces 600 million stones annually, only one tenth of one per cent is pink – white and champagne diamonds are in greater abundance while blue and green diamonds also appear there at times. Of an annual yield, the amount of Argyle pink diamonds sized half a carat or greater would fit into the palm of your hand so it’s testament to the popularity of pink diamonds that the mine is best known for them. Rarer still, the violet diamonds produced there in a year would only just fill a teaspoon. Such rarity demands the most exclusive trading conditions. The

This page: Left Pendant // Bruce Robinson Diamonds Right Ring // JWG

finest stones from a year’s production are reserved for the annual Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender, usually featuring those sized half a carat and upwards. These precious stones are cut and polished by the most skilled artisans and then graded by two independent grading laboratories. These labs apply a unique grading system to the stones, mainly inspecting the richness of colour, which can range from red to pink, purplish pink to pink rose and pink champagne to violet. Once graded, the diamonds are ready for tender. Of the one million carats of rough diamonds produced at the mine each year, only one carat of pink diamonds is available for sale at the event truly making each of these stones a one-in-a-million purchase! The finest 55-60 diamonds are revealed at a private showing, where prospective buyers have the opportunity to place sealed bids. Is it any wonder these precious gems are so coveted?! Leonard advises those looking to obtain a pink diamond – whether looking to make a self-managed superannuation investment or to use the stones as complementary side diamonds on an engagement ring – not to settle for anything less. “Ensure it’s an Argyle pink diamond, not an African or Brazilian pink as these diamonds do not have the rarity that will keep driving the prices up,” he warns. If you are purchasing a pink diamond jewellery piece, Leonard advises to opt for popular, classic designs: “When it comes to styles, most people keep to a profit.” Value aside, a pink diamond lover appreciates these beauties for the depth of their romantic hue, which should be observed when making a purchase. The more intense and deep its colour, the greater the value of a pink diamond – the rare deep red is the ultimate prize. “Unlike white diamonds it’s all about the saturation of pink colour and not the clarity, as most Argyle pink diamonds are I1 to SI2 in clarity,” Leonard adds. This pink tone is purportedly produced as a result of rare geological conditions. While scientists are still uncertain, many accept that a pink diamond’s colour comes from a distortion in the diamond’s molecular structure

Jewellery // Arkion Boutique Investments

what’s popular as they will generally want to resell it after a few years to make

following its formation in the Earth’s mantle or during its 160km ascent to the Earth’s surface. When they do appear, only the luckiest few will ever get to possess these precious pinks.

// INTELLIGENCE

DECLARING A

UNION IN STYLE

Jewellery // MDT Image // Tord Johnston

Becoming engaged to the one you love is a beautiful and very personal act, which should be reflected in the jewellery that symbolises this commitment. Bianca Mangion uncovers current trends in menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s engagement rings.

Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

Another way to highlight the engagement band is with precious stones. According to Theochari, around half of all MDT Designs’ male customers include stones in their engagement bands.

A woman’s engagement ring is often traditional and simple in style, allowing the diamond to tell the story while shining its brightest; however, men are not bound by such conventions and can afford to be more liberal with the style of their rings whilst still keeping their pieces timeless. Men’s engagement rings are big business today and, in contrast to the classic solitaire for the girls, guys are somewhat freer to explore the use of textures, tones and stones to create pieces that scream style while also telling the world of their upcoming nuptials. Custom designs herald a shift toward personalisation, which is a trend that MDT Designs workshop manager and sales executive Kosta Theochari is noticing among his clients. The moment Thoechari explains to men their options for enagement rings, his customers usually choose to put an individual spin on their choices. “At first, men think their only options are to purchase something readymade yet this soon changes when we explain everything here is 100 per cent handmade onsite and that modifications can be done,” Theochari explains. “Around 80 per cent of men don’t find exactly what they want on a shelf so they opt to change elements of designs such as the finish, metal tones and adding or removing stones.” The Melbourne-based jeweller attests that simple changes can make for a ring with individuality, something especially to suit the wearer, and rightly so.

or 18-carat white and rose gold. The metal is layered together to give a fluid, natural finish reminiscent of wood grain. The interconnected, two-tone effect is also a symbolic way to reflect the union of two lovers. “Mokume Gane is great for those wanting a two-tone ring with a difference,” Theochari says. Another departure from tradition is the preference for natural white gold without the classic rhodium plating. The natural grey colour of white gold makes for a more industrial looking piece that appeals to men, according to Theochari. It’s important for men’s engagement rings to look masculine and strong whilst still being opulent enough for such a grand commitment. The desired effect is often achieved through the finish of modern men’s engagement rings. Gone is the era where a polished gold band was all on offer. “Many men are choosing to have their ring in an emery or brushed finish, along with black rhodium plating in grooves and etchings on the ring,” Theochari reports. “The darker colour works well when combined with traditional coloured metals like white, rose or yellow gold.” “Over the years there has been an increase in men’s jewellery with diamonds but they often prefer a coloured diamond, such as blue, black or pink, compared to the more traditional white diamond,” he says.

“A person should not compromise on such an important purchase; generally, custom making a ring for them is the way to go,” he says. MDT’s sales of men’s engagement rings are higher than ever, further indicating men don’t want to miss out on the fun of selecting a beautiful engagement ring for themselves. “There has been a big increase in male engagement rings over the past few years and our stock is growing to keep up with the ideas and concepts that guys like,” Theochari says. “We now have a much larger collection compared to five years ago and, from this collection, our clients get ideas for us to custom design – every person is different and their jewellery should be too.” One popular trend in the category is Mokume Gane, an ancient Japanese technique blending both 18-carat white and yellow gold

Styles are getting fancier and more detailed but men are still consciously seeking timelessness also. “More men are liking the idea of customising their rings to be different to the more traditional styles while still combining traditional elements so it doesn’t look too crazy on their fingers in 50 years. An example is having a half-round, simple band with grooves running through the ring and a central diamond,” Theochari details. With good fortune, a men’s engagement ring will be worn throughout a lifetime to symbolise a strong, solid union. The ring should be reflective of this partnership, whilst also expressing the individuality of the wearer. It’s lucky then that modern couples have a bevy of creative customisation options right at their fingertips.

// INTELLIGENCE

YOUR “I DO” DIAMOND

Rings // De Klerk Jewellers

We navigate the rules of engagement to arm you on your search for the perfect ring.

THE FOUR CS Before you start out on your all-important search it’s imperative you familiarise yourselves with the Four Cs of diamond dealing. The quality over quantity principal also applies when putting a ring on it. For example, you could risk buying an enormous rock that may not have half the quality of a smaller one at the same price. So let’s cut to it! Colour: When it comes to colour, less is more and the whiter the diamond, the better. Most diamonds within a reasonable price will range from white to yellow. Determined through a range of alphabets D, E and F refer to colourless (white) diamonds, while G, H, I and J are nearly colourless according to the GIA colour grades. A perfect white diamond should be crystal clear – the less yellow or brown streaks visible the more rare and valuable a diamond is. Clarity: Clarity is the measure of the number of blemishes (external defects) and inclusions (internal defects) of a stone. An S11 or S12 diamond has inclusions or blemishes larger than a grain of salt when viewed under 10-power magnification. Whilst nearly all diamonds contain flaws, it’s important to determine there aren’t enough flaws to seriously lessen its value. Though on the positive, diamond flaws are as unique as a fingerprint and can be used as identifiers. Carat: A diamond’s weight is measured in carats (not to be confused with karat, which indicates gold’s purity). A carat is equivalent to a fifth of a gram or exactly 200 milligrams. They are weighed using a precision scale, as mere fractions of a carat can mean the difference between hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

Channel: A neat method of setting a collection of smaller diamonds into the band of the ring, creating a uniform flow of sparkle. Two metal support strips are also set flush with the stones, providing a smooth all-over surface that won’t catch or snag. Bar: A variation of the channel setting in which diamonds are held in place by tiny metal bars running perpendicular to the rings band. Bar settings protect the girdle of the stone but leave the top and bottom exposed to allow more light to enter. Flush: This setting generally involves a prominent centre stone with smaller diamonds embedded into the band (flush set) on either side. Tension: Contemporary in ring design, the stone appears to float. Instead of claws the entire ring acts as one large spring, holding the diamond in place and creating an unobstructed view of the stone. It allows maximum viewing, but is not as secure and should be regularly checked. Pavé: Tiny metal beads hold each stone in its own setting, literally paving the metal with small diamonds. Stones are cobbled into the surface of the ring band through a combination of tapered holes and/or tiny claws to hold the stones in place. Invisible: A variation on the bar setting, diamonds in an invisible setting are placed so tightly together no metal shows between them. The stones are actually cut to interlock with each other in a dazzling array of uniformity. Semi-mounting: If you already have a stone, semi-mounting is a great option. Semi-mounting can be purchased ready-made with a space for your stone.

Cut: The cut refers to the workmanship of a diamond and the manner in which it’s polished and shaped to give it its brilliance and fire. Not to be confused with a diamond’s shape, a stone’s cut or make refers to the number, placement and shape of the facets that create a finished diamond. A gem cutter sculpts the diamond’s many facets with geometric precision; symmetrically

METAL MATTERS

arranging them to affect the way light travels through the stone. A poorly cut diamond will ‘leak’ light out the back and some cutting ‘faults’ can even make a diamond prone to breaking.

strengthen it for daily wear; 18-karat white gold for example, contains 18-parts pure gold and six-parts alloy. Different alloys are used to achieve different gold colours and the greater percentage of alloy, the lower the gold’s karat. Platinum has also long been a popular choice. It’s extremely durable and especially pure, making it a great hypoallergenic choice for brides and grooms. Though it’s important to note platinum can be softer than 18-karat gold, which means it might require more attention due to general wear and tear. It’s recommended you have your wedding ring and engagement ring designed to complement each other. Opting for the same gold metal, and/or gold karat will not only ensure they match, but avoid having to tend to them down the track due to rubbing and ongoing wear and tear. It’s also worth noting metals wear differently, so you could end up with two very different looking rings in just a few years.

SET FOR SUCCESS A setting refers to way in which a stone is held in place within a ring. The best types of settings are those that secure your sparkler whilst maximising the entry of light into the diamond. Claw: Also known as prong, four to six metal claws are used to hold the stone in place. Claws can be thick or thin and are an excellent way to show off a diamond because they allow the entire gem to be seen and maximum light to shine through. Bezel: A bezel-set diamond is completely surrounded by a border of metal, framing the stone from the outside edge. The bezel is highly protective of the diamond’s girdle and more suitable for hard daily wear than more exposed settings.

When it comes to the wedding band you’ve got a variety of metals to choose from. Platinum is a popular choice, as is gold, which comes in a variety of colours, including white, yellow, rose and even green. The majority of fine wedding jewellery is made from 18-karat gold, which uses small amounts of gold alloy to

// INTELLIGENCE

WEDDING COLLECTIONS

Bridal Cuff // Minzenmays

6 wise tips to remember when selecting your wedding accessories.

DON’T UPSTAGE THE DRESS

Don’t get carried away with layers of extravagant

WORK WITH YOUR SKIN TONE Remember that different metals suit different skin

jewels, the focus should remain on your dress. Apply

tones. What looked amazing on your fair-toned friend

the advice of ‘less is more’ in this situation. Your

may not translate on an olive complexion. If you’re

accessories should complement your dress, not

not sure what works for your tone, ask a jeweller -

overpower it.

they have a wealth of experience and knowledge in

AVOID TRENDS

Circle this piece of advice and then go over it in

this area.

DON’T BUY ACCESSORIES BEFORE THE DRESS

This is a steadfast rule and should be strictly adhered

a fluorescent highlighter. When it comes to your wedding style, avoid trends. While it may seem enticing to copy the latest catwalk trends you need

to. Accessories are the icing on the cake, not the

to keep in mind that these are seasonal. What is on

entire cake! It’s impossible to know whether a single

trend in spring will be old news by summer. Your

strand of pearls or diamond drop earrings will work

wedding pictures will last a lifetime and you don’t

with your dress if you have no idea if it’ll be a high

want to cringe over your fashion choices for years to

neck or deep V neckline. To be safe, hold off on

come. Choose something that is flattering for your

accessories shopping until you’ve paid the deposit on

figure and is a classic style, that way you won’t be

your gown.

able to put a foot wrong.

THINK BEYOND THE BIG DAY

CONSIDER COLOURED ACCESSORIES

It’s easy to get swept up in neutral tones when it

for your wedding, try and think of it as a long-term

comes to your big day attire. Neutral tones go with

investment. Choose pieces that are true to your

everything, are timeless and look elegant. However

style so you’ll be happy to wear them again after the

they can also be limiting. Don’t pigeonhole yourself;

big day. If the idea of wearing your special wedding

give yourself a wide berth to include coloured

jewellery on a regular day doesn’t sit right with

accessories as well. After all, a sparkling sapphire

you, try saving them as sentimental pieces to wear

could be exactly what you need to enhance your eyes

on anniversaries.

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellers Image // Anthony Masci

If you’re going to purchase new accessories

or add life to your ivory gown.

// INTELLIGENCE

Necklace // Giulians

NATIONAL ICONS Show off your patriotic side in understated fashion with these Australian gems that have become national icons.

OPALS

LIGHTNING RIDGE BLACK OPALS

Proclaimed as Australia’s most famous gemstone, opal has long been admired throughout the ages – from ancient Romans to the Aztecs and the Arabs. Staking its position in the world from its discovery more than 2000 years ago, opal is the only gemstone in the world whose colour is created by refracted light, gifting it with seven colours of the rainbow. With its flashes of spectral colour and pattern, no two opals are ever alike. Similar to the rainbow colours on a soap bubble, its effect changes with the smallest rotation. Australia is one of the few places on earth where the unique combination of criteria is needed for opals to occur. Opal is generally found at depths between 10 to 30 meters below the surface in a layer of claystone or “opal dirt” immediately below a level of sandstone. Australia produces over 90% of the world’s supply of opal and approximately 99% of gem quality opal. Major Australian opal fields are located in Lightning Ridge and White Cliffs in New South Wales (black opal), Coober Pedy, Andamooka and Mintabie in South Australia (light opal) and various locations in Queensland which produce boulder opals.

Originally known as Wallangulla, Lightning Ridge just beyond the town of Walgett in northeast New South Wales is famed locality for the Black Opal which was first found in the area back in 1900 by boundary rider Jack Murray. So what is Black Opal? Black Opal is actually White Opal stuck to a black rock. The blackness from the black rock comes from seaweed, in particular the manganese contained in seaweed, which gives it its blue-black to dark grey body tone. Fine examples of this variety are the most expensive per carat and rival diamonds in price.

Ring // Jason Ree

This page: Clockwise from top Pearls // Catanach's Jewellers Rings // MDT Design

SOUTH SEA PEARLS Their large size, limited culturing area and extended growth period all combine to make South Sea pearls the rarest of all pearl types. Found in colours ranging from optic white to deep honey gold, these pearls are prized by collectors and designers alike. The lustre of South Sea pearls, whether white or golden, is soft and luxurious. Only a small percentage of South Sea pearls are spherical and as such, full strands of matched pearls are extremely rare. South Sea pearls are generally much larger than other pearl types and have a unique lustre quality – a soft reflection due to the large aragonite platelets that make up the pearl. These factors make South Sea pearls both distinctive and valuable. South Sea pearls have the highest value and command the highest prices of all types of pearls.

ARGYLE DIAMONDS Located in the remote Kimberley area of Western Australia, Rio Tinto’s Argyle Diamond mine produces many of the world’s diamonds with most of them ending up as centrepieces in fine jewellery. It is the only known significant source of pink diamonds in the world, producing over 90% of the world’s supply. Of the small percentage of gem quality diamonds produced by Argyle, none are more famous or prized than the pink diamonds. These pinks are exceptionally rare and fetch exceptionally high prices. To understand just how rare they are, consider the number of pink diamonds that the mine produced in 2007. Of the 18 million carats of diamonds that the mine produced that year, only 65 carats were of a quality, size and colour to be classified as signature pink. Rings // Catanach's Jewellers

Rings // Eternity Diamonds Image // Tandy Rowley

// INTELLIGENCE

MAINTAINING DIAMONDS You’ve finally invested in a gorgeous diamond and found a design that perfectly captures your personality and style. Make sure your diamond remains at its finest for years to come by following these steps.

THE BASICS: • Minimise handling – Your fingers provide enough oil from your skin to alter the way your diamond looks. If you need to handle your diamond, never pick it up by the stone as it can loosen the setting. • Implement a routine – It is important you clean your diamond regularly. Develop a simple plan that will be easy to maintain e.g. organise to soak your ring overnight 1-2 times a week. • Avoid harmful products – Chlorine or abrasives should never be used to clean your diamond as they erode some of the metals often used in diamond settings. • Visit your jeweller – Take your diamond in to be checked by an expert at least once a year. A jeweller will know what to look out for such as loose prongs and wear of mountings; they’ll also give your diamond a professional clean and shine.

TAKE IT OFF DURING HOUSEWORK: • Even though a diamond is hard, it isn’t strong and this means it is susceptible to chipping under hard blows. • Harsh cleaning products like chlorine bleach will cause damage and discolouring to your diamond.

STORAGE: • Single storage – Remember to store diamond pieces separately as diamonds can scratch and damage other items. • Special treatment – Keep your precious diamond jewellery in a fabric lined jewellery box or a compartmental case. If you don’t have access to one, wrap each piece individually in tissue paper and store them in individual boxes.

Necklace // Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

// INTELLIGENCE

UNIQUE BEAUTY OF COLOUR Bianca Mangion celebrates the unique beauty of coloured gemstone jewellery.

It begins with the staples that every woman must possess – a sizeable diamond ring (engagement or right hand); simple, elegant diamond studs; a gleaming, cultured pearl necklace; the solid gold bracelet or bangle – but no enviable jewellery collection is complete without a beautiful array of colouredstone pieces to match one’s mood, taste and whimsy. Often these jewels are reflective of the wearer’s unique personality and experiences, making them intensely personal purchases. With a deep appreciation of the joy that jewels can bring to their lives, passionate jewellery aficionados everywhere crave creations that vividly reflect their personal style, personality and life experiences, and nothing expresses individuality more than a precious piece crafted from coloured gemstones. Perhaps this is because coloured gems are available in

an astonishing spectrum of shades, each speaking to the uniqueness of a woman’s personality and each resonating with her accordingly. The colour itself is not important; colour reflects individuality. As Coco Chanel once said, “The best colour in the whole world is the one that looks good on you.” A woman classic in style will be most drawn to the calm clarity of aquamarine, the bold passion of ruby, the mysterious depth of sapphire, the elegant richness of emerald, the spirituality of amethyst, the sunny cheer of citrine, the energising freshness of peridot or the romantic femininity of pink topaz. Those who seek unconventional chic might desire the unrestrained merriment of opal, the wild earthiness of jasper, the honeyed sensuality of amber, the free spirit of turquoise or the soft sweetness of rose quartz.

Jewellery // Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

As Coco Chanel once said, “The best colour in the whole world is the one that looks good on you.

Mark Evans of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery in Maroochydore, Queensland suggests shoppers in search of coloured gemstone jewellery should undertake some research on the gems they fancy. “Whether it be tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds or rubies, there is a vast colour palate of natural and beautiful gemstones available so their choice has to be absolutely correct,” he says. “This means the design has to compliment the choice of gemstones to be used in the piece.” To own a coloured gemstone is to express a certain sense of confidence and self-assurance, a knowing of oneself and one’s place in the world. Possessing a precious, coloured-gemstone adornment also shows success. Like high fashion, precious jewellery expresses a woman’s excellent personal taste; however, it is often much dearer than even a couture garment. When a woman has the means to obtain investment pieces that deviate from the classics and instead select items that express a mood, style or aspect of her personality, it is clear her life is blessed with good fortune. For Evans, coloured stones are an integral part of his showcase and he acknowledges their fashion element: “Coloured gemstones have played a very important part of who we are as a business and of our profile within the jewellery industry in Australia. We constantly

review what’s trending in the Asian and European markets.” Evans predicts that Morganite will be very much on trend over the coming year but may only last another year or so as his clients shift attentions to other gemstones. Coloured stones come in an array of cuts and shapes – smooth and sensual like a cabochon; fun and flirty like a briolette; slender and elongated like a baguette; understatedly elegant like an emerald cut; soft yet bold like a cushion cut. Fusions of various cuts and colours create a story that sparks the imagination and entices the onlooker to learn more. Gems capture beauty as naturally as all women everywhere. As varied, vibrant and bright as a garden full of flowers, coloured gemstones also bare natural inclusions. What a superficial mind may perceive as an imperfection is actually yet another manifestation of individuality. Coloured stones remind us that nature’s beauty is all around. Beautiful women naturally want to surround themselves with this beauty and there’s no greater way than to wear it on their skin. They want others to know their beauty, to see it and then learn more about its richness. Above all, beauty is unique, which is why a woman’s desire to include a rich selection of coloured gemstones in her jewellery collection will always shine brightly.

// INTELLIGENCE

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE

Jewellery // Australian Chocolate Diamonds

DIAMONDS

Australian Chocolate Diamonds are a unique Australian treasure that holds the prestigious title of being an Argyle Diamond. These warm toned, vibrant pieces are suited to the creative, fashion forward consumer. They are brilliant; they are unique and they are attractively priced. No precious stone comes out of the ground perfectly formed. Invariably what enhances the worth of any gemstone is what is done to it once it is mined and brought to the house ultimately responsible for revealing its inner beauty. We know that diamonds achieving the highest grade are those that adhere to what are traditionally known as the Four C’s – Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat. At Australian Chocolate Diamonds, we add a fifth “C” to the paradigm: Craftsmanship. It is born out of years of research, expert mentorship, mining the rarest stones and establishing relationships with the finest stonecutters in the world. Having cultivated the craft to an art form, we are proud to introduce you to the beauty and perfection of the Australian Chocolate Diamond – coveted but also unique and individualised in ways that set the ACD brand apart. Precision cut by our cutting team, our diamonds are cut to exact specifications to ensure maximum brilliance and scintillation in every piece. Australian Chocolate Diamonds are guaranteed to come straight from the source – directly from the red earth of the Argyle Mine in the Kimberley Region of Western Australia. As the world’s largest supplier of natural coloured diamonds, the Argyle Mines are renowned for producing elegant champagne and signature pink diamonds. The Argyle mine is closing in 2020 and make Australian Chocolate Diamonds and exclusive product. Australian Chocolate Diamonds are sure to be a stunning statement amongst an array of pieces. With the confidence of independent grading and absolute integrity that goes into every

piece, you will be assured in the knowledge that your diamond has been certified and laser inscribed for added security. The ‘My Diamond Story’ allows your Australian Chocolate Diamond to provide its own genealogy and chain of origin by recording each step of its journey to you. This even includes the lot number given to the parcel from which it was originally sorted by the Argyle office. These lot numbers give us a guide to the colour, size and also quality of the parcel. This certificate includes the rough weight, the stone’s original weight from the mine before any cutting took place. It also gives you the colour (graded from C1 to C7, where C1 is the lightest through to a deep chocolate colour of C7) as well as the clarity, which follows the GIA grading system. Australian Chocolate Diamonds are the perfect choice for consumers looking to offset a beautiful chocolate diamond with traditional ‘whites’. Rose or yellow, white or platinum – the rich beauty of the settings compliment and bring to life the warm colour palette of each unique Australian Chocolate Diamond. They truly are a ‘designer heaven’ – conjuring a modern collection of jewellery design for the creative and fashion forward, luxury consumer. Today people expect more from their jewellery than just great design, they are looking for presentations that are both unique and intrinsically exceptional – ones that engender a kind of emotional alchemy that only the finest of stones can inspire. Be proud in owning your very own unique and stunning piece of Australia’s natural beauty. Australian Chocolate Diamonds www.acdiamonds.com.au info@acdiamonds.com.au Phone: +61 7 3205 0303

// INTELLIGENCE

BIRON LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS THE FUTURE OF DIAMONDS

Jewellery // Australian Chocolate Diamonds

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds are grown in highly controlled laboratory conditions that simulate the natural growing process which occurs deep within the Earth’s mantle. The result is a diamond that is physically, optically and chemically identical to a natural or mined diamond. Laboratory grown diamonds are real diamonds! As it is grown in a controlled environment, every stage of the development can be controlled and manipulated, allowing the Lab to determine size, clarity and even the colour (to an extent) of the finished stone. Part of the growing process involves adding impurities into the growth chamber, like Nitrogen or Boron, both of these are also found in mined diamonds. An advantage of Laboratory Grown Diamonds is the speed of creation. We have all heard the saying “a diamond is a million years in creation”, however, using the latest technology we have brought this down to just 6 weeks. From here the crystal is sent to our cutting factory to go from a rough diamond to a scintillating polished diamond ready for your stunning piece of jewellery, without ever digging into the Earth! Laboratory Grown Diamonds VS Simulants – Diamond simulants such as Cubic Zirconia and Moissanite may look similar to diamonds, but that’s where it ends. They do not have the same chemical and physical properties, meaning that the refractive index is different and the hardness is different. These stones are designed to give you a cheaper alternative to a diamond, however, both are relatively easy to distinguish from diamonds. A Biron Laboratory Grown Diamond

is simply a diamond that has been grown in a laboratory; it will test as a diamond on a traditional diamond probe. Even using the latest probes you are testing to see if it’s a created diamond by testing to see if it’s a Type IIA diamond (as all created diamonds will test as Type IIA). In nature Type IIA diamonds are very rare and also colourless or near colourless warranting a premium price. It takes much more than a skilled eye to identify a Biron diamond from a mined diamond. Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds are available from 1mm up to 3.00ct+ in a variety of different colours. In our white series our grades are D-I in colour and VVS to SI2 in clarity. One of the wonders of Biron diamonds is the vibrant colours that can be achieved at an economical price. The main colours we produce are yellow and blue. Get your dream ring sooner! Whilst the equipment involved to create the diamonds is expensive, it is relatively small when compared to the costs associated with mining. You can expect to pay half the price for a white diamond equivalent, a third of the price for a yellow and less than a tenth for a pink or blue diamond. Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds www.biron.com.au info@biron.com.au Phone: 1800 383 764

// DESIGN AWARDS

THE 3RD ANNUAL AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS WERE LAUNCHED IN 2017 AND THIS UNIQUE NEW NATIONAL COMPETITION IS OPEN TO ALL AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERS. ALL ENTRIES ARE REQUIRED TO BE ORIGINAL PIECES OF AUSTRALIAN-MADE AND DESIGNED JEWELLERY. IN OUR INAUGURAL YEAR WE WERE VERY PLEASED TO RECEIVE A TOTAL OF SIXTY ENTRIES FROM ACROSS AUSTRALIA, AND THE DIVERSITY IN DESIGN WAS A DIAMOND DEALER’S DELIGHT. LAST YEARS ENTRIES RAN THE FULL GAMUT OF ARTISTRY AND CREATIVITY, HIGHLIGHTING NOT ONLY TECHNICAL PRECISION AND ADHERENCE TO DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS BUT ALSO DELVING DEEPLY INTO THE IMAGINATION AND INVENTIVENESS WE’VE COME TO EXPECT FROM AUSTRALIA’S WORLD-CLASS JEWELLERY DESIGN INDUSTRY. IN THE JUDGING FOR THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS, INNOVATION IS ESSENTIAL, AND OUR PANEL OF HIGHLY EXPERIENCED JUDGES ASSESS ALL PIECES BASED UPON FIVE CRITERIA: ORIGINALITY, DESIGN, COMPLEXITY, WEARABILITY AND IMPACT FOR OUR 3RD ANNUAL AWARDS WE ARE VERY PLEASED TO WELCOME THE FOLLOWING HIGHLY EXPERIENCED JEWELLERS WHO WILL JUDGE OUR MANY EXCEPTIONAL ENTRIES.

THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS JUDGING PANEL GUY ABRAHAMSON - JWG BRETT LOW - DEER HONEY JEWELLERY ROBERT PAUL - ROBERT PAUL JEWELLERY SIMON WEST - SIMON WEST FINE JEWELLERY JANINE COOMBES - JANINE COOMBES JEWELLERY BENITA EDWARDS - BENITA EDWARDS DESIGN JUSTIN LINNEY - LINNEYS JEWELLERS CAMERON ROBINSON – BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Members of the judging panel are eligible to submit entries into the Australian Jewellery Design Awards, however members of our panel do not judge their own entries.

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS MAJOR SPONSORS AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS BIRON LABORATORIES GROWN DIAMONDS FINE JEWELLERY IMAGES GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION OF AUSTRALIA THE GOLD & SILVERSMITH GUILD OF AUSTRALIA

PARTY GIRL THE OUTRIGHT WINNER

THE DESIGN AWARDS

WWW.MEDIAINK.COM.AU

CREATIONS JEWELLERS

56 STUNNING

WINS THE 3RD AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

WINNING ENTRY “PARTY GIRL”

AWARD SUBMISSIONS

THE RING THING

METAL WORK

YOUR “I DO” DIAMONDS

DECLARING A UNION IN STYLE FOR ALL AWARD WINNERS WWW.MEDIAINK.COM.AU

COVER // CREATIONS JEWELLERS - FINE JEWELLERY IMAGES

Jewellery Magazine is very pleased to announce that Creations Jewellers is the outright winner of the Third Australian Jewellery Design Awards. The winning submission Party Girl is described as “wrapped in a neat diamond package are streamers of platinum and ribbons of gold, the perfect ingredients for a pink and white diamond party”. This exceptional handmade piece was designed by Ben Preston-Black of Creations Jewellers of Manuka, Canberra. 55

THE 3 AUSTRALIAN

// DESIGN AWARDS

JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL OF OUR CATEGORY WINNERS

CREATIONS JEWELLERS Ben Preston-Black

MDT DESIGN Nicholas Theochari

CATEGORY: PINK DIAMONDS

CATEGORY: ALL RINGS (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: Party Girl Design: Handmade Value: POA

Design: Handmade

DANNY LEE DESIGNS

ALLIAM JEWELLERY

CATEGORY: ALL RINGS (UP TO $5,000)

CATEGORY: OPALS (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: St. Valentine

Piece name: Phoenix

Design: Handmade

Design: CAD Assist

Value: $4,250

Value: $20,000

ASHA JEWELRY CATEGORY: ART PIECE (UP TO $5,000) Piece name: Tree of Life Night & Day

Piece name: Xenya Value: $62,800

DESIGNER JEWELLER MACKAY

Anthony Galea

CATEGORY: ART PIECE (OVER $5,000) Piece name: DÃ©licieux

Design: Handmade

Value: POA

Value: $28,000

DESMA DESIGNS JEWELLERY Desma Noble

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP

CATEGORY: EARRINGS (UP TO $5,000)

CATEGORY: EARRINGS (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: Ribbons of Glory

Piece name: Morganite Earrings

Design: Handmade

Value: $4,900

Value: $9,900

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP

BEN WILDEN JEWELLERY

CATEGORY: ACCESSORIES (OVER $5,000)

CATEGORY: ENGAGEMENT RINGS (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: Pink Diamond Tennis Bracelet

Piece name: Flower in Bloom

Design: CAD Assist

Value: $15,500

Value: $29,000

Ben Wilden

Design: Handmade

BENJAMIN RYAN JEWELLERY

CATEGORY: PEARLS (OVER $5,000)

CATEGORY: COLOURED STONES (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: Blue Wave

Piece name: Suspension in Green

Benjamin Ryan

Design: Handmade

Benjamin Ryan

Value: $8,400

Design: Handmade

CREATIONS JEWELLERS Ben Preston-Black

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

CATEGORY:SILVER (UP TO $5,000)

CATEGORY: PENDANTS (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: The Lagoon Necklace Design: Handmade Value: $2,990

Value: $12,500

Nick De Klerk

Piece name: Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Design: Handmade Value: $16,750

ERIN PEARCE

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY

CATEGORY: APPRENTICE

CATEGORY: DIRECTORS CUT AWARD

Piece name: Australian Sapphire Drop Pendant

Piece name: Onyx Pendant

Design: Handmade

Value: $8,650

Value: POA

GERARD MCCABE JEWELLERS

DIAMOND WORLD FINE JEWELLERY Jim Chohaili

CATEGORY: PRECIOUS METALS AWARD Piece name: Golden Eagle Diamond Ring Design: CAD Assist Value: $29,995

CATEGORY: THE ARGYLE AWARD Piece name: Zivar Design: Handmade Value: $325,500

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS CATEGORY: PEOPLES CHOICE DIAMOND AWARD Piece name: Commitment Design: Handmade Value: $240,000 57

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

CAGED COLLECTION CATEGORY: Opals (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAAD Assist | VALUE: Approx $9,000 Ring 18KW gold, .83ct diamonds, .55ct solid black opal

ALLIAM JEWELLERY P: 0427 485 327 E: sales@alliamjewellery.com.au alliamjewellery.com.au 59

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

PHOENIX CATEGORY: Opals (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAAD Assist | VALUE: Approx $20,000 Pendant,18KW gold, 1.41ct of diamonds, 4.4ct of solid black opal

ALLIAM JEWELLERY P: 0427 485 327 E: sales@alliamjewellery.com.au alliamjewellery.com.au 61

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

TREE OF LIFE, DAY & NIGHT CATEGORY: Art Piece (under $500) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA I was a textile designer in South Korea and migrated to South Australia in 2007. I was inspired to start creating botanical jewelry because I wanted to make something wearable from the nature around me. The Tree of Life, Day and Night was created from the Australian nature in the environment around where I live. The Tree of the Day was inspired by what I felt under a tree as the sunshine beamed through the tree like a sun catcher, it was made with a clear transparent background. The Tree of the Night was made to create the feel of being illuminated during the night, it was created with a dark opaque background. The Bursaria Spinosa flower, also known as the Christmas bush, is native to Australia and was preserved by using methods such as pressing and tinting techniques. Parts of the flower were taken and rearranged to make a tree shape and was then encased in resin. Using hand-shaped mother-of-pearl leaves, an elegant glow was created throughout the tree. Rhodium plated sterling silver frame 3.75 g, 28.5 mm diameter, Epoxy resin.

ASHA JEWELRY RACHEL JANG ( HAE-YOUNG JANG)

Shop 125, Level 1, Myer Centre, Rundle Mall, Adelaide, SA 5000 P: (08) 8410-6995 E: rachel@ashajewelry.com.au ashajewelry.com.au 63

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

DAZZLE ‘n’ DAZE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD assisted - hand set and hand finished | VALUE: $190,000 This stunning Australian Chocolate Diamond 18ct white and rose gold ring features a cushion cut C5 SI1 5.03ct centre stone claw set in rose gold, surrounded by 30 x grain set round brilliant cut diamonds and finished off with 12 x pear cut diamonds and 12 x baguette cut diamonds. The crossover band features grain set round brilliant cut diamonds meeting a ring of 14 x round brilliant cut Australian Chocolate Diamonds under the setting. Total diamond weight is 8.16ct.

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS E: info@acdiamonds.com.au acdiamonds.com.au

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

POETRY IN MOTION CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD assisted - hand set and hand finished | VALUE: $58,000 This gorgeous Australian Chocolate Diamond 18ct white and rose gold ring features a round brilliant cut C5 SI1 2.5ct centre stone claw set in rose gold surrounded by 22 x claw set round brilliant cut diamonds with a fan of 14 x claw set marquise cut diamonds. The band features 2 rows of grain set round brilliant cut diamonds. Total diamond weight 4.88ct.

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS E: info@acdiamonds.com.au acdiamonds.com.au

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

FLOWER IN BLOOM CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $15,500

Inspired by a flower, this handmade platinum ring features an Australian sapphire as its centrepiece. The organic shape of the band flows upwards, sprouting leaves and finally displaying the full bloom of the sapphire. In a hidden compartment beneath the sapphire, there are six tiny tritium-filled glass vials that, in extreme darkness, will emit a soft blue glow. The basket that houses the delicate vials can be removed by unscrewing the base of the setting. This unique, yet practical design allows for safe cleaning of the ring or replacement of the vials as required and ultimately ensures the highest quality of this fine jewellery will be enjoyed for generations to come.

BEN WILDEN JEWELLERY BEN WILDEN

P: 0407 542 093 ben@benwildenjewellery.com ben@benwildenjewellery.com

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

NETTED LUSTRE CATEGORY: Pearls (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $8,650

White gold and Rose gold dress ring. Featuring a 12.8mm round South Sea Pearl and channel set Pink Sapphire round brilliant cut stones. Inspired by the nets that oysters are grown in.

BENJAMIN RYAN JEWELLERY BENJAMIN RYAN

Shop 2, Capitol Arcade, 85-87 Argyle Street, Camden NSW 2570 P: (02) 4655 6664 E: info@benjaminryanjewellery.com.au benjaminryanjewellery.com.au 71

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

BLUE WAVE CATEGORY: Pearls (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $8,400

18ct Yellow gold and Sterling Silver dress ring. Featuring a South Sea Circle Pearl and full pave set Blue Topaz round brilliant cut stones.

BENJAMIN RYAN JEWELLERY BENJAMIN RYAN

Shop 2, Capitol Arcade, 85-87 Argyle Street, Camden NSW 2570 P: (02) 4655 6664 E: info@benjaminryanjewellery.com.au benjaminryanjewellery.com.au 73

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SUSPENSION IN GREEN CATEGORY: Coloured Stones (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $12,500

18ct Yellow gold and White gold dress ring. Featuring a Green Tourmaline with Black and White round brilliant cut diamonds bead set.

BENJAMIN RYAN JEWELLERY BENJAMIN RYAN

Shop 2, Capitol Arcade, 85-87 Argyle Street, Camden NSW 2570 P: (02) 4655 6664 E: info@benjaminryanjewellery.com.au benjaminryanjewellery.com.au 75

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

CHERISH THE MOMENT CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD assisted - hand set and hand finished | VALUE: $11,585 This Biron Laboratory Grown Diamond 18ct yellow and white gold ring features a Princess cut 0.94ct claw set centre stone surrounded with a bezel of grain set round brilliant cut diamonds. Each shoulder features a fancy yellow. The band is split into 3 with white gold in the centre, grain set with round brilliant cut diamonds, on either side is a yellow gold band meeting the centre setting in a point and grain set with round brilliant cut diamonds on the sides. Total diamond weight 1.98ct.

BIRON LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS E: info@biron.com.au biron.com.au

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

RISING STAR CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD assisted - hand set and hand finished | VALUE: $45,198 This 18ct white and rose gold Biron Laboratory Grown Diamond ring features a radiant cut 2.02ct centre stone with a fan of 8 x pear shape diamonds surrounding, then bordered with grain set round brilliant cut diamonds. The split band is set with 2 rows of grain set round brilliant cut diamonds. Total diamond weight is 3.76ct.

BIRON LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS E: info@biron.com.au biron.com.au

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE KUPARR BANGLE CATEGORY: Pink Diamonds

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $1,200,000

One only handmade platinum Argyle Pink diamond bangle. The flat style bangle features a total 3 round brilliant cut natural Argyle Pink Diamonds set in a floating buckle design. 1 x 0.51mct 1PP SI Argyle 1 x 0.50 mct 3PP SI1 Argyle 1 x 0.31mct 3PP SI2 Argyle The bangle measures 9mm wide x 2mm deep and has a total weight of 70.07grams.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village, 83 Methyr Road, New Farm 4005 P: (07) 3254 4444 E: sale@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 81

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SUN AND SKY CATEGORY: Coloured Stones (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $34,000

One only handmade 18ct yellow and platinum set 0.52ct Fancy Vivid Ellendale Yellow Radiant cut Diamond. The diamond is VVS1 Set either side are a total of two pear shaped natural Argyle Blue diamonds BL2 in colour with a combined weight of 0.40mct.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village, 83 Methyr Road, New Farm 4005 P: (07) 3254 4444 E: sale@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 83

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

RUBY TUESDAY CATEGORY: Coloured Stones (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $110,000

One only 18ct white gold natural ruby and diamond ring. The ring features a central set oval cut natural Burmese ruby with a weight of 3.96mct. Grain set around the ruby are a total of 26 round brilliant cut diamonds with a combined weight of 0.22mct.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village, 83 Methyr Road, New Farm 4005 P: (07) 3254 4444 E: sale@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 85

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

COMMITMENT CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $240,000

One only handmade Platinum diamond set ring. The ring features a central 6 claw set round brilliant cut diamond -10.86 x 6.1mm with a weight of 4.18mct, H in colour with a VVS1 clarity round brilliant cut diamond. 24 round brilliant cut diamonds are also featured in the shoulders with a combined weight of 1.10mct. The ring measures 9.93mm at the base of the collet and tapers to 8.13mm at the base of the shank. This ring has a total weight of 17.53g.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village, 83 Methyr Road, New Farm 4005 P: (07) 3254 4444 E: sale@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 87

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE LAGOON NECKLACE CATEGORY: Silver | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $2,990 Inspired by the vast interconnecting lagoons of Australia, these contemporary and organic shapes along with South Sea pearls feature the best Australia has to offer in nature and in design.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: (02) 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 89

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE ORBIT RING CATEGORY: Pearls (Over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,790 A ribbon of claw set diamonds in yellow gold orbiting around an Australian South Sea pearl. The Orbit ring is made from one continuous ribbon of gold.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: (02) 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 91

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

REFLECTIONS CATEGORY: Coloured Stones (Over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $8,990 Repeating lines in platinum, gold and diamonds reflect the teal waters of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deep oceans.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: (02) 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 93

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

PARTY GIRL CATEGORY: Pink Diamonds | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA Wrapped in a neat diamond package are streamers of platinum and ribbons of gold, the perfect ingredients for a pink and white diamond party!

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: (02) 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 95

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MARQUISE MAGIC CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA A sculptural feast of flowing lines create a sense of movement, encapsulating the magic of the marquise diamond.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: (02) 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 97

// DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

JEULES DE JUBILEE CATEGORY: All Rings (Over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $50,000 A show stopping certified “raspberry red” natural rubellite tourmaline weighing 15.57ct, accompanied by a matching pair of half-moon diamonds equaling 1.34ct F SI. This exceptional piece is crafted in platinum.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn VIC 3104 P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com dannyleedesigns.com 99

// DESIGN AWARDS

100

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MARQUISE CATEGORY: All Rings (Over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,500 One marquise cut diamond = 0.13ct complimented by four round brilliant cut diamonds = 0.14ct, four marquise cut diamonds = 0.17ct. Additionally the Marquise features two tapered baguette cut diamonds = 0.22ct and 24 round brilliant cut diamonds = 0.08ct. Total diamond weight 0.74ct F SI. 18ct yellow and white gold.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn VIC 3104 P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com dannyleedesigns.com 101

// DESIGN AWARDS

102

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE ART DECO CATEGORY: All Rings (Under $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $2,700 18ct yellow and white gold art deco influenced ring features 1 round brilliant cut diamond = 0.13ct, 2 round brilliant cut diamonds = 0.12ct, together with a total of 24 round brilliant cut diamonds = 0.20ct. Total diamond weight = 0.45ct F SI.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn VIC 3104 P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com dannyleedesigns.com 103

// DESIGN AWARDS

104

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE DALHEIMER CATEGORY: All Rings (Over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $7,500 A stunning piece that features a rare Australian hand cut chrome tourmaline weighing 3.60ct.This unique and exceptional stone was hand cut in Melbourne. The rich forest green tones of the tourmaline are brilliantly complimented by a double halo of 82 diamonds equaling 1.07ct F VS.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn VIC 3104 P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com dannyleedesigns.com 105

// DESIGN AWARDS

106

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ST. VALENTINE CATEGORY: All Rings (Under $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $4,250 The St Valentine cocktail ring features a one of a kind vivid purple amethyst weighing 9.01ct. A unique piece set in 18ct white gold with 64 round brilliant cut diamonds = 0.78ct F VS.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn VIC 3104 P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com dannyleedesigns.com 107

// DESIGN AWARDS

108

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PENDANT CATEGORY: Pendants (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $16,750

An 18ct white and rose gold handmade pendant. This exceptional piece incorporates three generations of family diamonds and sapphires and was designed to be first worn by our client at her sons wedding.

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

NICK DE KLERK

3/47 Neridah Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com deklerkjewellers.com.au 109

// DESIGN AWARDS

110

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SAPPHIRE AND PEARL RING CATEGORY: Coloured Stones (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $15.875

An 18ct white gold handmade dress ring, showcasing the 2.27ct Ceylon sapphire and Tahitian pearl, each given to the client by her respective parents. The sapphire is offset with pave diamonds and the basket is finished with a single ribbon of milgrain to denote the French heritage.

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

NICK DE KLERK

3/47 Neridah Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com deklerkjewellers.com.au 111

// DESIGN AWARDS

112

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

OPAL AND CLOISONNÉ DRESS RING CATEGORY: Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $12,850

Handmade 18ct yellow gold dress ring set with an Australian black opal surrounded with Cloisonné enamel.

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

NICK DE KLERK

3/47 Neridah Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com deklerkjewellers.com.au 113

// DESIGN AWARDS

114

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

DÉLICIEUX CATEGORY: Art piece (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: Approx $28,000 Handmade 18ct multi coloured (White, Yellow & Pink) gold dress ring, bezel set with a combination of white, champagne round Brilliant & Fancy Cut Diamonds. Pave’ set Brilliant Cut Diamonds scattered down sides of band. Diamonds weighing 3.94cts in total. Designed in an elegant abstract style, worn for that special occasion. Stones Set By Paul George Rutt Designed & Made By Anthony Galea

DESIGNER JEWELLER MACKAY 36 Victoria Street Mackay QLD 4740 P: 0419 208 665 E: info@designerjeweller.com.au designerjeweller.com.au 115

// DESIGN AWARDS

116

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

RIBBONS OF GLORY CATEGORY: Earrings (up to $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $4,900

Earrings handmade with ribbons of titanium, anodised and trimmed with 18ct yellow gold, completed with south sea pearl drops.

DESMA DESIGNS JEWELLERY DESMA NOBLE

Suite 4 Level 1, 30 McAdam Square Croydon Hills, Vic 3136 P: (03) 8719 6348 M: 0407 888 932 E: desma@desmadesigns.com.au desmadesigns.com.au 117

// DESIGN AWARDS

118

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ZIVAR CATEGORY: Pink Diamond | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $325,500 Master Jeweller of Diamond World Fine Jewellery, Jim Chohaili, searched for 8 years to find the perfect Pink Argyle Diamonds to incorporate into his original design. Each diamond was sourced from around the world and handpicked for its exquisite quality. This exclusive piece is handmade with Platinum and 18ct Rose Gold featuring an Emerald Cut centre diamond. The centre stone is surrounded by a halo of Round Brilliant Cut Pink Argyle Diamonds and gives this unique ring dimension and character. The second halo is set with a selection of Oval, Round and Emerald Cut Diamonds adding a vintage touch to the dress ring. Eight very rare Oval Cut Pink Argyle Diamonds are set into the band surrounded by Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds! After it was completed, we were stunned by its unique beauty, we had to call the ring Zivar after the Persian word for Jewel. This one-of-a-kind-diamond and Pink Argyle Diamond ring totals in 5.23 carats and has become the signature ring of Diamond World Fine Jewellery.

DIAMOND WORLD FINE JEWELLERY JIM CHOHAILI

Shop 61, Narellan Town Centre, 326 Camden Valley Way, Narellan NSW 2567 P: (02) 4648 2944 diamondworldfinejewellery.com.au Instagram.com/diamondworldfinejewellery 119

// DESIGN AWARDS

120

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN SAPPHIRE DROP PENDANT CATEGORY: Apprentice | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $8,650 9ct Yellow Gold hollow formed drop pendant featuring a range of unique Australian Sapphires.

ERIN PEARCE Sydney NSW 2000 P: 0407 203 209 E: millfoundry@gmail.com Instagram.com/millfoundry 121

// DESIGN AWARDS

122

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

REGAL EXPRESS CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD assisted - hand set and hand finished | VALUE: $175,000 This bold yellow and white gold ring features a 4.45ct claw set natural Colombian Emerald in the centre surrounded by 20 x yellow round brilliant cut diamonds with a scalloped edging, this is framed by a border of grain set round brilliant cut diamonds. The spit yellow gold band features grain set round brilliant cut diamonds meeting a pear shaped white gold setting featured on both shoulders. Total diamond weight 0.93ct.

FINE GEMS DEE BOLTON

123

// DESIGN AWARDS

124

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

LA MARIJA CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $40,000 18ct ring set with white, pink and black diamonds

FINELINES JEWELLERS BEN TRACY

Shop 1 & 2/26 Commerce Drive, Robina, QLD 4226 P: (07) 5562 0222 E: info@finelinesjewellers.com.au finelinesjewellers.com.au 125

// DESIGN AWARDS

126

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

EAGLE RING CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $29,995 Gerard McCabe invites you to take flight, soar above and be courageous. The Eagle Ring represents the essence of the impressive bird through every detail. The combination of rare pink and white diamonds create a magnificent central feature, further complemented by the rose gold undercarriage and fine detail within. It is this pairing of white and pink diamonds that mimics the bird in flight. The Eagle Ring features a centre 1.18ct round brilliant diamond, certified by Gerard McCabe for authenticity.

GERARD MCCABE JEWELLERS Shop 2 Adelaide Arcade & 50 Rundle Mall, Rundle Mall Plaza, Adelaide SA 5000 1/318-322 Little Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 E: adelaidearcade@gerardmccabe.com.au, rundlemall@gerardmccabe.com.au or littlecollins@gerardmccabe.com.au gerardmccabe.com.au 127

// DESIGN AWARDS

128

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

EAGLE OPAL DOUBLET PENDANT/BROOCH CATEGORY: Opals (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $16,995 Gerard McCabe’s Eagle Collection takes inspiration from the spirit of its namesake, its symbolism in cultures and its masterful presence. Discover the fine details and fall in love with this Pendant/Brooch. The piece features a 19.45ct repurposed 1950’s opal doublet radiating a fine full spectral exchange. Crafted in 18ct yellow and white gold, the magnificent colours of the opal doublet are beautifully complemented by the variety of Australian natural fancy coloured diamonds. .

// DESIGN AWARDS

130

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

GOLDEN EAGLE DIAMOND RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $29,995 Gerard McCabe’s Eagle Collection takes inspiration from its namesake and represents the essence of the impressive bird through every detail. Crafted in 18ct white and yellow gold, this Golden Eagle Diamond Ring features a magnificent 1.01ct pear cut diamond, further complemented by the collection of natural Australian fancy coloured diamonds. The central diamond is independently certified. This ring incorporates the famous characteristics of the Eagle, with the natural coloured diamonds representing wings and feathers. The eagle in this design sits proud and tall, observing all of life’s beauties and challenges. .

// DESIGN AWARDS

132

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MORGANITE EARRINGS CATEGORY: Earrings (over $5000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $9.900 18K Rose Gold Briolette Morganite & Diamond Earrings (67RBC=0.70ct) (Morganites 15x11mm)

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTMANSHIP P: (03) 9866 4983 E: sales@iansharp.com.au iansharp.com.au

133

// DESIGN AWARDS

134

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

PINK DIAMOND TENNIS BRACELET CATEGORY: Accessories (over $5000) | DESIGN: Cad Assist | VALUE: $29.000 18K Rose & White Gold Pink & White Diamond Tennis Bracelet (8RBC=0.65CT and 45RBC=1.25CT (FP/SI Argyle).

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTMANSHIP P: (03) 9866 4983 E: sales@iansharp.com.au iansharp.com.au

135

// DESIGN AWARDS

136

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

PINK DIAMOND RING CATEGORY: Pink Diamond | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $13,500 18K Rose Gold Pink Diamond and White Diamond Ring (9RBC=0.80CT and 39RBC Pink = 0.30CT FP/SI Argyle)

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTMANSHIP P: (03) 9866 4983 E: sales@iansharp.com.au iansharp.com.au

137

// DESIGN AWARDS

138

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

AUSTRALIAN SUNSET CATEGORY: Pendant (over $5000) | DESIGN: Cad Assist | VALUE: POA Nick Campione of iJewels is a Master Setter of over 40 years experience. He loves to work with rare coloured gems and design jewellery pieces for clients who appreciate the truly rare and creative and unique. We have named this pendant ‘Australian Sunset’ as our client is a lady who loves to watch the sunset each evening over the Australian landscape, and see the colours of the sunset evoked in her pendant. This is a bespoke pendant of rare gem Sphalerites and diamonds. The combination and spectrum of colours of Sphalerites in this piece results in an extremely rare work of art. This bespoke pendant features 6 octagon cut Sphalerites of 7.42 carats in total weight. Each Sphalerite is 4 claw set in 18 carat yellow gold. The pendant is graduated from dark reddish orange to greenish yellow in colour showing the range of colours of Sphalerite. This is a gem which is rarely set and will only be undertaken by a Master Setter due to its Moh’s Scale hardness of 3.5 to 4, perfect cleavage and extreme brittleness! However, with a dispersion three times higher than Diamond it sparkles and scintillates with fire and beauty. A round brilliant cut diamond is set between each Sphalerite with a total combined diamond weight of 0.25 carats, SI1 in clarity and F in colour. The pendant is 7.05 grams in weight. Photography by Jenny Zhang

iJEWELS Room 316, Level 3, Manchester Unity Building 220 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: 0403 809 137 E: ijewels@outlook.com 139

// DESIGN AWARDS

140

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

GOLDEN HEART OF AUSTRALIA CATEGORY: All rings (over $5000) | DESIGN: Cad Assist | VALUE: POA Nick Campione of iJewels, a Master Setter with over 40 years experience, loves to work with coloured gems and design and create beautiful bespoke pieces for clients who desire unique and stunning jewels. This ring was created for an Australian client who lives overseas and wanted a reminder of the golden colours of Australia: from the golden wattle trees which bloom in spring alongside the fields of golden canola crops to the golden beaches and sunsets of her Southern home to the vast golden heart of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Outback. This bespoke ring features Citrines and Diamonds set in 18 carat yellow gold. The centre gem is a stunning 18.00 carat pear cut deep medium golden orange Citrine surrounded by a double halo of 81 round brilliant cut diamonds with a total combined weight of 1.00 carats, SI1 in clarity and F in colour. Set underneath the main gem are 17 pear cut medium golden orange citrines with a total combined weight of 10.00 carats. The total weight of the ring is 16.01 grams. Photography by Jenny Zhang

iJEWELS Room 316, Level 3, Manchester Unity Building 220 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: 0403 809 137 E: ijewels@outlook.com 141

// DESIGN AWARDS

142

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MERAKI CATEGORY: Apprentice | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $600 “Meraki” cufflinks made with Sterling silver. Inspired by the Greek god of Metalworking “Hephaestus” and my Greek master.

LEE BON JEWELLERY REBECCA LEE BON

P: 0422 701 565 E: rebeccalbon@hotmail.com Instagram.com/leebonjewellery

143

// DESIGN AWARDS

144

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

CRESCENT MOON CATEGORY: Pearls (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade CAD Assist | VALUE: $9,480 Encapsulated in 18ct rose gold, this Australian South Sea Pearl and Kimberley champagne diamond piece is inspired by the harmonious forces of nature. The gravitational pull of the full moon draws the lapping high tide, an act of immense, raw power.

MAGNOLIA DESIGNS MAGNOLIA HOWARD

PO Box 1571, Broome WA 6725 P: 0427 981 729 E: magnolia@magnoliahoward.com www.magnoliahoward.com 145

// DESIGN AWARDS

146

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

DRESS RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000 | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA A Left:18ct white gold dress ring, featuring Pavè set Pink Sapphires, and Pavè set Black Diamonds, with two rows of accent White Diamonds Rght: 9ct white gold ring, featuring a cabochon Onyx in the centre, surrounded by Pavè set Pink Sapphires and Back Diamonds

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY MARK EVANS

69 Sugar Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au markevansfinejewellery.com.au 147

// DESIGN AWARDS

148

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ONYX PENDANT CATEGORY: Pendants (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA 9ct White gold heart shape pendant, featuring a heart shape Onyx, Pavá¿¯e set Pink Sapphires, and a trail of White Diamonds

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY MARK EVANS

69 Sugar Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au markevansfinejewellery.com.au 149

// DESIGN AWARDS

150

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ÉLÉGANCE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA

18ct White gold and 18ct Rose gold dress ring, featuring a pear shape Morganite surrounded by G colour Vs1 clarity Diamonds. This exquisite piece has been designed for occasions that would call for a dress or cocktail ring to be worn.

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY MARK EVANS

69 Sugar Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au markevansfinejewellery.com.au 151

// DESIGN AWARDS

152

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

“DOS AMIGOS” CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $22,570

Hand made 18RG Plat concave bevel edge ring set with .65 FVS2 Arg GIA 2166782399 .65 GVS2 Arg GIA 2246924313

MDT DESIGN BY KOSTA THEOCHARI.

166 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 6805 E: sales@mdtdesign.com.au mdtdesign.com.au 153

// DESIGN AWARDS

154

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MINOA CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $18.000

Handmade 18ct Rose gold ring set with One Tension Set 1.02ct Marquise cut diamond GSI1. GIAe 2186184826.

MDT DESIGN 166 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 6805 E: sales@mdtdesign.com.au mdtdesign.com.au 155

// DESIGN AWARDS

156

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

PENTE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $31,880

Handmade 18WG 5 diamond tension set with 1.01BC FSI1 ARG GIAe 2207406497 4=.53 BC FG VS2

MDT DESIGN BY NICHOLAS THEOCHARI.

166 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 6805 E: sales@mdtdesign.com.au mdtdesign.com.au 157

// DESIGN AWARDS

158

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

XENYA CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $62,800

Handmade 18 WG set with One Tension set 1.25ct Cushion Fancy Vivid Natural Yellow VS2 GIA 5161872832 and Tension set 2=0.47ct VS2 Fancy light Natural Yellow. 18wg

MDT DESIGN 166 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 6805 E: sales@mdtdesign.com.au mdtdesign.com.au 159

// DESIGN AWARDS

160

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ROSE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $36.600

Handmade RBC 0.22ct Argyle PC1SI1 18 RG, 188 = 1.62ct of RBC Argyle PC1-P7 and FGVS diamonds.

MDT DESIGN

BY GREGOIRE VENDE

166 Swanston Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 6805 E: sales@mdtdesign.com.au mdtdesign.com.au 161

// DESIGN AWARDS

162

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

PEARL AND DIAMOND PENDANT CATEGORY: Pearls (over $5,000)

| DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,800

A fully handmade “V” shaped pendant, set with diamonds in micro castle-claw settings. Down each line of stones is a static hexagon of white gold. At the base is a Broome South Sea Pearl, 14-14.5mm in grey/silver and at the top is a smaller Akoya pearl. Made in 18ct white gold.

MN JEWELLERY DESIGN MATTHEW NEALE

Shop 2 /370 Main Rd, Wellington Point 4160 QLD P: (07) 3822 7950 E: info@mnjewellerydesign.com.au mnjewellerydesign.com.au 163

// DESIGN AWARDS

164

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

RETICULATION CATEGORY: Apprentice | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $1,750 Sterling Silver pendant with interchangeable, handmade Bismuth geodes, and enhancer.

RHIANON BARRETT-BROOK P: 0417 723 334 E: rhianon.barrett1@gmail.com

165

166

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ELEVATE CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $4900 A round emerald is grain set in a hexagonal top plate with 6 x 1pt diamonds set in kite shaped detail 750 white gold. The band is 750 rose gold with 3 x pitched ribs on each shoulder. Classic emerald beauty is surrounded by a web of geometric form, hand cut and set with diamonds to catch the eye. A beautiful mix of traditional techniques and design complement and accentuate the bold form of the rose gold shoulders and band.

ROSE & CROWN JEWELLERS TERRY COCKREM

272 High St, Northcote Vic. 3070 P: (03) 9481 4558 E: contact@roseandcrownjewellers.com roseandcrownjewellers.com 167

168

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

OCEANA CATEGORY: ART PIECE | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $290,400 Master goldsmith Paul Amey had a desire to make a champagne glass. He called on his 50 years of experience to create this original masterpiece. The stemware, as he likes to call it, was the first, and possibly will be the only one he will ever do. It is a truly original one-off work of art. As a lover of all things marine, Paul decided to build a miniature coral reef with its own life forms. This includes a sting ray, anemone and natural pink coral with a bubble stream and Broome pearls, all a fond memory of his Shark Bay experiences. Another unique aspect about this particular piece is that the champagne flute can be changed to a red wine bowl. The champagne flute or red wine bowls are interchangeable via a uniquely engineered mechanism. The stemware is made from and contains 18ct yellow gold, platinum, natural pink coral, Keshi pearls and diamonds. There is a stingray motif amongst the seaweed pattern with a solid gold rim around the foot of the glass. The diamonds that are featured in this piece are: 1 x 65pt Pear Shaped G SI1; 1 x 51pt, E SI2 Pear Shaped; 6 x 15pt F SI round diamonds; 10 x 8pt F SI round diamonds; 10 x 5pt F SI round diamonds; 1 x 3pt F SI round diamond; 73 x 1pt round white diamonds (bubbles); and 2 x 1pt colour enhanced green diamonds for the Stingrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyes. This truly unique and exquisite art piece took Paul Amey 240 hours of artistry and labour to bring to life.

THE EROTIC JEWELLERY COMPANY

PAUL AMEY

P: 0437 231 921 E: info@eroticjewellery.com eroticjewellery.com or PaulAmeyJeweller.com 169

01 PHOTOGRAPHY // TORD JOHNSTON

170

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP // PH: (03) 9866 4983

171

172

BOTH PAGES: KESHETT // PH: (03) 9654 1514

173

PHOTOGRAPHY // TANDY ROWLEY

174

BOTH PAGES: KESHETT // PH: (03) 9654 1514

175

176

BOTH PAGES: KESHETT // PH: (03) 9654 1514

177

02 PHOTOGRAPHY // ANTHONY MASCI

178

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP // PH: (03) 9866 4983

179

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP // PH: (03) 9866 4983

180

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP // PH: (03) 9866 4983

181

03 PHOTOGRAPHY // TANDY ROWLEY

182

GIULIANS // PH: (02) 9247 5630

183

BOTH PAGES: GIULIANS // PH: (02) 9247 5630

184

185

BOTH PAGES: GIULIANS // PH: (02) 9247 5630

186

187

BOTH PAGES: GIULIANS // PH: (02) 9247 5630

188

189

Find Your

Jeweller

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellers

// PROFILES

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS

Bruce Robinson Diamonds is a family run business of 48 years standing and specialises in fine custom handmade diamond jewellery, with an emphasis on coloured diamonds - including the Beyond Rare Argyle Pink Diamonds. Bruce Robinson Diamondsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; workshop is dedicated to creating one-off timeless pieces using only the best in quality natural gemstones and precious metals. Bruce Robinson Diamonds are handpicked from all over the world, with sourcing the finest cut diamonds our business' primary objective. Bruce Robinsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diamonds expertise in craftsmanship began when Bruce trained with a Swiss-German tiara maker - we continue to apply those time-honoured rules of design and manufacturing to all new and unexpected creations.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village 83 Merthyr Road New Farm QLD PH: (07) 3254 4444 Email: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au Website: www.ageniuswithgems.com.au 192

// PROFILES

CREATIONS

Creations is something of a rarity in the traditional world of fine jewellery – they have a modern approach to jewellery design, creating timeless and wearable jewellery with a distinctly “Creations” style. They are an established family owned and operated business located in the prestigious centre of Manuka in Canberra. Their state of the art workshop on the premises boasts six resident jewellers and a master diamond setter from Israel. All setting is performed under a microscope to ensure the highest quality finish. Designing and re-modelling is one of Creation’s specialties. Their team of designers and jewellers have won several prestigious national and international jewellery awards. Their most recent awards include The Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery Awards 2018. Winner, Coloured Diamond category and Winner, Solitaire Diamond category. Creations were finalists in the Jewellery Design awards and won the ‘Coloured Gemstone’ category in August 2017. They were also finalists in a number of categories for The Australian Jewellery Design Awards in 2017 and winning the ‘Accessories over $5,000’ category. In their beautiful Canberra store you can feast your eyes on the best Australia has to offer with Autore South Sea pearls, along with white and coloured Australian diamonds. They stock a large range of Tahitian and freshwater pearls, Italian and German gold and silver. What set’s Creations apart from any other jewellery store, is that they predominately design and handmake most of their their own jewellery featuring diamonds, pearls and exotic coloured gemstones sourced from all over the world. Their friendly and helpful staff consists of experienced designers, gemmologists, valuers and a team of creative jewellers.

CREATIONS

194

Style Arcade Manuka Canberra ACT PH: (02) 6295 1763 FAX: (02) 6295 1711 Email: info@creationsjewellers.com.au Website: www.creationsjewellers.com.au

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

DANNY LEE DESIGNS

With 35 years of experience in jewellery design and manufacturing, Danny Lee has developed an extraordinary level of artistic skill and knowledge of materials which are clearly reflected in every piece of hand crafted jewellery he makes. After many years of working for several of Melbourne’s most prestigious jewellery houses, Danny achieved his life ambition of opening his own boutique store in 2008. It is at his beautiful store in North Balwyn that his unique bespoke pieces are handmade in-house in conjunction with the most advanced technology used today to create the most intricate pieces of jewellery. Danny specialises in classic and contemporary styles of all jewellery pieces. Having access to a large inventory of GIA certified diamonds from around the world means that Danny can source stones to your specific requirements and at the most competitive prices. You will also be able to have your own jewellery cleaned, repaired or redesigned at Danny Lee Designs. One of his greatest talents is antique jewellery reproduction, which sets him apart from his competitors. The high calibre of Danny’s work is the culmination of his unique experience, detailed skill, and immense passion for his work. With a keen eye for perfection, Danny maintains the highest standard of service and quality to ensure that each and every client’s desires are met. Come in and experience the ambiance of Danny Lee Designs.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road North Balwyn VIC PH: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 Email: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com Website: www.dannyleedesigns.com 196

Photography // Gazi Photography

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP

Leading retail jewellers, Ian Sharp have been satisfying the desires of jewellery lovers for almost 30 years. “Our store has been acclaimed as one of the most elegant and up to date in Australia,” says Ian Sharp. “We have four leading manufacturing jewellers on the premises, so we keep the making process completely in house.” The team boasts an intimate knowledge of design and craftsmanship creating an outstanding collection of contemporary and classic jewellery pieces. Ideal cut diamonds are sourced from Belgium, Israel, New York and India, with South Sea pearls from Broome and gold pieces from Italy. “With the high level of our source materials, we guarantee the best possible quality and price,” says Ian. The Ian Sharp clientele includes celebrities, sports people and pop stars, who all know that the outcome will be exquisitely handmade, individual jewellery pieces. “We pride ourselves on our customer service and ability to interpret and respond to our clients aesthetic desires,” says Ian. His effervescent charm and instinct for design are recognised as the cornerstone of this successful jeweller and have secured Ian Sharp as one of Melbourne’s leading jewellery designers.

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP 65 Toorak Road South Yarra VIC PH: (03) 9866 4983 Email: sales@iansharp.com.au Website: www.iansharp.com.au 198

Photography // Anthony Masci

// PROFILES

Photography // Anthony Masci

KESHETT JEWELLERS

Keshett Jewellers has been renowned for its impeccable quality and service for almost 30 years. They pride themselves on being jewellers of distinction and the continued success of this family business has solidified that belief. The team at Keshett Jewellers is proud to welcome you to the newly renovated store to view the stunning range of jewellery available. Keshett Jewellers is home to the most rare and remarkable collection of contemporary jewellery - specialising in uniquely designed modern engagement rings, period jewellery (including original Art Deco, Retro and Edwardian pieces), as well as estate jewellery available for Australian collectors. When you visit Keshett Jewellers, you will see the dedication to craftsmanship and the attention to detail by the sales consultants. It is an unrivalled experience. However, it is the range and variety of jewellery sourced from all around the world that is the pride of this store â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they are objects of priceless quality that have to be seen to be believed. Discover objects of timeless beauty and unique designs by visiting Keshett Jewellers today.

KESHETT JEWELLERS 323-325 Little Collins Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade 282 Collins Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 8590 8560 FAX: (03) 9650 1084 Email: sales@keshett.com.au Website: www.keshett.com.au 200

Photography // Anthony Masci

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY

Mark and Shelley Evans, of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery are fuelled by their passion for coloured gemstones. Their primary focus is to captivate their audience with design and colour. “We wanted to introduce people to the amazing array of natural gemstones that nature provides. We have found that like the uniqueness of gemstones, it is becoming more evident that people wish to express their individuality by commissioning bespoke jewellery,” Mark explains. At the heart of their passion is a desire to make a difference to how jewellery is perceived. “It is an heirloom - a moment captured in time, a tangible memory to share with future generations.” As a member of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia, each piece of jewellery is hallmarked and dated, to capture a moment in time. This focus was also the inspiration behind the design of Mark’s workshop, having embraced the concept of an open view workshop layout where Mark can be observed handcrafting fine jewellery. “The art of jewellery-making has always been perceived under a shroud of secrecy, and with our new workshop design, the art and skill that goes into every handcrafted piece of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery can be appreciated, slowly de-mystifying the art of jewellerymaking,” says Mark. With over 35 years as a goldsmith, Mark is increasingly enthusiastic about the direction that Shelley and Mark’s designs are taking. “We don’t expect our jewellery to appeal to the masses; however we hope our design prowess, technical expertise and attention to detail with each design impress those purveying our work.” Mark and Shelley’s commitment to the fusion of contemporary design, meticulous detail and unsurpassed craftsmanship is what inspires this duo to create their remarkable jewellery. MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY 69 Sugar Road Maroochydore QLD PH: (07) 5443 2778 Email: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au Website: www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au 202

Photography // Tord Johnston

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

MDT DESIGN

At MDTdesign, we love to hand make simply stunning rings. You can choose from our huge range or you can let us create for you the ring of your dreams to celebrate the uniqueness of your love. Every ring we make is individually designed for the couple choosing it so you will never see a ring like yours anywhere else. Whether your heart desires something traditional or modern, or something in between, you will discover our award winning designs are truly amazing. Our tension set “floating diamond” rings have to be seen to be believed, while our Mokume Gane rings utilise ancient Japanese sword-making techniques and represent the pinnacle of the jeweller’s art. We work with only the highest quality diamonds, all hand-selected, including beautiful Australian Argyle pink and white diamonds. Come and speak to us about your ideal ring. We design and hand-craft all our jewellery in our own workshop so your ring never leaves our hands until it is safely in yours. Choose MDTdesign, for the ring you have always dreamed would one day be yours forever.

MDT DESIGN 166 Swanston Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 6805 FAX: (03) 9650 4401 Email: admin@mdtdesign.com Website: www.mdtdesign.com.au 204

Photography // Tord Johnston

Image // courtesy Desma Noble

// INTELLIGENCE

THE MARK THAT PACKS A PUNCH Helen Collier

Benjamin Franklin asserted that there are no certainties in life, except death and taxes, but a group of Australian jewellery makers (Fellows of the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia) wish to add a third guarantee to his list - their makers’ mark. Everyone loves a guarantee when making a precious purchase, it gives assurance that we are buying a genuine article, and paying the correct amount for the true value of our item. Hallmarks have been giving that guarantee in England since the 1300s, and in line with that time honoured tradition, members of the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia mark their work out of personal pride as well as for customer confidence. When investing in a piece of hand made Australian jewellery, there’s a peace of mind that comes with the integrity bestowed by a maker’s mark and a guild mark. Each country has its own system of marking precious metals; from none at all, to full legal obligation. In England it’s a legal

206

requirement that every gold or silver item of jewellery made or sold has to be assayed (assessed for its purity) by the assay office and then marked accordingly by them – pieces that don’t reach the standard can be destroyed. Without such governance here in Australia, the customer looking to buy a beautiful piece of Australian made and designed jewellery finds themselves at a disadvantage. Unless of course they buy a piece marked with the the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia’s seal of approval. In an otherwise unregulated environment, the Guild’s marks become all the more valuable to the jewellery buyer, as they show a willingness on the part of the jeweller to give every assurance that their piece is sound, of a standard of excellence and meets the Australian Standard for precious metals. In addition to symbolising fine craftsmanship, the Guild marks on a piece of jewellery (see inside back cover), details from left to

This page: clockwise from top left Jewellery // Marcus Synott Jewellery // Victoria Buckley Jewellery // Lucy Godoroja

right who made it, from what precious metal, that it is Australian made and whether by a Fellow or Full Member. It’s a mark of surety, provenance, craftsmanship and history. A jeweller seeking acceptance into the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia, submits a number of pieces of their work for assessment by seven experienced jewellery makers who make up the National Council of the Guild. After detailed assessment of their work and following up four sets of references, if voted in, the jeweller pays their annual subscription to become a member of the Guild. The Guild have their Fellow’s ‘punch’ made up for them, (it is illegal to have the punch made by any other means) and the jeweller

Image // courtesy Desma Noble

sends their maker’s mark to the Guild so it can be recorded by the Keeper of the Punches who strikes their mark on a silver plate. The jeweller is then sent their kangaroo head punch and a date punch (optional). Each metal purity also has its own specific punch so a jeweller buys a set. Then at the start of each year on 1st January, a new date punch is produced which can be purchased by Guild members. From this collection of punches, the relevant ones are struck into a piece of jewellery as it is being made (struck into the shank of a ring or tiny plate on a necklace fastener).

207

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // Chris Sherwin

When investing in a piece of hand made Australian jewellery, there’s a peace of mind that comes with the integrity bestowed by a maker’s mark and a guild mark.

Jewellery // Finelines Jeweller

Just because a jewellery maker is a Fellow of the Guild doesn’t follow that he or she will mark every piece of jewellery they make. It is not a legally enforced requirement for a jeweller to mark his or her work, or be a fellow of the Guild, so to make your buying process harder, there are some beautiful pieces of jewellery being made in Australia that won’t carry these marks. All pieces made and designed by a Fellow of the Guild will always have a millesimal purity mark (in accordance with Australian Standard 2140-2008), integral to the piece, it won’t be

something that can be easily removed. If the piece contains more than one metal alloy, it will be marked in order of content. But unless it’s marked as such, there are no guarantees that you’re buying genuine silver or gold. The integrity of a piece of jewellery is dependent on its make up and the quality of the precious metal alloy. Alarming stories abound of ‘sterling silver’ rings that melt or fail during repairs and turn out to have an outer coating that simply falls off. Aside from not being worth the money you have paid for them, inferior metals can cause skin

discolouration and irritation. If you’ve been sold sterling silver or 18-22 carat gold, you don’t expect to come out in a rash due to a high nickel content.

208

It’s astonishing that something so small can pack such a punch (at 1.25mm the details of the marks cannot be gleaned without magnification)

Jewellery

//-Emily

Snadden

Jewellery // Desma Designs -

Jewellery // Adina Jozsef

The benefits of a Guild mark and maker’s mark in your jewellery are many and benefit all concerned. The Guild mark and date mark are useful historically to determine when a piece was made which can help with valuations, and indeed with police investigations by identifying jewellery that has been stolen and reuniting it with its rightful owner. Knowing it’s Australian, eradicates the issues that come with cheaper imported goods. Our buying power has increased exponentially in the last few decades and we the consumer dictate what we find acceptable. People shopping with a conscience, who understand the harm that plastic creates, have pressurised shops to withdraw it. When we buy food we check the label, seeking reassurance as to our food’s integrity – and jewellery is no different – when customers start to ask their jeweller if they are a Guild member and whether they mark their work with a kangaroo head, they will start to drive the demand for a mark. It will effectively dictate the future of guild marking in Australian-made jewellery. It’s astonishing that something so small can pack such a punch (at 1.25mm the details of the marks cannot be gleaned without magnification), but in the case of these punches, they do exactly that. As Tim Peel, current President of the Guild said ‘There aren’t many punches you go looking for in life; for me these are the only kind worth having and where everyone benefits!’

209

// INTELLIGENCE

USE OF GUILD MARKS A core function of the Gold and Silversmith’s Guild of Australia is to administer and facilitate the time-honored practice of gold and silversmith’s marking their work with their personal makers mark, alongside the metal purity marks as set by Australian Standards AS-2140-08. These members’ makers marks are struck on fine silver “touchplates” which remain the property of the Gold and Silversmith’s Guild of Australia, archived as a permanent record for posterity. This enables future generations to identify the maker of artworks and Jewellery, assisting the process of establishing provenance. This marking system is unique in Australia. Only acceptance as a Fellow of the GSGA entitles makers to the use of the iconic kangaroo head which is the Guild Mark. This mark is Trade Mark registered in various forms, and therefore protected and cannot be used by anyone not a current member of the Guild, each punch is numbered and issued to a member on joining. The punch remains the property of the Guild and is therefore legally required to be returned when membership is ceased.

STANDARDS OF USE FOR GUILD MARKS • • • • •

•

The Guild mark can only be used: On precious metals gold, platinum and silver meeting Standards Australia AS-2140-08. Where accompanied by the appropriate metal purity mark consistent with AS-2140-08. Where the design and manufacture has taken place in Australia. Where accompanied by the member’s makers mark. Where the Fellow’s own hand has been a significant part of the creative process. See recommendations below. The use of the date mark is optional but it must always accompany the Guild and maker’s marks.

DATE MARK Cannot be used unless accompanied by the guild mark and makers mark.

210

The date mark may be purchased by members, its use commences on January 1st each year. The date mark exhibits the same letter as that used by The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths – Guildhall in Britain, but within the shape of the diamond border. This provides ease of recognition of the date of manufacture, as collectors and others interested have ready access to those images. The use of the date letter is optional but desirable to aid the process of establishing provenance.

RECOMMENDATIONS GUILD MARK

FOR

THE

USE

THE

Regarding items that have been manufactured by means other than hand-fabrication, the work may only be stamped with the guild mark where: • The Fellow’s own hand has been a significant part of the creative process. • The original work or “master pattern” is that of the Fellow. • The Fellow takes personal responsibility for the quality of all work and metal purity of the final piece. • The Guild mark is stamped on the work individually, after production and NOT reproduced “in-situ”.

SOME EXAMPLES ARE: Moulding and Casting a master pattern to reproduce multiples of a design. The master must be an original work and the standard of professional finish is suitable. The Guild mark is stamped post manufacture and not cast “in-situ”. Casting from wax: The wax design is the original work of the member and of quality they are proud to have marked. Computer Aided Design and Manufacture: (CAD CAM): The Fellow takes responsibility for the originality of design and professional quality of the finished work. The Guild Mark must be hand-stamped and not part of a print.

The Gold

Silversmiths

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Your Jewellery Guarantee and comprehensive system of marking precious metal items.

Guild members names and Makers Marks are permanently recorded, they abide by set metal standards of material, their work is clearly identified as genuinely made in Australia and the year of manufacture can be recorded.

Makers Mark, Fineness Mark and Guild Mark Makers Mark

Fineness Mark

the individual or company

Precious metal content, expressed in parts per thousand with the border denoting principle elemental metal in accordance with Australian Standard AS-2140-2008

Silver

Palladium

Gold

Guild Mark

Fully registered and legally protected mark

Platinum

9 carat

Fellow of GSGA Individual maker producing distinctively designed, primarily hand made precious metal articles in Australia

14 carat

Full Member of GSGA

18 carat

Sterling

Individual with employees producing distinctive articles or a Fellow engaged with multiple high quality production of precious metal articles in Australia

22 carat

fine gold

Follows the convention established by the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths UK and incorporates the current script letter

1989

1990

1991

1992

1993

1994

1995

1996

1997

1998

1999

2000

l 2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020

2021

2009

2010

2001

2011

2012

2013

2014

qrstuvwxyz

Other marks you may see on International items of precious metal International Convention Marks Silver

Palladium

Gold

Platinum

London

Birmingham

Sheffield

Edinburgh

United Kingdom Assay Office Marks

Guild members guarantee quality, metal purity, workmanship and above all - Australian made! Have confidence in your purchase.

For contact details of Guild members in each State: visit www.gsga.org.au, phone 0431 284 060 or write to PO Box 379 Melbourne 3001