Jewellery Magazine Issue #16 by mediaink6

THE DESIGN AWARDS

WWW.MEDIAINK.COM.AU

AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

BEAUTY

RICH & RARE

GEM OF THE SEA MAINTAINING DIAMONDS

NATIONAL

ICONS

WEDDING COLLECTIONS AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS MAJOR SPONSORS AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS BASTIAN INVERUN BREUNING THE GOLD & SILVERSMITH GUILD OF AUSTRALIA COVER JEWELLERY // CATANACH'S PHOTOGRAPHY // TORD JOHNSTON

THE FINEST OF THEM ALL

UNIQUE BEAUTY OF COLOUR

COLOUR CARAT CLARITY CUT

SHOP 15 MERTHYR VILLAGE 83 MERTHYR ROAD NEW FARM QLD 4005 Ph: 07 3254 4444 Email: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au www.ageniuswithgems.com.au

Feel the joy of romance forever

Goddess Collectionâ&#x201E;¢ by Travis Trewarne

M ELB OU R N E ES T. 19 3 2

Melbourne CBD Store Shop G7 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 234 Collins Street (03) 9654 9805 Westfield Southland Store Shop 2006, Retail Bridge Southland Shopping Centre Cheltenham (03) 9583 9299

Trewarne Fine Jewellery

@trewarnediamonds @travistrewarne

www.trewarne.com.au

MARK EVANS

FINE JEWELLERY 69 Sugar Road Maroochydore Queensland 4558 Ph: 07 5443 2778 mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au

// EDITION 16

FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to the 16th annual edition of Jewellery Magazine. The following pages are filled with carefully crafted creations, rare and exceptional jewels and all the knowledge required to further nurture a deep appreciation for the finest jewellery and gems. Our 16th edition includes all of the many stunning entries submitted for the second Australian Jewellery Design Awards (page 58) and once again our entries run the full gamut of artistry and creativity, highlighting technical precision and adherence to design fundamental, but also delving deeply into the imagination and inventiveness that we have come to expect from Australia’s world class jewellery designers. Researching National Icons (page 34) we put a spotlight on some of Australia’s own unique gems. From the finest opals, stunning pearls to exquisite Argyle Pink Diamonds, we’re celebrating the jewels of our sunburnt land.

For this edition, we caught up with master jeweller Mark Evans to uncover his stunning approach to the unique beauty of coloured gems, and from across the globe we feature the recent winners of the prestigious 2018 Saul Bell Design Awards. Our 16th edition also features the work of photographers Tandy Rowley and Tord Johnston. Whether you are building up your own knowledge base to invest in an important piece, keeping abreast of current trends of simply wanting to indulge a love of fine jewellery, we’ve designed this issue with you in mind. Jewellery Magazine would not be complete without our full-proof jewellers guide, and this edition once again features the names and creative geniuses behind the exceptional jewellery that adorns our many pages, so that you can be assured of finding the jeweller that is right for you.

Tara Rigney Group Editor

PUBLISHED BY Media Ink 85 Old Warrandyte Road Donvale VIC 3111 PUBLISHER Chris MacLeod GROUP EDITOR Tara Rigney design@mediaink.com.au CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Simon Garner Bianca Mangion

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GRAPHIC DESIGNER Tara Rigney design@mediaink.com.au ADVERTISING Chris MacLeod Mobile: 0438 329 008 chris@mediaink.com.au FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Jun Teng accounts@mediaink.com.au ONLINE www.mediaink.com.au

DISTRIBUTION Distributed by Gordon & Gotch, Jewellery is available nationally at newsagents and specialty retailers.

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellery

// EDITION 16

CONTENTS Intelligence

Did You Know

Unique Beauty Of Colour

Gold Digger

Declaring A Union In Style

The Ring Thing

Wedding Collections

Diamond Fever

Your "I Doâ&#x20AC;? Diamond

Metal Work

Something Blue

A Rose In Time

Stones Of Heaven

Colour, Carat, Clarity, Cut

Beauty Rich And Rare

Maintaining Diamonds

2018 Saul Bell Competition

The Finest of Them All

Australian Jewellery Design Awards

National Icons

Gem Of The Sea

The Gold & Silversmiths Guild Of Australia

252

323-325 Little Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade, 282 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 8590 8560 sales@keshett.com.au www.keshett.com.au

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellery

// EDITION 16

CONTENTS Australian Jewellery Design Awards Adina Jozsef

Magnolia Designs

152 154

Alistair Kelsey Jewellery

Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

Arkion Boutique Investments

Matthews Jewellers

156

Artelia Jewellery

Minzenmay

158 168

Australian Chocolate Diamonds

MN Jewellery Design

Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds

Orion Joel Custom Jewellery

170

Bruce Robinson Diamonds

Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery

172

Creations Jewellers

RJ Pearce Designer Jewellers

180

Danny Lee Designs

Silvermist Studio

182

The Erotic Jewellery Co

184

Debbie Sheezel

104

Trewarne Fine Jewellery

186

Desma Designs Jewellery

116

Valenzo Jewellers

194

De Klerk Jewellers

Finelines Jewellers

118

Gerard McCabe Jewellers

122

Ian Sharp Jewellery Craftsmanship

128

Jewel Gallery

Janai

130

196

Jason Ree

132

200

Kennedy Jewellers

142

208

Legassick

146

216

323-325 Little Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade, 282 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 8590 8560 sales@keshett.com.au www.keshett.com.au

Jewellery // Samantha Kelly Jewellery

// DID YOU KNOW

DID YOU KNOW • PRIZED SINCE THE ANCIENT TIMES, a fine emerald can be more expensive than a high quality diamond of the same carat weight. Egyptian emeralds were introduced to the world over 4000 years ago. During Cleopatra’s reign, she claimed the emerald mines as her own, being that it was her favourite gem, and often adorning herself in lavish emerald jewellery. In fact, the verdant sparkle of the gem has captured the fancy of many rulers, including

• THE INDUSTRIAL

Revolution of the 19th century

essentially created a jewellery market that was available to everyone. The middle class of a society could now purchase fine pieces of jewellery, and when imitation stones began flooding the market even those from working classes could afford a piece of jewellery.

• THE 17TH CENTURY

marked an increase in the use

Alexander the Great and Emperor Nero. Royal houses would

of diamonds and other gemstones. Instead of wearing a bevy

adorn their crowned leaders with the power and beauty of

of jewelled items people started wearing stunning high quality

this rare gem.

pieces. The last monarch to wear jewellery to great excess was Louis XIV of France.

• COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES

were formed to

Ring // Jason Ree

openly market the sale of jewellery. The firms of Faberge, Cartier, Tiffany and other great jewellery companies have their beginnings and roots in the Industrial Revolution.

• MEN WERE THE FIRST to wear jewellery as a status symbol and as good luck amulets to aid them in battle. Aaron, the first high priest of Hebrews, wore 12 gemstones (representing the 12 tribes of Israel) in his silver breastplate. It is

Ring // LeGassick

thought that this is when birthstones originated.

• THE LARGEST DIAMOND ever found was the Cullinan, which weighted 3106 carats (621 grams) and came from South Africa’s Premier mine in 1905. The Cullinan diamond was cut into nine large gems and 100 smaller stones and now forms part of the British Crown Jewels.

• ONE MAJOR SOURCE

of design originated

in the Victorian age of England. It was under this influence that jewellery turned from nature to solid, more dignified designs and richer, heavier stones. By 1860, women were wearing hoopskirts, shawls and long sleeves and jewellery coordinated with large pins worn at the throat, long earrings, heavy bracelets and heavily worked gold rings. When Albert died in 1861, mourning became

Earrings // Danny Lee Designs

a national pastime and mourning jewellery went along with the trend. Black onyx and jet were worn constantly.

• EARLY IN ITS INCEPTION,

jewellery was

associated with religious rites. Gold and jewels were used as gifts for the maintenance of worship. In accordance with this began the presumption that benefits could be derived from their wear and soon began the development of a complex network of fictitious powers being attributed to them. 16

Ring // Robert Paul

AWARD WINNING DESIGNERS AND RESIDENT JEWELLERS

STYLE ARCADE MANUKA CANBERRA (02) 6295 1763 www.creationsjewellers.com.au Instagram Social Icon

@creationsjewellers share’n is care’n @mrkylemac

Jewellery // Ina Barry Gold & Silversmith Image // Tord Johnston

// INTELLIGENCE

GOLD DIGGER JEWELLERY DIGS THE DIRT ON SOME KNOWLEDGE– WORTHY NUGGETS.

More than half of all humanity’s gold has been extracted in the past 50 years. Now the world’s richest deposits are fast being depleted, and new discoveries rare. Most of the gold left to mine exists as traces buried in remote and fragile corners of the globe.

Gold is so rare that the world pours more steel in an hour than it has poured gold since the beginning of recorded history.

52 percent of gold that is mined is used for jewellery, 18 percent constitutes official holdings (as in central banks of nations), 16 percent takes

Jewellery // Catanach's

the form of investments, 12 percent finds industrial uses, leaving two percent unaccounted for.

Gold is so pliable that it can be made into sewing thread. An ounce of gold can be stretched over 80 kilometres.

Gold is chemically inert, which explains why it never

The gold mining town of Kalgoorlie has the world's

The largest gold nugget ever found is the ‘Welcome

rusts and does not cause skin irritation. If gold jewellery irritates the skin, it is likely it was mixed with another metal. Gold has been discovered on every continent on earth.

richest square mile of gold-bearing earth.

Stranger’, discovered by John Deason and Richard Oates in Australia in 1869. It is said the nugget amounted to 2,380 ounces and was found just two inches below the ground surface.

Jewellery // Catanach's

Gold melts at 1064.43 degrees centigrade. It can conduct both heat and electricity and it never rusts.

10. India is the biggest consumer of gold in the world. Jewellery // Samantha Kelly Jewellery 18

Custom-made engagement rings and wedding bands, each uniquely designed and hand-crafted in our workshop with the assurance of exceptional workmanship. Find us online to see our expanding range. 1315 Mountain Hwy, The Basin VIC Ph: (03) 9762-6953 info@ralffischjewellery.com.au

www.ralffischjewellery.com.au

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

THE RING THING You will have your engagement & wedding rings for the rest of your life so choosing something that you will love and cherish is an important decision. There is a myriad of styles and materials available so what will suit you best? Jewellery has a quick guide to help you on your quest for the perfect ring. Jewellery // Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery Image // Anthony Masci

BEFORE BUYING YOUR RING Your wedding ring carries a lot of significance and is one of the most emotionally significant moments during your wedding planning experience. As symbols of your eternal commitment to each other, your wedding rings hold inherent importance to your ceremony. Thus time should be taken to choose your rings carefully, ensuring they align with your style and budget as a couple. Jewellery // Tishe Image // Tord Johnston

WEAR AND CARE No matter the metal you have chosen for your wedding ring, it can damage or tarnish over the time. Look after your rings by removing them when doing chores or playing sport. Cleaning agents and cosmetics can dull its appearance so maintain its shine by having it cleaned regularly by a professional. Jewellery // Creations Image // Tandy Rowley

WHERE TO BEGIN? Window shopping is a great way to get an idea of the array of designs, metals and prices. You can also browse the Internet and flip through magazines for inspiration. Your choice should reflect your budget, style and most importantly, lifestyle. Choose good quality and well-made rings that will stand the test of time. Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

MATCHING SETS Generally, your wedding band should match your engagement ring as more often than not, they will be worn together on the same finger. You can also think of wearing matching wedding rings with your husband-to-be which is a very romantic touch.

DESIGN DECISIONS Brides-to-be should consider the engagement ring shape so that the wedding band will compliment it. Designs of wedding rings are diverse and varied. Whether you like classic or fancy shape diamond rings there is a full range of designs to suit you. Comfort is also important so it is advisable to choose the right fit that is not too tight and not too loose. Jewellery // Catanachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Jewellery Craftsmanship

65 Toorak Rd, South Yarra . Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866 4983 www.iansharp.com.au

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // Catanach's

DIAMOND FEVER A diamond is an exquisite gemstone that needs no explanation when it comes to beauty and brilliance. With such beauty, comes mystery, which is unfolded below.

Champagne diamonds are naturally coloured diamonds that are produced in a wide range of colours from light straw to rich cognac. Argyle diamonds created the following scale specifically for champagne diamonds. The diamonds are graded on a C1- C7 colour scale. C1 and C2 represent light champagne, C3 and C4 medium champagne, and C5 and C6 dark champagne. The fancy cognac diamond is graded C7.

Not all diamonds are white. Impurities lend diamonds a shade of blue, red, orange, yellow, green and even black. Vivid blue, green and pink mined diamonds are some of the rarest.

A diamond carat differs from a gold carat. The gold carat indicates purity where pure gold is 24 carats. One diamond carat, for mined or synthetics diamonds, is 200 milligrams. The word carat derives from the carob bean. Gem dealers used to balance their scales with carob beans because these beans all have same weight.

A diamond is 58 times harder than the next hardest mineral on earth, corundum, from which rubies and sapphires are formed.

The term ‘total carat weight’ (t.c.w) is used when more than one gemstone is used in a piece of jewellery. For example, a pair of diamond solitaire earrings is described in t.c.w to refer to the total mass of the diamonds in both earrings as opposed to a single earring.

More than 99% of diamonds are now from conflict free sources and traded under the UN-mandated Kimberley Process. The Kimberley Process requires that each time a rough diamond is traded, it is accompanied by a certificate with a legally binding guarantee that it is from a conflict free source.

Jewellery // Arkion Boutique Investments

Jewellery // JWG

There are several famous black diamonds. One of the most famous is the Black Orlov (also called ‘The Eye of Brahma’), a black diamond weighing 67.5 carats. According to legend, the diamond brings death to anyone who owns it, and it has been blamed for the death of two Russian princesses.

Black diamonds are also called Carbonado. A name coined by Portuguese because of the diamond’s resemblance to porous charcoal.

Jewellery // Keshett Image // Anthony Masci

The very word itself comes from the Greek term ‘adamas’ which means ‘unconquerable’.

10. Approximately one million people are employed by the

diamond industry in India. Today, 9 out of 10 diamonds are polished in India.

Jewellery // Keshett Image // Anthony Masci 22

Jewellery Craftsmanship

65 Toorak Rd, South Yarra . Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866 4983 www.iansharp.com.au

// INTELLIGENCE

Earrings // Breuning

METAL WORK Jewellery // Minzenmay

Jewellery molds out the metals.

GOLD Gold has long since been a precious metal, greatly valued by people all over the world. Some people have The purity of gold is measured in karats. Some allergies to nickel or other countries mark gold with a three-digit number metals- if this is the case it’s that tells you what percentage of gold an item recommended to go for jewellery contains. So for example, a piece of jewellery with a higher content of goldmay have “750” indicated on it which means it this is also more durable for has 750/1000 of gold which is equivalent to 18Kt. everyday wear. Gold is quite simply one of the most respected metals around because of its timelessness, beauty and stable nature. Gold in its purest form doesn’t react with other elements to create the residue that builds up and stains your skin. It’s also one of the most malleable and softest metals that can be molded in nearly any way an artist wishes. Pure gold is not practical for everyday wear so to make it harder, less expensive or to add colour, it’s usually mixed with other metals. Yellow gold contains 50% silver and 50% copper. White gold is alloyed with nickel, zinc, copper, tin and manganese. Most white gold is also plated with rhodium which makes it harder and gives it its sheen. Over time, depending on the amount the piece of jewellery is worn you may need to re-plate the rhodium which is a simple and relatively quick process. Pink or rose gold is mixed with 90% copper and 10% silver to give it that “rose” colouring.

Ring // Bastian Inverun

Earrings // Bastian Inverun

GOLDEN TIP

SILVER Breaking away from gold we find ourselves at silver’s doorstep. Pure silver has a hardness of 2.5 on the Mohs scale and is often used in jewellery as it’s relatively soft and malleable. Copper is usually mixed in to make it more durable although this has very little effect on its value. If you are after high quality, it's sterling silver we turn to. Sterling silver is made up of approximately 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. This won’t wear down and gives off a brilliant shine which compliments any gemstones that may be set within it. Jewellery // Silvermist Studio

SILVER TIP When buying silver, make sure you look for a registered trademark mark as well as the maker’s mark on the undersideall silver by federal law must have this mark to ensure its level of quality.

For further information: OSJAG PTY LTD PO Box 4420 North Rocks NSW 2151 +612 9630 6619 admin@osjag.com www.osjag.com

For further information: OSJAG PTY LTD PO Box 4420 North bastian Rocks NSW 2151 +612 9630 6619 admin@osjag.com www.osjag.com inverun Australia bastian inverun Australia

// INTELLIGENCE

A ROSE IN TIME Evoking warm tones that work well with all styles, rose gold is a metal full of character.

WHAT IS IT? Rose gold is a mixture of yellow gold and copper alloy. The shades vary, depending on the ratio of yellow gold to copper. The more copper, the deeper the colour of the rose gold, while a softer shade is created when less copper is used.

Jewellery // Australian Chocolate Diamonds

HISTORY

Rose gold jewellery has made some notable appearances throughout history. First was during the nineteenth century in Russia when the unfamiliar combination of copper and yellow gold was introduced. At the time it was commonly referred to as ‘Russian gold’ due to its popularity and fashion-appeal amongst Russians. The radiant toned metal became popular during the MidVictorian era, where the pink-hued jewellery was seen as a colour of romance and became the style of choice during this period. However, the most recognised time period for rose gold’s popularity was in the late 1920’s when renowned French jeweller, Cartier, released a signature piece of jewellery called the Trinity Band. This ring was made up of three entwined smaller bands:

one rose gold, one white gold and one yellow gold band linked together. During the war period, the government banned the use of platinum amongst civilians as it was being used for military purposes, and so rose gold’s distinctive reputation continued to soar and it quickly became the common alternative for jewellery pieces. It continued to flourish during the Retro Era between 1935 up until the 1950’s. The 90’s saw minimalism take hold and jewellery trends shifted to more black and white styles which mainly featured silver or white gold jewellery. However, the past few years have seen a resurgence in the popularity of rose gold.

MODERN DAY Perfect for use as the focus material or a fine feature contrasted against white gold or platinum, rose gold has become a favourite material to work with when designing new jewellery pieces. Its ability to add colour and soften any piece while highlighting diamonds and gems has led to its inclusion in many jewellery pieces.

// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // LeGassick

COLOUR, CARAT, CLARITY, CUT Before you start out on your all-important search, it’s imperative you familiarise yourself with the four C’s of diamond dealing.

The quality over quantity principal also applies when putting a ring on it. For example, you could risk buying an enormous rock that may not have half the quality of a smaller diamond at the same price. So let’s cut to it!

COLOUR When it comes to colour, less is more and the whiter the diamond, the better. Most diamonds within a reasonable price will range from white to yellow. Determined through a range of alphabets D, E and F refer to colourless (white) diamonds, while G, H, I and J are nearly colourless according to the GIA colour grades. A perfect white diamond should be crystal clear – the less yellow or brown streaks visible the more rare and valuable a diamond is.

CARAT A diamond’s weight is measured in carats (not to be confused with karat, which indicates gold’s purity). A carat is equivalent to a fifth of a gram and exactly 200 milligrams. They are weighed using a precision scale, as mere fractions of a carat can mean the difference between hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

CLARITY Clarity is the measure of the number of blemishes (external defects) and inclusions (internal defects) of a stone. An S11 or S12 diamond has inclusions or blemishes larger than a grain of salt when viewed under 10-power magnification. Whilst nearly all diamonds contain flaws, it’s important to determine there aren’t enough flaws to seriously lessen its value. Though on the positive, diamond flaws are as unique as a fingerprint and can be used as identifiers.

CUT The cut refers to the workmanship of a diamond and the manner in which it’s polished and shaped to give it its brilliance and fire. Not to be confused with a diamond’s shape, a stone’s cut or make refers to the number, placement and shape of the facets that create a finished diamond. A gem cutter sculpts the diamond’s many facets with geometric precision; symmetrically arranging them to affect the way light travels through the stone. A poorly cut diamond will ‘leak’ light out the back and some cutting faults can even make a diamond prone to breaking.

152 Main Street Mornington Victoria 3931

03 5975 2439

minzenmay.com.au

Image // Tandy Rowley

// INTELLIGENCE

MAINTAINING DIAMONDS You’ve finally invested in a gorgeous diamond and found a design that perfectly captures your personality and style. Make sure your diamond remains at its finest for years to come by following these steps.

THE BASICS: • Minimise handling – Your fingers provide enough oil from your skin to alter the way your diamond looks. If you need to handle your diamond, never pick it up by the stone as it can loosen the setting. • Implement a routine – It is important you clean your diamond regularly. Develop a simple plan that will be easy to maintain e.g. organise to soak your ring overnight 1-2 times a week. • Avoid harmful products – Chlorine or abrasives should never be used to clean your diamond as they erode some of the metals often used in diamond settings. • Visit your jeweller – Take your diamond in to be checked by an expert at least once a year. A jeweller will know what to look out for such as loose prongs and wear of mountings; they’ll also give your diamond a professional clean and shine.

TAKE IT OFF DURING HOUSEWORK: • Even though a diamond is hard, it isn’t strong and this means it is susceptible to chipping under hard blows. • Harsh cleaning products like chlorine bleach will cause damage and discolouring to your diamond.

STORAGE: • Single storage – Remember to store diamond pieces separately as diamonds can scratch and damage other items. • Special treatment – Keep your precious diamond jewellery in a fabric lined jewellery box or a compartmental case. If you don’t have access to one, wrap each piece individually in tissue paper and store them in individual boxes.

// INTELLIGENCE

THE FINEST OF THEM ALL The rare beauty of pink diamonds knows no substitute. Bianca Mangion discusses the astonishing rise in value of the world’s most-desired gems.

Jewellery // Leonards Jewellers

The Australian national anthem boasts, “Our land abounds in nature’s gifts of beauty rich and rare.” This is perhaps nowhere near as pertinent than when describing Argyle pink diamonds. The stunning, blushing beauties born in the wild of the remote East Kimberley region in Western Australia have never been more prized for their rarity and value. In recent years, exceptional examples have fetched upwards of $1m per carat and prices seem set to go higher still! This is because the Rio Tinto Argyle Diamond Mine, where over 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds are unearthed is tipped to close in a mere four to five years, creating genuine scarcity in the market. “This now makes an Argyle pink diamond ‘the ultimate limited edition’,” says Craig Leonard of Leonard’s Jewellers. Operating in Newcastle, New South Wales since 1932, Leonard’s Jewellers offers a wide collection of pink diamonds, including the prized Argyle pinks, with expertise to match. Leonard is passionate

about pinks, calling them the most concentrated form of wealth in the world and stating that the price of the gems has increased 430 per cent in the last 11 years. “They are the rarest and most valuable hard asset on Earth today,” he quips. “It is projected by the world’s leading diamond experts that they will continue to grow in price for at least the next 10 years.” Rare indeed: it is estimated that there are 10,000 colourless diamonds for every coloured diamond in existence. In operation since 1983, Argyle supplies approximately 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds yet pink diamonds are rare, even for Argyle. While the mine produces 600 million stones annually, only one tenth of one per cent is pink – white and champagne diamonds are in greater abundance while blue and green diamonds also appear there at times. Of an annual yield, the amount of Argyle pink diamonds sized half a carat or greater would fit into the palm of your hand so it’s

testament to the popularity of pink diamonds that the mine is best known for them. Rarer still, the violet diamonds produced there in a year would only just fill a teaspoon. Such rarity demands the most exclusive trading conditions. The finest stones from a year’s production are reserved for the annual Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender, usually featuring those sized half a carat and upwards. These precious stones are cut and polished by the most skilled artisans and then graded by two independent grading laboratories. These labs apply a unique grading system to the stones, mainly inspecting the richness of colour, which can range from red to pink, purplish pink to pink rose and pink champagne to violet. Once graded, the diamonds are ready for tender. Of the one million carats of rough diamonds produced at the mine each year, only one carat of pink diamonds is available for sale at the event truly making each of these stones a one-in-a-million purchase! The finest 55-60 diamonds are revealed at a private showing, where prospective buyers have the opportunity to place sealed bids. Is it any wonder these precious gems are so coveted?! Leonard advises those looking to obtain a pink diamond – whether looking to make a self-managed superannuation investment or to use the stones as complementary side diamonds on an engagement ring – not to settle for anything less. “Ensure it’s an Argyle pink diamond, not an African or Brazilian pink as these diamonds do not have the rarity that will keep driving the prices up,” he warns. If you are purchasing a pink diamond jewellery piece, Leonard advises to opt for popular, classic designs: “When it comes to styles, most people keep to what’s popular as they will generally want to resell it after a few years to make a profit.” Value aside, a pink diamond lover appreciates these beauties for the depth of their romantic hue, which should be observed when making a purchase. The more intense and deep its colour, the greater the value of a pink diamond – the rare deep red is the ultimate prize. “Unlike white diamonds it’s all about the saturation of pink colour and not the clarity, as most Argyle pink diamonds are I1 to SI2 in clarity,” Leonard adds. This pink tone is purportedly produced as a result of rare geological conditions. While scientists are still uncertain, many accept that a pink diamond’s colour comes from a distortion in the diamond’s molecular structure following its formation in the Earth’s mantle or during its 160km ascent to the Earth’s surface. When they do appear, only the luckiest few will ever get to possess these precious pinks.

Jewellery // Giulians Images // Tandy Rowley

This page: Left Rings // De Klerk Jewellers Right Ring // JWG

// INTELLIGENCE

Necklace // Giulians

NATIONAL ICONS Show off your patriotic side in understated fashion with these Australian gems that have become national icons.

OPALS

LIGHTNING RIDGE BLACK OPALS

Proclaimed as Australia’s most famous gemstone, opal has long been admired throughout the ages – from ancient Romans to the Aztecs and the Arabs. Staking its position in the world from its discovery more than 2000 years ago, opal is the only gemstone in the world whose colour is created by refracted light, gifting it with seven colours of the rainbow. With its flashes of spectral colour and pattern, no two opals are ever alike. Similar to the rainbow colours on a soap bubble, its effect changes with the smallest rotation. Australia is one of the few places on earth where the unique combination of criteria is needed for opals to occur. Opal is generally found at depths between 10 to 30 meters below the surface in a layer of claystone or “opal dirt” immediately below a level of sandstone. Australia produces over 90% of the world’s supply of opal and approximately 99% of gem quality opal. Major Australian opal fields are located in Lightning Ridge and White Cliffs in New South Wales (black opal), Coober Pedy, Andamooka and Mintabie in South Australia (light opal) and various locations in Queensland which produce boulder opals.

Originally known as Wallangulla, Lightning Ridge just beyond the town of Walgett in northeast New South Wales is famed locality for the Black Opal which was first found in the area back in 1900 by boundary rider Jack Murray. So what is Black Opal? Black Opal is actually White Opal stuck to a black rock. The blackness from the black rock comes from seaweed, in particular the manganese contained in seaweed, which gives it its blue-black to dark grey body tone. Fine examples of this variety are the most expensive per carat and rival diamonds in price.

Ring // Jason Ree

This page: Clockwise from top Pearls // Catanach's Jewellers Image // Gazi Photography Rings // MDT Design

SOUTH SEA PEARLS

ARGYLE DIAMONDS Located in the remote Kimberley area of Western Australia, Rio Tinto’s Argyle Diamond mine produces many of the world’s diamonds with most of them ending up as centrepieces in fine jewellery. It is the only known significant source of pink diamonds in the world, producing over 90% of the world’s supply. Of the small percentage of gem quality diamonds produced by Argyle, none are more famous or prized than the pink diamonds. These pinks are exceptionally rare and fetch exceptionally high prices. To understand just how rare they are, consider the number of pink diamonds that the mine produced in 2007. Of the 18 million carats of diamonds that the mine produced that year, only 65 carats were of a quality, size and colour to be classified as signature pink.

Rings // Xennox Diamonds

Their large size, limited culturing area and extended growth period all combine to make South Sea pearls the rarest of all pearl types. Found in colours ranging from optic white to deep honey gold, these pearls are prized by collectors and designers alike. The lustre of South Sea pearls, whether white or golden, is soft and luxurious. Only a small percentage of South Sea pearls are spherical and as such, full strands of matched pearls are extremely rare. South Sea pearls are generally much larger than other pearl types and have a unique lustre quality – a soft reflection due to the large aragonite platelets that make up the pearl. These factors make South Sea pearls both distinctive and valuable. South Sea pearls have the highest value and command the highest prices of all types of pearls.

Jewellery // Giulians Photography // Gazi Photography

// INTELLIGENCE

GEM OF THE SEA For centuries pearls have been a symbol of beauty and purity. Today, they are regarded as both classic and contemporary, and come in more styles than your mother’s traditional strand of pearls. Learning about types of pearls is important when adding these items to your jewellery collection.

CREATION Pearls, natural or cultured, are formed when a mollusc produces layers of nacre around an irritant inside its shell. In natural pearls, the irritant may be another organism from the water. In cultured pearls, a mother-of-pearl bead or a piece of tissue is inserted into the mollusc to start the process. The quality of the nacre dictates the quality of the lustre or shine of the pearl, which is very important to its beauty and its value.

APPEARANCE The surface of the pearl should be smooth and free of marks, while the overall shape could be round, oval, pear-shaped or even misshapen. The misshapen pearls are called baroque pearls. Necklaces can be classified as uniform, where all pearls are about the same size, or graduated where the pearls change uniformly from the ends to the centre.

TYPES OF PEARLS Freshwater Pearls These pearls are grown in freshwater lakes, rivers and ponds. Although many are white, they can be produced in various shapes and in an array of pastel colours. Many freshwater pearls don’t have a bead nucleus, only a piece of tissue, which results in a pearl with thicker nacre.

Saltwater Pearls These include the Akoya cultured pearls, which are grown in Japanese and Chinese waters. They range in size from 2mm to 10mm and are usually white or cream in colour and are a round shape. Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines produce the South Sea Pearl, which is the largest of all the pearls. They range in size from 9mm to 20mm and can be naturally white, cream or golden in colour. Natural Pearls These are extremely rare. Historically, many were found in the Persian Gulf but unfortunately today most have already been harvested. You may be able to purchase small, natural pearls but they will be very expensive. Cultured Pearls These are grown in pearl farms. The molluscs are raised until they are old enough to accept the mother-of-pearl bead nucleus. Through a delicate procedure, a technician implants the bead and then the molluscs are returned to the water and cared for while the pearl forms. Not all produce a pearl and not all pearls are high quality, which is why over 10, 000 pearls may be sorted before a 16” single strand of beautifully matched pearls can be assembled.

Necklace // Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

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UNIQUE BEAUTY OF COLOUR Bianca Mangion celebrates the unique beauty of coloured gemstone jewellery.

It begins with the staples that every woman must possess – a sizeable diamond ring (engagement or right hand); simple, elegant diamond studs; a gleaming, cultured pearl necklace; the solid gold bracelet or bangle – but no enviable jewellery collection is complete without a beautiful array of colouredstone pieces to match one’s mood, taste and whimsy. Often these jewels are reflective of the wearer’s unique personality and experiences, making them intensely personal purchases. With a deep appreciation of the joy that jewels can bring to their lives, passionate jewellery aficionados everywhere crave creations that vividly reflect their personal style, personality and life experiences, and nothing expresses individuality more than a precious piece crafted from coloured gemstones. Perhaps this is because coloured gems are available in

an astonishing spectrum of shades, each speaking to the uniqueness of a woman’s personality and each resonating with her accordingly. The colour itself is not important; colour reflects individuality. As Coco Chanel once said, “The best colour in the whole world is the one that looks good on you.” A woman classic in style will be most drawn to the calm clarity of aquamarine, the bold passion of ruby, the mysterious depth of sapphire, the elegant richness of emerald, the spirituality of amethyst, the sunny cheer of citrine, the energising freshness of peridot or the romantic femininity of pink topaz. Those who seek unconventional chic might desire the unrestrained merriment of opal, the wild earthiness of jasper, the honeyed sensuality of amber, the free spirit of turquoise or the soft sweetness of rose quartz.

Jewellery // Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

As Coco Chanel once said, “The best colour in the whole world is the one that looks good on you.

Mark Evans of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery in Maroochydore, Queensland suggests shoppers in search of coloured gemstone jewellery should undertake some research on the gems they fancy. “Whether it be tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds or rubies, there is a vast colour palate of natural and beautiful gemstones available so their choice has to be absolutely correct,” he says. “This means the design has to compliment the choice of gemstones to be used in the piece.” To own a coloured gemstone is to express a certain sense of confidence and self-assurance, a knowing of oneself and one’s place in the world. Possessing a precious, coloured-gemstone adornment also shows success. Like high fashion, precious jewellery expresses a woman’s excellent personal taste; however, it is often much dearer than even a couture garment. When a woman has the means to obtain investment pieces that deviate from the classics and instead select items that express a mood, style or aspect of her personality, it is clear her life is blessed with good fortune. For Evans, coloured stones are an integral part of his showcase and he acknowledges their fashion element: “Coloured gemstones have played a very important part of who we are as a business and of our profile within the jewellery industry in Australia. We constantly

review what’s trending in the Asian and European markets.” Evans predicts that Morganite will be very much on trend over the coming year but may only last another year or so as his clients shift attentions to other gemstones. Coloured stones come in an array of cuts and shapes – smooth and sensual like a cabochon; fun and flirty like a briolette; slender and elongated like a baguette; understatedly elegant like an emerald cut; soft yet bold like a cushion cut. Fusions of various cuts and colours create a story that sparks the imagination and entices the onlooker to learn more. Gems capture beauty as naturally as all women everywhere. As varied, vibrant and bright as a garden full of flowers, coloured gemstones also bare natural inclusions. What a superficial mind may perceive as an imperfection is actually yet another manifestation of individuality. Coloured stones remind us that nature’s beauty is all around. Beautiful women naturally want to surround themselves with this beauty and there’s no greater way than to wear it on their skin. They want others to know their beauty, to see it and then learn more about its richness. Above all, beauty is unique, which is why a woman’s desire to include a rich selection of coloured gemstones in her jewellery collection will always shine brightly.

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DECLARING A

UNION IN STYLE

Jewellery // MDT Image // Tord Johnston

Becoming engaged to the one you love is a beautiful and very personal act, which should be reflected in the jewellery that symbolises this commitment. Bianca Mangion uncovers current trends in menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s engagement rings.

Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

Another way to highlight the engagement band is with precious stones. According to Theochari, around half of all MDT Designs’ male customers include stones in their engagement bands.

A woman’s engagement ring is often traditional and simple in style, allowing the diamond to tell the story while shining its brightest; however, men are not bound by such conventions and can afford to be more liberal with the style of their rings whilst still keeping their pieces timeless. Men’s engagement rings are big business today and, in contrast to the classic solitaire for the girls, guys are somewhat freer to explore the use of textures, tones and stones to create pieces that scream style while also telling the world of their upcoming nuptials. Custom designs herald a shift toward personalisation, which is a trend that MDT Designs workshop manager and sales executive Kosta Theochari is noticing among his clients. The moment Thoechari explains to men their options for enagement rings, his customers usually choose to put an individual spin on their choices. “At first, men think their only options are to purchase something readymade yet this soon changes when we explain everything here is 100 per cent handmade onsite and that modifications can be done,” Theochari explains. “Around 80 per cent of men don’t find exactly what they want on a shelf so they opt to change elements of designs such as the finish, metal tones and adding or removing stones.” The Melbourne-based jeweller attests that simple changes can make for a ring with individuality, something especially to suit the wearer, and rightly so. “A person should not compromise on such an important purchase; generally, custom making a ring for them is the way to go,” he says. MDT’s sales of men’s engagement rings are higher than ever, further indicating men don’t want to miss out on the fun of selecting a beautiful engagement ring for themselves. “There has been a big increase in male engagement rings over the past few years and our stock is growing to keep up with the ideas and concepts that guys like,” Theochari says. “We now have a much larger collection compared to five years ago and, from this collection, our clients get ideas for us to custom design – every person is different and their jewellery should be too.” One popular trend in the category is Mokume Gane, an ancient Japanese technique blending both 18-carat white and yellow gold

or 18-carat white and rose gold. The metal is layered together to give a fluid, natural finish reminiscent of wood grain. The interconnected, two-tone effect is also a symbolic way to reflect the union of two lovers. “Mokume Gane is great for those wanting a two-tone ring with a difference,” Theochari says. Another departure from tradition is the preference for natural white gold without the classic rhodium plating. The natural grey colour of white gold makes for a more industrial looking piece that appeals to men, according to Theochari. It’s important for men’s engagement rings to look masculine and strong whilst still being opulent enough for such a grand commitment. The desired effect is often achieved through the finish of modern men’s engagement rings. Gone is the era where a polished gold band was all on offer. “Many men are choosing to have their ring in an emery or brushed finish, along with black rhodium plating in grooves and etchings on the ring,” Theochari reports. “The darker colour works well when combined with traditional coloured metals like white, rose or yellow gold.” “Over the years there has been an increase in men’s jewellery with diamonds but they often prefer a coloured diamond, such as blue, black or pink, compared to the more traditional white diamond,” he says. Styles are getting fancier and more detailed but men are still consciously seeking timelessness also. “More men are liking the idea of customising their rings to be different to the more traditional styles while still combining traditional elements so it doesn’t look too crazy on their fingers in 50 years. An example is having a half-round, simple band with grooves running through the ring and a central diamond,” Theochari details. With good fortune, a men’s engagement ring will be worn throughout a lifetime to symbolise a strong, solid union. The ring should be reflective of this partnership, whilst also expressing the individuality of the wearer. It’s lucky then that modern couples have a bevy of creative customisation options right at their fingertips.

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WEDDING COLLECTIONS

Rings // Creations Jewellers

6 wise tips to remember when selecting your wedding accessories.

Necklace // Jason Ree

DON’T UPSTAGE THE DRESS

WORK WITH YOUR SKIN TONE

Don’t get carried away with layers of extravagant

Remember that different metals suit different skin

jewels, the focus should remain on your dress. Apply

tones. What looked amazing on your fair-toned friend

the advice of ‘less is more’ in this situation. Your

may not translate on an olive complexion. If you’re

accessories should complement your dress, not

not sure what works for your tone, ask a jeweller -

overpower it.

they have a wealth of experience and knowledge in this area.

AVOID TRENDS a fluorescent highlighter. When it comes to your

DON’T BUY ACCESSORIES BEFORE THE DRESS

wedding style, avoid trends. While it may seem

This is a steadfast rule and should be strictly adhered

enticing to copy the latest catwalk trends you need

to. Accessories are the icing on the cake, not the

to keep in mind that these are seasonal. What is on

entire cake! It’s impossible to know whether a single

trend in spring will be old news by summer. Your

strand of pearls or diamond drop earrings will work

wedding pictures will last a lifetime and you don’t

with your dress if you have no idea if it’ll be a high

want to cringe over your fashion choices for years to

neck or deep V neckline. To be safe, hold off on

come. Choose something that is flattering for your

accessories shopping until you’ve paid the deposit on

figure and is a classic style, that way you won’t be

your gown.

Circle this piece of advice and then go over it in

able to put a foot wrong.

THINK BEYOND THE BIG DAY

CONSIDER COLOURED ACCESSORIES

If you’re going to purchase new accessories

It’s easy to get swept up in neutral tones when it

for your wedding, try and think of it as a long-term

comes to your big day attire. Neutral tones go with

investment. Choose pieces that are true to your

everything, are timeless and look elegant. However

style so you’ll be happy to wear them again after the

they can also be limiting. Don’t pigeonhole yourself;

big day. If the idea of wearing your special wedding

give yourself a wide berth to include coloured

jewellery on a regular day doesn’t sit right with

accessories as well. After all, a sparkling sapphire

you, try saving them as sentimental pieces to wear

could be exactly what you need to enhance your eyes

on anniversaries.

or add life to your ivory gown.

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YOUR ‘I DO’ DIAMOND

Rings // Xennox Diamonds

We navigate the rules of engagement to arm you on your search for the perfect ring.

THE FOUR CS Before you start out on your all-important search it’s imperative you familiarise yourselves with the Four Cs of diamond dealing. The quality over quantity principal also applies when putting a ring on it. For example, you could risk buying an enormous rock that may not have half the quality of a smaller one at the same price. So let’s cut to it! Colour: When it comes to colour, less is more and the whiter the diamond, the better. Most diamonds within a reasonable price will range from white to yellow. Determined through a range of alphabets D, E and F refer to colourless (white) diamonds, while G, H, I and J are nearly colourless according to the GIA colour grades. A perfect white diamond should be crystal clear – the less yellow or brown streaks visible the more rare and valuable a diamond is. Clarity: Clarity is the measure of the number of blemishes (external defects) and inclusions (internal defects) of a stone. An S11 or S12 diamond has inclusions or blemishes larger than a grain of salt when viewed under 10-power magnification. Whilst nearly all diamonds contain flaws, it’s important to determine there aren’t enough flaws to seriously lessen its value. Though on the positive, diamond flaws are as unique as a fingerprint and can be used as identifiers. Carat: A diamond’s weight is measured in carats (not to be confused with karat, which indicates gold’s purity). A carat is equivalent to a fifth of a gram or exactly 200 milligrams. They are weighed using a precision scale, as mere fractions of a carat can mean the difference between hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Cut: The cut refers to the workmanship of a diamond and the manner in which it’s polished and shaped to give it its brilliance and fire. Not to be confused with a diamond’s shape, a stone’s cut or make refers to the number, placement and shape of the facets that create a finished diamond. A gem cutter sculpts the diamond’s many facets with geometric precision; symmetrically arranging them to affect the way light travels through the stone. A poorly cut diamond will ‘leak’ light out the back and some cutting ‘faults’ can even make a diamond prone to breaking.

SET FOR SUCCESS A setting refers to way in which a stone is held in place within a ring. The best types of settings are those that secure your sparkler whilst maximising the entry of light into the diamond. Claw: Also known as prong, four to six metal claws are used to hold the stone in place. Claws can be thick or thin and are an excellent way to show off a diamond because they allow the entire gem to be seen and maximum light to shine through. Bezel: A bezel-set diamond is completely surrounded by a border of metal, framing the stone from the outside edge. The bezel is highly protective of the diamond’s girdle and more suitable for hard daily wear than more exposed settings.

Channel: A neat method of setting a collection of smaller diamonds into the band of the ring, creating a uniform flow of sparkle. Two metal support strips are also set flush with the stones, providing a smooth all-over surface that won’t catch or snag. Bar: A variation of the channel setting in which diamonds are held in place by tiny metal bars running perpendicular to the rings band. Bar settings protect the girdle of the stone but leave the top and bottom exposed to allow more light to enter. Flush: This setting generally involves a prominent centre stone with smaller diamonds embedded into the band (flush set) on either side. Tension: Contemporary in ring design, the stone appears to float. Instead of claws the entire ring acts as one large spring, holding the diamond in place and creating an unobstructed view of the stone. It allows maximum viewing, but is not as secure and should be regularly checked. Pavé: Tiny metal beads hold each stone in its own setting, literally paving the metal with small diamonds. Stones are cobbled into the surface of the ring band through a combination of tapered holes and/or tiny claws to hold the stones in place. Invisible: A variation on the bar setting, diamonds in an invisible setting are placed so tightly together no metal shows between them. The stones are actually cut to interlock with each other in a dazzling array of uniformity. Semi-mounting: If you already have a stone, semi-mounting is a great option. Semi-mounting can be purchased ready-made with a space for your stone.

METAL MATTERS When it comes to the wedding band you’ve got a variety of metals to choose from. Platinum is a popular choice, as is gold, which comes in a variety of colours, including white, yellow, rose and even green. The majority of fine wedding jewellery is made from 18-karat gold, which uses small amounts of gold alloy to strengthen it for daily wear; 18-karat white gold for example, contains 18-parts pure gold and six-parts alloy. Different alloys are used to achieve different gold colours and the greater percentage of alloy, the lower the gold’s karat. Platinum has also long been a popular choice. It’s extremely durable and especially pure, making it a great hypoallergenic choice for brides and grooms. Though it’s important to note platinum can be softer than 18-karat gold, which means it might require more attention due to general wear and tear. It’s recommended you have your wedding ring and engagement ring designed to complement each other. Opting for the same gold metal, and/or gold karat will not only ensure they match, but avoid having to tend to them down the track due to rubbing and ongoing wear and tear. It’s also worth noting metals wear differently, so you could end up with two very different looking rings in just a few years.

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Rings // Xennox Diamonds

Avoid wearing your diamonds while doing housework, yard work or any other kind of rough work. Even though a diamond is extremely durable, a hard blow could chip it, and when doing household chores, never allow your jewellery to come into contact with chlorine bleach.

Rings // Minzenmay

ROMANCING THE STONE When it comes to selecting a gemstone for an engagement ring, the diamond remains the most popular choice because of its rarity, durability, strength and value. Adding to their attractiveness in wedding jewellery, general signs of wear and tear such as small scratches are much less noticeable in white diamonds. For those who prefer a less traditional approach or perhaps a splash of colour sapphire and ruby are also popular choices and tend to be most suitable for engagement rings. Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge sports a blue sapphire. These are both very hard gemstones that can stand up to daily wear and tear better than other softer gemstones.

BUYER BEWARE It’s important to look for diamonds that are procured from authorised sources and validated through the Kimberley Process, an international certification process that uses strict requirements to control the production of rough diamonds and prevent illicit stones from entering the legitimate diamond trade. Conflict or ‘blood’ diamonds are diamonds sourced and traded through illegal means in order to fund conflict. The Diamond Guild Australia (DGA) comprises various quality retailers around Australia. These members operate long established businesses with a history of fair

trade and reliability. At these locations you can purchase diamonds fully compliant with the Kimberley Process, (for more information head to www.diamondguild.com.au). Additionally, loose diamonds should be graded by an internationally respected grading entity such as the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), so both you and your fiancée can feel confident about both the social responsibility and quality of your purchase.

INSURE YOUR RING Before slipping that ring on your finger it’s important to have it insured. Whilst the grading report for your stone offers a significant amount of information about the characteristics of your diamond, you’ll want to have the value of your ring appraised in order to establish insurance coverage. You may even want to consider re-appraising the ring every few years.

TIP – CLEANING YOUR DIAMOND Fill a cup with equal parts cold water and ammonia. Soak jewellery for half an hour, then remove and gently work around the setting with a soft toothbrush. Swish in the solution and leave to dry.

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SOMETHING BLUE

Images 1-4 & 6-11 // Tord Johnston Image 5 // Anthony Masci

1 //

We all know the traditional adage of something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue. Shine on your big day with these exquisite pieces that will complement your gown and tick off the something blue criteria at the same time. Whether it’s something fine and delicate or a show-stopping statement piece, you’ll find something to ignite your imagination. The psychology behind the colour blue centres on trust, honesty and loyalty. Known for being a conservative colour, blue is thought to reflect sincerity while remaining reserved and quiet, exhibiting an inner security and confidence. Blue is a colour that seeks peace and tranquillity above all else, making it ideal for stressful situations (such as weddings) where the colour can promote both physical and mental relaxation. It’s known for reducing stress, creating a sense of calmness, relaxation and order. According to colour psychology, the paler the blue the more freedom one feels – similar to the feeling one gets when lying on their back staring at a blue cloudless sky. The colour blue is idealistic, enhancing self-expression and our ability to communicate our needs and wants. It inspires higher ideals. Blue’s wisdom comes from its higher level of intelligence, a spiritual perspective. Blue is reliable: the helper and the rescuer. It is a giver, not a taker and nurtures strong, trusting relationships. It is universally the most liked colour of all, most likely due to its safe and non-threatening nature. Blue is nostalgic. It is a colour that lives in the past, relating everything in the present and the future to experiences in the past.

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Opposite page: 1 // Catanach's Jewellery 2 & 3 // Minzenmay 4 // Ian Sharp 5 // Mark Evans Fine Jewellery This page: 6 - 11 // Catananach's Jewellers

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All Images // Sotheby's Hong Kong

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STONES OF HEAVEN In the West, diamonds, rubies and emeralds were the expensive gemstones worn by aristocrats as status symbols, but in China, it was jade that was regarded as a status symbol. Nowadays, jade has become a favourite for an increasing number of collectors and investors. By Melissa Pearce. The mysterious glow and colour of jade have cast a spell on its wearers for centuries in China, with Empress Dowager Cixi, who drank from a jade cup and ate with gold chopsticks, stoking her subjects’ desire for the regal stone to a crescendo during the 19th century. More than a 100 years later, many traditional jade motifs remain as covetable as they were then and are certainly the safe choice if you are looking to acquire a piece that will appreciate, but there is a contemporary take on jade that is earning the attention of a younger audience. Jade is the term for two gem materials, jadeite and nephrite, and jadeite is the most commonly type of jade utilised in today’s jewellery design market. Traditionally the most popular shapes have been peapods, bead necklaces, bangles and Huaigu earrings with their implied auspicious associations with prosperity, many offspring, eternity and protection. The Cabouchon cutting style has also long been a standard treatment, with a combination of jadeite with pink tourmaline and some pearls a classic setting. Terry Chu, Director, China and Southeast Asia, Deputy Head of Jewellery Department, Sotheby’s Hong Kong, handles some amazing jadeite collections and describes the enduring appeal of the Huaigu earrings: “The design is so simple but it still looks so great.

The jadeite talks to you; you can see the light come through.” Translucency and colour are keys to jadeite’s value and contemporary approaches to jade have seen colour preferences among younger customers in the last decade move to something more strong in colour – like a bright, vivid emerald or apple green – as opposed to more mature tones of deep green, as well as the use of icy jadeite, lavender and black shades. These newer last three colours tend to be more affordable jadeite for emerging jewellers to work with but also suit Hong Kong’s stylemakers’ often monotone sartorial palette. Perhaps the most interesting jadeite design is one that expresses an intersection of the traditional and the modern. Chu cites a necklace that Stephen Webster produced in collaboration with Sotheby’s Hong Kong several years ago as a winning mix of the old and new. Webster arranged delicate jadeite Cabouchons in a free and random way that gave the necklace a very natural flow. Other designers in Hong Kong are taking a more architectural vantage point to break with the past. Peter Baer is originally from Switzerland, where he began his career in jewellery as a goldsmith, and has been living in Hong for over three decades. His first jadeite job came in 15 years ago, a reworking of an elaborate family heirloom

Image // Sotheby's Hong Kong

to make it more wearable. He soon realised there was a need for more modern jadeite design and his aesthetic is very angular and perhaps not always the easiest concept to sell to Chinese customers when feng shui discourages odd angles. His sharp-lined, dramatic statement rings encapsulate his passion for working with jadeite. “Jade has an enormous amount of possibilities and we are experimenting with a cutting procedure to make use of the translucency and to increase the effect of the cut.” Connie Lai is a Hong Kong based jewellery designer for Samuel Kung, a leading jade jewellery designer and founder and director of the Museum of Cont emporary Art Shanghai. Kung’s striking boutique in the IFC Mall in Central embodies a high end ‘East meets West’ driving spirit. Lai herself has received jewellery training in France and has a personal interest in Perspex as a material in her private work. She also refers to the mysterious nature of jade and the fact that no two pieces are the same and there is an infinity variety of greens. “Jade is rewarding to work because it’s unique with but it’s not without its challenges, with surface drawing presenting some difficulties.” Jadeite is no longer an exclusively Chinese market either. Chu sees an increasing number of Western collectors, with quite a few big jadeite items in the last few years actually purchased by North American and European buyers. Recently, for example Sotheby’s sold a jadeite bangle, with an estimate of around HK$6 million, for over HK$11.6 million, to a Westerner following a bidding war with a Hong Kong customer.

DID YOU KNOW? 1

Ancient Chinese believed jade articles could dispel devils and bring good luck.

The colour of jade is the most important factor but translucency and texture are important criteria determining price.

Traditionally, many Chinese family heirlooms have at least one piece of jade in their trove, often a jade bangle passed down from mother to daughter.

Jadeite is more rare than nephrite and therefore regarded as more precious. The most valuable jade is imperial jade.

In the West, emerald green, spinach green and apple green are regarded as particularly valuable. In the Far East, on the other hand, pure white or a fine yellow with a delicate pink undertone is highly esteemed.

// INTELLIGENCE

When you involve yourself in the world market for precious gems, and for diamonds in particular, you only have one choice. That choice is a commitment to excellence, with no compromises.

Jewellery // Australian Chocolate Diamonds

Brett Bolton - Managing Director of Australian Chocolate Diamonds

BEAUTY RICH AND RARE When it comes to commodity, one cannot always anticipate the tipping points of trends in the global marketplace. Supply and demand certainly bring their leverage, as do perceptions of value. In the realm of human interactions, popularity often turns into celebrity with a trending Instagram post or viral Youtube video. Then there is that other kind of success- developed through a tradition of excellence, devotion to high standards and a sense of finding the curves of fashion and knowing how to ride them. This is what commonly occurs in the realms of luxury design, classic art and the timeless treasures of jewellery. This has certainly become the case for Australian Chocolate Diamonds who have transitioned from a lesser deity in the global domain of gemstones to a sought after diamond for collectors, designers and consumers who appreciate the richness and beauty hidden in our Australian Earth. Australian Chocolate Diamonds are bridging the gap between traditional white diamond rings and other precious gemstone jewellery and are the perfect choice for consumers looking to offset a beautiful chocolate diamond with traditional ‘whites.’ The range is a collection of diverse captivating colours graded against the Argyle colour grading scale, which ranges from C1 (lightest) to C7 (deep chocolate). Creating the Australian Chocolate Diamond has been a true labour of love. The first 20 diamonds took 3 months and the results were underwhelming. The diamonds were cut very well, all Hearts and Arrows and graded triple EX by GIA standards, but there was still more within the stone. After much deliberation, ACD realised they had been looking at the rough from the wrong angle. It was about cutting for colour and capturing the fire within the stone. Where white diamonds are cut to mask their colour, Australian Chocolate Diamonds are specifically cut to enhance their natural colour and unique characteristics. After employing master diamond cutters to learn the rough diamond and adapt their cutting technique, the results were all they had hoped for and more. Every diamond not only had the depth of colour they were looking for, but also the fire they were missing. With the first stone off the polishing wheel, they knew that Australian Chocolate Diamonds were finally ready to make the impact they deserved. Today Australian Chocolate Diamonds has over 170 stockists across Australia and New Zealand with an extensive inventory. Australian Chocolate Diamonds are now available from 0.01ct to 5.00ct+ either loose or set in a large collection of jewellery in an array of metal colours and designs. The Australian Chocolate Diamond “Birth Certificate” acts as a guarantee that the gem you are investing in is an authentic, home grown Australian Argyle Diamond mined from the red earth of the Australian Kimberley Region of Western Australia. Independent grading gives you the confidence that you are purchasing a natural diamond at the specific colour, clarity and cut that you have been

promised. This is complemented with a “My Diamond Story” whereby each diamonds rough weight, Argyle lot number, colour, clarity and polished weight is recorded. This, along with a laser inscription on the girdle, is supplied for Australian Chocolate Diamonds with a weight of or over 0.50ct. Australian Chocolate Diamonds are a blend of natural and humancrafted beauty that one must see in person to truly appreciate.

A NOTE FROM THE JEWELLERS… “Customers love a good story and want an Australian diamond. Most customers have never seen this product and are surprised at how reasonable the value is for the diamond sizes.” Judy Brett Hall- Everts Fine Jewellery “Our customers are unique, just like the ACD brand, and they love the story that is attached to each and every ACD stone we sell. We always have customers who come in that are looking for something that is Australian, and can’t be purchased anywhere else in the world- this is why ACD is perfect!” Bevan Hill- Jewellery by Design “Our customers fall in love with the colour. The designs are also interesting and varied, and cater for a wide range of tastes. It is wonderful to own a beautiful piece of ancient Australia." Chris Holdsworth- Holdsworth Bros Jewellers “The Argyle mine is already known to many thanks to the success of its pink diamonds. This, combined with it being tucked away in our little corner of the world, instils confidence in the product.” Gail Bowering - jd Jewellery Design, NZ “Customers respond to Australian Chocolate Diamonds because of their inherent beauty, rich tones and obvious quality. The idea of having something a little different really appeals to many of our customers. This coupled with the fact that Australian Chocolate Diamonds are ethically sourced and close to home.” Brent White- The Ringmakers, NZ “Customers now have come to expect certifications and identification of product origins. Australian Chocolate Diamonds gives them the confidence and assurance in knowing exactly where their product is coming from.” Robert Cliff- Robert Cliff Master Jewellers

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RIO GRANDE ANNOUNCES WINNERS OF

2018 SAUL BELL DESIGN AWARD COMPETITION

Jewellery // “Origami – Window with a View Collection” Sophia Hu

At a celebration dinner held on May 20, during the Santa Fe Symposium® in Albuquerque, NM, Rio Grande announced the winners of the 18th annual Saul Bell Design Award competition. In this international competition, finalists were selected from hundreds of entries, submitted by designers from countries around the world. The work in these pieces epitomizes the very best of the jewelry industry in creativity, design and fabrication. From this work, through two rounds of rigorous judging, experts drawn from across the jewelry industry chose a best-of-show and first- and second-place winners from designs submitted in nine competitive categories. Prizes, awards and congratulations were presented to each winning designer at a gala dinner and celebration event. The winning designs, as well as all finalist pieces, are featured online at saulbellaward.com with downloadable, high-resolution photos of each entry available as well.

“In the 17 years I've been with Rio Grande, it’s been an honor to see so many talented designers rise to the challenge of creating awe-inspiring pieces and to hear their stories of creation,” said Rio Grande Creative Director Jamie Gros. Since launching in 2001, the Saul Bell Design Award has become one of the most sought-after prizes for jewelers and metalsmiths worldwide. For information about the 2018 Saul Bell Design Award competition, designers are invited to visit saulbellaward.com, email events@riogrande.com or call 800.952.6222. Rio Grande thanks the dedicated judges—and all the jewelry makers who put their designs in front of these industry experts to be seen, evaluated and recognized—and congratulates each of the winners and finalists, whose work rose to a level of creativity that, as always, is breathtaking.

// INTELLIGENCE

Silver/Argentium® Silver “Venus of Willendorf” by Paul Bundarin (Jackson Heights, NY, USA) “Khephir” by Travis Martin (Milwaukie, OR, USA) “Worldview” by Allison Ice (Chesterfield, MO, USA) Enamel “North American Owls” by Jill Tower (Irvine, CA, USA) “The Wisteria Bower” by Kelly Morgen (San Rafael, CA, USA) “Testa” by Gill Cordiner (Perth, Western Australia, Australia)

THE 2018 SAUL BELL DESIGN AWARD COMPETITION WINNERS: Best of Show: Sophia Hu “Origami – Window with a View Collection” Las Vegas, NV, USA Gold/Platinum Category: First Place - Garen Garibian “Mata Hari” Los Angeles, CA, USA Second Place - Rosario Garcia “Freedom” Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA Silver/Argentium® Silver Category: First Place- Matthieu Cheminée “Itado” Montreal, QC, Canada Second Place - Caroline Rivière “Koral” Longueuil, QC, Canada Enamel Category: First Place - Carina Wong “Leaping Tree Frog” Hong Kong Second Place - Sinork Agdere “The Dragonfly” Los Angeles, CA, USA Hollowware/Art Objects Category: First Place - Jason Baide “Cheap Thrills” Bozeman, MT, USA Second Place - Leonardo Maldonado “Fantasy Coach” Delray Beach, FL, USA Alternative Metals/Materials Category: First Place - Gabri Schumacher “Head in the Clouds” Schoonhoven, The Netherlands Second Place - E. Douglas Wunder “Orchid Neckpiece” Kutztown, PA, USA

Jewelry Collection – Couture/Fine Category: First Place - Wolfgang Vaatz “Rocky Mountains Memories” Rio Rico, AZ, USA Second Place - Zoltan David “Knightsteel” Bee Cave, TX, USA Jewelry Collection – Fashion/Bridge Category: First Place - Kwabena Abeney “The Wave Collection” Burnaby, BC, Canada Second Place - Liz Sabol “Dreamweaver” Pittsburgh, PA, USA Emerging Jewelry Artist – 22 Years of Age and Younger Category: First Place - Hoi Yi Lai “Courage” Toronto, ON, Canada Second Place - Taron Rueger “Goya” Lake George, CO, USA Emerging Jewelry Artist – 18 Years of Age and Younger Category: First Place - Peyton Rogers “Waterfall” Fort Worth, TX, USA Second Place - Caroline Senyszyn “Fairy Necklace” Fort Worth, TX, USA 2018 FINALISTS Gold/Platinum “Lotus in the Pond (Renaissance)” by Kajal Naina SherchanRai (Hong Kong) “Meteor Engagement Ring Set” by Greg Neeley (Georgetown, TX, USA) “Irony” by Ruben Zhitnik (Mayfield Heights, OH, USA)

Hollowware/Art Objects “A Little Nonsense” by Janet Huddie (Crownsville, MD, USA) “Fan Club” by Susan Coddon (Atlanta, GA, USA) “Soumbedioune” by Matthieu Cheminée (Montreal, QC, Canada) Alternative Metals/Materials “Ipomoea” by Elysha Roberts (Vineyard Haven, MA, USA) “Green Dragon” by Ricardo Basta (Los Angeles, CA, USA) “Art D'Eco—Motif Pendant” by David Alvarado (Los Angeles, CA, USA) Jewelry Collection Couture/Fine “Art D'Eco (Decoratif d' Ecologie)Decorative Ecological Art” by David Alvarado (Los Angeles, CA, USA) “Precious Time” by Kate Hubley (Montreal, QC, Canada) “The White Daisy Set” by Pavit Gujral (Chandigarh, India) Jewelry Collection Fashion/Bridge “Vortex” by Leonid Krykhtin & Meng Zhang (London, UK) “Lava Pearl Series” by Dawn Teasdale (Winnipeg, MB, Canada) Emerging Jewelry Artist – 22 Years of Age or Younger “The Unseen Seen” by Cecilia Zhu (Providence, RI, USA) “We Must Carry the Weight” by Tyler Kane (Brooklyn, NY, USA) “Balance” by Cassidy Terry (New York, NY, USA) Emerging Jewelry Artist – 18 Years of Age or Younger “Discrete Extravagance” by Gregory Augustin (Beau Bassin, Plaine Wilhems, Mauritius) “Think About It” by Rowan Zinn (Fort Worth, TX, USA) “Tangential Rings” by Emma Petrovich (Wellesley, MA, USA)

// DESIGN AWARDS

2019 AUSTRALIAN

JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS WERE LAUNCHED IN 2017 AND THIS UNIQUE NEW NATIONAL COMPETITION IS OPEN TO ALL AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERS. ALL ENTRIES ARE REQUIRED TO BE ORIGINAL PIECES OF AUSTRALIAN-MADE AND DESIGNED JEWELLERY. IN OUR INAUGURAL YEAR WE WERE VERY PLEASED TO RECEIVE A TOTAL OF SIXTY ENTRIES FROM ACROSS AUSTRALIA, AND THE DIVERSITY IN DESIGN WAS A DIAMOND DEALER’S DELIGHT. LAST YEARS ENTRIES RUN THE FULL GAMUT OF ARTISTRY AND CREATIVITY, HIGHLIGHTING NOT ONLY TECHNICAL PRECISION AND ADHERENCE TO DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS BUT ALSO DELVING DEEPLY INTO THE IMAGINATION AND INVENTIVENESS WE’VE COME TO EXPECT FROM AUSTRALIA’S WORLD-CLASS JEWELLERY DESIGN INDUSTRY. FROM AN ULTRA-HIGH-PRESTIGE PINK DIAMOND PENDANT SUBMITTED BY LEONARDS JEWELLERS TO A REMARKABLE ‘BRICK’ DESIGN RING, INSPIRED BY TASMANIA’S NASCENT BEGINNINGS AS A CONVICT PENAL COLONY, BY MELISSA BALDOCK. THE 2017 ENTRIES WERE EXCEPTIONAL, REMARKABLE AND INSPIRING, THESE MANY AND DIVERSE SUBMISSIONS STANDING ALOFT AS A STUNNING CATALOGUE OF OUR DOWN UNDER DESIGN CAPABILITIES. IN THE JUDGING FOR THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS, INNOVATION IS ESSENTIAL, AND OUR PANEL OF HIGHLY EXPERIENCED JUDGES ASSESS ALL PIECES BASED UPON FIVE CRITERIA: ORIGINALITY, DESIGN, COMPLEXITY, WEARABILITY AND IMPACT IT IS WITH CONSIDERABLE EXCITEMENT THAT WE NOW SHOWCASE THE MANY TRULY EXCEPTIONAL ENTRIES SUBMITTED TO THE 2019 AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS.

On The Wing Award winning necklace. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver, faceted blue quartz.

OUTRIGHT WINNER FOR 2019 DEBBIE SHEEZEL Media Ink is very pleased to announce that Debbie Sheezel is the outright winner of the 2019 Australian Jewellery Design Awards. The winning piece “On The Wing” has previously won a first place category in the Saul Bell Design Awards (USA) and our panel of six judges unanimously awarded this unique vitreous enamel butterfly necklace to be our overall winner for 2019. “Because I began my career as a painter/artist then moved into jewellery, I consider my enamels as wearable art and totally individual. Unique, one-of-a-kind pieces are for the collector or wearer who likes individuality. They are completely made by hand and take many hours to achieve the perfection of the end result.” Debbie Sheezel

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2019 AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

Congratulations to all of our category winners

DEBBIE SHEEZEL CATEGORY: ENAMEL Piece name: On the Wing Design: Handmade Value: POA

ALISTAIR KELSEY JEWELLERY CATEGORY: ALL RINGS (UP TO $5,000) Piece name: Solace Design: CAD Assist Value: $2,990

BIRON LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS CATEGORY: ALL RINGS (OVER $5,000) Piece name: Fanfair Design: CAD Assist Value: $18,900

KENNEDY JEWELLERS Don Kennedy

CATEGORY: EARRINGS (OVER $5,000) Piece name: Suspended Motion Design: Handmade Value: $29,500

GERARD MCCABE JEWELLERS

CREATIONS JEWELLERS

CATEGORY: ENGAGEMENT RINGS (UP TO $5,000)

CATEGORY: ENGAGEMENT RINGS (OVER $5,000)

Piece name: Trinity Rose Solitaire Diamond Engagement Ring

Piece name: The Continuem Ring

Design: CAD Assist Value: $4,895

DESMA DESIGNS JEWELLERY Desma Noble

CATEGORY: PENDANT (UP TO $5,000) Piece name: Love Knot of the Sorceress

Design: Handmade Value: $22,000

GERARD MCCABE JEWELLERS CATEGORY: PENDANT (OVER $5,000) Piece name: Echunga Christmas Rush Pendant

Design: Handmade

Design: Handmade & CAD Assist

Value: $4,750

Value: $9,495

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS

MAGNOLIA DESIGNS

CATEGORY: PINK DIAMOND

CATEGORY: PEARLS (UP TO $5,000)

Piece name: The Pink Lowanna

Ben Preston-Black

Magnolia Howard

Piece name: Serra

Design: Handmade

Value: $1,450,000

Value: $3,460

MATTHEWS JEWELLERS

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

CATEGORY: PEARLS (OVER $5,000)

CATEGORY: MEN’S ENGAGEMENT RINGS (OVER $5,000)

Leah Abercrombie

Piece name: Winter Tide Design: Handmade Value: $9,995

Nick de Klerk

Piece name: Alpha Centauri Design: Handmade Value: $114,730.00

JASON REE

CATEGORY: OPALS (UP TO $5,000)

CATEGORY: NECKLACES (UP TO $5,000)

Piece name: Juxtapose Opal Ring

Piece name: Sakura Pendant

Design: Handmade Value: $5,000

KENNEDY JEWELLERS Vanessa Kennedy

CATEGORY: NECKLACES (OVER $5,000) Piece name: Ode to India Design: Handmade

Design: Handmade Value: $4,900

MINZENMAY

Bridie Minzenmay and Marlee Horobin CATEGORY: ACCESSORIES (UP TO $5,000) Piece name: The Elephant

Value: $67,200

Design: CAD Assist

RJ PEARCE DESIGNER JEWELLERS

MINZENMAY

Robert Pearce

CATEGORY: ACCESSORIES (OVER $5,000) Piece name: Nouveau Anniversary Pendant Design: Handmade & CAD Assist Value: $9,800

Value: POA

Paul Minzenmay CATEGORY: BRIDAL JEWELLERY (OVER $5,000) Piece name: Effloresce Artisan Cuff Design: Handmade Value: POA

RALF FISCH FINE JEWELLERY

THE EROTIC JEWELLERY CO

Ralf Fisch

Paul Amey

CATEGORY: MEN’S JEWELLERY

CATEGORY: ART PIECE

Piece name: Lumberjack Design: Handmade Value: $2,500

Piece name: Chopsticks on Rest Design: Handmade Value: $182,000

ARKION BOUTIQUE INVESTMENTS

MN JEWELLERY DESIGN

CATEGORY: THE DIAMOND AWARD

CATEGORY: DIRECTORS CUT AWARD

Piece name: “Hati Merah Muda” Heart Earrings

Piece name: Hiddenite Dress Ring

Design: Handmade

Value: $79,750

Value: $7,500

Matthew Neale

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

FITZGERALD CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $10,900 Inspired and named after the famous 1920s flapper dancer, Zelda Fitzgerald, a women who portrayed strength and femininity. 18ct White Gold, 0.25ct Champagne Diamonds, F/G/VS, 0.60ct White Diamonds, 0.40ct tapered Baguettes, 14mm A2 Grade Australian South Sea Pearl.

ADINA JOZSEF Suite 209 250 Pitt Street, Sydney NSW 2000 P: 02 9267 0122 E: adina@adinajozsef.com.au adinajozsef.com.au 63

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ENVY CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $15,780 Precision cut Australian sapphire and diamond in 18ct white gold, with a mixture of black, white and natural tones.

ALISTAIR KELSEY JEWELLERY P: 0421 591 732 E: mail@alistairkelsey.com Instagram: @alistairkelseyjewellery alistairkelsey.com 65

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SOLACE CATEGORY: All Rings (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $2,990 Precision cut brown zircon grasped by sweeping arms of 18ct yellow gold with burnt tips.

ALISTAIR KELSEY JEWELLERY P: 0421 591 732 E: mail@alistairkelsey.com Instagram: @alistairkelseyjewellery alistairkelsey.com 67

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

“HATI MERAH MUDA” HEART EARRINGS CATEGORY: Earrings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $79,750 We have named these earrings “Hati Merah Muda” which is Indonesian and means “Pink Heart” in English. These earrings are very special to Arkion as it is our own design and took over six months to design and make these earrings. The earrings are made from platinum and 18K rose gold with matching pairs - heart shaped diamonds totalling 0.55ct (0.26ct Heart (5P-SI1 Argyle) and Fancy Intense Pink VS2 GIA certified. 0.29ct Heart (5P-SI1 Argyle) and Fancy Intense Pink SI2 GIA certified). Above them you have matching smaller heart shaped pink diamonds totalling 0.13ct (0.06ct Heart Fancy Intense Purple/Pink VVS2 GIA certified, Argyle origin. 0.07ct Heart Fancy Intense Purple/Pink SI2 GIA certified, Argyle origin). There are also round brilliant diamonds set around totalling 0.15ct.

ARKION BOUTIQUE INVESTMENTS P: 0414 588 561 E: joshua@arkion.com.au arkion.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

RENAISSANCE CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade, CAD Assist | VALUE: $50,000 18ct White Gold Ring, with a 1.1ct VS1 D colour round brilliant centre diamond and 150 1pt, 2pt and 5pt white round brilliant diamonds VS D colour. Accented with 2x 4PP 0.05ct Argyle Pink Diamonds set in 18ct rose gold. Named “Renaissance”, I was inspired by the jewellery between 14-16 centuries, in particular the wealthy Roman women who had the courage to wear the large rosette style clothing. The accuracy of the symmetry and curved lines in this era is a style I really resonate with and love to emulate in my designs.

ARTELIA JEWELLERY MARIA ULAS

Westfield Fountain Gate 25 - 55 Overland Drive, Narre Warren VIC 3805 P: 03 8790 1428 E: maria@artelia.com.au artelia.com.au 71

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

CAMBRIDGE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $19,500 This timeless design features a 2.12ct C5 Si1 Australian Chocolate Diamond nestled between two GVS brilliant white kite diamonds equalling a TDW of 0.71ct. The detailed craftsmanship of this setting resembles the structural design of a bridge.

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS E: info@acdiamonds.com.au acdiamonds.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

EMPIRE CATEGORY: Pendant | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $12,900 A beacon of cultivated taste, this regal Empire pendant continues the tradition of intricate design that highlighs the centre Australian Chocolate Diamond. This Argyle Chocolate Diamond is graded C4 Si2 and weighs an impressive 1.74ct. Brilliant whites diamonds with a TDW of 0.35ct are delicately set in 18ct white and yellow gold to complete the piece.

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS E: info@acdiamonds.com.au acdiamonds.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

GOLDEN TWIST CATEGORY: All Rings (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $4,900 A versatile design featuring a brilliant 0.64ct C7 Si2 Australian Chocolate Diamond encased with an array of GHSI white diamonds equalling a TDW of 0.31ct. The centre yellow gold ring can be removed and worn alone or teamed with the Australian Chocolate Diamond ring to make a two toned impact.

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS E: info@acdiamonds.com.au acdiamonds.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MAVERICK CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $17,900 A natural Argyle Australian Chocolate Diamond, graded C5 VVS2, at an astonishing 2.14ct sits proudly in the centre of this intricate design. This chocolate diamond is complemented with two pink Argyle diamonds and 0.52ct of brilliant white diamonds in a double shank with a twist.

AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE DIAMONDS E: info@acdiamonds.com.au acdiamonds.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

FANFAIR CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $18,900 An impressive 1.50ct Biron Laboratory Grown Diamond, graded F Si1, is the focal point of this head-turning piece. The fan design consists of seven pink Biron Laboratory Grown Diamonds equalling a TDW of 0.636cts and an amazing 109 Biron Laboratory Grown white diamonds at a TDW of 1.173cts. This ring is just over 3.30cts of scintillation from every angle.

BIRON LABORATORY GROWN DIAMONDS E: info@biron.com.au biron.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

AMOR TELAM CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $9,500 One only handmade 18ct white gold multi coloured diamond ring. The ring features a web like design and has an Argyle Pink, Yellow, Blue and white diamonds scattered throughout the piece. The ring contains 0.05mct Argyle pink Diamond 5P in colour with a SI clarity, 0.06mct Argyle yellow diamond 2Y in colour with an Si clarity, and a 0.02mct Argyle Blue diamond BL3 in colour with an SI clarity. Also featured are 0.50mct of round brilliant cut white diamonds set in the handmade web, and its border.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village 83 Merthyr Road, New Farm QLD 4005 P: 07 3254 4444 E: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 83

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

CROSSED OVER CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $27,000 One only handmade 18ct 2tone diamond set ring. The ring features a 1.20mct, Emerald cut diamond F in colour with a VS1 clarity. The centre stone is sided by two 0.50mct round brilliant cut diamonds each F in colour with a VS1 clarity, and is set with a double cross over shank which features grain set diamonds in 18ct white gold in half and 18ct yellow gold in the other.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village 83 Merthyr Road, New Farm QLD 4005 P: 07 3254 4444 E: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 85

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

Ã&#x2030;CHELLE ROSE CATEGORY: Pendant (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $95,000 Handmade 18ct white gold Argyle Pink, Blue and white Pendant. The pendant features a single round brilliant cut Argyle Pink diamond with a weight of 0.25mct, 3P in colour with a SI1 clarity. The drop style pendant also features Grain set Argyle blue diamonds and white diamond set down the the columns and around the Pink diamond.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village 83 Merthyr Road, New Farm QLD 4005 P: 07 3254 4444 E: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 87

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE PINK LOWANNA CATEGORY: Pink Diamond | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $1,450,000 The Pink Lowanna is a one-off bespoke handmade platinum and rose gold Argyle Pink Diamond ring. The Pink Lowanna features three Argyle Pink Diamonds each with a weight of 0.45mct, 1PP in colour, with an SI1 clarity, rub over set. Hammer set into the hand forged platinum basin are a total of six round brilliant cut Argyle Pink Diamonds, 5P in colour with an Si clarity and a combined weight of 0.12mct. A further four white round brilliant cut diamonds with a combined weight of 0.10mct are sprinkled throughout the basin to further highlight the Argyle Pink Diamonds. An 18ct rose gold half round shank is also featured, extending up and through the basin of Argyle Pink Diamonds. This ring has a balanced weight of 14.87 grams, offering its owner a comfortable well healed bespoke piece of jewellery to be worn and adored daily.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village 83 Merthyr Road, New Farm QLD 4005 P: 07 3254 4444 E: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au ageniuswithgems.com.au 89

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE CONTINUEM RING CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $22,000 The single ribbon of hand forged Platinum overlaps and flows around the finger, sweeping up to a 1.02ct round brilliant cut diamond, balanced on a bed of pave set diamonds.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: 02 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 91

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE ORBIT RING CATEGORY: Pearls (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $6,490 A stream of polished Palladium wraps around a white South Sea pearl with white diamonds in it’s trail, giving this unique ring it’s name - The Orbit.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: 02 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 93

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

THE SESSANTA RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $24,000 This sculptural design showcases Spinel, rose gold, platinum and diamonds in a multi layered visual feast. The twists and turns take the eye on a visual journey that mesmerises those with a keen eye for design.

CREATIONS JEWELLERS BEN PRESTON-BLACK

PO BOX 3300, Manuka ACT 2603 P: 02 6295 1763 E: ben@creationsjewellers.com.au creationsjewellers.com.au 95

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

RED SUNSET OVER GOLDEN SUN CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Cad Assist | VALUE: $25,000 One natural Imperial topaz weighing 4.03ct surrounded by 1.08ct of yellow diamonds in a radiating 18ct rose gold open scalloped channel setting. The stones are resting in an 18ct white gold marquise open detailed basket, finished with a border of white round brilliant cut diamonds equalling 0.50ct.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn VIC 3104 P: 03 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com dannyleedesigns.com 97

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ALPHA CENTAURI CATEGORY: Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $114,730.00 Handmade 18ct white and yellow gold engagement ring, held together by diamond studded bolts with a diamond encrusted band. The centre princess cut diamond (3.08ct F/VS1) is surrounded by 20 smaller princess cut stones (1.56ct F/VS1) in a floating head. An inverted 0.25ct princess cut diamond is set beneath the centre stone so that the points of the stones almost meet. The main stones are supported by 86 pave set brilliant cut diamonds (total weight 1.43cts F/VS). Gold weight: 24.2grams. Total diamond weight: 6.32ct.

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

NICK DE KLERK

3/47 Neridah Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com deklerkjewellers.com.au 99

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

MOKUME GANE PENDANT CATEGORY: Pendant (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $1,490.00 Handmade 9ct rose gold, silver and copper Mokume Gane pendant set with a fancy cut smokey quartz in a free flowing flower design that falls away from the stone in a complimentary organic pattern.

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

NICK DE KLERK

3/47 Neridah Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com deklerkjewellers.com.au 101

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

1920â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SWING PENDANT CATEGORY: Pendant (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $14,500.00 18ct white and yellow gold handmade pendant incorporating five separate interchangeable sections that give the wearer the ability to create their own combinations and looks. Inspired by the styles of the 1920s this piece has both vintage appeal and modern flexibility. A drop cluster design enhancer with a claw set heart-shaped Citrine, two rub over set Mabe Pearls, one rub over set hexagonal Smoky Quartz, eighteen cultured Pearls, supported by eighty-one pave set round brilliant cut diamonds. Citrine dimensions: 23 x 23mm. Mabe Pearl size: 13 x 13mm. Smoky Quartz dimensions: 13 x 13mm. Pearl size: 3.2 x 3.2mm. Total Diamond weight: 1.22ct G/SI. Weight: 36.1 grams.

DE KLERK JEWELLERS

NICK DE KLERK

3/47 Neridah Street, Chatswood NSW 2067 P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com deklerkjewellers.com.au 103

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ON THE WING CATEGORY: Enamel | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA Award winning necklace. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver, faceted blue quartz. “Because I began my career as a painter/artist then moved into jewellery, I consider my enamels as wearable art and totally individual. Unique, one-of-a-kind pieces are for the collector or wearer who likes individuality. They are completely made by hand and take many hours to achieve the perfection of the end result.”

DEBBIE SHEEZEL P: 0419 339 199 E: debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au debbiesheezel.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SHADOWS CATEGORY: Enamel | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,200 7.5 x 7cm. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver, 16.5ct. London Blue topaz.

DEBBIE SHEEZEL P: 0419 339 199 E: debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au debbiesheezel.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

EXOTICA CATEGORY: Enamel | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,200 9.5 x 5cm. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver, Andesine Labradorite.

DEBBIE SHEEZEL P: 0419 339 199 E: debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au debbiesheezel.com.au

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AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

SUBLIME CATEGORY: Enamel | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,200 9.5 x 3cm. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver, glass.

DEBBIE SHEEZEL P: 0419 339 199 E: debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au debbiesheezel.com.au

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OMEGA 6 CATEGORY: Enamel | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,200 9.5 x 1.75cm. Brooch/pendant. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver.

DEBBIE SHEEZEL P: 0419 339 199 E: debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au debbiesheezel.com.au

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VERDANT CATEGORY: Enamel | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,200 8.5 x 3.3cm. Brooch. Vitreous enamel, 24, 22 & 18ct gold, fine & sterling silver, faceted Apatite.

DEBBIE SHEEZEL P: 0419 339 199 E: debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au debbiesheezel.com.au

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LOVE KNOT OF THE SORCERESS CATEGORY: Pendant (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $4,750 | ENTRY PIECE: A 18ct yellow gold and titanium pendant with pearshape tanzanite.

DESMA DESIGNS JEWELLERY DESMA NOBLE

P: 02 8719 6348 or 0407 888 932 desma@desmadesigns.com.au

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EUPHYLLIA CATEGORY: Pearls (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $4,000 Rose Gold coral textured ring set with bubbling pearls and brilliant diamonds with a yellow gold silhouette of fish glowing from underneath.

FINELINES JEWELLERS RACHEL MACMILLAN

Shop 3/26 Commerce Drive, Robina, QLD 4226 P: 07 5562 0222 E: info@finelinesjewellers.com.au finelinesjewellers.com.au 119

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FEU Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ARTIFICE (FIREWORKS) CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $15,500 18ct white gold and 9ct rose gold Dress ring featuring an oval cut Pink Tourmaline surrounded with blush and white diamonds.

FINELINES JEWELLERS BEN TRACY

Shop 3/26 Commerce Drive, Robina, QLD 4226 P: 07 5562 0222 E: info@finelinesjewellers.com.au finelinesjewellers.com.au 121

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ECHUNGA CHRISTMAS RUSH PENDANT CATEGORY: Pendant (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade & CAD Assist | VALUE: $9,495 This stunning Echunga Christmas Rush diamond floral pendant has been designed to celebrate the exquisite depth of colour in these natural diamonds. Created with three tones of 18ct gold and superb, gentle curves, the leaves and flowers on this piece appear as if they are swaying to a gentle breeze. In Gerard McCabeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Echunga Collection every coloured diamond is unique. This pendant is named after the goldfield in which the Echunga diamonds were discovered.

GERARD MCCABE JEWELLERS Shop 2 Adelaide Arcade & 50 Rundle Mall, Rundle Mall Plaza, Adelaide SA 5000 P: 08 8232 1000 or 08 8212 2000 E: adelaidearcade@gerardmccabe.com.au or rundlemall@gerardmccabe.com.au gerardmccabe.com.au 123

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ECHUNGA FORESHAW RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade & CAD Assist | VALUE: $29,995 In Gerard McCabeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Echunga collection, every diamond is unique. This ring has been designed to celebrate the miracle of colour, with an organic floral design that connects the wearer to the beauty of nature. This Echunga Foreshaw Ring features a stunning collection of natural coloured diamonds. The 1.01 carat centre gem is independently certified. The floral arrangement is complemented with pear shaped coloured diamonds, fine white marquise diamonds and round diamonds in both white and exquisite pink colours. The ring is crafted in 18ct white and yellow gold. It is named about Robert Foreshaw who was reportedly the first person to discover diamonds in Echunga in the Adelaide Hills. He discovered a yellow diamond in March 1859. The Adelaide Observer reported this gem to the the size of a small pea. This exclusive collection features timeless jewellery inspired by the mystery and folklore of the rare, Echunga diamonds. No two diamonds are alike, Echunga is a collection like no other.

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TRINITY ROSE SOLITAIRE DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $4,895 Inspired by Gerard McCabeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fleur De Lis collection, this ring features an array of patterns and shapes. The intricate detailing draws inspiration from the Australia flower Boronia Molloyae, which is very similar to the rose. The Trinity Rose ring incorporates a rose filigree pattern which adds a subtle and beautiful flourish to this classic ring style. Roses represent love, which makes this design a beautiful symbol for the message of love and a truly meaningful proposal. The claws are designed based on organic shapes, all gently connected to each other. The claw of one diamond is holding the other stones too. It looks as if you take one out, the rest of the combination will fall apart. Similar to people who love each other, their connection to one another is the secret to their strength and sparkle.

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EMERALD & DIAMOND EARRINGS CATEGORY: Earrings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $38,500 18k white gold emerald and diamond earrings. Two amazing African emeralds totaling 5.91ct (3.19ct & 2.72ct) with white RBC diamonds surrounding totaling 0.58ct.

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY P: 03 9866 4983 E: sales@iansharp.com.au iansharp.com.au

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LOLITA CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $56,800 18ct white gold diamond ring set with 2ct F VS2 GIA certified triple excellent diamond, it is also set with 2 x 4pp at 0.03ct Argyle pink diamonds underneath the basket, set in a 18ct rose gold bezel setting. This beautiful design ring is also set with 20 x F VS2 round brilliant cut diamonds in the claws at 0.10ct total weight and 8 x F VS2 marquise diamonds on the band at 0.25ct total weight. All accentuated with mill grain pattern. Total weight of this beautiful design ring is 6.28grams.

JANAI

ANNIE TEU

Shop 1/259 Coliins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 P: (03) 9662 1455 E: annie@janai.com.au janai.com.au 131

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COSMIC CLOUD CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $9,500 Cosmic cloud is inspired by interstellar formations and features an unheated colour change sapphire with diamond and sapphire cosmic halo set in platinum and 18ct rose gold.

JASON REE 75Â½ George Street, The Rocks NSW 2000 P: +61 2 9235 2133 E: jason@jasonree.com.au jasonree.com.au 133

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FIREBALL CATEGORY: Mens Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,500 Fireball showcases a twisted flametree mokume centre framed with polished platinum.

JASON REE 75Â½ George Street, The Rocks NSW 2000 P: +61 2 9235 2133 E: jason@jasonree.com.au jasonree.com.au 135

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HELMI PEARL RING CATEGORY: Pearls (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $3,900 South Sea Tahitian pearl with hand faceted 18ct white gold band and set with one pink Argyle diamond.

JASON REE 75Â½ George Street, The Rocks NSW 2000 P: +61 2 9235 2133 E: jason@jasonree.com.au jasonree.com.au 137

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JUXTAPOSE OPAL RING CATEGORY: Opals (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,000 Platinum and 22ct yellow gold ring featuring one black opal and one boulder opal.

JASON REE 75Â½ George Street, The Rocks NSW 2000 P: +61 2 9235 2133 E: jason@jasonree.com.au jasonree.com.au 139

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SAKURA PENDANT CATEGORY: Necklaces (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $4,900 Handmade pendant inspired by a Sakura knot, a traditional form of Japanese embroidery. The piece is handmade in 18ct rose gold and Mokume gane and set with white diamonds and pink sapphire.

JASON REE 75Â½ George Street, The Rocks NSW 2000 P: +61 2 9235 2133 E: jason@jasonree.com.au jasonree.com.au 141

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ODE TO INDIA CATEGORY: Necklaces (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $67,200 “Ode to India” A Handmade Interchangeable Jewellery Suite. Pearl Strand - Ivory colour South Sea 15.7mm - 12.2mm Round to Near Round Shape and C1-C2 surface, 33 pieces = 29.78 momme with interchangeable 18K Yellow Gold. Interchangeable mechanism. Centre Piece - 18K Yellow Gold Lotus Pendant featuring a claw set carved 19.77ct. Natural Columbian Emerald. The petals are pave set with 56 D-F/VS1 Diamonds = 0.64ct, 48 Yellow Sapphires = 1.13ct, 65 Rubies = 1.39ct and 82 Blue Sapphires = 1.67ct. Surrounded with 8 x 18K Yellow Gold Interchangeable Tubes to fit multiple elements, creating a unique and versatile piece. The 18K Yellow Gold detachable tassel pendant features strands of Yellow and Blue Sapphires, Ruby and Emerald Faceted Beads each with an Akoya Pearl on the bottom and is set with 24 F/VS1 Diamonds = 0.33ct. Earrings - 18K Yellow Gold Huggies thread set with 20 G/SI Diamonds = 0.10ct with detachable 11.5mm - 12mm White Round South Sea Pearls fitted with 18K Yellow Gold Interchangeable Tubes and scalloped caps. The 18K Yellow Gold detachable earring tassels feature strands of Yellow and Blue Sapphire, Ruby and Emerald Faceted Beads each with a Akoya Pearl on the bottom and the caps are set with 32 F/VS1 Diamonds = 0.30ct. 217 hours of handcrafted workmanship by Master Jeweller Don Kennedy Inspiration - The lotus flower & the vibrancy of India. Designed by Vanessa Kennedy.

KENNEDY JEWELLERS VANESSA KENNEDY

The Vault Shop 101, 92-98 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour NSW 2450 P: (02) 6650 9940 E: info@kennedyjewellers.com.au kennedyjewellers.com.au 143

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SUSPENDED MOTION CATEGORY: Earrings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $29,500 | ENTRY PIECE: A Handmade 18K yellow and white gold detachable drop earrings featuring 4.32cts of G/SI round brilliant cut diamonds reverse pave set with honeycomb style engraving to bring emphasis to the pavilions of the diamonds showing. Inspiration - Watching our son Freddie who was born with Down Syndrome play with a toy to help develop his fine motor skills that has the same moving segments. Designed and handcrafted by Master Jeweller Don Kennedy.

KENNEDY JEWELLERS DON KENNEDY

The Vault Shop 101, 92-98 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour NSW 2450 P: (02) 6650 9940 E: info@kennedyjewellers.com.au kennedyjewellers.com.au 145

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EVA CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: POA 18ct white and rose gold engagement ring featuring natural pink and white diamonds. The centrepiece of this ring showcases a 3.06ct round brilliant cut GIA certified diamond. Surrounding the centre diamond is a halo of 20 x 0.01ct 4P round brilliant cut Argyle diamonds and 2 x 0.10ct pear cut diamonds as feature side embellishments. Total diamond weight is 3.46cts. This ring is designed for the bride who wants a classic and timeless engagement ring with subtle points of difference that make this ring a one of a kind statement ring.

LEGASSICK RENEE HUDSON

Shop 1558A Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, Hooker Blvd, Broadbeach QLD 4218 P: (07) 5538 5611 E: pacificfairworkshop@legassick.com.au Instagram: @jewellersview legassick.diamonds 147

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SAHARA CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: POA 18ct white and yellow gold diamond dress ring featuring a 2.03ct emerald cut diamond and a matching pair of half moon diamonds, which are elegantly surrounded by a double halo of fancy intense yellow and white round brilliant cut diamonds. Total diamond weight is 2.70cts. The design of this ring has been inspired by intricate details and aspects of Moroccan architecture.

LEGASSICK RENEE HUDSON

Shop 1558A Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, Hooker Blvd, Broadbeach QLD 4218 P: (07) 5538 5611 E: pacificfairworkshop@legassick.com.au Instagram: @jewellersview legassick.diamonds 149

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RADIANCE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $17,995 18ct white and yellow gold Blue Zircon and Diamond Ring. The centrepiece of this ring is a 7.98ct Round Brilliant Cut Blue Zircon. Surrounding the centre stone are 0.40cts of Fancy Intense natural yellow diamonds and a total of 1.17cts of white Marquise, Pear and Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds. The inspiration for this piece comes from the brilliance and beauty that can be seen from the Blue Zircon. The ring has been designed to embody elements of nature and transport the wearer away to sparkling waters of a deserted island.

LEGASSICK TARA BARNARD

Shop 70 Runaway Bay Centre, Runaway Bay QLD 4216 P: (07) 5528 9345 E: runawaybayworkshop@legassick.com.au Instagram: @jewelleryalchemist legassick.diamonds 151

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SERRA CATEGORY: Pearls (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $3,460 This South Sea Broome Pearl is encapsulated in 18ct yellow gold, crafted by hand and inspired by the work of sculptor Richard Serra. The piece depicts a play of line and texture with alternating satin and polished finishes.

MAGNOLIA DESIGNS MAGNOLIA HOWARD

PO Box 2757, Broome WA 6725 P: +61 427 981 729 E: magnolia@magnoliahoward.com magnoliahoward.com 153

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PEACOCK RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $20,000 18ct White gold, size O, featuring a 2.79ct, 8.55mm Cushion cut Green Tourmaline, also with Blue and Cognac Diamonds Pav’e set in the shoulders, Black Diamonds and a Pav’e of White Diamonds. The ring weight is 14 gms.

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY MARK EVANS

69 Sugar Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au markevansfinejewellery.com.au 155

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WINTER TIDE CATEGORY: Pearls (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $9,995 18ct white gold bracelet featuring 1 x 13mm white baroque pearl with diamond set curved links and diamond set clip.

MATTHEWS JEWELLERS

LEAH ABERCROMBIE

Shop 2056A Level 2 Westfield, 89 Park Ave, Kotara NSW 2289 P: (02) 4952 8505 E: kotara@matthewsjewellers.com matthewsjewellers.com 157

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CEYLON SAPPHIRE CEREMONIAL BRACELET CATEGORY: Accessories (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: POA Like the stepping stones of a Japanese garden this captivating 18ct Yellow Gold bracelet boasts custom cut round and pear shaped Ceylon Sapphires. This understated piece of elegance wears with simplicity and comfort whilst emanating its brilliance.

MINZENMAY PAUL MINZENMAY

152 Main Street, Mornington VIC 3931 P: 03 5975 2439 F: 03 5975 5712 E: paul@minzenmay.com.au minzenmay.com.au 159

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EFFLORESCE ARTISAN CUFF CATEGORY: Bridal Jewellery (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA Inspired by nature and the unfurling of a flower, the raw elegance of this cuff is showcased in 18ct Rose, Yellow and White Gold. Set with Kunzite, Quartz Echorite and Diamonds.

MINZENMAY PAUL MINZENMAY

152 Main Street, Mornington VIC 3931 P: 03 5975 2439 F: 03 5975 5712 E: paul@minzenmay.com.au minzenmay.com.au 161

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EFFLORESCE ARTISAN HAIR PIECES CATEGORY: Bridal Jewellery (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA Inspired by the raw beauty of the vintage Japanese hair pins, these artisan hairpieces whisper luxury and femineity that only 18ct Rose, Yellow and White Gold can deliver. Set with oval Quartz Echorite, Pink Tourmaline and Diamonds, these hand crafted hairpieces are timeless heirlooms that speak to the heart of the most exquisite bride.

MINZENMAY PAUL MINZENMAY

152 Main Street, Mornington VIC 3931 P: 03 5975 2439 F: 03 5975 5712 E: paul@minzenmay.com.au minzenmay.com.au 163

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FIRST BLOOM CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: POA Inspired by the First Blooms of Spring this 18ct Rose and White Gold Diamond and Sapphire ring is set with a 0.70ct Australian Argyle Round Brilliant Diamond and Marquise Diamonds with the feature Marquise Australian Green Sapphire Bloom.

MINZENMAY

JAMES CHRISTIE

152 Main Street, Mornington VIC 3931 P: 03 5975 2439 F: 03 5975 5712 E: paul@minzenmay.com.au minzenmay.com.au 165

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THE ELEPHANT CATEGORY: Accessories (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: POA This hand finished Sterling Silver and 9ct Rose Gold tusked Elephant Brooch is the statement piece of all accessories. Hand set stones, capture the heart of the wearer through the mystery of Ceylon Sapphires that twinkle in his eyes.

MINZENMAY

BRIDIE MINZENMAY AND MARLEE HOROBIN

152 Main Street, Mornington VIC 3931 P: 03 5975 2439 F: 03 5975 5712 E: paul@minzenmay.com.au minzenmay.com.au 167

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HIDDENITE DRESS RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $7,500 8.3cts yellow cushion cut hiddenite. Fully-handmade ring in 18ct yellow gold with platinum fleur-de-lis details and twisted wire claws.

MN JEWELLERY DESIGN MATTHEW NEALE

Shop 2 /370 Main Road, Wellington Point QLD 4160 P: 07 3822 7950 E: info@mnjewellerydesign.com.au mnjewellerydesign.com.au 169

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‘RE-GROWTH’ DIAMOND DRESS RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $19,800 This organic styled Diamond dress ring was created in 18ct white gold using diamonds recycled from my clients unworn yet sentimental jewellery. Given the bark like texture I used and also the reuse of materials I coined it ‘Re-Growth’.

ORION JOEL CUSTOM JEWELLERY ORION CHIBNALL

P: 0402 937 816 E: orion@orionjoel.com orionjoel.com

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HEIRLOOM BOOK CATEGORY: Pendants (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,990 18ct yellow gold, fine silver and Ceylon sapphire. Pages can be engraved with words and photos, stylus pulls out of spine to turn the pages. Front and back covers are hand engraved.

RALF FISCH FINE JEWELLERY RALF FISCH

P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au Facebook: www.facebook.com/Ralf.Fisch.Jewellery ralffischjewellery.com.au 173

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KINETIC HEART CATEGORY: Pendants (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $3,950 9ct white and rose gold with sterling silver, pave set with 101 diamonds = 1.01ct. Engraved disk and key rotates when the wearer turns their head (see footage of a plain version here: https://www. facebook.com/Ralf.Fisch.Jewellery/videos/1903363893035074/).

RALF FISCH FINE JEWELLERY RALF FISCH

P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au Facebook: www.facebook.com/Ralf.Fisch.Jewellery ralffischjewellery.com.au 175

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LUMBERJACK CATEGORY: Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jewellery | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $2,500 18ct white gold and Red Gum timber. One-off mismatched gents earrings.

RALF FISCH FINE JEWELLERY RALF FISCH

P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au Facebook: www.facebook.com/Ralf.Fisch.Jewellery ralffischjewellery.com.au 177

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VERDE BRILLIANTE CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $5,995 18ct white gold with 4.60ct green zircon and 0.53ct of round brilliant cut diamonds.

RALF FISCH FINE JEWELLERY ANGELA CUNNINGHAM

P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au Facebook: www.facebook.com/Ralf.Fisch.Jewellery ralffischjewellery.com.au 179

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NOUVEAU ANNIVERSARY PENDANT CATEGORY: Accessories (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade CAD Assist | VALUE: $9,800 Nouveau carved offset centre set with brillant cut diamonds. Free form initials of family members with Marquise and carreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; diamond feature and rosegold heart for date.

RJ PEARCE DESIGNER JEWELLERS ROBERT PEARCE

Wesley Quarter, 291 Murray Street, Perth WA 6000 P: 08 9481 6065 after 10:30 E: info@rjpearcejewellers.com.au rjpearcejewellers.com.au 181

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LUNA DESCENT - SUNDAY ISLAND AT DAWN CATEGORY: Pearls (up to $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $3,700 A brooch that reflects the glorious and pristine environment from which this stunning pearl has emerged, Luna Descent is an imagining of this beautiful place with a moon setting in the west and the first blush of a new dawn spreading its pink glow across the glistening tide line. 375 white gold, 750 yellow gold, 5=0.28ct Apricot Sapphires, 2=0.18ct Australian Sapphire and stunning Southsea Pearl.

NON COMPETING JUDGES SUBMISSION

SILVERMIST STUDIO TIM PEEL

238 Maroondah Highway, Healesville VIC 3777 P: (03) 5962 5470 E: studio@silvermiststudio.com.au

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CHOPSTICKS ON REST CATEGORY: Art piece | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $182,000 Chopsticks: by Master Goldsmith Paul Amey, designed and handcrafted from 18ct yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and pearls. The chopsticks have mother of pearl tips and are extensively embellished with platinum overlay onto the gold background. The principal chopstick has a “tassel” with a south sea pearl, 16.2mm x 22mm, weighing 3.2 grams, and is suspended on 18ct yellow gold triple chain with diamond embellishments. All settings on the background chenier, including the parvé, and mother of pearl tips were crafted by Paul. Diamond list: 2 x marquis F VS equaling 27pts; 2 x round brilliant EF SI equaling 44pts; 2 x marquis F VS equaling 47pts; 2 x pear F VS equaling 69pts; 1 x 51pt E SI1; round brilliant set in end with 8 x 8pt, 11 x 5pt, 11 x 3pt, 19 x 2pt, 44 x 1pt round brilliant, 3 x yellow colour enhanced princess cut equaling 44pts; assorted Argyle diamonds equaling 79pts; assorted small Argyle diamonds equaling 35pts. The gold weight is 58 grams, plus a platinum weight of 31.64 grams, taking over 260 hours to complete. Rest: also by Paul, is made from natural ebony, overlaid with 18ct yellow gold, platinum, diamonds and south sea pearls with a hand carved mother of pearl leaf, overlaid on an 18ct yellow gold leaf background. The overlay is removable by detaching the base pearl, which is 9.4mm x 14.4mm weighing 1.8 grams, which can then be worn as a pendant. Diamond list: 1 x 38pt round brilliant Argyle type; 12 x 1pt, 2 x 5pt, 6 x 3pt, 4 x 2pt round brilliant white diamonds equaling 26pts; 6 x 1pt green colour enhanced round. Total weight 48.2 grams, taking over 80 hours to complete. These fine examples are what 50 years of design and manufacturing can achieve. All are housed in a custom-made, cherry wood display box with brass trim and leather. The making of the chopsticks can be viewed at Paul Amey’s website under “Making of a Master Piece”. Visit www.eroticjewellery.com or call (08) 9525 4220 or 0437 231 921 for more information.

THE EROTIC JEWELLERY CO PAUL AMEY

4 Butcher Road, Darling Downs WA 6122 P: (08) 9525 4220 or M: 0437 231 921 E: info@eroticjewellery.com eroticjewellery.com 185

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ARTEMIS TOURMALINE RING CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $9,500 Artemis, Goddess of the mountains and the forests. Featuring a Sugarloaf cut Green Tourmaline surrounded by diamonds and set in 18ct Palladium White Gold.

TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY TRAVIS TREWARNE

234 Collins Street, Melbourne CBD VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 9805 E: travis@trewarne.com.au trewarne.com.au 187

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LEAVES OF EROS DIAMOND RING CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $12,000 The love that binds two lovers together, represented as The Leaves of Eros Ring. Featuring a mix of pink and white diamond leaves in the shoulder vines, either side of a round brilliant cut diamond.

TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY TRAVIS TREWARNE

234 Collins Street, Melbourne CBD VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 9805 E: travis@trewarne.com.au trewarne.com.au 189

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SELENE DIAMOND RING CATEGORY: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: $20,000 Selene, goddess of the moon, representing the lover and the bride. From the top, Selene the full moon with all her radiance, from the side, she travels in her chariot across the sky. Features a round brilliant cut centre diamond of one carat.

TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY TRAVIS TREWARNE

234 Collins Street, Melbourne CBD VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 9805 E: travis@trewarne.com.au trewarne.com.au 191

// DESIGN AWARDS

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GRIFFIN CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: Handmade | VALUE: POA Designed in honour of the Architect Mr Walter Burley Griffin. The ring’s side profile mirrors the elevations of Melbourne’s Shrine of Remembrance. Features a 1.50ct Square Emerald Cut Diamond set above a plate of pave set Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds.

TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY TRAVIS TREWARNE

234 Collins Street, Melbourne CBD VIC 3000 P: (03) 9654 9805 E: travis@trewarne.com.au trewarne.com.au 193

// DESIGN AWARDS

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SUNBURST CATEGORY: All Rings (over $5,000) | DESIGN: CAD Assist | VALUE: $14,000 This piece is made up of a 1.20cts pink spinel master cut and has marquise and princess cut diamonds in a cluster. The top piece and underneath basket is rose gold and inside piece is platinum. It is an amazing dress ring which has a value of $14,000.

VALENZO JEWELLERS NICK UEBERGANG

P: 0412 333 512 E: valenzojewels@gmail.com valenzo.com.au

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01 PHOTOGRAPHY // TANDY ROWLEY

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CREATIONS // PH: (02) 6295 1763

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BRUCE ROBINSON JEWELLERS // PH: (07) 3254 4444

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02 PHOTOGRAPHY // TORD JOHNSTON

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IAN SHARP // PH: (03) 9866 4983

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MDT DESIGN // PH: (03) 9654 6805

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RALF FISCH // PH: (03) 9762 6953

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03 PHOTOGRAPHY // TANDY ROWLEY

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GIULIANS // PH: (02) 9247 5630

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Find Your

Jeweller

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Jewellery // Keshett Jewellers

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// PROFILES

BASTIAN INVERUN SILVER

Jewellery for eternity... Exceptional design and manufacturing quality are the hallmarks of the German jewellery brand, Bastian Inverun. Since its beginnings in the Hanseatic city of Bremen in 1974, Bastian has been creating unique pieces with great devotion, always with a view to the personal style and individuality of the women who wear it. Our name captures that very spirit. inverun is derived from several Latin words that translate to “precious, genuine and unique”. These are the guiding principles in the creation of our jewellery. Only natural elements including colourful semi-precious gems, freshwater pearls and sumptuous sterling silver are what you’ll discover in our productions. The result is timeless jewellery to stir your emotions. Wear it with love, pride and pure “joie de vivre”. Look for Bastian Inverun in your nearest high quality jewellery store or gallery. You can also see our Stockists Page.

BASTIAN INVERUN SILVER P.O. Box 4420 North Rocks NSW PH: (02) 9630 6619 FAX: (02) 9630 6679 Email: admin@osjag.com Website: www.osjag.com 224

// PROFILES

BREUNING “PURE FASHION” SILVER

Since 1927, Breuning has been creating high quality special jewellery for the world-wide market. Located in Pforzheim, Germany, Breuning can be relied upon to deliver typical German precision combined with style and flair. The combination of cutting edge technology and time honoured manufacturing techniques means that you can always expect timeless beauty and prolonged durability from Breuning. A generous number of new releases each season means that you’ll have no trouble finding unique pieces of jewellery that you can call your own. The “Pure Fashion” silver collection is the latest from the Breuning stable. It offers a unique array of designs that incorporate the distinctive Breuning brand into each design, providing a meaningful and fashionable way to identity yourself with this gorgeous jewellery. Bold and contemporary lines that are superbly finished in a rhodium plate are a consistent theme. Some of the designs feature rose and yellow gold plating, white sapphires and sumptuous coloured gems – all guaranteed to attract the eye and turn heads. Wear it and make a statement in true class and style.

BREUNING “PURE FASHION” SILVER P.O. Box 4420 North Rocks NSW PH: (02) 9630 6619 FAX: (02) 9630 6679 Email: admin@osjag.com Website: www.osjag.com 226

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BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS

Bruce Robinson Diamonds is a family run business of 48 years standing and specialises in fine custom handmade diamond jewellery, with an emphasis on coloured diamonds - including the Beyond Rare Argyle Pink Diamonds. Bruce Robinson Diamondsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; workshop is dedicated to creating one-off timeless pieces using only the best in quality natural gemstones and precious metals. Bruce Robinson Diamonds are handpicked from all over the world, with sourcing the finest cut diamonds our business' primary objective. Bruce Robinsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diamonds expertise in craftsmanship began when Bruce trained with a Swiss-German tiara maker - we continue to apply those time-honoured rules of design and manufacturing to all new and unexpected creations.

BRUCE ROBINSON DIAMONDS Shop 15 Merthyr Village 83 Merthyr Road New Farm QLD PH: (07) 3254 4444 Email: sales@ageniuswithgems.com.au Website: www.ageniuswithgems.com.au 228

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CATANACH’S

As the oldest family-owned jeweller in Australia, Catanach’s has been designing and crafting stunning jewellery for over 140 years. It’s a reputation to be proud of – and Catanach’s builds that heritage into both its service delivery and its wonderful range of jewellery. Founded in 1874 by a young English diamond setter, George William Catanach, Catanach’s is now in its fifth generation – guided by the expertise of Amanda and David Catanach. “Catanach’s is famous for its antique pieces and its fine diamonds,” says Amanda. “We’re also very proud of our South Sea pearl jewellery range. Coming from Broome in WA, these are beautifully crafted pearls set in both modern and classic designs.” Catanach’s also deals in the finest Argyle pink diamonds. “The chance to work with these spectacular gems is taken as an honour,” says Amanda. “Such is the rarity of these stones that after cutting they are sent out to worldwide tender,” she says, “We have obtained some magnificent pink diamonds to meet the increasing demand.” When making a personal jewellery purchase, Catanach’s takes into account your individual requirements. “My staff encourage clients to purchase pieces that complement their existing jewellery and, if required, we remake dated pieces,” says Amanda. It’s all part of the Catanach’s heritage.

CATANACH’S 1212 High Street Armadale VIC PH: (03) 9509 0311 FAX: (03) 9500 9659 Website: www.catanachs.com.au 230

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CREATIONS

Creations is something of a rarity in the traditional world of fine jewellery – they have a modern approach, and a keen sense of the fashions of the time. Their designs are timeless, wearable and distinctly “Creations.” They are an established family owned and operated business located in the prestigious centre of Manuka in Canberra. Their state of the art workshop on the premises boasts six resident jewellers and a master diamond setter from Israel. All setting is performed under a microscope to ensure the highest quality finish. Designing and re-modelling is one of Creation’s specialties. Their team of designers and jewellers have won several prestigious national and international jewellery awards. Following their achievements as finalists in the JAA Diamond Jewellery Award ‘Diamond’ category in 2008 and the ‘Platinum’ category in 2010, the team won the coveted bi-yearly award consecutively in 2012 and 2014. The Creations team were also named finalists in both the 2009 and 2015 Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery Awards, and won the ‘Jeweller’ category of the inaugural Jewellery Design and Manufacturing Championship 2015. Following that, Creations were finalists in a number of categories for The Australian Jewellery Design Awards in 2017, winning the ‘Accessories over $5,000’ category. Most recently Creations were finalists in the Jewellery Design awards and won the ‘Coloured Gemstone’ category in August 2017. In their beautiful Canberra store you can feast your eyes on the best Australia has to offer with Autore South Sea pearls, along with white and coloured Australian diamonds. They stock a large range of Tahitian and freshwater pearls, Italian and German gold and silver and of course their own Creations designs featuring diamonds, pearls and exotic coloured gemstones sourced from all over the world. Their friendly and helpful staff consists of experienced designers, gemmologists, valuers and a team of creative jewellers. CREATIONS

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Style Arcade Manuka Canberra ACT PH: (02) 6295 1763 FAX: (02) 6295 1711 Email: info@creationsjewellers.com.au Website: www.creationsjewellers.com.au

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

IAN SHARP

Leading retail jewellers, Ian Sharp have been satisfying the desires of jewellery lovers for almost 30 years. “Our store has been acclaimed as one of the most elegant and up to date in Australia,” says Ian Sharp. “We have four leading manufacturing jewellers on the premises, so we keep the making process completely in house.” The team boasts an intimate knowledge of design and craftsmanship creating an outstanding collection of contemporary and classic jewellery pieces. Ideal cut diamonds are sourced from Belgium, Israel, New York and India, with South Sea pearls from Broome and gold pieces from Italy. “With the high level of our source materials, we guarantee the best possible quality and price,” says Ian. The Ian Sharp clientele includes celebrities, sports people and pop stars, who all know that the outcome will be exquisitely handmade, individual jewellery pieces. “We pride ourselves on our customer service and ability to interpret and respond to our clients aesthetic desires,” says Ian. His effervescent charm and instinct for design are recognised as the cornerstone of this successful jeweller and have secured Ian Sharp as one of Melbourne’s leading jewellery designers.

IAN SHARP 65 Toorak Road South Yarra VIC PH: (03) 9866 4983 Email: sales@iansharp.com.au Website: www.iansharp.com.au 234

Photography // Anthony Masci

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

INA BARRY GOLD & SILVERSMITH

Ina Barry’s style could be described as a mixture of Victorian grandeur meets Rock’n Roll, or perhaps Biker-chick meets Elizabethan princess. Her unique style has attracted celebrities including REM and Dannii Minogue. Ina’s eclectic variety of influences include the clean rounded surfaces and reflections of highly polished metal from furniture in the ‘30s, as well as Medieval and Latvian jewellery for their folkloric and magic associations. STUDIO 204, 20-22 MCKILLOP STREET, MELBOURNE Her extensive collection of highly original and stunning designs marries past and present BY APPOINTMENT 0409 39 37 38 with dramatic effect. www.inabarryjewellery.com With a loyal client base returning ina@inabarryjewellery.com time and time again, Ina‘s reputation is such that often has customers order and buy sight unseen. Ina Barry is available by appointment only.

INA BARRY GOLD & SILVERSMITH

INA BARRY GOLD & SILVERSMITH Studio 204 20-22 McKillop Street Melbourne VIC PH: 0409 393 738 Email: ina@inabarryjewellery.com Website: www.inabarryjewellery.com 236

Photography // Steve Cook

// PROFILES

Photography // Anthony Masci

KESHETT JEWELLERS

Keshett Jewellers has been renowned for its impeccable quality and service for almost 30 years. They pride themselves on being jewellers of distinction and the continued success of this family business has solidified that belief. The team at Keshett Jewellers is proud to welcome you to the newly renovated store to view the stunning range of jewellery available. Keshett Jewellers is home to the most rare and remarkable collection of contemporary jewellery - specialising in uniquely designed modern engagement rings, period jewellery (including original Art Deco, Retro and Edwardian pieces), as well as estate jewellery available for Australian collectors. When you visit Keshett Jewellers, you will see the dedication to craftsmanship and the attention to detail by the sales consultants. It is an unrivalled experience. However, it is the range and variety of jewellery sourced from all around the world that is the pride of this store â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they are objects of priceless quality that have to be seen to be believed. Discover objects of timeless beauty and unique designs by visiting Keshett Jewellers today.

KESHETT JEWELLERS 323-325 Little Collins Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade 282 Collins Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 8590 8560 FAX: (03) 9650 1084 Email: sales@keshett.com.au Website: www.keshett.com.au 238

Photography // Anthony Masci

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY

Mark and Shelley Evans, of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery are fuelled by their passion for coloured gemstones. Their primary focus is to captivate their audience with design and colour. “We wanted to introduce people to the amazing array of natural gemstones that nature provides. We have found that like the uniqueness of gemstones, it is becoming more evident that people wish to express their individuality by commissioning bespoke jewellery,” Mark explains. At the heart of their passion is a desire to make a difference to how jewellery is perceived. “It is an heirloom - a moment captured in time, a tangible memory to share with future generations.” As a member of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia, each piece of jewellery is hallmarked and dated, to capture a moment in time. This focus was also the inspiration behind the design of Mark’s workshop, having embraced the concept of an open view workshop layout where Mark can be observed handcrafting fine jewellery. “The art of jewellery-making has always been perceived under a shroud of secrecy, and with our new workshop design, the art and skill that goes into every handcrafted piece of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery can be appreciated, slowly de-mystifying the art of jewellerymaking,” says Mark. With over 35 years as a goldsmith, Mark is increasingly enthusiastic about the direction that Shelley and Mark’s designs are taking. “We don’t expect our jewellery to appeal to the masses; however we hope our design prowess, technical expertise and attention to detail with each design impress those purveying our work.” Mark and Shelley’s commitment to the fusion of contemporary design, meticulous detail and unsurpassed craftsmanship is what inspires this duo to create their remarkable jewellery. MARK EVANS FINE JEWELLERY 69 Sugar Road Maroochydore QLD PH: (07) 5443 2778 Email: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au Website: www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au 240

Photography // Tord Johnston

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

MDT DESIGN

At MDTdesign, we love to hand make simply stunning rings. You can choose from our huge range or you can let us create for you the ring of your dreams to celebrate the uniqueness of your love. Every ring we make is individually designed for the couple choosing it so you will never see a ring like yours anywhere else. Whether your heart desires something traditional or modern, or something in between, you will discover our award winning designs are truly amazing. Our tension set “floating diamond” rings have to be seen to be believed, while our Mokume Gane rings utilise ancient Japanese sword-making techniques and represent the pinnacle of the jeweller’s art. We work with only the highest quality diamonds, all hand-selected, including beautiful Australian Argyle pink and white diamonds. Come and speak to us about your ideal ring. We design and hand-craft all our jewellery in our own workshop so your ring never leaves our hands until it is safely in yours. Choose MDTdesign, for the ring you have always dreamed would one day be yours forever.

MDT DESIGN 166 Swanston Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 6805 FAX: (03) 9650 4401 Email: admin@mdtdesign.com Website: www.mdtdesign.com.au 242

Photography // Tord Johnston

// PROFILES

MINZENMAY

A historical icon of jewellery on the Mornington Peninsula with a 107 year heritage of the highest-quality skilled craftsmanship, Minzenmay is the trusted home for creating family heirlooms that will be passed down from generation to generation. Minzenmay combines state-of-the-art-technology with the knowledge of more than a century of experience passed down through the family. Paul Kristian Minzenmay along-side his wife Bridie are the third generation to own and operate the family business. As a qualified master jeweller, gemmologist, diamond technologist and registered jewellery valuer, Paul is always aspiring to ensure the legacy of distinction in fine jewellery making. With such a rich history of expertise, the design team - led by Paul himself, are uniquely qualified to guide clients through the process of selecting and creating speciality pieces of jewellery that reflect their personal story. In a one-on-one appointment the talented team will assist you to develop your ideas and choose the perfect solution to suit your individual needs; whether that is the efficiency and precision of the Design Studio System or the romance of the exclusive experience of a fully handcrafted piece by Paul Kristian Minzenmay. All Paul Kristian Minzenmay pieces are sculpted from luxury metals and precious stones in our onsite workshop with Paulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal artistic fingerprint. Having the largest on premises workshop on the Mornington Peninsula our jewellers and watchmaker are able to repair and recraft your existing pieces with your most treasured items never leaving the site. In-store, Minzenmay has generous displays of ready to wear jewellery pieces from classic styles to modern design. Peruse high-end designer pieces from Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, an international luxury brand deeply rooted in a passion for artisanal excellence, specialising in understated fine jewellery. With a hard earned reputation of quality craftsmanship and a long established provider of expert service, a visit to Minzenmay will be sure to stir creative inspiration.

MINZENMAY

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152 Main Street Mornington VIC PH: (03) 5975 2439 Email: info@minzenmay.com.au Website: www.minzenmay.com.au

// PROFILES

Photography // Tord Johnston

RALF FISCH

Imagine stepping back in time and finding a time honoured jewellers’ workshop ... a place where mass production has not been heard of … a destination where true hand crafted designer jewellery is created by Master Jeweller – Ralf Fisch and his creative team. With over 30 years of design and manufacturing experience, the workshop of Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery is continually pushing the boundaries of what most jewellers call extraordinary! From the early stages of the consultation and design process through to the highly anticipated final reveal of your hand crafted piece of jewellery, Ralf Fisch and his remarkable team are with you every step of the way. They highly value and respect the thoughts and wishes of all clientele and will ensure that these ideals are expertly met. Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery is truly a collaboration of passion, design experience, manufacturing excellence and customer understanding. Whether you’re in the market for traditional, designer or custom made engagement or wedding rings, specialised jewellery pieces or simply a repair, the workshop of Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery is a destination choice for the customer who wants and experience rather than a purchase.

RALF FISCH 1315 Mountain Highway The Basin VIC PH: (03) 9762 6953 Email: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au Website: www.ralffischjewellery.com.au 246

Photography // Tord Johnston

// PROFILES

TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY

I design diamond rings for people who want to be reminded of their love when they look at their ring. For me and for them, the diamond ring is an important symbol of their love and romance. I have created the Goddess Collection for the modern bride. Each ring is inspired by a loving, powerful and magical goddess of ancient mythology, hand crafted in my Melbourne workroom with a style and finesse you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find elsewhere. Finally, only the most perfectly cut diamonds such as the Hearts on Fire diamond are used for the Goddess Collection. These diamonds are ethically sourced from the finest diamond rough and expertly cut to perfect mathematics using the most advanced technology available, so they sparkle more than any other diamond you will ever see. A Trewarne Goddess Diamond Ring will truly take your breath away. It is your daily companion, a constant reminder of the love and joy you feel in your romance.

TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY L2 Retail Bridge Shop 2006 Westfield Southland Nepean Highway Cheltenham VIC PH: (03) 9583 9299 Shop G7 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 234 Collins Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 9805 Website: www.trewarne.com.au 248

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Photography // Tandy Rowley

XENNOX DIAMOND WORLD

One might think Xennox Diamond’s story began in 1976 when Wolfgang Schwantes opened the Brisbane jeweller specialising in hand-crafting engagement rings; however, the story really began in 1960 when Wolfgang first fell in love with jewellery. It was in Germany as an apprentice that Wolfgang learnt the art of creating hand-crafted pieces. Over 41 years, the Xennox family has travelled the world in search of the latest trends, drawing inspiration for designs that have seen the business win over ten national design awards, including the prestigious DeBeers Supreme Design Award. Engagement and wedding rings are not only symbols of love but amazing legacy pieces that retell your story for years. As a second-generation family business, Xennox loves that we can begin your story with your engagement ring then continue with you through life’s magic moments. For anniversaries, birthdays and new additions to your family, Xennox Diamonds can create endearing memories. Your engagement ring is special and we understand the importance of making it perfect. Our master jewellers are so dedicated to crafting engagement rings that we won the Jeweller of the Year award at the Wedding and Events of Australia Excellence Awards 2014 and the Passion8 Diamonds Engagement Ring of the Year Award 2015. Recently, we also published the award-winning book Rock Her World – the Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Perfect Engagement Ring to help gentlemen achieve that special magic moment with an engagement ring their partners will love forever. Visit our showroom in Queen Street Mall and make your Xennox experience something you will always remember. From the scotch and champagne bar to the dream-design booth, everything in our store is custom-designed to enhance your shopping experience. Xennox Diamonds – we craft magic memories and we can’t wait to create them with you. XENNOX DIAMOND WORLD Level 2 141 Queen Street Mall Brisbane QLD PH: (07) 3210 6288 FAX: (07) 3210 6299 Website: www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au 250

Photography // Tandy Rowley

// INTELLIGENCE

USE OF GUILD MARKS A core function of the Gold and Silversmith’s Guild of Australia is to administer and facilitate the time-honored practice of gold and silversmith’s marking their work with their personal makers mark, alongside the metal purity marks as set by Australian Standards AS-2140-08. These members’ makers marks are struck on fine silver “touchplates” which remain the property of the Gold and Silversmith’s Guild of Australia, archived as a permanent record for posterity. This enables future generations to identify the maker of artworks and Jewellery, assisting the process of establishing provenance. This marking system is unique in Australia. Only acceptance as a Fellow of the GSGA entitles makers to the use of the iconic kangaroo head which is the Guild Mark. This mark is Trade Mark registered in various forms, and therefore protected and cannot be used by anyone not a current member of the Guild, each punch is numbered and issued to a member on joining. The punch remains the property of the Guild and is therefore legally required to be returned when membership is ceased.

STANDARDS OF USE FOR GUILD MARKS • • • • •

•

The Guild mark can only be used: On precious metals gold, platinum and silver meeting Standards Australia AS-2140-08. Where accompanied by the appropriate metal purity mark consistent with AS-2140-08. Where the design and manufacture has taken place in Australia. Where accompanied by the member’s makers mark. Where the Fellow’s own hand has been a significant part of the creative process. See recommendations below. The use of the date mark is optional but it must always accompany the Guild and maker’s marks.

DATE MARK Cannot be used unless accompanied by the guild mark and makers mark.

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The date mark may be purchased by members, its use commences on January 1st each year. The date mark exhibits the same letter as that used by The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths – Guildhall in Britain, but within the shape of the diamond border. This provides ease of recognition of the date of manufacture, as collectors and others interested have ready access to those images. The use of the date letter is optional but desirable to aid the process of establishing provenance.

RECOMMENDATIONS GUILD MARK

FOR

THE

USE

THE

Regarding items that have been manufactured by means other than hand-fabrication, the work may only be stamped with the guild mark where: • The Fellow’s own hand has been a significant part of the creative process. • The original work or “master pattern” is that of the Fellow. • The Fellow takes personal responsibility for the quality of all work and metal purity of the final piece. • The Guild mark is stamped on the work individually, after production and NOT reproduced “in-situ”.

SOME EXAMPLES ARE: Moulding and Casting a master pattern to reproduce multiples of a design. The master must be an original work and the standard of professional finish is suitable. The Guild mark is stamped post manufacture and not cast “in-situ”. Casting from wax: The wax design is the original work of the member and of quality they are proud to have marked. Computer Aided Design and Manufacture: (CAD CAM): The Fellow takes responsibility for the originality of design and professional quality of the finished work. The Guild Mark must be hand-stamped and not part of a print.

The The Gold Gold

Silversmiths Silversmiths

TM TM

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Your Your Jewellery Jewellery Guarantee Guarantee and comprehensive system of marking precious metal items. and comprehensive system of marking precious metal items. Guild members names and Makers Marks are permanently recorded, they abide by set metal standards of material, Guild members MakersasMarks are permanently recorded, theyyear abide set metal standards of material, their work isnames clearlyand identified genuinely made in Australia and the of by manufacture can be recorded. their work is clearly identified as genuinely made in Australia and the year of manufacture can be recorded.

Makers Mark, Fineness Mark and Guild Mark Makers Mark, Fineness Mark and Guild Mark

Makers Mark Makers Mark

Fineness Mark

the individual or company the individual or company

Fineness Mark Precious metal content, expressed in parts per thousand with the border denoting principle Precious metal elemental content, metalexpressed in accordance in parts with perAustralian thousand with Standard the border AS-2140-2008 denoting principle elemental metal in accordance with Australian Standard AS-2140-2008 Silver Silver

Palladium Palladium

Gold Gold

Platinum Platinum

9 carat

Guild Mark

Guild Mark Fully registered and legally Fully registered protected mark and legally protected mark TM

Individual maker producing distinctively primarily Individual designed, maker producing hand madedesigned, preciousprimarily metal distinctively articles Australia hand madein precious metal

9 carat 14 carat 14 carat

articles in Australia TM TM

18 carat

Sterling

18 carat

Sterling

Fellow ofFellow GSGA of GSGA

Full Member of GSGA Full Member of GSGA

Individual with employees producing articles Individualdistinctive with employees or producing a Fellow engaged witharticles multiple distinctive high quality engaged production ofmultiple precious or a Fellow with in Australia high metal qualityarticles production of precious

22 carat 22 carat fine gold

metal articles in Australia

fine gold

Follows the convention established by the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths UK and incorporates the current script letter Follows the convention established by the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths UK and incorporates the current script letter

1989

1990

1989

1990

2002

2003

2002

2003

1991

2004 2004

1992

2005 2005

1993

2006 2006

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2007 2007

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2008 2008

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2009 2009

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l l

2010 2010

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2000

2013 2013

2001 2001

p p

2014 2014

Other marks you may see on International items of precious metal Other marks you may see on International items of precious metal

International Convention Marks International Convention Marks

United Kingdom Assay Office Marks United Kingdom Assay Office Marks

Silver

Palladium

Gold

Platinum

Silver

Palladium

Gold

Platinum

London

Birmingham

Sheffield

Edinburgh

London

Birmingham

Sheffield

Edinburgh

Guild members guarantee quality, metal purity, workmanship and above all - Australian made! Guild members guarantee quality, purity,inworkmanship and above all - Australian made! Havemetal confidence your purchase. Have confidence in your purchase. For contact details of Guild members in each State: visit www.gsga.org.au, phone 0431 284 060 or write to PO Box 379 Melbourne 3001 For contact details of Guild members in each State: visit www.gsga.org.au, phone 0431 284 060 or write to PO Box 379 Melbourne 3001 GSGA 297x210.indd 1

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Image // courtesy Desma Noble

// INTELLIGENCE

THE MARK THAT PACKS A PUNCH Helen Collier Benjamin Franklin asserted that there are no certainties in life, except death and taxes, but a group of Australian jewellery makers (Fellows of the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia) wish to add a third guarantee to his list - their makers’ mark. Everyone loves a guarantee when making a precious purchase, it gives assurance that we are buying a genuine article, and paying the correct amount for the true value of our item. Hallmarks have been giving that guarantee in England since the 1300s, and in line with that time honoured tradition, members of the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia mark their work out of personal pride as well as for customer confidence. When investing in a piece of hand made Australian jewellery, there’s a peace of mind that comes with the integrity bestowed by a maker’s mark and a guild mark. Each country has its own system of marking precious metals; from none at all, to full legal obligation. In England it’s a legal requirement that every gold or silver item of jewellery made or sold has to be assayed (assessed for its purity) by the assay office

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and then marked accordingly by them – pieces that don’t reach the standard can be destroyed. Without such governance here in Australia, the customer looking to buy a beautiful piece of Australian made and designed jewellery finds themselves at a disadvantage. Unless of course they buy a piece marked with the the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia’s seal of approval. In an otherwise unregulated environment, the Guild’s marks become all the more valuable to the jewellery buyer, as they show a willingness on the part of the jeweller to give every assurance that their piece is sound, of a standard of excellence and meets the Australian Standard for precious metals. In addition to symbolising fine craftsmanship, the Guild marks on a piece of jewellery (see inside back cover), details from left to right who made it, from what precious metal, that it is Australian made and whether by a Fellow or Full Member. It’s a mark of surety, provenance, craftsmanship and history. A jeweller seeking acceptance into the Gold & Silversmiths

This page: clockwise from top left Jewellery // Marcus Synott Jewellery // Victoria Buckley Jewellery // Lucy Godoroja

Guild of Australia, submits a number of pieces of their work for assessment by seven experienced jewellery makers who make up the National Council of the Guild. After detailed assessment of their work and following up four sets of references, if voted in, the jeweller pays their annual subscription to become a member of the Guild. The Guild have their Fellow’s ‘punch’ made up for them, (it is illegal to have the punch made by any other means) and the jeweller sends their maker’s mark to the Guild so it can be recorded by the Keeper of the Punches who strikes their mark on a silver plate. The jeweller is then sent their kangaroo head punch and a date punch (optional). Each metal purity also has its own specific punch so a jeweller buys a set. Then at the start of each year on 1st January, a new date punch is produced which can be purchased by Guild members. From this collection of punches, the relevant ones are struck into a piece of jewellery as it is being made (struck into the shank of a ring or tiny plate on a necklace fastener).

Image // courtesy Desma Noble

Just because a jewellery maker is a Fellow of the Guild doesn’t follow that he or she will mark every piece of jewellery they make. It is not a legally enforced requirement for a jeweller to mark his or her work, or be a fellow of the Guild, so to make your buying process harder, there are some beautiful pieces of jewellery being made in Australia that won’t carry these marks. All pieces made and designed by a Fellow of the Guild will always have a millesimal purity mark (in accordance with Australian Standard 2140-2008), integral to the piece, it won’t be something that can be easily removed. If the piece contains more than one metal alloy, it will be marked in order of content. But unless it’s marked as such, there are no guarantees that you’re buying genuine silver or gold. The integrity of a piece of jewellery is dependent on its make up and the quality of the precious metal alloy. Alarming stories abound of ‘sterling silver’ rings that melt or fail during repairs and turn out to have an outer coating that simply falls off. Aside from not being worth the money you have paid for them, inferior metals can cause

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// INTELLIGENCE

Jewellery // Chris Sherwin

When investing in a piece of hand made Australian jewellery, there’s a peace of mind that comes with the integrity bestowed by a maker’s mark and a guild mark.

Jewellery

// Emily

Snadden

skin discolouration and irritation. If you’ve been sold sterling silver or 18-22 carat gold, you don’t expect to come out in a rash due to a high nickel content. The benefits of a Guild mark and maker’s mark in your jewellery are many and benefit all concerned. The Guild mark and date mark are useful historically to determine when a piece was made which can help with valuations, and indeed with police investigations by identifying jewellery that has been stolen and reuniting it with its rightful owner. Knowing it’s Australian, eradicates the issues that come with cheaper imported goods. Our buying power has increased exponentially in the last few decades and we the consumer dictate what we find acceptable. People shopping with a conscience, who understand the harm that plastic creates, have pressurised shops to withdraw it. When we buy food we check the label, seeking reassurance as to our food’s integrity – and jewellery is no different – when customers start to ask their jeweller if they are a Guild member and whether they mark their work with a kangaroo head, they will start to drive the demand for a mark. It will effectively dictate the future of guild marking in Australian-made jewellery. It’s astonishing that something so small can pack such a punch (at 1.25mm the details of the marks cannot be gleaned without magnification), but in the case of these punches, they do exactly that. As Tim Peel, current President of the Guild said ‘There aren’t many punches you go looking for in life; for me these are the only kind worth having and where everyone benefits!’

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The Gold & Silversmith Guild members detailed below are pleased to participate in the Australian Jewellery Design Awards

+61 3 8719 6348

Suite 209/250 Pitt Street Sydney 2000 P: 02 9267 0122 adinajozsef.com.au

Suite 4 Level 1 30 McAdam Square Croydon Vic Australia

www.desmadesigns.com.au

Shop 3/26 Commerce Drive, Robina, QLD 07 5562 0222 finelinesjewellers.com.au

4 Butcher Road Darling Downs WA 6122 p: (08) 9525 4220 or 0437 231 921 e: info@eroticjewellery.com

eroticjewellery.com

75Â˝ George St The Rocks NSW P: 02 9235 2133

Shop 2 /370 Main Road Wellington Point, QLD 07 3822 7950

jasonree.com.au

www.mnjewellerydesign.com.au

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238 Maroondah Hwy Healesville Vic 3777 Ph +613 59625470 silvermiststudio.com.au

DEBBIE SHEEZEL p. 0419 339 199 e. debbie@debbiesheezel.com.au

debbiesheezel.com.au

RINGS FOR THE WHOLE EMOTIONAL SPECTRUM

Multiple Winner - Australian Jewellery Designer of the Year 75Â½ George St. The Rocks 2000 PH: 02 9235 2133 jasonree.com.au